Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

i was using a Lenovo desktop with a 12 V DC TFT monitor..it was all fine till I decided to use the TFT monitor with another desktop which don't have the 12 V DC socket in its SMPS.. .that time I didn't care to check the voltage rating at the monitor's back pannel and plugged it directly into the 220 V AC supply. now its not showing anything in the screen..only some strange lines..please tell me what has actually happened to it..and how much will it cost to repair it...
i think only the power circuit board inside has blown up..replacing or fixing it may work...please guide me..  Quote from: amitmula on January 15, 2009, 03:57:32 AM

i was using a Lenovo desktop with a 12 V DC TFT monitor..it was all fine till I decided to use the TFT monitor with another desktop which don't have the 12 V DC socket in its SMPS.. .that time I didn't care to check the voltage rating at the monitor's back pannel and plugged it directly into the 220 V AC supply. now its not showing anything in the screen..only some strange lines..please tell me what has actually happened to it..and how much will it cost to repair it...
i think only the power circuit board inside has blown up..replacing or fixing it may work...please guide me.. 

but i did some alteration

I think this is the key phrase:
Quote from: amitmula on January 15, 2009, 05:14:07 AM

but i did some alteration

Why? Why hook up something designed for 12V DC to 220Volts AC? How can one even fathom that working?

If that is true you may be lucky enough that there could be an internal fuse that will blow (to prevent damage to the rest of the monitor). If your lucky that can be replaced and your back in business.If you have the manual for the monitor it should mention and give the location of the fuse. If not contact the manufacturer of the monitor or try a google search on the monitor for a manual.goodluck,truenorth

If you have another monitor, then why not just use that one?
Seems easier than taking it apart to fix the other monitor.

I have three printers connected to this computer. My default is a Panasonic KX-P4400 and suddenly when I tried to print to it today, I keep getting an error. It's a USB connection. I deleted the printer and re-installed it again with no luck. My other Panasonic KX-P7100 is a serial connection and I get the same error. I can print to my colour printer which is a Epson Stylus with a USB connection. I know that there is no a problem with the connection because as soon as I turn on the printer I can see it on my task bar. At first I thought it was a problem with spooling but yet I can still print to my colour printer. The only thing I installed recently was  ZoneAlarm firewall. Could that possibly be the problem?What error do you receive when you try to print?I don't get any errors on my printers but after about 35 secs. I get an error on the computer that the job failed to print. I'm going to hook up ONE of my printers to my laptop to see if I can get it to print there. I am so stupid. I can't believe I did this. I was selecting the printer that was off each  time. They SAY so many brain cells die each day but I think they all died yesterday.  Consider this one solved. ThanksShame on you!   

I, of course, NEVER MAKE mistakes like this!  Never!   

ALWAYS glad to see a fix.   Good WORK tracking down the issue...and Yes we've all probably done this.

how do I determine the chipset on my dell INSPIRON 8600?
what is the difference between a Inspiron VS XPS 1530Travel to Dell's site and enter your service tag # from the back of the MACHINE...the results will be what's in your machine... Quote from: patio on January 18, 2009, 05:40:40 PM

Travel to Dell's site and enter your service tag # from the back of the machine...the results will be what's in your machine...

Sorry I guess that would have helped!!   

If I decided to buy a new SOUND card, would it work on any system? pigsfeet why are you hijacking ANOTHER sound thread ? ?
You have 4 PAGES of replies in your original post that you don't want to listen to and another 2 recent threads as well...
Buy a darn sound card already...install the DRIVERS and be done with it.

Topic Closed.
Leon if you need this re-opened to solve your issue PM me...

I have a Compaq Presario SR2180NX desktop. Throughout it's use, the FAN (Both processor and case fan) went SUPER loud, then back to quiet. This repeated all the time.

I cleaned the case out, and removed all the dust, but the *censored* fans are still doing the same thing. Now, the fans are one loud permanently and it's really REALLY irritating me.

I even have a third fan in the case, and the side panel is off! None of the suggestions I saw helped.

Is it fixable or should I start looking for another computer?Its probably your cpu fan MAKING the NOISE.  Your cpu is getting hot and the fan needs to speed up to cool it off.  Nothing you can do bedsides get a new cooler or GIVE it to me.90% of all fans in a PC can be replaced including your CPU fan...
I would do this immediately if you want to save that machine.
Using it as is can result in PERMANENT damagem
Remove the CPU fan and one case fan and bring them with you to get a proper match...

P.S. Also pick up a CMOS battery while you are there...it may not be retaining the default settings which is throttling the fans to full.
Part # CR 2032 about 3 bucks.

You'll probably rescue that machine for under 20 Bucks. Take your time and pay attention.

I have desktop computer that has a case fan and a power supply fan that run all the time, but when I removed cover INSIDE processor fan does not run is there any SOFTWARE or other way of TESTING if fan is still good or is it not running because it is not hot enough?

  John
Whatever you do , don't attempt to run the processor with the fan taken out.
Those millions of transistors heat up in a second and with fan and heatsink off
the processor will burn. The AMD processors don't have the fast reacting
sensors as do Intel which will shut the processor down.. It will help if you
indicate the type of processor. I suggest that you just get another fan ,which
in most cases comes with the heatsink. May be it's a  CPU sensor problem .
If you have a multitester you can check it for DC voltages .I only have a 534 mhz celeron which is running at around 40 degrees c. I am wondering what the turn on temp of this would have been as new processors run considerable hotter maybe at 40 degrees c. do not need fan?


   JohnYou can find a lot of pretty inexpensive fans out there. I don't know of any software to test fans, but then again I've never really looked. But fans are pretty inexpensive, depending on what you get, so it would probably be best to just BREAK down and get a new fan. QUOTE from: John1397 on January 18, 2009, 07:45:59 AM

I only have a 534 mhz celeron which is running at around 40 degrees c. I am wondering what the turn on temp of this would have been as new processors run considerable hotter maybe at 40 degrees c. do not need fan?


   John

A friend of mine had built my desktop for me a while ago, its an XP MACHINE and it has two disk drives, one was generic (as far as i know) and the other was a sony. the generic one had always been kind of tempermantal and didnt always read a disk, but the sony never  GAVE me any problems.
Somewhat recently, he was showing me something and talking to me and hed unhooked the power to the sony drive and was plugging in back in and misaligned it and itsparked and the computer turned off. It booted up fine but the drive was obviously shot. I bought a new drive and finding ones that were still ide was hard enough lol, and i put it in place of the sony and it didnt open or blink its light.  SO, i SWAPPED the two drives and tried again and it still didnt work. Frustrated, i put everything back- cause atleast the tempermental drive worked part of the time- and now it doesnt open or blink its light either.
The goal of all this mess was to reformat the computer, but since i cant load any of the disks im not really sure what to do and how to fix all of this. help?!Does the rest of your computer seem to work like it is supposed to?is it an ide of a sata drive.  could be the sata or ide controler got a jolt just use the other one. he already said it was an ide system.Another question are there any stst ports on your mobo? Sometimes there might be two of them bottom right side of the mobo.

Sorry for the other remark.well then he shoul try a piggy back cable and MAKE sure its a slave and the other a master. hey its cool Replace the IDE cable.
Hook up only one CD drive.
Use a DIFFERENT Molex power plug for the drive.
If this still does not work borrow a known good PSU of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there.
I would not attempt to salvage either of the optical drives.

And let your friend know that NO PC components should be worked on with the power on or even plugged in...

Since the store is going out of business and you can't RETURN or exchange ANYTHING, is the sale worth it? What if something is defective? Do you still get the manufacturer's warranty and send the product to them?

Just though I'd ask you guys. I need a few things especially a monitor which sounds like it could be risky. But smaller cheaper items seem OK to me.ask to read the warranty condition of the item you intend to buy. often most of the time you deal with the company direct as the customer you just require your recipt proof of purchase.NO!!!! They are currently only giving 10% original price on almost everything.  The sale prices they had last WEEK where alot better than what they are OFFERING at this time.I don't really know but i will go to the local store and check it outIfy ou find a better price at Circuit City than another comparable store, I WOULD buy it.  Just don't bother with the store's extended warranty, if offered.  The manufacturer will honor their warranty and many offer extended warranties themselves.I went to best buy and circuit city yesterday (01-18-09),  to get thermal compound.  Normally I would just order from New Egg and wait, but I was pressed for time.  Most items in the store (Circuit City) were only marked down about 10% to 30% and the prices were still to high.  It was a complete waste of time.

Hi. This past week I decided to upgrade my video card mainly for playing World of Warcraft. So I bought the ATI Radeon 4850 and upgraded my power supply at the same time with a 650 watt. So after installing and getting the latest drivers I was less then impressed with the cards performance. So I then decided to return it and buy a Nvidia GeForce 9800 GT. And once again after installing and updating to the latest drivers the card did not PERFORM nearly to the level that it should have. Even with the video options being turned down the game had low fps and was down right choppy in some areas. I'm not sure what my problem is and any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is my system information when I still had my original GeForce 8500 GT cards installed
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=485746

And if ANYONE can explain why my buddy's system listed below runs WoW so much better then mine when I had two different video cards installed that were suppose to be more powerful then his.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=487580

Thank you in advance to anyone who can help me out with this. mabye wow doesnt like the version of drivers or something. shoulda kept the 4850I would have been HAPPY to keep the 4850 but it just did not do the job for some reason. sorry sorry. I misread it.  I though you said you where impressed with it.  I am very tiredChances are that it isn't related to drivers... or the video card.. at all.

could be to many other programs running.WOW is an online game, are you sure that you are getting a good connection with the games servers. LAG (which affects frame rate) will be higher if the server you are connecting to is the other side of the world, and no amount of graphics processing power will solve that.

I just purchased a NEW rig and I'm having an issue getting the motherboard to recognize my graphics card. The issue being that I get no video on my monitor when I plug it directly into the card.

My question is, is there something technical here that I'm not seeing? Maybe the PCI-E slot is broken (a way to verify this?)? I'm almost 100% sure that the card is compatible as I have seen various reviews by people using nvidia cards on this board.

Motherboard: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157141
Video card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121268

Note: I know that the card isn't dead as I plugged it in another board and the card worked fine.

I'll ask the OBVIOUS question - did you install the driver?

Did you disable onbaord graphics in the BIOS? To do that you will need to plug your monitor into the onboard video port.This advice is given all the time...however most modern MBoards do this automatically when an addon card is installed.when you go into your bios make sure that the right type of default slot is selected. I just rebuilt a computer for a friend that had onboard graphics. It did have an available agp slot so i put in the card, same problem you had. Went into bios and for some reason the pci slot was selected as the alternate for the onboard video. As SOON as I switched the slot to agp (in my case) it worked just fine also check to see if your video card requires ADDITIONAL power, SOMETIMES there is a plug om the board.

Please help i currently have a laptop and have recently bought the new football manager and it wont run on my laptop as the PROCESSOR is to small.
I have been given a tower computer which is power enough to run the game but i have no monitor so what i was wondering is,is it possible to BUY a lead or do something to enable me to use my laptop as a monitor and keyboard for the computer so i can play the game or will i have to buy a new mo niter etc.
Thanks I am pretty sure you will need to buy a monitor.Monitors are dirt CHEAP second HAND if you look on ebay or trademe (New ZEALAND only)
Sometimes they are listed as faulty - stay away, but you can get a good one with the keywords:
"tested" "can view before buying" "excellent condition" etc for about $5 NZ here (approx $9 US)

Am running WINDOWS XP on a NETWORK with the tally t9114 printer and am receiving teh MESSAGE 'spooling' when accessing the print queue, hence my print jobs are not being completed - any advice to overcome this. I am able to print to other PRINTERS on the network, just having problems printing from the ONE said machine

Is it harmful to unplug a USB device while the computer is running, or to plug one in while computer is running?I guess it depends on the situation,

from my personal experience with these computers is.. if it is a USB device is not tansmitting data back and forth.

Example: printers, scanner.

If you unplug or plug these devices when the computer is on.. all it will do is day NEW device and just reload the driver detail.

However if you are scanning and printing and unplug and keep plugging the devices while they are doing something that might hurt the USB port and the device, because you keep interrupting it.

The most CONSTANT thing that you will notice are Flash/Jump drives. If you keep unplugging and replugging while transfering data it can damage the flash drive.
"Device is not formatted. Do you wish to format now."

When you stop a device you are just telling the computer you are done with it and turn it off.

I have pulled the device without stopping it first...*on a windows 98 PC and I have had no problems with the device as long as I exit all the applications that is using that device and making sure nothing is still running or using it.You don't mention your OS but I'll assume XP probably.

Windows normally ''likes'' you to use "safely remove'' options.  Just for removal - plug in is no prob as it either ID's the device if new or just takes it on board if familar.

As has been mentioned - do not try and remove when a peripheral is in use - PRINTER, flash drive, whatever.  Thing is - if you play safe and use ''safely remove'' it'll say ''no'' if it sees it in use.  That said - now and again it'll say that when it shouldn't!

Thing is - sometimes - a simple removal can leave a drive letter assigned to nothing ... which could be a nuisance.  Mostly tho - flash drives anyways I find - you can remove simply and not have problems to follow.the USB standard is defined as "hot pluggable"- obviously you don't want to mess around with it while it's transferring data and is in use, but physical damage is highly improbable, unlike almost every other connector- where it's unlikely. (VGA, serial ports, parallel ports, etc..)

THANKS for all the QUICK responses, all answers make sense.  More information on why I asked the question. The device I am talking about is "Majicjack" (VOIP) I and my wife use it only for long distance calls, I don't see keeping it plugged all the time if we are not using it for calls. The problem is it won't let me put my computer on hibernate while I am away.
Or there any ways around this??
Thanks all!

Chief95If your not using it, it should be plenty safe to unplug it when not in use.Thanks BC, so it won't hurt anything on my computer if I unplug or plug it in while my computer is running? 
I just want to make sure I UNDERSTAND your answer.

Thank you  sir.

Chief95Use the Safely Remove Hardware tool...that's what it's there for.

I upgraded an old DELL laptop from win ME  to win 2000. Since doing so I can no longer get the parallel port to run my ADC,DA & Digital out interface. I am using qbasic to run my interface. The program itself works as does the interface when tried on other computers running win 3.1 win 95 win 98. I am using the folowing pins on the printer port. 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10,13,14,17. The problem appears to be ECP mode. I have tried different configurations ie DMA and IRQ.  Is there a way of GETTING the printer port to run in SPP mode. Any help appreciated.

This is my first post here- sorry if I'm doing it wrong

I have an HP Pavillion dv6000 laptop. I've had it for about a year, and it seems that every month, the webcam would break more.
I saw that many people were having similar issues, so I tried some of their ideas.
Often, the webcam wouldn't show up as a device, so I installed a different driver, and that worked for a while. Then when that didn't work, I would have to adjust the position of the screen (right by the built in laptop) then the webcam would work, but only in that position. Then it got to a point where I always had to restart for it to show up as a device and work.
But now, no matter what I do, no program will recognize it, and it doesn't come up in device manager.
I tried downloading a new driver, but that didn't work. I think it's a hardware problem, so I posted it here.
Thanks! Any help would be GREATLY appreciated It sounds LIKE the physical connection between the webcam and the COMPUTER is damaged.
Unfortunately we can't really do anything.

If you have had experience opening up laptop screens, I would open it up and see if anything can be done.
If you don't have any experience, don't attempt this or risk damaging the laptop further.

If the laptop is under warranty, you can get it fixed for FREE by the manufacturer.
You can still give it to them if your warranty has expired, but it may cost a lot. Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on December 07, 2008, 12:22:30 AM

It sounds like the physical connection between the webcam and the computer is damaged.
Unfortunately we can't really do anything.

If you have had experience opening up laptop screens, I would open it up and see if anything can be done.
If you don't have any experience, don't attempt this or risk damaging the laptop further.

If the laptop is under warranty, you can get it fixed for free by the manufacturer.
You can still give it to them if your warranty has expired, but it may cost a lot.

I found out that my board allows me to use the front audio.  I removed the jumpers an connected the cable.  Went into the bios an disabled the on board sound.  I get no feed from the front but there is sound going threw my sound card.Well that's you problem isn't it? You just disabled your motherboards sound card. Wont you need the front panel audio connectors to go to your PCI/PCI-E/ISA sound card if it has those capabilities?yes it is my problem.  yes but the mb manual said disable all periphalsSo let me get this strait. You've installed a new sound card and disabled the on-board sound? However you want the font panel audio jacks to function?

If APPLICABLE, Have you connected the front panel to the motherboard or the sound card?
Are you getting any sound out of the sound card itself?

And why do Amazon keep emailing me? I bought like one thing! (Sorry MSN pop up during TYPING)old but yes I put the sound card back in. yes.  no, not sure COULDNT say at the moment.  yes, its one of those things so your tempted to keep buing from there.Does the sound card have headers for the front panel ? ?
If so hook those up.

Onboard sound = Disabled------------------connection to front header = Disabled
Sound card = Enabled-----------------------connection to front header = EnabledI SEE so it was if you had wanted thanks patio.  So If I reinable it, it should work okay.  I'll have to check the sound card however.  So I'll PROBABLY put the jumpers back then.

A friend of mine with a Dell Inspiron 6400 RUNNING on xp has a problem with her WLAN. Whenever she connects her laptop wirelessly, the signal strength is great. As she uses it, the signal strength gets weaker and weaker until she can no longer connect. She then has to bring her laptop closer to her router so she can connect via ethernet cable. This sounds to me like a failing WLAN card. What do you think? A professional that worked on her laptop in New Jersey said it is due to a program that she needs from Dell called Dell Network Assistant. I investigated that software and it seems that all that does is helps you connect to you network.Not sure if this means you have a dying wireless card or not, but there are a few questions I would like to ask.

How far away is the laptop when connected wirelessly and how many walls are between it and the router (and if the walls are plaster or concrete).
When did this problem start?
What is the signal strength when connected?There also could be other Users in her area piggybacking on her signal...
How is her security setup ? ?Ah yes, is the wireless signal encrypted? (Does it need a password?)OK, the network was unsecured and there were several networks in the neighborhood that could have been piggybacking off her network so I secured it. She had a cordless phone next to her laptop so we removed it. The walls are drywall and the laptop is about 50' away from the router.  Not sure if the wireless signal is encrypted but you do need a password. Signal strength RUNS between 24 and 35 Mbps. Her problem was that the strength would GET so low she could not connect. Problem started just before Thanksgiving. Her daughter added SKPE to the laptop and made "some" changes??? She doesn't remember what changes. Before that, the signal would be around 48Mbps consistently.What has me puzzled is she is at full strength at start and it decreases over time if i understand correctly...
Which is starting to sound more like hardware:
Theory 1. As the laptop gets hotter after running and being connected the WLAN card because of thermal expansion it is making a slowly degraded physical connection.
Not sure of a remedy here but i'll give it some thought and do some digging.
Theory 2. The wireless router is experiencing the same thing. For this relocate the router and/or raise it up on something to get some airflow going. Have her turn it off when not in use which may extend the life of the unit.
I know the combo MODEM/routers i used to get under DSL contracts in the past got extremely hot ( the cheap ones ) and this would cause issues but this hasn't happened since i purchased my own unit.

Out of ideas for now ...
Any improvements with the changes you have made yet ? ?I've had similar issues with various computers on my brothers Westell Versalink wireless router/DSL modem/ethernet hub combo, had them with my fathers Westell Versalink also. Not sure why, but a lot of wireless routers randomly overheat, also not sure why certain cards don't like to work with them. I've seen similar problems with a Linksys wireless router/ethernet hub my brother had before he got the Westell.

It seems that all wireless networking hardware I've encountered has issues like this, and frankly, there is no simple fix other than running an ethernet cable. Did that when I lived at my fathers 'cause the wireless had a high latency while gaming and frequently dropped signal. I'm currently on wireless now though, the Netgear router I'm connected too seems fine. Whereas other routers may intermittently drop the signal. For the record, I don't know the model number of ether versalink routers, or the linksys router my bro had. But I do know there both different models, and I'm still encountering high latency. Wireless isn't a gamers friend. Wireless networks seem to be buggy in some cases, in others, there flawless. If your network ends up being the former type, you may go insane before you find hardware that actually works together.She was running on a Netgear router so I installed a Belkin router I had. So, the routers have been physically swapped out. I was wondering the same thing about the physical WLAN circuitry. I think the WLAN is a express card inside the laptop which can be shaken loose. They do move this laptop between rooms but that was only because they had trouble connecting wirelessly. Otherwise, it will stay in their office. This is a cable modem and everything seems to work great via ethernet. I'll check the WLAN card to be sure it's seated properly.I was under the impression it was an external card...
But Best of Luck and check the Laptop manual for screw placements on dissassembling...not for the faint of heart on most laptops.    The WLAN is internal and can be accessed pretty easy by opening a compartment on the bottom. I may have confused you by saying I was going to TRY a PCMIA WLAN card I had to see if I got the same results. Unfortunately, the Inspiron 6400 doesn't accept PCMIA cards only express cards so I couldn't do it. OK.
Then just pay attention to the Best of Luck part of my post... Also, be sure to hook the antenna wires back up in the right order if you remove the card or change it. If you don't, it likely will not work at all. Usually the dells have the Wireless card located under a service panel, like you said, my Inspiron is the same. Though, it has room for two other types of wireless cards, I could install three wireless cards if i wanted too, but that would be near useless for anything other than uber bandwidth leeching.

Alright, I wanted to buy a monitor from newegg. A 22" LCD seemed about right, and I wanted VESA wall mounting.

So, my search brought me to FIND a 22" acer for about 160-170 $.

Here's where the "*censored*" factor comes into play. I found 3 monitors that looked almost identical in design, price, and STATS!

Can anyone explain the difference between these three monitors, and tell me which ONE is the best of the three?

Monitor 1:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009145

Monitor 2:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009138

Monitor 3:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009149


I appreciate all the help you can give me, I'm ordering this tonight, and if I don't find out SOON, I will be forced to resort to measures as  drastic as "eeny meeny miney mo!"

All help appreciated,
Image.The differences seem fairly subtle.

Acer's V series is "Value," while X series is "eXcel".

The first one has a Kensington lock: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kensington_Security_Slot

The second one does not.

The third one has a Kensington lock and built in speakers.The first one is cheaper and seems to have more reviews than the others.
Might want to read few a few of the reviews to see what other customers think of them.

What does the 75 mean at the END of 32X72-75 pc133 SDRAM

It's located here:

http://www.starmicro.net/detail.aspx?ID=295

I need a stick that is 32x72 will the advertised ram on the website work?Honestly, I'm not sure what the '75' means.

Just GO to http://www.crucial.com and SELECT your system or motherboard there.  Let it make the determination as to what RAM you need.

I have a Psion 3a (I know, welcome to the 21st century!) and I can't print out from it unless the printer can accept the 36-pin parallel interface link. like my now defunct HP deskjet 3820 did? Trouble is all my accounts are on the Psion...aargh!I don't know whether printers that work with parallel PORTS are still available on the market, so another option, if you have an available PCI slot in your computer, is to add USB CAPABILITY by installing a USB PCI card, such as:
SYBA PCI USB 2.0 4+1 shared port controller card.  The cost is low.Thanks, soybean, but the Psion is a palm top, now obsolete, and there's no chance of adding anything to it!,Does it have an infrared port ? ?
If so this may be an option...Thanks, PATIO. Sadly not.....Yikes!  That IS old!

Longshot, but...any network capability?  If so, print via network connection.

Otherwise, your best bet would be to look on eBay for an identical printer...

I've been using computers since you had to format each 5 INCH disc to use on a DOS 8088 system when a monitor upgrade was to one with orange letters on a black screen.  I guess that makes me OLD.

Currently I have a Dell PC about five years old showing signs of age and a Dell laptop about a year old.

Recently I had the opportunity to use a friend's Mac desktop for some work.  What a delightful experience from the IBM PC platform and all its progeny.


That experience has me CONSIDERING whether or not to replace my PC with a Mac and give my Dell laptop to a deserving person and get a MacBook.

Opinons pro and con would be appreciated.  Please provide examples and compare and contrast.

Many thanks.

StanleyJ
FYI-

one of my buddies got an imac 20" screen a year or so ago...it's great and with bootcamp he can also run his wxp on it...so you can have the best of both worlds...

myself...I just run one of the hacked up versions on my intel, have it dual booted with vista

at least his is legal...!!!A Mac is a good computer, so is a PC. Don't let the "I'm a Mac; I'm a PC" commercials fool you. They both have their pros and cons, both are extremely stable and useful. The difference is the price, not the usability or power. With a Mac, you're going to pay an extra $300-$800 premium. It's up to you to decide if you liked the Mac enough to pay the premium.
Personally, I would recommend getting a new PC with Vista on it. Most of the poor reviews on Vista are from people that haven't used it extensively or who STILL need to get over their grudge against Microsoft. (Just ask on this forum how to turn off UAC ) I have been using Vista for about a year and from an IT perspective, find it very useful and convenient.
I have all pc's my house but also replaced my ding-dong Dell with a Macbook and couldn't be happier.  No spyware or viruses to worry about so the system boots a lot faster / lots of freeware (OpenOffice for one) that are cross-platform AVAILABLE.  Just a nicer computer. Yes, you will pay more and it's somewhat of a learning curve but IMHO in the long run it's worth it.
Alan <><  AHAA ! !
So that's where you've been hanging out...in a MAC Forum ! !

            well, personally , i think that macs are great for designing work, as i do design technology at school. the bad thing about it is that not much games are up for it. what i mean is that there are a very limited list of games for macs and if there is a game you want to install, it takes much more space than a regular windows computer. this is what i think. thanks for listening!Modern macs can run Windows in a separate partition via Boot Camp.

Of course the drawback is that Macs are more expensive for inferior hardware...

i was playing combat arms trying to glitch (pressing print screen a bunch of times) and all of the sudden it said LOST connection or something like that and it closed and said preparing to standby then all my fans turned off and it all turned off (i may have pressed the standby ket while pressing prnt screen very fast  i DONT know) then it turned back on and my moniter light went orange and i kept pressing the moniter on button and stuff but nothing sp i pressed the reset button and it turnded on (this happened once before awhile back but i wasnt playing combat arms when it happened)
well when it turnded on i got a bsod- page fault in nonpaged area
the stop CODE is - STOP: 0x00000050 (0xE4901000, 0x00000000, 0x8A25c798, 0x00000001)
i have got this bsod 3 times including this one i think all of them on startup i think 1 awhile ago another like 2 days ago and the 3rd today
any ideaS?Excellent punctuation ! !I was thinking the same thing Patio, though, I helped a bit with this issue through AIM (using pidgin, I despise AIM). DUNNO if it'll fix it though, the only guaranteed fix for that is a re-installation of windows.Oh well i'm in a good mood:
Quote

0x00000050: PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
(Click to consult the online MSDN article.)
Requested data was not in memory. An invalid system memory address was referenced. Defective memory (including main memory, L2 RAM cache, video RAM) or incompatible software (including remote control and antivirus software) might cause this Stop message, as may other hardware problems (e.g., incorrect SCSI termination or a flawed PCI card).

All my files that I have saved to a external hard drive work with this program

when at your brothers system, attach your external hard drive and create a folder(CD1/whatever)...copy the contents of the CD to the folder(don't forget to enable hidden files first)....take the external hard drive to your mothers system and you should be able to get your program that you copied to the folder on the external hard drive...!!!

good luck

This has less chance of working than 3 cops at a Donut shop

Quote from: fgdn17 on November 30, 2008, 02:04:34 PM

when at your brothers system, attach your external hard drive and create a folder(CD1/whatever)...copy the contents of the CD to the folder(don't forget to enable hidden files first)....take the external hard drive to your mothers system and you should be able to get your program that you copied to the folder on the external hard drive...!!!

good luck

This has less chance of working than 3 cops at a Donut shop...you cannot simply copy a program from one drive/machine to another and expect it to work.
Please think before hitting the Post button.

Please think before hitting the Post button.

 

Copying IS different FROM Installing..............


LOLZ........

fgdn17, please drop this stupid argument.

I just got done building a gaming computer specs are:

800W PSU
EVGA nForce 780i SLI mobo
2 DVD burners
1 250 GB harddrive SATA
4GB RAM
2 nVidia Geforce 9800 GT in SLI
it has a crappy Pentium D 820 that I plan to over clock (low on funds)

I did not install a floppy drive because I dont need one, however. I tried installing Windows XP professional but for some reason it does not boot off the CD. I have changed in the BIOS as primary boot device but nothing. In this mobo I can boot from an USB drive, but I dont know how to get it to boot that way.

I have the 6 floppies that would be used to boot windows to install... is there a way I could convert those or somehow put them in the USB drive? is there a special program that Will do this for me?  I have been searching but none of them explain what I need to know...

Any replies highly appreciatedSounds like an "ahem" version of XP as all the XP CD's are bootable...
Unless you didn't make the correct changes in the BIOS or forgot to press F10 afterwards to "save changes and exit" i think i'll stay away from this one...I agree with Patio, the only versions of XP I've seen that don't boot are bootlegged versions. Is the windows XP CD you have 100% legitimate? If not, I too will stay away from this topic.

EDIT:

Nice SETUP though, but man, I highly doubt 800W is going to be enough to run two 9800's, I'll need 750 just to run my setup with one 8800GS 384MB GPU.Yes it is legitimate.  I bought it at Frys electronics. It was sealed.. I dont know if my dvd burners suck or im doing something wrong in the BIOS. I dont deal with "bootlegged" software. So what do I do? I cant return the dvd burners cause I dont have the receipts or boxes anymore, I doubt I can even return the windows cd. Im stuckIn that case since we know you're legit ( although not really but i'll give you the benefit of the doubt here ) un hook one of the optical drives...you can just remove the IDE cable and/or the power cable whichever is easiest.
Next boot see which one lights up...that's the one you want the XP CD in.

Re-boot and you should be on your way... Quote from: CyberHawk on December 05, 2008, 02:10:36 PM

I just got done building a gaming computer specs are:

800W PSU
EVGA nForce 780i SLI mobo
2 DVD burners
1 250 GB harddrive SATA
4GB RAM
2 nVidia Geforce 9800 GT in SLI
it has a crappy Pentium D 820 that I plan to over clock (low on funds)

I did not install a floppy drive because I dont need one, however. I tried installing Windows XP professional but for some reason it does not boot off the CD. I have changed in the BIOS as primary boot device but nothing. In this mobo I can boot from an USB drive, but I dont know how to get it to boot that way.

I have the 6 floppies that would be used to boot windows to install... is there a way I could convert those or somehow put them in the USB drive? is there a special program that Will do this for me?  I have been searching but none of them explain what I need to know...

Any replies highly appreciated

Agree'd BC, as for you Hawk, pull the drives, ensure there jumpers are set accordingly, IE, master to the one with the first IDE plug, slave to the one with teh second plug. Assuming there IDE, if there SATA, I dunno.

I am using Windows XP, laptop is ITC:
I am having trouble disabling the mouse on the laptop. I have tried going through the Control Panel. I.e: Control Panel - Mouse - Hardware - Properties, however under the selection for the laptop mouse, the disable property is not highlighted. It is highlighted for the external USB mouse which I can disable, just not the laptop mouse. Any suggestions, most appreciated!!! Disable USB mouse....why not unplug it?CARBON, I think you've got the wrong end of the stick.
What gjohnston is saying is that they can only disable the USB mouse, not the laptop's touchpad, I think.
gjohnston, that's not a good way to disable the laptop pad anyway, because you MAY well need to USE it some day.  Look for any options under Control Panel/Mouse or Synaptics that let you disable the mouse.  Unfortunately this feature is not available on all laptops.
If you can't FIND it, please post the full make/model number of the laptop and we'll try and help you find out how to do it.

Welcome to the forums.The OP will need to download the Synaptics (or whatever manufacturer) touchpad utility from his laptop manufactuer's website.  From there, open the utility and find an option that says something LIKE "Disable touchpad when USB mouse is plugged in."

Alternatively, there might be something like that in the BIOS.

Thinking of getting rid of these dumb cords.  Suggestions on whether to go with what's called bluetooth, or other please.Cordless keyboards and mouse?

Wireless keyboard and wireless mouse, my friend.OK ? ? ?No experience with bluetooth myself; I prefer the wireless hardware that uses Radio/WIFI.

Bluetooth is short range, maybe 10 15 FEET; WiFi has a much longer range.

my wireless keyboard (bluetooth) 5-10 feet maybe before it stops working. Wireless gamepad (uses radio) I can use all across the house without PROBLEMS; I can't see the screen most of the time, but at LEAST I know I can crank the music on a game, go downstairs, and say "does anybody hear that?"

"hear what?"

PUSHES button, Super mario world music plays at over 150 decibels.

Last night, while VISITING the Amazing Race CBS site, my flat screen MONITOR went dark.  I can STILL make out what is on the screen...barely... but it's not usable.  When I restarted my computer the monitor was bright for about 2 minutes then went dark again.  I ran a virus scan to no avail.  I tried turning off the monitor and turning it back on helped a few times, but now it stays dark (even after leaving the computer off all night and trying to just turn on the monitor without the computer- I can just make out the no signal detected notice).  Do I need a new monitor, video card, anti-virus software?

 sounds more like a problem with the monitor. If possible, try in on a different machine (or connect it to a LAPTOP or something). If the problem persists, then it sounds like the LCD backlight is shot.Had this happen several months ago, it was the back light inside the monitor  (HP).  I understand they can be repaired but with some difficulty, is cheaper to buy a new monitor.

I bought new monitor (HP), not as nice as the old one though.

It was suggested that a solder point had loosened.  The monitor would  come on, but as it warmed up I'd lose the backlight.   Kept the old monitor, one day I'll tear it apart and look for that cold solder point.

Probably cheaper still to GET a bundle package, as monitors alone are not cheap.

I had to somewhat fix one on my really old thinkpad; it was easier to fix, since it's backlight snapped on, and I could remove it easily (it was designed for overhead projectors)

NOTHING happens. Any suggestions?Disconnect everything except the video card,CPU and fan, one stick of RAM, the mouse and keyboard and the monitor.
Anything now ?I dont have any extras connected.. still nothing, CPU???I have a similar problem with my 4 year old emachine.It was getting weird slow so I upgraded to the newer firefox and it seemed fast.So then I downloaded a free microsoft antivirus and the next morning It would not power up.I am getting a green led on mother board and no other signs of life.HELP!!It is an emachines with windows xp .WELL it could be either the CPU or the board...unfortunately other than a shop there is no easy way to find this out without both another similar board and CPU.Would the LED light still light up, if the motherboard didnt work? The processor is a Celeron D.. 4 years old.. i think it was toast.. do you think i could find another Celeron D.. i dont know the spec to the mother board so i can find out what it supports.....Yes.
An LED needs very little power to glow green and is no INDICATOR of either the MBoard's or the CPU's relative health...hmmm well should i just get a Celeron D processor.. they should be cheap now.. try it.. and if it doenst work.. well its the mother board.. and where can i find THAT replacement....Personally i would start putting together a wish list and start saving up to BUILD a new system...
Since you aren't replacing everything you could probably do it pretty reasonably.
Decide on a budget and go from there...

BTW Good Luck in the Rose Bowl !Rose Bowl? I never watch that.. I don't watch college sports.. Why is Patriot a team name?

So just save up for a new system??? And how can i get my old information and PROGRAMS back from the other computer.. like programs we bought?The programs you bought should be on the CDs you installed them with.

As for data on the hard drive, you could do one of two things:

1) Once you get the new computer, physically remove the old hard drive from the old computer and install it in the new one.  Copy data from old drive to new drive.

2) Remove old drive from old computer and put it in one of these doohickeys:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817145656

Plug power in, connect USB cable to new computer, and voila!

How can I check it on my PC? Do I need to manually open my system and check inside? I GET lost in there, I had the hardest time INSTALLING my DVD drive in my machine.Download, and INSTALL Everest: http://www.majorgeeks.com/download4181.html
Thanks.Sure thing

I am going to get a HP Deskjet F4280 All-in-One Printer, my current one died.  Does anyone else has this All-In-One Printer and how is it working for them? Is the setup and installing the software EASY or hard and are they having trouble with it or is things going great with itI ACTUALLY just got a HP Deskjet F2000 a few days ago for my room. Works perfectly.

Installation is pretty much the same as any other printer.

Do you have ANYTHING in mind?

Hi, I'm new here and this new error is the last straw. I apologise in advance; this is the first time I've posted on a forum.

I have a second hand computer (no-discs)
Running Windows XP Home Edition 2002 SP3
System: Intel Celeron CPU 2.53GHz
504MB of RAM
Intel(R) 82865G Graphics Controller - Driver v:6.14.10.4396
C-Media AC97 Audio Device - Driver v:5.12.1.49

Trying to play an MMO game, Wurm Online. Had to turn all SETTINGS to minimal to get the game to function at all, and now I get a few minutes of play before the game freezes, followed by the monitor turning off, and resetting to a tiny desktop with psychedelic minimal colour settings and an error message.

error message: "The ialmrnt5 display driver has stopped working normally. Save your work and reboot the system to restore full display functionality. The next time you reboot the machine a dialog will be displayed giving you a chance to upload data about this failure to Microsoft"

I can't close the game down without seizing up the computer, or shut down the computer whilst ignoring the game. I've had to hard-reset the computer each time. A dialog box has never been displayed.

I'm the first to admit that my computer has too many faults, there are many programs that won't run properly, fail to install or crash, but this is the only time I've had this error.

I've tried surfing FORUMS, checked my graphics driver version and drawn a blank. I haven't found any game-specific help or generic fixes that apply.

Please can you help ? I'm desperately in need of some 'hope'. well firstly your RAM isnt high enough for the required settings. to play a MMO you generally need to exceed the recommended settings. as for your video card, yours i dont think exceeds the required aswell but im not SURE as its seems like you video card is quite outdated.

the only solution i can think of is upgrading you computer it wont cost too much and you will see a major improvementI agree with mann, upgrage to atleast 1 gig ram two if you can and change out the video card if your going with invidia go with a minimum of a 6600gt depending on what type of interface you have. If it is a pci-e 16x an 8800gtx+ would be a GREAT choice if you like ati a hd 4850 would be a great choice. see what type of video interface you have ie... pci, agp or pci-e 16x and get the best card available that will work with your operationg system and interface.

I've had my notbook computer for a year. Over the last couple of days i SOMETIMES have to press the F key more to get it to type. I was wondering if it needs cleaning or if it could be damagedi've hoovered the keys and i think its working a cheap solution is just to add a external keyboard. for about $10.00 it MIGHT save you ALOT of frustration.

Quote

I can play GAMES that require disks btw so I dont think its going bad.

Burn LASER shot...

teeny weeny

how small is it?

Quote from: Kurtiskain on February 19, 2009, 11:30:11 PM

.....wow. dude u gotta make your own "big red button" cartoon

Just order a new monitor from Squall...

Quote from: Kurtiskain on February 19, 2009, 11:30:11 PM

.....wow. dude u gotta make your own "big red button" cartoon

well.... I already have a three part trilogy Flash cartoon... Hmm, about time I  uploaded it...

part 1:

http://www.swfcabin.com/open/1235147321




Oh dear! I do apologize for hijacking your thread somewhat kurtiskain, I hope you will forgive me


EDIT:Also... I'm watching it again myself. *censored* I was retarded  when I made this... LOL

Hello all,

I have a mysterious problem dealing with starting up my computer.
I will try to detail everything I have done.

The computer I have is a
Compaq Presario V5000T LAPTOP.
It was running service pack 3, XP home, and 2GB ram.
Everything else on it was factory.

The ram was recently installed, factory ram was 512MB. (About a month ago- upgraded to 2 GB)
Also, the AC Adapter wire was torn a few months ago, and was replaced 2 months ago, but not with a compaq standard adapter. (I bought a generic one with the same specs.)

The laptop has been running fine for the last 2 months, and had no issues with anything. But YESTERDAY, as I was browsing the internet, the computer suddenly turns off.  (The battery and ac adapter were both plugged in.)
I though the ac adpter may have gotten loose, so I replugged it in, and then tried TURNING it on. This did not work. I was late for class, so I took off without testing it further.


I came back about 8 hours later, and tried to turn it on again. (Battery and AC adapter both in)
It turned on, and I was able to use the computer for about 15 minutes. When all of a sudden, the computer turned off again, with no warning.

However, this time, when I attempted to turn it on, it fails. I hear the CD drive running, but nothing else happens. The screen remains dark, and the other major sign is the the Power button (IO) constantly blinks orange. The LCD light on the panel also blinks (IO) in the same fashion.

I have tried many things, such as unplugging the battery and adapter, and holding the power button to drain the power for 60 seconds. Then plugging the adpater ONLY in, and trying to turn on with just that. Whether it's just the adpater, or just the battery, or a combination after resetting, draining, nothing works. It just constantly blinks.

I have reseated the ram, and replaced it with the factory ones. Still nothing.

The adapter works, seeing as I tried it on THE SAME EXACT model computer and it powers that one up. (I have also been using it for 2 months)

I am open for any suggestions, and further questions. I have no idea where the problem could be. If you need more info, please let me know. Thanks in advance for taking time to read this.
High i'm a student at a high school computer help desk and i've seen something that might be your problem.

1.your hardrive might be faulty and cuasing the problem-try getting someones elses COMPATIBLE hardrive and installing it to see if thats the problem

2. I've also had to replace a couple of AC/DC power CONVERTERS for some computers with those symptoms but that shouldn't be a problem for battery power on a laptop

3 The final cuase i have seen is a bad mother boardThanks Eledel for the response.

I took out the hard drive, and tried to boot without one, but it still presents the same problem. Once I get my hands on a compatible one, I'll put it in, and see if the same problem occurs.

I'm not sure whether the converter is the problem. If so, I have no idea how to check, or repair it. Hopefully it's the hard drive.

As for the mother board, I'm guessing it would be a lot cheaper and easier to just purchase a new laptop. My computer isn't worth a lot, but I am pretty tight on money at the moment.

Thanks for the response, I'll see if the problem is the hard drive, and re-post here.

Is there anyone else with this problem? How did you go about dealing with it?

I was playing a game as usual on my pc when it suddenly hang up and I had to reset. on restart, a message appeared that said(not quite sure about the exact text but it was something like this) :

 'NVRAM error, check settings'
 'press F1 to change settings'
 'press F2 to reset  default settings'

so I went into BIOS setup and thought it might have to do with booting sequence . so I changed the first boot from Flobby to HDD and the second to the DVDRW then restarted. This time the PC hung up once it logged into windows and restarted itself again DISPLAYING the same error. So i changed the boot seq again to 1-DVDRW followed by 2-HDD . That didnt help either as the pc also hung up n restarted upon entering windows xp.

In the third boot I pressed F2 to reset to default settings which actually worked( no hang up on xp startup) and the pc is running fine now although there is a 3-4 seconds delay befor it reaches xp . The delay is right between checking the DVDRW and displaying windows xp loading screen. The PC shows a FLASHING dash for 3-4 seconds then it moves to the loading screen.

So what could have caused this? and should i do to remove the delay?..


Motherbrd :  ASUSTeK P5K SE Intel P35.

Processor :  Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E6550 2.33GHz.

Graphics  :  NVIDIA GeForce 8600 GT 256 MB GDDR3.

Memory    :  kingmax Semiconductor 2 GB DDR2-SDRAM PC5300 .

Storage   :  WDC SATA-II 80 VBB
             WDC IDE 80 GB

OS        :  XP SP3

Thanks

Unplug everything from your computer, but keyboard, and a mouse.
Restart. Same thing?

Hi all,

I'm new here but i think you guys can help me.
I recently bought a new Computer and installed a game on it.
The game loads but when i start the mission it freezes my CPU. as in hard freeze (nothing responds)

i've read a few threads so i have the hijackthis log for you.
Maybe you can take a look...

Any other suggestions will also be welcome

Logfile of Trend Micro HijackThis v2.0.2
Scan saved at 04:22:24, on 18/02/2009
Platform: Windows Vista SP1 (WinNT 6.00.1905)
MSIE: Internet Explorer v7.00 (7.00.6001.18000)
Boot MODE: Normal

Running processes:
C:\Program Files\ASUS\GamerOSD\ATKFastUserSwitching.exe
C:\Windows\system32\taskeng.exe
C:\Windows\system32\Dwm.exe
C:\Windows\Explorer.EXE
C:\Program Files\Common Files\Symantec Shared\ccSvcHst.exe
C:\Program Files\Windows Sidebar\sidebar.exe
C:\Program Files\Windows Sidebar\sidebar.exe
C:\Program Files\Internet Explorer\ieuser.exe
C:\Program Files\Internet Explorer\iexplore.exe
C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Toolbar\wltuser.exe
C:\Program Files\Windows Media Player\wmpnscfg.exe
C:\Windows\system32\SearchFilterHost.exe
C:\Program Files\Trend Micro\HijackThis\HijackThis.exe

R1 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Search Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54896
R0 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Start Page = http://www.google.nl/
R1 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Default_Page_URL = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=69157
R1 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Default_Search_URL = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54896
R1 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Search Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=54896
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Start Page = http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=69157
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Search,SearchAssistant =
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Search,CustomizeSearch =
R0 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Toolbar,LinksFolderName =
O1 - HOSTS: ::1 localhost
O2 - BHO: AcroIEHelperStub - {18DF081C-E8AD-4283-A596-FA578C2EBDC3} - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Adobe\Acrobat\ActiveX\AcroIEHelperShim.dll
O2 - BHO: (no name) - {5C255C8A-E604-49b4-9D64-90988571CECB} - (no file)
O2 - BHO: NCO 2.0 IE BHO - {602ADB0E-4AFF-4217-8AA1-95DAC4DFA408} - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Symantec Shared\coShared\Browser\2.5\coIEPlg.dll
O2 - BHO: Symantec Intrusion Prevention - {6D53EC84-6AAE-4787-AEEE-F4628F01010C} - C:\PROGRA~1\COMMON~1\SYMANT~1\IDS\IPSBHO.dll
O2 - BHO: Search Helper - {6EBF7485-159F-4bff-A14F-B9E3AAC4465B} - C:\Program Files\Microsoft\Search Enhancement Pack\Search Helper\SearchHelper.dll
O2 - BHO: Windows Live Aanmelden - Help - {9030D464-4C02-4ABF-8ECC-5164760863C6} - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Windows Live\WindowsLiveLogin.dll
O2 - BHO: Windows Live Toolbar Helper - {E15A8DC0-8516-42A1-81EA-DC94EC1ACF10} - C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Toolbar\wltcore.dll
O3 - Toolbar: Show Norton Toolbar - {7FEBEFE3-6B19-4349-98D2-FFB09D4B49CA} - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Symantec Shared\coShared\Browser\2.5\CoIEPlg.dll
O3 - Toolbar: &Windows Live Toolbar - {21FA44EF-376D-4D53-9B0F-8A89D3229068} - C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Toolbar\wltcore.dll
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [Windows Defender] %ProgramFiles%\Windows Defender\MSASCui.exe -hide
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [ccApp] "C:\Program Files\Common Files\Symantec Shared\ccApp.exe"
O4 - HKCU\..\Run: [Sidebar] C:\Program Files\Windows Sidebar\sidebar.exe /autoRun
O4 - HKUS\S-1-5-19\..\Run: [Sidebar] %ProgramFiles%\Windows Sidebar\Sidebar.exe /detectMem (User 'LOCAL SERVICE')
O4 - HKUS\S-1-5-19\..\Run: [WindowsWelcomeCenter] rundll32.exe oobefldr.dll,ShowWelcomeCenter (User 'LOCAL SERVICE')
O4 - HKUS\S-1-5-20\..\Run: [Sidebar] %ProgramFiles%\Windows Sidebar\Sidebar.exe /detectMem (User 'NETWORK SERVICE')
O4 - HKUS\S-1-5-18\..\Run: [MsnMsgr] "C:\Program Files\MSN Messenger\MsnMsgr.Exe" /background (User 'SYSTEEM')
O4 - HKUS\.DEFAULT\..\Run: [MsnMsgr] "C:\Program Files\MSN Messenger\MsnMsgr.Exe" /background (User 'Default user')
O8 - Extra context menu item: E&xporteren naar Microsoft Excel - res://C:\PROGRA~1\MICROS~2\Office12\EXCEL.EXE/3000
O9 - Extra button: Research - {92780B25-18CC-41C8-B9BE-3C9C571A8263} - C:\PROGRA~1\MICROS~2\Office12\REFIEBAR.DLL
O13 - Gopher Prefix:
O16 - DPF: {D27CDB6E-AE6D-11CF-96B8-444553540000} (Shockwave Flash Object) - http://fpdownload2.macromedia.com/get/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab
O23 - Service: Ati External Event Utility - ATI Technologies Inc. - C:\Windows\system32\Ati2evxx.exe
O23 - Service: ATK Fast User Switch Service (ATKFUSService) - ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. - C:\Windows\system32\ATKFUSService.exe
O23 - Service: Planner voor Automatische LiveUpdate (Automatic LiveUpdate Scheduler) - Symantec Corporation - C:\Program Files\Symantec\LiveUpdate\AluSchedulerSvc.exe
O23 - Service: Symantec Event Manager (ccEvtMgr) - Symantec Corporation - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Symantec Shared\ccSvcHst.exe
O23 - Service: Symantec Settings Manager (ccSetMgr) - Symantec Corporation - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Symantec Shared\ccSvcHst.exe
O23 - Service: Symantec Lic NetConnect service (CLTNetCnService) - Symantec Corporation - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Symantec Shared\ccSvcHst.exe
O23 - Service: COM Host (comHost) - Symantec Corporation - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Symantec Shared\VAScanner\comHost.exe
O23 - Service: InstallDriver Table Manager (IDriverT) - Macrovision Corporation - C:\Program Files\Common Files\InstallShield\Driver\11\Intel 32\IDriverT.exe
O23 - Service: LiveUpdate - Symantec Corporation - C:\Program Files\Symantec\LiveUpdate\LuComServer_3_4.EXE
O23 - Service: LiveUpdate Notice - Symantec Corporation - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Symantec Shared\ccSvcHst.exe
O23 - Service: NBService - Nero AG - C:\Program Files\Nero\Nero 7\Nero BackItUp\NBService.exe
O23 - Service: NMIndexingService - Nero AG - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Ahead\Lib\NMIndexingService.exe
O23 - Service: NVIDIA Display Driver Service (nvsvc) - NVIDIA Corporation - C:\Windows\system32\nvvsvc.exe
O23 - Service: Symantec Core LC - Unknown owner - C:\PROGRA~1\COMMON~1\SYMANT~1\CCPD-LC\symlcsvc.exe

--
End of file - 5964 bytes
The log is clean.

Please, POST some computer info:
- processor type, amount of RAM (hold Windows logo key, hit Pause/Break key)
- hard drive size/free space (open "My Computer", right click on hard drive letter, click "Properties")In addition to what Broni is asking does your comp meet the requiements to play the game?Yah,

AMD Phenom 9750 Quad core Processor 2.40 GHZ
RAM 3.00 GB
32 Bits OS
2 hard disc
C: 27.0 GB / 58.5 GB available
H: 537 GB / 537 GB AvailableWhat about video card?asus en8500GT 1 GBDo you have any other computer problems, or it's just about this one, particular game?HJT log is complete ? ?
Looks tiny to me ...especially for Vista. Quote from: patio on February 18, 2009, 05:24:25 PM

HJT log is complete ? ?
Looks tiny to me ...especially for Vista.

Do you have any other computer problems, or it's just about this one, particular game?

How about getting rid of Norton?

I just purchased my new COMPUTER, and just for fun decided to connect my TV as a SECOND MONITOR.  It is a Emerson EWL20S5 B, not sure the specifications on it to be honest.  I've tried 3 different ways: S-video to S-video, DVI to TV's component imput, and S-video to component imput.  The only one that functioned at all was the s-video to s-video.  Is there a reason that neither of the other's are working, or is there something I need to do first in order to get a better picture quality than just a s-video connection?  Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.Welcome Aboard...
We know about the TV but nothing about the PC in question or the VID card.
Post more details and someone will be along shortly...Ah, sorry.  Not used to forums.  My computer has a 2.2GHz processor with a NVIDIA GeForce 9500 GT video card.  Using a 32-bit copy of  Windows Vista

I am replacing my hard DRIVE which is WDC WD2500 BEVS - 22 UST0-(S1). I have placed an order but I want to cancel it if it could be the wrong hard drive. Are there different hard drives of the same specification as above to fit different computers. And just because it is WDC WD2500 BEVS - 22 UST0-(S1) does it mean it will fit my computer or not? THANKS

I  entered WDC WD2500 BEVS - 22 UST0-(S1) into the search box on the website where I ordered the hard drive
and a hard drive came up as this specification. It didn't say if it was for a particular computer. Also I wonder if its an internal hard drive. I don't know if it WOULD fit my laptop.The drive you named is a STATA 2.5 inch drive meant for a laptop. But, and this is important, you have to tell us the exact model of laptop you have. That drive is for newer high performance laptops. If the laptop is under THREE years old, the original drive MAY be under warranty. Did you cheek your documents to see?

Or maybe you just want to backup you stuff with an image. Good idea!Thanks.  Quote

STATA ? ?

I currently have an xfx 8600GT XXX edition.
I'm looking for a graphics upgrade but I thought i could save money by getting another one.

The XXX edition seems to have been discontinued, so I have no way of getting the exact same card (unless someone could find it!)
I read somewhere that only the unit has to be the same (eg. 8600GT) but I'm wondering if it's worth getting a 8600GT to run with the XXX edition as it may run slower? and is it compatible? is it easier to just get a new card?
My motherboard (ASUS M2N32-SLI DELUXE) is full SLI 32x compatible so could £130 for 2 cards in SLi be faster than one card for £130? (just as an example)


This is to go with an AMD Phenom II 940 with 4GB 800MHz RAM.The card only has to be the same model - any 8600GT will be fine, but the clock speeds and memory amount of the slowest/lowest card will be used for both.
8600GT cards in SLI generally aren't worth it, but if you already have one and pick another up very cheaply (£30-40 or so) it might be worth it.
If you want a better performance boost a new card is a better option though.Although 8600gt's scale pretty well in SLI, I don't really think it would be worth it.  Even a single 8800gt (9800gt rather as they're easier to purchase) is likely to outperform those cards in sli.  If you're concerned about the speeds, have you considered overclocking? It might be a bit of work/hassle for you but it can help with the bottleneck.

The interesting thing is typing xfx 8600gt xxx edition on google the prices were still about $100. FOr that price you can upgrade to a 9800gt.
so could getting a 8600gt (normal version) and then overclocking the slower one to the XXX speeds work?
the 8600gt is rising in price because it's dying out but i'm not sure its still better to run sli or upgrade.
if i don't upgrade my current processor (4800+ overclocked to 5.5GHz) could it be bottlenecked from the CPU?

I'm guessing i would need to get one with the same RAM on it (GDDR3 256MB)
On eBay they're going for about £50 so it might be worth it. Quote from: Blade285 on February 17, 2009, 02:07:24 AM

so could getting a 8600gt (normal version) and then overclocking the slower one to the XXX speeds work?

the 8600gt is rising in price because it's dying out but i'm not sure its still better to run sli or upgrade.

if i don't upgrade my current processor (4800+ overclocked to 5.5GHz) could it be bottlenecked from the CPU?

I'm guessing i would need to get one with the same RAM on it (GDDR3 256MB)

This is quite bizarre. My IX4000 canon printer start banding at consistent intervals down the page, created a large horizontal line of light TONE. After many wasted hours cleaning, purging, replacing the cartridges and finally the print head, there was no improvement. I tried the printer with my old laptop instead, and it printed just fine! I went back to the computer that I had been using the printer with for a long time, and the banding came back.
This week I've bought a brand new high-spec PC, and tried printing using the same USB CABLE and driver, and once more the banding is there. Put it back on the laptop and it prints fine. I can't for the life of me WORK out what is HAPPENING! I'd really, really appreciate any assistance somebody might be able to give, as it's not PRACTICAL for me to print from the laptop.
I also own an canon IP4000 which prints fine from my new computer.

I have (had) an EMACHINE T1842 with XP for a few years now. A few months ago, I powered it down (via windows shutdown) before I went to work, assuming it would be off when I got home. However, when I returned home later the PC was still on and the hard drive light was rapidly flashing and the bumping noises could be heard. I pressed the button to shut it off, waited a few minutes, and restarted it. It did the same thing, so I tried a third time. This time it would not power up at all - no lights, no nothing. The only thing I added to it was 1g of memory several months before this incident. In you guys' oppinion, should I replace (1) the battery $5 (2) the power supply $25, or (3) the MOTHER board $145? Please consider that I am very frugal with my money nowadays.Start with a power supply,but if you think you can get a good one for $25.00 DONT even try.On a scale of 1to10 Emachines are a 1

Hi,

I recently tried to SET up a secondary MONITOR for my pc and gave up as I didn't have a spare d-sub to dvi adapter. Whilst installing the second monitor I moved the input for my PRIMARY monitor to the second dvi output on the back of my pc. After giving up with the idea, I moved my monitor back to the original port but now the computer isn't recognising my original monitor and keeps thinking it is the secondary one as all the drivers for that are installed.

I tried re-installing the drivers for my original monitor but to no avail. Can anyone help me out with this? As you can understand, it's pretty FRUSTRATING having to re-adjust the settings every time I switch the computer on! 

Thanks.Try booting into safe mode / go to Device Manager / remove the monitor drivers / reboot.  Make sure you have your monitor in the connection you want to have as the norm.

Alan <><  Many thanks Alan, that SEEMS to have fixed the problem.

  You are most welcome 

Alan <><

Hi to all,

Any suggestion how i can troubleshoot my PC. whenever i TURN on my PC its always freeze totally from display, keyboard and mouse. but sometimes when i restart maybe 3 to 4 times it can work. Does it boot into safe mode ok? Try it a few times then come back and let us know!!
I already try 3x it didn't freeze in safe mode. When i REBOOT my PC in normal mode also didn't Freeze but whenever i shutdown and unplugged AC. then power on again that's the time i encounter Freezing problem. do i have a problem in HARDWARE(Video card or Memory)?Computer and specs?Processor: AMD PHENOM 9550 Quad core processor 2.20Ghz
Memory: 2046MB
Video card : 512MB
Hard disk: 640GB
Mother board model: GA-MA770-DS3/s3
VGA model: ATI radeon HD3650

I am wanting to view a monitor hooked to another computer that is recieving data.What would be the best way to ACCOMPLISH this?The distance is going to be 250' +-. tcoilfield, This a tremendously great distance. I don't see how you can accomplish it without some hardwire connection such as a CAT cable to ETHERNET cards. Going to COST you a bit of money for a cable that long(if it will even work). Maybe someone else can SUGGEST something else. It is even to far for any through the AIR transmission signals i would think. truenorth

I am trying to resize a wallet size PICTURE after scanning it with my HP OFFICEJET 6310 all-in one. I need to resize it to about an 8x10 size so I can get it printed. I've tried the resizing tool but it just keeps scanning and saving the original size. IrfanView...FREE...and one of the best image editors out there.

Re-size it as needed and SAVE it as a new filename and then print.
You will lose some quality making it larger...