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I have a problem with the DVD drive on my Dell Inspiron 1525. If I PUT a disk in it, music or data, the computer does not recognize there is a disk there and comes up with "Please INSERT disc into drive E"
Device manager tells me, "This device is working properly".
I ran Dell diagnostics and it came up with "Error Code 0147. Error 2000-0147. Spindle Test Failed".

I tried removing the DVD drive and cleaning with compressed air. But same result.

Also, the DVD drive no longer opens by just pressing the switch. I have to put a pin in the SMALL hole next to the switch to release it.

Does this mean that I need a new DVD drive or is it something that can be rectified please?

Windows VISTA Home Basic
2.00 GB RAM
32 bit Operating SystemNew drive.Thank you, I think. My wallet is now crying!
Replacement DVD Drive ordered.New drive fitted. Problem solved. Thank you CC.Quote from: pantherman on January 06, 2012, 12:57:13 PM

...I ran Dell diagnostics and it came up with "Error Code 0147. Error 2000-0147. Spindle Test Failed"...

My power supply was burned so I bought a New one, when I turn the computer on the MOTHER board or BIOS do not detect the hard disks and CD ROM, I took the hard disk off to format it in other computer and reinstall windows, but I could not install windows I just format it I put the hard disk back in the computer, and I took of the BIOS Battery for a few seconds thinking the BIOS were the problem but this time when I turn the computer on appears a black SCREEN with the legend (Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot devise) this time I can not go into the BIOS to set it up CUSTOM, so I changed the Bios jumper to restar BIOS, this time I set the BIOS as Custom, I reboot the computer and a blue screen shows up with the Intel logo in it after a few seconds the black screens with the legend (Reboot and select proper boot device or insert boot media in selected boot devise) shows up again.
Could some one help me please.
I'm using a Intel desktop board D865GVHZ, Pentium 4, 2 hard disk 300GB, 512MB ram, BIOS BF86510A.86A.0075.P24.

Since you formatted the hard drive & have no bootable CD in the drive, you have no boot device. You need to enter the BIOS to SEE if the DRIVES are detected. F2 will get you there for your motherboard.
http://www.intel.com/p/en_US/support/highlights/dsktpboards/d865gvhz

After a newly added CD-RW drive was added to the COMPUTERS secondary IDE BUS in addition to the already existing CD ROM drive and now the computer will not recognize either one. Could the problem be both were set to master or both were set to slave? OS-Vista SP2Quote from: fly1600U on January 29, 2012, 03:13:44 PM

Could the problem be both were set to master or both were set to slave?

Hi,
I just uploaded that video on YouTube so you can see what's I'm talking about:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUlNncPN8bE

The screen is kind of fuzzy, and vibrating...

Windows couldn't boot, it GOT stuck into the BIOS. (The screen was doing the same thing)
I put another working HDD and installed Windows in it.
As you see it's the same thing.

The screen vibrates and does that at the very beginning when the power button is pressed.

I'm thinking a graphic card issue, and since it's integrated to the motherboard... Maybe motherboard replacement is needed.
The computer is a desktop HP pavilion, with Windows XP

does anyone seen this before? or have any suggestion?
Thank you for your HELP It could be the monitor, try it on another computer.tried it.
The screen is fine.
Plugged other computers on it, and works fine.
Plugged another GOOD monitor to that computer... and vibrates Check the connector on the motherboard. A dirty or bad connection will cause the problem described. It could be the onboard video chip or the RAM, onboard video shares the computer memory (RAM). Just trying to isolate the problem.I've had similar effect caused by a bad connection, i would check connections first and if possible try different oneOk I try... if it doesn't solve the problem, I just LEAVE it...
It's an old computer... =P

My Dad recently had me do a favor for him. He has one computer that connects to the internet through a cable modem. Computer A - an iMac from 2007.

He wants to also take his old PC and get internet on that as well. Computer B - A compaq PC that is at least 5 years old and runs Windows XP.

We have Comcast, and they were happy to send a router to us (a Netgear model that was a breeze to install). I installed the router with the cable model (Cisco 2100) on Computer A.

It is safe to say that computer B should be able to detect a wireless connection from the router, yes?

This is were my problem lies. Computer B doesn't detect it, and I'm beginning to wonder if the internal modem has wireless capabilities. It's running on Windows XP and the computer it at least 5 years old. It doesn't even say anything in setting up an internet connection about wireless.

I thought it would be a good idea to then hook the router and cable modem up to Computer B and let Computer A work off the wireless signal. He doesn't want to do this because our cable FEEDS from under the house and would require him to go in the crawl space, hook up a new connection, drill a hole and feed the cable through.

So then I thought, I could just upgrade the modem in his computer to a newer model. This is where I end up confused.

If I purchase just a regular modem, and hook it up to his computer via ethernet, will that modem detect the wireless connection? Can a regular cable modem detect wireless at all? My mac can detect wireless signals without being hooked up to the cable modem, which shows me that it's connection to wireless signals is because of it's intern modem, not the cable modem. Am I correct in this train of thought?

Im afraid of spending money on something and having it not work. And how would I upgrade an internal modem? I keep searching online for modems but they're all external modems!

Basically the only two options I have is for him to go under the house, feed another cable through and run the router off of Computer B, which is the scenario I favor. OR, I can replace the modem so that we don't have to change the router situation, which is what he favors.

These are the only options, he wont budge on any other solutions.

Any help?I'm just wondering when you said that your old PC can detect wireless connection and i READ you said yes. But it seems now it doesn't... It may be a sortware or hardware issue. First your internal modem(built-in?) or network set-up. Is your Win xp OS still working properly from your compaq PC? You may want to look also at your network connections thru my network places by clicking My Computer icon. And your device manager for your driver signing.There's a kind of muddled feeling to your explanation ot the issue you've encountered and so lets TRY to clarify the situation.
Can you tell us whether the PCs are desktops or laptops?
It appears that via comcast, you now have a wireless router set up with cable internet access, but what we havent really established is whether pc 'B' contains a wireless LAN adaptor. That PART is the key.
If it does have a wireless adaptor then we can diagnose from there, if it doesn't have, then there's your answer but I need to know that before progressing down that road.
If you want to 'wire' 'B' to the wireless router, you would use the LAN socket on the PC and a CAT5 cable to connect and not a 'modem'. You are basically setting up a 'simple wireless network'.
I think your confusion comes from this and you might want to replace 'modem' with 'wireless adaptor'.
You can buy wireless adaptors for desktops and laptops pretty cheaply and really there's no reason why your simple wireless network wouldn't work.
You might also want to make sure that the XP machine is upgraded to SP3 as the wireless configuration is MUCH easier.

I have a tomtom navigation deice that I want to connect to my computer, now it shows up in the "devices and printers" area but it is not recognized by my computer, it will be recognized by a windows xp but it does not show up in windows & I would appreciate any help I can get with this, I have been to the manufacturers website, talked to support and to no avail, so if anyone has any ideas I would like to hear them thanks Couples of things to check:

1. Is the TomTom fully charged. Sometimes if it is dead, then it wont be able to connect (although connecting should power, but there could be a USB problem, see 2.)

2.Try a different USB port. I know DELL gets dumb and puts USB 1.0 ports in the front, and 2.0 in the back. 1.0 does not support everything, and TomTom may require 2.0. So try all USB ports on the computer.

3. As simple as it sounds, MAKE SURE they are secure. Make sure the connection into the computer is good, as well as the cord going into the GPS.

I have SWITCHED usb ports it is fully charged, the thing is I don't understand is it shows up in the device manager but not in the "my computer" window computer doesn't "see" it in the "my computer" window like other drives, (tom tom has a disk drive) that is the quandry Have you installed the TomTom Home software?

Here is the link from the TomTom website:
http://www.tomtom.com/services/service.php?id=16&tab=87

yes it ALSO shows up as no device

Hi, The windows drive on my Pc is becoming full and I want to start installing software like games to a second drive. The question is will there be any slowdown in my games if I install them to a second SATA HD and will any part of the data from the software be installed on the windows HD? If there is any data installed on the windows drive how would I go about deleting it if I wanted to uninstall the software on the second drive? Thankyou!!Should not be a problem. But some free space on the first drive, system drive, for the operating system to work good. Don't let it GET to 90% full.Whether or not it will still install things on the system drive depends on the software and your settings.

Almost all software will install to another drive without a problem, but some programs (like certain games) will create settings and save files in the user's folder on the system drive, usually under "My Games", but depends on the game. This usually can't be changed. However, the location of the user's folders can be changed, therefore changing the location of where all programs that operate in this way save.Any program that stores user-specific data- things like high scores, preferences, settings, etc. should be storing them in the Application Data folder. This usually maps to a folder in the users profile folder. For example, on my system it maps to "C:\Users\BC_Programming\AppData\Roaming". Changing the location of the user profile will change the location of that folder, and I believe some tweak tools can be used to change individual folder mappings for a user, though how robust a solution that will be is another story. And there is of course registry settings which are stored in dat files in the user profile as well.

Usually an uninstaller will remove (and it is supposed to by convention) any registry keys or files it's corresponding installer created or added. However it will often leave behind user data (or occasionally, you will be prompted) on the premise that you are uninstalling the program, but not necessarily the data created with that program. Usually if this occurs you can remove the data by deleting the corresponding folder in %APPDATA%.Hi Crafty

Why do things the hard way. Why not image your old windows drive to the new larger drive and use the larger drive for the BOOT drive. Most harddrive manufactures SUPPLY software to do this. What is the make of your drives and I can suggest some software and advice of how to do this.



Lisa
Quote from: Techo on January 26, 2012, 08:24:44 PM

Hi Crafty

Why do things the hard way. Why not image your old windows drive to the new larger drive and use the larger drive for the boot drive. Most harddrive manufactures supply software to do this. What is the make of your drives and I can suggest some software and advice of how to do this.



Lisa

I am planning on building a gaming PC with a budget of around $900, I have chosen the Nvidia GeForce GTX 560 TI graphics card, Intel Core i5-2500K processor and the MSI P67A-GD55 motherboard. I am almost ready to purchase the components, I just have to choose which memory I am going to buy. Which of the below memory should I buy? Keeping in mind value for money and compatibility to the system I'm building. Here is the list of compatible memory for the motherboard: http://www.msi.com/file/test_report/TR10_2226.pdf
The first memory listed below is definitely on the list but the second ONE is only listed in 8GB (2x 4GB) version, does this mean the 4GB (2x 2GB) version is not compatible? The webpage for the memory on G.Skills website lists the motherboard on their Qualified Motherboards List. (See here: http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=222) Do I trust the list of compatible memory for the motherboard or compatible motherboards for the memory?

G.Skill F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ 4GB (2x 2GB)
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=13601

G.Skill F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL 4GB (2x 2GB)
www.mwave.com.au/sku-37140433-G_Skill_4GB_(2x_2GB)_Dual_Channel_Kit_PC3_12800_(1600MHz)_DDR3_240_pin_DIMM_Unbu

Thanks in advance.I would trust the list of compatible motherboards for the memory-look at MSI's statement:
Quote

The memory modules we list below are for reference only. Owing to massive memory modules SELLING on the market, we can only
verify some of them.

I have a Advent 8111 with 1gb ram, Intel 945gm (callstoga) + ICH7-M and a Intel core Due T2050 procesor

I BOUGHT a game and thought it would work but it keeps crashing my system. I dont know ENOUGH about computers to sort this out so my question is, what laptop will run this spec for a cheep price? Will only a Pentium 4 work or are there others?

Supported OS
: Windows® XP/Vista Only
Game comes on 1 DVD
Processor: 2GHz Pentium 4 or AMD Athlon (3GHz Pentium 4 or AMD Athlon recommended)
RAM: 1 GB (2 GB recommended)
Video Card: 128 MB RAM, DirectX 9–compliant, video card capable of rendering Pixel Shader 2.0 (256 MB RAM recommended) (see supported list*)
Sound Card: DirectX 9 –compliant sound card
DirectX Version: DirectX 9.0c or later (included on game disk)
DVD ROM DRIVE 4x or faster speed
Hard Drive Space: 6 GB
Anything over the recommended specs should work. You can even get away with specs below the recommended, but the play quality will not be good.

Which game did you buy? It does not seem to be that new, and most new laptops should be able to handle the game. However it seems that you have on-board video (Intel 945gm), which is only 128MB shared. I do believe that Intel 945GM runs dx9, but I could be mistaken.

The only thing that I can see is your video card is not good enough. If that were the case, sometimes the game will not allow you to open it. Some games will crash when you play it because the card gets too hot.


Describe the crash. What kind of crash is it? Does the screen turn blue with crazy mumbo jumbo jibberish telling you an error had occurred? Or does the computer just turn off or go blank? Does the laptop get really hot (like you would not want to put it on your lap)?

Such a good information it is.Laptop games 1 Dvd is god,
RAM is 1GB is well
thanks for sharing this informationThe specs listed match those listed by "Silent Hunter: Wolves of the pacific"
Is good but not very good 1 gb! In my opinion you should have at least 2 gb Ram because the technology had advanced very MUCH.

Hi all, hope someone can help. Here goes. I have a Dell DM051 that I was using a BELKIN KVM switch on. I removed the switch and connected everything back to the computer and everything appears to work fine except the mouse. When the computer starts up and gets to the windows XP log on screen, I cannot move the pointer over to my icon to select my user so that I can enter my password and continue. So, there I sit, on that BLUE XP log on screen, looking at the pointer that I can't move, beside the icon that I cannot select to continue. Any ideas?? And while I do APPRECIATE all help, please don't ask if the mouse is connected or stuff like that. I've tried several ideas from diffrent mouses to removing jumpers and batteries, etc. What I need is good advice from someone who knows computers. Thanks in advance, PhilYou can use the keyboard to do this. Don't be lazy, search on line for "operating XP with a keyboard" or something like that.TAB navigates amongst the various elements. Press tab until your username is HIGHLIGHT, then press enter, and then enter your password.

Of coruse this might not fix the mouse issue, but after it starts up you can try unplugging and plugging in the mouse (only if it's USB, not for a PS/2 mouse) and it might re-detect the mouse and install it. (this might occur after you log on anyway).

Quote from: Sodde on May 25, 2010, 06:13:10 PM

You can use the keyboard to do this. Don't be lazy, search on line for "operating XP with a keyboard" or something like that.

I am planning on building a gaming PC with a budget of around $900, I have chosen the Nvidia GeForce GTX 560 TI graphics card, Intel CORE i5-2500K processor and the MSI P67A-GD55 motherboard.

When looking at the specs for my CPU, I was intrigued to SEE that it said "Integrated GPU: Yes"
What does this mean exactly? The motherboard I am getting does not have on-board graphics, is this a problem?

Thanks in advance.Yes the Sandy BRIDGE processors all include an on-die GPU, which is the Intel HD 3000/HD 2000. Basically this is onboard graphics built-into the CPU instead of the motherboard.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4083/the-sandy-bridge-review-intel-core-i7-2600k-i5-2500k-core-i3-2100-tested/


You'll be adding a far more powerful discrete graphics card and you'll have no use for the on-die GPU. You can't even use the on-die GPU as your motherboard doesn't even have a built-in video output.

I have a Fujistu laptop with Windows 7 home premium with an i3 processor. This my personal laptop which I want to INSTALL Windows Server 2008 as a dual boot system for my server class at college. When I try to install Server 2008 I get the message(Not enough space for temporary files). I have a 500 gigabyte hard drive. It has 5 different sections. C 150 GB free, D 214 GB free and F 9.75 GB free. One of the other sections is the recovery partition. The last one has only 250 MB capacity with 214 MB free. I didn't create this section. I read on the internet the installation disk for Server 2008 was looking at this section. C drive is where my OS is. Does anyone have a solution?Empty the D: partition...and try again...
When you run setup POINT it to D:
Warning:...mess up this step and you may bugger your Win7 installI don't get to the point where it asks me where I want the software.http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows7/Create-a-boot-partition
Windows 7 allows a maximum of 4 primary partitions.I solved the problem of (Not enough space for temporary files). It only sees the 250 mega byte section when I open the contents of the cd. I run the setup.exe file. If I turn the computer off and restart I don't get the error message. Per Patio's instructions I EMPTIED the D section and reformatted. When the install ask me where I want to put it the D section doesn't show up on the list. My C drive and the 250 mega byte are on the list. As per Commandos instructions since there was already 2 sections not used I didn't think I needed to create a new one. Of course being a novice I may be wrong. Any suggestions on how I can get the other sections to show up on the list?Right clik D: in Disk Management and set it as active...It does not give me the option of making it active. I noticed my whole drive is a dynamic volume. WOULD that make a difference.

I copied this from a MS article.
The dynamic disk MBR layout looks very similar to the basic disk MBR layout, except that only one primary partition is allowed (referred to as the LDM partition), no extended partitioning is allowed, and there is a hidden partition at the end of the disk for the LDM database. For more information on the LDM, see the Dynamic Disks sectionI think that's the problem. Not sure if it can be converted to Basic volume from Win7 or need to use 3rd party such as Easeus.
http://www.partition-tool.com/personal.htm
Yes, it will do it: http://www.partition-tool.com/easeus-partition-manager/convert-dynamic-disk-to-basic-disk.htm

Read more here, it's not free:
http://www.dynamic-disk.com/windows-7-convert-dynamic-disk-to-basic.html

How did this laptop get dynamic volumes?

See this thread & post #7 in particular which indicates that install should be no problem on basic volumes:
http://www.sevenforums.com/installation-setup/207416-dual-booting-windows-7-home-basic-x64-server-2008-r2-without-vhd.html
I bought it at a pawn shop just like it is.No wonder you are having so much trouble.

This will work for free: http://www.partition-tool.com/easeus-partition-manager/convert-dynamic-disk-to-basic-disk.htm

Read it all very carefully or you will have an inoperable laptop.

I would image the whole thing first, in case this fails, If successful, image the "new" drive. Hope you have a large USB drive for the images. Use Macrium Reflect (free). http://www.macrium.com/reflectfree.aspx

Thanks for every ones help. Changing to Basic disk should fix my problem.Quote from: Little Marine on January 10, 2012, 06:21:00 PM

I bought it at a pawn shop just like it is.

my new Hitachi 1tB usb2 drive and WD 500 GB will not be recognized by Windows XP Home.
In both cases installation SOFTWARE is requested by the system.
In both cases I get the inf data is incorrect.
When I start the computer with the Hitachi connected, the system stopped in the "Set Up"and can not proceed.
In that case I have to disconnect the disk and restart.
Computerstore have no idea.
Is there any help?
Forgot to inform that both are direct, after CONNECTION to 4 other computers with Windows XP home, recognized and operabel.
Do you know if the system to which you are connecting supports usb2?the all have Windows XP Home just LIKE I have and support USB2Are the usb ports in the system usb2?
And did the drives come with installation software??I can not find this indication. Where is this to be find http://ask-leo.com/how_can_i_tell_if_i_have_usb_20.html I found the following info:
Standard Enhanced PCI USB controller
Standard open HCD USB controller
,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,,
,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,,
USB medium for mass storage
USB Main hub
,, ,, ,, ,, ,,
,, ,, ,, ,, ,,

First problem, for some REASON the laptop wont shut down or sleep correctly. if you put it on sleep the laptop screen turns off as normal and shortly followed by the HDD turning off and the indicator going off but the power light stays on solid and also the fan continues to run. If you leave it on this for about 45 minutes it will display a blue screen saying Driver power state failure.

The next problem is that the other day it gave up on loading videos, images, and some text on websites. It also wont download anything either. I have upgraded to the latest java, as well has i think it has the latest flash as well. Sort of things it does: Type something into google images for instance 'building' and it will say 'no results for building' youtube videos are just blank. The mini images of the videos dont even show on the main PAGE. Some flash content works such as games, but others dont. The computer wont command to INSTALLING - you press the install button on a page, and nothing happens at all.

I dont believe this could be and virus, as the computer has been RESTORED less than a day before this started happening (2nd problem only, first has always happened) and after it had been restored and restarted, all the WEB content was working properly.
This is a windows 7 machine with the latest i3

Which of these optical drives should I BUY? Are they compatible with the MSI P67A-GD55 (B3) motherboard?

http://tinyurl.com/7yp6b5d
http://tinyurl.com/6nxfndk

Thanks in advance.No need to DOUBLE Post...

Topic Closed.

I am planning on buying an MSI P67A-GD55 (B3) motherboard and I NOTICED it has a serial port header onboard. I would LIKE to know where I wan buy an adapter to UTILISE this header. I searched it up and found this: http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat_id=3543&sku=28300
But that is just for Intel motherboards. Does anyone know where I can get one for my motherboard? You can get those in the form of PCI cards or USB dongles as well. It will work if the Intel & MSI mobo pinouts are the same. You'll have to do some homework.What are you gonna run off the serial port ? ?

So I have a hundred bucks that I have earned through selling and fixing old computers and I was wondering what the best bet would be for putting it into my media PC/Stuff I dont wanna do on my good PC. Here is what I have now. I assume a better CPU would be best, but would windows 7 be a better investment? Nothing is overclocked but it might be something I look into.
Thanks for the input.

AMD Sempron 145 Processor
- Single core
- 2.8GHz 45W
- L1 Cache 64KB+64KB, L2 Cache 1Mb

Biostar MCP6P3 Board
- NVIDIA GeForce 6150 GPU, On Board Graphic Max. Memory Share Up to 512MB(Under OS By Turbo Cache)
- 4 x SATA2 3Gb/s Connector
- Realtek ALC662 6-Channel HD Audio
- 2 x DDR3 DIMM Memory Slot
- AM3 socket

Geil DDR3 2G Memory
- 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666)

Orion HP585D 585W Max Power Supply

Gigabyte GV-R435OC-512I
- ATI Radeon HD 4350 GPU
- 650Mhz
- 64 Bit
- GDDR2 512Mb
- HDMI output

HDD's
- 40G (OS and Few programs)
- 150GB (Media)
- 150GB (Media)

I have another 4GB stick of RAM, but the system is only RUNNING XP SP3 so I cannot go over 3 GB at the moment.The processor and the hard drive you have your operating system installed on are probably the largest bottlenecks.Definately the processor would be first. You can get some decent triple core/quad-core processors for around $100 - which would be much more efficient than your single core. Make sure you get one your motherboard can handle though. You'd probably find one that a 64-bit OS can run on as well, and your next upgrade can then be to Windows 7 64-bit. With that you can use your 6GB of RAM, so that's two birds with one stone right there.Quote from: Raptor on January 26, 2012, 11:58:46 AM

The processor and the hard drive you have your operating system installed on are probably the largest bottlenecks.

Hi folks,
I was working on my pc the other day when it kind of locked up on me. No combo of key strokes could resolve it, so I was forced to do a hard reboot by pressing and holding the power button until it shut off. When I HIT power to bring it back up, I saw the Dell splash screen with the options for F2 (setup) and F12(boot menu), then i recived the following messages:

SATA primary hard disk drive 1 failure
Srike the F1 key to continue, key to run the setup utility

(hit F1)

A disk read error occurred press CTR + alt + delete to restart

(RESTARTED)

Drive 0 not found: Serial ATA. SATA- 0
Srtike f1 key to continue, f2 to run setup

(Hit F1)

BootMGR is missing Press CTRL + ALT + Delete to restart

Not sure what to do. Its a new computer, and i havn't installed any software or visited any sites sites that i havn't gone to a million times on my old crappy laptop.

Help?
QUOTE from: MatLH on January 29, 2012, 01:09:21 PM

Its a new computer

I would simply like to know if this optical drive is compatible with my motherboard.

This is the optical drive I am planning to GET: http://www.techbuy.com.au/product.asp?prodId=168462&catId=DVDROM&parentId=DVDROM_DVD_WRITERS

And the motherboard is an MSI P67A-GD55 (B3)

Thanks in advance.I wouldn't buy that one, specs are conflicting. One place says SATA, others say EIDE / ATAPI. If vendor doesn't know, shop elsewhere.Well I am actually buying from here: http://www.mwave.com.au/sku-17040381-Samsung_SH_222AB_BEBS_Internal_22x_DVD_Burner_SATA_OEM_Black

No conflicts on that page. Is it ok to buy from their? Is the drive compatible with my motherboard?Of course there is always a certain risk from buying online, even from reputable dealers-you don't get to see the product before you buy it, there may be damages caused by shipping, etc.
http://www.samsung.com/ca/consumer/office/optical-disk-drives/optical-disk-drives/SH-222AB/RSBS/index.idx?pagetype=prd_detail&tab=support
The official Samsung product page says "SATA."

There is a cheaper LG alternative:
http://www.mwave.com.au/sku-17040310-LG_GH22NS50_DVD_Burner_22X_DVD+R_8X_DVD+RW_22X_DVD_R_16X_DVD_ROM_48X_CD_ROM_SATASo they are both compatible with my motherboard?Optical drives are Universal...there are no compatibility issues...unless it's and old dinosaur PC or drive...Ok thanks, so which optical drive should I buy? The LG one or the Samsung one? Is it worth the extra couple of bucks for the Samsung one?The LG (the lesser cost one) indicates it is capable of DUAL layer and the Samsung does not indicate that feature so there is an additional advantage to the LG. HOWEVER now that we are talking about a yet to be made purchase (hoping not to confuse you further) why not consider an external drive as it will only be minimally more costly than an internal and will give you the advantage of portability and you COULD use it on multiple computers. That would be the way i would go (and have gone in fact). truenorth The drive is for a friend so it has to be internal. I think the Samsung one also has dual layer support, so considering that, which one should I get now?Time for YOU to decide,we have gone as far as we can on this horse.truenorthBoth brands are O.K. Nothing special but not bad either.Neigh,,,,whinney... truenorth

I have a laptop with no EXPRESS card slot. Is there anyway i can get a external express card slot to connect to my laptop ... it can be in a usb formIf this is something you are seriously contemplating due to a need it appears that you will need to do a SUBSTANTIAL bank withdrawal first.
http://www.mypccase.com/pcexbox.html
Unless there are cheaper alternatives it occurs to me that you can PURCHASE a COMPUTER with internal PCIe cards less expensively than this.truenorth http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-CardBus-ExpressCard-Adapter-EC2CBU/dp/B001OC5IKA

I voted...I believe i see a trend developing in the voting truenorth

Hi guys,
I am building my FIRST gaming pc and so far I have the ASUS NVIDIA GTX 560 TI, my Coolermaster storm scout case and my 650 watt power supply, it is not modular but I just use splitters.

I am thinking of getting these:
Motherboard: Asus P8P67 VERSION 3 Socket LGA1155 Motherboard
Processor: Intel i5 2500k quad core
RAM: 8GB Corsair Dominator DDR3 (they are doing an AMAZING deal on Amazon where it is cut from £311, or should I just GET the vengeance 8gb ones which are £45, reduced from £111)

Will this all work and also Coolermaster Hyper 212 plus or akasa venom CPU cooler?

QUESTIONS: 8GB vengeance RAM or dominator RAM, Coolermaster Hyper 212 plus or akasa venom CPU cooler and will it all work.
Thanks in advance.

-Inkin
I also forgot to mention, I have a 300GB HDD, what HDD do you recommend getting in the future?
I have thought about the WD black caviar 1TB or the green caviar one.
Also try to dumb it down a bit, not to much but a bit, I am only 14.Go for Black Caviar, it's faster.What about the other questions, also I knew the black caviar was faster I just wanted to know if it was worth it.If your going to go to this much trouble might be worth considering buying two or more smaller drives and running a raid array, from my experience i would have to SAY i wasn't overly impressed with the performance increase, but its a good learning experience. With the prices of HDD right now. Maybe a SSD would be good. Just run to run your OS off of. Pretty big performance upgrade.

i have a disc with microsoft office & password, i loaded it on my XP laptop, works FINE, did try to down load on my windows 7, does not see the disc when try to load any thoughts on that., thanks
Based on your other POST I'm guessing this is not a legitimate version of Office. And even if it were, your license would not permit multiple installs. Please stop posting about this or we will have to take action on your account at this site. Thank you.sorry about that

Yes it shuts down only in those 2 situations.

I am not sure why would a RAM stick would shutdown a PC for any software. Clearly I have run spybot or flash videos with 512 RAM in Win XP but have not seen or experience this shutdown.

I need some suggestions for programs that will take my CPU and GPU to maximum load and hold them there. Now this may sound a little strange but I want to disprove that I am in some way overloading the 12V rail of my power SUPPLY. There should be no way that I am exceeding the limit but I would be happier if I could rule it out.

[Parent thread: Reboot Madness]

I should have the best CPU stress test software saved... but unfortunately I can't remember it's name and well my hard drive is a mess CPU = Prime
GPU = FurMark.IntelBurnTest for your CPU: http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/Benchmarks/IntelBurnTest.shtml Run it on STANDARD, 1024MB, for 10 passes. If your system gets UNSTABLE in the process it will tell you. It puts a greater load on the CPU than Prime95 or Orthos: http://majorgeeks.com/IntelBurnTest_d5987.html and http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?197835-IntelBurnTest-The-new-stress-testing-program
8 Mins Linpack = 24 Hours Prime95.

System ran stably...

Just about the only way that I can reproduce the the problem with any guarantee is to play skyrim and stand somewhere that it snows...

Seriously, the RAM is fine, the GPU is fine, the CPU is fine, the temperatures are fine, the OS is fine, the PSU is fine. What is wrong with this machine?

Why does this thing keep rebooting? Bug in Skyrim? That would be an impressive bug considering that I've had this problem long before I owned Skyrim and infact before it was released.How did you determine the RAM is fine ? ?Quote from: Accessless on January 10, 2012, 11:23:54 AM

That would be an impressive bug considering that I've had this problem long before I owned Skyrim and infact before it was released.

Ah, I misread. I thought it happened when you made snow-angels in Skyrim.

So what's the temperature at when it reboots?

How did you determine the RAM is fine ? ?

unless the power supply was overheating and becoming unstable but you tend to notice the unmistakable smell of burning plastic during these events.

Tried updating all your drivers?

When I took my exam that was NOT one of the right answers for determining Power Supply performance.

Too many to RECOMMEND just none.
http://livecdlist.com/
Here are three:
KnoppiXMAME
Mint
Puppy Live CD

Where can I get it ?

http://www.ubuntu.com/download/ubuntu/download

Pick the "Live" option when booting from the CD.

I don't know if any of the other distributions have the disk management feature that'll let you read the definitive S.M.A.R.T status.

if you use a 64-bit kernel with a 32-bit processor, it'll refuse to load.

The other way around should work just fine.

if you use a 64-bit kernel with a 32-bit processor, it'll refuse to load.
The other way around should work just fine.

Nominated for post of the month.

I am wanting to know I bought a USB 2.0 PCI card for my computer when I went to put it in and I turned the computer on it will now even boot up it won't even show the screen at all it just stays black but the computer comes on.
When I take it back out the computer boots up fine.
This computer already has USB ports on it but they are not USB 2.0 ports.
It has Windows XP in it with 112 MB of memory with a 10GB hard drive.
Please if somebody could tell me what the problem is or what I can do to fix it?Return the card for a replacement...Plan on adding some memory too! That's a pretty low amount of RAM for XP.Quote from: rthompson80819 on May 23, 2010, 10:25:31 AM

Plan on adding some memory too! That's a pretty low amount of RAM for XP.

I am wanting to know I bought a USB 2.0 PCI card for my computer when I went to put it in and I turned the computer on it will now even boot up it won't even show the screen at all it just stays black but the computer comes on.
When I take it back out the computer boots up fine.
This computer already has USB ports on it but they are not USB 2.0 ports.
It has Windows XP in it with 112 MB of memory with a 10GB hard drive.
Please if somebody could tell me what the problem is or what I can do to fix it?

Return the card for a replacement...

I had an .avi file and a Word document on a USB FLASH drive. I plugged the flash drive into the USB port in my laptop. When I tried to open the Word document, a dialogue box opened asking me if I wanted to have file fixed. At first I clicked on "no" but when I tried to open document I got the same dialogue box - so I clicked "yes." After a few moments there was a positive message saying the problem was fixed, HOWEVER, the document disappeared!! It was no longer on the flash drive. It just disappeared into thin air. I downloaded and tried a data RETREIVAL program (BadCopy) but nothing SHOWED up. Is there any other POSSIBILITIES to retrieve the document?Try Recuva...Unfortunately the result was that the file was "unrecoverable". I started from SCRATCH. Thanks for the help.

i need a new printer. any ideas, apart from HP, which have the printhead in the CARTRIDGE instead of the printer itself please. I was sort of surprised by Canon the last time I was asked to install a printer. It had a wireless feature that actually worked.

HP is the superior manufacturer, though. I rarely have trouble with HP machines. It's always Brother, Cannon and the other brands that cause the most problems for me.
For your guidance:
DISPOSABLE head
The disposable head philosophy uses a print head which is supplied as a part of a replaceable ink cartridge. Every time a cartridge is exhausted, the entire cartridge and print head are replaced with a new one. This adds to the cost of consumables and makes it more difficult to manufacture a high-precision head at a reasonable cost, but also means that a damaged or clogged print head is only a minor problem: the user can simply buy a new cartridge. Hewlett-Packard has traditionally favoured the disposable print head, as did Canon in its early models. This type of construction can also be seen as an effort by printer manufacturers to stem third party ink cartridge assembly replacements, as these would-be suppliers don't have the ability to manufacture specialized print heads.
An intermediate method does exist: a disposable ink tank connected to a disposable head, which is replaced infrequently (perhaps every tenth ink tank or so). Most high-volume Hewlett-Packard inkjet printers use this SETUP, with the disposable print heads used on lower volume models. A similar approach is used by KODAK, where the printhead intended for permanent use is nevertheless inexpensive and can be replaced by the user. Canon now uses (in most models) replaceable print heads which are designed to last the life of the printer, but can be replaced by the user if they should become clogged. For Canon models with "Think Tank" technology, the ink tanks are separate for each ink color.
truenorth
P.S. CREDIT for the above to Wikapedia

The sounds of various types of MUSIC files on my windows 7, Realtek AC ' 97, are played normally, on any player, with good QUALITY. However, they feature noise, as if they were SCRATCHED when they are played in Windows MEDIA Center. Would REQUIRE some codec?Have you checked for any viable Windows or driver updates?

I RECENTLY purchased a new computer and I'm ready to install a graphics card. I want help deciding what card will compliment my machine the best. I mainly want to run the newest PC games WITHOUT having to turn down the graphics and am not really concerned with the price.

Windows 7 64bit OS
Processor-- Intel Core i5-2500K (3.30Hz)
Motherboard-- Asus P8H61-m
8 GB DDR3 RAM
WD 1TB SATA HD

Thanks Nvidia and Intel work well together, so that would be my first thought. Secondly, are you able to SLI two cards in the future, or are you able to support just one with your motherboard? It's not a big deal in picking a first card, but in the future when upgrading you'll want to keep that in mind. Often two SLI cards down the road can match the capacity of one very nice card, so you can save some money on upgrades.

That being said, I hear the Nvidia 560 is a good one to have for today's games. They also have the 580 and 590, which are better, but also much more expensive right now. I would shop around on a site such as newegg and compare prices on 560's. Find one that you like and has good reviews.

Also pay attention to how the cooling works on the card and how your case is set up. Proper airflow is key to running a good graphics card. Some blow out the back of the card, and others directly into the case. Finally check and MAKE sure your power supply is good enough to handle the card. The 560 will require (with everything else you're running) a 650W or better supply.Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my questions
im looking at the box for my motherboard right now and it says i have...
1 x PCI Express 2.0 x 16 Slot
2 x PCI Express 2.0 x 1 Slots
1 x PCI Slot

All chineese to me lol

Ive already accepted that ill have to replace my power supply that i purchased on christmas eve lol

I dont Mind spending the extra bucks for more high end products as im in the belief that quality comes with a price.Graphics cards will use the PCI Express x 16 port, so it looks like you have one slot. This means you cannot run SLI, but you can have one decent graphics card. Most of todays games should run at high settings on a 560, with PERHAPS some extremely power hungry games requiring you to have to turn down some shadows or smoothing of edges to get the best framerate - but the changes will not at all affect gameplay.

The difference between the 560 and the 580/590 is about $200 and while they are about 20% more powerful than a 560, the average game will not be built to utilize that power for a while yet. You'd also need to consider the better cards do require more power and generate more heat. I am running a single Radeon 6850, which isn't as powerful as the 560, and I am still able to play games like Dirt 3 and, Battlefield 3, and Skyrim just fine.

Hi All,
A friend of mind has a gateway DX4300 that hangs up. The hard DRIVE just keeps running at max SPEED which makes the machine hang. After about 4 mins it clears up and runs normally for about 10 mins and then the drive goes off again and the system hangs. It doesn't matter what you’re doing with the machine...surfing the web or email....etc...

The machine is stock. I thought malware so I did a full wipe of the machine USING the gateway restore disks (format reload OS win 7) and this didn't change anything. Even before it was on the internet it was repeating the hanging stuff. At this point I am thinking a BAD hard drive. I was wondering if anyone had any other ideas as to why this machine would be doing this.

It is running Win7

Thanks
I'd RUN the Free diagnostics from the HDD manuf. site...
If you can also swap another PSU in there to see if it does the same thing.

Hi guys!

I'd like to re-open the issue of my friend's laptop about the BSoD. Here are the details that I found:

Problem: IRQL_NO_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Tech info:
***STOP: 0x0000000A(0xFF1711F2,0x00000002,0x00000000,0x804D9B64)
Some observation that I encountered:
- the BSoD also indicate about the software/hardware issue but it does'nt identify what specific hardware or software problem
- I asked my friend what he has done before the BSoD happened, he told me that he defragged and scanned w/ virus scanner (Avast) his laptop.
- Even the safe mode does'nt work.
- USB type WLAN works, with no BSoD
- But the most puzzling to me is when I tried to switch on the built-in wireless connectivity, (located at the lower right side of the laptop and as I REMEMBER Realtek Ethernet is the name) the BSoD flashed on the screen.

So with these information, I hope I can help my friend to save his laptop. His laptop is Toshiba and he is using Win XP service pack 3. I'd like to know guys if what's the meaning/or how to decode the technical info that I have. By the way, is dxdiag,msinfo32 and the task manager can help me out to find the specific software/hardware problem? So that I can troubleshoot it properly? I'm also a newbie here and a learner, I hope the gurus and experts share their wit prowess to us...
1) That message is often indicative of corrupt, damaged or conflicting drivers. The first troubleshooting step is to update all key drivers (video, AUDIO, nic, etc). Also check for a bios update.

2) That blue screen error often lists a specific file the points to the offending driver. Please post the ENTIRE blue screen error.thanks sir for your advise. i'll post the entire bluescreen CONTENT on FRIDAY. Download BlueScreenView
No installation required.
Double click on BlueScreenView.exe file to run the program.
When scanning is done, go Edit>Select All.
Go File>Save Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt.
Open BSOD.txt in NOTEPAD, copy all content, and paste it into your next reply.

I have a CPU and no monitor for it, I want to use my laptop as a monitor for this CPU, I have ATTACHED a monitor cable from the CPU to the laptop, don't how how to GO from thereUnfortunately I dont think there is any way you will be able to do that...unless you use something like remote desktop to the tower from the laptop. This will work, but you wont be able to PLAY any games or anything like that, because it does not support direct3d or OPENGL

Quote from: Computer_Commando on January 12, 2012, 04:00:43 PM

No. Try 2-part epoxy, i.e. Devcon or equivalent.

...I strongly recommend you also pick up q-tips for precision application purposes!

Toothpicks work better.

I often connect my laptop directly to one of my new HDTVs with an HDMI cable in order to get a much bigger picture and BETTER sound on the big screen. We have a new 55" Toshiba LED HDTV. When connecting my PC to it with the HDMI cable, I had to use the TV's remote to select the picture size FULL. That way I am able to get a full screen picture.

However, I am having difficulty doing the same thing when connecting to our 42" LG LCD. It doesn't give me the same options when using the TV's remote. It has an "aspect ratio" option that comes up on the screen when I select the Q.MENU on the remote. It opens a BOX with the following options:

16:9, Just Scan, Set By Program, 4:3, Zoom, and Cinema Zoom 1. The zoom option will only increase the size of the screen up and down but not sideways.

Can anyone suggest a simple way to utilize my HDMI connection so that I can enjoy my full screen when connected to my PC. One other PROBLEM I tend to have is that when connected with our 55" LED TV, my PC screen often shrinks and I lose some of the picture on it.

Thanks...Quote from: hockeysticks on January 11, 2012, 11:45:27 PM

...16:9, Just Scan, Set By Program, 4:3, Zoom, and Cinema Zoom 1. The zoom option will only increase the size of the screen up and down but not sideways....

Yeah, we're not really a search machine....

I am not a techie and have searched high and wide for a desktop or Laptop with 4GB Memory and a Nvidia Geforce graphics card for under £400.
If anyone can help It would be most appreciated.

Thanks

the problem is: I have a old laptop computer that has WIRELESS unfortunately th wireless that is installed is not the standard that is compatible with my router which is 801.xxx so I cannot use this computer with my wireless router, now I want to connect wirelessly with my router, is there any kind of adapter that will work with linux and my new standard router? I have a medion laptop 1 gig ram ubuntu linux intel processer What is the brand and model of your router?

What is the model of your Medion?

Which version of Ubuntu are you using? belkin 150 basic, medion mlm2040, 11.10 ubuntu (latest) sorry for late replyJust use a USB dongle that's known to work with Ubuntu? Quote from: RECE on January 10, 2012, 03:28:45 PM

belkin 150 basic, medion mlm2040

hello i just bought a new video card ( 250 GTS 1GB ) and it has 3 outputs ... one DVI one AVG and one HDMI,
i CONNECTED my monitor to the DVI and my TV to the HDMI, The connector going from the comp to the TV is a HDMI to HDMI,.
for some reason i cant get my video card to register the TV. i tried the display config in the Video cards control PANEL and nothing.
any advice on how i can get the video card to identify the TV.You have probably have tried it already, but I've got to ask, have you used the TV remote to change the input to HDMI?yes Ive tried the TV and the signal doesn't show up. i have used the TV before with a different video cardwell, to get the basic things out of the way:

have you tried plugging the tv in while on and restarting the pc? i've had a similar PROBLEM with my 2 monitors and a restart helped.

have you installed all the latest drivers and such? if you have you could try using a different driver to see if that works.

if possible, you could also try a different tv. i downloaded latest drivers, i set it to detect on start up and i restarted it.
Now it shows my TV as a display but says the display does NOT support HDCP.
I think my TV is a bit to old for my new video card.

i looked up the bench mark test and it shows that the GTS 250 is barley better than a 9800 GTX( my old card that would display on my TV) so i think ill just switch my video cards.i'm not a big tv guy, but a quick wiki search found me this: HDCP's purpose is to prevent users from accessing high definition content during transmission from a source device to a display device.

in other words, its preventing your tv from receiving digital signals. this will not apply if you use VGA, and maybe DVI. Yes i believe that you have put your finger on the problem re the TV being too old. However having said that the contradiction is that you appear to have been able to plug into an HDMI input port on the TV which should indicate it is NOT too old. Now as you stated the ports on your video card that you are referring to are "3 output" ports. That means that the signal to be displayed will be the output signal of the computer. Now are you certain that the HDMI port that you are accessing on the TV is an input port. To recieve a signal from the computer you will have to select the proper source which in the case described would be your HDMI signal on your TV. truenorthIf HDCP is the problem you will need to try other means of connecting the to the TV. Here is a description and a comment about HDCP.

http://tv.about.com/od/hdtv/a/hdmidvihdcp.htmThe more I read about HDCP, the worse it GETS. It's got to be one of the WORST ideas ever in technology. I don't understand how the government could get behind a technology like this. Too many political contributions from Hollywood.

I don't support piracy, but this is ridiculous.well it looks like i got riped on my video card 200 dollars for something i can only use the ONE DVI port for the other 2 are pointless and i think i missed the 7 day return policy
Pursue the Manuf. return Policy...be aggressive but nice.
It's OK to mention the Retailer is a scumbag...they love that stuff...

Need some help with the new graphics card I bought off eBay. It is an ATI Raedon 9250 AGP with 256mb DDR memory.
My computer has an ECS nForce3-a ver.1 motherboard with AMD Athlon64 3000 processor;2gb PC2700 DDR Ram and runnig WINDOWS XP Home.
The original video card(Gainward GF3 TI200 AGP w/ 64mb mem.) died about a month ago. I pulled the card out of an older computer to keep mine running. That card is a Cirrus Logic 5430/5440 compatible Graphics Adapter.

I tried INSTALLING the Raedon card this morning and could not get it to work. HOOKING my monitor up to it resulted in a "No Signal" message. Hooked up the Cirrus card with the Raedon still in the computer and it would boot to the desktop for a few seconds then GO to a black screen with a flashing cursor in the upper corner. Before going black it did show that the computer detected the new card. Pulled out the Raedon and ran with Cirrus and everything worked.

Did I get a bad card( it is a new card) or is something else going on?

Thanks you for any help you can give me.

Scott D. Orbaker
Does your motherboard support the voltage the card works at? It's either 3.3v or 1.5v. (Although sometimes both) You'll have to verify this before you damage your mainboard. You should check the manuals of both devices.

Your BIOS might be INCORRECTLY configured too.

My laptop has a cracked monitor and I can't even use an external monitor anymore. Can I connect to my laptop from another computer USING only a usb cable or something to that effect (LIKE clone it MAN) or do I need to set up a NEW wireless connection etc??Double Post.
Topic Closed.

I have a new packard bell pc, inside it has a 256mb ddram stick but the system is only recognising 192mb of ram! WHY?On board video with 64 MEG shared ram.thanx, I take it if I get a graphics card and or more RAM, it will work faster As LONG as your motherboard supports more ram and you get the right type, it will improve performance. Installing a video card and DISABLING on board video will help.
please, I want to ask about the principle of operation of the DDRStart a new Topic with clearer details on what you need to know...

This one is over 6 YEARS old.
Quote from: patio on December 18, 2011, 07:38:42 AM

This one is over 6 years old.

Hey,
I have just got a new 23" E-motion LCD Tv. The native resolution for the SCREEN is 1920x1080 and it is connected to my pc via VGA cable.
I have a NVIDIA Geforce 8500GTS graphics card that to my understanding should support up to 2560 x 1600.
In both Nvidia Control Panel and the Windows properties, my resolution is set to the native resolution of 1920x1080 yet is still blurry.
Any ideas?FIRST thing to do is update to the latest driver for your vid card. Make sure you obtain the correct driver from the manufacturers website for the OS and your PARTICULAR card.
Check on-line documentation to confirm that the card's native resolution is in fact 1920x1080.
report back and we'll go from there.

Hey HELLO,

This is my first time here, hope i'm doing it right.
I have an desktop. Everytime i start it up, my monitor stays in the powersaving MODE. When i shut it off and REMOVE the battery on my motherboard for 5 min, and i start it up again it work. After clocksettings i want to restart it and the same problem is back. ANYONE some advice ?
Replace the battery...Part # CR 2032...AVAILABLE anywhere...How old is this monitor?

Hi all
I have recently experienced some problems with my network drive. Its a 500GB WD external hardrive, connected to my Thomson TG782T ADSL home network gateway. It used to work fine formatted as a FAT32 drive (as that is all the router can read, can't do NTFS permissions). However, recently, it began to GET slower and slower as a result of its FAT table filling up, and so i decided to split it into two FAT32 drives. I have done this, however, and now when it is mapped as a network drive, it says that the first drive has 4mb free space. This problem OCCURS on three computers (1xp home, 1 xp pro, 1 win7), and across multiple user accounts. In an attempt to fix the problem, I resized the partitions back to its full 500GB size. However, it still says it only has 4mb free. When i plug the hardrive into the computer through its USB port, it reports disk size correctly. I have copied files OVER the LIMIT that is stated, and plugged it back into the router, only to have the drive claim it is larger, but still with only 4mb free. I have run chkdsk. Does ANYONE have any ideas?
Thanks

I just recently purchased all the hardware parts I need to put together my own computer. The last time I did this was over 8 years ago so I spent all of the weekend reading up and studying what needs to be done.

Everything is put together in the chasis, and the only parts that arent new is the chasis, and a Hard Drive (which is fully wiped of data, just an older one I had). When I try booting up the system, everything seems fine; But after about 1 minute, the system just suddenly shuts off completely. No error, no internal beeps or alarms, nothing, just a complete and immediate shut down. It doesnt matter if I'm loading the windows install, in the Bios screen, or just sitting on any screen it will always shut down randomly. It has done this approximately 12 times now.

The Parts:
MSI P55M-Gd41 Motherboard
Intel i5 750 2.66ghz (P55 LGA 1156) Processor
Diamond Radeon HD5750 1GB
Corsair DDR3 4GB (2x 2GB) [PC1600C7] 1600Mhz RAM
Corsair TX650W Power Supply

ASUS CD/DVD R/RW Drive (SATA)
Maxtor 60GB HDD (SATA)

I intially tried it with an older Power Supply, so my first guess was that (of which I now have the Corsair one listed). It's having the same issue. Then I thought maybe it's a heat issue, so I cleaned the Thermal Paste from the CPU with a lintless cloth, nice and clean and applied some new Silver Thermal Compound ("Formula 5" by Antec") but I watched it from the Bios monitor and it's SHUTTING down with a CPU temp in different areas, and only around 70-76*C. I've tried reseating the RAM, and the V-Card.

Mobo Above the V-Card
http://img109.imageshack.us/i/mobo1.jpg/

Mobo Below the V-Card
http://img195.imageshack.us/i/mobo2u.jpg/


Any ideas? I've exhausted so many ideas disconnect everything from the mainboard that is not essential for booting. Remove the hard drive, cd/dvd drive, if theres onboard video, try using that. Try to get it to stay on while in bios setup. USE only one stick of ram. Try resetting the bios also. Quote from: rif on May 23, 2010, 05:21:03 PM

disconnect everything from the mainboard that is not essential for booting. Remove the hard drive, cd/dvd drive, if theres onboard video, try using that. Try to get it to stay on while in bios setup. Use only one stick of ram. Try resetting the bios also.

Yup, it's been running quite well now. I will end up improving the cooling anyway because this Mobo has a built in Overclocking feature "OGenie" that people have been reporting being able to boost this specific Processor to 3.1ghz, but I assume that will increase the heat being produced. Better safe than sorry.

Again, thanks a lot for all you guy's help. Maybe it'll be worth sticking around this community for a while.

I got this from the station that I partially work at. There upgradeing to a new audimation an just wanted to keep backups for the four stations. It orginally had like Windows 2000 Pro on it. I put in a bigger drive an installed Windows Data Center 08. Thing is that they all ways had trouble starting it as well. If you try to boot some of the post will show an you have to restart for the rest of it. It MAY take three or so tries to load the actual OS. I am experienceing it freezeing during a reinstall of the OS cause, I had to trouble shoot the network. I ran the memory check tool an SEEMS that the RAM is fine, its all so ECC.I tried to install the OS. Some reason it will sit there at the post an wont go any further. I changed the memory an didnt seem to fix it.Why on earth would you run a server on a laptop?Is the new HDD recognised by the BIOS ? ?
Is irt formatted ? ?
The Network should NOT come into play for a clean install so you need to disable that in the BIOS as well to get any further...Raptor, I dont KNOW what your refering too

Patio The harddrive I added was seen with out any troubles. It may have some parts of Data Center on it. I dont know your refering too network wise. It seemed that my machine wasnt seeing the server was what the issue was at the time. I dont think I can get into the BIOS ether.Why don't you just install the operating supported by the manufacturer on the laptop?I still dont know what your refering too. If you mean the TOWER it runs Data Center fineQuote from: Ryuk on January 11, 2012, 12:25:37 PM

I still dont know what your refering too. If you mean the tower it runs Data Center fine

If you have a PCi Slot that runs at 133 MHz and it is 32 BITS wide you do the math like this to findout how many Bits per second it is running at.

32 X 133,000,000

Now I have DDR 2. MEMORY that runs at 800 MHz and is 64 Bits wide so do I do the math the same way to findout how many Bits it is running at?

64 X 800,000,000

It this how I do it?
Thanks

I need some help. . . I just bought a new computer and need to transfer all files and almost all PROGRAMS from my old computers hard drive to my new computers hard drive.

I've read about how to copy everything from one drive to the other but I do not want to transfer the WINDOWS OS to my new computer. I've been using a USB drive and have started with the files but it takes a long time, is there an easier quicker way to perform this??

Any info will be a great help, thanks.

Wendy T.

1) Programs need to be reinstalled

2) http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rlz=1T4GGLL_enUS304US305&q=transfer+data+files+from+one+computer+to+another&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&gs_rfai=Personally, I would go buy a external HD.

They are great for backing up files, as well as transferring files as they can hold a tremendous amount of data. Plus, they are good to have for the future when your HD FILLS up.

The link that Allen has posted, if you CLICK on the CNET link (should be the top google choice), it gives a lot of good ideas/info.Quote from: jblab on May 23, 2010, 01:33:54 PM

Personally, I would go buy a external HD.

They are great for backing up files, as well as transferring files as they can hold a tremendous amount of data. Plus, they are good to have for the future when your HD fills up.