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its a d-sub connector not a jack, but yeah???well w.e man lol... anyway.. the ONE on my mother board doesnt work when i hook my monitor up to it.. i dont know if its cause all my display drivers are set for my all in wander graphics card threw ATI or what..I know but its a matter of if your in the field you have to know what they are. It probably disabled the on board if it has it in the bios. You COULD move the cmos jumper an see after resting it. Depends on the board, also you could try removeing the cmos battery with the power off an PUT it back in an check.ive had the batter out before didnt work..how would i that in the Bios if you dont mind me asking.. Cause id really like to get it to work so i can get another graphics card..the connector for it is about broke so plus im tired of it..Hello Jamie009, your right when you say:

Quote

its cause all my display drivers are set for my all in wander graphics card threw ATI or what.

ive had the batter out before didnt work..how would i that in the Bios if you dont mind me asking.. Cause id really like to get it to work so i can get another graphics card..the connector for it is about broke so plus im tired of it..

I have an Aspire 5600 Acer laptop that's almost 4 years old. I run Windows XP and have Norton Antivirus 2009 (I think). About 4 or 5 months ago, my computer kept freezing after about 5-10 minutes every time I used it. I put it back to the factory settings because there was a lot of junk and such that was clogging up the comp and I thought that was the problem. UNFORTUNATELY, it wasn't. I told my FATHER, and he put in 2GB of MEMORY, and it stopped freezing and I could use it without a problem. It was fine on Wednesday, but when I started up the comp yesterday, it decided to go back to its old ways. I find that if I take the battery out and run it on outlet power it can go a little longer without freezing, but not much longer.

For a while, when when this problem started, system standby wouldn't work anymore, and neither would hibernation (It would stay on the "Going into standby mode, please wait..." until I turned it off.) And after a while the screensaver stopped working. Also, whenever it checked the disk for errors, it said 32 KB in Bad Sectors.

I included a picture- sometimes when it freezes (if you look at the top of the Norton screen) it goes all weird, and I can't move the mouse.

Any help would be much appreciated... Is there anything that would help this, or is it just time to get a new computer?

[attachment deleted by admin]Start simple:

Click START, click RUN, type: msconfig

When the window pops up, click on the "start up" tab, click "disable all", click "apply", click "ok" then restart....

Now when you computer boots, it will boot faster and generally run a little faster because all those programs won't be eating your processor's cycles.

Next, click START, My Computer, right click on the "C" drive and click "properties"....click on the tools tab...Under "error checking" click "check now", under "check disk options" check both boxes, and then click start...let it run for a while and see if it will repair the bad sectors for you...


I would also follow the instructions for posting in the anti-virus forum here at CH..



NOTE: uninstall all/any programs you are not using, and then run the system defragmentor !!!Check for and let the system correct any file system and/or bad sector errors it finds before running "Defrag" on the disk volume.

As you follow the instructions from "blockHEAD", the system will probably inform you the boot volume "C:" is in use and ask if you want to schedule the check to be performed upon next system start. Say "yes", then perform system shutdown and reboot.

As it reboots, it will perform the error check before loading the operating system. It can take a long time (several hours) depending upon the SIZE of the volume and the number of errors and/or bad sectors it discovers. There are times when it may appear to "hang" for twenty minutes or more... It probably is not hung. Let it run to completion. Do NOT interrupt or abort the process.

If you have "data" on the hard drive you want, back it up as soon as possible. Bad sectors may be an indication the drive is failing.1) MSCONFIG is a diagnostic tool. It is okay to follow the above instructions for troubleshooting purposes, but not to permanently CHANGE the boot process. If you want to stop items from starting they should be deleted from the start menu or the registry entry (typically done by changing options in the programs themselves).

2) If you want to run checkdisk with XP the correct method is to boot to the Recovery Console and run chkdsk /r, not to schedule it from within the gui.

I could be wrong, but most things are kept in PM to avoid 'airing your laundry in public'.

I was just a little SURPRISED by your post.i just DONT want anyone PM ing me
by the way quantos where have you been?I've been working. I work 12 hour days, so when I'm on shift I don't post.

If you don't want us PM'ing you about the disagreement, then don't mention it online.

I could REALLY CARE less about who is arguing with who.GO MULREAY! You need a CMOS battery which is CR2032 which you can buy in any consumer eletronics shop.

Hello all,

My computer recently crashed (seemingly), happened over a few days. Seemed like a malware of sorts.
Since I have little time to fix, i continued using it in safe mode. Then it wouldn't start and made a beeping sound when I tried. So I checked the RAM and found ONE of them just barely out of its slot.
If it was a prank it was a good one, to make it gradually come out. I did even think of reinstalling the OS.
Anyways, while opening the cabinet I noticed a switch that would go off when I opened the side panel. Don't remember seeing this before.
I was WONDERING why there should be a switch there and couldn't come up with a reasonable explanation.
Any ideas?The switch may deactivate power to the motherboard, so that the computer cannot be started if the CASE is open. This is done, on certain brands, as a safety precaution.But I am WORKING now with the panel open, so it must be deactivated if you are RIGHT. Do you think it might be a bios option?Possible. Probably not.

Might be a way to use a clamp or tape to keep the switch depressed in the on position.

Be careful.The documentation may say that sit is for intrusion detect.Yes -- I forgot about that. Then you may just get a message that the case has been opened.If the machine has a chassis intrusion switch then YES there will be an option in the BIOS to turn it on/off...

I have a Dell Inspiron E1705 laptop (out of warranty) that will not power up. When I press the power button, the power light goes on for just a few seconds, then goes out. No FAN noise, nothing on screen, nothing period. In one of the forums I read to push the FN button while pushing the power button, then holding. When I do that, the 3 LED lights (at top, the 3 LOCK lights) go on briefly, then go out. I have removed the battery, checked it (it's fine) just used AC power, just used the battery, nothing WORKS. I am suspecting that maybe the internal power board is fried or possibly the power button circuit board is fried. When I took it to my NEIGHBORHOOD computer store, it worked fine (twice!). I am at my wits end. Can someone help me? Thanks for your time.Define "...it worked fine".

Alan <>< Quote from: ale52 on September 10, 2009, 10:18:38 AM

Define "...it worked fine".

Alan <><

ps2 cannot become usb (i dont think)it most CERTAINLY can with an adapterQuote from: ADG on September 02, 2009, 12:21:34 PM

I'm not going to READ another thread, but you should certainly install the battery for your cmos.

may explain why the compaq didnt see my keyboard then

I have an older HP psc950 all in one printer. It is printing Ok, but is producing blank pages for copies and faxes. Is this something with the (EYE?) (light?) in these units that is not WORKING? If so, is it repairable, or time to REPLACE?

Would the loading of graphics be effected if the monitor is an old CRT. The system has a 256mb graphic card in it and 2gb of ram. But some graphics from the net are very slow to load. If I CHANGED the monitor over to a new LCD would that MAKE a DIFFERENCE?NO
the graphics output is not effected by the display
only the quality

after the POST- no BIOS code is RUN. Why? Because it can't run while the CPU is in Protected mode anyway, since it's real mode code.

Things that whole HELP:

More of the everest log

These "EVENT log entries" that make implications.

My laptop broke a few MONTHS ago and the hard drive had to be replaced, and I was told by the guy who did it that I needed to put in the CD that came with the laptop and then it would be fixed. However, I didn't get a CD with my laptop so I ordered one from HP.

When I put the CD in though, it just says "invalid system disk". I have had the disk replaced TWICE so I'm quite sure it's the right one, but I don't know what to do!

I would really appreciate some help!try formatting the disk BEFORE you use the CD...How do you know if the disk is formatted? And if it isn't, how do you format it?

Sorry if I'm just being stupid... Samaleyo, Don't beat yourself up as to a lack of knowledge.Until you have done it or studied it knowledge is not in the genes.Here is but one of many links the will give you the guidance.
http://www.mahalo.com/how-to-format-a-hard-drive
truenorth1. Boot from CD. It sounds like you need to tell the laptop to startup from the CD drive (HP Recovery CD) instead of the "empty" hard drive.

There's probably a function key to use during startup which will permit you to select CD drive as boot device (place HP Recovery CD in drive before making boot device selection). If not, you'd have to enter CMOS setup to change the boot device ORDER in BIOS (again via a function key or other designated key during system startup).

2. HP Support and Documentation. HP provides documentation and detailed instructions for many things. Your problem is one many users will face, and I'm sure HP has anticipated this and documented the appropriate steps (and function keys) you need to reinstall the operating system to your "new" hard drive.

My guess is HP will setup the new hard drive for you (partition and format) during the recovery process initiated by the HP Recovery CD. If I'm wrong we can deal with that later.

3. Model Number. Give us the complete Name and Model Number of the laptop, and I'll see if I can find the appropriate links on their web site for this information.thanks for the help!

Okay, I tried changing the boot order, but it STILL says "Invalid system disk. REPLACE the disk, and then press any key."

It's a HP Pavilion dv6599ea, I think that's the info you wanted?Are you sure you saved the boot order changes you made in bios, sometimes it can be confusing to 'exit & save changes' for beginners.
Equally as important is to have the recovery disk in the drive as well.The support page for your machine is: HP Pavilion dv6599ea Entertainment Notebook PC.

See subsection "Restore the PC to its original condition with the recovery discs" about halfway down within the following link: Using HP Backup and Recovery Manager

What operating system came with the laptop? Are the Recovery Discs for the same operating system?You may also want to remove the CD drive and re-seat it...there should be a release button right next to it.

The normal command to "save changes and Exit" from a BIOS setup menu is F10...The CD is for the correct operating system and I'm sure that I saved the boot order, but it doesn't seem to have changed anything.

My laptop doesn't respond to the CD the way the HP website says, it doesn't seem to recognise it at all.Just for the heck of it, do you have a cd you KNOW is bootable? If so, try booting to it and see what happens - OR - try booting to the new recovery disk on another computer.Have you removed the drive and re-seated it yet ? ?

So it starts with my HP Vista laptop having issues with its DEP and then with anything windows related. I bought an external hardrive to back up the files and then do a system restore. After successfully doing both I tried to restore the data but at first glance couldn't figure out how to do it, so I decided I would try restoring it onto my DESKTOP, which runs on XP, when I did that I realized what I was doing wrong in the first place and knew how I could get it onto my laptop but my desktop has alot of memory and I thought it would be a safe place to put all my stuff in case something happens to my laptop again. So I restored the data onto my desktop and then after it FINISHED the system froze and the computer shut off. Now when I try to power on my desktop it stops at the startup Emachine screen (just a really big e).

I realize that loosing the data is my fault but if anyone has any help for either fixing my computer or at least restoring the data on my desktop it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.Is there anyway you can start up in safe mode? Tap F8 repeatedly on start up.From your post it is not clear what you did. What method of BACKUP and restore did you use?

Here we often use the term "data" to mean the user documents and his media. But not the actual operating system data.

When we need a copy of another system for safe keeping, we place the entire backup hunk into a folder that is not a working part of the local system.
It sounds like you tried to restore the Vista system into the core of the XP system, which would fail.

Because of my past failures in trying to recovery a damaged system, my method is to use another hard drive from my spare parts. I install XP on to a spare drive. Then when done place the troubled drive in to the other SATA pr IDE connection as a second drive. I reboot the new install and the I can recover just the user data that I need from the drive with the sick system. Sounds like its a total driver issue. To get the data off of your desktop computer, what you need to do is get into the case and physically unplug the hard drive. Then, get access to another desktop SOMEWHERE and unplug the cd drive from that desktop and put in your hard drive. Your hard drive will now act like a secondary drive and be listed as the E or F drive usually. Yank all the files you want off of it, then put them on a flash drive. Dont forget to connect back the cd drive! As for the boot up issue, im not really sure, you would need to give more details. You could try swapping out hard drives and then booting to see if its just the hard drive. If it is, get all your data off (see above) then just format the hard drive and reinstall your OS.Thanks guys. I'm pretty sure I just backed up user data not Vista, thats why I'm confused on why it crashed. Putting the hard drive in another computer, is that like using it as a SLAVE drive? I did some research before I came here and I was a little confused about where I would put my hard drive in another computer but that makes sense now. Could I use an older desktop (my first computer old ) or do I need something a little more up-to-date.Slave Drive Tutorial.

I have a big problem with my Insignia D400 PC. I was trying to install a new graphics card, because the on-board graphics viewer was going bad. I called the manufacturer of the graphics card to get some help, and a well-meaning help desk rep. told me to update the bios to my motherboard. I followed his instructions and downloaded a bios update form Intel's website for my Intel motherboard. Unfortunately, none of my USB ports work now. I downloaded the Microsoft Service Pack I to my computer, rebooted, but still the USB ports were unresponsive. I went to the Device Manager on my Computer to SEARCH for updates to the Universal Serial Bus Controllers, but they are nowhere listed in the device manager, even after downloading the Service Pack I. I also TRIED to reformat my computer to the original factory settings, but the USB ports will still not respond. I then went to safe mode and went into the USB section of safe mode, but it is empty. When I say empty, I mean that there are no drivers or settings listed. It's as if the USB drivers were wiped off of the computer, and now the update motherboard bios are PREVENTING me from downloading the USB drivers again, because the new bios are not compatible with the original USB drivers. Grrrrr... This is very frustrating. Does anyone have any suggestions to help me fix this problem without spending money on a new motherboard? Quote from: PCdangerous on SEPTEMBER 11, 2009, 02:46:28 PM

...I followed his instructions and downloaded a bios update form Intel's website for my Intel motherboard. Unfortunately, none of my USB ports work now...

i reinstall xp in my pc when i logged in windows there was no SOUND... the SPEAKER was plugged correctly..then i installed sound from mercury mainboard cd installation was finished and restart it... then ALSO no sound...then i check device manger.. there yellow question mark on pci(simple communication controller)is that is why my PC has no sound??? then what shall i do???Did you install both the CHIPSET driver and the audio driver?Quote from: Allan on September 11, 2009, 08:49:26 AM

Did you install both the chipset driver and the audio driver?

Quote from: Frejoh466 on September 12, 2009, 01:39:56 PM

Thanks I only SAY to ppl who can help me...

someone can delete this, You guys will just be a <censored> now and it was my bad to think I would get help here.

Thanks I only say to ppl who can help me...

someone can delete this, You guys will just be a <censored> now and it was my bad to think I would get help here.

So my laptop battery wont charge past 8 percent. It just all of a SUDDEN started i haven't bumped it or put it in heat or anything of that sort and it just all of a sudden HAPPENED. I have a dell xps and i wont lie i dont know the numbers that follow the xps. The battery is a "dell battery codule rechargeable li-ion battery type HG307". I have tried leaving it off with it plugged in and it leaves the light on that its charging for a little bit and then turns off as if its full but the battery is still at 8 percent. Also if i leave it plugged in it says its charging but it stays at 8 percent the whole time. I kinda know my way around a computer but i wont lie i am a newb to it all. If you could help it would be amazing. I really dont want to buy a new battery because of how expensive they are so if there is any other way i would love it. Thank you.How old is your laptop? How old is your battery?They are both roughly a year and a half years old. Its the same battery that came with the laptop when i bought them both new.Hmmm... What did Dell SAY to you about the lifespan of your battery?You should be able to reset the battery thru Dell software. I had a Dell laptop sometime ago and there is an option to reset it. Check Dell's site or use your friend Google.

Alan <>< So im not exactly sure what i should be looking for on google to reset the battery but i did find out through looking through dells site that it seems everyone who bought this kind of laptop (found out its a xps m1730) has had the battery die after a little over a year, Guess what the warranty on the battery can only go up to a year. So thats fun. But if you could tellm e how to find a way to reset my battery i am more than willing to try that.Additional info I found in Google:

One battery cycle is used every time a battery is charged or discharged. Technically speaking, it is defined as the number of cycles a battery can PERFORM before its nominal capacity falls below 80% of its initial rated capacity. Lifetimes of 500 to 1200 cycles are typical. For example, NiCad battery has a cycle life of 500-1000 or more cycles.Please allow me to make a suggestion.
If the Dell is otherwise giving good service and your wish to keep it, consider buying a better replacement battery. Use Li-ion, 11.1V instead of the original technology.

Here is just one of many vendors who other this type of replacement for your laptop.
http://www.my-batteries.com/laptop-batteries/dell-hg307.htm
If you are not happy with this, the offer a 30-day money back. If you keep it the warranty is one read. Read the fine print.

Or Google "replacement for battery HG307"

When I got a new battery for my old IBM laptop I was confused by the fact the the new battery had less voltage but could run longer that the original.

FYI. Keeping a bad battery in a laptop may, overtime, cause DAMAGE to the charging system and other things.
Thank you so much everyone for the help!!! I have just now purchased the battery you recommended thank you!!!

Hi,
I am having trouble booting up my computer. This is an old Gateway, but still in good condition. Everything has been working fine until about 3 weeks ago. I tried to uninstall my operating system to reinstall it. I had too much stuff on it so I wanted to get rid of some stuff. So when I tried to reinstall it, for some reason, when I hit the power button on my hard drive, it goes straight to the 1st screen and hangs there. It will not go any further. This is what I'm seeing on the very 1st screen:

GATEWAY

INTEL BOOT MENU:
INSIDE BIOS SETTING:

I HOPE this makes sense. I've tried hitting F10, F8, F2, F12, F everything, nothing happens. I tried to Ctrl+Alt+Del a few times, nothing happens. It just hangs on this screen. It's like something is holding it up from moving forward from this screen. I really hope this makes sense to you and I hope SOMEONE can help me. Any suggestions will be very helpful.
I don't know what you mean you tried to uninstall your OS, but let's not worry about it right now. Change the bios so it boots to the cd first, insert your OS cd in the drive, reboot and when the install process starts CHOOSE the option to format first.You may also WANT to try a PS2 keyboard on it if it's not letting you into Setup...Quote from: patio on September 12, 2009, 04:41:33 PM

You may also want to try a PS2 keyboard on it if it's not letting you into Setup...

So my computer will not read the recordable DISCS i bought on my computer. I burned some stuff on a couple of them on another computer and then i put them in my computer and they it reads thoughs that have data on the. But it wont read the ones taht are blank. I mean i put them in my computer and click on the dvd-cd-rw drive and it LETS me go into it, but when i try to burn SOMETHING to it it says there is no cd in it. Help please. I have windows xp if that helps For the ones that you know have data on them but cannot be read the most COMMON cause of this is that the burning session itself was not "finalised"...
To remedy this DLoad and install the FREE version of ISOBuster...
You can then extract the data to your HDD and then re-burn the compilation making sure it is finalised.
This setting is different with all burn apps so we may need more info.

As far as the blank ones the only thing i can suggest is borrow 1 or 2 blanks of different Brands of blanks...some burners are picky about what Brands they like.It would help if you could tell us what software you are using to burn these disc.I have TRIED nero 9 and deep burner pro. Neither of them worked it keeps saying the drive is empty or cannot be modified . But my computer reads the ones that already have data on them(i have tried adding data the to the ones that my computer reads and it says drive cannot be modified) . IT just dosent read the blank ones. So your suggesting that my burner just dosent like the discs? What discs do you think i should use. I have Sony DVD+r 120/min 4.7gb Accucore RW Quote

As far as the blank ones the only thing i can suggest is borrow 1 or 2 blanks of different Brands of blanks...some burners are picky about what Brands they like.

can you put 2GB 667 Mhz CT25664AC667 DDR2 SODIMM in COMPAQ Presario M2010US (M2000) I know its ddr but I read some where that it will only take 1 giggo to www.crucial.com and use their tool to see what your COMPUTER can handle.http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=Presario%20M2000%20SeriesIt might work and it might not. You would have to experiment. Crucial says NO, but sometimes their information is based on what was available at the time the computer was manufactured. It says 512MB/slot. Will 1024MB work? No way to know for sure unless you try it or find SOMEONE with exactly the same computer who has done it successfully.I doubt it will work...2 512's maybe...

It rarely changes on laptops once they are shipped.

Plus it's the wrong type of RAM anyway.thanx guy you saved my you know what Quote from: patio on September 13, 2009, 01:25:02 PM

I doubt it will work...2 512's maybe...

It rarely changes on laptops once they are shipped.

Plus it's the wrong type of RAM anyway.

i am currently in the process of changing my case of my old computer and adding another hardrive. my old psu only has 1 sata connection so an upgrade was needed.
all i WANT to know is if this POWER supply: http://www.ebuyer.com/product/135197
will be able to handle this case and its 5 fans http://www.ebuyer.com/product/118268If all you are going to do is run the 5 fans I don't see why the PSU wouldn't sufficient.

However if you plan on PUTTING things like a mother board, hard drives, video card, and the other essential parts needed to actually run a computer then you need to POST the specs for all the COMPONENTS. i have an asus PK5CM motherboard 4 gigs of ram 800mhz, 9800gtx+ GPU and an intel Q6600 quad core CPU800W should be sufficient for your setup...

While trying to get our computer to recognize the attached monitor, I regretfully disabled the monitor thinking it would then maybe pick up the attached monitor. Now the screen is black. When the computer reboots, all the initial screens are visible up to the windows XP banner and then when it should be showing the desktop, it goes black.

I have tried changing monitors, rebooting in safe mode, last known good config, etc. but NOTHING but black screen. How do I fix this please!! It is the only computer we have that runs my daughter's chemistry homework and I am desperate.

Gateway GM5260 Computer, windows xpTry this. As soon as you see the XP Logo (before the screen goes dark) hold down the LEFT CTRL key on the keyboard and continue to hold it down until the system finishes booting to the gui. I don't really expect it to work but it's easy enough to try.

If that does not work we'll try a repair install.I prayed first but it STILL didn't work

you need a new VIDEO card.
win boothing the computer sneds its data deracly to the monater.
to display the gui it need the video card.
so if it desplay the boot stuff but not the desk top then the vido card is busted and you will have to by a new one.Ignore the above post.

Please Help..
I have just bought a new Hard Drive (Maxtor 40 GB)
and connected it to my desktop. when I ty to
bootup .. it cannot be detected.... How do I detect the hard drive and format it.You should boot up to a boot disk and run FDISK and FORMAT. Then they can be detected.

Or, Windows2000 install will do it all for you if this is the disk where you will be installing the Windows.

Chris C.If it fails to detect in BIOS, set the jumpers right. Try the primary drive as MASTER with slave and the new one as Slave, and if that fails try both in Cable SELECT. When you boot up, insure that your BIOS is set to RECOGNISE both DRIVES on your primary IDE channel.

If it recognises in BIOS but not in Windows, you need to use drive administration (FDISK in Win9x and Drive Admin in XP/NT) to partition and format the empty drive.what operating system have you got ?and how old is this laptop?You should boot up to a boot disk and run FDISK and FORMAT.Forget all the posts above for the moment. What Operating System do you plan to install?Forget all the posts for a moment.....Why are you posting in a 5 year old topic?

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on September 14, 2009, 10:08:08 AM

Forget all the posts for a moment.....Why are you posting in a 5 year old topic?

Hiya;
I've recently aqquired 2 dell poweredge servers (dual 2.8 zeon 2gb ram ....) Is there any REASON not to USE these as desktop units? ( apart from that they're really noisy BS and should be kept as far away from civilization as possible). I've installed w2000 and ubuntu 9.04 on one and they both work - so far - apart from that they seem to hang SOMETIMES,so before I put too much time in installing progs & configuring I thought I'd ask if anyone has relevant experience.

Thanks,

Geoff Nothing wrong with that at all...congrats on the find ! !

My PC(Intel DG31PR Mobo,Intel DUAL core PROCESSOR 2x1 GB RAM ,400 W PSU) won't startup atleast until 5 minutes after it hasWe'll try to help but we needand also it wouldn't hurt if you

...I removed both ram sticks, Hard drive, wireless card, cmos battery and booted it up...

I don't understand. How did you boot it up, if you removed all that stuff?

I'm sorry I didn't mean I booted it up. I meant I powered it on to see if anything changes. I then put one item back and turned it on. THen put another item and turned it on and so on. I was trying to see if I can get an error code/beep or if it was one of the hardware was that was messed up.

Thanks for clearing that up for me. Just trying to figure out if it is hardware or software.
You said before:
-black screen, no a single text, letter or image shows up
-No option for entering setup or bios
...
Broadcom wireless card that failed 1 month ago (randomly boots back up)

This seems to indicate hardware is the issue. Definitely pull that Broadcom card first. There's a key to enter the BIOS, whether it shows up on the screen or not. As soon as you power on, keep tapping that key.

Just tried that. Nothing changes. The keyboard doesn't seem to be responding. I also plugged in another keyboard through all the USB ports and theres no power going to it.

I tried using the recovery disk. The dvd drive has a green light but nothing has changed.

Can it be a PSU problem? Or perhaps I fried my motherboard...

Quote from: Computer_Commando on September 13, 2009, 05:01:11 PM

Your problem is certainly unique. I have never, ever run across anything like it!

However, I have seen other power problems that cause very strange things to happen with computers, even BLOWING out ethernet ports.

What ELSE can it be but the power in your home? It works in the shop but not in your HOUSE. Take it to your neighbor's house and see if the problem persists. This won't RULE it out, a bad pole transformer can mess things up, too.

If you get a tester with the push button on top, it will also TEST all the GFCI protected outlets. You will eventually test every receptacle in the house. I'm betting, at least one is bad, even if not the one you are using is okay.

If all okay, then we move to Grouinding. Are you on broadband cable or DSL?

I had two pcs in my basment mine and my wifes tell a pipe bust and flooded out my basment so now im left with two damp computer and thay will not boot now. I live out in the contry and there are not any computer shops arond so i was wondering if you all have any advis for fixing it.Have you already tried to boot them?

How did you attempt to dry them?

Were they plugged in when they flooded?The best approach to do this is long slow controlled drying...
Move them onto an elevated surface and remove the cases...
Individually remove all components and spread them out.
Use a lint free cloth and some rubbing alcohol on all contact points on each component.

Have a fan or two blowing constant air on them for 2 to 3 days.

Carefully re-assemble all components and replace both power supplies and i wish you luck.Quote from: patio on September 14, 2009, 11:12:15 AM

The best approach to do this is long slow controlled drying...
Move them onto an elevated surface and remove the cases...
Individually remove all components and spread them out.
Use a lint free cloth and some rubbing alcohol on all contact points on each component.

Have a fan or two blowing constant air on them for 2 to 3 days.

Carefully re-assemble all components and replace both power supplies and i wish you luck.

How do I disasseble a hard drive?

You don't. patio did not say disassemble the hard drive; he said disassemble the computer.

You don't. patio did not say disassemble the hard drive; he said disassemble the computer.

Have someone who's done it before supervise you doing it...best way to learn.Quote from: jay1978 on September 14, 2009, 02:40:05 AM

I found a good 400V ...

I tried plugging in my cellphone headphones into my USB port on my DESKTOP pc, and got an overload message. However, I wasn't able to use my mouse or keyboard. I waited a while to see if anything would change and I unplugged it, but nothing happened. I then restarted my computer(USING the power BUTTON) and on startup I heard a loud beeping and it would not boot up. I'm sure I fried SOMETHING, but I'm not sure what to do.Had you used this connection before?I have never used these particular headphones on my pc, but I have used the USB ports.

My STEPMOTHER needed an ethernet card for her PC b/c she upgraded from dial-up to DSL. After I installed the card, the computer will not recognize the keyboard/mouse and THEREFORE I can not LOG in to set up her DRIVERS and dsl and such. I tried re-installing the old dial-up modem to see if that was the problem and it does nothing still. I am at a loss as to what to do next...please help.btw, both keyboard and mouse are usb...the PC has no P/S2 PORTS.

Toshiba A200-M00, Vista Home Premium, up to date. Laptop came with 1GB RAM. Bought 2 x 2Gb matching SODIMM and installed iaw manual, on booting system failed POST and locked in the Toshiba 'welcome' screen; no access to BIOS. Removed one stick, system booted, BIOS recognises correctly, checked second stick, same result. I expect 3 - 3.5 GB to be recognised by 32 BIT OS but am confounded by the POST failure given that both modules are OK and the system WORKS. Am I missing something or is it a serious problem? I'm still within warranty - just!

TVMThis is yours?
http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=Satellite%20A200-M00

It should work and function just the way you say. Send it back for warranty repair or replacement.

...Would doing a total scrap and resoring from the cds fix my problem? That option makes me really nervous...

I thought I was good to go. I did this, restarted and it said all my new hardware had been installed, but I had to restart for it to work. When I restarted....it was gone...ack.
...

My system crashes when I play 3d games. At an certain point in most games it just crashes and restarts my pc.
When I lower the resolution / details / shading most of the time I can play beyond that point in the game and undo the changes to resolution and play on.
I FIRST tought it was a problem with the drivers of my videocard or motherboard. But after a FRESH install of Windows with all the latest drivers the problem remains. By now I think the problem lies with my PSU. It is 4 years old whereas most a my pc has been UPGRADED since then.
Anyone any other tought on what the problem could be?

Specs
Antec Smartpower 2.0 500W
MSI P45 neo
Intel Core 2 Duo E6750
4 * 1G DDR2-800
Club 3d 8800GTS 512mb
3 * 7200RPM SATA harddisks
TV Card
DVD-player
DVD-burber

Before new install Vista 32bit now Windows 7 64 bitYkou have answered your own question.

The PSU is not BAD, but after four years it gets a lot of dust and crud in it and has to have a DEEP cleaning. It is overheating.

Or remove some of the hardware you do not need.

HI!
Ok well here's my problem, I have 3 hard drives, and one day when i booted my pc took 6 minutes instead of one to boot, moreover, one hard DRIVE wasn't detected, I turned my pc off, disconnected the hard drive, and when i booted again, my computer took the normal 1 minute. I tried changing the Sata cable, and i made shure my BIOS was set on auto detect, but i still can't detect my hard drive, and my computer still takes a long time to boot. Do you have any ideas?
Thank you!Does the drive show up in the BIOS when it's connected ? ?
Is there an OS on that drive ? ?
How old is it ? ?No the drive does not appear on the BIOS
There is no OS on the drive only media (about 400gigs of media >.< )
the drive is about 3 months oldQuote

the drive is about 3 months old

so you dont think ill be able to get my data back?

so you dont think ill be able to get my data back?

Hate to rain on anyone's parade but if the drive is not recocnised by the BIOS then it's dead...

A data recovery service would be your best bet...but be prepared to spend some cabbage...

I have a old compaq of SORTS think that its some kind of presto or something not too sure. Since I DONT know how to find the model since its not indicated on it, I was attempting to USE a ps/2 keyboard an adapter since it needs a usb one an ether of the two wouldnt light. I used a dell an e-machines? Any IDEA's? Its kind of been sitting around an I wanted too probably use it. Possible your CMOS battery needs to be replaced after sitting idle for a PERIOD of time.

If you can get to the desktop.....Click Start>Programs>Accessories>Accessability>On Screen Keyboard....see if that works

oops.Do you mean Compaq Presario notebook PC ?Its a tower of sorts, it posts but I cant say that there was a change in sheep am I the only one suddenly having flashbacks?which is what You've lost me here You've lost everybody. Start over, think carefully about what you want to say. Start typing, read it over twice before posting.Quote from: BC_Programmer on September 13, 2009, 09:23:29 AM

am I the only one suddenly having flashbacks?

so I should change the ram then?

am I the only one suddenly having flashbacks?

I have a custom build unit with this LOT in it

Win Power ATX 500 (max output 500WATTS)
SATA II Quad core Conroe Kentsfield PCI Express m/board with dual channel DDR 4oo/DDRII 667
4 x 2.33 MHz Intel processors
2 x 1GB RAM
ASUS EN9500GT nVidia GPU (upgraded 2 months AGO)
SAMSUNG 250GB Hard drive @ 7200rpm (200+ freespace)
OS Windows XP SP2
Monitor is a 19" AOC International 60/50Hz with 5ms response rate.

I press the power button and all fans etc come to life, the screen flickers and then flashes every 2s or so. It boots up fine (getting a blink of the usual boot up process in between the 2s of blackness)
What i have done so far;
Opened programs and run them (using the couple of milliseconds of viewing time to navigate with the mouse) (patients ) )
So I have taken out the RAM, cross checked them in each others slots, run them separately in either slot, with no change.
Taken out the GPU cleaned the contacts, made sure the slot was clear of dust to, refitted.... still no change.
Hibernated the system many times, this was successfull on three occasions, when following pressing the Hibe button, the screen went to the yellow box "No VIDEO Signal" (this has ONLY happened three times in two weeks!) when seeing this I pressed any key to bring the system out of HIBERNATION and all worked ok. Shut down as usual, only to find that it will not be visual on the next start up. Back to the 2s flash.
When in Hibernation the screen flashes every 4s or so.... and apart from the few times mentioned above; no messsage that it has fully gone into hibe??? any ideas of which way to go Guys? Last time this FLICKERING screen thing has happened to me it was the gpu. It could aslo be the monitor. Try a different monitor and see if it helps. If not get a different gpu

Hi,
I have an ATI All in Wonder 128 capture Card.
It records fine from TH video, tv etc. Sound and picture are perfect.
However, when i play back from hard drive or vcd that i`ve just recorded, it has a sort of hissing to the background.
I`ve tried lowering the volume but it doesnt make any difference - please help!
If anyone has recorded vcd`s from ATI 128, please tell me the SETTINGS you use!

Many thanks,

Lisatry a different driver if it winxp roll the driver back.... you can test sound by typing dxdiag in the run box...Im using intervideo dvd to record and playback on. Dont know how to roll back!!!fizzybubbly.....if your using win xp.....click start/control panel/system/select the hardware tab/then click device manager/...go to display adapter.....then click on your ati adapter listed there/when the properties box appears....click on driver tab........then select roll back driver

let US know if this does the trick...

dl65 try a different driver or just roll the driver back you can find them on the ati web site.Look at the DATE.Why do you keep resurrecting VERY dead threads? Not only that, your posts are all nonsense.sounds LIKE someone else...
[COUGH]smeeze[/cough]

Quote from: soybean on September 07, 2009, 09:48:05 AM

You're proposing to replace a motherboard and processor, and maybe a power supply, in a computer. So, how would using one of the other cases you have be too much effort? Can you not make to effort to remove and/or install a few other components if necessary?
If you put new or newer components in one of those OLD cases, then it wouldn't be a "slug pc", would it?

looks like a good match to me, should be plenty of power.


- and I believe the two links are the same product.

This is more of an annoyance than a real problem, but it has me stumped. I’m using Windows XP SP3.

I have a flash drive connected to a USB port through a USB cable. No problems. Now, if I plug my wife’s drive into the cable it locks up my MOUSE and I have to reboot. But here’s the kicker: if I plug her drive DIRECTLY into the port everything runs fine. I’ve tried a couple of DIFFERENT cables, with the same result.

Any idea what’s going on here?
This is not uncommon.
I assume "her drive" is an external USB hard drive.
Could be due to any or all of the following:
1. USB cable is not 2.0 compliant or has poor shielding.
2. USB cable is too long.

If it works by plugging it in directly, that's what you will have to do.Ooops. Sorry, I didn't give enough information. Both of the drives are thumb drives. My thumb drive works fine with the cable. Hers won't work with the cable, and I have to plug it directly into the USB port.Quote from: lburriss on September 16, 2009, 09:58:18 AM

Ooops. Sorry, I didn't give enough information. Both of the drives are thumb drives. My thumb drive works fine with the cable. Hers won't work with the cable, and I have to plug it directly into the USB port.

My friend is having a problem with her new LAPTOP that I can seem to figure out. She was complaining that her new HP g60-519wm laptop had a full hard drive already. I knew this couldn't possibly be true because it has something like a 240GB hard drive and she had barely used it. She brought it over and sure enough it showed only 7gb free on the main partition. I started looking thru it checking the size of each individual folder to try and pinpoint what was taking up the space until I reached a problem. Apparently C:\Users\Admin is taking up 178gb of space. But once inside the folder is basically EMPTY... No folder in that entire area is bigger than 75mb and all but one are empty. Huh? How is this possible? The trail goes COLD... I ran a hard drive check through the hp diagnostics thing in the cmos and it passed. Is there a fix to this other than restoring the computer? I'm sure there is a lot of info you guys might need to help answer this question that I'm not providing and for that I apologize, I just don't ever have to USE forums to find help often so I'm kinda rusty. But anything you need I'll try and provide if you ask for it. I appreciate any help or suggestions anyone can provide. Thanks. Quote

new HP g60-519wm laptop

You need to contact the store where you bought this.
Right away.
These are selling like hot cakes. You want a emplacement.

Can you view hidden files within that folder? Is she signing in using this particular account? Vista's administrator account is called... well, "administrator" not admin, so you could try deleting the account entirely, if it's not being used.

the problem was in a hidden folder for Azureus

A bit torrent client... Someone getting greedy... 178 GB!!!

my downloads folder is 317 GB...

I have a really annoying problem with my Creative SoundBlaster X-Fi eXtremeGamer PCI card

When it's used in my old computer, and I open the place where you can set the volume for each speaker connected (8 SLIDERS in total)



It works as it should...


When I use it in my never computer, and open the same window, I only have 2 sliders, which adjusts the volume for all speakers:



The problem is that the volume becomes to loud for some speakers, and too quiet for others, which ruins the sound

I have tried several times to REINSTALL the WHOLE thing, even on a clean WinXP install, and it still doesn't work on the newer PC

Any help could be appreciated..

Notes:

Note 1:
I only translated parts of the images

Note 2:
I might mixed the Center and Low Frequency Channels, If so: please tell me
Channel 7 and 8 is unused

Note 3:
Inside the "mixer" app from creative and in sound options (or what it's called, in the controlpanel) I have the correct settings, which is "5.1 Surround"

Note 4:
There is a soundcard on the motherboard, also, but it's disabled in BOIS

Note 5:
Overclocked CPU's works like a dream, so that shouldn't be a problem

Note 6:
I don't know if this has something to do with it, anyway:

Old PC Specs:
Code: [Select]CPU: AMD AthlonXP/Barton 2800+ @ 2.1 GHz (Overclocked from 2.084 GHz by manufactor)
Motherboard: Foxconn WinFast K7 Series
GFX: ATI x1650 PRO AGP
1GB RAM @ 667MhzDDR1
New PC Specs:
Code: [Select]CPU: AMD Athlon X2 3800+ @ 2.422 GHz (Overclocked 21 percent by me)
Motherboard: ASUS M2N
GFX: nVidia 6200LE PCI-e
2GB RAM @ 667Mhz DDR2
Both uses the same retail version of WinXP SP2

PS. There is an older topic posted several moths ago, about this problem and it feels wrong to reply to it, SINCE it has been so long time since it was posted (That's why I'm posting a new topic)You might try here
http://support.creative.com/kb/ShowArticle.aspx?url=http://203.211.142.197:80/srvs/cgi-bin/webcgi.exe/,/%3fst=480,e=0000000000856066104,k=2368,sxi=5,case=obj(47188),kb=ww_english_add,varset=ws:http://us.creative.comI tried that, and it makes no difference, except the sound changes..Try this here:

Start > Control Panel > Sounds and Audio Devices (classic view) > Near the bottom will be advanced, click it.

A new window will open with your speaker configuration on it. Make sure this is set to 5.1 Surround Sound Speakers.

If this doesn't help, are you using the original DRIVER disk that came with it?

Just last week I installed the latest drivers for my NVIDIA 9800GT card running in WIN XP. I have not had any problems until recently. As of yesterday, I can no longer do anything that requires 3D (games,screensavers). I can browse the internet or any general things without a hitch. As soon as I start a game or one of the 3D screensavers I have, the computer almost instantly freezes. The image on the screen does change every 10 seconds or so, but is incomplete. After about 30 seconds I get a BSOD, saying something about an infinite loop and THREAD_STUCK_IN_DEVICE_DRIVER. I have tried removing the drivers, and installing the previous ones with no success. I've even looked up about cleaning display drivers before installing new ones with no luck. There is no problem at all when using the GPU with WIN 7 that I have had installed on another partition for 2 months. It's only with XP all of a sudden. I'm really confused as to why this has stopped working just now with only XP and not 7. Any help WOULD greatly be appreciated.It's most likely you have installed the wrong driver...
From MSDN:

Quote

0x000000EA: THREAD_STUCK_IN_DEVICE_DRIVER
(Click to consult the online Win XP Resource Kit article.)
A device driver problem has caused the system to pause indefinitely (hang). Typically, this is caused by a display driver waiting for the video hardware to enter an idle state. This might indicate a hardware problem with the video adapter, or a faulty video driver.

I haven't located one yet, but what if the problem is still occurring after swapping PSU's? Isn't it possible that the motherboard could be the problem, or both? I ask this because the day before all this started, the weather was pretty bad with snow, wind, etc and the power fluctuated several times causing the PC to shut off once. I've read that brownouts and spikes can be damaging to a PSU, but what about the rest of the system?

Before upgrading to 195.62 I had been using 191.07 for sometime with no problem.

KMWDFILTER.sys

From what I can tell, this is part of a mouse driver. This is interesting because the mouse driver and the video driver do communicate a tad for information relating to the cursor. You could try removing any mouse software you have installed and see if using the default HID driver for the mouse appears to solve the issue entirely, as well.

I was wondering if it might be safe to attempt to use a small amplifier's speaker-out connection with a sound card's line-in jack if the amplifier's volume is set low, to no higher than 1/4 of the maximum volume to prevent clipping. Would this be safe for the sound card? I'm using a Sound BLASTER X-Fi, and I'm in the process of re-recording Karl Bohm's Beethoven symphony cycle from vinyl, and wanted to get better response in the lower frequencies, especially at the start of the 5th symphony's third movement. Using the line-out didn't give me a good result with that part of the box set, and I've wanted to make that part of the music more audible without having to crank up the volume.No, not recommended. If the level gets above a half volt the input circuitry can become damaged. Instead, use a "pad' made of resistors.
I use a tin box witrh potentiometers to keep the level in the millivolt range.
On just try two 1 Meg ohm resistors in the line in plug.
As for the loss of the low end, you may be using the wrong type of pre-amp for the pickup of the turntable. This is a common reason for low end loss.Due to your advice, I decided to put the CONNECTORS back on the tape-out jacks. I will not attempt to connect the sound card to the speaker-out jacks again. I guess I'll have to find a proper pre-amp instead then. I definitely want to protect the sound card.

Edit: I just checked the input after switching back to the tape-out, and I am GETTING great sound still. Thankfully I stopped before too much damage may have occurred. Would the input volume level have affected the number of volts? The input volume was so low that none of the recorded peaks got anywhere near the 0db mark.If the system was calibrated, 0 dbm means an defective voltage of 0.7 volts AC on a 600 ohm load. But I do not think it is calibrated.
Tape heads require a good preamp. They need bass boast. That is the way magnetic pickups work. Lower frequency, lower output. The standard settings for tape is NAB, but for a turntable it is RIAA.

http://www.electronics-lab.com/projects/audio/045/index.html

Do a Google on Tape Head Preamp.I have since changed my setup. Instead of the small amplifier I had been using, I decided to replace it with an amplifier that I had stored in my bedroom closet for a few years. However, this is a big amplifier that can be used with surround sound systems. I'm using the monitor output, instead of the tape-out. Is this output okay to use? I have the amplifier hooked up to a graphic equalizer, and then from the equalizer to the sound card. I'm not using the speaker outputs (I can't use them anyways as they're the wire input variety), and the equalizer cannot be used with the tape output jack.

The equalizer I have has seven frequency sliders for the left channel, and seven more sliders for the right channel. For both channels they are 60hz, 150hz, 400hz, 1khz, 2.4khz, 6khz and 15khz. I'm trying to increase the first three frequency settings and decrease the last three in an attempt to get the RIAA curve accurately. Would you be able to help me with this, Geek-9pm? Quote from: Ryan on September 16, 2009, 06:01:37 PM

I have since changed my setup. Instead of the small amplifier I had been using, I decided to replace it with an amplifier that I had stored in my bedroom closet for a few years. However, this is a big amplifier that can be used with surround sound systems. I'm using the monitor output, instead of the tape-out. Is this output okay to use? I have the amplifier hooked up to a graphic equalizer, and then from the equalizer to the sound card. I'm not using the speaker outputs (I can't use them anyways as they're the wire input variety), and the equalizer cannot be used with the tape output jack.

The equalizer I have has seven frequency sliders for the left channel, and seven more sliders for the right channel. For both channels they are 60hz, 150hz, 400hz, 1khz, 2.4khz, 6khz and 15khz. I'm trying to increase the first three frequency settings and decrease the last three in an attempt to get the RIAA curve accurately. The graphic equalizer is a Kenwood KE-205. Would you be able to help me with this, Geek-9pm?

I've looked at all the info given so far, and done a little basic research - I READ that Western Digital have a known fault that registers their hard DRIVE temperature up to 20ºC higher than it actually is; and when I installed the HD tune software, it told me that my hard drive was running at 68ºC which as I understand it is phenomenally hot. There is no way it was actually this temperature, because I doubt I'd be able to touch it let alone have it on my lap - so MIGHT it be reasonable to assume that the SMART event was SOMETHING to do with that?

On Wikipedia it mentions something about Airflow Temperature on Western Digital HD's being an 'attribute', and if the threshold was broken it would come up as a SMART event (as I understand it) though I have to admit that even reading this information twice through hasn't helped me work out if this was the case. For someone who only began using computers comparatively recently to most it seems a minefield, and though I think I pretty much understand the way it works, I'm no closer to working out what actually went wrong.

I ran the HD Tune error scan, and the entire thing came up clean with no errors or anomalies; so at present with reading about the factory fault in Western Digital HD's and with the clean bill of health from every diagnostic program I could find I'm slightly more confident about the situation.
I think I'm on the right track here, but any confirmation from someone a little more knowledgeable would be extremely welcome.

Cheers.

Addition: Quote from: patio on September 16, 2009, 05:51:21 PM

You can listen to what i stated or you can choose to ignore it...
It's up to you.
SMART warnings are rarely wrong.
You decide.

Is there any conflicts on using a new ATX PSU (Without Pin No.18 (-5V)) for PENTIUM 4 MOTHER BOARD? My old PSU has (-5V).. My computer shutdowns in an instant for 1-30mins of use..Please Help

I replace my old & out of range ATX PSU (3.3V defective) with a new ONE. When I've turned my PC it shutsdown in an instant from 1-30mins of used.

New ATX PSU: DAO KOREA BLACKHOLE 450W Ver.1.3 (http://www.openpinoy.com/shop/step1.php?number=1926&scode_mode=&sc_code=C20080719031842&sm_cdoe=)

Mother Board:
Manufacturer: Super Grace Electronics
Model: 848P-87X2
Chipset: i865/PE/G/1848 REV:A2
Southbridge:8280 IEB (ICH5)
BIOS: Phoenix Tech. LTD
Graphic: AGP VER.2

Processor:
INTEL (R) PENTIUM(R)4 2.6GHZ
FCmPGA478
P4N(NORTHWOOD)PENTIUM4(130nm 1.6-3)So, your computer shuts down "in an instant from 1-30mins of used", both before you changed the PSU and after, right? In other words, changing PSU made no difference, right?

I don't know what the problem is but I do know you have a very cheap PSU - assuming my currency conversion is CORRECT - there and cheap is not good when we're talking about a PSU.

Is the currency on that website Philippines Pesos? If so, 650 Philippines Pesos is about equal to $13.50. So, it's a very cheap PSU. I can't imagine buying a PSU for that price. To begin with, I can't imagine finding any new one at that price.

Are you located in the Phillipines? Do you have plenty of sources of better quality PSU's there?A $13.50 psu? I didnt even know they made them that cheap! Never skimp on power SUPPLIES. Sometimes, if they go they can TAKE everything else with it.
My OLD PSU - my computer wont start
My NEW PSU - my computer starts but after a while it shutdowns in an instant. longest time of use around 30 mins..

Physical observation : the Northbridge heatsink heats up fast same as my AGP video card.. I can't test my video card because my motherboard don't have video on board.


My new PSU is made from Korea, isn't it good brand? Please check their site DAO KOREA Products

My question is if there are no conflicts using a ATX power supply VER.1.3 in a Pentium4 Motherboard?

I appreciate all your comments.

Thanks
A $13.50 psu is not good... Thanks for your REPLY.. So the first step I should do is to buy a new PSU with good quality. ya

Are there any PROGRAMS like SPEED fan or cpuid for MONITORING POWER SUPPLIES output?

first of all wanted to thank you guys for helping with pretty much anything that comes up here =]

k so first thing, i was trying to connect a HDD (i have 2 units, one of them is bout 6 y/o the other about 2 y/o) to my unit (from the old one to the new one), it started up fine and everything but as soon as it got to the windows i couldnt use either my usb mouse and the keyboard for some reason, is it because the hdd is not compatible with my unit?
ive been thinking of INSTALLING a new windows there in order to recover what i can (since my old unit is pretty much done for), is there another solution??

another thing, im buying a new unit which obviously has different hardware then my current, is it necessary to reinstall windows so that it would work w/o any problems? (so that it would be compatible with the new hardware: cpu/graphic card/mb etc.. ?)?

thanks in advance
IdanP.MrYumYum,
By now you shroud know the rules.
You have to give use the details.
We can guess taht you put two HDDs on one cable ...
and windows has a hard time. -Right?
Some HDDs are not crtoss-campatible.
Try this:
POWER down, unhook the DRIVE you just put in,
make it share the cable with the CD-ROM drive.
Does that HELP?
If either/both these drives had Windows already installed on them from a different machine then it's probably not going to work...nor will some of your devices as you've discovered.
Best bet is a clean install of Windows on whichever one is newer...Quote from: Geek-9pm on January 11, 2010, 02:47:47 PM

MrYumYum,
By now you shroud know the rules.
You have to give use the details.
We can guess taht you put two HDDs on one cable ...
and windows has a hard time. -Right?
Some HDDs are not cross-campatible.
Try this:
Power down, unhook the drive you just put in,
make it share the cable with the CD-ROM drive.
Does that help?

If either/both these drives had Windows already installed on them from a different machine then it's probably not going to work...nor will some of your devices as you've discovered.
Best bet is a clean install of Windows on whichever one is newer...

My Hp 6310xi keeps printing the wrong pages. Even when I specify which page(s) I want printed, it still prints some other pages(s). I don't think it's in the computer, because I connect it up to a different computer, and it does the same thing!Not to insult your intelligence, but the first question I have to ask is are you sure you've installed the correct driver?Is this something "new" or has the printer always behaved this way?truenorthYes to the first question, no to the second question. I have several computers each with the software that came with the printer. Same results!Normally the type of issue you are having would be related to a user created parameter (at the time of creating a print job). However the fact that it persists through a variety of computers would tend to indicate a hardware issue. To ask the obvious have you tried on at least one of the computers to uninstall the printer (both hardware and software)? Then adhering precisely to the INSTALLATION manual reinstall the printer. Also would be a good time to peruse the manufacturers site for more recent drivers if any.truenorth
P.S. Just before i leave this post --perchance do you have more than one printer assigned to the computer(s) that this HP is assigned to?Do you mean is the printer is networked? No, each computer acts independently. So, I get the same results no matter which computer I hook it up to. Most computers have a shows the print thing that shows what print jobs are lined up. You can cancel the print job. But if you try a different computer, there shouldn't be anything in the print job. I was wondering if there was some way to reset the printer. HP charges $35 for tech support after the printer is out of warranty (bummer!)."Do you mean is the printer is networked?" No spock that is NOT what i meant. What i meant is on the various computers that you try to use this HP printer are there any other printers listed as installed (my computer/printers and faxes)?If so is the HP listed as the "default" printer? Generally speaking if a printer is out of warranty it is not worth it to repair it as a new replacement will usually be cheaper. However it is a bit premature to be doing that yet. What i was endeavoring to have you do by my earlier suggestions was to totally remove the HP printer from at least one of your computers (software and hardware) and then reinstall it as if it were a 1st time install. While doing that i also suggest seeing if there are more up to DATE drivers than when it was ORIGINALLY installed. But if there are do the update drivers AFTER the full install is complete as per your manual and software disc. Do NOT deviate one small iota from the manuals installation instructions.truenorthReinstalled software, checked for updates. Same thing.Something i should have asked earlier=Does this malfunction occur in ever print application that you try to perform or is it specific to certain types of printing tasks? IE: If you are using an office type program does it occur? If you are trying to print a web page does it occur? Open a browser and select from "file" "print/preferences". Is the option to print in reverse order checked (such as in a 4 page document it would print 4/3/2/1) instead of the other way around if not checked. Go through all the available print parameters from that route and see if something inappropriate is selected. I really have a hard problem with this being at the root of this problem because it happens on a variety of computers. Therefore changing the print parameters on one computer would not carry over to a COMPLETELY different computer.I still believe it is a hardware issue with the printer. But what it is a puzzlement. I am INCLUDING a web link for your printer in the hopes that it might help you. It is an HP site and should have the correct and very latest drivers for that printer plus manuals and trouble shooting guides.
http://search.hp.com/query.html?charset=iso-8859-1&hpvc=sitewide&la=en&qs=&lk=1&rf=0&uf=1&nh=10&st=1&qt=HP+Officejet+6310xi+All-in-One&ocoldqt=6310&oc=1120062
truenorth

i WOULD like to no is acer is a good computer brought me a acer laptop it a acer asper timelineX 5820t 6401 let me no if this a good laptop and i am getting hp envy 3D 17 let no if that a good laptop to. and i want to say hi to every one i am new here.Welcome to the CH forums. I hope that your presence here will be mutually rewarding.The time to ask your question is BEFORE you make your purchase. There are also sources on the web to get 3rd party reviews of almost anything. So rather than just obtain the OPINIONS of people who may or may not own one that would be a better way to go.Ultimately whether you feel it is a "good" computer will depend on what you bought it for and how well it will achieve those results for you. best of luck with it. truenorthHP makes good computers
Acer makes good computers.
But read this:
Quote

The Lenovo THINKPAD X201 is still OCCUPYING the #1 spot since October 2010
Most Popular Laptops for January 201