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HELLO THERE,
HAVE RECENTLY BROUGHT A PLUG IN USB CARD READER SD/MMC/RS-MMC TO DOWNLOAD PICTURES FROM MY DIGITAL CAMERA,THE PROBLEM IS I CAN'T DO IT.MY COMPUTER IS WINDOWS XP.
WHEN I PLUG THE THING IN THE COMPUTER RECOGNISES IT AND HP317EXT{E:} POPS UP IN "MY COMPUTER",I KNOW THIS IS THE PLUG IN BECAUSE WHEN I PULL IT OUT THIS GOES AWAY.IF I THEN CLICK ON THIS 4 FILES COME UP :DCIM,MISC,NEW FOLDER,NEW FOLDER 2.ALL OF THESE WERE MODIFIED BEFORE I EVEN GOT THE PLUG IN?.IF I RIGHT CLICK ON ANY OF THESE FOLDERS I CAN'T OPEN ANY OF THEM,CAN'T RUN THEM,CAN'T SEARCH THEM,CAN'T AUTOPLAY THEM,CAN'T EVEN DELETE THEM,WHAT I CAN DO IS BROWSE WITH PAINT SHOP PRO 8,BUT THERE IS NOTHING IN HERE TO SEE,NO MATTER WHAT I KEY IN THERE EITHER.HOW DO I GET TO SEE MY PICTURES?THEY ARE NOWHERE ELSE ON MY COMPUTER I HAVE CHECKED EVERYWHERE,EVEN HAD A LITTLE DOG SCRATCHING AROUND TRYING TO FIND THEM.
I AM NO EXPERT WITH COMPUTERS{YOU CAN PROBABLY TELL,BUT EVERYTHING ELSE I HAVE TRIED TO DO I HAVE MANAGED WITH TRIAL AND ERROR,THIS HAS STUMPED ME,HAVE WASTED ABOUT 5 HOURS SO FAR{WHAT A MUPPET}.THANKSNEVER USE CAPITALS IN A PARAGRAPH LIKE THAT

So let me get this straight, you got a card reader for your sandisk and when you plugged it into the computer, it didn't work. Did I get it right?IT WORKS,JUST CAN'T FIND THE PICTURESOK seriously, no capitals please.

On the digital camera, can you view the pictures you took?
When the disk is plugged into the computer, right click on it and go to Properties. How mush memory is being taken up?hello there,
i went to properties,it is using 112kb of a possible 122mb,the file system is fat,searched for "fat",but still no pictures.Start/Search *.jpg and hit Enter...TRIM 186 ......Quote

HAVE RECENTLY BROUGHT A PLUG IN USB CARD READER

WHEN I PLUG THE THING IN THE COMPUTER RECOGNISES IT AND HP317EXT{E:}

Well i asked eons ago on here how to make a old HD a slave so my computer could have two HD. Well i got that to work way back then but i never got any farther than that.... i never got it too recognize that there was another HD... so very recently i got a message saying that my HARDRIVE was low on space so i dug out the old HD i tried to make work before and i actually got it to recognize that there was another HD...... But there was more problems.... it seems that my comp is trying to run 2 windows when i START up. I get the logon screen with my name and password but another picture... then when i log on it says that this windows is not registered.... i have know way to register it... So i was wondering is there a way to format the old one (the one that i am hooking up) therefore taking off windows.... without having to log on and register windows... that is my only problem if i can get this stupid thing to work i can have enough gigs to rest easy so please some one HELP.ok i figured it out! but now i have another problem. What i had done that made both HD try to run windows was that the one i was adding was set as a slave but the one that i had was not set as a master. So i pulled out the old one to see how to set it as a master and i SAW that i needed to plug two of the pins.... now the problem is i dont have two of the little black plug thingies...... but i was diging thrue some old parts and i found a old cd drive (from the same pc as the HD im adding actually) this had pins much like the HD and on them is a yellow not black plug..... is this the same thing as the black plug on the HD? if it isnt do you know where i can get those black plugs? or how to make a substitute? please i really need this HD any help would be nice.

K i just looked on the web and found that the things i called "plugs" are called jumpers..... so my question again is the yellow jumper on my old cd drive the same as the black jumper on my HD?As long as the pins on the two devices are spaced the same and that yellow jumper fits on the pins on your hard drive, it should work fine. All it does is ESTABLISH an electrical contact between two pins.AAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHH HHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

im going to cry......

I set it all up i got it to verify windows..... but it signs on windows as the slave HD..... what the heck? what did i do wrong? it even says that its a slave yet it signs on that one..... i cant format it....... what do i do???

basicly i guess what i need to know is there a way to make the PC boot a HD? like in setup or something.... So it will boot the HD i want (what should be a master..... though it says that its a secondary master to the cd drive....) please please please help me.... im about ready to smash my head into the wall.

Can someone tell me the correct configuration and settings if I'm installing 2 burners (IDE 1 & 2, slave, master). I installed 2 burners. IDE 1 had HD Master, and Slave BURNER. IDE had Master Burner. When I booted up, the system recognized the brand name, then while searching for drivers, started saying cd-rom and dvd-rom, and then I got the blue screen fatal error and computer restarted itself. After it restarted, I looked in device MANAGER, and the brand name wasn't there. It only said master IDE CONTROLLER, primary controller and secondary controller, as if some type of genetic driver were installed. Please help.
I would do this...Keep IDE1 for HDD's only. Then hook up both DVD's on IDE2 with one set as master and one as slave.

Windows sometimes mis-identifies optical drives according to what type of media is currently being used so don't fret about what Device Manager reports unless the drives are not working.
Usually on newer flavors of Windows no drivers need be installed for these to WORK properly.

I looked around to see if anyone asked the same question, but I didn't find it.

I have a laptop and sometimes when i've been playing a computer game for awhile my computer will without WARNING completely shut off.

I suspect this is because the computer gets too hot, after it shuts off it won't TURN back on again for awhile.

Is this harmful to my computer, is there anything I can do to prevent it besides quit playing when the computer starts to get hot.

Thank you.markodylan ........ I would suspect that the shutdowns are a heat related issue......... Games tend to work the machine hard hence the additional heat. Make sure there is good air FLOW around the machine and that there isnt any DUST underneath possibly enhancing the issue.


dl65 Thank you.And for answering WHETHER or not its harmful to the computer:
Yes, in some ways it is.
It causes faster ware and tare on the computer, which, could cause the CPU and Motherboard to go bad before their normal usage expirations.

I have an Aopen AK77-400 max MB. My cpu OVERHEATED because I somehow disabbled my cpu fan. I plugged the cpu fan into a system fan plug and it works. I get a message after win xp startup SAYING, "can't detect cpu fan". How can I enable or detect the cpu fan? Maybe it's a physical problem with the motherboard fan plug? It has to use the CPU fan pins located NEARBY as they include fan sensors...

This is to prevent frying your CPU, MBoard or both.

I got a new computer, supposedly with an 80 GB harddrive. If I look it up in the Windows Explorer (C - properties), it indicates 51.2 GB (overall, *not* only free space). I know the indicated size should differ a bit from the 80 "GB" (vs. GiB), but this 28.8 GB difference seems a bit odd to me.

The "recovery" space is 11 GB big, so EVEN if one adds that (does one have to?), that'd still account for considerably less than 80 GB.

Thanks for your patient help! :-)

PS: Yep, I know I'm ignorant, which is only partly due to a very old (and easy-to-understand) system that I've used so far. So I appreciate if you'd help me even with such a probably "easy" question...

Recycle bin, swap file, and hidden system files take up space as well.

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/using/helpandsupport/learnmore/tips/hiddenfiles.mspxThanks.

My recycle bin, however, is near EMPTY (as the computer is new), and I've already clicked on the "display of hidden files" etc. (does that mean that they're still not counted towards the CAPACITY? Are they ever?). Any way of checking the size of the swap? (And generally, should it be a matter of 10 or 20 GB?)

Generally, should the "back-up"/ "recovery" drive (that additional drive--"D" or "E", or whatever--sorry, I'm not sitting in front of the computer just now, and the one I'm using doesn't have such a drive) be counted towards the overall size?

Thanks again for understanding clueless people like me! :-)Another way to check would be to right clik the drive in My Computer and select Properties...... yeah, or simply by opening the Windows Explorer and clicking on "My Computer". But that doesn't help me on my quest for the lost GB...Right click on My Computer, choose manage and go to storage from there to disk management. Make a screenshot of what you see and post it here.

Interesting info! I don't understand all of it, though, and--sorry--I'm not sure what a screenshot is (Prnt Scrn??). So at any rate here's the information:

Volume Layout Type File Sys. Status Capacity Free Space (...) [all volumes: No Fault Tolerance, 0% Overhead]
partition basic FAT Healthy (EISA configuration) 47 MB 39 MB
partition basic FAT32 Healthy (Unknown partition) 4.73 GB 176 MB
(C) partition basic NTFS Healthy (System) 51.23 GB 42.05 GB
backup (D) partition basic NTFS Healthy 17.10 GB 17.03 GB
First, the 80GB rating is deceptive. The 80GB rating assumes a conversion rate of 1000MB to 1 GB. In reality, this conversion should be 1024 MB to 1 GB. So, the actual hard drive space is going to be slightly less than 80GB.

Next, let's take a look at your partitions. You've got a system partition (C) which is 51.23GB in size. It looks like your manufacturer created a second partition (D), and allocated the 17.1 GB it contains for Backups. So, we're looking at 68.33 GB between those two drives.

Next, you've got two other partitions listed. This is where some undefined variables come into play. Where did you buy the computer from and what kind of hardware is in it? The smaller of the two partitions is labeled EISA Configuration. Someone else here will correct me if I'm flat out wrong, but my best google searching reports that this is used to configure devices on an ISA bus. This confuses me a bit, since you said this is a new computer, yet I was under the impression that ISA was pretty much dead in new pc's.

The larger of the two partitions is labeled Unknown, which provides a mystery in itself. Best guess says that this could be a recovery partition, created by the manufacturer, to be used to roll the computer back to factory defaults.

The bottom line: Your 80 GB drive is broken up into PIECES, like a pie. Each of the entries on the table you posted represents a piece of that 80 GB. To find the total space on your physical hard drive, you need to add up those pieces. I didn't do the math exactly, but it looks like the total of those pieces is somewhere in the ballpark of 75 GB.Here's a reference which discusses the calculation of actual hard drive capacity: A White Paper. If you go to page 5, you see a GB defined as 1,073,741,824 bytes, and it explains how that is derived. If you divide 80,000,000,000 (your claimed hard drive size) by 1,073,741,824, the answer is 74.49, which is very close to the sum of your partitions. So, it seems you really haven't lost any space.As a newcomer, I simply have to comment: I am thoroughly impressed with the clarity of these responses. I don't know if anyone will ever come back and read this thread, since it's several days old, but

GX1_Man
patio
Raptor
EssentiaTech and
soybean

are impressive individuals. They are articulate in the JARGON, and gifted, patient advisors. Kudos!

thetimothTrue.

And that Rob Pomeroy, he's pretty *censored* impressive too.








Oh...Absolutely. You simply weren't involved in this particular discussion.

I bought a Intel Pentium 4 925x motherboard on ebay. Then all the accoutriments to complete a super new system. But- 10 minutes after starting assembly SATURDAY morning I hit a major problem! There are no BOARD indications of the position of the case power leads i.e. power SWITCH, power led, speaker, reset switch etc. All there is, is a bank of 17 pins (9 x 2 with one blank) named control panel. I have spent 3 days (all bank holiday weekend) trying to ascertain the board model/maker/manufacturer, with no success, in order to download the manual to discover what leads go where. Is there any computer whiz out there that could possibly throw any light on the positions of leads?? I would be sincerely eternaly grateful if there is. I am completely at the end of my tether. What a waste of a whole weekend, I expected to be using my new machine now. Instead I have a kitchen table coved in components and eating dinner from my lap! So is the wife - think I'm popular? Have included a picture of the offending pins. PLEASE help if you can.
Regards
Kevin

[cleaning up - attachment deleted by admin]You bought a motherboard and didn't know the model or brand?

Somewhere on it are some identifying marks. See what you can find.I have spent 3 days trying - believe me!! I have given up now. All I need to know is what leads go to what pins?screwball....... How about taking a pic of both sides of the mobo and posting it here ..... ? ( As large as possible) Have you contacted the seller to ask them what kind of a board it is?. All you know is that it has an Intel 925 chipset in it.


dl65

one can usually find the MAKERS name or an abbreviation thereof silk-screened on the motherboard/on the side of the last expansion board slot to the left of the motherboard. Additionally, the slot will often contain the board version number.





An FCC # will also sometimes yield results...

So I have been using an A/V cable to connect my speaker system to my laptop (it's really an iPod cable, with A/V on one END and a 3.5mm headphone PLUG on the other). But somehow the headphone plug broke off, leaving the end piece of it still inside my headphone jack on my laptop.

Any ideas on how to get it out? I can't think of ANYTHING good.

Please help, thanks in advance.
pliers? worst comes to worst, what you can do is un-solder the jack and re-solder a new one on.How far in is it broke off?

Even or,way down in there? :-?

Can you see it?Quote

How far in is it broke off?

Even or,way down in there? :-?

Can you see it?

I have a DELL LAPTOP that is connected to the internet via a Netgear WIRELESS ROUTER. I have my main computer that has my printer hooked up to it, hooked up through the router as a lan. How do I print to my printer on the main computer through my laptop ? PC-->Share printer

Laptop-->ADD printer-->from network

PC and laptop need to be in the same workgroup.

Do you need further instructions?

Hi I have computer that keeps having problems, its a computer that ive used since 2003 and its still working. I keep upgrading the PC time2time. So, i get my hands on the hardware sometimes.

My problem is , my computer keeps loading windows then it just restarts,goes blank screen,bluescreen. i gets me really frustrating sometimes and i have install windows again .secondly thing my Pc gets problems in less than a week from a new installation XPPxp1. I you know what causing this can help me solve my problem .oh, i bought a new casing that is screwless. and i have 400w ps. any ideas whats my problem...

My PC SPEC is
Amd Athlon XP3000+
Gigabyte GA-7VA Rev.1
1 GB Kingston RAM ddr400
Dlink Wifi card
Forsa GF5600XT 128Mb
Sony CDR/DVD
Imation DVD/RW/RAM
Floppy 1.44MB
Altec Lansing MX5210 THX
Viewsonic VA702
Maxtor 160GB
Western digital 80GB

help me!!! How are you installing XP ? ?

Is this a shiny CD that says Microsoft all over it ? ?

Quote

XPPxp1

Been there, done that.
From your information I am rather certain I had the same problem. It has to do with the way you install the hard drive.
This topic has been well covered before, but many people are just not aware of the problem. The Maxtor site explains the problem and so does the Microsoft site.
The catch is that you are expected to read that information before, not after you install the hard drive. But no one knows about the problem because most people think the problem was solved. Well, it was solved, but not in a transparent manner. The user still has to do something when doing a install of the Maxtor drive. But it is not really their fault. It is Microsoft that did not finish the job.

To know if this applies to you, please tell us what model Maxtor drive is. It can make a difference.

I have a question. I am planning to build a computer to be my media center and DVD and CD player. I am getting the Intel DG965WH motherboard with G965 chip set. The chip set comes with integrated GMA X3000 graphics and SAYS that it has HDMI interface. But on all the pictures I've seen, I have seen no HDMI slot.

I know this is KIND of STUPID, but it's buggin me. it just means that it can PRODUCE the signal for hdmi, unfortuntely a lot of good hardware is TURNED bad for this reason.

I am CLICKING the TURN off ICON but it does not work.It just BLINK

Hi,

Feel free to laugh I've got thick skin. The only way you are going to help is if I'm completely thorough in my description. In my defense I thought that in no way could my problem be my motherboard, oh and I'm an idiot.

Recently it appears my old motherboard and/or HDD failed, and I took that as an opportunity to upgrade the entire system. I upgraded to:

ABIT AN8 32X nVidia nForce SL - Motherboard
AMD Athlon 64 3800+
4 sticks of Kinston 512 DDR400 (2 from old system)
EVGA GeForce 7950T - Video Card (initial install ATI PCIe X1600 pro - sent back)
OCZ 700W RT POWER supply (initially installed with Thermal Take 480W)
Seagate Barracuda 320G Sata2 HDD
2 - Pioneer DVR-111D DVD Burner drives (initial install was old drives from old box - Maddog DVD and LITE-ON burner CD-ROM)
Old floppy drive from last box

Plugged all in including old disc drives, Set BIOS, loaded OS, brought OS up to date with updates, loaded programs, all on the old drives with no problem. worked great and I was happy. 2 days later the ATI video card fails (1 LONG beep in the POST, followed by 2 short). I reseat it, try the other PCIe slot, nothing. I heard the OS loading once. I assume (wrongly for the first time) that because this video card does NOT have a PCIe power connector that it must be drawing too much power from the board itself and upgrade the power supply. New power supply does nothing, so I assume it's a bad video card and send it back. I get the new video card, plug it in and every thing works fine. Problem solved, it's the card right?

Here's where it gets interesting, I mistakenly install an old version of ROXIO easy CD creator, the kind not supported by XP. After several messages by windows, I uninstall Roxio and install NERO. After the uninstall of ROXIO, all of a sudden my computer no longer shows that I have any disc drives and hardware manager has yellow exclaimations next to them. I attempt to update drivers and windows says I can't because "there is no driver better than the one already installed and the driver is either corrupt or MISSING" or something like that. I attempt to remove the drives and reinstall them, both automatically and manually. Same message. I assume it's the drives (wrongly for the second time), get two new drives, plug them in, same thing. In the meantime, my scanner decides to no longer work, and neither does my floppy drive. By the way, I did try to restore windows to an earlier time and I kept getting a message that it wouldn't help because I had removed the drives and reinstalled them.

Now I'm thinking I NEED to flash the BIOS. This board has a utility called aGURU. I brought up the utility and was trying to get to the Flash Utilily, when I found that the Flash Utiliy was not in the setting menu, but before closing I checked the "minimize after start-up" box, applied, hit Okay, and closed. IMMEDIATELY my machine stats making all these noises and I'm getting a warning that the voltage to my CPU is unsafe (indicated 1.45V). Windows shuts down. I try to boot again and it gets past BIOS, loads windows (all the time with the alarm going off - sounds like an English Police Car Siren), and after about 30 seconds it shuts down again. I've tried to get back into the utility to undo what I did but windows shuts down before I can even try.

Now, Maybe this maybe the smartest thing I've done so FAR. I'm not going to do anything else until I get some advise about what someone with a whole lot more experience with this, has to say. Go ahead stop laughing and help me, please.

Thanks,

Albanytinman
Your best bet now is to remove the CMOS battery (on the motherboard about the size of a nickel) for about 10 seconds and then reinsert it and start the machine. That should set ALL of the BIOS settings to default. Then we can see what still works.

TRYING TO FIX MY SON COMPUTER ......... WINDOWS WILL START UP BUT WHE DESKTOP LOAD.......... GET WINDOWS EXPLORER MUST CLOSE. NEED SOME HELP PLEASEYou might want to fix your keyboard first.


Anyway, can you be a little more specific? Like your OS (operating system e.g. XP, Vista) and lots of other stuff I can't be bothered listed.HEY THERE,
SORRY, I WASN'T MORE DESCRIPTIVE. IT'S MY 1ST TIME IN A HELP FORUM!

THE ERROR I RECEIVE IS- ERR 5 ERROR FINDING V FLOPPY.SYS
ALSO ERR 8 - FAKE FLOPPY DRIVER NOT FOUND

RUNNING WIN DOWS XP HOME EDITION

TRIED OPENING WINDOWS IN SAFE MODE - USE LAST KNOWN GOOD CONFIGURATION AND START WINDOWS NORMALLY. WILL RESTART AND WINDOWS WILL LOAD BUT WHEN I LOG IN TO MY USER, GET AN POPUP WINDOW THAT SAYS " WINDOWS EXPLORERS MUST SHUT DOWN" AND THEN THE SYSTEM LOCKS UP. IF I CLOSE THE WINDOW, IT JUST KEEPS POPPING BACK UP AND THE DESKTOP NEVER LOADS

HAVE TRIED THE RESTORE DISCS TO NO AVAIL

APPRECIATE ANY HELP YOU CAN PROVIDE

THANKS JAN



CANNOT GET TO DESKTOP, RECEIV

Well, I'm just guessing here, but I don't think the problem is hardware-related. Until the experts come, I'll be trying to help.

So you say you opened in Safe Mode? If you did, the moniter would say Safe in the corners of the screen. If you WENT in Safe Mode and this still happened, it might not be a virus, but it's best to check anyway. Do you have any anti-virus software and firewalls?

And what do you mean by "locks up"? Like, it shuts down, or does it freeze or something? And do you have the real Windows CD? If we can't solve this problem, you might need to reformat.

And what's this mean:
Quote

CANNOT GET TO DESKTOP, RECEIV

ERR 8 - FAKE FLOPPY DRIVER NOT FOUND

What should i do with the error. Ive tried to open the system to get the real error. Sometime thers a cross link,invalid entry and many othres.

I am building my first PC. I have had NUMEROUS PC's over the years going back to my first DOS based monster but what I'd like to know in your opinion (s), is what should I buy component wise. I want speed most importantly. I usually am multi-tasking in various graphic related programs such as Adobe Suite, MACROMEDIA or Corel so the graphic card I use is important. My monitor is a 32" Samsung LCD so I run multiple windows simultaneously. The sound card is also important as I am a musician but won't be running any music applications through this PC. Have a separate one for that. So my question is: Based on above what CPU, graphic card, sound card, I/O controllers, cooling system, RAM and compatible motherboard WOULD you guys recommend?
Thanks in advance,
BGI don't think your graphics card will be that important for that kind of thing.
Aim for a mid-range one anyway, 7600 or X1600 class.
Go for a Core 2 Duo CPU if possible.
And aim for a Creative Audigy 2 or better sound card.
Also, get at least 1Gb RAM.

But this all depends - what's your budget?
And where are you in the world?anything dual-core really, maybe even a 64-bit if youère really concerned about price.
Yes at least a gig.
Go for a 7600GS, I canèt really speak for ati, but they do tend to be less stable than nVidia IMHO.
160GB HDD
all togethor that should be no more than $600US. (have no CLUE how much in EUROS)Thanks for your input.
BG

Periodically (haven't been able to determine any pattern) when printing labels or ENVELOPES, a full page hp LaserJet 1012 printer "ad" page will print instead of the desired label or envelope. Two of our computer users have hp1012's and both users complain about this same problem. Anyone ELSE having this problem or KNOW the solution?what SOFTWARE program are you using ..is it fellows avery what..http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/us/en/ho/WF13a/18972-236251-236263-14638-f13-377934.htmlWe use Windows XP and WordPerfect 9.Quote

We use Windows XP and WordPerfect 9.

street1, why are you posting a reply in a thread with no activity for over two years?

HUh ?

I was wondering if they MAKE crt monitors with a vga input (like flat monitors) so i can use an xbox 360 vga cable to view games at 720p MODE. I tried a froogle search and it came up with some cheap monitors. here are the addresses to the sites for the three monitors:

http://www.shop.com/op/~EMachines_eView_17f3_Monitor_CRT_17_1280_x_1024_60_Hz_0_25_mm_VGA_(HD_15)_graphite,_platinum-prod-23891004-31912548?sourceid=298

http://www.rainierpc.com/servlet/the-123/Viewsonic-17%22-CRT-Monitor/Detail

http://www.shop.com/op/~KDS_Xtreme_Flat_7s_Monitor_CRT_17_1600_x_1200_65_Hz_0_25_mm_VGA_(HD_15)-prod-19557931-26846398?sourceid=298Well, obviously, you can get CRT monitors with VGA CONNECTORS. The links you provided clearly show that. I'm not familiar with xbox. Perhaps I'm missing the point of your question.i'm trying to ask if these monitors have an actual input where i can plug a seperate plug into (which is a vga plug) because they make a cable that plugs in to the xbox and has a vga plug at the end so that i can plug it into a monitor with a vga input (not the kind that have the cord attached to them either)I'm still QUITE sure I understand this, but I get the impression you could connect a CRT monitor with standard VGA cable if you had an adapter. If not, then I have no clue. Someone will probably be able to help you with this, so stay tuned.my xbox can plug into a vga input (with the special vga cord), but i'll need a type of monitor that has the vga input.

What i'm saying is that i've never seen a monitor with an exposed input on it (to plug something into it)

this monitor has an actual spot to plug in the xbox right? not just a cord hanging from it like all the OTHERS i've seen? that's what i mean.

I have a pretty new computer. When it is on for awhile I start getting GREEN sparkles around the borders of anything on the monitor. It gets worse as the computer or monitor heats up (not sure which has the problem). One time I ignored it and the computer totally froze (or the monitor ) I bought this computer for gaming and I can't use it longer then 20 minutes or so. Please help.
Thank you.I forgot to say that it is an LCD flat panel monitor. I don't know if that makes a differenceTry a different monitor on your computer and try your monitor on a different computer.Quote

Try a different monitor on your computer and try your monitor on a different computer.

okay so i get green and blue outputs to my monitor from my new biostar 7600 gs GRAPHICS card. the monitor is fine, but i was told i MIGHT not have the cord pluged in all the way in the back... i do and its not the cord or the monitor, so what i WANT to know is it possible that from the factory could there have been somethign logged in on of the pin SLOTS of the vga conector... and when i use a dvi to vga converter to see if i can use the other port there is no picture .. but of COURSE i have change no settings so i dont know what i should do .

is it just a bad card?

today i was going to buy this for recording videos games and television
http://www.newegg.com/Product/CustratingReview.asp?item=N82E16815294002
But then it got me thinking if it would fit my computer??? Soooo for my 1st post and 1S question i was wondering how i would check 110% sure that this would/nt fit my computer before purchasing ittt!! thanks in ADVANCE!WELL, you might need to list your computer or motherboard make and model, so we are not guessing.

It is a standard PCI CARD so you should have open PCI slots. Look in the case and see. There should be several WHITE slots, but they could be other colors.

is a Pentium 4, 2.0 gHz processor better that a Pentium M 1400mHz processorWell, it's certainly hotter and USES more energy than the M. WHETHER it's better depends on how it is used and what it is used for.

I use XP and all has worked fine. 3 days ago I placed a movie in the drive and it told me there was nothing in there. I have switched it off then tried again and same deal.
Does anyone know why it's doing this? Try a different CD/DVD...a data disk and or a music disk.
Does it read those ?
How old is the drive they all fail eventually.

One simple thing you can try is Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager...find the drive, right clik it and select remove. You will see a warning...ignore it and re-boot
Windows will automatically re-install it.

If this doesn't work chances are it's failing. The only way to find out for sure is to swap it into a working machine.Thanx Patio for taking the time to help me. I did what you suggested and I was able to get rid of the drives except the one i wanted to. I got rid of them all on there but that one stayed dvd-ram drive (D). I can't see which one it is. I hope it doesn't need replacing, I have already replaced my montor and I am only a single mom and it's only about 2 1/2 years old.Can you open My Computer and take a screenshot and post it here so we can see how your drives are set up ? ?Thanx so much for taking the time to help me you are awesome.
Hope this photo comes through okay.

[cleaning up - attachment deleted by admin]Photo came thru fine...

Question: Do you have 2 actual DVD drives in that machine or only one.

RAM drives can be created by some software programs...maybe this is the hangup...

This would be either from a burning software program or a virtual drive program such as Daemon tools...It only has one drive and I do have Daemon tools installed but I have never used it
should I get rid on it?
Thanx again

You will probably have to use Daemon tools to un-mount the existing RAM drive...then re-boot and try my above suggestions again and you should be good to go...

p.s. since you have a RAM drive showing...someone has used it on that machine.I'm having the same problem on my HP Pavillion.

I've attached a screen print. The problem drive is G. Although it shows up as a 'CD-ROM' it is a DVD drive. It doesn't recognize when disks are inserted and shows in My Computer as a DVD-RAM drive.

I changed the transfer mode PIO to DMA to prevent read ERRORS with disks.

Any help appreciated

[cleaning up - attachment deleted by admin]grubbyjeans it's always best to start a new topic even though you're symptoms are the same...
This will ensure the problem recieves adequate attention.
It is listed as a Lite-on DVD drive so no problem there.
Sometimes Windows will report the drive according to the media in the drive.

Go to Control Panel /System/Hardware/Device Manager...find the drive right click it and select remove.
On re-boot windows will re-install it. See if this works.

If not let us know.

p.s. That drive dropping into PIO mode suggests your machine has other issues. Post as much info as you can on your dilemna in a new thread.Quote from: patio on MAY 25, 2007, 05:10:38 PM

grubbyjeans it's always best to start a new topic even though you're symptoms are the same...
This will ensure the problem recieves adequate attention.
It is listed as a Lite-on DVD drive so no problem there.
Sometimes Windows will report the drive according to the media in the drive.

Go to Control Panel /System/Hardware/Device Manager...find the drive right click it and select remove.
On re-boot windows will re-install it. See if this works.

If not let us know.

p.s. That drive dropping into PIO mode suggests your machine has other issues. Post as much info as you can on your dilemna in a new thread.

Hi. I've been having a problem with the left arrow key on my laptop computer (see title for model), and this only STARTED happening today. The key now requires a much greater amount of pressure than usual for it to do anything; I practically have to mash it.

Just so you know, I protect my computer fiercely and make sure not to SPILL anything on it, but there is a certain amount of free-floating pet hair in the HOUSE. Also, my laptop is one that allows you to remove individual keys (to say nothing for the little rubber jobbies underneath them). I'm at my wit's end and WOULD like to avoid buying a replacement internal keyboard on EBay or even a hulking external one. Is there any way I can fix this? I'd really appreciate it if someone could help me out here.You can try removing and cleaning it, per Toshiba instructions, or BLOWING it out with compressed air. If the electrical contact is failing a replacement maybe the only option. Some laptops are easier to work on than others.

Hi there I hope this is the RIGHT FORUM for this thread! Anyway, pretty much what it says on the tin. I have all the peripherals already so I'm just interested in the computer itself, although I need an OS. I have quite a bit of money left over, so I'd like some advice on what components I could or should spend more money on.

Also, feel free to POST general comments and in PARTICULAR if you see something which strikes you as too low/high quality or something which is incompatible with the rest of the system. I have done my best to make sure everything fits together but I'm not expert

Here is what I have so far:

Case
Coolermaster Centurion 5 Silver
http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Cases/MIDI+Tower/Coolermaster+Centurion+5+Silver?productId=16357£43

PSU
Antec TruePower Trio 650W PSU - With 3x 12v Rails and 120mm Fan
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/114933
£80

Motherboard
ASUS P5B Socket 775 Core 2 ready P965 chipset onboard audio ATX
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/113965
£66

Processor
Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 (2.4ghz) Socket 775 FSB1066 4MB Cache Retail Boxed Processor
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/112706
£132

Optical Drive 1
Samsung Black DVD RW
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/127260
£20

Optical Drive 2
Samsung Black DVD RW
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/127260
£20

Hard Drive 1
Seagate 7200.10 320GB SATAII/300 8.5ms 7200RPM 16MB Cache - OEM
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/115418
£49

Hard Drive 2
Seagate 7200.10 320GB SATAII/300 8.5ms 7200RPM 16MB Cache - OEM
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/115418
£49

Sound Card
Creative X-fi Music
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/112512
£50

Video Card
BFG GeForce 8800GTS 320mb
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/125183
~£185

RAM
OCZ 2GB DDR2 6400 CL 4-4-4-15 PLATINUM XTC
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/116755/rb/28153735679
~£80


OS
Windows XP Home s/ SP2
http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/114048
£52

Total: £819.00Spend more on the motherboard, or at least choose a different one.
Aim for one with two PCI-Express X16 slots so you can add another graphics card later for more performance rather than replacing your current one.

Other than that, the PC looks great.
Very nice specification, very nice price.see if you can add another 8800gts and swap that mobo for this one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813135022
I know they don't ship to europe, but just something like that.Thanks guys, I'll have a look around at some other mobos

Are you viewing with one program and trying to DELETE with another? That could cause it.

If not, try DELETING in safe MODE.Safe Mode - Tap F8 while BOOTING before the Windows logo appears.

Computer =Sony PCV 7764 (Vaio).Motherboard=ASUS A7N266-VX O/S=XP-Pro SP2.Integrated Sound card.
Problem=Windows Media Player cannot play the file because there is a problem with your sound device. There may not be a sound device installed on your computer, it may be in use by another program, or it may not be functioning properly.Listed under "other devices".All listed items have yellow ? beside each.They are
1.16550
2.Multi media audio controller
3.SM Bus controller
Using Everest under "MIDI music playback" ="no MIDI playback devices"
Obviously i do not get any sound on the speakers from anything which includes 2 optical devices.Multiple programs for sound recording/playback and a 56k modem.
Although i have owned this computer for over a year it has not been one which i have used much. I am now starting to software configure it to become a much more used device and thus have just discovered this problem.When i use either the device manager or the windows driver wizard to update or reinstall drivers it says "no software could be found--hardware not installed."
Questions? Suggestions please. truenorthGo to this page:

http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/select-system.pl?DIRECTOR=DRIVER&PRODTYPE=1

Select your country and let Sony detect your model. You may have to install an ActiveX control in order for Sony to scan your system.

You should then be able to locate, download and install the correct driver for your audio device.

Please keep us posted.The Saviour,!st thanks for the reply and the link.2nd-thought i had supplied the correct model # (from back of tower) however when using the link "no model found".Decided to check the front revised model (why there should be 2 different is confusing) anyhow model on front=PCV RXA 842.
Using the link an extensive list comes up http://esupport.sony.com/CA/perl/swu-list.pl?mdl=PCVRXA842&UpdateType=Updates I would appreciate if you could define which one(s) may be relevant as many SEEM applicable or obscure enough to leave doubt in my mind. truenorthHere is a link to the page where you can find the drivers that originally shipped with your system. Hopefully, you haven't made any changes.

http://esupport.sony.com/CA/perl/swu-list.pl?mdl=PCVRXA842&UpdateType=Original

The first item on that page is for your audio driver.

Keep us posted...The following error message appeared during the attempt to access the program from the link (item 1)="title error message box="Sony Application Recovery program"= "This program is not designed to run on this computer". Forced it to a restart for the computer to "verify" computer status to use this program. At restart (before desktop icons loaded) Error message occured= "windows cannot find NV-E20020801J4 ------etc,etc,etc." It is stored in "temporary files"
I should like it to be known the original O/S software on this computer was XP-Home sp2. Due to H/D + other unknown problems to resolve all that i installed a new H/D and installed Xp-Pro sp2 from an original Microsoft O/S disk. I also have win98se installed as a dual O/S on a separate physical H/D. Must indicate an operating system chopice at start up. I do have a reference to a nVidia gforce2gpu installed (but assumed that was associated with the video function )(ie. the monitor) truenorthSo in what operating system are you having probelms with the sound device?

Since you have a dual boot...thanks for letting us know (better late than never as he pulls tooth), you'll have to find an audio driver for the card based on the current OS that's having the issue.

The last link I provided you was for the drivers tha came installed on the original system.The saviour,
Again thanks for the assistance. I am trying to walk the fine line between providing the essentials to solve the problem and avoiding non related "stuff". However now that the subject "pulling tooth" has been raised let me advise you of the following. When i 1st obtained this vaio there were so many problems (generated the most ever views and many pages of dialogue between members) that i really was trying to avoid unnecessary complications. I installed the win98se to enable myself to gain access to a non functioning computer (this after everyone had given up )(including i believe some of the best minds on the CH forums). Since i recovered the computer and did the H/D and O/S installs (win xp-pro) i have never again used win98se. However since you got me thinking i did reboot just now into win98se and tried a cd (music) in that O/S.The default player is "cd-player". It gave all the appearance of playing a track however no sound.also when i used the option in Cd-player to adjust volume no volume tool appeared. If you want to punish yourself and get ALL the info re the earlier problems on this vaio do a search on CH computer software (might be computer hardware--it was over 8 months ago) and type in Sony Vaio and share my fond memories of those earlier problem issues. I do appreciate (and you did caution) "i hope it is the original installation".So i was aware that something other than success could unfold. I would appreciate any additional help you can offer and/or any other question you may wish to pose. truenorthI'm more than willing to help, truenorth...and if I sounded a bit harsh by the "tooth pulling" remark, I apologize.

Let's see...we have two operating systems, correct? XP Pro SP2 and 98SE on a dual-boot configuration with each OS on its own hard drive...am I with ya so far? I certainly hope so...last thing I want is to be on a different page.

Are we running the latest Windows Media player on each OS? Have both of these systems been updated with the latest high-priority updates from Windows Update?

If the above is all true, let's try this...go into the Device Manager of each OS to see where the problem lies with drivers...okay? If you can, please post a pic of the Device Manager showing an image of the problem device(s). We'll take it one system at a time...starting with whichever one you choose.

I await your response...I haven't seen or looked for the thread from 8 Months ago but this sure sounds like a case for a partion sort out and a clean install to me.Into the breach.
Fed; Just to deal with your "clean install' when i finally did get the computer back by using 98se(on it's own physical H/D as master--it was the only H/d in the computer at that stage as the offending one with Xp-home had been removed--which is the way that deleted H/D to this day remains).I then added a brand new H/D out of the box (as a slave) and did a fresh brand new install of Xp-Pro sp2 to the slave. Then after that was successful i renamed the H/D's --reversing their order.For all intents and purposes up until today i have not used that computer at all.Thus with all due respect i see no practical purpose in doing a "fresh install' as everything else seems to be functioning well.
The Saviour: 1st no offence --i know where you were coming from far too often the absence of info can be a big deterent to solution so i try to give all that i think is relevant--avoiding that which is not--and i do relize that is a personal subjective opinion which may later prove to be less than was required.As i said it is a fine line.
Now on to the rest of your last post.Your portrayal of your 2nd paragraph is correct."Media Player? I don't know--but i doubt it. My preffered player is Music Match. I suppose that as Media player is part of the both O/S's that it is on both--but i have not upgraded it on either.The win98se is of course no longer supported with upgrades from Bill. I have my automatic upgrades set to DEALERS choice and i tend to be selective about which ones i do (as i am on a 56k modem i don't want to give my computers entirely over to Bill when i go online. I tend to emphasise security issues over chacing after newest and "best " software updates--based on the principle "if it ain't broke don't fix it".
Now comes a GREAT insight as to my computer savvy level--as often as i have seen CH members post a pic of an item like you desire --i don't know how to do that--wish i did.Thanks again. truenorth
p.S if you reply today again i SHALL be offline until tomorrow evening but will look for you then.Problem solved.No reinstall.No hardware replacement. Enjoying beautiful sound on integrated sound card on all devices.truenorth You might want to let everyone, who helped you, know how you resolved the issue...

No reinstall...no hardware replacement...

What, the sound card FAIRY came down and waived their magical wand or something?

Like I said...just like pulling teeth...this time I meant it.The Saviour,Hopefully by now you have had the opportunity to read my post re Kaspro's modem problem so i won't repeat the comments to you again here (though they do seem to be reinforced).
The everyone you reffered to seems to be yourself and Fed (and i believe Fed would be interested to know that a reinstall was not required as he/she had suggested).Plus given that i had stated i could not provide your suggested request for "a pic" due to a lack of knowledge and no subsequent reply from you i continued to forge on on my own.If you care to i would encourage you to read any of my past posts where a solution (mine or provided by others) either altered or achieved success to the problem i have given a full explanation of it.No there was no intervention from "a sound card fairy" but there definetly was a "something". Do you seriously believe that your snarky statements are condusive to a cooperative congenial forum?No disrepect intended. However it is not a good practice to bring out again a comment that you have already appologized for.Just a suggestion but perhaps you might want to try another approach. ;)truenorth"Just when you think you're out...they keep dragging you back in..."

truenorth...

I had no intent of researching a post from 8 months ago...and still don't.

This will be my last post regarding this issue...

If you or anyone think my reply would be considered "flaming" then do with it as you will...I could really care less.

I have helped more than my share of users within the CH Forum Community resolve issues they were having...beit hardware, software, web design...whatever. Within these posts are the tools...other users, such as yourself, need when they experience problems such as the one you described here.

Now...although Fed and myself were the only ones who assisted you...do you think you're helping anyone else by simply stating:

Quote from: truenorth on September 18, 2007, 08:19:03 AM

Problem solved.No reinstall.No hardware replacement. Enjoying beautiful sound on integrated sound card on all devices.truenorth

Do you seriously believe that your snarky statements are condusive to a cooperative congenial forum?

i need a way to test if this motherboard i have or CPU i have is bad, the motherboard is a socket LGA775 foxconn NF4SLI7AA, the CPU is a pentium d 805 smithfield 2.66/2m/533. recently when i installed a tuniq tower on my CPU, my computer started to boot fine, then it just shut off in the boot process and would not show video, or EVEN heat up the chipset, GPU (i have tried several video cards), or the CPU. the reason as to why i am unsure if the CPU or motherboard is bad is because the northbridge heatsink popped off while booting, i did not notice this untill after it TURNED off. my guess is that the Nvidia Nforce4 chipset cooked when the heatsink popped off. i do not have another motherboard to test this hardware on, all i have is 478 boards and this socket A board around here. so, are there physical signs that i can look for to see if the northbridge is burnt out, or if the CPU is bad? or, which, im HOPING isnt the case, the motherboard and CPU are fried?

as a note, when i removed the RAM, and powered on the system, it did not give me any BEEP code. also, i have tried video cards in the PCI, and PCI-E 16x slots, neither seem to function, and strangely enough, none of the fans plugged into the motherboard power on with the system. the power supply has been tested in this system and is stable, so has the PCI video card. i HIGHLY doubt its a sudden RAM failure, because it would be beeping if it was, i tested this board when i got it to ensure it had a beep code for no ram detected. the tuniq tower was SNUG, it cannot over tighten and damage the CPU, its designed so it cant. all of the capacitors look good on the motherboard, i know a blown or damaged cap when i see one, and i see none on this board. i am beginning to think its the board, but i am not 100% sure, only about 90%, its the 10% unsure factor thats bothering me. yes, for the point of stating it, EVERYTHING was plugged in, the hard drive is functional and in this computer functioning properly as i type this. as i said, i have no other board or CPU to test on this system, but all logic would say that its the CPU. however, i would like the advice of anyone who can help. thanks in advance. oh, the RAM is a gig stick of super talent PC5300, DDR2 667.

Hi
Can anyone TELL me how to create partition on pen drive.
I have sandisk 4GB cruzer micro USB falsh drive.
I want to create 1GB partition. How can I do?
Thanks in advance.See if this helps.

And remember, if you want something, Google is always the way to go!I know that. My first prefrence is always google. On google I found that any software is required for the partition but it can't help me. I also search on manufacturer site. On there I can't find anything.
So you guys please help me.

Also and repeate that I want to create partition on PEN DRIVE not on normal harddisk. So, help me in this manner.I have never partitioned a pen drive and my regular partitioning tool (Partition Magic) does not recognise my pen drive (Kingston data traveller).

However Paragon-Partition-Manager v8.5 recognises the pen drive as a basic HARD disk so should allow partitioning. P-P-M v8.5 is currently available FREE at this site. (Link courtesy of Patio)

Please post back with your results, positive or negative. Thanks..



Are you using WINDOWS XP? Have you tried using it's Disk Management tools? In other words:
Right click on MY COMPUTER and click Manage
Look on the left pane and find "Disk Management"

I haven't tried this with a flash drive but, if I wanted to partition one, I surely give it a try before buying partitioning software. I found a forum discussion where the technique was suggested.Why do you want to partition it nency.jariwala, I'm just a naturally curious person.Dusty you give me the site is for harddisk partition or PENDRIVE partition? As I read it I found only harddisk partition.

I have windows XP op. I checked disk manager but not work. It can't give the partition option as give in the HDD.

Someone asked me that is that possible to create partition in pen drive. That's only stuff. Not a big at all.

But I also curious that it possible or not.Thanks for coming back at us nency.jariwala.

The link I gave is to download the Paragon-Partition-Manager.

Like you I didn't find any relevant information on partitioning a pen drive on the WWW or mention of it in program documentation. However I ran Partition Magic Pro which did not recognize my pen drive at all, then I ran P-P-M which did so I thought you might like to try partitioning with P-P-M. Nowhere I can find does it say that P-P-M will partition a pen drive but I thought you might like to give it a try.

Good luck

Hi i just got my new laptop today and its great but i felt the POWER converter (big bulky thing) and it almost burned my hand - thats how hot it was- so should i report this or is this just normal (which would go against my better judgement) so as stated before is this too hot?

thanks for any help you can PROVIDE Out of curiosity I just picked up an old power adaptor that was on my desk.
It had some tiny symbols on it and among them was one indicating a thermal cutout with a temp rating of 115C.

Almost burning your hand would PUT it around 70C I would think.
Carefully inspect yours to see if you can find any temp ratings on it.

Failing that you could EMAIL the manufacturer or look in the book you got with the laptop for specifications, they're usually right at the front or at the back.

Almost burning your hand sounds OK to me but check it out just in case.

Having had windows nearly die on my pretty busted up laptop, I decided to delete windows and get linux, after I deleted windows I discovered that my CD Drive is broken MAJOR BUMMER. However I now have a connector to go into a regular hard drive slot on a PC, and all I have to do is plug it in (easy) and then put a new OS on it.

One problem, I have no idea how. Help Please!

Thanks in advanceOk so if I'm understanding this CORRECTLY you have used a connector to connect your laptops hard drive to your main PC's motherboard? And now you want to install the version of Windows that's on your PC onto your laptop?No I want to install linux on that hard drive. not SURE its possible though...Do you have a Linux CD? You will need one. What you can do is just format the hard drive and then install Linux. You don't need to have it connected to your desktop to do this.I do if my CD drive is broken.Just plug in the harddrive have it set to MASTER, it might not actually matter if its in master but you won't need your other hard drive ANYWAYS. Boot from the linux cd, and install. I suggest Ubuntu personally.

-Mike

Does Computer Games AFFECTS LAPTOP monitorUhh no...
If you want a better answer give US some more DETAILS on what you want to know.

Motherboard - ASUS M2R32-MVP
CPU - AMD Athlon 64 AM2 6000+
PSU - OCZ GameXtream 700W


Hi, a quick question, the psu power leads have a 20 pin atx with an extra 4 pin cable attached to it that has 24 imprinted on it, I connect the 20 pin to the main power socket on the motherboard which leaves a 4 pin space? Do I attach this other 4 pin cable with 24 imprinted on it alongside the 20 pin on the mainboard?
Also their is another 4 pin socket CLOSE to the cpu which has (ATX12V) what is this for and what do I connect to it? I have 2 other 4 pin power cables labled CPU1 and CPU2 from my psu. what are these for?

Any help would be much appreciated Yes you plug in the 4 pin CONNECTOR (marked 24 pin) next to the 20 connector.
The 4 pin connector close to the CPU is for CPUs that need an extra 12v connection. (I believe your processor does need it.) Plug in one of those 4 pin connectors marked CPU, doesn't matter which one.hI thanks for the kind info. my 1st pc I built was a pentium 4 with a gigabyte motherboard. I just had the 20 pin main power connector and their wasnt any need for extra power to the cpu. with this NEWER board/psu and cpu however I was scratching my head. what happened was I just connected the 20 pin and also a pci-e power connector to my graphics card, what I got was - power up/cpu fan on/graphics card fan on/hard drive light stayed on/black monitor screen/both dvd drives wouldnt open and my dvdrw drives busy light stayed on. . maybe it all just didny have the power cap'n'. Ill try what you offered. thank you very much You've just described the symptoms of the classic "forgot to insert a 4 pin power connector". I think most PC builders have tried that one, I know I have. Hilarious thing is - I sent the item back to the website I purchased it from to get it checked for faults and they are sending me a replacemant as they found a fault in the board how weird is that?, see when you say the 4 pin power connector (the 1 connected to the 20 pin cable or the cpu 4 pin power connector? sorry I am slow hence my username It was the extra one near the CPU socket I once forgot to plug in... I even rechecked the connections countless TIMES but somehow completely overlooked that plug. Did a lot of head scratching that day.
The effect is pretty much the same though since they're both extra 12v connections. (They're both for the CPU too.) Modern CPUs need a lot of extra juice.

Quote from: slowboy on September 13, 2007, 03:04:31 PM

Hilarious thing is - I sent the item back to the website I purchased it from to get it checked for faults and they are sending me a replacemant as they found a fault in the board how weird is that?

Hi,

I am a reasonably experienced user but this PROBLEM has totally confused me!

I am switching from a Dell 2405WFP monitor (24" widescreen, 1900x1200) to a Dell E228WFP (22" widescreen, 1690x1050). I am ACTUALLY going to use two of these in dual monitor but that is irrelevant here.

I am using DVI plugs for both my 2405 and E228.

My computer (custom BUILT, with a 8800GTS gfx card and running Vista x64 ultimate) will not boot onto the screen.

I can boot with my 2405, switch the plugs and the display will output fine onto the E228, but if I say restart from there, nothing will show on the screen, not even BIOS.

Interestingly when I connected the E228 up to the second DVI port when using the 2405, Vista recognised it but said "Generic Non-PnP Screen" as opposed to "Generic PnP Screen" (which my 2405 shows as). I could also not extend my desktop onto the monitor from this situation.

I have tried updating, disabling, and reinstalling NVidia graphics driver.

Basically the only way I seem to get my computer to display onto this monitor is by tricking it and switching the plugs.

Any suggestions? Any help WOULD be massively appreciated! I was excited to receive these screens and have never had these kind of problems with screens before, they have always worked STRAIGHT out of the box.

I have an Acer travelmate laptop, and had been using it almost 2 years now. For the last 3 weeks the monitors slowly fades away into blank after just 10-15 minutes after I log in. Although I can still hear SOUND audio from a friends skype while this happens. I had to restart my computer again to see what am TYPING and after 10 - 15 minutes the monitor fades and blank again. I tries System restore and also checked the cooler fan both WORKING correctly. What would be the cause of this problem and what will I do to solve it.This sound like a component failure in the monitor PORTION of the laptop. The only thing to do is have it checked by a competent repair person as working on laptops are infinitely harder than desktops.

Alan <><

Hi all
Looking to (maybe) upgrade the family desktop
At the minute it has an AMD Sempron 2400+ (socket A), SIS integrated grahics, 512Mb RAM
Any ideas where I could get a more powerful Socket A processor from, reasonably cheap? Unfortunately upgrading the motherboard isn't an option, the guy who built the PC loaded a dodgy COPY of XP Pro and did a runner before we found out so no re-activation (I think)
Recently upgraded to 512Mb RAM from 256Mb, but still 2 mem slots free so would some more RAM be a cheap way to increase performance? I know it helps but was just wondering how much money I was looking at vs performance increase
Also how much difference would buying a cheap graphics card make? Only an old one for about £30 odd, like a Radeon 9250 or something, but would it help? Not looking for games performance, just wondering if it would speed up general use? The integrated graphics use 32Mb of RAM so I know it'd free up that but would it make much difference beyond that?
The PC is used mainly for web browsing, instant messaging and office tasks, but is painfully slow (no malware, defrag regularly)
Any ideas?
ThanksHow far you can go CPU wise depends on the MBoard itself which isn't listed...

More RAM will certainly let that machine run smoother...

An inexpensive but better vid card would also improve things but this is where i would spend the least since it might not be worth it when you do finally get a new Mainboard.

All in all yes your performance will be better but to expect mind-boggling speed changes is unrealistic.
If you plan on keeping that machine around for another 3 or 4 years i say go for it...

Hope this helps.

patio. 8-)

How are you getting XP updates on that machine ? ?
Any recourse at all on the builder of this machine ? ?
If he found out that MS was about to get involved he just might supply you with a shiny new MS XP CD...Motherboard isn't listed because I don't know what it is
At the minute I'm on my laptop and the desktop's off, it takes an age to boot up so I'll find out the motherboard some other time
Also meant to mention it only has an AGP graphics slot
I'm not expecting major speed changes, just to make it a little more responsive
To be honest I don't expect it to last much LONGER, maybe another year or two, then it'll be scrapped and we'll get a brand new one
Although this doesn't really affect me, I have a nice shiny new laptop lol
So probably the best I could do is add some more RAM and perhaps a cheap vid card? Very limited budget by the way which is why it says "cheap" and "reasonably priced" all over my post
I am getting some XP updates through automatic update service, but only the critical ones - it FAILS all validation checks so only critical security updates and the like, MS Update site doesn't WORK
No contact details for the builder, the number he gave us mysteriously stopped working a few months after we bought the machine....
Plus it was bought about 2 years agoAs to the builder don't lose any sleep on it...everything you do in life comes back to you so he'll get his...

You probably will be able to find an AGP card for about the $$ you wanted to spend but spend no more ...AGP is on it's way out.

To find your MBoard and everything else possible you need to know about that machine DLoad and run Everest Home when you get back to the desktop...

As to the RAM you also don't want to spend too much but a stick of 512 should be fine...travel to Crucial.com and enter in the info you get from Everest and it will tell you exactly what type of RAM will match that machine. I would buy it though a mass retailer as crucial's prices are on the high end.

Last but not least maybe shop around for a legit Win2K CD... it's XP without alot of eye-candy.
You will wind up with a stable, faster system with full MS support...

Let us know,
patio. 8-)Im not really computer literte but apparently these are meant to be quite good. If your in the U.K look here
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/



ChrisI am in the UK and I've heard of Overclockers.co.uk
Very nice gear but a little expensive
Looking at http://www.dabs.com for some stuff like the vid card - they have some old ones for about £25 or so, might help a little because game performance isn't really an issue
I was thinking of getting a 512Mb stick, when I get chance I'll use Everest or Sandra (one's already loaded on, can't remember which) and see what memory I need
Only real problem is the CPU, nowhere sells Socket A processors any more
There are a few on ebay but they're either broken, untested, too expensive or even worse than the current one
Anyway thanks for the info, I'll hit the web tomorrow and see what I can find
CheersAfter you find out how high that CPU can go on that board let me know. I'll shop around as well...

patio. 8-)

p.s. i would not buy a CPU or RAM from EBay ...but that's just me.I have a Foxconn K7S741MG-6L / K7S741GXMG-6L motherboard
According to the website it supports AMD Athlon XP/Sempron/Duron
http://www.foxconnchannel.com/upload/Compatibility/200606271024427474K7S741GXMG.htm
This seems to be a table of all the processors it supports
Hopefully this helpsIf you want to make it more responsive, you should look into cleaning or reinstalling Windows.

The hardware will still function the same as the day you bought it on unless you neglected it or it is damaged.I can't reinstall Windows because as I mentioned it's a dodgy copy and the guy did a runner, so we don't have an XP CD
As for cleaning Windows, I use CCleaner, defrag regularly, and have applied pretty much all the tweaks I can find or think of
If there are any cleaning procedures or tweaks etc you think might be useful, please post themYou should buy a legal copy of Windows XP.That computer really should perform fairly well for the purposes you mentioned. Those tasks are not very demanding. Of the hardware upgrades you mentioned, I think the video card makes the most sense. Even a low cost AGP card is going to make a very noticeable difference. However, you might look at the options in your BIOS for setting the amount of video memory; you might be able to increase that to 64MB. Try it and see whether it makes a difference.

However, getting a legitimate copy of Win XP, or maybe Win 2K, formatting the hard drive and doing a fresh installation of Windows may make that computer perform well enough that you no longer feel a need to do any hardware upgrades to do the things it's being used for.Unfortunately I can't afford a legal copy of XP
As it was supposed to come with the computer, it does seem a little harsh that I have to fork out more money to buy something I should already have when it's not our fault that it's not legal
As for setting the video memory higher in the BIOS, wouldn't that just take memory away from Windows and allocate it to the integrated graphics? Forgive me if I'm missing something but wouldn't that therefore lower overall performance except in 3d games, something the computer is hardly EVER used for? Besides, I'm unable to access the BIOS. There is no POST screen or anything, just a black one. I've tried pressing delete, all of the F1, F2 etc keys, escape, enter and many others but I can't get into it.
And about the performance vs tasks it's used for - although it is mainly used for less demanding tasks, it is being increasingly used for more demanding ones (can't think of any off the top of my head at the minute though...)
ThanksQuote

As for setting the video memory higher in the BIOS, wouldn't that just take memory away from Windows and allocate it to the integrated graphics?

Until you figure out to get into the BIOS, you'd better forget the idea of installing an AGP video card because you may need to access the BIOS to disable onboard video.

What maintenance procedures, if any, are being applied to that computer? Any disk cleanup tools used periodically? How long since hard drive was defragged? Is it free of viruses and spyware? How many processes are normally running? Could some of those be disabled? How much free space, percentage-wise, is on the hard drive?

I have a Macintosh 1 GHz PowerPC G4, 1MB L3 cache, 512 MB DDR SDRAM running OS X Version 10.4.10.
I recently bought a Canon Pixma iP4300. All was well until I tried to print a label on a DVD USING the supplied software, CD-LabelPrint. It refused to print and presented the following error message:

Error Number 1851
Printing cannot be executed because the Inner Cover is open.
1. Check that the CD-R tray has been removed.
2. Close the Inner Cover, and then press the RESUME button on the printer. Printing will restart.

Well of course the inner cover was open. You have to open it to insert the CD-R tray. I checked all the settings:
Under PAGE Setup I selected "Format for: iP4300", "Paper size: CD-R Tray F", "Orientation: Portrait", "Scale: 100%".
On the Print Label Sheet under "Printable Label" I selected "All" (and on a subsequent attempt I tried "selected").
On the Print dialog box I selected "Quality & Media / Printable disc (recommended)" (and on a subsequent attempt I tried "Printable disc (others)").

I've tried every permutation of the above settings, always with the same result: Error Number 1851.
I downloaded the latest versions of the printer driver and CD-LabelPrint, and again, Error Number 1851.
I triple-checked the printer manual to see if I was inserting the disc correctly. I was.

Am I doing something wrong or is my new printer a dud?

Desperately yours,
Doug Howard
Known problem with Macs. Maybe these will help... I have a Pixma 4200 and it works fine on DVDs with Windows XP.

See here

http://pixma.ulmb.com/index.php/119/2006/10/04/canon-pixma-ip4300-cd-printing-instructions.html

and here

Tray Rejection General Guide

http://pixma.ulmb.com/




Thanks Contrex, that fixed it. The website you sent me to had a link to a page entitled "Tray Rejection and Mac OS X".
Here it is: http://pixma.ulmb.com/index.php/181/2007/08/27/tray-rejection-and-mac-os-x.html
And here's an excerpt:
"Make your design, or import an image for your layout in the sotware. Click the Print button and do all that says on the promts, like choose the right printer (iP3400), the CD-R Tray F format, and then in the print dialog, choose by Quality & Media Printable disk (recommended) and the default Disc tray (and if you print PHOTO’s on the disks, choose to print top quality photo’s).

Then save as a PDF in the left BOTTOM dialog of the print dialog. This is key to the WORKAROUND for us Mac Users!

Open the pdf-file in the Preview software that comes with Mac OS X, do the same settings as above, an then print it. It’ll now work perfectly to print on your disks. No evil error messages anymore, and I did 4 disks in a row after this solution. So the problems looks like a compatible issue with Mac OS X version 10.4.9 and the latest version of CD-LabelPrint software, version 1.5."

To which I might add make sure you reset Page Setup from within Preview before printing.
A slightly fiddly workaround but it works.

Thanks again,
Doug Howard

Hi all!

A friend of mine had just reinstalled its Windows XP SP2, but very SOON then he found that
one of his internal HDDs which is around 100GB can't be read.
The error is as follows:
[
Can't access G:\
File or directory can't be read.
]

He can see his Desktop and access the main Drive, but not Drive G.
Is it possible to save the data in the drive G?
It seems to me those data are very important to him, coz he felt so sad.Specs on his COMPUTER please?

Is it plugged in correctly, and did he reinstall windows on that HDD or ANOTHER one?

PLUS, it may be setup as read-only and not accessible.Is the drive seen correctly in the BIOS? What are the properties when you right click on the drive in My Computer? What is the file format listed?

Have him answer the above questions and also try This...I got a message from him, knowing the problem has been fixed already.
This is what he's tried: chkdsk G:/f.
He is kinda curious of why the command [chkdsk G:/f.] could fix the
problem, so am I.
Could you explain why the command can help.

Quote from: kwfine on May 28, 2007, 07:46:33 AM

This is what he's tried: chkdsk G:/f.He is kinda curious of why the command [chkdsk G:/f.] could fix the
problem, so am I.Could you explain why the command can help.

Quote from: kwfine on May 28, 2007, 07:46:33 AM

This is what he's tried: chkdsk G:/f.He is kinda curious of why the command [chkdsk G:/f.] could fix the
problem, so am I.Could you explain why the command can help.

Simple explanation:

1. Sometimes data on hard drives can get "corrupted" (scrambled)
2. For this reason Microsoft provide tool called chkdsk
3. Chkdsk is short for "check disk"
4. Chkdsk can read sectors on disk and find errors.
5. Often it can fix these errors.

I have a THIN GREEN line on the l/h/s of my screen, does any one know how to remove it?If it is LCD screen, it could be a hardware problem. if it is a laptop, it could need a new connecting RIBBON cable.

If you GET the same in Safe Mode, then Contrex is correct.

Alan <&GT;< Try rubbing lightly on the back of the screen this may help...

I had a monitor lcd with same problem thin green line; i droped the screen on the ground and when i picked it up again the green line was gone.....

Having an issue with either software or hardware and trying to print projects in Pagemaker 6.52 to a Epson 4800 Stylus Wide Format Color Printer through use of Windows XP Pro SP2 computer.

Project is small in SIZE and when sending it to the printer and you have the printer properties OPEN you see the job spool the 2 pages then disappear as it would if the task printed. This is the only printer on the network, so it is not printing elsewhere. And sometimes documents print ok and other times they do not. There is no one detail that can attribute to the issue I am seeing which is why I posted this, because I am puzzled by it.

If you reboot the printer and computer the problem STILL exists. If you go out to Epsons web site and download and install the latest drivers including trying the post script driver, it still acts up.

And ocasionally you send a job to the printer it seems like its not going to print it and so you click print 5 minutes later, and it starts to print, ... but both the prior and current print job to the same sheet of paper or not at all.

Called Epson and they ran me through a diagnostic which came up fine and when printing other than Pagemaker documents they all print fine.

Called Adobe and paid $200 for 12 months support contract for Adobe Pagemaker 6.52 and they said that Pagemaker 6.52 is not supported by Windows XP Pro and suggested downgrading to Windows 2000 SP4.

Cant DOWNGRADE to Windows 2000 because user has software that requires Windows XP environment, including Shadow Copy functionality in case they accidentally delete a file, they can retrieve it even if it is not in recycle bin.

So I am looking for any suggestions or tricks on how to get this to operate correctly. It seems like all 3 companies Microsoft, Epson, and Adobe are pointing the finger at the other as to why I have this problem, and the only one ADMITTING that there could be a problem is Adobe suggesting that they do not support Windows XP with Adobe Pagemaker 6.52.

Thanks for your suggestions...

Dave

My SCREEN becomes black and wabts to do recovery. Errors reported and the only way to START the computer is to unplug the computer. Please help
What happened before this started?
What MODEL of SONY PC is this?
What protection do you have?
And when does this happen?

Vista wouldnt install when my XP drive was ATTATCHED because it SAID "windows installer cannot ASSIGN [my xp drive] a LETTER." is there a way around that?

Hope someone can shed some LIGHT please with this problem.
recently my cd drive has been operating quite erratic , it seems to work problem free most TIMES then quite recently it has started acting up, not burning properly , not reading media-data and now it has a blank Cd and it won't eject.
I don't want to switch it off as it would boot from the DISC drive and then i would be really stuck.so if anyone can HELP i would most appreciate it
many thanx in advance If the CD is blank it won't boot from it.The emergency method to open a CD/DVD drive is to straighten out a paper clip...
Then look for a small hole in the front of the drive and insert the clip there and press...
This woeks with or without power,Quote from: PATIO on September 15, 2007, 07:08:52 PM

The emergency method to open a CD/DVD drive is to straighten out a paper clip...
Then look for a small hole in the front of the drive and insert the clip there and press...
This woeks with or without power,

dell dimenison 4600 mini tower
30gb harddrive
2 mb memory
cd/cd r/w and read dvd

my computer (event log) is telling me that i have a harddrive problem and need to backup my drive. i thought of trying a second harddrive but, worry about changeing the drive letters for my cd r/w or the r/dvd. so, i am asking if someone can tell me what type of EXTERNAL drive i should get. i a leaning towards the type of houseing that will allow me to change the harddrives in it. i know nothing about the new USB 2.0 externals.

THANKS for your help.

tazpaigeYou should get an external hard drive enclosure kit if you plan on switching around the hard drives as the externals. Otherwise, just get an external hard drive. I believe that you can boot from an external USB hard drive by changing the settings in the BIOS.An earlier post i was involved with by someone other than myself if i remember correctly stated that one could NOT boot from an external drive for the O/S XP.truenorth Ok sorry I got confused with something else. Quote from: truenorth on September 16, 2007, 04:33:47 PM

An earlier post i was involved with by someone other than myself if i remember correctly stated that one could NOT boot from an external drive for the O/S XP.truenorth

Dear users
Which is the best TV card (internal) for PC which can be USED with the cable TV not sure. If I were buying one, I would check newegg and get a half-way cheap one and of course check the reviews on them.
Cable tv ... No , your out of LUCK with direct connection

Most units should have atleast A/V outputs ... KNOWN as rca jacks
These you can connect to pc capture hardware .

Avermedia dvd ezmaker gold pci ... cheap , yet very good QUALITY .
They have another UNIT which costs a bit more , but includes dvb viewing and recording .

Okay, well, there are black/grey bars running off things. It's hard to explain. But it's driving me crazy!
I don't know how to put the picture in this post but the link shows what it's looking like.
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c96/xxpunk_assxx/Screen.jpg
Maybe that will help. What's wrong with it? The people at NVIDIA were NO help. Maybe it's just that the graphic card is dying... I don't know. Help!! <3AsHThe two most likely culprits are the graphics card and the monitor. The LATTER is much easier to test. Test out a different monitor on your COMPUTER and see if it still has problems. If the problem is still there, then it is most likely your card.Turn system off , DISCONNECT vga cable from video card .
Then reconnect the cable twice without securing it .
Now reconnect it , secure it , and TRY again .

These are normally associated with the screen having an issue , and needs servicing , before it quits working .

Well,as mentioned above by CBMatt I have had 2 graphics cards go bad.

Both times it looked like the picture you provided.

I recently bought a plug n PLAY segate external hard DRIVE to back up several years of files, is there anyway or any PROGRAM that I can use to password protect the entire drive? What I would like is to create a password to access the drive itself instead of pw's for the files inside. Thanks in advance

Cryptainer LE Free Encryption

pcwin.com/Utilities/Cryptainer_LE_Free_Encryption_Software/index.htm

I want to record my children onto my computer so I can burn it to disk, but I am having trouble. I use image mixer, insert my mic, and start recording, but it doesn't register anything. Am I maybe MISSING some special hardware?Are you saying your microphone isn't recording your speech..?


Tony Yes. Actually my computer isn't recognizing my mic at all. I tried updating my drivers for my SOUND card (ac'97?) now I have no sound. This sucks : (Sound working. Updated driver. Still not recognizing mic.ok try this.....

oK go to your sound icon in the bottom right hand side near the in the task bar ... double left click .... make sure you can see microphone there .... when it is there .... is advanced underneath it ... if not go to options and click advanced then and it will be ..... click on advanced under your microphone slider and you will see some box's under (other controls) make sure microphone BOAST 1 is checked ...


Now try it


Tony


Try unmuting the mic in the sound mixer. Double click sound icon in tray
In new WINDOW that appears , click Options , then Properties
Select Recording
Select Microphone
Click Ok

Microphone is now displayed in audio control panel
Select it by placing a tick in box
Slide its slider to about 3/4's up ... not all the way
In that advanced button option hides "boost" ... do use it , unless you need to
Close audio control panel by hitting the X box in upper right corner

Mic should be connected to PINK connector on audio socket on pc .

Should that fail , suspect bad mic .

----

Please refer to motherboard manual setup .

Some motherboards , if not all modern units , have a connector on the motherboard for connecting front audio panel connectors prebiult into case ... which can disable those actually fitted on the motherboard .

The motherboard manual will SHOW how these must be set , in order to prevent issues .

Yesterday I installed a second HD (an old WD 40 GB I had laying around) into my Dell Dimension 4550 to use as extra storage to use while movie editing. I started with two optical drives, the floppy, a Seagate 80 GB HD, and a GeForce 5600 Ultra connected to the PSU. After installing the second HD, which requred the use of a molex extension, my fan, which is usually very quiet, had a higher, annoying pitch to it.

I would assume that this is due to the change in load created by the extra HDD?

I tried removing an optical drive to SEE if that lightened the load enough, but it did not.

I thought I could deal with it, but my tower is up on the desk next to me and I found the NOISE to be too annoying, so I pulled the HD and will have to deal with storage another way (external USB).

Is this pretty common? Is that just something I have to deal with if I want to install a second HD?

PKIf that's an older PSU that's just about a full load on there with 4 drives and a vid card.
What make is the PSU and what is it rated at ? ?

p.s. You'll need to replace it with a Dell unit as there's are almost always propietary. Using another one could damage the system.Quote from: Allochthonous on July 29, 2007, 06:26:23 AM

After installing the second HD, which requred the use of a molex extension, my fan, which is usually very quiet, had a higher, annoying pitch to it.

I thought I could deal with it, but my tower is up on the desk next to me and I found the noise to be too annoying, so I pulled the HD and will have to deal with storage another way (external USB).