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Looking into buying a new (good) PC, and I was wondering which out of the two following processor options gives the best performance (for GAMING):

Intel i7 620M, 2.66GHz, 4MB L3 cache
Intel i7 920XM, 2.00GHz, 8MB L3 cache

Does the increase in cache in the 920 more than make up for the reduced clock speed?Better have to see intel websiteI did a quick search for benchmarks on the 2 but I wasn't very successful. One reason may be they are laptop cpu"s

If you don't need a laptop, you will get a MUCH better gaming pc for the money by going with a desktop. LAPTOPS do not make very good gaming MACHINES. Quote from: hejlik on May 20, 2010, 10:30:30 AM

If you don't need a laptop, you will get a MUCH better gaming pc for the money by going with a desktop. Laptops do not make very good gaming machines.

Hi all, I just bought a Asus laptop with a intel core i5-2430m CPU @ 2.4GHZ, windows 7 64 bit. Will it support intel TURBO boost technology?. Both the CPU and the MBoard need to support it...Good question!
How Intel Turbo Boost Works [Technology Explained]
Quote

Normally the computer PROCESSOR in your laptop or desktop has a standard clock speed which partially determines how quickly it performs. While the processor might lower its clock speed at times in order to conserve power, the clock speed which is stated when you buy the computer is the fastest clock speed you’ll receive unless you decide to overclock. ...

I just purchased a new computer which is a dell. I had another dell before this for 4 years and then it got a blue screen out of NOWHERE and stopped working. Im guessin it was a virus. My old computer has a 200 gig hardrive which has alot of files on it I would like to get off it. If I put that HARD drive into my new computer, what would happen? Would I ruin my new comp or is there a way to get some of the files off I need without harming i?Slave Drive Tutorial

Read thru completely before starting...and remember to scan all files before OPENING them...There's a chance that it comes with a SATA interface it which case you only need to hook it up without changing jumpers. More important, if the files on the old drive are infected and you copy them to the new drive, you will infect the new system.Quote

and remember to scan all files before opening them...

There's a chance that it comes with a SATA interface it which case you only need to hook it up without changing jumpers.

Mentioned

The guy in the tutorial should clean his CPU cooler.

My Sony Vaio VGN-NW270F will not turn the WIRELESS radio on. Is there anything that can be DONE other than the On/Off switch, which the COMPUTER RECOGNIZES as in the ON or OFF POSITION, but the radio doesn't turn on. Thank you.The radio button needs to be turned on first. It is by designed for Sony Vaio laptops.

I USED to be able to control panel-scanner- and scan on my Epson CX7400. Recently this disappeared but I was still able to use Epson Scan but this does not have all the options I wanted. I re installed using the DISC but when I go to scan on from the control panel I get that the scanner software is not installed even though I have re installed twice.

Any suggestions pleaseVisit Epson and use there SUPPORT system.

http://www.epson.co.uk/Support

Simple. Is the scanner set to default PRINTER in Control Panel/Printers ? ?

Hi everyone,

I built my own pc about 3 month ago and now I'm am faced with this annoying problem and I hope someone can help me. I'll START off with the components within:

CPU: AMD A8-3850
MOB: BIOSTAR TA75M+ ver. 5.5
RAM: G. Skill F3-10666CL9D-8GBRL 2 x4 GB
PSU: CoolMaster GX 450 Watt
Case: Silverstone Milo ML03B
OS: WINDOWS 7 x64 Ultimate
Monitor: Sony Bravia 42"

Everything worked fine for about a month or two but now I get these random freezes/reboots and every once in a while I get a BSOD. I can't seem to be able to pin point why I'm getting these issues. I updated the BIOS using the bios updater SOFTWARE provided by biostar, I updated the network and chipset drivers from biostar website as well. I even went to the AMD website and ran the driver check tool and updated the drivers that way. I reinstalled the OS over the weekend thinking it might be compatibility issues. I removed one of the memory cards last night thinking it might be a timing issue but no mattter what I do I still get the problems. Sometimes the reboots/freezed appear more often that other times. I noticed that everytime I have utorrent and windows media player open at the same time the reboot appears. I also noticed that when I try to scan for hardware problems the computer freezes. The only theory I have left is that the CPU is not able to handle the video output to an hdtv monitor, so I'm thinking of buying a video card to help out with it, but not very sure if this is going to help.

Can anyone help out and RECOMMEND anything else I can try?

ThanksWhat's the temperature at the time of the crash?

Hi, i am new to FORUM. Ive got a Toshiba laptop Tecra M10-10 H, the battery recently went flat and would not recharge, it was a 6 cell type, so i got a 12 cell battery. I fitted it in and connected the ac POWER, and it wouldnt startup. So i took the battery out and it started up straight AWAY, then i reinserted the battery and the laptop recognized the battery and started charging up. But when it gets to 4% it stops charging, it says plugged in not charging. The old one was ok, ive got 2mg MEMORY so that seems to be ok. So if i want to startup i have to take the battery out, any help would be appreciated. Did you try leaving it on carge overnite with the laptop not being used ? ?Yes ive tried that, the Orange battery light comes on for a few minutes then goes off again.Are you SURE that the battery you bought will work properly with your laptop? How do you know a 12-cell will work?

Alan <><Not really sure, but it did say when i bought it that it was compatible with my laptop, if anyone wants to do a check for me, the batterys number is Pa 3357u-3brl and my laptop is Toshiba M10-10H Tecra series, many thanks.Your laptop is not LISTED on the compatability list...

hello everyone,
I have a problem with my hp 4185 all-in-one printer, i think the problem is the data strip and the parts on the rotation gear [i dont KNOW what the name of the parts is].... but it is made of transparent plastic like the data strip but it is round and attached to a round gear placed in the inner left side of the printer.... the problem is, the PRINTED data on it is erase because of its oldness, THUS any one know how to repair it? when i turn on my printer it produce a scrambling noise inside,suddenly it will stop and then the resume lights will blink..... pls HELP!!!! anyone know how to repair it?Did you already look over the HP web site?
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Other-Printing-Questions/HP-4185-deskjet-all-in-one-quot-Carriage-Stalled-quot/m-p/30527
Unless it was an expensive office printer, there is little to gain by trying to fix it. About all a user can do is replace the cartridges and repair paper jams.

Here is a very personal opinion, BASED on observations and personal experience.: Buy a new printer. Later sell the old one for parts.

Dear Experts,
I have a LG L192WS monitor with a Radeon HD 6770. I have WINDOWS 7 and 4 GB RAM. There is a disturbance on my monitor, several white LINES running horizontally or diagonally across the screen, moving up and down. Please tell me how I can solve this problem as it is very disturbing and disables me to play HD games or watch MOVIES or videos.Try the monitor on another PC...
If it does the same thing it's the monitor.
If it's fine on the other PC then power off and unplug the PC.
Remove and re-seat your vid card.
Take the opportunity to do some housekeeping...use a can of compressed air to clean all fans and heatsinks.
NOTE: It's a good idea to use a Q-Tip to hold fan blades in PLACE while blasting them as spinning them up too much can cause damage.
Re-assemble EVERYTHING and power-up...

This is not fun. I lost data. Quote from: mac_sak on January 24, 2012, 06:42:37 AM

This is not fun. I lost data.

This is not fun. I lost data.

Hi All

Can someone please help me with the FOLLOWING computer problem?

I took my SAMSUNG RV510 laptop apart and wiped my hard drive.

When I put in my 'Samsung SYSTEM RECOVERY Media' CD that came with the computer to try and reinstall Windows 7 Home basic operating system,when it comes to the part to load the
drives, it says to me it can't FIND the drives. What is the problem?

Do I have to reinstall the drives for window 7 and if so how do you do that?

Do you have to format the computer before you reinstall the drives and reinstall the operating system and how do you format the hard drives of a Samsung RV510?

Please help

Thank You!

Regards John

How come you have to take apart the laptop? Any recovery partition for that particular model?

I have a 5-year-old HP pavilion, and it's worked quite well over the years. Today, however, it gave me a message that the system fan has failed, and that I should get it serviced to prevent damage to the system. I'm actually little nervous about using it now since I want to avoid damaging the system.

I installed the freeware Everest to check the temperature, and this is what is says:


- CPU40 °C (104 °F)
- SAMSUNG SP2504C43 °C (109 °F)


I also opened it up and used compressed gas to BLOW out dust. Once I started it back up the fans appeared to be working just fine. I also didn't get the warning message this time.

I restarted again to make sure the warning wouldn't come up again, but it did come up again.

So here are my questions:

- Anything I can do?
- Is the temperature OK?
- Is it dangerous to the system if I continue using my computer?
- If I need to get it serviced or get the fan replaced, would it be very expensive?

The system fan is usually the case fan. Not all systems have a case fan, mine does not and it seems to work OK.

Quote from: Alternative Solution on January 22, 2012, 03:48:23 AM

- Anything I can do?

- Is the temperature OK?

- Is it dangerous to the system if I continue using my computer?

- If I need to get it serviced or get the fan replaced, would it be very expensive?

Here's the MOTHERBOARD's specs

www.msi.com/product/mb/760GM-E51.html#/?div=Detail

• HyperTransport 3.0 supporting SPEED up to 2.6GHz

Does this mean that the max processor speed will be 2.6GHz?!

Thanks Quote from: sponnerjhon on January 22, 2012, 11:26:47 AM

Does this mean that the max processor speed will be 2.6GHz?!

I have a monitor by Apple, which is older (crt) and i revieved this with the VGA cord cut close to the actual monitor body. What would be the best way going about replacing the cable? should i try to splice it and cut open another cable? any input appreciated. Thanks. Whatever you do i would be extremely careful...CRT monitors STORE quite a jolt of ELECTRICITY...even over time...enough to stop a Human heart.Understood on that part. However, still looking into how difficult it would be to FIX it from the outside of the case, without OPENING it up. There is only a inch or so of the cable still out the back. Solder on a new connector and then grab a VGA extension cord to get its original length back?

Sounds like a lot of work for something people hand out for free these days, though.

Actually i think its one of those where the cord goes right into the body...and with an inch of cable left i'd love to see that soldering job...

Hey guys!
Something can be done about this ?
Please, take a look at this



And this is a kind of a hard drive

How did that happen ? ?

Even if you found an identical HDD casing with a controller board and swapped it in there you have approx a 50/50 chance of it working...
Others may have a different opinion though.Find an interface from an indentical hard drive and replace it. Don't know what that'll do to the data on the hard drive so I suggest you get that off first. If the connectors still "connect" then you'll just have to use some TAPE to keep the cables attached until you're done copying off all the data.

Of course, if you connect the power supply and not all the connectors connect, you might just destroy the interface and the motor entirely.

So if the data is really important to you, you'll want to contact a data recovery company about now.May be kinda hard to find on a HDD that new...Quote from: patio on January 23, 2012, 10:24:42 AM

How did that happen ? ?

Of course, if you connect the power supply and not all the connectors connect, you might just destroy the interface and the motor entirely.

So that means the hard drive is no longer usable once my computer can't detect it ?
BTW: Fortunately I don't worry about data.

It was just the key, though. Not the entire connector.

What do you mean by the key ?

This thread is an object to demonstrate the sensibleness go ogling bask to the old cheep reliable PATA drives.

Hi Can anyone advise please?
I have an Abit Micro ATX Motherboard NF-M2S with AMD 64 3200+ cpu Nvidia 8500GT 500mb PCIe video card.500W PSU I am currently operating Win 7 Ultimate 32bit.I have installed only 1x Kingston DDR2 PC 5300 1GB but there are two RAM slots on this Motherboard.I have just purchased another 2GB stick of DDR2 PC5300 RAM. I removed the 1GB RAM from NO..1 slot and fitted the 2GB the PC booted up normally to Windows.When I fitted the 1GB stick into NO..2 Slot the PC wont boot and just gives a long bleep bleep.I have removed the BATTERY unplugged the psu from the Motherboard and cleared the CMOS but now the Motherboard will not POST even with just the ORIGINAL 1GB of RAM in Slot 1 and nothing in Slot 2?
I previously checked the BIOS and the DRAM setting is at AUTO..I am begining to wonder if there is something wrong with RAM slot 2.I have cleaned it with Isopropyl alcohol and the slot is free from any debris.Is this just a PICKY Motherboard? I CANT contact ABIT now as they went out of business in 2009! so any help would be MUCH appreciated Michael.So the 1GB RAM stick simply doesn't work? Probably suffered from ESD, then. Quote from: Raptor on January 22, 2012, 03:53:25 PM

So the 1GB RAM stick simply doesn't work? Probably suffered from ESD, then.

Got a picture of your project?Go all out...Where would i get these low COST? i have been RUNNING on a very limited budget, so THEREFORE, i have only been using what has been available to me to use. Where would i get the fan? i am on a very limited budget, reason why i am using only what i have available so far. You just duplicated your EARLIER post.
I sorry, my internet glitched out on that......

Pics are coming soon

Hey guys,

Im having some TROUBLE FINDING the part I need.


I currently am running an

Athlon 2 X4 OC 3.0 GHZ
4GB DDR3
Radeon 5770


Im looking to upgrade my CPU to a Phenom 2 X6
and grab another 5770 and do some Xfire.

The only problem is, that I want to put it all into a Micro ATX case.
All the possible AM3 boards that can do this have both PCI-Es running at 8x Ive herd that its ok to have one PCIE running at 16 then the other at 8x but not both 8x. Anyone have any info on this that could help me out or even know where I can buy a board that will do the trick?mATX boards with 2 pci-e slots are hard to come by, just for the fact that they are small in size and lack a little less power than regular atx boards. i highly doubt there are mATX boards out there that will run both cards at 16x.

i looked into it a little and only found 1 board at newegg. it's this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813136068Quote from: normz on May 15, 2010, 11:23:42 AM

All the possible AM3 boards that can do this have both PCI-Es running at 8x Ive herd that its ok to have one PCIE running at 16 then the other at 8x but not both 8x. Anyone have any info on this that could help me out or even know where I can buy a board that will do the trick?

Ive herd that its ok to have one PCIE running at 16 then the other at 8x but not both 8x. Anyone have any info on this that could help me out or even know where I can buy a board that will do the trick?

The heat is gonna be tremendous in that mini ATX case....

It's fine to run the slots at whatever speed you want. X8/X8 will not meaningfully hold back any card's performance, with the possible exception of a 5970.

This is on my HP Compaq 6715b (in specs). I was making some changes in the BIOS set up and I guess I somehow mistakingly entered a password for 'power on'. Now I can't start the MACHINE because I can't get past the Power On Password screen.
I tried removing the battery on the motherboard but I still get the power on password screen.
I've tried every password I generally use but nothing works. What can I do to correct this?
Thanks,
MikeHave you been here? http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Other-Desktop-PC-Questions/Power-on-password/td-p/44320/page/4Thanks Jason!
That worked fine. I didn't know about the CMOS jumper.
Your NOTEBOOK has a CMOS jumper?

BIOS ROM Image

I found this:
Method for a HP BIOS RECOVERY:

Prerequisite:
The BIOS recovery procedure requires a USB diskette drive and a formatted diskette.
USB pen ----> doesn't work

Download you BIOS from HP, please note the MODEL 68xxx

Copy the bin file of the BIOS on the diskette. eg:68YHV.BIN and not ROM.BIN

Press the 4 arrow keys (up, down, right, left) on the KEYBOARD and power ON.

Wait ~2, 3 seconds an release the keys.

Wait the end of the process ( 2 minutes)

It's pretty short, Um I never go a good look at it as my computer will just restart it's self. I write it down next time it comes up. It's some memory reference error 0x00... Go to Control Panel/System/Advanced and uncheck "auto-restart on errors"...the error will now stay up without a re-boot...
We need the full message...including the gibberish.Well yeah I already had switched it on. I just haven't had another blue screen. Is there a WAY to pull up the error from the registry or something without another blue screen?DLoad and run BlueScreeView....save the log as a text file and post the results here...I found the error in the error report part of windows, I fixed my issue. The CPU RUNS fine, my CRASHES were a combination of hard drive issues and video driver failures. I did a reinstall and complete removal of all the video drivers and fixed that. I corrected the hard drive issues by opening about 60 Gbs of space, defrag, and removed a few corrupted files. Seems to be running fine now guys THANKS for the help ^^. Had nothing to do with the possessor thank goodness.

I used the thermal paste you recommended and the guy at the store told me it's the best you can buy haha. Thanks again!

ok im preety good with computers, but keyboards not so much. Whenever I hit the shift, ctrl or alt key it makes a darn beep. They arent STUCK, as in by dirt or hair or anything as no other key does this.

i could stand a little beeping, the issue is that it makes the key not work all the TIME, and for some reason i cant find the keyboard settings to check sticky key options and the sort.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.StickyKeys allows the user to press a modifier key, such as Shift, Ctrl, Alt, or the Windows key, and have it remain active until another key is pressed.
Turn on Sticky Keys by pressing ALT+R.that DOESNT work..all HITTING alt does is make that same people, left or right ALT/ctrl or shift key.

i need a way to get to keyboard settings and see if theres a way to fix this, if anyone knows what to fix id be really greateful, thanks.Go to Control Panel - KeyboardHave you tried to unplug and plug BACK in? If this doesn't work, shutdown computer, unplug keyboard the plug in then turn on computer. If still does not work, you may need a new keyboard.Quote from: computerhelpmaryland on May 20, 2010, 07:24:57 AM

Have you tried to unplug and plug back in? If this doesn't work, shutdown computer, unplug keyboard the plug in then turn on computer. If still does not work, you may need a new keyboard.

HP Pavilion s3541uk Vista Home Premium 32 bit
Trying to upgrade memory from 3gb to 4gb to run Windows 7.
I have confirmed I have the correct memory from Crucial but when they are fitted the computer doesn't BOOT.
Memory sticks fitted at present are:-
Samsung 1gb 1Rx8 Pc26400u-666-12-22
MT 2GB 2Rx8 Pc26400u-666-12-EO ddrcls
If I replace the 2 gb stick with either new Crucial stick, leaving the Samsung 1gb in place, everything works fine.
If I LEAVE the 2gb Crucial stick in place and replace the Samsung 1gb with the original MT 2gb stick, the computer wont boot. It seems the Motherboard doesn't like 2 gb sticks in that slot.
According to HP there has been no Bios upgrade other than one to address a different problem.
The system specs are:-
Bios Phoenix Tech. Version 5.14 Rom 1.0mb
System Board Chipset nVidia MCP73 Base Board Foxconn Irvine
Somebody else suggested I reset the CMOS but I'm not sure what that will do.
I've searched other posts but nothing seems to match my problem exactly.
Please HELP!What type of memory? Let me get this straight you just upgraded your operating system? and do you get power to the machine and a boot failure?
Do you have any old memory sticks still in your machine? Or did you just put them in the wrong ports. specific ports are made to work TOGETHER but I do not see how that could effect your boot.

it started when i picked up SOMETHING in the motherboard, a jumper..and i forgot where should it be PLACED to back to NORMAL... Find the model number on your motherboard and download the manual from the manufacturer's website. You should be able to find a schematic of all the jumper positions in the manual.thankz..bro.. The motherboard is sometimes alternatively known as the main BOARD, system board, or, on Apple computers, the logic board.
It is ALSO sometimes casually shortened to mobo.

Hi everyone
For starters here is my PC Vostro 400 from Dell
Intel Core 2 Qhad Q6600(2.4GHz, 8mb,L2cache, 1066Fsb)
WindowsXP
2Gb DualChannel DDR2SDRAM 800 Mhz, 2 DIMMs
320 Gb serial ATA Hard Drive 7200 RPM

The 256 MB NVIDIA GeForce 8600 GT was causing issues (blue screen and fuzzy) and as per suggestions, I replaced it with XFX Radeon HD 6670.

Opened PC in safe mode & removed VGA drivers from device manager;and proceeded to install with CD. Before even staring, PC wanted to try to add new hardware but does not recognize which model it is. Rebooted again in safe mode and tried with CD but tells me to check www.xfxforce.com for drivers. Did this and downloaded drivers for WinXP system; when catalyst tries to install drivers message reads "failed to load detection driver" and now I am stuck.

Note that the fuzzy screen has been CLEARED up and I did double check to VERIFY that card is attached to motherboard. Had one suggestion to remove 6670 card and reattach Nvidia card and then remove all drivers before trying again with 6670; sadly, I have thrown out the NVIdia card.

Also, when I run a search for any files with 'nvidia', I find quite a few; should I delete this or do they have nothing to do with the operations.

When I boot PC in normal mode , this blue screen pops up:
STOP: 0x000000FC (0xB7F47C40, 0x2A7B5963, 0xB747B78, 0x00000001)

Unsure what to try next and in what sequence.

Didn't you recieve a Driver CD with the 6670 ? ?
If not i would try the XFX site for the proper drivers...I'd grab the drivers from ATI's website.0xFC - Is when the computer is instructed to execute non-executable memory space.

Did the machine boot OK in normal mode to BEGIN with when the card was first installed? If so I would reccommend doing a system restore to try to go back far ENOUGH to get the machine booting in normal mode again, which should ALLOW you to install the drivers correctly.No, every time I have tried booting in Normal mode, the blue screen comes out.

When I try installing with CD, it tells me to go to website.
Website allows me to download drivers for WinXP system; then, when catalyst tries to install drivers message reads "failed to load detection driver" and I cannot get anywhere.

Dear ALL,

The second generation of computers used TRANSISTORS and introduced Batch processing between 1955 and 1965. Could you tell me what was a 'job' in this environment? what main programming languages were in use? Typical OS's were FMS and IBSYS. What do these acronymas stand for?

Cheers,
We don't do homework ASSIGNMENTS. Try Google.Sausage and Legislation...COBOL was read from those punched cards l you should not spindle.
The common mainframe was the IBM 360. The 'batch' was called Job Control Language. At that time pizza was just starting to become popular.

That, in a NUTSHELL, is all you want to know about computers in the late 50s early 60s.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IBM_7090/94_IBSYS

For starters...there's a whole Internet out there, just WAITING for you...Transistors PROVIDE most of the activities a circuit needs to operate. In their most basic representation, transistors are amplifiers. That is, they take and amplify a signal from the level produced by a microphone and amplify it enough to blast it out through a speaker. Transistors are also used on decision making circuits, like electronic gates and Central Processing Units (CPUs). Solid state, electronic systems like desktop computers, cell phones, and GPS devices would not be possible without transistors.

HP 3050 All in One, Model Q6504A w/ Windows XP

Bought/installed a year or so ago. Printer/fax always work great. Tried to use SCAN function for first time and couldn't get it to work. Thought I would uninstall/install HP3050 software using CD. Can't do. Keep getting a dialog box which says "HP Scanning Software file hpxp3390.dll is needed - Type path where file is located". Then tried to download installation software from HP and got same problem - can't install - need file hpxp3390.dll.

What happened to this file? I didn't have this problem on the original install. I assume the lack of this file (or computer's inability to get at this file) is the reason I couldn't get the Scan function to work?

I did coincidentally run RegCure PC OPTIMIZER just one day before I tried to use the Scan function. Did RegCure delete the hpxp3390.dll file?

Thanks. I'll answer my own question. HP All in One software can't download on XP Service pack 3. No problems with the original install because it predated Pack 3; however, can't scan with Pack 3 which I didn't notice because I never used the scanner until yesterday. You can download HP drivers to allow use of scanner and printer from the computer which is ok with me but would be a real PITA if your printer is REMOTELY located.where do I go to download drivers to use scanner? I have tried everything. Thanks for any help you can give me.Quote from: ksgurl on January 12, 2009, 07:01:57 AM

where do I go to download drivers to use scanner? I have tried everything. Thanks for any help you can give me.

my PC config-
500 mb ati 5670
3 gb ram
2 hard disk -1 TB and 250 gb
asus p5kpl-amps motherboard
intel 2.8 ghz


after i purchased a NEW smps my has slowed down i can't run the games properlyWhat was the W on the old one.actually sorry i don't know i purchased a new cheap oneNot GOING to get much out of us unless you FIND out what you replaced and what you replaced it with.

when i click my flash drive to open a dialog box appeared and said FORMATTED yes or no?what should i do?If you cant accsess the data on that drive and continues to ask to format....

Corrupted Flash drive Data Recovery
What's the BEST way to get my data off of a corrupted flash drive?

If you are USING a flash drive, try and connect it to another computer just to be sure that the USB ports on your computer are not faulty. If you are using removable flash media, try connecting it to your computer with a card reader just to be sure that the cord or device you are using is also not faulty.

Undelete is good for basic recovery on many kinds of drives, internal or external and can handle recovery through corrupted or damaged media. Undelete can recover from any kind of external drive.

If this dont work your flash drive is corrupted and need to get a new one I get that EVERY now and then with my flash drive. I usually just ignore it (click No) and open it in My Computer. No clue why it does it. If you're still not ABLE to get to your data, your flash drive may be bad.If you have access to your flash drive I suppose you can first scan it for viruses, take corrective action if any found and copy all your data to your hard disk and then format the flash drive.thankz to all you bro...

what are BEST hardwares will give best performance for that which os will support accurately.


reply is most.Sorry - don't understand the question.Cannot be ANSWERED logically...even with DETAILS provided as it is and will remain a nebulous question.

It's like asking "what options for time travel would WORK best using what equipment not invented yet" ? ?Quote from: frankken2 on May 19, 2010, 03:00:05 AM

what are best hardwares will give best performance for that which os will support accurately.
reply is most.

I can only GET it to WORK in SAFE MODE. What should I do?Have a LOOK here.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/306084
truenorth

Quote from: Sammael on APRIL 28, 2010, 09:56:32 AM

This problem only occurs in Windows. I have Ubuntu on this computer too and in it there is no problem.

After I turn my computer at night it will START again at around 2am How do I overcome this? OjasAre you sure your computer is being shut down? Your not just using Hibernation or Sleep Mode?
If that is the case, you MIGHT have maintance running at that time, waking it up or something under the Task Scheduler.

In BIOS did you see any listings under Boot options dealing with Wake-On settings such as WOL (Wake on Lan) etc?

Do you have a faulty power button?

Do you have kids SNEAKING around at 2am?

You might have the '2am Worm' virus? ekkk!

or the other way to prevent computer to startup is to unplug the computer when finished or plug the computer to a power strip/surge protector and hit the switch when finished.Quote from: rthompson80819 on May 19, 2010, 02:10:52 PM

I know that's spam, but that's GOT to be one of the funniest posts I've seen.

No way I'd click on that link.

I think that Azzaboi was on the right track with hibernation or sleep mode being the problem. Home PCs just don't start up on their own.

Sometimes they do. It's usually a setting in bios (Wake on Lan)

I'm having trouble with an ASUS EAX1300PRO video card. When I install the video card, it isn't recognized by the system.
I have the BIOS set to default to PCIE graphics instead of the internal graphics, but BIOS still uses the internal graphics to post and windows doesn't even show the pcie video card in system management. I've tried swapping out the power supply for one with slightly higher power, but it didn't make a difference. There was previously a pcie video card installed in the system which worked fine.
I'm beginning to think the video card itself is the problem, but wanted to see if anyone else has any thoughts on it. It should ALSO be noted that the video card is new out of the box, it has been sitting on a shelf for 3-4 years.


Here's my specs:
Windows 7
Intel D945GNT motherboard
2x1 gb ram
2 sata hdd
2 dvd drives
400watt power supply

Video Card:
ASUS EAX1300PRO/TD/256M/A
Quote from: michaewlewis on May 16, 2010, 05:55:26 PM

...When I install the video card, it isn't recognized by the system.
I have the BIOS set to default to PCIE graphics instead of the internal graphics, but BIOS still uses the internal graphics to post and windows doesn't even show the pcie video card in system management. I've tried swapping out the power supply for one with slightly higher power, but it didn't make a difference. There was previously a pcie video card installed in the system which worked fine.
I'm beginning to think the video card itself is the problem...

...With ATI FireMV cards and Intel boards (that's all I've personally tried), they leave onboard graphics enabled and even usable with the graphics card. It's more likely the pcie graphics device that disables the onboard chip...

Sounds to me like the card is dead, I've seen this before.

I cant seem to figure out how i have to do the wires for the power LED. i ALREADY got it to how it flickers if the HDD is doing something... But the downside is that it flickers from the light being off to the light being off again i hope you know what i mean.. and what bothers me that there are supposed to be 2 cables for the power LED and 2 for the HDD LED but besides the 2 power button wires I Only have 3 wires left... So I'm a little puzzled. i know that the green and blue wire's are for the power button but do you guy's know what the ground cable is from those two?

I'm posting links of pictures of how the wires are and the guide from the MoBo user maual.

Thanks

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/1729/imag0108k.jpg

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/6986/imag0109o.jpg

http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/4354/imag0110ix.jpgI don't know why that's wired the way it is. The LED's have no Commons (Gnd), the motherboard provides the resistors. The power button is a CONTACT closure (short circuit across the PINS).
You need:
2 for PLED
2 for +HD LED
2 for PWRBTN
2 for RESET (which many cases don't provide, but the motherboard does)
QUOTE from: Computer_Commando on May 05, 2010, 04:38:47 PM

I don't know why that's wired the way it is. The LED's have no Commons (Gnd), the motherboard provides the resistors. The power button is a contact closure (short circuit across the pins).
You need:
2 for PLED
2 for +HD LED
2 for PWRBTN
2 for RESET (which many cases don't provide, but the motherboard does)

yeah i know that... so theres no way i can make it possible so the light stays on and only flickers if the HDD does any activity?

Hey guys, I helped at the semi-annual recycling drive conducted by a local computer USERS' group to which I belong and I came into possession of a working Dell 24" LCD monitor. The model # is 2405FPW.

Just a short time ago, I connected it to the VGA port on my computer's AGP NVIDIA GeForce FX 5500 (256MB) video card in my Win XP system. The native/maximum resolution for this monitor is 1920 x 1200, which is a good bit higher than any monitor I've ever used with this video card. The highest resolution I've used prior to this is 1280 x 1024.

So far, the monitor seems to be working well; I have not noticed any defects. The screen seemed too bright at first. I found Brightness to be set at 50%; I lowered that to 30 and that seems better. The manufactured date on back is Jan. 2006. It has PIP (Picture in Picture) capability, which is something I have not had before in a monitor.

I'm just wondering how well the video card will handle this monitor. I do no gaming with this machine. It's mainly used for email, MS Office apps, web browsing, and a little photo VIEWING. I have a old computer with that graphics card. And I recently got a brand new monitor of 1920x1200 resolution. My old computer is a 2002 Dell running windows XP Home Edition. The nVidia FX550 I overclocked about 10% (i'm a gamer)

I noticed viewing some websites there's a bit of lag- the video is a bit choppy when scrolling down a web page containing lots of images or flash objects (including videos).
During basic image editing in mspaint, doing things like adding text to a larger-than-screen size image the scrolling is choppy. editing images by adding or moving large piece of image the video is choppy, and sometimes things come to a stop. I don't know if its the RAM, CPU, or video card causing that.
These issues happen on a smaller screen size, 1280x1024, but its much more TOLERABLE.

generally to get the most out of the monitor's performance I recommend a graphics card using a DVI interface, VGA's limit is around 1280x1024. the DVI allows more bandwidth and will improve performance somewhat. That's the standard native resolution for a 16x9, 22" monitor. I've got a 16x9, 19" @ 1440x900 with DVI & VGA inputs. You'll have no issues, but it does take some getting used to the wide screen format. My 2nd computer still used a 17" 4x3 format.Quote from: 10twenty on May 07, 2010, 07:21:59 PM

generally to get the most out of the monitor's performance I recommend a graphics card using a DVI interface, VGA's limit is around 1280x1024. the DVI allows more bandwidth and will improve performance somewhat.

I noticed viewing some websites there's a bit of lag- the video is a bit choppy when scrolling down a web page containing lots of images or flash objects (including videos).

That's the standard native resolution for a 16x9, 22" monitor. I've got a 16x9, 19" @ 1440x900 with DVI & VGA inputs. You'll have no issues, but it does take some getting used to the wide screen format. My 2nd computer still used a 17" 4x3 format.

I recently acquired a second monitor for my PC and I'm trying to set it up to work in unison with the Monitor I already have.

Basically, when obtaining the second Monitor, I was also supplied with a DVI cable, which the actual monitor does not support, whereas my graphics card does. From there, I purchased a DVI to VGA Adapter in a hope I would be able to GET it all to work. It however, does not.

I've tried swapping the monitors over, to no success. I've also made sure than the native resolution and REFRESH rate has been set for the monitors before switching them on, via CCC.

My current set up looks like this:

Monitor > VGA Cable > AGP 2600HD Pro VGA Port [Working]
Monitor > VGA to DVI Adapter > DVI Cable > AGP 2600HD Pro DVI port [Not Working]

Just to note, the PC does actually detect the second monitor, I however, am unable to get it to display anything in either Cloning or Extended Desktop modes. I have also already tried updating my drivers.I had a similar issue with my new 42" screen when I first got it. The screen had VGA and HDMI inputs and my video card has only two DVI ports. I ordered a DVI-HDMI cable, but in the mean time I had to work with what I had, which was a VGA cable to the TV plugged into a VGA-DVI adaptor at the computer's end.

What I ran into was the exact same problem you're having. I had a lot of trouble getting it sorted out. In the end, it had something to do with the video card correctly IDENTIFYING the screen through the DVI-VGA adaptor. I did manage to get it working eventually, but only at very low resolutions (nothing over 1024x768) and at 50Hz refresh. The QUALITY was very poor. If I increased the resolution or the refresh rate, the screen would just go black. When the DVI-HDMI cable finally came, everything worked fine, the computer was able to correctly identify the monitor, and I was able to adjust it to just about any resolution and refresh rate with great quality.

Does your new monitor support any other connections other than VGA? Do you know the model number of this new monitor? (Can usually be FOUND somewhere around the front or on the label on the back of the monitor.)Quote from: Conjecture on May 06, 2010, 01:19:18 PM

My current set up looks like this:

My current set up looks like this:

Monitor > VGA Cable > AGP 2600HD Pro VGA Port [Working]
Monitor > VGA to DVI Adapter > DVI Cable > AGP 2600HD Pro DVI port [Not Working]

here goes...

I have an ASROCK board with AMD 2800+, 1.0GB ram and 2 HD 120GB master and 80 GB slave, cracked XP pro sp3 (i think).

I'm trying to fix a friends PC and ended up screwing up mine...

i had decided to plug his 160 GB slave instead of mine in order to format it. I plugged it in the right place the jumper was on good, but it didn't WORK. so i decided to replug my own slave, now i get the NTLDR is missing message. i tried booting from CD to repair win xp, didn't work.

what i noticed is that when i enter BIOS the IDE 0 info is WD1600, when it should be WD1200JB. I cant change it, i tried to LOAD default in bios, i tried with only the master plugged, i took out the battery from the board. Bios still identifies IDE0 as WD1600.

I've tried so many things i don't even remember them all and their results. one thing i know is that none of the things i did worked.

can someone point me in the right direction??Remove the battery longer than 10 minutes...
Double check the drive(s) jumpers and cable positions.....
Replace the IDE cable with a brand new one...Yes thats really the right way...
DO it & confirmQuote from: funnyman_123 on May 13, 2010, 09:52:13 PM

Yes thats really the right way...
DO it & confirm

1. ... i removed the battery overnight, put it back in and for a strange reason i didn't loose the time and date.... but while replacing the battery i noticed the clrCMOS solder points, tried that instead and it worked...
2. but why did plugging a HD screw everything up?? i must have done that 100 times and it always worked, why wasn't i able to do it with that one??...

I am getting a new router and modem. I want to know if these will WORK together and are good quality. Also, will they work well with my X-box?

http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Linksys-CM100-Cable-Ethernet-Connections/dp/B000WIK61I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1272216910&sr=8-1 Modem

http://www.amazon.com/Cisco-Linksys-E3000-High-Performance-Wireless-N-Router/dp/B003B48UQ8/ref=amb_link_336909822_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=hero-quick-promo&pf_rd_r=1J3NCBQAHE6H0S91MN8Z&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1259619962&pf_rd_i=B001AZ01EO Routerno problem ,GREAT CHOICES, have fun on XBOX

I SMASHED up my screen on my Lenovo N200 0769-AUU


But I need to replace it... I tried looking it up on the site but without any prevail. I only need to order it, I am able to install it once it GETS here (in Canada).

Can anyone help? (and please leave price estimates for this...hopefully not over 300). I am open to anything: private companies, retail etc...
Thanks!
-Josh

PS: Here is the parts website but I cannot find the 0769-AUU model.
http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/document.do?lndocid=MIGR-68083First off tell us if its a laptop or desktop, if it is a desktop, GO to argos cheapest one is £100 a laptop screen, im not sure, CONTACT lenovo

Hi
My aspire 1360 will not start the power light is on, the DVD drive starts, can't hear the fans running just a black screen will not even enter bios or post. Any ideas please
Regards
mrrigga

Before this problem occured, did you notice any blurring on the screen? Did the screen just go black while you were using it, perhaps?

An old laptop of mine had this problem too. STILL haven't figured out the exact cause, aside from the large possibility it's motherboard related.Not belittling at all, but have you tried holding the FN Key and PRESSING the monitor switch function key. Its located along the top row of F keys, usually F5-F8. I've seen that MESS my wife up several times. Hi Carnifix
I don't think its screen related I think it is a motherboard problem and motherboards are my weakest point with computers. Thanks for taking the time to replyHi iMadejoolaff
Thanks for your reply Gave it a TRY as you suggested, AFRAID its still the same always worth a go I think a replacement motherboard is needed Again Thanks

I've brought a HP NC4200 on eBay. Other than a few COSMETIC issues it works fine except:

When the LAPTOP is off, the charging LED is solid and the battery charges fine.

When the laptop is on and the charge is around 0-10% or around 50% the XP battery icon is constantly jumping from AC Charging, Just AC and battery. Other times it works like it should do, solid LED and the AC charging icon.

Same thing happens in Xubuntu too.

The laptop runs fine without a battery so it can't be a connection issue with the charger lead/plug.

I thought it may have been a BIOS issue, so I updated the BIOS to the latest version, but the problem still persists.

Any ideas? The electronics in the smart battery aren't smart enough. This is a very common occurance among laptops and has been an issue for at least 10 years. They can never seem to fix it or don't care to.Could it be fixed by replacing the battery?If the battery holds a charge and functions, why WOULD you want to replace it? I had 2 identical laptops and 1 would do the same as yours and the other was normal. Swapped batteries, same thing. It's REALLY a communication issue between the laptop and the battery. Is the problem in the laptop or the battery? It's hard to say, unless you try different batteries. But laptop batteries are very expensive.That's if I can even get a battery anyway, all I can FIND are unofficial Chinese batteries, dunno what they're like.

Thanks for your help, much more helpful than HP's solution of "Reinstall Windows".
I guess I'll have to disable the battery notifications.I wouldn't buy one.

Self-built machine. Worked fine for over a year. Added another ram module (6G-8G) and the problems began. Blue Screen Memory Dump at random times. Sometimes I'm in a Firefox, sometimes I'm playing a game, sometimes I'm on AIM...nothing is consistent as FAR as what the Operating SYSTEM is doing.
DRAM Modules have been RMA'd, problem persists. Many MemTests have been done. DIMM slots check out fine (moved modules about and observed behavior). BIOS has been reflashed and left on Safest Settings.

System is:
MoBo: Gigabyte (EP45T-UD3LR v1.0 BIOS: F5a[Award])
GPU: Galaxy (Nvidia GeForce 9600GT: 256Bit, 512MB DDR3, PCI-E 2.0x16)
Mem: A-Data (AD31333002GMU 2Gigs(x3) 667Mhz
Proc: Intel Core2 Duo (E8400 [Wolfdale] 775LGA 3Ghz)
OS: Windows 7 Pro

WhoCrashed Log (Some Reports may be irrelevant):
On Fri 5/7/2010 14:09:55 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe
Bugcheck code: 0x128 (0xFFFFF80002FCD504, 0x2, 0xFFFFFA8006DB18E0, 0xFFFFFA8006DB18E0)
Error: Unknown
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\050710-36239-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Thu 5/6/2010 09:35:29 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: hardware
Bugcheck code: 0x3B (0xC0000005, 0xFFFFF88003AB84CC, 0xFFFFF88008C55E60, 0x0)
Error: SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\050610-49764-01.dmp



On Thu 4/1/2010 05:06:47 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: nvlddmkm.sys
Bugcheck code: 0xA (0xFFFFF80802F0CD00, 0x2, 0x0, 0xFFFFF80002CC86F5)
Error: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\040110-33025-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\nvlddmkm.sys
product: NVIDIA Windows Kernel Mode Driver, Version 196.21
company: NVIDIA Corporation
description: NVIDIA Windows Kernel Mode Driver, Version 196.21



On Wed 3/31/2010 20:48:36 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe
Bugcheck code: 0x50 (0xFFFFF6807F3BB7C0, 0x0, 0xFFFFF80002CA2AE2, 0x5)
Error: PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\033110-48641-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Mon 2/15/2010 19:06:14 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe
Bugcheck code: 0xFC (0xFFFFF88008A3F780, 0x800000019EBB2963, 0xFFFFF880065C8440, 0x2)
Error: ATTEMPTED_EXECUTE_OF_NOEXECUTE_MEMORY
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\021510-49421-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Thu 2/11/2010 14:14:17 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: dxgmms1.sys
Bugcheck code: 0x19 (0x22, 0xFF00000000000000, 0x0, 0x0)
Error: BAD_POOL_HEADER
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\021110-59670-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\dxgmms1.sys
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: DIRECTX Graphics MMS
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Tue 2/2/2010 21:37:49 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: atwpkt264.sys
Bugcheck code: 0x11B (0xFFFFFA8005391780, 0xFFFFF8800942B390, 0x0, 0x0)
Error: DRIVER_RETURNED_HOLDING_CANCEL_LOCK
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\020210-46425-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\atwpkt264.sys
product: ATW Protocol Driver
company: America Online
description: ATW Protocol Driver



On Sat 1/30/2010 19:24:37 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe
Bugcheck code: 0xA (0x58, 0x2, 0x0, 0xFFFFF80002D77A10)
Error: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\013010-42900-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Fri 1/1/2010 22:08:14 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: bthaudiohf.sys
Bugcheck code: 0x1000007E (0xFFFFFFFFC0000005, 0xFFFFF88003920430, 0xFFFFF88008FD57D8, 0xFFFFF88008FD5030)
Error: SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED_M
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\010110-32963-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\bthaudiohf.sys
product: Bluetooth Hands-free Audio Device Driver
company: CSR, plc
description: Bluetooth Hands-free Audio Device Driver



On Wed 12/30/2009 19:47:25 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: atwpkt264.sys
Bugcheck code: 0x11B (0xFFFFFA8007287AE0, 0xFFFFF880079BA390, 0x0, 0x0)
Error: DRIVER_RETURNED_HOLDING_CANCEL_LOCK
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\123009-42229-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\atwpkt264.sys
product: ATW Protocol Driver
company: America Online
description: ATW Protocol Driver



On Tue 12/29/2009 21:52:13 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe
Bugcheck code: 0xA (0x58, 0x2, 0x0, 0xFFFFF80002D7BA10)
Error: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\122909-39561-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Wed 11/25/2009 14:24:38 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe
Bugcheck code: 0x1A (0x403, 0xFFFFF68000077658, 0xE240000086A67867, 0xFFFFF60000077658)
Error: MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\112509-32417-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Tue 11/24/2009 19:54:28 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe
Bugcheck code: 0xA (0x48, 0x2, 0x1, 0xFFFFF80002D7FABF)
Error: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\112409-37643-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Tue 11/24/2009 14:01:18 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe
Bugcheck code: 0x1E (0xFFFFFFFFC0000005, 0xFFFFF80002F78AE1, 0x0, 0xFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF)
Error: KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\112409-35225-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Mon 11/23/2009 12:18:25 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe
Bugcheck code: 0x1A (0x403, 0xFFFFF68000054A70, 0xFD5000006C882867, 0xFFFFF60000054A70)
Error: MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\112309-40123-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Mon 11/23/2009 07:39:34 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: atwpkt264.sys
Bugcheck code: 0x11B (0xFFFFFA80092EC610, 0xFFFFF880071D7390, 0x0, 0x0)
Error: DRIVER_RETURNED_HOLDING_CANCEL_LOCK
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\112309-27206-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\atwpkt264.sys
product: ATW Protocol Driver
company: America Online
description: ATW Protocol Driver



On SUN 11/22/2009 03:42:12 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: asyncmac.sys
Bugcheck code: 0x50 (0xFFFFF8800A29392C, 0x0, 0xFFFFF88001862CCE, 0x0)
Error: PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\112109-16504-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\asyncmac.sys
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: MS Remote Access serial network driver
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Sat 11/21/2009 07:44:32 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe
Bugcheck code: 0x3B (0xC0000005, 0xFFFFF80002AC6105, 0xFFFFF8800744CE60, 0x0)
Error: SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\112109-17877-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Sat 11/21/2009 02:21:20 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: tcpip.sys
Bugcheck code: 0x1E (0x0, 0x0, 0x0, 0x0)
Error: KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\112009-19203-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\tcpip.sys
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: TCP/IP Driver
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.



On Sun 11/1/2009 14:39:13 your computer crashed
This was likely caused by the following module: ntoskrnl.exe
Bugcheck code: 0xA (0xFFFFFA7FFFFFFFD0, 0x2, 0x1, 0xFFFFF80002A91AE3)
Error: IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Dump file: C:\Windows\Minidump\110109-33228-01.dmp
file path: C:\Windows\system32\ntoskrnl.exe
product: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
company: Microsoft Corporation
description: NT Kernel & System
The crash took place in a standard Microsoft module. Your system configuration may be incorrect, possibly the culprit may be another driver on your system which cannot be identified at this time.Swap in a another power supply of equal or greater wattage.

Good luck!Power Supply?! Really?! I haven't recorded any voltage fluctuations throughout all this and I'm only pulling down about 350-400 watts out of the 750 that's in there. Memtest is returning errors again...
At this point I think I'm going to contact A-Data and politely inform them that their product sucks for all intents and purposes. This will be the third bad module I've replaced...

My computer has a ASUS M.B. (P5N-E SLI). It is not a branded computer and the case is who knows, Adamant Computer put the parts in for me and it's their case. The bays I have are: 3.5, 2 DVD, and a single sound input/output dual USB port set on the front as well. The headphone jack is loose and I've had the little socket board (2 USB,mic and headhone) out to look at it to see if I could solder it together. But, no dream come true for me. It's busted in the little aluminum shield that's glued ( I think) to the board. I don't want all sorts of plugs and such, just want my headphones back.
How do I go about buying a front panel that's going to match the case? Adamant has one front for $30. I just have to drive 50 mi. round trip to do it. Don't mind throwing on the new face myself. I just want to know what to order/look for in front panels so I don't wind up sending back hardware that doesn't fit.
If I could track down the USB Mic Headphone board I'd do it, but have had no luck on the net finding the part #, nor does Adamant have the the part for me.
Thanks for any clues.Am unclear as to what it was (in terms of hardware) that you "took out" to try and repair. However notwithstanding that i see an alternative being to purchase a sound card (pci or whatever slots you have available) install it and then you will have a microphone/headphone jack plus potentially many other goodies depending how sophisticated a sound card that you purchase. truenorthtruenorth,

The hardware is a little green circuit board that has a plug end on that connects to a plug wire that in turn plugs to my ASUS board on the SPDIF port. The little board in only 4 cms. long and screws onto the back of my tower's front panel.

I just want to plug my headphones into the front of my tower (and a working headphone jack) so my family doesn't have to listen to my music and podcasts.So! As i believe i now understand where the problem is; it is not at the motherboard connection end. If so then i still believe my suggested option ought to give you a head set/microphone option back.truenorthQuote from: Thomas Bailey on May 03, 2010, 03:57:02 PM

...
I just want to plug my headphones into the front of my tower (and a working headphone jack) so my family doesn't have to listen to my music and podcasts.

WillyW,

Now that's what I'm talkin' about!

Thanks, I don't know how you found it.

Just have to check on the pin confg. to see if I can plug it OK to the ports on my MB.

Hello There!

This phenomenon recur often during summer months! After, say 30-45 minutes of system start my CPU starts making ambulance like siren, a continous pattern that aborts only after turning OFF the machine(THANKFULLY not forced manual shutdown!).

Which component is most likely to develop trouble?

& any practical solution to OFFER?Check to see if all fans are working properly.Hi Patio!

How to ascertain the 'Proper' functioning? Rear side(Cabinet) fan of CPU is working, I don know whether with proper speed or not!

The one which is installed over processor(inside), I have to check for the same!...but most likely it should be working.

Does overheating causes this Siren?

Sounds like CPU overtemperature alarm. Usually there is a setting in the BIOS to set the trigger temperature. Check your processor maximum temperature figure (in manufacturer's specification) and refer to your motherboard manual to see how to check the alarm setting. Check that processor fan is rotating at proper speed. Check that computer air intake and exhaust not blocked.
I agree, it might be time to blow out all the dust and replace the thermal paste on the CPU.Gotta love this. the CPU overheat alarm goes off, Patio asks if all the fans are working properly, and the response is "they should be"

Well of course they be, but we're trying to determine why the CPU temperature alarm is going off and it STANDS to reason that the heatsink fan, which is the main thing cooling the CPU and that alarm from going off in the ideal case, would be the FIRST thing to check. Essentially dismissing the validity of the question with "well it should be working" is sort of presumptious.Hey Salmon!

How can anyone check whether the FAN Speed is proper or else? I need to measure it with some instrument..Isn't it?

Isn't this a 'GEEK' thing to do? Quote from: Saurabhdua on May 17, 2010, 03:57:59 AM

Hey Salmon!

How can anyone check whether the FAN Speed is proper or else? I need to measure it with some instrument..Isn't it?

Isn't this a 'GEEK' thing to do?

Another thing, can my UPS also make such an alert? But, the UPS was very much on the Mains at that time.Surely!

Can it still happen?

Another thing, can my UPS also make such an alert? But, the UPS was very much on the Mains at that time.

I have a cpu that says two things that it is a Pentium D 3.2Ghz 940 Presler also a Celeron 3.2ghz using Pc Wizard
I need help to identify what this Cpu really is is it a celeron or a pentium D

Here are the CPU specs your help will be appreciated

> Processor : Intel Pentium D 940



>> General Information

Type : Intel Pentium D

Internal Specification : Intel(R) Celeron(R) D CPU 3.20GHz

Model Number : 940

Codename : Presler

Revision : C1

Technology : 0.065µ

CPU ID : F.6.4

CPU IDEx : F.6.4

Microcode : MU0F6404

Architecture : NetBurst



>> Instructions

IA-64 Technology : No

Intel64 (EM64T) : Yes

AVX : No

FPU128 : No

SSE5 : No

SSE4a : No

SSE4.2 : No

SSE4.1 : No

S-SSE3 : No

SSE3 : Yes

SSE2 : Yes

SSE : Yes

AES : No

Extended 3DNow! Technology : No

3DNow! Technology : No

3DNOW Prefetch : No

3DNow! Pro Technology : Yes

AMD MMX Technology : No

MMX Technology : Yes

Cyrix MMX Technology : No

FMA : No

OSXSAVE : No

MOVBE : No

PCLMULQDQ : No

CLF - Cache Line Flush : Yes

CX8 - CMPXCHG8B : Yes

CX16 - CMPXCHG16B : Yes

CMOV - Conditionnal Move Inst. : Yes

MON - Monitor/Mwait : Yes

POPCNT : No

RDTSCP : No

SEP - Fast System Call : Yes



>> Miscellaneous

XD - No-execute Page : Yes

VT-x - Virtualization : No

TXT - Trusted Execution Technology : No

SVM - Secure Virtual Machine : No

FPU - Co-processor Built-in : Yes

FXSR - Fast Float Save & RESTORE : Yes

xTPR - Send Task Priority : Yes

DAZ - Denormals Are Zero : Yes

FFXSR : No

LAHFSAHF : Yes

CMPLEGACY : No

ALTMOVCR8 : No

ExtApicSpace : No

3DNow! Technology : No

PBE - Pend. Brk. EN. : No

LAHF - LAHF/SAHF Inst. : No

ABM : No

MASSE - Misaligned SSE : No

OSVW - OS Visible Workaround : No

IBS : No

P1GB - 1GB Page Size : No

SKINIT, STGI, DEV : No

WDT - Watchdog Timer : No



>> Features

x2APIC : No

APIC - Local APIC Built-in : Yes

VME - Virtual Mode Ext. : Yes

DE - Debugging Extension : Yes

PSE - Page Size Extension : Yes

TSC - Time Stamp Counter : Yes

MSR - Model Specific Registers : Yes

PAE - Physical Address Extension : Yes

MCE - Machine Check Exception : Yes

MTRR - Memory Type Range Reg. : Yes

PGE - Page Global Enable : Yes

MCA - Machine Check Architecture : Yes

PAT - Page Attribute Table : Yes

PSE36 - 36-bit Page Size Extension : Yes

PSN - Unique Serial Number : No

DS - Debug Trace & EMON Store : Yes

SS - Self Snoop : Yes

ACPI - Software Clock Control : Yes

TM - Thermal Monitor : Yes

TM2 - Thermal Monitor 2 : No

EST - Enhanced SpeedStep Technology : No

HTT - Hyper-Threading : Yes

SBF - Signal Break on FERR : Yes

DSCPL - CPL qualified Debug Store : Yes

CID - Context ID : Yes

LT - LaGrande Technology : No

PDCM : Yes

DCA - Direct Cache Access : No

EPS - Enhanced PowerSaver : No



>> Features Hyper-Threading

Technology : Yes - Disabled



>> Features Multi-Core

Physical Processor #0 (Core #0) : Apic ID 0



>> Power Status

TURBO Boost : No

Digital Thermometer : No

Operating Point Protection : No

Dynamic FSB : No

Dynamic Acceleration : No

Performance Energy Bias : No

APERF_MERF : No



>> Addressing Information

Physical Addressing max. : 36-bit

Linear Addressing max. : 48-bit



>> Advanced Settings

In Order Queue Depth : 12

Fast-Strings : Yes

x87 FPU Opcode : No

Thermal Monitor : Yes

Split-Lock : Yes

Performance Monitoring : Yes

Prefetch Queue : Yes

Branch Trace Storage : Yes

C1E - Enhanced Halt State : No

Temperature Control : 18 °C



>> Mainboard Upgradeability

Socket/Slot : LGA 775

UPGRADE interface : Unspecified

Supported Speed : 4000 MHz (or more)

Supported Voltage : 3.0V



> Frequency : 3200 MHz



>> General Information

Real Frequency : 3200.3 MHz

Multiplier : 24x

Low/High Multiplier : 12x / 24x

Multiplier Locked : Yes

Marketing Frequency : 3200.16 MHz



>> Front Side Bus Information

Bus Speed : 133.3 MHz

FSB Frequency : 533.4 MHz (QDR)

Turbo Mode : No



>> Initial Frequencies

Frequency : 3200 MHz

Bus Speed : 133.34 MHz (QDR)

Multiplier : 24x



>> Frequency Control

Core #1 : 3200.37 MHz

Core #2 : 0.00 MHz



>> Control Clock Frequency

Type : None



>> Thermal Information

Thermal control TM1 : Yes - Enabled

Thermal control TM2 : No

Thermal Control Circuit : No

Digital Thermal Sensor : No

Clock Modulation (ODCM) Enabled : No



> Number of Core : 2



>> General Information

Number of Threads : 2 (max.1)

Number of Core : 2 (max. 1)

Number of Thread per Core : 1 (max. 1)



> Support : Socket 775 LGA



> Data Cache L1 : 2 x 16 KB



>> General Information

Type : Asynchronous

Write Mode : Write-Through

Place : Internal

Correct : Single-bit ECC



>> Cache Information

Data Cache : 2 x 16 KB (8-way, 64 bytes line size)

L1 Context Mode : Adaptive

Number of Threads : 1



>> Cache Parameters

Type : Data Cache

Ways of associativity : 8

Fully Associative : No

Self Intializing : Yes

System COHERENCY Line Size : 64

Physical Line partitions : 1

Number of threads sharing : 1

Number of processor cores : 1

Number of Sets : 32



> Trace Cache L1 : 2 x 12 Kµops



>> Cache Information

Trace Cache L1 : 12 Kµops (8-way)



>> Cache Parameters

Type : Data Cache

Ways of associativity : 8

Fully Associative : No

Self Intializing : Yes

System Coherency Line Size : 64

Physical Line partitions : 1

Number of threads sharing : 1

Number of processor cores : 1

Number of Sets : 32



> Cache L2 : 512 KB



>> General Information

Type : Asynchronous

Write Mode : Write-Back

Place : Internal

Multiplier : 1/1x (3200.4 MHz)

Correct : Single-bit ECC



>> Cache Information

Associativity : 8-way

Line Size : 64 bytes

Number of Threads : 1

Bus : 256-bit

Prefetch Logic : Yes



>> Cache Parameters

Type : Unified Cache

Ways of associativity : 8

Fully Associative : No

Self Intializing : Yes

System Coherency Line Size : 64

Physical Line partitions : 2

Number of threads sharing : 1

Number of processor cores : 1

Number of Sets : 512



> FPU Coprocessor : Present



>> General Information

Integrated : Yes

Model : Compatible Intel



> Core 1 Activity : 13%



> Core 2 Activity : 0%



------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

***** End of report *****


You can email me @ [emailprotected] for your response

Thank You! Welcome to the forums.
CPU-Z usually gives the correct reading, have you tried that?
I'd take a guess it's a Pentium D 940 based on what we have.

P.S. you may want to remove your email address from your post, to prevent spam.I'd have to say it's a Celeron, myself. I'm no expert, but from what I understand of it the Celeron-D, unlike the Pentium-D, is not a dual core processor. Since this reports only a single core, based on that information I surmise it is a Celeron.

Since a Celeron is really just a stripped down Pentium, whatever the generation, they usually are reported as Pentiums by some programs.


Hmm ... it's odd, as different parts of that report seem to report one core and others 2 cores.
The 533MHz FSB makes me think it's more likely to be a Celeron D, but why is the model then reported as a 940 (codename Presler, C1 stepping), which is a Pentium D? Celeron D and Pentium D are totally different, the Pentium D was dual core while the Celeron D was not, so I wouldn't expect to see it misreported in that way.
It's definitely a strange one.

Can I add ram using an EXPRESSCARD 34 slot? My mother's Dell Inspiron B130 is seriously lacking ram. I don't
know how $ it would be to add it internally at a shop.

Thanx,

MacThat laptop was a budget unit with a max of 512Mg of RAM...
If it only has 256 (1 stick) you can easily add another stick yourself without PAYING a shop to do it...
The Manual is available online as a DLoad.Quote from: Mac29 on May 08, 2010, 08:01:34 AM

Can I add ram using an ExpressCard 34 slot?

Hello,

I have a dell inspiron 1525 laptop and a few weeks ago it was dropped and the screen was broken. I have bought a new screen from ebay (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DELL-INSPIRON-1525-15-4-LAPTOP-LCD-SCREEN-WXGA-/260537450874?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Computing_LaptopAccess_RL&hash=item3ca93e017a#ht_5732wt_1165).

I got a computer specialist to fit it, but it is too dark (i.e. it is as if I have it on power-saver mode) and the brightening function using the 'Fn' button and the up-arrow doesn't work properly (it doesn't show the bar on the screen and has only two levels of brightness, both of which you can see what is on the screen ok, but as I said, the brightest level is only a bright as on power-saver mode).

I rang the company that I bought the screen from and they said I could return it and they would send me a slightly different model. However, this new screen was no different.

What do you think the problem is? The backlight? Or is the screen not fully compatible? I don't think the way it has been fitted is a problem because it was done by a professional.

Any help would be much appreciated!

steveHi
If you still have the old screen or can lay your hands on it you will find the make and serial number on the back this is the screen you need.
There are different recsolution and aspect ratios some screens will fit but will not be very clear. Check this article out at http://laptoplogic.com/resources/detail.php?id=38 I believe the right RESOLUTION for your laptop should be WXGA+ 1440 x 900.
Go back to the guy who fitted it he should have checked before fitting, I do when I fit screensHi, thanks for the quick response,

the guy that fitted showed me the right screen to buy on ebay and says he checked the make and serial number first... so still unsure of what the problem is??Ok
you have INSPIRON 1525, Shutdown your computer & PRESS D + Power Key (System on/off key) together & check, if u can see colours on the screen CLEARLY. ok. an also check in BIOS for clearnessAs I said in my reply go back to the engineer who fitted the screen and explain your predicament. As he advised you and fitted the screen he should know the problem and fix it for free. Ask him the make and number of the new screen and you can check on the internet if you have the correct one.
Make sure you have all the updates from Dell. You may need to update your graphics cardI've explained to the guy, but he doesn't know why its not bright enough, which is annoying. But I'm gonna pick up the old screen from him and check on the internet if i have the right part. I'm also gonna try these dell updates.

I tried the D+power button thing and the screen just stayed blank, no colours - I had to press the power button again to get the computer to boot.

BIOS also seems quite dark - it is usable, but its just not as bright as it should be....

In Dell System there is a inbuilt Test
Call Preboot assesment Test u can run that check. if u get any error code in that contact dell with that error code they will tell u which part has gone bad & it will also check other parts in the system

to run the test press FN + Power keyI've done that 'Fn+Power button' thing and it came up with no problems. I've also downloaded and installed all of the drivers from the dell website - the screen doesn't go any brighter BUT the brightness bar does now appear (with the little sun).

So my next plan of action is to contact dell, (I have got the serial number of the old, broken screen) and ask them what they think the problem is...unless anyone else has got any other ideas?is ur system is in warranty,,,,
ReplyLaptops have something inside of the lip of the frame just beneath the screen. It's a voltage inverter for the back-light and some of them also have a magnet in them to cut power to the back-light when the lid is closed (As opposed to a mechanical MOMENTARY button as was the custom up until about 2006). When the laptop was dropped, this inverter could have been damaged. I know for a fact when replacement LCD's are ordered, a new inverter does NOT come with them, however it's always been my policy to check that inverter with a voltage tester.

Also, adding on, the wires that lead from the mother-board to the display are VERY VERY VERY tiny and are woven through the sometimes STEEL hinges on the display frame. A drop could very well have pinched one of these wires and it's either grounding to the frame and causing a short or it's been severed all-together. Have your guy check on these wires for any damage while testing the inverter.The laptop is not in warranty unfortunately....

I will get the guy to check the inverter and the motherboard wires.

Also, do you think that this is relevant to what the problem is. The brightness bar that appears when I press 'Fn+Arrow' is faulty - while the bar moves up, the actual brightness of the screen doesn't correlate to it, i.e the screen will be dark, then a BIT brighter, then dark again, then a bit brighter than before, then dark again (with only about three levels of brightness)....if that makes any sense?

If something is physically damaged on a circuit board, but it still works to a point, it's a bit difficult to say exactly how the final product will react. One bad resistor can brick the whole thing, or just make certain things act 'funny' because of a voltage irregularity. How the back-light on an LCD screen illuminates correlates to only a few things; which one, how badly it's broken and how the back-light will react to the damage can easily vary and it's impossible for me to be specific without looking at the component that may be damaged.

I know this is really stupid and I should have known better, but I panicked.
I have a Dell Dimension 2400, Pentium 4, windows xp, service pack 3.
I have been having problems with the hard drive I had, decided to install windows on the second hard drive (took out the 1st one) I installed windows, drivers, microsoft updates, etc.
I have a EVGA 6200 graphics card and decided to load those drivers, well after I did that and rebooted the screen was black, so I went to the website and found an answer that said to change the BIOS setting, well I changed the wrong one.
What I did is pressed the F2 key and in that monitor setting changed it from auto to the other option (which I can't remember exactly what it said) something like "ONBOARD". Now I don't even get a signal to the monitor, can I undo this terribly stupid thing or have I completely shut down my motherboard seeing the monitor?
I thought maybe if I could see a pic of the F2 screen I could undo it WITHOUT using the monitor, just arrow down X amount of times to get to that COMMAND?

Please help.Well, I talked to Dell and they said because i have it PLUGGED into the graphics card and I changed the setting to onboard, it's looking for it's original graphics card. so if i connect it to the computer, instead of the graphics card I should get a signal then change the setting back. I just don't have that connector here, i have to go get one. will let you know, in CASE anyone else does this.ok, it worked. found 3 cords for $2.00 at a yard sale - lucky me. was able to connect that way, and change back the BIOS.
I still have the black screen, but now I can get to the BIOS to hopefully change the RIGHT one.

I accidently used the wrong plug to my external hard drive using an adaptor that outputs 19v instead of 12v. Now the hard drive isn't working, is there anyway of FIXING it easily or will I have to take it into a repair store?

Thank youThere's a good chance that you may have FRIED the drive itself.

Was this a home MADE external drive or did you buy it in the enclosure?It's a Maxtor. Not home-made. Does that mean there may be no chance of recovering anything off it?You could ALWAYS ATTEMPT to slave the drive to see if anything can be recovered.