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My wife's HP laptop with Vista has been slowing WAY down since she got her iPhone-which started downloading many apps. I went to command line and RAN services.msc and counted 9 that were running. There is not enough room to list them all here-I would like to UNINSTALL as many as possible but don't know what to do. Apparently Apple likes to loadup PCs so that they bog down and the user will give up and buy an Apple laptop to support their iPhones and other peripherals. Anybody got any ideas? I can provide a list of the apps showing. thanks Are you talking about ITUNES? Apps do not download by themselves. If you mean iTunes is bogging the computer down then that makes sense. iTunes is a HARDY resource hog and it is known to tax the CPU and memory on a PC. What I would do is open iTunes, click the edit button and preferences. Click the store tab and uncheck download pre-purchased content. I don't think that is your problem though, so next, click the START button and type in "msconfig" w/o the quotes, click the start up tab and find anything thing that is related to iTunes or iphone or Apple that is starting up and uncheck it to disable it from starting up when you turn the computer on. Go to Start -->Control Panel -->Programs -->Programs and Features. Find the programs you want to uninstall and choose Uninstall.

When I go to wikapedia and look up HyperTransport I see all the specs.

What does it meens when it gives Max. Link WIDTH 32 Bit???
And what is Max. Aggregate Bandwidth MEEN???
Anyone?Anyone??What are you trying to do, or trying to find out?what that meens I looked up Hypertransport and it gives these pecs I would like to know how to read them???http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Throughputok I WENT to the link you gave and I think I get it now please tell me if I am right?

Hypertransport 1.0

max FREQ. 800 MHz is the how many cycles per sec it runs at how many times per sec it can move Data am I right?

max Link width 32 Bit meens it moves Data in 32 Bit CHUNKS and I right??

max aggregate Bandwidth Bi Direction is the Total Data in both directions AMD I right???

"hyper transport" is AMD's version of "hyper threading"

Look on intel's website there is a good video diagram teaching you about Hyper threading. it's basically 1 CPU with 1 core but it has a second thread meaning it can process information alot faster than if it only had 1 thread.

Merlynthanks but am I right??To a certain degree... i will drag up the video and paste a link

I've WORKED on many supposedly dead external HDD's that when removed from the enclosure and hooked up internally were perfectly fine...
I sincerely HOPE you have the same luck in this case.i have not had a chance to address this, but I think I am going to remove the HDD from it's enclosure this weekend and see if I can connect directly. See here.thanks for the link. i removed the HDD from the enclosure and tried to connect directly. that didn't work. i installed into another enclosure and it recognized it as a USB mass media device, but still nothing in windows explorer and nothing in DISK management.

should i bother with the freezing thing?
a friend TOLD me about some expensive software you can buy to recover the files?
should i just take it to a professional?

I recently acquired this device and would like to use it on a Windows desktop (O/S XP). I do realize it is intended for use on a MAC. When i tried inserting it into a Dell XPS the message i get is that it has too much power for the port it is plugged into. Then there are SPECIFIC warnings presented that warn of nasty events if i do NOT remove it in a very defined manner. Which i did and the computer seems to have survived with no adverse effects. It was recognized at the installation stage as "new hardware found" and it was identified correctly (as a generic USB device). Then came the warning. Is it possible that this device is only capable of functioning on a Mac? Are Apple USB ports different somehow? truenorthIt's a USB1.1 device. Mac & PC are the same. Given the message you're getting, it could be defective.Thanks Com-Com,I thought that they SHOULD be interchangeable however was not SURE. I suspect that your right defective. TruenorthYou might be CAREFUL about leaving anything plugged into it with the message you are getting about power.

Several years ago on an older MACHINE with the only USB ports on the back, I had a powered USB hub and kept a thumb drive plugged into all the time. One day the thumb drive wasn't responding. Both the hub and thumb drive had melted.It has gone to the great USB reward in the sky for eternity.Saved the power supply and the USB cable.truenorth

How do I burn a dvd r/w SYSTEM disk for my HP PAVILLION Win. Vista? The hard drive is starting to humm. I looked on the START menu but didn't see ANYTHING however I have seen the menu tab for this in the past. How many disks do I need and where do I GO to get started? Thanks!!http://www.appscout.com/2009/04/macrium_reflect_backs_up_your.php
truenorth

My OS is Windows 7, which I recently intalled to replace VISTA. Since installing, I can't print. I can't install or uninstall a printer. When I TRY to, it tells me my print spooler isn't running. When I go to the print spooler and hit "start" it attempts to start it, but IMMEDIATELY stops. I TRIED to stop it, which I could do when I turned off the printer (Lexmark), but then it would not let me restart it, giving me the same error. Any thoughts? maybe you need to update the DRIVER that is compatible with Windows 7. I don't know the model number of your printer but I guess you can start with going to....


http://support.lexmark.com/index?page=home&locale=EN&userlocale=EN_US&segment=DOWNLOAD

the printer is on and it scanned PHOTOS , then i tried to print them and it said

" operation can not be completed , the printer spooler service is not RUNNING "

it has been working fine up to nowTry going to Device Manager and see if there is a driver alert. It will have a yellow flag if there is an issue. You MAY have to uninstall the DRIVERS and then reinstall.Open a command prompt and type 'net stop spooler' and press 'ENTER'.
Then type 'net start spooler' and press enter. Close you DOS window by TYPING 'exit'.

The spooler services should now be running.Quote from: Sodde on June 01, 2010, 03:19:58 PM

Open a command prompt and type 'net stop spooler' and press 'enter'.
Then type 'net start spooler' and press enter. Close you DOS window by typing 'exit'.

The spooler services should now be running.

Don't think it exists...Quote from: patio on June 03, 2010, 09:31:20 AM

Don't think it exists...

I was thinking of SATA GHOST. I'm not sure if it's different or the same.
Sorry if I'm wrong, I may be QUALIFIED, but that doesn't mean anything unless you have experience.

I want to put my old computer, Compaq Presario (which isn't that old) in another part of the house to play music on but when I connect it to a monitor -I have TWO that work well-nothing appears on the screen except some squiggly lines-and with the newer monitor nothing at all. Any suggestions on what I can do? The old one started developing some problems with the internet but otherwise worked well off line. As you are undoubtedly aware it is extremely difficult to solve a computer ISSUE without a WORKING monitor. The fact that 2 MONITORS are not working tends toward less of an issue with a monitor and more likely an issue with the VGA card of the computer. This may not be the only thing that can cause the problem but is the easiest to check on. If you can borrow a known working VGA card and install it into the affected computer that would be a good start. I assume that to the extent that you can OBSERVE the computer itself is coming on properly (fans working,keyboard lighting up,lights appearing on the computer tower at start,HDD spinning,etc.)?truenorthQuote from: gord99 on April 30, 2010, 11:09:13 AM

The old one started developing some problems with the internet but otherwise worked well off line.

Dear Computer Experts,
Can I run a Radeon HD 6670 1 GB DDR5 with my motherboard ASUS P5GC-MX/1333 with PCI Express x16 and Intel Core 2 Duo E7200. My CPU SPEED is 2.53 GHz and 4 GB RAM?Should work fine
Depending on your power supply, you may need a larger one. Your system should handle it fine otherwise. Keep an eye out for ventillation as well and make sure you don't overheat anything. Good airflow is key.This card reportedly works on 300W power supplies(read the reviews)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161375
http://www.amazon.com/EAH6670-DIS-1GD5-Radeon-GDDR5/dp/B004X8EODY
I wouldn't be surprised as I have ran a HD 5670 on a 300W power supply before.I'm sure it would mostly work on a 300W, but it is not good on a power supply to be pushing it to the far end of what it is capable of. I would suggest you get at least a 400W if it works fine on a 300, that ways you at least have a little wiggle room and you won't overheat or burn something out due to excess stress on your system.According to CoolerMaster:
http://www.coolermaster.outervision.com/PSUEngine
(1 C2D E7200, 1 Radeon HD 6670, 2 Sticks DDR3, 1 5400RPM HD, 1 DVD+/-RW Burner), the absolute max I would ever need is 250W.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/radeon-hd-6570-radeon-hd-6670-turks,2925-15.html
Their test setup for a HD 6670, GT 240, HD 6570, HD 5670, HD 5770 and GTS 450 never even passed 200Wunder full load. I do MEAN the entire computer. A GTS 450 rig requiring LESS than 300W on FULL BLAST just boggles my mind. Wasn't even with a Celeron or Pentium, too, it was with a i5-2500K, Asus P8P67-PRO, 2x2GB OCZ PC3-16000, 750GB WD Caviar Black 7200RPM. I can understand the HD 6670 consuming much less power than quoted; it seems to have been designed for HTPC purposes, but the GTS...

Same goes for the Geeks3D benchmark:
http://www.geeks3d.com/20110516/tested-asus-radeon-hd-6670-review/6/
http://www.geeks3d.com/20110516/tested-asus-radeon-hd-6670-review/3/
With a non SandyBridge i7-920, 4 GB DDR3 Corsair Dominator, Gigabyte X58-A UD5, Asus HD 6670, Furmark at 1920x1080, the entire rig's power consumption was 194W.Very few system configurations will use more than a couple HUNDRED watts. People just like to pretend it does to justify power supplies with bigger numbers on them.

I used the PC Doctor utility that was on the recovery disc I got from HP. The HARD drive test OK as well as the MEMORY and CPU.

What's really weird is that it won't do anything while the computer is cold. No BIOS setup or anything. If I leave the power on a few minutes and then turn it off and then back on, it will start either to the BIOS setup (if no disc in the drive) or to the recovery disc.

Could this be a MB problem since the hardware is testing OK?
Quote from: sam2010 on May 02, 2010, 02:14:16 PM

...What's really weird is that it won't do anything while the computer is cold. No BIOS setup or anything. If I leave the power on a few minutes and then turn it off and then back on, it will start either to the BIOS setup (if no disc in the drive) or to the recovery disc...

ok today my computer crashed and gave me the blue screen "system_service_exception. IM ALSO noticed that firefox is crashing alot ok i finally got it to freeze while paying attention to the temps and everything was NORMAL If it's still under warranty, return it. No GUARANTEE, but it seems likely.ok will do, thanks man you been a really big help, was kinda hoping it wouldn't be that but it is what it is
Let us know the outcome.

Hi there everyone. A couple months ago I posted on here regarding a problem that I was having with my current motherboard. The problem was that every single one of my USB ports will not recognize any device plugged into them. It happened all of a sudden when I came back from school one day while the computer was already on. I tried a ton of things to fix it, ranging from getting a PS/2 adapter so I could try to get into the BIOS(which still wasn't recognized btw) to the magical "cycling the power" cure that so many people with a similar problem have use. I ended up just buying a PCI USB adapter card and the computer has been doing what I need it to ever since, with the exception that I can no longer access the BIOS at all. If you were wondering my current motherboard is a Gigabyte EP45-UD3L that I bought last summer. Not even a year old.

Anyway, I'm on the verge of buying some new parts apart from a new mobo and I just wanted to ask and see if anyone had any recommendations as to whether I should just get the new mobo or if there is still something I haven't tried with this one. To be honest I'd rather not spend the money, but if need be then I will. Any help would be greatly APPRECIATED. Thanks alot

cldd5678HUH?
There are a has been a blah blah blah of comments on this subject. Was it you?
So you're now telling us that Windows would come up and RUN your system and recognize the keyboard is plugged into a PCI USB adapter. Is that right? But you still cannot get into the BIOS no matter what?

If there is an answer more than what we have suggested here in this form it would have to be on the manufacturers website.

Here is the general procedure we use bring up a motherboard that acts like it's not working quite right.

Make sure we have adequate power supply. We disconnect everything from the motherboard but the very bare essentials. You start out with just a monitor nothing else. Absolutely. Power up the system and see if we get the welcome screen on the monitor. If we get that far, the motherboard is not dead and most of it is working.

Next step is to power down completely and plug in a floppy drive and get the floppy drive properly configured. And while we're at it, we REMOVE all power from the system. Really, all power. The power cord is PULLED out, not shut off by a switch. We wait and take out the CMOS battery and if there is a jumper for discharging the CMOS we put the jumper on for a few seconds and take it off.

Then we put the battery back in. Then plug the cord back in, turn on the power and watched to see if the thing is trying to read from the floppy. If we get to that point it's pretty fair to say that the motherboard is working and the principle circuits are working properly.

Did you actually do that? That is a standard procedure used in the service shop to check out a questionable motherboard.

When the BIOS does NOT find the keyboard and can NOT find a boot device, it will turn on legacy USB support and find the keyboard. If not, either the keyboard is marginal or the BIOS is not up to DATE or is a wimpy BIOS. We do not think Gigabyte would put a wimpy BIOS in a motherboard.



Wow...Quote from: patio on June 12, 2010, 12:48:49 AM

Wow...

When the BIOS does NOT find the keyboard and can NOT find a boot device, it will turn on legacy USB support and find the keyboard.

the computer has been doing what I need it to ever since

Okay we have a Hp Office Jet J4680 All In One. A few days ago the printer said a paper was jammed so I pulled it out (I found out tonight that you should take it out the back...oops!) anyway I have cleared all paper but it still make a heavy jamming noise!
I don't know if the rolls need to be PUT in PLACE,oiled or something.
Oh and the screen has a little thing on the bottom that is TWO balls on top of each other and a lightning BOLT type thing coming out ( I don't know if it is the sign for the jam or what)

Any help would be very much appreciated!!!http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c01770356.pdf
Please see Section 8(Maintain and Troubleshoot)>Clear JAMS

GeForce GTX 460
EVGA P55 MICRO


Recently I have obtained a Black Magic Intensity Pro and I am trying to install it on my computer. I have not had a problem with my computer at all, but to install the Black Magic(because the GTX 460 is bulky), I had to move the GTX 460 from the PCIE slot above the PCIE-Mini (which I need for the Black Magic), to the PCIE slot underneath it. My screen works and I can boot my computer in safe mode no problem, but for some reason it wont let WINDOWS start in normal mode. I've tried uninstalling the driver and reinstalling it and it still doesn't work. My computer recognizes the driver but for some reason it won't properly work. I'm not sure what to do. Someone please make my Christmas and help me out :/ EVGA P55 is motherboard.
Expansion Slots:
3x PCIe x16/x8, 2x PCIe x8, 1 x PCIe x4, 1 x PCIe x1

Black Magic Intensity Pro is PCI-e x 1 ("PCIE-Mini") - install in the small black slot.

Graphics card uses PCIex16, the slots are labeled, looks like the top red one. I see 7 slots, there is nothing above the x1.
I use the Micro Board. It looks different. http://www.evga.com/articles/00502/micro/Quote

but for some reason it wont let windows start in normal mode.

There are no other cards on my computer :/

Have you disabled onboard graphics, just to make sure?
You may have an IRQ conflict with another device on your computer:
http://kadaitcha.cx/xp/irq_conflicts.html

Yes i've tried that.

Is that better Mr. Mod?

Ok, so here's my problem. I currently have two computers; one with Win 7, 2.6GB quad core, 12 GB ram, 1GB GeForce GPU, 750W PSU; the other with Winxp, 2.9 GB single core, 1.5 GB ram, 256 MB ATI All-in-wonder GPU/tuner, and 750 W PSU. I have been trying desperately to get my older xp machine to run a program called XBMC on my tv so I can use it as an HTPC. This computer is a little too slow in the processing department to run HD movies at full frame rates though. My new computer is more than capable of it, but is used as my main computer.

I have decided I can use my new computer to run both Windows 7, and XBMC live on a virtual OS if I can find a way around a few hardware problems. My Geforce video card only has DVI output, while my older, slower ATI card has a component output. The hdmi input on my TV no longer functions, so the only way for me to get HD is through component. As far as I have figured so far I have to use my ATI card to be able to display to my TV, but don't want to loose out on the performance of my GeForce card unless absolutely nescessary. Is it possible to make my main windows OS use one video card, while a virtual OS uses the other. Would 750 watts cut it or would I have to run a secondary PSU. Both cards recommend no less than 450 Watts and I will soon be adding several hard drives for media storage. Thanks in advance for any help or advice. I would recommend a new TV or a TV repair shop. The quality of a S-video connection is a lot lower than that of HDMI/DVI. I can't seem to find any consistent figures for the difference but never mind. So the quality of any HD video you play will be down scaled.

I already have a computer with two Os's and an old spare Geforce 7900 to attempt this with if someone will recommend it not to be a horrifyingly bad idea.

[Lol, spell check on "S-video". Did you mean "Soviet"?]Unfortunately money is something I just don't have at the moment and won't have for quite some time (wifey just started going to school.) However it's not an S-video connection I want as that won't offer any resolutions above 480p. I have a component output (YB Pb PR) which easily offers 1080i resolutions at equal quality to HDMI picture resolutions. One solution I have been looking into is a DVI to component adapter. I have found such devices that are compatible with ATI cards, and they are reasonably priced at around $20. I haven't been able to find such devices for my GeForce card though as this is the one I would need it for. Sorry, don't know where I got S-video tangent from from. Anyway if you're talking about these things then they are compatible with any graphics card: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-DVI-I-RCA-YUV-Plugs/dp/B000GIIQN4 (sorry about UK page but it gives a good illustration and also features an audio adapter).Thanks for the link, that's pretty much what I was looking at before too.....after looking into this more I don't believe it will be a solution. My graphics card would have to output a YbPbPr format through the dvi connector for these adapters to function. After searching it looks like it is only some ATI cards which work in this way. My GeForce card outputs a purely digital signal through the DVI connector to the best of my knowledge. I'll see if I can find a reciever type of converter at a reasonble price. It would have to be something that can take the digital DVI signal and convert it to an analog video stream, just like an audio reciever would do....but cheaper. Quote from: jlewin_80 on June 13, 2010, 12:53:55 AM

Is it possible to make my main windows OS use one video card, while a virtual OS uses the other.

Not sure if this makes any difference but hardware acceleration is not what I'm looking for as XBMC does not yet harness the GPU for graphics acceleration, all transcoding is done by the cpu, I just need the ATI card for my display output.

Ok so if I understand this correctly.......I would install my ATI card and catalyst drivers into Win 7, then install a virtual OS. Windows 7 setup should remain as is for display configuration. On my virtual OS I would open up the catalyst drivers and set up my display output to component. Adjusting display output on VOS should leave all settings the same on my main OS. For some reason this sounds a little too simple.

BC_Programmer.....sorry for my stupidity here, somethings not clicking. I understand what your saying now, but don't understand how this would work. If I install ati card with catalyst control center, would my computer and main monitor still function from my GeForce card without conflict, mean while I could set my second monitor to be displayed from the ATI card. Sounds easy enough I suppose.

one more note to BC_Programmer.......it's a small world, I just noticed your from nanaimo BC....me too. Haha, what are the chances.

I'm trying to repair a friend's Compaq Presario C300, but I have a feeling the hard drive is completely dead. When you try to boot the pc, you get that screen telling you the pc was shut down incorrectly and asking which mode you want to start it in (safe mode, COMMAND prompt, etc), but no matter which you select, it simply restarts and repeats the same process. I was able to get it going using a boot diagnostic disc, but was unable to locate any of her documents, which led me to the believe the hdd was gone. I then tried to just do a clean reinstall of windows and got the message that there was no hard drive located, which sounds pretty definitive to me. So anyway, other than what I've done, is there anything else to check to make 100% sure the hdd is bad?

Also, I've replaced hard drives on desktops before, but never in a laptop, is it pretty much the same process?Hi,

No its not the same as Desktop, Removing Harddrive is very much different in Laptop as compare to laptop.
you can do one go to google & check how to remove itIt very much sounds like the HD is dead but when you say that you were "unable to locate any of her documents" were you able to see the hard drive (i.e. C:\)?
Also, you could take a look in the BIOS to see if its viewable there.

I'd take the drive out and make sure there's nothing loose of visibly wrong. Although different to a Desktop, it really no harder to replace, just make sure you get the same physical size and type of drive. Here's a manual with details on how to take the drive out Section 5-7 to 5-9.
h t t p://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c00753552.pdf

Take the spaces out of 'HTTP' above before copying it into a web browser. Of COURSE it depends on the laptop, but replacing anything on a laptop is similar to working on a desktop, EXCEPT, taking a laptop apart ( and putting it back together) is a lot harder due to the size of the components, and how they are crammed together.

Working on a desktop is kind of like being an auto mechanic, while working on a laptop is more like being a watch repairer.Here is a suggestion.
First, carefully open up the laptop and find out exactly what type of drive it has in it. Many of the older laptop hard drives are 2 1/2 inch drives with the connector that looks very much like the standard IDE connector, but there is no power connector. The power actually goes through the connector that looks like the standard ribbon connector. If so, then you can find replacement drives available from the major vendors on the Internet. Also, you can buy an adapter that converts the 2 1/2 inch laptop drive to the standard connector used on many desktops, the IDE connector. Most desktops still have IDE connectors inside, so you could hook up her old drive to the adapter and with the proper cable plug it into a desktop turn it on and see if the operating system will recognize a second drive in the system. Just possibly you might be able to recover some of her DATA. Hard to say.
Anyway, having an extra laptop drive an adapter cable is a good investment. Very handy thing to have when friends ask you to fix their laptops.
Update time:

I decided to replace the HD, she wanted the largest one available, so I purchased a Western Digital WD5000BEVT 500gb drive. I removed the original drive and installed the new one, but now what? When I try to install Windows, it tells me there is no drive. I figure there is a driver set I probably need for the computer, but I haven't been able to find anything specific. I did find a list of drivers on the Compaq SITE and downloaded them all (not sure which ones I needed), but when I made a bootable disc with them, a bunch of DOS text comes up, then I get the message "Search for USB HDD Devices... USB support successfully initialized... No NTFS volumes found, exiting..."

Any suggestions? I've replaced desktop hard drives before and never had any problems, though those always came with driver discs. I checked Western Digital's site and they say "Most WD drives do not include drivers because they use a standard driver built into the operating system".

Help! I think I got it. Per what I read here http://www.mydigitallife.info/2007/10/23/windows-xp-setup-could-not-detect-and-find-any-sata-hard-disk-drive-on-ahci-mode/I went into the BIOS and disabled SATA and now the Windows install seems to be proceeding normally. Keeping my fingers crossed...

Hi, my old COMPUTER boots to BIOS, sometimes it doesn't boot at all, sometimes i need to reset defaults then boot it twice, then after prompted to hi F1 Widows will start, it seems random. What could this be battery ? (i CHANGED the HD but same problem)

Pentium 4, 2.4GHz, 1gig RAM, Windows XP service pack 2

advice very APPRECIATED, thanks,
RobCMOS battery...part # CR2032 ...available anywhere.

I just built a PC for my brother for Xmas and I'm running into a problem. I put everything together and the PC will flip on for about a second and then shut off. The fans whir and the light comes on but then simply STOPS. I took everything apart and put it back together again to make sure I had installed everything correctly but it continues the same behavior. The components are:

- Intel Core i5-2500 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500

- CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B

- BIOSTAR TZ68A+ LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

- MSI N560GTX-TI Twin Frozr II/OC GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

- Seagate Barracuda Green ST2000DL003 2TB 5900 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

- ASUS Black 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 12X DVD-RAM 8X BD-ROM 8MB Cache SATA Blu-ray Burner BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS - OEM

- Antec EarthWatts EA-500D Green 500W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

- Thermaltake V3 Black Edition VL80001W2Z Black SECC / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer CaseSorry false alarm. I just figured out the right cord to hook into the ATXPWR2 port.

Hello, wanted to ask whether these temp readings are normal for an i7 860 processor:



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

didnt add other details regarding my unit SINCE i think its unnecessary, please tell me if ANYTHING is neededhttp://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Core_i7/Intel-Core%20i7-860%20BV80605001908AK%20%28BX80605I7860%20-%20BXC80605I7860%29.htmlTDP = 95W
Temps look normal for that kind of power, about the same as a P4 SINGLE core.thanks for replying..
just that i remembered when i first bought my unit it was around 30-40 (now its 40-50), should i be worrying about this??Not much to worry about, but you should clean inside the case, once in a while, using a can of compressed air (and nothing else).Quote from: BRONI on June 11, 2010, 10:35:56 PM

Not much to worry about, but you should clean inside the case, once in a while, using a can of compressed air (and nothing else).

I have an R1900 which I purchased from brand new on Ebay. Epson will not honor the warranty, and as I am stationed in Germany there is no where I can take it since it's U.S. specs.

First: When I turn it on the "Paper/Trash Can" light blinks on and off. I have gone through all the steps with Epson Tech support, but nothing WORKS. There is no paper in the printer. I think the only thing I haven't done is use CANNED air. I'll get some tomorrow.

Has anyone else had this problem? I've had this thing since March 2011, and NEVER been able to print. Now I have a new born, and REALLY REALLY want to print some pics of him.

Any help would be much appreciated.Such a shame that you are experiencing these problems on what certainly was NOT an inexpensive printer. Unfortunately most of the reviews (other than the product promotion on the Epson site) are not favourable about it.You say that you bought it new so was there any warranty provided? I am including a review recommendation for you to read (pay particular attention to page 2). Generally the type of problem you are having is related to IMPROPER installation SEQUENCE when 1st installing it. So if you have the manual please read it CAREFULLY as there can be warnings as to how the sequence is to be followed. I would have assumed that the Epson tech support would have investigated that with you. Was the purchase from an individual or a commercial source that was selling through E-bay? truenorth
http://www.photo-i.co.uk/Reviews/interactive/Epson%20R1900/page2.html

Hi, I couldn't find anything about my problem, PROBABLY because I'm not sure exactly how to search for it.

I have a 1.5TB external HARD drive (only a few months old), connected to my vista laptop via USB. It has a large amount of data on it 800GB+, mostly in a videos folder. I can acess all the other folders, and files, however whenever I try to access the videos folder, I get a message telling me that the drive needs to be unformatted. I was using this drive with no problems up until yesterday.

I have tried looking at the folders permissions and all seem fine - I'm a bit confused because it is just the one folder, the others seem fine. I have also tried running the error checker, and rebooting ETC, but I am way out of my depth here.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!!

Thanks

abiits probably the SIZE of the file Is drive formatted FAT32 or NTFS? FAT32 file size is limited to 4GB minus 2 Bytes. NTFS limit only by
volume size.Quote from: abagail on June 10, 2010, 12:06:40 AM

I get a message telling me that the drive needs to be unformatted.

My computer restarts itself. I have had this problem before and was advised to change my RAM. I have done that and my comp. was running fine for a few weeks, and now has started shutting down again. I gives me a different ERROR than it did the first time I had problems. The blue screen errors now has PFN_LIST_CORRUPT and the codes on bottom are STOP: 0x0000004E (0x0000008F, 0x0001DCBE, 0x000102BE, 0x00000000). Can anyone offer any suggestions on what might be the problem.

ThankyouThat error continues to indicate a ram problem. Run a diagnostic on the ram (you can download and run memtest). You can also update all drivers and check for a bios update.To diagnose RAM while booting press ESC then look for the test.

OR

You could take out your RAM and place it back in. Ignore the above advice and just download and run memtestPeople these days are very eager to suspect RAM as a culprit for mysterious, irregular lock-ups, restarts etc and although it's something that you shouldn't discount as a cause, there are other things you should check before blaming RAM for your issues.
Although software testing of RAM and memtest in general is very good at diagnosing memory issues, it relies on one very important aspect to give accurate results......it should be run on a PC that has no other physical/hardware/software issues. Anything else and you could end up with tainted results.
I've personally had 2 cases this year where people have replaced RAM because of crashes/lock-ups and it didn't cure their problem. In one case, bad caps could be seen on a 5 year old motherboard and when the motherboard was replaced, no more problems. In the other case, the PSU was giving inconsistant +5 voltage and when the PSU was replaced, the issue was gone. I bought the RAM that they'd replaced from them for cheap!
I've worked with computers for over 15 years and in that time, I can count on my hands how many times RAM has been the culprit of problems such as these and much less in the last five years.
I apologize for rambling on here but in closing, be a little more open in what you suspect and have good reason to suspect it but don't discount other possibilities without investigating first. Also, always do the obvious stuff like checking connection and slot/chip seating before moving on to individual component analysis. I am neither a hardware expert nor am I prone to suspecting ram problems at every turn. The fact is that the error message reported by the OP points to a likely problem with memory (though it certainly could be something else). The obvious and correct first troubleshooting step is to rule ram in or out as the culprit.Personally, I differ in my assumption of "first troubleshooting steps".

Step 1 Rule out the obvious (voltages into and out of the PSU, visual inspection of components, physical inspection of fit of components and cables, etc, etc).

Like I said, memtest wont see good RAM if its not getting the right voltage. Yes, by all means - the user should invest in a voltmeter and take off the cover and play with all internal parts instead of first running a simple diagnostic utility."memtest " :
Is there need to download this program in Windows 7. Or the Program is built-in - Memory Diagnostic -Quote from: moro on June 07, 2010, 07:48:13 AM

"memtest " :
Is there need to download this program in Windows 7. Or the Program is built-in - Memory Diagnostic -

Thank you
I am talking about myself

Step 1 Rule out the obvious (voltages into and out of the PSU, visual inspection of components, physical inspection of fit of components and cables, etc, etc).

The bottom line to this issue Allan is that there's no simple answer. That's why people pay tech's like me who invest in the equipment necessary to make a proper diagnosis when they've been out an bought memory because memtest told them the memory was bad.

I have an AMD A-3850 APU (CPU with a built in GPU), and it supports crossfire with 6450, 6570, and 6670. Basically I would like to know if I can USE this card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102958 . It and many other cards in this price rage say they have no CrossFireX support, does this mean I can't use them to crossfire with my apu. or is that TALKING about crossfire with another gpu or what, because I believe crossfire with an apu just happens throught the PCI 2.1 thingamajig er whatever. also, should I opt for the ddr5 or ddr3, because I could get ddr3 like $20 cheaper, but O THINK I should get ddr5.Crossfire requires 2 vid cards with the same Chipset...
Onboard is irrelevant in this equation.

Just a heads up...The AMD A series APU's are cpu's with a quality gpu on the same die (Radeon 6550 in my case). The apu can be crossfired with those three gpu's mentioned. I think you just put the discreet card in and then enable crossfire, NUT am not sure.Yes it does support what is called Hybrid Crossfire/Dual Graphics.
http://www.amd.com/us/products/technologies/dual-graphics/Pages/dual-graphics.aspx
Quote from: maxcheese3 on December 24, 2011, 04:24:24 PM

The AMD A series APU's are cpu's with a quality gpu on the same die (Radeon 6550 in my case). The apu can be crossfired with those three gpu's mentioned. I think you just put the discreet card in and then enable crossfire, nut am not sure.

I paid for and downloaded two Nancy Drew games off of STEAM after realizing that my disk does not work when I try and play that way. Either way, when I click play, the first screen with the magnifying class on BOTH games FREEZES and if I click or shrink it, and pull it back up again, the next screen comes up but it's still frozen. HOW DO I FIX THIS !!? My operating SYSTEM is a WINDOWS 7 and all of my computer is up to date.What are the specs of your computer? You can find them out with http://www.piriform.com/speccy
Have you installed the LATEST DIRECTX version that your computer supports?

I'd like to replace a couple of 300 GB HDs in my computer with larger ones. I can see the size and specs of the 5 current drives under the "manage" menu.... identified as Disk 0, Disk 1, etc.

But when I open up the case, how do I identify which drive is which?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Bill

I hope that for your sake these HDDs have some different CHARACTERISTICS IE: different brands, different SIZES, SATA vs Non SATA. Then running the free copy of Everest http://majorgeeks.com/download4181.html
should help you to identify which is which.truenorthQuote from: billmatthiesen on June 03, 2010, 08:35:40 AM

...But when I open up the case, how do I identify which drive is which?...

Hi,
I have PENTIUM D 820 (SmithField) 2.8 GHz INSTALLED on Asterope2-GL8E motherboard.
I used Everest home 200, Open Hardware MONITOR and CPU Thermometer to monitor CPU temp.
But only Open Hardware monitor displayed the result ( seems to be wrong). Others can't FIND SENSOR on my computer.

Do I need any extra hardware to monitor my CPU Temperature.

Thanks for your help.Try SpeedFan and Speccy ...and post your results.I tried them but no use.

Thanks for your suggestion. Is there something along the lines of "Hardware Monitor" in your BIOS?

i am running windows xp sp3 professional on a WESTERN digital 250 gb hdd
and my COMPUTER wont turn on. is it a motherboard problem? i ordered a new powersupply
and it STILL won't turn on no lights nothing.

My motherboard is a foxconn LGA 775 with a pentium 4 3.4 ghz processor

so before i shell out the 50 dollars for a new motherboard i wanted to make sure that that was what the problem is

thanks for any helpthe mother board could be fried.
get it checked.
and also chech the processor socket.EXACTLY what happens when you try to power up?

Hi-
Our pc was corrupted and we had to REINSTALL windows XP Pro. Everything stayed plugged in as it was prior to the re-install, but now it wont detect the speakers, WEBCAM or microphone.
If I go into the control PANEL into the sound/audio tab, every button is inactive- it wont let me change or add anything and just says that there is no audio device, no sound device, no recording device.
Any help would be great- Did you reinstall all drivers?I did, but the hardware is all plug and play and the pc wont even recognise they are there...I'm going to BET you forgot to install the chipset driver.Do you KNOW that make and model of your machine? Or at least the motherboard?

Hi I have A 3month OLD Inspirion 1545. I dropped it shattered MTHE SCREEN.I replaced the screen and now no backllight I was told check the inverter but I dont believe this screen type has 1. The shattered screen stiil lit up after I dropped it now neither screen has backlighting. Ihave checked all connections Its only 3 months old but is it worth fixing if so any ideas on how? thanksAre you sure you have replaced the screen with the same one? Same part number?
If so, recheck your connections are good.
Some other things to check;

1 With the laptop POWERED up, use a flashlight on the screen and see if you can make out
any images, i.e. if you can see windows working.
2 If available, connect an EXTERNAL monitor/lcd to check if you are getting a good signal.

Quote from: Computer_Commando on June 03, 2010, 04:57:00 PM

OK. A science experiment! I don't BELIEVE it's a solvable problem. The motherboard that is supplied to Gateway has a very limited number of hardware variations. If you can determine make & model of motherboard, you may be able to FIND someone who has "hacked the BIOS" successfully. There is a chance that the mobo is supplied to SEVERAL manufacturers that each have their own BIOS. I have a computer in a similar situation but am not willing to flash the BIOS as an experiment.

I will look for MB info and post it if I find it. I am beginning to think that I have a faulty CPU or motherboard that as you stated "is unsolvable".

Mother board is "Intel E210882"
There is some other numbers on white labels also which is:

4000811
ABRG32847628 AA C29595-101

I don't know what the latter numbers are for!

http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/sb/cs-009009.htm

Is this your motherboard? Your chipset P/N will identify which. 845GL or 865GV.
http://downloadmirror.intel.com/15203/eng/D865GVHZ_ProductGuide01_English.pdf
OR
http://downloadmirror.intel.com/15212/eng/D845GLVA_ProductGuide_English.pdf

cpu bus speeds celeron 400 MHz, p4 800 MHz, therefore P4 runs at half speed.

From personal experience I can tell you that even if you achieve this (yes, it is possible on certain MB-CPU combinations), you will more than likely encouter intermittant issues with such things as USB, AGP, PCI Bus errors etc causing fatal errors and BSOD's.
If its purely a 'science project' then have at it but be warned, you could invest a lot of time getting the CPU running at the right speed, only to find its unusable.

A 2.6 Celeron at full speed is going to be MUCH faster than a P4 running at 1.3 GHz.

Thank you, what difference does a 512 cache make as to a 128 cache CPU in performance?

pls i need the difference between serial and parallel in terms of data transfer, pc compatibitily. People with ideas should post.http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GGLL_enUS304US305&q=serial+port+vs+parallel+portQuick answer. NEITHER is very useful. Max speed is about 115 thousand bits per second.A USB or Ethernet are better devices for external data transfers.Quote from: Geek-9pm on June 04, 2010, 08:49:18 PM

Quick answer. Neither is very useful. Max speed is about 115 thousand bits per second.A USB or Ethernet are better devices for external data transfers.

Quote from: BC_Programmer on June 02, 2010, 06:54:29 PM

if your CPU is reaching 120c, there is a high chance that there will be permanent damage. (did you mean c or f?)

Sounds to me like you might need to reapply thermal paste if you discovered the heatsink was not fastened securely.

Well here's something to try.

Completely remove the fan, Heatsink (presume it's a desktop) and clean them using a vacuum, or high volume air canister. remove dust and try letting the CPU cool down till you can almost touch it... if the CPU is generating that much heat I'd get oven gloves and completely remove it (make sure you don't put it on anything that will contain static electricity) and leave it to cool down. once it is cool enough to touch (20-30C) then try re-installing CPU, heatsink and fan. and boot. If the same problem occurs I'd consider buying a new CPU?

Merlyn

P.S: Don't FORGET to remove dust

...
1. Another thing when i said that the temp was increasing fast but the CPU was cold like ice.
2. When it was working at my old house i usually open the casing and put a stand fan, the temp will be like 85-95C - is that normal?
3. Do you guys think the Thermometer for the CPU is spoil?..

Sorry for the late reply, i am at College at the moment, when i get home i will try and see if i can look at those video's (probably 5pm today) it's 8:38am right now... Sorry for making you wait... ]

Could be that the diode that reads temperature is fried (but it runs the other CPU fine???)... Do you have another motherboard to try it on?

1. Are you sure the CPU fan is spinning?

I have had an HP Officejet 73100 All In ONE printer since 2007 and have in all that time have used HP genuine print cartridges. But recently the cost is up to £80.00 to replace both colour and B&W cartridges.

So I have for the past few months been using remanufactured ones at a total typical cost of around £28.00 the pair, with to my eyes just as good quality.

However, one DAY recently my printer stopped working and small HP box presented itself on my screen saying something like "Non compatible cartridge detected, please click here to continue..."

Being in the middle of something and busy, like a fool I did. The printer then locked completely and would not work again until I installed the very expensive HP cartridges. In fairness to my supplier they refunded the cost of my refills.

I have spent time uninstalling all the printer software and then trying to REINSTALL from the original discs, but they would not, so have had to reinstall all downloaded form the HP site, and am about to try some again using the remanufactured cartridges. We shall see...

My suppliers advice is if this box appears IGNORE IT and then press and hold down the cancel button on your printer until the message disappears.

The irony of it is I had my printer serviced recently and the engineer told me they have stopped making spares for my machine!!!






Do you still have some of your old, empty Cartridges that are compatible with your printer?

You can possibly take them to a Cartridge Refill store, they usually are much cheaper than buying brand new(And much less of a hassle).

I have to agree with you on one thing is that HP is just like that, having to pay an arm and a leg for a new cartridge, as WELL as HP changing their cartridge designs all the time(They do that so you have to buy a new printer).

Quote from: macdad- on June 01, 2010, 09:12:15 AM

I have to agree with you on one thing is that HP is just like that, having to pay an arm and a leg for a new cartridge, as well as HP changing their cartridge designs all the time(They do that so you have to buy a new printer).

If I were a printer manufacturer I would do what ever I could to have people buy my cartridges too.

Mobo: 945GCMX-S2 Gigabyte
CPU: Intel(R) Pentium(R) Dual CPU E2180 @ 2.00GHZ (2CPu's)
PSU: G-Force Switching Power Supply MODEL: ATX-500W +12V 20A
CPU fan in not spinning, it spins on boot but stops spinning after a few seconds or a minute

How do I know if the problem is the MOBO or the CPU fan?You could take a multimeter and test the motherboard fan connector:

Or you can just plug it into the SYS_FAN connector.
Is your CPU fan set on PWM control? In such a way that the temperatures at boot are low enough to stop it from running?- So I spin the MULTI meter to 12v?
-what is SYS_FAN connector?
-"Is your CPU fan set on PWM control? In such a way that the temperatures at boot are low enough to stop it from running?" I have no ideaYeah you just unplug the fan, boot the computer with the CPU fan CONNECTED to the motherboard at a connector labeled "SYS_FAN"

and then probe the CPU_FAN connector with the multimeter.
In your BIOS there might be a "Smart Fan" or "Fan Control" setting-if there is, set it to "Full Speed" or 100%

CPU fan set smart fan I Disabled it didn't spin
Enabled - Auto (no spin)
Enabled - PWM (no spin)
Enabled - Voltage (no spin)

My CPU fan was always connected to the motherboard

How do I probe the CPU_Fan connecter with the multimeter?
Where do I connect it?The CPU Fan has 4 pins, sys fan has 3 pins which 3 do I plug in?

How do I use the multimeter when there are 4 pins for the CPU Fan
Before we test with the multimeter,
Connect your CPU fan to the SYS_FAN like this:

Then power up your PC

Touch the Red Probe to the 12V pin on the motherboard, and the Black Probe to the GND pin on the motherboard's CPU_FAN connector.


So I set it to DCV 50? or ACV 50?DC. DC 12V. Its 12V, not 5VThere is ACV 10 50 250 1000 (it's in red) (written on the left) and the red wire is plugged on the right side of the multimeter
DCV 10 50 250 1000 (written on the right) (it's in white) and the black wire is plugged on the left side of the multimeter what next?Can I keep my CPU fan on SYS_FAN it's REALLLY REALLY SPINNING GOOODYes SYS_FAN always has full power coming out of the pins because on lower-end motherboards like yours there is no PWM cycle for the connector. You can leave it there without any issues-I do that with my computers too. I once had issues with plugging a 3-pin CPU fan into a 4-Pin connector-workaround was to plug it into SYS_FAN
YES IT WILL SPIN RRREEEALLLY FAST AND GOOD. Oh and I'm Pro Your Nab Live With it. Yes. I will Pro your Nab. (WHATEVER that means)

I came in late. Did he consult the machines site?
And yes, there is a way to do it. I think.Well, to save time, ere it is:
Quote

Upgrade from Windows® XP to Windows® 7

The Upgrade option is not available in Windows 7 Setup when installing Windows 7 on a computer running Windows XP. However, you can use Windows Easy Transfer to migrate files and settings from Windows XP to Windows 7 on the same computer. To do this, you must first copy files to removable media, such as an external hard drive or USB flash drive, or to a network share. Next, you will install Windows 7 and then migrate your files back from the removable media onto your computer. When you are finished, you must install your software programs again, but your files and settings will have been copied from Windows XP.
Copy files USING Windows Easy Transfer

1. Insert the Windows 7 DVD while running Windows XP. If the Windows 7 installation window opens automatically, close it.
2. Open Windows Explorer by right-clicking the Start menu, and then clicking Explore.
3. Browse to the DVD drive on your computer and click migsetup.exe in the Support\Migwiz directory.

The Windows Easy Transfer window opens.
4. Click Next.
5. Select An external hard disk or USB flash drive.
6. Click This is my old computer. Windows Easy Transfer scans the computer.
7. Click Next. You can also determine which files should be migrated by selecting only the user profiles you want to transfer, or by clicking Customize.
8. Enter a password to protect your Easy Transfer file, or leave the box blank, and then click Save.
9. Browse to the external location on the network or to the removable media where you want to save your Easy Transfer file, and then click Save.
10. Click Next. Windows Easy Transfer displays the file name and location of the Easy Transfer file you just created.

Use the Windows 7 DVD to upgrade

1. Start Windows 7 Setup by browsing to the root folder of the DVD in Windows Explorer, and then double clicking setup.exe.
2. Click Go online to get the latest updates (recommended) to retrieve any IMPORTANT updates for Windows 7. This step is optional. If you choose not to check for updates during Setup, click Do not get the latest updates.
3. Read and accept the Microsoft Software License Terms. Click I accept the License Terms (required to use Windows), and then click Next. If you click I decline (cancel installation), Windows 7 Setup will exit.
4. Click Custom to perform an upgrade to your existing Windows installation.

NOTE: When you perform a custom installation of Windows 7, files that were used in the earlier version of Windows are stored in a Windows.old folder. The folders that are stored in the Windows.old folder contain some files that you used in the earlier version of Windows. The type of files that are stored depends on your computer. We recommend that you always back up any important files before you install a new operating system.
5. Select the partition where you would like to install Windows. To move your existing Windows installation into a Windows.old folder and replace the operating system with Windows 7, select the partition where your current Windows installation is located.
6. Click Next and then click OK.

Windows 7 Setup will proceed without further interaction.

Copy files to the destination computer

1. If you saved your files and settings in an Easy Transfer file on removable media such as a UFD rather than on a network share, insert the removable media into the computer.
2. Click Start, click All Programs, click Accessories, click System Tools, and then click Windows Easy Transfer.

The Windows Easy Transfer window opens.
3. Click Next.
4. Click An external hard disk or USB flash drive.
5. Click This is my new computer.
6. Click Yes, open the file.
7. Browse to the location where the Easy Transfer file was saved. Click the file name, and then click Open.
8. Click Transfer to transfer all files and settings. You can also determine which files should be migrated by selecting only the user profiles you want to transfer, or by clicking Customize.
9. Click Close after Windows Easy Transfer has completed moving your files.

Delete Windows.old directory

To reclaim the disk space, you can delete the Windows.old directory using the Disk Cleanup system tool by following these steps:

1. Open Disk Cleanup. Click Start, click All Programs, click Accessories, click System Tools, and then click Disk Cleanup.
2. If prompted, select the drive where you just installed Windows 7, and then click OK.
3. Click Clean up system files.

Previous installations of Windows are scanned.
4. If prompted, select the drive where you just installed Windows 7, and then click OK.
5. Select Previous Windows installation(s) and any other categories of files you want to delete.
6. Click OK and then click Delete Files.

Please visit http://www.windows7.com/ for additional information about Windows® 7 and its new features, benefits and more.

64 mb of ram, 600mhz P3, 20Gb HDD

I wasn't speaking to the OP...i was speaking to the Spammer selling laptop BATTERIES all over the FORUM...

Sorry for the confusion.Quote from: patio on June 11, 2010, 03:56:53 PM

I wasn't speaking to the OP...i was speaking to the Spammer selling laptop batteries all over the Forum...

Sorry for the confusion.

Look at my specs and give me some suggestions. I'd LIKE to move up to something that will allow me to run and process full HD video. My current system plays video I've recorded on my HD camcorder at the highest settings, but it's very choppy. I want to be able to PLAY it smoothly and edit it.
from http://www.videocardbenchmark.net
The HD 6850 has the BEST Price/Performance of all graphics cards on the market right now. You will need an UPGRADE to at least a 500W PSU, according to AMD. Your 8400GS is at the very bottom when COMPARED to modern graphics cards. In fact, its even worse than the HD 5450 or the GeForce 210.

Hello,

I am having problems with my computer! When I turn the power on the computer starts to boot up and after I see the bright blue screen the screen turns black and says

Please select the operating system-

Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
Microsoft Windows Recovery Console

I let it pick the highlighted one (Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition) and then it goes to a screen that says:
We apologize for the inconvenience, but Windows did not start successfully. A recetn change may have caused this. If your computer stopped responding, restarted unexpectedly or was automatically shut down to protect your files choose LAST Know Good Configuration to REVERT to the most RECENT settings that worked. If a previous start up was interuppted due to power failure or because the Power or Reset button was pressed or if you are not sure what caused the problem choose start up Windows normally.

Safe Mode
Safe Mode with Networking
Safe Mode with Command Prompt
Last know Good Configuration
Start Windows Normally

Whatever I choose the computer then goes black, has a Windows Icon and then starts all over again. I cannot get it to do anything else.

Please tell me what is going on!!!!

Kari
I have a HP Pavillion a1102nWhat happened since the last time the system booted normally (new hw, sw, virus, error, etc)?I shut it off for the night. Before that I was having some problems with it running slow but nothing that I can pinpoint. Now it just continues to start to boot up and then restart. Any ADVICE?Try a repair install (Boot to the XP CD and choose the SECOND repair option)ALLEN,

I appreciate the advice but I am at a complete loss when it comes to computers. So are you saying that I use an XP CD and then turn on the computer. When it starts to turn on there will be a section that gives me 2 repair options and I click on the second one? If that is what you are saying then I will try to find the CD and give it a try. Thanks

KariDetailed instructions:

http://michaelstevenstech.com/XPrepairinstall.htm

and with screenshots: http://www.geekstogo.com/forum/How-to-repair-Windows-XP-t138.htmlOkay, I looked at those links and I think I can do that. one last question... how do I backup my information if I cannot get on the computer?

KariSlave Drive Tutorial...

the screen stops me from CONTINUING - so i'll do it in SECTIONS...

turn off power button from behind the tower and wait.

turn the power back on. i push the power button on at the normal place, hitting f8
the green power button comes, but the amber hard drive light flickers and goes out.

turn off and on again, hitting f8. the hard drive/power light stay on and after five minutes the "starting windows" appears.
after 10 minutes my desktop appears.

as i said, this happens 80% of the time.

WHAT'S WRONG I am not sure about helping with the problem.
But you shouldnt make two topics that neither of them give what the issue is.
I dont really understand that QUESTION either
Plus you need to give much more information about the computer.Are you saying your computer won't boot into windows unless you do all what you said? I WOULD check your HD for bad sectors and if that doesn't work I would think windows is corrupted.

Can you link me to any PSU's that are compatible with my specs: http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&safe=off&q=gateway+fx6800&cid=13314886346559392839&sa=title&os=tech-specs



Thank you. Hello, we want to HELP you
We need a better description the Power Supply.
Does it look linke any of these?

http://www.mundocorp.com/images/header/psu_300wattbtx_desktop.gif

http://www.partstore.com/GetImage.ashx?ImageType=Item&MfgName=Gateway&BrandName=Gateway&IdealItemNumber=6500843&StandardImageSizeCode=WEB_DISPLAY

http://www.skyline-eng.com/images/products/6500342.jpg

As well as provide your power usage from your components:
PSU CalculatorWhat's wrong with the PSU you have now?Hi Sorry about the lack of details.


Here's what the psu looks like: http://cdn.slashgear.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/fx6800-3_slashgear.jpg So I'm going to say the second one. It was a factory default psu so I never LOOKED at it...


The power supply is not only low but it is the incorrect type for the motherboard. The motherboard needs an 8 pin connector to be powered correctly, however the PSU is only a 4 pin. Four of the eight pins on the motherboard are left empty. Furthermore Gateway advertises it as 500w but it is really 450 watts, with a max output of 500watts for no longer then 17 seconds. (this is printed on the PSU’s sticker). QUOTE from: PChelpp on May 30, 2010, 06:40:14 PM

...
The power supply is not only low but it is the incorrect type for the motherboard. The motherboard needs an 8 pin connector to be powered correctly, however the PSU is only a 4 pin. Four of the eight pins on the motherboard are left empty. Furthermore Gateway advertises it as 500w but it is really 450 watts, with a max output of 500watts for no longer then 17 seconds. (this is printed on the PSU’s sticker).

Would I still need to contact them if I bought it from an online retailer like newegg?

I meant that I had bought the PC from an online retailer, so would I contact the retailer, or Gateway? ALSO, could I do this for the GPU as well?

merry christmas EVERYONE,

i have a problem w/ my windows 7.

1) the person who built this pc has a license to buy a program and put it on many computers. mine is one of them.

OK

80% of the time when i turn on the power button it lights up green, but the amber light for the hard DRIVE does not come on.
the bio's pop up w/ a MESSAGE - "detecting ide channels" and there it sits, doing nothing.

i push the power button off and wait awhile.
the same bio's screen COMES on.
i wait. nothing.

turn BACK on, while hitting f8 key.
nothing. same bio's screen.
this




i turn off the power

i turn offIs this a sata hd? Have you made sure your hd is properly connected?Are you getting any beeps?

My PRINTER has suddenly started printing from the Internet in a MICROSCOPIC sized font and there SEEMS to be no way to enlarge it! Any ideas would be most welcome, at the moment I have to get a magnifying glass to read it! Thanks.Try here
http://www.printerinfo.com/content/Canon-Pixma-MP600-Multifunction-Printer-Review/Setup--Drivers-and-Software.htm#
truenorth

I have a HPG61 110SA laptop and the problem i have is that when i connect the AC charger it does'nt register on the laptop. It will charge but the battery ICON does'nt show that its charging.
The charging indicator light on the laptop will come on then goes off after a few seconds. some times it stays on but most times i have to keep plugging and unplugging the lead to get the light to STAY on.
When i first STARTED having problems the battery icon used to say "plugged in but not charging" but now doesnt say anything when plugged in. I dont THINK its the lead. Can someone PLEASE shed some light on this issue.
http://h10032.www1.hp.com/ctg/Manual/c01856321.pdf
See "Calibrating Battery".

I got a OLD Hp omnibook xe3 but it doesn't work. It doesn't turn on, I THINK it might be the motherboard but I'm just putting this out there to see if its SOMETHING else and if its worth FIXING. THANKS!You will not be in a position to know if it is "worth fixing" until you know the cause of it "not working". truenorth

I when I boot up my computer it detects IDE drives and then tells me "PRIMARY IDE channel no 80 conductor cable install". I've never got this message before. What does it mean?

The when I get into my OS (Fedora 13) it says my hard drive may be failing. When I go into the disk utility it says my disk has MANY bad sectors. Does this mean my disk is failing? Or is it because i'm missing a conductor cable? Is it possible to fix bad sectors?Run hard drive diagnostics: http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287 (or http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/topic28744.html)
Make sure, you select tool, which is appropriate for the brand of your hard drive.
Depending on the program, it'll create bootable floppy, or bootable CD.
If downloaded file is of .iso type, use ImgBurn: http://www.imgburn.com/ to burn .iso file to a CD (select "Write image file to disc" option), and make the CD bootable.

NOTE. If your hard drive is made by Toshiba, unfortunately, you're out of luck, because Toshiba doesn't provide any diagnostic tool.Quote from: Cityscape on June 05, 2010, 09:15:12 AM

I when I boot up my computer it detects IDE drives and then tells me "Primary IDE channel no 80 conductor cable install". I've never got this message before. What does it mean?...

http://www.pcguide.com/ref/hdd/if/ide/confCable80-c.html

Thanks for the link. But what I still do not know is whether or not I should have an 80 conductor cable?

I'm not sure how to even label this and have been searching for an answer all over but not finding anything.

First, here are the computer details:
emachine T6212
Windows XP Home Edition Version 2002 Service Pack 3
AMD Athlon 64 Processor, 3200+, 1.99 GHz, 1.87 GB of RAM

A few months ago we got a horrible virus that caused it to have to be completely reformatted, which a coworker who is knowledgeable about computers did for me.

It was fine for a while but now is having a new problem. Some of the symptoms:
When you click on the Start button, the menu flashes for a moment and then goes away.
When you click on a desktop icon, it opens which program is farthest to the right in that row of icons.
When you are in IE and go to a webpage that is wider than the screen, it scrolls to the right. You can move it back to the left but it wont STAY there. Right now, this little editing window has stopped scrolling down so I can't see what I am typing. I can scroll down to see what I wrote but once I start typing again, it starts jumping down and then back up with each keystroke.
The moving to the right actually happens in any window that is too wide. To open a file I have to open the my computer icon and change to a detail view, or it will open the file that is to the right in the list or icon view.

I am guessing we will need to get a new computer, but one issue is that we signed up with CARBONITE but the BACKUP has gotten interrupted and I can't get it to finish. I am looking for any ideas so that I can get things working enough to at least get my files backed up.

Thank you!Did you try system restore?I tried it several TIMES and it didn't change anything.Quote from: wheresthebox on June 05, 2010, 09:51:01 AM

...Right now, this little editing window has stopped scrolling down so I can't see what I am typing. I can scroll down to see what I wrote but once I start typing again, it starts jumping down and then back up with each keystroke....

Hi All I ordered (2) 500GB's for my new computer. What I got was the (2) HD's acting as one RAID 0.
When I spoke to the Tech support I was told with thier help Ican change IT to RAID 1.
I've done some research on RAID 0 and RAID 1. Now I'm not sure which is better for me.
The resaoning behind the 2 HD's was to use one as a Backup drive.
Is it difficult to make the change?
This is for my home computer,
used moslty for the Internet and saving Jpeg's.
Any help in this matter will be greatly appericated..
Windows 7 is the OS

Thanks DBThis link might help;
http://m-techlaptops.com/raid.htm

For you specific situation, I would recommend you do a RAID 1 setting which better suited for data backup.Hi Ironman Thanks for the fast reply. Would IT be a major "PIA" to change from Raid 0 to raid 1?
DBYes, RAID-1 is mirrored, both drives are identical. RAID-0 is split between both drives. You will have to start over, create an image of your current installation & reimage back to 1 drive with the 2nd disconnected. When you connect the 2nd drive in a mirrored configuration, the drive controller will clone one drive to the other.YES!! It's going to be a major"PIA" to change over to Raid 1? I will have the company techs. on the phone with me, I think, they already some disk on is the Wind 7 OS and the other is what they PUT on my computer.
The computer is not even 1 week old..My problem IS do I want to spend 2/3 hrs at the computer..
Thanks Again
DBHi All
SO? Is "IT" going to be a major "PIA" to go from Raid 0 to Raid 1 and would be worth the trouble?

Happy Holidays
DanQuote from: DanB on December 24, 2011, 06:55:15 AM

Is "IT" going to be a major "PIA" to go from Raid 0 to Raid 1

and would be worth the trouble?

would it take a long time to do?
I was told me may take 2/3 hours to complete.

Hey!

Just bought a GTX 570 and like an idiot, didn't check the power rating or anything like that.

Graphics Card (Hopefully): GTX 570HD
Processor: AMD Phenom II X4 970 (3.5Ghz)
PSU: XFX 450W (Single 12v Rail, 34A)

If I ever install it as well, or get a new PSU, I'm quite confused about the 12v rail as I understand nothing about this. I don't understand what it is, how to find the wire connection for it, or what I'd plug the cables that came with the GTX 570HD into.

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks a lot!
Not really sure if this video will help. Thought it was worth a shot. Cheers.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQaSUnGm2yAThanks for the reply, IowaMrs, but I'm still clueless!

I'm wanting to know if the XFX 450W PSU I have will run the graphics card and the rest of my hardware, or would it be too risky? If I remember right, it says minimum requirement was 550W and 36A along the 12v rail (that I completely don't understand).

You have to put two 6-pin connectors into the graphics card from the PSU, but I've absolutely no idea how to do that. Is there specific wires for the 12v rail? If so, what do they look like?

The graphics card also came with some sort of adaptor, that had something like two 4-pin connections that lead to a 6-pin.

Any help would be appreciated, as I've opened the box and I'm unsure whether the shop would take it back. £300 it cost me.

Thanks in advance!You can find the Amperage of your 12V by doing this:
http://www.nvnews.net/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=131483

An underpowered supply will cause problems, mostly lockups, but they can POSSIBLY cause artifacting on screen, as this user reports. We don't want artifacting to happen with your brand new GTX 570, do we? I wouldn't get anything less than what nVidia suggests, which is a 550W power supply. Furthermore, you have only 34A on your 12V rail. nVidia wants 36A*12V = 432W. You have 408W off the 12V rail. Nope.
http://superuser.com/questions/195905/would-an-underpowered-power-supply-cause-lockups

Your graphics card requires two 6-pin PCI-E power connectors from the PSU, which your 450W one probably doesn't have:

I would get this Corsair 600W PSU ($69.99 quite AFFORDABLE):
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139028
A decent 40A off the single 12V rail.

Thank you so much, Transfusion, for the help.

I was wondering, would an NRP-PC602 Xigmatek 600w suffice for my current system, or would that be too little?

http://www.3000rpm.com/acatalog/Xigmatek-NRP-PC602-600W-ATX-2.2-Silent-80Plus-Power-Supply.html

Also, if I buy a 600w, will the fan start getting sligthly loud whilst playing games like Star Wars: The Old Republic? It don't bother me, I'd just like to know so it's nothing to worry about.

Thanks again!My power supply has a 120mm fan which is barely audible over the other components. Most likely your graphics card's fans will be the noisiest of all your system fans.
In fact, reading the reviews here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817815009
"This THING is dead silent"
"Running solid and strong since Feb 2011"
"I can't tell by sound that its on!"
"Better efficiency than advertised"
There's nothing like first hand reviews from customers.
Yes it will power your system without issues.Quote from: Bagsu on December 27, 2011, 02:27:02 AM

...I was wondering, would an NRP-PC602 Xigmatek 600w suffice for my current system, or would that be too little?

http://www.3000rpm.com/acatalog/Xigmatek-NRP-PC602-600W-ATX-2.2-Silent-80Plus-Power-Supply.html
...

Thanks for the help! Appreciate it.

I tried it out on Star Wars: The Old Republic, it's fine. However, sometimes after a few hours of gaming or if something's graphic heavy on my screen, the fan speeds up and get slightly louder. Is this something to worry about, or will it be fine?

Also, it has 2x 12v Rails, would I have to have a wire from each rail plugged into my GPU? On one set theres two 6pins and on the other set theres two 6pins, so overall I have four in total, but would I need one 6pin from one set of wires and the other 6pin from the other set of wires?

Thanks again!