Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

I have a desktop comp. that just shuts down for no reason. When it comes back on I get a MESSAGE saying that windows has recovered from a serios error.
I have windows xp. I have tried a system recovery and comp. won't stay on long enough to for me to get windows UPDATES. I was going to change hard drive but don't know if that is the problem. I am using another comp. for now.Does the system reboot or shut down? If it reboots, when the computer first starts tap the F8 key to get to the boot options screen. Select the option that says "Disable Restart on Error" (that may not be the exact wording, but it's close) and reboot. Next time the system encounters an error you should see a blue screen error message. Post that entire message here. If you do not get a blue screen message and the system continues to reboot or shut down your problem is either hardware or malware related.Allan is right, but also, is there a certain program or type of program that you are running when this happens? If you are playing graphic EXTENSIVE games, it could be a heat related issue with your video card, and a lot of times if you do get blue screens it can be a driver error or possibly a memory error. Just something else to think about...I did F8 and changed setting then restarted. Blue error screen only comes on for a second and I cannot read it. I've restarted several times and each time my desktop is either 1/4 of the screen too far to the left or the right, and cannot be moved.Start/Control Panel/System/Advanced/Startup and Recovery...uncheck Auto re-start on errors...
Re-boot.Blue screen error I am recieving:

A problem has been detected and windows has been shut sown to prevent damage to your computer.

BAD_SYSTEM_CONFIG_INFO

If this is the first time you've seen this stop error scree, restart your computer. If this screen appears again, follow these steps.

Check to make sure any new hardware or software is properly installed. If this is a new installation ask your hardware or software manufacturer for any windows updates you might need.

If problems continue, disable or remove any newly installed hardware or software. Disable BIOS memory options such as caching or shadowing. If you need to use Safe Mode to remove or disable components, restart your computer, PRESS F8 to select Advanced Startup Options, and then select SAFE MODE.

Technical information:
Stop: 0x00000074 (0x00000003,0x00000002,0x80087000, 0xC000014c

____________________________________


The only new things I have attached to my comp. are a monitor and a firewire card, both were installed almost 2 months ago. A laser mouse about a month ago. Also, the monitor is a small TELEVISION with PC input. I have not had any problems with any of this until the last few days.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/326679
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/247998

Hello: I am putting together a new computer and am totally confused about all the different terms: CPU, Pentium, AMD, and whatever. Can you help me, or where can I go here on your forums to find information about the most reliable and up to date equipment. Sorry to sound so totally newbie

In peace

Dr. DNo need to apologise about things you don't know, we're all here to learn
If you give us some information, such as what you want to use the PC for, your overall budget, what you need (just the PC, or PERIPHERALS like keyboard/mouse/monitor), and any other requirements such as size or LOOKS, we can help you put together a GOOD list of components to satisfy your needs.Actually, my son is the one who wants to build the computer. He wants to use it for his university work. This involves the following:
1. uploading software that involves audio and video lessons. Educational CDs, DVD, etc.
2. He also teaches and wants to be able to film his classes on his digital camera and load them into the computer and burn them onto a CD.
3. We also use an old fashioned, but very well working video camera (the kind that uses a cassette tape inside--sorry to not know the terminology better) and we have a movie box by PInnacle systems which translates these into digital form. This requires a lot of working memory.

4. We also have a Canon IP400 printer that we use to print pictures and a LIDE 90 scanner that we use for documents and pictures so we need the necessary memory and whatever else to deal with that.

5. We would use an ADSL modem hookup, keyboard, mouse, flat monitor, speakers (not professional, but good enough) so we need a computer that would carry that kind of thing.

6. Well, you're probably thinking--these people want everything! But I can tell you that we don't do games, so whatever you need to handle games--their creation and playing them--would not apply to us.

Size, looks, etc., is secondary. He'll be putting this together piece by piece--motherboard, processor, whatever else, so we need to know what we need to buy to carry what we do. And of course, maybe have a little room in case we ever want to upgrade.

I don't know about costs at all for this type of thing. Some of what he buys will be subsidized by his university and we won't know how much until we take them a list of stuff. Does that make sense? So, if you can just tell us what we need that is fast, reliable, and meets his present and seeing what his job is, possibly future requirements, we would greatly appreciate it.

Thanks so much!

In peace

Dr. D'EliaFar be it for me to discourage the "building" of a computer ( assuming we are talking about a desktop as opposed to a laptop). The experience can be gratifying as well as educational. However reviewing your requirements there is nothing there that requires high end parts (such as modern gaming would). So i am wondering why you/your son want to build a computer when so many choices exist ready built (with warranties,etc) that will off the shelf more than meet your stated uses?truenorthwell, frankly because, although we are Americans, we are living right now in the Middle East. Finished computers are available but there is a huge import price slapped on them, which makes them almost inaccessible. Whereas if you have the savvy to be able to choose the correct parts and find a friend to put them together for you, you can get what you need for an affordable price.
So that's why we're trying to sort out all the nitty gritty, like which CPU to get: Intel Pentium 4 or AMD, or whichever, or which motherboard, etc. If you can advise, that would be great.

Thanks again

Dr. DSince you are not using your new system for playing games, there are several good motherboards that have intergrated video,audio and networking included which will help reduce the cost.

Just make sure that the one you choose will support plenty of memory (8GB or 16gb or more) as this seems like it maybe what you will need. Even if you can get by with only 4gb of memory to start with, you will be able to upgrade later if needed.

If you choose a motherboard that has intergrated video, make sure that it also has at LEAST one PCIe (pci express) slot included (most do) as this will enable you to upgrade by installing a seperate video card at a later time if needed.

If you need help deciding which hardware to purchase, just remember that everything connects to the motherboard, so by reading the motherboard specifications you will know if a component will work with it or not.

For more information about the best brand pc hardware check out the squidoo lens at http://squidoo.com/best_brand_pc_hardware .

If you need help when building your new computer, one good resource for explaining how to assemble a computer can be found at http://squidoo.com/how-to-assemble-a-computer I want to buy a laptop but i don't know what is the best for me. I dont have many money because of that I wan't to buy from www.hpcheap.com/store . What do you think is best for me? trapatony, Welcome to the CH forums. It is concider ed bad forum procedure to piggy back unto anther's post with your own issue. Please re post your question on a post of your own creation and I'm sure the help you seek will be forthcoming.truenorthI'm not sure what parts are available where you live, where you would buy from, or what the pricing is like there, so all I can do is give a rough idea.
Your requirements are fairly modest so there's no need to go crazy with hardware, but having upgrade options available is always a good thing.
What I would recommend is something like:
AMD Athlon II X2 240/245/250 CPU - a nice dual core processor, very cheap with unbeatable performance for the price. Future upgrades are nice and easy, but if you want more multitasking performance grab an Athlon II X4 620/630/635 instead.
Asus M4A785TD-V Evo - probably overkill for the board, but a good solid model, lots of features and good upgrade options. Decent onboard graphics.
4GB of DDR3 RAM - good rbands include Kingston, Corsair, Crucial, G.Skill, Geil, and probably more. Speed and latency don't have a big impact on performance so don't worry about those.
Corsair CX400W PSU - a very good PSU.
Antec 300 case - again, probably overkill, but it's a good solid case, nice and roomy inside, lots of drive bays and good cooling. Usually available at a good price.
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12, Samsung Spinpoint F3 or Western Digital Blue/AAKS HDD - all three are great drives. Available in a range of sizes, best to get more than you think you may need.
Pretty much any DVD drive, I like Lite-On drives but others have their own preferences, I've used a lot of brands with no isses.

I don't think I have forgotten anything, but if I have then do feel free to slap me upside the head.
I hope this goes some way towards helping you out, as I say it's very general as I'm really unsure of pricing and availability over there.
Feel free to ask any questions you may have about the choices I picked, or indeed any alternatives you're interested in.

Quote from: rthompson80819 on April 20, 2010, 08:21:21 PM

Are you sure those voltages are for the ENTIRE power supply, or just one voltage.

Those are both really both low numbers.

i looked it up on the internet and the one i got installed is a 250 watt and the old one was 300 watt but the main problem was that the computer would die... even though the 300watt was still on there

The computer is dying because the power supply is defective. Just because it is a higher wattage doesn't mean it's going to work. Using a lower wattage power supply helped isolate the issue, but a 250 watt supply is evidently not enough for your needs!

You'll need to get a power supply similar to the wattage of your old one... 300 watts or higher..

Hello everyone, i just built a new desktop pc, and im having some issues with it. first let me list whats in it.

1. Motherboard: Gigabyte p55m-ud2, 64-bit
2. Processor: Intel I5 2.66 GHz 8MB Cache
3. Video: Dual Radeon HD 4670 HIS, 1GB DDR3, Crossfired
4. Hard Drive: 2x Western Digital 500GB Sata 2, Raid0
5. RAM: 2x 2GB sticks ADATA Ram
6. Power supply: Apevia java power 650w
7. OS: Windows 7 home PREMIUM 64-bit

for now thats all i can think of that might be pertinent as far as hardware. i know my way around a comp, but im no expert, im not good with the technical details and so forth, so i have no doubt ive done something wrong, but i cant figure out what.

my first issue is this system doesnt seem to run as fast as i think it should considering the hardware thats in it. i would think that it would run Crysis with maxed video no prob. it wont.

my SECOND problem is that there is a random beep that is driving me nuts. when i boot the comp, there are 4 lights on the MB that light up, 2 are green, 1 is orange, and 1 is red, i have no idea what they mean. anyway, it passes the post test, and loads windows no prob. if im playing a game, no beeps, but if the system is idle for any period of time i hear "blip" , a few seconds pass, "blip", another second passes, "blip", and i hear a fan increase rpm's then drop back down again. i have plenty of fans in this system, i dont think its overheating, but i do feel like this is hardware related, somehow. also, ive tried my ram in both single and dual channel mode, neither seems to make a difference.
i would greatly appreciate any questions, comments or advice on this so i can GET the most out of my new system. thanx!Since you've already tried both RAM modes have you considered just SETTING it up without crossfire to see if that makes a difference ? ?
You may want to also DLoad INSTALL and run SpeedFan and post your temps...
Do it at normal and then after about 20 minutes of gaming...

Nice rig.ok, here are the temps from speedfan.

idle operation:

temp1: 37c
temp2: 25c
temp3: 28c
HD1: 45c
core 0: 38c
core 1: 37c
core 2: 38c
core 3: 37c

after 30 minutes of gaming:

temp1: 44c
temp2: 25c
temp3: 35c
HD1: 46c
core 0: 44c
core 1: 44c
core 2: 43c
core 3: 43c

also, i have undone the crossfire and used just a single video card with crysis, it didnt do too bad on high, much better than with Crossfire, however my video card overheated and crashed my system. after restarting and letting it cool off, everything still works like it did, so no damage done.
when i play crysis with the crossfire up, on both high, and very high, the sky is flashing, and has weird designs

im just at a total loss here, dunno what i should do or how to go about it, dont wanna take it to a comp tech here in town, they just want to make money off me, and i dont have any left after building this rig, lolI don't see any temps there to be alarmed about. Do you know whehter any of those temps reported by SpeedFan are for your video card? You might try http://www.cpuid.com/hwmonitor.php for more descriptive titles on the report screen.I agree with Soybean here as i often do...
None of those temps jump out at me.

But i suspect 1 of the 2 cards is faulty...you may have to test them 1 at a time to see which one is the culprit...

PS...in a crossfire setup if one of the cards is underperforming it will drag down the performance as the other is working harder to compensate.i used cpuid like u suggested, ran crysis, and my high temp on the vid cards is 52c, as we speak the card that my monitor is plugged into is running at 46c, the other is at 35cok, so i took out one video card, and ran crysis on very high, and so far Ive had no problems at all, the game runs great! so i guess its safe to say the one i took out is faulty in some way, because i tried it by itself yesterday and the game was choppy, with flashing sky and so on.

however, i still have the beeping problem. this doesn't seem random or intermittent to me, there seems to be a pattern, and i believe it is definitely hardware or bios related, possibly some setting i have set wrong, or haven't set that should be or something of that nature...any feedback on this would be appreciated, and btw, thanx for all the help so far, as well as the compliment on my rig, this is the first new comp ive had since buying an HP with windows ME on it about 10 years ago, lol. i want this thing to run whatever game i put in it and frankly i think it should for the hardware thats in the case.You should be able to find out more info on the beepcodes @ GigaBytes' site...

I have a 3DLabs graphic card that I need drivers for. How do I TELL what model it is?

ThanksDLoad install and run Everest Home...
If it does not list it try CPU-ZYeah I have that program but I couldn't install it in the state that the computer was in. It's a rather old thing I'm fixing up for the grandkids to learn on. I actually found the model when I rebooted. Right after the Bios pages showed another page came up that had the info I needed. The card model is Oxygen VX1.


Thanks,
GIF it's an older machine...which you didn't state then use AIDA 32...Quote from: patio on April 20, 2010, 09:47:34 PM

If it's an older machine...which you didn't state then use AIDA 32...

(2) Flat Panel monitors show XP STARTING up but then GOES blank on both LAPTOP and desktop. Have tried NEW cables and updating drivers.What happens if you only connect one display at a TIME? Do they both function normally that way?This is the ONLY monitor for the desktop. STARTS then disappears

Back on topic...

I let it sit in a very warm room for the weekend. It seems to be - MOSTLY - OK. At one point, it recognized the subdirectory structure, but no files in any of the folders. But that seems to have passed.

So I was able to back up the backups.

The next question is... Should I trust it to continue to be OK? Or should I just go out and buy a new one right now?

Thanks.Quote from: rjbinney on April 19, 2010, 02:50:44 PM

Back on topic...

I let it sit in a very warm room for the weekend. It seems to be - MOSTLY - OK. At one point, it recognized the subdirectory structure, but no files in any of the folders. But that seems to have passed.
So I was able to back up the backups.
The next question is... Should I trust it to continue to be OK? Or should I just go out and buy a new one right now?
Thanks.

The contacts are covered in sugar water now. Take the enclosure apart, rinse off the parts, let it air dry and hope to god it WORKS when it's dry.

If it doesn't, then your screwed.

I have two SATA drives which I am trying to install on a new motherboard. The first is fine. I've installed XP on it and it works fine on its own. If I attach the second drive in order to format it the MACHINE will not boot. I get no POST 'beep' and I get a screen which offers me F2 for BIOS or F11 for Setup screen (can't remember the exact wording) but selecting either of these options does nothing EVEN though the responses onscreen imply the machine is taking the required action. I have tried installing the second drive on its own and trying to boot from CD but the same SCENARIO results. I have also tried installing an IDE drive as a secondary drive but when I do this I get the dreaded BSOD. It's an AMI BIOS. Any ideas?How are they setup?
Look in the BIOS to see which is disk 1 and which is disk 2.
Are both set to be master or slave?
Do you have CS selected but the drives in the wrong order?
Which is set to boot first?

It's my understanding that it's not necessary to jumper for Master/Slave/Cable Select with SATA drives and I get the same result whether I have them both attached or the unformatted one on its own so which order they're set is surely irrelevant? In any case, I can't get to the BIOS if I have the unformatted drive attached as the screen is frozen. Thanks for the response, anyway.How many SATA ports does this machine have ? ?
Has the drive been formatted yet ? ? Many ship without formatting.
What PSU do you have and what is it's rated wattage ? ?Quote from: patio on April 23, 2010, 06:31:55 PM

How many SATA ports does this machine have ? ?
Has the drive been formatted yet ? ? Many ship without formatting.
What PSU do you have and what is it's rated wattage ? ?

Hi,
I got a new motherboard its a ECS 946GZT-AM V1.0. I plugged everything in correctly, and when I press the power button the computer turns on, CPU Fan is spinning, along with the fan on the case and the fan on the my GPU. But there is no video on my moniter and all it says is "No Signal". I tried plugging my monitor into the onboard video and the dedicated video card, but neither got a signal. When I boot up, I hear no beeps but I do hear something but I don't think its a beep, its LIKE 2 extremely short chirps that you can barely hear, I doubt its a beep code.

These are the specs
Intel Core 2 Duo E6850 3.0GHz
ECS 946GZT-AM V1.0 Motherboard
2 GB Kingston 800MHz RAM
Zotac 8600GT 512MB DDR2 GPU
Some 500W power supply

I put my old motherboard back in(ASUS P5GC-MX) and they video worked perfectly without a flaw, so its not a video card or CPU problem.

ANY help is greatly appreciated

-Erol

EDIT: Just noticed that my CD/DVD Drive has a green little light on it that is flashing 3 times then stopping, then again 3 times and stopping, each light flash lasts for about 1 second, but I'd say even shorter.Could be a bad motherboard. If your video card works with your old motherboard and neither the video card or onboard video works with the new motherboard, then I would say you have a new faulty motherboard.

If it was the driver , then you shoud still get a signal, if it was the bios, then the intergrated video would work, if the power was not connected or the card was not seated properly the onboard video would still work.

Sorry but probably a bad motherboard

Could there be anything else then a bad motherboard

This is the 2nd motherboard I got that is powering up by has no video on onboard or dedicatedOne other thing to look for - if you have a video card installed that has more than 1 output (such as VGA and DIV or 2 DVIs), then if possible try connecting EVERY way you can as your video card may have a bad output module, also when you try the onboard video, make SURE the video card is not installed because the onboard video may be automatically disabled when a PCIe card is installed (maybe, maybe not) but it is something else to try.

Are you getting to see the p.o.s.t. (Power On Self Test) when you first turn your computer on, or is your screen black the whole time?
When you first turn your computer on you should be able to see (very briefly) the bios version, system memory and several other things that will come on your sceen very quickly and then go off, after a second or two windows should start trying to load.

Can you see anything on your screen when you first turn on your computer?

It also could be that if you had your operating system installed on your hard drive with the old motherboard and you just moved it to your new motherboard the O.S. may not be able to boot correctly with the new motherboard. In the Bios of the new motherboard it could be selecting your dvd/cd drive as the first boot device and this could explain why the light is blinking, as it may be looking for a bootable disc, and since there is no bootable disc in the drive and no DRIVERS loaded for the video it will show no picture.

But the bios should still have a generic driver in it that will at least show you the P.O.S.T. messages...

So, if it was me, I would
1. Double check the paper work that came with my new motherboard and make sure that any jumpers are in the right position.
2. Take the hard drive out and disconnect it from the system completely.
3. Put a windows bootable disc in the dvd/cd and turn the computer on to see if am able to see the P.O.S.T. message.

If this did not work , I would contact the vendor I got the motherboard from and ask for an RMA number to return it.
If this is the second board like this I had to return, I would get a different brand, Like an Asus motherboard.

Hope this helps...

Hi,
I am using windows XP and it has blue screen problem when running normally. So i am running my PC in safe mode but I am not able to hear SOUNDS. Can any please tell me hoe to enable SOUND when you are running your PC in safe mode.
You cannot have sounds in Safe mode. the very idea of Safe Mode is to not run unnecessary drivers.

In order to solve your issue it will require you to GET NORMAL Mode working. can you provide more information about your blue screen problem?ya it says PAGE FAULLT IN NON PAGED AREA.
and says findgoff.sys is the error file . when i am deleting that file in safe mode it is again generatedAre you using and/or is GOFF installed on this machine ? ?

Hello when I back up my files from Windows XP to my WD external HARD DRIVE using Windows One Care. Windows One Care tells me they are backed up but I can't FIND them on my WD external hard drive. I have configured the WD external hard drive to Windows One Care. Anyone know how can I resolve this?

I Am facing a PROBLEM with Precision T5500 workstation,



“Product Name Dell Precision WorkStation T5500



OS Windows Vista Business



Issue:



While installing the OS the Workstation is HANGING sometimes it shows Blue Screen Error with message "system halted" I tried Dell Diagnostic test during the startup but during the memory test it either it stops at 5% or the workstation will restart



Troubleshooting Steps:

1. Replace the RAMs With 12GB (3 X 4GB 1066MHz ) in DIMM 1,2&3

2.Update the BIOS from A03 to Latest Version A05

3.Change The VGA Card with “ 256MB DDR2 ATI RADEON HD 3450”





General notices:

· When I use 2GB(2 x 1GB) During Diagnostic the Workstation restart at 5%

· when I use 12GB(3x4GB) during Diagnostic the system Hang at 5%

· The heat sink is over heated”

Please Help

Thanks in Advance
Shine If it's overheating, then it may be the FAN.

Homebuilt ASUS A8N-E MB, 4 GB RAM, AMD Athlon x2 @ 2.4 GHz, Win 7

System was in standby two nights ago. In the morning, I couldn't get it to "start." I finally pressed the reset button and got 1 long and 3 short beeps from the BIOS. My research indicated that this was the video card - about 4 years old, so made sense. Replaced the video card and 1 long and 3 short beeps and no video! The computer otherwise seems to work ok - all of the fans spin, hard drives show activity (in fact, it seems to me that the system boots into Windows but I can't be sure because of no video), normal noises, etc.

So far, I've replaced the video card, pulled all of the RAM except one module (and swapped it for another one), replaced the CMOS battery and still get error beeps on STARTUP. I also tried a NEW PSU, and, interestingly, no beeps BUT also no video.

I don't know for sure but believe that a storm occurred during the night that the computer was in standby - but the system was plugged into an APC UPS.

All thoughts will be appreciated.Sounds like a power surge got the psu which got the video. Fans spinning & hard drive activity only indicates that some of the +12VDC is functional. Is it possible that the monitor was damaged, too?Quote from: Computer_Commando on June 17, 2010, 12:55:54 PM

Is it possible that the monitor was damaged, too?

...1. Additionally, the computer was plugged into an APC UPS.
2. In checking around, I've found quite a few ASUS MB 1 long 3 short beep issues without resolution.
3. When I get the parts for the new system, I'll try the new PSU and finally eliminate that possibility; but, I've tried two other PSU's without success.
4. ...I read that the Antec "continuous power" PSU's aren't compatible with APC UPS's - do you know anything about that?

Specific on the hardware (MB, PSU, etc.) would be helpful.your right about the HAST on new mo/bo....this was the reason i replaced it in the FIRST place...my disc is genuine. will check on msdn article and thanks ..will KEEP you POSTED i really appreaciate all your help on this.....pat

Hi. I don't know if this is the right place in the forums to ask it, but i was wondering how i COULD improve the performance of my Celeron Processor that works on my laptop.

It's just that when i try some simulators e.g MSTS (Microsoft Train Simulator), Railworks (Train Simulator), UK Truck Simulator, they seem to be very very jumpy in places and uk truck is the worst of them all.

When i downloaded a program called fraps, it says that uk truck simulator was only 3-5 FPS. In MSTS it was about 30 FPS and Railworks i don't know about but i am guessing it is about 10-15 FPS.

Here is information about my computer:

-Graphics Driver: Intel(R) Graphics Media Accelerator Driver for Mobile (Going to get updated to V8)
-Hard Disk Memory: 2 GB
-Hard Disk Space: 156 GB
-Processor: Intel(R) Celeron Processor
-Reboots(Whole computer restarts): 3-6 Times
-Processor SPEED: 1.66 GHz

any help will be apreciated.

Mat

Welcome to the forums!
Unfortunately, you have a laptop, which has a slower, old-ish mobile processor, as well as integrated graphics. Together, they won't be able to play any sort of modern games, I'm sorry to say there really is nothing you can do about it though other than to basically buy a new PC (which is not advice I give often).It's OK:

I was actually thinking of buying a new PC but unfortunately i don't have enough money for one yet. but i will soon...hopefully

I heard about the i7 processors and they look so cool.

BUT , i heard that you can buy new processors by buying a CD? i don't know if that's true but i will double check that. mabye i just saw the box cover that and thought 'oh ok, you can buy processors by buying cd's of them'.


But thanks anyway

Matnope. they are definetly not on cd. i don't know why i thought that the new processor can be installed by a cd. if so, that would be very wierd.

also, do you already get the i7 processor with windows 7? There is an old "joke" from IRC that goes something like this:

Code: [Select]<PersonA> My computer says I need more RAM.
<PersonB> You might try getting more RAM.
<PersonA> Can I download more RAM into my computer?

Basically, the "joke" stems from the common confusion for many people between software and hardware.

hardware is something you can physically touch or see. for example- when you think "processor" or CPU, or hard disk, those are physical objects.

Software is everything else (aside from firmware, which I'll touch on in a moment I suppose). For example, if you think "microsoft word" the closest you can come to a "physical" representation would be the product box and maybe the install disk. sure, the install disk is actually hardware, but it's only use is to store software. The software, strictly speaking, is really a set of instructions- a recipe, if you will. you still need the "ingredients" (computer and peripherals) to follow the "recipe", and the recipe certainly doesn't come with those!

yet another way to think about it is to use the analogy of ourselves. When most of us read a book, we use our imaginations to create the scenes in our head to try to understand the concepts involved, the characters, etc. In that sense, you can say it's a "simulation" being performed by our imagination at the direction of the story itself. Obviously, the text on the page only provides input. In this sense, our mind is essentially the "hardware" and the book is the software that we are "running".

Now, all that in mind- asking:

Quote

also, do you already get the i7 processor with windows 7?

So....your laptop is talking to you?

So....your laptop is talking to you?

Where's the joke?

it is not possible all telecom have disturbances

This is what i have so far

GA-P55A- UD3L MB
Intel i5 1156
DDR3-10600 (2X2GB sticks)
Centurion 550 mid tower case W 2 fans
400W power supply

After assembly I tried powering it on and it comes on for 1 -2 SECS then powers off in a continous LOOP, I disassembled everything down to just the CPU and CPU fan and still problem remains. When I plug in the 4 pin 12V connector it doesn't come on at all......any suggestions?......Thanks in advancePower_good signal maybe..

Try another power supply of equal or greater wattage.I've had this 1-2 second power on-off thing before. For me it was a loose screw that was short-circuiting my Mobo. Check for loose screws.

Have you tried the pen drive in a rear USB port ? ?
Does the pen drive show up in another working PC ? ?I am accessing the same for the past 8 months, from the past one week i am not able to access the same. I am tring the same from the USB Port only. EVEN i have tried from other PC's also, since they have removed the access from my collegues PC's also.

Kindly give me a suggestion.Dear TEAM,

Yesterday, while watching a movie (in my DVD), in the middle of the movie i got some distubance on the monitor and also it has given some sound (usually we get while watching live TELECAST or movie on tv) and suddenly the monitor got off. After that when i started again my pc has started without beep sound and monitor got on with the greet light after few seconds the light become orange / yellow. Today again i have opened the cpu and removed the 2 RAMS and cleaned the dust that has been stored on the RAM.

Please let us know, what will be the problem.

Regards,
V K SaravananYou need to stop posting new PROBLEMS in an old thread. Just start a new thread for the new problem.Dear Team,

Currently i am having HCL P4 PC and having 256 MB RAM, Can I go for Ram upgradation. And, will my PC support to install TV Tuner Card.

Please let me know to what extent i can upgrade my RAM.


Regards,

V K Saravanan

I was wondering if anyone knew of a utility that displays an image of the CD or DVD surface and references where data ( files ) are stored on it. Also I cant seem to find any information at google etc showing if Files are burned to a CD or DVD are alphanumerically order burned as to if the inner most track is files/folders named starting with 0 thru 9 to A then to Z at the edge of the CD or DVD.

So if you had files and folders named for example 000.bkp, Xeon.zip, and Parts.xls if the data would be burned to the CD or DVD starting from the inner most track with 000.bkp, then Parts.xls, then last Xeon.zip

* I am working on trying to figure out how to tell a CD/DVD Rom to start reading data in at a specific block location, skipping over a section. I think I found a way to do this with some programming. But I need to know where physically exactly on the CD a file resided instead of Windows searching the entire CD for the file.

Any help greatly appreciated. =)I can't even begin to help you here I was just wondering why you would need/want to do this?The file offsets are given in the CD Index, the format of which depends on the standard of the burn.

The actual "ordering" of the files being burned depends entirely on the whim of the program burning them.Thanks for feedback on my issue... In regards to why I want to try to achieve this, it is to see if I could "protect" software from piracy by making the inner most tracks unprotected read by windows etc while protecting the outer most tracks by intentionally placing a corrupt MARKER between the inner most track and outer tracks. A program that I wrote would require exclusive access to the hidden by orphanized lead in path. If the lead into the consecutive path is unavailable to windows it will not address it and so your media couldnt be easily pirate duplicated. The software I created would address this data on the hidden by orphanization and require this data to operate. The program would specifically tell the CD-ROm or DVD-Rom to read in the segment of data at a start and stop position which would then have to match that of which is in the compiled program.

This is why trying to get this to work would require knowing the physical position of the orphaned data and where to place the corruption that severes the read by windows leading up to it.

Other thoughts on protection was to make my software available on a pen drive with copy /read protection, but I cant find anything out there that will allow for the protection from piracy affordably and effectively, so i have taken it upon myself to see if I could come up with a better method.

Brainstorming methods, a read/only CD or DVD seems like the best logical method of file system read protection. As for to do it via USB would require an instruction that would try to disable Windows COPY, so the software could operate, but while the USB pen drive is in the drive it block the ability to copy the pen drive to duplicate it as well as file explore and grab the files off of it, which I dont even know where to begin to make that work without unstable results to peoples systems.

The key required methods for software activation are ok, but keys can be shared and key generators can be RUN against it. It would be nice to make a physical piece of media required to run the software yet unallowing conventional pirate copy methods.


In addition the software I wrote also will be a hit with the younger GENERATION which are more prone to Pirate it, so before I release it as well as declare what it is capabile of, I need to have it protected first in an economical and somewhat foolproof from piracy manner.I knew "CD-Index" didn't sound right when wrote it previously. It's actually a TOC (Table of contents).


There are several basic ways of protecting a Disc from being copied:

Incorrect TOC and its Consequences
TOC invalidation is a cruel, ugly, but strangely widespread technique in protection mechanisms. End-user copiers (Easy CD Creator, Stomp Record Now!, Ahead Nero) actually go a little nuts when encountering discs of this type. Copiers of protected disks (Clone CD, Alcohol 120%) are much more loyal to an incorrect TOC. However, in order to obtain a usable copy, they require a specific combination of reading and burning devices. Even given this, successful copying of these discs is not guaranteed.

The burning device must support the RAW DAO (Disc At Once) mode, i.e., the mode by which the entire disk is written at a single pass. The RAW SAO (Session At Once) mode isn’t suitable for this purpose, since it orders the drive to write the session contents before writing the TOC. Consequently, the drive has to analyze the TOC on its own in order to determine the session length and its starting address. An attempt to write an incorrect TOC in SAO mode generally results in unpredictable drive behavior. Consequently, it is pointless to hope for the generation of a usable copy of a protected disc! As a rule, the first session with an incorrect TOC encountered by the drive proves to be the last. This is because there is no room to write all of the other sessions (TOC invalidation is usually aimed at increasing the session size to several gigabytes).

The CD-reading device, besides reading in a Raw mode (which is supported by practically all drives), must be able to recognize an incorrect TOC. When it encounters such a case, it must automatically switch to a “reserved” addressing resource, namely, to the Q subcode channel. Otherwise, the session containing the incorrect TOC will be unavailable for reading even at the sector level.

Thus, not all equipment is appropriate for copying discs with incorrect TOCs. About one third of all available copier models are unsuitable for this purpose. In order to find out if the model that you have chosen supports the RAW DAO mode, refer to the online Help system of Clone CD, which provides a long list of various drives (unfortunately, the ones that I have chosen are not listed here), along with their characteristics. Another approach is to issue the 46H (GET CONFIGURATION) SCSI/AT API command and check the drive’s response. Of my two copiers, only NEC supports the RAW DAO mode. The situation is even more complicated with regard to determining the ability of reading incorrect sessions, since this ability represents exclusively internal drive logic. As a rule, even if the drive is capable of working with an incorrect TOC, the drive itself does not indicate this, and drive manufacturers usually do not advertise this feature. This information has to be found experimentally. For instance, take a disk with an intentionally invalidated TOC (later in this chapter, I’ll explain how to create one), insert it into the drive, and try to read sectors from an incorrect session. Different drives might react very differently. For instance, PHILIPS, depending on the “mood” of its circuitry, might either report a read error or return a stream of unintelligible gibberish, where even a SYNC in the raw header isn’t recognizable.

The main drawback of protection mechanisms based on TOC invalidation is that some drives refuse to recognize these disks, and, therefore, make playback impossible. A legal user, who has suffered inconveniences due to the incompatibility of his or her hardware with the protection mechanism, will, in the best case, complain and return the disk to the manufacturer. Naturally, this can be only done if he or she is able to eject this trash from the drive. This question is problematic, since the embedded microprocessors of some drives simply “hang” when they attempt to analyze an incorrect TOC. In these cases, the drive, literally speaking, retreats into its shell. It becomes fully abstracted from all of the “irritants” of the outside world, including the user’s attempts to eject the disk. Of course, the hole for ejecting disks in emergency cases hasn’t been removed entirely, but, according to some rumors, it isn’t present on all drives (although myself have never encountered a drive lacking this feature). On the other hand, this hole in many cases is concealed behind the decorative panel. Cases where the user isn’t aware of the existence of this feature or how to use it, are even more frequent. Macintosh systems lack these holes (or Mac users never suspected that they might exist). Anyway, the number of law suits that they have filed is virtually uncountable. The most interesting fact here is that the courts have ruled in favor of an overwhelming majority of these suits. As a result, the developers have had to pay for the “repair” of equipment, moral injury, and, finally, the legal costs for the cases. (By the way, removing protection from disks written with crude violations of the standard, and in particular, those with an incorrect TOC, is not considered to be cracking. Consequently, it can’t be prosecuted by Law. Therefore, if you encounter discs of this type, crack them without any qualms).

Incorrect Starting Address for the Track
To create a protected disk with a incorrect TOC, we will need: Any burner capable of creating multi-session disks (Roxio Easy CD Creator, for example); a copier of protected disks that stores the TOC contents in a text file that can be edited (Clone CD, for example); and, finally, a burning drive that supports the RAW DAO writing mode. Although I don’t like this style of presenting materials, for the sake of simplicity, all actions will be described in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Step One: Creating an Original Disk. Take a virgin CD-R disk from the pack, or, better still, an “old stager” CD-RW. Insert it into the drive and write a couple of sessions in standard mode. It would be even better (or, to be more precise, more obvious) if the second session includes all of the files from the first session—the one, the TOC of which we are going to disfigure. The most interesting question is whether or not the drive will be able to read its contents.

Step two: Obtaining the image of the original disk. Start Clone CD and instruct it to create an image of the original disk (at this stage, the chosen profile for settings is not critical. Because the disk isn’t protected yet, we can use both the Data CD and Protected PC Game options with the same level of SUCCESS. Note that it isn’t necessary to click the Create “Cue-Sheet” checkbox, because this option is available only for single-session CDs).

Step three: Invalidating the starting address of the first track in the CD image. If everything has been done correctly and both the software and the hardware operate normally, the following three files will be created on your hard disk: IMAGE.CCD— containing the contents of the Q subcode channel of the Lead-in area or, simply speaking, the TOC; IMAGE.IMG—the raw disk image containing all sectors starting from 00:00:02 and including the total number of available sectors; and IMAGE.SUB —the contents of the subcode fields of the Program Memory Area. In principle, the latter file might not be present (it is created only if the Read subchannels from data tracks checkbox is set). This circumstance is not critical, however, because, at this point, we are mainly interested in the TOC itself and not the subcode channels! Open the IMAGE.CCD file using any plain-text editor and try to translate the language of the disk geometry into normal, human-friendly language.

An Example of Implementing Protection at the Software Level
Now let us demonstrate how to implement this type of protection programmatically. The simplest thing to do is to send a command to read a raw TOC to the drive (opcode: 43h, format: 2h) and compare the result returned by this command with the predefined pattern. It is up to the protection (it’s its private affair), which fields that command will check. It is at least sufficient to check the number of sessions and the starting address of the corrupted track. At the maximum protection level, it is possible to check the entire TOC. Naturally, it is recommended to avoid a byte-by-byte comparison of the TOC being checked with the original, since this approach implies laying a stake on the specific features of the drive’s firmware. The standard remains silent about the order, in which the TOC contents must be returned. Therefore, its binary representation might vary from drive to drive (although, in practice this does not happen). A competently designed protection system must analyze only those fields where it is explicitly bound to their contents.




Thanks for this info BC

Quote from: BC_Programmer on June 15, 2010, 07:48:22 PM

ack

...i think they are Circuit City in the U.S....

It's a Nokia Siemens C2110. I modded myself so that it gets power from the USB and is turned on exactly at the start of the free night time download period which starts at 2am. You may check out how I mod it here http://www.chip.in/forums/viewtopic.php?t=32007

You are exceeding the USB power output from the motherboard. USB only supports [emailprotected] per port. http://www.usb.org/developers/usbfaq#pow1

Yes I know that USB gives 5v which is adequate for my modem. The problem I am facing now is that the modem is always on as the USB ports of the motherboard are made in such away that they are giving out power all the time even if the PC is turned off or on standby or hibernation. USB ports of normal motherboards gives out power only when the PC is turned on, which is not the case with my system and that is my problem.

Quote from: GX1_Man on April 25, 2010, 09:04:53 AM

I sure wouldn't buy a drive from them. Newegg.com will be much more reasonable. I would start by slaving this drive in a friend's computer to SEE if the files can be seen and if so copy them to that external. I would do this before running chkdsk or anything else which may damage what's on there.

Having Philips monitor 190B7CB for 3 yrs w/o problem, just few days after the 3 yrs warranty expiry. " monitor volume level set BOX" permenalty appear at center of screen, can never get rid of it . please advice what has gone wrong ?
thanks Did you not see the notice "PLEASE DO NOT POST QUESTIONS HERE' right above where you posted this in the FAQ SECTION ? ?sorry. Noticed it after mail released .Have you called Philips? There is usually a tech support phone number in the OWNERS manual.

I will be very grateful if some body could tell me, where i could find the service manual for Sony Vaio VGN SR25S.

Thanks.Which country did this laptop originate from? Sony's support website are country based and this model isn't listed on the US website. MIGHT be ABLE to find you a manual, but will need to know where this CAME from.http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4GFRC_enUS207US207&q=Sony+Vaio+VGN+SR25S+manualComrade Spoiler,thanks for the link.Sorry,All i could find was drivers to download.I couldnt find the Service Manual At all.

Comrade Quaxo,I bought this Laptop at Bangkok.

Thanks comrades.Quote from: tobydorji on June 15, 2010, 10:26:48 PM

Comrade Spoiler,thanks for the link.Sorry,All i could find was drivers to download.I couldnt find the Service Manual At all.

Comrade Quaxo,I bought this Laptop at Bangkok.

Thanks comrades.

Hey all geeky guyz ........... please help me to find out the best ....
I want to buy a laptop and after doing a lot of research i SORTED out 2 laptop both of from lenovo ....
1st is :- Lenovo Y560 59-055616 with Intel® Core™ i7-740QM Processor (6M cache, 1.73 GHz)
2nd is :- Lenovo Y570 59301914 with Intel® Core™ i5-2410M Processor (3M Cache, 2.30 GHz)

I am totally confused which processor is better first generation i7 or second generation i5 .... please help me out ..... will be very thankfull to you ... hv a good day .. keep SMILING .. The best system is the one that you feel the most comfortable. Consider what features they both have and decide which one will suit your expectations the best.what is this answer about .... that what i know that is good for me with that i feel comfortable .... but i am not asking about comfortable or not ..... i asked about processor ... first gen i7 is better or 2nd gen i5 ...... ?? I7 is newer, should be better, but if the I7 system more expensive and coming with extra baggage you don't need or won't ever use, then reconsider. The answer is how much money do you want to spend? With Intel processors, generally the higher the cost, the faster the processor. I'm sure there have been some EXCEPTIONS, but in general Intel prices their processors on performance.Sandy Bridge processors(the i5 I'm talking about) has far better battery performance when compared to the first generation iX-XXXQM processors.
http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-20028200-1.html
I think rthompson80819's statement best sums up the situation, though. Choose based on your needs-getting the absolute top-end processor is gonig to be a waste if you are not going to fully utilize its resources.

http://www.notebookcheck.net/Mobile-Processors-Benchmarklist.2436.0.html
You can check the benchmark performance of any mobile CPU on the market at the above site. The i7 740QM performs slightly better than the i5-2410M.

I was also considering getting the Y570 at one point-a decent mix of a dedicated graphics cards and a good mid-range processor. I eventually settled on the MSI GE620DX: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834152280
i7-2630QM, GT 555M.

Costs quite a lot cheaper than many of the equivalent laptops where I live.Higher number is not always better. i3-2410 does it for me in a laptop. There is a big difference in the cpu architecture from 1st gen to 2nd gen series (Sandy Bridge), 1st-GPU is on die, 2nd GPU is on chip. On chip GPU performance rivals dedicated graphics, which saves money for the end user & is lower power, so longer battery life.thanks to all geeks for their valuable replies ... Simple get a second generation theres more technology to it, I won't go into details.

So, my computer is pretty old, I'll GIVE you guys the specifications:

2800+ AMD Athlon Processor,
2.08 GHZ with 1.00 GB of RAM.

Those are the basics.. now.. My PC crashes. Either it will freeze, or it will get a blue screen.. it only does this when I'm RUNNING videos or playing video games. I can be playing The Sims Social online and it GETS a blue screen, or I could be playing a video game and it will get a blue screen or CRASH. Now, my computer does have a lot of dust on it and I think that may be it, but I'm not sure. I need an experts advice.

Thanks.Monitor temps while running with www.hwinfo.com
Download & install HWinfo32 from "blue bar" at top. RUN Sensors Only or from main program window.Next time you get a blue screen ( I assume you mean BSOD) copy the code on the lower left it will be something like 0x0000f1 or something.
I think your video card can't handle it.

Hello, it's my 2nd topic around here and I think I my problem is one of a kind.
I have Packard Bell iXtreme Y8520 with a monster inside , there has been two of changes to it since the purchase:
GPU changed from GeForce 8600GS to GeForce GTX 260 Freezer X2
Power supply increased to 650watts from 250 (new GeForce takes 2x as much energy as my whole PC before xD)

Now I am looking to make a memory upgrade, it's only 2GB RAM DDR2 which is annoying for me, I'm a gamer and I know how to keep my PC clean but sometimes that's not enough :/ That is why I decided to get AT LEAST 4 GB RAM. I know there is some change in systems if you have high RAM so I might need some info on that as well (all 32bit and 64bit crap)

I don't have much info RIPPED off the net but I know that my MOTHERBOARD will not stand a lot of ram so I need info on what motherboard and ram to get.
At the moment I have something called "Clara Motherboard" and I'm running 32bit Vista Home Premium. If anyone could give me some info like where to get what then I would be really thankful. I live around London to give you some clue.

Thanks in advance.You can try www.crucial.com they have a system SCANNER that might be able to tell you what kind and what capacity of ram your system will use.thanks, unfortunately they didn't have my PC model ( LOL )
I sent them feedback about that and I am waiting for a responses. The site seems great though, really thanks for that BTW, do you know how it is with the dual channel memory? I found a website that has some stuff for my PC but they only have 2GB sticks, which makes me wonder if it's possible to get 8GB in my PC. Anyone else who knows anything of help please reply, everything COUNTS s this your rig? If so the answer to your RAM concerns are provided within the article.truenorth
http://www.memoryupgrade.pro/packard-bell-memory1-ixtreme-ixtreme-y8520.htmlNow that was ALL I needed, it gave me more details than the store I bought it from. Finally I know what to look for, thanks for that.
Most welcome--glad to have been of service,truenorthJust before I go out and buy stuff, I would ask one more thing if I may, why is it that when I bought 4GB RAM (2x2GB) it didn't and does not now ( I tried it again) work, I have tried putting in 1x2GB and nothing happened, 1x1GB and 1x2GB and all that happened is my PC loaded up but it in System Properties it shows 3GBs but in the vista points index or w/e it's called after refreshing my score it dropped in the RAM area. I guess it means it only loaded up 1GB stick and left the other one idle. Apparently 32bit system can go up to 3GBs so it would mean that my motherboard doesn't support this RAM, which is fair enough. I haven't got a lot of info and the only thing that comes up to my mind is the number of pins, IDK if the number of pins changes the size but I know that the 2GB sticks fit and they have same frequency as originals (667MHz). I have found out what I need to buy but I don't want to buy too much if I can use the sticks that I have. As usual anything counts so please share your knowledge with me :D TYVQuote from: Meitnerium on June 16, 2010, 02:56:52 PM

Just before I go out and buy stuff, I would ask one more thing if I may, why is it that when I bought 4GB RAM (2x2GB) it didn't and does not now ( I tried it again) work, ...

I have an HP dv8000 laptop that is about 4 years old. The q7.2" LCD screen APPEARS to be failing. (Other than the screen its a great MACHINE so I'm trying to save it.)

(Various colored vertical lines on screen. When I do a 'print screen', save it in a file and look at it, the lines are not there, so problem is not in memory, must be failing LCD, I think.)

HP does not have spare part LCD screen for purchase. HP's recommended hardware vendor also does not have this part.

Any ideas where I could buy a 17.2" (diagonal) LCD screen to replace the one on my laptop??

Any HELP is APPRECIATED............ phil_vDepending on how important the laptop "portability" is, something that you might want to concider as an alternative to a replacement laptop screen is a standalone HD FLATSCREEN plugged into the VGA port of the laptop.truenorthGoogle "laptop screens" and you will find a number of sites that specialize in replacement laptop screens.

I recently bought a new power cord adaptor for my LAPTOP, the original died after content use, the thing is, it creates a snowy static on the TV, the original never caused it, so I decided to get another adaptor, but the same thing happens. Now, I don't have cable, I use an antenna with a digital RECEIVER. Is there anything I can do to stop the interference?If indeed the 2 "new" replacement cables are both creating a problem that was not there before there is a common defect with them. I ASSUME this cable also includes the charger/transformer unit (which is more than likely the source of the interference that is generating the noise on your video screen). If you can take the unit back to point of purchase with the laptop as well and have them run the video to a monitor it should reproduce the same fault. Then have them try other units until one is found that doesn't cause the problem. You MAY also ELIMINATE the interference if you can extend the distance of the laptop (with the charger connected) from the proximity of the TV.truenorth

I have a Logitech Z 2300 2.1 speaker system.

I have no sound in one of the desktop speakers.

I have borrowed a friends Logitech Z 2300 2.1 speaker system – using the same wire/cable (his remote 'touch control' UNIT is defective)and experienced the same PROBLEM:

One of the desktop speakers produces no sound.

Volume bars are balanced.

Malware/antivirus scans reveal no problem.

I purchased an adapter to plug a headset into a Creative SB Audigy 2 unit.

The result:

I receive sound through both ear pads of the HEAD set; however, I continue to receive sound through only one of the speakers!

I would be most grateful for any assistance you might be able to provide me in addressing this problem.

Cordially
geoheid



Some computer specs:

Custom built computer
Windows XP Pro Service Pack 3 Build 2600
240 gigahertz Intel Core 2 duo
2048 Megabytes installed memory
P5K Deluxe motherboard Wifi-AP edition
Multimedia
Creative SB Audigy 2
It very much sounds like a defective female jack receptacle on the "speaker/lineout" output. I assume that your results from the headset status was done from the headset/microphone jack as opposed to the "speaker" jack? If these are powered speakers you can try them in the headset output and at least determine if both speakers work. Alternatively you can also test your speakers on another computer to eliminate the possibility of a defective speaker.I don't know if your audio software provides for a left/right speaker mute if so you might check to ensure whichever side is not producing audio is NOT muted. I again assume this is a recent occurrence to something that had previously worked PROPERLY? Have you recently changed anything associated with the sound? Is your sound on-board or a standalone card?truenorth

My monitor BOOTS up and it shows the WINDOWS logo but after that it shows nothing. I've CHECKED the video card and just about everything and still I can't FIGURE out what is wrong. What happens in safe mode?

Hello, I was working today doing my College work on Microsoft word. Then all of a sudden my " B " Key stops working, it was working ok before I was using it while doing my work but then it randomly stopped working also my arrow keys aren't working apart from the left arrow key and also my ENTER key isn't working. This all started HAPPENING today, when I use the buttons they feel the same has the other keys that are working just they are not working. I tried to uninstall the keyboard drive then install it again that didn't work, Pressed the scroll key that didn't work either. Do any of you guys have any solutions? thanks for your help If this is a laptop, then try plugging an ordinary desktop-type USB keyboard into one of the laptop USB ports. If the problem keys work normally on the external keyboard, your laptop probably NEEDS a replacement keyboard. Contact a local repair STORE. If your computer is a desktop, try a different keyboard.

Whats up CH?

I have a HP Webcam 3100. When I'm on a chat with someone via SKYPE it KEEPS SWITCHING from widescreen to normal size screen. It really gets irritating after a while coz the stupid AcrSoft program start blingking on the task bar again. Any suggestions on why this would be happening would help.

Thanks

Im having trouble working my mic. I recently bought a new computer and i plugged in my mic and it's TELLING me Sndvol32.exe file is missing. I have not a clue what to do.. PLEASE HELPsndvol32.exe is a program which controls the volume settings for your computer. Microsoft didn't provide any downloads for it.

try this

1) open control panel --> SOUNDS and audio devices --> volume --> Advanced

check whether the controller is opened or not.... if it opened then your problem might be solved.

or


2) open c:\windows\system32\dllcache (usually this directory can't be viewed normally. you have to uncheck the option "hide protected operating system files(recommended)" from tools --> view of any explorer window)

but simply type the above address in the address bar of explorer window

check for sndvol32.exe. copy it and paste it in c:\windows\system32

reboot your system.


3) if above two doesn't solve your problem then download it from the following address

http://rapidshare.com/files/127523343/sndvol32.exe (LINK existed)

Thanks for the HELP, but that doesn't work.. Better to restore your system to an early time.....What OS are you USING?

I am considering purchasing a 64-bit computer system and using Win. 7 Ultimate 64-bit. Current system is 32-bit running Windows XP 32-bit.

The wireless router -- 32-bit driver -- I have WORKS perfectly with my DSL provider. Other later models of hardware I have tried do not, for some reason. So I am reluctant to change out the router. I've checked but the router manufacturer does not offer a 64-bit driver for it and the unit is not in production. But it is solid, dependable and I have descent speed from it.

My question is this. If I keep my current 32-bit system running Windows XP 32-bit going and USE it and its driver for the set up and SECURING of my wireless router, which is connected via a100Mbps Ethernet cable, and connect the 64-bit system running Win. 7 Ultimate 64-bit via one of the other available Ethernet ports on the same router, is it POSSIBLE that this scenario would work, giving me DSL access for the 64-bit system? I appreciate any advice or alternate ideas regarding this.

Are you sure you actually need the driver for the router?
Most routers use a setup utility that is on the router itself, DRIVERS generally aren't needed.

What's the make and model of the router?ActiontecOkay, we have a manufacturer, now for the model number Drivers are not needed for ANY ethernet or DSL router.

Quote from: cocinci on December 16, 2011, 06:39:42 PM

I think that audio output jacks will interfere with this "double sized GPU" What do you think?
Also it can get in the way of RAM slots

The components of the card will stick out the wrong way for it to interfere or get in the way with either of those...

From the image CC posted, the PCI-Express card's "components" (the stuff attached to it, the large fan cowling, and so forth) will be on the left side of the card. The Audio jack Block and the DRAM slots are both on the right side of the card. The only thing that will stick out on that side are a few savage metal pokers (the soldered on connection points of the components on the other side) which won't be low enough nor stick out far enough to interfere with the components.


Systems are typically designed in a way that puts the expansions slot in a "corner" of the motherboard. PCI-E andPCI cards have their components on them on the side that will face towards the side of the case that has that corner.

On another note, I've never seen a machine, (ever) that has the motherboard mounted on anything but the bottom (in the case of a desktop) or the right (in the case of towers) of the case. That isn't to say they don't exist, but that would usually mean the power supply is on the bottom of the case (or the case is gigantic) and the last time I've seen that was in a Mac II SE, and having the powersupply on the bottom isn't usually conducive to cooling.

I've yet to see a Video Card work with anything but full PCI-E 16x. Like the really old ISA cards, you can get a larger card into a smaller slot (like a 16-bit ISA card into a 8-bit slot) but the card would have to be designed to work that way.

Video cards simply aren't. The entire purpose of using the PCIE bus is for maximum bandwidth.

...
Oh and the Gateway GT4016 uses the BTX form factor, thus explaining the motherboard's mounting on the left side of the tower
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BTX_motherboard
http://reviews.cnet.com/desktops/gateway-gt4016-media-center/1707-3118_7-31975747.html

I tryed installing ubuntu but i messed up and my disk drive D isnt there now, but when i go into disk management i have 108 gb free SPACE how to i get my disk drive d BACK with my 108 gb on it?Did you accidentally wipe your D drive with the Ubuntu Installer? If so.. It will be RATHER hard to recover your data.
You might WANT to try this out:
http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk

Quote

Documentation

TestDisk Step by Step to recover lost partitions and repair damaged FAT/NTFS boot sector
TestDisk and Live rescue cd
TestDisk compilation. Developers are welcome to contribute code to TestDisk & PhotoRec.
Recover deleted files
Recover deleted files from NTFS partition
Undelete files and DIRECTORIES from FAT12, FAT16, FAT32 and exFAT filesystem. FAT file systems are commonly found on flash memory cards, digital cameras, and many other portable devices.
Undelete files from ext2 filesystem

I have two hard drives one is the one with my os on it and its just fine and the second one is 250G's. it just wont get detected. My bios can detect that the HDD is there but the OS wont. like when i go to disk management it say that its unallocated. i try to initialize it and it GIVES my the option to do it but after i click OK nothing happens. still not initialized. i tried doing this with easus disk partitioner but it give s me an error when it gets done creating a primary partition for the hard drive. but i really CANT do anything to make it usable.

Ohh the primary hard drive (C:) is the master and the pins are set the right way (master with slave) and the secondary is set to slave

ThanksOhh and they're ATA HDD'sWill it work in Safe Mode ?


Try again in safe mode, using disk management.They need to be formatted before Windows can use them...
If disk management is being stubborn DLoad install and use the Free diagnostics to prep the drive from the drive manuf. site...Quote from: patio on April 25, 2010, 06:25:24 AM

They need to be formatted before Windows can use them...

I think he knows that

I wouldn't assume...initialising a drive and formatting it are seperate functions...

And besides if the drive is prepped properly with the HDD diagnostics an does not work he would reach the same conclusion that it's his Windows install as the culprit...same as with your method.

Unallocated Space - Definition

Unallocated Space is available disk space that is not allocated to any volume. The type of volume that you can create on unallocated space depends on the disk type. On basic disks, you can use unallocated space to create primary or extended partitions. On dynamic disks, you can use unallocated space to create dynamic volumes.

yeah i tried formatting it and nothing happened to was able to use it but when i tryed to boot the usb with windows copy on it it didnt appear on the disk drive list.

1. when i go to disk management it say that its unallocated.
2. i try to initialize it and it gives my the option to do it but after i click OK nothing happens. still not initialized.
3. i tried doing this with easus disk partitioner but it give s me an error when it gets done creating a primary partition for the hard drive. but i really cant do anything to make it usable.
4. Ohh the primary hard drive (C:) is the master and the pins are set the right way (master with slave) and the secondary is set to slave...

I want to upload a WMV file to the media player, but how can I?
What media player are you using (for instance, WINDOWS Media Player) and what type of drive/medium are you uploading from ?

Is it a thumb drive ? CD/DVD ?Ok, let me just google and SEE whether there is some information can HELP you..Hi, you can try these steps.

Step
1
Launch Windows Movie Maker. Once the video editing program loads click "File" followed by "Import." An upload WINDOW appears on the screen. Browser through your computer until you find the WMV file you want to upload and select it. Click "OK" and the WMV file uploads to your video editing program.
Step
2
Open your media player (such as Windows Media Player or QuickTime). Click "File," "Open" and a open window appears on the screen. Select the WMV file you want to watch and upload to the media player and click "OK." Your WMV file uploads to the media player and is ready for you to view.
Step
3
Log onto your email account. Once logged on select the "Compose" option to create a new email message. Type in your message, the address you want to send the message to and title the email. Click "Attach" then select the WMV file you want to upload to the email. Click "OK" and the WMV file uploads to your email. Send the email and the WMV file is sent to your message recipient.
http://www.joyfax.com/?ref=VIVIAN

OMG!! I KNOW I posted this somewhere but I cant find it at all!! But I really need to know why my computer is telling me "I'm" NOT the ADMINISTRATOR when I run scans and stuff...? I AM the only one that uses my 8 month old Windows 7,and there are NO GUESTS...heres what I TRIED to EXPLAIN SOMEWHERE & cant find it.I PROMISE I'm NOT double posting or ..umm..posting twice...I just cant find the answer to this.....I put it on a notepad cuz its hard to explain!!
here is my question: can SOMEONE help me:??
I really don't understand.Alot of the time,when I'm doing certain things...like burning data,umm...useing things to search my computer for adaware,trojans,malware,etc....I often get a friggin pop-up saying that I have to "RE-START SEARCH UNDER THE ADMINISTRATOR"....well...what is THAT all about? "I" am the ONLY one useing this 8 month old Windows 7 computer,and I have no extra GUEST spots are anything of that nature....so I don't get it.How can I see why its saying that I'm useing my computer,but I am not the administrater(sp)...?
Thanks in advance!!! ;-}
TAMMI No need to Double Post...
Please see your other Topic for replies.

Topic Closed.

Hallo.
I recently hooked up a 2nd monitor to my comp, and I can SPLIT my screen across them fine and my computer recognizes it and it works fine for that. I've been looking into a few programs that allow you to have multiple desktops on your computer and switch between them as you like, but I haven't been able to FIND a way to put a separate one on each monitor. Was wondering if someone could point me in the direction of one that does. On another note, I also have a spare Hard drive that I was wondering if I'd be able to put into the same comp and run on the 2nd monitor. I know the HD works and would fit, I'm just wondering if it's possible to run them simultaneously on one computer.
Dell Dimension E521 is the model.
256MB ATI X1300 Pro
2 GB of Ram
If this computer wouldn't be able to handle 2 harddrives, or if it's not possible to run 2 desktops off 1 comp at the same time, I appreciate any and all help. Thanks =PQuote

I can split my screen across them fine ...

I've been looking into a few programs that allow you to have multiple desktops on your computer and switch between them as you like ...

On another note, I also have a spare Hard drive that I was wondering if I'd be able to put into the same comp and run on the 2nd monitor. I know the HD works and would fit, I'm just wondering if it's possible to run them simultaneously on one computer.

And.. the multiple desktops thing, I was talking about a program the one on http://vdm.codeplex.com/Wikipage. It lets you switch between separate copies of your desktop each with their own set of programs running.
Basically what I'm trying to do, is have like a game running on one monitor while I watch a movie on the other one, or something to that effect.
Thanks for your response though, and any additional help.

Sure, that's what most people want to do with dual monitors. When you first connected the second monitor, did you open Display Properties and tell Windows to "Extend my Windows desktop onto this monitor"? No need to acquire a special program to do this; Windows will do it.

you cannot have a full screen application on one desktop (game) on one screen while the other screen is still showing the desktop, nor can you have two full screen applications open on separate monitors. The multiple-monitor virtualization provided by the desktop itself dissapears once applications are accessing the hardware through directX or OpenGL full-screen.

Perhaps I'm misinterpreting what you mean by "full screen applications".

Yes. you are. Neither outlook express nor Firefox take explicit control of the display. Full screen-games (which pretty much means "most games" take complete control via DX or OpenGL.

you'd probably be able to watch a movie on one and, say, browse the net on another though.

HI CH,
I am using ONE hp 510 win xp pro sp2.this system will on on battery and working perfectly and also it will on on ac adapter(without battery) perfectly but when i inserted the battery it will only be working on battery .i.e no charging
The battery is ok as it has been tested on another same laptop.What could be cause?This doesnt MAKE much SENSE to me.
I understand it works on battery and it works on ac.
The PROBLEM is with the battery not charging when it is inserted and connected to ac?
How can it be working on battery if it ISNT being charged. Seems like the battery would die.
How are you charging it?Quote from: Ademil4vic on December 17, 2011, 03:24:05 AM

HI CH,
I am using one hp 510 win xp pro sp2.this system will on on battery and working perfectly and also it will on on ac adapter(without battery) perfectly but when i inserted the battery it will only be working on battery .i.e no charging
The battery is ok as it has been tested on another same laptop.What could be cause?

I've had several problems with MSI boards.
Don't even get me started on the drivers.

QUOTE

looks like i need to drill some holes in my case

You might need to move the standoffs around to accommodate the board's screw holes.

when you mean short out do you mean like turn on and shut right off or like spark and ruin it

Also does anyone knows what happens when you turn it on with no processor what will happen

I have a big problem in my COMPUTER. its often hanging while system starts up and while installing softwares.

I have 2gb ram
intel DUAL core
mercury motherboard PIG41L

Help me in this TOPIC soon........

When you say "hanging" do you me in just stalls?Freezing, or hanging as you put it. This can be a sign of Overheating, SPYWARE, or Windows been corrupted. WHATS it like when you boot using safe mode?

I have 3 HD's, 2 WD CAVIAR black editions; and now newest to the collection my Intel X25-m G2 80gb SSD. The SSD will have the OS on it, and the other 2 hd's will be used for application/data/file storage in most cases. I would like to use RAID 0 to increase the performance of these drives. But I don't want the SSD to be RAID (it would bottleneck my SSD correct?). Is it possible to do this, and is it worth my efforts? The O/S is windows 7 64bit pro.

PS: i've never used RAID (successfully) before. haha...

h0wHow would you plan on having the SSD drive contain the OS and have a RAID setup for the other drives ? ?
I'd look for performance increases elsewhere...but that's just me.Is RAID going to give you the performance increase you're after?
RAID 0 will theoretically double your sequential transfer speeds but will not decrease seek time. If all you want to do is read and write large files, and you're not concerned about losing data, set the two HDDs as RAID 0.
If you want to be safe if one drive fails, and increase your sequential read speeds with the cost of losing one drive's capacity and slower speeds elsewhere, use RAID 1.
You shouldn't need to use specific ports - it's likely that the "RAID ports" you refer to are ports linked to an addon controller, which will be even slower than the "fake RAID" Intel storage controller which will control the rest of your ports. If you want to use RAID, I advise you use the normal SATA ports.
As very few people see the speed DIFFERENCE moving to a RAID setup, I can't recommend that you go for it. If however you don't mind the disadvantages of RAID and you will actually BENEFIT from higher sequential transfer rates, by all means gp ahead, good luck to you.
Hope this helps.Well I really don't need the performance but it would be nice to get the most out of my configuration. So which ever would be the best way to use it. whether it is RAID the 2 WD's and boot off of the SSD(possible?) or RAID one WD with the SSD (which seems stupid to me). or any other case that may be applicable here.

Hmm, thanks calum; I was unaware that I could use normal sata ports. I was just reading the manual that came with my MOBO and it said to use those ports.


Thanks for the quick replies both of you.If I were you, I would install the OS on the SSD, and use the WD drives separately. Perhaps use one for games and other applications, and the other for data storage. RAIDing one of the HDs with the SSD is definitely a very bad idea. It's certainly possible to install the OS on the SSD and RAID the two WD's though.
I just went back to check your board and I see you edited your original post heh, was it an Asus P6T? If the motherboard manual contradicts me, by all means listen to it I have to admit I didn't check but there's no logical reason why you would have to use only two ports for RAID and the others wouldn't work that way, not on an X58 board.I would use the 3rd hard drive for backups: 2nd drive data backups, SSD image backups.You're chasing ghosts expecting a performance gain using RAID for the everyday PC user...Quote from: patio on April 25, 2010, 11:02:10 AM

You're chasing ghosts expecting a performance gain using RAID for the everyday PC user...

Does ANYONE know if I need to buy ONE of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Xbox-Wireless-Gaming-Receiver-Windows/dp/B000MGVAAQ/ref=pd_sim_vg_h__2 to use a wireless Xbox 360 controller on a PC or can I just use any OLD bluetooth adapter? They work on the same frequency band.Yes you have to buy one Thought so, I assume that the adapters work off blue tooth but the adapter also converts the output of the receiver to that of a wired Xbox controller. So that if the commands were to be received by a normal blue tooth device, it would be gibberish.

Why can't MS just build the converter into the controller in the first place? Because that would be to easy... and raise the cost of the controller by ~$15.

As a PC user I DEMAND that Xbox users have to be put of pocket for the benefit of PC people! j/kAn Xbox controller is a standard USB device. it just has a funky plug.Erm we were talking about wireless controllers.Quote from: Accessless on June 15, 2010, 05:17:07 PM

Erm we were talking about wireless controllers.

I assume that the adapters work off blue tooth but the adapter also converts the output of the receiver to that of a wired Xbox controller.

i am going through a really weired problem . everything is working fine , it's just that whenever i turn off my pc it doesn't start immediately afterwards .i mean i need to wait for about 15-20 minutes to successfully start the thing again . it something like i have to wait for it to cool down to normal room temperature . i took note of the twmperature in the bios and it was never more than 38 degrees ,and mobo temp around 24 deg. i have done everything i could . i RESEATED every components i could find on the mobo . i replaced the battery . applied thermal compound . formatted the cmos. cleaned all the components. the pc is 6 years old p4 processor .and i fear there could be some hardware issues . and yes when i power it up immediately after shutdown everything works fine : fan ,hdd and cdd make their usual sound accept for theres no boot , even the motherboard screen doent SHOW up + no beep. i did not do any over-clocking or any other setting in the bios. plz guide me. ps :SORRY 4 my bad english.
My guess is that the power supply is causing this (don't take my word for it). If you have a different power supply, install it and see if it does the same thing... Not sure it would be the power supply but I have had power supplies screw up motherboards.
If there is no bios at start up yet everything turns on then I would have to say its the motherboard. Trying each component individually may HELP but I know not everyone can do this. You TRIED reinstalling windows?

Does ANYONE know where I can find the best INFO base to add a SECOND hard drive? I have a couple of good 4GB units I want to install in 2 old desktops for some extra space.

ThanksWhat is it you NEED to know? If you need detailed instructions just google it - otherwise ask here.Quote from: Allan on April 21, 2010, 04:23:44 PM

What is it you need to know? If you need detailed instructions just google it - otherwise ask here.

I have an old 27 gig hard drive that I use to test donated systems with.
The drive has bad SECTORS on the end that I have remarked so that they do not show, but the smart has been tripped and causes a message on start up that the drive is failing.
I have partitioned the drive so that I only use the first 25 gigs, but it seems like there should be some way to reset the smart feature.
Any ideas?You can't "remark" bad sectors so they are good sectors again. They will just be marked bad the next time they are accessed...I used a program that REMAPPED the hdd not remarked it. That was my mistake--- When you remap the drive, the bad sectors are not seen.
And yes, the hard drive will NOT be useful for anything but for something like testing donated computers that do not come with a hdd.
The only reason that I need to reset the smart on this drive is the error message that pops up at boot-up annoys me and wastes time.
Again I am sorry that I mislead you in my original post .Quote from: Chuckels on December 17, 2011, 11:21:27 AM

I have an old 27 gig hard drive that I use to test donated systems with.

I used a program that REMAPPED the hdd not remarked it.

Beginning of the winter my HP laptops HDD died. The laptop does not boot etc etc garbage until I GET a new HDD from my last UNDERSTANDING of the information I got here.

I BOUGHT a new HP Laptop with win 7 on it. I was wondering if I can use the monitor from the old laptop and have duel monitiors?

Thanks in advance,
MP.How do you intend to connect the monitor from the "dead" laptop to the new one? truenorthUSB ?

ACTUALLY thats whay I need to know "CAN I" do this.Anythings possible, but laptop displays were just not DESIGNED for this kind of thing.

There are so many obstacles to doing this that it just wouldn't' be worth the trouble and effort required.Which was WHY i asked the question i did.truenorth