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Sometimes, it seems I have the worst luck with computer hardware. Maybe the fact that I once owned a T2682 E-machine put me under some cure or something, but I can't seem to get a grip on hardware without that grip making a huge mistake, resulting ultimately in the item's destruction.

The first thing to go was the Standard Keyset on my Zboard. I really needed to get between the keys and clean there, and I figured: Why not pop out the keys? WORKS on every other keyboard, why not this one? Well, that went well for all but one of the single-rubber-circle-contact-thingie button. That one SRCCT button had it's PLASTIC tab broken and now the key is free to fly around. The MRCCT (multi-rubber-circle-contact-thingie) buttons had it much, much worse. For some stupid reason, the |___| shaped bars under them won't go back properly, and now all the keys (spacebars, shifts, backspace, enters) in question tilt wildly to one side. Oddly, by breaking it further, I have somewhat repaired the left Shift key.

My mouse is a Kensington Wireless. Piece of crap. One of the receiver's contacts are busted, so if I so much as tap the receiver with anything, the mouse stops WORKING, and I have to jiggle the receiver or unplug it and plug it back in. At this rate, I'm LOSING 50% efficiency in my work just monkeying with the *censored* mouse.

Do you think I should buy a new volume control for my Creative 7.1 to replace the one with the broken contact, sometimes allowing me to only hear Left channel, or do you think the hard drive will explode while I'm gone buying it?i think you should buy new volume control thingo AND hard drive
lol you sound like you're just too *censored* vicious with your hardware
but seriously... i know how you feel. i pressed the power button on my LCD montior, and it fell off. upon trying to get it out of the void in the monitor that it fell into, the monitor went white and then went *BZZSHTTHSZZZZZZZT!* and stopped working
but ok.
i think your post could be used as advice for people lol. EITHER don't clean your stuff, or jiggle your wireless kensington cable

Hey, I need help with this I have an Acer Aspire ASE380-UD440A (E380) and It is capable of having up to 4 GB of RAM in it which I have 2 in their already. So I bought 1 extra 1 GB RAM stick to have 3, and it didn't work it just made some annoying bell sound when it STARTED up, so i asked the company of the RAM sticks (PNY) and they told me for my computer I would have to install it in pairs. So I buy ANOTHER 1 GB RAM stick so i'll have a total of 4 GB of RAM, and next thing you know it makes that bell sound again! Am I doing anything wrong? I mean the RAM Sticks are fully and correctly installed in with both tabs perfectly tabbed in and I bought the right type of sticks. Or is it my computer? I mean i tried the sticks by itself LIKE 1 sticks so test it if it even worked, and it worked fine by itself and with 2, but not with 3 or 4 of them in.

Can anyone help me out?


Oh and I am running Windows Vista Home Premium on it.Check at Crucial.com and enter in your system info to make sure you got the correct RAM....
Also check Acer's manual on that MACHINE...you may have to make some settings changes for it to recognise the full 4G.Quote from: patio on July 30, 2007, 10:06:30 PM

Check at Crucial.com and enter in your system info to make sure you got the correct RAM....
Also check Acer's manual on that machine...you may have to make some settings changes for it to recognise the full 4G.

Have a read from this : http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/243570-30-upgrade

It'll give you :

About memory types supported , and what not to mix .
Bios memory adjustment to support 4gig .
Only linux can see the full 4 gig .

CAN I CONNECT A MICROPHONE TO MY SONS DESKTOP AND LISTEN TO HIS CONVERSATIONS FROM MY LAPTOP FROM ANOTHER ROOM OR ANOTHER AREA OF TOWN?No.

You're capslock button is stuck...

Why is there no trust there ? ?I don't know why you'd want to do that, it seems a bit pervasive of other people privacy.

You could always set up software to record outputs.....Quote from: not2night on July 29, 2007, 12:07:05 PM

CAN I CONNECT A MICROPHONE TO MY SONS DESKTOP AND LISTEN TO HIS CONVERSATIONS FROM MY LAPTOP FROM ANOTHER ROOM OR ANOTHER AREA OF TOWN?

It is possibly illegal. This thread show very clearly that people who type ALL IN CAPITALS are not to be trusted and should not be helped.

Was not aware that the caps were on.

i have a BenQ tft (Q7c3)
It initially comes on then, between 20m-60mins it goes off
then when trying to turbn back on it gives a very quick flash
of my desftop but turns it self off again.
When left for 30-mins everything is fine and will come back on,
my questions to you are,

1 what is the problem
2 is it costly to get fixed
3 where can i get it fixed

many thanks all the best
simshi When it turns itself off or after it does that flash, look really closely and under GOOD lighting, and see if there is an image on the screen still. Also tell me if you can see things moving around (try dragging a window or moving your mouse). If you can see anything happening, it MAY be the inverter board. You can usually buy these on the internet. Then you WOULD have to install it yourself.
thanks will try that now will have to wait a while though for it to turn its self off
cheers
Simshi
just tried to do it but the thing will not come back on right now it is doing the flash again but after that there is no image atall
cheers
simshicould be a problem with your video card. do you have the latest drivers installed?
the drivers are fine they are upto date , when i PUT other monitors in they are fine but thanks for the input
simshi
just tried to turn it back on and am now getting an faded band accross the middle where the logo goes which to me would indicate that the inverter is on its WAY out, can anybody confirm this
cheers
simshi

When my electric goes out or I turn off my surge protector apparently my cmos battery DIES and it says that my CPU has been changed (this is what it says when I start up the computer after) It's did this 2 times with 2 different battery's that I KNOW are good. The THING is tho, it doesn't fix itself as soon as i change the battery or take it out. After I change the battery it gives me problems with my ram and I have to take out my ram and let it do the start up test on it, then I'm able to put my other 2 gigs in and test them. Sometimes it wont even give me a display, everything turns on, fans, etc but I have no display and I'm not sure what the F is happening. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone,

I'm RATHER new to finding out how a computer actually works, but this is my problem:

I have a laptop, aspire 1350, 512 RAM and AMD Athlon 2600+, but it's clock speed is always around 400-800Mhz when I check the specs in CPU properties. I'm not sure if it's even supposed to be any higher than that, but 2600+ leads me to think it should be. I've been cruising sites for a while looking for helpful answers, but can't get any further than looking at the bios... SOMETHING that doesn't help me at all, since I have no experience with such things whatsoever. And I'm rather skittish about meddling with such things, since it's apparently rather close to permanently screwing up the cpu...

Can anyone give me clues as to what I should do to get it above at least 1.5Mhz? According to additional info on the net it should be able to reach that at least (I believe it should be able to reach a clock speed of around 2.1Mhz).

Sorry if I'm a noob, but you have to start somewhere... Right?

I'll be checking this post REGULARLY, so ANY help would be very much appreciated.

Thanks in advance, Dan (The Netherlands)There is nothing wrong with your computer. Most newer laptops uses CPUs that regulates their clock speed according to the current workload. So when your computer is idle the CPU will throttle down to conserve power and when you NEED to do something CPU intensive it throttles back up. So this is completely normal and not something you need to WORRY about. If you want to see this throttling in action download AMD Clock from here. It should show you CPU's clock speed go up and down according to its workload.

By the way, you can disable CPU throttling although I don't really see any reason to do that. But still, I think you should have the option so here's an article explaining the different power schemes in Windows XP.
(You didn't say what version of Windows you have so I assumed XP.)
http://www.helpwithwindows.com/windowsxp/start-04.html

That clears up a whole lot for me! Thanks bunches, both for the info and the quick reply.

MagicISO.

But I still cant find a "boot option" on my motherboard so....Boot priority, or similar - put the CD drive at the top.So, I managed to boot from the Memtest CD.

I did the test (took longer than I expected) and it concluded that there where no errors.

So now we get back to the original problem, why it was freezing up.

What you mentioned about RAM was interesting. When I was first putting my computer together, I had 3 memory modules inserted, 1 x 1GB, 1 x 512MB, 1 X 256MB. But for some reason my motherboard was only registering 256MB inserted. I swapped the memory modules into different places, and now it only registered 512MB inserted. I kept switching around and eventually it registered 1.5GB inserted, but no matter what I did it wouldn't register the 256MB so I took it out.

Also when I was playing around with the setting using the AI booster (tuning software) I increased the voltage to the RAM and the CPU and the computer crashed straight the way!

Another note. Usually if I leave my computer on for an hour while leaving it (to DOWNLOAD or SOMETHING) when I get back to if after a while, I open up a program and then it freezes.Remove all non-essential usb connected devices and try again .
Largest memory module should always be in memory bank 0 , always .

Download avgfree , install , then update .

Run full system scan , and report back .I didn't KNOW the memory banks where numbered. Where is the first memory bank, first left or far RIGHT?

Anyway, this does not explain why it keeps freezing up??After a motherboard change I'd format the drive and do a clean install of Windows without hesitation.
I get the feeling you will be plagued with problems if you dont.Quote from: Fed on July 31, 2007, 03:10:30 PM

After a motherboard change I'd format the drive and do a clean install of Windows without hesitation.
I get the feeling you will be plagued with problems if you dont.

is there somewhere i can get a layout of an aspire t310 main board e61ml. mobo.
i was having probs with unknown flash error and took battery out, to remove a PASSWORD 2 jumper pins were removed and i'm thinking they were put back in the wrong place.
when puter starts unknown flash STILL comes up then puter stops and gives options start normally, safe mode, last known etc.
am worried mobo is r/s
any help or info will greatly be appreciated.
cheers
justmickThis & this were about as much as I COULD find... Hope this HELPS.

So I dropped my laptop recently. When I dropped it, it had turned off. I started it up, and I noticed that it was starting up very slowly. Everything seems "laggy": Sound, programs starting and running, mouse pointer. I figured that there must be something wrong inside. On a whim, I decided to do a system restore to the previous day, and my laptop began running smothely. So a few days passed, and it began to running slowly again, and I tried another system restore. Well this time, my laptop contiued to RUN slowly.

I don't KNOW much about hardware, and I'm a bit afraid of opening my laptop without doing harm, but does anyone know what the PROBLEM may be and if there is anything I can do to fix it? If there is a hardware problem, would anyone happen to know of a price range on repairs depending on the problem? Thanks.How hard did you drop it ....

If you dropped it hard something has most likely come loose.... if you don't want to check it yourself FIND a trust worthy computer shop and watch over as the computer expert as he/or she takes a closer look..... or have a look yourself and see if anything has come loose.....

Tony Quote from: Richenstony on July 31, 2007, 11:36:20 PM

How hard did you drop it ....

If you dropped it hard something has most likely come loose.... if you don't want to check it yourself find a trust worthy computer shop and watch over as the computer expert as he/or she takes a closer look..... or have a look yourself and see if anything has come loose.....

Tony

Dear USERS
I have Asus Striker EXTREME and E6700 CPU so how to overclock it and its last limit of overclockingI suggest a Google search for how to overclock would be a good start.
I must stress this: do not attempt overclocking unless you are 110% sure that you know exactly what you are doing, and have the expertise needed. You can and will damage or destroy expensive components if you are not EXTREMELY careful.
As for the limit, it depends on the individual CHIP and environment - no one can say exactly what the limit of any given CPU is for overclocking as they are all slightly DIFFERENT, and the environment and hardware they are used in or with are also different.

Dear Users
I have ASUS Striker EXTREME Mobo so I have a 2GB 800MHz Corsair mem Kit in it I want another Corsair 2GB kit in it so What operating system you recommendFor a 32-bit OS such as Windows XP HOME or Pro, 4Gb is the LIMIT, but you won't get the full benefit.
For Windows XP X64 edition and Windows Vista 64-bit versions, the limit is 128Gb of RAM.
Basically, if you want the full benefit of the RAM and/or plan on GETTING more, you need to go for a 64-bit OS.
Bear in mind that drivers and programs are still buggy with 64-bit systems.

i have been using this printer before without any problems. yesterday i wanted to PRINT but it wouldn't print. the ink was full there was no jam yet it wouldn't print.

the printer status window said it was printing but NOTHING would happen and then sometimes it would automatically delete the printer job. i deleted the printer using control panel and tried installing it again through control panel but still nothing.

i have also gone through the processes in help and support but none seem to work.

any ideas.
thanks.We can't easily COME up with ideas without more information.
Please tell us what kind of printer it is, in addition to how old the computer is, the operating SYSTEM, cpu, ram, etc.
Did you install any software recently? When was the last time you did a spyware/virus scan?
printer- lexmark z12
win xp sp2
1 gb ram
my computer is 2-3 yrs old.
i did a virus scan a couple of DAYS ago along with a spyware scan
i have installed software but thats unrelated to the printer.
thanks for your help so far.
I've always thought Lexmark makes poor quality printers. If you bought the printer at the same time you bought your computer, there's a good chance it is dead.
You will probably have to buy a new printer. Your best bet is to buy an HP or Epson printer. My personal preference is HP, but I've heard good things about both. They are a bit more expensive than a lexmark, but they will last longer and give much better results.
thanks mate.Might try this as sometimes a job gets stuck in the print spooler.

using Windows Explorer navigate to %systemroot%\system32\spool\printers
(usually c:\windows\sytem32\spool\printers) and delete any files with .shd
or .spl extensions


Alan <><

Recently I replaced my hard drive, and to get the bay out safely I had to take the power button cables out. I replaced them in what I thought was the same exact order, but the computer will no longer power up with the new drive. I'm fairly sure these three, small, two-pin cables are the cause. Unfortunately I don't know what kind of motherboard my computer has. All I know for sure are the cable colors are green/black on the first, orange/blue on the SECOND, and red/white on the third. I realize my lack of information may be my downfall here and I apologize, but I ask that anyone that can help me USING the information I have provided, even if its speculation, let me know. ThanksHold the phone.....which power cables are we talking about here......and did you use a anti-static-wrist- strap....

Tony The ones I'm referring to literally run from the motherboard to the power button/light at the front of the case. They're pretty small, and there are three cables ending in a two-pin connector. I didn't use an anti-static guard, no, but I did make sure I was THOROUGHLY grounded before and while doing this.Have a good read of this information i found for you.... did you follow everything on this instruction list ......

http://www.ehow.com/how_8225_install-internal-hard.html


Tony The hard drive was easy enough. I think I was previously unclear. The HD is in the bay, plugged in, even the switches are set correctly on the back and such. The thing that I think was the problem is this: in order to get the HD bay out, I had to disconnect some wires from the motherboard that ran to the powerbutton on the case. I replaced the bay with the new HD, then replaced the wires from the power button on the case to the motherboard in (what I thought was) the order they were in when I removed them. I think I mucked it up, though, and am looking for the correct configuration.

The wires running from the power button to the motherboard end in two-pin connectors. There are three cables, each consists of two wires. The colors of the wires are green/black, white/red, and orange/blue. The pins they CONNECT to on the motherboard are 2x6. Configured as such:

. .
. .
. .
. .
. .

I know very little about motherboards and what goes where, especially concerning these particular wires. I was hoping could give me the right slots to place them on.Where to place them depends on the motherboard. If you got a manual for your motherboard there should be a diagram in it SHOWING where to plug in the wires. If you don't got a manual try to look for one on the manufacturer's homepage.Here's to hoping they keep one on their page. The comp was from Dell (big mistake) and didn't come with a manual at all. I'll see if I can't find out more about the motherboard with eyes only.

Hi y'all
I'm new to this and heard a lot good stuff about this site
So i am wondering if there is anyone that can help me as I am really really stuck
I have just put in a new motherboard and harddrive and my pc won't boot ,all it does is come up with this message " NTLDR is MISSING" ctrl+alt+delete to restart
I have TRIED to changing the Bios settings so that it boots from my CD/DVD drive
but after a minuteit switches off have i done something wrong or is there something
I have missed. pls pls pls help
many many thanks in advancePlease tell us something about your system/OS, etc. I have had this error a couple times when reformatting an hdd, replacing RAM, those kinds of THINGS. Finding that file on XP Pro once was fun, but that is what I had to do on that particular system: Boot from the XP Pro CD and FIND that file, add it to the system. All was well.

My fix, as I am going to assume you are using XP (NT based OS), is to reinstall it. I am a stickler for booting off a floppy THEN reinstalling the OS. I am going to be a lost soul when floppies are peripheals and not part of the machine!!

Hope this helps!There are replies to your dilemna in the thread you started in the MSDos section...

Double posts just confuse the issue so i'm closing this topic.

I have a functioning Canoscan N670U flatbed scanner on a Dell Optiplex GX-1 with Win2KPro SP4. I'm interested in installing a Xerox Documate 510 document scanner to take advantage of the sheetfeeder & AUTOMATED .pdf creation. Can I install both scanners in Win2K at the same time without driver conflicts? I could uninstall the Canon, I know, but would prefer to leave it available to the system unless there is a reason not to do so.

I had a rather nasty experience with PaperPort software a few years ago before Visioneer was bought by Xerox; the software uninstall routine deleted a few essentials like ntldr & a few other little files somewhat important to loading the OS, so I'm a tad gunshy, but hopeful that software engineering has improved a bit in the meantime.

Thanks for any advice.
Daiwa

not sure if you can have two scanners or not, but you should be able to... Are they usb or PARALLEL?
Before installing the software, do a system backup. I think Symantec Backup Exec is somewhere around $100. I don't know of any free ones right off HAND, but I know backup exec works very well.
You may want to CONSIDER upgrading your computer to a more modern operating system as well.
Both are USB, would be on a USB 2.0 add-in card.

As for the OS... someday.

Thanks very much.Win2K is a fine OS...probably the most stable thing ever shipped out of REDMOND ever.

I'm sorry if this isn't the right place to post this but I'm new t the site so take it easy on me.
Anyways I woke up today and tried TURN on my computer, it starts to turn on and after about 2 seconds it shuts down(just LOSES power or something). My comp is running on Windows XP, I'm not too sure about the make (i think it was a custom job), and this is my mother's comp so I don't know too much about this. Apparently this has happened before and to get it to work again they just kept hitting the power button and it started up after about 15 mins. of this. I tried to repeat this but for fear of damaging the computer I decided to not keep trying that. What I have tried was removing and turning off all power to the comp but that honestly didn't do anything.

Please help! I don't know what to do!

Thanks! ^_^Welcome to puterhope narutoman! Yeah, I would suggest not pressing the power button repeatedly. Do you have access to another power supply that you can try in the computer? Also could you give a list of your computer specs? (go to "start" "run" then type in "dxdiag" and it will give you a list of them) But if you have access to another WORKING power supply, try to replace it and see if this works. sorry but i can't get to the start button to see my specs cause the comp wont turn on, that's my entire problem.(sorry if that sounded mean) I just tried switching the power supply and nothing happened.>_sorry matey, it will have to be a trip to your local dealer
Simshi
O_O NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!
Oh well if thats all anyone can think of then, well thanks guys. But still if anyone has an asnwer or a suggesetion I'll still gladly take them.Are you saying you already tried swapping in another PSU ? ?
Was it the same wattage or greater ? ?
Did it come from a known working machine ? ?

Jumping to the conclusion that the CPU is fried is a little bit drastic at this point.

It could also be a cooling fan, RAM, heat or about 50 different things.
Check the operation of all ONBOARD fans first.
Then run memtest to see if the RAM is still good.

Let us know.

Ive got a bit of a head scratcher here. First some background;

I was on a quest to upgrade my storage server. Picked up a Pentium III 1GHZ for cheap along with a stick of pc133 256mb. This computer was running a PIII 550 overclocked to 616, with 768 mb of ram.

I threw the new processor and ram in there, and decided to add a pci bus tweak at the same time, then i turned it on and prayed lol. I allready figured out that the pci bus tweak was the cause of my system instability. But now i have wierd ram problems. The computer came up fine the first time i set it right, and was fine for hours afterwards. But after about 6 hours or so the system will hard freeze, upon reboot it reports a ram size that is a good 2 to 3 times below what it should be. If i restart a few times, I will get sizes anywhere from 2xx, to 6xx mb. If i turn it off for a few minutes, fiddle with the ram a bit, it usualy goes back to reporting its full size again, and will run find untill its next freeze where it will go back to reporting a lower number of ram. I have played with it a bit, switching out pieces of ram. I thought i had a problem stick POINTED out and i took it out. But now its back to the same problem again.

This old board is fully loaded. Current specs:

GA-6BXE (motherboard)
Slot 1 Pentium III 1ghz
768mb of ram (in 4 slots)

AGP - Geforce 4 MX420 64mb Video card
PCI - USB 2.0 Card
PCI - Sound Card
PCI - SATA/IDE Raid Card
PCI - 56k Modem
PCI - 10/100mbps Nic
ISA - 10MBPS Nic

3 IDE HDD's
1 IDE CDROM
1 SATA HDD
1 External USB CDROM

---------------

This computer has always been the ol workhorse. Always stable and rock solid. Im scratching my head as to how to stop it from going ram crazy...Here is a pic of the inards:

Have you tried replacing the CMOS battery ? ?
About the size of a dime on the MBoard.
Part # CR2032.

As always when working inside the case remove all power sources and take anti-static precautions...I dont believe the CMOS battery is to blame here. Its not loosing the CMOS information. onlly freezing then i have to reboot it and its starts reporting a variety of ram values on each reboot. Im a PC tech by profession, I take all standard precautions.It's just a standard precaution i list every time.
Without being clairvoyant i cannot assume the user's skill level.
The only reason i suggested the CMOS battery is you are getting random RAM sizes REPORTED...
This is a function of the BIOS.

If MemTest reported no errors at all the next thing i would try would be to remove the RAM.
Clean the contacts with QTips and rubbing alcohol.
And before re-seating them blow out the RAM slots with compressed air.Quote from: Maul555 on July 29, 2007, 08:41:52 AM

Im a PC tech by profession

So my computer was up and running, and then I had to take it apart due to moving. I am trying to put it together again, but I am encountering some issues, and since I don't know much about this, I am asking you guys....

Motherboard: nForce 570 sli Intel Edition
Graphic card: Geforce 8800 GTS

So all the COMPONENTS have been installed again, but my screen won't turn on when starting. It's just in sleep mode, like there is no signal coming from the graphic card. While starting I can hear that everything is running and the fan on the graphic card is blowing too. I don't hear the famous pip from the computer though. I tried several screens, so it's not a screen problem. I tried all the slots in the motherboard too.

1. On my motherboard I don't have a screen input, just a COM2 port. Any ideas on how to connect the screen without using the grapic card?... so I can check the computer itself.
2. Since my computer was working previously, I recond this is a Hardware/wire/connection issue. Is it possible that something else is not working... example the hardrive... meaning the boot up doesn't work regardless of my screen.


Hope to get some inputs... ThanksHow much disassembly did you do before your MOVE? What type of video card is it, PCI Express, AGP, or PCI? If PCI, did you put it and any other add-on cards back in the same slots they were in prior to the move? Have you double checked to make sure the card is properly seated in the slot?My video card is a PCI-E it says. When disabling it I tok everything out of the box except from the Memory and CPU that was still connected to the motherboard.

I don't think it's a Video card problem anymore though, since I don't hear the famous *pip* during start-up. This means that computer itself is not starting even though everything is powered up and running...., right?

One think I'm wondering is why you even did this. Why did you disassemble the computer to move it? The case still took as much space as it would had you not removed components. I can understand removing the hard drive if you were worried about the computer being jarred a lot during the move. But, otherwise, why take it apart to move?

If your card is PCI Express, you most likely only have one slot it will fit in. Yet, you say "I tried all the slots in the motherboard too." Hmmm, how could try a card in all slots when all slots includes different types (PCI Express, PCI, etc.) of slots?

Did you also remove the motherboard for the move? Did you take precautions to protect the components from electrostatic discharge? haha... you are making me feel kinda stupid here Soybean.

1. My case didn't fit inside my suitcase, and the components did, so that is the reason.

2. I got 3 slots in my motherboard that looks the same and the VideoCard fits in. The difference is the speed of them.

3. I left the Computer case and I bought a new one, so everything was taken out.

4. Precautions.... uhmm ..... well.... I took the different parts out and put them back inside the original cases from supplier. Then I put them inside my suitcase which I sent in the mail from USA to Norway.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Question:
1. What is wrong when the famous *pip* doesn't come during bootup?. Can it be the main powersupply or some stuff.

Thanks Soybean for helping me out. I appreciate it !!!

CheersQuote from: gushni on July 30, 2007, 11:57:59 AM

2. I got 3 slots in my motherboard that looks the same and the VideoCard fits in. The difference is the speed of them.

DIM5100,P4, 521 (2.8GHZ) HT, INT SNDNICV, 512MB DDR2 SDRAM

ikitty was in COMPUTER management>services&applications>services. ikitty's cat stepped on the keyboard as ikitty was viewing the description of .NET Runtime Optimization Serv. v2.0.50727_x86 - and the VIEW CHANGED.
columns now read:

START the service NAME Description Status STARTUP TYPE
.NETRuntime (see subj.) MS Manual

is this the correct reading?

thank you.
The startup type is correct and the service is only started when needed so it is not out of the ordinary that the service is not running. So it looks PRETTY normal.dear deerpark,

ikitty thanks you!

What COULD burn up your PSU? My computers PSU burned up and took the mother board with it. I got a new PSU (480w sata dual fan, ATX power supply) and a new motherboard. I had some issues so I reinstalled WINDOWS XP. everytihng worked fine for about 12 hours then BAM the new PSU went out but the new motherboard is fine. I went out today and got a new PSU and a battery backup surge protector, got it all hooked up and everything was running fine for about 5 hours and then BAM the new PSU is now gone. What could be causing this? Are you sure you got the right voltage.... or its set to the level you need it set at ... did it smoke at all or GIVE off a burning smell...

Tony its set at 115v as were the previous ones. I didnt smell any smoke either.Weird... did you plug everything in yourself .... if you did is everything in its correct ports....

Tony




Tony Hmm, I looked at it and everything seems to be plugged in where it needs to be. When I put the new PSU in all the fans work and the system runs just fine for a few hours and then it pops the PSU. I cant figure out what would do this, could the case cause it?Is your psu well ventilated.... if it is i highley doubt its the case.... unless its being blocked buy something....

Tony

Im just doing a little research ONLINE .....I suppose its got enough room, I dont have a stack of books on it. I could try leaving one side of the case off. Yh i wouldn't do that....

It sounds like a short so ive heard ... check with an ohm meter... if you haven't got one i suggest you buy one....


Tony I'll give it shot, thanks a ton for help.Cheap PSU's do this all the time...How do you know PSU#2 and PSU#3 'popped'?
They may have just latched out due to a short or voltage fluctuation?

I have recently had PROBLEMS with my mouse pointer suddenly jumping and JERKING about, only vaguely following the mouse movement. The background web page when this happens seems to freeze as well.

It reverts back to normal after a short while, and after much mouse moving and key tapping by me.

I use FIREFOX and have a cordless mouse. Windows XP SP2.

Any help appreciated.ive had this same problem, it always clears up after you change the batteryThis can ALSO be caused by interference from other devices such as cordless phones etc.
Try re-orienteering any electronic devices near the computer.
Some of the better cordless devices also have channel settings if yours does run it on a different channel...You could also try a PS2 mouse as a test.
Does it happen when you're not connected to the internet?
Does it happen in safe mode?
Is your computer FREE of viruses etc?

Download & run ccleaner then run a couple of online scans.
Ccleaner Slim
Ewido/AVG Anti-Spyware Online Scan
Panda Activescan

My problem is similar to that described in the thread "DVD/CDrom and CD-R problem. Need some fresh ideas to fix this one." but I have TWO drives that are behaving the same. Both drives have been OPERATING just fine until today. Now neither of them show up in the My Computer drive list. They both show up in the Device Manager with exclamation points. Under Properties I get this message:
"A driver (service) for this device has been disabled. An alternate driver may be providing this functionality. (Code 32)".

Incidentally, these are not identical drives. One is a NEC DVD-RW ND-3500AG and the other is a SONY DVD-RW DRU-820UA.
One of these is the master on the secondary IDE controller on the motherboard. That one shows up in the BIOS listing. The other is running off of a Pioneer IDE1 PCI controller and does not appear in the BIOS but this has always been the case.

I have uninstalled both drives. On reboot both of them were recognized by the operating system (Windows XP Pro SP2) and reinstalled automatically. But the status did not change.

The processor is an AMD Athlon 1.4 MHz. System RAM is 1 GB.
I looked for drivers on the Sony site and did not find any.

I have not installed any major software lately but programs are continually updating and/or installing plug-ins. I use the ZoneAlarm Security Suite for firewall and Antivirus. It is up to date.

I have run out of ideas. Can anyone help?
A :

Nero and roxio products dont mix , and foul up system aspi ... if this is the case , its simpler to do a system reinstall from SCRATCH .

B:

Go into device manager and uninstall the devices under dvd/cdrom drives .
Uninstall ide / atapi controllers , secondary first , primary second .
Locate and uninstall device driver for "PCI controller"

Reboot , system will reinstall drivers ... Reboot once more .

You didnt say if you could open the drives , but you issue may be from :

A poorly working PSU will cause issues ... upgrade to a quality 450watt psu (minimum wattage for all new systems) .

A: If 12volt rail fails , bios and system will see units , yet they will not fuction .

B: If 5volt rail fails , both bios and system will not see them , yet they appear to function (lights on , tray opens and closes)

Try replacing ide cables ... they can go bad at anytime .

The difference between 40pin vs 80pin ide cables :

A 40pin can be reversed , and 80pin can not .

All moden drives will work with a 40pin cable ... This is the truth , dont believe others who tell you , you need an 80pin cable , there false .
Sorry for the delay in responding. After uninstalling and reinstalling the drives and controllers as suggested, the problem remained. I decided that the only solution was to reinstall Windows XP and for a number of reasons I won't go into here, this became more of an ordeal than it should have been. I have just now got email back.

First, the symptoms I was experiencing was that the drives would open and close, lights on, etc. They were seen by the bios but were not recognized by My Computer. The Device Manager could see them but reported that the drivers were disabled [somehow]. I checked system voltages and they are all normal. My PS is 400W.

Reinstalling Windows has cured the problem.

In restoring my system I had occasion to remap the drive letters of my various disk drives. I have 8 drives plus two CD/DVD drives and the drive letters after reinstalling did not match what I had before. So I went into the Administrative Tools, Computer Management, Disk Manager and remapped them. In the process, I removed the drive letters prior to reassigning them. It occurred to me that if somehow, the drive letters had been removed from the optical drives, the symptoms would have been identical to what I e experienced. I don't know how this might have happened or if it could happen but it is a thought. If the situation ever arises again I will check to see if drive letters are assigned.

Gene

ive just set up my new motherboard and i went to plug in the VGA cable from my monitor and it does not find it ?... I've tried my graphics card and the onboard graphics, its RUNNING ok and all the cables are in the right place, if anyone knows how to fix this please help.

OS - Windows XP Home Edition
Motherboard - Winfast 760GXK8MB
1 gb Ram (DDR 400)
Nivida Geforce 6200
160 GB HDD
DVD RW
Floppy Drive

Many ThanksWhen you saya it is running ok are you reffering to the onboard graphics?
Simshi
the graphics card works as ive tryed it in another com and it worksfine, iv also tryed the motherboard as it is new an it works fine I had the same problem a while BACK, but I found out my motherboard was incompatible w/ the card and bought a new one after returning it. From what you said I get that both components work, but not when together right?This QUESTION was not answered: Quote from: simshi993052 on July 20, 2007, 03:55:26 PM

When you saya it is running ok are you reffering to the onboard graphics?
Simshi

the on board graphics or the graphics card is not working

... iv also tryed the motherboard as it is new an it works fine

I still SAY go higher in that psu ...... ive got a 650 watts and my computer is no where near as good as that.......... what im trying to say is ..... think more power.........

Tony How many watts do you think I need?Quote from: lgardner1404 on July 27, 2007, 03:16:53 AM

I've decided to build my own PC for the first time. Problem is I really know nothing about building a PC. I've put together what i think seems to be a pretty good configuration but I'm not sure. Here's what I've chosen.

Processor
CP2-DUO-Q6600 :: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 2.40GHz / 8MB Cache / 1066MHz FSB / Kentsfield / Quad Core / OEM / Socket 775 / Processor (0.1 lbs)

Hard Drive
TSD-320AS :: Seagate / 320GB / 7200 / 16MB / SATA-300 / OEM / Hard Drive (1 lbs)

RAM
O261-8032 :: OCZ DUAL Channel XTC 2048MB PC5400 DDR2 667MHz Gamer Memory (2 x 1024MB) (0.4 lbs)

Motherboard
A455-2326 :: Asus P5N32-E SLI Plus NVIDIA Socket 775 ATX Motherboard / Audio / PCI Express / Quad SLI Ready / Dual Gigabit LAN / S/PDIF / USB 2.0 & Firewire / Serial ATA / RAID (4.55 lbs)

CD/DVD Drive & Burner
P67-1298 :: Plextor PX-800A/SW-BL SuperMulti Retail DVD Burner - 18x DVD±R Burn, 16x DVD±R Read, 8x DVD+RW, 6x DVD-RW, 8x DVD±R DL, 12x DVD-RAM, Black (2.35 lbs)

Power Supply
GEN-2004 :: Power Up / 550-Watt / ATX / 120mm Fan / SATA-Ready / Power Supply (4.55 lbs)

Case
C283-1002 :: Cooler Master Centurion 5 - Silver ATX Mid-Tower Case with Front USB, Firewire and Audio Ports (30 lbs)

Monitor
A179-1737 :: Acer AL1717FB 17" LCD Monitor - 5ms, 800:1, SXGA 1280x1024, VGA, Built-In Speakers (12.05 lbs)

Sound Card
T777-1028 :: Turtle Beach Montego 7.1 Dolby Digital Live Surround PCI Sound Card (0.15 lbs)

Video Card
P450-8654 :: XFX GeForce 8500 GT / 256MB DDR2 / SLI Ready / PCI Express / DL DVI / VGA / HDTV / Video Card (1.15 lbs)


Basically I just want to know if all these parts i've chosen are compatible.

I see absolutely no need for bigger power supply. The specs on the video card only call me a minimum of 300Watt PSU. 650W is more than adequate.

Also, why get a sound card? You're getting a deluxe motherboard with extensive onboard sound features.

I want to print with LX-300 however the printer do not print . First I need print and document and i have to restart before it starts printing. After i have restarted, a dialog box will appear and ASK me to continue with the printing, then if i have CLICK on th YES, That's isonlytime it will print.

Pls..Could you give some details about your computer. CPU, RAM, Motherboard, Operating System, installed software, etc.
You may want to try reinstalling the printer drivers.
You can download drivers from the manufacturer's website, in most cases.

Spec.

OS - WINDOWS 95
Processor- PENTIUM Pro
Ram-255 MB

Pls. help me.You may want to try reinstalling the printer drivers.
Also check the cable connections from the computer to the printer.

When I Place a CD inside my LG GSA-H54N (Multilayer DvD Burner) There is the Standard green LED bulb flashing, searching, but does not find anything. Auto Start does not start. When i GO into My Computer and Double click on the Drive, It tells me there is nothing in, and to please place a CD in the drive.

This is Odd, seeing as how I was able to install all my software PERFECTLY fine untill this a week or two ago.
Going into bios shows the drive is indeed there, I have updated the drivers, Disabled / Enabled the Drive, uninstalled it and Rebooted, thus reinstalling it automatically (And updated the drivers... whihca re up to date)

I have Norton 360, Compleatly up to date, Deep Scanned, and Found nothing. This Sounds more like a VIRUS then anything to me, prevening the detection of any CD or DvD.

OS: Windows Vista Ultimate 32k

The rest:

CPU Intel CORE 2 DUO E6700 2.66GHz 4MB FSB 1066MHz
Memory OCZ Gold XTC 2GB Kit DDR2 800MHz (OCZ2G8002GK)
Motherboard ASUS P5N32-SLI Premium/WiFi-AP (4DDR2,PCI-E)

RAID 0
Hard Drive 1 Western Digital Raptor 74GB 16MB 10K RPM SATA(WD740ADFD)
Hard Drive 2 Western Digital Raptor 74GB 16MB 10K RPM SATA(WD740ADFD)
Raid 1
Hard Drive 3 Western Digital 250GB 7200RPM 16MB Cache Serial ATA II
Hard Drive 4 Western Digital 250GB 7200RPM 16MB Cache Serial ATA II

Card Reader Mitsumi 7 in 1 Internal Card Reader and Floppy Drive
Optical Drive LG 18X H50N DVD+/-RW Double Layer

SLI Video1 BFG GeForce 8800GTX OC 768MB 384 Bit
SLI Video2 BFG GeForce 8800GTX OC 768MB 384 Bit

Audio SupremeFX Audio Card
Network Card NVIDIA nForce 590 SLI built-in dual Gigabit MAC with external Marvell PHY

Power Supply Thermaltake Toughpower 750W With 140mm Fan

Yeah... I'd very much like to be able to use my Drive :-/ Please help.when did it start happening / did it ever work right?

Alan <>< Yes, At FIRST it worked right, for a couple of weeks.
There is no one event I can think of in which would indicate why it stopped working.

Would there be a way, other then to unsintal the drive (But inculding) To compleatly wipe the drive from my computer's memory as thought it was never put in?

I'm thinking of putting another drive in, to seeing if that one works, as such I'll know weither it's the drive itself (And can clame inssurence...) Or A problem with then computer (And can bang my head on the desk...)

I don't want to reinstall Vista, So any other way would be nice :-/Do you have Sonic installed on that machine for burning ? ?THat happened to my computer too, this isnt really advice but i just wound up replacing it with a new one..... some computer techs have no clue how to fix computers.....

Hey

I just WANTED to know , can external dvd-players effect the performnce of a dvd-rom pc GAME .......

Tony

ThanksAs far as I know, they WOULD only affect speed whilst it was being accessed.
For most newer GAMES, the disk only spins up briefly to check it is there, and that's it.
Even if it was being accessed a lot, it's USUALLY just to load things, so a slower drive would only affect the loading speed rather than the in-game performance.

Recently, I've been having troubles on my monitor. The monitor adjustment MENU would appear on my screen for no apparent reason and then the screen would go gray. After rebooting, all would be okay for a bit, but it would come BACK. I ran a virus scan and it seemed to have GONE away for about a week or so. On Tuesday, I noticed it was back. I ran the virus scan again and rebooted and now I get no video at all. Is this in fact a virus or a bad monitor?Do you have a SPARE monitor that you can try? If so try that and see if that fixes the PROBLEM. If not, post back and we'll figure something out.

i am planning on buying a new NETWORK card but i have no idea WHATS what, so i need help from you guys.

http://www.pcworld.co.uk/martprd/store/[emailprotected]@[emailprotected]@&BV_EngineID=ccejaddliidejgmcflgceggdhhmdgmk.0&page=ProductList&category_oid=-24982&show_all=true

how do i know which one is compatible with my motherboard?

whats all the stuff about "Full duplex operation at 10/100Mbps" mean?

does my router need to be compatible with the network card?

"auto-sensing PORTS speed up performance and eliminate any need for manual switching" what does that mean?

which one would you guys recommend?

Thanks for any help.Ok just a tip..... don't BUY from pc world or curry's they rip of the everyday customer's ......

Have a look on ebay....or maplins ..... or just have a browse around online

Tony All you need is a standard card.
It should be a PCI interface, which almost all of them are.
And if you just want it for internet, a standard 10mbps card is FINE,.
If you want it for a network, get 100mbps or even 1000mbps.
The speeds are usually shown as 10, 10/100 or 10/100/1000.
As for compatibility, as long as you meet the requirements in terms of your OS, computer, and a free PCI slot, you'll be fine.Quote

whats all the stuff about "Full duplex operation at 10/100Mbps" mean?

"auto-sensing ports speed up performance and eliminate any need for manual switching" what does that mean?

My Sony FDD 1.44" doesn't detects the Floppy and LED glows continiously...Is the PROBLEM with FDD or with Installation

I have 160 GB HD with 6 Partitions(C,D,e,F,G,H).When i Double click on the any of (E,F,G or H)last four partition ,in My Computer FOLDER it doesn't opens rather an Open with window opens and asks me to Select a program to open it with . If I open it in Windows Explorer by Clicking at the chart on Left then it opens... Whats the Problem and How can it b Solved.Usually, a constantly "on" light on the fdd means the data cable is on backwards.

When did it start happening / did it ever work right?

Alan <>< OHH yeah the old backwards floppy cable... for some reason I never seem to be able to get it right the first time.

The SOUND on my internet won't work! The speakers work, because music will play from my music program, but it won't work with anything I play on the internet. I tried to check the sound devices but it just says "No Audio Device" and when I go to the Hardware tab, it says that all the devices are working properly. I don't think I need to re-install the drivers because I haven't DELETED anything. Anyone have ideas?? Did this ever work or has it just started?
You say you haven't deleted anything but have you installed anything before this HAPPENED?
What OS are you using?
Are you using ONBOARD sound or a sound card? for either one, please give details on what is being used.Quote from: ErinRose on July 30, 2007, 03:56:09 AM

The sound on my internet won't work! The speakers work, because music will play from my music program, but it won't work with anything I play on the internet. I tried to check the sound devices but it just says "No Audio Device" and when I go to the Hardware tab, it says that all the devices are working properly. I don't think I need to re-install the drivers because I haven't deleted anything. Anyone have ideas??

Hey everyone

Basically ... over the past few days my computer has been RUNNING extremely slow , i haven't made any changes to any thing i reformatted and thats it and i know that cant make my cpu 100% ... im pretty sure this is whats causing my UNBEARABLE lag ....... but how can i stop it from maxing out this isn't normal ... all my fans are working as they should and my computer has atleast 6 external fans so i don't see how it could overheat ...... ive turned up my front turbine and it seems to be going fast and producing a lot more cooing air ....... im stumped anyone with any suggestions i will be grateful for thanks ....


Tony Is Task Manager showing 100% CPU Usage? Have you looked at it to see exactly what process is the cause of this? How many processes are running right after startup?

After you re-formatted, did you install all necessary device DRIVERS? Does Device Manager show any problems? Quote from: soybean on July 29, 2007, 08:36:05 PM

Is Task Manager showing 100% CPU Usage? Have you looked at it to see exactly what process is the cause of this? How many processes are running right after startup?

After you re-formatted, did you install all necessary device drivers? Does Device Manager show any problems?

I haven't installed my motherboard drivers....... because i get plenty of errors when i do that ...

Had to modify .... yes the task manger shows 100% all the time ...

Hey,
Recently I added a new 320GB internal Sata 2 HDD to my already existing 250GB and 160GB (all sata 2).
After solving a few bios related problems, I booted up my computer for the first time with all 3 HDD's.

Everything seamed to be working fine for about 10 min, but then a error message popped up informing me of a write error on my second HDD (the 250, which at the time only had 400mb free) had occurred, something about a Bitmap%& error, or something. when I clicked OK, the drive was REMOVED from "My computer" and I could no longer detect its existence.

Rebooting solved the problem for about 10 min, until I would get the error again. Eventually I ran CHDISK, and found no bad sectors, and no errors, but the Bitmap problem went away.

Now every time I start up my computer with that 250 HDD plugged in, before booting Windows XP, my computer runs the CHECK disk again. (but when the computer does boot there is no longer a problem with the hard drive)

Question 1: Why does CHDISK run every time I boot? and, how do I stop it?

A week later my computer started to freeze randomly. all my open windows cease to minimize or maximize, Ctrl-Alt-Del stops working, along with Alt-F4, and Alt-Tab. Eventually even the mouse stops moving. After about 30 seconds of total freeze, the mouse frees up, but none of the other programs do. This continues in cycles until I reboot, which solves the problem temporarily.

I might add that as SOON as a freeze starts to happen, the HDD indicator light on my computer goes on, and stays on constantly. (Hence the reason I mentioned the previous HDD problem.) As a side note, I left my computer on for long periods of time after it starts freezing, and when i check BACK, the time is always hours off (like time HAPPENED slowly on the computer)

I have even tried disconnecting all but the first 160gb HDD (where the operating system is) but the problem still persists. Also i changed back all the settings in the bios, and that did not fix the problem. Another side note: the freezing can sometimes be induced by opening lots of Firefox tabs rapidly, or minimizing/maximizing a lot of windows from different programs quickly.

Question 2: what could be causing the freezing?

A few of my own ideas:

-My 500w power supply perhaps it is not enough for 3 HDD's, and my current setup?

-A piece of my hardware is failing?

-There is an error somewhere on my main drive, or in the operating system that necessitates a complete reformat.

-A stick of RAM has a broken sector.

Question 3: If all else fails, and i do reformat, will i be able to connect in my additional 2 HDD's and read the information on them without having to reformat them and loose all the data?

Sorry for the long post, but i figured i would tell you everything I could.

Here are my tech specs:

Intel 3.4 single core
500w power supply
Radeon X850, 256mb GPU
(4) 80mm case fans
2 optical drives
2 Gb DRR2 667
Windows XP SP2
160GB SATA 2 HDD
250GB SATA 2 HDD
320GB SATA 2 HDD

Thanks so much for putting up with my idiocy.













Answer 1: Do you have any external drives plugged in? Try unplugging them and see what happens. Also, what drive does it check? one or all?

Answer 2: Could be that you have a virus or spyware. check your computer with a spyware detector (such as Spybot S&D) and an antivirus program (like AVG or mcafee) When scanning for viruses, boot into safemode first.

Answer 3: If you reformat your system drive the other drives will be fine. No need to reformat.
1) i have a printer, and thats about it. ill try the reboot without it. Also, it just checks the 250GB HDD, the one that had the error previously.

2) I use Spybot and Adaware on a regular basis, and i always run Symantec (school licence). Ill try the safe mode boot.

3) thanks, i might try that, to see if it fixes the problem.

Thanks for taking the time to read the post
Ok i read your post 3 or 4 times and im trying to figure this out we can try and rule out your memory for causing this big issue i have a funny feeling it could be your psu.....


Download this software memtest burn it to a cd at slow speed ..... reboot with disc in machine ok, quick update:
I reformatted my 160GB HDD, the one with the operating system on it, but I left the other alone.
all the problems seamed to be fixed (the computer ran fine for a couple hours) untill I plugged in the other two hard drives and about 2 hours after that the computer froze again (same problem as before).

The system is still running scan-disk on the 250GB drive when it boots up, and randomly the 250HDD comes up with a write error when I'm transferring files, (it stops being accessible, which is the same problem as before).

Thanks Richenstony, I'll try that memtest thing.
Ill buy whatever new Hardware i need, i just want to be positive what is causing the problem before I go out and purchase anything.Hey there go into run and type chkdsk see and see if it picks up any errors on your HD .....if it does .... reboot when prompt.... and see if thats solves it....

Tony

Let me know if this helps ya!! Tony What brand of 500W PSU is that and how old is it ? ?The PSU is a TURBOLINK atx 2.03, 500w. It is about a year and a half old.

I ran the memtest cd, and it came up with 5 errors. Is it possible that these errors caused corruption on the hard drive?

Also, the 5 errors would explain why the computer freezes at random times, as opposed to after or during a specific function.

I am going to try to move the memory module around, and remove one to see if I can find the source of the errors.

Also, i have not ran CHKDSK yet, is that the one that checks for errors and fixes them, or is that SCANDISK?

Yh its scans your HD and fixes your errors.....

Tony see if you can write down the errors... you got when you ran memtest......

i did write them down

unfortunatly i dont know how to get a table to show up in forums, so here is a link:

http://docs.google.com/View?docid=dfx2nqd9_0d48t8t

sorry, but i accidentally stopped the test before it was done, it had been running for 20hours, and I thought it had finished. (it was about 38% done with test 8 i think)

Anyway, the only errors i got were from test 8, which i gather is the Modulo 20 test consisting of only 1's and 0's.

Do you think these errors could have been caused by something in the motherboard? (i ask because about 6 months ago i booted up my computer, and out of nowhere i was missing a whole Gig of RAM. I am running my ram in Duel Channel mode and so i moved both the sticks over one slot, and everything went back to normal.)
Hello again.

i just got a blue screen. It happened when i was trying to open an image file on the 250HD.

the error was :

0x0000007a

i read up about it and it occurs when the system can no longer read the paging file of a hard drive.
in another forum someone else posted the same problem, and they decided over there that the hard drive was going bad.

My question is, could the hard drive be the sole source of the computer freezing? The freezing persisted even when the 250GB drive was completely unplugged.

Do i need to be really concerned about the memory errors, or is the Hard drive the only issue?
Any errors at all mean bad RAM...
If you have more than one stick then test them one at a time to find which is bad.
Faulty RAM can cause data corruption.

For finding out what type that machine will take Crucial has an online advisor at their site...

I have a lovely new laptop with a black case. The lid got scratched when sitting in my car by a grey printer. This LEFT 3 pale grey marks on the black lid. I tried detergent and Bam but wouldn't shift it. I then (unfortunately) tried a PLASTIC scratchy pad and this did remove the grey but also removed some of the colour.

If anyone has any knowledge of
(1) how to restore the black
(2) how to get off the remaining grey lines WITHOUT damaging the black

I WOULD really appreciate this.

I have a REALLY old laptop, I think it's from the early 90's. It has DOS and WINDOWS 3.1 on it. The battery really sucks, it lasts about 15 minutes. Is there something I can do to make the battery a bit better? In the BIOS settings, under power management, there is an option called deep discharge. Maybe that would help? Perhaps, yes.
Also, try this.
Charge battery fully.
Enter BIOS.
Pull the plug, LET the battery run down completely.
Charge up again without turning the laptop on.
That's the usual steps to help BATTERIES last a little longer, it may or may not help in this case as the battery is ancient.
Is a new battery an option?Thanks, I'll try that. A new battery isn't an option because I tried looking for one on eBay and there was only one battery that was compatible and it cost something like $100. I don't plan to spend more than 5 bucks on this old junk. The company that made this laptop is AST and from what I could find on the internet they went bankrupt or something, lol.OK, just thought I'd mention it.
It's unlikely the battery will get much of a boost because of its AGE, whatever you do, but hopefully it will help.

Just wanted to double check with everone before I go out and buy a new video card.

As I'm working on the computer, from time to time my monitor will lose its signal. I have to reboot, sometimes more than one for it to pick it up again. I've pulled my monitor into my over COMPTER and it works no prob. I'm guessing my Nvidia Gefore 7300LE that's only about 6 months old is crap?

Am I on the right track or... I can hit my media controls on my keyboard and it plays my itunes okay when it loses it signal by the way so it's not the comp.

Thanks for any insight!Maybe the cord connecting them is old. I dunno, i have the same graphics card, with a 5 year old plasma 19 inch with the 5 year old cord too. Mine works fine.Yes , its the video card .

Also , watch out for connected usb devices , if you overload the usb maximum current supply , the system should reset , xp gives a warning , but the apic chipset which controls power management is now , PARTIALLY defective ... that kills any addon video card quick smart because power being supplied to agp can nolonger be managed correctly .

Ive seen this HAPPEN on a few systems .

Recommended action in these cases : REPLACE motherboard .

They will run fine with onboard video , but any high speed usb2 device will suffer in speed transfers ... usb2 capture devices suffer worst .Well if the monitor works fine on another computer I don't think the problem is with the cable. I'm going to have to AGREE with Tge on this one and say it's more than likely your video card. Do you have all the latest drivers for your video card? I'm actually having somewhat of a similar problem but when my monitor loses signal my computer completely shuts down. So I'm actually having to replace my video card but make sure you have the latest drivers before buying a new card.You may want to try removing the card, cleaning the contacts with a QTip and rubbing alcohol, blow out the slot with compressed air and re-seat the vid card to see if things improve...Good call Patio. Definitely try what Patio said sometimes that's all it takes.

Yesterday there was a 5 second power interupt during a thunder STORM, my PC was on. After power came back the PC was dead...is it a simple problem like the power supply or more serious? It was plugged in the surge PROTECTOR . Everything else woks, monitor, printer. Thanks Unplug it from the wall socket for a short time then plug it back in & try booting.
Your PSU may have latched out, if that fails swap out your PSU as a test.Some surge protectors have devices a bit like fuses which "die" to SAVE your equipment. They are called VDRs, voltage dependent resistors, and they can be destroyed during a surge caused by lightning strikes or power company switching. So try plugging in without the surge protector in the way if you have not already.
Quote from: craner7 on July 28, 2007, 11:18:59 AM

It was plugged in the surge protector . Everything else woks, monitor, printer.

Hey save the grease.... I need it to power up my diesel engine.Back to the point?!
My BROTHER recently got a hp pavilion dv6000, its pretty nice, big screen (for a laptop)
and good performance (for a laptop) and it was about 1000 €, and he can play F.E.A.R with medium/low settings!

-FilipHow do Euros translate to dollars, I'm assuming American, but may be Canadian, etc. If they are like British pounds, then thats way over his budget.Don't you just love Google Never knew you could use Google for money conversions, just knew about their simple calculator. Google calculator knows the answer to life, the universe, and everything. (Imagine lugging Deep Thought around in a cart...)42, huh? Interesting....Quote from: Computer_Hopeless on July 23, 2007, 06:44:31 PM

How do Euros translate to dollars, I'm assuming American, but may be Canadian, etc. If they are like British pounds, then thats way over his budget.

Never knew you could use Google for money conversions, just knew about their simple calculator. Google calculator knows the answer to life, the universe, and everything. (Imagine lugging Deep Thought around in a cart...)

im watching it lol cuz its funny and stuff

i like the desktop cart idea run on vegetable gas or sometin like that i just have come up witha witty enough response for anything

Here is what i WANT to do , I have a FORM that I want to SCAN to WORD perfect and be able to fill in. I do not know how to do this can ANYONE help

Hi Folks

About 4 months ago I bought a new tower just for gaming and now use my old tower for everything else.
I found this wonderful gadget lets you share the keyboard,mouse and monitor between the two towers and it works flawlessly you just tap the scroll lock key and the monitor blinks back and fourth between the two towers and hit the Esc key to lock it in to the one you want.
my monitor was a sylvania 20 inch crt about 5 years old and it finally went out on me so i replaced it with an acer 22" wide LCD x221.
I hooked up the new monitor and when i went to switch towers i got a (input not supported) messege from the monitor, doesnt matter what tower your switching from or to you will get this messege when trying to switch to any tower.
The switcher works if i turn off one of the towers and can use either tower i choose just cant try to switch to one, I have read alot of people getting this (input not supported) messege for many differnt reasons some its for games the fix was just using the rite refresh rate and screen size for others it was vista and acer has a driver to fix this os compatability but i have searched high and low and can not find anyone using a switcher and getting this error. I have used the recomended settings and experimented with many others with no LUCK.
This is my first LCD monitor and i am finding that a crt isnt as picky about refresh rates and screen size as a lcd is, i am running the recomended refresh 60hrz and 1280 x 1024, i am still trying differnt color rite now im at 32 bit .
there are no drivers for the acer x221 except for the vista compatibility driver.
pc1 is a amd 1.6 with a nividia 5600 agp and pc2 is a intel duel core 1.8 with a nividia 7800 pcie.

I've had PROBLEMS with KVM switches before. I use this one (I have two, a 2 & 4 port) and haven't had any issues. I've used them with both CRT & LCD monitors.

http://www.cyberguys.com/templates/searchdetail.asp?productID=4720

Alan <>< Ale52,I concur with your positive feedback re KVM switches.been using a 2 way on both lcd and crt monitors for years. However i offer you an alternative to your web link for far superior pricing. if you are within driveable distance (U.S.A. only) of a Fry's electronics store they can usually be had for a third of the price displayed at your link.. If not their web site www.outpost.com should have them at close to their store price (SHIPPING not included) Good luck,truenorthI also have a brand new KVM switch that connects up to 6 boxes. I used it for about two months. It was wonderful but things happened and I no longer need it or the cables. So................sweet person that I am, I will give the whole kit and kaboodle to the first person who would like them. Email me!

Yes, I know, this isn't an ADVERTISING board. But I read the thread because I thought the poster was having trouble finding something so he can only use one kb and mouse. Hence, my offer.

My PSU is the suspected CAUSE for my computer overheating often, other then buying an entire new psu, COULD i just buy another internal fan, or EVEN put one on the outside of the computer blowing in? or will that not solve the overheating problem? (Seems to only overheat when i play World of warcraft and other BIG games LIKE that)o yeah, my current psu is 305 watt so this is some what of an upgrade.....

can anyone tell me where one sets the bios back to factory default??Remove the CMOS battery for a few minutes...
Do this with all power to the system removed.
Hit the power switch a few times with the battery out as well.Thanks for the reply. I ahve never done this - where do you find the battery and what is involved in taking it out? I posted another message about my FLOPPY and CD being missing in the BIOS Boot Sequence option - do you think this reset MIGHT fix that or am I wasting my TIME to try this to fix such a problem?

Remove all power SOURCES as stated. It's not all that difficult to do, you should be fine.
Just take your time and don't force anything.

As to the other issue i've never HEARD of that happening with a BIOS before.Many thanks for your help. I will give it a try.

I've hit a wall with my computer; here's a post from the past on a different site:

Quote

So, about a month ago an awful smell filled my room, and when I figured out it was my computer (heh), I obviously tried to shut it down; get this, the computer died while my cursor was MID-FLIGHT to the start menu! Anyways, the heatsink was ridiculously hot, like, nearly-burn-my-fingers hot. Hoping it wasn't the processor, I ordered a new heatsink/fan. Didn't fix it. Ordered a processor (old one was an Athlon XP 2700, new one is an Athlon XP 2700), MADE sure I was static-free, and put it in, attached the new heatsink/fan, and it still isn't turning on. It doesn't even start!

When I hit the power switch, the CPU fan 'twitches', as if it receives some sort of power for half a second, but then doesn't go any further. My roommate tried a voltage meter with the power supply, and it reads very similarly to what the CPU fan appears to do; it gets a very small read for a fraction of a second and then stops, so it seems like there's at least electricity getting to the power supply. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance...

Okay, so I have an update. I bought a new motherboard, replaced the old one, bought a new PSU just in case, meaning at this point I've now replaced my motherboard, power supply, heatsink & CPU fan, and the CPU. Tonight I hooked everything up to the new motherboard, and get this, the SAME THING HAPPENED! Er, that is, the CPU fan turned on for a quarter of a second, and stopped turning, i.e. nothing powered on. It's the same thing that happened w/ the first motherboard before I replaced ANYTHING. What do I do?!?! Quite a rush of anxiety here, heh...

Writing in from work now, so I can't run and check the specs on all the stuff at the moment, if anyone asks.

So, here's the problem. Computer was WORKING fine, i turn it off, go to bed, wake up the next morning, turn the Computer on, and the Monitor suddenly doesnt work right.

Usually when I turn it on, a little bar in the middle of the screen says "1: Auto Detect(Digital Input)" for like a second, then it dissapears and is fine. But this morning when i turned the comp on, it says "1: Auto Detect(Digital Input)" and the monitor is fine for 2 or 3 seconds, then it goes black. In order to see anything I have to turn the monitor off and then back on, to get another 2 or 3 seconds of seeing stuff, then it goes black again.. The whole time the Li'l "1: Auto Detect(Digital Input)" is there, and doesn't go away.

I even tried reinstalling the monitor's drivers that came with the comp just in case (Which was a MAJOR pain to do, when i had to turn the monitor off and on constantly to get 2 or 3 seconds of visibility), then restarted like it asked, but it didnt fix the problem.

So basically I am extremely confused, since it was all working fine last night, and TODAY it keeps going black after a couple seconds, with that little "1: Auto Detect(Digital Input)" thing not dissapearing like it should.

Any help would make me love you long time.Can you try the monitor on another computer?
Else you can try connecting the monitor to the analog output (if your graphics card got one) and see if that makes a difference.
Or if you got a second digital output try that one.I plugged it into the other connection, but it just did the same thing as when i turn it off.. came on for a few seconds then went black again.

I can try it on this computer later to see if it works, or try this monitor on that computer. It's rather frustrating though, as the one time your computer shouldn't crap itself is when it isn't even on.Unfortunately I can't test this monitor in that computer, or that monitor in this computer, since the computer's DONE have compatible ports for eachother's monitors..

On a side note, I'm about to shoot myself in the face.Quote from: Denevici on July 28, 2007, 03:31:30 PM

Unfortunately I can't test this monitor in that computer, or that monitor in this computer, since the computer's done have compatible ports for eachother's monitors..

On a side note, I'm about to shoot myself in the face.

So uhm.. yeah.. This would happen when I finally get some time off of work to mess around in a few games without having to get up early the next day.. Guh!

I really hope someone can help me here as i am at my wits end.
I installed a new MoBo + HDD and DVD drive , to begin with I had an error message
"NTLDR" is missing press ctrl , alt + delete to restart. So after some advice from another post I stripped it down and re-installed everything again and hey PRESTO I no longer get the error message but my problem is that the computer still switches off after about a minute but previously before i stripped it down the computer was switching off after about 30 seconds.I don't even get a chance to install my XP O/S
I have checked all cables and connectors are secure to no AVAIL.The computer will start to install the O/S and then cut off after about a minute.

Any help would be most appreciated
Many thanks in advanceReseat the memory and make sure it's in there good. Then try running a memory test to see if ONE of your memory modules is bad.The power supply could be bad.I tried removing the ram (i've got 2 sticks of 1Gig ram brand new - team elite gaming ram) and put 1 in at a time and in the different banks to no avail and the PSU is only a couple of months old.
There was no problems with the computer switching off before the new hardware was installed.

Check your cpu fan, heat sink fitment & thermal paste.Quote from: Fed on July 31, 2007, 03:23:53 PM

Check your cpu fan, heat sink fitment & thermal paste.

Go into BIOS and check your temps, stay there for a while and see if it shuts down.

Check your cpu fan, heat sink fitment & thermal paste.

Is there any way that you can find out what kind of graphics card is in a computer ??
All I know is that it is an AGP APOGEE graphics card (my Bro thinks its 512MB)
I got a computer from my BROTHER as he has upgraded to a new PC.The computer is only two years old and he does not have the exact spec of all components and does not have any of the original CD's(drivers)I have the montor plugged into the graphics card and the screen does not LOOK any better than on-board graphics .
I tried running the diagnostic tool "dxdiag" but the display devices shows nothing, all show N/a but the monitor.
any assistance would be greatly appreciated
many thanks in advance !!!!1. start

2.right click my computer

3.click mange

4.click device manger

5.A long list of devices will appear click display adapters , (expand with the + sigh) and what ever you see there is your card.......

6.Right click it hit properties and it will say this device is working proprley) (Of COURSE only if it is working correctly ..... will it say that .....


Tony
Quote from: Richenstony on August 02, 2007, 09:52:42 PM

1. start

2.right click my computer

3.click mange

4.click device manger

5.A long list of devices will appear click display adapters , (expand with the + sigh) and what ever you see there is your card.......

6.Right click it hit properties and it will say this device is working proprley) (Of course only if it is working correctly ..... will it say that .....


Tony

I have a HP pavilion v70s 17 inch monitor . we got in 2002 .
Recently we have started having issues with the monitor .
I can be online and the screen will go into an hour glass shape then jump back to normal SIZE , off and on . Now our new problem is the monitor will go off 1 time then you push the on button , bout 5 mins later the monitor will go off , then you have to unplug it for about 20 mins then every thing will be back to normal . We had this problem 3-4 times a day .
thanks
jenYour monitor is giving you a CLEAR message that it's about to go to the great monitor heaven and should be replaced as SOON as possible or at least taken to the monitor doctor to be fixed, but that's hardly worth while as any repair would probably cost as MUCH as a new monitor.

I had this excact same monitor and same problem. Like the other post says, im sorry but its time to upgrade!

I have a western digital hard drive, for some reason it is now inviviable to windows
it is detected in the bios. ( i have tried setting it as a slave and MASTER, also primary and secondry)

The hard drive does not show in the my computer screen but if i go into device manager there it is!!
This has been anoying me for weeks now, there is a LOT of data on there i do not want to loose has anyone any ideas, i would be greatful.

thank you in advance

Rikapplerikapple,more info required. Is this the only HHD in the computer?what were you doing when you lost the use of it?when you say the bios can see it what exactly does it say in refference to it? In the device manager are there any yellow question marks or EXCLAMATION POINTS beside it? When you do a diagnostic from the device manager what is the result?What is your operating system? Have you added any new hardware around the time this "loss" occured? truenorthNo this is the second hard drive I have tried using it by itself but windows will not detect it. I am using Win XP sp2.
THe bios detects it as the 120 hd it is. Either in slave or master.

If i run i diagnostic it says that it is working correctly

only yellow exclamation marks are for a raid controler which i dont have!Drive MODEL number? Check if it's ATA or UATA and that the correct ribbon cable is being used.

Were the files on this disk created on your pc, was the hdd ever recognised and operable on your pc?

I tried to boot up my PC an ibm netvista 1000mhz.running XP pro but instead i got this message...193 system security ibm EMBEDDED security hardware has been remove. I did no changes recently. just got to say that i had service pack 2 avira antivirus it was working nicely until today. PLEASE advise.The error CODE appears in the Post Error Codes section on this site (about halfway down). Seems to indicate a mobo problem, reseating modules MIGHT be the answer.

Good luck

Quote from: soybean on July 29, 2007, 07:53:23 PM

Quote from: Deerpark on July 27, 2007, 04:30:38 AM

Since I don't know what kind of user restrictions we're talking about here I can't say if this is the cause, but you could try and talk to whoever set those restrictions.

Seems like this must be resolved before anything else.

If restrictions are not the issue, then .... does that flash drive require USB 2.0? Does your computer have USB 2.0, not just USB 1.1? If you have USB 2.0, you should see this reflected in Device MANAGER, under "Universal serial bus controllers"; you should see one or more items labeled "USB 2.0 Enhanced Host Controller" or something to that effect. The word "Enhanced" is the key here.

Quote from: soybean on July 29, 2007, 07:53:23 PM

Quote from: Deerpark on July 27, 2007, 04:30:38 AM

Since I don't know what kind of user restrictions we're talking about here I can't say if this is the cause, but you could try and talk to whoever set those restrictions.

Seems like this must be resolved before anything else.

If restrictions are not the issue, then .... does that flash drive require USB 2.0? Does your computer have USB 2.0, not just USB 1.1? If you have USB 2.0, you should see this reflected in Device Manager, under "Universal serial bus controllers"; you should see one or more items labeled "USB 2.0 Enhanced Host Controller" or something to that effect. The word "Enhanced" is the key here.

yap, soybean is absolutely right, that restriction isn't the problem... you plugged your USB on a low speed usb ports, commonly are installed in from of the cpu... now try to plug it on a usb (2.0) port at the back of your cpu...its a matter of trial and error only... am sure it will work...enabling the usb ports in the device manager has nothing to do with the malfunctioning or non-recogition of your flash drive by your pc...hope it works...
gross_earnings

So, does your flash drive work on that computer now?

it sure does

[enabling the usb ports in the device manager has nothing to do with the malfunctioning or non-recogition of your flash drive by your pc...hope it works...