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I have been continuously having issues with my HP Envy x360 m6 Convertible (Serial # 8CG6293BJL) due to sudden reboots that turned out to be crashes, according to my dump files. I have thoroughly updated my drivers and checked my HARDWARE, but there doesn't seem to be a problem with either of those. I even conducted stress testing and nothing seemed to happen. The laptop is cooled by a USB powered cooling fan, and the temperatures do not seem to go high enough to cause a  thermal issue. The most recent crash happened when running a Game Boy Advance emulator, the video and sound began to freeze and stutter, and then it rebooted. Before, when a game application wasn't open, it would simply turn off without noise. I do not know if this is of any significance to my problem. Anyways, I posted the dump files using BLUESCREENVIEW, and I hope someone can help me. Currently, due to extenuating circumstances and the non compliance of HP despite being under warranty, I cannot do much to test with the hardware at present or send it to HP to be looked at. Thank you in advance.

==================================================
Dump File         : 080717-30984-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 8/7/2017 5:35:25 PM
Bug Check String  :
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000124
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2       : ffff9685`18bd3038
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+72119b
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 10.0.15063.483 (WinBuild.160101.0800)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+72119b
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\080717-30984-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 15063
Dump File Size    : 262,144
Dump File Time    : 8/7/2017 5:35:46 PM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 080117-31390-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 8/1/2017 11:08:39 AM
Bug Check String  :
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000124
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2       : ffff9981`c26e0038
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+72119b
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 10.0.15063.483 (WinBuild.160101.0800)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+72119b
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\080117-31390-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 15063
Dump File Size    : 262,144
Dump File Time    : 8/1/2017 11:09:01 AM
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : 072817-24390-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 7/28/2017 6:42:01 PM
Bug Check String  :
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000124
Parameter 1       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 2       : ffffe60d`a25d9038
Parameter 3       : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 4       : 00000000`00000000
Caused By Driver  : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+72119b
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 10.0.15063.483 (WinBuild.160101.0800)
Processor         : x64
Crash Address     : ntoskrnl.exe+72119b
Stack Address 1   :
Stack Address 2   :
Stack Address 3   :
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\072817-24390-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 4
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 15063
Dump File Size    : 262,144
Dump File Time    : 7/28/2017 6:42:18 PM
==================================================

purely from a trouble shooting point of view, you have to eliminate a few of the variables.
at the moment it could almost be anything.

first up, from my (limited) experience with game emulators, they can be buggy so the emulator software itself can't be ruled out as the cause.
does it only happen when playing games?

does it happen if just using the laptop for Word, Internet, sort of activities?

can you run it from Safe Mode for a few hours to see if the BSOD happens there as well.
if not, it put more EMPHASIS on drivers being the issue.

also, long shot, you have .483 of Win10, .502 is the latest.No, it happens even when nothing is running actively. It has never happened in Safe Mode. As far as Windows Version is concerned, this occurred because I factory reset the computer after continually getting this problems, both with and without the creator's update. I will update that anyways, however.never happening in Safe Mode would put more of the blame on drivers.
or maybe memory modules.
or in general, software that is running during normal starts compared to software not running when in Safe Mode, like your AV software for example.

what is your AV, and if using one, have you tried not using it and just running Defender for a few days?

if you have clean installed Windows 10, than its native drivers should be OK, did you get any BSOD's straight after the clean install AND before you started loading the PC with your own software and updates?

and on the memory front, if multiple chips, have you tried swapping them over and just running on 1 for a while?I have used Defender and AVG, currently running Defender only. Yes, it has happened when running on base drivers and after updates. Memory wise, I did do a Memtest which came out clear but I can't really take the laptop apart and do memory swaps. Do you ever see the NEW BSOD screen?


Is Kernel Mode Dump File enabled?
https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-hardware/drivers/debugger/enabling-a-kernel-mode-dump-fileNo I have never seen that. I have enabled it now, it was not previously enabled. Will I have to wait for another crash to get the right dump logs?Yes.Instead of crashing this time, it froze and the audio was making a weird buzzing noise. It seemed to be stuck on a NOTE. It wouldn't turn off. I forced a hard reboot, and there seems to be no record of what happened in crash logs. It might be worth testing this computer with memtest86 to be sure you dont have a RAM stick with a bad address that is causing the problem. This tool is free to use. https://www.memtest86.com/

Other thing that comes to mind is if the hard drive is acting up it can cause a problem with swap space / page file corruption between what is written to the drive and re-read back to RAM. So test the hard drive with CrystalDiskInfo to make sure no warnings with the health of the drive. This tool is free and will read in the S.M.A.R.T data off the drive which will give you all sorts of info about your hard drive or SSD including an idea as to if its healthy or not. https://osdn.net/projects/crystaldiskinfo/downloads/68126/CrystalDiskInfo7_1_1.zip/I think he should check device manager for any Yellow !!'s...

Sounds like missing/corrupt drivers to me.Check if you have IDT Audio on your machine.  If you do simply uninstall it & then restart your machine

Hi.
I can connect to internet via direct ADSL/Wimax wi-fi connection. But these services are limited here.
I need to use my unlimited internet SERVICE and it needs broadband connection.

I can't connect via broadband connection.
I choose the wifi, windows successfully connect to that, but when I want to enter username and password from "Broadband connection" this ERROR happens:

"Can't connect to Boradband Connection
The modem (or other CONNECTING device) has reported an error."

Is there any relation between firewall and this problem?


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve SPACE]Your other connection is DSL over a phone line. Are you connecting to a Cable Provider for broadband using a Coax cable connection for broadband. Broadband modems have a Coax connection to them and this requires coax connection and a service provider that offers broadband. MAYBE there is some info missing from your initial posts here and you do have a cable provider for broadband connection?perhaps directly contacting your Internet Service Provider's tech support number would be best in this case.

"The Pop-Up Window That Wasn't There" was my favorite episode of the old Hardy Boys TV series.

I put in new printer cartridges on my HP DeskJet.

Now, when I print, a taskbar button for HP shows up. When I press Alt-Tab, I can see the HP window, but I can't toggle to it. If I Win-Tab, I can click in its 'Close Window' box, but I can't select it and make it my top-most window.

It LOOKS LIKE it's TRYING to SELL me something, or make me sign up for some *censored* HP nonsense. But since I can't actually GET to the window, I can't tell it "No, go away and don't COME back."

(Which I believe was the last line of dialogue in that old Hardy Boys episode).

What do I do?uninstall the printer driver.

Download a new fresh copy of the driver from HP

Install the driver and see if the problem comes back.

Hello everyone. I Just got a BSOD while I was playing League of Legends but I wasn't quick ENOUGH to read what the error was. I have no idea what is wrong.

PC Specs:
Windows 10 Pro
I7-4790k,
4.00GHZ,
16 GB ram
64 bit Operating System
Nvidia Geforce GTX 770
-----------------------------------

I checked my Windows Event viewer and saw some problems.

Error 1.
Windows cannot load the extensible counter DLL rdyboost. The first four bytes (DWORD) of the Data section contains the Windows error code.

Error 2.
The Open Procedure for service "BITS" in DLL "C:\Windows\System32\bitsperf.dll" failed. Performance data for this service will not be available. The first four bytes (DWORD) of the Data section contains the error code.

Error 3.
The Open Procedure for service "ESENT" in DLL "C:\WINDOWS\system32\esentprf.dll" failed. Performance data for this service will not be available. The first four bytes (DWORD) of the Data section contains the error code.

Error 4.
The Open Procedure for service "Lsa" in DLL "C:\Windows\System32\Secur32.dll" failed. Performance data for this service will not be available. The first four bytes (DWORD) of the Data section contains the error code.

Error 5.
The Open Procedure for service "MSDTC" in DLL "C:\WINDOWS\system32\msdtcuiu.DLL" failed. Performance data for this service will not be available. The first four bytes (DWORD) of the Data section contains the error code.

Error 6.
Unable to open the Server service performance object. The first four bytes (DWORD) of the Data section contains the status code.

Error 7.
The Open Procedure for service "WmiApRpl" in DLL "C:\WINDOWS\system32\wbem\wmiaprpl.dll" failed. Performance data for this service will not be available. The first four bytes (DWORD) of the Data section contains the error code.
-----------------------------------------------------------------

If anyone could help me figure out why I had a BSOD PROBLEM, it would be greatly appreciated.
If this was your first bsod, don't worry about it. If it happens again in the near future, please do the FOLLOWING: 

Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyThank you for the quick reply. Unfortunately Blue Screen Viewer didn't find any crashes. This isn't my first crash but it has been awhile. If something comes up again I'll be running back for help. Thanks again.Hey, I'm back and another blue screen unfortunately.. It said critical PROCESS died.Follow the info above and Post the error...BlueScreenView doesn't capture anythingNvm, I found the problem. It was Logitech Gaming Software that was BDOSing my pc.

How to get rid of the Firefox Start Page in Windows 10?

Thank you in advance for your help.

guzeppi
Open Options and choose a different home page.
Thank you again.

I tried your method,but can you kindly give me a practical example how to fill up the page where you are asked to CHANGE your homepage?

Pardon me for being a slow learner!

Joe Busuttil

   assuming you have the latest FF version.

go to Options > General tab (you'll already be there) > Home Page field > type in www.google.com or whatever URL you want to be the start page when FF starts.

close down FF, restart FF and it should take you to that site you just typed in.I use IGHome...customisable with widgets...
If you want to delete your home page customizations then Click the menu button and choose PREFERENCES. Select the General panel. In the Startup SECTION under Home Page, click Restore to Default.huh?
the OP wants to get rid of the FF start page, you've just told him how to restore it.

Thank you for an excellent place for information. I've been trying to identify a specific Samsung phone model that was connected to my laptop via USB. The VID is clear, Samsung, and some sources indicate the PID is an s3 or s5, but I read in another old post at Stephen J. Gowdy that the PID NUMBERS 6860 and 6866 are more generic for any Samsung phone.  Here is what I see under Devices in my Windows 10 registry:

 USB#VID_04e8&PID_6860#xxxxxxxx
USB#VID_04e8&PID_6860&MI_00#6&2DOBxxxx&0&0000
USB#VID_04e8&PID_6866&MI_00#6&310Axxxx&0&0000

Do the 6860 and 6866 PIDs actually indicate a specific phone model was connected to my pc? Thanks for any help you can give me.



It's not really useful in that way. The PID is used for the most part to associate a device with the appropriate driver software.

by way of example, The Nexus 4, 5, and 6 as well as the Nexus 6P all have an identical vendor and product ID of 0x18D1 and 0x4EE6.

As a side note, instead of digging in the registry, I'd suggest using a tool like USBDeView to view that information. (It GET's it from the same location, I expect). You might be able to get something more unique, For example my Nexus 6 is listed as a Nexus 6 specifically as the description.Thank you, BC_Programmer. I did try USBDeview and was hoping the reg info would be of some additional help. USBDeview SHOWS the same device various ways. One gives a model, SM-S120VL with a Device Type of Unknown. Another Description says ADB Device with the Device Type as Vendor Specific,  another Description calls it a USB Serial Device with a Description of Communication and, finally, the same device has a Description of USB Composite Device, with an Unknown Device Type.  I guess one phone can be all of those things at once, but it occurred to me that MAYBE this is something other than an S120VL. I know nothing about ADB, but is that a typical USBDeview output when a phone is plugged in to transfer photos? Thanks very much for your help.

My computer BOOTS normally however when it gets to where you get where you enter password, the screen is a blank colored screen. I have the mouse icon, internet, ease of access and shut down/restart. Everything ELSE is blank. I tried f8. It does not work. I can get to f2. In F12, there is one option. I  do not know what to do. What can I do? what is your OS?

on the screen you can get to, when you CLICK Restart also hold down the Shift key, that'll reboot the PC into SAFE Mode, does that work at all?

#1. Taskbar. I have a HP Pavilion G7 series computer. There are two HP icons that were installed when I first got my computer 6 years ago. I have repeatedly rearranged the taskbar( moving the HP icons as far left as I can move them) and locked the taskbar. No matter what when the laptop reboots the dang HP Icons move back to their original positions. How do I put a stop to this. The only thing that I can think of is that some where in the registry it sends a command to the opening sequence and puts that blasted HP crapola where it wants to without my permission. (Who's computer is this anyway)!!!!!

#2. Moving Files and FOLDERS.  The easiest way that I have found is USE the Cut and Paste Method. ( Some may say drag and drop) My understand if I cut the file or folder and paste it it should remove it from the active folder to another folder of my choosing. 90% of the time it does this. But usually if I have a large volume of files/folders to move it will act as though I am just making a Copy of the file/folder instead of moving it from that POSITION. How do I stop this? After chewing over this for awhile I am wondering if the clipboard(temp storage) is getting too full or big and It is merely copying the file instead of moving the file.

$3. Naming folders. SOMETIMES when I name a file it will make the first letter lowercase and the following letters all uppercase.  I will click on the right menu items click on rename the folder and make the first letter upper case and the other letters lowercase. This will look correct until I press enter and it will revert to the first letter lowercase and all the other letters uppercase. I finally will get fed up and just delete the folder and start over. It will work the correct way then! Am I hitting an extra key before naming folder? What should I look for?

Hi all,

I recently bought a new computer for the purpose of gaming. However after setting it up I noticed it was performing regular EVERY day tasks quite slowly (e.g. opening Google Chrome, Spotify and Steam).
 
When opening task manager I noticed that the disk section was regularly sitting at 100%.
I'm not entirely sure what to do as a lot of different sources are suggesting different causes and solutions for this problem.

I have downloaded a program called "PROCESS explorer" and took a screenshot of all the current PROCESSES running.

https://imgur.com/gallery/ydfl8

Any help would be much appreciated

-Alex
I've been having similar issues, please help ozzyrs,
your Task Manager show Disk Defragmenter as the top process using your resources.


try restarting the PC into Safe Mode and checking the speed from there.
this will only bring up the CORE, essential processes needed to run Windows, there'll be no AV software or background defrag task or anything else that could slow it down from a software point of view.


if the speed is 'normal' under Safe Mode, than you have something running that needs to be investigated.
get CCleaner from Piriform (https://www.piriform.com/ccleaner/builds) and go to Tools > Startup and see what is started every time the PC starts.
then go to the Scheduled Tasks tab on that same window and see what can be turned off there.Worth noting: Win10 Safe mode is accessible, among other ways, by holding Shift when selecting the restart option.

Is this an ASUS computer by chance?jokniserous,


suggest you START your own topic so this one doesn't get muddled.
then you can lay out your problem, specs and attempts to fix it in more detail and get targeted responses.

We just bought a new dell laptop and  i'm trying to install itunes. I get an error your system has not been modified. can ANYBODY tell me what to do.

Thank you.
Stango into CONTROL PANEL, Programs and Features and make sure anything published by APPLE is removed.
reboot the PC and try the install again.
make sure you get iTunes from Apple and not some mirror site; https://www.apple.com/itunes/download/

Can you please let me KNOW how to align my desktop icons so that each tier is parallel to the one above it.

Have TRIED "Align to Grid", but it doesn't work the way I want, as it throws the icons to one side of the screen and ruins the alphabetical order of the icons, which I want to preserve.

Thank you in advance for your help.

GUZEPPI

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]right click some EMPTY spot on the Desktop, VIEW > Align icons to gridMany thks, Mark, for prompt reply, and I am glad to be able to tell you that your tip solved my problem.

I WONDER why my previous attempts with "Align to Grid" would not work to my satisfaction. Computer whims, perhaps?!

Kind regards.

GUZEPPI

I have a number of file with same name and DIFFERENT extension in a folder, Originally these files were all in .Jpg format with different NAMES.

like 1.j87 1.j88 1.j89 Now I've to rename each image to different name and extension individually.


How can I rename the files to different names and to .jpg format at once as the number of files is more than 100.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve SPACE]I've USED this utility in the past; http://www.bulkrenameutility.co.uk/Download.php
it's very customisable but have not needed to use it to bulk change the file extensions.

I brought a refurbished computer and it was working fine until I went to turn it on just now. It would not come on at all. I thought maybe it was the plug I was using so changed it. Nothing. It was working fine monday night. Is there a way to fix this or am I out the money?
I had an extra cable plug and I tried that one too no luck. there is no switch on the back of the computer
Please provide make, model and any information taht would identify the unit you bought.
Also, Who sold it?
If it was sold on eBay there are ways to make a claim within a limited time. You would start by contacting the Vendor via the eBay message system.

Some unites have a fuse in the power supply. Once in awhile this fuse will pop prematurely and all you ha veto do is replace it.

Do you live in an area with 120 volt or 240 volt?  Perhaps the 120/240 switch got moved. It there is one, it is on the back of the power supply, near the power receptacle.

Haas there been a lightning storm near you just before this? Sometimes a lighting  stoke may damage just one piece of equipment. Rather rare, but it happens.

Did you find the model number?
HP Compaq 6300 Small factor form and it was NEWEGG. When I contacted them they told me to chat wwith hp who told me it was not under warranty and that might be a faulty motherboardNo lighting that I know of since Saturday and it was running just fine Monday night. there is no 120/240 switch on it. OK. I  did not know what you had, so I was just guessing.
The PC you got is worth about $125 on eBay.
You could try the HP forum , but you mint get more help here. We have a good bunch here tact can give you hints.
Unplug the power cord. Plug it in again and push the start button.
Do any lights come on?
Do you hear fans?
Do any lights on the keyboard flash?

You can get a used motherboard for about $50, but don't do that until you try a few things. Open up the case and see if anything came loose. Like maybe a RAN chip. Rare but it happens and it is easy to check.
The things is to check first the things that are easy to check, but seldom happen. You don't want to spend money and find out it was something else..
Other things easy to check.
Disconnect the power and data to the DVD drive. Maybe  the DVD drive failed.
Same with the Hard Drive. The system can power on without the hard drive and should show some kind of ERROR message on the display.
Again,  even without the RAM present, the system can flash keyboard lights and make beeps. Wroth a try just to see.

Some VENDORS on eBay will sell the whole  box for about the price of the motherboard itself. If it were me, I would buy the the box.  unless I was really sure it is just the motherboard and not the power supply

Here is a document for that model.

www.manualslib.com... Hp Pro6300 Service Manual

Take care when trying to  download manuals. You do not have to buy anything and some sites that offer manuals are scams. The link above is alright, but they try to make it hard and get  your to download  something else.
Hope this is of some help to you. 

The moderator might move this to hardware.
EDIT: The model you have might include options that can make it hard to service. There is a optional special feature to make it hard for somebody to steal you r PC or to use it without your authority. Read over the manual.on the assumption the rig has just been shipped to you, PC's after being moved could have components dislodged, dust relocated etc.


i would take off the cover and remove, clean with a brush (especially wipe the contact pins) on the video card (if it has an add-on one) and the RAM chips, and reseat them.Please share link on the newegg item you purchased. I have yet to see one that doesnt have a warranty for their refurbs. Usually the reburb warranties are handled not by HP but another identity that is reconditioning them. Maybe the person at newegg thought it was a new computer which would be handled by HP if that were the case, but if you specify its a refurb maybe the person will realize that HP isnt involved with the warranty. My guess here is that the person who contacted you assumed it was new vs a refurb in which then it would be with HP which they would be correct, but a refurb I have yet to see any that are handled by the manufacturer of the computer and all are sold with a warranty of some kind varying from 30 days to 1 year for refurbs. The last refurb that I needed to send back was a laptop that had an issue with the touch pad and I was given a contact to a company that sold the computer thru them based out of Tennessee. After contact with them they shipped me a replacement and when it arrived the UPS guy stood there while I took the replacement and put the troubled one back in the box with the shipping label they provided to send it back in. No problems and easy replacement. Only thing with that replacement was that they had to hit my credit card for the second computer, and then I was credited back when they received the problem laptop. This was this way because I wanted an immediate replacement and didnt want to ship out a laptop and not have one while waiting. Otherwise computer shipped back and a replacement is sent back upon receipt of the troubled one which they told me 7 to 10 days and I didnt want to WAIT that long and knew if there was an issue my credit card company would fix the matter of a double charge etc. 

Newegg while I trust them, has been going through some changes in how they have drop ships vs stocking in house etc and are transforming into an amazon type of model where they try to sell everything. Its possible that the person who was in contact with you made a mistake on the warranty holder for that refurb.There are no lights or fans at all. I didn't buy from ebay. I have had the computer for about a week working fineWhere did you buy it from ? ?Newegg and I have already talked to the. Was told to talk to HP who said it was not under warranty. Talked to Newegg again and they want me release some information to someone else. Which could took 5 days to hear from them. And I am just want to get my documents off of itYou're answers are unclear...Newegg warranties refurb PC's they sell...

If all you need is your documents then pull the HDD and move it to a working PC and save what you need...
An external HDD caddy works very well for this.This is the only pc I have. So I lose everything. Newegg said I had to release information to them. This is what the email said "We sincerely apologize for any inconvenience you have experienced with your product or the manufacturer of your product.  In order to assist you in obtaining manufacturer warranty service, we need your permission to release your contact information to the product manufacturer." Which I already know there is no HP warranty on itJust sharing newegg's warranty policy:

https://kb.newegg.com/Article/Index/12/3?id=1770#4

I looked up another HP Desktop also SFF and it said a 90 day warranty, but warranty terms vary between models offered. I'd be interested in looking into which one you purchased to see whats listed for warranty terms and contact info.

Here is the one I looked up for warranty info which may vary from yours: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883287634&ignorebbr=1



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Already contacted  Newegg and that is the email they sent me.You SAY you got a HP 6300 from Newegg.
You say you had it for a week.
Here is a link to Newegg:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Description=hp%206300%20pro%20small&Submit=ENE
Her is photo:

Newegg has warranty on items sold as refurbished, NOT HP.

*censored*, a win is a win, take them anyway they come.   

I have a dell laptop inspiron 15,  recently it beeps 5 times on startup meaning to replace to replace the CMOS battery. I found out the battery is soldered in when I took it to GEEK squad.  How can I replace the CMOS battery, or do i have to since everything else works fine, only the loud beeps are annoying.  Dell said I have to replace the MOTHERBOARD, but that is a big expense.  Help.It needs REPLACED...however you decide to do it

Not a User job BTW....get estimates and decide if it's worth it or not.if it only beeps at startup, can you live with that?

the hassle of a flat battery is the laptop will lose date/time and other settings each time it boots - like your boot order and such.
no real biggie and it may not even impact you if the default BIOS settings are what you had/need anyway.
plus Windows will automatically set the date/time once it talks to the time servers.I disagree at one point,,,eventually it will not let the HDD/OS boot properly at all.you may be right, and I haven't seen it get that bad. 
worst I've had is it'll pop up a warning at startup that the BIOS is wrong and hit F1 to enter setup or F2 to continue, something like that.
I've left a laptop do that for years, but MAYBE other BIOS brands are different.

I have installing Windows 10, but after installing Windows 10 lot of storage can be used than before. It is due to window up-gradation. When I restart my laptop there are two windows appear on startup one is windows 10 and second is windows old. When I install and upgrade a new version of window the PREVIOUS version COULD not be remove or deleted and keep as it in the local disk C. what PROCESS can I used to remove this query.If you boot the system off of a LINUX distro such as Ubuntu or Mint you can  access the drive in an unprotected mode to which you can delete the old Windows install if thats what you want to do to get your free space back. If you do this wrong and delete your current install of Windows you will have problems. I suggest backing up your data to a external drive or cloud storage before DELETING the old windows install which might be Windows.old Quote from: rshari123 on October 16, 2017, 10:40:12 AM

I have installing Windows 10, but after installing Windows 10 lot of storage can be used than before. It is due to window up-gradation.
...

My PC is crashing while loading desktop with Windows 10, STARTED after loading Corsair mouse software. PC will not run long enough for me to make any changes, also I cannot get Win10 to safe mode. let the PC start and the Win10 logo appear, then hold in the power button for 5 seconds to force it off.
repeat until a reboot SAYS something like "Repairing Windows, Please Wait" and it'll take you to the Advanced Startup Option menu where you can try using Restore Points, or Repairing or Refreshing Windows.
usually takes 2 or 3 reboots.You say you can't get to safe mode. What happens when you try?I will try that Mark-thank you
 Allan when I do the shift restart I get to the screen where is has the option of doing the safe mode start , once I click it the pc sounds like it reboots then nothing..I have let it sit for hours on each of the choices-safe mode-repair -reload previous version but nothing. I have not tried the power button thing that Mark suggested, I will try that when I get HOME today.Still crashing once it gets to desktop ... Which Corsair Mouse are you using for model # ?

There might be a reference to others with same issue on Google if a driver is junk, additionally there might be a newer version that has a bug fix from their website.I actually took it back and got another Razer , the PROBLEM is that it will not stay running long enough for me to uninstall the Corsair software or do anything else. It goes down while the desktop is still loading. Sometimes will get a message that says--Preferences.readPrefs
err=2
what=XMLexceptions
where=4
name=PreferencesYou have to get to safemode...follow above instructions...

Searched Google and havent found an exact answer to his one, but I installed Windows 10 64-bit Home on my one system last night to tinker with 10, I looked to see if it would tell me how many days remaining before a key is required and no information found on the system and a mix of answers on google ranging from 7, 14, and 30 days. Anyone know how many days or where to find the value that says how many days are left for the build before a key is required?

Friend of mine said you can install Windows 10 without a key to try it out and demo it and sure enough it actually installed without a key with full functionality from what i can tell so far. I was just curious how long before this trial ends as to if I need to rush through the testing I want to do if its only 7 days or if its 30 days etc I can take my time with demo-ing it some.There is no limit.

After some time period- 30 days, I think- you will be locked out of making any PERSONALIZATION changes, and a few places in Windows will complain that windows isn't activated, like the Settings app/page. Though you can still set desktop BACKGROUNDS via other programs, it will reset you to a black solid colour background every once in a while as well.Thanks for the info BC

Also a oddity is that the smileys don't seem to work when pointing and clicking here at CH with Windows 10 on edge browser. Not sure if I am the only one seeing that issue. I had to make a smiley manually TYPING the : and ) instead. From the above..
We conclude that Microsoft does not want you to  smile
until you activate.  Would be interesting if that were fact.... GeekAlright, I was just trying to be funny.   

Now to be serious. Microsoft support  has been helpful whenever I had an issue with activation. I do recall a 20 day limit on the 32 bit f\version.
BC_Programmer says there is no limit. He is RIGHT. You can still use it to do useful things, juts not some things of less importance. Like changing the wallpaper.

Now I am not suggesting that one use Windows without paying for it. Rather there can be a legitimate need to evaluate it of a long period of time. The might be for testing new equipment or  repair of older equipment. Apparently Microsoft wants people to become familiar with Windows 10 and the tolerance of  non  activated use encourages individuals to explore Windows capabilities.

But it is not free software. You have to pay for it. This issue in this topic is when do you have to activate it. Delayed activation allows time for making hardware changes until the system is optimized.  I found a Dell desktop in the trash, hard drive was missing but it had the Win7-Home PID tag.  Tried to install Win10-Pro & it would not complete the install.  Then tried to install Win10-Home & it completed without issue.  I never entered the Win7 PID but it was activated after the install completed.Computer_Commando,
Thank you for sharing.
I doubt that was an accident.
More likely  Microsoft did it that way on purpose. It could  have made upgrades easier for the OEM, Dell, to do upgrades. But  Microsoft would have little, if any, resewn to tell the world how easy it would be to upgrade a Dell Desktop to Windows  10.

You might guess that the BIOS had a secret area that shows what OS was shipped out for Dell when is was first shipped out from the FACTORY. That would not be hard to implement, and save Microsoft server  time spent of having a server validate the system in a database. Just fetch a secret code from the firmware.


Quote from: Geek-9pm on October 13, 2017, 03:31:19 PM

...
You might guess that the BIOS had a secret area that shows what OS was shipped out for Dell when is was first shipped out from the factory. That would not be hard to implement, and save Microsoft server  time spent of having a server validate the system in a database. Just fetch a secret code from the firmware.

I found this file in C:\Windows\System32 It is called DefaultQuestions and searching the internet got me nothing, I will not insert it as an attachment just in CASE it is malicious. Its short so not to bad to paste. here it is:
{
    "Location": "\\\\scratch2\\scratch\\jennz\\JSON\\DefaultQuestions.json",
    "FreshnessPeriodMilliseconds": 600000,
    "UserActions":
    [
        {
            "ACTIONID": "WindowsShellCoreProvider",
            "EventSequence":
            [
                {
                    "EventType": "ETW",
                    "ProviderGuid": "{30336ed4-e327-447c-9de0-51b652c86108}",
                    "EtwID": 99999999
                }
            ]
        }
    ],
    "Questions":
    [
        {
            "ActionID": "WindowsShellCoreProvider",
            "QuestionID": 1,
            "QuestionType": "5 Stars",
            "QuestionText": "This question should never be asked",
            "ExpiryTimeMilliseconds": 10000,
            "Priority": 1,
            "ReAskTimeMilliseconds": 60000
        }
    ]
}

Its driving me crazy just because it says "This Question Should Never be asked"
If anyone knows what this is and what it does that would be GREAT, the Internet has nothing on it.
Thanks!I believe it is a standard Windows file. I have it on my PC, identical to yours (at least it looks that way)

{
    "Location": "\\\\scratch2\\scratch\\jennz\\JSON\\DefaultQuestions.json",
    "FreshnessPeriodMilliseconds": 600000,
    "UserActions":
    [
        {
            "ActionID": "WindowsShellCoreProvider",
            "EventSequence":
            [
                {
                    "EventType": "ETW",
                    "ProviderGuid": "{30336ed4-e327-447c-9de0-51b652c86108}",
                    "EtwID": 99999999
                }
            ]
        }
    ],
    "Questions":
    [
        {
            "ActionID": "WindowsShellCoreProvider",
            "QuestionID": 1,
            "QuestionType": "5 Stars",
            "QuestionText": "This question should never be asked",
            "ExpiryTimeMilliseconds": 10000,
            "Priority": 1,
            "ReAskTimeMilliseconds": 60000
        }
    ]
}
To QUOTE the Moody Blues...."Why do we never get an answer"...When you are told "don't ask", you should not ask.
  - Ancient Anonymous Sayings.
You do have a point but I am too STUBBORN to stop at that

I have a program ("APowersoft Online") in my Add/Remove Programs that won't go away. When I click uninstall, I get the error message:
File "C:\Users\RJB\AppData\Local\Apowersoft\Apowersoft Online Launcher\unins000.dat" does not exist. Cannot uninstall.

I have tried through Control Panel=>Add/Remove Programs, CCleaner's Uninstall, and Windows 10's squishy "Apps & features" feature.

I have tried going to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Uninstall, but no APowersoft anything appears there.

I have also tried in Safe Mode.

What's Next?https://www.tenforums.com/software-apps/32049-removing-windows-apps-sometimes-leaves-orphan-icons-startmenu.htmlThe Registry Key where it is listed may be in HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\WOW6432Node\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Uninstall rather than the usual place.Thanks. To clarify, Patio, it's not that it's trapped in my Start Menu, it's trapped in my "Add/Remove Programs" list in Control Panel.

BC, I scoured the section of the registry you suggested - a treasure trove! - but, alas, no evidence of "Apowersoft Online Launcher."

Interestingly, I found a whole lot of sketchy uninstall software on the web that addresses this specific application... But I'm not about to add sketchy software in an attempt to remove sketchy software. Am I?

I did a search in my registry and found two entries: "Apowersoft Online Launcher_RASAPI32" and "Apowersoft Online Launcher_RASMANCS", both at the branch
Code: [Select]Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\WOW6432Node\Microsoft\Tracing
(oddly enough, entries for other uninstalled software there). (Export attached - Tracing.zip).

I also found a key at Code: [Select]Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\ControlSet001\Services\dam\UserSettings\S-1-5-21-3516115422-391001653-599890878-1002
called
\Device\HarddiskVolume4\Users\RJB\AppData\Local\Apowersoft\Apowersoft Online Launcher\Apowersoft Online Launcher.exe and one called
\Device\HarddiskVolume4\Users\RJB\AppData\Local\Apowersoft\Apowersoft Online Launcher\unins000.exe (which is the "missing" executable)
I found the same two keys at
Code: [Select]Computer\HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\dam\UserSettings\S-1-5-21-3516115422-391001653-599890878-1002
(subtle difference in location - "CurrentControlSet" vs. "ControlSet001".


There is a whole "apowersoft-launcher" branch at
Code: [Select]Computer\HKEY_USERS\S-1-5-21-3516115422-391001653-599890878-1002\Software\Classes\apowersoft-launcher\shell\open\commandbut it seems to be empty.

At
Code: [Select]Computer\HKEY_USERS\S-1-5-21-3516115422-391001653-599890878-1002\Software\Classes\Local Settings\Software\Microsoft\Windows\Shell\MuiCacheThere are entries
C:\Users\RJB\AppData\Local\Apowersoft\Apowersoft Online Launcher\Apowersoft Online Launcher.exe.ApplicationCompany and
C:\Users\Robert J. Binney\AppData\Local\Apowersoft\Apowersoft Online Launcher\Apowersoft Online Launcher.exe.FriendlyAppName

At
Code: [Select]Computer\HKEY_USERS\S-1-5-21-3516115422-391001653-599890878-1002\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\FileExts\.mp4\OpenWithListThere are multiple entries, including one called "g" (there is "(Default)", followed by  "a" through "g", culminating in "MRUList") The value for "g" string (ha ha) is "Apowersoft Online Launcher.exe".


Last, but not least (this is what EDITORS CALL "BURYING the lede") there is a branch called
Code: [Select]Computer\HKEY_USERS\S-1-5-21-3516115422-391001653-599890878-1002\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Uninstall\{20BF67A8-D81A-4489-8225-FABAA0896E2D}_is1That seems dedicated to Apowersoft Online Launcher (attached - Is This It.zip)


I feel like if I delete this last branch and reboot, everything should be Fonzie.

But even though I have a snazzy Restore Point CREATED, I think I will wait until I hear yall's feedback.

Thanks


[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Yes, I'd SAY delete that key you listed at the end. I'd guess it is actually in your HKEY_CURRENT_USER (HKEY_CURRENT_USER is basically a  shortcut for your user key under HKEY_USERS). Looks like if an install is able to complete without ever receiving admin rights (eg installing to %APPDATA%) it would register itself there instead.Seems to have done the trick.

What's the emoji for head slap!?!?

Thanks for your help, folks.

Just built my new electron sipper workstation that is using a Biostar A68N-5545 with the A8-5545m 1.7Ghz with 2.7Ghz Turbo ( Mobile APU Processor in a Desktop Mini-ITX Board ), and installed Windows 10 64-bit Home Premium to it, and stuffed it into a recycled DELL Dimension 4600 tower which USE to house a Pentium 4 2.4Ghz. Replaced all the IDE drives with SATA, swapped out the old 20-pin power supply with a 24-pin 400 watt, and rewired the front panel LEDS and Soft Power Button to universal so I could connect it to this new board. This board is paired with two DVD-RW drives and a 500GB SATA II Maxtor hard drive that passed as healthy and only has 8700 run hours on it and 529 boots.

Playing around with Windows 10 and wanting to have a way to see resources like I can do with my Windows 7 64-bit system I went on the hunt for a widget or gadget for Windows 10 or some other tool that will show CPU and RAM use.

To my surprise there is a Tool that can be installed to allow for Gadgets to run on Windows 10.

*** Yes there was that Gadget Scare and that's why Microsoft killed them off, but the security vulnerability from what I have read only affects malicious gadgets. I have used the CPU Meter gadget for years and no security issue. So I will continue to use it on my systems. YES you should avoid gadgets, but I'm not scared in using the CPU meter gadget that I have been using for years so I am going to continue to use it.

The Tool adds Gadget support to Windows 8, 8.1, and Windows 10 systems. So I gave it a try and sure enough it works.

The Tool is 8 Gadget Pack. Once installed you can grab the gadget you want and install it and it works.
http://win7gadgets.com/blog/how-install-desktop-gadgets-windows-10/

*** GADGETS SHOULD BE AVOIDED ACCORDING TO MICROSOFT DUE TO SECURITY REASONS ***
Myself, I'm not worried about a single gadget running that I have ran for years and never had any problems.


[ATTACHMENT deleted by admin to conserve space]Nice find...I've been using 8 Gadget Pack for years. Favorites: Grass Calendar, Weather, Clipboarder, and even Cooking Timer. If nothing else, get Clipboarder! When you install 8GP you will get a visible sideboard. This can be turned off and you can place the Gadgets anywhere. I find them handy for hiding less used icons.Thanks for the suggestion tcebob.

I use mainly the CPU/RAM gadget in the screenshot that shows values and graphs. Another one I use is a Network one that shows information and upload and download traffic on a graph that will show like the last 2 minutes of traffic.

The network one has been handy in detecting free MMORPG games that I installed that to my surprise turn my system into a seed for others to download game content from through a bit torrent system. I PUT a stop to this because it was strangling my upload bandwidth and causing problems for other users. Pando Media Booster was uploading content to others and I killed this off to just be a game user and a non-seed member. There are enough people out there oblivious to the fact that their systems are being used this way that they dont need my system also acting as a bit torrent seed. If I didnt have this network log I would probably never have known how they were using my system in a way that I didnt approve of 

The CPU/RAM one I use for when playing games it will log the last 2 minutes of CPU and RAM use and so I can launch a game and play the game through a heavy resource PART of the game and then pause the game or exit the game and I can look back and see if its weighing heavy on a single-core or balanced as well as how heavily weighed down was this CPU as well as did my RAM use climb to greater than 90% and how did the Paging react to that to know if i should add more RAM or if its fine to run it as is for whatever I am doing. Additionally if something seems to lag yet the CPU use is only 23%, what gives and I am on the hunt for why something is lagging out such as recently I found that the latest Firefox browser has issues with the game Forge of Empires that seem to build and exiting the browser and launching it again fixes it for a few minutes and then the problem builds again with the game where it lags and becomes unresponsive yet the CPU and RAM are still healthy values. Launching the game on IE the game runs with no problems, so its a bug with the game and Firefox I figure. Without this tool I'd be thinking is the CPU and RAM weighed down heavily to where I need a better CPU system to run it, when its just a browser issue with that flash game yet IE plays it fine.

The clock and weather ones I have used occasionally, but at times I remove them to get rid of clutter on the desktop. I will check into the ones you suggested on this test build of Windows 10 while im still testing it out and not using it for anything risky/confidential like online purchases and e-mail etcNice to hear from you, Dave. Aside from Solitaire I'm not into games, so it's good to find out what others are doing.

I have about 30 shortcuts set up on my desktop in 4 quadrants by category. On occasion they all move without any ACTION on my part. They always go to the left top to bottom and pretty much alphabetical. Very annoying to move them back. I have no clue why this happens. Any ideas?You can use a small, free APP such as iconoid (http://www.sillysot.com/) which has an option to save icon positions and restore them at boot. I've been using it for more years than I care to remember and it works with every VERSION of Windows through W10. I'm sure a Google search will reveal other such options.

Hey,
Can anyone please TELL me any way to install garageband on a windows pc ?Didn’t even think that was POSSIBLE?
Do they make a Windows version??? I though GB was only for Macs.They don't...It is possible via vmware a deep google search helped me and it is working on my PC right now! Found the method here Link REMOVED... Though it was a difficult method but it still worked

So what's next?

I'm in Windows 10 on a Surface Pro 4; don't know if one, the other, or the combination is the culprit.

Most everything is "the right size". Some programs, though, appear really, really tiny. I've also noticed this on some - not all - sites that use Adobe.

   

I've messed around in the individual program's Properties - Compatibility, and "DPI Scaling" and all that. I'm not really certain what any of it does, but it hasn't "corrected" for this phenomenon... Surely this can't be as intended?

Thanks.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I wouldnt jump off a bridge and/or blame it all on Win 10...fact is that there;s a ton of apps out there that didn;t keep up with Win developement...

Not an answer...just an observation.The program wasn't designed that way, but that is how it was made.

It doesn't do anything to handle non-standard DPI settings, and always assumes 96 ppi. However, it tells windows it is DPI AWARE. This is why it is tiny. The window is the same pixel size as it would be on a standard 100% scaled display despite being on a high-resolution monitor with a much higher pixel density. And because it said "I'll do it myself, GAWD" to Windows, Windows doesn't interfere and assumes it knows what it is doing. (It can't really detect when a program claims it is DPI aware but doesn't do anything to actually be DPI Aware).
I was HALFWAY up the side of the bridge, muttering "*censored* you, STEVE Ballmer" when I read your post, patio. Close call!

OK, so, um, BC, is there anything I can do about it? QUOTE from: rjbinney on October 04, 2017, 06:34:09 PM

OK, so, um, BC, is there anything I can do about it?

Hello,

It has been several months now that my computer is having memory leaks. When I turn it on and start all of my usual applications (Intellij, SQL Developper, Chrome, a VPN) it consumes AROUND 40% of my 16GB of RAM.
The consumption seems to go up as the day progress and after 1 or 2 days it will get up to 95-99% and the computer will start to get slower. I will eventually need to reboot.

The thing is even though the task manager tells me 99% of the RAM is consumed, if I add the memory consumed by all applications it will hardly reach 4GB (I tried to attach an image, hopefully, it works).

I am not sure how to try and investigate the problem. I also LOOKED at Poolmon but once again there is nothing consuming more than 100Mb.

I also tried to update drivers and change a registry entry but none of these helped.

Any idea of what I could try to do to either pinpoint the CAUSE or solve the problem?

Thank you!
Sphax



[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Hey there,

I've never really had any issues with my RAM, but have a look on this and this may help to LOCATE the issue, I hope.

http://www.pcgamer.com/dealing-with-memory-leaks/

Anyway hope it helps Quote from: Sphax on September 07, 2017, 09:07:34 AM

Hello,

It has been several months now that my computer is having memory leaks. When I turn it on and start all of my usual applications (Intellij, SQL Developper, Chrome, a VPN) it consumes around 40% of my 16GB of RAM.
The consumption seems to go up as the day progress and after 1 or 2 days it will get up to 95-99% and the computer will start to get slower. I will eventually need to reboot.

The thing is even though the task manager tells me 99% of the RAM is consumed, if I add the memory consumed by all applications it will hardly reach 4GB (I tried to attach an image, hopefully, it works).

I am not sure how to try and investigate the problem. I also looked at Poolmon but once again there is nothing consuming more than 100Mb.

I also tried to update drivers and change a registry entry but none of these helped.

Any idea of what I could try to do to either pinpoint the cause or solve the problem?

Thank you!
Sphax

Hey there,

I've never really had any issues with my RAM, but have a look on this and this may help to locate the issue, I hope.

http://www.pcgamer.com/dealing-with-memory-leaks/

Anyway hope it helps

Try not to have so many browsers executing at once. Also, depending on your VPN, you may be accessing 8 servers and pulling in so much traffic it is causing the memory leaks through bad packets and routers not correctly configured.. and poor communication and VPN settings. It has to tax the crap out of your RAM. I bet if you look at you logs you would see untold rejected internet traffic and critical errors all over.. A sick system is more susceptible to catching a virus ..

Do you have a Network adapter from the manufacturer "Killer Networks"? If so, remove the accompanying software- it has a memory leak.

Sorry, my logical mind is acting up again. Why no Win 9?  Quote from: dangkhoa on September 27, 2017, 10:31:32 AM

Sorry, my logical mind is acting up again. Why no Win 9? 

here’s also the fact that the name of each Windows release doesn’t actually match the real version number. For example, Windows 8.1 is actually version 6.3 of Windows. Windows 10 is version 6.4. The last time the release name actually matched the version number was the enterprise-focused Windows NT 4.0, which was released back in 1996. Windows 2000, which was called NT 5.0 during development, was actually version 5.0. Windows XP was version 5.1. Windows Vista was 6.0, Windows 7 was 6.1, Windows 8 was 6.2, and Windows 8.1 is version 6.3.

Windows 12 is all about VR

Yes, you’ve read that right! Our sources from the company confirmed that Microsoft is planning to release a new operating system called Windows 12 in early 2019. Indeed, there will be no Windows 11, as the company decided to jump straight to Windows 12.

This was released on April 1 this year

...

Do you believe it?   

Then 10 came out because they claim that scripts that check for (Windows 9) as a lazy shorthand check for Windows 95 and Windows 98 exclusions was the issue so they decided on 10.

I personally like the names and numbers attached to the Windows Name as for it shows clearly which is old from new.

ASUS Z170 MAXIMUS VIII RANGER
i7 6700k (factory clock)
GTX 1070
SanDisk SDSSDA240G 240gb hard drive (OS)
Seagate ST2000DM001 2TB SATA III hard drive
Western Digital WD5000BEVT 500GB SATA 2.5
G.Skill 16gb DDR4 2400 RAM
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Corsair CX 600
Windows 10 Pro Version 1703 OS Build 15063.540

I really need help guys.. my PC is freezing all the time and its stopping me from finding work. I'm hoping one of you guys has a bright idea of what to try.

The story is.. I get back to my flat after a week away, so I can work on my portfolio. I use AutoCAD and InDesign. Whilst working, my machine started freezing/BSOD occasionally (i.e. once or twice a day). The problem got worse over the next few days, freezing usually whilst multitasking/under load.

I was having to restart so many times a day I decided to reinstall Windows. Even after a clean install, deleting my old files, I've FOUND the problem has in fact got worse. The machine is frequently struggling to manage to load to Windows now. I have already disabled everything I can under Task Manager > Startup. Sometimes it freezes at the Welcome screen, a few seconds after the desktop loading, sometimes after a few minutes. It always coincides with noise from the PC case which simultaneously coincides with the mouse cursor slowing down to a flickering stutter before freezing to a crash. Occasionally it'll struggle past this then the PC will run fine for a good while, as it has been doing so as I type. But if I were to start a process that is resource intensive (i.e. launching a game in CEMU emulator) than its now guaranteed to crash.

The noise from the PC case sounds like hard drive access? Although my OS is installed on a SSD and no additional programs should be loading at startup. Worryingly, it sometimes even freezes at the Republic of Gamers mobo welcome splash at the very start. I don't think it is hardware though as my components are barely 8 months old and the diagnostics I've run surely would've indicated this by now?

I've tried the following:

HW Monitor - GPU + CPU temps all normal
Windows Memory Diagnostic tool - RAM Ok
Windows Disk Check - No problems found
SFC /SCANNOW - All Ok
Reinstalling Windows - clean, removing all files

The pattern currently is..

1. Boot pc from power on button.
2. Freeze at Windows welcome screen/desktop at startup
3. Cold boot using power button (held in for 10 seconds to repower)
4. Repeat 2-3 until..
5. PC manages to struggle past the initial stuttering at outset and will run fine until placed under load


I really need to sort this out so I can finish my portfolio and get a job and pay my rent!

Will
3 things...
1) I am assuminging Win is installed on the ssd...power down and disconnect the other 2 drives..see what happens.
2)You should actually run MemTest...1 hour minimum...it's more thorough than Win Memory check...
3) It may be a PSU issue...to test borrow 1 of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there overnite...You didn't mention DISM, which I find enormously helpful. It would help if you have an ISO of your installation. Here are the steps:
1. Mount the ISO file. (It will look like a new drive, say drive D:.)
2. In the drive open \sources and find either Install.esd or Install.wim.
3. Open an Administrator Command.exe and enter:
Code: [Select]Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth /Source:wim:D:\Sources\Install.esd:1 being sure to use the actual drive letter and Install version.
4. Play about 10 rounds of solitaire or whatever time-waster you are partial to.

With luck, all will be well. There is a log file somewhere if you need it.
Unmount the ISO.

You can read all about Dism by entering "dism /?" Quote from: MightyMouse on August 12, 2017, 08:27:04 AM

ASUS Z170 MAXIMUS VIII RANGER
i7 6700k (factory clock)
GTX 1070
SanDisk SDSSDA240G 240gb hard drive (OS)
Seagate ST2000DM001 2TB SATA III hard drive
Western Digital WD5000BEVT 500GB SATA 2.5
G.Skill 16gb DDR4 2400 RAM
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Corsair CX 600
Windows 10 Pro Version 1703 OS Build 15063.540

I really need help guys.. my PC is freezing all the time and its stopping me from finding work. I'm hoping one of you guys has a bright idea of what to try.

The story is.. I get back to my flat after a week away, so I can work on my portfolio. I use AutoCAD and InDesign. Whilst working, my machine started freezing/BSOD occasionally (i.e. once or twice a day). The problem got worse over the next few days, freezing usually whilst multitasking/under load.

I was having to restart so many times a day I decided to reinstall Windows. Even after a clean install, deleting my old files, I've found the problem has in fact got worse. The machine is frequently struggling to manage to load to Windows now. I have already disabled everything I can under Task Manager > Startup. Sometimes it freezes at the Welcome screen, a few seconds after the desktop loading, sometimes after a few minutes. It always coincides with noise from the PC case which simultaneously coincides with the mouse cursor slowing down to a flickering stutter before freezing to a crash. Occasionally it'll struggle past this then the PC will run fine for a good while, as it has been doing so as I type. But if I were to start a process that is resource intensive (i.e. launching a game in CEMU emulator) than its now guaranteed to crash.

The noise from the PC case sounds like hard drive access? Although my OS is installed on a SSD and no additional programs should be loading at startup. Worryingly, it sometimes even freezes at the Republic of Gamers mobo welcome splash at the very start. I don't think it is hardware though as my components are barely 8 months old and the diagnostics I've run surely would've indicated this by now?

I've tried the following:

HW Monitor - GPU + CPU temps all normal
Windows Memory Diagnostic tool - RAM Ok
Windows Disk Check - No problems found
SFC /SCANNOW - All Ok
Reinstalling Windows - clean, removing all files

The pattern currently is..

1. Boot pc from power on button.
2. Freeze at Windows welcome screen/desktop at startup
3. Cold boot using power button (held in for 10 seconds to repower)
4. Repeat 2-3 until..
5. PC manages to struggle past the initial stuttering at outset and will run fine until placed under load


I really need to sort this out so I can finish my portfolio and get a job and pay my rent!

Will

If so you may have possible let Windows and the Bios adjust settings that just made the system unstable as it was either stacking the cpu and ram, so it lowered some voltages, and you reinstalled all that software and drivers and anti virus and everything else you need and maybe share it with a flat mate who runs other software ?  I suspect power conflicts, low voltage under app stress, insufficient ram, selective power disconnect, buggy firmware and drivers conflicting, and ADOBE

I don't know why but my audio stopped working, I quickly went to troubleshooting and it said audio services aren't running.I went to services, tried to START it and it said "WINDOWS could not start windows audio service on local computer. Error 1079: The account SPECIFIED for this service is different from the account specified for other services running in the same process"
I SEARCHED every where on the internet for help but nothing came up.

Please help me, I am currently doing a project which requires sound.Check device Manager...any yellow !!'s ? ?

When I copy a received email text by using WORD, I can easily print it by GOING to FILE > PRINT, but when it's a text copied using FASTSTONE CAPTURE instead of WORD, the toolbar does not pop up at all, and therefore I cannot access the word FILE.

Any solution for this problem, please?   

Have been RACKING my brains for hours to solve it on my own, but I got nowhere, except a bout of dizziness...
THANK you in advance for helping me.
GUZEPPI

Copy and paste it in a Word or Notepad document. You can then edit it and GET a better PRINTOUT.

So, ive built a custom pc over the last few months and, having got everything else working, i went to install windows. After going through the setup (64 bit, product key, allocating hard drive space ETC) the install started however, my computer lost power. When i restarted, i got this error
An oprerating system wasnt FOUND. Try disconnecting any drives that dont contain an operating system
press ctrl alt del to restart
by unplugging my only HDD, and having the windows 10 install usb in, i got taken back to the setup, but obviously,having unplugged my HDD, i had nowhere to install it. By doing this i ALSO CONFIRMED that the product key had been counted, no longer allowing me to use it. By going into system settings and making my computer auto boot from the windows 10 usb rather than the hdd the system told me that
YOUR PC/DEVICE NEEDS TO BE REPAIRED
the boot config data file doesnt contain valid info for an os
file: \boot\BCD
error code 0xc0000098
youll need to use recovery tools. If you dont have any install media (i have usb) contact your pc ADMINISTRATOR or
pc/device manufacturer.
any help, however simple would be appreciated
thanks

Can anyone kindly let me have step-by-step directions on how to transfer PHOTOS TAKEN on my NOKIA mobile to my ACER laptop, using Bluetooth?
I WENT to the Store option in the NOKIA SUITE, but apparently I must have missed or misused
some buttons there to complete the transfer.

Thank you beforehand for your help.

May I lastly add that, as an old-age pensioner, I have become a slow learner, and therefore
feel I owe you my thanks for your PATIENCE, too.

I would like to (chrome) CAST my photos (contained in Picasa but easily accessible).  I have tried using google+ and google photo and am able to display them in my chrome browser but cannot cast them.  I can HOWEVER cast ALMOST anything else i.e. Netflix from the chrome browser.  Is there some way for me to SIMPLY send my photos from my W10 computer to my chromecast equiped TV/

I need help with an issue I am having with my computer that happens much more often than I'd like (At least 3 times per week) The issue's symptoms include (but are probably not limited to) the audio stuttering in such a way that it does make progression, but it slowed down, and choppy, as well as lots of static and buzzing. The volume slider that changes the volume is slow to respond and often takes up to 7 seconds to update (even when using the mute button) and the only known method to fixing this issue is restarting the system. I don't know what's causing this, and could not find any relation to it. I have attempted to update all software on my computer, and it was not fixed. I used lots of software wizards and used the troubleshooter multiple times to find the error with no success. I asked one of Microsoft's personnel and they could not help me (pointing towards updating software [which I had already updated] and claiming that the possibility of it being a hardware issue was in play [which is no reason to suggest one fix and give up] as well as attempt to charge me money for REMOTE assistance [which I don't even trust] and feel insulted about :/) anyways, the fact that it could be a hardware issue is in play, but this doesn't mean I should give up. Recently I was playing on CSGO when this issue came up again, I had just so happened to open the console only to see the console flooded with audio file errors (and was still flooding after typing a message and such) which made me think that this could be caused by a software that reads and translates the files, instead the issue being where it is managed and run.

So BASICALLY what I'm saying is that I looked into all the possibilities of it being the sound driver, but not the encoder or decoder or reader or translator or whatever it is or is called, and that it MAY very well be so. And I need help finding what it is or where it is, how to uninstall/restart whenever this issue comes up/update/uninstall and add a variant that is more compatible with my current setup.

Thank you for reading and please help me I've been dealing with this issue for a year now...

NOTE: The audio drivers I'm using are "Realtek High Definition Audio" my computer brand is HP and if you want more information on it you can respond and I will gladly give out the information as long as it doesn't personally identify me.There could be several issues and Realtek is subject to, and can cause problems.

The least likely is that your audio cable is not shielded very well and there may be something emitting a strong magnetic interference wave. Go buy well shielded audio cables.

2. If the front audio port on your case is low quality, the cable may not be properly seated in the MB pins.

3. Disable all other audio devices, especially the HDMI audio : Kill any obsolete audio / video  codecs or running apps like quicktime. Just my opinion, this is why I do not use, or allow HDMI to carry an audio signal.

4. IF the performance is the same as listening to steaming audio as audio running an application, you have a software conflict. If not, You have a software conflict. 

It is 99% unlikely that it is a hardware issue, but a conflict. Try running as MANY different audio file TYPES as possible, burn a encode a CD into MP3, WMP, and other audio formats. If just one is fine, you have a conflict. If you can't troubleshoot it and have better quality out the back ports, sometimes you just do not notice it as much.

Buy a USB sound device.Oh... Also, in the power stetting you can select high quality or lower quality audio to save power consumption. Check that...

So basically I upgraded from windows 7 to 10 few days ago before that I had no issues. I ALSO installed an SSD and new 16gb ram and installed OS on SSD.
I have my 144hz as my main monitor and a secondary monitor with 60hz with an HDMI cable plugged in since my gfx card only has 1 port. I never had an issue with this before but as of now I've noticed how tabs load in slowly and how they really lag when you move them I'll provide some short clips and you can see how it looks. Also videos / streams kind of lags small stutters and the video speeds up randomly it kind of looks like the computer can't keep up with the video.
https://streamable.com/3qc09 - with 60hz hdmi monitor plugged in.
https://streamable.com/6z0yh - with 60hz hdmi monitor plugged in.
https://streamable.com/qr6wu - with hdmi monitor unplugged. Only 144hz monitor plugged in.
https://streamable.com/59ey3 - with hdmi monitor unplugged. Only 144hz monitor plugged in.
At first I thought it was that I needed to install graphics drivers, adobe but I've done all that. I felt a difference when I unplugged my hdmi monitor but it still doesn't feel 100%.Did you install Win 10 drivers for everything yet ? ?

Are you sure the RAM is correct ? ?

Where are the vid drivers from ? ?Hey.

Yeah the RAM is correctly put in, an IT dude did it for me. I got all the latest drivers, and the video drivers are from geforce experience.Get the drivers from the card manuf. site....

Just CAUSE an "IT" guy did the RAM doesn't mean it's the correct RAM...
You can check this by looking at the QVL list in the MBoard Owners Manual...You are posting this on multiple forums, and that's fine. But you need to keep each forum up to date on what actions you've taken so we know what's going on and to keep from wasting everyone's time. Thank you. Quote from: Allan on September 17, 2017, 09:36:05 AM

You are posting this on multiple forums, and that's fine. But you need to keep each forum up to date on what actions you've taken so we know what's going on and to keep from wasting everyone's time. Thank you.

Not sure what cpu/gpu/ram you are using HDMI, HDMI 2.0 ?? .. but Running two monitors at different htz / response time, and two different interfaces may cause issues with many older GPUs. You may not have enough computing power to do what you want. You can lower both to 60htz and see what happens; upgrade your hdmi cables and make sure they are well shielded ( unlikely ); Check your RAM utilization and try scaling the GPU instead of the display if you are / can.

Way back in the day this was a problem with GTX cards as it required changing windows settings and some cards just could not run 60/144 or operate paired with another GPU. If I remember right it had to do with the PC trying to store frames to play back smooth video but ended up unable to play back at a constant frame rate as it could not sync for reasons such as inadequate ram, 60/144 .. and the mentioned above.

I try to install "Object Dock Plus" to give my PC a xtra new look but it's a shame that it doesn't have it's own update.
"Object Dock Plus" doesn't install without "Microsoft .NET 2.0". I don't face any problem b4 win-10 in this topic b4 but I've already update my driver with "driver pack 17" so it install Microsoft .NET 4+ (I'm not sure which one). I've tried to install "dotNet Framework v3.5" and
"dotNET Framework v4.5.2" but it says ".Net Framework 4.5.2 or a later update is already installed on this computer."

I seriously don't understand WHY win-10 is sucking me one by one?
>1st, I'm not the administrator on my own PC. (totally sucks, some "DESKTOP-4P911QD" is my administrator)

>2nd, Unnecessary huge update. Although I've fixed it in "services/Windows Update service"

>3rd, the gaming performance was totally sucked me. But some Youtube guy tell me about "Game fcuking recorder". Seriously...? Which was sucking my 30%-50% performance. He teach me how to FCUK it back though....

>4th, The same guy tell me about this
Open “services.msc” and read/disable this…
>AllJoyn Router Service
>Application Layer Gateway Service
>Bluetooth Support Service
>BranchCache
>Certificate Propagation
>Client for NFS
>Distributed Link Tracking Client
>dmwappushsvc
>Downloaded Maps Manager
>Enterprise App Management Service
>Geolocation Service
>Health Key and Certificate Management
>Hyper-V Data Exchange Service
>Hyper-V Guest Service Interface
>Hyper-V Guest Shutdown Service
>Hyper-V Heartbeat Service
>Hyper-V Remote Desktop Virtualization Service
>Hyper-V Time Synchronization Service
>Hyper-V VM Session Service
>Hyper-V Volume Shadow Copy Requestor
>Internet Connection Sharing (ICS)
>Internet Explorer ETW Collector Service
>IP Helper
>Microsoft Diagnostics Hub Standard Collector Service
>Microsoft iSCSI Initiator Service
>Microsoft Windows SMS Router Service
>Netlogon
>Offline Files
>Remote Procedure Call (RPC) Locator
>Retail Demo Service
>Sensor Data Service
>Sensor Monitoring Service
>Sensor Service
>Smart Card Device Enumeration Service
>Smart Card Removal Policy
>SNMP Trap
>Storage Service
>Touch Keyboard and Handwriting Panel Service
>Windows Biometric Service
>Windows Connect Now - Config Registrar
>Windows Media Player Network Sharing Service
>Windows Mobile HOTSPOT Service
>Windows MultiPoint Server Host Service
>Windows MultiPoint Server Repair Service
>Windows Remote Management (WS-Management)
>Xbox Live Auth Manager
>Xbox Live Game Save
>XboxNetApiSvc

>5th, Now a small update is not in it (Microsoft .NET 2.0). Shame Windows 10, shame on you...

My question are simple:
1. How do I change administrator to my name? Is it gonna create another "folder need permission' issue? After change is it change the folder name in "C:\Users"?
2. How to fixed this "Microsoft .NET 2.0" thing...?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space] Quote

driver pack 17

And watch your language. Our site is visited by people of all ages from all over the world. Keep it clean.

I try to install "Object Dock Plus" to give my PC a xtra new look but it's a shame that it doesn't have it's own update.
"Object Dock Plus" doesn't install without "Microsoft .NET 2.0". I don't face any problem b4 win-10 in this topic b4 but I've already update my driver with "driver pack 17" so it install Microsoft .NET 4+ (I'm not sure which one). I've tried to install "dotNet Framework v3.5" and
"dotNET Framework v4.5.2" but it says ".Net Framework 4.5.2 or a later update is already installed on this computer."

I seriously don't understand WHY win-10 is sucking me one by one?
>1st, I'm not the administrator on my own PC. (totally sucks, some "DESKTOP-4P911QD" is my administrator)

>2nd, Unnecessary huge update. Although I've fixed it in "services/Windows Update service"

>3rd, the gaming performance was totally sucked me. But some Youtube guy tell me about "Game HACKing recorder". Seriously...? Which was sucking my 30%-50% performance. He teach me how to HACK it back though....

>4th, The same guy tell me about this
Open “services.msc” and read/disable this…
>AllJoyn Router Service
>Application Layer Gateway Service
>Bluetooth Support Service
>BranchCache
>Certificate Propagation
>Client for NFS
>Distributed Link Tracking Client
>dmwappushsvc
>Downloaded Maps Manager
>Enterprise App Management Service
>Geolocation Service
>Health Key and Certificate Management
>Hyper-V Data Exchange Service
>Hyper-V Guest Service Interface
>Hyper-V Guest Shutdown Service
>Hyper-V Heartbeat Service
>Hyper-V Remote Desktop Virtualization Service
>Hyper-V Time Synchronization Service
>Hyper-V VM Session Service
>Hyper-V Volume Shadow Copy Requestor
>Internet Connection Sharing (ICS)
>Internet Explorer ETW Collector Service
>IP Helper
>Microsoft Diagnostics Hub Standard Collector Service
>Microsoft iSCSI Initiator Service
>Microsoft Windows SMS Router Service
>Netlogon
>Offline Files
>Remote Procedure Call (RPC) Locator
>Retail Demo Service
>Sensor Data Service
>Sensor Monitoring Service
>Sensor Service
>Smart Card Device Enumeration Service
>Smart Card Removal Policy
>SNMP Trap
>Storage Service
>Touch Keyboard and Handwriting Panel Service
>Windows Biometric Service
>Windows Connect Now - Config Registrar
>Windows Media Player Network Sharing Service
>Windows Mobile Hotspot Service
>Windows MultiPoint Server Host Service
>Windows MultiPoint Server Repair Service
>Windows Remote Management (WS-Management)
>Xbox Live Auth Manager
>Xbox Live Game Save
>XboxNetApiSvc

>5th, Now a small update is not in it (Microsoft .NET 2.0). Shame Windows 10, shame on you...

My question are simple:
1. How do I change administrator to my name? Is it gonna create another "folder need permission' issue? After change is it change the folder name in "C:\Users"?
2. How to fixed this "Microsoft .NET 2.0" thing...?

Here are some additional steps[/u] to try.

Why are you answering in middle of the night?

There is certainly a common element to your problems

It's representing my inner anger to Microsoft. Which is a kind of OK. But you are right, I'll keep it clean but you need to give me another word to do the same.

Do you have any solution of my problems?

The U-tube icon has suddenly and inexplicably VANISHED from DESKTOP. How to GET it back ,

PLEASE?

Thank you in advance for your help.

JoeB

P.S. I am on windows 10

I have been experiencing some crashes due to playing games recently. My processor and graphics card are more than enough to run the games, it's just my disk that gets up to 99% when I play. When the game gets intense my computer screen will black out and the fan in the computer will get loud (that or the hard drive, idk). A simple reset fixes it.

So my solution is to get a bigger and better hard drive with higher RPMs in order to run my games. Does this work? Can I run the OS off the original HD and then play games off the new HD?? It seems to make sense but after looking in to it I've seen that it's probably more complicated than I assume.

Thanks for any help!

-Blue JayNo. Is you disk near full? I doubt it.

Remove stuff you will never use from your hard drive.
Run the check disk tool in windows and test drive for BAD sectors.
Run the defrag utility.

If that does not help, consider getting a SSD as your second drive.
A 16 Gb SSD should be more that enough for any game.
Oh okay. Is there such thing as HDs that run slower than others? Cause my computer is pretty much new, I have tons of space left. I was thinking I could get a "gaming" HD that WOULD run faster so it's not hitting 99%+ when I play.

Is that the case or is an SSD my only option, then?

Thanks a bunch SSD is best option. Before SSD's people used RAID 0 including myself as well as a trick like short stroking a drive

RAID 0 (Desktop or Gamer class laptops that have room for 2 hard drives to work as a pair. http://www.raid-calculator.com/raid-types-reference.aspx

Short Stroking http://lifehacker.com/how-to-short-stroke-your-hard-drive-for-optimal-speed-1598306074

Faster than SSD is RAMDrive which allocates RAM to act like a hard drive, but data stored on this drive is wiped out on shutdown unless you have a server with battery RAM to SAVE RAM state, and the data has to copy from HDD ot SSD to RAMDrive at boot to which the data in the RAMdrive is as fast as your RAM itself. (*Most people dont use RAMDrives unless they have lots of extra RAM and whatever game or program they are running can fit within the allocated RAM space. ) I have played with RAMDrives but dont have a system with enough RAM to make it a permanent edition to my build. The SSD I have is fast enough. Although the RAMDrive is like 20 x faster than a SSD with DDR2 800Mhz RAM https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RAM_driveblue jay,

yes you can get faster HDD (mechanical) units.

typically a laptop drive (2.5") has a RPM of 5400, but some have 7200.
a desktop drive (3.5") is normally 7200 but you can get 10,000 and if you have more money than sense there are even 15,000 units out there.

but with games, the bottleneck is not normally I/O speeds to the drive but with your GPU.

for my money, bite the bullet and go SSD.  250GB units are $AUD140.
and although they aren't a big improvement during the game, they will remove any drive bottleneck.

as to your original question, can you run the OS off the old drive and the game off the new drive - of course you can.
you only have to change the default folder location while you install the game to that second drive.

BUT...  anything OS related that the game may do, like access Temp folders, pagefile, etc, will still hit the old drive.
so anything game related will go to the new drive, anything OS related will still use the original drive.Hey, THANKS A BUNCH everyone for answering my question. You guys are all great, and I'm excited to be part of the community. This seems like a stellar site. Glad to have a place to learn and get some solid info.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on September 10, 2017, 08:19:57 PM

A 16 Gb SSD should be more that enough for any game.

I think GTA5 is more then 50GB, how is it more then enough?

Hello everyone. Not sure if it's on the right board, as I don't know if my problem is caused by the system or the hardware.

Less than a week ago I got a new notebook - Asus Zenbook UX305CA. Here are its specs:
Intel Core m3-6Y30
Windows 10 Home
8GB RAM
256GB SSD
1920x1080 resolution
Intel HD Graphics 515

Windows 10 was preinstalled, and all I had to do was configuring preferences and stuff like that. Pretty soon I've noticed that SOMETIMES a small delay occurs when typing, scrolling or switching between programs. Most of the time it works fine, but when it lags (1/4 of the time?) it's a bit frustrating. Sometimes it gets to a level, where I have to wait for few words to appear on the screen at the same time after I wrote them, and sometimes music in the background interrupts with a cracking noise for a tiny moment in the background. When I was downloading some games to test this laptop's "gaming" capabilities, and League of Legends was patching, using Firefox BECAME almost impossible due to few seconds delay on everything I did.

I've read that the M3-6Y30 processor is slower than its rivals, but I didn't expected it to be that bad, and I hope that it's somehow solvable. I usually just surf the web with Youtube/Spotify music PLAYING in the background and a notetaking app (Evernote) open. It doesn't seem like any background processes are causing this, just some system stuff. I tried to turn off as much UNNECESSARY things as possible, including Cortana and data-sending W10 options, checked if drivers and system are up to date, taken care to not install any app that could cause this, SWITCHED from "balanced" to "high performance" power plan. Still no improvement.

Wondering if I should send it back on warranty, or whether I can somehow solve it. Or whether it's something normal with this hardware setup. Would be very grateful for help.


I would exercise your warranty rights on this one and get a replacement. It doesnt sound right. I looked up your processor since I wasn't familiar with it. I was thinking it was under powered , but its actually not that bad 900Mhz with a 2.2Ghz turbo mode and 3051 score.  https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+m3-6Y30+%40+0.90GHz

One test I would suggest before the warranty replacement is try this with it plugged in and powered off of your outlet and see if the problem goes away. While you did try for better performance in the power plan, some laptops/netbooks underclock slightly when on battery and are more green when on battery but they run harder when they are powered off an outlet through their power supplies. My Core i5 laptop does this which is annoying but it is what it is. If this is a solution then it means that you will just need to be on wall power to avoid lag or return the computer and get one that might not have this issue with a reduced clock when on battery power.

Hello I have a new ASUS laptop that came with Windows 10 already installed. This morning I got a blue screen with a sad face that said something like oops we have to shut down  and REFERRED me to the message: video_scheduler_internal_error

I thought maybe I had stressed the computer by having too many internet tabs open. So, after it restarted itself I was careful to keep all unnecessary windows and tabs closed. Within an hour, I got the same message again.

  What should I do about this? Everytime it shuts down like this I inevitably lose some of work, as well as losing the time it TAKES to come back up.

Thanks in advance

Dr D If its new enough to be covered by warranty, I would get a REPLACEMENT or have ASUS fix it for you.+1Hello: First of all, I don't know what +1 means, but thanks for the reply.

  Is this a problem with my Windows PROGRAM, or the computer itself?  I ask because I bought the computer in a different city and won't be ABLE to go there to show them the computer for a few months. If it's just a faulty version of Windows, bad installation, etc. I can reinstall the Windows. But if we are talking about a computer problem then I definitely will want to try to deal with Asus.

Thanks

DrDDoesn't matter where you bought it if you deal direct with ASUS...which is what i would do...

BTW +1 means i agreed with the previous Post...

I was playing a video game, when it crashed and my computer lagged, and i couldn't do anything, so I held down the power button to turn it off. When I restarted, it showed the Dell startup, the windows logo, then just a blank screen. I have now restarted many times, and occasionally, the mouse shows up. Putting it in safe mode was very difficult (my computer boots quickly), and it didn't seem to do anything.

Please EXPLAIN how to do things thoroughly (most of what I know is from experimentation, but I don't want to mess anything up), and I would LIKE to keep the data that I have.

I am using Windows 10, 16 GB RAM, Dell XPS 8300.Do you have the factory restore/repair MEDIA set for this computer to boot from and perform a repair installation which would keep your data and repair windows?No, I don't think so. Where might I find this?

Do you mean to reinstall windows?Yes to reinstall or repair windows. If you dont have this media then you will need to contact DELL and have SERIAL # ready and have then send you this system recovery media. If under warranty they will mail it free if warranty is up they charge a fee for this. Quote from: Ale Kid on September 15, 2017, 01:54:23 AM

I was playing a video game, when it crashed and my computer lagged, and i couldn't do anything, so I held down the power button to turn it off. When I restarted, it showed the Dell startup, the windows logo, then just a blank screen. I have now restarted many times, and occasionally, the mouse shows up. Putting it in safe mode was very difficult (my computer boots quickly), and it didn't seem to do anything.

Please explain how to do things thoroughly (most of what I know is from experimentation, but I don't want to mess anything up), and I would like to keep the data that I have.

I am using Windows 10, 16 GB RAM, Dell XPS 8300.

Hi.
I have a problem in downloading updates.

I live in a country with great internet censorship and low speed limited internet services.
Recently, when I want to update my windows 10, suggests new updates for other Microsoft products and it is mandatory!!!

I did not click on the option to download updates for other Microsoft products but it downloads them and uses my allocated internet volume.
(Please take a look at the attachment picture).

Please guide me to deactivate other Microsoft products updates. I want only main updates windows suggests like "cumulative updates" and "hardware related updates".

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]What Organization is this message in your screenshot referring to? It LOOKS like it has a group policy controlling this, as if its a corporate computer where your not the admin of it and not permitted to make changes and thats why its GREYED out.?Exactly...The disabled option is unticked.

What updates are you receiving that you do not want?that message "some settings are hidden or managed by your organisation" I see when I use ShutUp10.  (maybe other similar products have the same side-effect)
I think the message is generically saying, "someone has overridden the default settings".
now as to why it's greyed out, that could be something else!

Until he provides more info we may never know... Quote from: DaveLembke on August 10, 2017, 10:14:38 AM

What Organization is this message in your screenshot referring to? It looks like it has a group policy controlling this, as if its a corporate computer where your not the admin of it and not permitted to make changes and thats why its greyed out.?

The disabled option is unticked.

What updates are you receiving that you do not want?

that message "some settings are hidden or managed by your organisation" I see when I use ShutUp10.  (maybe other similar products have the same side-effect)
I think the message is generically saying, "someone has overridden the default settings".
now as to why it's greyed out, that could be something else!

The disabled option is unticked.

What updates are you receiving that you do not want?

You should already have received this in your email.
Microsoft has made some adjustments in the agreement for those who are in the insider program.

https://insider.windows.com/en-us/program-agreement/?OCID=WIP_r_Body_terms

It appears to be just a change in some legal terms.
Here is my question. Does this really change anything?
In a commercial environment, automatic updates can present some risk to the business. So frequent backups and a redundant method of doing business ought to be standard. Doesn't everybody know that? 
 They have updated the terms a few times previously.

I FOUND a previous copy of the terms here:

https://web.archive.org/web/20170827044049/https://insider.windows.com/en-us/program-agreement/


It looks like the new revision is much, much shorter. (6 versus 13 pasges when I pasted into Word)

Looking it over it seems like they largely simplified it.

I'm not sure what your last paragraph/sentence has to do with this, though. This agreement only applies to "Windows Insiders"; an exclusive term they have used to replace their QA department with volunteers.
Glad to know it is shorter. It takes me much too long to read it over.

I was thinking that maybe some IT people were using the beta versions of Windows 10 in a commercial environment. Which is not a good policy.

The Insider program is mostly for individuals and developers. - Right?

Now if a person does not want the insider updates on one of his computers, how would he do it?  Given that both computers are legal, how would you prevent the insider updates getting into both computes?

Is there some way you tell the update serve that one of YER PCs is for the beta testing ant the other needs to have a STABLE system?As far as blocking updates.... I dont see why a network device or system acting as a proxy or gateway etc wouldnt be able to block certain traffic so the system connected thru it never gets the updates. There must be a way to use content control to block network traffic related to the update process I would be thinking if not able to locally block/disable it.

Knowing how to make it work behind one, you could also find how to make it not work to update through one: http://www.edugeek.net/forums/windows-10/168922-windows-10-updates-behind-proxy.html

Such as blocking or redirecting these urls when local system looks for updates. Just not sure if it will complain if it sees a internet connection but knows it cant make it back to Micro-mommy:
Quote

http://download.windowsupdate.com
http://*.download.windowsupdate.com
http://download.microsoft.com
https://*.update.microsoft.com
http://*.update.microsoft.com
https://update.microsoft.com
http://update.microsoft.com
http://*.windowsupdate.com
http://*.windowsupdate.microsoft.com
http://windowsupdate.microsoft.com
https://*.windowsupdate.microsoft.com
http://ntservicepack.microsoft.com
http://wustat.windows.com

The Insider program is mostly for individuals and developers. - Right?

Now if a person does not want the insider updates on one of his computers, how would he do it?

Is there some way you tell the update serve that one of yer PCs is for the beta testing ant the other needs to have a stable system?

I accept that by joining the Insider Program in 2015 I became an unpaid software tester for Microsoft, but it gave me a legal install of Windows 10 on a Dell laptop that had OEM Windows XP on it. So in a way I avoided the cost of Windows 10 Professional full retail.

I don't REALLY know how to describe my issue, so it's tough to Google for it. So it may be a simple fix (probably is), but I need help.

I am connected to a WiFi network - "RJB Guest". But it shows, when I click on the system tray, that I am on "RJB Guest 2".

I have GONE into the registry key - it shows "RJB Guest" as well.

What has happened, and how do I fix it? 




Why does this mater?
It works, doesn't it?
You or somebody set up a guest account on the router.
Nothing drives me battier than when people answer help requests with, "MEH, that's not an issue for me, so it shouldn't be an issue for you."

No one set up a "guest account." It is my router on my network which I named "Guest".

I would like the network profile in my network list in Windows to match my network name. Can anyone help?

Thank you,

You already mentioned the registry, but they should be listed as one of the entries under "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\NetworkList\Profiles"

WITHIN one of those, the "ProfileName" value should be "RJB Guest 2". You should be able to CHANGE that to "RJB Guest"

There is also a "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\NetworkList\Signatures\Unmanaged" key which has other entries, some of which contain network names.

I happen to have "Network 2" as my LAN connection name which never bothered me either, but changing the instances there in the registry and then rebooting has changed it to "Network". I don't have any "2" entries on my laptop but I was able to do the same to turn it from "SSID Name" to "SSID Name Deluxe" in the foldout, so I think it works the same for wireless connections.

Quote from: BC_Programmer on September 17, 2017, 09:10:01 PM

one of the entries under "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\NetworkList\Profiles"

I have a continuous hissing sound on my LAPTOP speakers.  It activates itself automatically as soon as I turn on the laptop, and nothing will stop it.

Thank you for your help.  This sound is driving me crazy.


Guzeppi
If its as soon as powered before the OS boots etc then I'd say the amplifier CHIP on the integrated sound has noise maybe from a bad capacitor in the amplifier circuit. If this is the case then there is no volume control to make it any quieter its stuck with this level of sound. Only way AROUND this would be to disconnect the speakers internally if its an annoyance to the point that the hissing has to stop, or REPLACEMENT of the main board which is costly. How is the sound QUALITY when playing music etc, does this HISS wash out the audio? They make USB Audio adapters which can correct for sound problems but they dont pass the sound over to internal speakers. They work with headphones or sound systems connected via a stereo mini jack.

I have an old pc - Windows Vista - that I want to upgrade to Windows 10 Home version.  On checking on the net for the best genuine buy (which seems to be from MS & just under £100) all I SEEM to find is product keys (around £20 to £30), presumably for dodgy versions.  I'm not sure if these latter include the whole program or not - doesn't sound right to me.  The one seemingly genuine ad was for the Pro version at around £60, although I would have thought the Pro version would be more expensive than the Home.  Any advice and comments, particularly about the product keys, will be appreciated.I would only get it thru MS...call them.P.S. If you are registered at Uni you qualify for a decent discount...
All you need to qualify is a Uni. valid email address.You could buy it at numerous legitimate sources, such as Staples, Office Max/Office Depot, Amazon.com, newegg.com, microcenter.com, etc. I assume he isn't in the States... Quote from: patio on August 20, 2017, 10:15:16 AM

I assume he isn't in the States...

Hi all,

I know that using AD is good for applying restrictions.  Whats the best way to restrict a NEW user I have created on my home pc.  For example using:  Quote

gpedit.msc > User Configuration > System > PREVENT access to the command prompt

Hi.. Dunno if anyone encountered the same problem as me. I have a 2TB hard drive by WD. I use it to connect to my Smart TV (watching movies and LISTENING to MUSIC) and also onto a MAC at work and Windows Laptop at home. It recently went corrupted and I was unable to access the files on any of the computers plus was unable to see it on the Smart TV. But I partially resolved it with Command Prompt. Now it's working on Windows OS. But STILL invisible on the Smart TV and MAc. Any ideas?No idea til we know what exactly you did from command prompt...
and can you expand on what "it recently went corrupt" means?
it went RAW?, got CRC ERRORS?
what were the error messages, if any?
do you have any SMART figures for it?

Hello,

Months ago I re-installed Sketchbook Pro with an updated patch. I received an Error 1303, and it would not allow me to get AWAY with "Run as Administrator," so I switched to my Admin user in order to download the software. Again, Sketchbook Pro had an update, I TRIED reinstalling it, but even as an Admin it said I didn't have permission.

Now, I've been messing with the Security tab within Properties on the folder for a while now; changing the Owner to my main user, going to-and-fro between SYSTEM and Everyone in order to make permission available to all, (in my frustration) I downloaded IObit Unlocker that said that it successfully unlocked it... no dice. I don't know what I need to do to install the program, and I'm rather concerned that I will be going through this every time Sketchbook Pro has a patch.

What might I do to solve this issue, and preferably solve it permanently for this software, as it is the only software that is giving me troubles?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.Do you have an monthly or annual membership or is this a cracked version?

Is this computer your work computer or one that came from PREVIOUSLY a business or second hand to where it may have been used for a business in which there is a group policy coming into the mix controlling what can be installed causing the problem?It's cracked... Quote from: DaveLembke on August 31, 2017, 03:13:21 PM

Do you have an monthly or annual membership or is this a cracked version?

Autodesk has a KB article about the 1303 error, which might be helpful.

https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/autocad/troubleshooting/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/install-error-1303.html

Remember that part of your annual membership almost certainly entitles you to support, as well- hopefully AutoDesk support would be familiar with the causes and/or solutions to this issue.

https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/autocad/troubleshooting/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/install-error-1303.html