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Dictation.
Recently I SAW somebody posts a question about Windows 10 and it seems to me to be something very absurd. Somebody suggested that Windows 10 could somehow change the hardware on their computer and make it work differently. Of course, I dismissed that kind of notion as being sheer nonsense.
However, I just had an experience that made me reflect on that idea. I have a portable computer, a laptop, but I've used for a number of years and it was very predictable about what it would and would not to. I brought it up and I decided to reinstall Windows XP on it USING the same drivers I had used before. For some strange reason the drivers had worked before now did not work right when making an Internet connection. Well, suspecting that it might have been just a fluke, I installed Windows XP again on different partition to see if I get the same results. And yes, I did get the same results. I could not bring up the wireless Internet connection. In fact, I couldn't even bring up the Ethernet connection. And the computer was acting as if I had TWO Ethernet devices when in fact there is only supposed to be ONE. In no way could I get a wireless connection to work right.
Now what is frustrating about all this is the Internet connection is working fine on my desktop computers and working fine on my android devices. On one of the android devices that had been off for a long time I had to use the AP PIN to get it to work. But on my laptop computer using either the pin  or the password just did not work.
Well, you can guess what I did next. I decided to try putting Windows 10 back on that laptop. I know that work before, so I thought maybe if I bring it up again I'll learn something. Guess what? The wireless connection works fine. The Ethernet connection is nowhere to be found.
At this point I think I am willing to believe that Windows 10 can change hardware. No, I have no clear idea of how my WORLD it could do that. But I do not have any other explanation about what happened.
Just thought I would post this is see if anybody else has ever had anything like this.
The laptop that I was using is a Dell Inspiron 1705 and I have used both Windows XP and Windows 10 on it before. I have even used Windows 7 on it before. What I don't have is another hard disk drive to see the something in the hard disk drive that would sabotage the wireless hardware. But I don't think that is even a possibility. I formatted the hard drive so that they would not be anything left over.
The only plausible explanation would be that Windows 10 somehow had made alterations to the network hardware so that only Windows 10 could control the wireless interface.
Now if you want to tell me that's impossible, that's what I said to.

Any comments? 
I seriously doubt this at all...

What likely happened is the original install worked because it had proper drivers...
In the subsequent installs i will bet a dime to a DOLLAR you were just using default Win drivers...instead of the proper ones from the laptop manuf....Yeah, that is what really makes it hard to understand. I saved the Dell drivers for the 1705 in a backup directory on another PC. So I copied them to the 1705 and did the install as I remember doing it several months ago. But I could never get it tothe network to work right.

I suspect that some AV tool might have zonked the drivers because they look suspicious. Otherwise, I am ready to think Windows 10 is jealous of anything else and ruins my freedom to use an older OS on that machine.

Here is the catch.  I can go to the Dell site and ask it to scan my laptop, but that requires a network connection. I don't have a network connection because I c an get the network drivers tow pork.

Th is like the government announcement that says: "If you don't know how to read, send for a free booklet to help you."

I will have to look in my tool box for a USB adapter that has XP drivers.You don't need a scan at the Dell site for proper drivers...

All you need is the Service Tag # from the PC...Dictation.
After a lot of work and family found something that is a partial explanation of what happened. I went back to the Del site and entered in my service tag number and found that my computer, the laptop computer, is now called a 9400 instead of a 1705 laptop. But that really did not make any difference, the same set of files are listed for the chipset, the ethernet, wireless, sound and video.
After installing the wireless Internet drivers again for the third or fourth time, it still would not work. So I went into my router settings and I decided to lower than router security settings just a trifle. In fact, as I recall, that was how I had it set up in the first place. But for some reason the router was now asking for a P I N code  instead of a password . Anyway, I learned that security level a bit where it would not do that and I was able to log into my router using the wireless adapter on my laptop. Nevertheless, the ethernet connection is still not working. Very strange because the ethernet connection works on my two desktop computers. I think I'm going to leave that as an unsolved mystery.
Now back to topic. My question was about in Windows 10 can change hardware. Well, maybe Windows 10 request of the router to increase the security level. Could it do that without my knowing about it? Anyway, I now have the security level on the router down just a bit and the system works good and I didn't have to change the password so the android tablet  computers are happy with that. At any time I might have to androids accessing my wireless connection. Apparently they don't seem to have any trouble getting into the wireless connection because they have been registered before and the router remembers them.
So then, it is not a case of having the wrong drivers. The drivers are correct. The problem was that this old laptop does not support a higher security level that the router was using lately. I am not sure how the router that boosted up a bit to require more stringent security. Possibly Xfinity, my Internet service provider,  could have done that.
By the way, I'm using the 1607 Windows 10 Pro for 32-bit.
Also, I am dictating this with Dragon naturally speaking on one of my XP installations. So far I'm not able to use the speech recognition in Windows 10 to do any kind of significant dictation. The accuracy of the Dragon is somewhere above 99% for me. That is much, much better than what I could type and it is almost 5 times as fast.
The conclusion is that Windows 10 did not change my hardware. Instead either in my ISP change the router security settings, or possibly Windows 10 may have requested a higher security level for the router.

Thank you for your patience.

I have a recent version of Windows 10.
Yes, inside of a browser you can Chrome cast to a TV set that accepts the HDMI interface of the Google Chromoplast stick.

But know how to do that.
I want to do it without the browser. I have at least one application that does  video and I can not find the URL for the video.
The workaround is to download the video and play it in a browser. But I would like to just do it without needed to download it.
Any ideas? I have read the articles from Google and I must be missing some kind of detail. They say you can cast the whole screen to the TV. I am stuck. I don't get it.
Thanks.This is one of the many reasons why my chromecast was tossed into a box with other junk.  Chromecast wants to run through Chrome or no cigar. To get full screen does F11 work or does that only work for PC SCREENS. I gave up on my chromecast YEARS ago very SHORTLY after wasting money on it.

I was going to sell my chromecast to TRY to get $20 of my $35 back and its associated with my gmail account and permanently bonded to my e-mail. In order to sell it i would also be required to give them my e-mail account, so its a piece of junk to me. Maybe someday it will be worth something 30 years from now to a collector as its in the box with other junk, doesnt take up much space, and I might get something of that $35 back. 

For some people the chromecast might work out perfect for them, but not for my home and our needs. I have a Roku model 1 as well as my BluRay player has ability to attach a up to 32GB external drive to it to play movies in FAT32 so i found a purpose for an old 40GB IDE Laptop drive formatted with a 32GB partition with a USB/IDE adapter, as well as I can Plex to these devices if I wanted to using a system as a media server.Thanks for sharing.
The TV set in our dining room has HDMI and the AV type connectors.
I am able to use the chrome cast to send the browser content from my desktop to the dining room. So far I have not been able to do it without the  using Chrome browser.

However, I can push the browser over to my second monitor and the TV still shows only the browser content. In that case somebody can see a video in the dining room while I do something on my computer with the main monitor.

Like you said, Roku does not have this limitation. I use a Roku in the bedroom. So far I have not found out how to use Roku with a local media server. I was hoping the Chromecast would do the job.   
Roku supports Plex Tv .... https://www.plex.tv/

https://www.plex.tv/how-it-works/

I have been using my Sony BluRay player that has ability to play local movie files through a FAT32 (40GB laptop hard drive formatted to 32GB) through its rear USB port. But I did play with Plex and while the free version works the premium has more features.The Chromecast chrome extension ALREADY allows you to cast your entire screen, when it opens, click "Cast To" at the top which will open a menu that lets you select "Cast Tab" or "Cast Desktop" - Simply select "Cast Desktop" and it will share your entire screen.

Have you run a virus scan and did it show any infections? Did this computer have a virus before this problem?

CMD.EXE
REGEDIT.EXE
SERVICES.MSC

I run a virus and antimalware scan EVERY day.

Being broken would be a way for malware to keep you from going in and removing them. So Very interested in if you got hit with malware/virus.

Do you have the system recovery media set for this computer to rebuild it new from discs or thumb drive(s)?

dictation...
When ever I use Windows 10, I have a hard time adjusting the display resolution to have a quality that works for me. I have difficulty reading very fine print so I have to use a magnifier or some type of device the font size on the screen.
This is going to take me about 20 min. to get this post ready. I'm going to go ahead and post this and take a screenshot of my post and then attach the screenshot. No, I don't think I'll do that. Instead I will just inserted as a full-size image. But what I'll do is I'll crop off part of it so it takes less bandwidth and now s save and serve it as a H color GIFF image so that you can see what I see.I normally use FIREFOX and I usually have to use the plus button to improve the readability of the text. So what you see in the image will be what I am seeing in the browser.
Now here's the problem. The first image I'm going to show is made inside of Windows XP and then it is simply cropped and saved as and eight color GIFF image and placed on my own website. So it will not take up bandwidth of the form and it will be a real image of the raster.
After I get through posting it, I will take another screenshot in Windows can and you can compare them side-by-side and see the difference in the text quality. For some reason Windows 10 doesn't seem to handle the font as well as Windows XP. I can't figure it out. I am sure it is not a function of the browser, because I have the same problem even with Perl PROGRAMS that don't use a browser.

later...
Windows XP raster

Windows 10 raster

Can you see any difference? I don't understand. The screenshots look the same, but I have a hard time reading it in Windows 10.  Am I allergic to Windows 10
Any help welcome.What GPU are you using with Windows 10.

My one Athlon II 215 2.7Ghz system that has the integrated nVidia 6150SE graphics I didnt like the difference between Windows 7 and 10. With Windows 7 everything is crisp looking. With Windows 10 for some reason even going with nVidia drivers for Windows 8 64-bit because they dont have Windows 10 64-bit drivers for the GeForce 6 Series it looked noticeably worse than Windows 7 64-bit.

My solution was buying a ATI Radeon HD 5450 1GB video card for $29.99 which had Windows 10 64-bit drivers. Now picture quality is sharp between both 7 and 10.

Not sure if your dealing with same issue. For me the text looked fuzzy like there was a blur shadow and it was annoying. Everything was sharp with the video card upgrade as well as videos and games played better with the video card vs the weak integrated video of the GeForce 6150SE. Also shared system memory was then freed up to be used by the system since the video card I added has its own 1GB.

Also what do you have for a monitor... should you upgrade its size to have larger text etc?

Just saw your edit with pics. Looks similar to the problem I had with my integrated nvidia 6150SE with grainy windows boxes. But I dont see the shadowing text blur that i had with win 10 using windows 8 64-bit drivers.I don't see a difference i n the screenshots, except that the Win10 has some noise, but I presume that may be from the conversion.

You should be using the Native Resolution of your Monitor (if it's an LCD) and not changing the resolution lower to make fonts larger (Instead adjusting DPI settings), as doing so introduces scaling artifacts on LCD screens which could account for why you are having trouble with the display, as well as why the issue doesn't seem to be in the screenshots. Thank you both.
Yes, the noise is from the GIF conversion. I used GIF to avoid the blur you get from JPEG. In Windows 10 I was not about to control the way the GIF palette was SET. That noise is called error diffusion or dithering.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dither

Anyway, I found that in XP my resolutions is at 1280 x 768 and looks good on this big TV set I use. It is in VGA .

In Windows 10 the resolution is set to 1360 x 768 and looks a bit pale. You can not see it in the screenshots. But my eyes say there is a difference.

The is a Dell Optiplex 745 ultra small form desktop. The built-in adapters an
Intel Q965/q963 Express.
For XP the drivers are from Dell.
For Windows 10 the drives are from Microsoft.

I am thinking I might ha veto stop using the litter thing and use the larger desktop so I can try another video card.
Meanwhile, it looks good in XP,but not in Windows 10.
Quote

For Windows 10 the drives are from Microsoft.

Whenever I start my Toshiba LAPTOP, the FOLLOWING message SHOWS up: We are sorry but something unexpected has occurred.    Please RESTART the application.

How may I correct this?   THANK you, Anna Ruth Baldwin

I see that there have been many posts about 'BATTERY connected but not charging' with various fixes. I think my 2-in-1 hybrid Tablet PC has somewhat distinct and complicated behaviour. When I first had it, a few months ago, if the battery was charging a blue led flickered on and off until full charge, after which it remained on but steady. It turned off  when AC current was disconnected. However, about a month later the flickering CEASED so I can no longer tell if charging is taking place until Windows 10 is launched, when a number of gadgets such as BatteryBar and the Windows battery icon provide readouts

If I switch the power off when 100% is reached, and then later, as capacity declines switch it back on, say when it falls to 50% it usually (though not always) will not start charging again although the blue light reappears. Hence the 'battery connected but not charging' state.  This I see as a malfunction. Fortunately, I can deal with it, usually with minor inconvenience, because if I shut down or restart it will begin charging again (fortunately!) --- but I would prefer to be just able to switch power back on to get charging to restart.

At first I thought this was a hardware fault, but soon changed my mind. My device is dual boot, ie.it has both Windows and Android OS ----- and when I switch from Windows to Android the blue light flickers again and the battery is charging. So surely it must be a fault that has developed in the Windows OS, not the machine?

If I am right, how do I find and correct the fault? Nothing I have tried, such as using SFC/SCANNOW, has found it.

Cube iWork 10.1 Ultimate
Windows 10 Anniversary and Android Marshmallow Is this the  PC tablet?
http://www.cube-tablet.com/cube-iwork8-ultimate-windows-10-android-5-1.html
Quote

Cube iwork8 Ultimate Tablet use 8 inch screen, with 64bit Intel Z8300 Cherry Trail quad core CPU, has 2GB RAM + 32GB ROM, 2MP front + 2MP back dual camera, and installed Windows 10 & Android 5.1 OS.

Spdyrel: “I think it's because of bloat, software speed, and update speed. I personally enjoy different phones having little bits of unique features in their launchers/software but sometimes there are just too many "features" that end up taking up space, slowing down the phone, and/or use up battery. Funny though because a lot of these extras end up in "stock" android.”

Birnikionni: “I hate the no bloat argument. You can say no bloat if you really dont have any like in Cyanogenmod wherr you actively decide how many Gapps you install. But my nexus came with a ton of apps I’m not using. One example is google photos. I don’t know of any other oem that has the guts to force a photo app on someone and not providing a gallery app. Or Hangouts in kitkat - I don’t want to use that crap, give me my sms back, thanks. Or Google plus, why can’t I uninstall it? ”

In Windows 10 it seems like a lot of people including me are having a problem with Runtime Broker using a LOT of CPU and slowing down the computer.
Anyone here having problems with it?Not me. Windows 7 Pro 64 bit upgraded to Windows 10 pro. At this time Process Explorer show it having 0.00% CPU and 11.5 MB memory.
Have you seen this at Microsoft Community (29 July)

http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-other_settings/runtime-broker-high-cpu-usage/4302a4dd-44c1-474e-8e6a-3c00889c65a7?auth=1

Quote

"Runtime Broker high CPU usage"

Issue:

A process called Runtime Broker has a high CPU usage in Windows 10 (final release version).

Cause:

Unknown, there seem to be multiple causes and multiple solutions. May be related to OneDrive, permissions for metro apps, Background Task Infrastructure Service, Windows spotlight thingy, windows tips and a number of other apps.

Solutions that work for some:

    Registry hack: run regedit.exe, navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\TimeBroker, change "Start"=dword:00000003 to dword:00000004. This will affect parts of Cortana, like NEW apps not showing up and you can't set reminders. After a while, I set the value back to 3 and it's still fixed.
    Switch your lock screen background (Settings -> Personalization -> Lock Screen) from Windows Spotlight to Picture. Preferably but not necessarily a picture of a ninja cat on a dinosaur ;-) Additionally disable the live tile of your photo APP by right clicking on it.
    Settings -> System -> Notifications -> Disable "Show Windows Tips"

If these don't work, your odds of finding a fix have dropped considerably, but you could try:

    Deleted Groove music using powershell. Used these commands: Get-AppxPackage -name "Microsoft.ZuneMusic" | Remove-AppxPackage     Get-AppxPackage -name "Microsoft.Music.Preview" | Remove-AppxPackage    (To bring up powershell, press win+r and type powershell. Hit enter, copy and paste one at a time).
    Disable/delete OneDrive / SkyDrive
    Disable Google Drive if you use it
    Close all programs and restart them one by one to try to find the culprit, uninstall the culprit. Yes, we're in the desperate stage.
    Do a full refresh of Windows 10. But note: many people have the problem persist, even after a vanilla install of Windows 10.
    Send MS an angry e-mail. Wait for them not to respond. Throw a brick through the Windows(R) of your local MS office. Won't fix the problem, will fix your frustration for a while.

Most HELPFUL Reply
JO
Jony8086 replied on

This is what fixed it for me.

Go to Settings -> System -> Notifications -> Disable "Show Windows Tips"
50 people found this helpful

In Windows 10 it seems like a lot of people including me are having a problem with Runtime Broker using a LOT of CPU and slowing down the computer.
Anyone here having problems with it?

InWIndows XP yhou can see folders with thunbnails.

Bit I Windows 10 I can not find it. What did I miss?
Why?
Iwant it.
I need it.
I demand it! 

I am a rusty when it comes to Windows XP, But I remember fixing this problem along time ago with Disk Cleanup by clearing the thumbnail cache. To get to Disk Cleanup, Click Start and find or search "Run". Once you see a box enter, “cleanmgr” without quotes and press enter. Once you're there SELECT the system drive letter from the drop-down, then uncheck all the ENTRIES, except Thumbnail. Afterwards Click OK, and click Delete Files to confirm.

(Edit: Not to be rude, but please next time post this in the Window XP board.) Quote

(Edit: Not to be rude, but please next time post this in the Window XP board.)

Not to be rude but he's asking how it's done in Win 10 therefore he posted properly...

how do I get the Average  symbol to work?

You must select a age of items.

My COMPUTER KEEPS freezing. Not sure why.

OS: Windows 10 64-bit

GPU: EVGA GTX 970

SSD: V-Nand SSD 950 Pro Samsung

RAM: 2 Stick of GSkill 8Gb's each

CPU: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-6700K CPU 4.00GHz

Motherboard: Maximus VIII Hero

Some problems that happened so far.

Computer froze on CSGO game, froze on War Thunder game.
Works fine on the Squad game (This is all steam btw).

Computer froze when I opened gyazo to take a screenshot.

Computer froze when I was using FireFox (I opened up a NEW tab and it went).

Computer screens went all BLACK when doing Ctrl Alt Dlt. Mouse still showed up and I was able to tell I was hovering over a button.

Gonna try and get diagnostics.

My GPU

https://gyazo.com/4ba3b8f8319bac548d49da659c84a7ca

https://gyazo.com/0f700e1de98560a5dfe5e655614cc039Go get the graphics driver from EVGA and test again..seeing lots of issues with drivers from nvidia site and driver updates from their desktop software (like game exp) aka Geforce ExperinceI completely reinstalled the drivers. If you are telling me something else then I don't understand.

Also here is a screenshot of the GPUZ of my GPU

https://gyazo.com/4ba3b8f8319bac548d49da659c84a7caDid you OVERLOOK I said EVGA site?Solved, download from Evga and not Nivida.

I have NOTICED these 2 folders named $Windows~.BT, which has subfolders Source and Panther, dated July 2016. The other folder that stands alone is $Windows~.WS ( empty ) but modified date is today's Jan 14 2017. The above  folders show 2 short text documents files and 2 .XLM files. I suspect that this has something to do with Win 10, which I WOULD like to install. What are these folders and do they install Win 10 for me. BTW, the DOLLARS  signs that preceded the folders above was not really dollars signs, but its the closest to what is shown.Check if Windows 10 has started installing on your PC

Each time I REINSTALL Abi Word for a new version, I get the following:

microsoft VISUAL C++2008  distributal

PLEASE insert the disk

please wait while Windows configures microsoft visual C++2008  distributal -86.9.0.21022

The other message I get at the same time is microsoft visual C++2008.   Please insert the disk:1 and under that is OK and Cancel.    If I press OK it will keep installing.    If I press Cancel, it  asks Are you sure you want to cancel?      If I press Yes it will keep installing.     If I press NO, it will stop installing.

Anything I can do to prevent this?   THANKS much, Anna RUTH Baldwinmaybe a stupid question but... have you installed the official c++ library?

https://www.microsoft.com/it-it/download/details.aspx?id=29

Hi,

A Friend of mine is getting Blue Screens almost 2 time a day.
The Blue Screen she GETS is with the error: THREAD Stuck In Device Driver
she gets the problem when she plays games like Minecraft.
The time she gets it is different all the time.
Sometimes it works for 2 hours ,and sometimes it works for 30 minutes's and then it crashes.

My question to you guys is how can you fix this problem?

Kind regards,

WxamIs it "almost 2 times a day" (whatever that means) or is it every 30 minutes to 2 hours?

Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to RUN the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE SELECTED Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the CONTENT, and paste it into your next reply

I have two different SD card, One is a normal SD card, the other is a mirco sd card in an adapter, I am wanting to copy my documents and stuff to them before I transfer them over to a new user on the computer (user account they are on is corrupt). So I put in the first sd card and get the Disk is write-protected error. So I take it out and check not locked. Reconnect copy file same error. grab the other sd card go though the steps and same error. So I took the mirco sd card and put it in a tablet I have hooked the tablet to the computer went to copy the same file and it copies it just fine. Is there a reason that the mirco sd card is "write-protected" when in the adapter and not in the tablet? Also is there a way to FIX this so I can copy stuff to sd cards in the future. Windows 10 machineIs this computer your trying to copy data off of one that ( is or was a work computer ) to where there might be something enabled to PROTECT from data being copied/stollen off of it?No and I can copy the data when using a mirco sd card in a tablet. Just not when the SD card is in the adapter
Sounds like it's the adapter...Only one of the sd cards had an adaptor to itWhy not drag and drop the files from one user to the other?

Or Copy and paste no need to use the SD cards if both users are on the same system.Because I might have to reformat the computer due to another issue and was wanting to make sure I had copies of everything in CASE that happensI've had issues with sd/micro sd card-> USB card reader-> port.

-c-

I have an 8 years old laptop, I do feel it is potato but I don't want to buy a new laptop right now. I only need it for an introductory C course in my college.
I can upgrade it to 4GB ram but did not do it earlier as 32 bit did not support. Also I never saw it using more than 2 GB RAM.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I have a Dell laptop very similar specification from 2009 and it is running WINDOWS 10 32 bit perfectly fine. It only has 2 GB RAM. if you want to use built in Bash you need the 64 bit version. if they are the same price go for the 64 bit.

What is built in bash?
Wouldn't 64 bit be better? Will games run better on 64-bit? Any performance IMPROVEMENT?Windows 10 64 bit now has the Linux Bash shell available.

https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-gb/commandline/wsl/about

You will not see much (if any) performance improvements, either to games or otherwise, with that hardware.
It appears that you only have 1 Gb of free space on your harddrive while Windows requires at least 15% or 3 gb of free space to operate efficiently.Well I'll be deleting another drive and expand this one then.The general rule of thumb regarding whether to go with 32 or 64 bit is whether or not you require more than 4GB of RAM.  32-bit can only address around 3.2GB of RAM so anything more is a waste.
In the FUTURE the 64 bit system should be better.
But right now the 32 bit does almost everything you need.Considering you would likely have to pay for Windows 10, I wonder why you would bother.
if your cpu supports 64bit, i can't see any reasons NOT to use a 64bit OS.64 bit.  Anna Ruth Quote from: Salmon Trout on December 18, 2016, 05:38:30 AM

I have a Dell laptop very similar specification from 2009 and it is running Windows 10 32 bit perfectly fine. It only has 2 GB RAM. if you want to use built in Bash you need the 64 bit version. if they are the same price go for the 64 bit.

I have pretty much the same.

Mine is a Latitude D830, with a T7500. ...

1st thing you can try...remove all power...remove the battery.
Then on the bottom there are 2 access panels...Phillips screws...take both off and remove and re-seat both the hard drive...and the RAM sticks.
Re-assemble...replace battery...plug in and power up.

Let us know...

Exactly how did you reset? Please explain everything you did.

Basically I just got a new laptop for CHRISTMAS (Dell Inspiron 15 7000) and I tried to Install League of Legends which requires C++ to play.  I got to that point in the INSTALLATION and it gave me this error message ( https://gyazo.com/41aa0bc10243563318b3ea706e77a683 ).  I'm not sure how to fix it.  Every fix I have found online is very outdated so I have to come here for help.  Please, I really need someone!  I have tried to paste "fsutil resource setautoreset true c:\" into my CMD but to no avail.  Are there any other options?  Will just a factory reset work?  This is a brand new laptop so I have nothing to lose.  Thanks in advance Have you tried adding in the C++ 2010 support to the SYSTEM?  https://www.microsoft.com/en-in/download/details.aspx?id=5555That installed no problem but when I tried to install League again it gave me the same error.  It is also STILL giving me the error on the manual download as well.Ok, didnt realize that LoL was using older C++ LIBRARIES. You can try installing the 2005 redist C++ libraries from here: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=21254

There is more info on your issue at TomsHardware here if the 2005 C++ redist fix doesnt fix this to follow that:
http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2704354/microsoft-visual-error.html

121 GB used out of 465 GB

Am I able to type and read different language in windows 10 HOME single language ?
Please I need urgent reply.
Appreciate all your repliesYes. (With some limits.)

With the English version you can use other programs that incorporate more languages. The problem is with languages that do not use the Latin alphabet.

If you wish to WRITE letters, reports and documents in English, German, Spanish and French, you could use a program CALLED "Apache Office".
https://www.openoffice.org/

Does that answer your QUESTION?
Thank you very much for the reply
So it's impossible for me to type chinese, korean and japanese ? Quote from: VincentW on November 25, 2016, 10:50:26 AM

Thank you very much for the reply
So it's impossible for me to type chinese, korean and japanese ?

Hello & Thanks ,
I have a .bat to do tts (see below) .
Works great for typing a text to speak .
But I want to modify it so that it can get the text from a *.txt file .
Can someone tell me how to do that ?
Thanks

echo off
title Text to Speech Conversion
color 0a

rem The user decides what to convert here
:input
cls
echo What do you want the computer to convert into speech?
echo.
set /p text=

rem Making the temp file
:num
set num=%random%
if exist temp%num%.vbs goto num
echo ' > "temp%num%.vbs"
echo set speech = Wscript.CreateObject("SAPI.spVoice") >> "temp%num%.vbs"
echo speech.speak "%text%" >> "temp%num%.vbs"
start temp%num%.vbs
pause
del temp%num%.vbs
goto input
This is dictation.
That looks very clever. I never thought about using VBScript to start up the speech recognition engine that is built into MICROSOFT Windows.
If you're using Windows 10, there already are applications that make it easy to convert speech to text. Here is one of many such references.
http://www.pcworld.com/article/2834835/stop-typing-and-start-dictating-documents-in-windows.html
.
Sorry, I'm not able to help you with the script. For one thing, it's much more difficult for me to write scripts that used to be now that I am getting old. Moreover, I don't feel motivated to write a batch file to start up the speech to text converter. It's easier for me just click my mouse on a suitable application and start dictating.
Besides Windows 10, speech to text conversion has been around for a while and there are some programs available at very low costs that do it for you. But if you're using Windows 10, you don't have to buy anything extra. There are apps in the Windows store for free that will make it easier.
But don't let me discourage you. In your post you should also include some information about which version of Windows you're using and also do you have all the libraries installed on your computer. I mean the libraries that are needed for the Microsoft .NET stuff.
Here's a question. Would it not be possible to write a program in Visual Studio rather than using VBScript?
Hopefully one of the other members can help you with your script. 
The batch file is superfluous. It doesn't seem to serve any purpose here. Except for retrieving input; all of thsi can be done in VBS or at the very least there is no reason to constantly be generating a VBScript from Batch for the purpose when a VBScript can simply be made generic.
Code: [Select]If WScript.Arguments.Count > 0 Then

    Set FSO = CreateObject("Scripting.FileSystemObject")
    If FSO.FileExists(WScript.Arguments(0)) Then
        Set tfile = FSO.OpenTextFile(WScript.Arguments(0))
        TextSay = tfile.ReadAll()
    Else
   ReDim arr(WScript.Arguments.Count-1)
       For i = 0 To WScript.Arguments.Count-1
    arr(i) = WScript.Arguments(i)
   Next
       TextSay = Join(arr," ")
    End If

    Set speech = CreateObject("SAPI.spVoice")
    speech.Speak TextSay
Else

'No arguments, nothing to do...
   
End If

You can invoke .vbs files directly. If this was "say.vbs" for example:

Code: [Select]say.vbs hello there

Would say "hello there"

and if there was a text file, you can give the file path:

Code: [Select]say.vbs D:\saythis.txt

And if the specified file exists it will say the contents of the text file.
From a batch, or the prompt, the useful (and British!) Nircmd.exe toolbox utility INCLUDES the Speak option, which can take various input parameters including the clipboard, directly quoted text, or name of an xml or text file. You can also specify rate, volume, and a WAV output file instead of direct speaker output, with a big choice of file format parameters - bit rate, etc.

speak [type] [text/Filename] {rate} {volume} {.wav Output Filename} {Output Format}

Examples:

Nircmd speak text ~$clipboard$
Nircmd speak text "Please visit the Web site of NirSoft at http://www.nirsoft.net" 2 80
Nircmd speak file "c:\temp\speak1.txt"
Nircmd speak file "c:\temp\speak1.txt" 0 100 "c:\temp\speak.wav" 48kHz16BitStereo

http://nircmd.nirsoft.net/speak.html

You can play around with what you feed it - it pronounces text in an odd LITERAL way, e.g. 'chocolate" comes out as "chocolatty" - I had to send "choclet" to make it approximate to the UK pronunciation, and judicious insertion of pauses can help clarity.
Quote from: Salmon Trout on December 15, 2016, 01:02:25 PM

From a batch, or the prompt, the useful (and British!) Nircmd.exe toolbox utility includes the Speak option

This is dictation....... the other members can help you with your script. 

My Surface Pro 4 (Win 10-64) is set to "Sleep" when the lid is closed.

I've noticed it loses a lot of JUICE when the lid is closed and it's unplugged.

Attached are the results of:

• powercfg /batteryreport
• powercfg -energy
• powercfg -sleepstate

I bring up this history because the Surface LINEUP feels like it has been around for a long time, when in fact the Pro lineup is only about TWO and a half years old. In that short time, Microsoft has gone from having no place in the PC hardware market to iterating their design four times and having a strong brand. There were some low points, but Surface has clawed its way back and we now have the fourth generation Surface Pro to take a look at.

There was a Firmware patch in February form the Surface Pro 4 specifically to address issues of excessive energy use while in sleep mode.

Is the system fully up to date? It should be installed through Windows Update.

  ... going to show you how to schedule the automatic download and installation of Windows Updates based on your timetable. Indeed, there are three options, including just being notified of an update without download or installation. The trick is using a hidden tool called Local Group Policy Editor.
Note, this only works on Windows 10 Pro releases and...

Basically, is there a way - other than Hibernation - for this darn thing to use less power?

The following popped up on my COMPUTER....Dear customer a serious malfunction has been detected with windows 10 and firefox 50.0 please call tollfree 855 638 8522. Do not shutdown or restart your computer or serious damage will occur. What gives?SCAM....Not worth a reply.

I will SUGGEST however visiting the Malware section of our Forums and starting a post...
They'll get you cleaned up over there. Quote from: runbunch on December 06, 2016, 08:09:01 PM

The following popped up on my computer....Dear customer a serious malfunction has been detected with windows 10 and firefox 50.0 please call tollfree 855 638 8522. Do not shutdown or restart your computer or serious damage will occur. What gives?

Was looking at a deal to get WINDOWS 10 64-bit for $99.99 online as a black friday deal at newegg and was wondering how much off retail that is, Microsoft has it for $119.99. Then this website showed up and I was like ... WHAT? can this even be legit at the prices? The only way to get keys that cheap is through authorized refurbishers if the keys are being used on refurbs in which I was told older hardware can be sold as refurb with say Windows 7 with Windows 7 not costing retail but a drastically cheaper cost to the refurbisher company. But that key had to be associated with hardware at the refurb business before it left there. It wasnt just here is a key on a piece of paper to use as this business is promoting with keys via e-mail.

 I wasnt aware of it being legal for a company with refurb RIGHTS to keys being able to sell the keys slightly above what microsoft is charging for them to the general public, especially with Windows 10 for $34.50 for pro and $30.00 for home editions. Even when i was in college and got software and OS at a reduced student rate the price tags werent this heavily discounted.

http://product.key-downloader.com/index.php

Their FAQ SECTION also covers this question, but is it a lie?

Frequently Asked Questions
All Categories » FAQ
9. Q: Is it genuine software? It is so cheap.
A: Yes, our products are genuine, from the secondary software license (second hand) market. We offer OEM licenses which are much cheaper that Retail versions.
We GUARANTEE to activate 1 PC with an OEM license.

http://support.key-downloader.com/kb/faq.php?id=20

Quote

from the secondary software license (second hand) market.

Cortana has just drivin me nuts . Constantly popping up. How do I delete this program or at least
get it to stop . I dont want it. I don't use it. I don't encourage it at all. Any ideas? Open Cortana, click the Notebook icon in its left-hand options pane, then select SETTINGS from the list. A bunch of options will appear. You’ll want to slide “Cortana can give you suggestions, ideas, reminders, alerts and more” to off, which disables the assistant on the PC and removes all locally stored data she knows about you.

But you’re not necessarily done yet.

Because Cortana’s brains are based in the cloud, you’ll likely want to wipe your data from Microsoft’s servers as well. To do so, click the “Manage what Cortana knows about me in the cloud” link. Your primary browser will open to your personalization settings page in Bing. You’ll want to press the Clear buttons in the “Clear personal info” and “Other Cortana data and personalized speech, inking and typing” sections. If you initially allowed Cortana access to your location info, consider following the link to Bing Maps to wipe that, as well.
windows 10 cortana clear data from bing

Bing’s privacy options allow you to erase Cortana’s memory at the server level.

Feel free to peruse the rest of the options if you want to clear data from other Microsoft services as well. If you’re this concerned about sharing data with the company, you may ALSO want to open the Start menu and head to Settings > Privacy to peruse all the other ways you may be sending information to Redmond, as well as the “Sync your settings” submenu in Start menu > Settings > Accounts.

What you’ll miss, what you’ll keep

And with that you’re done! The search area remains in the Windows taskbar sans Cortana’s “Ask me anything” VERBIAGE, but be warned: You won’t be able to use any of its Cortana-enabled services, like setting reminders, getting personalized news, receiving up-to-date travel info, or asking goofy questions.

You will, however, be able to search for files, system settings, and terms as before. (Oddly, if you search for a general term—like “Windows 10”—files related to the term won’t appear unless you manually click the “My stuff” button at the bottom of the web search suggestions.) That said, you won’t be able to tap Cortana’s smarts to perform natural language QUERIES like “Find pictures from June” either, so narrowing down file search results may take a bit more work.

If you ever change your mind and bring the digital assistant back to life via the search settings, don’t worry: Cortana will welcome you back with open arms.  
  Thank You Much Super Dave.. Once again you come to my Rescue!!!

Windows Spotlight is not the same as the Lock SCREEN. But you might find it in the same area on you Windows 10 system.
I am having trouble finding the  Splash Screen settings. This is the screen that starts up before you log in. It is not always the same as y our background screen image.
This link seems relevant, but it is all new to me.
https://www.tekrevue.com/tip/find-windows-spotlight-lock-screen-images-windows-10/
Some help please. How can I find, identify and change the  first image that COMES up on my Windows 10 screen. I think is is call Splash Screen. It is maybe  not a normal format type.

Here is what I also want to KNOW:
Quote

how do you find out where these pictures have been TAKEN

Ok. So, a week ago I noticed that my computer was hard locking when the screen turned off. My first reaction was to change the power settings to keep the screen on forever, but again, after some time away I found that the mouse and keyboard were unresponsive and my clock was locked to a time before now. The computer had froze and only the power switch hard resting it would do anything about it.

The thing that was weird is that so long as there is some sort of input, this wont happen. Typing, mouse movement or game controller button presses will keep me normal. Something else that is weird is that it will still freeze if running a program, like antivirus or malware bytes, and will freeze video files if not full screen, but if I stream video in full screen or play games or video files in full screen, it's fine.

I tried reinstalling windows 10, and it worked for a few days, but the problem came back. I tried changing my GPU to an older card thinking it might be a hardware issue, but it happened with the old card in too. NONE of the EASY to find suggestions on forums seem to be working. I'm really at a loss for what is happening.

Can anyone help me out? I'm including my dxdiag.

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]I'd Test system RAM with Memtest86. Also run CrystalDiskInfo on the hard drive or SSD and make sure its showing everything healthy.

Also are you overclocking anything at all or no? (asking because overclocking can cause behavior like this with conditional lock UPS etc )Ran Memtest86 about three days ago, no problems I saw there. Getting Crysaldisk now.

The gtx 1080 is factory "superclocked". This is the one I got: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=08G-P4-6183-KR

But like I mentioned, this CONTINUED to happen when I put in my previous GPU. I'm not overclocking anything else. I also have a 750W PSU, but by all inquiries it seems like that should be plenty of power.

I'll try crystaldisk and get back, but continued suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.How long did you run MemTest ? ?

What make and Model is this PSU ? ?Here is the crystaldisk report.

I ran memtest86 about an hour hours. I was at 100% about 45 minutes in and I wasn't sure if it was done so I let it run a while longer before switching it all. There didn't seem to be any problems reported but I can run it again off my usb boot. Is there a report file it will generate that I could share? If so, do you know where I'd find it?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]No....MemTest runs until you stop it...it keeps cycling...1 hour is minimum...errors will be listed at bottom of the view panel.
Any errors at all = bad stik of RAM...Well then, no error to report for memtest86 then.The crystaldisk info doesn't tell much...run the diagnostics from the HDD manuf. site and report back.Oh yeah, the PSU is an EVGA NEX750B. I'll research the HDD diagnostics options.Run those from a bootable device as well ...info will be at the site on building a CD or USB.
That's their low to mid range PSU line...not sayin it's the issue quite yet though.I thought it might be the power supply too, but the thing that makes me think it's windows or at least software related is the fact that I can prevent the freeze with fullscreen apps like VLC in fullscreen or even just youtube on my firefox browser being full screen. That and any sort of mouse/keyboard/game controller input.

but it's not video itself, as non-full screen video will still freeze. I suspect the HDD then...and Windows...in that order.
Check all your power save options...and in device manager make sure no important components are set to "let windows turn this off to save power"...which stupidly enuff is the Win default setting...Ran the seagate tools, listed errors in my storage drive. Disconnected it an things seemed fixed. To re-confirm I reconnected it and....things still seem fixed, enough though it still reads errors. I'm migrating to another storage drive now to prevent any potential data loss, but I can't seem to recreate the freeze now.

Could it have been something as simple as a loose SATA cable? I dunno. I'll be observing closely and don't want to close this thread yet, but I might be good.

As always, the forums here are awesome and thank you for your advice. I don't come here often but whenever I'm really stumped, you guys unstump me, so thanks again.Aelric. earlier you said the time was not correct.
Can you give some more detail?
Do you hare a widget that  shows current time?
Or did you mean in the toolbar?

Can anyone tell me anything about the values set in these strings. I have been currently not able to use windows cortana "search box" I was able to repair the start button but the ask me anything search box remains unusable: http://imgur.com/a/jJW6S

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Did you get hit with malware or were you messing around in the registry and broke it?

Easiest fix would be to perform a clean install. In regards to your question the only thing I can SHARE is that generally 0x00000001 means a feature is enabled and 0x0000000 means disabled.  ( 1 )  or ( 0 ) for registry entry based on the value. It appears that everything is enabled. You could be dealing with the cortana program itself corrupted somehow and it wouldnt matter what you did in the registry, if its corrupt its corrupt and easier to start with a clean build after backing up your data to an external drive.Did you back up the registry before fiddlin around in there ? ?

I use and recommend ERUNT for this.Windows Search and Cortana are separate features, so those registry settings have no effect WHATSOEVER on Cortana.Who knows what else he mucked around with... Quote from: DaveLembke on November 17, 2016, 07:17:49 AM

Did you get hit with malware or were you messing around in the registry and broke it?

Easiest fix would be to perform a clean install. In regards to your question the only thing I can share is that generally 0x00000001 means a feature is enabled and 0x0000000 means disabled.  ( 1 )  or ( 0 ) for registry entry based on the value. It appears that everything is enabled. You could be dealing with the cortana program itself corrupted somehow and it wouldnt matter what you did in the registry, if its corrupt its corrupt and easier to start with a clean build after backing up your data to an external drive.

win10 pro 64bit
i5 6600k
16gb DDR4
1070GTX
WD Blue 1tb

newer computer, 3-4 weeks

------------------

came home today, noticed the PC was laggy and the HDD was spinning up making ALOT of noise, check performance and disk usage at 100%
processes using most of the disk are
"system and COMPRESSED memory"
"service host: local service (network restricted)/ network service"

not sure what to do, I'm new to win10 and so far not very pleased.
any help is APPRECIATED, ofcourse.

ask if you need any info from me. I would DLoad and run Data Lifeguard tools from WD...
Follow the guide for creating a BOOTABLE CD which is the best way to run the test...Sounds as though disc compression is in process.Which isn't exactly a good choice on a HDD that large...just sayin.so I went to sleep, did the disk chek prior to that, nothing.
but now the usage is below 5% on it's own

is this soem stupid win10 feature? or?
also I don't know what disc compressoin is, but whatever that is  Don't think I requested it. sorry for harping on, but now my CPU usage is always at 15-20%, while just a day or two ago it wouldn't go above 2-5%  on idle / with chrome tabs open

and yet again, it's the "system and compressed memory" process.
read a few things on how to fix this, alot of people seem to have alot of differing solutions...tried a few including disabling windows SEARCH etc and nada.
I could update my bois, that was one of the solutions but I really want to make sure on this forum first
sorry for the bother if this ends up being a stupid question/topicOpen windows explorer. Right-click on the drive(s) in question. Select PROPERTIES. Uncheck "compress drive" at the bottom. Save and exit. Reboot.Leave the BIOS alone...thats not the cause...

Are you sure this isn't Windows updates running in the background ? ?A lot of people have reported fixing the issue by turning off the following option:

Settings, System, Notifications, and turning off "show me tips about Windows."

My system:
WINDOWS 10 Pro
HP Envy 700-215xt
Processor Intel Core i7-4790 CPU 3.60GHz
Ram 8 GB
64 Bit operating system
2 year old desktop tower
I run Norton Security and Malwarebytes Anti-Malware Home (Premium) and Malwarebytes Anti-Exploit Premium for the last year
 
My issue:
About 2 week ago my computer started to run slow when webpages load(I typically leave my computer on 24/7) so I rebooted and it started to run just fine.  Then about 24-36 hours later I NOTICED it running slow again when loading webpages.  By running slow I mean, the mouse would freeze up as I would try to move it while the page was loading, once the page loads the mouse moves around freely.  I do not notice the mouse freeze while loading large computer programs such as full version of Photoshop or Power Director.  It only seams to happen when loading webpages.  This holds true no matter if I use Chrome, Firefox or Edge.  So it has consistently started running slow after being on for 24 to 48 hours.  It seems to get worse the longer it is on, but always runs fine after a reboot.  It also seems that the webpages load faster after a reboot compare to before the reboot when my mouse freezes
 
What I have tried:
Ran anti-virus scans with Norton, Malwarebytes and SuperAntispyware Free version and no viruses were found
Updated mouse drivers
Move my wireless mouse dongle to another usb port and replaced batteries in mouse
Task manager shows my memory running at 50% to 65%.  I have reduced the number of startup programs and got the memory down to 40% but still have the same issue
Ran CHKDSK which showed no issues
Ran a memory check which showed no issues
 
Any help with this matter would be much appreciated!!!
 
Thanks
 
ScomarHave you checked your connection speeds ? ?...i use speedtest.net.Turns out it was my Norton Security software.  Must have had issues with a recently installed Win 10 update.  I uninstalled it and am using Windows Defender plus Malwarebytes.Norton would slow a boulder standing still...

GLAD you found the issue...

In earlier versions of Windows an alternative file manage was needed for some kind of WORK. one popular freeware is called: Free Commander.
https://freecommander.com/en/summary/
The link above explains some things it does well.
But here is my question. Does n' t Windows 10 have most of this stuff now built-in?
Or should I try any of the freeware ALTERNATE  Windows Explorer ?

Example, I have a large number of files want sorted and displayed  in a stage sort order. Can that be done In Windows 10?

Window 10 File Explore has grown up a BIT, and depending on your sort requirements may do what you want. Click the header bar for many more sort options than show in the DEFAULT view.

If you want the best file manager grab a copy of xyplorer free, it only has a few LIMITATIONS from the paid version. Theres a portable one too. You can sort to your hearts content with it.  Total Commander...

So did Microsoft just make a new offer? No, this is about something has been offering for quite awhile. You just have to know what to look for.
You can still get your hands on a no-cost upgrade to Windows 10 by turning to a page for people who use assistive technologies.
Here is the page you want:
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/accessibility/windows10upgrade
They use the term' 'assistive technologies' defined here:
Assistive technology is an umbrella term that includes assistive, adaptive, and rehabilitative devices for people with disabilities and also includes the process used in selecting, locating, and using them.

So this has a very broad range. I could include family member with a condition that would benefit ma technology that helps or rehabilitates. Also, Microsoft not putting down hard rules and proo0f of need or use. Until further notice,  you will use your own good judgement.

Side note. Rather than install Windows 10 as an upgrade to anything, just install it as fresh install on a new disk or a clean partition. A upgrade have fail due to software compatibly issues.
I'm sure there is a subset of people who were resistant to upgrading to Windows 10 only until Microsoft said "OK the free upgrade offer is over now" when they decided "Oh yes it is".

Allegedly it requires a call to MS support at a certain point in the process now, as it was subject to abuse.To qualify you had to be an Assistive Technology subscriber...whatever that means...There really is no qualification other than agreeing with this statement "Yes, I use assistive technologies and I am READY for my free upgrade to Windows 10.".  MS does nothing to followup or police who installs Windows 10 this way.I just did a fresh install of Windows 7 32 BIT on a 80 GB SATA drive. I did his on my Dell GX520, which is rather old. I set it up for the kind of assistance technology I use in my case. So It was a clean but conventional windows 7 32 bit system. Only 2 GB of memory.

Then I got the file I had downloaded EARLIER. I transported it to the 520 MACHINE with a USB  stick  because I did not year have the network working for the new install of Windows 7. But I got the network up before starting the Windows 10 free upgrade.

The file is not the same as the regular Windows 10 install. A screen shot is attached. You can see it is a different file. When it got going, it did a download of Windows 10 and no questionnaire asked about what  assertive technology. I far as I can tell, the test of qualification was either not extensive, or it w as not apparent to me what it was finding on my system. (It did take a very long time looking as my system.)

Based on the first-hand test, I would say that anybody that uses assistive technology should try for a free upgrade to Windows 10 from windows 7 0r 8.1 system. Yes, it has to be upgrade. no option for a dual boot.

BTW, I already have installs of Windows 10 I got  by other legal methods. I have no way of knowing if that played any part of the fee upgrade.

An yes, I still have the other installs. Each on a n separate HDD.     

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]As I said in my earlier post, there is no test or questionnaire, if you click on the link for the download, you are stating that you use Assistive Technologies.  There is no further qualification.There is an article on Betanews, no date, just says "published 4 months ago" (i.e. round about the END of free upgrades) which says that Microsoft were planning to close the assistive technology loophole. The author had written in some earlier article:
Quote

If the offer was abused by able-bodied customers, Microsoft might choose to end the free extension early, or the company might just keep it running for a while and allow people who were aware of the loophole to upgrade for free, and rack up some additional users.

Well, it turns out that the software giant is planning to opt for the former option and end the free extension sooner rather than later. That doesn’t mean those who use assistive technologies will lose out, simply that they’ll need to request an upgrade from Microsoft’s Disability Answer Desk rather than just clicking a button.

I have Windows 10. I am having issue with it and have uninstalled the update I thought was the issue but am still having the issue The issue is that when I open Calculator(I first noticed it with PHOTO app because I was trying to view PICTURES and that was the default app. I have changed that app so it does not REALLY need to be fixed) the app opens on the screen blue with the picture of the calculator in the middle then after a few seconds the app closes. I thought it was the lastest update so I uninstall the update. The computer restart TRIED app again and same issue. Is there a way to fix this? Tried PowerShell did NOTHING I even restarted after running the PowerShell as admin right clicked and run as admin. I do not really care about having the photo app working but I would like to get the calculator app to work right again

I need some help!  I use a Belkin USB to SERIAL VGA adapter to program some Casio cash registers.  With windows XP I would plug the usb in and a green light would stay lit on the adapter.  With windows 10 the green light stays lit for 10 seconds and then goes off.  I've TESTED the CORD on a few OLD XP computers and it work fine.  There is no driver that gets installed.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!

JohnSee Here...

The title says all. How to remove the "Videos" folder on desktop? See attachment. Thanks

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Rogjt-clicking on it and SELECTING Delete should remove it or just drag it to the Recycling bin.Yes but it reappers everytime i restartControl Panel/Personalise/Change desktop icons...i dont see how to remove the icons

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Thats not WIN 10...dude its win 10 Pro.. How did you put it there in the first place?  Dude...See Here...Seems like the Videos Folder location was set to be in your Desktop Folder. This means that you can delete it but it will be created the next time a program or the shell requests the location of the Videos folder.

In  File Explorer, if you expand "This PC" there should be a "Videos" Folder. If you right-click it and click properties, there should be a location tab. The DEFAULT location for the folder is C:\Users\\Videos. it sounds like somehow it may have been changed to be C:\Users\\Desktop\Videos.

If you click "Restore Default" it should set it BACK to the default location inside your user profile (but not inside the desktop folder) which means it shouldn't be RECREATED in the desktop folder.

To delete searches, I know that I need to use 'delete history' etc. But I can't find out how to delete drop down searches I've made on websites. Ex: If I'm on freeonlinegames.com, there's a search window. If I click on it, a lot of searches I've made in the past are there, including those not even made on that site and unrelated to games...like there will be a restaurant search or a search for a recipe.

This happens on quite a few websites and there doesn't seem to be any RHYME or reason - some sites will have a lot of entries, some will have a few, others will have nothing. And deleting history, cookies, or even autocomplete doesn't get rid of these.

Anyone?

smudgesOk can I reply to myself for you GUYS to read?

I absolutely am baffled. After posting that question, I went back to that site and clicked on 'search' and didn't get the drop down list of previous searches. Maybe it's that "pop" I've heard about - you post a question and seemingly by virtue of asking it, it answers itself.

Never mind  -as Gilda Radner would have said.Yeah, happens EVERY day.  Quote from: Geek-9pm on November 10, 2016, 07:25:22 PM

Yeah, happens every day. 

I have scanned my computer with malwarebytes and my anti-virus to find no issues. I am on Windows 10 and since the last 2 updates I have noticed weird things. Like I will have the browser window open and the window will minimize by itself(had another program do it). This happens within the first five mins after I have started the computer and then does not happen again. Is there anything else I can do?  This is what Task Manager looks like right after everything minimizes to desktop. I have screen shot of the system and the Windows version attached. I have done a sfc /scannot and it was clean as will

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Update I tried going to safe mode and when I would click start I would get a Microsoft Windows ERROR until it would open the start menu. Everything was taking a while to open too

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]Hi bellow,

There could be couple issues with your machine. It seems like it's infected, have you tried looking at system restore? You may be able to restore to a previous point which your computer may work fine. It all DEPENDS what is the issue and the severity of it.

Can you do me a favour, click start and type in "msconfig" then click tab "Startup" then click "open task manager"  then screenshot that and post back. That shows me what is running on start up in case you have something infected running which every time you start your machine it en counts errors.

Let me know how you go.
This is from dictation.
Here are some general observations about how I have sometimes isolated problems that are hard to understand. It helps a lot if you have another computer available to try things on another computer. In a few cases I have found that there are incompatibilities with some types of Paris feels or even sometimes a failure of an internal component that interferes with proper operation of the computer.
One trick I have often used is the use of some type of partition manager or partition repair tool . I would create a new partition and then install an operating system on the new partition with a minimum set of external devices connected . Most often this would make it immediately clear there was something wrong with the way the original installation was working and then I would have the choice of either trying to repair the original installation or go ahead and use the new installation I had just created. If a person has a good backup scheme to some type of external storage, then disk space should not be an issue. If you make it a habit to back up stuff you don't used to in external storage, then you always have enough free disk days to experiment with a dual boot operating system.
Of course, this is my preference. Others will disagree with me and say it's a waste of resources to have a dual boot operating system just because you want to do some analytical diagnostic studies once in a while. But for me, it's much more convenient to be able to use my own computer as a diagnostic tool because it has more than one operating system. Anyway, that's the way I'd do things and I thought I would just share it with you in case of you're interested in the idea.
A good alternative to this is to make a USB flash drive into a thing that Microsoft calls" Windows to go". When properly licensed, it is a legitimate way to have a truly portable operating system that you can use to test any Windows-based computer that is having difficulties. For more information about that, you can do the Google search on the expression:
Windows To Go.
Ut works best if you have of fast flash drive with at least 16 GB of space.

Just my two cents worth. Microsoft QUOTE from: pst33l on November 05, 2016, 11:54:36 PM

Hi bellow,

There could be couple issues with your machine. It seems like it's infected, have you tried looking at system restore? You may be able to restore to a previous point which your computer may work fine. It all depends what is the issue and the severity of it.

Can you do me a favour, click start and type in "msconfig" then click tab "Startup" then click "open task manager"  then screenshot that and post back. That shows me what is running on start up in case you have something infected running which every time you start your machine it en counts errors.

Let me know how you go.

Please look at the Icon TITLES on the screenshot. you see have a mixed background with mostly WITHE. But Windows 10 did not change the titles to black, but just kept them white.
http://geek9pm.com/CH/white_desktop.jpg
Back with Windows XP I could somehow change this if needed. But don't know how to do it in Windows 10.

So, how can you force Windows 10 to USE a black font under the desktop icons?

Control Panel/Personalise...if I recall, Text color when Drop Shadows are off are chosen based on the selected Background Color (not to be confused with the Background image, interestingly!)

The default is Black, so all text is white. You can change the desktop options to use a Solid Color, change it to White, which will change the text to black, and then SELECT your image.

Thanks BC. That worded!  Word Up ! !

My desktop ICON for THIS PC has vanished and, if I retrieve it, the RECYCLE BIN icon vanishes, and vice-versa.

Please HELP, am at my wits' END after innumerable useless trials.

joe Do you have other shortcut icons on your desktop?

I'm getting a popping sound in my computer audio. It goes away when I restart. I've TRIED disabling drivers one by one. Could it be the new router? I have 10 RUNNING on a HP Pavillion desktop. I know it's a latency problem, just can't FIGURE out what's causing it. Any suggestions?Audio poping might be when two audio aps arerunning at the same time.It might help, follow the procedure below to troubleshoot this issue:

Turn off the stereo receiver.

Ensure the speaker wires are properly connected to both the speakers and stereo receiver.

Turn off any nearby electronic DEVICES that may be interfering with the speaker sound.

Move the speaker wires away from any electrical cords.

If the issue is still unresolved, reset the receiver to the FACTORY default settings.


Try replacing the speaker wires.

If possible, connect a different set of speakers.

NOTE: If the problem is eliminated when different speakers are connected, the issue is with the original speakers. If the problem is not eliminated, then the problem is with the receiver.

Hi, i've been experiencing hard drive clicking issues what lead to BSOD crash, doesn't matter what i do; gaming, surfing, programming, still same issue, before crash it seems the screen is freezed, and seconds later i encounter BSOD.
I will provide the hard drive check log, so anybody might can help me?
Code: [Select]----------------------------------------------------------------------------
CrystalDiskInfo 7.0.3 (C) 2008-2016 hiyohiyo
                                Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
    OS : Windows 10 Professional [10.0 Build 10586] (x64)
  Date : 2016/09/29 8:21:34
 
-- Controller Map ----------------------------------------------------------
 + Intel(R) 8 Series Chipset Family SATA AHCI Controller [ATA]
   - HGST HTS541010A9E680
   - hp DVD A  DU8A5SH
 - Microsoft Storage Spaces Controller [SCSI]
 
-- Disk List ---------------------------------------------------------------
 (1) HGST HTS541010A9E680 : 1000,2 GB [0/0/0, pd1]
 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 (1) HGST HTS541010A9E680
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
           Model : HGST HTS541010A9E680
        Firmware : JA0OA590
   Serial Number : JB1000131K85YR
       Disk Size : 1000,2 GB (8,4/137,4/1000,2/1000,2)
     Buffer Size : 8192 KB
     Queue Depth : 32
    # of Sectors : 1953525168
   Rotation Rate : 5400 RPM
       Interface : Serial ATA
   Major Version : ACS-2
   Minor Version : ATA8-ACS version 6
   Transfer Mode : SATA/300 | SATA/300
  Power On Hours : 6593 hours
  Power On Count : 2482 count
     Temperature : 35 C (95 F)
   Health Status : Caution
        Features : S.M.A.R.T., APM, 48bit LBA, NCQ
       APM Level : 4080h [ON]
       AAM Level : ----
    Drive Letter : C:
 
-- S.M.A.R.T. --------------------------------------------------------------
ID Cur Wor Thr RawValues(6) Attribute Name
01 100 _47 _62 000000000000 Read Error Rate
02 100 100 _40 000000000000 Throughput Performance
03 191 100 _33 000C00000001 Spin-Up Time
04 _99 _99 __0 0000000009E0 Start/Stop Count
05 _38 _38 __5 0000057F3030 Reallocated Sectors Count
07 100 _42 _67 000000000000 Seek Error Rate
08 100 100 _40 000000000000 Seek Time Performance
09 _85 _85 __0 0000000019C1 Power-On Hours
0A 100 100 _60 000000000000 Spin Retry Count
0C _99 _99 __0 0000000009B2 Power Cycle Count
B7 100 100 __0 000000000000 Vendor Specific
B8 100 100 _97 000000000000 End-to-End Error
BB 100 __1 __0 2AF800891A40 Reported Uncorrectable Errors
BC 100 _99 __0 014003740010 Command Timeout
BE _65 _53 _45 000023250023 Airflow Temperature
BF _95 _95 __0 000000000509 G-Sense Error Rate
C0 _95 _95 __0 000003EB03EB Power-off Retract Count
C1 _85 _85 __0 000000026447 Load/Unload Cycle Count
C4 _40 _40 __0 000000000606 Reallocation Event Count
C5 __1 __1 __0 000000000C48 Current PENDING Sector Count
C6 100 100 __0 000000000000 Uncorrectable Sector Count
C7 100 100 __0 000000000000 UltraDMA CRC Error Count
DF 100 100 __0 000000000000 Load/Unload Retry Count
 
-- IDENTIFY_DEVICE ---------------------------------------------------------
        0    1    2    3    4    5    6    7    8    9
000: 0040 3FFF C837 0010 0000 0000 003F 0000 0000 0000
010: 2020 2020 2020 4A42 3130 3030 3133 314B 3835 5952
020: 0003 4000 0004 4A41 304F 4135 3930 4847 5354 2048
030: 5453 3534 3130 3130 4139 4536 3830 2020 2020 2020
040: 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 8010 4000 2F00
050: 4000 0200 0200 0007 3FFF 0010 003F FC10 00FB 0110
060: FFFF 0FFF 0000 0007 0003 0078 0078 0078 0078 0008
070: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 001F 8D06 0004 004C 004C
080: 03FC 0028 706B 7C09 6123 7069 BC09 6123 407F 0075
090: 0076 4080 FFFE 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
100: 6DB0 7470 0000 0000 0000 0000 6003 826C 5000 CCA7
110: 66D5 F090 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 401C
120: 401C 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0029 000B
130: 3030 0000 2182 1CF1 3A00 0000 4000 0400 0009 0000
140: 0000 0603 0405 0603 0603 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
150: 0000 0003 3048 4235 0000 2804 0000 5DBD 2388 8000
160: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0003 0000
170: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
180: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
190: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
200: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 003D 0000 0000 4000
210: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 1518 0000 0000
220: 0000 0000 103F 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
230: 6DB0 7470 0000 0000 0001 0080 0000 0000 0000 0000
240: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
250: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 E6A5
 
-- SMART_READ_DATA ---------------------------------------------------------
     +0 +1 +2 +3 +4 +5 +6 +7 +8 +9 +A +B +C +D +E +F
000: 10 00 01 2F 00 64 2F 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 25
010: 00 64 64 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 03 23 00 BF 64 01
020: 00 00 00 0C 00 00 04 32 00 63 63 E0 09 00 00 00
030: 00 00 05 33 00 26 26 30 30 7F 05 00 00 00 07 2F
040: 00 64 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 08 25 00 64 64 00
050: 00 00 00 00 00 00 09 32 00 55 55 C1 19 00 00 00
060: 00 00 0A 33 00 64 64 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0C 32
070: 00 63 63 B2 09 00 00 00 00 00 B7 32 00 64 64 00
080: 00 00 00 00 00 00 B8 33 00 64 64 00 00 00 00 00
090: 00 00 BB 32 00 64 01 40 1A 89 00 F8 2A 00 BC 32
0A0: 00 64 63 10 00 74 03 40 01 00 BE 22 00 41 35 23
0B0: 00 25 23 00 00 00 BF 32 00 5F 5F 09 05 00 00 00
0C0: 00 00 C0 32 00 5F 5F EB 03 EB 03 00 00 00 C1 32
0D0: 00 55 55 47 64 02 00 00 00 00 C4 32 00 28 28 06
0E0: 06 00 00 00 00 00 C5 32 00 01 01 48 0C 00 00 00
0F0: 00 00 C6 30 00 64 64 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 C7 36
100: 00 64 64 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 DF 2A 00 64 64 00
110: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
120: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
130: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
140: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
150: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
160: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 79 2D 00 01 51
170: 03 00 01 02 02 EC 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
180: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
190: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1A0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1B0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1C0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1D0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1E0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1F0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F4
 
-- SMART_READ_THRESHOLD ----------------------------------------------------
     +0 +1 +2 +3 +4 +5 +6 +7 +8 +9 +A +B +C +D +E +F
000: 10 00 01 3E 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 28
010: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 03 21 00 00 00 00
020: 00 00 00 00 00 00 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
030: 00 00 05 05 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 07 43
040: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 08 28 00 00 00 00
050: 00 00 00 00 00 00 09 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
060: 00 00 0A 3C 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0C 00
070: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 B7 00 00 00 00 00
080: 00 00 00 00 00 00 B8 61 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
090: 00 00 BB 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 BC 00
0A0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 BE 2D 00 00 00 00
0B0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 BF 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
0C0: 00 00 C0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 C1 00
0D0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 C4 00 00 00 00 00
0E0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 C5 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
0F0: 00 00 C6 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 C7 00
100: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 DF 00 00 00 00 00
110: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
120: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
130: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
140: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
150: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
160: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
170: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
180: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
190: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1A0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1B0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1C0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1D0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1E0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1F0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 19
 
  QUOTE

0000057F3030 Reallocated Sectors Count

Thats A LOT of damage to be 57F3030 ( = 92,221,488 Bad Sectors )

Hi, i've been experiencing hard drive clicking issues what lead to BSOD crash, doesn't matter what i do; gaming, surfing, programming, still same issue, before crash it seems the screen is freezed, and seconds later i encounter BSOD.
I will provide the hard drive check log, so anybody might can help me?
Code: [Select]----------------------------------------------------------------------------
CrystalDiskInfo 7.0.3 (C) 2008-2016 hiyohiyo
                                Crystal Dew World : http://crystalmark.info/
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
    OS : Windows 10 Professional [10.0 Build 10586] (x64)
  Date : 2016/09/29 8:21:34
 
-- Controller Map ----------------------------------------------------------
 + Intel(R) 8 Series Chipset Family SATA AHCI Controller [ATA]
   - HGST HTS541010A9E680
   - hp DVD A  DU8A5SH
 - Microsoft Storage Spaces Controller [SCSI]
 
-- Disk List ---------------------------------------------------------------
 (1) HGST HTS541010A9E680 : 1000,2 GB [0/0/0, pd1]
 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
 (1) HGST HTS541010A9E680
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
           Model : HGST HTS541010A9E680
        Firmware : JA0OA590
   Serial Number : JB1000131K85YR
       Disk Size : 1000,2 GB (8,4/137,4/1000,2/1000,2)
     Buffer Size : 8192 KB
     Queue Depth : 32
    # of Sectors : 1953525168
   Rotation Rate : 5400 RPM
       Interface : Serial ATA
   Major Version : ACS-2
   Minor Version : ATA8-ACS version 6
   Transfer Mode : SATA/300 | SATA/300
  Power On Hours : 6593 hours
  Power On Count : 2482 count
     Temperature : 35 C (95 F)
   Health Status : Caution
        Features : S.M.A.R.T., APM, 48bit LBA, NCQ
       APM Level : 4080h [ON]
       AAM Level : ----
    Drive Letter : C:
 
-- S.M.A.R.T. --------------------------------------------------------------
ID Cur Wor Thr RawValues(6) Attribute Name
01 100 _47 _62 000000000000 Read Error Rate
02 100 100 _40 000000000000 Throughput Performance
03 191 100 _33 000C00000001 Spin-Up Time
04 _99 _99 __0 0000000009E0 Start/Stop Count
05 _38 _38 __5 0000057F3030 Reallocated Sectors Count
07 100 _42 _67 000000000000 Seek Error Rate
08 100 100 _40 000000000000 Seek Time Performance
09 _85 _85 __0 0000000019C1 Power-On Hours
0A 100 100 _60 000000000000 Spin Retry Count
0C _99 _99 __0 0000000009B2 Power Cycle Count
B7 100 100 __0 000000000000 Vendor Specific
B8 100 100 _97 000000000000 End-to-End Error
BB 100 __1 __0 2AF800891A40 Reported Uncorrectable Errors
BC 100 _99 __0 014003740010 Command Timeout
BE _65 _53 _45 000023250023 Airflow Temperature
BF _95 _95 __0 000000000509 G-Sense Error Rate
C0 _95 _95 __0 000003EB03EB Power-off Retract Count
C1 _85 _85 __0 000000026447 Load/Unload Cycle Count
C4 _40 _40 __0 000000000606 Reallocation Event Count
C5 __1 __1 __0 000000000C48 Current Pending Sector Count
C6 100 100 __0 000000000000 Uncorrectable Sector Count
C7 100 100 __0 000000000000 UltraDMA CRC Error Count
DF 100 100 __0 000000000000 Load/Unload Retry Count
 
-- IDENTIFY_DEVICE ---------------------------------------------------------
        0    1    2    3    4    5    6    7    8    9
000: 0040 3FFF C837 0010 0000 0000 003F 0000 0000 0000
010: 2020 2020 2020 4A42 3130 3030 3133 314B 3835 5952
020: 0003 4000 0004 4A41 304F 4135 3930 4847 5354 2048
030: 5453 3534 3130 3130 4139 4536 3830 2020 2020 2020
040: 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 2020 8010 4000 2F00
050: 4000 0200 0200 0007 3FFF 0010 003F FC10 00FB 0110
060: FFFF 0FFF 0000 0007 0003 0078 0078 0078 0078 0008
070: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 001F 8D06 0004 004C 004C
080: 03FC 0028 706B 7C09 6123 7069 BC09 6123 407F 0075
090: 0076 4080 FFFE 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
100: 6DB0 7470 0000 0000 0000 0000 6003 826C 5000 CCA7
110: 66D5 F090 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 401C
120: 401C 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0029 000B
130: 3030 0000 2182 1CF1 3A00 0000 4000 0400 0009 0000
140: 0000 0603 0405 0603 0603 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
150: 0000 0003 3048 4235 0000 2804 0000 5DBD 2388 8000
160: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0003 0000
170: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
180: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
190: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
200: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 003D 0000 0000 4000
210: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 1518 0000 0000
220: 0000 0000 103F 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
230: 6DB0 7470 0000 0000 0001 0080 0000 0000 0000 0000
240: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000
250: 0000 0000 0000 0000 0000 E6A5
 
-- SMART_READ_DATA ---------------------------------------------------------
     +0 +1 +2 +3 +4 +5 +6 +7 +8 +9 +A +B +C +D +E +F
000: 10 00 01 2F 00 64 2F 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 25
010: 00 64 64 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 03 23 00 BF 64 01
020: 00 00 00 0C 00 00 04 32 00 63 63 E0 09 00 00 00
030: 00 00 05 33 00 26 26 30 30 7F 05 00 00 00 07 2F
040: 00 64 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 08 25 00 64 64 00
050: 00 00 00 00 00 00 09 32 00 55 55 C1 19 00 00 00
060: 00 00 0A 33 00 64 64 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0C 32
070: 00 63 63 B2 09 00 00 00 00 00 B7 32 00 64 64 00
080: 00 00 00 00 00 00 B8 33 00 64 64 00 00 00 00 00
090: 00 00 BB 32 00 64 01 40 1A 89 00 F8 2A 00 BC 32
0A0: 00 64 63 10 00 74 03 40 01 00 BE 22 00 41 35 23
0B0: 00 25 23 00 00 00 BF 32 00 5F 5F 09 05 00 00 00
0C0: 00 00 C0 32 00 5F 5F EB 03 EB 03 00 00 00 C1 32
0D0: 00 55 55 47 64 02 00 00 00 00 C4 32 00 28 28 06
0E0: 06 00 00 00 00 00 C5 32 00 01 01 48 0C 00 00 00
0F0: 00 00 C6 30 00 64 64 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 C7 36
100: 00 64 64 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 DF 2A 00 64 64 00
110: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
120: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
130: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
140: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
150: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
160: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 79 2D 00 01 51
170: 03 00 01 02 02 EC 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
180: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
190: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1A0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1B0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1C0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1D0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1E0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1F0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 F4
 
-- SMART_READ_THRESHOLD ----------------------------------------------------
     +0 +1 +2 +3 +4 +5 +6 +7 +8 +9 +A +B +C +D +E +F
000: 10 00 01 3E 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 02 28
010: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 03 21 00 00 00 00
020: 00 00 00 00 00 00 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
030: 00 00 05 05 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 07 43
040: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 08 28 00 00 00 00
050: 00 00 00 00 00 00 09 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
060: 00 00 0A 3C 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0C 00
070: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 B7 00 00 00 00 00
080: 00 00 00 00 00 00 B8 61 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
090: 00 00 BB 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 BC 00
0A0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 BE 2D 00 00 00 00
0B0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 BF 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
0C0: 00 00 C0 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 C1 00
0D0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 C4 00 00 00 00 00
0E0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 C5 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
0F0: 00 00 C6 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 C7 00
100: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 DF 00 00 00 00 00
110: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
120: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
130: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
140: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
150: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
160: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
170: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
180: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
190: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1A0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1B0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1C0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1D0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1E0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
1F0: 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 19
 
 

I apologize for the thread title, couldn't really think of a more descriptive one.

Anyway, so I've recently encountered a problem. This started randomly and has since been a consistent problem that I can't seem to find a fix for. I did not change any HARDWARE and I don't RECALL updating anything prior to this issue beginning.

I've begun to notice a GRAPHICAL issue when videos/gifs play. I notice this thus far on every site I go to, but not every video and every gif. Some gifs will work fine, but most videos and gifs have this issue. After a few seconds, this issue will usually sort itself out and the rest of the media will be completely fine, it's only at the start. Additionally, I have noticed that if I leave a PIECE of media on a tab and do something else (like perhaps play a game for a bit) and come back to it, the entire media will just be green and have corrupted. The only way to fix will be to refresh the PAGE and find my position in the video once more. To try to be more descriptive, here's some images.





I'm running on a GTX 970 4gb. The rest of my PC has seemed fine as of lately, this problem just started a few days ago and I can't seem to figure out why.

For the last several days, I have been wanting to nuy stuff from iTunes.

   Instead, I get this message:

   "iTunes has STOPPED working. A problem has caused the program to stop working correctly. Windows will close the program and notify you if a solution is available."

   I emailed Apple about it, but that wasn't the answer.  I uninstalled - and reinstalled - the latest version, and it's the same old, same old.

   I am using A Win10 Gateway SX2185.

   Does anyone have  a solution for a Win10 PC?

   BrianThis is not a direct answer. You can try alternatives to iTunes. Many work very well.
http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/alternatives-itunes-5-best-free-music-players-mac-os-x/
It SEEMS that Apple is not  doing all they can to maintain the cross PLATFORM users of their once great product. It is unlikely they will make efforts to support Windows 10. However, you can judge for your self.
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201668
Quote

If you can’t install iTunes on your Windows PC, or if you see “error 2” or "Apple Application Support was not found" after you install the software, follow the steps below ...

   I uninstalled iTunes and Quick Time, then reinstalled it and it won't work.
 
   I'm getting frustrated over this.

Need help with enclosing a text typed in Word 2016 in a textbox for easy shifting of the said text instead of shifting it line by line.
I open INSERT in the page carrying my text, then CLICK on TEXT BOX and choose one of the pre-formatted boxes,
e.g. the SIMPLE BOX.
I am then told to drag the box to the document, but how?
If I drag the box, the typed text vanishes.
Am I missing a step somewhere?

Many thanks in advance to anybody who can assist me.

JoeTry a visual tutorial. Use You Tube.
Google:
you tube office text box
and find videos like these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JzVz8K3Fs6M
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AuJTYuWLC1Y
Does that help?  Why the box > >===??
Drag the mouse highlight over the text and copy/paste...Thks, have now managed to enclose my text in a textbook, but from what I gather the box has to be created before the text is typed out, otherwise the text will vanish.  Is there another way, I mean, if I type the text first and then decide to put it in a textbox, how is this done?
I would want to enclose the typed text in the box to be ABLE to shift it as a whole, not line by line.

Renewed thanks.

Joe
Use my method above to copy/paste the text if it's typed before the box is created...

Highlight text with mouse...CTRL C
Then create box...clik mouse cursor int box...
CTRL V pastes copied text into the box...Have been trying your method over and over again, but unfortunately without much success:  the first line of my text shifts (in other words, it is copied) where I PLACE the cursor, but the rest of the text copies itself away from this line.  This is baffling. What am I doing wrong?
When I used a textbox in Windows 8.1, I could easily shift the whole text (not line by line) and could place the text- box  wherever I wanted.

Thanks again for your patience.

JoeTry pasting to Notepad and then doing another copy & paste, from Notepad to Word.  Did that turn out any different?  First of all, my renewed thanks, but unfortunately my problem remains unsolved.

Going to WORDPAD and then to WORD, as you suggest, does reproduce the full original text,

BUT.....when I try to shift the text to another section of the page, this solution doesn't work.  I only get the first line of my text shifted to my preferred position, but the rest of  the text is reproduced  in the original position, which I do not want, of course.

Perhaps this is a Microsoft mystery?? or a Windows 10 peculiarity?

Kind regards.

Joe Quote from: Guzeppi on October 21, 2016, 01:42:08 PM

I am then told to drag the box to the document, but how?

• Make sure no text is selected
• On the Insert Tab, choose "Text Box" and the style you want.
     The textbox is added to the  document, and no existing text is deleted.
• Select the text you want to move into the textbox, and use Cut.
• Click within the textbox you created, and paste the text you cut.

I've "googled" this, error # and message alike. I'm really confuse at what to do...

So got new ssd instead of HDD. I download Windows 10 Education off Microsoft Imagine website: [Concordia University - ECS - Microsoft Imagine Premium][2] which I use the .iso to flash my USB using rufus

And I got the following error if I do automatic install :

> The computer started using the windows installation media. Remove the
> installation media and restart your computer so that Windows starts
> normally. Then, INSERT the installation media and restart the upgrade.
>
>
> [Do not select | Custom [advanced]| to perform an upgrade.

Now if I did custom install I get the following error: 0x80070570

 So, seeing the first error message, I thought that the computer was trying to UPGRADE my "current" VERSION of windows which would obviously fail seeing that I have a blank SSD SO , I found this: [Download Windows 10][3] which gives you the choice of either upgrading the PC or flashing a USB to use on a different PC.

So  I flashed my USB ( AGAIN) and went on to try to install my computer.

Automatic install: same error as the first one

Custom: 0x800750D or something LIKE that ( I'm at work and can't recall the error but it wasn't the same).

I tried installing W8 Premium and got the SAME error
Same error trying to install W7

THEN I tried Ubuntu but .... I got to the kernel cause something was up but I'm a total beginner when it comes to linux.

Hi! I use a dual-boot between Windows 10 and Windows Vista SP2. But, out of NOWHERE, this new screen, after the normal boot screen, appears. At first, I thought it was Windows Update, which was not... This new screen can be seen in the image attached. It just never ends, the Hard Disk shows a wierd activity, and after a while, it shows no activity. What's this?? How to fix this?

[attachment deleted by admin to conserve space]If you force a hard restart, can you get to the dual boot menu?
Do you have another PC?
If so, prepare a Windows 10 install media and try a repair.
Quote

Repair Installing Windows 10
    Begin the repair installation process by inserting the Windows 10 DVD or USB into your PC. ...
    When prompted, run “setup.exe” from your removable drive to begin setup; if you're not prompted, manually browse to your DVD or USB drive and double-click on setup.exe to start.

What new versions does the .iso have? Are they worth burning another disk?

You should do a Repair install which saves your data...and is good practice...
If no joy-joy a clean install then.

A few months ago I upgraded WIN 7 to WIN 10 every thing was alright until yesterday I ran an update since then I'm unable to access file explorer.
When I click on file explorer the screen flashes on and off for a while then the flashing stops but doesn't open file explorer.
the computer system
ASUS
pro intel(r)core (tm) i5-2430cpu 2.40ghz
ram4.00gb
64bit OSx64based processor
any help would be appreciated  thanks in advance jhaddWhat happens if you go to START - RUN and type in: explorer.exe (and then click on OK)?I did this it worked fine opened and shut it several times fine then I shut the computer down restarted the computer and I was back to the same problem.
I tried run explorer.exe again but it wouldn't open this time
Thanks for your help jhaddWhat protection apps you have and when's the last time you ran scans " ? ?Agreed - please run full scans with both your installed ANTI Virus App and with MalwareBytesIf you have a Restore Point created, run that.

If not, It appears to need a clean re-installation. If you have Win 10 installation media you are good to go.Sorry about the delay in answering been having trouble getting on line.
At present I am RUNNING a full scan USING WINDOWS defender I think this will take a while.
I installed WIN 10  over Win7 how can I do a clean instal will I have to buy WIN10 media or is there any other way.
Thanks again jhaddIf Win 10 was installed and REGISTERED within the Free time period you don't have to buy it...
Simply DLoad the Win 10 ISO...and do a clean install...

You are already registered at MS for Win 10 if the above applies...

I have just started using Windows 10, so a newbie at this.
I am trying to install Family Tree Maker 2009 from a CD. It RAN fine on Windows 7 and on Vista but on Windows 10 it installs about one third then come up with a box saying,

"Family Tree Maker 2009 Error
X DATA error (Cyclic redundancy check)
OK"

Which means nothing to me.

Right clicking on EXE file did not bring up properties.
On clicking "OK" a box comes up saying:

"Feature transfer error
Error - 1603 Fatal error during installation.
Consult Windows installer help (Msi.chm) or MSDN for more information."

I tried downloading the Microsoft tool supposed to fix this. It did not. Any helpful suggestions please? Have I had a senior moment and missed something?  Too old for Win 10....2012 and up runs on Win 10Thanks Patio. Sounds LIKE me, too old.  I'd CONTACT them about an upgrade liscense and then decide...I don't think it is related to the OS being used. Google results show users having the same issue with the latest release on various Windows versions, including Windows 10. It seems like very poorly written software.

It might work if you right-click the shortcut/program and run it as administrator.Thanks for the suggestion.
FTM 2014 on its way to me, so hopefully that loads.To see a list of the minimum SYSTEM requirements your computer needs in order to run the program, please refer to the link below.
http://familytreemaker.com/Products#
Hope this helps in resolving the issue.

Very frequently my mouse cursor is disappearing. Sometimes the cursor is there but won't move.   I have to reboot the computer to get it back. My computer is a desktop that was built by a friend of mine  3 years ago. It was a gaming computer. I had Windows 7 on it but upgraded to W10 earlier in the year. About  2 weeks ago there were some updates done automatically. The disappearing cursor started Sunday. I searched for this PROBLEM but the only thing I found were some programs to download to fix the problem. The mouse is USB hard wired.So when pointer disappears how do you navigate, does it come back when you move the mouse?

Have you tried installing a different mouse to see if its a mouse issue?

Have you scanned for virus's and come up clean?

Does anyone else have access to this system that may be trying to annoy you with a program running on this computer that hides the pointer to a far corner of screen and you lose mouse controls?  (There use to be a very annoying program to install to a friends computer CALLED Drunk Mouse which made mouse controls offset and laggy, and so thats why I am asking if anyone planted anything on your system to play with you and frustrate you. These sort of programs exist to annoy. )
Aliases of Drunk.Mouse (AKA):
[Kaspersky]   not-virus:Joke.Win32.MovingMouse
http://www.exterminate-it.com/malpedia/remove-drunk-mouseI replaced the mouse. Last night the cursor was on the screen but it wouldn't move. Also the keyboard will not work. I tried HITTING the windows key to get the start menu up but it doesn't work. I have to turn the computer off and back on to get it to work. I ran a virus scan with nothing showing up. My wife is the only one with access to this computer. She surfs the net and does puzzles. I ran a malware scan but when it finishes I can't do anything because the computer is locked up. I would suggest you to restart the computer in clean boot mode and check if it helps. Also not quite sure, but have you checked that whether Mouse Driver in Windows 10 is compatible with your system? The mouse has been working for at least 6 months on W10. What is clean boot mode?It's not clean boot mode, it's safe mood.  See https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/12376/windows-10-start-your-pc-in-safe-modeThanks I will try safe mode tonight. I was looking this morning on how to get into safe mode in W10The computer works in safe mode. I assume it would be a process of ELIMINATION to find out what is causing my problem. My question is where do I start?Did u try using a different mouse? Or did u try reinstalling driver? Press window button then restart and hold shift key at exact same time to get into safe mode.After having it safe mode it would take longer but it would do the same. I noticed in either mode the computer was locking up. I would have to reboot to get it to do anything. I did use a different mouse, updated the driver and went into safe mode. It still does the same thing.

I am having trouble with my hard drives. I replaced one hard DRIVE and still had issues. But  was able to transfer Windows 10 to the replacement drive.

Now here is the problem. I am running out of spare drives, I think. Rather than buy a new drive, I thought I would just take a drive from ANOTHER PC. That PC has a good in stall of Windows 10 and a 500 GB drive.

But before I wipe out the 500 GB drive, I WANTED to save the Windows 10 installation of the PC ONTO a spare 80 GB drive. Well, I have been working for hours trying to do that and somehow I forgot how to do it right.

Is there a CLEAR,step-by-step guide about how to move Windows 10 from one drive to another?  Ans not loose activation? I did something wrong.