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My monitor standbies everytime I try to play this particular pc games which I just downloaded. The screen turns black and right in the MIDDLE a box, in BIOS-like interface, showing this info before it SHUTS down:

Out of Frequency

HF 56.4 kHz
V 70.0 Hz

Operating Frequency
HF 30-54 Khz
VF 50-120 Hz

Note: there's like a timer at the BOTTOM counting down to zero until it shuts down

Sounds like the games required settings don't agree with the monitor/vid card...
Read the Manual.

On my keyboard, a small button with 1/4 MOON DESIGN SITS between the F12 and Print Screen keys. What is it?Sleep mode...Thank you.   Have a nice nap..... 3 DAYS nap! Holy COW!

My previous submission just cleared the screen, I think it's lost.

CD ROM only reads as CD RAM in computer WINDOW.
CD ROM only reads as CD ROM in computer management.
CD ROM only reads as CD ROM in computer properties.

Autorun does not appear.
Autorun does not work.

Computer window does not recognized any media, it only shows a blank window if you open it. This problem also affects an external Super Multi DRIVE Rewriter, at the same time. This problem also affects another Laptop of a different make, at the same time. Supposedly this is a hardware problem, I don't believe it. I've unninstalled the drivers, and restarted the OPERATING system.  No improvement.  This is a Microsoft Professional SP3 with Windows Live OneCare. Try one of these:
1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically REINSTALLED.
or...
2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
Restart computer.
or...
3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
RIGHT click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...
4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.

Hi. I am new to this site. I need some help in diagnosing my computer problems.
The problem started with the computer SHUTS down on its own while I would be working with it.Screen goes black with screen power indicator light flashing and power button on computer flashing. I would have to unplug the computer it to reset the comput or power button. I would have to wait about an hr before it would fire up and go into the boot mode( when I press the power button the fans will come on " full"l and then go to reboot cycle and I would be up and running. This would happen about once a day. After about two weeks of this, the waiting period before start ups got longer. Now , I go to power up the computer, the fans come on "full" and that is all .... no longer goes into its boot cycle.
I have  opened up the casing and blew out the dust. That's as far as I have gone in doing anything with the system. I have checked and there is power going to the hard drive and DVD drives. Still only get the fans going and nothing else when I press the power button.
Any Suggestions? Can you boot a floppy?
Boot a floppy, remove the loopy and wit.
If it can go twenty minutes or so aster the floppy boot, that would mean it is an OS problem or something near that.
But if it flounders after the floppy boot, you have real hardware ISSUES.
i had a similar problem to this on my old system im not sure if yours will be the same but i hope it helps.
my problem started when i tired to power on my system, it would start and the fan would go on at full rotation, LIKE yours, and then the PC would turn off. my problem was that the heat sink on my processor wasn't working and the fan on the computer was trying to compensate for it. or something like that just open your computer up and see if its working when you turn it on, if not then you will need to replace it Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 14, 2009, 01:07:55 PM

Can you boot a floppy?
Boot a floppy, remove the loopy and wit.
If it can go twenty minutes or so aster the floppy boot, that would mean it is an OS problem or something near that.
But if it flounders after the floppy boot, you have real hardware issues.

I'm having trouble getting a DVD-RW drive installed on my PC. I bought two new SATA hard drives and a DVD-RW LAST night. I installed the first hard-drive and DVD drive last night and installed Windows. No issues at all. This morning, I installed the second hard-drive, which works fine also.

At some point, I lost the functionality of the DVD drive after getting both HDDS working. I tried the DVD drive with every jumper setting on both positions on the cable. Nothing. ANYONE have a clue what I can check next?

Thanks in advance for any help you might have to offer!!im not sure about this, but if you disconnect one of your hard drives the DVD MAY start to work again. it could have something to do with the PSU inside your system not being able supply all of your hard drives and the DVD-RW drive.
what is the wattage on you PSU?Is this an IDE DVD drive ? ?
If so it should be jumpered MASTER and hooked to the end connector of the ribbon cable...

Okay, this installation has gone well. The only problem its not showing up in the TASKBAR and in device MANAGER it says
"this device cannot start. CODE 10"
Any Ideas?What KIND of device are we talking about here?

Hi all New on this forum

Ok i guess i shuld just start explaining with wat i have in this new Tower i constructed a few days ago:

MotherBoard : Gigabyte M61PME-S2

Proc : AMD Athlon X2 5200+ 2.7 GB

HDD: Seagate 120GB SATA II

RAM: DDR2 Kingston 2 Gb (800MHZ)

Windows XP Service Pack 3  (I fixed the sound problem with this)

Well thats the main gist of it till i get more stuff later.... Anyways My prob is this...
On a Voice Chatting Community, in this case Second Life, My friends tell me they have a Problem with me putting it on "hands Free". The Claim they can Hear them selves "loop" back with there voice, almost like if my MICROPHONE was against the speaker.... well it wasnt, i was wearing headphones at the time :S....  Yet when my friends speak to each other, this problem does not occur, its solely when i have it on Hands Free.... Does anyone know of a setting that im Missing
The Mic i have is built-in to a Acteck AW-550 Webcam.

I tried the CHAT room and they said they werent ABLE to help so i came here.... I hope Someone can help because im sure this will affect someone to the point of seeing a Pyschiatrist thinking "they hear voices" =D .... have you tried experimenting with then sensitivity of the microphone?Yes, that's a good point. Fortunately for you, Brenny, this isn't really a hardware problem. What's happening is you are getting audio FEEDBACK. When your friends talk, your speakers play that, but then the microphone picks up what the speakers are playing, so then you're friends hear what they said. Especially if it's a webcam, it is probably right next to the speakers. I suggest that you try ONLY using a headset/headphones as your listening device, making sure you are turning off your speakers.Additionally, some Sound card driver control panels have "feedback cancellation" options- for example my X-Fi control panel has this checkbox in the microphone setup; as does the integrated audio on my laptop.

It won't completely eliminate the problem- but it will make much less noticable.

Okay, I've got a hardware issue with our HP Pavilion a1440n desktop PC with Windows XP Media Center Edition.  For some reason, despite the fact that the SD card reader's properties SAY that it has no problems, I am not able to get the reader to detect any inserted card.  Removing the DRIVER and re-installing it has done nothing, regardless of the way I've done it.  Can anybody help?It may be a SDHC card? because not all card readers can read SDHC cards. check the card first

I have the same problem Sorry, but that's not the case.  I had tested a card that had previously been successfully read by the computer's card reader, and the reader now will not detect it.BUMP

My uncle came over today to check out my problem.  He brought another card reader that in the past he had pulled from a computer that he now no longer has.  When we tested his card reader, I noticed that my SD card could be read in his, but it would not read in mine.  It also appeared that a pin was damaged in my computer's card reader.  I'm going to need to get a replacement part.LOL

So its a card reader problem

LOLYes, most certainly.

And not only that, but I ordered the part from HP.  However, it cost $54, including shipping. Quote from: Ryan on FEBRUARY 11, 2009, 05:55:46 PM

Yes, most certainly.

And not only that, but I ordered the part from HP.  However, it cost $54, including shipping.

So my computer is all fine and great, I turn it off and go to BED. I come home (now) only to find out when I booted it up, the resolution was messed up and way too big. I figured no big deal. I go to change it. But now I find my 1440x900 option isn't even AVAILABLE anymore. I restart to see if that does anything, and nope. Half of my original resolution choices are now missing from the menu and I'm stumped.

The SCREEN is an Acer P221w, and nvidia gtx 260 is the VCARD. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have anything to do with another component.Try reinstalling the graphics drivers and also are you using the windows in-built resolution switcher or the nVidia one? I tried the windows first and when that didn't work, went to the nvidia one, It didn't work either.
I'll try reinstalling drivers.Yeah, reinstalled, got nothing.hmm, is there an option somewhere in the nVidia control panel to restrict widescreen modes?I don't think so. I mean my res is currently SITTING at 1360x768. And theres a few other widescreen modes.Okay then I have no idea sorry :S other then finding monitor driversDid you uninstall current video driver before installing new one?
Also, try to re-seat video card.

So I have a couple of questions about DDR2 RAM.

1. Can you see much of a DIFFERENCE in performance between DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) and DDR2 1066 (PC2 8500)?

2. Which is better to have, more of DDR2 800 RAM or less of DDR2 1066 RAM? Which will show greater performance: 8GB of DDR2 800 or 4GB of DDR2 1066?

By the way, either choice would be PAIRED with an AMD 9950 Quad Core.Depends greatly on the MBoard...i have had both in my new BUILD...
Equal amounts/Faster speed = no noticeable difference
More RAM/same speed = noticeable difference.

The same holds true with the new DDR3 RAM as well.

Summary: More = Better.Adding to the excellent post above:
I doubt you'd see the performance difference between 800MHz and 1066MHz, except in benchmarks.
More RAM at a slower speed will almost ALWAYS be better than less RAM at a slightly faster speed - DDR2-1066 tends to come at a premium price too.
If you're after 8GB of RAM you'll need a 64 bit OS to benefit from it too.
Hope this helps.BTW i have 2G of OCZ 800 with cooler fins available SINCE i just got 4G of 1066 at a closeout price....
If anyone's interested.

i need help determining what the problem is with my TOSHIBA because it was dropped and the hardrive fell out, but i put it back in
and now every time i move it to much it will freeze up and i have to SHUT it downcameronZombie,While unfortunately it does not help to OVERCOME your problem the obvious must be stated. Computers (other than Panasonic Toughbooks) do not take well to severe impact.Obviously some thing is damaged internally. Now as to what it is that is the mystery. Something (if your LUCKY) might just be lose. How deeply you personally might wish to go into the bowels of the beast is a matter for you to decide.Your knowledge and experience should be a part of your decision as to whether you want to go that route.By the way welcome to the CH forums. truenorth

im having a HP d220 MINI tower computer.
i bought a new hitachi HD..and i installed win XP
when i tried booting frm the DISK i get a error message sayin
"media test failure, check cable "

bt when i remove the new hard disk and replace it with the old HD, it works fine..i cant access hitachi web site coz its under construction...what can i do? is there a way how i can get hitachi HD diagnosis program frm smwhr else??

HELLPPPP
thxIt won't boot without an operating system installed to it...
It won't take an OS install unless it's formatted first.

Does the drive SHOW up in the BIOS ? ?yeah i formatted the disk and installed windows on it too
it shows on the BIOS

i tried the following:
i USED my old HD as the slave drive..and when i did that, the computer booted and i was able to acces my new HD..it shows that the HD is working properly too..bt STILL im havng the problam when i use my new HD alone

thnx

I just installed windows ME on an old laptop that was previously running windows XP (but not very well, which is why i switched OS's) but I do not have a built-in svga driver - all i have is the vga 16 colour 800x600 graphics driver. This makes anything almost impossible to do - fonts are almost illegible, most sites with fancy graphics i can't navigate through - can anyone tell me where i can GET a generic svga driver? I spent 4 hours today getting one, and then the instructions said RUN setup.exe - THERE wAS NO SETUP.EXE !!!!!!! I hate driver websites. Can anyone help?

I don't know what graphics card because windows says it is unrecognised and I don't have the manual - but according to a review on this type of laptop it is a S3 Savage4 AGP 4x

Thanks.
Bones.You could get a driver solution by downloading Knoppix to a computer and then burning the ISO to a CD, then boot the laptop off of the Live Linux Knoppix CD and pay attention to the drivers that it mounts and keep a look out for Video. When you see the video driver show up, write it down exact driver displayed in the text. Then when Knoppix is up you can ALSO go to display properties. 99% of the time Knoppix will find a suitable driver and give you 256 colors or more.

Then shutdown the system with Knoppix, pop out the CD and boot to Windows, and go search down that driver that Knoppix used for Windows OS. You should then be all set. You can use www.driverguide.com to download the driver if you cant find it from the oem.

Also I am guessing that you already tried going to the manufacturer of the laptops website and checking out their support to see if they have drivers available for Windows Me?Why on earth, would you go from XP to ME, the worst OS ever?old PC


Win98SE would have been a better choice though....or it may be good enough for Win 2K... Quote from: Broni on February 12, 2009, 04:30:44 PM

...or it may be good enough for Win 2K...

Hello, today i recieved the INTERNAL wifi card listed in the title. When i placed the card into my computer and connected the antennas, PUT it BACK together, and booted up. The system said the card was not compatible and that it was disabled. I do believe that the card is not the RIGHT model and that i need the 2200 version of the card. But before i go ordering that please help.
-thanks in advance
-QuickFix

Hi all, I have an older card i wanted to install, its an AIT radeon x1300 agp. Here is a picture of the exact card i have...
 
i was wondering if you can tell from the pic if it needs a power cable plugged in. it has some PRONGS on it in the CORNER on the right hand side of that pic, but the power cable from the hard drive for example wont fit into it, and when i install it and boot up my pc, the monitor never comes on at all. it looks like the power wire that goes from the power SUPPLY to the floppy drive might fit the input on the card tho, should i just TRY it?I can't say for sure that those pins are a power connection but it seems so.  This may help: http://www.computing.net/answers/hardware/additional-power-connector-on-agp/49655.html

Apparently, some video cards do use that type of power connector, although most used a standard molex connector of the type used for hard drives or a newer 6-pin connector.  Those  types are shown here: http://www.wikihow.com/Connect-a-Video-Card-Power-CableIt's a floppy power connector.
Strange that a card like that needs the extra power though, as it's quite low-end.thanks guys i really appreciate it! i will try to get this going tonight! i tried looking around google but i was getting stumped. again much appreciated!

Okay so i am about (Not really but hopefully this month) will get a new processor ...my pc is not the best so that's why i am going to get it.First of all here are my specs.

Intel Celeron Pentium 4 2,53 ghZ (3,02 ghZ overclocked)
Nvidia 7600 GS (256vram).
2gb ram ddr.
I have SOCKET 775.


Now i need help with this :

Okay so i wanna change the processor with SOMETHING like :

Quote

Procesor Intel Pentium Dual Core E5300 2.60GHz box
Type: Intel Pentium Dual Core
CPU Socket: Socket 775
Processor Frequency (MHz): 2600
Cache L2 (KB): 2048
FSB (MHz): 800

Procesor Intel Core 2 Duo E7400 2.80GHz box
Type: Intel Core 2 Duo
CPU Socket: Socket 775
Processor Frequency (MHz): 2800
Cache L2 (KB): 3072
FSB (MHz): 1066

Man yer quick today Calum...!

1 Procesor Intel Pentium 4 631 3.00GHz tray
Ttype: Intel Pentium
CPU Socket: Socket 775
Processor Frequency (MHz): 3000
Cache L2 (KB): 2048
FSB (MHz): 800

1 Procesor Intel Pentium 4 631 3.00GHz tray
Ttype: Intel Pentium
CPU Socket: Socket 775
Processor Frequency (MHz): 3000
Cache L2 (KB): 2048
FSB (MHz): 800

That means only the chip will be in the box ?

And i will use the same processor cooler i have now m the middle fan with the heatsink ?

if so , will it come with thermal paste ?

Do i need it ?

WIll i need to clean the current heatsink if this one doesn't come with one ?

How EASY would it be to set up a blue tooth mobile (cell) phone hands free kit for my PC as a microphone? I ALREADY have an adapter in mind btw so I'm talking more about the software side of it.bumpBump, I'll stop BUMPING if SOMEONE says they don't know btw. Quote from: Accessless on February 12, 2009, 02:05:09 AM

don't know btw.

Why not just use a microphone ? ?

Hi all
 I have a problem .When I open my PC,I SEE the screen first
"start window Normally , Safe Mode ,Last Know good configuration  and so on.And  then I choose start window Normally then window logo appear about 5 sec and come again the previous screen.I choice again safe mode but it is not ok.I try to REPAIR my window but I cannot change First Boot Drive to Cd drive because I cannot see the bios and cannot enter.
what should I do any more.
I use window Xp Sp2.
256 DDR 400
Intel  Celeron Processor
any advice would be appreciated.

Best regards,
 GreenYou will have to open the  computer, power off,  and unplug both cables from you Hard Disk Drive. Power must be off. Turn on power, you should get a message that lets you get into the BIOS. Make the changes needed. Save, Exit. Power off. put the power and data cables BACK on he drive, close the case. Now power up with the CD in place. Start tapping the space bar until the CD boots. thanks for your advice.
I do as your instruction then I see this screen with this message
" Reboot and select proper Boot Device or Insert Boot Media in Selected Boot Device and press a key..."

I don't see Bios information .

Pls advise me some another instruction.
When your computer is first turned on, before windows starts, you should see a message that says to press a certain key to enter SETUP. It is usually an Fkey or esc or del. Pay attention, as the message may flash very quickly.

Once you get into setup, you want to look for BOOT ORDER or BOOT SEQUENCE or maybe even just BOOT. Set you CD drive as the first boot device and then place the CD in the master CD drive.

Now exit setup and SAVE changes.
When it starts back up, you may see a message that says: Press any key to boot to CD. Just keep tapping the space bar as the computer starts up.Thanks you.Now I see Bios By press F2 and then change first boot drive to Cd drive.
 
I have repaired my window.Way to go

if you are going to try to repair your XP look at this
http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/XPrepairinstall.htm

Hello
i have 2.1 creative speakers so will this sound card work with 2.1 speakers or will i need to get some new amplified ones. ALso can i connect my sony music system to the USB sound card?
Thanksspeakers have nothing to do with sound cards. Yes they will  work  ie...2.1

>  i connect my sony music system to the USB sound card  ,  " DOES YOUR SONY  have usb plug in  ? Quote from: bubuthemonkeyprince on February 10, 2009, 04:42:28 PM

Hello
i have 2.1 creative speakers so will this sound card work with 2.1 speakers or will i need to get some new amplified ones. ALso can i connect my sony music system to the USB sound card?
Thanks

Hi..I have spent countless hours, (im serious) trying to figure this out. I have researched and everything I found
didnt work, or I didnt do it correctly....

My friend has a hp desktop(new) with Vista, they have a new photosmart printer connected via usb.

They have a laptop with XP.  I am unable to set it up so they can print from the laptop.

Now, before the new p/c, they had a p/c with xp, so the printing setup was fine.

But now with the printer connected to a vista OS, its screwed up, or I am for that matter.

The computers are set up with Linksys, as they were before with the previous setup.
and we can connect to the internet just fine.


Would someone kindly go step by step what I need to do to get this thing going.

The laptop prints fine if the usb cable is attached to it, but when I take the usb out
it wont print.

Ive tried changing ports, sharing files, all the tips on google and it still wont freaking work..,

In plain english, what do I need to do to the Desktop and then to the laptop.

Thanks so much, if the laptop was mine, it wouldve been crushed already.....LOL Make sure the printer is shared FIRST by checking out the printer properties.

Next find the IP address of the system with the printer plugged into it via usb. To find your IP address, at Start RUN ENTER CMD then type IPCONFIG...you should see the number like 192.168.1.2 or something like that...if you see a 169.x.x.x number then your dhcp isnt working on your router and you will want to turn DHCP on...If you are getting out to the internet from both of these computers then your DHCP is working or you have static IP addresses entered in the network configuration.

Next from the laptop go to add printer and enter \\IPaddress\sharename and click next or ok, where IPaddress will be a number like 192.168.1.2 or something like that.

Last that could be a problem is if the firewall of either system is blocking the printer. You would need to go into the system security and select firewall, then exceptions, then the checkbox to allow file and print sharing.

If that doesnt do it let us know...Thanks so much, ILL try these suggestions and will let you know if they work.
Thanks  again for your time!I  hope it WORKS!

hello

in my work place i got to use datashow device very often and the process of CHANGING the VGA cable between the computer monitor and the datashow starts to bother me..i have asked around for splitted VGA cable but i cant find any...is there an easy solution to show my computer display screen on both the datashow and the computer monitor in the same timeIf a desktop computer get a video card with Dual-Display option. Otherwise if a laptop that is unable to slow both or desktop you dont WANT to UPGRADE video card, then you will need a video splitter a box that takes in 1 input and outputs multiple outputs. LOTS of computer stores use these for there monitor displays so I system sends its video signal to a box that duplicates the output to liek 8 or more monitors for side by side COMPARISION between models etc.

A Video card with dual-display feature can be purchased for around $100 or so. Not sure on the price of a video splitter box for VGA.

I sued the abbreviation

Quote

I sued the abbreviation

How much was the settlement ? ?

           

Hello,

I think of getting a new computer.

I am searching and found the Dell Studio XPS - (D02SX06)

What does it have? i.a.:
Intel® Core™ i7 Processor 940 (2,93 GHz, 8 MB cache, 4,8 GT/sec.)
8.192 MB 1.067 MHz Tri Channel DDR3 (4 x 1.024, 2 x 2.048)
512 MB ATI® Radeon™ 4850 (brand unknown)
1,2 TB (2 x 640 GB) SATA (7.200 rpm) RAID 0

The price € 1.569,00 (around 2025 US)

Is this a GOOD price and good PC? What are your opinions on Dell PC's?
Or do you guys recommend getting not a Dell and just buy different parts and build the PC my own?

I don't need a MONITOR, keyboard and speakers at the MOMENT. I ALSO do have perfect audio out of my ASUS soundcard. I would build myself. For $2,000 you can build a kicka## rig and not be limited to Dells proprietary B.S. & Suka## customer service. You could also load a clean OS & not be bogged down with junk.any DELL  for  >  (around 2025 US)      is   NO GOOD.   your getting ripped off


just like the other (poster)  said,   especially today and the poor economies  ...build your own,  The Moderators and people here will help you and you will have tons of FUN doing it*  2000  US  dollars will build you a kick *censored*  PC,    i think i built the one in my pic for about  1500  and that was old money and tech Quote

The price € 1.569,00 (around 2025 US)

My Canon printer is producing an overall magenta cast on any photo or illustration that I print. I can only assume that something is causing the magenta CARTRIDGE to operate all the time. But what and why?
I have gone through the printer's cleaning and head alignment several times, but to no avail. The actual print head is around 6 months old, so I don't really think that can be ready for replacement....but who KNOWS? Any advice to help cure this problem would be appreciatedi TOOK out all the other cartridges and just kept  the 32  black.  Change you  printer settings in the control panel

ohhh YEAH,   these  printers  suck too..  I have one almost like yours at work



BUT  >  my  PIXMA MP600   at  home  kicks  *censored*

I have  a GATEWAY 500s O.S, windows XP. when I press the power button I only the orange light comes on, nothing happens after.Care to elaborate a little?

What orange light do you mean? Has it been acting strange before this problem started?
Have you installed any new hardware recently? Hear any 'beeping' from the system? Does it show a boot screen (XP logo and loading bar)?

- Dairymanre~connect all your power cords from the tower to your power strip , then  reset or turn off and then back on your power strip.

  Just what I did when this happened to me at WORK with an old  HP   ...I have other ideas if that does not workProabably a power supply issue.  Happened to me when I put a different psu in a dell.  It didnt seem to like it.you MIGHT be right ,  could be a few THINGS,   I ask the OBVIOUS  first

Hello! Everyone

I have a NETWORK problem with a HP Pavilion dv6000 (Nividia nForce Networking Controller) Running Windows Vista Home Premium. Computers and Laptops on this network ACQUIRE IP address automatyically. I went to device manager the Network drivers are fine. Tried to dissable windows firewall , tried to let windows diagnose and repair still no success. Please help with any idea on this issue.

Thanks!I finaly solved the issue.

Didn't realise that the Local AREA Connections Properties for Windows Vista has TWO TCP, (TCP/Pv6) and (TCP/Pv4). One of them had the IP address assigned manualy and that prevented it from obtaining IP Address automaticaly FOM the DHCP server, so i changed it to obtain IP addresses automatically and reconnected the LAN cable back, that sorted out may issue. I hope this experience can also help someone.
isn't Vista  Great !!!    Good for you figuring it  out*

if the battery on a motherbroad goes dead what happens ?     my PC set for about a year unpluged til i got a new cpu processer  put it in  turn power on hear a beeping sound.  but monitior doesn,t or MOUSE or key is it the battery  doing thisTry replacing the batterythat ain't the battery.  aside from that they should last a good while.  could be a NUMBER of things I would check the cpu or put the ONE back in an see if it still works.  mite of bent a pin or something.I like the Topic Title myself...it semi random like something that I would about half do. Quote from: patio on February 10, 2009, 06:11:48 PM

I like the Topic Title myself...

it semi random like something that I would about half do.

So I have a program I want to use but I need XP to run it.  I don't have enough space to partition, so I'm thinking I'll install another HD SOLELY for this prog and XP.     Is this a good idea?   Is there anything a noob could mess up doing this?  My buddy is going to help, he has a little experience from building his machine, but If I mess this up, my wife would make my life *censored*.   Any cautionary advice???  It's not under warranty.   

cant you just like make this drive an additonal space in such that you can just put stuff on it you want then that should leave space for the program you want.  Also the other ways possible but that means that you would have to change the drive back over afterwards.  If you do change the drive make sure your grounded to the case as this could have esd charge an then kill the machine WITHOUT doing it.If the second Drive is D:
Then you can ask some programs to install on the D:
instead of the C:

Also, you can more My Documents to the D:
drive and free up space on C:
Video:
http://www.metacafe.com/watch/559885/how_to_move_my_documents/good call didnt think of that.thanks squall and Geek.   I'll check that vid out later today. 

I was reticent to do that though that because it involves reformatting the VISTA drive, AFAIK.  D is Recovery for me.  I found VistaBootPro which makes partitioning look easy.  But I only have 16 of 103 gigs free.  The xtra HD is 60g.   How free is the flow of information between the OS disc and the My Documents storage disc?  Can I put apps from Vista and XP on it? Quote

How free is the flow of information between the OS disc and the My Documents storage disc?

Quote

But I only have 16 of 103 gigs free.  The xtra HD is 60g.

You are already hurting your Windows performance at these numbers...

I have a program I want to use but I need XP to run it

Ok, i was playing around on my computer, and when i found it was time to RESTART, upon a sucessful shutdown the computer made the 3 long beeps.

Though what made this interesting is that, it didnt automatically shut it self down as it ussaulyly does, it just continued to stay on, though no visual.

And all i did was shutit down using external, and turn back on again, and i had a sucessful boot?
it only seems to beep, when i restart the computer???
any ideas?
Not without knowing which motherboard you have.sounds like the video died.  Depending on how you connected I would try ANOTHER video CARD.  If its on- board it mite be dead so you'll NEED a video card.  If its connect to a video card try another one.  Also, try useing another monitor first to rule that out.orhhhh........

Well i did say that on the second boot and when i restarted taht it worked.

it only HAPPENS when i restartthat is interesting.  It shouldnt be doing that at all post your motherboard number an well look into it.

OS = Vista
HP computer about 1 year old
2 GB Ram
Old MOUSE: HP Optical connected to PS/2 Port on back of computer.  At times acts a little erratic, thus the NEW mouse was purchased.
New Mouse: Ativa Optical Mouse (USB) connected to PS/2 port via (PS/2 adapter) on back of computer (same mouse port).

With electricity turned off at my surge protector, I plugged in the new mouse as listed above.  My computer comes on and then prompts me to enter in my user password as NORMAL.  However, it appears that my key board does not work as my password does not type any characters in the box.  I cannot proceed, so I resorted to turning off the computer by turning off the surge protector.  With the computer off, if I reconnect the old mouse, everything works fine and I can type in my password.

The new mouse does work both in the USB port and the PS/2 port on the back of the computer, BUT ONLY AFTER I start up the computer with the old mouse plugged into the PS/2 port.  If I shut down my computer with the new mouse plugged in to the PS/2 port, any subsequent start ups result in the inability to type my password in the password box.

Obviously, I would like to be able to use my computer with only the new mouse plugged in to the PS/2 port.  Any suggestions?
did you run the disk that CAME with it?  It mite be that it needs the driver on it.No disk came with the new mouse.  I did go to the Control Panel and clicked on the mouse icon and tried to have the computer search for a new driver via the internet.  No LUCK...Smae problems.was there one for the old one?No disk for the old mouse either.  It was the mouse that came with the desktop.could you run vistia repair?  i'm not vista knowdgleable.Vista Repair?  I typed that into my help dialog box...Nothing found.I'm not all that vista oritended didnt know if it was still there.I'd return the mouse.From what I'm concludeing I agree with broniMouse returned.  New mouse now plugged in and works flawlessly.  Thanks!genious, glad to see it got resolved.Yeah, just remember: bad hardware straight from the box, happens.
I'm glad, the problem is solved.well its good to rule out the possible solutions.  But as long as its working know.

can you guys tell me what is wi-hi and hi-fi
thank you wi-hi i think is a Hawaiin COCKTAIL...
wi-fi is the accepted protocol for WIRELESS INTERNET...
hi-fi is what audiophiles ( music lovers ) affectionately refer to as high fidelity....a standard of musical reproduction.so what is wi-fi used for, what is it JOB,
hi- fi is it a socket type ?
thank youwifi:

clik


HiFi:
clik

the WIKIPEDIA links look especially scrumptious.

I have a NETGEAR 4 port Wireless router that shutoffs a COUPLE TIMES during the day and when im on... how can i FIX this from happening? Do you mean that it shuts itself off, stops responding or just just denies network access?

How hot does it get? If the router is not raised off a good insulating surface i.e. a carpet it will over heat and probably shut off to cool.

If it is just freezing up on you then nothing you can do but reset it or buy a new one.Does the whole router shuts off or just the wireless connection? 'cause my router has a wireless connection which too closes the network when it's not active, but once my laptop is trying to connect to wireless network it becomes active automatically.both.. all the lights go off to everything except for the power light otherwise everything is offkutless, and how do you recover from the loss? Sometimes due to an excessive volume of data passing through the modem it will stop processing and of course the result will be that the router does not receive anything. The solution to that is to just power down the modem (and i usually do the sending wireless router at the modem as well) and it always returns to full service. REMEMBER that if you are disconnecting the router (receiver) at the computer to treat it with the "safely remove hardware" option. It needs to be treated as any other USB connected device. truenorthI have to unplug power cord then plug back in and wait 1 minute and then internet works. Quote from: Accessless on February 10, 2009, 06:04:43 AM

How hot does it get? If the router is not raised off a good insulating surface i.e. a carpet it will over heat and probably shut off to cool.

My brother built the computer.. Then one day after a year or so I turned the computer on and the screen was just black. I bought a new video card and it seems like the same sh*t. The MONITOR will turn on then SAY GOING to SLEEP... like my computer is in constant sleep or SOMETHING .. very weird

In the past for a while when the monitor is turned off and on again it flashed for a long while before it stayed on. Now, it stops flashing and will not turn on. Is there any help or must it be replaced? It is a Samsung SyncMaster931b, maybe 2 years old.Best thing to try is to hook it up to another machine...if it does the same thing it's the monitor...
If not it's something on your machine...Sounds like it's DEAD. But ye, do what patio suggested. 
Did you try and CHECK the cable that goes to the motherboard?How old is the monitor?
Has it ever had the dust removed?

If you think it needs to be cleaned, here a some simple tips.
If this is a big old monitor you may need to get somebody to help you remove the cover. EVEN with the power off, high voltage may be present  a hour later. Watch the fingers.  Gently blow out the dust with COMPRESSED air. Take care to  PUT the thing back together the way it was.

That just might fix it.

Is there a PROGRAM out there that can monitor the amount of wattage and amperage a power supply puts out? I think my 550W Rosewill SP550 PSU is being overloaded by my 8800GS 384MB 192 bit GPU, the PSU only puts out 18A on each rail also. The GPU eats about 20A, so I'm thinking that the PSU is to blame for the black screen's I've been getting. So I was looking to find a program to see how MUCH wattage the PSU is really putting out and how much of it is really being used. Dunno if the motherboard is even capable of sensing wattage, but I thought I'd ask. My power supply overheats while playing Fallout 3, pretty sure my power hungry 8800GS is at fault.

My desktops specs are:
Intel Pentium D 805 2.66GHz/533FSB/2MB L2
LGA775 Foxconn M7VMX-K series M-ATX motherboard with the nVidia nForce 7050/610i chipset
XFS 8800GS 384MB 192 bit PCI-E x16 2.0 GPU
D-Link Air Plus G DWL-G510 PCI WIC
Primary HDD: Hitachi Travelstar 60GB 2.5" SATA150
Secondary HDD: Western Digital WD3200JB 320GB 3.5" IDE
Optical drive: Lite-On LDW-811S IDE DVD burner
And finally, my desktop has 9 fans cooling it, soon to be 10 or 11 when i install a couple side panel fans.
I'll list the fans below, 'cause, maybe one of you will be able to tell how much power I'll really need.
2x 80mm front intake fans
1x 80mm top exhaust fan
1x rear 92mm exhaust fan
1x 92mm CPU heatsink fan
1x 40mm chipset heatsink fan
1x 50mm mosfet fan
1x 50mm GPU fan (built into heatsink)
1x 120mm PSU fan (built into power supply)
I'm installing a 70mm side intake fan to cool the GPU, and a 92mm side intake to blow over the chipset as soon as i get more dremel cutting discs. And, YES, the desktop sounds a bit like an overgrown Hair Drier. I usually listen to music or have headphones on while gaming, so it don't matter.

One reason why I'm curious as to if a computer can detect wattage is because my Dell Inspiron 1720 notebook seems capable of detecting how many watts the power brick its plugged into puts out. I know this from accidentally plugging my bro's 50W school laptop adapter into it,  it needs a 90W adapter, so when I booted it beeped at me while showing a black screen with white lettering telling me to ensure the power adapter puts out 90W or more. So obviously the laptop can detect the input from the power brick. There is no sensor wire on the adapters, it MUST have some sensor for wattage. The question is, do desktop motherboards have the same capability to detect wattage? Some do.  Check your BIOS.  There may be an option showing power supply voltages.  If they're bouncing all over the place, then the power supply may be going bad.Already have checked the BIOS, in it and windows the voltages are stable unless I overload it by gaming. Its the amount of wattage and amperage the GPU sucks up that I'm worried about.

this weekend newegg has some gooooddd deals on some graphics cards (4870 is what im looking at) and i will be gaming at 1920x1080 res
i was wondering if its really worth the extra $ to get the 1gb over the 512? i was looking at some benchmarks and saw that there was like no more than 4 fps difference
ok so they have these 4870 512 mb
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010380048%201069633099%20106792627%201067940678&bop=And&CompareItemList=N82E16814102810%2CN82E16814161236
they also have an asus darknight edition 512mb for $ 235. BUT look at this deal on the 4870 1gb
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102801
do you think the 4 fps is worth the $40? will it help in games in the future?
thanks1GB of VRAM helps more than you'd think.  Most REVIEWS show just the average FPS - reviews from places like [H]ard OCP will give the minimum and maximum too.  Extra VRAM helps prevent stuttering and low minimum FPS - these are not shown in most of the reviews out there, but can seriously affect your gameplay.
For high resolution gaming like that, 1GB of VRAM may be helpful.  As for whether it's worth the extra $40, that's your decision.  I'd recommend gathering more information about the performance impact on the games you play at the resolution you'll be running them at.hmm well the 1gb saphire is a good deal i think ill go for ITI think that 1GB of VRAM would reduce the total addressable RAM for 32-bit systems, or so I've heard.


Never really thought 1GB would help myself- it obviously would depend on how much VRAM a game could consume; Once the VRAM is exhausted, textures and so forth have to be stored in System memory, which causes a lot of slowdown.

It would definitely help in the future, since I have a feeling they will soon be a requirement for the higher SETTINGS on some games.

You'll probably find a lot more performance improvement then 4fps; that's just an average, and you'd be surprised what a difference it makes.ok im getting it for shure Quote

I think that 1GB of VRAM would reduce the total addressable RAM for 32-bit systems, or so I've heard.

I just put together a new PC.  Everything is new.
Upon testing it out, the monitor wouldn't RECEIVE a signal.
It dawned on me that the HDD did not have the drivers for the video card.
There is no onboard video for my motherboard, so I can't use that.
How do I get my monitor to connect?If you have a video card installed & upon booting the SYSTEM you should get a signal....because Windows will load generic driver.Well now I notice the motherboard isn't recognizing anything.
Could it be defective?What do you mean by "the motherboard isn't recognizing anything"?The keyboard won't light up.
The motherboard won't beep when I hold down a key.
My mouse isn't lighting up.
Monitor gives "no signal detected" error.
Everything is hooked up as directed.Did you try to remove battery for a few minutes?Lets go back: Start off by dis connecting { pull power from all the drives ,your hd and optical remove any add in cards just leaving the video card installed , also dis connect any printer, scanner ect. Reboot & see if system postsI haven't tried the battery. I'm guessing it's the large shiny CIRCLE. 
I'll try it and post back.Read you board booklet [ how to clear CMOS] it will do the same thing as removing the battery & is safer [due to damage]Well I tried everything suggested and nothing happened.
Same error over and over.
It doesn't even make any noise.
The only thing the motherboard does is light up the LEDs on it.hmm, does the motherboard happen to have diagnostic LEDs? my dell has the lights coming from the computers rear; SMALL LED lights labelled 1 through four. I've heard older computer have then right on the motherboard, and some have them right on the front panel.Those were the LEDs. They're all lit up. Quote from: RepeaterV on December 06, 2008, 08:45:24 PM

Those were the LEDs. They're all lit up.

I just purchased my 1st SATA device an Emprex 20x DVD writer. It is to be installed in a Dell XPS WHL . My perusal of the technical DATA pertaining to the computer indicates that 2 SATA devices can be connected to it. My question is;once i open the case am i likely to find both the SATA power connection and data transfer cables (as would normally be the case as with IDE connection devices) or am i going to need to purchase one or both of these cables? No cables were included with the drive.I know i would soon find out if i opened the case. I try not to do that more often than necessary so as to minimize any problems that (in spite of all the precautions) might occur. truenorththe power connector might be present on a power supply lead, but you'll likely need the SATA cable(s).

My THINKING is that although with IDE connections the manufacturer often connects a HD and a optical drive on separate channels (and thus two cables), with SATA, each device GETS a separate cable. I don't think they'd waste money putting an unused data cable inside.BC_Programmer,THANK you for your input.It of course would make a great deal of sense that the manufacturer of the computer (that sold for well over $1000.00) would not want to expend so much more on a SATA data cable.Also that given that fact (if it turns out to be the case) that the optical drive manufacturer would package a product that also doesn't include the cable. They (the manufacturer) must be close relatives of the printer manufacturers.truenorth

I installed a program, EasyBurner, and it asked me to restart (not sure if it's relevant, but I'm LETTING you know anyways). I did, and instead of making the clicking noise of the cd drive and the other minor noises of a startup, they were repeating about 7-10 times. I've tried a few startups and each is LIKE this. The worst part is that I have nothing to see on my monitor. I know my video card and monitor are fine, so that's not even an option. I can't even see the boot screen or driver load screen, so I know something is wrong beyond video feed. I waited for the time it would take to get to the Log in screen, then I typed my password and hit enter, and I heard the log on sound, so I know it's working that much. It made a little error sound, maybe something popped up, but again, my monitor indicates no activity. The little sound it makes (possibly the hard drive starting up or something like that) which has always been present and is normal now makes the sound about 7-10 times and the LED HDD indicator blinks each time, which I guess would mean the hard drive keeps restarting. The noises and light indication happen about every 1-2 seconds and then it loads normally (sounding at least, I still have no control as I cannot see). This is why I'm doubting it's a video issue.. that and my monitor is only 2 months old. Perhaps this HELPS- I had plugged in a camcorder using USB and it automatically installed its drivers and then notified me it is working and ready for use. Maybe that has something to do with it?
Any ideas? Please help, I really need this fixed for a project I'm working on. Any more questions, just ask.
XP SP3That clicking noise may be your hard drive failing...
Remove a side panel to determine where exactly the clik is coming from.
If it's the drive stop using it immediately if you want to save any data...well, i unplugged both connections to the SATA drive and then tried again. The hard drive was making normal sounds and it seems to be working, but I still cannot see. THe PROBLEM might actually be that my monitor isn't working, which is disappointing because it is only 2 months old, and I cannot find the warranty info, only the receipt. I'm going to connect it to my laptop and see if it works.

Recently my Task Manager has been showing that my Q6600 Quad Core is at or around 30-35% USAGE with nothing running. I did swap out Graphic cards recently and I at first thought that was the problem but I have tried uninstalling and installing the drivers multiple times. I'm new to ATI (Radeon HD 3870) and not really sure the proper way to install their cards, seems more confusing than Nvidia (swaped with a friend my 8800GT to try out 3870, i could get it back if that may solve problem). My temps have also gone haywire, up in the 80's while doing nothing but idle. (CPU) A way to adjust the CPU fan would also help, i have speed fan but it doesn't respond to commands in speedfan.

System Idle process seems to be 90 CPU most the time. Loaded Fail-Safe defaults on my Gigabyte EP35-DS3L mobo to see if that helped anything but it didn't. I only noticed this problem after the card was put in, but it began a week after installation.

Really anoying problem, BF2 is choppy, CoD4 struggles, should be running max'd out with no prob.

Dual boot, XP 32 Media Center, and XP64. Let me know if you need more specs. Doubt its a virus because i haven't DOWNLOADED anything strange recently.Having suffered ''mystery'' CPU activity in past - my best suggestion is go on a tracking down mission within processes ....... see what is taking what and see too if temp removal of a process can have any useful effect.

The ATI install should not usually be too problematic ... once the catalyst center is in and running all should be OK.  Unless there is maybe some conflict lurking - again a tracking down deal possibly.I had this problem a while back, it was due to a hardware fault. I used a process explorer to find the hard ware at fault so that it could be disabled.

http://www.download.com/Process-Explorer/3000-2094_4-10223605.html

Hardware faults would be shown under Hardware interrupts. Well here is a screen shot for the explorer, it does show some faults, most it is at is around 8. Procedure calls is high, which is what led me to believe it was a driver issue. How can you 'see' the interrupts and figure them out? I do have the trial version of avast and it has been bugging my to register a new copy, maybe it is that trying to find updates or something. Thanks for the help so far.

**edit My bad, forgot the image


That does seem to point towards a driver issue. Have you tried other drivers for the new card, old or new?Well, I tried a old beta driver my friend said was good, and I used that i believe for a little while, then I wasen't SUE if it was actually working or not so i went to the ATI site and got the latest one. Would a system restore work?Well I think that this is starting to go a little out of my league. I'm not great with driver conflicts (looks like a driver conflict causing a hardware fault) but that's going into the realms of opinion. Maybe another member can help you further.

A system restore may fix the issue (restoring the original non-conflicting drivers), but I'm afraid that I can't be of much more help.Is it safe to assume to downloaded the windows XP 64-bit driver, as opposed to a 32-bit one? Quote

My temps have also gone haywire, up in the 80's while doing nothing but idle.

System Idle process seems to be 90 CPU most the time.

This is a very strange problem that I am having with keyboards.  Notice the plural.  I have replaced my keyboard 3 times because I am having a problem with it skipping letters and spaces.  When the problem persisted after the second replacement I thought that I was literally loosing my touch on the keys but that isn't the case as I can type fine on my old IBM electric typewriter.  With each replacement I have used the driver that came with the board and I am still having a problem with skipped letters and spacing.  It is almost as if sometimes it can't KEEP up with my typing but I am not an especially fast typist.  About 45wpm and 60 on a good day.  I am BEGINNING to think that maybe the problem is with Windows XP.  The problem exists whether I am typing on a Word document or in an email on the internet.  I have a 300 GB hard drive, 2 GB of Memory so there is no problem of a program running slow from lack of memory.  All of the boards have been Logitech, although I can't imagine that would be a problem as they seem to have cornered the market on boards and mice.  I have Microsoft Office 97 (never needed anything more than that).  Has anyone else out there ever had this problem and if so I'd be happy to know how or if you RESOLVED it?  Thanks, Carol D.Good TEST to see if it cant keep up is open up notepad or word etc and hold down a letter key and watch the screen. The characters should flow out continuous without any pauses in their PRODUCTION to the application. If the creation of these characters seems not continuous then your system is having a difficulty and its not your keyboard(s).


Also test the continuous flow of characters both with 97 and say notepad or windows wordpad to see if there is any temporary skips in the character creation to eliminate an application issue.

Also is it just specific characters more than others or random. If its more likely one character over the other, test the character creation holing that key down and see for continuous creation of the characters like KKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK K with a smooth evenly time created per letter with no lag, skipped spaces like KKKKKKK  KKKKKK  KKKKKK KKKK or pauses

Are you using PS2 keyboard or USB?

i'm TRING to find this board Intel SE7210TP1-E SEVER Board, I tried newegg an tiger an geeks.  i was told to look at amazon but its not there.Google serversupply & type the board#   or 1-800 778-7759

Desk top with 2 Seagate 250GB SATA drives. On start up the C drive makes a screeching noise for about 2-3 seconds and then settles down and everything works OK.
I feel that this is an early indication of failure so for safety I will replace this C drive
I would like to get advise, either good or bad, on what I should use as a replacement . When I purchased the Dell 3 years ago the Barracuda drive was considered by Dell to be ONE of the most RELIABLE available. But things move on and I would like to hear any comments to assist in selecting the right replacement

Thanks in advance for your comments

ramonford Seagates is still a good brand.
Isn't seagate the company with that hard drive fault that they deny exist. If it is then the drive should be fine, its just irritating. Quote from: Accessless on December 06, 2008, 12:22:13 PM

Isn't seagate the company with that hard drive fault that they deny exist

Quote from: Accessless on December 06, 2008, 12:22:13 PM

Isn't seagate the company with that hard drive fault that they deny exist

What do you mean?

Some Samsung drives make a screeching sound even when everything's OK. With Seagates, though, I think it's a bad sign.

I've still got 1-3Gb drives from these companies

Quote from: Accessless on December 07, 2008, 02:39:33 AM

I've still got 1-3Gb drives from these companies

HA! I have a 43MB (yes, MB) WD hard drive, and it still works fine.

In the last few days, I have a problem with the lcd monitor of my Toshiba M45 S359 laptop. When I turn on the computer, most of the times I get a screen that looks a lot like the ONE in the picture that I enclose (I haqve done it in paint). The bottom half of the screen is black at first and then starts to get gray. I think the backlight works because I can see it. The upper part of the screen is perfectly ok. The last visible line seems to be repeated in shadow in the lower part of the screen. Sometimes, if I keep the lcd on for ten minutes or more, it starts to WORK perfectly again and nothing will HAPPEN during the time it is on. We tried to connect an external monitor and it was working perfectly.  I am a poor student and have no money to buy a new laptop again

[Saving space - attachment deleted by ADMIN]I think you might need to reinstall your Video Card Drivers.

Go to your computer's manufacturer website and download the drivers.Do what Carbon suggests.  If that doesn't work then you've probably got a screen that is going bad, that or the chip on the motherboard.  If either it will cost $$$ to repair.  Best suggestion is if you don't need the laptop to be mobile just use the external monitor.

Alan <><

Hello I'm new here  And I'm having trouble with my new build

Config:
Intel CORE 2 Duo E7300 (2.66GHz)
ASUS P5QL-SE P43 MotherBoard
HIS HD4670 PCI-E 512MB DDR3 IceQ Turbo
Kingston DDR-2 800MHz 2G Ram
WD 640GB 6400AAKS SATA II/16MB HDD
ANTEC EA280 EARTHWATTS 380W

I'm using my old IDE DVD-ROM (DVD DC DW1670 from BENQ)
When I put the Win XP disc in the DVD-ROM,
it said "CDBOOT: Couldn't find NTLDR",
followed by "Reboot and select proper BOOT device
or insert boot media in selected boot device and press a key"
I have tried different discs BORROWED from my friends,
and it just showed the same error.
I also tried the discs using another computer and they work fine.
So what's the problem here?
Is it my IDE DVD-ROM? Or the new HDD?
Thanks in advance!

P.S. I have SET the DVD-ROM as the 1st boot priority
More likely to be the DVD-ROM drive. Do you have a spare to swap in for your current drive?If the problem doesn't follow you (taking the disks to other computers and they work on them) then the problem is the drive / cable.

Alan &LT;><  There may be remnants of a failed OS install on the HDD...
Re-partition and format and see if this works.

I have a Sony Desktop Model VGC RA842G running Vista Premium w/SP1 (more specs below) which is about THREE YEARS old. What can I replace to make it even more robust (say for video editing, etc.)

Main Circuit Board
Board: ASUSTek Computer INC. P5LP-VX
Bus Clock: 200 megahertz
BIOS: Phoenix Technologies, LTD 1001 05/18/2005

Processor3.00 gigahertz Intel Pentium D
16 kilobyte primary memory cache
1024 kilobyte secondary memory cache

Memory Modules
2046 Megabytes INSTALLED Memory (Maximium possible under current configuration)
Slot 'A0' has 512 MB
Slot 'A1' has 512 MB
Slot 'A2' has 512 MB
Slot 'A3' has 512 MB

3 Hard Drives with 1.25 TB capacity
Hmm strange, it looks like the main board is a custom build for Sony. The closest match that I can find is the P5L-MX. http://uk.asus.com/products.aspx?l1=3&l2=11&l3=194&l4=0&model=1320&modelmenu=1

Are you using the On-board graphics adapter (i.e. the one built into the main board itself). If so then a dedicated graphics card could be the answer.

can anyone tell that is there a cable that can connect ethenet internet to desktop cpu (like the cable to dial-up), so what i wanna ask is:  is that a cable with 2 HEAD that one is ethenet plug and one is the one that we connect to home phone (square), and what is that cable with ethenet-dialup called?
thanks in advance.Maybe it's just me but I find your post confusing.  Phrases like "cable to dial-up" and "ethenet-dialup" don't make sense.  Exactly what is your current setup for Internet connection, or exactly what kind of Internet access are you planning?  Are you/will you be using a dialup service, DSL, or cable?  Are you/will be using a router, along with a modem?sorry for the language problem, well, i try to be more specific.
i am currently using "unwire wireless" (internet compnay), is that DSL? and i think the cable the join the modem between my laptop and the modem is "ethernet plug", so  if i try to connect my "unwire wirelless modem" to my DESKTOP computer, is it POSSIBLE, i think yes as long as i buy the hardware and install it into my desktop computer (with the ethernet plug), in additon, most desktop computer can connect with dial-up, and i called that cable is dial-up cable, is it? but my wireless modem is using ethernet plug, so is there a cable that can link my wireless modem and my desktop computer, if yes, what is that cable called
much obliged.Are you perhaps refering to a network Interface card for Ethernet?

a "dial-up cable" is merely a phone jack/cord. Nothing fancy.

The ethernet cord is called a "Cat5-e" cable.i think BC-programmer is correct, there are 3 type of that network device: one is you said "interface network card", the other is a wireless modem, and a usb netword device. i am using the wireless modem
my question is , is there a cable in one head is cat5-3 and the other head is "dial-up cable"?
thanksNot that I know of.  Why would you NEED it?  i think my desktop doesnt have the ethernet socket, but all solve today, i recieved my desktop computer and it does have the ethernet socket, in addition, i did READ some article saying that desktop computer only have got the dial up cable if i want to use wireless that is ethernet, i have to install some hardware
anyway thank for all your efforts
can i ask is there a computer term of a dial-up cable?Phone line... Quote from: BC_Programmer on December 06, 2008, 01:17:17 PM

a "dial-up cable" is merely a phone jack/cord. Nothing fancy.