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InterviewSolution
This section includes InterviewSolutions, each offering curated multiple-choice questions to sharpen your knowledge and support exam preparation. Choose a topic below to get started.
| 20801. |
Solve : Overclocking + SLI Problem? |
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Answer» I am currently having an issue that I cannot find a solution for, and am hoping someone could assist me. i decided to flash the bios before installing the second card to play it safe. Quote from: KompactKites on December 07, 2011, 07:13:50 PM Also, unfortunately since I do not have a floppy drive and don't want to risk it, updating the motherboard bios is not really an option for me, and I found a thread were someone had the same problem, tried to update the bios but that did not fix it, so I assume it wont work for me either. Which is it? Did you or did you not flash the BIOS? Have you tried getting your CPU to the clock speed that you want, then adding the second card and enabling SLI? In other words, overclocking your CPU FIRST, then doing the SLI after?Ah sorry, I fixed the post. I have a bad habit of calling it "flashed" when I remove the battery to reset the settings. So no, I did not flash the bios. I remove the battery because sometimes the "load optimized defaults" doesn't reset the ram divider and I did not want to miss anything. I didnt physically remove the card but I did disable SLI, then overclocked the cpu, then tried to re-enable SLI but it removes the option to enable SLI with CPU is overclocked. I dont believe physically removing the card and trying would work but am willing to try if you think it might? BTW, I am related to your avatar Quote from: KompactKites on December 07, 2011, 07:34:44 PM BTW, I am related to your avatar WELL, seeing as how you're a relative of the general, I'll try to help you on this one. Is this your motherboard? http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=1928&dl=1#ov Just to make sure, I have to ask, do you have the sli bridge installed? Have you read over your owners manual about enabling sli? The owner's manual for that board is here: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=1928&dl=1#manual If you look at pages 19-21, it shows you how to enable sli. Have you done that? I've just noticed this in your first postQuote I get a black screen with a flashing curser on the second card's monitor.SLI makes both of those video cards share the same workload. In most implementations, the cards have a master/slave configuration. From wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scalable_Link_Interface#Implementation Quote When the slave card is done, it sends its output to the master card, which combines the two images to form one and then outputs the final render to the monitor.Basically, what that means is, you have to have both monitors hooked up to the same card. See the diagrams here: http://www.slizone.com/object/sli_multi_monitor.html Both graphics cards will be working and sharing the workload but the output will only be coming from one card. You can CHOOSE which card you want for the output. As per your user's manual Quote Plug the display cable into either one of the two Your manual covers this in the section about the various BIOS options. Hopefully, that will get you somewhere and you will be able to overclock and use both cards. Post back if you have more questions. |
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| 20802. |
Solve : Windows and the World taking ARMS? |
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Answer» Windows 8 is made for the ARM silicon. The rest of the world has aalready taken the ARM in hand for everything electronic. Arduino goes ARM - new modulesQuote Windows 8 on ARM tablets: reference designs from Qualcomm, TI and ...Quote Windows 8: What We Hope to LearnModerator: this is a real Hardware story. Intel is doomed. We all must learn to love the ARM hardware. Our current hardware will be in mothballs in 18 months. Pay attention!Geek-- Your scaring me--did you go to the same seminary as that guy that had the earth coming to an end just a while ago? truenorthOficially not newsworthy... The comments about the intel doom and ARM being the wherewithall for your prognistications prove it.Quote from: truenorth on September 19, 2011, 05:13:19 PM Geek-- Your scaring me--did you go to the same seminary as that guy that had the earth coming to an end just a while ago? truenorthNo, I wasn't here. I was hiding in the Nevada desert. Don't be afraid. If you have a large stockpile of thermal grease and cooling fans, better dump them while the price is up. Withe ARM technology low power is the future. An ARM CPU, even when it is screaming, takes one watt of power. Or less. To understand the history and future impact of the ARM, here is a good starting point. (Of course, the Wikipedia articles have some shortcomings Quote ARM architectureQuote from: patio on September 19, 2011, 05:36:55 PM Oficially not newsworthy...Officially, no. It does represent a major drift between Microsoft and Intel. Time will tell if Intel can kept pushing super CPUs for consumer use. The consumers are getting jaded with computers they can not use or afford. So the buy i Phones and the i Pads. Both types of devices require low-cost low-power silicon. Meanwhile, your next portable 'companion device' will not likely have Intel chips. Intel needs to look for another THING. And if they do, the new thing will not be compatible with what we have. A new hardware architecture is needed for the consumer market. You're out of touch..that's all i'll offer.Quote from: patio on September 19, 2011, 07:18:06 PM You're out of touch..that's all i'll offer.OK, I can respond to that. My topic is "Windows and the World taking ARMS." The point is the shift away from powerful silicon for common people. And I predicted the doom of Intel. Well, I can be fair. Let's have a few words from Intel. Here is a video and a recent paper about the future. The near future. In fact, anybody who is "in touch" with the industry should go get a job at Intel. They are asking for help. Now. Really! Here is the Intel link: Job Openings: Tablets and Smartphones and Handhelds - Oh my! I officially give up...anyone else is welcome to jump in here...So, quoting blog comments/posts constitutes "proof" now, does it? All it proves is some people like to stir the pot and run around proclaiming "It's the END!" Which is hardly news. Waiting for the ARM revolution is tough, guys! We all need some spiritual assistance in times like this which are taxing on our emotional and mental health! LETS Sing with Gusto! Here we go, boys: Kum bay ya, my LORD, kum bay ya; Kum bay ya, my Lord, kum bay ya; Kum bay ya, my Lord, kum bay ya, O Lord, kum bay ya. Someone's laughing, Lord, kum bay ya; Someone's laughing, Lord, kum bay ya; Someone's laughing, Lord, kum bay ya, O Lord, kum bay ya. Hear me crying, Lord, kum bay ya; Hear me crying, Lord, kum bay ya; Hear me crying, Lord, kum bay ya, O Lord, kum bay ya. Someone's crying, Lord, kum bay ya; Someone's crying, Lord, kum bay ya; Someone's crying, Lord, kum bay ya, O Lord, kum bay ya. Hear me singing, Lord, kum bay ya; Hear me singing, Lord, kum bay ya; Hear me singing, Lord, kum bay ya, O Lord, kum bay ya. Someone's praying, Lord, kum bay ya; Someone's praying, Lord, kum bay ya; Someone's praying, Lord, kum bay ya, O Lord, kum bay ya. Hear me praying, Lord, kum bay ya; Hear me praying, Lord, kum bay ya; Hear me praying, Lord, kum bay ya, O Lord, kum bay ya. Someone's singing, Lord, kum bay ya; Someone's singing, Lord, kum bay ya; Someone's singing, Lord, kum bay ya, O Lord, kum bay ya. Oh, I need you, Lord, kum bay ya; Oh, I need you, Lord, kum bay ya; Oh, I need you, Lord, kum bay ya, O Lord, kum bay ya. Keep repeating, boys! Before you know it we will all have ARMS! Get the team morale up and put a grin on your face! Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 19, 2011, 07:50:52 PM And I predicted the doom of Intel. Doom? Not likely. If things do move another way, Intel will likely move that way as well. Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 19, 2011, 03:54:40 PM Our current hardware will be in mothballs in 18 months. That's pretty much the way it is now anyway. Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 19, 2011, 05:51:48 PM A new hardware architecture is needed for the consumer market. And any good company will move in that direction. Posting an Intel blog on job opportunities is hardly compelling proof. Looks like they're just jumping on the gadget bandwagon like a lot of other companies are. Hardware news or not, this belongs in the news section, not the hardware section. This section is for issues people are having with hardware. Whatever issues you may have aside, this doesn't belong here.Well, if yo' gonna be like that! Quote Technology TraderGood night! AMD is delivering more performance VS price in the lower-end category of desktop processors, and I wish it would do something with the Turion X2...Almost all of the articles you refer to are talking only about tablet and mobile devices. More than one of those articles states this isn't a market that Intel currently competes in. ARM has a ways to go before it comes out with a processor that can compete (processing-power wise) with Intel and AMD in desktop and laptop systems. While there might be a boom in mobile and tablet devices, neither laptops nor desktops will be fading soon. I believe something similar was said about DAT, SACD, DVD Audio, video phones, SMART appliances, VR games, WebTV, Mac clones, DRM, paper-free workplaces, Windows Vista... and we've all seen how those turned out. |
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| 20803. |
Solve : Overheating issue? |
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Answer» Hi, |
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| 20804. |
Solve : Problem Upgrading RAM? |
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Answer» I'm upgrading a video card for a family member and I'm having problems. I could but I'd really like to know why it's not working. =X Sorry, wish I could ANSWER that. As far as I can tell, there should be no problem, but there obviously is and I'm baffled.http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3/M4A785TDM_EVO/#MSL The memory support list is on here. Maybe your particular model of G.SKILL RAM isn't supported, but I highly doubt that... I have an idea! With the working RAM, reset your CMOS, then go into your BIOS and manually set the Command Rate of the DRAM to 2T.You could try borrowing another PSU to fire up the new set of upgrades. Worth noting even though it was suggested your current power supply meets the requirements. Remove also CMOS battery to reset any changes and boot up with minimum hardware. Trial and error... |
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| 20805. |
Solve : HDD partition? |
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Answer» hi everyone... i just want to ask if possible to partition my HDD drive without reformating it....? if possible please help me how to do it... |
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| 20806. |
Solve : cpu voltage error? |
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Answer» hi I have a p5w DH deluxe hi I have a p5w DH deluxeCPU is not on the support list for that motherboard. However: Needs BIOS update. P5W DH DELUXE BIOS 3001 Fix Cpu Vcore voltage may not be changed with Wolfdale CPU http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/Intel_Socket_775/P5W_DH_Deluxe/#downloadQuote CPU is not on the support list for that motherboard. yes it is... thelink you gave me shows it right in your face. LGA775 socket for Intel Core2 Duo as for the bios update... will it work for windows 7 Quote from: Slayer666 on June 21, 2011, 05:49:37 PM yes it is... thelink you gave me shows it right in your face.I searched entire page for E7600, not there; but should be good to go after BIOS flash. BIOS is independent of OS. Don't know how you will flash BIOS if it hangs & won't complete POST. You may have to use a different CPU just to perform the flash update. You may have to contact Asus for a BIOS chip or BOARD exchange.your right Computer_Commando, sorry... man i THOUGHT i saw the processor i guess not. I keep getting this error when i try to install 7 0x80070570 ...i figure after the install i can update the bios but my cd won't work and i got it from the store *censored* could it be the wrong processor that maybe giving me this issue Thanks i change the cpu to the right one till i update my bios. Everything is pk for that problem now . Thanks yes, I will do, thanks for sharing.Quote from: pridkiki on December 07, 2011, 06:55:50 AM yes, I will do, thanks for sharing.You do realize that this post is almost six months old?probably pre-spamSeen ENOUGH... Topic Closed. |
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| 20807. |
Solve : Is DDR2 an excellent memory?? |
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Answer» Hello Guys, Hello Guys,Well, in computers, the motherboard determines WHETHER DDR2 or DDR3 is supported. In other words, the consumer needs to buy memory that is compatible with their system; they can't just arbitrarily decide on DDR2 or DDR3. So, your question SEEMS a bit SILLY. Quote Is DDR2 an excellent memory for automotive and industrial Cars and factories? What?? DD2 RAM is a commodity item. This is like asking "Should I buy 5000 tons of bricks?" or "Should I buy 10000 automobile batteries?" The only answer is "Yes, if you can get them cheap enough and you know how and where to sell them to make a profit, otherwise NO." I think that a person who knew these things would not be asking such a question on such a forum as this. I would advise your cousin to think carefully whether he is about to be ripped off or waste a lot of his money. It is possible to be offered re-marked reject RAM or even fake stuff from China. I smell something...I am so sorry If my question does not make a sense..Actually my cousin is going to deal in RAM that's why i put up the question .It was misunderstanding for me ..i could not post the question in right way because my cousin told me that he is going to sign for contract..I thought that he singed the contract..He recommended for the question..Where as i know he is just making a plan for DEALING in RAM..He is going to deal in bulk for RAM..I wouldn't deal in RAM. The price of technology is dropping too fast and there are too many competitors these days with good quality at low prices. |
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| 20808. |
Solve : Benchmarking? |
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Answer» Hello. My friend and I are putting our custom rigs to the test in a COLD, hard benchmark test. I don't think there is really an all in one to do everything that list has. Most just focus on CPU, memory, graphics, and hard drive speed. (PassMark will do this http://www.passmark.com/products/pt.htm) Thankls for the reply, I figured that some of these weren;t benchmarkable in a conventional sense. I did assume the non benchmarkable THINGS would be overlooked in that list, but I should have made it more clear than this: Quote Now some of these arent measurable in a scientific way, and others, such as motherboard expandability are based on opinion and discussion. (connectivity refers only to whether or not that type of connectivity exists, and the specifics of each, rather than the actual speed). I appreciate the suggestion though. Ill def check passmark out! Thanks, Diatech PassMark is a fine TOOL... |
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| 20809. |
Solve : Computer Mother Board Replace? |
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Answer» I have a 5 YEAR old e Machine that the MOTHER board went bad. I ordered a new board from from GEEKS.com . |
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| 20810. |
Solve : Trying to unscrew risers under heatsink.? |
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Answer» Alright, so I have my old motherboard here. I took it out of the case and I'm trying to unscrew these weird risers that are AROUND the cpu, they were under the heatsink when I unscrewed that out. |
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| 20811. |
Solve : computer is slow? |
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Answer» even though I defragment regularly. I've seen registry cleaners, and things like that, I've seen for sale online. Which products do you recommend?1) DO NOT USE REGISTRY CLEANERS. They CAUSE problems, they do not cure them. It's fairly standard for your upload bandwidth to be slower than your download bandwidth, this is to prevent people from running commercial servers from a home connection. Oh I see, I'm also wondering about slow upload bandwidth, thanks for the clarification. Back in the topic, have you tried using SpeedUpMyPC? the free program also offered on the speedtest site? I'm just wondering if it's useful or notUtilities that claim to speed up your system are universally useless and potentially harmful (especially those that "clean" your registry and / or update drivers). They are not recommended.isps only sell packages based on ideal conditions , like a sunny day on the hiway with light traffic , not traffic JAMS and slowdowns . isps also reserve the right to throttle your speed based on network usage , based on the idea it is BETTER to keep everyone moving at a slower speed than have network come to a COMPLETE halt. also the only third party software you really need to keep computer running good is a good anti-virus program and MAYBE anti -malware/spyware. if you use the tools that come with windows { any version } on a regular basis , that should be enough to keep computer running fast . most third party tools do the same thing as ms tools but actually do it worse. { jazzier interface is about all you get } |
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| 20812. |
Solve : Pentium 4 vs. Low end Intel duo core.?? |
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Answer» I would like to settle something which i've been doing a lot of research on. The Pentiums specs would suggest that it has a higher output however I've used a few Pentiums before and they have seemed to be a lot worse than the intels ive used. Ive also heard that pentiums work better for gaming but the only way to really find out the best one for you is to try them? But i would go with intel. Just to clarify a point for you - Pentium is Intel. Your statement makes it sound like they are two completely different things.Quote from: patio on December 10, 2011, 10:36:39 AM Wha? Master of the obvious again? You Da Man....! How's tricks ? ?Doing good, pretty edgy lately though. I'm trying to quit smoking, the problem is that putting a patch on in the morning isn't quite as satisfying as the first smoke of the day.Quitting smoking is easy... I've done it hundreds of times.Hehe, wasn't that Mark TWAIN?Nice catch...! |
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| 20813. |
Solve : New Processor? |
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Answer» Hi! Apparently some Phenom IIs are AM2+. AMD released the Socket AM2+ version of Phenom II in December 2008, and Socket AM3 versions were released in February 2009. Ok. put it this way: I've READ about diffrent sockets. I don't understand them fully. If/When I change my processor, I'll let a computershop do it for me, but I STILL need to find the PARTS *somewhat* on my own. I'm familiar with computers software. Hardware... not so much. Please tell me: Will a Phenom processor work? and Can I use it on a new mobo in say... 1=>2yrs? If the PhenomII doesn't work, please say so, I don't REALLY get all those sockets. (Sorry for my lack of knowledge in this area.)1. Your motherboard has an AM2 socket. 2. You can put a Phenom II x4 AM3 processor in your socket. 3. You may need to flash your BIOS and your PSU may not be rated highly enough. 4. Most of these OEM systems by Dell, Packard Bell, Acer, etc are not really designed for processor upgrade. 5. You may need a new motherboard. 6. Better to sell the system as it is and buy all new parts. Thank you Salmon Trout for your simple and direct answer! Thank all of you for your help! I'll go on and speak to the people in the computershop, to figure the last couple of things out. |
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| 20814. |
Solve : HOW TO BUILD A PC? |
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Answer» Hi am planning to build a pc |
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| 20815. |
Solve : Upgrading my PC? |
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Answer» These are my current Hardware specs:
I use Photoshop and some new games. and it's HARD to use the pc at all. The CPU is at 100% from the start to the end. I thought of migrating to AMD because there are 6-core processors at cheap rates. Intel is pretty expensive. I saw a processor with 6 cores and I know that I have to buy a new motherboard.(AM3) Is that all? If I'm upgrading to an AMD, should I CHANGE all my RAM/GPU/HDD and other components too? And is it really profitable to upgrade to an AMD instead of a Intel quad core ?Personaly I would stay with Intel as you can get a good CPU for your MOBO see here for compatible CPUs http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=3500 Also I would think about up-grading your ram to at least DDR2 800, see here for compatibility http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Memory/motherboard_memory_ga-g41m-es2l.pdfWell, thank you for your reply. But it's not quite what I wanted as an answer. I wanted to know about transferring to AMD and it's compatibility with the current parts am havingQuote from: thezanny on December 08, 2011, 01:55:12 AM The CPU is at 100% from the start to the end. Where are you seeing this? Task manager? What operating system are you using? What virus protection apps do you have installed?yes, Task Manager. I use Windows 7 Ultimate SP1 and I use Eset Smart Security 5 If you switch to an AMD processor, you're also looking at a new motherboard, probably new RAM too. Your HDD, Graphics, DVD drives, case, power supply - you should be able to keep them without issue. I would check Newegg.com or somewhere similar for a combo deal. Sometimes they pair motherboard/processors together so you don't have to guess. DDR3 RAM is also on newer motherboards, and that does run very nicely. I have a GT240 - and that seems to still work pretty well. When I upgraded my motherboard and processor/RAM, I did NOTICE a much better performance with that card. A lot less lag and smoother transition. You can get an AMD board and still use Nvidia fine. The upgrade would probably cost you around $200-250 depending on what you go with.Like JJ 3000 said, you need to find out what is making your system perform so poorly. Before you spend a lot of money, do some diagnostics to find out if your OS has a virus nor has a bad file system.I did a Full Scan with Eset, latest updates. No viruses found. In task manager, what application/process is using the most CPU? definately something is running { i had similar 100% cpu usage and it was a cell phone software } that is taking too much cpu time. before upgrading { and possibly have same problem } let the guys help you find out why your cpu is so busy. i don't know win7 , so not much help from me but i do know hardware and your problem sounds like software. |
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| 20816. |
Solve : Heat sink? |
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Answer» How do i KNOW if my heat sink is deformed or not working properly? |
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| 20817. |
Solve : Secondary Slave Hard Disk Error on Acer desktop PC? |
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Answer» Hey guys, Yes, something abnormal must have happened. When I went to bed the PC was running an AutoIt script which should have kept the PC occupied all night (taking screen shots of a Flash application intermittently), but we I woke up, the PC was powered down.Hmmm... Somebody must have sneaked in your ROOM then if that's the case. There is nothing magical once you found out it was swapped places. |
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| 20818. |
Solve : Computer for radio broadcasting station? |
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Answer» Your help will be highly appreaciated, |
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| 20819. |
Solve : Custom built PC - Help? |
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Answer» So a month ago i built a new PC and it worked fine. I then moved houses, ~1000kms away, and had a removalist send all my stuff to the new place (it was bubble wrapped/packed up tight). After 2-3 days i ended up plugging in my computer yet it didnt work. For some reason it does not pick up any monitor, every monitor i plug in it just says 'no signal'. The monitor is fine because i TRIED it on my laptop and it worked. I unplugged the graphics card, and tried the monitor with onboard graphics, and still 'no signal'. There is no beeping what so ever. I then unplugged everything except motherboard, cpu and RAM and it still said no signal (no hdds etc). I then decided to replace the RAM with some faulty RAM to see if it would beep like it usually would. But for some reason it doesnt even pick up the faulty RAM? Is the POST test not completing? Due to being new in this AREA, i do not have any other computers that i can test my hardware in. Any help would be appreciated! It really sounds like a CPU issue to me-when i try booting without a CPU installed there is no response at all. That's a bit like finding a dead person and saying "This guy must have had a heart attack because when my uncle had a heart attack he went all cold and lifeless just like this." Ok, will do as above tomorrow! Thank you for the replies =]Quote from: Salmon Trout on September 18, 2011, 04:33:11 AM That's a bit like finding a dead person and saying "This guy must have had a heart attack because when my uncle had a heart attack he went all cold and lifeless just like this." Well, I reasoned that if the CPU was up and working there would at least be some beeps.Quote from: Transfusion on September 18, 2011, 04:38:30 AM
Not if the motherboard is damaged in about a zillion different possible ways. There is no damage to the motherboard, or CPU. EDIT: so i took out the CPU and tried to BOOT...it did the same thing, no beeps or anything.Can you put the CPU into another computer and see if it works? I'm afraid that's the only way you'll be able to rule out the CPU. If possible please do the same with the other parts...Ok after removing/doing a little clean then reinserting the CPU it now boots and does 1 beep. It always did the 1 beep when it worked, after a few seconds of turning it on, it would beep once then the screen would load. It also now recognises peripherals such as my mouse, as it lights up unlike before. But still no signal =/ EDIT: IT WORKS! YAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY! Thank you so much guys =]]] |
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| 20820. |
Solve : New computer build? |
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Answer» Heya say i am building a new system and i would like some feedback on what you like about this so far and what you do like, suggestions and other welcomed. Everybody builds a really fast computer, and then puts a wireless NIC in it. I don't understand why you want to go with a slower connection.Well, seeing as cable internet, which is the fastest internet package available from China Telecom over here, is max SPEED 40 Mbps and the average 802.11 B/G WiFi max speed is 54Mbps, it is still the cable internet that's the bottleneck, not the WiFi. Unless you have an internet connection like this fine dame over here (40 Gbps!!!! )http://www.voodish.co.uk/articles/fastest-broadband/ WiFi will not cause a slowdown if compared with traditional ethernet.heya. sounds good. i just RECENTLY built my own gaming rig, and went AMD myself. i was just wonderin tho, how did you take the picture in teh first post? i would really like to give a similar pic in my post but dont know how. thanks. Quote from: Berenost on September 16, 2011, 11:25:35 AM how did you take the picture in teh first post? i would really like to give a similar pic in my post but dont know how. thanks. That is a screenshot of a webpage. you can use this program: http://getgreenshot.org/ to do so.Nah i just emailed myself the cart from Newegg (to save it) then i just pressed F11 and screen capped it and uploaded it to photobucket. And the reason why i have a Wireless adapter is when i DONT have a cable connection.....i will ALWAYS try to have a cable connection but that would be stupid if i didnt. But i will be moving around a little in the further and i am not sure if i will be able to have a wired connection or not. as well as it comes in handy if one of my buddies needs it.Quote from: Quantos on September 15, 2011, 08:21:09 PM Everybody builds a really fast computer, and then puts a wireless NIC in it. I don't understand why you want to go with a slower connection. Well, for one THING, it's not slower. The common standard is 100mbps networking. gigabit ethernet is becoming common but a lot of people just use cat5 cables with that so you only get 10/100 speed (10/100/1000 requires a Cat 5e or Cat 6 cable). Wireless-N has a theoretical Max of 300mbps, which is well above any non-commercial downstream internet. That, and it's wireless, and in many situations it can be desirable or even necessary to have fewer cables. to make an ANALOGY- it doesn't matter how fast your car is, the speed limit isn't higher for Ferrari's or something.Here is one that will melt your melon, i cannot choose which card that i want, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130593 or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121432 And tell me why you think so |
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| 20821. |
Solve : usb switches of PC? |
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Answer» I WANT to know how to connect all the USB SWITCHES in the motherboard.Instructions should be in the MBoard manual...thank u. now i knowAnytime...Welcome ABOARD. |
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| 20822. |
Solve : Problems with DVD drive? |
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Answer» I recently found that my PC would not play Cd's and DVDs. Tried various options LIKE searching for new updated drivers, using different players from normal WMP, like real player etc. but nothing worked so bought external liteon eNAU608 drive. Tried connecting thru all 6 usb PORTS and with both usb CONNECTORS provided. No luck. Smartpack utility says no optical devices detected. Can anybody help pls? Have sent an email to liteon yesterday but yet to receive reply.have got both cables in at same timeGo to "control panel/system/device manager/cd/dvd drives" and remove all devices listed. Shut down computer and restart. Might be advisable initially to do this process with your external unplugged unless you absolutely know why the internal failed. If doing this process with the external does NOT resolve the issue do it again with the external plugged in (preferably to a rear USB port).What is your OPERATING system? In device manager when you are there are there any yellow symbols on anything? truenorth |
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| 20823. |
Solve : Saying Hello and Asking if this is the right place for my Q's? |
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Answer» Hello, |
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| 20824. |
Solve : Is this good?? |
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Answer» CPU: Intel® Core™ i5-2500K 3.30 GHz 6M Intel Smart Cache LGA1155 |
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| 20825. |
Solve : 'compressed-air-in-a-can' cleaning proceedure for laptop?? |
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Answer» I plan to shut down my HP Compaq 6715b laptop in ORDER to blow the dust out of it. (it runs 24/7 running Folding at Home assignments). I know that when blowing out my DESKTOP's I always secure the cooling fan so as not to over-rev the fan motor when using compressed AIR. But desktop fans are easy to access. Is there a way to secure the cooling fan on my laptop while cleaning other than disassembly?Avoid aiming RIGHT at the fan. USE short busts rather that a long blast.Q-Tips...Got it done. I had forgotten how easy it is to remove the keyboard on this machine (3 screws and 4 lock tabs) . With it removed access to the fan is easy. A q-tip works fine for preventing the fan blade from spinning. |
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| 20826. |
Solve : Question About Max RAM? |
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Answer» Just purchased an Acer Aspire x1900 with Windows 7 64 bit which I have not received yet. It comes with 3 GB of RAM but I want to upgrade. I was looking on one website and it recommends a 8GB (two 4GB sticks) upgrade. However when checking on the Acer website under system memory it had a bullet point which says max 2 GB per slot with a total of 4GB. It then had another bullet point that said "Upgrade option with two unbuffered DIMM slots." Can someone explain what "Upgrade option with two unbuffered DIMM slots" means. Will it indeed support 8GB? Is this some factory option that my computer may or may not come with? Thanks in advance for your response. Travel to crucial.com and run the online scanner... Thanks for the advice patio, but as I mentioned I haven't received the computer yet. I just ordered it today so I should have it in about a week. I'm trying to FIGURE out what RAM to get now so that I can order it and have it here when the computer arrives. However crucial.com is the site that said I could use 8GB when I looked up the model. But that still leaves my original question...and maybe a couple more. Anybody ever heard of "upgrade option with two unbuffered DIMM slots?" Or anybody heard of being able to successfully use more RAM than the recommended specs? Or anybody heard of a program that allows you to utilize more RAM than the normal specs?http://www.ehow.com/facts_6893990_difference-buffered-non_buffered-computer-ram_.html Unbuffered RAM is what is used in normal computers, buffered is used in servers. Putting more RAM in than the motherboard's limit will cause the motherboard to fail to post...Quote from: Transfusion on September 17, 2011, 03:56:49 AM Unbuffered RAM is what is used in normal computers, buffered is used in servers.the proper term for "buffered" RAM is ECC. ECC memory is of course used in servers and for other applications where data INTEGRITY is of the utmost importance. The downside is that ECC RAM will be about 30% slower than non-ECC RAM. Quote Putting more RAM in than the motherboard's limit will cause the motherboard to fail to post...Not necessarily. Sometimes it just won't recognize the memory beyond it's limit. It depends on the motherboard design, though. The Aspite x1900 according to the information I found maxes out at 8GB of Memory. Crucial sells kits for that particular upgrade. Quote Or anybody heard of being able to successfully use more RAM than the recommended specs?No. They aren't "recommended specs" they are a inherent limitation of the design of the motherboard. Quote Or anybody heard of a program that allows you to utilize more RAM than the normal specs?Yes. Early on (say mid 80's) you could upgrade the 1MB of a IBM PC to higher amounts of memory by installing Expanded memory, which was managed by an EMS driver and programs aware of Expanded memory could access it. However, today, No. No such programs exist. More to the point, however- no such programs are necessary, because the way all modern operating systems work involves using a page file and "virtual" memory, which oversimplified basically means that when the computer needs to use more RAM and there isn't any physical memory AVAILABLE it swaps some used physical memory to the swap file and uses the now free memory. |
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| 20827. |
Solve : Router Connections? |
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Answer» I currently have my cable router connected to my desktop computer and then from computer to wireless router. I very seldom use the desktop. Is there any way I can connect the cable router directly to the wireless router so I don't need the desktop? If so, how would I do it?Are you saying that you have two routers? If the wireless capable router has an ETHERNET JACK on it then you should be ABLE to connect both machines to the one router.For the cable that goes from your cable modem to your computer, TRY disconnecting the end going to your computer and connect it to the WAN on the wireless router. This will bypass your computer. If you want your computer to still have internet, you'll need to run a LAN cable from an available port on the wireless router or modem, to the computer. |
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| 20828. |
Solve : how do i clean my notebook keyboard?? |
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Answer» i GUESS using a can of COMPRESSED air would prob be he best betYes, compressed air is certainly an option. Alternatively, you could use a cotton bud, or even a clean cloth would do the trick. where is the best place online to get canned air? i HEARD newegg is good where is the best place online to get canned air? i heard newegg is good That's not up to me to make that decision, you'll just have to look around and try to get the best price. yeah those kind of life death decisions are not to be taken lightly anyone with steel magnolias know of any places online to get cheap air?What I meant was, it's up to you as to where you get the compressed air from, it really depends on how much you're willing to spend. But you said that your local Staples has some? Surely that would be the sensible option? like i said after shipping it comes to the same price as amazon i would like to find it someplace cheaper i am a computer tech and go through alot of the stuffebay isa good place to get compressed air umm i seen one a few weeks ago , it was like 4 cans of 400ml for £10 + about £5 in p&P In that case, you'll just have to have a look around for a good price. I'll have a look round later and see what I can find for you. yeah i guess you cant beat ebay i DONT do ebay(or paypal)though |
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| 20829. |
Solve : Help me build (a old PC?)? |
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Answer» OK. My friend brought me a bunch of parts from where he WORKS.. first of all, I'd definitely go with the motherboard with the intel pentium. They both have "intel pentiums" don't they? Quote from: Salmon Trout on June 27, 2010, 02:27:50 AM They both have "intel pentiums" don't they? Yes they are both "Intel Pentium" Processors. But if you are mentioning this due to my inability to put "Intel" in front of "Pentium" for the second motherboard, you are really getting annoying by constantly correcting my way of Speaking/Typing.Quote from: BluerjB on June 27, 2010, 03:55:34 AM Yes they are both "Intel Pentium" Processors. But if you are mentioning this due to my inability to put "Intel" in front of "Pentium" for the second motherboard, you are really getting annoying by constantly correcting my way of Speaking/Typing. My comment was directed at 2x3i5x, not you, He wrote "I would go for the one with the Intel Pentium. Since they both have Intel Pentiums, it didn't make a lot of sense. Lighten up. Quote from: Salmon Trout on June 27, 2010, 03:59:45 AM My comment was directed at 2x3i5x, not you, He wrote "I would go for the one with the Intel Pentium. Since they both have Intel Pentiums, it didn't make a lot of sense. Lighten up. ohh ok... sorry, you've just been on my case... but he probably meant the Intel motherboard. Sorry againQuote from: BluerjB on June 27, 2010, 04:15:06 AM ohh ok... sorry, you've just been on my case... but he probably meant the Intel motherboard. Sorry again yes, I meant the motherboard with the intel pentium 4 processor. use that. Quote from: 2x3i5x on June 27, 2010, 10:35:19 PM yes, I meant the motherboard with the intel pentium 4 processor. use that. 2x3i5x , you forget the fact that both of the motherboars have intel pentium 4 processors..Quote from: BluerjB on June 28, 2010, 02:01:20 AM 2x3i5x , you forget the fact that both of the motherboars have intel pentium 4 processors.. you accidentally put "2" on the "ABIT" one, I think, but clearly there is no Pentium 2 (or even a P3) that is anywhere close to 2.8Ghz. personally, I'd look up the specs of each motherboard, and see which one is better- hard to tell at this point but you may be able to use either processor in either board (which means the 3.0ghz one is a shoe in) and even if not, .2 ghz may be a WORTHY sacrifice if the ABIT has better features: Let's compare: the ABIT: Chipset: Intel 865PE Compatible Processors: Intel Pentium 4 Front Side Bus Speed:800 MHz Video Interface: AGP 8x Storage Controller Type(s): Serial ATA x 2, DMA/ATA-100 (Ultra) x 2 Integrated Input/Output Ports: USB 2.0 x 8 • Serial Port x 1 • RJ45 Lan Port x 1 • PS/2 Mouse x 1 • PS/2 Keyboard x 1 • Parallel Port (ECP/EPP/SPP) x 1 • FLOPPY Port x 1 Expansion Slots: PCI x 5 • AGP Pro x 1 South Bridge Chip: Intel ICH5R Socket Type: Socket 478 Max supported CPUs qty 1 Memory Type: DDR SDRAM Number of Memory Slots: 4 x 184 Pin DIMMs Supported RAM speeds: 400 MHz Max Supported RAM : 4 GB Audio Output: Sound Card Integrated Audio AC97 Audio Codec Audio Input Microphone Jack • 1 x Line In Other Features: Hyper Thread Technology Ready • Dual Channel Memory Architecture Release Date : 6 September, 2003 Chipset:Intel 915 G Compatible Processors Intel Pentium 4, Intel Celeron D Front Side Bus Speed: 800 MHz Storage Controller Type(s) :DMA/ATA-100 (Ultra) x 1, Serial ATA x 4 Integrated Input/Output Ports :USB 2.0 x 8 • Serial Port x 1 • RJ45 Lan Port x 1 • PS/2 Mouse x 1 • PS/2 Keyboard x 1 • Parallel Port (ECP/EPP/SPP) x 1 • Floppy Port x 1 Expansion Slots: PCI Express x16 x 1 • PCI x 4 • PCI Express x1 x 2 South Bridge Chip Intel ICH6 Socket Type:Socket LGA775 Memory Memory Type: What is "Memory Type"? DDR SDRAM Number of Memory Slots: 4 x 184 Pin DIMMs Supported RAM speeds: 400 MHz • 333 MHz Max Supported RAM: 4 GB Audio / Video Audio Output What is "Audio Output"? Line Out Integrated Audio Realtek ALC860 Audio Input Microphone Jack • 1 x Line In Video Out Ports 15 Pin D-Sub VGA port x 1 On Board Graphic Processor Intel Graphics Media Accelerator 900 Communication Networking Type Ethernet, Fast Ethernet Fans 1 x 4-pin fan headers • 3 x 4-pin fan headers They are pretty similar, but the Intel board uses Socket 775, which I believe is far more recent. (I believe the P4 northwood, which is more recent then the Willamette die, is a 775 processor. I'd definitely go with the Intel board and it's processor. the rest of the components should work with it just fine. You ave four memory slots in either board so you will probably only be able to put in 1.5GB of the RAM you acquired (the two 512's and two 256's). As 2x3i5x noted, you should put them in adjoining banks. usually slot 0 and slot 1 make up a bank, slot 2 and 3, etc. try to make sure each bank has the same size of memory. Quote from: BC_Programmer on June 28, 2010, 05:31:16 AM ...They are pretty similar, but the Intel board uses Socket 775, which I believe is far more recent. (I believe the P4 northwood, which is more recent then the Willamette die, is a 775 processor...You are correct. Socket LGA775 replaced Socket 478; cpu's are not interchangeable. LGA775 has better heat dissipation than the 478. LGA775 is still in use by some of the Core 2's. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_775Quote from: BC_Programmer on June 28, 2010, 05:31:16 AM you accidentally put "2" on the "ABIT" one, I think, but clearly there is no Pentium 2 (or even a P3) that is anywhere close to 2.8Ghz. ok that works... thank you... and just so you guys know this isnt a computer im gonna use.. its just something i cant make and use for misic and other things... my actual computer is posted on the SBCC forum... hope you watch it...haha thanks again |
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| 20830. |
Solve : Everythings stopped working!? |
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Answer» My pc just DIED on me, all the POWER went and when i'd try to turn it on it would power up for a few seconds and then die again. You might want to try a new power supply I agree.As in just a new lead from the plug to the pc??This is a power supply. |
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| 20831. |
Solve : BSoD even when swapping over HD to a USB to retrieve data??? |
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Answer» My apologies firstly, as I admit to joining the forum because I have a problem that I require help with, which does seem selfish for my first post I know. |
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| 20832. |
Solve : Hp compaq nc 6000 on but shut within 5-6sec? |
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Answer» My hp compaq nc6000 will on but shut down with 5-6 secs after RESTING for a micro SEC it will pick up and do thesame thing (shut down) continously.fan is working but no display on the screen and ram TESTED ok. |
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| 20833. |
Solve : Computer will not boot up? |
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Answer» Dear Forum, |
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| 20834. |
Solve : Compag Notebook problems? |
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Answer» Hi there..., I own a notebook Compaq Presario running under Windows Vista Home Premium. There is no audio nor sound present. The CD/DVD drive suddenly stopped functioning. I tried to configure this system to go on the INTERNET, without result. Next I copied and pasted drivers for above MENTIONED devices. Now it suddenly does not want to start, not even boot up. It shows no BIOS either. What could be the PROBLEM here?Drivers can't be copy /pasted...double clik them to run the installer and see if that helps...QUOTE from: patio on June 28, 2010, 02:30:40 PM Drivers can't be copy /pasted...double clik them to run the installer and see if that helps... i DINT think he'll be able to do that if he's computer wont even boot up... |
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| 20835. |
Solve : Hard Drive Status Bad?? |
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Answer» Hello all, me again. So, this 6-year-old Sony Vaio I have is acting up again it seems, though I think it might just about be ready to keel over, anyway here's what goin' on. but having been in fine condition (According to the SMART thing or w/e) beforehand, I'm still a bit skeptical as to whether it's actually dying or not. One often sees this "it worked all right before, so it can't be broken now" line of thought very often about hard drives. Oddly enough, people don't apply it to light bulbs, they just change them. SMART monitors the hard drive for errors signals when the number has reached a threshold. and The most basic information that SMART provides is the SMART status. It provides only two values: "threshold not exceeded" and "threshold exceeded". Often these are represented as "drive OK" or "drive fail" respectively. A "threshold exceeded" value is intended to indicate that there is a relatively high probability that the drive will not be able to honour its specification in the future – that is, the drive is "about to fail". The predicted failure may be catastrophic or may be something as subtle as the inability to write to certain sectors, or perhaps slower performance than the manufacturer's declared minimum. The drive might work for a long time. It might fail next week. But you can't say you haven't been warned, and you'd be kind of dumb to trust it with really valuable data. So go with Allan's advice. It is absolutely on the button. Hm. Good logic there. I've already backed everything up, so I'm not worried about that much more. However, would ''inability to write certain sectors'' have to do with my firefox being unable to open up? It was working fine, obviously, before the HDD started dying, and when I tried to install a program to create an image for all my stuff on my computer (namely XP, which I have no discs for, save OEM Recovery discs), it gave me a ''Hardware I/O'' error, and couldn't continue the installation process. Am I right in assuming that the error is also related to the HDD beginning to fail?Yes, of course.Aww, *censored*. Alright, thanks a lot for your help you two. ^^ Guess I'll work on gettin' a new hard drive then. Much appreciated. |
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| 20836. |
Solve : Fan running Super fast? |
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Answer» Hi I have a Dell DIMENTION 8400 fan that is running super fast when I start up the computer. I think its the cpu fan, Its right next to the POWER SUPPLY and has a heat sink looking thing next to it, anyway running windows xp on it 4 gb ram, Never seen this problem before on any computer. Any ideas thanks....You should clean the computer out with a can of compressed AIR, it's probably pretty DUSTY in there. |
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| 20837. |
Solve : My computer keeps crashing? |
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Answer» Hello folks first time posting. I've been running into some problems with my computer and I'm hoping you guys might be point me in the right direction. As the title states my computer keeps crashing. The vast majority of the time about five minutes into a game. Which game I'm on it doesn't matter, the screen will lock up and then it goes down. Sometimes it will make an awful noise. I've even gotten blue screened while browsing the internet. I've got up to date bios and drivers. thank you for goods. Huh whaaa.....?SPAM post removed...Crap, and I can't edit my post. |
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| 20838. |
Solve : Building First Computer? |
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Answer» I was hoping to get advice on what computer build I should try for. The current ones I'm deciding on are a $400 budget one, $500 budget one, and a $600 budget one.. |
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| 20839. |
Solve : TALKS/JAWS? |
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Answer» Hi friends, Windows comes with a basic screen reader called Narrator, which READS text on the screen aloud and describes some events (such as an error message appearing) that happen while you're using the computer.This kind of software .i.e talks/jaws helps the visually impaired to operate and understand their works on pc.if you call it narrator i think is STILL thesame.So,where can i visit to download it.i've tried nuance but their own was not compatibleDragon is quite popular as a solution as well. I know that the C.N.I.B. offers the package to those who need it in Canada for free, there may be a local organization that will do the same.Nara tor is a feature in most windows Operating Systems. In is found in the irascibility section. I have used it quite a bit. Here is a commercial company with wide range of products - for a price. priducts for independant living Good list of other sites Computer Aids for the Visually Impaired |
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| 20840. |
Solve : HDD Problem? |
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Answer» all u have to do is UNSCREW it and put a new one in.. right? but u ALSO agree that a PCB BOARD switch would make it work?Only if it's from an identical drive and the same manuf. batch lot #.... |
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| 20841. |
Solve : hp dc5800 small form factor? |
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Answer» this is a business desktop that came with 1 gb of memory.i purchased a 4 gb set of chips,2 single 2 gb chips.it will start up and run with a single 2gb chip but windows won't start when i put the other 2gb chip in.this has xp pro 32 bit and will take up to 8 gb.i read that it will take up to 4 gb with the 32 bit os and i don't know where to get the 64 bit os.this has 4 memory slots,channel a has the primary black slot that has to be filled then a white slot,channel B has a black slot in the 3rd slot and the 4th slot is white in channel b. its a dual CORE processor Quote from: rwalton311 on December 02, 2011, 12:40:28 PM this is a business desktop that came with 1 gb of memory.i purchased a 4 gb set of chips,2 single 2 gb chips.it will start up and run with a single 2gb chip but windows won't start when i put the other 2gb chip in.this has xp pro 32 bit and will take up to 8 gb.i read that it will take up to 4 gb with the 32 bit os and i don't know where to get the 64 bit os.this has 4 memory slots,channel a has the primary black slot that has to be filled then a white slot,channel b has a black slot in the 3rd slot and the 4th slot is white in channel b. its a dual core processor Windows will generally only recognize 3GB or 3.5GB with a 32 bit version. This should not cause the system to stop booting ... Try swapping all the RAM aboutSounds like the motherboard can take the RAM and Windows should recognize as much as possible on 32-bit. The ram size should not be an issue. Make sure if there are different colored slots that you are matching the same colors. If they are not in the right memory banks, they will not work. Also, test one RAM at a time to make sure you don't have a BAD one. A 64-bit operating system is available in Windows XP, Windows 7, and Windows Vista - you'd just have to look around for a copy. 64-bit OS will help your processor out a bit and help you recognize all of the RAM. Sounds like your processor can handle it. Using a 32-bit OS with 4GB of ram is not bad though, and you shouldn't have to worry about getting a 64-bit OS unless you want to go past the 4GB.Also, I noticed the HP DC5800 comes in a slim form factor, and also a mini-tower form factor. You may have your specs mixed up and they could have put different capibilities in the slim model that do not match what the tower can handle. Quote from: Darthgumby on December 09, 2011, 09:14:17 AM Also, I noticed the HP DC5800 comes in a slim form factor, and also a mini-tower form factor. You may have your specs mixed up and they could have put different capibilities in the slim model that do not match what the tower can handle. Use the crucial online system scanner tool while on that PC http://crucial.com See what it reports the MAX ram as They haven't returned... Just a heads up. |
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| 20842. |
Solve : Nvidia Geforce GTX 580 vs ATI Radeon 6970?? |
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Answer» Which one of these cards WOULD you say is more powerful or better value for money? I have tried to look for some comparisons on the internet but cannot find anything.Visit TOMS Hardware site...Quote from: patio on December 12, 2011, 05:43:14 PM Visit Toms Hardware site... I looked on that site but what I need to know is what ati Radeon cards are equal to the Geforce cards I have listed below. I can then go and compare them. Thankyou! Geforce 580GTx Geforce 570Gtx Geforce 460Gtxhttp://www.hwcompare.com/ ALLOWS you to compare the specs of any GPU currently on the market. |
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| 20843. |
Solve : Choosing a Graphics Card? |
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Answer» Well I'm a newbie to computer gaming, and I'm looking to upgrade my comp a bit, for casual gaming. Games like Minecraft, EVE Online, Fallout: NV... but nothing like Crysis 2 or Battlefeild. And I need a bit of help picking a good card that fits my needs, that isn't 500 bucks. (Ill be saving my xmas money) |
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| 20844. |
Solve : Temp Issue or Video Card?? |
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Answer» Quote from: BluerjB on JUNE 27, 2010, 03:43:13 AM Dang JJ what a Sharp eye you got .. I would have never seen that haha.. I had the same issued before.. ended up killing my Motherboard.. That is probably due to his CPU cooler which isnt working well.. The most usual cause of burst capacitors is that they were low quality. A big problem with Abit and MSI MOTHERBOARDS a few years ago was traced to them buying supplies from a company who had stolen a formula for electrolyte and copied it wrongly. Other causes may be just simply poor quality control. Or a suspect PSU. The Gigabyte M57SLI-S4 motherboard used solid capacitors, and was among the better models. I doubt it is the CPU cooler. As I said before, it is not at all clear that the CPU is overheating. Quote from: BluerjB on June 27, 2010, 03:45:45 AM But after that i did tell the poster to check if the liquid is still there.. But "idk" is just a typing habbit... If the liquid is gone, the system will fry, not just get a bit unstable after 15 mins. Quote from: Salmon Trout on June 27, 2010, 03:58:33 AM If the liquid is gone, the system will fry, not just get a bit unstable after 15 mins. true... but somehow my computer did fry when that happened to me.. after cleaning dust out of the pc i for got to plug in the CPU cooler but LUCKILY i didnt use the computer for half the day... i just noticed it because i baught a new videocard that day and had to open the case again the my face was like this *censored*?!?!I just thought... I don't know where the OP is located, but just now in Western Europe we are having a heatwave. The temperature here in England is expected to hit 30 C today. Inside my house it is 24.5 right now at 11:30 AM. That sux for you i guess i have the A/C on haha.. I'm sorry I was snippy before. Hey everyone, thanks for all the replies! I'm guessing the capacitors are those round plug things on the left side? (I'm sorry, sorry, sorry - I'm not too bright with this stuff) I did go and check inside the computer again and saw 3 of those were rusted/burnt-looking lol So thank you for catching that JJ - I wouldn't have had a clue unless I took it to a repair shop and they caught it. My question now is: what would be the easier thing to do? Buy a new motherboard like BluerJB suggested? Or replace the capacitors? - And if you could point me in the direction of where to buy either of these, I'd really, really appreciate it. I'm beginning to think it's not the cooling system myself as I haven't had any issues with the computer crashing/shutting down on its own like I had with a previous liquid cooling system where the coolant just sort of evaporated. The computer shut down then never started back up again. I also have no idea how to check to see how much coolant is inside the cooling system I have now - if this is important for me to do, I'd love it if someone could instruct me on how to do that. Thanks so much everyone! I'm SOOOO sorry for being kind of clueless about all of this. *Edit: I'm opting to just replace the motherboard lol Hopefully this fixes my problem! But if anyone has anymore suggestions for me, please go ahead and shoot them my way!For what a shop would charge to replace those capacitors (this should not be tried at home ) your probably better off with a new board... However all things considered ultimately only you can make this call...Quote from: Gemini6 on June 27, 2010, 11:15:28 AM ...My question now is: what would be the easier thing to do? Buy a new motherboard like BluerJB suggested? Or replace the capacitors? - And if you could point me in the direction of where to buy either of these, I'd really, really appreciate it...Depends on how good your soldering and de-soldering skills are. Electrolytic caps are probably $2-3/ea from http://www.digikey.com/. So about $10 in parts. I have no idea what a shop would charge to replace them; probably more than a new motherboard costs.Better than average skills at soldering are needed for doing any repairs on a MBoard...Quote from: patio on June 27, 2010, 04:56:10 PM Better than average skills at soldering are needed for doing any repairs on a MBoard...Getting them out & clearing the thru-holes is the hard part. You can almost cut them out & then remove the remains. Installing the new ones is easy. Big caps are pretty easy to remove; only 2 leads and something big to grab hold of. Just have to be careful you don't lift a trace in the process of removal.If Gemini6 was not sure what capacitors were, I think it's a safe bet they have never done any soldering.Quote from: rthompson80819 on June 27, 2010, 06:45:33 PM If Gemini6 was not sure what capacitors were, I think it's a safe bet they have never done any soldering. lol Indeed But I am just going to get a new motherboard and have a friend of mine do the actual "job" for me... I'm terrified of computers so yea, no soldering lol I'm just hoping those capacitors are the problem and I don't replace the motherboard only to end up destroying it again by whatever is the problem lol Thanks again everyone!Quote from: Gemini6 on June 27, 2010, 06:59:10 PM lol IndeedJJ nailed it: Bad caps, 100%. |
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| 20845. |
Solve : Optimizing For Gaming, Should I upgrade my computer or just buy a new one?? |
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Answer» So with some great looking games coming out soon, and a some I currently play, I realize my computer doesn't push for more details, colors and graphics. Often I play a game and I need to lower the graphics and details to the lowest to avoid lag. A great looking game is coming out next year and I want to play it to its full potential, So I WONDER what do I need for my computer to make it work great or do I just need to get a new one, my computer is not that bad or old, i believe it's just the video card and processor that might be outdated, which I don't know much about. I also want to know if making the switch from Vista to WINDOWS 7 makes that much of a difference. Let me know what you think and the price for parts to upgrade and see whether it's worth the upgrade or to just buy a new one. |
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| 20846. |
Solve : Computer won't stay on for more than a few seconds.? |
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Answer» So my computer was running a bit slow all day today, I didn't THINK much of it because it's not the most up to date computer. Anyway, I shut the computer down when I left for the night and when I came back not FIVE hours later and tried to turn it on the computer shut down on itself. I thought it wasn't a big deal because for about the past half a year in order to turn the computer on I had to hit the power button then the restart button three times, if I didn't do this it would shut down I would have to hit the restart button a couple times and then turn the power on and hit the restart button again. But I once I tried doing this nothing different happened. The computer turned on, made a noise and then shut itself back down. And I wasn't even able to get it STARTING any more. So I hit the power switch on the power supply waited for a moment till I heard a beep, I assume the beep is my power supply shutting down. So once it does that I turn it back on and it just starts to turn on for a few seconds and then shuts down again and I have to repeat this. I've also tried waiting several minutes before turning it back on. |
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| 20847. |
Solve : New Gaming Rig HDD Question? |
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Answer» i recently built a new gaming rig: |
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| 20848. |
Solve : What is my actual connection speed?? |
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Answer» This is on my HP COMPAQ 6715b laptop listed in my specs running Vista Business 64 bit.. Speeds up to 18 Mbps. I'm using a Belkin F7D2301 wireless 802.11n router capable of 300 Mbps. My wireless adapter, factory installed in this laptop, is 802.11a/b/g/n Broadcom WLAN module. When I go to Control Panel/Network and Sharing Center and click on 'view status' it says "speed" = 243.0 Mbps. On new-speedtest.com it says: Download speed: 6752 kbps (844 KB/sec transfer speed) Upload speed:462 kbps (57.8 KB/sec transfer speed) So are the numbers given in the speed test my actual connection speed? IMHO, there is no point in getting a 300 Mbps "n" router if your internet connection is 18 Mbps (unless you play LAN games, etc.) Usually the advertised speeds are the download speeds. According to the speed test, you are getting 6.7 Mbps download speed. Not even half of the "18 Mbps" the ISP claims. Try using speedtest.net and select the nearest speed test server from your LOCATION.Depends on the level of service you are paying for. Are you actually paying for 18Mbps service? How fast will a cable modem download and upload data? Speeds will depend on the service level to which you subscribe. The asymmetric cable modem scheme is the most common type of cable network setup, and will allow for a faster transmission rate (higher bandwidth) on the downstream data path than the upstream data path. This network set up works well since most cable modem users download more information than they send. For example, downloading web pages and MULTIMEDIA files and participating in newsgroups requires much more bandwidth than SENDING web page requests or e-mail. For comparison, our base level of service downloads at 1.5 Mb per second, which averages at about 180 Kilobytes per second. Compare that to a telephone modem which downloads at about 7 Kilobytes per second. Would you rather drive at 55 miles an hour or 7 miles an hour? Quote from: Transfusion on September 16, 2011, 04:54:50 AM IMHO, there is no point in getting a 300 Mbps "n" router if your internet connection is 18 Mbps (unless you play LAN games, etc.)Originally I bought the "n" router to reach from my house to my barn which my Lynksys WRT54G "g" router would not reach. I also figured the "n" may be a little better for transfering large (photo, video ect.) files between the computers within my LAN. And, of course, it was only ~$40 from Walmart. Quote from: Transfusion Try using speedtest.net and select the nearest speed test server from your location.speedtest.net shows about the same speeds with the closest test server in Memphis TN ~ 50 miles away: Ping = 65ms Download = 6.60 Mbps Upload = 0.48 Mbps ----------------- Quote from: Transfusion Usually the advertised speeds are the download speeds. According to the speed test, you are getting 6.7 Mbps download speed. Not even half of the "18 Mbps" the ISP claims. Quote from: Computer_Commando Depends on the level of service you are paying for. Are you actually paying for 18Mbps service? Bingo. I called my ISP and found out the service I'm paying for (cable tv, internet and house phone) includes 7Mbps connection speed. Their 10Mbps package is $20 per month more, and their 18Mbps package is not available in this area (I'm in a fairly rural location). I'm not interested in upgrading because 7Mbps is fine for what I do online. And my monthly bill is already ~$120. Anyway, now I know and I THANK you both for your help! |
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Solve : HDD Disaster? |
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Answer» Samsung 500GB 7200rpm SATA 3Gb/s the sound coming from my HDD is kinda different, like a strange clicking sound. Classic sign of disk failure. Quote from: geek hoodlum on December 12, 2011, 07:11:37 PM Are there any possible solution to fix my Samsung HDD? You cannot "repair" a failed drive. That is why having proper backups of important data is critical. Quote There are tools, such as SpinRite that might be able to fix your drive long enough for you to get the data you need, but yes most likely recycle that drive. Personally I avoid any products affiliated with it's author like the plague. But I guess even a stopped clock appears to be working twice a day.Avoid SpinRite. Edit: T there is FREE software out there to help you. But it is not magic. If your drive has major failures, you can not really fix it. The kink below provides information and some free items. If a drive is usable, the programs they have will do a good job to r recovery and repair. If the drive still works. http://www.easeus.com/ You can not repair a major crash with software. To illustrate. Even tho a flat tire is flat just on the bottom, if it has a big hole in the sidewall, putting more air in it does not provide a temporary fix. Same idea with a hard drive. The drive must be 90% usable before you and fix it. Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 13, 2011, 01:47:00 AM The drive must be 90% usable before you and fix it. Wha??? How would you know if it's 90% usable? Like... write random data to the drive and 90 times out of a 100 the data verifies correctly...? And the verification must only occur in the presence of me....? http://www.easeus.com/datarecoverywizard/free-data-recovery-software.htm#1 It claims it marks bad sectors before attempting data recovery... but you still wouldn't be able to recover the data on the bad sectors.Quote from: Transfusion on December 13, 2011, 06:14:34 AM Wha??? How would you know if it's 90% usable? If 90% of the drive clusters are not marked as "bad", I guess. IMO any drive that has bad sectors needs to have any and all important data copied off of it IMMEDIATELY. I speak from experience (and I would hope, common sense). They simply are no longer reliable. If you are lucky, the cause of the "bad sectors" was in fact due to a flakey PSU causing issues during the read cycle that were interpreted as a problem reading some unlucky portion of the disk, and can be "re-checked" and marked good. On the other hand, you cannot, to my understanding, force the drive to recheck those sectors that it remapped to a spare sector through it's firmware, only those marked by software. Which is sort of the issue; by the time you are able to see bad sectors, from fsck or chkdsk, the drive has already run out of sectors to remap itself and the I/O error has started to bubble up to the file-system level. Of course the topic isn't with regard to a drive with bad sectors, but rather one that is no longer detectable by the system. If one is lucky in that situation, they can simply swap the logic board with one from a working drive of the same brand and model. However, the changed acoustic properties of the drive seem to indicate that it is, to use the technical term, screwed.Quote from: Transfusion on December 13, 2011, 06:14:34 AM Wha??? How would you know if it's 90% usable? Like... write random data to the drive and 90 times out of a 100 the data verifies correctly...?Please do not take that literally to mean 90 % of the sectors have to be good. I meant that the drive has to have most of its ability. It must be more the 90%, more like 99.7% But if I said that, somebody will say "How do you know it is exactly 99.7%" I thought that by saying 90% it was understand to mean having most of its important ability. The intent was to use terms a layman would grasp. Drive failure is more that just X numbers of bad sectors. Drive failure can be divided up into about ten categories. Now are you going to ask me "Is it exactly ten." The failure of HDD is not due to PSU problems Quote It claims it marks bad sectors before attempting data recovery... but you still wouldn't be able to recover the data on the bad sectors.Wrong! Mechanical, physical damage to the head is either fatal or soon will be. The electronics in the drive can go sour and it can fail to read data. There is no cure for ICs that are at the end of life. They might recover after cooling, but they do not self-heal. All the data recovery tools attempt to make the best of a bad condition. . Bad sectors are due to defects in manufacturing. The defects are not apparent during early treating. In time the defect becomes worse and the drive system flags the spot as an area that needs to be moved. And yes, the bad sector can be read reliably and its data moved to another area. Whether or not the sector becomes worse does not matter nonce it has been flagged. Maybe it will get worse. maybe not. but it will no longer be used. The exact algorithm for this and the parameters are proprietary to the hardware / software makers. Don't even try to second guess. If they wanted you to knew, they would tell you. So I can't tell you either. But it works better that you may THINK it does. I did not want this to be a lecture non modern drive technology. The point is that the technology is very sophisticated and usually takes care of itself. The S.M.A.R.T. works good about half the time. Which is much better than nothing. If the drive only has some bad sectors, and no other problem, it is possible to restore the drive back to good heath and reset the monitoring system. But this is not something amateurs ought to do, except as a hobby. Formatting a drive with then right tools may restore a drive to almost new condition. Windows Check Disk does a fair job. The dive manufacturers have tools you can also use. But you have to read the instructions, not guess. More specifically, if a chuck of the oxide comes off and is n flying around inside the chamber, the drive is going to start failing very fast.Any attempt to read the whole drive will just shorten its life and reduce the opportunity to recover vital data. It depends. A few bad sectors are not a problem. But if severe damage has been done to the head or the surface, mapping bad sectors is a waste of time. Quote from: BC_Programmer on December 13, 2011, 01:42:05 AM You cannot "repair" a failed drive. That is why having proper backups of important data is critical. I personally don't use it either, but I was making a point if he needed data their are software utilities that might help him.Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 13, 2011, 08:13:36 AM Bad sectors are due to defects in manufacturing. The defects are not apparent during early treating. In time the defect becomes worse and the drive system flags the spot as an area that needs to be moved. And yes, the bad sector can be read reliably and its data moved to another area. Whether or not the sector becomes worse does not matter nonce it has been flagged. Maybe it will get worse. maybe not. but it will no longer be used. The exact algorithm for this and the parameters are proprietary to the hardware / software makers. All Hard drives ship with defective sectors. The drive itself remaps them to spare sectors, at which point the original sector location's condition is irrelevant. However, the original sector can still be perfectly fine. a aberrant power fluctuation from the PSU could easily cause the drive logic to make an assumption about where it is reading that is no longer valid; or undervoltage of the read head during a critical decoding stage could cause the drive to read a CRC error. The tolerance of the drive for what is and is not an acceptable number of retries varies, but when you have a PSU that simply hooks the 5v rail to PWR_GOOD, problems like that are inevitable. Also, the algorithms used for Hard Drive sector remapping are rather well documented. P-Sector remapping and G-List remapping. I doubt HD manufacturers would use anything different, given that their behaviour in these situations (bad sector remapping) is altogether consistent. Quote The S.M.A.R.T. works good about half the time.Self-Monitoring And Reporting Technology is utterly useless for it's intended purpose. The purpose being, of course, to warn when a disk is failing. But it doesn't work. The various numbers that it keeps track of could easily be skewed as a result of environmental factors; when S.M.A.R.T sets off a warning, it basically means some number approached some other number. you can't easily get at the numbers to find out what set it off, and it doesn't matter which value hits the tolerance, the drive is simply reporting by most System BIOS's as a S.M.A.R.T failure on the drive. More to the point, S.M.A.R.T, aside from having the number of firmware-remapped sectors as one of it's magic numbers, doesn't help prevent bad sectors, or disk failures; prime example being the Samsung drive of the Original Poster which by all appearances has failed. Quote If the drive only has some bad sectors, and no other problem, it is possible to restore the drive back to good heath and reset the monitoring system. But this is not something amateurs ought to do, except as a hobby. If you want to reset smart data, you either don't get what smart is about, or you have bad intentions- such as trying to reset the S.M.A.R.T data for values like "Hours Run" and "Spin-ups" in ORDER to sell the drive as "new". And resetting the values for remapped sectors only changes the value for the S.M.A.R.T reporting... it doesn't actually make changes to the P-List and G-List and remove the mappings. Either way, the problem with S.M.A.R.T is that the tolerances are set differently for all different drives, and oftentimes they are given utterly stupid values. Some Maxtor Drives report "impending Drive failure" (fail SMART) simply by being spun-up a set number of times. This despite there being no evidence to suggest that the number of times a drive has spun up is in any way related to the frequency with which a drive fails. Quote Formatting a drive with then right tools may restore a drive to almost new condition.Formatting a drive can never return a drive to "almost new" condition. Even if you get some special tool to reset the S.M.A.R.T values and reformat the drive- like say, flashing a newer firmware, which can sometimes reset accumulated S.M.A.R.T values as a side-effect- it will merely mean that S.M.A.R.T reporting for that drive is even more useless because the values it actually stores in no way reflect the drive. Remapped sectors will still exist, but unless the drive has to remap more after the values are reset, it will still report the value as 0; and either way the value will be off by whatever number of remapped sectors there were before. Quote Windows Check Disk does a fair job.Of doing what? Windows Chkdsk checks the File-System structure, and can perform a surface scan which attempts to locate bad sectors. If chkdsk is reporting bad sectors at all- the drive is basically screwed. chkdsk can report that there aren't any bad sectors when in fact there are because the drive will have remapped them. This is invisible to any software and the only software-visible way to figure if there are remapped sectors would be to investigate the S.M.A.R.T fields. Of course if you reset that data then even that won't work, and either way software cannot determine what sectors are remapped and which ones aren't, it's just a count. A chkdsk surface scan can make the drive remap bad sectors itself, though, when they are accessed. (which is a good thing, better to remap bad sectors earlier rather than later) Quote mapping bad sectors is a waste of time.Tell that the the manufacturers that have been incorporating P-List and G-List sector remapping within their firmware and ASIC's for almost 20 years.To all reading this. BC knows programming. He knows very little about hard drive technology, other than what he reads in comic books. Quote All Hard drives ship with defective sectors.false Quote Also, the algorithms used for Hard Drive sector remapping are rather well documentedfalse Quote aberrant power fluctuation from the PSU could easily cause the drive logicfalse. It is extremely rare. Quote Of doing what? Windows Chkdsk checks the File-System structure, and can perform a surface scan which attempts to locate bad sectors. If chkdsk is reporting bad sectors at all- the drive isfalse. How do you think you know what it does? Geek should get a warning for the amount of rubbish he posts. His above effort is nonsense. Each of his points answering a remark of BC_P's is a complete howler. Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 13, 2011, 12:03:01 PM To all reading this. BC knows programming. He knows very little about hard drive technology, other than what he reads in comic books.Funny. Quote QuoteThis is common knowledge. It has always been true. With MFM/RLL drives, the defective sectors would actually be listed On the drive, since that was before Sector remapping was put into use (since it was Before IDE and the common usage of ASIC chips, making it so the circuitry for such functionality would take up too much real estate). Once ASIC chips became cheaper and IDE was conceived and established, they looked to the problem of factory defects and how they can help. The solution was to simply PACKAGE the drives with spare sectors, and have it remap them, in a way that is invisible to the Operating System. The number of pre-existing bad sectors per Megabyte has decreased by a LARGE margin thanks to new manufacturing techniques, but hard drive size has also skyrocketed so for the most part there will be at least a half dozen or so bad blocks that need to be remapped. Manufacturers will sometimes run the hard disks through QA (to remap the existing defects) and reset the S.M.A.R.T fields so that it shows none remapped. This isn't that dishonest though since they typically will decrement the tolerance value for the field as well. This is why sometimes you can get two of the exact same model hard drive that have different "Max allowed" values for their S.M.A.R.T fields. Essentially they allow the remapping and pretend that the drive came with fewer spare sectors.All Hard drives ship with defective sectors.false Quote Quotehttp://www.mjm.co.uk/sectorremapping.htmlAlso, the algorithms used for Hard Drive sector remapping are rather well documentedfalse Quote So... err.. "That doesn't happen. It's rare" How is that not a contradiction of terms? And you are seriously suggesting that the hard drive, despite running on electrical power from the power supply both the 5v for the logic board and the 12 volts for the spindle motor, is somehow immune to abberations from bad power supplies or power supplies that continue to send Power_Good to the machine even when the power is not good? Not to mention that power fluctuations on the logic board can cause bit decay in the same manner that insufficient power to System memory will; and if that happens to occur while the logic board is reading or writing data, a CRC error can easily occur as it finds that the data it has in memory has changed. Anecdotally, I have two hard drives that in my older machine were working quite well- until I added a third Hard drive to the configuration. Drives would disappear at random intervals, and very shortly after changing the configuration they all started to fail the S.M.A.R.T diag the BIOS performed at boot-up, and I would have to chkdsk /r at least once a week to fix hard freezes. Once I replaced the hard drive, all these issues went away. I was able to chkdsk /b and re-evaluate bad clusters at the file-system level and Suddenly the system decided they were no longer bad. I wasn't able to "unmap" the P or G-Lists, obviously. Best I would have been able to achieve was resetting the SMART data. I imagine hard drive manufacturers have internal software they might have that can deal with those particulars. But I don't think any are available to the public. Quote QuoteWindows Chkdsk checks the File-System structure, and can perform a surface scan which attempts to locate bad sectorsHow do you think you know what it does? I know it works on the file system level. chkdsk, like format, calls into fmifs.dll (Format Manager for Installable File Systems, presumably) It exports a number of functions, such as Chkdsk, ChkdskEx, Format and FormatEx; this can be confirmed quite simply with a quick dumpbin /exports. FMIFS itself, some might assume, is where you might think at this point that FMIFS is where the file system on-disk structure knowledge is located. That is not the case. FMIFS, as it's name suggests, is more or less a stub program for a set of installable File-Systems. For Most windows installations, this means FAT and NTFS. The logic for FMIFS to deal with these two filesystems is contained in ufat.dll and untfs.dll, located in the windows system32 directory. FMIFS itself, as can be viewed using dumpbin /disasm on it, mostly consists of epilog code, prolog code, and setting up and acquiring handles to DLLs and Function addresses (the installable file system drivers are enumerated from the registry). Appropriate calls to FMIFS.dll's various functions is essentially taking the string argument passed to it's function, taking U on the front and .DLL on the end, calling LoadLibrary() using the created string, and then attempting to use GetProcAddress() to acquire pointers to the function it will call, either the chkdsk or format functions, as needed,and there is error handling, of course. This is all easily confirmable by viewing the dissassembly, even if it is hardly an easy parse. the installable file system drivers- UFAT and UNTFS in this case- are the portions that actually "know" about the On-disk FAT and NTFS layout, so that the system can perform consistency checking or formatting operations. UNTFS and UFAT (and I believe UXFAT, or something similar for the ExFat System, presumably) are the DLLs that actually read/write from the disk during chkdsk and format operations. They in fact open the device directly and read/write clusters themselves; this, again, is quite easily confirmed via any number of Application tracing tools. Since UNTFS and UFAT deal only at the file-system level, and all reads/writes done during a chkdsk are done by those dlls, it stands to reason that the disk check is at the file-system level. your dismissal of the topic was so quick, you left it vacant of any actual information. Anyway, the obvious purpose of this heirarchy, which is well-documented in several SysInternals Articles, blog entries, and the like, is to make it easy for MS to add new file system types to the system without having to write custom versions of the file-system management tools. They simply write a DLL for the new file system type and make the management tools (specifically, FMIFS.DLL, and even explorer for it's format dialog) aware of the new format name. This can be seen in action with the installable Device Driver for ExFat on Windows XP systems, which make use of this capability. Add to this the fact that chkdskx, a sysinternals tool that exactly duplicates the functionality of chkdsk (quite literally, the two are indistinguishable) is Open Source, I think it's a fair bet to say, particularly based on your attempt at ad hominem that I "know programming" that I, and really anybody, can know how it works by perusing that source. By the way, the source can be found here. The actual source was ripped from SysInternals sites back when MS acquired them, but there are quite a few mirror sites. |
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Solve : Cell-shaped spots on monitor? |
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Answer» Hi, ... It looks almost like my monitor is being assimilated by the Borg....Resistance is Futile. |
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