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Hi All,
My laptop was working fine UNTILL yesterday. I put it for charging entire night yesterday and morning today and while I am starting it, I am getting following error message

For Realtek RTL8139(X)/8130/810X PCI Fast Ethernet Controller v2.12 (010817)
PXE-E61: Media test failure, check cable
PXE-M0F: Exiting PXE ROM

I didn't do anything with the cable / hardware. I am not sure what happened.. I went to Bios and the hard drive is showing None.

Please help me. I don't have a bootable CD either and that is causing a complete stoppage of my work. please help.You don't have any restore CD's for that laptop ? ?

The error messages you are SEEING aren't good news by any chance...

More info on your machine OS etc. etc. etc. and someone will be along shortly.The hard drive is not being recognized AND the machine is trying to boot from a network adapter which is not present.

Free diagnostics for the hard drive are available at the manufacturer's site, BUT if it is not being seen in the BIOS that will have to be rectified first. Make sure the drive is firmly SEATED. You didn't bother to post any details about the machine so we cannot proceed further.

Your turn. See below.Hello,
My machine is TOSHIBA satellite 2435-S255. It's an Intel pentium 4 processor 2.4 GHZ , 512 MB ROM, 40 GB HDD machine.
Can I get the bootable CDs from Toshiba website? Please let me know.
Thanks.It would be best to know what kind of hard drive, but the Seatools at the Seagate site should work. Toshiba will likely NOT have what you need.

I believe that model has a LOT of heat related ISSUES. Would you agree?

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Turning off a running computer can corrupt the files that are running. This is permanent damage to the files that frequently requires a WINDOWS reinstall. If you don't have a Windows installation CD you should probably be shopping for one.

But the thing is if I create another account it WORKS FIE but this one doesn't.

Ok I am confused I can help you with the software (its just hardware that gives me headachs)

What exactly happens? do you mean that nothing appears to be installed... or there is nothing on your desktop, when there was before?

*Edit* Two things to try one is Spinrite if you can afford it or have otherways to get it (friends and such) or you can attempt check disk to use check disk start up your computer and login then click start and left click on "My Computer" then right click on the drive that windows is installed on ( most likely C:\ )
choose "Properties" from the drop down menu then left click on the tools tab there should be an option called "Check Now" left click on that and check both options in the following window (with left clicks) then left click start and then restart your computer I hope this makes sense.

I have a few Hard Drives that are locked and i do not have the PASSWORDS Is thier any way i can unlock them even if it loses all the DATA on it, it WONT matter please someone help IVE been searchin for monthsHow were they locked ? ?The only problem I can see is if they are locked up.Quote

The only problem I can see is if they are locked up.

Hello I'm really really new to this and I'm not a computer expert at all. D:

It's so sad. My POWERDVD programme is unable to play DVDs and the data in the disks doesn't show on the computer. I tried it with a COUPLE of other DVDs to confirm and I didn't work either. So, I wanted to know if a CD-RW drive (E:) is able to open DVDs because when I brought my computer to repair, the guy said my cd drive was spoilt so he changed it. I'm not sure what he did and everything, so...please help me out.

Thank you so much!!!sadly no, a CD-RW drive cannot open DVDs):

okay then, thanks for all your help all the same.Unless it actually has "DVD" printed on it somewhere, it probably doesn't play DVD's. Were you ever able to play DVD's on this computer before? What's the model of your COMUTER?"comuter" ? ?
Now you sound like ULWarrior...

Ha ha. Come on, even I am allowed a couple of typos every now and then!Some thing else that can USUALLY identify your drives capabilities (and much more) is the free utility PC Wizard ...donations accepted.
http://www.cpuid.com/pcwizard.php

The attachment shows typical analysis of an optical drive.

[cleaning up - attachment deleted by admin]

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Ill look at it harder next time, but booting is such a pain, id rather not do it now.

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Ill look at it harder next time, but booting is such a pain, id rather not do it now.

This statement is underwhelming.

Clicking a button or two with your mouse does not seem terribly taxing. Maybe this is why others have stopped responding to you.

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Ill look at it harder next time, but booting is such a pain, id rather not do it now.

This statement is underwhelming.

Clicking a button or two with your mouse does not seem terribly taxing. Maybe this is why others have stopped responding to you.

Hi Forum,

My Dell Dimension 4700 (Pentium 4, 300GHz, 1G RAM, Windows XP Home, ) displays various problems. Lately it just runs slower and slower as my session goes on. If I reboot, it "resets" and things are fine until it again slows and slows. Websites take forever to load. Previously it has been locking up, particularly when accessing web sites, and I would get a message saying "program not responding". I have run spyware and virus scans, and deleted all Cookies. The firewall is TURNED off. I have run a Windows Memory Diagnostic program, and it says the RAM is fine. I must reboot the computer, however to BEGIN the program. Since it runs OK at start-up, do you THINK the problem could still be RAM?

How do you remove it to swap it out? Are all of the chips on a card or in sockets, or do you have to unsolder?

Thank you!
Mike
What spyware and virus scans have you run?
Why do you have your firewall turned off?
Are you behind a router?
Although you have run a virus scans, have you used any external one as your virus protection could be compromised.
I use Trend Micro often http://housecall.trendmicro.com/
Also if you don't all ready Spybot search and destroy http://www.safer-networking.org/en/index.html

Ok now that is covered how many process are running when you hit Crtl-Alt Del, bottom left corner. Most optimized systems can get away with running around 30 or less so check that out also I have mine at 24 But I have seen a system with 72!!! you want to talk about a slow system.

Ok good luck!
HOPE something helps

**EDIT**
PS. there is one other thing you can check, see if your IDE controller is using DMA and not PIO.
Your saying what the heck is he talking about.... LOL
Go to your device manager * windows key and Pause/Break key* (a nice short cut)
Click on the hardware tab - click on device manager - click on the + sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI controlers - this will probably be different on every system but click on the controller device and right click properties. whew these are getting to be long post.
But click on the tab that says primary channel or click on one that has information on DMA/Transfere settings. If this is on PIO you need to change this to DMA.
Just something else to check on
Ok I am done and going to bed
GOOD LUCK
Till tomorrow You can download a free RAM tester at www.memtest86.com

Run each chip for 30 minutes by itself and then all together. You can run a preliminary scan with them both in.

Other problems could be heat and power supply problems. Blow out the dust while you're in there. Quote from: GX1_Man on May 25, 2007, 03:18:08 AM

Other problems could be heat and power supply problems. Blow out the dust while you're in there.

it seems I have a problem with my hdd I am not sure whats wrong I have run spinrite checkdisk and all that and no bad sectors found at all

but lets say I install a game like Ultima Online it will say a file was CORRUPT and did not match the file in the *.cab ok so I abort and restart and try the install again and this time same error message but a different file

I am about to try the seagates tool diagnostic for my drive (its a seagate drive) but so far no other diagnostic tool has found a problem (Oh and I have just reinstalled windows on it and windows and some other programs have no problem installing)ok no reported error with the controllers or anything of that nature gets through the QUICK test just fine and dandy but if I do the full test or file structure test it freezes the computer wont responde it happens on full test at 99% it seemsoh forgot computer specs

Pentium 4e dual core
Ram 2 gigs
the hard drive is a Seagate model ST3160022ACE 160 GBIs the Ultima Online CD a copy ? ?Did you diagnose the RAM?

Diagnose the memory (RAM) with the FOLLOWING program:

Windows Memory Diagnostic

This will require you to make a bootable diskette, the diagnostic program will do so for you.Thanks so much the other generic memory test I ran did not pick anything up but that one did. My ram was failing every single test so I pulled them out and tried one at a time and found the corrupted of the two. I have sent an rma request to the maker of my ram, I will get the bad one replaced.
Thanks again, I am glad I decided to run that test even though the other system memory tests returned everything fine and dandy. Now the installs work and no crc errors

(*censored* ram stick almost had me fooled into replacing a fully working hdd)There's another bad one, Raptor. Quote

Is the Ultima Online CD a copy ? ?

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Is the Ultima Online CD a copy ? ?

Thanks so much the other generic memory test I ran did not pick anything up but that one did. My ram was failing every single test so I pulled them out and tried one at a time and found the corrupted of the two. I have sent an rma request to the maker of my ram, I will get the bad one replaced.
Thanks again, I am glad I decided to run that test even though the other system memory tests returned everything fine and dandy. Now the installs work and no crc errors

(*censored* ram stick almost had me fooled into replacing a fully working hdd)

I have got up early to start building a newer computer. Hit problem in first 10 minutes. Screwed in m/Board. First connection power! I have a brand new PSU, the Atx Power has 20 pins (various rounds and squares) on the board it has 24 The board is an ATX so I dont understand. The board is a Intel Pentium4 925x. If I insert the lead into the board block starting at one end it fits perfectly as the shapes match. At the other end it won' t (of course). But if the various powers that are given are wrong, I will blow the board or other stuff - where do I go from here??
Gratefull for any guidance
KevinIt's probably an older PS if it has a 20-pin on it.
What is the make/model of this PS ?

There's an outside chance that it is a 20+4 connector.
In this case the main connector (20) sisters with a specific 4-pin conn. to create a 24-pin. Check the docs.

If you would post your rig specs we can point you to a reliable power supply.

There are many junk power supplies that await the unsuspecting and when they fail, they can take other components with them.Here... Here is a write-up on the differences between ATX 12V Ver1.3 and ATX 12V Ver 2.0 power supplies. If your psu does not have the extra 4-pin plug your system might work perfectly but ..... Then again you could use a 20 to 24 pin adaptor cable... My choice would be to change the psu if 24 pins are not available...

Good luckThankyou for your time. It is a new 'Colors it' 550 watt Golden silent.
As previous post, the tower case is an ATX The board is an ATX Intel Pent4 925x temporarily to set up with just 612 mb ram20 pins on the power connector from the PSU MEANS that the PSU is ATX. There is a newer PSU standard called ATX-2 which has 24 pins. ATX-2 has the 20 regular ATX pins plus 4 extra pins to supply the extra power that certain processors and display cards need. These pins are added to one end of the connector, after the regular 20 pins of the ATX standard connector. In fact some suppliers describe an ATX-2 connector as "20 + 4" pin rather than "24 pin".

If your hardware specs call for an ATX PSU then an ATX-2 PSU will do the job. The 20 pin ATX plug will mate correctly with the first 20 pins of your motherboard power header. The voltages will be correct but you need the extra pins if (say) you had a dual core CPU or a SLI 6800 Ultra display card.







Contrex,
You are making noises that I really wanted to hear :-). Can I interpret them as follows? I can plug the power lead into the matching block (which matches perfectly), Leaving the other four open? I thought myself this would be ok, but when I viewed the wiring diagram off the net http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/sup/partsMotherboard-c.html
the various powers and grounds were completely different? Perhaps with the result of blowing the thing to bits.
Thanks again for your timeScrewball, in what way is the diagram different from what you have? Are you talking about the wire colours? Not all manufacturers follow these conventions.

Which diagram are you talking about?




If you have viewed the site previously posted, I believe I am correct in reading that on the 20 pin diagram, the pins are radicaly different from the 'corresponding' pins on the 24 block i.e. on one 3.3 on the other ground etc. Hang on, I've just looked again - kindly disregard this post!!Quote from: screwball on May 27, 2007, 02:37:29 AM

Hang on, I've just looked again - kindly disregard this post!!

> If a mobo has an ATX2 connector, will an ATX PSU be ok or does the PSU have
> to be ATX2?

It should be OK if the PSU has a sufficiently GENEROUS +12V supply. Likewise a
PSU with an ATX2 connector will NOT be OK if the +12V isn't up to spec.

An ATX connector has the same pinout as the 20 pins at one end of the ATX2
connector, and they are intended to be compatible.

Run the KILL with wangming.Quote

Not for me...

I think it's hysterical that that link makes this 3 pages wide...

Absolutely.....IE 4 right ? ?

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Absolutely.....IE 4 right ? ?

Who needs Java or SSL anyway?

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Absolutely.....IE 4 right ? ?

Who needs Java or SSL anyway?

Many people need SSL. This includes all the home and business users who do any online banking, make credit card payments online, execute investment transactions online, buy stuff online, etc. But, Java and SSL do not seem to be problem areas with Firefox. What I've seen are quirks such as this non-wrapping of a long URL and the absence of vertical scrolling to display the bottom of a web page I recently mentioned in another thread.

I would agree this may attributable to web developers who do not thoroughly test their pages in various browsers.

[size=12][size=12]soon after I bought an OPTICAL mouse, I FOUND out that now there are LASER mouses.

Would a Logitech MX400 laser be noticeably better than an optical mouse [/size][/size] :questionAbout the same...BTW Logitech is just the best choice out there...Don't CUT through your desk with that laser mouse though. Sounds dangerous, indeed.

I'd rather just get an OPTICAL laser mouse.

By the way, I have a Logitech G7 and it is very good. Being able to have 3 custom DPI settings really HELPS. And yes, I do use them.

ill look AROUND for another power supply and let you know how it turns outQuote from: patio on May 26, 2007, 07:00:32 AM

I'd like to know how the PSU was tested and FOUND to be OK...

Quote from: patio on May 26, 2007, 07:00:32 AM

I'd like to know how the PSU was tested and found to be OK...

I doubt this way but I ordered mine from this guy and got it today
http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-ATX-Power-Supply-Tester-From-Apevia-20-or-24-Pin_W0QQitemZ140120729727QQihZ004QQcategoryZ44949QQcmdZViewItem
Great deal!
If you do a lot of PC bench work or service calls this is a must have.
Newegg also has them.

Quote from: TrapperX on May 26, 2007, 11:09:37 AM

Quote from: patio on May 26, 2007, 07:00:32 AM

I'd like to know how the PSU was tested and found to be OK...

I doubt this way but I ordered mine from this guy and got it today
http://cgi.ebay.com/LCD-ATX-Power-Supply-Tester-From-Apevia-20-or-24-Pin_W0QQitemZ140120729727QQihZ004QQcategoryZ44949QQcmdZViewItem
Great deal!
If you do a lot of PC bench work or service calls this is a must have.
Newegg also has them.

What does it do besides check voltage?

Quote from: TrapperX on May 27, 2007, 01:09:56 PM

What does it do besides check voltage?

It just puts a load on the power supply to check if the voltage is within the system parameters. What else would you want to check with a power supply?

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If you don't even get a POST screen (white writing on a black background) your PSU would be the 1st suspect.

I previously requested HELP under "Why is my computer not recognizing the dvd/cd in the drive?? HELP!" (with attachment)

I've been having trouble with read/write failures on one of my DVD drives. It has been INSTALLED and working for over two years. The two drives are on the secondary IDE channel and this one is jumpered as the slave. I discovered that the transfer mode was set for PIO some time back and changed it to DMA. It somehow changes back to PIO.

I discovered again today that it was at PIO. The drive now fails to see a disk in the drive.

I've restored to a previously "known good" set point, deleted the drive (including the IDE controller), deleted the drive in BIOS and reinstalled after a boot-up/shut-down. Device manager sees the drive. It just doesn't see a disk when one is installed. It attempts to read the disk. The led FLASHES but it returns a message to "Insert a disk". Is it possible that the drive just went belly-up?

Thanks for suggestions.

Have you tried the DVD drive as slave on the same RIBBON cable
your hard drive is on?No. I'll go under the hood tomorrow. I have a spare box I can try it in. Looks as tho' I need to perform a funeral at this point. Try it out before you have the funeral services. grubbyjeans,

Thanx for moving your post.
Did you try the suggestions i gave in your original post ? ?
If so wqhat were the results ? ?

I'd also try a brand new IDE cable...Quote from: patio on May 26, 2007, 07:23:16 AM

grubbyjeans,

Thanx for moving your post.
Did you try the suggestions i gave in your original post ? ?
If so wqhat were the results ? ?

I'd also try a brand new IDE cable...

Hello,

I bought a surge protector. The user guide says that it can be used only if the wiring is properly grounded in the APARTMENT otherwise it cannot protect against surges properly and the WARRANTY is no GOOD. A green light indicates this on the surge protector. When lit electrical wiring is properly grounded. I tried all the outlets in my apartment and the green light was never lit in any of them.

What are my options?

Is there a special surge protector which works properly in such conditions?

What happens if I still use my surge protector? I suppose it is still better to use it then not at all for protecting my computers, right? It is still better than nothing, isn't it?

Can an electrician FIX a problem like this? If yes does anyone have any idea what the cost could be for grounding the wiring?

Thanks,

Herringtrader

I did a web search on 'GFI breaker ' and you should
do some read up on this.

Rough-up the landlord a little,or see if they will DEDUCT some
rent for the fix.See the link below.

Note:I am not an electrician.I aggravate woodpeckers,
and grow landscape shrubbery.

http://www.helpinaflash.com//House-Projects/GFI-breaker-Install.cfm

I'am to lazy to buy a IDE cable with slots for 2 hard drives, So i was wondering is it possible to temporarily unplug my cd drive or my floppy drive and run the hard drive off those CABLES?CD yes, floppy no (different size being one of the problems!).

Be sure the Master-Slave JUMPERS are set correctly for what you want to do.Thanks for the response I'll let you know how the upgrade goes We'll keep the light on.Quote

I'am to lazy to buy a IDE cable with slots for 2 hard drives, So i was wondering is it possible to temporarily unplug my cd drive or my floppy drive and run the hard drive off those cables?

Quote

I'am to lazy to buy a IDE cable with slots for 2 hard drives, So i was wondering is it possible to temporarily unplug my cd drive or my floppy drive and run the hard drive off those cables?

If you're too lazy to do this maybe you shouldn't be adding any drives...

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Quote

I'am to lazy to buy a IDE cable with slots for 2 hard drives, So i was wondering is it possible to temporarily unplug my cd drive or my floppy drive and run the hard drive off those cables?

If you're too lazy to do this maybe you shouldn't be adding any drives...

Cut it out already...

Cheers many thanks for that works a treat

Go to sound options in Control Panel and set the default playback device back to your sound card
Most Internet phones set themselves to be the default sound device which is not normally what you want
Hope this helps

I did everything I could think of
I have a HP Pavilion a620n with AMD Athlon 3200+ model and it freezes every time I play a game.
I put in a new power supply now has 500 Watts
A new video card AGP ATI Radon X1650 Pro video card
I even put extra fans in to stop it from overheating even took off the case with a house fan blowing in it.
I did a memtest on it came up with zero errors.
My last idea is the harddrive but I'm not sure
I'm about to take a hammer and start hitting it to see if that works......



What do you mean by "freezes"?
Did it used to work?
What happened when it stopped working?
What OS do you have?
What games have you tried?
What protection do you have?It never worked. Anything media related only works for a bit then it stops everything and I can't pull up the Task Manger but I can turn it off and reboot it
It's Windows XP Home edition
Games I used
Battlefield 2
Stars wars Battlefield 2
Company of heroes
Black and white 2
The movies
Roller coaster tycoon 3
anything on the steam format
And Fable lost chapters
They all do the same thing only plays for a bit then everything stops.
Also This computer was stored in my basement becasue before it could not even boot up. And had to keep using my OLD computer got it around 2003 until just about a week ago the stupid thing was beyond repair would not even boot up maybe just because it was getting old.
I use Windows defender.
I also have registry mechanic.



You need an antivirus package too.
Check the FAQ sections for some good solutions and guides to remove malware, I bet you're infected if you don't have an AV program.
Do that first and clean your system, then if you still have problems we can proceed.Quote from: maddog_326 on May 25, 2007, 06:58:47 PM

It never worked.

Ok, usually when I'm doing things like surfing the net, or have a few files open, everything is ok. Then, whenever I try to play online games that take up alot of RAM or something (usually fullscreen), my laptop wants to go nuts. It gets overly hot, and I mean OVERLY hot, not like it used to when I played the same games back in the day, and I hear a little beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep sound coming from what i'm guessing is the middle of the laptop. Certain games like counter-srike want to drop to 4 frames per second, which is obviously unplayable, while other games want to do their version of that same thing (slowing or skipping and becoming unplayable). This only lasts for about 40 seconds before it goes back to normal, but it happens about every 4 minutes. These little 40 second screw up don't happen right when I start playing, but after a little while of gaming they'll just show up.

Now I know games like CS1.6 and the like aren't really meant for my laptop (low-end), but I've been able to play it reasonably well a LONG time ago, on the same laptop.

-Bkid

Specs in sig. \/Scan for viruses and spyware.

Clean your Windows installation.

No luck? Time for a reformat & Reinstall.

If the problem still occurs, it's hardware related and I suggest you make use of your warranty.

All of that and we know absolutely nothing about the machine, history, hardware, etc. Not even the manufacturer.

See below.Quote

All of that and we know absolutely nothing about the machine, history, hardware, etc. Not even the manufacturer.

See below.

Well my battery isn't on the list. Believe me, I've already checked that whole thing out. Though, my fan COULD use a good cleaning..How would I go about doing that? Do I need to open it up, or just clean it from the outside? Would something like canned air be appropriate to clean it with? Also, should I blow canned air into the heat sink in the back? Something to get this thing running a little better than it is now...

my os is win xp. i had to reformat recently, and now the error MESSAGE that pops up says:

There are no ACTIVE mixer devices available. To install mixer devices go to control panel, click add printers/new hardware, add hardware.

The PROBLEM is that i've tried to reinstall the drivers, and i can't get it to work. when i've looked at the device manager, the icon next to the video/sound area is a yellow question mark. also, when i've asked windows to find the hardware and install the drivers, it says that it can't. perhaps i'm doing something WRONG, so does anyone have any tips? could i get someone to map out what i'm supposed to do to fix this problem?

also, (this is a dumb question probably) but could it be that my card is just broken? the computer is about 4 years old...What sound card do you have?The actual card itself may have come UNSEATED...remove all power sources, open the case and re-seat the card. Do some housekeeping while in there using a can of compressed air to clean out all fans a/ heatsinks.
The drivers may be the incorrect ones if they won't install...are these the ones that came with the card ? ?
Lastly the card may have failed. To test it install it in a known working machine using the correct drivers...

Hi,
can ANYONE TELL me if my asrock939nf4g-sata2 1000fsb can support a 2000fsb cpu??

Rod :-/HTTP://www.asrock.com/ can advise you. No one ELSE KNOWS.

My computer is an Iqon Technologies desktop. It only has 258mb of Ram and is pretty slow so I want to add more memory. I ran the Crucial.com system scanner which came up with the following results:

Motherboard: GMate 8S651MP-RZ
CPU: Intel Celeron 2.66GHz model 3, stepping 4
CPU speed 2680 MHz
Maximum memory capacity: 2048mb
currently installed memory: 256mb

The current memory is DDR 333MHz CL2-5 PC2700U-25330.

I bought a 512mb memory stick made by PNY Technologies DDR 400MHz PC3200. According to Crucial this should be compatible with my system.

The first time I used the PC after fitting everything was fine, the computer's performance was much, much better. But the second time I turned it on it had stopped working. Although the computer will boot up, once it gets to the desktop it stops working. I can move the pointer AROUND but I can't select anything. Sometimes the pointer moves jerkily. When I REMOVED the new memory the computer was fine again. I tried the new memory in place of the old and removed the old altogether and the computer did the same thing, it would boot up to the desktop but then wouldn't work anymore. I thought this might be a problem with the memory stick and took it back to the shop who changed it for another new one but when I fitted that I had the same problem again. The PC is fine with the memory removed.

Does anybody have any ideas what the problem might be and how to fix it if possible?
You need to find if there is a relationship to the slots being used and the memory problem. Sometimes RAM is just bad and needs to be exchanged. Luckily Crucial has a lifetime warranty, so this is not a problem.

I would download the free RAM diagnostic at www.memtest86.com and try that with ONLY the new one. It creates a bootable CD or diskette, so Windows is not required.

Details about ALL of the characteristics of the RAM would be helpful. I have never heard of a GMate motherboard and cerftainly did not see it even mentioned on the crucial site. It could have problems as well. Im noticed that your current memory is DDR 333, and you got DDR 400 from corsair,sure it might work on you system. But I do not believe you can mix the two. You need to reset the memory to 400 in your bios/cmos setup. Depending on your bios Im sure there is a section where you can adjust the memory SETTINGS.I should also mention that sometimes different memory companies stick dont always work together,even though they should, such as when one is standard mem. and the other is non-standard(low density vs standard).That happened to me on older system using pc133,just a thought. I really believe the problem is that the settings on your bios/cmos setup are still set for your 333 and will require this to be changed in setup.What is your bios type ami? award? ??Suggest you go to your bios manufac. and check their support for setup help or check your motherboard's web page for support.SOMETIMES you can find the answer there,just a suggestion,if you havent done this already.I went online to see if I could find answers for the listed motherboard. Was unable to find a GMat board in any search engine, nor could I find it at the company you list as the pc's maker. They only show newer models and have no lists of any archieves, but was able to find the NUMBERS for a model gigabyte makes that matches you motherboard. Suspect your motherboard is a gigabyte or a copy of one . Anyway it shows the fastest speed for that to be 333ddr, so if you dont find a setup to change speed to 400 then I would swap the ram you got for 333 and it should work,better YET might consider going to pricewatch for possible better price assuming you can get money back,if not and can only get credit the I would go for 1 gig ram as that will show a SIGNIFACANT increase in speed over512.This is from my experience.I went from 256 to 512 some increase, but when I installed 2 512's to give 1 gig it really showed improvement.Hope these Ideas help.400 is backward compatible so running with 333 is not an issue, assuming the other characteristics are not a dealbreaker. The entire memory will run at the slowest speed of any single chip (333).

My system is custom built by self.I have a MSI-MB/K9VGM-V w/via k8m890 chipset. I BOUGHT a AMD Sempron processor1800mghz/AM2 socket.(also temporary till I can afford better AMD X2)1gig ram 667ddr, 80 HDD, with only 2 PCI 's plus the pci xprs16 for video and 1pcixprsx1 for ?.Ive got a capture card in one pci to use to download from my DV camcorder,as that was cheaper than a DV cable-firewire cable and firewire card in the pci . The other pci has a modem for faxing from fax machine from garage sale-5.00.As you can see I build on an extreme budget.I took some parts from other dead pc's.I did get a decent power supply-Thermaltake 575watt,two fan power. And I have only one fan in caselocated in rear and the fan on the cpu that came with the cpu from AMD. Everything was bought from newgg when on sale with free shipping.It took me three months to get all the part to build this pc.Only other expense was case from geeks.com for16.00,cheap,but works. I figured total cost around 225.00 dollars US.i MENTION PRICES AS i CAN ONLY AFFORD CHEAP. So any help to get this machine to run faster than default settings would be appreciated.
I'm running win xp pro (edu. version-from bookstore on OU campus)All software is hand-me down.

Need help with setting up V.6 Award bios/CMOS (Award workstation)Award-Pheonix. The SUPPORT from MSI is non EXISTANT in respect to specific part of bios as to meaning of the advanced settings such as IOA PIC functions?DQS in Dram config, DQS Training, CKE base power down, Memory check Tri-Stating, Memory hole remapping(I have since this post found some info on this one only)Bottom of UMA Dram[31:24]? I could use some help on where to look for the meaning of these settings. I found the ddr reset part of cmos, so I could change from default of 400 to 667 I use( as I would like to get 800 ram but I cant afford for my motherboard right now667-49.00 vs 100.+ for 800ddr) also where can I change the cpu setting as I'd like to try to overclock mycpu a little at a time to see if it improves performance?Normally a BIOS is limited to how it was written for a specific machine...why not visit some overclocking boards to see exactly what that board/BIOS can handle ? ?

It sounds like you're trying to make a screamer out of a budget machine which as you can see doesn't always work...

A little knowledge is, I know, a dangerous thing.

I'd like to either

1. upgrade an old mid tower that currently runs Windows '98 with
A. New Motherboard & AMD Athlon 64 CPU (old one is INTEL Celeron)
B. New Hard Drive (120 Gig or better) -- Old one is 40g
C. DVD/CD BURNER
D. incorporating old DVD rom as 2nd optical
E. incorporating old mobile hard drive rack (removeable hard drive? is that a better way to describe it?)
E. 9-in-one card reader



2. Build new from scratch with above components.

One of the main objectives is to preserve the data on the old system's hard drive without operating the new system with that drive.

The old win'98 System has a removeable hard drive slot. I'd like to be able to use the old 40Gig hard drive (because of the data on it) as a removeable, while running the new system on a 120Gig or larger HD. New system must be either Windows XP Home or Prof. Old system runs on Win'98se.

I have so many questions I don't know where to start asking. Please forgive any confusing content in the question. I repeat again, a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing, and I feel like I only have a little knowledge at the present time. I beg your patience in helping me increase that knowledge.

I. Can I simply use the old HD as a removeable, even though it contains '98, since the OS for the new system will be XP? That is, will the new system not care about the OS on the old, since it's not running the system? I'm pretty sure I'd have to change dip switches from primare to slave; no prob there.

II. Is it going to be less trouble, in the long run, just to copy that data on another storage device, such as a flash memory device? (I really like the mobile/removeable hard drive feature as a way to clone and back up HD data.)

III. Presuming keeping the old case is adviseable, how do I verify that the new AMD motherboard will fit in it?

IV. Would it be wiser to operate the new system on the smaller (old) drive, using the new, larger drive for storage only?

I'll be glad to give more specifics in my info if someone will help me find it. Things like memory, power supply wattage, etc. in old system. I've seen it before when spelunking through my utilities, but don't know how to find it again.

And I'll stop there for now.

thanks so much for any replies.

thetimoth



Just some basics to get started.

It is better to have the primary drive be the largest and fastest physical drive. (This usually equates to the newest as well.)

You can use the old drive as a slave. At the earliest opportunity I would temporarily copy those files to a new folder on the main hard drive. Then partition and format the 40 gig drive and copy just the data files back there. You do not need the Windows or program files anymore as you are not running 98.

You posted no specifics about the old machine. If it is an HP for instance the power supply should NOT be salvaged. As a matter of fact unless it is a name brand, 400+w that is relatively new I would leave that one alone. A bad or cheap PSU can damage other expensive components. By recycling an old one many hobbyists realize they did not save any money in the end.

Get a legit CD of XP from whatever retailer you like. Warez are bad business so avoid them. If you want Microsoft there is a price tag. Don't use a friends' copy as it mess up the install on both the machines. It is not like 98 (although the license is very similar).

I'll let some others chime in for a while.
Double post..Quote

Double post..

Don't bother using old technology with new technology. That will simply create performance bottlenecks and you can't trust the older hardware anymore, anyway.

Built one from scratch with only new parts. And you probably should get a new case as well, unless it is of ATX form factor. In which case I'd only keep it if its made of decent material and has good airflow room.

Just some basics to get started.

At the earliest opportunity I would temporarily copy those files to a new folder on the main hard drive. Then partition and format the 40 gig drive and copy just the data files back there. You do not need the Windows or program files anymore as you are not running 98.

This sparks another question. Suppose I build a machine with xp, but want to run some application on the old drive. Will xp be running the old program? Or when the old application is executed, will it be using the old OS?

Hi, can anyone tell me whats the Maximum supported cpu processer i can have in my computer. My motherboard is Gigabyte GA-7VT600 1394Here's your manual. Have a read:

http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Support/Motherboard/Manual_Model.aspx?ProductID=1667


<------------------Quote

Hi, can anyone tell me whats the Maximum supported cpu processer i can have in my computer. My [highlight]motherboard [/highlight]is Gigabyte GA-7VT600 1394

Quote

Hi, can anyone tell me whats the Maximum supported cpu processer i can have in my computer. My [highlight]motherboard [/highlight]is Gigabyte GA-7VT600 1394

[highlight]is this a trick question [/highlight]
http://cgi.ebay.com/512MB-Memory-512-RAM-Gigabyte-GA-7VT600-1394_W0QQitemZ220044977130QQihZ012QQcategoryZ172QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I guess that means Athlon XP 3200+ then.

Now I don't know if this is the right place to post this, but here I go. . . . I have a Compaq Presario SR2002X with Phoenix BIOS, the beeps sounds like 1-1-1-1, and I can't find any INFORMATION on that. I think the problem was when I had taken out the computer RAM cards(2), then put both back in. I had done this dozen of times, so I knew what I was doing, and now this is the first this has ever HAPPEN to me .
Any ideas to help me GET my computer back to normal would be very appreciated.
Reply With QuoteFrom Our Archives...

hey everyone I just STUCK some new ram in one of my comps and now it wont work at all. I put the ram in right and everything, and now when i turn my comp on it just makes a funny beeping sound with a blank screen. It dosn't try and start up or nething. So I try and take out the ram I put in and start it and same thing. All i did was try to update my ram from512 to 1gb and now my comp wont work at all. *censored*, I have done the same operation before on my other comp 4 times now and never had a problem what so ever, can someone help me.PLZwell, not knowing your system specs, its hard to tell you what the problem is. Does your new ram work on you other computers? If so, you might have broken a circuit on your mobo when you installed the ram. Sometimes, some mobos will not be able to handle larger ram. It depends on the specs of your mobo. Sorry couldn't be more help. Good luck to you.Well, Does the COMPUTER turn on without the new ram in it? Make sure you have the ram SECURELY put in and properly put in. AS Raptor SAID to me Did it Click? Did the white holders go into the notch in the ram? And If your not sure how to put the ram in, look it up in Google. Is this stick of ram the only one in your computer? Because If it is just make sure it is put in correct. And if it isn't try turning it on with the new ram not in it and SEE if it still works.Take out the CMOS battery for a minute or so, and put the original RAM securely in. What happens now?

I'll bet the new RAM was not compatible with the board or with the existing RAM. If you provide some details we can speculate further. All RAM is not the same.

A friend of mines,has trouble getting on-line;everytime she trys to enter her password(UPON start-up),she can only enter 3-letters,and no more(her password uses 6 letters).I MESSED AROUND with her F1/F2 buttons(I think I screwed her machine-up!),now it shows hdd password invalid,can anyone help me?. . before I go bald!Type of machine ? ?
OS ? ?
BIOS password or Windows password ? ?

Help us help you by PROVIDING as much info as you can...Is this a crossed thread?

I hope I am wording these questions correctly.

1. How important is it that the CAS Latency of the memory module matches that which is specified by the MOTHERBOARD?

2. Other than by reading the specs of the mobo, is there an easy way to tell what that specified latency is?

3. Likewise, if it is not displayed on the memory module itself, is there any easy way to determine the CL of the memory? Is there a tool that can do it without booting into Windows?

I have a bunch of old PC100 sticks that I want to utilize in a couple of old machines that I know take PC100, but want to still make sure that it is the exact correct RAM.

Thanks,

PKIt is always best to get the RAM that is correct for the motherboard. Period.

Everest Home can identify the RAM characteristics.

http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.htmlIf you are not OC'ing, don't WORRY about it. Just load the DEFAULT settings in bios and let 'er rip.Is there a BOOT floppy type program that will do it witout an OS?

PKNo. The bios usually will allow you to load a set of defaults. In some bios it is CALLED fail safe defaults.

nope.Alright, well then I haven't got a clue as to why your BIOS'd go bonkers. If it happens more often, try replacing the BIOS battery.Microsoft doesn't either aparently. ANYWAY thanks again for the help. later.It's not a SOFTWARE ISSUE if the BIOS needs resetting, so ofcourse Microsoft doesn't know. That's why you've got us. And PRAISE Jebus I do. lol later.CR 2032...about the size of a dime...and about 3 or 4 bucks.
Take Raptor's ADVICE if you don't want this issue re-occuring.

Yo I've got a pentium 2 computer(I know its already outdated) ,running on windows 98. Recently I bought a pen drive and though I've already installed the driver required for it to work my P.C isn't detecting it.
NOTE that my computer has only 2 usb ports to which I've CONNECTED a keyboard and mouse(my PS/2 ports are not working-seems like my computer is going to heaven ) My question is: Are the drivers for my keyboard and mouse CONFLICTING with the one for the pen drive?

thx for any help.Are you sure you have the correct driver for the right operating system?
I don't think the mouse and keyboard drivers would affect other drivers. If it is a fairly new pen drive, 98 might not support it.

What brand pen drive do you have?Quote from: black-kage on May 28, 2007, 11:25:00 PM

... Recently I bought a pen drive .... Note that my computer has only 2 usb ports to which I've connected a keyboard and mouse(my PS/2 ports are not working-seems like my computer is going to heaven

Here's my problem. I had my desktop set to the MAX possible video resolution for my old monitor. Unfortunately, my monitor failed and I borrowed a monitor from a friend that can't accept the video resolution that my PC is currently set to. When I connect my borrowed monitor to the PC I get an ERROR message that reads "Video Input out of range". Because the borrowed monitor can not accept the video input that my PC is trying to feed it, I am unable to to view my desktop and reset the video settings through the control panel. Can anyone suggest a method for resetting the video settings.

Obviously, I could buy a monitor that would accept the higher resolution and fix the problem immediately, but I would LIKE to know if there is another way to solve this dilemna. I would like to be able to use my PC with the borrowed monitor without having to buy a new monitor. Wow I FEEL like a dumbass

Does your motherboard have onboard/integrated graphics and a add-on
graphics card?Try starting in Safe mode. If you can do that, then change your video settings and restart. Getting into Windows Safe Mode Soybean,
Thanks for the advice. I was able to restart in safe mode and change the video resolution settings so that I can now use my PC with the new monitor.

Hello! Does ANYONE know offhand were the jumper dipswitch is on an old IBM thinkpad 390? I've done a search here and googled it. I'm about to tear this old "cinder block" apart but before I do, maybe someone here knows. I just need to clear the bios password.
You might try this: Contact SupportThanks! Nice site, but my search came up nadda. I'll keep trying an advanced search.
Onward with the quest. I'll keep checking back.
Did you read the manual?

LookHereQuote from: street1 on May 29, 2007, 03:51:32 AM

Did you read the manual?

LookHere

kool thanks.Have him use the cat box next time! Quote

Hello everyone I also have a wet computer. Its a dell inspiron 1100 laptop and ummmm welll to tell you the truth my little nephew urinated on it. It wasnt soaked but it did get wet. It was off when it happened and i havent TURNED it on since. What could i do to fix it.

lol.

if you feel that way about it raptor, why dont you just get a vasectomy?

I get this message when attempting to boot. I had it once before but it went away I opended up the computer and checked the hard drive.It was VERY HOT. could this be the cause? Read this: INVALID MEDIA TYPE READING DRIVE C. If neither of these possible CAUSES, # 1 The hard disk drive does not have a valid FORMAT or, # 2 The hard disk drive has been fdisk but not formatted, then I'd say you most likely have a BAD hard drive.

And, yes, the heat is a bad sign. If you replace the hard drive, I suggest you review the cooling configuration of your system. How many case fans do you have? Which direction are they moving air? Is air flow around/outside the computer restricted by objects or by an enclosed computer cubicle?

ok i got a Gigabyte mobo. MODEL # GA-K8VM800M . i recently installed a 1GB stick of ram, looked up EXACTLY what i needed and got it. after i installed the stick, my comp only says it has 512MB. i got this from the site i bought it from.

3) Why the MEMORY only shows 512MB or less?

a) It shows only a PORTION of the memory such as 512mb or 256MB because your motherboard cannot support High Density memory 128x4. Some of the Bios can only take 8 bits at a time and high density memory is 4 bits application. That's why it only show half of the memory. It is normally recommended for VIA and SIS chipsets used motherboards.

Now does that mean its only opperating at 512 instead of the 1GB claimed on my comp? or just says 512 but is using it all? i did notice an improvement afte installing it.Try a different slot.

Is this new RAM? Have you diagnosed it?ok so i got a high density stick of ra, when i think i needed low density.

comp says it only has 512 mb ram, but its a 1Gb stick. does that mean its only running off 512?
cause after install it seemed as if it worked better than my 512 i had in there before.

and ya its brand newComputer+incorrect RAM=Don't work + no surprise

Hi all,
Can anyone tell me,
is there such a thing as a usb 2 hub, as I am going to fit a usb 2 pci card in my COMPUTER and probably also GET a usb mains hub in the near future, any suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks
Ned http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.asp?N=0&showmore=40000000&Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Description=usb+hub&Ntk=all

Of course with a 4 port USB/PCI card you may not need a hub. What are you trying to accomplish?Hi GX1_Man,
Because they will be in the back of my pc (which I cannot get at) so when I up-grade my sat nav, use my external drive, upload photos for my camera ETC, I can just plug in.
thanks for the reply
Ned USB extension cables might also be something you COULD use. They come with some devices, such as some USB flash drives. Or, LOOK here: USB CableThanks for the link soybean,
I'll have to look into that,
Thanks again
Ned

System Info.
GATEWAY Pentium 4 CPU 2.4 GHz
Windows XP Home(5.1) Version 02 Service Pack2
ACPI Mulitprocessor PC
Motherboard: Intel La Crosse D865GLC
Intel 82865G Graphics Controller

I am pretty green around computers so I will try as best as I can to share my problem. If this is posted in the wrong forum please forgive me.

Not to long ago we were having a serious problem with speed. It would take 20 to 30 munites for our PC to complete the simplest task, like opening word. It would even lock up and need to be manually shut down. At one time I had to use the XP disk just to get it to boot up windows. It got so bad I tried system restore.

System restore FIXED the speed problem but led me to my current problem.

The monitor resolution is set to 640x480 and can not be changed. Going into proprities only gives me options for color and background. I followed the help wizard and found that the graphics controller was not working properly.The message was "Windows cannot initialize the device driver for this hardware. (Code 37)" The wizard recommended uninstalling then reinstalling the controller. I did this with no results.

Does anyone have anything that can help me out. My next step is buying a new computer. Yes, I am that green.

Thanks


Whos "We"?
Seems like ur having sofware problems, if a system restore cleared one of the problems. I think it may have to do with viruses.

Try to install the drivers for the graphics controller, and if that dosent work install XP again.

If the problem persists, then its a hardware problem, in wich case u would have to buy a new PC, or at least replace some of the parts.

Dont feel green. Is that the same graphics adapter the computer came with? Did you do a Windows system restore or a restore with the Gateway restore CD's? Do you have a driver CD with the Video driver on it? That is what you need to install to unleash the potential of the graphics adapter.

I don't think it is time for a new computer AT ALL. This can be fixed. Quote

If the problem persists, then its a hardware problem, in wich case u would have to buy a new PC, or at least replace some of the parts.

Is that the same graphics adapter the computer came with? Did you do a Windows system restore or a restore with the Gateway restore CD's? [highlight]Do you have a driver CD with the Video driver on it? [/highlight]That is what you need to install to unleash the potential of the graphics adapter.

Quote

If the problem persists, then its a hardware problem, in wich case u would have to buy a new PC, or at least replace some of the parts.

Cut it out already...

Hello. I recently acquired an old Dell XPS T450 to tinker around with. It currently has a P3 450, but I would like to explore the possibility of upgrading to something faster. I have never upgraded a processor before, so I really do not know where to start. I have run some system diagnostic tools and learned that the motherboard is the Intel SE400BX-3. Where do I find out what the max processor speed for this MOBO is, and what do I look for while shopping ebay for an upgrade? What should this cost me? (little, I hope)

PKYou can look on the Dell website, but realistically a P3-600 would be the top out probably, and that would not be worth the cost, even if minimal.

If you post the service tag (on the machine or onscreen in the BIOS - F2 during boot) I can advise further.

Those BX boards were good for their time. I have a few chugging along quite well. Service tag is 7VHWI.

600 would not be a worthy jump? Some folks on the Dell forum say that you can go as high as 1 GHZ!! I am confused.

PKThat is probably using one of those PowerLeap Celeron processor upgrades - well over $100!

A 450 is a slot 1 processor. Here are the upgrades they list:

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dkub/specs.htmYeah, I SAW that list too. Who do I listen to, Dell or Intel?

If I read this right, http://support.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/se440bx2/sb/cs-013634.htm#Note

then the 600 is as high as i can go, as my board # is 722396-108. Though this is documentation for the BX-2, not 3. From what I understand, the 3 is a Dell OEM board.

If I could jump to 850, though, that would be great (if the price was right)

PKQuote

Yeah, I saw that list too. Who do I listen to, Dell or Intel?

Hello,

I just bought an EPSON STYLUS CX4200 all in one printer. It was really shocking to find out that this model is not able to do double-sided printing. I just wasted $95! I read a lot of information on shopping WEBSITES about different printers but I haven't read any information on any models referring to double-sided printing capability. I thought all printers can do that!

How can anyone find out if a printer can do double-sided printing without buying it?

Can anyone please recommend me a cheap inkjet printer (not all in one) which can do double-sided printing?


Thanks,

Herringtrader
look up the printer first on the manufacturer's website. If it can do automatic double-sided printing, it will probably say it does auto-duplex.
All printers can do double-sided, a few can do it automatically, most need the user to flip the page over.
You probably won't find an auto-duplex printer very cheap. And it DEFINITELY won't be small.
Go to HP.com, epson.com, or brother.com and do a search for auto-duplex printers.Here... is a listing of HP printers. A Yes in the Duplexer column indicates double-sided printing. Lots of info on double-sided printing techniques on the WWW.

Good luckQuote from: Herringtrader on May 25, 2007, 10:01:43 PM

Can anyone please recommend me a cheap inkjet printer (not all in one) which can do double-sided printing?

The automatic duplex printing (printing on both sides of the paper) does sound handy but you should know that if you are doing duplex black printing on plain paper the printer may not use its large black tank of pigmented ink. (Which it normally uses in economy mode on plain paper) Unless they have changed this, like the 4000 and the 4200, it will use its small black dye-based ink instead in duplex mode so you may find that what you save on paper you spend on ink.

if you are doing duplex black printing on plain paper the printer may not use its large black tank of pigmented ink. (Which it normally uses in economy mode on plain paper) ... it will use its small black dye-based ink instead in duplex mode so you may find that what you save on paper you spend on ink.

Not exactly...

When printing in duplex, a composite black is used.

This occurs because when printing in duplex mode, data is converted to a graphics stream and spooled to the driver and printer. The printer does not see this data as characters or text, but as a graphic stream.

The printer will use the pigmented black for non duplex standard text output when set to
plain paper. This applies to both iP4200 and iP4300 printer models.

Composite black is a black produced using all dye-based colors.

Canons tend to be stingy on ink usage and ink costs are low as compared to some other brands so I wouldn't worry about that aspect.

With these superb printers the casual observer will not see a difference in quality of text between duplexed black and dedicated black.

hi i'm having problems with my mouse, it started when i used caps lock on my game i was playing only to speed it up a little and then it crashed when i was trying to save it then it started to work again but my mouse stopped responding. Yet it does work sometimes on web pages 6/10 times it dose notOS ?
USB or PS2 mouse?
Wireless or corded ? ?

Help us out here to help you...i got windows xp and it's a corded mouse and a usb attacted to a round thing the same as a keyboard is HOPE this helpsBelievil ........ If it's a wheel mouse, open the access plate on the bottom and you may find it all CLOGGED up ( carefully REMOVE any lint or dust and try it again)


dl65 hi it's ok now i REINSTALLED it and it's working fine-ish now

I purchased parts for a new (budget) PC, I made sure that the parts were compatible, but when I put it together, well, it didn't work...

Some times it turns on the first time, some times I have to push the ON button 3 times for it to start up...

When it does start up, all the fans start up and keep going, but my monitor (2 year old CRT) doesn't get a signal. Watching the DVD drive, the light goes on and off along with a clicking noise the HDD makes. This is my first time building a new PC, and I'm not sure if I did everything right.

My PC's specs:

ASUS M2V Socket AM2 VIA K8T890 Motherboard
AMD Athlon 3200+
Radeon X850XT PCI-E
1GB G-SKILL DDR2 800 240-Pin Memory
Western Digital 250GB SATA 300 Hard Drive
LG DVD Drive

Picture's attached.It may work to boot with an operating system cd that has cd support the you can get to installing an operating system on the hard drive. First look for the utility to partition the hard drive. The primary partition should be 10 gb then the rest can be divided into desired partitions such as one for data about 20 gb, one for music and one for photos. You could also have one for documents. This arrangement makes possible the reformatting of the c drive without losing all the files on the other drives.

Ron Walker
Pepin, WIWhat is the specs on the PSU. Sounds like that could be your problem if it doesn't have enough oomph! to power everything at once.Quote

What is the specs on the PSU. Sounds like that could be your problem if it doesn't have enough oomph! to power everything at once.

If it's an off brand Chinese knock off this could be your first time.

You need to set up with MINIMAL components - MB, CPU/Fan, 1 stick RAM and video and see if that boots. If not, recheck the build and then recheck that PSU.

Quote

If it's an off brand Chinese knock off this could be your first time.

You need to set up with MINIMAL components - MB, CPU/Fan, 1 stick RAM and video and see if that boots. If not, recheck the build and then recheck that PSU.

I'll try that out, thanks.

Hi all,

I have a PROBLEM booting up the following system


AMD System Xp2200
512MB Ram
40G HD
Windows XP Pro

Pc boots up goes past POST, then BLANK screen- monitor light turns
orange, pc still on.

Stays like that for a while (APPROX 2min) then optical mouse light
flashes, then monitor turns on (blue light) for 1sec then goes off,
after that if you press a key on keyboard the pc kicks in and windows xp
logo comes up and pc boots up as normal...

Now what am I doing wrong?

I checked settings in xp- all fine.

Went into bios -nothing wrong everything seems set right.

Cant be the memory can it?..if it then it'll fail on POST wont it?

help greatly appreciated!

abusamturn it off open it up and take out the ram stick(s) and video card and reseat them one at a time and ie take the vid card out then put it back in then turn it on and SEEE if that works


unlovedwarrior

Ok FIRST off I REALIZE this may sound stupid and any sassing will be well deserved. But my problem: My room MATE set up my wireless internet for me and it worked for a few weeks then all of the sudden stopped. My machine tells me my Local Area Connection has been disconected and as my room mate is traveling I have no COMPUTER savy body to solve my problems. Any suggestions or help will be much appreciated. THANK youWelcome to computer help,
Is the computer displaying the message plugged into your router or running wireless? Please add some more information about your problem so it can be ressolved faster

My motherboard says it can take upto 2gig DDR 333mhz ram in 2 1gb slots, i brought a Gig from PC World, but of PC400, as he assured me it would roll back and work no problem, since then my PC hasn't been running all too well, it could be a number of things, but the 2mb internet connection is running very slow, The only other changes if i've downloaded the anti virus software from the trend site, Pc-Cillian I THINK, And downloaded IE7. & Installed Aol (Not as an ISP) & Doom 3 & Wolfenstein: Enemy Territory. & that pretty MUCH sums it up as I recently formatted the PC. THe format contains a 1 disc which installs all drivers, software etc.

The ram has HELPED speed up the opening of folders etc, loading times for games. As I was only using 256DDR 333mhz. So the upgrade was essential for what I need.

Any help as to why it's running connection so poorly for the internet. It's slow on both Aol & IE7.

Any help appreciated. Thanks :]
AOL is not your ISP, so what AOL PRODUCT did you install?

I think your title is a bit misleading. Apparently, you do not have a MEMORY problem. You said you are getting better performance after installing the additional memory except for your Internet connection speed. So, that does not sound like a memory problem.

Do you know whether any of those games tamper with your system settings that might affect your Internet connection?

I suggest you visit www.dslreports.com and run their Speed Test, and then run their Tweaks Test. Although you can do this without registering on their site, I suggest you register first. That way, you can save you test results and then see how they compare to other computer users using the same ISP.

normally my monitor WORKS fine all the time.
but when i turn off the computer (or turn off my monitor) i hear SPARK sounds at the hind part of the monitorThat's cool.
Does it spark once or several times when cycling power? Is it a CRT or LCD? Is it 15", 17", 22"?
Can you see sparks? Does it smoke? Does it smell like something is burning?
have you opened it?(dont, those THINGS can kill you) I'm guessing it's a crt because lcds wouldn't have anything that would do that, maybe it's just a weird pc sound and your speakers are behind monitor???

Posted on a Nintendo DS forum, so here's a few things:

- This device is a 4GB HDD connected to the computer via a USB cord and recognized as a Mass Storage Device.
- The files on the HDD can be viewed/access using a special cartridge for the DS called Max Media PLAYER.
- The files work fine when being viewed/accessed via the Media Player, but don't work it all on my PC.

So with that, here's the problem:

I have so much stuff on my 4GB HDD that I don't want lost, but I came home from the mall today, plugged in my HDD, and it's now saying that it's not formatted. So here's the timeline of events:

1) Went to the mall
2) Turned on my DS to look for a hotspot, did other stuff, etc. etc.
3) opened up an energy drink and got a VERY LITTLE amount spewed onto the HDD, on that crack between the HDD and the pins.
4) Went to the arcade and asked a guy that works there (that I know) if he had a screwdriver that fit the 2 SCREWS, and he did.
5) Unscrewed the HDD from the base, pulled it off (carefully, of course), and cleaned what LITTLE there was of the drink from the sides (none got on the pins).
NOTE: At this time, the DS will still boot up Max Media Player, and I can still access all my files via the Player.
6) I go home, plug my HDD into the USB cord, and double click on the icon. It says "The disk in drive F is not formatted. Do you want to format it now? Yes/No"
SIDE Notes for 6):
-Drive F? My HDD is C:, my CD drive is D:, and whenever I plug in the 4GB HDD it's usually E:.
-The HDD is now named "local disk", when I had already renamed it to DSHDD, or something like that.
-I can view/access the files perfectly fine from the Max Media Player, but not from the computer.
-The drive does NOT need to be formatted, because it was fine just yesterday.

Now, I don't THINK that pulling the HDD from the pins hurt it any (I've done it once before a long time ago, and it worked fine afterwards), but it might have been the case. I'm 99% sure it wasn't the energy drink spill, since almost NONE got on the HDD.

Does anyone know how I might fix this problem without FORMATTING my HDD? I've already tried unintalling the drivers and PLUGGING it back in (so the computer recognizes it all over again), but the same thing happens. Thanks for any help.

-BkidQuote

Now, I [highlight]don't THINK [/highlight]that pulling the HDD from the pins hurt it any (I've done it once before a long time ago, and it worked fine afterwards), but it might have been the case. I'm 99% sure it wasn't the energy drink spill, since [highlight]almost[/highlight] NONE got on the HDD.

we are wanting to get a new hardrive, bigger but we can't find our OS cd so the only OS we have is on old hardrive. We want to transfer everything , expecially OS to new hardrive. First is this possible and if it is how do we do it??? thanksWhat O/S are we talking about?

Keep in MIND that YEARS of use of a Windows system accumulates a lot of debris, some of which you probably don't want to retain. In the end everyone needs a real Windows CD sooner or later.

If you want to preserve this as it is do a google search for free imaging software, or check out Acronis True Image or Ghost if you are willing to pay. (ALTHOUGH if you ar ewilling to pat, you may just want to invest in a Windows CD.)And / or you could use the HDD's utility CD to "clone" the old drive to the new one but as GX1_Man POINTED out you are EVENTUALLY going to need an OS CD, it is as inevitable as taxes...