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When I go to print (EXAMPLE a manual) with multiple pages from On LINE it will only print ONE page at a time and only when that page is selected.  Why won't it print all pages with GOING to each one to print.

Thank you,

Ron

Photo CDS burned on my Dell INSPIRON 530S will not play on my OLDER Dell Latitude lap top. The last one I burned used a mode that was for playing on older computers, but it didn't work. I have purchased photo archive CDs from Kodak that play on the lap top with no problems. What am I doing wrong? Thanks.Program used for burning ? ?
Was the disc finalised ? ?
Re-writeable or no ? ?Program: Windows Photo Gallery

Disk FINALIZED: Yes

Media: CD-R Try DIFFERENT burning program, different CD brand.I tried 3 different CD brands, but haven't tried a different program. Our 2 sons were able to play the CDs on their PCs for what it's worth.Try CDBurnerXP: http://cdburnerxp.se/ Quote

The last one I burned used a mode that was for playing on older computers,

Somehow after FAILED attempts to burn .AVI (movie) files to a Memorex DVD+RW disk, my computer is treating the disk as if it is a DVD-R disk. 

I've been using CDburnerXP to try to erase the disk and it keeps telling me that the disk is not erasable, telling me that the current disk format is "DVD-R". 

Is there a way to change the disk format back to the way it was?  C'mmon, get another disk...and stop banging your head.Believe it or not, I'm not interested in saving money, so I couldn't care less if I am able to use the disk again..

The reason I asked is because I AM interested in learning how to change the bit settings..  The more you know  in computers, the more independent you are, IN MY OPINION.

I understand that the format of the disk can be changed but I was never successful at doing it before and was hoping to get some pointers on it...

For starters, what is a good program to use......
Learning is always good, but in this case, I think, the disk simply went haywire, and it's not good anymore. Not uncommon with optical media.heh, actually it was two disks that went haywire...I only mentioned one disk to keep it simple.........and a third disk is in question at the moment..

I believe the PROBLEM could actually lie in my drive..............It is suppose to be compatible with most optical media, but it fails to recognize CERTAIN brands of disks....For example: It will not recognize FUGI DVD+RWs, but it does recognize Memorex DVD+RWs.......Even the disks that it CAN recognize it has troube reading sometimes...Generally a "restart" is required at that point.

I flashed the firmware in it once a while back and the condition of the drive didn't change...I thought that maybe an updated version of the firmware WOULD change/help the way the drive reads the disk..............but condition is still the same..

The time I spent troubleshooting that optical drive tought me a LOT of stuff....I have no regrets about purchasing it, because of that........However, I ready to toss it out the door....I think I've squeazed enough lessons of out it...

You're correct. Some optical drives are picky.It seems that Windows 7 works better with my DVD Writer...

I was using Windows Vista when I could not get those DVD+RWs to work...

I just installed Windows 7 Beta, and CDBurner XP teats IS able to erase the disks...

It could be that there were corrupt files in Vista that were preventling the proper function, and that a general fresh installation helped the disks to work...

Nevertheless, the Drive seems to work better with Windows 7.Since Vista is first generation to DVD burning capabilities i would say yes this is a distinct possibility

Both my CD Rom drives will no longer let me write to them. Get a notice that there is not a disk in the DRIVE. The drives in question are: JLMS XJ-HD166S [CD-ROM drive] and a SONY CD-RW CRX320EE [CD-ROM drive]. I have Nero 6 installed and it can't see the drive media either.
Have XP Pro with SP3 on a custom built computer ( Asus MB ).
The CD ROMS play and display fine. I can install software from the CDs as well.
The MS driver for burning: 5.1.2535.0 is installled. Did a MS Update just to make sure and all's fine.
So basically when I open a folder of photos to burn, I can get the "files waiting to burned to CD" , the Wizard opens and I click "next" and I get "No disk in Drive"
Most likely, the writing laser is out.Happens in both CD Roms.

Would something cause both write "lights" to go?Did you try another burning program, like CDBurnerXP: http://cdburnerxp.se/ Quote from: Thomas Bailey on February 17, 2009, 05:08:35 PM

JLMS XJ-HD166S

I've a futjitsu Siemens Amilo Pi2515 notebook. at the BIOS screen it says for the hard disk
WDC WD2 500 BEVS22UST0-(S1)1 and maximum CAPACITY 250GB SATA 1
but under the boot order it says IDE HDD : WDC WD2500 BEVS - 22 UST0-(S1).



The specs: are showing a WD SCORPIO SATA.Im going on what i have read. Quote from: davedat on February 18, 2009, 11:07:44 AM

I've a futjitsu Siemens Amilo Pi2515 notebook. at the Bios screen it says for the hard disk
WDC WD2 500 BEVS22UST0-(S1)1 and maximum capacity 250GB SATA 1
but under the boot order it says IDE HDD : WDC WD2500 BEVS - 22 UST0-(S1).

On 2/17 i was playing Celestial Destroyer online and the game graphics all distorted, and the game stopped working.About 5 mins later the whole computer shut itself down. This HAPPENED about 6 times EVERYTIME i went into the game. Surfing the INTERNET does not seem to affect it. I though MAYBE it was because the computwer was on for days, so i shut it off for 12 hours. After 12 hours i went back in game and after 30 mins it happened again. I am attaching pics. Can u tell me what is happening? This is not an old comp and very expensive...Please help

[attachment deleted by admin]Here is ANOTHER pic for some reason I could not post the 2 together

Lets see if i can post these 2... 1 is the graphics distortion i described and the other is what the game should look like

[attachment deleted by admin]Is this the only game that this happens with?Could be that your system is overheating or just a bug in that particular game. Another thing you could try is reinstalling your graphics card driver.

hi my flash disk won't open in my computer. I have tried to open it on different computers but still it won't open. please help me to make it run again even if i have to loose all my files. thanks.!Well, you could format it.  That might resolve the problem.  Of course, that will erase all files on it. 

You might try the free version of EASEUS Deleted File Recovery V2.1.1 to see whether it will help you retrieve your files. Quote from: soybean on February 16, 2009, 08:46:28 AM

Well, you could format it.  That might resolve the problem.  Of course, that will erase all files on it. 

You might try the free version of EASEUS Deleted File Recovery V2.1.1 to see whether it will help you retrieve your files.

what is meant by "not detected" is it simply not showing up in windows explorer? does it light up? etc.

I decided recently to reinstall my copy of xp, but I'm worried about doing so because my computer currently refuses to GIVE me any video signal prior to windows starting.  This first started a few months ago, but the video always popped on once XP loaded, so it wasn't a major problem.  In October I installed a new GeForce 8600GT, and when I first booted it up with the new CARD, after uninstalling my old drivers, I had video during the boot process for the first time in months.  However, once I got the new card all installed it reverted back to no video until windows.  I've tried pressing various keys to jig the VGA drivers, like going to the boot menu or setup, but nothing seems to work.  I'm worried about trying to reinstall windows because when I run scan disk on my C drive the screen it boots to still doesn't give me any video.  Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.Seriously?  No one's got any IDEAS?you could try a DIFFERENT vedio card, or you could try uninstalling the drivers for your nvidia card and just use onboard graphics.What HAPPENS when you boot up with the XP CD in the CD drive?

Try clearing CMOS
http://www.wikihow.com/Reset-Your-BIOS

nvidia gforce 8800 gtx 768mb dd3 can U tell me what has REPLACED this card? I think i am frying my 8800gtx and may need to replace it...but replace it with what?Another card ? ?

Kidding.
Budget ? ?HTTP://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130370About 300.00 USD

I've had my computer only for about 6mos and this has HAPPENED like 3 times. my screen goes black and a message APPEARS SAYING frequency out of range. i CANT do anything but shut my computer down with the power button on the tower.  i tried talking to emacines support but they were no help

Winxp , compaq 

First when i turn on my pc, sometimes the two lights on the case  stay green but the monitor don't turn on then the hdd light turns off  !! When it  does work and the pc login to the win if i try to install or run any progm. it shutsdown and reboots.
My question, is it possible that all  happen from the v-card , does the v-card have any thing to do with the win capability to run programs  ?  Or it's the ram mem.

Thanks .What specific model is your computer?  How old is it?  Have you made any hardware changes to it?  Has this problem gotten gradually worse or did it suddenly happen? Its compaq presario 7000 9 yrs old

I deleted all data on the  HDD then installed clean winxp! same problem happens.

i didnt upgrade anything !



Just keeps rebooting  then runs scandisk  for inconsistency and says somefiles been

trancated   as far as i remember .

I dont know if it the mem, v-card or hdd !?

Just i want to buy the right part to fix it mem, v-card or hdd ! Quote from: catkoot on February 16, 2009, 09:52:34 AM

Just i want to buy the right part to fix it mem, v-card or hdd !

I have formatted many HD's and have never had the following happen. Every time I try to format I get the message "Format can't run because the volume is in use by ANOTHER process. Format may run if this volume is dismounted. All open handles to this volume would then be invalid. Would you like to force a dismount"? Y

After I type yes I get "Can't lock the drive, volume still in use".

This is Gateway Computer , WinXP Home, C: drive, It let me format the D: drive (restore) with no problem.

Does anyone know what I need to do so I can format this drive? Thanksyou cannot format the drive because your running windows from it. If you really want to format the drive, meaning you'll need reinstall your OS from your XP CD, you'll need to boot from the XP CD and delete the partitions using setup.Back in the Win Me and 98 days I could format my C drive even though Win was on it. So, that has changed? The only way to format is by using the XP disc? Quote from: ronbono on February 18, 2009, 01:38:38 PM

Back in the Win Me and 98 days I could format my C drive even though Win was on it. So, that has changed? The only way to format is by using the XP disc?

Back in the Win Me and 98 days I could format my C drive even though Win was on it. So, that has changed? The only way to format is by using the XP disc?

Alright, Vista restarts randomly and so FAR I have no common thread.  What I can say is that sometimes it stays on for days, sometimes 20 minutes.  Right before it shuts down, the processor fan hums for about 5 seconds.  I have installed temperature monitors, and the hottest the computer runs is 50 deg C, usually more like 40.  I tried unplugging the processor fan, but it still restarts even though the TEMPERATURES are normal.  I even TOOK the heat sink off, blew out all the dust, and replaced the heat sink compound all to no avail.  I COULD probably figure out how to fix it if I knew what was causing it, but I really have no idea how to diagnose this.  Any ideas?

Thanks!Never unplug the CPU fan...some chips will burn up in less than 10 seconds...
Flakey PSU perhaps ? ?

how can i USE my FLASH drive on a novell client computer,

Does the length of the phone cable (wall to modem) make a difference in internet speed?noYES!no, but the quality of the cable may affect your speed(but not enough to make a noticeable difference).If it makes a difference that is noticible, it is a significant difference.

And this has been the real experience of many people.
In PBX installations, say a a Motel,  the cable can not be more than about 3,000 feet. And even then it it may not work  RIGHT in some conditions. If the cable is placed near things that radiate strong EMF fields.

In some private homes an extension cable of 25 feet may make the dial-up connection unreliable. Nobody knows why and/or does not want to bother finding know why. Just get the modem closer to the phone jack. Anyway, research on Dial-Up is a dead end.

Bur with  DSL, you have to use the filters. Preferably the unfiltered wire should be as short as you can get it. But I have run unfiltered wire  over a hundred feet to the modem. Worked good. Until the modem failed. Cheap modem.

Yeah, it should not make a difference. But sometimes it does.
and any internet connection you have, even T1, T3, and the other high speed ones...are always susceptible to EMF slowing them down.Yes, it sure makes a difference!
To measure this, disconnect the cable, and measure the Ohmage with a Digital Multimeter, and Thou shall see the difference.

An other simple sample is a Speaker wire. The shorter the wire the better. The thicker the wire the better. Again, use a Multimeter to measure the effect.

And if one still does not believe it, run your vacuum cleaner or electric drill on a extension cord designed for a table lamp and you will burn out the motor.
 

it won't affect the signal speed. However- there will be a percieved difference since some of the packets will have errors due to the line length and accumulated quality problems. The speed of the signal REMAINS the same... but more packets need to be resent, so the speed of the connection as a whole slows down.

the difference between telephone wire as used for Internet connectivity and speaker wire and several other applications is that it is merely digitized packets- as such the INTERNAL rounding of the analog waveforms back into digital recognizable form has more room for quality problems that a analol reciever would pickup and result in a noticable sound distortion.

as an example, let's assume that the top and bottom of the sendable signal are the numbers 0 and 1000 (of course, they are in Khz ranges for actual telephone transmitters, but this is for the sake of comparison).

Digitizing data will send 0 for a 0 bit, and a 1000 for a 1 bit after being modulated. problems with the signal quality can cause this signal to degrade and change on it's way to the destination, but as long as the value is on the same side of 500 (halfway) it is likely to be Demodulated back into the correct bit value.

Of course, the quality of the Modulator and Demodulator circuits, as well as Compression implemented by many modems can easily mean more errors or fewer errors.


Basically Digital signals are affected less by signal degradation then analog signals- so an analogy between Digitized internet signals and speaker wire with analog sound signals isn't 100% accurate.The use of Analog or Digital is not the main issue. With good tradition analog practice, a voice quality telephone circuit using traditional standards can go almost 50 miles without the need for a repeaters. (You had to SHOUT.) But and it is a big but, nowadays that is never done. In fact, the phone company hopes you are less that ten miles from the office. For DSL they want you inside a mile. In practice, the analog telephone signal goes further. The digital signal does not go as far.

Dial up is really a form  of analog communication of digital signals. It is not pure digital. It travels over voice quality connections, and can fall back to 1200 baud if the connection is very bad. About 33k is typical. But 48K is very good. And the 56k is only possible on direct dedicated wires.

DSL is well above 256 K in most cases.

Exactly how the DSL system works is more complicated that what you want to know. It is a hybrid technology using both digital and analog methods. The voltmeter check is of very LITTLE value for DSL. There are other kinds of equipment they have to use. I have talked to some of the support people when I had some DLS problems and I was amazed that only the field technicians had access to the stuff that really tells what went wrong.. A tech came out here to my home and measured the signal quality and compared it to his records. Thye use a spectrograph to map out you connection. Each connection is different because of propagation issues. You have to realize that if the cable has  a length of hundresds of feet and has open bridges, the is a lot of echo.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 17, 2009, 09:30:41 PM

The use of Analog or Digital is not the main issue. With good tradition analog practice, a voice quality telephone circuit using traditional standards can go almost 50 miles without the need for a repeaters. (You had to SHOUT.) But and it is a big but, nowadays that is never done. In fact, the phone company hopes you are less that ten miles from the office. For DSL they want you inside a mile. In practice, the analog telephone signal goes further. The digital signal does not go as far.

Dial up is really a form  of analog communication of digital signals. It is not pure digital. It travels over voice quality connections, and can fall back to 1200 baud if the connection is very bad. About 33k is typical. But 48K is very good. And the 56k is only possible on direct dedicated wires.

DSL is well above 256 K in most cases.

Exactly how the DSL system works is more complicated that what you want to know. It is a hybrid technology using both digital and analog methods. The voltmeter check is of very little value for DSL. There are other kinds of equipment they have to use. I have talked to some of the support people when I had some DLS problems and I was amazed that only the field technicians had access to the stuff that really tells what went wrong.. A tech came out here to my home and measured the signal quality and compared it to his records. Thye use a spectrograph to map out you connection. Each connection is different because of propagation issues. You have to realize that if the cable has  a length of hundresds of feet and has open bridges, the is a lot of echo.

Two of my screens have turned yellow? a Samsung 17" monitor and a IBM 21" monitor which im typing on right now... why would my screens turn yellow?More info needed.  Are you running dual MONITORS?  Are talking about ONE computer here?  Did this change happen right after a startup or while you were using the computer?  I have a Samsung 17" monitor that has a feature called MagicBright; it's a special button on FRONT that provides several different settings that affect color.  Have you made any changes using a feature such as MagicBright or the other settings on your monitors? 

Did you made a change to the driver for your display adapter just before this happened?  Anyone else been using your computer? 

Your OS?  Your video card? YES.. Im running 3 monitor setup. The screen has a switch to go from one computer to another... I have a Custom Built computer with 2 EVGA Nvidia Geforce 8800GTS Graphics Cards. I have no software for the monitors besides Nvidia Software (that lets me have all 3 monitors run.).  I have not made once change to the monitor software wise or driver.  i just turned on my computer and the screen was yellow for no reasonSo, you have two monitors connected to one card and one monitor connected to the other card, right?  Are the two monitors showing the yellow connected to the same card?No but i know if i hook up another screen to the graphics card i wont be yellow Found out why it turned yellow ... the cord is bad... when i found out that my 17" samsung was yellow i took out the vga cord and plugged into the other monitor VGA and then into my computer THX for your help anyways Glad to hear it's all sorted.  Thanks for the feedback.

Any one know where to get COMMODER 64 stuff? Tring google but its just giveing me HISTORY on it.Try ebay.com.I hate e-bay.   ...or: http://www.vintagecomputer.com/I got this WORKING just a heads up.

Forum Participants,

I am trying to update my hard drive on an M700 PIII 850mhz laptop. I have one MK3017GAP, MK3018GAP, and a ST960822A. When I try these I get a message "Fixed Disk Parameter or BIOS Error, SYSTEM Halted". I currently have a MK6014 drive which works just fine. I have looked into the bios settings and found what I am trying to look for is shadowed. When I try seeting up one of the larger drives with Western Digital's Disk Manager it tells me that I need that my bios needs to be set to Auto Configue. This would make sense of why I would get the message "Fixed Disk Parameter". It seems the bios is set to populate the cylinders, heads, and sectors for the 6GB drive. I need to change this to auto or to the c/h/s to match one of the larger drives. Is there a WAY to do this? Can I do this with a hex editor? If so, how do I go about doing this in the hex editor? And no it has nothing to do with jumper settings on the drive. I even tried using a DDO to try and trick the bios which did not work. DDO does not SUPPORT this BIOS. I have the most current Bios Upgrade. I have updated this a few MONTHS ago. Your assistance would be great. Look forward to hearing from you.

Sincerely,
M700

simple ? looking at TWO similar cpu's one has INTEL Dual core processor e5200 5gb ram and the other the Phenom 4X 9550 Quad Core 6gb ram,both running 64 BIT Vista. Which is a better overall processor? thanks The Phenom is a lot better than the E5200.  they're in two completely different categories - the Intel is a budget processor, whereas the Phenom is targeted towards the high-end market.
Hope this helps.

I have a HP dv9720us


I am going to upgrade to 4gb and PLAN to buy two matching sticks of 2gb.  What is the best ram for this system

I want to upgrade the video card... is this possible.  It has an on-board nVidia 7150.   

Where is the cheapest place to buy LAPTOP batteries?

thanks for any help you can GIVE me.

EMS1) Travel to Crucial.com to see what type and how much RAM the machine TAKES...use the online scanner.

2) Most laptops video cannot be upgraded...

3)Probably the Web...search the serial/model #'s.

I saw a post on a possible fix but I can't for the life of me figure out which button on the keyboard they are referring to! I have checked my drivers and they are current. speakers are acer speakers that came with my pc. worked fine a few hours ago, unplugged everything to move to a new desk, now speakers don't work. I have plugged them into all available ports and I can hear a cracking sound on 2 ports when I plug in but nothing after that. I only have 1 port to plug in and have 6 choices on the back of my pc. I've tried another set of speakers as well as headphones, none worked. don't use the headphones so can't be certain they normally work. I restored to earlier today thinking an update was the problem but didn't fix the issue. under sound settings it shows them working properly and the sound meter is actually moving as if there is sound but nothing comes out. thanks for any help!!Is there a power switch and or a volume control on the speakers themselves ? ?yep and it's turned on. GREEN light glowing all pretty LIKE. and volume on speakers turned up too. not system muted either. I'm stumped.On most MBoards the Line Out plug is Lime Green...is this where you have the speaker jack ? ?
Also you mentioned moving the machine...if it's an addon card power down and unplug all power...
Remove the card and re-seat it.
yep. jack is black and I have a black port, but it's in the green port. (all my 6 ports have the same icon by them) but I tried it in all ports and left it in green port. No add on card. fairly new pc, bought it last summer. sound card included. hmm. What sound software do you use ? ?
Any other components acting up since the move ? ?
How are your sound items showing up in Device Manager ? ?
Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager....don't know the software. what EVER is installed on the pc. going into device manager it shows High Definition Audio Device. Going through the sound icon it shows Digital Output Device (SPDIF). both places says it's working properly and I tried to update the driver (dated 2006) but it says I have the latest. If you EXPAND those devices by clicking the box on the left of the devices do you see any yellow !!'s ?I only have 1 device listed and it can't be expanded. I see no yellow ! anywhere. The correct sound drivers will be on the Driver CD that shipped with the machine...
Re-installing them will do no harm at all so it's WORTH a try.

Re-boot after re-installing them and see...got it!! found solution on an acer speaker forum
Click control panel.
Click Sound.
You should see your speakers connection there.
It may say Not Connected.
Go to the back of your computer and plug the jack into each hole for the speakers. When you plug it into the correct hole, your speakers will come up with a check mark by them in the Sound window!
Then reboot your computer and VIOLA!

it works!!Great News...ACER always did things their own way...

Stop by anytime !

Hi to all,

I Just want to ask which model of CAMERA or software for PC that i can use.that the same as fast of video camera that no delay in frame and clear? PRESENTLY aim using HAWK but its very slow. any RECOMMENDED model, software or ideas that i can use.There will never be no delay between input and output, and the video will never be supersmooth, especially over the internet.

Are you using it over the internet or what? While using internet or broadcasting to other. maybe have a delay but a only a little can you give me a model or brand? thank you for your replyI honestly have no preferred brand, but I don't think the type of camera matters at all.
If you are broadcasting over the internet, there will ALWAYS be lag. Unless the two COMPUTERS are connected to each other, there will always be a delay.

Can someone please tell me if I can install a better graphics card into my computer. Dell Lifetime support has really pissed me off. I just installed a Creative XtremeGamer Fatality sound card that works fantastic !!!! I did upgrade "according to Dell" from a Nivada 64m card to a Radeon 215m 9550.
But I am hearing that these ddr THINGS are on the boards themselves. *censored* I really liked Nivida, and would love to put the best card into my system. Can Anyone Please Help Me. I am never callind Dell Lifetime Support again. Can anyone even suggest a better graphics card for my system ?? 

Microsoft Windows XP, Home edition, Version 2002, Service Pack 3

Computer:  Intel (R)
                   Pentium(R) 4 CPU 1.8GHz
                   1.79 GHz, .00GB of RamWelcome to the forums.

What's the actual model of your Dell?
It should be on a sticker somewhere, for example Dimension 2100.
We'll need that, your budget, and what games you play/whatever made you decide you needed a better graphics card, to best help you.I have a Dell Dimension 8200
would like to get the best graphics card, can't afford a new computer
I love playing games, but picture seems to hang, like stop motion
I had a Nivida 64m, upgraded to a Radeon 9550 thru Dell
But have been told I could of done better... ThanksLoL, I maxed out Ram to 2.00 GB Looks like to really upgrade your graphics, you'd need a new power supply.
A new graphics card would really be held back by your processor, too.
Still ... this PSU and this graphics card should tide you over.
Would definitely give you a good upgrade, without wasting money on a really fast card that wouldn't be utilised anywhere near its potential because of your CPU.

Hope this helps.WoW guy, very bad reviews on that card.
So is the Radeon 9550 better than the Nivida 64m
and wouldn't it be better to get the ddr2 Radeon one instead?
power supply sounds interesting, but you have to fix it !!!!!!!There are some bad reviews, you're right.  maybe best to get a different card.
This looks OK.
The Radeon 9550 should be better than that Nvidia, but both are quite old cards.Hey Thanks for all your help, what do you think of this card?
XTASY Radeon X1300 512MB , do you think this is better? The X1300 should be better than a 9550, but it's still a low end card.
It would work fine, and you probably wouldn't need a new PSU THOUGH, which is a plus.Hey thanks Calum, but a LITTLE confused.....
what would be the best .......
the Xtasy Radeon X13000

or the

Sapphire 100175L Radeon and the new power supply ?

Thanks again for helping confused me !!!!! Sorry for the confusion.
The 100175L (X1650 PRO) is the best card, followed by the X1300, followed by the 9550, followed by the 64M Nvidia card.
If you have the money and want to keep this computer going for a while, I recommend the new pwoer supply and the X1650 Pro.  if you want to save a little cash but still upgrade this system, get the X1300.  Anything better than the X1650 would be a waste of money really.
Hope this clears things up.Thank you Calum, You have helped me out greatly !!!!!
I will never buy another computer from Dell
But I will buy one from Cyber Power out of CA.
Thanks again so much !!!!!!!!!!
Bill  You're more than welcome, glad to help.Hopefully this is my last question "yeah..Right...LOL"

I have purchased both the radeon video card x1650pro and power supply.

Do I have to connect a separate voltage line into the video card, there is a white connector there, on the rear of this card, or will the card be supplied by plugging it into the video slot, in itself ? And what is the POLARITY of this connector. I know my new creative extreme gamer sound card has one, but did not connect anything power cable to it.

If I install the new power supply first, do I still have to run a power line to the video card?

Thanks again for all the help. Bill The card you have installed does not require additional power from the psu.  I believe the connector you are seeing is the TV-out connection.  I'm just judging by the picture on newegg, but you don't have to worry about connecting anything after you put it in.

Dell's can be a little fickle, hope they didn't cause you to much trouble.

Enjoy your new card!

Recently I have been having a PROBLEM when playing games like DoW 2 Beta, SupCom and Left4Dead. while playing the cpu usage will shoot up to 100%, which is strange because my computer plays the games fine in between the lag spikes. As I'm playing the cpu usage will be about 55% and the games runs fine at about 35 fps. The problem started occurring after I downloaded DoW 2.

Plz Help

TYWhat is the main taker of your CPU usage?

When did this start?

What are your computer specs?Downloaded DoW ? ?
That may be the issue here...Oh I missed that part.

I agree with Patio's assessment.Thanks guys. will just have to wait for the full release.

Ahh WELL its only like 2 weeks.  just deleted, and tried l4d to see if the prob had stopped but its still there.

but what i dont understand is that, when i was playing the beta, the cpu usage sat at about 55% average between both cores.

my cpu's a AMD Athlon 64 X2 DUAL 6000+ 3.01 GHz.

Are there any kind of virus of bug that sucks up cpu memory and how do i get rid of them?

Help would be MUCH apreciated. TY Quote from: patio on February 07, 2009, 08:23:19 PM

Downloaded DoW ? ?
That may be the issue here...

it should not be its a open beta

here's  an interesting one. if i leave any website, or audio cd or itunes up when i close my laptop it will play sound from that program as soon as i OPEN it.

once i click the icon to login the sound COMPLETELY stops. this goes for websites, cds, movies....anything.
have done nothing to this computer to warrant this problem. checked sound card and DRIVERS in device MANAGER several times. showing no conflicts whatsoever. volume is up internally and via the external switch.

i'm stupified by this new occurence. i tried searching on this forum but no luck


any ideas???by the way

it's a Toshiba Satellite laptop with windows vista

i have a 27" tv that has an hdmi port on it, and i would like to use the t.v. as a COMPUTER monitor, and i'm about to BUY a video CARD. it seems that all the video cards that are great for gaming don't have an hdmi port, but come with a dvi-hdmi ADAPTER. will the image quality be just as good? or should i stick with my 22" dvi monitor?midnightfire,Yes, truenorth

A week or so ago, I had help on this site getting rid of some sort of virus. A couple days after I assumed everything was perfect, but realized that the CD drive was not working anymore. When I PUT in a disk, whether it is audio, files, or a game, it makes the initial SOUND as if it is loading it, but then the noise dies down. Then it just keeps doing this until I take the disk out.
I have an HP Pavilion Slimline s7320n PC and if you need any more information to help me out, I would LOVE to give it to you!
Thank you to anyone that can help me!!
CassieOne of these may help:
1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...
2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
Restart computer.
or...
3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...
4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll SEE two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.and if what Broni said doesn't work it is possible that the drive just failed. The slimlines seem to have a problem with their psu maybe they have a problem with other components as well.That's it.Thanks, I'll try what you said and LET you know

Hello everyone, Thank you for having a look at my problem.
My MUM wants me to give her a computer, so, I have quite a few old things hanging around. I decided to give her this one then that one, so on.
It doesnt have to be flash or anything special.... Just a computer that works. Pretty easy task you'd think eh?
Well, I cant get any of the hard drives to be recognized by either of the two computers Im working on
Now I know for a fact that the drives have an Operating system on them, that was working at the time they were removed.They are Win 98SE.

Specifically the Pentuim, 200 Hz, has a problem in the bios and WONT identify the A: drive and it reads Floppy Drive A: Failure,  F1 to enter setup.
When I enter there to check the settings, the bios says not installed and it doesnt seem to have any way to change that setting.
Am I not seeing the right way of doing this?

I can hear the C: Drive working/ spinning, but it wont boot past the A: drive section. There is a section in the bios to boot from CD drive, so I removed the A: drive and cable from the Mobo, set it to boot from the CD, and now it gets to O/S load in progress... but doesnt do anything.
I just have a black screen with "O/S load in progress" and a blinking cursor, and "Insert bootable media in the appropriate drive".
I put the win98 SE CD in the CD drive but it doesnt do anything? The CD spins and the lights flash but it doesnt go any further?

Any help to move further to GETTING this going would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you, ImnoguruWhat about changing the CMOS battery?That is an old computer 200 mhz.

Nothing wrong there just pointing out the age of the CMOS battery.AH yes, good thought, thank you street1, plenty of those about here.
Ive actually got a tester that says its fully charged too. ( However under load it may be different).
Well that didnt change anything REALLY.
Maybe I'll try a newer Win CD. Its only a 4 gig drive and a 2 gig slave, or I could try one of several other drives in the comp that might be LARGER tomorrow.

The C: drive , if it has an O/S on it, should load shouldnt it? So could the drive/s be incompatible: ie: IDE or different? The drives I have are all from the same dynasty!!
and why doesnt the CD drive register in the start up?
The light flashes and it spins? but doesnt read/load anything.
Where should the CD drive have its jumper, slave master cable?

Hmmm 32 meg of memory if I read it right, 32768 Kb? Not a lot.

The computer has found the C: drive:  Hard Disk 0 installed WDC AC32500H
Bios 1.00.11. DNOR 1992 - 1997 Intel,
American Megatrend
Packard Bell.
No beeps at the post.

Well any other suggestions please?
PS Ill read them tomorrow gotta go for now.
Thank you all for your help. ImnoGuru .
Well too old too hard  chuck it in the bin.


Moving on then.
Thank you

additionally before making any random assumptions on the wattages and their effect on the electric grid one should understand that the wattage ratings on power supplies refers to the DC output, not the AC input, which is always 115/240 volts 60Hz or 50Hz depending on location. The numbers of amps drawn at that voltage is directly related to both the efficiency of the power supply's internal voltage regulators as well as the draw of the internal components.

Basically, the PSU generates the necessary DC current to power the PC and internal components, by watching the power draw on each rail and adjusting the output to match (this is what "response time" means on power supplies- their ability to react to changing demands of the machine, such as when motors COME on and off and start drawing 12v as well as USB PERIPHERALS and so forth.Sorry I'll try to Be LESS Helpful in the future and leave all Quandries to the PROFFESIONLAS Like You If you Don't like my typing Don't look....What is Hi-Jacking ?? Quote from: Laska on February 15, 2009, 08:29:52 PM

Sorry I'll try to Be LESS Helpful in the future and leave all Quandries to the PROFFESIONLAS Like You If you Don't like my typing Don't look....What is Hi-Jacking ??

Hey! Here is my newest problem. My pc started to do this after my hubby was playing a very graphical game (4 Elements) and playing a streaming radio at the same time. He leaves the game RUNNING all the time and I wonder if that has messed things up somewhat.
Anyway, The screen flashes and you can still do things on it but the graphics get garbled and it EVEN affects the start up screen.
If you TRY to run any type of scan the flashing SPEEDS up
note: This does not happen in Safe mode
I have done a system restore, updated my Nvidia drivers, CHECKED resolutions, disabled the themes.....
Ran AVG, Spybot and Malwarebytes- nothing was detected
what next?
Any help appreciated.... Best bet would be to hook it up to another machine...this will tell you if it's the monitor or not...If it was the monitor would it not blink and flash while in safe mode as well? Not neccessarily...
It will be running on generic Windows drivers however this would not preclude it being a monitor problem...

However i just noticed this is a DELL machine...nVidia drivers should NOT be used...DELL's are picky about drivers.
Visit the DELL site and enter your Service Tag # and it will list all the drivers for that machine...
Re-install the DELL  video drivers.

I have had a set of Advent ADE210C speakers for some time now, they have worked perfectly on my computer (Advent T9408) Intel Core 2 CPU 4300 at 1.80GHz 1022MB 32 Bit with Vista home Premium)
I took them off to try with our T.V. and found that to work well, re installed them on the computer and although EVERYTHING tests O.K. states as being loaded etc - I can't obtain any sound from them, Ive taken them off again tried them with my laptop and they work fine - so I'm assuming (and we all know what assume means - making an *censored* of u and me ) its this computer, Any ideas?
Like I said earlier all checks sound through the Realtek HD Audio Manager work well, sounds come out of the speakers during the test but not afterwards. How about this then - after suffering no speakers for a month and spending some time as often as I was able to CHECK everything possible from drivers through sound card to almost drop kicking the lot down the back garden I accidentally dropped a folder on my keyboard and the speakers magically started working!
There is a small button on the bottom r/hand side of the keyboard with one of those eighth note logo's on (which I'd never noticed or used before) which I must have pressed sometime earlier without noticing.

What a dope!

But at least I've got sound again!Cool....thanks for sharing hey all, first post here. I saw this thread and it's SIMILIAR to my problem. but I can't for the life of me figure out which button on the keyboard you are referring to! I have checked my drivers and they are current. speakers are acer speakers that came with my pc. worked fine a few hours ago, unplugged everything to move to a new desk, now speakers don't work. I have plugged them into all available ports and I can hear a cracking sound on 2 ports when I plug in but nothing after that. I only have 1 port to plug in and have 6 choices on the back of my pc. I've tried another set of speakers as well as headphones, none worked. don't use the headphones so can't be certain they normally work. I restored to earlier today THINKING an update was the problem but didn't fix the issue. under sound settings it shows them working PROPERLY and the sound meter is actually moving as if there is sound but nothing comes out. thanks for any help!!You really should start your own thread. You would get more answers that way.

will do. thanks! just thought I would add to this one since it was the same problem.

When you are looking at a piece of hardware, say a CD DRIVE, how can you tell how much power it draws...

I know that you multiply, the volts by the Amps...........But there are TWO different voltages listed on a CD drive, for example: I'm looking at a CD drive with specs.    5 volt at 1.2 Amps        &       12 volts at 1.5 Amps........


Which of the two sets do I multiply together to get the total wattage...............OR do I multiply each set and then add the two results Alright I think I GOT it....The MOTER runs on the 12v and the drive circuits run on the 5v... Multiply each set together add them up and walla!  You get the total wattage drawn by the device....

I have the STANDARD Dell Dimension 5000 system with 1GB of RAM

what i want to know is if the PNY 9800GTX+ 512MB GDDR3 Dual DVI HDCP HDTV out PhysX and Cuda ready PCI-E Graphics Card [http://www.ebuyer.com/product/158532] will fit into my system.

My system specification is:

its a bit long and I'm not sure if most of it is relevant but here it is

--------[ EVEREST Home Edition (c) 2003-2005 Lavalys, Inc. ]------------------------------------------------------------

    Version                                           EVEREST v2.20.405
    Homepage                                          http://www.lavalys.com/
    Report Type                                       Quick Report
    Computer                                          TOM (Big Momma)
    Generator                                         Thomas
    Operating System                                  Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition 5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)
    Date                                              2009-01-27
    Time                                              14:12


--------[ Summary ]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Computer:
      Operating System                                  Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
      OS Service Pack                                   Service Pack 3
      DirectX                                           4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
      Computer Name                                     TOM (Big Momma)
      User Name                                         Thomas

    Motherboard:
      CPU Type                                          Intel Pentium 4 530J, 3000 MHz (15 x 200)
      Motherboard Name                                  Dell Dimension 5000
      Motherboard Chipset                               Intel Grantsdale-G i915G
      System Memory                                     1024 MB  (DDR2-400 DDR2 SDRAM)
      BIOS Type                                         Phoenix (04/19/05)
      Communication Port                                Communications Port (COM1)
      Communication Port                                Communications Port (COM4)
      Communication Port                                ECP Printer Port (LPT1)

    Display:
      Video Adapter                                     RADEON X300 Series Secondary  (128 MB)
      Video Adapter                                     RADEON X300 Series  (128 MB)
      3D Accelerator                                    ATI Radeon X300 (RV370)
      Monitor                                           Dell E173FP  [17" LCD]  (U494154N49RL)

    Multimedia:
      Audio Adapter                                     Intel 82801FB ICH6 - AC'97 Audio Controller [B-1]

    Storage:
      IDE Controller                                    Intel(R) 82801FB Ultra ATA Storage Controllers - 2651
      IDE Controller                                    Intel(R) 82801FB/FBM Ultra ATA Storage Controllers - 266F
      Disk Drive                                        WDC WD1600JD-75HBC0  (149 GB, IDE)
      Optical Drive                                     PHILIPS DVD+-RW DVD8631  (DVD+R9:2.4x, DVD+RW:16x/4x, DVD-RW:8x/4x, DVD-ROM:16x, CD:40x/24x/40x DVD+RW/DVD-RW)
      SMART Hard Disks Status                           OK

    Partitions:
      C: (NTFS)                                         149699 MB (37153 MB free)

    Input:
      Keyboard                                          HID Keyboard Device
      Mouse                                             Microsoft USB Wireless Mouse (IntelliPoint)

    Network:
      Network Adapter                                   Broadcom 440x 10/100 Integrated Controller
      Network Adapter                                   GlobeSpan USB ADSL LAN Modem  (192.168.0.1)
      Network Adapter                                   WAN (PPP/SLIP) Interface  (92.3.106.0)
      Modem                                             Communications cable between two computers
      Modem                                             Intel(R) 537EP V9x DF PCI Modem

    Peripherals:
      Printer                                           Dell Photo AIO Printer 922
      Printer                                           EPSON Stylus SX200 Series
      Printer                                           Fax
      USB1 Controller                                   Intel 82801FB ICH6 - USB Universal Host Controller [B-1]
      USB1 Controller                                   Intel 82801FB ICH6 - USB Universal Host Controller [B-1]
      USB1 Controller                                   Intel 82801FB ICH6 - USB Universal Host Controller [B-1]
      USB1 Controller                                   Intel 82801FB ICH6 - USB Universal Host Controller [B-1]
      USB2 Controller                                   Intel 82801FB ICH6 - Enhanced USB2 Controller [B-1]
      USB Device                                        Generic USB Hub
      USB Device                                        GlobeSpan USB ADSL LAN Modem
      USB Device                                        USB Composite Device
      USB Device                                        USB Human Interface Device
      USB Device                                        USB Human Interface Device
      USB Device                                        USB Human Interface DeviceCouldn't tell you about the GTX but I had a PNY 9800GT in my Dell Dimension 4700 (same motherboard as yours) and it fit no prob. I upgraded my CPU to a 3.8 GH 570J & maxed out my RAM to 4 gigs. Ended up taking the PNY back & got a Radeon 4850.
It also fits with no probs. You may want to upgrade your PS. My rig plays Chrysis, UT3, Doom3, Gears of War, Dead Space & COD on high at 1440-900 res. Some games at 4x-AA & some with AA turned off.Your chipset does in deed support PCI-e

There is now a question of if your POWER supply can handle it. Quote from: Kurtiskain on February 12, 2009, 11:10:55 PM

There is now a question of if your power supply can handle it.

well ive asked Patio and he said that the dell dimension 5000 uses the standard PSU so i have ordered that PSU and it should be able to provide my computer with enough power thanks guys.
m_260 i checked that website and it seems to be missing every component that my computer has so i cant test my power usage

Hey I just bought a new computer recently and having some problems. It was working fine and then I shut it down and then it came up the the error "REBOOT and select proper boot device". I wasent tampering with anything it just randomly came up with this message.

I went into Bios (v02.61) American Megatrends and the SATA 1 device was not detected. BIOS is not detecting my hard drive for some reason. It detetcs my DVD player in SATA 2 but every other SATA slot is empty. I tried to make sure the wires were in correctly and they were but that didnt solve my problem. I know the hard drive is spinning because I could hear it. There was also some message regarding express GATE but I dont know if thats part of this problem. IS there some setting in the BIOS to make the hard drive bootable?  I should also add that during start up before it never recongnized the hard drive but it booted up still.

My system specs:
Quad core Q6600
DDR2 memory 4 gigs
ASUS P5Q SE motherboard
Nvidia 9800 GT video card
Vista home PREMIUM 32 bit
Seagate 500GB hard drive

Thanks Go to seagate tools [google]

CPU Type   DualCore Intel Pentium E5200 <------

As soon as i got into game , it sky rocketed to 99c , and as soon as i left game it went back to 55c -60c , i was only in game for 5 minutes 10 max.

Fans 100% working , 1700Rpm.

Reseated the cpu and added a new layer of thermal compound.Where are the temps being reported from ? ?

Why did you single me out ? ?

P.S. 1700 RPM sounds low for that CPU cooler...aftermarket...or stock ? ? Quote from: patio on February 15, 2009, 06:02:55 PM

Why did you single me out ? ?

Why did you single me out ? ?

It couldn't of been 99c .

I can run it on WESTERN digital and alot of other ONES.  Probably not as effiently.It's still pointless.

WHY do you need to run it? for win98 an FDISK and a FORMAT works fine, same for winME, and 2k and XP will AUTOMATICALLY partition and format, so I'm not quite getting the obsession with using maxblast.I give up...

You win.its not a matter of me winning.  I'm saing that as long as I got a max drive attached I just use it.  Other then that I use the one built into the disk.

Replacing a laptop motherboard is a very tricky job....i think you've made a bad choice...even if they did tick you off.I'm not going to do it myself, I know a COMPUTER TECH who is going to do it for me.I still think you've made a bad choice...Um...wont opening it to get the drive out void the warranty?thats true and everything sorry patio but its a matter of why not so much that he can do it.  Quote from: squall_01 on February 16, 2009, 11:20:00 AM

thats true and everything sorry patio but its a matter of why not so much that he can do it. 

no cause they wanted the drive thats not something that is usually wanted or asked for when doing this kind of work.

The backs ones work fine but the front ones when plugging in a device don't do anything nothing COMES up in wondows to say SOMETHING is in.

i opened the computer and made sure that the cable from the front USBS were inserted correctly into the motherboard and they were.

Device manager looks good too.
So what can i do?
Thanks
maybe check your bios???

and/or remove(under device manager)all USB, the re-boot and let all be re-installed...

Good LuckOlder computers often had problems with front USB ports wiring.thanks for the advice i checked bios and under usb settings it said there were 4 (which are the number of usb ports in the back) i changed this number to 6 from a drop down menu and i thought i ad solved the problem, but they are still not orking. i even uninstalled the usb in device manager and when i rebooted they got reinstalled but still nothing.

After choosing 6 i did get an extra controller in device manager.

By the way its not an old computer i just built this.Double check your connections to the front panel header...
If it's not working reverse the polarity on the pins.

Laska, Don't follow the logic of your POST in regards  alberight's post? He claims to be on O/S XP. truenorthi THOUGHT HEY WANTED TO KNOW WHO OR WHAT dR.wATSON IS.......sO GOTHEE AND FIND OUT.....sO SIMPLE eH???The guy on the left:

what happened to the guy in the middle?  So its basically a debugger that goes wild some of the time.  Oh think if they made a movie about that?There is no Guy in the middle...unless you're seeing something i don't... Quote

I thought he was really Thomas Edisons :O?

"Dr. Watson, come in Watson, help!"  

i have a 486 that i want to install dos on the thing is during the post it comes up with this error FAILURE at fixed 0  I have another drive which I can try with it its a 4.3 quantum the orginal drive is in the machine I THINK there like 512mb so it should be okay for dos right?512 will not work properly in a 486.

Most chipsets won't even let you put that much in, and those that do can still only Cache the first 128MB or 256MB. In short- putting more then that amount will make it go slower (!).

you can get by with 1MB for pure DOS, but of course more is always better. You won't runn into many... If any, programs for DOS requiring more then 64MB.

Unless your actually talking about disk space, which would also be plenty. You should take to reading the manuals or googling some of these things, it's not hard to find the system requirements for DOS versions on the net, and to your advantage you will actually know what version your talking about.I do mean the drive size I dont think the make of that drive makes ram an I understand that,  I do I have a book that I'm using in my os class that has the specs just couldnt call it off.  The thing is the failure fixed 0 issue is the drive bad or something?  it has a cd drive attached to the same cable could that be it.  Someone said once that I could have a master on the slave part of an IDE cable.  Think it was patio.  could this cause this to generate that error?

MB=================================Slave========Master.

A hard drive should always be set to master when possible...So in other word try an change the cable so that its the master.  I think its jumpered like that or at least should be since this was the only drive in it.any thoughts on what I can do???............... &GT; Quote from: squall_01 on February 11, 2009, 11:06:00 AM

an everything.

I use the ImationLockv.108 program into a Kingston 4GB flash drive. Now my Kingston flash drive cannot be use.
My PC can detect the flash drive but when I click it, its SAYS "Please insert disc into drive F:"
Can someone please help me provide a way to tackle this MATTER.
Thank you for the help.
 I'm AFRAID I don't know the program.

Does it run off the USB or from the computer?User Manual

It's a .pdf so if you don't have Acrobat DLoad and install Foxit Reader...

Okay, I cracked the screen on the  laptop. I ORDERED a replacement screen thru eBay, after removing the cracked screen and verifying the specs. My new screen bolted right in, and the wires  plugged right in. PROBLEM is that I can only view the screen with a flashlight!!!! I am still pretty inexperienced in these matters, having only rebuilt my old Dell C600 Latitude and this 'custom' desktop I am uding right now. Any advice would be appreciated ... Thanks!!!Was the monitor you purchased thru Ebay new or used?Do you know if your back LIGHT and inverter are okay,or were they changed too?The monitor was new, and in came with the inverter. I even hooked up the old inverter to try and troubleshoot the problem. How can I test to check the backlight thing? I don't think I replaced the backlight ... Do those typically go out when the screen gets cracked?Look at these 2 links.It could have easily ruined the backlight/lamp.

Dell   Inspiron E1505   15.4   MSLDELL154W

http://www.lcdparts.net/ccflDetail.aspx?ProductCCFL=MSLDELL154W


http://www.lcdparts.net/agnCCFLlamp.aspx?gclid=CImijsnwvJgCFQa-sgodrz2lZQActually, the backlight was in the new screen, so I assume that IT works ... I went ahead and located an inverter for $32 to the door. Hopefully, that'll fix the problem.!!! Thanks!!!Hope it works out for you. Okay, new inverter - NO DIFFERENCE!!! Checked out replacing backlight, but it came installed in the new screen (along with ther new inverter). Is the cable for the backlight possibly disconnected at the motherboard? If thats possible, then I could just tear out the guts, couldn't I? THANKS!!!I mean, open it up and re-attach the cable/wire ... Does ANYBODY know where I could locate a SCHEMATIC? Dell won't help since the 'extended warranty plan' wasn't purchased ... AND, come to think of it, they may have SABATOGED IT!!! Right before the screen got cracked, my Mother ( who I am doing this for ) let Dell into the computer REMOTELY when she was having issues with the computer going into what she thought was sleep mode ... her warranty had JUST expired too ... HMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!!

I have my desktop computer screen, couldn't I plug this moniter into that laptop and read the settings? Or will I have to configure the laptop to be 'plug and play' or read from the EXTERNAL moniter??? ANY help is appreciated!!! thanks!!!

Please could one of you help
The other day i accidentally dropped my lap top and since then it keeps shutting down
It will stay on for so long then i get a series of bleeps and it shuts down,
sometimes it stays of for longer than other TIMES .
I have also noticed that the fan comes on after a few seconds after start up an  doesn't shut off.constant whirling noise .
the lap top is an e systems running on windows XP pro media centre,
Not sure what other information you require
skybluewell if you dropped it chances are there is HARDWARE damage. there is not much you can do other than get it repaired, and try not to drop it in the future. sorry i cant be any more help Quote

well if you dropped it chances are there is hardware damage.

I have got a question to ask.  If one of the computers I use has 1GB of RAM, would it make any performance difference to upgrade to a 512MB PCI video card?It'll help in video department (using graphic programs, playing games, watching video, etc.).if you upgrade RAM you will find running more than one application will be much smother, like for instance if you were playing a game and you wanted to Alt + Tab out; to put some music on or look something up on the internet, higher RAM would make this process much QUICKER. i generally found Alt + Tabbing out of a game with 1Gbs of RAM is very slow and i would recommend getting 2Gbs to speed things up.

if you upgrade your video card you will see an in game FPS increase and you be able to put your display settings higher without decreasing performance.

and if you don't play games then getting a new video card seems kinda pointless  mannsupreme, I would have to say that the computer that I want to upgrade the graphics card on has a maximum of 1GB of RAM, and can't support any more than that.  However, I haven't upgraded the video card of our library computer, and am adding even more RAM to it right now.  Speaking of our library computer, it has 2GB of RAM, and will have 4GB of RAM when I upgrade.  However, as the installation of Windows XP on the library computer is 32-bit, only 3.25GB of RAM will be detected.  That won't bother me any.

The computer that has 1GB of RAM is a Dell that is in our basement, which I upgraded last year.  I was thinking of getting a better video card as Doom 3 has a choppy framerate when played on the Dell in higher resolutions.oh ok then, what video card does you current Dell system have? i just checked the requirements for Doom 3 and i would suggest getting a 128Mb video card or a 256Mb video card if you want smother game play. what dell system is it? because its quite unusual for a dell system to not accept any RAM larger than 1Gb or are you using a laptop?
but to be honest the game should run fine without a RAM upgrade  The Dell I'm using is a desktop computer from 2003.  I'm not trying to upgrade the RAM, as it is maxed out.  It currently has a 256MB video card installed, and I am thinking about upgrading to a 512MB video card.  As the computer will only accept PCI cards, I know of only one card I can get.what dell system are you using? and what card are you thinking of getting?The computer is a Dell Dimension 2350 2.4 Ghz with Windows XP Home Edition.  The video card I'm trying to find is the NVIDIA GeForce 8400 512MB PCI.  (I believe I've seen that card on eBay.)From what I know, there's two versions of that card, PCI and PCI-E. 

For instance, here's a link to an eBay listing of the PCI card.  The PCI-E card is far more common.

http://cgi.ebay.com/EVGA-512-P1-N724-LR-GeForce-8400-GS-512MB-DDR2-PCI-Grap_W0QQitemZ290293508581QQcmdZViewItemQQptZPCC_Video_TV_Cardsi found the card you are looking at on the EVGA website you might want to take a look at it
http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=512-P1-N724-LR&family=GeForce%208%20Series%20Family
they are the same card but im just showing you this if the card on ebay is bought outI just looked and NOTICED that this card requires a minimum 350 watt power SUPPLY, and the power supply in the system is a 300 watt, which I had installed last year.  I cannot buy this card unless I upgrade to a better power supply.  I'd need to see the maximum wattage the computer is able to use before continuing.Speaking of which, this would be the PSU I'd want to get:

http://pcpowerzone.com/2350.html

Anyways, I'm going to wait for a while before upgrading.hmm that's a shame because there are much cheaper and better PSUs around but your system doesn't support a standard PSU but it looks like that would support it. if i find a cheaper power supply ill let you know

Greetings,
My four year old "Notebook Computer", Model D4F seems to want to shutdown all by itself unexpectedly more and more these days.  That along with a red-flickering screen that comes and goes.  The fan is OPERATING and the vents are clean.  Any ideas?  Failing motherboard?  If so, is it worth repairing?  
Bill1.  sounds  like a  heat problem     what brand is this ?  a  Lenovo ?  a few brands run real hot*

what is the laptop  worth ?    "I'm too  old to do a google search right now *   
Thanks for your reply.  The "notebook" was MADE by Sager.  The heat causation occurred to me also.  If it is a heat - ventilation problem, do you think something (HD, motherboard, etc.) is being cooked?  If so, I suppose there's not much sense in trying to repair it since it WOULD EVENTUALLY reoccur.   What say ye?

Billbuy an  "external"  fan,  it may help...  other than that ask  PATIO*  good luck

I have an older LAPTOP that I would like to use as a dvd player only.   The device manager identifies the drive as a CDROM/DVD RAM.   Should that be able to play movies?   I installed cyberlinks power dvd and VLC but I always come up against the error message " A disc with an unsupported format is in Drive D"    Am I trying to MAKE a drive do something it wasn't designed for or is there software that I need.   The laptop manufacturer is no longer in business.   The laptop has WIN XP SP3 on it.What is the movie format, you're trying to play?
Where the movie DVDs are from? Home made?I am not sure of the format.   They were commercial videos (movies) that I rented.   THey will play on my regular dvd player.Open WINDOWS Explorer.
Can you see the drive there.
Can you see VOB files on DVD?Did you TRY to update drive firmware?I did try to update the driver but that wasn't the answer.   I don't have the dvd's now given they had to be mailed back so not sure of what format other than they were commercials dvds, movies     I can see the drive in explorer or my computer but it identifies itself as CDROM/DVD RAM.   I'm not sure what that designation means.I suspect, the drive itself is bad.Blu-Ray discs, maybe?

I have a ton of old family photos to scan into my computer.  Very few have negatives but a few do.  Most are just the photos.  My question is.  Is there a scanner that has an AUTO feeder that will work with photos?  I didn't KNOW if they made one.  I know they have document feeders but wasn't sure if it would damage photos.
Thanks for your time.
NancyI've NEVER used one, but looking on-line, I can see, that some scanners come with photo feeders, or feeders can be purchased separately.
What's your scanner brand, and model?I'm in search of the same THING. This is what I have FOUND so far: E06245-PanDigital Universal 4"x 6" Photo Mini-Scanner but the reviews are really bad. I know I cannot use the scanner I have because it ...I guess I had better check because it does have a photo thing on the top.

I Have An HDD [Secondary] that clicks & then Whhhiiirrrrsss as if winding down every 20 or 30 min's WHETHER I'm using any thing off of it or not.....Anyone know what this may be What protection apps are you running ? ?
Indexing service turned on or off ? ?NORTON Internet security,   Indexing OFF,    Clicking HD is usually bad news. It may be ready to GO south.Let's find out what is indexing the drive first...
Turn off Norton...does it stop ? ?
If not DLoad and INSTALL Process Explorer...FREE.Yes I Have it & there are 2 Norton things that won't shut off and will not allow me access. I also downloaded the Norton Removal tool & ERUNT  & Made a backup of my Reg BUT I don't Know what to do if there is a prob. after that or what to do with my Reg Copy if I need to......I read the thread about Removing the Norton Virus but that's as far as it went. There are still 2 norton[Symantec Settings Mgr, Event Mgr, &LicNetConnect], oh more Symantec AppCore & Core LC....I Uninstalled using Windows then GOT spooked to go any further and none of the rest of this norton can be shut off ??Use Norton removal tool.

I went to shut down my computer yesterday and it said there was an UPDATE b4 i shut it down, so i let it update. then today i turned it on and it said i had to finish an update so i did... it said it updated my graphics to nvidia geforce 7150m, but i googled what my computer STARTED with and it was nvidia geforce go 7200. was that a downgrade or upgrade?That's why it's not recommended to use Windows updates to update anything else, but Windows.
So if it was a downgrade, how mmuch worse is it? and how can i fix it?You can go to nVidia site, download correct driver, UNINSTALL current driver, and install new one.
On the other hand, if your VIDEO works fine, you may want to leave it alone.ok thanksYou're welcome