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hi im thinking of buying a new PROSSESOR but i need to KNOW what prossesors my motherboard will take.

the company who make my computer went bankrupt so yea they dont have a website anymore
well do you know what mother board you have ? i know what prossesor and what model of computer i have but not the motherboad how can i find that out?ok just found it out its

MSI K8MM-V (MS-7142)
COMPATIBLE Processors AMD Athlon 64, AMD SEMPRON , and Socket 754


i hope this has HELP Socket 754...Compatible CPUs. http://www.msi.com/index.php?func=prodcpusupport&maincat_no=1&cat2_no=&cat3_no=&prod_no=173

A beginner question. If have a LAPTOP with a small display where the large TOOL bars used in my software would normally be truncated and I hook the laptop to a separate MONITOR will the monitor have the same truncated tool bars? Can I change the SETTINGS to display FULL tool bars on the monitor?The display will be the same and will only vary depending on the screensize of the external monitor.

Hi guys, i only just joined the forum but i have had significant help from this site in trouble shooting my old WINDOWS Me rig so im hoping you could help me again. I recently decided to improve my entertainment experience by purchasing a 28inch lcd tv to replace my old 19inch dell lcd monitor that was outdated and becoming faulty, i set-up the tv and linked it to the computers graphics card (Ati HD 2600) with a vga cable rather than the s-video because i hear the quality is very low, well upon doing this i am able to use the basic functions of my desktop computer eg internet and word processing and also some low demand games like Tribes 2 but when i go to play any graphics demanding games i reach a road block in the form of it not working at all USUALLY it freezes or hangs. so im wondering whether linking the computer to the tv for more than surfing isnt possible as i have heard now that the tvs and the monitors have different specifications PIXEL wise, or if there is a way i would greatly appreciate your help.

System specs

Windows vista 32bit
500gb Hard drive
2gb ddr 2 ram
Ati HD 2600 (512 mb)

Thanks in advance Were you able to play these games before the monitor change (with the 19 in.)? The problem you are EXPERIENCING is most generally related to a less than adequate graphics card and/or insufficient RAM. However there are other factors also that can affect your performance--so what is the ANSWER to the 1st question?truenorthyes i was able to play these games before the switch and i do have several hardware configurations i can use but they all produce the same result :S

Our Acer Aspire 5520 won't start. All it does is click and the power button lights briefly. This keeps cycling but never starts. Running Win Vista. We have tried the following; removed the battery, held down the button for 30-45 secs, replace battery. Still same. Tried with only the adapter connected (no battery). What else can we do? No screen at all.
THANKS in advance. KJWhat happened prior to the problem? Can it still boot or power up when you say keeps cycling but never start?In my opinion the motherboard is TOAST. This happened to my old laptop it just kept going on and off before screen shows up. I got it checked and motherboard was to be replaced so I just got a new PC.I've had something happen like that to me as well! But in that case it was the processor, when I opened it up you could see right where it was melted.
Good luck!I have no idea how the previous 2 Posts are supposed to help the OP...Hi Jason 2074,
You asked what happened prior to my problem. Nothing that was NOTICE. Had been using computer previous day, then tried to turn it on, that's when it wouldn't start. Can't thing of _anything_ that was done or happened prior. Scratching my HEAD....
Now, today I took the back covers off, removed HDD, then DVD drive and tried to start without them in...same situation.
Also tried reseating the RAM and also lifted the FAN and cleared some dust. Just while I had it open.
Still same situation. Maybe like someone else said m'board??? I hope not! Anyhoo I probably can retrieve stuff from hard drive with another machine (I hope).
Thanks again......more to Jason 2074. Actually after some thought, had been using laptop, it went into 'sleep', then when we hit the power button to wake it up it went into this cycling. (Have made a short video of the way it looks, clicking on and off).
If the laptop has Vista disc, try using Startup repair. Look also first to connecting the hard drive by enclosures or a SATA/IDE USB adapter to backup important files.

I recieved a computer with no HARD drive in it. I'm trying to get it going. Its a Gateway desktop. I put a hard drive in and got it loading to COMMAND prompt. The BIOS is picking up the CD-Rom, however when loading the computer it says the CD-Rom is not found. This is keeping me from loading WINDOWS XP on to the computer. I've tried different cd drives but it keeps doing the same thing. I've racked my brains trying to find the problem & can't seem to get it. Someone PLEASE give me some advice.you might have to PLAY around the jumpers on the CD drive

Hello,

I own a VAIO laptop for more than a year now, and since a few days now my drive no longer reads DVD's. It STILL detects and read ordinary CD's, but when a DVD is inserted, two things can happen:

- the disc starts to spin but nothing appears on the 'Computer' screen
- nothing at all

I initially tried using a lens CLEANER but it didn't have any effects (although one game DVD did work after it, but it didn't last)

I'd like to find out if it's only a problem with software/windows or if the drive itself is somehow damaged.

I'm on Windows Vista (Service Pack 2) and the drive itself is a 'Optiarc DVD RW AD-7560A ATA Device'

Any help greatly appreciated,
Thank youCheck the LENGTH of your warranty...
Sounds like the DVD laser is shot.It may be that the optical video reader of the drive has failed. I assume that you have been using it for the DVD's before now without problem with a specific software. Just to eliminate a software issue being the cause download another video player (there are many free ones available) and try that.If you have access to a removeable DVD drive you could also try that to SEE if it will play correctly.In the end if it does turn out to be a faulty internal drive unit it will probably to be to your financial advantage to purchase an external as a replacement. You will also by doing so gain the advantage of portability of the drive to use on other COMPUTERS if you so desire.truenorthThanks for your help Insert a bootable disc (your OS disc will do). Reboot. Doest the system see the disc at boot? If not, the drive is shot.

This morning the fan on my ASUS 1000HA netbook abruptly stopped working this morning. I have it configured in a dual-boot setup, with XP and Eeebuntu. I can't get the fan to spin with either OS. I also downloaded speedfan in windows, and it doesn't register any FANS at all. Does anyone have any suggestions for fixes to try short of taking it to a shop?Fan is most likely choked with dust. Better take it somewhere before laptop overheats & dies.Agreed.
Stop using it IMMEDIATELY...What's weird is that I used it all day today, keeping a close eye on the temps, and they never got above 63C (which was a normal temp when running under load when the fan was working). If you want to tempt fate that's purely your choice...I would bring it to a repair shot or do it yourself but take caution. ill do it if you live close enough haha..I have had some luck taking apart laptops. I had a dell inspiron that the fan went out of and that thing was easy to take apart. Some however are not. My son had a hp that was a real pain to take apart. Much caution if doing it yourself.

As stated, using without a working fan is risky.I used a camera CLEANER to shoot some air down the exhaust slots, and now the fan is working again, though only going about half speed. Tried opening the case up all the way, but the plastic snaps felt like they would break if I pulled too hard so I let it alone. I'll probably try taking it to a shop this week.Unfortunately by design laptops mostly aren't made to be user serviceable so that's probably a wise choice...

Okay. So, my mother bought a brand new computer a few weeks AGO, and EVERYTHING was going well. She bought an Acer ASPIRE 7540 1317. I usually KNOW what is going on when something goes wrong, but I am drawing a blank here. And I couldn't find anything online that goes along with this. Her screen is making white lines (like sun RAYS she said) that is going diagonal across her screen. I am not sure if this is fixable, or if the screen is just breaking. But isn't this really early for this to happen? I don't know. If anyone could help me, that would be great!is line changes or goes away when you change the screen resolution Exercise the warranty on that machine and have it replaced immediately...

I have IBM latop running vista. Screen does not pivot and close. I would to attach a THIN touch sensitive screen to LAPTOP when CLOSED and plug this into USB or RGB out port. Then use it scroll and READ documents with laptop on but closed. Are screens /displaysavailable like this? This what your looking for? http://www.touchscreens.com/products-addon.html
truenorth

Hello,

I HOPE someone can give me some insight on my mouse situation.

When I right click, it displays the scroll wheel CURSOR instead of displaying menu OPTIONS. Instead, I have to "roll" the scroll wheel up or down by 1 or 2 clicks while holding down on the right button in order to get the copy/past menu to DISPLAY.

I've checked the setting and properties in control panel but I can't FIGURE out why it's doing this. Can anyone help?

Install the proper software for the mouse you have.i think it virus problem.

That's what I THOUGHT, but I WANTED to be SURE.

Hey guys so after taking some advice from you guys i went ahead and bought me a new 750w power supply and a xfx 6970 2gb video card.
the video card runs EVERY game including BF3, Skyrim and everything i trow at it max settings but when i look my video card up either on Dxdiag or on any other services it shows the video card RUNNING at speeds way way lower than its ment to be.

instead of 2gb memory it says it has 624 mb
instead of running at 880 mhz core clock it runs at 400mhz

i have the latest drivers 11.12

my computer specs are Windows vista 64
Processor : Amd Phenom 9550 quad core 2.2ghx
6gb ram
Direct X 11
ty for help in advance
i even got new CASE and everything my home is a cold place so it doesnt overheat :-( anyways thanx guys



Video cards have an Idle clock, a 2D clock, and a 3D clock. My GT 430's Core Idle clock(when I'm at the desktop browsing the web) is 50 MHz, my 2D clock is 405 MHz, and my 3D clock is 825 MHz, which only kicks in when I'm gaming/video editing, etc. I'm not at my desktop right now so I can't give you the clocks of my memory and nVidia shader, but I do remember they varied along with the Core clock.


624 MB of memory? Really? Check in GPU-Z and see what it reports...Ok my friend i downloaded Gpuz and these are the new results
http://www.systemrequirementslab.com and my Dxdiag mark it as 624mb the GPUZ marks it as 2048
Gpuz marks it as
Gpu clock = 600 , default gpu clock = 880

something i did notice that was really weird is that GPUZ on Businterface it says PCI-Ex16 @ x16 but when u pass ur mouse over it it says its runing at PCEex 16 vs 1.1

i did have BF3 turn on when testing and the gpu clock would not go above 600. again ty for ur help
Quote from: merlok on December 18, 2011, 07:47:20 AM

something i did notice that was really weird is that GPUZ on Businterface it says PCI-Ex16 @ x16 but when u pass ur mouse over it it says its runing at PCEex 16 vs 1.1

also i get an error when trying to run that precision ( failed to initialize display driver wrapper ) i just noticed that is evga and my video card is XFX that doesnt matter?

MSI Afterburner v2.1.0 (2011-02-15)
Added AMD Barts and Cayman graphics processors family support
Added core voltage control for reference design AMD RADEON 6970 graphics cards with CHL8228 voltage regulators
Added core voltage control for reference design AMD RADEON 6970 graphics cards with VT1556 voltage regulators
Added core voltage control for reference design AMD RADEON 6950 graphics cards with CHL8214 voltage regulators. Please take a note that voltage control is not supported on AMD RADEON 6950 graphics cards flashed with AMD 6970 BIOS
Added core voltage control for reference design AMD RADEON 6950 graphics cards with VT1556 voltage regulators. Please take a note that voltage control is not supported on AMD RADEON 6950 graphics cards flashed with AMD 6970 BIOS

I have a Dell xps420 Vista PC with NVIDIA Geforce 8600 GTS video adapter with Dell Ultrasharp 2001FP LCD monitor. I am using DVI-D connection to monitor. When I run chkdsk or Spinrite the video goes out within 1 hour of starting either program. I have checked BIOS and find no power management that would make monitor sleep. I realize both chkdsk and Spinrite operate under DOS. I am wondering if that has anything to do with loss of video. Otherwise, the PC works just fine. Help? Ideas?I don't understand. You're running videos and checkdisk simultaneously? First of all, you cannot run checkdisk on the system partition from within the OS. Well, you can - but it doesn't do anything. You need to run chkdsk /r at boot (or from the Recovery Console if using XP) for it to repair problems it finds.

What is it you are TRYING to do?Hi Allan:
When you select chkdsk from Vista it runs at next system boot in DOS. Spinrite runs from its own cd and has a version of DOS on the cd it boots from. I do appreciate your help.Okay, I'm still not sure what you are trying to do. First, there's no DOS in Vista but that's another story. Why are you trying to check and repair the HD while watching a video? Utilities that run at disk level are both hd and cpu intensive and you really don't want to do anything else while they are running.I am not watching a video, just trying to monitor progress of chkdsk or Spinrite as it checks the drive. I started this as a routine check, but since I can't see it through to completion because of loss oss of video, I am getting concerned.
DavidSorry - I completely misunderstood. The SCREEN should not go blank when running checkdisk at boot - not sure what's causing that. Perhaps SOMEONE else has some idea. Sorry for the confusion.Thanks for trying. Dell won't help (WITHOUT charging mega $$)since PC is out of warranty and Geforce card is not original hardware, but upgraded by me. Nvidia won't support either. I might try switching back to vga cable.
David

hi guru, i would like to ask what would i do with my canon ip4200. When i turn it on the led light (green and orangle) blink ALTERNATELY. It display ERROR number 6500. I notice also that when i turn it on the printer head didn't move form right to left SINCE that will happen when you turn on the printer. I thin that is called initialization. Pleas help me, i tried to move the printer head by hand but it is jam. i can not move it and if i forced it, i'm afraid it COULD damage other parts inside.Not having had experience with this particular MODEL i shall suggest from a generic standpoint. If you have a "LED" window on the computer look at the display and determine the error message number. Then using your manual ascertain what that message relates to.It then should indicate the action necessary to resolve the issue. Under no circumstances should you attempt to force the carriage to move.goodluck,truenorth

I did a search on this and couldn't find what I needed.

I am working on an old generic desktop computer that has 128M of RAM. I know this computer isn't the fastest thing around but I'm putting something together for my grandkids to learn on.

According to the manual the motherboard supports up to 256 MB of DRAM (a minimum of 8 MB) on board (72-PIN SIMM x 2, 168-Pin DIMM x 2), BIOS auto FP DRAM, EDO DRAM and SDRAM configuration.

What would I need to find to increase from the 128 MB?

Thanks,
GNormally, the answer to your question would depend heavily on your current memory configuration (that is, how you have 128MB)

Thankfully- it's not to difficult to narrow down. Although I'm not 100% sure, I've never seen or heard of a SIMM module that was larger then 8MB; in fact, motherboards such as the one you're working with were "transitional" the idea was to allow you to upgrade your Motherboard and Processor from your older model and still be able to use the SIMMs from it; the DIMMs are probably what would CONSTITUTE the 256MB limit-

Now, that being said, the 128MB you have in there is either 2 64MB DIMMS or 1 128MB DIMM; if you have 2 64MB DIMMs, you'll need to rip them both out and replace them with two 128MB DIMMs; if it's just using a single 128MB DIMM, you can get a single new 128MB DIMM and plop it in the empty slot. (word of advice: you might want to get some compressed air to clean out that slot, to prevent dust interfering with the new RAM)

One you determine wether you need 1 or 2 128MB DIMMs, you need to find them... These are usually marketed as SDRAM. If you have a local computer shop (by which I mean a smaller outfit- not best buy or anything along those lines) you might inquire there, you can usually have better luck with old COMPONENTS at places like that. I have seen new SDRAM modules being sold in several larger stores as well(like best buy, future shop, london drugs, etc) so it cannot hurt to take a look around there, either.

Hope this helps! Good luck Thanks for the information. From what I can see there are 4 slots according to the motherboard manual and visually that is what I see in the computer. All 4 slots are full so you may be correct in assuming that they are 64 MB. I agree with you on the compressed air. This thing has been sitting around for a few years not used and it is pretty dusty inside.

I wonder if there is a website that has used pieces like what I need.


G It sounds like (from the mathematical calculation) that given you currently have 128 MB of ram that what you do have at the moment is 4 sticks of 32MB. However this is not really relevant given your intentions to upgrade to 256 MB. Because you do have 4 slots available it does increase your options however for a variety of combinations. It now becomes more of a matter of what you can find and the costs. I personally would recommend that if you opt for multiple sticks (as opposed to a single 256 MB) that you try to obtain all the sicks of the same manufacturer. Again personally i would try to go to the single 256 MB stick ROUTE. B.C.'s advise on sources is very good. Shops that repair computers will probably be your best bet. You should be able to find removed ram (used) from older computers there. Might be an idea to take the computer with you so as to have the store install it in their presence in case it does not work then they cannot blame you. good luck ,truenorthOk. It is obvious that I don't have a clue when it comes to memory sticks. Am I supposed to put in sticks that have the same "ns" as what I pulled out? I seem to think I remember SOMEBODY at work say something about that back in 95. I picked up 2 128 MB sticks that are 100ns for a few bucks. However, when I plugged them in, the memory test didn't change. Computer indicates at the memory test 131072K OK, but when I put the 128's in the memory test indicated 131072K like NOTHING was changes. The 2 sticks I pulled out one is 4M x64 10NS 3.3 V UA10 alone with some other numbers, the other only says 32MB 4 clock. They are 2 sided sticks so there is a total of 168 pins. I have changed sticks in one of my other older computers with success in that area, but not with this other one I'm working on.

Any ideas? Is there something that needs to be changed somewhere?


Thanks for the replys.
Quote from: 69Z28 on April 23, 2010, 07:51:58 PM

The 2 sticks I pulled out one is 4M x64 10NS 3.3 V UA10 alone with some other numbers, the other only says 32MB 4 clock.


Thanks for the replys.

Go to this site and run their free memory scan. http://crucial.cn/systemscanner/
It will tell you what you have (should only show what is actually functioning) and will also tell you what kind and how much that computer can use. truenorth

If you do they won't be cheap...

With one 128 stick in memory reads 98304K and when I replaced it with the other 128 stick, memory test also read 98304K.


With the original 4x64 in by itself, memory reads 98304K, and with the 32MB 4 clock stick in by itself memory reads 98304K.
Can the 128 sticks be bad? or just not compatible like you said? If not compatible how do I find out what is compatible?

I have a Dell Dimension 5150 desktop that is 4 years old (kids computer). Worked LAST week but now cannot even power it down by holding the power BUTTON. The power button just keeps blinking an AMBER light. I have unplugged everything then plugged back in, tested all the CORDS. Any thoughts?

LeahRight from Dell:
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim5150/en/sm/tshoot1.htm#wp1120147
See System Lights:
Blinking Amber: A power supply or system board failure has occurred.
Check the diagnostic lights to see if the specific problem is identified. Also, see "Power Problems" in your computer Owner's Manual.
Scroll down a bit further to see Diagnostic Lights.Thanks so much!

Everytime I re-boot my computer, the mouse stops working until I CRAWL behind the tower, pull the plug on the mouse and re-insert it; then, EVERYTHING is fine until the next time!?
I have loaded and re-loaded the driver DISC and it has no effect, it still refuses to recognize the mouse until I pull the plug.
Puzzled and THANKS,
HankGPS/2 or USB mouse?USB

Hi all i just bought some dust off computer cleaner for my mouse, my mouse had lots of dust in it so i thought this would be great, I thought it was just canned air but now reading on the INTERNET Ive heard people have died from it, it accidently sort of sprayed me in the face, my eyes started burning alittle, i went and flushed out my face and eyes with water like the LABEL told me too. but is it safe to use my mouse with that stuff sprayed all over it? I plugged in a different mouse for now. Please reply Im very worried.The only way that you can die from that stuff is if you intentionally inhale it. People inhale duster to get high. Some unfortunate people have died from it because it can FREEZE your lungs. Your mouse should be fine.

Also, if you're using a PS/2 mouse, turn the computer off before you plug it back in.Thank you my friend! YA i flushed out my eyes really good and i feel back to normal, just GOT abit paranoid i guess.
No problem.
Stop back by anytime.Quote

People inhale duster to get high

It must be against this board rules to promote drug use




Just kidding

It must be against this board rules to promote drug use

Sneak up behind the PC and scream...Yes it will, but the image outputted will look slightly blurred because your GFX card is outputting at lower than OPTIMAL resolution. Setting it to a lower resolution will stretch the picture to fit your screen.

Quote from: Lumpy44 on December 17, 2011, 11:24:07 AM

Well if i is over 6 years old it from before HD's time. A new video card should help it out but the CPU might just not have enough juice to run it.

Sneak up behind the PC and scream...

I recently bought a BD570 Bluray player. It said that it could read NTFS hard drives through the USB 2.0 port on the FRONT of the system, so I plugged in my 1TB Iomega external hard drive, and it wasn't detected. So, I took it back to my computer, and now it won't even be detected. The drive is uninitialized, and when I try to initialize it in drive manager, it says: "Error: cyclic redundancy check." So, I thought it might be the controller in the external hard drive enclosure. I took the hard drive out of the enclosure and put in an empty hard drive bay in my computer. The system booted up fine, but now it says the hard drive is locked! I have NEVER even attempted to lock the hard drive, and I can verify that it was working SECONDS before I hooked it up to the Blu-ray player. The Western Digital Recovery tool I downloaded will not see the hard drive, and I have tried every possible password I can think of.
Is there a UTILITY to completely clear a hard drive? Or at least get rid of the password? I just don't know what there is left to do.is this underlies you are talking about? And you were telling us that after you plug it into your computer another USB device stopped working. Is that right?
http://reviews.cnet.com/blu-ray-players-recorders/lg-bd570/4505-9991_7-33971074.html
it would appear to be most likely a coincidence. However, there is another explanation. But rather than offer speculation and CONJECTURE, I would strongly recommend you try to exercise the war and he's available on those devices. If you truly believe that one device caused the failure of the other, unique to make your thoughts clear to the manufactures.

Yes, just one individual can make a difference. If you can write down your ideas and put them in a nice well organized letter and mail it to both the maker of your external hard drive and to the maker of the external Blu-Ray player, it just possibly might influence somebody for the good.

on the other hand, if nobody ever made an attempt to contact the vendors and the manufacturers about failures of their equipment, they would never do anything because they don't know anything happened.

And yes, I believe it is possible for one external device to destroy another external device. But this is very difficult to prove without some very sophisticated laboratory with the. Which I don't have, and I assume you don't have either. But the manufacturers to have that kind of equipment. So you have to bring it to their attention.


I called LG (The player's manufacturer) and they said that they would try what I said and see if it produced an error. They also mentioned that they have never heard of this problem before. Great, lucky me.Quote from: Geek-9pm on June 14, 2010, 03:00:48 PM

I would strongly recommend you try to exercise the war and he's available on those devices.

A friend is sending me a USB audio adapter to play sound after my chip died (I assume). The computer does beep through the speakers, but no sound from videos and such. I was going to get a card, but he told me to try the adapter first. This computer is old and I only use it occasionally. I need the audio for the videos I use. I'm not sure if I need to disable the audio chip in the BIOS for something else to work. Any thoughts?



MIND Computer Products
Intel Celeron 1.80GHz, 2 GB Ram
WinXP Home / SP3
Mainboard ECS P4VMM2
S3 Graphics ProSavageDDR
Vinyl AC'97 Audio
Google Chrome
Avast Antivirus,
THREATFIRE,
PC Tools Firewall Plus,SUPERAntiSpyware
CCleaner, HyJackthis, Malwarebytes' Anti-MalwareHow can you be certain the Audio chip is broken? Particularly since AC '97 Audio is entirely implemented via a Software driver that uses the System Processor, and there isn't a discrete audio chip... It could be a driver issue.

To answer your question though, No, you shouldn't have to disable it. If the system is old enough to have AC '97 Audio, it probably also uses USB 1.1 which means that it's possible the Sound Adapter might not work very well, if at all.Driver issue was the first THING I THOUGHT of, so I updated all the drivers. Still no sound. I thought it may be an issue with a broken audio plug. There are two green plugs, one front and one on the back. Both seem to have power to them, but no sound through them. I don't know what else to do
I do have USB 2.0 through a pci card, if that matters. Any help would be appreciated.




























I think your USB Sound Card will work fine, now that you have USB 2.0 port available. Also, first test the card without disabling the internal card. If it causes any CONFLICTS, then only you should disable it.

Any advice? It was working fine until I was fooling around with the ink cartridge refilling it. Now I just get a scanner error message saying to power down and try again-which does nothing. Can I go to remove hardware and remove it and then re plug it in or do I need to get a driver? Thanks!gord99,Here is a reply i gave within the past 24 hours to another poster on what appears to be a very similar ISSUE. It should contain the answer to your problem as well. truenorth

"Not knowing EXACTLY how you uninstalled and reinstalled the device software that is usually the area that causes the type of problem you are having. You need to completely uninstall ALL the software related to the ALL IN ONE device not just the scanner software. You will need to do that via the add/remove programs. You will need to verify that after you believe the software has been uninstalled that no reference to the printer exists in the control panel printers tab.If any reference to the device remains at that point you need to go into the "device manager" and DELETE the device from there. Once that has been accomplished then you need to follow the instructions for installing the all in one as if it was a 1st time install. That usually means a PRECISE order of actions.Such as not physically connecting the device until advised by the installation program to do so. So when you have uninstalled all the software appropriate to the device you need to also physically disconnect it from the computer. While you are probably beyond the free phone tech support from HP you most likely still have free tech support via the HP Tech support web site. If the suggestions preceding do not resolve your issue you might give that a try. good luck,truenorth"

I found what corrected this issue was by turning off the computer, removing the sound card and installing in a different socket. What a STUBBORN clean install this was. Ran into all kinds of issues for whatever reason. So far so good. All this was on the the parts machine that I put back together.

Thanks for all the help people.

GQuote from: 69Z28 on April 29, 2010, 07:59:29 AM

I found what corrected this issue was by turning off the computer, removing the sound card and installing in a different socket. What a stubborn clean install this was. Ran into all kinds of issues for whatever reason. So far so good. All this was on the the parts machine that I put back together.
...

Now that you're a computer technogeek, cards get installed into slots, not sockets. The slots consist of edge-card connectors which can be ISA, EISA, AGP, PCI, PCI-Express (1x & 16x). RAM slots are edge card connectors, too. There are also card connectors with pins, but you'll never see them on a PC.

CPU's get installed into sockets (ZIF sockets, i.e. Zero Insertion Force) except for the Slot 1 CPU mentioned earlier. These cpu's are mounted to a card, along with the fan within the plastic housing shown.

Quote from: sandra on April 29, 2010, 10:31:29 AM

Sound is not very good, btw.

I assume you were not pushing in the jack all the way, correct?

What does that mean?

thanks for helping dumbtarded baby sandra

Bitte

Danke schön.

Küsschen ( )

Hi, this is a pretty broad question.

Basically I'm just interested to know what people's opinions are on the current best hardware for a server.

Required functions of the server:
#) At least 7TB hard drive capacity in RAID5
#) Ability to hot-swap faulty drives
#) Able to serve 1080p video content to ~10 clients simultaneously
#) Able to serve at least 2 clients simultaneously on LAN

Non-server like functions it will also need:
#) Able to display 1080p video content (ideally through HDMI, otherwise VGA is fine)
#) Able to play 5.1 sound directly
#) Ability to record digital TV (optional if not crazy expensive)

I don't have an infinite budget, so not necessarily looking for the theoretically best server ever, but I am interested in value, and don't mind paying a bit extra for something that is worth while.Personally, I'd be looking at two separate machines - one as a file server, the other as a HTPC, to perform the non-server functions. My reason for suggesting that, is that a case that can accommodate and effectively cool enough drives for the storage you want, plus room for expansion which I assume you'll also be looking for, would by no means be a media chassis, and probably not very quiet. Additionally, the OS plays a large role. I would go for Windows 7 for its media centre capabilites - the media centre is truly excellent. However, to use it as a file server, it might not be the best choice and you may be better served (pun intended) by going for, say, Windows Home Server. As you mentioned, it's a broad question, so it's a broad answer.

The main expense in the system would be the RAID card. They can run very expensive, so what I would actually recommend is a used Dell PERC 5 controller. They can go on Ebay for <£100, you'd also need two SFF-8484 cables, which "breaks" the two SAS ports into 2X4 ( SATA ports. For a little more info on going that route, check out this thread.
If you don't want to go used, I'm not sure what RAID card would be best as I'm very unsure on pricing.
I would advise strongly against going with any kind of software RAID, be that on the motherboard SATA controller or on a software-based RAID card (hostRAID or similar). Software RAID in general is less reliable and much slower, software RAID on a card is a little better than that on a motherboard but I'd still advise against it.

Hot swapping drives does depend to an extent on the way you're plugging them in. You'll probably need a hotswap bay adapter, or a case with built in hotswap bays.

For the drives, if you don't need speed I'd go for the Samsung SpinPoint F3 EcoGreen 2TB drives. They run fairly cool, good storage capacity for the price, however they are 5400RPM so they're a little slow. For more speed but keeping with 2TB drives, I'd advise the Hitachi Deskstar 7K2000 2TB. I'd go for 4x2TB drives rather than any other configuration because although 7x1TB may work out slightly cheaper, you've GOT a higher chance of a disk failure and less room for expansion.

For the motherboard, I would go with the Asus M4A785TD-V Evo, with an Athlon II X2 240/245/250/255 processor. The integrated graphics should be sufficient for HD playback, with a decent processor to back them up. If you notice slowdowns, a cheap ATI 4650, 4670, 5450, 5570, something like that, would ELIMINATE that.

2GB of RAM would suffice for this machine.

For a TV card, I went the Ebay route and got a very nice dual analog/dual digital tuner for about £20. Can't remember the model off the top of my head but it's never let me down.

As FAR as being able to serve video goes, that depends to a large extent on the network capabilties already in place. Assumign you have a Fast Ethernet or better network in place, it should be fine.

Oh - last but not least, the PSU. With a lot of drives you'll need more than you might think. I'd go for a Corsair VX550, but as it's usually only a little less than the 650W, I'd go for that instead personally.

Hopefully this helps a little

I would first like to state that my temperatures are well within a reasonable margin, but I would like to drop them lower. The card, after one hour and twenty five minutes of looping 3dmark06 @1280x1024 did not exceed 160 degrees farenheit. The only reason it got that hot was because I had not yet realized that the card was only running the fan at 60% unless the temperature breaks 212F. I bought this card used, I love it, it's made my system capable of playing many of the games I like entirely maxed out @ 1280x1024. However, when I game, I usually game for hours on end and I would like to hopefully extend the lifetime of this used graphics card I recently purchased by lowering the temperatures.


The GPU core idles at 124F (with the fan at 75% using RivaTuner), usually does not exceed 148F gaming (With the fan at 100% using RivaTuner).
The VRAM temperature of the card is not of concern, it does not get hot, the heatsink seems to be efficiently cooling the VRAM. I understand these are all reasonable temperatures but does anyone know anything else other than better thermal compound and forcing the fan up to 100% when I game to decrease the temperature of the card? I like my computer running COLD, my CPU, a core 2 duo E4500 overclocked from 2.2GHz to 2.8GHz, does not exceed 120F while gaming,. Currently my GPU idles hotter than my CPU gets while gaming, as I have said, I understand my card is running at more than reasonable temperatures, but when it comes to cooling, well I force that down with an iron fist and some extra fans. I am using a Tuniq Tower 120, however the stock heatsink on the 8800GTS seems adequate to cool the card a bit more but I can't seem to get it to cool down.


I will be replacing the thermal paste for Arctic Silver 5, think the RAM is cooled by thermal paste too, not thermal pads. Hope that's the case, thermal pads are annoyingly inefficient in most cases.


I have installed RivaTuner as mentioned above, it helps a lot. The card got to 160F running 3dmark06 because the card, from the factory, absolutely will not budge the fan speed from 60% unless the card breaks 212 degrees farenheit, and that, for me, is entirely unacceptable. For the record, I did not test this, I looked at the card's inbuilt fan control with RivaTuner.


This card is absolutely great but I put a lot of strain on it, I run Fallout 3 at ultra high settings, 1280x1024, S.T.A.L.K.E.R. Shadow of Chernobyl, also maxed. Plan to play through Half-Life 2, Half Life 2: episode 1 & 2 again. So, I'd like the card to run as cool as possible.


I know that Arctic Silver 5 will probably be my best bet, what's on there now judging from the heatsink goo VISIBLE at the VRAM is just white silicone based nonsense. That, or it's squished thermal pads.

My case, you're probably wondering what my computer case is. It is an Antec Two Hundred mid tower, the top 140mm TwoCool exhaust fan which came with the case has broken, the fan blade was brittle and came off, the fan was so quiet I didn't notice until I put my hand on my computer when I was hooking up a few USB devices and found the case to be vibrating badly. For a second I was wondering just what on earth could cause that. Anyway, so much for Antec engineering, this case has attacked me multiple times and already had three included items break. The only good fans antec makes are the good old fashioned high CFM ball fans, not the TwoCool or TriCool series. I will be plugging the top fan hole somehow, it causes temperatures to go up when it is open, only by a couple or few degrees. Airflow is strange, very, very strange.


I have two 120mm front intake fans, they push a combined amount of roughly 110CFM, i have a 120mm side intake fan which pushes another 40CFM. I also have a rear 120mm TwoCool exhaust fan which pushes 30 or 60CFM. I am trying to create a positive pressure system, more air in than out. The CPU heatsink has a 120mm fan that pushes about 70CFM, which pretty much flows directly out the back exhaust fan. I thought I'd mention that, I'm not certain but I believe the fact that there is only about two inches between the heatsink and rear fan causes some venting problems. The GPU vents hot air out the back of the computer, and the 70CFM 120mm front fan is blowing directly at it, along with the 40CFM 120mm side fan, so the GPU has plenty of air. The power SUPPLY in the bottom of the case acts as an exhaust fan (120mm) and I am unsure of its rate of airflow but I know it would not exceed the combined intake amount. It is not close enough to the GPU to be bothered by the hot air it generates, and the power supply its self generates little heat. It seems barely phased by my setup.


Anyway, if you have any idea's or question's, feel free to ask. Oh, and this is the exact GPU I own:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150204&cm_re=XFX_8800GTS-_-14-150-204-_-ProductI know you know this, but those temperatures are perfectly within spec, fairly good for an older, more power hungry card like that. There's absolutely no reason you'd NEED to lower them as that will not degrade the lifespan - if it was exceeding 100C regularly, it could be a different matter. With that said ...
Replacing the thermal paste with AS5, or preferably a better non conductive compound such as MX-2, could help the temps a little, I noticed around 3-4C drop on full load on an 8800GT from replacing the paste. VRAM is almost always cooled by thermal pads, which are a pain - make sure you don't accidentally damage any while removing the cooler. There's only so much the stock cooler can do though, only so much heat it can dissipate. If you're desperate to reduce the temperatures, about all you can do is change the cooler to a better, aftermarket one, but you're talking about nearly doubling the cost of your card then which is plain silly.
Hope this helps.Yeah I agree about using a aftermarket cooler, it's not needed. I was just hoping I could get a slightly lower drop. I"m just fickle about making my computer run ice cold.

Right now, I'm testing my CPU heatsink's passive thermal capabilities. I forgot to plug the fan in when i cleaned out the fan filter built into the front of my case and realized it was idling a mere 6-7F hotter... I've got it maxed using a system stress test built into Everest. If it runs cool enough I won't even switch the fan on unless I'm gaming. So far, 8 minutes, the CPU heatsink only climbed from about 83F to 106F, without it's fan spinning. I'll probably post a recommendation for this computer case and the tuniq tower 120 CPU heatsink. I have decided to take advantage of my GPU running cold, I have overclocked it to the factory overclock settings of some other similar 8800GTS's.

GPU Core: 648MHz (513MHz stock, 26% overclock)
GPU Core (Shader Domain), 1512MHz (1188MHz stock, 27% overclock)
GPU Memory 999MHz real, 1998MHz effective, (792 real and 1584 effective stock)

Idle temperature went from 118 degrees farenheit to 124 degrees farenheit. I will test this later to see how stable it is while rendering 3d applications.

For the record, I used RivaTuner, I recommend it for nVidia graphics card tweaking.Nice overclock you got on that - if it's stable, I'll be very impressed.
Good to hear about your heatsink doing well passively too, I'm surprised at that.Yeah I looked up the factory overclock settings, roughly 26%, so I overclocked it to that. It's working fine, 100% stable, this system is rock solid. I wish I had better RAM, I could then get this CPU to at least 3.2GHz, a 50% overclock.

As for the passive cooling, it's great, no more dusting out my heatsink and getting my fingers sliced in the extra-sharp super slicer cooling fins

Oh, the VRAM, it's running about 3 degrees hotter, as is another ambient temperature since I overclocked the card, the card its self is running about 6 degrees hotter on idle. I did not check the gaming temperatures but I will soon, not tonight, I'm exhausted. I had to do lawn work today, and battle through the scourge at wal-mart for food.Sounds like it's going well for you as far as the overclocking goes.
The trouble with lower FSB CPUs is that you do need better/faster RAM, if the RAM you have won't clock well. You may want to look at your motherboard temps though, I'm surprised you haven't mentioned those as every Nvidia board I've ever seen has been a furnace. If it's running hot, slapping a fan or better cooler on there, or just replacing the TIM if you haven't already, could help your CPU clock.My motherboard cooling is adequate, it has a heatpipe connecting the north and south bridges as well as the MOSFET, there's also a 40mm fan on the north bridge, as well as a 50mm fan blowing out the back through the MOSFET fan and the vent holes in the rear IO shield. My motherboard is currently running at 90F. Every other nVidia motherboard I have ran horribly hot, but this one seems adequately cooled. I would, however, like to put a heatsink on the SATA controller that's built onto the motherboard, it gets a bit warm to the touch with two SATA drives in there throwing DATA back and forth.

this is my motherboard:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130133&cm_re=P6N_diamond-_-13-130-133-_-ProductYes, I'm familiar with your board.
Glad to hear your board is running nice and cool, I've never seen an Nvidia board that was anything less than toasty no matter what kind of air cooling was thrown at it.
Which chip is the SATA chip you're referring to? Is it not on the southbridge?No, the SATA chipset is separate, sorry for the delay, I've been gaming the *censored* outta my 8800GTS.



You can see the SATA bus chip on the bottom left corner near the SATA ports, that's a naked shot of the motherboard, no heatsink. I'm considering putting a heatsink on the SATA bus, it doesn't get too warm but I like to make everything I can ice cold.

Here's a shot of the motherboard with the heatsink:

Even with the piping the last build i did with that board ran hot...
I replaced the southbridge fan with a beefier one and all was good to go....Ah, alright, the north bridge fan seems to suffice, though I do have one exhausting air out through the I/O shield, blowing through the mosfet heatsink. I haven't had any heat issues out of this computer really.Ah, I see the chip you mean now, if it does get hot I'd definitely slap a heatsink on there and it should work wonders.Yeah, a cold SATA bus is a happy SATA bus. I love the hot swap ability of this motherboard, can hot swap any SATA drive that's plugged in when it's booted. Only has two ports to support RAID, however, which is strange on a modern motherboard, but alright for me 'cause I'd rather be able to hot swap than RAID. Even stranger still is seeing the C Drive show up as a hot swappable drive.

I've never really had a problem with this before unless I was running too many things at once, but now it happens when nothing else but the video is running. Videos on sites such as youtube, videobb, megavideo do not play smoothly even when fully LOADED. How can I fix this?Do you have many processes running in the background? Have you TRIED CLEARING your Temporary Internet Files and Cache?Yes. I have cleared Temporary Internet Files, and have nothing else running in the background.Then it's your internet connection...Quote

do not play smoothly even when fully loaded

Dear Tech Experts,
As soon as I on my PRINTER, a loud high-pitched noise comes from the printer that never used to
come earlier. After this noise ends, the printer switches off. The model is HP Stylus T11.Check if the belt, which houses the cartridge, moves inside the printer or not. It might be the motor that is causing the screeching sound, during the initialization phase of the printer on turning it ON.Don't KNOW if this related experience will help. Their only real relation is they are both HP printers.


http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Other-Printing-Questions/High-pitched-screech-from-OfficeJet-Pro-8500-Wireless/td-p/134323/page/2I have seen this quite a few things. Could well be a jammed or stuck PRINT HEAD. The fact that the printer switches off points to this.

I have a portable hard drive that is experiencing some disk errors. When I try to copy certain files. I GET a CRC error. I'm trying to run chkdsk /R /X on the drive but it says "cannot lock current drive Volume dismounted. all open handles to this volume are now invalid" then it started the check, but remains at 0% complete. it's a 300GB WD hard drive. is it just slow? or is there something wrong? what else can I do to NOT lose this drive. I cannot afford a new one.PS. The check is at 26% So I guess it is slow. but I still want to save the HD...Run chkdsk /r without the "x" switch and see if that works. If that doesn't work download and run the hd utility from the drive manufacturer's website.Aight! Thanks! It's running it right Now. So if they doesn't work, I'll try it without /X! You rarely need any switch BESIDE the /r switch. I only suggested not USING the /x switch because of the "handles" message you got. But if it's running that's fine.thx. so the chkdsk finished. what exactly am I looking for? is completed. this is what I got.
312,404,288 KB Total Disk Space
3,415,072 KB in 901 hidden files
103,968 KB in 3,246 files
110,339,296 KB in 18,469 files
652,416 KB in bad sectors
197,973,504 KB are AVAILABLE

32,768 bytes in each allocation unit.
9,765,134 total allocation units on disk
6,186,672 allocation units available on disks

and during the check, it named some of the files I was having the CRC error with, it said "Windows replaced bad clusters in file "...File name..." of name (null)...
so can anyone translate? did this fix it? or did it just confirm the bad spotsCheckdisk found areas of the hd that the File Table thinks are occupied but really are not (bad clusters) and fixed them. This problem is generally caused by anomalous shutdowns (turning off the system with the power button instead of allowing it to shut down properly). This will often cause LOST clusters, bad clusters, or other software issues. It is not generally a disc problem per se.So I shouldn't be worried unless it gets worse? Right. You might want to run chkdsk /r on the drive once more when you have time, just to make sure it got everything (sometimes the second time through something else may come up). Or you can download and run the hd utility from the hd manufacturer's website.

I have an E Machine with Windows Vista. It worked completely fine turned it off for the night the next morning I FIRED it up. Everything BOOTED up fine all the normal noises, my screen then told me there wasn't a VGA signal and monitor was going to sleep. Unplugged it waited fired it up again. Got to welcome screen monitor told me it was going to sleep no signal. Is it my power supply?You're saying you never actually get to the desktop? Can you boot to SAFE mode? And no, it's probably not the ps.Quote

Got to welcome screen monitor told me it was going to sleep no signal

Okay, so I really have no idea what to do about my current computer problem. First things first, I'm on an HP tx2z Touchsmart Tablet PC, have Windows 7 (32 bit), and an ATI Radeon HD 3200 graphics card (not sure if the card matters though). My problem comes when I try to run Zsnes, a Super Nintendo Emulator. I've always ran it in the past (before updating to Windows 7). After the update to win7, I redownloaded Project 64 with no problems, and it worked fine, but yesterday I decided to download Snes9x (a different Super Nes emulator) instead of Zsnes, because I wanted to try it out. After I downloaded it, it wouldn't play and told me to download the newest DirectX, so I did, and afterwards nothing will play! I even deleted Snes9x and SYSTEM restored to a point a couple of days ago, and I uninstalled P64 and reinstalled both it and Zsnes, and neither will play! When I start up Zsnes I get the error message "DirectDrawCreateEx failed", so I ran Dxdiag, and from the very get go (every time I run it), I see the message "Error: Problem getting extra display info", and also DIRECT3D acceleration is showing "Not Available" (instead of enabled) in the display tab. I can't find anything on the net, so hopefully you GUYS can help me out! Thanks ahead of time.
where did you get the "newest DirectX"?

for snes9x and ZSNESW you should get 9.0c- neither works with 10 or 11 (but you can install 9.0c side by side with 10 or 11)http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/en/confirmation.aspx?familyId=2da43d38-db71-4c1b-bc6a-9b6652cd92a3&displayLang=en

This is what it told me to download- the additional components that supposedly make it work. try the offline installer.

http://www.filehippo.com/download_directx/

Okay, dl'ed that, and did setup, but still no dice. Ran dxdiag, still got the error message and direct3d not available, and tried to start up Zsnes and got the "directdrawcreate" error again. =/hmm...

does your graphics card show up properly in device manager?I'm pretty sure it shows up like it should...Windows Key +R

type "devmgmt.msc"


Open the "Display Adapters" Node.
What do you see listed? Any exclamation marks?

For reference here is mine:




Yeah, that's what I checked. All looks normal.



[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]So if the graphics card isn't the problem, do you have any idea what I could do? I'm stumped.Quote from: kmattack on June 13, 2010, 05:15:02 PM

So if the graphics card isn't the problem, do you have any idea what I could do? I'm stumped.

I just transferred my computer components to a new case, it had previously been WORKING fine.

Now whenever I turn it on, the fans/etc. turn on for approximately 1 second, then everything immediately shuts off.

Here are my specs:
Intel Desktop Board dg33fb
Intel Core 2 Duo E7500 @2.93 GHz (stock) w/ stock cooler
Diamond Radeon HD 4670 w/ Zalman VF900 cooler
Patriot PC2-6400 2GB RAM (2x1GB) PSD22G800K
Thermaltake 500w PSU
Maxtor 320GB HDD

I have already determined that it is not a PSU problem, as I tried it with two different PSUs and the problem persisted.

I also tried removing all components except the Processor/fan, and then the CPU fan did start up and stay on, and I got the BIOS code of 3 beeps.
Which means:
Quote

3 beeps - Base 64 K memory failure

* Reseat the memory.
* Make sure that the contacts on the memory and the socket are clean.
* Try removing one bank of memory modules at a time. Note: Some systems might need to have a memory module in Bank 0.
* Try using memory modules from the same manufacturer with the same part number and speed.
* Check for a faulty memory module by trying the memory in a known good system.
* Trying known good memory in the system.
* Check the power supply and check for power fluctuations.
* If the steps above do not resolve the problem, the desktop board may be defective. Try a different desktop board.

....
Something I've found in the past is some of the case lights and switches can be wired incorrectly from assembly.

Make sure the cpu cooler is on properly and thermal paste is properly installed. It is possible the cooler came loose with the move and the cpu is shutting it down from the heat?

Yo Buliwyf. Great to see you on here.

Weren't there other laptop you were looking at?In READING the specs on Dell's site, I couldn't find anything about what the standard Studio 15 ships with for video RAM, but it can be upgraded to 512 MB, for an additional cost, so if it isn't the top of the line for a desktop video card, but it still should be OK for most games.

The main objection I have to gaming on a laptop is screen size and lack of a decent mouse. By the time you buy a decent sized monitor and a real mouse, why not just buy a desktop in the first PLACE. It will be cheaper and easily upgraded in the future.Quote from: Calum on JUNE 12, 2010, 11:55:29 AM

Apologies for the late reply.
I'm sorry if you find my reply offensive, UNSCSpartan3, but what you said was equivalent to someone asking if an old 80GB IDE drive would be good for storing their entire media collection of hundreds of movies, thousands of songs etc, and if their mahcine would boot to a full OS in 10 seconds with that drive.
I did not mean to come across as a smart *censored*, but mistaking a very low end GPU for a high end one capable of what the OP requires is not (or should not be) an easy mistake to make, and it COULD have cost the asker a lot of money if they'd blindly listened to you (which I sincerely hope they haven't).

My System:

XP Home, 2002 edition, Service Pack 3
Asus MB
Intel Core 2 Duo (E7400)
2x 1024 DDR2 RAM (unsure of manufacturer)
Western Digital 250GB HD, This is the windows install.
Western Digital 750GB HD
Nvidia GeForce 7600 GS
Samsung Super Writemaster, TSSTcorp SH-S223F Disc Drive

The problem is that when I have windows boot as normal, most programs run with errors, graphical artefacts and random crashes. Not all, but most. Additionally, any unzipping/unraring processes inevitably have corrupted files unless the zip/rar is only a few mb in size.

When I was having some problems installing Company of Heroes patches, I was recommended to limit my memory in MS config to 512 to stop any errors in addition to stopping all non-windows programs booting at startup. I discovered this fixed all problems that I knew of with games and programs.

I'm not very well off financially, so I really don't want to have to fork out for new RAM (cheap as it may seem to you, I just don't have a spare $100 after rent and food). I'm hoping it's something simple that I've just missed, CONSIDERING that nothing actually seems to be broken.

Now that I'm starting to use this PC more, I'd like to know why I'm having these problems and any help would be greatly appreciated.

What I've tried so far: I've re-slotted the memory a few TIMES. I've used Memtest86+ on both sticks individually and together for at least 3 hours each (no errors reported). I've edited the CPU settings in BIOS, testing with ASUS speed-limiting and various other energy conservation tech on and off in various combinations. I've updated the drivers for basically everything I could find. (I'm pretty sure I have anyway, ASUS has a really poor driver site).

The only thing that seems to work is to set MAXMEM=512 in msconfig.Could you give some more details of the type of errors you get and the details of each that you see as they appear on the screen?Reset the BIOS back to default settings.Quote

Could you give some more details of the type of errors you get and the details of each that you see as they appear on the screen?

Reset the BIOS back to default settings.

We recently moved. Before the move the computer worked fine now it will not boot up.

Computer- unbranded build it yourself
Operating System- Window XP

Details- The computer was carefully packed but would have experienced a lot of shaking during the 6 days that it was in the uhaul. After turning on the power the fans spin and there is some sound from the hard drive. There are no beeps or other regular sounds of STARTUP. The monitor has been tested and works fine. There is no bootup whatsoever. The front of the computer has two lights one red and one green, the red light has what looks like a battery symbol next to it and is lit. The green light normally flashes/lights during startup but it does not light up at all now. I have blown out the dust and wiggled most of the conections but have not unplugged any of them yet.

Hope that is everything, any help is greatly appreciated.

PS: Did a search and found a similar problem from a year ago but no resolutionUnplug and re-plug all connections...
Remove and re-seat RAM modules...
Do the same for any add-on cards...

Double-check all connections at the rear of the machine.
Re-boot.

As always when working inside the case take anti-static precautions.You should do what patio suggested. The red light is the hard drive activity light. It's possible that the hard drive one of the connections is LOOSE. Open the computer cover. Then, unplug and replug the hard drive and CD/DVD drive connectors.

You should also remove and re-insert any add-on cards, if your computer has any. Also, remove and re-insert the RAM. If it's because of a loose connection, doing this much should get the computer to boot. If not, then just unplug the hard drive completely, and then start the computer. See whether the computer starts and gives and you get any display. If yes, then it may be that the hard drive crashed - test it in another computer and backup any data if you can access it someway.Okay, tried reseating all connections. Nothing. I disconnected the CD drive to remove the sounds that it made and listened to the hard drive. It is making a tick...tick... sound but does not whir.

I will try skipping the hard drive next as suggested and see what happens.That ticking sound is your hard DISK dying.Quote from: Allan on May 30, 2010, 04:10:03 PM

That ticking sound is your hard disk dying.

Could be, but does it share a data cable with the CDROM? The ticking could be the drive attempting to seek data.

Could be, but does it share a data cable with the CDROM? The ticking could be the drive attempting to seek data.

They did not share a cable as far as I can tell. An orange cable ran from the CDROM to the motherboard and an orange cable ran from the harddrive to the motherboard. I am far from an expert on sounds a hard drive makes but the ticking does not sound right to me...

have u tried safe mode it could be the fact that some hardware is damaged or software could be missing

if u have tried safe mode and it still doest work let me know

p.s also try skipping the hard drive

Yesterday I set up dual-screen on my computer with no problems.
Today the problems decided to show up late to the party.

I'm using a Gateway monitor as my main screen and a Coby LCD TV as the second screen(located to the right of the first one). They both are hooked into my video card using plain VGA cables.

System Specs
Model: Gateway LX6810-01
OS: Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
Processor: Intel Core 2 Quad
CPU: Q8200 @ 2.33GHz (4 CPUs)
RAM: 4096MB
Direct X: Direct X 11
Video Card: nVIDIA GeForce 9800GT

Booting with Main Screen Attached Only
(Also works with 2nd screen attached to the main screen slot.)
Works fine. I'm using the single screen to access this thread.

Booting with Both Screens Attached
When I try to boot with both screens hooked in both monitors are blank (with the Gateway in standby and the Coby on) until the "Windows Starting" screen suddenly appears on the Coby monitor. The screen will leave the Coby monitor and the Gateway will turn on, but then both monitors will display nothing until you hard reboot.

Booting with Main Screen Attached then Adding the Second Screen in the Display Menu
This was how I got the screen to initially work yesterday. I booted up with my main screen then after attaching the second screen I HIT "detect" in the display menu and after a quick black screen they both came up fine. However when I do this now after a quick black screen both DESKTOPS appear on my main screen and the second screen says "no signal". The start bar also goes MISSING when this happens so I have to hard reboot.

So any ideas on why my second screen suddenly decided to act up? Quote

Booting with Main Screen Attached then Adding the Second Screen in the Display Menu

HI:
I'm new to this board/chat thing, so forgive me in advance if I screw up!

I have a DELL Vista laptop (see- already made my 1ST mistake.... listed it as XP on my registration... need to know how to correct that too! )

I've had my Dell AIO 942 printer for years. I've never had a problem with it until recently.

I unplugged my laptop to take SOMEPLACE the other day. Since I reconnected, the printing onto my paper is extremely tiny. I made absolutely no changes to anything. This happens regardless of the site I'm printing info from, ie: my bank, an on-line store, etc. So, I know it's not the site's problem.

I tried to 'reset defaults' according to the instructions at the printer 'place???' on my control panel. I tried to change the font size. Nothing has helped.

LOOK, I'm getting older and already have issues with normal size print ..... so PLEASE HELP!!!

BTW... LOVE those little emoticon guys!

Thanks, Zora!http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080208215427AAm345h
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091228130720AAhzzNY
http://uk.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20081126071916AAKaFuK
See if one of these helps,truenorth

Quote from: Salmon Trout on May 31, 2010, 08:37:33 AM

Perhaps the motherboard and/or the psu just died?

Replace the ribbon cable with a new one.
Then re-boot...enter Setup and run the HDD detector in the BIOS...

And you disconnect it and everything happens like before?

Could you please use quotes so I know what info you are referring to? Thanks?

I hooked the secondary drive back up, and CMOS now sees both hard drives, and the CD/DVD drive.

And you disconnect it and everything happens like before?

My jumpers look like this:

:::::

The bold colons are the ones that have jumpers. Should I 1) move them; 2) leave them alone. Could this be the problem??

Do you mean that both drives are jumpered identically?

Drive makers sometimes use different schemes; the label on the drive should make things clear. What brand(s) and model numbers are the drives? You show 5 colons... do you have 10 or 9 pin jumper blocks, because your diagram looks like 9 pin jumpered for cable select.

THis is a Western Digital jumper diagram - (WD have special settings if only 1 drive is on the cable)

Honestly, it is not so SECRET because my lecturer advice me to "Use the Internet or any other reference material I can find to answer the question." Are there any problem for me to ask the homework questions in here?

Please let me know.Quote from: turbomen on May 30, 2010, 10:57:09 PM

Honestly, it is not so secret because my lecturer advice me to "Use the Internet or any other reference material I can find to answer the question." Are there any problem for me to ask the homework questions in here?

Please let me know.

This is the type of graphics card I have http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?item=n82e16814133222 well it is similar to what I have, I THINK I have the Chaintech instead of PNY but it had the same exact FAN. I replaced it then with this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835119079
Now this fan has CAME down pretty bad. Is there any cheap version solution to this problem? I'm going to BUY this card anyway http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102829 to replace the 8600gt but I want to fix it FIRST and give it to my dad because his onboard graphics card really fails.

Thanks in advance.What do you mean by "Now this fan has came down pretty bad."? truenorth

Quote from: BC_Programmer on May 31, 2010, 03:27:01 PM

If that wasn't the case we'd still think heat was a mystical substance called "caloric".

DRM also stands for "Direction du Renseignement Militaire (French military secret service)".

It's really the French that are destroying our DVD drives.

...

We better surrender. I know- We can ask them for advice on how to do that most effectively.

As a long time lover of the French language, and admirer of French culture, I really don't like remarks of that kind. In 1940, they were actually defeated in the field by the Germans having lost 100,000 dead. They did not just give up. For shame, BC.

Dear reader,

I'm an experienced user in the field of computing & hardware, however one mistake I made earlier has killed me.

I own a sabertooth 990FX in which I purchased a few months ago, now I have a couple of issues.
One of which, is I downloaded a NEW BIOS because it was "more stable" and I had encountered a BSOD earlier last week. I updated using the Ai suite and to my surprise it was going well, then at around 80% of flashing, the whole machine frooze up and made jittering noises through the speakers, I left it incase it was still working, it then stopped responding to everything & I had to hard reboot, when I tried this, nothing displayed on either of my two screens, I immediately took the CMOS & RTS Jumpers out and reset both of them & replaced my GPU to another slot, just incase, the mobo would power up & start "self-diagnosing" but then it would just get stuck on "CPU_LED" which would indicate a CPU issue, however I swapped it out for another and it still did the same.

I am confused to what I can do, I tried clearing everything in my arsenal and I don't think I can restore the BIOS unless there is some way that one of you can tell me.

I'm going to RMA this as faulty unless somebody can shed some light onto this.

My MOtherboard:
ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX AM3+

Currently i'm using an old faulty motherboard which likes to pump 12.8V of juice through it self... Lovely huh? And it freezes every couple hours too.

Help with the main point? <3If the motherboard is dead because of a failed flash, you might have a problem persuading Asus that the board went faulty if you actually killed it. Anyhow the BIOS is socketed so you can fit a pre-flashed chip from one of the many suppliers on the web for around $10-15, or send them your chip for re-flashing. Probably a good idea to specify which bios version you want on the chip.

just one example

HTTP://www.ebay.com/itm/BIOS-CHIP-ASUS-Sabertooth-990FX-/380378933951


The BIOS wasn't updated. since the flash process was interrupted (for whatever REASON) it never finished, so your BIOS is corrupted.

Depending on the board, there might be a few things you can try.

First: a lot of new Motherboards have two BIOS Chips, and if one fails or is flashed badly, the other one can be used. This is usually rather strongly advertised all over the place. I think it might be a feature of GiGaByte motherboards though, not ASUS.

Additionally, a lot of systems have a teensy basic bit of ROM that is used in such an emergency, where you place the proper files on a floppy disk and the ROM will flash the BIOS using that, at which point you can be up and running again. The instructions for that process vary depending on the specific board in question. I can't really find anything on your model that would point to this as a feature of the board. (Which is a bit weird since my old Super Socket 7 motherboard has this feature)

And there is of course actually replacing the BIOS chip itself.

And of course, although at this point it isn't very helpful at all- there is very seldom a reason to Flash your BIOS. BSOD errors are Issues with Drivers, and are so rarely even remotely related to BIOS revisions that it's not worth considering. Usually the only reason to flash a BIOS is to enable support for newer CPUs or different RAM speeds. (that is, hardware stuff).


Quote

Currently i'm using an old faulty motherboard which likes to pump 12.8V of juice through it self... Lovely huh? And it freezes every couple hours too.

...Currently i'm using an old faulty motherboard which likes to pump 12.8V of juice through it self... Lovely huh? And it freezes every couple hours too...

...the Voltage Rails being given to the Motherboard and other components are controlled by the Power Supply....

should I push it in until it clicks & doesnt come out easilly?

my girls computer is not working proporly.i need to find out how to fix it please.well when i START it up it turns on and the buzzy light stays on continuously and the processor fan goes really slow at first and then it goes really fast and stays that way.and then dose not display on the moniter and it has a built in graphics card and its a emachine amd athlon 64 3500+processor 2.2ghz and its a single core the video on it is a nvidia geforce 6100 gpu with available pci-express slot so will some one please tell me what to do please and thank u ahead of time


tyrant.Welcome to the forums

To begin troubleshooting this, you'll need to be comfortable with working INSIDE the machine.
Power down the machine, remove the power cord, and take the side panel off.
Check all the connections inside. In PARTICULAR, look at the main 24-pin power connector on the board, and the 4 or 8 pin supplementary connector. Make sure they are both plugged in securely.
Failing that, look for the CMOS battery, which is a small round silver battery on the motherboard. Remove this for 30 seconds or so, then replace it and try to power the machine up again.
If this doesn't help, look for your stick(s) of RAM. Remove it/them, and reinsert them one at a time, trying to boot the machine up each time. It could be a faulty stick of RAM causing this.

Please get back to us with the results of the above - if it's still having issues, could you tell us if anything changed or happened before this issue started?wow thank u for getting back to me so fast but i did everything u told me to do and nothing worked at all no changes and before this happened my girl told me that it shut down on her for no reason and she couldn't turn it back on right away so i made her turn it off for a while and unpluged it and then later that day it work and then a couple hours later it shut off again and now it doing all this so what u think please and thank u lots.


tyrant Quote from: tyrant011985 on April 28, 2010, 03:09:05 PM

...before this happened my girl told me that it shut down on her for no reason and she couldn't turn it back on right away so i made her turn it off for a while and unpluged it and then later that day it work and then a couple hours later it shut off again and now it doing all this...

xp pro new install, on new wd 500 gb drive, caviar black edition...*censored* just a few DAYS new, it makes alot of NOISE also...HIGH buzzingFrom what little information you've PROVIDED it sounds LIKE it may be a bad drive.

I'm trying to figure out a computer that's running Windows XP with a 75 GB hard drive. I wanted to free up space so I moved all large files (music, pics, video) to an external hard drive and deleted old files and old programs. When I check the properties of the drive, it says that I have used 48 GB. I still wanted to decrease the amount of space used, so I wanted to see which files were taking up space. I used jdiskreport and it is telling me that the drive is only using 15.5 GB. Why the discrepancy?

I have run chkdsk, DEFRAG, antivirus, antispyware, registry cleaner, and DISK cleanup. I don't know why the difference in space used.You might have a big chunk of it eaten up by system restore. That's not necessarily a BAD thing.Correct - it is probably system restore. If you disable system restore the space should immediately be available (note - all restore points will be deleted). You can also download treesize to see where on the disc space is being used
http://www.jam-software.com/freeware/index.shtmlI have already used disk cleanup to delete the last restore points. I ran a checkdisk repair again and it did repair some bad sectors. Now it's coming up as 46 GB used.

I have used jdiskreport to see what files are taking up what space. That's what first made me see that something wasn't coinciding.Quote from: Allybird on April 29, 2010, 08:03:38 AM

I have already used disk cleanup to delete the last restore points.

Disk cleanup doesn't delete restore points.

I believe it can be used to delete all but the most recent restore point BC.

Well, not on windows 7. I just checked


Oh wait a second... never mind, I didn't see the "more options tab" curses.

(Can you tell I haven't seriously looked at that program since around windows 98? )

Dear Computer Experts,
My EPSON STYLUS T11 has stopped making the high-pitched noise that it used to. That is solved. However, now it refuses to print. On switching it on, it stays idle (but the light WORKS) and on assigning it tasks (documents to print) it ignores it completely. Any ideas?How old is this printer? Was the termination of the "high pitched noise" coincident to the NEW issue arising?
Have you tried to contact Epson here http://www.epson.co.in/epson_india/printers_and_all_in_ones/inkjet/product.page?product_name=Epson_Stylus_T11 ? You might want to have a LOOK at this site to SEE if anything there might address your issue. I have NOT read it through but it is an Epson site that deals with your printer. truenorth

When ever i try to log in it logs me out instantly event in safe mode and when i start up it say primary hardrive not found now i might have turned in on when you go on the set up menu but i dont know how to turn it on please HELP my computer is my life.

Also before this happen i had like 47 trogent viruses but i got rid of them with avg
Your only option may be a repair install with the windows disk...Is this XP, Vista or Windows 7?

Otherwise in the Advanced startup menu try selecting last known working configuration. It could simply be the virus has used a logout exploit on your ACCOUNT. if you re using XP Pro, try pressing control - alt - Delete twice at the login screen. This will bring up a login box. in the username field type in administrator and leave the password blank. (unless you know you changed it when you first got the computer) and press ENTER and SEE if that will log you in.ok how do i repair the xp computer cause if i can't log on i can't use the disk right? AVG doesn't specialise in removing all Trojans...you're most likely still infected...

Visit Our Virus and Spyware section and FOLLOW the instructions at the top of the page and Post your logs...

When i on the switch, my cpu AUTOMATICALLY start without manual button press and then show error on screen that
"cmos setting wrong"
"Press F1 to Run setup and Press F9 to load default values".

What should i do? Plzz Help me..!! You DONT say whether this is a laptop or desktop but either way, if its only just started doing this, it likely that your cmos battery has failed.

Re-start and press F1 when to go into the BIOS set up. If the clock settings have gone BACK to 00:00.00 then the cmos battery is dead.

This is an easy fix on a desktop, more difficult on a laptop.i have pc... YAH the time and date is also not updated..
Thanks for Reply..!!!Sodde is absolutely correct. OPEN the box and replace the flat, round silver battery.

Hi all,
I have been giving a Packard Bell LAPTOP for free but the SCREEN is broken. I have removed it (samsung Lt150x3-124 15" xga). Can I replace it with any make/model as long as it is 15"?

cheersHighly unlikely, but Google "laptop screens" and you may find one that works.Cheers for the reply, I got a new screen for £80Is Packard Bell any better than they used to be?Quote from: Quantos on April 28, 2010, 02:36:16 AM

Is Packard Bell any better than they used to be?

On the other hand, the Picard Bowling balls were selling pretty well.

Is that a reference to his hair (or lack of).