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I have had this problem for about the last two years, off and on.  There is some sort of program working in the background of my computer and even THOUGH I have reformatted my hard drive, it still surfaces from time to time.
This is my problem:  Sometimes my scrolling bars go up and down without me doing anything.  If my MOUSE was last over a particular window, which has a scroll bar, it will go up and down on its own.  When I roll my cursor, using my mouse, over another window which has a scroll bar, it does the same thing and the previous window will stop moving.  It is only when I have my cursor over an active window with a scroll bar, that this occurs.  When I remove my mouse from the computer (USB) and start using my keypad/pointer, I do not a problem.   One weird thing is that I eventually get irate over this activity and start seeking assistance, LIKE right now.  Once I do that it stops; or so it seems.  This will happen again in the future, at a time that is not good, which is always.
I am careful about not opening spam mail and other emails that could be dangerous, but something has a hold on my computer and it sucks.
So, it is only when I use the mouse, only in an active window with a scroll bar, and it comes and goes for about two or three days and then leaves me alone.
Did you try another mouse, PS/2, possibly?No I did not try another mouse.  I had considered doing so, but my computer is back to normal again...I will do that next time.  I posted this because I though this was something that others may have experienced before.  I did remove TEMPORARY files from my computer and rebooted to see if that would make a change.  It actually did make a slight change and maybe that is why it is back to normal.  It is really an anomaly to me.  My mouse is a Microsoft, Wireless Intellimouse, Explorer 2.0.Good job
Thanks for posting back.This is funny. From time to time I was experiancing something simular. For no apparent reason my mouse would center on the MONITOR. After a while this became an annoying occurance. I changed the batteries, changed the receiver position and it got worse. After a week or two I gave up on the problem and decided I have to live with it. A few days later I was relaxing watching TV. My pc is about 5 feet away from the TV. I changed the channel using the remote control and noticed the mouse cursor centered. Tested it about 15 times. Bingo. Problem found. Problem solved.

Hi guys,

Can ANYONE help with with this question???
Which TYPE of keyboard does not change the Num STATUS LED even when you toggle the key???
Wireless Keyboard
Multimedia Keyboard
Keyboard on a laptop
Keyboard on a tabletpc

thanksSounds like homework......which makes no sense...

A keyboard that, if you press the Num Lock key, the LED will not change?A Piano.I would guess......tabletpc

This evening my sister in law called me with a computer problem.
She lives in Washington state and I livein South Dakota, so I can't run over there quickly.

For her desktop PC (sorry, no make/model numbers), she had bought a linksys WMP54G wireless card.
She said she put it in the PCI slot PRETTY carefully, but when she tried to turn on the machine, the only thing that happened was the CPU and PSU fans spinnig.

No beeb, and the monitor stayed BLANK. It seems it doesn't boot up.

My fear, a fried motherboard, but I would like to know what you guys think?
If someone called you with this problem, what would you have him/her do?

Any help will be appreciated



1.  Power cords.  Make sure the power cords to the back of the monitor and the computer tower are INSERTED all the way (didn't work loose).

2.  I'd have her remove the PCI card and reboot.  If the computer boots successfully to Windows, I'd SAY the card or its installation caused the problem.

3.  If computer boots successfully without the card, I'd try to re-install it.  I     guess the problem could have been:
    o  Resource  conflict.  Try a different PCI slot.  It may assign different IRQ.
    o  Card not properly seated.  Ensure the PCI card is fully seated and even throughout the length of the PCI slot.  The amount of gold pins visible above the slot should be small (maybe an EIGHTH of an inch) and even the length of the slot.  You put even pressure (two thumbs) across the entire top of the board as you insert it.  It takes some force.  Don't break motherboard, but you may hear a "thunk" as the card pops in.
    o  Dead card
    o  Power short within card or in its installation (not sure about this)
    o  Make sure "Set" screw when tightened doesn't tilt the board in its slot.

4.  There are people who've had problems with this card, although not necessarily the same as hers.
    WMP54G Wireless-G PCI Adapter
    MAJOR WMP54G problems.

5.  Startup Symptoms. 
     a.  Absolutely nothing displays on monitor during system startup?
     b.  Any lights at all during startup (steady or flashing):  monitor power LED state (on/off, steady/blinking, green/amber, power LED on tower, keyboard, floppy, CD-ROM, Hard Drive LEDs?

I would like to prevent my laptop being powered up unless a certain usb flash DRIVE is connected - a power-on dongle. This sounds to me to be a simple security measure but i cant SEE any such thing advertised for sale.Because there isn't such a thing. The only way to prevent a COMPUTER from powering up is to physically disconnect the power (either at the power supply or at the motherboard).

There are methods to prevent people from getting access once the thing is turned on, however. BIOS passwords, disabling guest accounts and passwording your own, fingerprint scanners, etc.

Or something like this company offers for $129:
http://www.securikey.com/Thanks for that. I followed the link to the usb key, the ad says they've PERFECTED a mac 'usb key' and are working on a vista version. I'll save the link and keep checking. Cheers!!

I am having problems making the right adjustments to make my printer print in a larger size.  The print is so small I need a magnifying glass to view the printed material.   I have tried everything that I thought would adjust the print, but I must be missing something.  I have a Lexmark, All in one, #8350.  I did not have this problem before until recently.  Thank you al for whatever assistance you may have on this situationWhat is it that you are tring to print?Make sure, correct PAPER size is selected.are you running windows vista??? what kind of printer?I am using Vista and the printer is a Lexmark - One in All.what is it that your attempting to print??? Quote from: Evitta on May 11, 2008, 11:00:37 AM

I did not have this problem before until recently...

Hello, Is it possible to COPY VHS tapes to DVD using a STAND ALONE TV tuner box?  We have a DVD PLAYER but it does not record.  Thank you for any help.   Monica

Hello, I'm not sure if this is a hardware problem or not, but since it involved my D:\ drive I figured it's the best place to start.

I have a Toshiba Satellite A105, bought in July 2006. I have Windows XP, Norton Anti-virus, Ad-Aware, I only have a few added programs, as this computer was mostly used for homework when I was in college, and those are pretty much messengers and a few games.

I have had some problems with this computer in the past where it would overheat, and EVENTUALLY just stopped booting up. That cleared up on its own (with some help from one of my dogs knocking it over) and until last week things have been fine.

Last week my computer stopped recognizing my DVD/CD drive. It doesn't show up in My Computer, or when I search for it. The strange thing though is that when I use my Express MEDIA Player (allows me to play movies or music without booting up) the DVDs play normally.

It was working fine for the first three disks of House: Season 2, but it started having problems when I inserted The Last Samurai, and now it doesn't work for the House DVDs either. (Don't know if that's relevant, but I figure I'll mention it just in case.

When I INSERT a DVD, the drive makes noise and the light flashes, but then the light goes off and nothing happens

Any ideas??

Thanks,
Talyn

Maybe you should have your dog knock it over again...

On a more serious note, perhaps you should check to make sure the drive is still physically connected in all the right places along the line (or, if you're uncomfortable with cracking open your machine, have someone who is familiar with the inside of a computer do so).  Perhaps your dog loosened some plug that finally slipped off enough to be inconvenient.

Good luck, I hope the fix is that easy.

Oh, are your CDS and DVDs clean?Try it in another computer.

I have a problem that I've not had before.  My desktop monitor shows the screen that it would show if I had pressed the monitor button that controls the brightness, WIDTH, height, etc. of the screen.  The desktop computer will not respond to ANYTHING, including keyboard, mouse, ctrl-alt-delete, etc.  I TURNED the computer off and re-started it, and still no change.  I turned off the power strip, waited a few minutes, turned everything back on, and still no change.  The only thing working is my internet connection, and I know this because I can use the laptops in the house with the WIRELESS card.  At this point, I can't use the desktop computer or the printer. 

Any ideas?do you have any start up disks for your pc??? try those. If not try to find some for your floppy. if you dont have a floppy. well then I am at a loss.Looked for the disks, so far no luck.  It's an eMachines computer, running Windows XP, with sp2.  All I really want to do is a system restore to a point a week or so ago, but can't even get the computer to respond.  Thankfully, the internet and router are still working.Just so we get a better understanding, when you turn the computer on what does the monitor show when it freezes?I wish I could give you a screenshot.  It's a blue screen, with the BOX in the middle which "usually" allows you to adjust monitor settings (using the buttons on the front of the monitor), such as brightness, width, height, gauss, etc.  None of the buttons on the front of the monitor are functioning, and even on COLD boot, this screen comes up.  The mouse, ctrl-alt-delete, function keys, etc. are all non-functioning.  Last night, I thought maybe they only SEEM to be nonfunctioning since I cant get the monitor to show anything but what I described above.  I'm usually pretty good at figuring the "techie" stuff out, but not this time, I'm afraid.  If possible you should try and connect another monitor to your computer. Could be your monitor has gone bad, video card gone bad, possibly needs updating of the driver. Best bet is to get another monitor on there to test it.Is there any way to test the monitor using my laptop?  I don't have any other monitor.Try and use someone else's monitor and plug it into a port on your laptop that should look like this:


I suggest plugging it in first before turning on the computer. Could also be the button on the monitor that turns on the "settings" feature is stuck in the closed position.  That would make it stay on constantly.

Alan <><

Hi,
     My parents' computer has just stopped booting up completely all of a sudden. When you hit the start up button, the heat sink fan spins for a second or two then stops and the computer doesn't boot at all. No display; nothing. I took the fan off the heat sink and noticed a lot of dust on it, I cleaned it all out as well as the rest of the computer and tried again. Nothing =\ It's obviously getting power I assume because it does something when you hit the power button.
     I was looking around for quite some time on the internet to see similar problems but nothing really seems to work or I can't try what is recommended. I did pull out the 3V battery and hit the power button with that out, but same thing of course happened. I don't really know how to get the heat sink itself off so I didn't try that out. That's really all I accomplished as most of the time I was trying to find what I can do here.
     Thanks How old is this machine? What brand is it? What operating system does it use?
If you cant see anything at all: rule out the MONITOR by swaping it out for a known good one. If you dont have another monitor, try the one in question on a computer that you know works.
The 3V battery on the mobo supplies power to the CMOS RAM which stores configuration data. You NEED a good working battery to ensure a stable system.
Take the old battery out and take it to your local computer store, or pharmacy,or superstore and check out the coin cell batteries.  Match the numbers on the battery and make sure that it is the right size. After you install the new one you will have to go into setup and set the date and time.
I'm no expert, so I dont know if any of this will workIt's about six years old now, an HP. It uses Windows XP Home, but I don't see how that pertains here seeing as it wont boot at all, I will replace the battery and see if that does help. I'll edit with a monitor check soon.Is the heat sink seated well on its place?Well, I have read that the heatsink should be checked for that but I can't tell if its seated correctly. It doesn't come off or I don't know how to take it off. It did have a lot of dust in it though when I took the fan off the top and I cleaned all that out. Nothing still, but could you POINT me in the right direction as to how to take it off (safely if possible)? There are two little latch type things on two sides and I've tried to pull them up to release it but it gets stuck at a certain point and just stops moving. I don't want to apply a lot of pressure because I know this stuff can be all SENSITIVE and everything. Even when the little clips/latches are pulled up as far as I think they can go it still doesn't even budge. So...I dunno. haha  Well, I think we need additional info here.. Specs of the computer please....  Well its kinda hard to figure the specs out when I can't boot up the computer. I don't know where to find the model number or anything off the motherboard. I already just took the motherboard out and can't really tell which location the model number would be.

I have 2 ram slots one with a 1 gig and the other with a 256mB..hmm
All I can tell from the motherboard is that its made by Intel =\

Re-edit: Okay just found it...mah bad haha.
http://www.intel.com/design/motherbd/rg/Try it without the 256 RAM chip...is the 1G chip the proper RAM ? ?I have just already tried it with no ram and it didn't work still. I managed to get the heatsink off and i put it back on and now it doesn't want to turn on at all. Motherboard still gets little led lit up but it is still not turning on. By the way, in the past few hours I completely stripped the motherboard and just tried the two power WIRES and that didn't make it spin either. Nothing's working it seems.My best guess would be the power supply. Do you have access to one you could try? Make sure you clean the heat sink and apply new thermal paste before trying. Quote from: hejlik on May 13, 2008, 02:04:00 AM

My best guess would be the power supply. Do you have access to one you could try? Make sure you clean the heat sink and apply new thermal paste before trying.

DiDisplay Devices
---------------
        Card name: RADEON X800 GTO           
     Manufacturer: ATI Technologies Inc.
        Chip type: ATI Radeon Graphics Processor AGP (0x554F)
         DAC type: Internal DAC(400MHz)
       Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_554F&SUBSYS_1600174B&REV_00
   Display Memory: 256.0 MB
     Current Mode: 1600 x 1200 (32 bit) (60Hz)
          Monitor: Default Monitor
  Monitor Max Res:
      Driver Name: ati2dvag.dll
   Driver Version: 6.14.0010.6715 (English)
      DDI Version: 9 (or higher)
Driver Attributes: Final Retail
 Driver Date/Size: 7/28/2007 04:30:45, 269312 bytes
      WHQL Logo'd: Yes
  WHQL Date Stamp: n/a
              VDD: n/a
         Mini VDD: ati2mtag.sys
    Mini VDD Date: 7/28/2007 04:30:27, 2371584 bytes
Device Identifier: {D7B71EE2-160F-11CF-C06E-0A36A1C2CB35}
        Vendor ID: 0x1002
        Device ID: 0x554F
        SubSys ID: 0x1600174B
      Revision ID: 0x0000
      Revision ID: 0x0000
      Video Accel: ModeMPEG2_C ModeMPEG2_D ModeWMV8_B ModeWMV8_A ModeWMV9_B ModeWMV9_A
 DEINTERLACE Caps: {6E8329FF-B642-418B-BCF0-BCB6591E255F}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                   {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(YUY2,YUY2) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
                   {3C5323C1-6FB7-44F5-9081-056BF2EE449D}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,2) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                   {552C0DAD-CCBC-420B-83C8-74943CF9F1A6}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,2) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                   {6E8329FF-B642-418B-BCF0-BCB6591E255F}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,1) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_PixelAdaptive
                   {335AA36E-7884-43A4-9C91-7F87FAF3E37E}: Format(In/Out)=(NV12,0x3231564e) Frames(Prev/Fwd/Back)=(0,0,0) Caps=VideoProcess_YUV2RGB VideoProcess_StretchX VideoProcess_StretchY DeinterlaceTech_BOBVerticalStretch
         Registry: OK
     DDRAW STATUS: Enabled
       D3D Status: Enabled
       AGP Status: Enabled
DDraw Test RESULT: Not run
 D3D7 Test Result: Not run
 D3D8 Test Result: Not run
 D3D9 Test Result: Not run

Did you install the original drivers you recieved with the ATI?  initially, then i updated every few months with the catalyst thing. i rolled back to that driver with system restoreThe ATI Catalyst Control Center is ACTUALLY very good.  You're best bet is to download the drivers ( or catalysts which ATI calls them ) only. If they're third party,  do yourself a favour: When you download ANYTHING, right click on it before you open and scan the file with your Antivirus!http://ati.amd.com/support/driver.html

drivers (catalyst) from there should be fine right? also how should i go about removing my current drivers before reinstalling new ones?Yes. ATI catalysts are WHQL certified. I right click and check everything I download...except the rootkit that led me to these forums and solved my problem 

Click on Start~ control panel~software. Allow windows a few moments to list your installed software.  Uninstall the CCC or recent ATI catalysts. I'm about 99% sure windows will set a restore point when you uninstall software. In which case you can do sys-restore should you run into any problems.

At any rate. Good luck & wish your Mom a happy mothers day ( in case you forget )!



 it now seems to be working on that restore point, or at least it restarted ok once, so touch wood its gone away again, as far as new drivers, i think its a case of "if it aint broke dont fix it" heheit stopped working again, now trying what you suggested regarding a new catalyst install.

this still worries me

http://homepages.which.net/%7Ea.leng/gfx.jpg

what would cause that?

Quote from: squall_01 on May 13, 2008, 05:02:05 AM

Unless you make it a dual boot, linux would change the format.

my laptop got an error bad pool caller, i TRIED to re install my operating system came from recovery cd rom such as windows xp media edition but unfortunately i got this error upon setup which is no hard disk FOUND. it is a sata hard drive. i look at BIOS setup and found out that hard disk still detect by bios. then i use windows vista and fortunately no problem occur at all but my system RUN slower cause of system requirement. how can i install my original operating system without an error will occur? help me, THANKS and god blessWhat would possess you to ditch your old OS in favor of Vista in the first place?Jetz73 - Welcome to the CH forums.

Did you install the sata driver (Press F6) when the onscreen prompt appeared?

What is the make and model of your laptop?

I would be eternally grateful to anyone who can help me with this problem.

My Dell Inspiron 9400 was never able to CHARGE its battery so i always ran it off of AC power.
THINKING it may have been my power adaptor i replaced it with a universal power adaptor.
In my frustration at it not working i increased the voltage of the universal adaptor thinking it may solve the problem (I set it to 20.5 instead of 19.5V).
It did not solve the problem but instead must have shorted it (slightly) because the computer will now not run off of AC power unless there is a charged battery in it.
So what i have to do to run it off AC power is charge my battery on a friends laptop and put it into my own.
When i CHECK the battery status it says something crazy like 9265 hours remaining.
It runs off AC power but the battery dwindles down bit by bit even THOUGH i always have it plugged in resulting in me having to remove the battery and charge it in a friends when it runs out!
My laptop at the moment is without a charged battery and i cant get hold of a dell laptop to my charge my battery off.
Im leaving the country on Friday so I need to be able to fix this.

Is there anything i can do to solve this problem possibly by doing something to some internal component? (I know a fair bit about the inside of my laptop)
Can anyone help me? It would be GREATLY APPRECIATED

I get a keyboard error message on boot up WHETHER it is plugged in or not. Once I plug in the keyboard the mouse freezes immediately and the keyboard still does not work. Then I can't do anything and have to restart. I have tried multiple keyboards, none work on this system but they all work on others.

What is going on? I'm sick of using the onscreen keyboard!What does the error say / when does the error come up / are you using a PS/2 keyboard / have you tried a USB keyboard?

Alan <><  Error comes up immediately in first booting screen whether it is plugged in or not. No I have not tried a USB keyboard. I really want to FIX the problem rather than overt it. Error says "Keyboard Error." I just think that it is extremely ODD that the mouse freezes from plugging in the keyboard.These devices are not DESIGNED to be plugged in/out while the power is on...you haven't been doing this have you   ? ?

Quote

An error was detected on device \Device\Harddisk0\D during a paging operation.

windows XP. Dimension Dell c521.   48 x cd-rw/dvd drive.
I could have kept reading and find this type of issue., but no time., so I need your help solving this one. -- I have been burning music into cd's for quite some time now., but now when I burn them everytime the playback is really bad, HISSING and skipping is the result., I am able to listen to music , sound fine. everything else is fine ,but burning results. might think the driver is gone? pls advise. try a DIFFERENT brand of CD's. or burn the CD's in another comp and see if they produce the same result. also, test your burner in another computer and see if it produces the same result as well. this will determine if the CD is to blame or if the CD drive is to blame. if the CD drive is faulty, DVD burners (which also burn CD's) can be purchased for around $30.Thank you Homer, it did work that way  .   it just confused me cause I was using those type of cd's Memorex cd-R  for like TWO weeks.,  So now the ones I just got working are Memorex cd-R but color coded. THX.

I recently replaced the Hard drive in my daughters Compaq Presario 5080us....I started with a win98se full install..upgraded to Me..and finally to xp home..no problems up to there..when I went to install SP2 for xp I got the message there was not enough space on the Hard Drive well since I installed a 20gb as was the original and that was plenty big enough I checked the drive capacity in windows explorer and sure enough it SAID 2gb actually 1.99gb and it was just about full I took the drive out and checked the label just to be sure and it says 20gb. I checked the product thru Seagate (just in case the guy I bought it from switched the label, hey you never know) and it came back as a 20gb drive..there are 4 jumper position positions and I tried them all with the same result...the drive is a Seagate u series 5 20gb..somehow I don't think the brand or model matter and its probably a software issue..but since I'm not stupid enough to pay Microsoft  $59.95 to answer questions about their own software.. and HP just has no clue..I need ideas on what else to do to GET the drive to know what the real numbers are...  Thank You

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You need to select "Large Drive Support" when you FDISK the drive, otherwise you end up with a 2GB (1.99) partitions.I did not do fdisk...just did the full install of 98se and yhen the upgrades..do I need to start from scratch..and how do I go about the fdisk part..Thank you Quote

I recently replaced the Hard drive

Before you install Windows 98 on an empty hard disk, you must first create a primary PARTITION and then format a file system on that partition. Each allocated space on the hard disk (primary partition or logical drive) is assigned a drive letter. Windows 98 supports the FAT16 and FAT32 file systems. When you run the Fdisk tool on a hard disk that is larger than 512 MB, you are prompted to choose a file system.

The FAT16 file system has a maximum of 2 gigabytes (GB) for each allocated space, or drive letter. For example, if you use the FAT16 file system and you have a 6-GB hard disk, you can have three drive letters (C, D, and E), each with 2 GB of allocated space.

The FAT32 file system supports drives up to 2 terabytes in size

so i just installed my Geforce 8600 Gt and when i TURNED my computer on the monitor was black and could not detect my computer. I had the monitor hooked up to the graphics card and the FAN was running just the monitor DIDNT pick it up. plz help HELLO!

Does your computer has an onboard video? Disable it first...
  you mite have plug an play I would reset the card first.  Then check the bios if that dont work.what monitor connection are you using?

.:.:.:.

or  - .:.:.

The scroll to my mouse is acting as the "Back" and "Forward button.
The "Back" button brings down my history list.

Any IDEA how to fix this?Never MIND, problem some how resolved itself out of nowhere.Congrats...any ideas what happened or what you did? It MIGHT help other PEOPLE who COME across this problem.

Quote from: PATIO on May 03, 2008, 08:40:24 AM

Quote from: dahlarbear on May 03, 2008, 05:44:09 AM

Sorry Patio...  I prefer Ivy's PICTURE.  Yours is a little too ones and zeros for me.

I'll USE the Crayons next time....

 

hi friends,

i have a problem while connecting the front panel audio output sockets to the corresponding pins.
first, i have intel disktop board D101GGC.

front panel audio i/o port having following connectors(sockets) corresponding to pins

mic and one more jumbled with it, a return socket likewise and is unmarked.
ground(marked as G)
two , marked L and R ,connectors and both having their own jumbled  connectors and are unmarked.

i tried making connection according to the manual given at  http://www.intel.com/support/motherb.../CS-021718.htm

is on PAGE 38 of english manual. as below
Pin            signal name                 pin         signal name
1               mic                               2            aud_gnd
3               mic_bias                        4            aud_gnd
5               fp_out_R                       6            fp_return_R
7               aud_5V                         8            key
9               fp_out_L                       10           fp_return_L

and i have conneted as below

Pin            signal name                   pin      signal name
1               mic                                 2       G(marked)

3              jumbled with mic(unmarked) 4     

5               R(marked)                        6       jumbled with R(unmarked)

7                                                     8         

9               L(marked)                         10    jumbled with L(unmarked)


with all this microphone is working fine but  i cant here the audio output.


any suggestion
regards
  san

does your computer recognise it as being connected?

if you are unsure run "DXDIAG" and look under sound adapters

or POST up an everest log.

It could be a MATTER of reinstalling drivers for your chipset.rear port are working fine for i/o, i did run 'dxdiag' but it could not diagnize the problem.

My system does not get RESTART when i press the restart button , but could be the reasion for it .

ThanksPlease Clik Here...I have 20 gb of hardisk , 256mb of ram , intel pentium3  0.8 processor , LG cd rom.What is your Operating System?

Try going to CONTROL Panel (in CLASSIC VIEW) and click on Power Options.
On the new window, click the Advanced tab and have a look at the settings.

hi, im about to buy components for a new PC BUILD and i NEED help choosing a graphics card.
i DONT play demanding games like crysis etc but i do have a couple of MEDIUM quality games which i would like to play with GOOD frame rates.

i dont want to spend more than around £80 or so on this.
i dont know much about them at all so any help would be appreciated.
thanx

My Primary hard drive's connectors are breaking. So, I NEED to copy everything to a second hard drive I have of the same size. It is external and brand new and I will be using eSata to do the copy.

What's the best method?Including the OS?yes I need a backup of Vista tooAcronis True Image is my preference...
However there are others such as Ghost, Macrium Reflect (Free) etc.
Also all hard drive manuf. supply a "cloning" tool for copying an old HDD to a brand spanking new one.
The procedure is fairly simple:
Hook up the new drive as a slave.
DLoad the new drive manuf. utilities from their website and follow the instructions for creating a bootable CD.
Boot to the CD and select the "Clone" option.
Select the source (old drive) and the target (new drive ) and let it run.
When finished power down.
Remove the old drive completely.
Hook up the new drive jumpered as master.
Power up and BOOM...you're done.
You can then format the old drive and use it for storage if you trust it with data...if not their fun to take apart.The problem with the drives is that I cannot do the master slave thing. On one drive all the plastic is cracked in that AREA and I don't have a plastic jumper anyways. I have to do it externally, so how can I partition an external drive and clone the original partitions.This will not work as any Windows OS after WinME is not built to be bootable from an external drive...
This is by design.
Also i do not understand the jumper dilemna as any PC shop will give you a handful of jumpers usually for free...
I think there is more to this story than we have heard,Reason I want to backup and replace my original Hard Drive is that I noticed that the plastic is damaged on it where you are supposed to put the jumper. I don't have any jumpers. Is there another way I could make my external drive a Slave  without a Jumper?

Can I atleast partition my external Hard drive?I guess I can't partition an external hard drive easily. Partioning any drive whether internal or external is easy...however it has nothing to do with your plastic/melted jumper issue which i still do not understand.My primary drive just bit the dust tonight. But for future reference, how do you do a master slave setup if you can't put a plastic jumper on a drive?

I tried to partition with a few free programs but they wanted to partiton my primary drive and not my external.I've NEVER had a drive i couldn't CONNECT a jumper to so i'm afraid i cannot advise in that department.
As far as the internal/external dilemna what are you using to partition ? ?

Motherboard: HT2000
processor: AMD Duocore
OS: Vista Home Premium

Last night I was logged in to "Second Life", when all of a sudden my computer screen went black. Mouse and keyboard were dead and the only thing I COULD do was a cold boot. Upon booting however the bios would not load. Initially I thought this was due to the bios itself and consequently I switched jumpers 2 and 3 to clear bios. This was to no avail.

Next I took out three (512+512+1 gig) of the memory MODULES and left one (1 gig) in place. Upon boot the computer started up again, I turned off the computer and tried adding one module at a time and booting, but the computer would not load bios. I tried various other combinations and found that 512 mb + 512 mb starts up windows. 1 gig + 512 mb would load up windows as well, plus I could start up internet browser (firefox) for a minute before it would fail. Any other combination does not yield success, and the modules are very VOLATILE in BEHAVIOUR. a combination of 1 gig + 512 mb + 512 mb rearranged loads up bios but fails while it tries to start windows.

A single 1 gig module in the first slot seems to be working fine up till now.
A single 1 gig module + a single 512 mb module loads up giving me 1.5 gigs but fails within the first two minutes.
Other combinations yield no success

Like a half our or an hour before the initial failure took place something peculiar happened, in Second Life I could suddenly move at the speed of light almost (without this being ghosting or lag) something I later linked to perhaps being related to the memory problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.What happens when you press the key to enter BIOS?
When I press del to enter bios I can enter the bios with no problem.

Another combination that seems to work is two modules of 1 gig in the first and third slot

I reckon I have these 6 combinations to choose from and so far none have worked while using all four modules

   A       B         C             D
1 gig   1 gig    512 mb   512 mb
1 gig   512 mb   1 gig    512 mb
1 gig   512 mb   512 mb   1 gig
512 mb   512 mb    1 gig          1 gig
512 mb   1 gig      512 mb   1 gig
512 mb   1 gig           1 gig          512 mb

**correction** while I was typing this up my computer blacked out again, so the 1gig+1gig in slot 1 and 3 doesn't work any longer. it's so strange that it worked for more than a half hr, and now failed twice already.

I'm wondering if any of this has to do with heat, even though it was never a problem before plus it's winter here no chance of overheating. the computer is not overclocked. the behaviour of modules are increasingly unpredictable.

So now I'm wondering if it's the modules that are corrupted or the motherboard, some combinations work for a while and other don't work at all.
I've tested the modules with an onboard memory test utility that comes with vista I guess, and it found no problems with the sticks. This seems to be correct because when I run only one stick on whatever slot it works just fine (up till now) but as soon as I put in two 1 gig sticks it won't work unless i put it in slot 1 and 3 and even then it only works for a couple of min. If I try testing the modules with the memory test it stops and goes black in the first few seconds.MotherBoard Manual

What speed are these RAM modules ? ?

I have a problem with a computer that wont reboot from windows xp. It wont completely shut off to "restart". I have to PUSH in the power button to turn it off so I can turn it back on. The computer will however "shutdown" when selected to do so in xp. Any ideas?When did this problem start?

Windows Shuts down, but doesn't restart?
Have you added any hardware just prior to this problem ? If so , take it
out and see what happens. One other THING , try restarting by the
keyboard : Windows Key+R+Enter . Xp  still has a lot of unsolved problems!the computer works fine otherwise. I can BOOT it up and run it, it just wont "restart". Honestly, it all started after I tried windows beta 7 for a few days. I noticed it then and thought it was an issue with the OS because its still in the beta stage. When I reverted to XP with a complete format, the problem  carried over. ok, alittle story here. So i went into the bios to take alook at the power management options. I set everything to default in case something changed. I saved and exited and then nothing. The power flickered a few times and then just the power light and HD light came on. I thought "great, I fried my motherboard overclocking". but then i thought, there is no way. Everything was working fine, this has to be a PS issue. So I turned the PS off and on a few times and still nothing. As i pouted for a few hours contemplating a RMA, I decided to unplug the PS and try it again. Poof.... it worked and now it reboots fine from Windows . OK so what was at play here? Is the PS going bad or could it be the motherboard? I also un-overclocked it and figured after that scare I'll just go UPGRADE my processor. 
I decided to unplug the PS and try it again. Poof.... it worked and now it reboots fine from Windows . OK so what was at play here?

Age old trick....unplug the mobo..it's denied  juice..the caps are
drained..it resets itself and voila!..it works. Keep your fingers
crossed..knock on wood!

I am USING windows XP with all the latest downloads.
My printer has a problem printing with the cyan print cartridge it is the proper cartridge and is my second one I have used. When I print the cyan color has streaks in it. Have done all the maintenance on it several times cannot get it cleared up.  Need some suggestions on how I may clear this up.  Have been told I could take my print head out and clean it but do not know how to remove this if anyone KNOWS how to do this would appreciate it.  ThanksYou did not say what make it was. Never buy a EXPENSIVE printer without a one year warranty. Is that what you did? Repair of printers at home is not productive. Nice hobby, poor business.
Take it back.
Otherwise you need the service manual. I have had the printer for more than a year and the printer is a Canon pixma ip4300 .
I have cleaned printers before that heads needed cleaned its just that I am not sure if this one I can take out the printer head or not.  The printer wasn`t expensive but I think I should still be able to use it not very realistic that a printer goes in a couple of years just by using it at home.  Have had printers before and this is the first one that has acted this way. Quote

Have had printers before and this is the
first one that has acted this way

ASUS A8N-SLI Premium 939 NVIDIA nForce4 SLI ATX AMD Motherboard

This innovative board takes full advantage of SLI technology, supporting a maximum of 4 GB DDR RAM

So its not the motherboard so as refereed to earlyer i would check the slot and also check that you running memory of the same speed eg ddr800 or ddr1024. it may cause and issue on certain board HOWEVER usually the board will default to the slower setting.

Another thing you can do is go in to your bios and select the FAIL safe setting to See if it works the this is effectively running your memory at the slowest speed possable. after you know it work you can increase it bit by bit . i got caught buying ram on ebay from god knows where it was ment to be ddr800 but i Had to slow the ram timing down to make it work. but that machine still runs fine and its not that slow.
you can also change the maximum memory the computer thinks it has. in control panel- administration tools - system configuration - select the boot tab - then set the memory to the amount you should have. these INSTRUCTION are for vista. so it was only an idea maybe x64 professional the same function, Quote from: Peterwolfe on January 17, 2009, 04:07:50 PM

uh, that kind of an answer REALLY helps out ....by the way I have been using TwnMOSS a lot of years without any problems...

So its not the motherboard so as refereed to earlyer i would check the slot and also check that you running memory of the same speed eg ddr800 or ddr1024. it may cause and issue on certain board however usually the board will default to the slower setting.

uh, that kind of an answer REALLY helps out ....by the way I have been using TwnMOSS a lot of years without any problems...

DDR266 = PC2100
DDR333 = PC2700
DDR400 = PC3200
DDR2-400 = PC2-3200
DDR2-533 = PC2-4200
DDR2-667 = PC2-5300
DDR2-800 = PC2-6400
DDR3-800 = PC3-6400
DDR3-1066 = PC3-8500
DDR3-1333 = PC3-10600
DDR3-1600 = PC3-12800

I am trying to GET my computer hooked up to my TV to play movies from my hard drive. 

TV: Sony Trinitron model # KV-32S25  32" ANALOG TV (built in 1997). I just inherited it; no cash for a new digital TV.  On the back of the TV it has Video In 1: a 4-pin s-video port and right below that,  R W & Y RCA jacks.  Video 2 has just the RCA jacks.  Also, there's an Audio Out (VAR /FIX) set of RCA's white & red only.

Computer:  Windows XP Pro version 2002, SP3; AMD Athlon XP 2400+; 1.5GB RAM; NVIDIA GeForce FX 5200 Display Adapter; Gateway 19" LCD Monitor; Microsoft IntelliType Pro wireless keyboard

My initial game plan was to attach an s-video cable from the back of my computer to the TV.  (Being a novice at all this multi-media stuff, I didn't even realize I need a separate cable for the sound!!).  Having read all kinds of info on the web, I did this: with the TV and the computer off, I hooked up the s-video cable between the TV and the computer; powered them both up; switched TV to Video 1 (I figured that's where it needs to be since the s-video port is located above RCA jacks under the Video 1 column (see above); on computer I went into display and made the resolution 800 x 600 (read that somewhere); AND THEN - I was supposed to be able to switch the display output to the TV from my computer by hitting a combination of Fn + one of the F keys.

My dilemma: my IntelliTouch keyboard does not have an Fn key and having looked through its manual and scoured the internet, I don't know that another key will provide the Fn function.  Do I have to get another keyboard (I hope not) or is there some other key that provides the Fn function on my current keyboard? 

Also, while not even having conquered the video portion of this project, I realize that the back of my computer does not have any RCA jacks (I'm now thinking I may need those for sound).  Currently I get sound for my computer from a pair of external harman/kardon speakers that plug into the back of the computer by means of a 1/4" JACK - and work beautifully, with excellent sound.  Do I need to get some sort of sound card with RCA jacks for the computer/TV sound hookup? or is it possible to get some sort of RCA to 1/4" plug cable?  Would that work?You could map that FN key to another unused key in Windows such as use the "[" or "]" key mapped as FN. I have used this freeware before and it works well for remapping a keyboard with keys it may be lacking. Requires DOTNET Framework 2.0 to operate. http://mapkeyboard.inchwest.qarchive.org/What is DOTNET Framework 2.0?Wait. Where does it say "Fn" key? That is not a standard thing on a standard keyboard. Can you check your documantation to be SURE?
Also, did your computer come with a wireless keyboard as a stock item? Does it not have a standard keyboard. And why do you even need the keyboard? Doesn't the thing have a TV controller that can do everything other that bake bread?  I read about the Fn key online somewhere as I was trying to learn how to hook up my computer to TV with the s-video cable.  I notice that laptops have an Fn key.  My computer was not a store bought one.  It was put together by SOMEONE for me.  My original keyboard does not have the Fn key either. Quote from: Geek-9pm on January 13, 2009, 03:25:29 PM

Doesn't the thing have a TV controller that can do everything other that bake bread? 

Ok, About a week or two ago I was minding my own business on the computer, doing what I usually do, listen to music, talk to people, dream hop on Furcadia, talk to people on there. (which is a Multi-User Chat Kingdom or MUCK)...

All the sudden, my web browser, Firefox, locks up and I'm like "what the ?" I closed it  and all the sudden everything is shot to . The blue screen of doom that says "Memory dump" showed up for about 3 seconds, and then disappeared and the computer rebooted itself. When it was done booting, and windows XP was on it's way to loading, it would stick at the loading screen, or ask for a booting media. I really don't know how on earth this happened... I did nothing to get a virus, and nothing at all to modify the hard drive in any way... Just for the record, my hard drive (as well as the motherboard, VIDEO card, and power SUPPLY) was brand spankin' new.

This is the weird part. Sector Zero, which basically runs the whole damned hard drive, was NUKED OUT completely. So I had basically no booting media because it was gone. I had not downloaded anything malicious, nor have I been to any sites that could have attacked my computer. (If I can recall correctly, I was going to dictionary.com when it had happened. But that doesn't have anything to do with it because I go to dictionary.com often)

After a few DAYS of trying, I buckled in and just bought a new hard drive.... I think this is very interesting because it was just sudden.

What do you think?
How did this happen?
Could my brand new hard drive be defective?
What can I do to avoid this in the future? Quote

What do you think?
How did this happen?
Could my brand new hard drive be defective?
What can I do to avoid this in the future?

recovery console. fixmbr and fixboot. chkdsk. reboot.

I want to Install XP on old Dell Desktop. It came to me with XP home on it. The system is becoming difficult and SLOW, so I want to re install XP on it.

Dell L866r, 512MB, 20GB Intel 866Mhz   

For some reason it does not like to boot the install CD. I don't think I have ever seen a PC so bent on NOT booting from the CD. But I do not know much about Dell computers. Is there some kind of thing in the BIOS that prevents you from boot up of the CD even when you set it up for Boot from CD?

I have installed XP on number of systems.Here is the first time I found one that does NOT at even try to boot the the XP install CD.

Changed out the drive. Same.

Any ideas? Go into The BIOS by pressing F2 on start up.... Change your boot sequence to boot from CD .....



After thought.... it made also be F1  F8 F10....... Now I am starting to think the machine has hardware issues.
I got another Windows XP disc, but not from Dell, and it did boot normally.
I know the Dell CD is OK, because it installed on another machine.
I suspect that this particular machine can only update from Windows ME to Windows XP. Does that sound right? That is a s much as I know about this machine. At one time it had ME on it. But when I got it, XP was on it. Strange.What is the name of that Dell CD? Quote

What is the name of that Dell CD?

since the PC came with ME, the Dell CD won't work... It will install drivers for whatever model(s) the CD was designed for.

Either that or the Windows core system  should be in ROM

It would be neat if the core boot files could be "flashed" to an EPROM chip on the motherboard- and a jumper required to change what is on the chip, too.

Quote

It would be neat if the core boot files could be "flashed" to an EPROM chip on the motherboard- and a jumper required to change what is on the chip, too.

I JUST HAD A FLASH! 

NO Jumpers! A mercury switch!
Lay the case down, horizontal to bring up Windows!
Upright and it starts in Linux!

Get it? When you are lazy, put the box in the horizontal position!

Would that work on a laptop   

Hi,

I am looking to BUY some old pc800 RDRAM but see pc800-45 available.  Does anyone KNOW what the -45 or -40 that COMES after the PC800 means?

Thanks,

Six

Quote from: ThrowingShapes on January 16, 2009, 10:36:47 AM

Quote from: Track on January 15, 2009, 10:57:17 PM

Oh for the love of.. not this again. It seems like every few months I have rain in the newbies on this forum.

Yes, if Quad SLi was around the same price (or around a reasonable price for a GPU) as SLi, then there would be no reason not to get Quad SLi.

But Quad SLi doesn't even come close to being a worthy comparison because it is HIGHLY inefficient, where as having 4 cores gives you twice the performance of 2 cores. It does not matter if a program can utilize more than a single core, it's that WINDOWS itself can use as many threads as it wants. You have dozens of programs and mini-programs run by the OS itself running at any second, especially in Vista and having twice the power to handle them for around the same price - just makes sense.

It's simply ridiculous not to buy a Quad core CPU. What reason do you have for not buying it? You'd reach pretty much the same clocks by overclocking. You'd get no worse performance. You'd spend almost the same amount of money. A year ago, it would have been a debate, but NOW.. not buying a Quad core is simply the dumbest thing one can do. Look at Intel and their new i7 line - do you see a dual-core CPU offering? No, of course not.

Most programs don't use more than a single core. So ask yourself - why should I get a single-core CPU. And why don't you? Because that would be a waste when you can have 2 cores, which are at worst 0% better and at best 100% better, and the companies know this which is why they no longer make single-core CPU's.

I could GO on, but the point is this - if you buy a dual-core CPU you cannot be my friend. Yes, that's right. Friendship with me will not be a possibility if you waste your money on a dual-core CPU.

Where do I begin? Windows uses as many threads as it can, ok, but windows doesn't really require 4 threads.  I'm not saying a quad core is a waste, I use one personally, and this certainly wasn't intended as a personal attack which you seem to have taken it as.  You say they have the same clocks when overclocking, but you do realize that buying a board that can overclock efficiently will bump up the price even more. This specific person is probably new to the overclocking scene, seeing as how he is hesitant to peice his computer together himself.  As far as intels new i7 line (first off LOL for even bringing that up) those are intended to be used as high end cpus.  That's like asking why Cadillac doesn't release a car from the 1980's next to their escalades.  The single core comparison is, again, an ineffective one because both of us are aware that games require more than a single core CPU at this point which would be the reason for not purchasing one. Unless of course you didn't notice that, in which case I'm glad I could fill you in.

Oh and you not being somebodies friend will make them reconsider their purchase I'm sure.

Quote from: Track

Listen, either save up the money and get a GTX 295, or find a 260 for ~250$ and if you're lucky a 280 for around the same price, like we saw at Buy.com just a few days ago.

The 295, really?  You want him to pay $100 more over the 4870x2 for ~ 5% more performance?  I'm not an ati fanboy, as I own an nvidia card, but the 295, at it's CURRENT pricepoint fails on price/performance.

I'm done arguing with you over your ILLOGICAL posts, I'll let somebody else handle them from here on out.

It's amazing how useless logic is in the PC realm without experience. You, sir, can no longer be my friend.

Quote from: Track on January 16, 2009, 06:46:34 PM

It's amazing how useless logic is in the PC realm without experience. You, sir, can no longer be my friend.

experience? you mean, "use the newest card, motherboard, and CPU you can buy. I don't care if you can afford it" doesn't say much about experience.

it's called getting the most bang for ones buck. Not buying just manufactured video cards and CPU's at sky-high prices simply for the month long thrill of having the best available. The feeling wears off when, a week later, the price is less then half of what it was.

Where do I begin?

Windows uses as many threads as it can, ok, but windows doesn't really require 4 threads.

 I'm not saying a quad core is a waste, I use one personally, and this certainly wasn't intended as a personal attack which you seem to have taken it as. 

You say they have the same clocks when overclocking, but you do realize that buying a board that can overclock efficiently will bump up the price even more. This specific person is probably new to the overclocking scene, seeing as how he is hesitant to peice his computer together himself. 

As far as intels new i7 line (first off LOL for even bringing that up) those are intended to be used as high end cpus. 

That's like asking why Cadillac doesn't release a car from the 1980's next to their escalades. 

The single core comparison is, again, an ineffective one because both of us are aware that games require more than a single core CPU at this point which would be the reason for not purchasing one. Unless of course you didn't notice that, in which case I'm glad I could fill you in.

Oh and you not being somebodies friend will make them reconsider their purchase I'm sure.

say, does anybody want my top of the line ATI 3d Rage Pro? it has a overwhelming 8192 kilobytes of VRAM. exhilaratingly slow speed, and completely unReliable Drivers. I'll trade it for either a old cat or a comb.

Trades for old bits of fluff or string will be considered as well.

Windows will run twice as fast with twice as many cores.

Are you suggesting that Quad-Core CPU's have lower clocks at stock and thus require overclocking to reach the same clock speeds as Dual-Core CPU's? That's ridiculous.

You'd reach pretty much the same clocks by overclocking. You'd get no worse performance. You'd spend almost the same amount of money.

OS: Windows Vista Home Premium 32-bit
System: Acer Extensa 4420-5237 Laptop
RAM: 2GB DDR2
Processor: AMD Athlon 64 x2 Dual Core processor tk-55 (1.8 GHz, 2x256 KB L2 CACHE)
Drive: DVD-Super Multi DL
HDD: 160GB
Don't know what this means:Up to 896 MB Ati Radeon Xpress 1250 HyperMemory
Problematic hard drive: WD7500AAV 750GB  External USB Device

Received and first used it Christmas Eve. Using it for media backup utorrent. Usually get 300-350k down speed until it apparently runs out of STEAM a few hours later. Going more than one or two directories DEEP then results in a long, SLOW attempt to read (represented by explorer's address bar steadily graying to the right) it. When it (address bar status bar) eventually fills up, it asks me if i've formatted the disk yet, which I did first thing to it (pardon CLUNKY grammar). Unplugging power and then putting it back in a minute later makes the thing good to go for bit. Then it starts (heh, puns) all over again.

This is my first post on this site.  I have some knowledge of computers and programs and have worked on them for some time, but now I am really stuck.

I have a computer that started to freeze continuously after a period of time of running great.  There is some history of my attempts to fix the problem which I will try and explain to the best of my ability.

This computer originally was used at my office.  My boss always gave me the computers we were replacing and if the computer was really bad I extracted any parts that were any good, secure erased the hard drive if it was bad and got rid of it and kept any good cards ETC.

This drive was originally on ME with an upgrade to Windows Xp loaded over it.  I secure erased the drive with my Drive Works program to remove any work files and then proceeded to partition and format the drive and toggled the boot to work.  I have used this program several times and it works great.  I wanted  to make the OS XP.  My cd was an upgrade so I started with the XP, inserted the ME cd at the proper time and reinserted the XP cd.  I reformatted the drive to NTFS using the XP cd and went ahead with the install.  All worked fine as usual when I use Drive Works.

I continued loading my programs and upgrading XP---the longest upgrade time there is!!—and continued downloading the other programs I needed on the computer, i.e. Adobe Reader, Sun Java etc.  and of course more continuous XP upgrades.  I made several  restore points along the way.  This was done over a period of time.

The computer worked great for sometime.  Then the computer decided it was going to freeze up continuously.  I may have been on for several hours working fine or 20 minutes or just a SHORT shot.  It gradually got worse.  During that time I tried to decipher what had gone wrong.  I was able to run a scan disk and no errors were found.  But, it would not let me restore to any restore point on the computer or run my virus scan which is McAfee Security Suite.  I have that program on all three of my computers.  I know there are several more out there better, but this is what I have.  I ran the virus scans on the other two computers and no viruses.  Since they are NETWORKED, I thought that a wise thing to do.   

Ok, I figured I could have had a software issue first as I had a problem getting my HP 1210 ix program to work correctly and had gone ahead and removed it, re-added it, upgraded it on line etc.  Taking that off did not work.  So I checked my Administrator Tools and found the date that it appeared the problem may have started.  I checked my restore points for that date and had downloaded Sun Java, cd installed Microsoft Office and windows had downloaded the Hp software.  I then tried to uninstall all three of those programs.  Java gave me a fatal error saying that the program did not install properly.

Since I could not restore, at that point I decided to start all over with the Drive Works.  Well-----This time the computer froze while trying to secure erase.  This is a time consuming program and it would just not stay on long enough.  The drive was still reading DOS at that time so I was able to bring up the program again and went to do a format first to see if I could at least get trough that.  It did format, but unable to complete the scan etc.  So I tried again… same thing.  Then I decided to give the ME cd a try.  Apparently some of the things on the drive had been erased enough to start the install process.  I went for the format first as I was unsure as to how far the format on Drive Works got.  The format went along until the scan and then I got the bad sector found.  The last sector on the drive.  Never had that on this drive.  I believe it is because it never finished formatting from the Drive Works and kept freezing up.  I aborted and now I have a non readable disk.

I took a look at the inside of the computer and cleaned up the fans etc. with Blow Off.  They were dirty and I wondered if that was part of my freeze up.

Ok next thing I tried was Drive Works again.  First on the CD and then on A  The program started to load and then froze up.

I also have a Drive Washer CD.  That cd program came up, but did not see the drive.

Next step DOS  I stuck in the MS-DOS start up disk and it booted to A fine.  I changed the directory to C and did a dir.  I got the can not read message and aborted.  I tried a few times with different commands as I though maybe I could do an fdisk to go forward.  Same .. no luck.

Then I went to the BIOS settings.  I checked all the settings.  Oh.  I forgot the ME setup also told me the LBA may be locked.  That means I can’t get to the drive.  When I aborted the ME SETTING I could no longer get to the drive at all.

The BIOS settings see the drive It is an IDE drive  the LBA is on and BLK Mod on;
Size is 40020 MB;  clyn 19158; Head 16; WPcom 0; Sec 225; PIOMOD 4, 32 bit

I get one BEEP when it starts up.

I am getting conflicting advise from a few people I know.  One the drive was bad when I started this and caused the freeze, two it could be the controller, three it could be the motherboard.

Is there anyway to make the drive readable since the computer does recognize it is there?
I do have another old drive, but I am not sure if it fits or not.  I will be checking that today.  I was thinking that if I have the brackets another possibility would be a piggy back and try and get to the drive that way, but if it is not reading the drive, would it that way?

I have the time to mess with it now as I have a broken leg and I am home from work.  As to purchasing a new drive, my husband is currently on Unemployment and with me off of work I do not think so.  I would like to try and save this.  Sorry this is so long, but I thought you would need to know the whole story.

I do not fear DOS commands, but do not remember a lot of them.  I would need specific commands.
 
Any suggestions out there.  I am interested in what you may think the cause of the freeze ups was too.  I know it could be several factors.

Thanks for any help     Jan


Interesting dilemna...
Since you have ran chkdsk and the A/V scans let's assume the drive is healthy for now...although this may turn out to not be the case.
I haven't used Drive Works for years but i remember it to be a pretty solid tool...so we'll also assume that it isn't the issue either....that being said:
One thing that caught my eye was Quote

The BIOS settings see the drive It is an IDE drive  the LBA is on and BLK Mod on;
Size is 40020 MB;  clyn 19158; Head 16; WPcom 0; Sec 225; PIOMOD 4, 32 bit

I took an ME startup disk and tried to do a debug.

Help!  I have only gotten the run AROUND with all other tech help.  I have a Gateway desktop, running Windows XP, version 2002, service pack 3 (will return to this later).  It is a basic setup with an Intel(R) Celeron(R) CPU 2.66GHz, 2.67GHz, 192 MB of RAM.  I wanted to add 1 GB of RAM and was told not to worry about anything, just install and my computer would recognize the upgrade.  At first, all was well.  My computer was faster and all worked fine.  However, after about 24 hours, a blue screen error would pop up and SHUT my computer off.  Then, Windows tried to do a Sevice Pack 3 upgrade, which had already been done, but computer would not allow without using the start-up disc (I NEVER RECEIVED a start-up disc for windows XP because it was pre-installed).   Gateway went though a patial buyout and the company, MPC is going through Chapter 11 and I cannot get help from them.  I have been told to adjust my BIOS, but HOW and to WHAT adjustments? try removing the old ram and just use the one gig. sounds like youve got both in there.Spacecat9, First off, thanks for replying.  Secondly, can I just replace the original RAM?  I have a 2 DIMM slot and #2 is open.  Also, I was told I could add up to 2GB, but didn't want to push it.  Last, but not least, once old RAM is out, new RAM installed, will computer and operating system acknowledge and allow upgrades without installing start-up disc?   Really, I mean it when I say "Thanks!"  You are the only advice I've gotten.yeah it should. many machine funtion best when both ram chip are the same size spacecat9 is correct, and there is no reason to worry about old RAM. 1gig is plenty for XP.
If any BSOD will pop-up again, make sure to let us know, what it says.To Broni and Spacecat9:  Thank you very much, I hope.  Went with your suggestion, and all is good as of now...Knock on wood...lol.  Oh, and by the way, I believe that the errors were partially/all? caused by the fact that Gateway/someone added Works to my system.  Microsoft tech thinks this was causing problems because I use Windows XP Home OS and because of Works, my computer was trying to upgrade/override and change OS to Windows XP Office/Professional.  Make sense to any of you??  Still a raw novice, but with y'all and this site, I hope to improve...Thanks again.  All kudos go to Spacecat9
I'm not sure what to tell you about Works thingy.

Hello,

My CD/DVD drive has stopped WORKING. This is a new hard drive and a new CD/DVD. I loaded Windows XP did all the updates and all of the sudden my CD drive stopped working. I have tried to updated the driver its say it can not and I have tried to uninstall and REINSTALL  and its says it was unable to install properly. Please help. I bought a new hard driver and CD drive because this was happening on the OLD ones. I ended up frying my hard drive by messing around with this, and now its back!! I think it may have something to do with a Windows Update as I have done nothing ELSE to my computer!

Thank you for you help in advance,
AbbeyBy not working, what do you mean exactly?
Does it show in Windows Explorer, Device Manager?I mean it will not work (not sure how else to explain that) and it shows an error in device manager. (error code 39)

Anyway, I called Sony technical support (that is the maker of my cd drive) they gave me this link to download and the problem is now FIXED:  http://www.brothersoft.com/roxio-zap-download-36862.html

Thought I would share so if anyone else had this problem maybe it would help them.Good news

I am planning on BUYING a Linksys WMP54G wireless-G PCI CARD, and I would like to know if this will work on a Compaq PRESARIO computer running Windows ME?

Thank youAs long as Linksys PROVIDES WinME drivers...yes it should work.

I've GOT an older Gateway gaming machine running Vista Home Premium with an ATI Radeon HD 2400 XT video card, 3 GB RAM and a terabyte of disk.  Display is an Acer LCD with specs indicating it will operate up to 1600 x resolution.  Everything was WORKING fine until I was poking around in the ATI Catalyst Center looking at the video card settings and noticed a resolution setting I did not remember seeing before - 1900 x - without thinking I clicked on it and immediately regretted it!  Instead of getting a question whether I wanted to keep the resolution setting the display freaked out and went dark.  I'm thinking I set the video card resolution setting beyond the capabilities of the display and am now suffering the consequences.  I can only use the system in safe mode now - if I allow the system to boot in normal mode the display goes back to the dark screen which 'twitches'.  I tried 'LAST know good configuration' to no avail.  This particular machine does not have a recovery point so that will not help.  I am holding off removing/reinstalling drivers in the hope I can fix this in some other WAY while in safe mode - maybe a registry setting change? 

Any suggestions are appreciated!You just about got there

Instead of last known changes, select enable VGA mode from the list and it will boot into windows, reset your resolution, restart as normal and it should be back to normal.Thanks!  I'm glad I asked before going too far, worked great!   Great to know

Good trick to remember

I'm looking at purchasing a DVD/CD burner through Newegg.  This is for an older Windows 2000 machine.  It WOULD mainly be used for CD burning.  APPARENTLY the burner is SATA vs IDE.  Not sure what all that means, but do you know whether there would be any compatibility ISSUES with Windows 2000?  I know I have to buy a SATA cable separately, but should I have other concerns?Does the MBoard have SATA connectors ? ?

I thought this machine was running Vista...
What exactly does it say on this recovery CD ? ?
If it is an OEM CD this is not going to work...
Stop now before you wipe everything out.I had the same problem with my desktop (getting to the windows screen before the log in screen and then restarting itself).... being the novice that I am (this was also before I had stumbled upon this website), i took it to a shop to get fixed and was told it was probably a virus and the guy had had a few clients with the same problem.  Have never had to have a pc fixed before, and am so hopeless with even the most basic of functions that I just took his word for it that it was a virus and forked out the $160 to pay for it.  Computer runs slowly, it's on xp and is quite a basic model, but maybe it was like that before as while it was getting fixed we bought a LAPTOP and i'm now more accustomed to a faster running computer. Funny thing is though, prior to our old desktop restarting itself when it reached the windows screen, we'd had a few powercut's where pc was cut off mid-use.  Just thought there were a couple of similarities between our problems, and am curious as to what others think regarding the virus diagnosisNo No No. I dislike Vista. My operating system is Windows XP. THe recovery disc reads Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition. Includes Service Pack 2. Version 2002.Then continue with the XP install and see if it detects the drive,
If not you may have to pull the drive and set it up as a slave in another machine to run chkdsk /r.
Have you considered a new drive ? ?Well see, thats the thing.  This isn't some old pc thats been sitting in my grandma's basement, this is new, like no  more than a year old.  I never had problems with it, it was increadibly fast, top of the line graphics card, home built by my best friend's father.  I run the disc, and thats where i hit the roadblock.

The only three options it gives me is to A) Repair, B) Install XP, and C) Quit Program. When i run the first two, it gives me the same screen basically telling me that i dont have a hard drive installed in the computer.  Obviously there is, its connected properly, but the setup disc tells me otherwise.The AGE of the machine is irrelevant...if the HDD is having issues then they need to be addressed.
Double check all the connections once again and if it still is not detected you will have to use the procedure i outlined above.
I've seen drives fail 3 weeks after they came out of the box.If the machine is no more then a year old, is the hard Drive SATA?

if so, try changing the SATA option in your BIOS from "AHCI" to "compatibility"./////OK, i do not think the drive is SATA.  Ive gone into BIOS and there is no mention of SATA. I can enter setup, and for some strange reason, it gives me the option to f8 system configuration, but when i press it, nothing happens.  I can press f9 for BOOT menu.  DEL for setup. But no f8 command.

/////Still, i couldnt do perform the AHCI to compatability switch as you instructed for a SATA drive, so i do not think it applies.  That is where i stand RIGHT now.  Any other ideas?

I have had enough of this. I need some help.

I have a HP Pavilion dv8305us 17inch laptop. Love it. It is completely stock, no changes. I have been having an issue with the charging system. I'm not sure where the problem resides.

So heres the deal: I'll be using my laptop, nothing too strenuous, with the AC Adapter plugged in and the battery in. Randomly, out of nowhere, the battery light and power light on the FRONT of the laptop will start blinking simultaneously. The laptop then acts as if the AC Adapter isn't plugged in; the battery icon will show up on my task bar, and the screen will dim. My first instinct is to unplug the adapter and plug it back in, but still the same thing. I then observed that the laptop doesn't need to be on in order for this to happen. It will randomly stop charging as well when the AC Adapter is plugged in. I TRIED taking out the battery, starting up the PC and running it that way, but the computer will just randomly shut off, as if the AC Adapter was disconnect.

So I think I did what most would do in this situation. I went on eBay and bought 2 REPLACEMENT AC Adapters, and the laptop ran and charged perfectly for a few days, then the same thing started happening again, with both of them. Its annoying because I use it for recording my band.

I searched these forums and over the INTERNET, but no one seems to know what is up. HP tech support is completely useless to me unless I want to pay 50 bucks to diagnose. So I turn to you people. Any ideas? I will appreciate any feedback. Thanks.

-MikeHow old is the system? 

I wonder if it is the battery?  Are you in a position to use or try / borrow / buy a different battery for it?To my understanding, most rechargeable batteries need to be CALIBRATED to charge properly. If it doesn't get this "calibration", the system starts to forget where exactly 'full' is. Try a new battery, calibrate it, and see if it works then.

To calibrate:

1. Charge the battery pack fully.
2. Once the battery pack is fully charged, unplug the AC power, and let it flatten completely.
3. When battery pack is fully discharged, plug in the AC power, and let it charge fully again.

You'll need to set 'Turn Off Monitor', 'Turn Off Hard Drive' and 'System Standby' in order for this to work.[/color]

Good luck.

~ dairymanFirst off, Thanks for the replies.

I bought the computer brand new in the beginning of 2007.

I'm sorry, I should have said that I already have done a calibration, although it is hard to get the computer to charge fully from time to time because of the disconnecting problem. When it does charge to 100%, it has decent battery life, not too much shorter than when I bought it. The computer will still shut off whenever it feels like with the battery out of the computer anyways, so thats what led me to believe it wasn't a battery issue.

I suppose I can put the money towards a new battery, but i'm leaning towards a problem inside the laptop. eBay is my friend so maybe I can find a deal.  Yes, it is unfortunate that it could be a problem in the laptop itself.  Strange things do happen.Sounds like you have overheating issues and the machine is shutting down to protect itself...

without me knowing why? Was downloading and de-rarring....what could this mean? Just got all my cleaners ready with their jobs, so a clean mean machine....well... No Looper sound...lol...but as you have read, in another post, there are RAM issues....crucial says everything ok...this turning off/on happened after I returned to IE6 from IE7...and yes I restarted .......all temperatures under 35degrC....MEANING HD's, CPU etc

Have a AMD 64 3200+ 2.01Ghz (asus), 3Gb RAM (acc to device MANAGER and machine properties although DR Hardware states only 2048...), XP +SP3, IE70, AVG, Sygate

Malwarebytes no errors.......

Logfile of Trend Micro HijackThis v2.0.2
Scan saved at 02:28:21, on 17.01.2009
Platform: Windows XP SP3 (WinNT 5.01.2600)
MSIE: Internet Explorer v6.00 SP3 (6.00.2900.5512)
Boot mode: Normal

Running processes:
C:\WINDOWS\System32\smss.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\winlogon.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\services.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\lsass.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\Ati2evxx.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\svchost.exe
C:\WINDOWS\System32\svchost.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\Ati2evxx.exe
C:\WINDOWS\Explorer.EXE
C:\WINDOWS\system32\spoolsv.exe
C:\Program Files\Java\jre6\bin\jusched.exe
C:\WINDOWS\SOUNDMAN.EXE
C:\Program Files\Common Files\Logitech\QCDriver\LVCOMS.EXE
C:\Program Files\Logitech\ImageStudio\LogiTray.exe
C:\Program Files\OpenDNS Updater\OpenDNS Updater.exe
C:\PROGRA~1\AVG\AVG8\avgtray.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\ctfmon.exe
C:\Program Files\Logitech\Desktop Messenger\8876480\Program\BackWeb-8876480.exe
C:\PROGRA~1\AVG\AVG8\avgwdsvc.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\cisvc.exe
C:\Program Files\Java\jre6\bin\jqs.exe
C:\Program Files\Sygate\SPF\smc.exe
C:\WINDOWS\System32\snmp.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\svchost.exe
C:\PROGRA~1\AVG\AVG8\avgam.exe
C:\PROGRA~1\AVG\AVG8\avgrsx.exe
C:\PROGRA~1\AVG\AVG8\avgnsx.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\cidaemon.exe
C:\Program Files\Microsoft Office\OFFICE11\WINWORD.EXE
C:\Program Files\AVG\AVG8\avgcsrvx.exe
C:\Program Files\Trend Micro\HijackThis\HijackThis.exe

R1 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Search Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54896
R0 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Start Page = http://www.sol.no/
R1 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,First Home Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54843
R0 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Local Page =
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Local Page =
R1 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Internet Settings,ProxyOverride = localhost
O2 - BHO: AcroIEHelperStub - {18DF081C-E8AD-4283-A596-FA578C2EBDC3} - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Adobe\Acrobat\ActiveX\AcroIEHelperShim.dll
O2 - BHO: Skype add-on (mastermind) - {22BF413B-C6D2-4d91-82A9-A0F997BA588C} - C:\Program Files\Skype\Toolbars\Internet Explorer\SkypeIEPlugin.dll
O2 - BHO: WormRadar.com IESiteBlocker.NavFilter - {3CA2F312-6F6E-4B53-A66E-4E65E497C8C0} - C:\Program Files\AVG\AVG8\avgssie.dll
O2 - BHO: Java(tm) Plug-In SSV Helper - {761497BB-D6F0-462C-B6EB-D4DAF1D92D43} - C:\Program Files\Java\jre6\bin\ssv.dll
O2 - BHO: (no name) - {7c5c0f58-e061-457d-9033-77307f5ed00c} - (no file)
O2 - BHO: (no name) - {7E853D72-626A-48EC-A868-BA8D5E23E045} - (no file)
O2 - BHO: Påloggingshjelp for Windows Live - {9030D464-4C02-4ABF-8ECC-5164760863C6} - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Windows Live\WindowsLiveLogin.dll
O2 - BHO: Java(tm) Plug-In 2 SSV Helper - {DBC80044-A445-435b-BC74-9C25C1C588A9} - C:\Program Files\Java\jre6\bin\jp2ssv.dll
O2 - BHO: JQSIEStartDetectorImpl - {E7E6F031-17CE-4C07-BC86-EABFE594F69C} - C:\Program Files\Java\jre6\lib\deploy\jqs\ie\jqs_plugin.dll
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [SmcService] C:\PROGRA~1\Sygate\SPF\smc.exe -startgui
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [Adobe Reader Speed Launcher] "C:\Program Files\Adobe\Reader 9.0\Reader\Reader_sl.exe"
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [SunJavaUpdateSched] "C:\Program Files\Java\jre6\bin\jusched.exe"
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [SoundMan] SOUNDMAN.EXE
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [LVCOMS] C:\Program Files\Common Files\Logitech\QCDriver\LVCOMS.EXE
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [LogitechGalleryRepair] C:\Program Files\Logitech\ImageStudio\ISStart.exe
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [LogitechImageStudioTray] C:\Program Files\Logitech\ImageStudio\LogiTray.exe
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [OpenDNS Update] "C:\Program Files\OpenDNS Updater\OpenDNS Updater.exe"
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [NeroFilterCheck] C:\WINDOWS\system32\NeroCheck.exe
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [AVG8_TRAY] C:\PROGRA~1\AVG\AVG8\avgtray.exe
O4 - HKCU\..\Run: [ctfmon.exe] C:\WINDOWS\system32\ctfmon.exe
O4 - HKCU\..\Run: [LDM] C:\Program Files\Logitech\Desktop Messenger\8876480\Program\BackWeb-8876480.exe
O4 - Global Startup: Adobe Gamma Loader.exe.lnk = C:\Program Files\Common Files\Adobe\Calibration\Adobe Gamma Loader.exe
O4 - Global Startup: Logitech Desktop Messenger.lnk = C:\Program Files\Logitech\Desktop Messenger\8876480\Program\LDMConf.exe
O9 - Extra button: Skype - {77BF5300-1474-4EC7-9980-D32B190E9B07} - C:\Program Files\Skype\Toolbars\Internet Explorer\SkypeIEPlugin.dll
O9 - Extra button: Oppslag - {92780B25-18CC-41C8-B9BE-3C9C571A8263} - C:\PROGRA~1\MICROS~2\OFFICE11\REFIEBAR.DLL
O9 - Extra button: (no name) - {CD67F990-D8E9-11d2-98FE-00C0F0318AFE} - (no file)
O9 - Extra button: (no name) - {e2e2dd38-d088-4134-82b7-f2ba38496583} - C:\WINDOWS\Network Diagnostic\xpnetdiag.exe
O9 - Extra 'Tools' menuitem: xpsp3res.dll,-20001 - {e2e2dd38-d088-4134-82b7-f2ba38496583} - C:\WINDOWS\Network Diagnostic\xpnetdiag.exe
O9 - Extra button: Messenger - {FB5F1910-F110-11d2-BB9E-00C04F795683} - C:\Program Files\Messenger\msmsgs.exe
O9 - Extra 'Tools' menuitem: Windows Messenger - {FB5F1910-F110-11d2-BB9E-00C04F795683} - C:\Program Files\Messenger\msmsgs.exe
O9 - Extra button: NeoTrace It! - {9885224C-1217-4c5f-83C2-00002E6CEF2B} - C:\PROGRA~1\NEOTRA~1\NTXtoolbar.htm (HKCU)
O16 - DPF: {4871A87A-BFDD-4106-8153-FFDE2BAC2967} (DLM Control) - http://dlm.tools.akamai.com/dlmanager/versions/activex/dlm-activex-2.2.4.2.cab
O16 - DPF: {A90A5822-F108-45AD-8482-9BC8B12DD539} (Crucial cpcScan) - http://www.crucial.com/controls/cpcScanner.cab
O16 - DPF: {D27CDB6E-AE6D-11CF-96B8-444553540000} (Shockwave Flash Object) - http://fpdownload2.macromedia.com/get/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab
O17 - HKLM\System\CCS\Services\Tcpip\..\{87FD2BFA-54C2-41E3-8D37-BE2A6CEDA5D9}: NameServer = 208.67.222.222,208.67.220.220
O18 - Protocol: linkscanner - {F274614C-63F8-47D5-A4D1-FBDDE494F8D1} - C:\Program Files\AVG\AVG8\avgpp.dll
O18 - Protocol: skype4com - {FFC8B962-9B40-4DFF-9458-1830C7DD7F5D} - C:\PROGRA~1\COMMON~1\Skype\SKYPE4~1.DLL
O20 - Winlogon Notify: !SASWinLogon - C:\Program Files\SUPERAntiSpyware\SASWINLO.dll
O20 - Winlogon Notify: avgrsstarter - C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM32\avgrsstx.dll
O23 - Service: Ati HotKey Poller - ATI Technologies Inc. - C:\WINDOWS\system32\Ati2evxx.exe
O23 - Service: AVG8 WatchDog (avg8wd) - AVG Technologies CZ, s.r.o. - C:\PROGRA~1\AVG\AVG8\avgwdsvc.exe
O23 - Service: Java Quick Starter (JavaQuickStarterService) - Sun Microsystems, Inc. - C:\Program Files\Java\jre6\bin\jqs.exe
O23 - Service: Sygate Personal Firewall Pro (SmcService) - Sygate Technologies, Inc. - C:\Program Files\Sygate\SPF\smc.exe

--
End of file - 6646 bytes

Two quick comments :
You have a GHZ processor.....for stable working of the mobo you should have
a PSU in excess of 400 watts. Smaller wattage will give restarts.

With Hijackthis I get rid of 02- BHOS. Google : 'Hijackthis- Automated analysis
tool' or 'Hijackthis- Automated analyser'. There are tons of them on the net . Just
copy and paste your results and you'll get an idea of what's hijacking your browser .PSU = 650watt HJT log is clean.de-rarring ? ?

That's a NEW ONE.....lol, I know....hahahahahaha problem seems to be solved afer anew cleaning sweep....found a rogue setup.exe that shouldnt be there...

I have a Q6600 processor with 4GB of Cosair 1024 speed ram running Vista 64 bit PREMIUM. I have very few things in the backround  (just firewall, AV, ect), but my memory never drops below 40% usage just with my firewall and drivers running.

And what do you call Vista's new hourglass because I'm getting that for about 7 seconds+ WHENEVER I try to do something.

My CPU stays at normal levels unless I'm doing something strenuous.More info on the other components in the machine will be helpful...
I have the same chip and experience no slowdowns so something is amiss in your setup...I also have this motherboard GIGABYTE GA-EP45-UD3R LGA 775
and this CPU heatsink Tuniq Tower 120 Universal CPU Cooler 120mm
an Antec 650 watt PSU
and an Antec P182 case

It did however seem to SLOW down a bit after I replaced my defective video card for this one EVGA 512-P3-N871-AR GeForce 9800 GTX(G92) 512MB
I don't KNOW if that was just coincidence though.

What else would you like to know?

Hey guys.

So I have already BOUGHT this anyway but just anted to know what the community thought of it.
Of course OCZ or something similar would have been better but overshot my price range.

Hynix Chip 2GB DDR2-800 PC6400 240Pin Unbuffered Desktop Memory

Now from my RESEARCH, it is unbranded RAM but Hynix CHIPS by themselves are quite reliable..is this true?

Or am I looking at a module that is really just crap?There are only a few MANUFACTURERS of RAM - Hynix, Micron, and Samsung if my memory serves me right (sorry for the pun).
So, OCZ will be using RAM from one of those manufacturers anyway.
The brand isn't really important - only the features (speed, latency, voltage, heatspreader etc) and warranty/support.
At least, that's my OPINION on it.OK great

Thanks CallumI can safely say i've never heard of Hynix...Here Patio...take a look 

http://www.hynix.com/gl/index.jspNo...i refuse.Alright then

I recently installed a NEW Q6600 Quad core 2.40 ghz cpu.

I was playing crysis and i clocked the temps at almost 90 degrees Celsius.

I not sure why, it COULD be fan speed is too slow,

it cant be thermal grease because it was a new heatsink and fan module.

what could i have done wrong inserting the cpu and heatsink, to cause such high temps>?
Quote from: kizza1645 on January 19, 2009, 12:47:55 AM

it cant be thermal grease because it was a new heatsink and fan module.

Quote from: kizza1645 on January 19, 2009, 12:47:55 AM

it cant be thermal grease because it was a new heatsink and fan module.

How does that preclude the problem being thermal grease?

I need help inderstanding two Terms and what they meen?

If a CPU has Daul Core  and a CPU has  Hyper Thread  what is the diferance??

To me they are the same thing unless I am not getting what I am reading??Hyper-threading

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dual_core

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyper-threading

well most dual core processor have hyperthreding which ALLOWS multi tasking on one cpu dual core is like having two processors in one COMPUTER. so if a dual core cpu will ALLOW twice as much information to be process at a CERTAIN speed being the speed of the processor.

hypertreading juggles tasks. so it uses the power left over from the main task to run other task at the same time till 100% CPU use is attained. read more in the articles above.In other words.....Use Google, something you seem to be very bad at, Nymph.
You would be amazed what you can learn yourself. We don't want to do your homework for you.

www.google.comhttp://letmegooglethatforyou.com/?q=hyper-threadingThaks for the help.

And I do use Google but it always brings back so MANY thing that sometimes get me more Confuesed.

So I always think maybe someone here can just tell me out right what something is.

Thanks again

Hi guys, wondering if anyone can identify my problem? I'm not brilliant on computers, I just point and click.

I have a HP laptop which has Vista on it. The other day my mouse randomly stopped moving. The light is still on on the bottom, but the light on the wheel went off. I didn't think this was SERIOUS and the mouse was just broken, so I went out and bought a new one today. But I have exactly the same problem. I've cleaned out the port, but nothing.

Any ideas?

Cheers.so you're using an external mouse on a laptop?
what socket is it in (usb or ps/2)?It's USB. Do other USB devices work in that port ? ?Hi sorry for the late reply.

Yes, I plugged my HTC Diamond phone into it and it works fine.

I've just been and bought a Logitech Laser mouse, I thought it might CURE it, but nothing. When I tried installing it I got this message, same as the one yesterday:

Windows encountered a problem installing the driver software for your DEVICE.
Windows found driver software for your device but encountered an error while attempting to install it.
USB Browser Mouse.
An error occurred during the installation of the device :
The driver installation file for this device is missing a necessary entry. This may be because the INF was written for Windows 95 or LATER.

Now, I have no IDEA what any of that means. I'm running Vista, so i'm sure that's "Windows 95 or later". I'm clueless

Hey guys I am trying to replace a failing ide hard drive with a sata drive using ghost or disk wizard.
my xp system is about 5 years old works great except hard drive is starting to click. I ordered a 720 segate sata drive and I am going to TRY to get it to work.

I will be using a sata cable drive adapter to hook it up to my system.
Will I need drivers for the sata?
should I USE a older version of ghost 5.0 or a older version of disk clone or a new DOWNLOADED version of disk wizard?

my system is a emachine T2080

I could get a adapter card for the sata drive if necessary.

Plan B would be to INSTALL new drive and reinstall the old operating system but it has no up dates so I do not know if it would see the new type drive, and I do want to save all of my old programs on the system I have now that is why I would like to ghost it.

Thanks for any help
Rodbump

Hi,
Please can anyone tell me if I can use a PCIe device in a PCI slot and what, if any, would be the problems?

Thanks
The answer is that PCI Express and PCI are slots with different architecture;
the same also applies to AGP . So the question of Problems arising from
device fitting cannot arise. SIMPLY put.. there is no way a PCI card will fit in
a PCI express slot and vice versa. The same applies to AGP  PCIe is also faster transfer than PCI.
Do you want to use a PCIe in a PCI slot because you have a new graphics card and no slots?Hi,
a team here have COME up with a project which requires a good graphics card with composite VIDEO out together with a low grade cheap PC. We have a few old PCs and would like to reuse them. However, none have pcie slots, only pci.Well, CHECK to see whether any of those computers have AGP slots.  That's you next best OPTION if you don't have PCI Express.  If they have no AGP slots, you can get a PCI card with composite video, assuming that means S-Video.  For example: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814133233