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Hello,,have a toshiba tecra S1, suddenly has blothchy SCREEN and some horizontal LINES, can still see EVERYTHING and use it.
I hooked up to external monitor and still has same symptoms, so my question is, Do i just replace the lcd screen? or is it something else?
thanksif you have the same problem on another monitor then it is not the screen, possibly the GPU
ahh ok, I wasnt sure, this is an older laptop, DOUBT i can replace it. Is there anything else I can check?Very un-likley to be able to replace the GPU as it will be embeded on the motherboard. I think it may be time to retier the laptop and get a new one.
There aer people who can replace the GPU but that can be exspensive and will probley cost more than the laptop is worth.

BB
SOUNDS like heat buildup has damaged the gpu , you can try uninstalling the drivers and reinstalling the drivers for the video.

Hello. First I'm going to list as much about my setup as I can. Then I'll tell you my problem.


Acer 23" Primary MONITOR
Sansui 19" Secondary monitor (Yes, it isn't a well know BRAND but for $100 it works as a secondary)
AMD Radeon 6850 GPU

I'm running the primary with DV-I to DV-I
I'm running the secondary with VGA to DV-I
Catalyst Control Center to control both monitors.


Now, on to my problem.

When ever I boot with both monitors plugged in, The BIOS and safe mod selection screens appear on both screens. Now, this just started happening. Then when it gets to my desktop, it GOES back to its extended view like I had it set to. Then after about 30 seconds on the desktop, both monitors with freak out. The will start to glitch up, then both will turn pink, or green, then they will black screen.

I'm posting this with only my primary plugged it because, well it works fine with just it plugged in.

I don't know if the monitor is bad, the Video card is going, or if there is just a screwed up setting.

Any help would be amazing.
UPDATE:

Both monitors work in safe mode, and bot monitors work by themselves.

So, I guess it must be a setting or a problem with the video card.

Anyone?UPDATE 2:

I've seemed to fixed the issue. I plugged the secondary in using HDMI instead of the VGA/DVI and it is working fine now. ( knock on wood)

So I guess the problem was a bad VGA cable.And it continues to mess up.

I've tried ever connection and every port on my monitor and computer.

So, I guess its the video card.

Has anyone every had this problem, and can confirm that it is my video card SCREWING up.

I will note that it seems to only mess up when I try to play a game. TF2, Simes, Counter Strike, even WoW.Well, today it hasn't done it as much, but instead of the pink and green screens, I get scanlines all over.

Still having the same problem. Works fine in safe mode, but as soon as I try to play a game or video, boom. It messes up.

Keep it Clean. We have Members of all ages.

Hi Everyone, is there an application that I can install in my desktop computer that would estimate the electric consumption based on the HARDWARE specs?Good Question!I need the same thing!Here is the most accurate way, but it costs $40.

http://the-gadgeteer.com/2003/12/23/kill_a_watt_electric_usage_monitor_review/

An amp meter, which few PEOPLE have, could do the same thing.There's nothing inside the computer that's monitoring AMPS, just volts.An amp meter is a physical device (kind of like a volt meter) that clamps around an electrical line, like the power cord, and measures the actual amperage going through the line.Actually, there's no difference between a voltmeter and an ammeter, except the ammeter uses a current shunt to measure voltage which can be read as amps. Clamp meters are a different animal.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Current_clamp
You can buy the kill a watt meter from newegg for $20. They also have a new more advanced version that doubles as an on/off timer for $50.Unplug the PC for a month...then compare last month and this month's bills...Quote from: rthompson80819 on April 29, 2010, 06:41:15 PM

An amp meter is a physical device (kind of like a volt meter) that clamps around an electrical line, like the power cord, and measures the actual amperage going through the line.

Only AC.

Some do AC & DC. I have one.

Yes. I am an oldster; I forgot about Hall effect sensors.

Hi Everyone, is there an application that I can install in my desktop computer that would estimate the electric consumption based on the hardware specs?

Unplug the PC for a month...then compare last month and this month's bills...

Hello DanF and forum users, HAPPY NEW NEAR!.I think I have a problem that is close to yours, but I tested my ram with memtest86 for 6 hours without any error(all at once, not piece by piece).My system was bought 3 weeks ago, and I installed the system 3 times, I have random blue screens.I took the sytem to warranty, but they said that the system worked perfectly and they did not had any problems.They tested the system with PC CHECK.

My system is:

CPU TypeQuadCore Intel Core i5-2500K, 3300 MHz (33 x 100)
MOTHERBOARD NameAsus P8Z68-V Pro
Memory Module Name 4 X Kingston 9905403-171.A00LF
Latest bios for my motherboard BIOS Version 1101
Hard Disk SAMSUNG HD502HJ SATA Device
2 optical drives HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH22NS50 ATA Device (LG) , TSSTcorp CDDVDW SH-S223Q ATA Device (SAMSUNG)
One Corsair 850W power supply.
One COOLER Master computer case.

and my latest DUMP file error read with blue screen viewer is:

DUMP FILE: 123111-24320-01.dmp
CRASH TIME: 12/31/2011 4:48:21 AM
BUG CHECK STRING: MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
BUG CHECK CODE: 0x0000001a
PARAMETER 1: 00000000`00041287
PARAMETER 2: 00000000`00000030
PARAMETER 3: 00000000`00000000
PARAMETER 4: 00000000`00000000
CAUSED by DRIVER: ntoskrnl.exe
CAUSED by ADRESS: ntoskrnl.exe+7cc40
FILE DESCRIPTION: NT Kernel & System
PRODUCT NAME: Microsoft® Windows® Operating System

Please help! I really want to solve my problem, because I am a video editor, and now I stay with my projects unresolved.I tested the HDD, but I don't have any bad sectors.When I installed the first windows 7 on this system 3 weeks agod, I had another problem, a blue screen caused by USB 3.0.I connected 3 logitech webcams to try a podcast.2 webcams connected to usb2.0 ports and 1 to usb3.0.When I connected the logitech c510 camera to usb 3.0 blue screen appeared.I entered to the motherboard site and updated the usb 3.0 firmware and after that I did not had problems with the usb 3.0.After I resolved that blue screen problem I had other blue screens with this type of error that I posted.Another problem is that my monitor searches the video CARD (onboard cpu) and sometimes cannot find it, searches analog/digital and then black screen remains.(does not enter to w7)Now I want to escape from this blue screen, and then I will buy a dedicated video card, because the onboard video card has issues.Thank you in advance for your help!

No. Windows will support as many logical partitions as there are letters in the ALPHABET, but there can be only 4 primary partitons.Quote from: Allan on MAY 02, 2010, 04:50:07 AM

Windows will support as many logical partitions as there are letters in the alphabet partitons.

Why would you change the hard drive?

(I wasn't really too sure where to place this problem.)Okay, so before someone TELLS me to try another keyboard, I've tried 5 different ones. Obviously the keyboard isn't the issue with this. It's drivin' me nuts! Anywho, I've come to discover that my alt + t key binding doesn't working at all. Not only does my alt + t key binding not ever work, my alt +d and alt + b key bindings work when they want to. I'll have days where my alt + d will work all day and then not work for another 4-5 days. I've gotten around it by just not USING them but it's about to make me lose my mind. I want to know what is going on with this. It did this randomly. I've had my computer for 1.5 years and about 3 months ago it just decided to say "Hmm, those alt key bindings you enjoy should just stop. I'm done with alt. I don't like the button anymore." UGH! Please help me out. I've heard things about Norton Anti-Virus preventing particular key bindings due to a bug but I'm fairly certain it has nothing to do with that. I do play games and that's how I figured out all of this was going on. It doesn't work outside of the games either. Though, my alt + [insert whatever key] key binding WILL work with ALL OTHER LETTERS except t, d, and b. I can do alt 0-9 and alt e, r, q, h, etc. It's just those three. It kind of makes me want to scream a little. Thank you SO much for anyone who can help.I deleted the other posts - please do not post the same question more than once. Also, it would be easier for us to read your post and understand your problem if you eliminated the commentary and just stuck with the facts. Thank you.

Please try this:

Open msconfig and on the General tab choose "selective startup" (uncheck all three items) and reboot. Does the problem still occur? If not, START adding items back to msconfig one or two at a time, rebooting after each change, until the problem reappears and you'll have identified the offending process. This is clearly a time consuming procedure, but it is the best way to determine if some process loading with the system is the cause of your problem.

After you've isolated the cause, do not USE msconfig to permanently disable the process. Instead, if it is a service go to START - RUN and type: services.msc (then press enter) and disable the service OR, if it a program, you can download & run a simple app such as Mike Lin's Startup Control Panel (http://www.mlin.net/StartupCPL.shtml) to enable, disable, or otherwise manage startup programs.do you still have the issue in Safe Mode?

What about if you boot to a Linux CD?

As an aside, Alt- combinations are typically referred to as Accelerator keys (these are typically underlined; for example, you can 'press' OK in many dialogs by pressing Alt-O). The relevance here is that if the application with the focus has controls (buttons, labels, frames, etc) which define Accelerators, the application itself won't "see" the Alt+Letter keypress at all. Given the widespread nature of your problem, though, I don't think that is the case.I'm going to try playing around with the msconfig and run in it in safe mode and see what happens
Thanks for the suggestions.Okay, I have good news. I unchecked the "Load Startup Items" box and my alt bindings are working again. Where would I go from here?

And as a side note - THANK YOU!Quote from: Joey93A on January 01, 2012, 04:06:14 PM

Where would I go from here?

The sinario is in ONE of my PC when I TRY to open CD/DVD I RECEIVE a message D:\cannot acces, access denayed. So I found this is because of registry error. I tried to fix it but I could not be able to solve this proble.What started this? Where you installing a service pack?

I dropped my laptop. Now, whenever I turn it on, the screen is red-ish. Everything else is running fine. Can anyone tell me why it's LIKE that? Also, when I put pressure on the bottom of the laptop with my KNEE, the screen goes back to normal, until I take the pressure off.When you dropped your laptop, you EITHER shook a CONNECTION loose or cracked or damaged a COMPONENT. You should take your laptop to a repair company.

I have a Dell Dimension 3000 desktop and the other day I restarted the computer and now it appears that it keeps trying to read the floppy disk drive. There is no floppy in the drive. The green light on the front keeps flashing on and off slowly and its MAKING the sound like its trying to read a floppy disk. I'm running Windows XP Home Edition Service Pack 3. Any suggestions what might be causing this?At what point during the boot is the floppy POLLED?It's been a while since I've had a computer with a floppy drive, but it used to be standard boot up procedure to check for a floppy first during the boot process, before going to the hard drive.

Usually, though it just took a second or two to confirm no floppy was present. Is yours taking longer than a second or two?Quote from: rthompson80819 on May 02, 2010, 04:39:40 PM

It's been a while since I've had a computer with a floppy drive, but it used to be standard boot up procedure to check for a floppy first during the boot process, before going to the hard drive.

Usually, though it just took a second or two to confirm no floppy was present. Is yours taking longer than a second or two?

Quick fix.
Format a floppy. Blank.
Change boot order.
Leave floppy in drive.
Don't ask why! RESISTANCE IS FUTILE. I AM THE BORG!

Hi,

I have an old, empty ATX case and a power supply with an on/off switch. The psu already has a sata power cable. If I buy a 3.5" internal sata harddrive, and MAYBE a $5 sata to usb cable (or sata to esata cable), can I basically use this old case as an external hard drive ENCLOSURE? Will other computers/laptops be able to recognize the hard drives as external harddrives if I just buy one of those cables?

Also, would it be possible to place two HDDs in a RAID-1 configuration with the above setup (ie without a motherboard)? If so, what else would I need to buy?

Thanks in advance.Ooof, yes I guess its 'dooable', but I'd have to QUESTION why you'd even want to? If you are going to the expense of buying a drive, either buy an external drive with USB connection or buy a drive and drive casing. Dragging a PC casing around that needs to be plugged in just so that you can connect it to other computers doesn't make sense.

The RAID question needs an answer as to what you are trying to achieve. Are you thinking about using a RAID as a portable storage device? In a network? Or is this a science project? Either way, you'll probably END up spending way more than you really need to.Thanks for the reply.

Is this really that clumsy of a solution though? What I want is two harddrives to backup my data, and most dual harddrive enclosures seem really expensive. Also, buying a external harddrive in the current market just doesn't seem smart -- too many people seem to have problems with them failing very soon, or not being recognized anymore, and all of them seem to only have one year of warranty. Most internal harddrives on the other hand have 3-5 years of warranty. So my question is, will my laptop have the same problems with recognizing the internal harddrives from the setup I described -- is it a USB problem? Or would my setup be more durable?

I really don't have that much money to spend, but I'm definitely open to suggestions for other enclosures / recommendations if you guys think my solution isn't very good. All I need is two external harddrives, so that I can back up my data to both so that if one fails, I still have my data in the other.

As for raid-1, again I just want the same data backed up to both, so if this can be done automatically, that would be nice, but if it's really going to be as expensive as you say, then I guess I can just forget about it and manually back up both hard drives.

So yeah, I'm definitely open to any specific recommendations if you have any.If the reason for your original question is just to create cheap back up drives then I'd re-evaluate your whole scenario and go with thumb drives...unless your backing up gigs of data in which case I'd go with tape.
If you buy a drive and put it in a casing with a USB connection, it'll still carry the 3-5yr warranty!
Remember, for every person you read about on line that has a problem with an external drive, there are hundreds more that don't. I personally have a 250GB drive that I've used professionally almost every day for the last 4 years and its never missed a beat. You won't have problems connecting this to any laptop/desktop.

Now you mention a laptop and so I'm confused as to how this comes into play.

If you're stuck on the RAID for a desktop, buy a controller card to fit an open slot and and get a drive that's the same or similar (not SMALLER or different speed) than the one installed and your good to go.
It's by no means the perfect solution for data backup, its more 'fault tolerant' than most but external media for me is a far better (safer) solution.

I have a dell inspiron n5010. The dc jack on it does not work, the MIDDLE pin is broken off. I have a new dc jack for my laptop , but I am not sure how to solder it on. I looked on the INTERNET to see if I COULD get instructions on how to do it for my laptop, but I couldnt find any. Can any of you give me some instructions, or maybe point me to a video of how to do it? watch this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieoM_40nRVs
If you have some old electrical bits that you can practice on that wouold be adviseable before you attack your laptop
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Im_n9K-14_IIve taken some pictures of the dc jack. Should I just desolder all the connection points to the dc jack only the bottom, shown in picture 1, or should i also desolder the same connection points on the top, shown in PIC 2?

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]You will need to de solder ALL contact points on the DC jack
Keep in mind attempting this repair could brick the MBoard and therefore the laptop...Soldering requires a measure of skill. Practice on something else first.
Choose a low temperature tip. The high temperature nips are for production use, not repair shop. Clean the tip frequently.
If you have to ask, you probably should have someone else do it. This is not for the amateur.Quote from: Computer_Commando on February 06, 2012, 12:18:46 PM

This is not for the amateur.

compaq EVO d510..its starts off with 1 SHORT beep followed by 2 longs beeps NOTHING is displayed on the screen ..i've tried replacing the DDR 266Mhz RAM ...bt the problem still persists... help anyone...Some of those EVO's had Leaky Capacitor issues. Remove lid and inspect all capacitor tops for swelling or a yellowish chalky substance leaking out of them. The capacitors surrounding the CPU were all bad on many Compaq EVO's a COMPANY I worked at before my current job. Both Small Form Factor EVO's as well as mini-towers had this issue. Symptoms varied from beep (POST) codes to a system looking healthy locking up tight mouse and all.

I just got my first computer with an NVIDIA graphics card. I was wondering if NVIDIA has an application similar to ATI's Catalyst Control Center, which is what I've used on both of my previous computers.

ThanksI believe it's called nVidia Control Panel...
Make sure to DLoad the appropiate ver. for your card and OS.Thanks,

I downloaded NVIDIA control panel, and I think I FIGURED out how to use it. However when I used ATI CCC I was able to set specific settings (mainly 3D) for all my games. Most notably Anti-Alaising and TRIPLE Buffering etc. However I tried doing this with the NVIDIA Control panel and it doesn't seem to make a difference at all in any game. The games still have the "wavy LINE" effect etc. Is there something I'm doing wrong, or is there a certain way to make sure my settings will work?I don't game but I have nVidia on this computer.
nVidia Control Panel---Manage 3D Settings--Program Settings TAB
1. Select Program to Customize
2. Specify the Settings for this Program
Click on "Feature"; select drop-down "Setting"; there are 5 settings for most apps.Thanks guys I think I got itExcellent ! !

BTW Welcome Aboard !When I install the drivers control panel appears in the dropdown menu on right click of the mouse button and start-up icon. Recently it update the client and he has considerably changed and BECAME more confusing but FASTER.

I have a HP NETSERVER LH II, the thing will boot too Netware 4.11. Thing is that I got this from a radio station an the music was backed up too it. I need to see if there is anything worth keeping. Also, I wanted to put a more modern OS on it as well. However, once I changed it to boot to the disk drive it just launches NetwareGuessing netware 4.11 is running and you dont have credentials to log on and navigate to look?

We had one of these a long time ago, the 266Mhz Pentium II with Wide-SCSI drives for our Exchange 5.5 and Windows NT Server OS. Its very limited in how you can go about getting the data off of the drive(s) while it remains in that box. If your lucky you have like 256MB Ram like ours had, you might be able to get Linux to run on it and bypass the netware security. But if my memory is correct about our box, the BIOS DIDNT support bootable CD's and so we had to use a bootable floppy to get CD Rom drivers loaded and functional.

If you had say a PCI Wide-SCSI CONTROLLER card, and a system with an available PCI slot and room to mount the Wide-SCSI drives you could try to access the data that way from say a Windows XP or newer system and with the drives mounted maybe be able to get past the netware security on those drives and copy data out.

I took our 266Mhz server and tried to give it a second life for a less critical role, but it was showing its age when used back in 2008. Even when the COMPANY decommissioned it and I saved it from the dump, the only role I could find for it was an FTP Server so that I could SEND and receive large files that my e-mail doesn't support. I ended up putting Windows XP Pro SP2 on it, and it worked ok for a FTP server until I replaced it with better hardware and gave it to a friend who needed an old box for Windows 98 SE and old GAMES, which Windows 98 SE screamed on that system.As far as I know you had to have a Server Client to Acess the Server. This would of been the first dual boot units ever. I figured that as much since I found out that it needed DOS based stuff to work at all. The BIOS is set to use boot disks. It really wouldnt work :/ I tried that but, supposeably netware partitons cant be really read. I was probably going to back up some files to the drives mite put like 03 Server on it or somethingLocked

I have a apple iMac, model m5521 apple imac M5521 family.

When i attempt power on from pressing the power BUTTON, it goes green for a short time. By short, i MEAN about as fast as a blink of an eye.
I have TRIED multiple power cords, outlets, just to MAKE sure it was not something WRONG with external power.
All attempts have the same result.

I am better at software repairs, and the imac is a new piece of hardware for me, and i am completely unfamiliar with the circuts and layout of hardware.
Any help appreciated. Thanks

Earlier today, I put my laptop into my bag along with a WATER bottle. The water bottle's cap wasn't screwed on, so water spilled out and FLOODED the bottom of the bag. My laptop got wet!!! It was 1/2 cup of water and since my laptop was carried vertically, only 1 edge got wet. at the time of the spillage, my comp was in hibernate mode, and now it won't start up. Now I took out the battery and I have a fan blowing at it. Anything else I can do? Have I irrevocably DAMAGED my comp? What are the chances that it'll be ok? I am really worried. Btw, it is a Sony vaio laptop, about 11 months old. Remove the battery and AC, then give the computer time to dry.

Once the laptop is dry, try booting it again. If that fails, it sounds like you'll need some repairs.You used the magical term that may be your ultimate salvation " about 11 months old". If that is so then you should still be under warranty. Don't fool with it. Apply your warranty. Quickly. As it could be very near the end.truenorthQuote from: truenorth on May 03, 2010, 05:20:17 PM

You used the magical term that may be your ultimate salvation " about 11 months old". If that is so then you should still be under warranty. Don't fool with it. Apply your warranty. Quickly. As it could be very near the end.truenorth

hey all thanks for the help.

I dried it overnight and then earlier today I put in the battery and nothing happened. I took out the battery and connected the power cord, and interestingly, the power light (at the front of the computer) turned green. The other light (I believe it represents the CPU) flickered and then turned orange. However, the computer did not turn on. So I unattached everything and put the comp back on the table to dry. How much longer should I wait? Also, do the lights tell me something?

I found my warranty sheet and it said that it covers 12 months (which means I still have 2+ weeks). However, it said it doesn't cover accidents. Aww...perhaps I'll give it a try anyways?

I would like to KNOW if there's any or MUCH difference in different types of HDMI lines. Is it worth paying a lot more for what they advertise as a "faster" HDMI line? I just bought a couple of new HDTVs for our home and I like to stream videos etc. Is there any difference in quality and / or size of an HDMI line? I was hoping to get at LEAST one long one, MAYBE 6+ meters in length.

Thanks...One of MANY articles on your question. However i believe this one answers it extremely well.
http://www.cepro.com/article/how_to_choose_the_right_hdmi_cable/
truenorth

Just bought an RCA DSB778W Streaming Media Player and setup was pretty cut and dry with one hitch. When I go through setup for the Wi-Fi to acquire an IP Address it just hangs. I have 2 Laptops and 1 desktop in the house and they pickup an IP with no problem and one of them is farther away from the router. Am I supposed to hard wire a cat 5 first to obtain an IP? Unfortunatly, there was no info provided with this unit and nothing I could find on the net.

Thank You
John Where did you get it? A yard SALE? What makes you think it is a wireless device? A similar device for sale at Wallchart is not a WI-Fri device.I guess the big Wi-Fi printed on the BOX was decieving. It has wireless settings in the menu as well. It picks up the local SSID but lags while trying to acquire an IP. Funny though, there's no antenna on the unit which I would think would be needed to acquire an IP.My bad. If it has WI-Fi on the box it has to be a wireless device.
What kind of security does you wireless network use?

It maybe having an issue with the password for your wireless router. Look in the documentation for the router and find the password or code needed to establish a connection. In some cases it is printed on a label non the BACK of fourteenth.

Not the Ethernet password, the wireless password.No problem. I guess I should have explained better but the device searches for the network and finds it with no problem. It ALSO accepts the network password I assigned to it with no problem. It even says it's connected to my network in the network list. The problem is when it searches for an ip address, it just hangs. I'm not totally computer savy but I know enough to run my network. I really think it's a POS problem the device now. I have 5 computers running in my network at this time and everyone of them is on a Dynamic IP and if I change it to Static, they pick up an IP, no problem. Thanks for trying but I guess 50.00 for a Streaming Video device was too good Wi-Fi to be true. Time to run some Cat 5 I guess.

Thanks Again
JohnI think the problem is the nRCA gadget NEEDS to have the wireless key for your router.

The Ethernet password and the wireless key are two distinct things. The wireless key is part of the WEP or WEPA security for wireless.

A static IP is one way to solve part of the problem.
My limited experience suggests the wireless password or key is the issue. The Wee, PS3 and XBox don't work right until the router verifies the wireless key with then new device . I assume you device works like that.

A workaround is to use not security at all and run "naked"on the wireless. Not a good idea with more and more neighbors getting WI-FI devices. But it is ab easy way to verify that the password is the only issue.

However, it you can hook it up directly to the network using an Ethernet cable, the wireless wouldn't be a problem.

Try turning off your security in the router for a short while to test the gadget. Some routers tallowy to have alternative profiles, so you might create a profile with no security. After testing, switch back to the normal profile.
Good idea Geek, I'll try that before climbing in the attic.

Thanks
John

On startup i get 1 long and then 3 SHORT beeps (msi-p43 neo) . A memory problem? I changed/swapped them, even bought new ones. There are TWO DDR2 800 2gb in my board. Main problem: after 5 minutes Windows 7 freezes COMPLETELY. I am running with one mem card now otherwise my PC freezes even before the Windows logo shows up!
Did mem tests, checked harddisks, even a new battery for the bord? I am stuck.......

Intel Core2 [emailprotected]83Ghz
MSI-P43 neo
Ati Radeon 4870hd x2
A quick google search shows 1 long beep, 3 short beeps to be a video error.
http://www.pchell.com/hardware/beepcodes.shtml
http://www.pcguide.com/ts/x/sys/beep/awardB13-c.html
Here is your motherboard manual:
http://download3.msi.com/files/downloads/mnu_exe/E7519v1.0.zip
I was not able to find any beep codes in it.

Try troubleshooting your graphics card and power supply in another known working system. If both do work, it probably is an issue with the motherboard.

The strangest thing has HAPPEN to me me please help. I have a Gigabyte GA8SMML motherboard (478pin)with a 3GHz processor. I want to install windows but can't seem to. The IDE connectors on the motherboards is not working on start up an nether are they present in the BOIS. Tried flashing the BIOS an still no luck. The only way it works is if i unplug the Cdrom or Hdd,.it wont startup together.PLEASE HELP AS I NEVER SAW ANYTHING LIKE THIS YETWelcome to the CH forum.
Let's assume that you're an experienced homebuilder and you're trying to bring up a new motherboard and your problem seems to be related to judge the IDE connection.
Since we don't know anything about your experience here are just a few limerick questions.
So both your CD-ROM and here hard disk drive are the older parallel IDE type. Is that right? And you're USING a better quality 80 wire cable with a 40 pin connectors. Tomorrow procedure is to set both devices on cable select and also to use two separate cables for hard drive of course goes into the first IDE port controller and the CD-ROM drive goes into the next one.
Now in your be IOS both the hard disk drive and the CD-ROM are identified correctly. Is that right? And you set the boot ORDER to first do the CD-ROM and then do the hard disk drive. Right
okay, now from what you describe it sounds like you have both the hard disk drive and the CD-ROM in the system at the same time it does not work or does not start up anything. That COULD only happen if both are on the same cable and you did not use cable select.
But you are it checked out the CD-ROM by itself right? The system boots up and the CD-ROM starts up the install and then it proceeds to tell you that there's no hard disk drive. Is that right? If we can't get to that point then we need to find out why we can't at least boot up the CD-ROM drive by itself. This is a diagnostic procedure. We can't install anything without the hard disk drive present. But being able to boot from the CD-ROM drive is an essential task. So we want to make sure we can do that before we proceed any further. Have you done that?
please excuse my spelling and grammar errors. I do this as fast as possible in order to get back to you right away.How many IDE connectors ? ?
Do the both do the same thing ? ?

Try BRAND NEW IDE cables to see....

My DVD burner can read and play DVDs (although it takes awhile to start), but it will not burn or erase a disc. I have used Nero and Ashampoo and each time they ask for a blank disc to be INSERTED even though there is a blank disc in the drive.

I have gone to control panel - system -device manager and checked the optical drives, both are enabled and are reported to be working.

System
Asus A8N-E motherboard
AMD 64 3700 processor
300GB SATA HD
80GB SECONDARY SATA HD
nothing in the IDE slots
3GB ram

Any ideas on how to get the burner to work?
Many thanks

Are you certain you are using a compatible disc (ie, dvd-r vs dvd+r)?Have you EVER been able to burn with that optical unit?truenorthI have been able to use this drive in the past , it is a multi layer RW+/- drive and I am using the same Maxell DVD+RW discs that I always use!How old is the drive? These are often one of the first things to go south as your PC gets older.Quote from: CBMatt on May 01, 2010, 05:17:08 AM

How old is the drive? These are often one of the first things to go south as your PC gets older.

I am using the same Maxell DVD+RW discs that I always use!

When I get too many picture and video files on my laptop, I COPY all the files on to two flash drives. One I keep, the other I give to my dad "just in case". I always check that all files have moved and that I can open them on my dad's pc and my work pc.

Recently I moved files to a new Sony 8gb flash drive. I can see and open the files on my laptop. On every other computer I TRIED, I get a "No files" message. When I click "Properties" I can see that the drive is full. Searched online, saw on the Sony site that the drive MIGHT NEED to be reformated, followed their instructions, no go.

Bought a HP 32gb drive last week. Exact same THING. Can see and open everything on my laptop, but nowhere else. My laptop and two of the computers I tried run Windows 7, one Vista. I have been able to open files saved on flash drives from my laptop on all these computers in the past. Quote

Recently I moved files to a new Sony 8gb flash drive

Hi,

Please can someone suggest what could possibly be the fault with my ASUS EEEPC model HA1008. I've managed to get into BIOS settings by allowing the battery to go flat, and can't find anything wrong there but it just won't boot and doesn't give me anything that looks LIKE an error message.

In order to see what's going on, I had to photograph the screen in continuous shooting mode with my Nikon D3000. If I turn the computer on with a charged battery I just get the flashing cursor on a blank screen (4th picture). When I power it off and on it returns to the same blank screen. If I allow the battery to go flat (there isn't a way to remove the battery without taking the back off) and then power it on I get the following images appear for a few fractions of a second before it goes back to the blank screen (pictures 1-4).









Thx

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]Press F2 to run Setup. See if Setup (BIOS) recognizes hard drive.Thanks, but ...

YES - the BIOS recognises the HDD: PM-ST9160314AS as the 1st boot-deviceResize your pics, they're off the screen.Finally I found an option in the BIOS to disable boot boster, quick boot, and quiet boot

Now it does a verbose power on self test I can see that its says "RAM R/W test failed" so I'll go buy some NEW RAM now

RAM almost never fails the BIOS test, so it must have really failed.Boot sector on hardrive is more than likely corrupt. Create a bootable usb drive to ensure you computer functions. After created hit escape at boot up to open boot OPTIONS and boot from usb. If everything fuctions follow intructions here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qMsMXOterc. You will need you factory RECOVERY cd and a 4 to 8GB usb drive to complete install.Quote from: wildrizzo88 on July 07, 2011, 02:01:04 PM

Boot sector on hardrive is more than likely corrupt. Create a bootable usb drive to ensure you computer functions. After created hit escape at boot up to open boot options and boot from usb. If everything fuctions follow intructions here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qMsMXOterc. You will need you factory recovery cd and a 4 to 8GB usb drive to complete install.

You're replying to a 5 Month old thread...

I joined just now because the solution has not really been presented and I wanted to save people some frustration.
Regardless of how old this thread is people will inevitably come across it like I did.

The problem (at least in my case) is fixed by disabling the Boot Booster in BIOS.
To get into BIOS you need to quickly press F2 when the screen starts flashing.
There should be no need to re-install anything if you don't want to.

I have a Dell Vostro 1400 with the Intel SANTA Rosa (GM965) chipset (Intel® Core™ 2 Duo T5270, GMA X3100) that the motherboard has gone out on. Because I'm in the middle of writing my thesis and I don't want to mess with re-installing and configuring some specialized programs, I would really like to be able to run the programs on my HARD drive in another computer. My plan: buy a similar computer on EBAY, and swap my hard drive into the new computer. If the chipset base is the same (Intel GM965), but the processor is different, will this still work? Is there anything else I have to watch out for?No, you will not be able to boot to the OS. The hardware needs to be identical. If you were using XP you could do a REPAIR install - I'm not SURE what your options are with Vista. Why not just replace the mobo?was told it was too difficult to get at and am uncertain I want to try it myself. Can't decide which time-consuming option is best (or worst).I've never replaced a mobo in a laptop, but in a desktop it's pretty simple - less than 1/2 hour

my PC starts up ,fans working , green light on MOTHERBOARD ,no beep (post test skipped ) so I'm told .No signal to monitor.PC was working fine for more than a year.Ive tried almost every suggestion...like POWER off hold power button 30 SECONDS ,check cables removed graphic ram ,CPU ,reset ,f8 on start up,switch PCs ,monitors...
Now I'm at the point were i noticed the PC doesnot beep when start up which means it skipped the post test...
iv tried all suggestions on forums and still no beep.the only time it beeped three times is when i removed the ram. but still no signal to monitor.after installing the ram .no beep..
i reset the CPU , i don't know what else to do. i read only one article about a JUMP start at this stage .i don't know how to go about this
info:"Intel CORE 2 duo,nvidea graphics card 256MB cant remmember the rest PC is down
thanks for your help

I have a transcend storejet25m3 640Gb external that is in the FAT32 format.
My computer says it has almost 37Gb left spare but I am unable to COPY a 5GB file as it says there is insufficient disk space.
I have another identical drive in the same format that I have been able to fill to capacity aside from a few Mb.
Is there any way I can make use of this space that is left?
If I bought another drive I COULD maybe TRANSFER the data and reformat back into FAT32 or NTFS but I see nothing that should prevent me from adding data to my existing drive.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Many thanksFAT32 max file size is limited to 4GB.
http://www.ntfs.com/ntfs_vs_fat.htm

Okay, I literally JUST bought this microphone yesterday. But it's doing something weird.

The microphone is a logitech desktop microphone 600, and I'm USING it with my LENOVO laptop, windows 7.

It works fine...except for long sounds. When I try to hold a note for more than a second, the sound sort of...dies out. It fades into a techy hum, then vanishes completely. But if I start talking again, it comes back. I tried going into control panel and setting it up, but there weren't any real configuration options. Just the option to start SPEECH recognition.

What do I do...?Try another microphone. Reduce the microphone GAIN. Disable per-process compression, if your sound CARD has it.

Hi, I have a problem here and I cannot think of a way to solve it. I have a Gigabyte x58A-UD3R MOTHERBOARD and an Antec 900 gamer case. The problem is I cannot install another card because the PSU is in the way. The cards I want to use are 2 Geforce 570GTX and tack up 2 slots each. Why on earth if this is a gamer case can I not use SLI because of the PSU in the way and why case can I use that it won't be in the way? Links to these items are below.


http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/motherboards/2010/05/07/gigabyte-ga-x58a-ud3r-motherboard-review/1

http://www.ebuyer.com/118268-antec-900-nine-hundred-case-with-200mm-top-fan-0761345-08009-5



It should fit fine, Make sure ONE card is in the 1st blue slot from the top and that the second card is in the third blue slot from the top. That way both cards will overhang the motherboard and be clear of the PSU.Quote from: camerongray on February 03, 2012, 04:32:09 AM

It should fit fine, Make sure one card is in the 1st blue slot from the top and that the second card is in the third blue slot from the top. That way both cards will overhang the motherboard and be clear of the PSU.

My Dell 1764 laptop suddenly has lost the DVD drive.... The device manager indicated a problem, I tried to install updated drivers and unistalled the drive. When I restarted it says drivers not found . I am running Windows 7 and have not had any trouble before. I thought it would reinstall it's self, but no luck

Any help would be great.Does the drive show up in BIOS?

What version of windows are you using?I am running Windows 7, device manager lists the drive. Under properties , I get the following message.

Windows cannot start this hardware device because its configuration INFORMATION (in the registry) is incomplete or damaged. (Code 19)Remove/uninstall the drive in Device Manager and re-boot
Windows will automatically re-install it.If patio's suggestion doesn't work, try these:


1. Delete Upper & Lower Filters
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/982116
Restart computer.
or...

2. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...

3. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.
Quote from: Allan on January 02, 2012, 12:41:06 PM

2. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...

A few days ago my printer decided that it didn't like my "after market" print cartridge again and refused to print. I spent a lot of time uninstalling and re-installing the software, and it still didn't like the cartridge. (I knew that it had accepted the cartridge once because it had worked for several weeks). I gave up, turned it off, and went to bed. Today I turned it back on and it would print as a copier but was not communicating with the computer. I checked the device driver and it was disabled, I enabled it but to no avail. If I check the "devices and printers" icon in the Control Panel, the computer does not acknowledge it's existance. Is there some thing simple that I can do or do I need to go thru the installation again? I am afraid that if I do re-install it, then it will once again refuse the "after market' cartridge.
I am running windows 7
The printer is a HP4500 G510n, 4 way wireless.
Help. Thanks for looking, JCI don't know if there is relevance to your current problem However sometime back as a result of a PM from you i sent you the contact for an after-market supplier for printers as per your request(don't know if you got it as no acknowledgement occurred). If in FACT your current issue is related to a malfunctioning PRODUCT from them i urge you to contact them. They are committed to customer satisfaction and they will replace any malfunctioning product --no questions asked and totally without cost. truenorthTruenorth, Yes I did get it and, I'm sorry, I thought that I had acknowledged it. I did not contact them at the time because the printer started working correctly (? ?) (go figure) and I wanted to save a buck. I retired 27 years ago and , tho my income was adequate at the time, that is no longer the case. I have become a real penny pincher..
I still have your suggestion and I will look into it. Thanks for the comeback. JimGlad to hear that you got it. It is very common for replacement cartridges to cause issues with printers (particularly after market ones). Often as i have stated here on the CH forums most printers will not function (even the totality of multi function printers) if for whatever REASON one COLOR cartridge is a problem. So if a cartridge is at the bottom of the current issue it remains intermittently usable but ultimately it will probably cause you to lose the use of the printer. I doubt that anything you will do re software alterations will resolve the issue given that it has worked and APPEARS related to a cartridge issue. Be careful with your eventual decision if you reach a point of printer failure. It is seldom practical to "repair" a printer (the exception being either very high end units or printers still under warranty). When and if you find some amount will need to be spent, again i urge you to contact the firm i mentioned at if for no other reason than to get their input as to what they think would serve you best. I have found them to be unique in putting customer satisfaction ahead of personal gain.truenorth Okay, I will do that, tomorrow. I want to compile a list of questions that I will have for them first. I am more than a little irked that HP goes to so much trouble to insure against refilling their cartridges. Oh well, mute point. I will get back to you, if I remember, how I make out with this issue if we can leave the thread open. Thanks again. Talk later, JIM

My problem is that I finally got a new PC running Windows 7 Ultimate and I'd like to transfer my old movies/mp3's/anime etc from my previous 200-220gb hard drive which is partitioned into two nearly equal halves. When I hook up my hard drive into my external enclosure and then plug everything in I go to My Computer and see that maybe 75% of the time 1 of 2 partitions show up. I can access this partition (labeled Local Disk E in the image below) and have been through everything and have mostly copied over whatever I needed (it was a slow and tedious process with all the stupid permissions and taking ownership of everything). Now when I try to hook up my external drive and change USB slots, I sometimes manage to get my other partition to show up (labeled Local Disk G in the image below). I cannot access Local Disk G for whatever reason, it just keeps spinning and spinning as if it were attempting to constantly access the data stored there. I usually have to force close and shut off the enclosure to retry it and ATTEMPT it again and again, but this time I was given an message which said "G:\ is not accessible. The parameter is incorrect. I don't know what to do, I really desperately need what's on there, I'll have lost over two years worth of downloads, family photos, game mods and a lot of other things I don't even remember because it's been nearly a year since the last time I used the hard drive. Any help WOULD be appreciated. Thanks in advance.


Image showing Local Disks


Image showing the parameter error
This has been my observation also. The USB adapters vary in quality. Testing does not produce consistent results, indicating some instability with the adapters.

You did not mention what make and model of enclosure you have. Enclosure made by top brand names have a one-year warranty. Unknown brands seldom have more that a 90 day warranty.

It may be necessary to get another USB adapter for your hard drive; which is better than junking the hard drive.

Chesapeake that I am, I kept buying cheap NATTERS until I got one that worked. Went through at least five or six of them.

Example: At Tiger direct an external IDE/USB adapter is $20. But at Newegg a somewhat different brand name device is $45. The One at new egg requires you to use your own power supply. For a reason; the winningly meager supply you get with the $20 device will power a HDD only under a full moon.
To the OP: I can think of a few things to check out:

A drive letter clash; you may have more than one device claiming the drive letter G. Go into Disk Management, identify the problematic partition, and assign it a drive letter which you definitely know for sure is unassigned to any partition.

However the 75% of the time thing makes me think it is one of these...

Power DRAIN: the enclosure is getting its DC power from the USB port when it should be using a wall wart, causing erratic operation of the USB interface and the enclosure.

Linked to the previous point, perhaps: poor quality enclosure, as Geek suggests. (Do you have the option of mounting the disk internally?)

Filesystem corruption or hard drive damage. Are the SYMPTOMS the same if you plug the enclosure into another computer?

Much of what I wrote, I now see, duplicates Geek-9pm's very relevant points.

Quote

Now when I try to hook up my external drive and change USB slots, I sometimes manage to get my other partition to show up [...] I usually have to force close and shut off the enclosure to retry it

I decided to run the encryption utility that LOADS when I PLUG in my Iomega Prestige external HD and now, as far as I know, the files will not open to view unless the utility is installed on my desktop computer. How do I get rid of this and return it to before this where as soon as I pluged the drive in I would get the prompt to view files or it would just appear as another drive?

This is the only menu the encryption PROGRAM has:



When I UNINSTALL the program I can't view the drive. Before this all I had to do was plug it in.

I have an Acer Aspire notebook. Whenever I attempt to burn photos from my camera to a blank DVD, it never burns. I am using a Memorex blank DVD-R, 16X,4.7 GB and 120 min. I often SEE a message saying that the DVD does not have enough storage space however I'm only trying to transfer a total of 4 GB of photos, under 2,000 photos to the DVD. What am I am doing WRONG? Do I NEED a DVD with more storage space? It's very frustrating. Thanks.In your attempt at burning the photos are you trying to do so directly from the camera or are they on the HDD of the computer?What burning software are you using? No the dvd capacity is more than enough for the transfer size you indicate.truenorthMore detail is needed.
What program is saying there is not enough space on the DVD?
What OS is the OP using?
Windows XP does not copy photos to a DVD.
You need a third-party tool.

Well, my computer has been having a problem where sometimes if I move it suddenly it STARTS too look differently, but if I am lucky, and the stars and planets align then it turns back, but this time it has been like it for 2 weeks.
What could be wrong with my computer?
LOOKS like Duke Nukem 3...Well it's minecraft, it was just the first example i could get.Laptop or desktop ? ?
If an addon card remove all power...remove and re-seat the card and SEE if that helps...Laptop
And that didn't work.Well it wouldn't as you CANT remove the GPU on most laptops...
Does this PC meet game requirements ?
Was it recently dropped ?
Tried re-installing the video drivers ? ?Yes, Yes, No, thanks, I'll try it now.Did not work.

Hello there, i have a problem REGARDING with my HP F4185 all in one printer, when i flug it on it automatically turned on, and all the LIGHTS or on and when i press power button it wont turn off.any key i press is not responding and it doesn't even detected in my computer that there is a printer attached to pc.. HOPE somebody could help me thank you so much......
Have you already read this:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/product?cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&product=3235312

You did not mention what OS you have, not did you say how OLD the printer is.
yes i already read it. but it doesn't help at all. my OS is Windows XP service pack 2. its 1 years old printerSo the printer was working g for on e year and failed? Most likely answer is the power brick of the printer and gone bad and the printer can not interface with the computer. Otherwise it would be the USB connection has failed.i think there is a problem on the main board of the printer, because sometimes when i unflug it and flug it again after 10 sec it runs ok but now its worst...
thus anyone know how to hard reset a printer?

My child jammed a smaller DIGITAL card into my Sd card SLOT. Cant remove it with tweezers. Any ideas? You can try. FIRST disconnect the system from AC PowerCan I pull on this card? I don't care abt card (PROBABLY a game), just the system. Gently, yesAllan,

Thank you . Used medical tweezers (for WOUNDS) with tiny rubber grips. Worked like a charm. I love the website; will recommend strongly.Glad it worked for you

I have Composite AV in and a TV Tuner on my computer and I have used it before through cyberlink powercinema... Now it has been reformated and I dont know how to use it ANYMORE.. please HELP.. Do I NEED to download drivers?what is the make and model of the tuner? What version OS are you running?


Did the TV tuner COME with any software?

I have tried to use an external USB 2.0 SATA HDD box with XP, VISTA, and Windows 7. The device is found when connected, INSTALLED, and is REPORTED by the OS a working PROPERLY but Windows Explorer doesn't find it and/or assign a drive number.How to assign, change, or REMOVE drive letters in Windows XP:
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/307844

With little to no technical computer experience, I have maybe stupidly taken on the challenge of building my own gaming computer. To keep it simple I plan to copy the "MID range" build from here: http://www.build-gaming-computers.com/gaming-desktop-computer.html.
Now, while they call for this optical drive: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4829307 ,
I can only find this one: http://www.mwave.com.au/sku-17040351-Lite-On_IHAS124_Internal_SATA_24x_Super-Multi_DVD_Rewriter_-_OEM_Black_%28IHAS124-
(I'm in Australia, hence the different websites)

Basically it's part number IHAS124-04 vs. IHAS124-OEM(BLK), very similar... but different enough maybe? Are they interchangeable???

If anyone can shed any light on this, it would be very much appreciated.

It's my first post on here too, so please be gentle




The confusing THING about this post is that its marked SOLVED !

Is it solved ??Any DVD burner will work in that setup...they are universal...
It doesn't need to be a specific Part #...

The only thing to decide is whether you WANT a single or Dual layer DVD burner
Single stores approx.4.2G per DVD
Dual stores approx 8.4G per disc.Quote from: patio on January 06, 2012, 07:27:01 AM

Dual stores approx 8.4G per disc.

Hello,

I installed a 1 Tb hard drive some time ago and partitioned it into 3 sectors. I now want to resize those sectors as the "c" drive is in need of more SPACE. How can this be done safely with Windows XP and how can I display my current sector sizes please ?

At 80 years of age I need help !Here's one option for you: http://www.partition-tool.com/personal.htm. You need to download it and then install it and RUN it to resize your partitions. Hello Soybean and many thanks for your suggestion. You will see from my question that my Operating System is Windows XP and I wonder if the suggested software will be compatible ?

Certainly appreciate all help !!

Regards, HappichapHi Happichap,

I BELIEVE it's never a good idea to re size partitions without backing up the data first. If there is any problems with the partition structure the re size either won't work or will corrupt the data . Also if the power is lost at certain stages this can cause problems. If possible perhaps get another 1 TB harddrive and image the old drive to the new with re size of the partitions. For this I would use Ghost but this isn't free. There are other free PROGRAMS LIKE g4linux but they are complicated to use but will achieve the same result.
By doing the change to another drive you will still have the original if something goes wrong.
PS If you are going to use ghost to help avoid mistakes either get a drive from a different make or different size to the 1 TB .




Lisa

It's a great feeling...Received the PSU yesterday (Installed it, and everything was working fine)
Received the GPU today! yaaay
I'm going to install it now! the graphic card is sooo BEAUTIFUL!! installed the two Fans, the PSU and the graphic card
Updated the latest GPU DRIVER from nVidia.
But Windows Update SUGGEST me an optional driver for the GPU... ?? I didn't want to install it... what do you think? Because I installed the latest driver from nVidia...

I will put the RAM, and that's it! I have to get an additional 2GB RAM, but only DDR2 is appropriate.

And how about an nVidia Geforce GT440.... that's the most affordable 1GB DDR5 I've found

But doing that... is it going to strengthen my GAME playing shows a lot? or just a little bit ?
Quote

I have to get an additional 2GB RAM, but only DDR2 is appropriate.

And how about an nVidia Geforce GT440.... that's the most affordable 1GB DDR5 I've found

But doing that... is it going to strengthen my game playing shows a lot? or just a little bit ?

man i swear, really no one reads. I said if your problem is identical to mine, CAUSE if it is then it is your motherboard. man read!!!Well that would be like SAYING "if you had the same DINNER as me then it was a "tuna fish tomatoe cheese and peanut butter sandwich"....

Not many people would admit to that...let alone try it...Quote from: superman54 on April 30, 2010, 12:37:20 PM

if your problem is the same as mine its your motherboard.

I changed the motherboard to this old computer I have, it boots up normal, but when I try to open any program or a folder it takes up to 15 minutes to open. I'm not exagerating, I click on programs or folders, I go do SOMTHING else and when I come back it still hasn't opened ANYTHING. I did a fresh install of WINDOWS xp, and tested other hard drives to see if that was the problem, but no luck. Also, I don't believe is malware because I just did a fresh install of windows xp and I haven't installed anything on that computer. Any help?Did you install the chipset drivers for the NEW motherboard?yeah, I did.What else is running in the BACKGROUND?Well, I'm on another computer right now, but I don't think anything else is running, since I haven't installed anything on that computer, everything is at defaults. I'll check what is running in the background as soon as I can and let you know. Thanks.Since you just did a new install I'd do it again. Format and install. Then install all drivers beginning with the chipset driver.

I have a Compaq EVO W4000, in place running 2008 Data Center. Thing is that it would have ISSUES booting. I thought that in part it
was faulty RAM or rather I tried to make it faster as well. Thing is that I can start it but, it wont do the ram check an wont go beyond
it. I know if its a bad CPU, it wouldnt even show any of that.issues booting? Are you getting any errors on the screen? How do you know the CPU is bad? What have you tried so far with this machine?

I mentioned what was happening. If the cpu was bad it wouldnt post anything. I tried differnt memory :/ I have a REPLACEMENT motherboard comeing next weekBest not to get huffy with all the broken dinosaurs you ask for assistance on here...

Just a polite heads up.Quote

I tried to make it faster as well

If you mean you overclocked, have you reset the BIOS back to normal?

I have a replacement motherboard comeing next week

nope, seemly the motherboard has got ESD but, I dont know for sure

My cousin gave me her laptop to look at. It is a hp pavilion dv7-1464nr. It has gone through a fire about a year ago. Obviously the laptop got wet, and after she dried it out, it would not work. Now I would have thrown the thing out, but she couldn't bring herself to do it. She thought maybe I could use some of the parts out of it and gave it to me.

When I got it, I tried to turn it on. The LIGHTS would come on briefly, then it would shut down. So I took it all apart, found 1 cable for the speakers that was not hooked up, and put it back together. I tried to boot to the windows disk, and low and behold, it worked. It tried to install windows, but the hard drive was shot. I figured it would be but I wanted to see if I could get it to work before investing any money in it. So I bought a hard drive with the thought that if I couldn't get the thing going, I could put the hard drive in my laptop for data.

I got the hard drive today and and it STARTED to install windows. Ran for about 20 - 30 min. and just quit. My first thought was maybe overheating but when I had it apart I reapplied the thermal paste to the cpu. Fan appears to be working ALSO. So I tried it again and this time it shut down sooner, maybe after 10 min.

When I try to restart it, it does nothing until I unplug the charger from the laptop. Then it will start and I can plug it back in. I have tried 2 chargers with the same result. Any thoughts on this? I am thinking maybe the Mother board. I do get a checksum error when I start also. Could the CMOS battery make it shut down?Try with battery in & battery out.I got it to work 1 time with the battery out. Lasted about 10 min. I edited original my post.

I have a video saved onto an HP - 8GB USB FLASH Drive. It`s 4.06 GB, it`s in .mov format and it plays on QuickTime. I just opened it on my Mac OS X to make sure it WORKS. It opens, but I don`t see video or HEAR audio. All I see are the video buttons (play/stop/ff/rewind) and the timer. When I hit the play BUTTON the timer begins but as I said I see no video and hear no audio. What am I doing wrong?

Thats what my computer says when I turn it on. Oh and ya.. there is a "Shutting down in 15 sec" message. I tried by unplugging all the usb cables but it didnt work. What could it be? Ahh why did it have to be today . The computer was working fine yesterday, I have changed nothing on it. Actually Ive barely used it yesterday o.0. Whats going on here.. My motherboard is ASUS CrossFireX Ready (I think lol ;P)

P.S. Is it ok to have my computer on a carpet?Can you provide the full system specs please. Hardware and software.Quote from: Mulreay on May 28, 2010, 12:11:27 PM

Can you provide the full system specs please. Hardware and software.

P.S. Is it ok to have my computer on a carpet?

In my opinion, NO!. (1) Depending on the depth of the carpet pile, air inlet holes in the bottom of the computer can get blocked. Cases usually have rubber feet to raise the case slightly. A carpet can cancel this out. (2) Fibres of carpet material can get sucked in and block fans, clog up heatsinks, etc. So maybe you should investigate if overheating has occurred and if necessary clean out the computer (carefully!)

I am planning on building a gaming PC with a budget of around $900, I have chosen the Nvidia GeForce GTX 560 TI graphics card, Intel Core i5-2500K processor and the MSI P67A-GD55 motherboard. Now I'm just choosing which version of the graphics card to get, I am thinking of getting the Leadtek GeForce GTX560TI. Is this a good choice?This could have been BETTER served all in one Topic.

However...carry on...SORRY about that, I'm new here

Quote from: patio on January 06, 2012, 11:48:05 PM

This could have been better served all in one Topic.

However...carry on...