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Sorry guys, and answer pdg as l've go another session going to order a hdd.
Ok. l've got a really OLD drive that is on its last legs and needs replacing.
It's a Western Digital 3.5 enhanced IDE. And that is all l knowDo l get PATA or SATA (l'm assuming pata)
ThanksOk sorry guys.
6 hits, and not even ONE reply. Anyway, the hdd offer has now gone.
A reply WOULD STILL be appreciated
IDE, ATA, & PATA are all the same.

Every time I start up the laptop I get the Gateway loading screen and then after the blue bar at the bottom loads up I get a black screen. Completely black and nothing loads from there. I put in the system restore disc and it still didn't load. I tried pressing F10 when the Gateway screen came up and I selected CD/DVD and it still followed with a black screen. I pressed F2 on the start up and CHANGED the bootup list so it would boot the CD/DVD first and I still got a black screen. BTW, I can feel the disc spinning at times but absolutely nothing COMES up.

Anyone know what the problem is?

More information on the laptop

The laptop is a Gateway.

Operating System: Windows XP SP3

Model #: MX8710

http://support.gateway.com/s/Mobile/Q106/SonicC/2905895Rsp2.shtml

That link is basically everything on the laptop. I made no changes to it. I didn't change harddrives or anything. The only thing that has been changed was the battery.

I would appreciate any help.


Restore Disc? What exactly is it/what does it say on it? It's probably used to restore the computer to first-boot settings. (Deleting all your files and programs).

Do you have the Windows XP CD?

When did this start?

What did you do before the problem? (downloads/installs/hardware changes/ect....)

Have you tried Safe Mode?Sorry for the delay.

"Restore Disc? What exactly is it/what does it say on it? It's probably used to restore the computer to first-boot settings. (Deleting all your files and programs)."

Yeah, it's the operating system disc used to re-install the operating system.


"Do you have the Windows XP CD?"

Is that different from the operating system disc? The one that was included with the PC?

"When did this start?"

This started around the end of December.

"What did you do before the problem? (downloads/installs/hardware changes/ect....)"

No hardware or installs were made to the PC. It usually had a hard time booting up and It would leave me hanging for awhile. Now it won't even boot up to Windows XP all.

"Have you tried Safe Mode?"

For some odd REASON it won't let me access it. I tapped F8 and held it down and I didn't get a menu that allowed me to boot it into safe mode. The only thing I got was a black screen after Gateway screen loaded. Make sure you have the Windows CD (it should have MICROSOFT written in hologram all over the disc).

Follow these instructions to perform a Repair Install:
http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/XPrepairinstall.htm
(None of your files will be lost)I am having the exact same problem with the exact same model of Gateway laptop. Bios will boot, but after that- it's just a black screen. F8 delivers a black screen as WELL.
I've tried booting the XP CD to run repairs, but I still get the black screen, even after changing boot order in BIOS. I've also tried booting Ubuntu from a disk, but that produces the same results. (I've verified that my XP and Ubuntu CDs are working just fine in another computer.)
Does anyone have any ideas?

If it helps to diagnose, I got this laptop from a co-worker who said that she was watching a DVD one day, when all of a sudden the screen went black and the computer shut down. We haven't been able to get it to boot past BIOS since, although we were able to remove the hard drive and mount it on another machine to RETRIEVE her files.

so i have this kind of mother boardhttp://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&lc=en&docname=c00864946#N187 and i was wonderin if i can put this kind of processor in it http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Pentium-640-SL7Z8-3-2Ghz/dp/B000Z47CPW/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1323637572&sr=1-1-spell and then i wanna know if i could also put this kind of graphics card in it http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B005LJWISW/ref=nosim/7240466-rg2304-00-20?s=merchant&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER and i have a hp w1907 wide lcd monitor.....will this work for me?The SITE you posted for the MOTHERBOARD has a fair bit of information regarding the specs and upgrade compatibility on it. Have you checked to see if your hardware is listed on it?
ya i have but i dont know some things... right now the mother board has a intel graphics chip that is intigrated so i wanted to know if i could put a nividia graphics card in it in the pci express x16 slot... but the graphics card i am looking into to but is a pci express 2.0 x16 slot.. does the 2.0 madder?The motherboard has a PCI x16 slot, so I would say it would work, as long your PSU is large enough. How many watts is your current PSU?is says 250w on the stickerThen you will want a new PSU. I would recommend something around 700W or above.ok thanks so for the processor then would the pentium 4 work then because idk if that proccessor in the link is a 6x1 series or not...It is a socket 775. I would check the Intel site for more information though.ok thanks for all of ur helpNo problem, if you have any other questions/problems just let us know.ok i have another question the graphics card is a 64 bit but i have windows vista home premuim 32bit will the graphic card still work and will the processor still work? or will i need to go out and buy windows 7 64bit?ok i have another question the graphics card is a 64 bit but i have windows vista home premuim 32bit will the graphic card still work and will the processor still work? or will i need to go out and buy windows 7 64bit? Quote from: AT25 on DECEMBER 13, 2011, 06:10:16 PM

...
1. i have another question the graphics card is a 64 bit but i have windows vista home premuim 32bit will the graphic card still work
2. and will the processor still work?
3. or will i need to go out and buy windows 7 64bit?

i've spent hours trying to reset my netbooks bios (i misplaced my password somewhere in my head or have totally lost it)
searched online and came across this link but it doesn't work for my laptop.

http://macles.blogspot.com/2008/08/acer-aspire-one-bios-recovery.html

now my netbook doen't have warranty anymore UNFORTUNATELY
i've also tried FLASHING bios from Windows 7, with no luck... i'm not sure if FLASHING is suppose to clear BIOS as well or just UPDATE it

i've gone as far as dismantling the netbook and to my dismay the CMOS battery is soldered (attached) to the board which means i have to break the solder and re-solder it BACK (again unfortunately i have zero soldering experience and have no intentions on trying)
i also couldn't find any information or manual on the Mainboard for the Aspire One so i couldn't even find where the likely SPOTS for short-circuiting and cold-reseting the BIOS

i also disabled alternative booting options in BIOS
please help...This sometimes works... short the 3V cmos battery with a paperclip or short section of wire for about 2 seconds and then it may clear. You will bring the CMOS reference voltage to 0 and it wont be on long enough to COOK and drain CMOS battery! The 2 seconds should be long enough to reset it to default!CMOS battery on laptops does not control the BIOS password function...this is by design.

The normal option is to take it to an authorised service center...be prepared to show proof of ownership.

I'm looking to get a good laptop for college, but I'm wondering would it be easier/cheaper to build one? How feasible is it, getting parts etc? I'm not looking to spend too much more than €350/$500/£320.

Thanks
The i3, i5, i7 barebones laptops with discrete, mid-end graphics (Radeon HD 5730, GTX 460, etc) from MSI all run WAY over $500 ($725ish), so that is clearly too expensive once the cost of the processor is put in. You can get one with lousy Intel integrated graphics which run about $337, though. As for Asus barebones, they all run on the old Centrino platform, and I can't even find any PRICE quotings... Building your laptop would definitely be more expensive.


http://www.amazon.com/Hewlett-Packard-350-Discrete-Class-Definition/dp/B004IN85QQ
This looks good.Right, thanks.

I'm not entirely sure yet if I'll need to be running any engineering apps or other heavy duty programs, so I'll have to wait for a few weeks. I might need to "up" my budget when it comes around. I mainly wanted to know just how hard/easy it is to build a laptop, because I can't find any sites that sell components!You basically... can't build a laptop because there are no "one size fits all" components for laptops-motherboards, heatsinks, fans, display connectors, graphics cards layouts, to name a few vary from one laptop to another. The closest you can get to "building" a laptop probably is getting spare parts for one particular laptop model and fixing them all together, in which case it would be probably be cheaper to just buy a new laptop.


As for putting the parts together, its easier than building a desktop-CPU socket, put the heatsink and fan on top, put the RAM in the RAM socket, the power supply is integrated, the GPU is integrated, the display has a connector that just plugs into the motherboard, and if two ports look the same, just look at the wire length and you'll know which wire goes into which port. Only there are A LOT of screws (~60 screws for HP Probook 4510s, ~100 screws for Sony S Series laptops (VPCSB190X), and you need various torx bits in most cases (I just use an extremely tiny hexagonal wrench that I got from a bicycle store or a flat edge screwdriver )


Quote from: kpac on August 19, 2011, 06:40:02 AM

I mainly wanted to know just how hard/easy it is to build a laptop, because I can't find any sites that sell components!

I'm looking to get a good laptop for college, but I'm wondering would it be easier/cheaper to build one? How feasible is it, getting parts etc? I'm not looking to spend too much more than €350/$500/£320....

you may have had titled it wrongly. its kinda hard.
If you're pertaining to desktop then, core i7 system is good.

If you haven't already done so you might want to contact the college (or student union of the college) to see if they have any arrangements with either computer manufacturers or suppliers for student discounts. At the same time trying to get as clear as possible definition as to what you will be needing from a computer over the course of your studies will help you to purchase to include what will be needed. truenorth

It's not possible to build a laptop. Everything is proprietary, i.e. case, keyboard, motherboard, screen, battery. Where would you even get all the parts?
I recently bought this one: http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/us/en/sm/WF06b/321957-321957-64295-3929941-3955552-5060880-5060884-5081511.html

If you do decide the one CC notes is for you here is a bit cheaper price= http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RCUIJU/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=unbiasedreview-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=B004RCUIJU
truenorth
P.S. The review on it states it's only negative aspects are it's weight (9 pounds) and it's size (needs a large case) if you desire to have it in a case.

Added an additional 4GB RAM, not sure if necessary, but only cost $26.

Err, no. As I said, my budget is about $500 - not triple it!
Yes, that's good idea. Thanks. I should be getting an information pack this coming week so I'll know more then.
Never realised, to be honest. That is a good laptop for the price, and Amazon.com does seem to be cheaper. After checking with Amazon.co.uk however it appears that they are charging around £480 for it - which is about $800, and that's a bit too much. What's the battery life like?
Not sure what's the story with the weight, the official listing is 5.2 lbs.
So you've 8GB in a laptop?

...two USB3.0 ports on it,...

No, what kind of price range are they?

EDIT: I see they're actually no more expensive than regular external HDDs...

You went over your budget?

This looks like it could be yours: HP Pavilion dv6-6156ea
Data Sheet: http://h20195.www2.hp.com/v2/GetPDF.aspx/c02855700.pdf

Dear Computer Experts,
My PC has Windows 7, an Intel Core 2 DUO Cpu E7200 @2.53 GHz and 2 gb ram. according to dxdiag, my directX Version is dx11. My current video card is NVidia Ge Force 8400gs.basically, i just wanted to know if there were any good graphic cards for me so that i could upgrade my PC and also games in the future like Just Cause 2, batman arkham city, call of duty mw3, assassins creed revelations and so on.
please help me!That's a very nice Christmas Wish List. *drool*What is your current motherboard? Also, how much money are you actually willing to spend on the upgrade?

Sometimes, it would be better to buy a brand new computer, rather than spending a lot of money and efforts on upgrading that old computer.Donate the old PC. Tax write off. That is not a horribly bad Video Card. I would look at upgradng your ram as much as you can. The Duo Core is a little behind the times but most cpu's are a few months after they are released.If you are looking to PLAY games.... the 8400gs is at the bottom of the line.


Consider one of these cards:

from http://www.videocardbenchmark.net


You can compare the specs of any graphics card on the market at http://www.hwcompare.comUmm not more than Rs.10,000. I have an ASUS P5GC-MX/1333 Motherboard. I don't want the best
videocard in TOWN, just the best videocard for my specs. And gaming is right. I am considering Radeon HD 6450.
Will my computer be able to handle that? Can I play all the latest games with that? Please tell meThe HD 6450 is an entry level card that will not perform well in many new games at even medium resolutions:
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2385821,00.asp
You might as well go with a GT 240 GDDR5 version, GT 430 GDDR5 version(only made by Gainward and Palit) or a HD 5570. If you are willing to spend a little more you might want to GET the GT 440 or a HD 5670.For those games you want to play, you are definately going to want more RAM and a better Graphics Card. I would look into the system requirements/recommendations for the games and see if you can hold out until you can afford the right parts. If you have to wait a month or two longer - it would not be as bad as spending all your moeny now on something you wouldn't be happy with, only to have to save up all the longer until you can get something you are happy with. Other good news - the longer you save up, the lower prices wll be.is the Nvidia GTX 480 worth the money? And how much power does it need to be happy?

No. If you look at my first post with the picture you'll see that you would be more JUSTIFIED in getting the GTX 560Ti.

It consumes 450W on full load. nVidia recommends having at least a 600W PSU for this beast.
http://www.nvidia.com/object/product_geforce_gtx_480_us.html

OK, so this is a really, really "du-oh" kind of question. I handed off to my ex- a Dell Latitude D800 laptop (which I received for nothing from a family member). Both of us are too used to using a mouse when we're messing about with a computer, and both of our experiences with laptops are zilch. There doesn't seen to be what I would recognize as a socket for a mouse on the laptop. So how does ONE go about installing such?
Thank you all in advance.Does the mouse have a PS2 or USB connector (PS2 is round with pins, USB is flat)? The laptop SHOULD have both, but it if doesn't, just get either a usb to ps2 adapter or a ps2 to usb adapter, depending on which you need.

And what is the make and model of the laptop (I'd like to look up the specs)?Quote from: StickyR on June 22, 2010, 07:26:25 AM

There doesn't seen to be what I would recognize as a socket for a mouse on the laptop. So how does one go about installing such?

There are adapters you can get.

most new laptops don't come with the old round looking connectors anymore... sorry if i dont know what they're called..

First, make sure your computer is fully booted and try again. If that doesn't WORK, then try holding the open button. If that doesn't work, go to (My) Computer, right click on the drive and CHOOSE Eject. If that still doesn't work, look for a tiny hole under the drive tray. If there is one, take a paperclip, FOLD it over, and push it (hard) into that hole. The tray will open. If there's no hole... you're out of luck. Maybe INSTALL new drivers.Fleexy, "What if" this were a question instead of what appears to be an answer to some UNKNOWN post "that is the question" truenorthThis was originally posted in the FAQ section and i moved it...
FAQ's should be submitted for proposal...not just posted.

patio.Quote from: truenorth on June 26, 2010, 11:39:17 AM

Fleexy, "What if" this were a question instead of what appears to be an answer to some unknown post "that is the question" truenorth

Okay to explain this issue in detail I attempted to resize partition D and add the size to Partition C, (this HD was orginally 1.5TB) anyway after about 5 times of failed attempts i noticed somthing strange. the space that was taken from Partition D is like gone or not readable in the "Computer" explorer window but it wasnt transfered to partition C. its gone. Partition D in Disk Management shows up 100% correct but when going to properties the computer returns a differnt result. I took a print screen for details.


Thanks to anyone who can help me out <3.
and sorry for the slightly pixelated image if you guys/ladies need i can try and clean it up abit.Is this Windows7?
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/2672-partition-volume-shrink.html
http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/2670-partition-volume-extend.htmlYeah its windows 7. I did thoes exact steps for Disk Management, the only difference is when i tried to shrink the volume it came up with a error and didnt turn up with any space that was unallocated.
the error returns "The parameter is INCORRECT."Got me stumped. What version of windows 7?Have you tried using a 3rd-party partition manager like EaSEUS Partition Manager? This is a rather odd problem...Sorry for the late reply but my family moved to a differnt house and we just registered the internet which im very unsatisfied with. >.>
but anyway I have EASEUS Partition Manager. and this is windows Ultimate 64bitYou probably just wiped your hidden restore partition in the process...

Can't tell much from that image.naw thats not the case in the screenshot theres a partition labeled HP_RECOVERY (OEM do not use) thats the recovery partition.
im just assuming its a faulty HARDRIVE, so when i get the money ill be replacing it along with all my other hds with High capacity ones. Thanks anyway guys for trying to help Log into an administrator account. Find the drive in Computer, right click it and select properties. Click the quota tab. Are disk quotas enabled?Quote from: dante10k on December 14, 2011, 08:49:43 PM

naw thats not the case in the screenshot theres a partition labeled HP_RECOVERY (OEM do not use) thats the recovery partition.
im just assuming its a faulty hardrive, so when i get the money ill be replacing it along with all my other hds with High capacity ones...

Ok i w as playing WoW earlier today i recenlty started playing PC games on my dads PC which is a VAIO and its ok but when i play the game i get large line shooting across the screen like the meshes got pulled randomly and part of the game window WOULD go black in some polygon style shape!
i drew some pictures in Paint
here they are
http://s910.photobucket.com/albums/ac304/blackhade/?action=view&current=exampler.jpg
Its most likely hardware issue PLEASE help me!Get the latest driver: http://www.nvidia.com/Download/index5.aspx?lang=en-us
what if that doesnt work!I have already attempted that!by the way the one graphics card is suppoting 2 monitors!Could be defective graphics card. No way to test other than replacing it.the reason for all this is the pc NEVER used to do any of this !Games bring out the worst in any computer.take a look at this when i drag the window when these DOTS appear on my screen http://i910.photobucket.com/albums/ac304/blackhade/fail.jpgno one replying? gunna leave me hanging? If you tried updating your video driver, then it's the graphics hardware. Replace it.

In fact, the entire thing points to failed Video memory- corrupted geometry coordinates, broken 2-D display, etc.





Quote from: blackhade on June 24, 2010, 06:50:41 PM

the reason for all this is the pc NEVER used to do any of this!

...do you recommend any good cards that would be supported on my pc?...

Lenovo IdeaPad Z570 59315953 with "Intel® Core™ i7-2670QM (2.20 GHz, 6MB Cache) 2nd Generation Processor with Turbo Boost & Hyper-Threading Technology" ...Ram : 4GB DDR3 ... 750GB SATA .. NVIDIA N12P-GV1 DDR3 (2GB) .... I want to know your valuable reviews about this laptop and How it's GRAPHICS card performance ?
From PCPro: http://www.pcpro.co.uk/reviews/laptops/369178/lenovo-ideapad-z570/commentsthanks for reply but I do not want Lenovo Z570 reviews ..... i give a specific model and some configuration .. i want to know about that and graphics performance . The processor is very nice, but the graphics card will not HANDLE mid and high end games. It is not designed for gaming.

Hi. Please may I have some advice. I have a Fujitsu Siemens Amilo li1817 laptop, every now and again when I go to swith it on nothing HAPPENS, there is a noise from the casing and I see the cpu fan does not spin. Now when I disconnect the AC power and remove the BATTERY and put the battery and power cord back in it works. I can't UNDERSTAND it at all. Any advice to what is causing this please.

Regards
ChrisCertainly sounds like a faulty/intermittent electrical contact related to the power availability to the computer. Is that laptop able to work (normally) WITHOUT a battery in it where it gets it's power only from AC power supply? truenorthHi and thanks for your reply. I haven't tried what you SUGGESTED. I will do a test and see. Thanks

I have a choice of 2 Mobos and would like your advice on which one to use as my main PC. 1) Asus M3A Rev 1.xx, AMD Athlon 64X2 6000+ Windsor core, 4Gbt Corsair Ram, GeForce 9500GT Grephics Card. 2) MSI G41TM-E43 (MS7592), Pentium Dual Core E6600 @3.06Ghz Wolfdale, 4 Gbt Corsair Ram, onboard Graphics. I will be using W7 64bit. I understand some people have their preferences between AMD & Intel processors, and would APPRECIATE advice solely on performance. I do not do GAMING, but some video editing/general surfing etc. Thanks for any advice in advance. AlexmaThe second setup has a better processor, so it would be better for the usage scenarios you describe.Thank you Calum, Would you RECOMMEND using the 9500 GPU with the MSI board, as opposed to the onboard graphics? AlexmaIf you run dual monitors or do anything even slightly graphically demanding, it would be an improvement - if not, then it won't make a difference. If you have it available though, you may as WELL use it.The 9500GT has its own memory so it shouldn't be eating up your RAM stick memory.

So you get all your RAM stick memory available for other things.

I have an older computer but I found that using a 9500GT makes some WEBPAGES look better imo.

i had a noisy gpu fan ( fan on right side) i read that the oil in the fan must have leaked out somehow so i opened it up and put a drop of hair clipper oil in there. it fixed the problem for about 2 months. it started again today so i opened it up to do the oil trick again but RAN into a STRIPPED screw and couldnt get the fan out. after reassembling the laptop i get this on bootup.

" reboot and select PROPER boot device or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key"

so its not detecting the hard drive right? i tried reseating the hard drive and opening the laptop back up to check and make sure everything was plugged in correctly. same problem

no recovery dvd's came with the laptop. i had to make my own when i first got it. i couldnt boot up to do any recover or repair with those either.

all i could do was hit f2 and get into the bios. there it looked like it only recognized one thing under the boot MENU. i cant remember what it exactly was but it was something like sata dvdram?? i wasnt sure if it was the hard drive or dvd drive.

now i cant even seem to get into the bios, in frustration i had started enabling and disabling things in the bios, i cant remember the last two things i enabled before my problem getting into the bios started. but now when i start up it just stays blank for a long time with a dash at the top left of the screen. after a while it says something about "for atheros pcie ethernet controller" below that it says "client mac addr" followed by numbers and letters. after a while of that it says no dhcp or proxdhcp offers were received, exiting intel pxe rom.

i hope that tells you what option i enabled in the bios. after that it goes back to "reboot and select proper boot device" i can't even get into the bios now. sigh...very frustrated with this and have no money for a repair shop. I think you should try resetting the bios, and check what happensQuote from: ShotAlive on December 16, 2011, 07:45:15 AM

I think you should try resetting the bios, and check what happens

I have an old laptop with SPECS Toshiba brand, MODEL SA10-S113, PSA10E-033RZ-AR, 73649977G. It has a 256 MB DDR1, PC2100,133 Mhz, 2.5V. My question is: can I UPGRADE my ram with DDR2, with a total 1GB (2 x 512MB)? As per its manual, the above laptop can be upgraded up to 1 GB. However, it does not say if I can upgrade it with DDR2. To all PC specialist, please give technical advice. Thanks in ADVANCE. No, you cant really upgrade. The type of ram is specific to the motherboard. If it calls for PC2100, than that is all it will accept. You may be able to find larger sticks of PC2100 ram, probably all the way up to 1GB per stick. You have to make sure you buy the right pin sized ram. I believe PC2100 comes in 184 and 200 pin.Do the memory test on Crucial. It will tell you what you can use or upgrade to.

http://www.crucial.com/?gclid=CLu61dLpu6ICFSAxiQodoB5v5A&cpe=pd_google_us&ef_id=1705:3:s_20ea08ff9c3bd721f4b1b5de7fc054af_1771 684583:TCTvsAqoEGMAAGpkF80AAEeI:20100625180432no your computer likes DDR1 type ram only the way it is now. You need new motherboard if you want DDR2.

Patio,
What is that $8 thing?

Thanks,
JohnNotebook hard drive to desktop hard drive converter.Sorry to sound like an ametuer...but I am!

Is the notebook hard drive to desktop hard drive converter to TRY to use to save data on my dead hard drive or to backup on a regular BASIS?

Thanks,
JohnI would try it to see if you can in fact get ANYTHING off that drive...
It connects your laptop drive to any working Desktop machine...
You will know if the data is accessible by looking at the laptop drive in WINDOWS Explorer on the Desktop machine...

HI, I'm currently having problems with my unit. Im on Windows XP. I just used my computer LAST night and it was working fine. I turned it off and there were no problems. This morning, I decided to dust it off. But when I turned it ON, the power light was working, the fan was turning, the heat sink was becoming warm, the HARD disk was turning, but there was no beep, no post, nothing. I've tried reseating the CABLES and RAM but STILL nothing. What could be wrong?

My unit is the NEC ValueOne MT 5003

Just downloaded the NVIDIA driver for my Toshiba A505 S6033 from Toshiba's website. However after installing it NVIDIA control panel is not WORKING. Is there a CERTAIN process I should follow to get it to work correctly? The Driver was released on June 7th and is an update from the one I already had released in March.

ThanksFollow the instructions SHOWN on the Toshiba download page for that driver. If it doesn't work, contact Toshiba.
http://www.csd.toshiba.com/cgi-bin/tais/support/jsp/modelContent.jsp?ct=SB&os=&category=&moid=2523355&rpn=PSAT9U&modelFilter=A505-S6033&selCategory=3&selFamily=1073768663Try going to the official NVidia site and PICK up a fresh copy of the latest drivers you need, and see if that works any. Else you probably want to do what Computer_Commando has suggested.Thanks Guys

I had replaced the original with one from a tech at work. The new one worked for a pretty good while (2 years) and now doesn't. I've done trouble shooting and it says it's OK. I've uninstalled it and checked for updated drivers and nothing works. I'm wondering if it's kaput but like I said, when troubleshooting it, it says it's working properly.

BTW, when I say it's not working means it doesn't recognise a disc and when clicking on the drive icon, it doesn't function (hour glass) and when closing says not responding.One of these may help:
1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...
2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
Restart computer.
or...
3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to UNZIP it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...
4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.

If none of the above works, most likely, you NEED a new drive.I was able to do most of the things mentioned, installing the patch didn't seem to go too smoothly. My drive is recognising some DISCS now as I installed a DVD burner PROGRAM. It also recognise a program called Dazzle, however, it fails to recognise Cd's with programs burned to them, Nero, Greetings workshop etc. Thanks for the help, it seems the drive may need replacing. Unfortunately, it looks like...

Hey, i just custom built a new desktop computer from scratch. It works great and all, except now it won't read any game discs/DVDs. It seemed like it started doing this when I installed a new keyboard and disabled some services to decrease memory USAGE. I don't THINK I disabled any service that would cause this problem, but I have tried everything, from reenabling all the startup services, and even a system RECOVERY. Its beyond me at this moment. My setup is below...

Case: XION Vantage AXP100 Gaming Series
Motherboard: ASUS M4A785TD-V EVO
CPU: AMD Athlon 2 X2 240 processor
GPU: ATI Radeon HD 4200
PSU: DiabloTek 450W power supply
HDD: Western Digital WD5000AVDS 500GB
DVD Drive: Sony iHDS1158... i'm actually not sure but it's a Sony

Any help is GREATLY appreciated Thanks all for your help

Will it boot to a DVD?My bet is it's a service you disabled...
Do a system RESTORE to a point prior to when you went playing around in there...No, it won't read any type of DVD's. I even bought a 10-pack of DVD-Rs and it won't read ANY of them which upsets me. I have tried a system restore last week, but same ol' problem. I just ordered a new drive today, so MAYBE that will work. BTW, the drive is a Lite-On. I don't know why I thought it wuz a Sony. lol ;pHave you tried downloading ffdshow drivers? That could be the problem. That happened to me when i bought an Emprex dvd-rw 5 years agoYeah ill try that. Drivers did come to mind but I just thought that the ones that were automatically installed when I installed this DVD drive would work as usual.

My CD/DVD COMBO drive keeps disappearing off of my system. When I reboot the device and icon and everything is there but after about 5 minutes or less of inactivity the icon disappears and it will not work. If I use the device after rebooting it will continue to work until there is about 5 minutes of inactivity and then again the icon will disappear and it will not work. I have a GATEWAY Pentium 4 2.60ghz desktop with 512MB ram and I am using windows XP SP3.

Please Help
Thank you
One of these may help:
1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...
2. HTTP://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
Restart computer.
or...
3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...
4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll SEE two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or SECONDARY Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.

A real doozy here for the boffins of CHF. First a small introduction, I work in a national electronics company, let's just call it maplans (although i've had customers call it that anyway) for now to avoid getting myself fired. As some of you may know, generally speaking at 'maplans' we know our tech, only very rarely does one of our guys let down the reputation.
Of the team in the local branch I am the chief computer guy, the one the others come to if they have a computer problem they're not sure of. I'm self-taught over a period of 10+ years, and am pretty well-versed on the majority of computer related issues.

So here's what had me stumped, aswell as my CUSTOMER today, and his brother (a Microsoft employee). He purchased a motherboard bundle, the Phenom 630 on an ECS board with 2GB 800MHz memory. Upon discovering he had no video output, the customer returned it and exchanged for another, exactly the same. Same problem.
It was at this point after speaking to the customer on the phone that I volunteered to have a look at the system if he were to bring it in (and herein lies the reason behind my keeping some details vague; it is breaching the terms of my contract to tinker as 'maplan' does not account for experience or qualification due to insurance reasons).

I'll cut to the chase; the customer had done nothing wrong, and yet two subsequent boards had yielded the exact same failure; no video output, but even more unusual, no BIOS beeps to indicate a fault, even with monitor and keyboard unplugged.
I suggested another bundle, and so the customer opted for the triple-core 9350, again on an ECS board and with 2GB 800MHz memory.
Same fault.

To verify the issue I even chose another PSU out of stock (again breaking the terms of my contract), the 700W modular unit from iCute, to rule out the possibility of the fault lying with the customers 570W PSU (also sold by us, brand must go unnamed as only we stock it).
Same fault.


So to conclude, and also to add in some extra detail, there was no video output on three motherboards; two of the same model with the same CPU, and one different mobo with again a different CPU.
This fault was replicated across all three boards, with both PSUs on both types of board/CPU combo, and every single time without a beep from the board to indicate a fault.
All other normal signs of life in the board were there, and the only constant in the setup was the case (a possible EARTHING problem? Though the customer had no prior problem with his PREVIOUS board).

No other boards of these types have been returned.

So ruling out the extremely unlikely event of a localised EMP (though we have the technology!), what on earth could possibly have caused this?

If any answers can help me to help the customer (I pride myself on my own after-market support, even if the company doesn't), then absoluely brilliant, but I'd also just like to know what the bleep was happening.Try another PSU...
Then swap out the RAM.

It's probably not the MBoard although i wouldn't rule out the CPU at this point...okay, so what you have said here is that the customer has bought 3 motherboards, tested them and that nothing appears on screen. does the computer even have signs of booting (CD-ROM spinning up, floppy drive checked, etc...) and also does it have an onboard graphics port (DB-15)?

Have you tried putting in a graphics card and seeing if that will work?

Thanks
MerlynAh sorry, knew I forgot some other details.

This was both with and without a graphics card; onboard and external graphics give no output. And I did say all other signs of life are there; all parts recieve power, everything spins up that should be spinning.

And one of the boards wasn't paid for Another reason I'm not disclosing too many identifying details. I honestly would not put it past the company to pull someone up on a disciplinary over going out of their way to help a customer.
But that's workplace politics for ya.Well i'm going to divulge myself from workplace Politics...
Feel free to try my suggestions...or not.and i presume you have tried many screens on this problem, Check the jumpers (shunts) on the MoBo and SEE if they are all configured correctly. othewise i would try looking into a electrical fault that the motherboards have got some from of energy from the customers input devices and possibly fried all 3 motherboards.

Just a thought. It's great to see you going out of your way to satisfy your customer.

Use the MoBo manual check jumpers and connections and get back to me

MerlynThis was with both the customer's monitor, and ours at work. The jumpers were all in the correct places, I even jimmied them out between boots to see if the manufacturer had goofed.
And the third board was from stock, used with our PSU from stock too. That's the test that really proved it for me, made me realise I had no idea what could be causing it, barring the case somehow being responsble.on the power supply does it have a voltage selector, check to make sure that is right...

USA: 110V
Pacific: 220V

If you are sure that is correct, then we can try looking at the case being responsible... Did you assemble the computer in another case and test it?

I have had a Power-Supply completely short out my entire computer before because a cable was touching the case, and it blew up.

You seem to have eliminated that problem though, so this is a real doozy. try another case and another motherboard. there might be some kind of connection with the motherboard on the case.

MerlynUK, so only 220v here

The only non-variable was the case, so apart from the unlikely EMP theory (where would one even come from! ¯\(o_º)/¯ ) that was my prime suspect by the time we'd closed up shop.
So the only thing we didn't try was another case, though the customer assured me he'd had no previous issue wih his old board. With his PSU unconnected though and not receiving power, that left the only contact insofar as a short could occur, to be in the board/case contact. But this doesn't satisfactorily explain how the third board, tested with the 700W PSU from stock, immediately had the same fault. Different board, and no reason for the contact points to be causing a short.


Like I said, a real mindbender of a problem!


==========

Oh and thanks

I'd just had a few bad customer service experiences of my own before I got this job. Now at 'maplan' we pride ourselves on our knowledge base anyway, but our hands are tied as soon as the customer has actually bought the item, which I think is quite poor. So from time to time I, and so do my colleagues, bend the rules a little in going that extra mile

Far better than a trip to PCW, even if they're technically qualified (read: 'allowed') to do more regarding people's computers.
Not to bash only PC World for this, but it makes me laugh how they'll sell you something, usually with bad or wrong advice, then charge extra to fit or fix it for you. At 'maplan' we will sell you something, with the right advice and above all no 'upselling', and if we're quiet enough in-store and the manager is ok with it, we can put things together for you free of charge.


Not a plug! You wouldn't know where to go anyway Try another case. maybe the entire batch was faulty?

Have you got any other board that is not from the same cupboard or area that the others were stored in. Try that and see if it will do the same... I personally suspect a short or a missing jumper/setting.

Good luck.

MerlynQuote from: oxymoron_02 on June 22, 2010, 02:34:23 PM

...no video output, but even more unusual, no BIOS beeps to indicate a fault, even with monitor and keyboard unplugged...

I got an external hard drive that is about three to four years old. I made a mistake and kick the USB cable and the HDD fell off the table. Wait it gets worst. WINDOWS was reading it at the time and it came UNPLUGGED from the AC outlet and the USB port. Now when I try to fire it up, it makes a noise like it is trying to load but it does not. I have not tried to take it apart yet, well at least not the HDD itself. I did take it out of the enclosure but I just looked at it. Is there any way it can be fixed or at least get the data off of it. It is a Maxtor personal storage 3200 external drive with a 500GB Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm HDD inside. Is your computer a laptop or desktop? You will need a desktop to connect it to without the Ext HDD enclosure. This assumes the enclosure is DAMAGED and not the drive.I got a desktop and a laptop. I never thought about taken it out of the enclosure and hooking it up directly to the SATA cable in the desktop. I'll have to try that. I had it hooked up to my laptop with the USB cable at the time of the accident. I just really want to get my files off of it. I don't care if it ever works again after that. I got another drive to replace it.Quote from: Computer_Commando on June 21, 2010, 07:20:00 PM

Is your computer a laptop or desktop? You will need a desktop to connect it to without the Ext HDD enclosure. This assumes the enclosure is damaged and not the drive.

... I did take it out of the enclosure but I just looked at it....

...
... I never thought about taken it out of the enclosure...

When I first GOT my laptop it worked finee, but then I installed LSPatch, this patch was SUPPOSE to GET rid of the shutdown, and log off menus. I installed it, it didn't work, but this was not all that didn't work, i couldn't see my taskbar. So i decided to reinstall xp, The COMPUTER worked great, but my wifi didn't work. When I bought the computer, the person i bought it from told me he had upgraded the wireless in it. How do i get my wifi back?

I seriously need help, because i need the Wifi fast. After installing the OS you needed to install the drivers, starting with the CHIPSET driver. Did you do that?my computer won't recognize it at allQuote from: Allan on June 22, 2010, 09:13:18 AM

After installing the OS you needed to install the drivers, starting with the chipset driver. Did you do that?

Good evening...

I have a Dell Inspiron 1501 laptop and an old television that works A1 but only has an antennae connection and the antennae cable connector.

Can I somehow CONNECT my laptop (which only has a VGA output and an output for headphones) to my television? If so I would like to play DVD's from my laptop and also .avi files if possible.

Any help/advice greatly appreciated as usual.

Gracias,
SampQuote from: samp on June 20, 2010, 04:11:52 PM

...I have a Dell Inspiron 1501 laptop and an old television that works A1 but only has an antennae connection and the antennae cable connector.
Can I somehow connect my laptop (which only has a VGA output and an output for headphones) to my television? If so I would like to play DVD's from my laptop and also .avi files if possible...

I recently purchased a Dazzle plus HD video capture card which came with an editing software Pinnacle studio 14. When i run pinnacle it runs very slow and when i record videos it lags and does not record enough frames. Does my computer need a new video/graphics card or more RAM? thank youIt's difficult to see your computer from here. What are the SPECS?Windows XP home edition 2002
Service pack 3
INTEL(R)
Pentium(R) 4 CPU 2.80GHz
2.79 GHz, 512 MB of RAMA quick google for (pinnacle studio 14 specs)


1 GB system memory recommended, 2 GB required for AVCHD*


DirectX ® 9 or 10 compatible graphics card with 64 MB (128 MB or HIGHER recommended) - 128 MB required for Red Giant Magic Bullet Looks Plug-in: Pixelshader 2 required, Intel GMA integrated graphics not supported. - 256 MB required for HD and AVCHD*Yes, you might want to increase the ram and see how it runs then.

I am wondering, did they make the intel Xeon processor in multiple slot types? And how would I go about finding out what type of processor slot I have? under device manager under computer it says I have a "ACPI multi-processor PC" does this reference the motherboard in any way? under processors on device manager all it says is Intel(R) Xeon(TM) CPU 2.4GHz four timesIt's a Quad Core CPU.

What MBoard do you have ? ?Quote from: patio on June 19, 2010, 06:27:00 AM

It's a Quad Core CPU.

What MBoard do you have ? ?

...using EVEREST my motherboard shows up as Supermicro P4DC6...

darn, I guess since the board won't allow anything past 2.4ghz there is no room to upgrade.

• Dual mPGA603 ZIF Sockets
• Supports up to two Intel® Xeon® processor(s) with 512KB of integrated Advanced Transfer Cache up to 2.4GHz<<<STRAIGHT from your link

looks like you got me nailed lol, just checked my proccessor stats on EVEREST and everything is exactly what you posted. How much of a performance bump do you think I could reasonably expect? Would I have to into my system bios and change the input voltage on my cpu?

I am USING a dell studio 16 LAPTOP on vista and am having problems with the sound.

When I am playing DVDs, i can hear only background music- no dialogue at all.

Other sound is working fine (playing music and watching films online etc).

Any help would be greatly APPRECIATED. I'm worse than useless with these things Studio XPS 1640, 1645, or 1647?Hi,

Beg your pardon, it's a studio 1535...Quote from: jdog90 on June 20, 2010, 03:41:59 PM

...it's a studio 1535...

I bought a Philips DVD-RW for myself & my friend on ebay not too long ago. My drive is working fine but not my friends. On both drives at the back theres no pins where it says 'AUDIO' Could this be causing the problem? The jumper setting on the back of it is fine, its SET to Master.

His PC spes are:
Philips IQon
1248mb DDR RAM
32mb SiS Graphics cardI gather you are saying that both optical drives are identical. If so remove yours and install his in your computer in the precise manner yours is installed. You do not need to remove yours to do this. Nor do you need to physically install his in a bay. Just place it on a stable object and try it. If it works then there is most likely a software configuration on his that is not ADEQUATE. Unless he already has another optical drive on the same cable. In which case "master" would not be appropriate. All this is based on both being not SATA drives (other than the switch i suggested). If they are SATA different ISSUES might be INVOLVED. I assumed NON sata as you have the ability it seems to select master/slave /cable.truenorth

Subject SAYS it all.. What are the OS running on each computer? Are you using a router along with your modem, or do you just CONNECT one computer directly to a modem?Thanks for the help but i already got it...

Solution: My 1st computer is connected to a router that is connected to a modem... i simply plugged in a Ethernet cable to connect both computers.. and then i bridged the wireless NETWORK and the local area connection. then i just troubleshooted the 2ND computer's internet connection.. and bam it worked...

Still having issues with my internet GETTING disconnected while still in a webcam chat with someone... for example in having a voice CONVERSATION with some one and my browsers just wont let me to any websites.. i posed the issue on the Software;Internet browsers forum.. didn't get solved though

I have a Dell 4600 desktop with 2 256 memory STRIPS for 512. My son said I could add 2 1 gig strips which he ordered for me. I put them in, but the computer now just RECOGNIZES 256. Is this a matter of having them in the wrong slot configuration? How can I fix?You should check at the Dell site WHETHER that board supports 2 1G strips...
Also check to see if he ordered the CORRECT RAM...not all RAM is alike.A quick google shows it will accept 2 gigs of ram. As patio said, make sure it is the right type. Calls for PC2700 DDR SDRAM http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=Dimension%204600

i got a dell wireless keyboard and MOUSE a while ago but i had to buy batteries to often so i went and bought a WIRED mouse today so i dissconnected my wireless mouse and keyboard a CONNECTED my new wired mouse but after i connected it my dell computer would not let the mouse work until i uninstalled the old mouse but when i tried to plug in the old mouse it doesnt connect so now neighther of my mice work and i cannot move the cursor1) How did you "uninstall" the old mouse?
2) Doesn't the laptop have a touchpad?
3) Have you rebooted since uninstalling whatever you uninstalled?

Does anyone know why hard drives only come in four speeds? 5400rpm, 7200rpm, 10000rpm or 15000rpm.Historical and economic reasons. Each speed at one time represented the fastest commercially viable rotational speed, then as technology IMPROVED it was possible to go up to a higher speed. At that time competition meant that all manufacturers WOULD now be aiming for that new top speed. No point in going for an intermediate level, given that the motors etc would be more EXPENSIVE than industry standard parts. You see SIMILAR stratification in other parts such as RAM and CD and DVD read and WRITE speeds.

Hey guys!

Im looking to make a new rig and im going to try to put it all in an

Antec Mini P180
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129041

First I WOULD like to start by saying if you know a better Micro atx case please let me know.



Heres the rig im thinking of

Mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130269

Graphics Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102868 (X2 )

CPU
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103849

Additonal stuff
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815116010
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136533 (X2)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829102019&cm_re=soundblaster-_-29-102-019-_-Product






Ok well thats the rig.. I can tell its going to be pretty hot and I was thinking of getting this heatsink to help at a little bit.. Ill be investing in RAM fans HDD fans and w.e else I can... but this is what im worried about fitting atm

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103046You may have trouble with that capacitor bank just next to the CPU socket. Although you might find that the heatsink curves round them. You'll just have to try it and return it if it doesn't fit. The only way someone could give you a definite answer is if they had that exact mobo and heat sink.I think you made a good choice on the case. The PSU is on the bottom and will allow lots of ROOM for that monster CPU cooler. The fans at the top of the case are in a PERFECT location to exhaust CPU heat. It will be a tight fit. You did notice that the case is "Unavailable"?Haha yea I did but it's available on amazon and places like that. It's going to be s month or so until I order all the stuff so hopefully I will be able to get it from new egg

I have a recurring problem with my CD/DVD burner. After burning a few CDs I find that my Lenovo 3000 DESKTOP (Vista Business) does not accept the fact that there is a blank CD in the burner. not only that, but pressing Eject has no effect. The Lenovo doesn't have the usual tiny hole beside the tray so the only way to overcome the problem is to turn of the computer and do a cold boot. SOMETIMES I have to do this a couple of times. I have run various registry repairers and defragmenters without success.

Does anybody have any suggestions as to how I can fix this problem permanently? My drivers are up to date.I replied on the other FORUM, you posted very same question.Unfortunately I can't remember which forum you replied in! Despite the advice I received the problem persists.One of these may help:
1. UNINSTALL the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...
2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
Restart computer.
or...
3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...
4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.Sorry Broni,

I found you other reply and will try your suggestions.

Thanks for your help.

Hey,

I recently bought a Dell Studio 1749. It came with an ATI HD 4650 1 GB GPU and a core i7 Processor. The BIOS recognizes it as a 1747 though, so, I guess that's what I got. Dell and their faulty MARKETING. I hit the same benchmarks as a 1749 though, anyway...

I have a serious issue that only occurs with some video, not games. I am able to play Oblivion on Ultra HIGH max settings with good framerates and mods installed to bump up the graphics, no problem. On Amazon Unbox online HD video I've never had a problem. However, whenever viewing HD Video on YouTube on full screen, or Hulu videos, or videos on some other sites, it will stay stable for a few minutes.

The screen then goes black, and sometimes I can hear the videos' audio still playing, sometimes not.

Today, I hit escape as I waited for the black screen to come up. I recently updated my video drivers, but, I figured that wouldn't fix it at all.

I glimpsed an error on the taskbar (using Windows 7 Home PREMIUM 64-bit) that said "AMD Graphics driver has experienced a display error but has successfully recovered" or something ALONG those lines. Does anyone know what this means? I Googled it, and it TURNS out that I should probably update the rest of my drivers, but, they all seem relatively up to date, the BIOS is, I'm downloading everything Dell's got. I would like to watch video.

I have no idea why it flakes out only when watching videos. Full screen mode tends to exacerbate the issue, but, it still happened to me in Windows Media Player AND Windows Movie Maker when I was making heavy video edits.

I always have the laptop plugged in and on High Performance mode.

P.S. After this black screen/display driver fail, I usually have to force-restart my PC, or, in this case, as of right now, my PC is working, but, it is much slower than normal, like it got punched in the stomach and is still out of breath. That's the best way I can put it.

Full Specs:

Core i7 720QM Processor w/ Hyperthreading
4 GB DDR3 1333 MHz RAM
500 GB SATA 7200 RPM HDD
17.3" HD+ Screen
ATI Mobility HD 4650 1 GB GPU
Laptop

P.P.S. I suppose this could go in "Drivers" but, I think it's equally likely to be a hardware problem? The Dell Diagnostics' tests report nothing wrong.It's definitely the 1747 because the 1749 has a different graphics card.
Drivers & Downloads for Studio Laptop 1747
The graphics driver listed in the link above is dated 6/1/2010.

Here's the direct link:
http://support.dell.com/support/downloads/download.aspx?c=us&cs=19&l=en&s=dhs&releaseid=R271318&SystemID=STUDIO1747&servicetag=&os=W764&osl=en&deviceid=21208&devlib=0&typecnt=0&vercnt=2&catid=-1&impid=-1&formatcnt=0&libid=6&typeid=-1&dateid=-1&formatid=-1&source=-1&fileid=400399
Yup yup... I downloaded that. I think I'm going to call Dell and ask them why I got a 1747 when I bought a 1749.Quote from: Necifix on June 19, 2010, 05:09:18 PM

Yup yup... I downloaded that. I think I'm going to call Dell and ask them why I got a 1747 when I bought a 1749.

Hi guys my lacie EXTERNAL hard DRIVE is no recognised by my computer, it gives this error"Usb device not recognised"...?Pls guys help mi out my staff is all in there.......1. Try plugging it into a DIFFERENT USB port.
2. Try unplugging all unnecessary USB devices and then plug it in.
3. If the device is designed to use two USB plugs, make sure they are both plugged in before ATTACHING the drive.
4. Try it on another computer.When you got the external HDD did it bring a cd?...this may contain drivers needed for your PC to recognise the usb.Quote from: LeoITT on June 18, 2010, 10:34:41 AM

When you got the external HDD did it bring a cd?...this may contain drivers needed for your PC to recognise the usb.

He has been using it OK for a while, I believe... he wrote "my staff is all in there" - I think he means "stuff"....

So, I think we accidentally uninstalled our audio and sound on our computer. My daughter went to put in her game and said she couldn't hear it. I went to turn up the volume, and it was not in the tray. After searching for 2 days, I have come to the conclusion something must have been uninstalled. We have no sound, when I go to sounds and audio devices, I see nothing. Everything is grayed out. Under the sound tab audio tab etc. says no device... I'm confused, but whatever. I looked on Microsoft website for drivers, but it just confuses me. I thought having sound and stuff just came with XP. However, at one point a box popped up and said something wasn't working blah, blah, blah. I clicked it but it ASKED me to insert a disc to reinstall. (was this suppose to be a windows disc?) Don't have it. Can anyone please give me detailed info on what to do? Not just a link or "general info". I'd really like to fix the computer and have sound soon. My brain hurts from searching and searching. Is there an XP driver free download from Microsoft or whatever, that wouldn't cost anything and you wouldn't need a disc for? I didn't know it could be so easy to accidentally uninstall something. I'm usually decent with computers, but this is making me feel dumb! Thanks for any help!!!!! I appreciate it!Sorry this is going to be a one-liner answer but each driver is tailored to specific hardware. We will need to know what computer you are using, even make and model can be enough.Well, it actually may be a rebuilt one. It does not say anywhere on the tower. The moniter is dell, but it doesn't say dell on the computer. My other computer is still in storage, this one is temporary RIGHT now. I tried system restore, but it wouldn't let me do that?Have you gone through the Device Manager for Driver Signing? You may want to look for any Yellow mark if there's any for your Sound Device. If there's any, just right-click on that mark and click properties and go to driver menu. You may be able to read some options about on the driver menu. Quote from: jason2074 on JUNE 18, 2010, 07:59:47 PM

Have you gone through the Device Manager for Driver Signing? You may want to look for any Yellow mark if there's any for your Sound Device. If there's any, just right-click on that mark and click properties and go to driver menu. You may be able to read some options about on the driver menu.

Well, it actually may be a rebuilt one. It does not say anywhere on the tower. The moniter is dell, but it doesn't say dell on the computer. My other computer is still in storage, this one is temporary right now. I tried system restore, but it wouldn't let me do that?

Well, it actually may be a rebuilt one. It does not say anywhere on the tower. The moniter is dell, but it doesn't say dell on the computer. My other computer is still in storage, this one is temporary right now. I tried system restore, but it wouldn't let me do that?

How do you blow out the dust from your PC case?
You don't need to rent an big air compressor!
Look at this:
You Tube Dusty PC Blow Out
On the right side there are over a dozen other amazing ways to clean your PC.
Which one would you NOT recommend? The boring guy with soapy water!Although I didn't see it on there, you definitely want to avoid using a vacuum.

My preferred method is a can of compressed air. It costs about $4, lasts for months, and gets the job done in seconds. I blast some air through the vents about once a WEEK, so my PC doesn't really have a chance to collect dust. Now I just need something that will work for the rest of the house.CB, The "house " issue can be solved (best if done at construction--but also possible as a retrofit) by LOCATING a large centrally located high powered sucking fan (such as a chicken house cooler fan). Then simply go through the house with a leaf blower with the fan on (vented to the outdoors) and the airborne dust will be sucked up and out of the dwelling. Depending on the force of the sucking fan and the size of the duct work this can make removal of nick knacks less of a chore when you get TIRED of them. truenorthNot a bad idea, but we can't afford that anytime soon. Leafblowing the house does sound fun, though. Heh.Quote from: truenorth on APRIL 25, 2010, 12:12:39 PM

CB, The "house " issue can be solved (best if done at construction--but also possible as a retrofit) by locating a large centrally located high powered sucking fan (such as a chicken house cooler fan). Then simply go through the house with a leaf blower with the fan on (vented to the outdoors) and the airborne dust will be sucked up and out of the dwelling. Depending on the force of the sucking fan and the size of the duct work this can make removal of nick knacks less of a chore when you get tired of them. truenorth

Then simply go through the house with a leaf blower with the fan on

Not a bad idea, but we can't afford that anytime soon. Leafblowing the house does sound fun, though. Heh.

Unless someone has a miracle cure for my 6/16 post "No Video on Boot," I'm going to need to build a new system.

Would appreciate your recommendations for an AMD based system, as follows:

a) Win 7, 32 bit.
b) I'm not a gamer but would like to have a fast system - but don't need high priced video card.
c) I've always used ASUS motherboards and would like to stick with them - but would use another mfg based on recommendations here.
d) Non RAID.
e) Partial to Western Digital HD's - current system uses WD Raptors, but there may be better drives now; maybe an SSD for OS but need recommendations.
f) Will CONSIDER Intel if the overall system yields a better value/cost ratio.

Thanks for any input!Budget?

See my specs on left. Overall about US$1500Thanks, kpac. I want to spend $5-600 and will use my current case (not PSU, though) and optical drive.

Your specs are more than I need. I'm thinking more along the lines of Phenom II x 2 555 Callisto @ 3.2 GHz (and maybe unlock to 3 or 4 cores, if I'm lucky) and an ASUS M4A87TD or M4N75TD - btw, any thoughts on AMD chipset v. NVIDIA?

What about triple channel v. dual channel relative to performance? In my case (32 bit), I'd be looking at 3 x 1 GB triple channel or 2 x 2 GB dual channel so I suspect that the additional half GB +/- of usable RAM on dual channel would out weigh any performance advantage to the triple channel, but I don't know.

Any thoughts on hard drives? SSD?

For $600, reusing your case and optical drive, you can get a nice system if you're not gaming.
I specced out an Intel i3 based build for $415 including shipping, minus $40 rebates. That's using the onboard graphics on the i3, which are sufficient if you're not gaming, with a decent 500GB HDD, decent motherboard, good PSU, 4GB of RAM, etc. Add a nice SSD to that and you should be set - how does that sound?
Going the AMD route doesn't save you a whole lot of money for the lesser performance ($15), I really like and recommend the Intel i3 CPUs at the minute, they're great performance for the money.Calum - Thanks for the suggestions! Is the i3 better (faster) than the Phenom I REFERENCED? What MB did you use in your i3 build? Memory? What PSU do you like?

If you did an AMD build, what MB would you use?Ack, I managed to not copy/paste my links, apologies about that! I must also apologise as I did a price comparison vs. a Phenom II X4 based build, not the X2 555 which yuou referenced, so the price difference is slightly in AMD's favour.
An i3 vs a Phenom II, the i3 is dual CORE with hyper threading but is faster clock for clock. Comparing, say, an unlocked Phenom II 555 (which would be equivalent to what, a 965?) to an i3 530, the i3 will handily beat the Phenom in single threaded apps, will be outdone in heavily multithreaded tasks, and will use much less power. If you're looking at unlocking cores, are you also looking into overclocking? An i3 will almost always reach 4GHz with ease and a slightly uprated cooler than stock, and almost all can also be easily pushed further. If the Phenom doesn't unlock though, you are stuck with 2 cores, which will be easily bested by the i3 in every task.
Newegg list:
Corsair CX400W PSU, $49.99 with $20 rebate, free shipping - fantastic quality 400W PSU, will handle this build with ease even if you later add a midrange card such as the 5770.
Intel Core i3 530 CPU (Retail) - $114.99, free shipping - if you plan to overclock, GRAB a cooler and buy the OEM version instead to save a little cash.
Gigabyte H55M-UD2H motherboard - $96.99 with $10 rebate, $0.99 shipping - great Intel board, decent layout, nice mix of EXPANSION slots.
G.Skill Ripjaws 2x2GB 1333MHz RAM - $96.99, free shipping - great kit of RAM, G.Skill has a reputation for reliability and customer service.
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12 500GB HDD - $54.99, free shipping - nice 500GB HDD, not sure how much space you need but grab the 1TB version if you need more. Nice and fast, reliable, also very quiet, I owned this drive for a good while.

For an AMD build I would grab this board - it's got fantastic reviews all over the net, a great set of features and good onboard graphics, etc. Or, you could grab a newer 880G based board for the newer chipset with native SATA3 and USB3 support, but I've yet to see an 880 based board I really like= so I'm not sure what to recommend.Calum - Thanks for the additional comments. Your in-depth, thoughtful, knowledgeable comments are a credit to you and to CH.

Thanks for the extra effort!You're more than welcome, thankyou for the kind words.
Any questions, don't hesitate to ask!

Title pretty much says what's going on. On multiple OCCASIONS I've tried copying files in the 60-300mb range onto my hard drive yet the copying process stops at around 50mbs and the drive disconnects and then reconnects a few minutes later WITHOUT resumption. Small files seem to be fine but it's these 50mb+ files I'm having trouble with.

The drive is formatted with Fat32 and has 366.4GB used. The model number of the drive is HD-CE1.0TU2-A4.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated.Is this the one?Quantos,
Is this what you are thinking?
Quote

Buffalo DriveStation HD-CEU2 USB Drive Firmware Alert!

It appears there's something seriously wrong with the Buffalo's recently face-lifted DriveStation USB-only hard drives. The fan-less external storage may reportedly show 'unintended behavior' during hibernation or standby modes on PCs (presumably Windows). In some cases, there could be a remote possibility that the data may be rendered inaccessible; now that's scary.

Buffalo acknowledged this is a problem that can be fixed via a simple firmware patch, assuming you haven't been hit yet. The ENTIRE line of DriveStation seems to be affected, including HD-CE320U2, HD-CE500U2, HD-CE640U2, HD-CE750U2, and HD-CE1.0TU2. Since a solution is already made available online, it's safe to say the latest shipment of the Buffalo DriveStation is bug-free. For precaution, one should check with the firmware program whether your new drive still needs the patch. Better safe than sorry.
http://www.everythingusb.com/buffalo-drivestation-hd-ceu2-usb-hard-drive-16085.html

Good day to all of you tech people,
I just wanna ask about my friend's sony vios laptop which shutsdown after logging in to windows. I noticed that no air is coming out from the ventilation, so i suspected it was a fan failure. As i go to the recent windows event, it was stated a "BLUESCREEN" problem. COULD it be a hardware problem or some thing just turn off the fan that makes the laptop shutsdown due to overheating? I appreciate any good or great comments from you, Thanks... jason2074, Welcome to the Ch forums. The reasons for a fan failure can be varied. Also so can the remedies from simple to not so.The easiest would be to blow out the interior of the computer with compressed air.When doing this procedure one needs to ensure that the fan blades do not freewheel as this can damage them. Yes if the fans fail to operate computers will usually shut down due to overheating. ABSOLUTELY your Friend should stop using the computer until the fan cooling is restored.The fan itself can be defective--that does happen.Also the terminals connected to the power for the fans may have become disconnected. For most people it is not advisable to probe around in the interior of a laptop (unlike a desktop which with PROPER precautions can readily be delved into).
I would try the dust removal 1st and see what you get from that point.truenorthRemove the Dust an then UPDATE the BIOSQuote from: funnyman_123 on April 26, 2010, 10:06:03 PM

Remove the Dust an then update the BIOS

Hi I have a Toshiba Sattelite L305D laptop. My printer is HP Photosmart C4480 all-in-one. I have had it for over a year, it worked just fine. Now I cant use the scan feature, I get a message saying "imaging device is not found". I have uninstalled, reinstalled, the cd software that it came with, and have gotten the software package from HP's website, and it is all updated. I can make copies, and print from the pc and the printer console. I do not know what else to do. I did see error in device manager stating the registry entries were not configured correctly/ or damaged. I do not know how to mess with the registry. Any help please would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.Not knowing EXACTLY how you uninstalled and reinstalled the device software that is usually the area that CAUSES the type of problem you are having. You need to completely uninstall ALL the software related to the ALL IN ONE device not just the scanner software. You will need to do that via the add/remove programs. You will need to verify that after you believe the software has been uninstalled that no reference to the printer exists in the control panel printers tab.If any reference to the device remains at that point you need to go into the "device manager" and delete the device from there. Once that has been accomplished then you need to follow the instructions for installing the all in one as if it was a 1st time install. That usually means a precise order of actions.Such as not physically connecting the device until advised by the INSTALLATION program to do so. So when you have uninstalled all the software appropriate to the device you need to also physically disconnect it from the computer. While you are probably beyond the free phone TECH support from HP you most likely still have free tech support via the HP Tech support web site. If the suggestions preceding do not resolve your issue you might give that a try. good luck,truenorthAgreed...
If it is a USB device it does NOT get connected when re-installing the software...

You only plug it in AFter you are prompted by the install software.
It needs to be removed from Device Manager as well prior to this procedure.Great honour to have agreement from exalted one.Little Grasshopper thanks you.truenorthFirst of all thank you for your quick responses. And I am sorry I didnt specify more clearly my actions. I did uninstall all HP from the add/remove programs. And removed from device manager. I have done all I know how to do. I also chatted with HP online, I followed all his instructions, still no scanning ability. I would like to smash this HP machine of mine! I cant help but think maybe the registry is the problem. But as I said I do not know how to clear it of my HP entries. So I am TRULY at a loss. Thank you for all your input, I appreciate it. Please explain what you mean by this? "But as I said I do not know how to clear it of my HP entries. So I am truly at a loss".truenorthI'm sorry if I was not specific. What I meant by that statement is, I do not know how to remove the registry entries pertaining to the HP all in one. I mentioned that I got an error message in device manager that the HP printer entries were either configured incorrectly or damaged. So I do not know if this has anything to do with my problems. DO NOT try to do anything pertaining to the registry of the computer. If you have followed ALL the previous instructions i stated earlier and you no longer are seeing any references to the printer device then you are ready to do the reinstall. If you still have ANY references to the device (hardware/software) you are NOT ready. What is your SITUATION now re the preceding? When you do get to the stage of reinstall then all matters pertaining to the device including any registry entries will be taken care of at that time (unless somehow windows registry entries have been corrupted/damaged/deleted). Please tell us where you are at in the process now?truenorth

i have a hitachi 40 GB removable hdd,when i copied the file imagetly power cut and my hard disk is currupt,so what i do for the restore my very imp DATA pls help MEWHAT type of OS u have

My laptop is an HP Compaq Presario with AMD Turion 64 2.0 GHz, 1 GB RAM, 80GB HDD using Windows XP SP3. I was able to restart/standby/hibernate the laptop without any problem until recently. But now, though it can ENTER restart/standby/hibernate status smoothly, it would not wake up or RESUME most of the times. Only the lights for power, volume etc. would come up but the screen remains blank and there would be no light from the USB mouse. The hard disk indicator would not blink and the system sound will gradually become louder (may be it is heated up).

However, when I press the power BUTTON for a while, the system shuts down and it would resume/wakeup from whatever state it was before – from hibernation or standby or restart.

Please HELP me to resolve the problem.If your laptop is still under warranty then I would suggest contacting HP/Compaq.

Have a Logitech QuickCam ZOOM working nicely via Mirascan software v.4.02, but when TRYING to INSTALL it on W7, it failed to work..couldnt find a W7 compatible driver neither as 32 bits nor 64 bits...and yes I tried to find one on the Logitech website, but no LUCK there I think you're out of luck. See support matrix:
http://logitech-en-amr.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/logitech_en_amr.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=3428yup, can see that..thansk anyway, cool...have to buy a NEW one...lol ...might send the bill to MS..hahahaha

Is it possible to use an external hard drive to back up both PC and PS3 files? The PS3 files are in FAT32 FORMAT, and I know you have to reformat the hard drive from NTFS to FAT32. So is it possible to have a portion of the hard drive in FAT32 while having the rest of it in NTFS so that I can back up my PC files? The hard drive is a Seagate 320 GB.Why can't you back up all with FAT32 on the external hard drive?I'm going to sound like a noob when I ask this but, will the PC files work properly in a FAT32 format? If so, what method would I use to partition one section specifically for the PS3 files?Quote from: Lizard1380 on June 17, 2010, 05:19:51 PM

1. I'm going to sound like a noob when I ask this but, will the PC files work properly in a FAT32 format?
2. If so, what method would I use to partition one section specifically for the PS3 files?