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I'm confused...I KNOW an integrated circuit is technical jargon for a microprocessor, microchip and chip. I am reading about how an integrated circuit is made and how it works, but what is the advantage of them? Is it because the computer's electrical CIRCUITRY is housed and wired on a miniaturized chip?

Thank you. No one has replied YET, so I might share something I found on Google


Advantage: They are smaller and require a lot less POWER to operate. They are cheap to manufacture and easy to mass-produce.

Disadvantage: Almost IMPOSSIBLE to modify or repair.

Hi guys,
I have a problem with my computer. I had turned it off and a few hours later, I went back to turn it back on. When I pressed the start up BUTTON, my computer started up for about 3-4 seconds and then just died right after. The fans were working, but soon after, the computer died out. There was no beeps.

FIRST I tried unplugging everything and then plugged everything back in, but sadly it still had the same problem. I tried TAKING out my video card, RAM, and sound cards, but it still did the same thing. I, then, bought a power supply and it was the same problem. I returned that and bought a new motherboard. Did the same thing again. My last guess is that it might be the CPU. Would the CPU cause the computer to load up for a few seconds and then shut right off? yes I had the same problem with my computer a ways back, the clips BROKE off and the fan wasnt all the WAY on the cpu and it over heated, when I replaced the module it did the same, found out the cpu cooked and had to get it replaced, check to make sure that you have a pad or grease under the fan and on the cpu, make sure its tight.I'd vote for failed power supply.

I'd like to add a new 250Gig Drive to my computer.

I have an AMD Athalon 512 RAM Win XP SP3 with a 20 GIG and an 80 GIG drives( full as a goog) The computer does not have any SATA connections.

Id like to clone the O/S and the Datafrom the drives to the 250 GIG.
Can someone tell me how to clone a drive please?
You hook up the 250 as a slave drive and then use the Drive manuf. utilities to "clone" your OS drive to the 250...
After it finishes you POWER down...dis-connect your current master drive with the OS on it and hook up the 250 to the end of the IDE cable and set it's jumper to master.
Then power up and make sure everything works to your liking.
If so you then power down...hook up your old master to the middle IDE connector and jumper it as slave and power back up.
It will no longer boot to the old drive ( unless your BIOS supports this ) but all your data and programs will be intact I've installed the 250Gig drive in but I CANT find how to get the drive recognized.
I think I should be looking for something like Drive manager to get it recognized.
Can someone tell me the procedure please?You have to make sure that the drive is jumpered RIGHT.

http://www.webtechgeek.com/How-to-installing-a-drive.htmAs much as I want to do this, I've decided that its just a whisker beyond where I want to extend my abilities right now.
I cant thank everyone enough for your suggestions, encouragement and assistance.

So Ive decided also that I will just install the new drive, and do a clean install of winXP then, select the programs I want for the new drive.

I hope I can RELY on coming here in the future, and being received as well as I have so far.
Thank you one and all.

( My next post may well be in 15 minutes.. Hahahahaha)

hai,

as i am harware engg I need to take inventory of total 50 systems in 30 mnts but ..

If i go THROUCH check the individual it will take 10 mnts..

most of data I need from CPU is

1)model/make
2)RAM
3)HDD (capacity/free size of each drive)
4)Imp (n/w,display,audio)
5)processor speed
6)hostname
7)Ip Address

can U anyone help me to take a data in a SINGLE fetch
( any one script to run )

pl help me to do the best
..... Thanks in advance

Hi, I have a Dell Photo All-in-one Printer 962 (inkjet).

I'm trying to print some flashcards and have therefore been printing on both sides of a paper. My printer does not have automatic duplex printing, so I've been printing on both sides manually. I discovered that while the side of the paper that is being printed on comes out clean (i.e. the ink doesn't leave any STRIPES) the printer has been making a few faint stripes on the back side of the page (they are straight and go across the ENTIRE length of the page).

The stripes appear whenever I print anything. What I mean is that they do not only appear when I'm attempting to print on the 2nd side of a page.

I don't KNOW how long that has been going on because I usually only one side of the paper.

I've found ARTICLES and information on how to stop stripes from occurring on the side of the page I'm printing on, but again that is not the problem. I'm ASSUMING I just need to clean something, but I don't know what.

I'd appreciate any help, thanks.

tetanyaIt sounds like you may need to clean the printer rollers. Simply use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.Thank you. I cleaned the rollers and it now works perfectly.

tetanyaYou're welcome...'twas nothing.

Hi everyone

So I am having some heating issues with my CPU. Its idle temp is usually 64 degrees celcius (was 75 before i cleaned it ), which of course leads to freezing and shutting down when I do any cpu intense processes. I built the computer 3 or 4 years ago, and this is the first time Ive had problems with it. I tried going to BIOS (Pheonix) and load the fail safe defaults, but the screen just goes black when i save an exit. I then have to turn off the power to the computer on the power supply, because manual shutdown and restart just gives me a black screen. However when i kill the power to the computer then turn it back on it works fine and my CPU temp hovers around 56 for a few hours till it finally freezes again. So I was just wondering if anyone could provide me with any insight into this problem, or give me some advice on how to cool my processor down (I already ORDERED a NEW Dynatron BH-610/C61G 60mm Ball Cooling Fan/Heatsink with Arctic Silver 5 thermal compound to replace my current heatsink) Used both SpeedFan and Everest Home Edition to check temps. All other temperatures in my computer are between 43-46.

System Info (Home Built)
AMD Athlon XP 3200+ processor (2.2 GHz)
ATI Radeon 9800 pro video card
2 x 80 GB Westerd Digital HARD drives
Allied 500W Power supply
2 x 512 RAM
Soyo Dragon Ultra Motherboard

Thanks for any and all help!that new heatsink that you ordered should cool it down.Also idling doesn't quite tell us much...how many apps do you have running in the background ? ?I had no programs running when I checked the idle temp. Opening up firefox or playing music genereally raised the temp 2-3 degrees.

Whats odd is i find that by killing the power to the power supply and reloading the checksum defults the temp will drop to 53 degrees, and stays below 60 even when running video games (such as oblivion), but soon as i restart the computer, or turn it off then back on without killing all power the temp SHOOTS back up to 65Does anyone know a dangerous temp. for a computer to be at or at what temp. it begins to overheat? Fahrenheit temp would be good, thx.Quote from: grazman on September 23, 2008, 06:20:47 PM

Does anyone know a dangerous temp. for a computer to be at or at what temp. it begins to overheat? Fahrenheit temp would be good, thx.

Hi I read a POST about no sound and thought I better check with you before I try to fix my problem. I'll tell you the story and then post the EVEREST results for my computer. I had win 2000 on my computer and then had to change to XP Pro after being locked out by an unknown password. I know XP better so thought this would be good for me. The only thing is XP seems to be working fine, but now have no sound. I've been told by a friend that is somewhat of a geek that I need Realtek AC97 driver and this download should solve my problem. I have dial-up and after numerous tries to download from various sites I succeeded today. It's the 404 series, every time I tried 405 it wouldn't finish downloading.

My question is if this is the RIGHT way to go to solve this problem by installing this driver? And a side note/question is when I go to the sites even EVEREST they tell you to have them scan the computer, download fix registry, scan computer for driver updates, etc. Can you tell me about these things and if I should do any of them? I have another computer that is very sluggish perhaps one of these could help.

--------[ EVEREST Home Edition (c) 2003-2005 Lavalys, Inc. ]------------------------------------------------------------

Version EVEREST v2.20.405
Homepage http://www.lavalys.com/
Report Type Quick Report
Computer CHRISTIS-DFF31B
Generator Administrator
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional 5.1.2600 (WinXP Retail)
Date 2008-09-23
Time 16:51


--------[ Summary ]-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Computer:
Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional
OS Service Pack Service Pack 2
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Computer Name CHRISTIS-DFF31B
User Name Administrator

Motherboard:
CPU Type Intel Celeron, 2000 MHz (20 x 100)
Motherboard Name TriGem Glendale
Motherboard Chipset Intel Brookdale-G i845GL
System Memory 758 MB (PC2100 DDR SDRAM)
BIOS Type Phoenix (10/14/03)
Communication Port Communications Port (COM1)
Communication Port ECP Printer Port (LPT1)

Display:
Video Adapter RADEON 7500 Family (Microsoft Corporation) (64 MB)
Video Adapter RADEON 7500 Family (Microsoft Corporation) (64 MB)
3D Accelerator ATI Radeon 7500 (RV200)
3D Accelerator Intel Extreme Graphics
Monitor HP Pavilion MX70 [17" CRT] (THTDQ73878)

Multimedia:
Audio Adapter Intel 82801DB ICH4 - AC'97 Audio Controller [A-1]

Storage:
IDE Controller Intel(R) 82801DB Ultra ATA Storage Controller - 24CB
Floppy Drive Floppy disk drive
Disk Drive WDC WD400BB-00AUA1 (37 GB, IDE)
Optical Drive COMBI RW16x10/DVD
SMART Hard Disks Status OK

Partitions:
C: (NTFS) 38154 MB (34100 MB free)

Input:
Keyboard Standard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard
Mouse PS/2 Compatible Mouse

Network:
Network Adapter Realtek RTL8139/810x Family Fast Ethernet NIC
Network Adapter WAN (PPP/SLIP) Interface (64.24.149.126)
Modem U.S. Robotics 56K Faxmodem USB

Peripherals:
Printer HP DeskJet 930C/932C/935C
USB1 Controller Intel 82801DB ICH4 - USB Controller [A-1]
USB1 Controller Intel 82801DB ICH4 - USB Controller [A-1]
USB1 Controller Intel 82801DB ICH4 - USB Controller [A-1]
USB2 Controller Intel 82801DB ICH4 - Enhanced USB2 Controller [A-1]
USB Device U.S. Robotics 56K Faxmodem USB


A really simple fix, whenever you install a new version of Windows XP or any other OS for that matter you need drivers for your hardware. Typically, the CD with all the drivers comes with your motherboard if you PURCHASED it separately, other than that if its a pretty new PC there is usually a recovery hard drive (or files) on it pre-loaded.

Your friend is right you need the sound drivers, check the model of your motherboard and from there go to manufacturer's website, locate your model and downloaded needed sound, video, lan, etc. drivers.

Hope this helps. Good luck.The first thing you should do after an install is to make sure all of your drivers loaded. Click Start then Run and type in: Devmgmt.msc and press enter. This will take you to device manger. Here you see all of your hardware devices. If you see any yellow question marks or EXCLAMATION points then you will need a driver for that device.

When you bought your computer it should have came with a few disks, one of these should be your drivers disk. Run this disk to get rid of all of those pesky question marks in device manger.

If you don't have your drivers disk then you can download them from your computer manufacturers website. Look for a driver download option on the home page. Now just download and run them.

The very next thing you should do is go to windows update and get all of the updates that are available for your computer. You will probably have to restart a few times. Just keep going back to update until it stops finding updates for your computer.

Now install the antivirus program of your choice and you should be good to go.

Bought a NEW desktop.Moved my drafting programs over, but when I tried to clip the hardware lock on the parallel port there was NONE what can I do?what hardware? Printer or scanner, MAYBE?



You MAY need something like THIS. I searched "convert USB to parallel" and came up with that site and others. Some retail stores may carry SIMILAR adapters.

Hey GUYS,

A buddy of mine wants to buy a laptop for GENERAL use but gaming primarily. I suggested him Acer AS6920 but then found out the graphics ain't so great there.

What kind of laptop WOULD you suggest for approx. cost of $1000, 15-17" screen, for gaming to run some of the new games, or at least Hitman: BLOOD Money, Half-Life 2, Battlefield 2?

Thanks in advance, if you have any other questions do ask.

- DimaA good gaming laptop will run $1500.00 You can get one cheaper but you might not be satisfied by the preformance. The newer games require more SYSTEM requirements.

I have a gateway pentium 4, single core, 2ghz intel processor, Computor model e4000. 1gb ram 2-512sticks. 2gb virtual memory. windows xp home.
for a couple weeks the computer has been restarting, and firefox and ie crashing. I did a windows reinstall, which took me about ten times because because it kept shutting down. Anyway I removed , intercchanged, and just used one stick of ram .
Finally got windows reinstalled but it's still shutting down and programs crashing. I disconnected the second hard drive, the cd roms, the pci cards, and it is still crashing.
I finally downloaded "fix it utilities" and it checked the hardware, and said the CMOS ram test failed. So, fine, now I know what's wrong but how do I fix it, or do I have to get a new computer. I also, took out the cmos battery and checked it, it had a good 3 volts, so it should be ok, Can any help me?I'm a bit confused but I think that your RAM memory (2x512MB) failed the CMOS RAM memory test; as compared with the CMOS memory failed a test. Does that seem to be your understanding?

To confirm: Download and run memtest86 (www.memtest.org). Download the .iso, burn it to disk, boot from the disk and run the test for 1 hour, at least, on each RAM module, individually. If both pass, run the test for at least 2 hours with both modules installed. ANY failed test means a bad module.

If you don't have a program to burn the .iso, look at this: http://isorecorder.alexfeinman.com/isorecorder.htmfi tried memtest 86 . I used it a couple times. and let it run for about two hours. There wasn't any problems.
From my unsterstanding, there are two memories. The one memtest checks and then theres a cmos memory that holds the information for the bios , I guess so the computer knows where to find windows or something. That's what "fix it utilities said didn't pass.also, there is nothing in the bios to check the memory timing. you cna't set the timing on a gateway manufactured computer, or they make it hard toThere should be a battery on the motherboard that's what failed just replace that and you should be good to go.Since your RAM memory checks out, go ahead and replace the CMOS battery, as suggested by brett74. I know that you said that you checked the voltage but SUSPECT that you didn't test it under load. Regardless, they're cheap. And it is highly unusual for the CMOS memory to "fail."

After replacing the battery, enter the BIOS and set to "BIOS Failsafe Defaults," or similar, "Save & Exit." If your problem is solved, re-enter the BIOS and set to "Optimized Defaults," "Save & Exit." I do not know what choices you have in the Gateway BIOS, but you get the idea.
thanks , I had to order a battery, it'll be several days to get it. hope that works. That's about all the gateway bios has, " optimized defaults". I just have to wait and see.Quote from: w00189wr on September 22, 2008, 06:27:53 PM

thanks , I had to order a battery,

it was a cr 2032 but the kind you get at walmart ain't for the cmos and i was afraid to put it in. the rechargeable cr2032 are supposed to lithium manganese dioxide. So I just didn't want to take a chance.

We have REMOTE site which must be QUERIED for data. They have worked until last week. Now the only access I have is my LAPTOP. The desktop at master control will not access. I tried the USR internal modem, no connect. Installed a new external same result. Brought another desktop with internal same result. PUT the NEW external on that one same result. The phone lines are quiet.
Thanks for any IDEAS. USR customer service was no help.
Frank

Hello and thank you in advance to anyone who can help. I have two computers. The one I have a problem with is my old Dell Dimension 4700. While shutting the unit down it automatically started downloading updates. During this process I heard a load snap and then all kinds of funky, should not be heard from a computer, sounds. I know that shutting my unit down by switching the power off during a software install is a no no, so I tried to wait as long as I could before the sounds got worse and then I just turned the switch off. I found out PRETTY quickly that the snap and the sounds where from a disk in my disk drive that had basically tore itself apart. I found 2 pieces by opening up the tray and that was all. I then removed the disk drive and opened the case and was able to shake out what appeared to be the rest of the tiny pieces that were left. After I had put the drive back in and restarted the computer I got a message saying

"Drive 1 not found: SERIAL ATA, SATA-2
Strike F1 to continue, F2 to run the setup utility"

I struck F1 and I then received a
"Window could not start because the following file is missing or corrupt:
\system32\hal.dll"

I figured okay my drive is shot and I need to reinstall the .dll file that was probably lost or corrupted when I turned the power off of the pc when it was updating software. Well the problem is that my second drive is a DVD drive and does not read my OS reinstallation disk that came with the PC. It would have read it just fine on the now defunct drive. I tried using my laptop and copying the disk to a compatible disk, but that does not seem to work, probably because I only have one disk drive on the laptop. I know I should have backed up my files from my desktop, bang head against wall, bang head against wall, but I have some pics of my kids on there from when they were young and I really would like to at least get them off the hard drive. Before I take my desktop to a pro I would like to know if I can just buy the exact same disk drive that failed me and physically install it without having to reinstall the drivers so that I can get the .dll file back in the system using the reinstallation cd? Would that work or does every new piece of hardware have to have the software for it reinstalled even though they are the same make and model? Is there any other way to rectify this problem other than what I am attempting to do?

Again thank you in advanceAccording to my five second google search, your PC has two CD drives a DVD drive "D:\" and a CD-RW "E:\" Do you mean that your primary disk drive (the DVD) has for want a better word has 'exploded'?

Basic DVD drives are very cheap and widely available nowadays. We would need to know what country you live in before we could make any recommendations of providers but you could probably just stop off at your local computer shop and pick one up. The installation is quick and easy and you should be able to restore your missing windows .dll WITHIN minutes.Accessless,

Thank you for your response. I GUESS with all that I had written I might have made my post difficult to understand. To keep it simple.... What "exploded" or "broke apart" was the disk that was in my cd-r drive, which in TURN no longer works. I now "cannot" reboot my OS because of the missing .dll. I also "cannot" reinstall the missing .dll because the DVD drive will not read my windows XP reinstallation disk. I know enough that if I go out and pick up a new drive I would have to install the drivers and or software to my computer before it will work. In other words, I can not get into my operating system in order to install a new drive. My question is if I purchase the same make and model drive, that no longer works, will my PC recognize it without being able to get into the OS first? Will the PC just think that it is the same drive as was ruined and read the reinstallation disk and replace the .dll? If not... what do you suggest I do in order to regain the info on my hard drive? BTW I live in the U.S.A.. Optical drives do not need drivers...
You should be able to replace it and carry on as normal.

Hi
I dropped and broke my disabled friends ergonomic keyboard when cleaning it for her, and found a used one at the thrift store today. I am trying it out on my computer, and several times, but not every time, the windows xp screen does not start, instead I get a DARK screen with the boot DEVICE menu. I cant SELECT anything USING the keyboard. Other times it starts up fine, types fine in a word document. What could be causing this? Is there a stuck key or something that makes it enter the boot device menu? Help appreciated, thanksIs it a PS/2 or a USB keyboard? Are you using the same connector she uses?......Make sure power is off when removing keyboard connector.Try a BRAND new keyboard...

Hi All,

I wonder if you could help me please. I have a 5 yr old HP compaq nx9010 which I use regularly. Recently, it has started to sound like it's about to take off when switched on. Recently, when I switched it on it would turn itself off after a minute or so if I did not touch the keyboard. Today I went to switch it on but nothing happened - it was dead. I put the cable into the mains socket and tried switching it on again, but still nothing. The computer appears a goner.

My question is - if I purchased a new battery would this solve the problem? I don't think it would as I don't UNDERSTAND why it doesn't switch on when the cable is plugged into the mains. I have a feeling that I'm going to have to buy a new laptop.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

GrantBorrow a known good power supply of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there...
If it works replace the PSU.
Do yourself a big favor and don't buy the 20 dollar specials...Hi, I bought a replacement power cable but still nothing...the laptop is still dead Any other ideas what I can do? I have a lot of stuff on there I'd like to get off.

Thanks in advance.

Grantyou didnt mention that. Patio Have you tried useing it plugged into the WALL? Have you tried just running it off the battery?Hi, yes I've tried it both with and without the power cable but the thing's totally dead...I have a lot of DATA and stuff on there which I'd like to access.Get one of these:



2.5" Laptop to IDE converter...about 8 Bucks at any PC store.
This will allow you to connect the laptop HDD to any working Desktop machine to retrieve your important data...Hi, I've looked on eBay and there are several different sizes

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=laptop+ide+converter&_sacat=See-All-Categories

how do I know which one to go for?

ALSO, does this mean that my laptop is kaput and there's no hope for it?

Thanks.I dont recommend e-bay. You could try geeks or newegg's not sure about the hd's in these. You attempting to repair it yourself probably not unless you have experience

Yeah, so... i'm using vista and a bought a memory to use with readyboost and i accidentally kicked it down when i turned my comp on...
I got to the windows log in screen when BSoD came upon me saying there's something wrong with my ram and so on and so on (too fast;didn't read )
then i tried to turn it on again but it restarted immediately and now i can't use anything plugged in to it.
so basically nothing happens when i move the MOUSE, can't press any buttons and the screen does ->not<- work! ofc then i can't use a bootable CD cuz i can't press any buttons or see what i'm doing...

Anyone with tips on what i should do?! and why it's acting this way?! My guess would be drivers or something that it was stupid enough to store on the usb memory card...hm It's only been with me for a year i don't want to trash it and buy a new one. Something more happened here than we've been told...you can disable/enable readyboost off and on and the system should still boot up properly...ye i've been able to take the usb memory out while i'm still in windows and readyboost would kick in all the time when i put it BACK in again. (oh i might add that i just recently discovered that i should use the 'safe-unplugging-thingie'...)

i thought it would be alright if i left it in when rebooting and that worked a couple of times...but the usb came out while the computer was booting before windows log in screen..

Can i use another harddrive and install vista on that and start up the computer that's not working with that harddrive?So, if you unplug the power from your computer for about five minutes, plug it back in, and turn your computer on, which one of these happen:

a) you get nothing on the screen?

Or

b) It POSTs (boot to all the BIOS messages), gets to the Vista splash screen (the little green bar with "(C) Microsoft Corporation" under it), BSODs, then blank screens w. no response?A)!!! i've even tried four hours but nothing =(So, we have power, but no POST.

These always suck, since there's no easy way to determine what's causing it.

1) Remove the CMOS battery from the motherboard (silver THING that looks like a watch battery). Wait about 5 minutes or so, then put it back in. See if it POSTs. If it does, great! If it doesn't, then...

2) Unplug/remove everything from the motherboard except for the following:
- Power supply
- CPU and heatsink
- One (1) stick of RAM
- Video card

See if it POSTs. If yes, goto 3a. If not, goto 3b.

3a) If yes, then add one item back in at a time, and see if it POSTs. Rinse and repeat until either everything works (you're done!) or the computer decides not to POST.

If it doesn't POST, then

a) The component you added in probably caused it not to POST (replace the component in question)
or
b) Your power supply finally hit its operational limit after adding that one component...if so, there may be some merit in someone's frequent (and often patronizing) suggestion in using a multimeter to test your power supply. If the power supply ain't working like it's supposed to, then replace the power supply itself.

3b) Switch the stick of RAM out for one of your other sticks, if applicable. If it works, you're done! Replace the bad stick of RAM. If not, then goto 4.

4) Switch out the video card for another one compatible with your system. If it works, great! If not, then...

5) Switch out the power supply for another one compatible with your system (that's the only thing left other than the CPU and motherboard). If it works, great! If not, then.

6) Remove the motherboard from the case and put it on top of a CARDBOARD box (do NOT put it on top of an anti-static bag--the outside of an anti-static bag is conductive--the inside is insulative). Plug in your power supply, video card, and a stick of RAM and see if it works. If so, great! That means something between the motherboard and computer case is causing a short. Find out what it is (a stray piece of metal, a gold standoff that's not aligned to a screw-hole in the motherboard, etc.). Once that's resolved, you're back in business! If it DOESN'T work, then it's probably the motherboard (it could also likely be the CPU--if you have a spare CPU that's compatible with your board, by all means try it, but if not, don't worry about it). o.o ooh...complicated, but thanks for the help =) I'll try and see what works Okay..hm...so i have those um dunnu what u call them, but all my stuff is built into the motherboard-card. only card in the slots are the network-card. So how do I remove those? and i forgot to mention that prior to my computer failure there were alot of stormy weather. Could that do something like this?

And since i'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to the inside, would it be WORTH sending my computer to someone for fixing? Anyone who knows what a good price to do that would be? And finally would they really be able to fix it?
Sigh~ and it's only a 1 year old infant.... If it's only 1 year old, find out what the warranty is on it and get in touch with the manufacturer.

If it's out of warranty, then it would be worth sending it to a computer repair center.

Not one stream or video file will play!!
I get a picture of the video but it wont play, but I do get sound

When I play the video like on YouTube, my computer still runs WITHOUT lag, slows a little, but i can exit or push the previous page button to get out, so I'm not sure if its CPU..


I have IE, Firefox, and Chrome, but I'm not sure if its internet cause I downloaded videos to see; played them on vlc player; same ****ing problem..

My computer is old .... Pentium III 930MHz, 512 ram .. its a temporary free computer til I get my new one next month or so... but this video problem is frustrating me... my computer runs smoothly, I reinstalled windows last week to wipe everything and start fresh. Smart defraged, used tuneUp, spyware doctor, antivir, updated every driver, installed NEWEST flash player.. nothing wrong with it in those cases. my only guess is the video card, but I cant imagine a video card so crappy? Have a go at these

Hijackthis
Malwarebytes
SAS
CCleaner
Sandboxie


Your computer is lacking in power but if your upgrading then you should do better. They wont speed you up but you can clean up a bit.Ill attempt on cleaning my computer some more..
I have used worse computers and sites like youtube still played fine.
could it be hardware?Have you looked at the memory consumption in task manager? How many processes are using memory and how much?I have downloaded and installed "Process Lasso" and by looking at that and task manager (not at same time) its shows my browsers spiking in CPU! averaging around 55-80%. sometimes I see 99%
Also when moving my mouse it spikes my CPU
I think this would be my problem because Lasso says my CPU is spiking but the responsiveness is 100% Here is my Hijackthis log, maybe it can help?





Logfile of Trend Micro HijackThis v2.0.2
Scan saved at 11:16:56 PM, on 8/2/2009
Platform: Windows XP SP2 (WinNT 5.01.2600)
MSIE: Internet Explorer v6.00 SP2 (6.00.2900.2180)
Boot mode: Normal

Running processes:
C:\WINDOWS\System32\smss.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\winlogon.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\services.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\lsass.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\svchost.exe
C:\WINDOWS\System32\svchost.exe
C:\WINDOWS\Explorer.EXE
C:\PROGRAM Files\Common Files\Apple\Mobile Device Support\bin\AppleMobileDeviceService.exe
C:\Program Files\Bonjour\mDNSResponder.exe
C:\WINDOWS\System32\TUProgSt.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\igfxtray.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\hkcmd.exe
C:\Program Files\Java\jre1.6.0_07\bin\jusched.exe
C:\Program Files\Belkin\F5D7050v3\Belkinwcui.exe
C:\Program Files\Process Lasso\processlasso.exe
C:\Program Files\Process Lasso\processgovernor.exe
C:\Program Files\iTunes\iTunesHelper.exe
C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Messenger\msnmsgr.exe
C:\Program Files\Logitech\MouseWare\system\em_exec.exe
C:\DOCUMENTS and Settings\Jeff\Local Settings\Application Data\Google\Update\1.2.183.7\GoogleCrashHandler.exe
C:\Program Files\iPod\bin\iPodService.exe
C:\WINDOWS\System32\svchost.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\wuauclt.exe
C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Contacts\wlcomm.exe
C:\Documents and Settings\Jeff\Local Settings\Application Data\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome.exe
C:\Documents and Settings\Jeff\Local Settings\Application Data\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome.exe
C:\Documents and Settings\Jeff\Local Settings\Application Data\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome.exe
C:\Documents and Settings\Jeff\Local Settings\Application Data\Google\Chrome\Application\chrome.exe
C:\Program Files\Trend Micro\HijackThis\HijackThis.exe

R0 - HKCU\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Local Page =
R0 - HKLM\Software\Microsoft\Internet Explorer\Main,Local Page =
O2 - BHO: AcroIEHlprObj Class - {06849E9F-C8D7-4D59-B87D-784B7D6BE0B3} - C:\Program Files\Adobe\Acrobat 5.0\Reader\ActiveX\AcroIEHelper.ocx
O2 - BHO: SSVHelper Class - {761497BB-D6F0-462C-B6EB-D4DAF1D92D43} - C:\Program Files\Java\jre1.6.0_07\bin\ssv.dll
O2 - BHO: Windows Live Sign-in Helper - {9030D464-4C02-4ABF-8ECC-5164760863C6} - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft Shared\Windows Live\WindowsLiveLogin.dll
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [IgfxTray] C:\WINDOWS\system32\igfxtray.exe
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [HotKeysCmds] C:\WINDOWS\system32\hkcmd.exe
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [SunJavaUpdateSched] "C:\Program Files\Java\jre1.6.0_07\bin\jusched.exe"
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [WinampAgent] "C:\Program Files\Winamp\winampa.exe"
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [F5D7050v3] C:\Program Files\Belkin\F5D7050v3\Belkinwcui.exe
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [Logitech Utility] Logi_MwX.Exe
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [ProcessSupervisorGUI] C:\Program Files\Process Lasso\processlasso.exe
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [ProcessGovernor] C:\Program Files\Process Lasso\processgovernor.exe
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [QuickTime Task] "C:\Program Files\QuickTime\QTTask.exe" -atboottime
O4 - HKLM\..\Run: [iTunesHelper] "C:\Program Files\iTunes\iTunesHelper.exe"
O4 - HKCU\..\Run: [msnmsgr] "C:\Program Files\Windows Live\Messenger\msnmsgr.exe" /background
O4 - HKCU\..\Run: [Google Update] "C:\Documents and Settings\Jeff\Local Settings\Application Data\Google\Update\GoogleUpdate.exe" /c
O4 - HKCU\..\Run: [ares] "C:\Program Files\Ares\Ares.exe" -h
O4 - Global Startup: Adobe Gamma Loader.lnk = C:\Program Files\Common Files\Adobe\Calibration\Adobe Gamma Loader.exe
O9 - EXTRA button: PartyPoker.com - {B7FE5D70-9AA2-40F1-9C6B-12A255F085E1} - C:\Program Files\PartyGaming\PartyPoker\RunApp.exe
O9 - Extra 'Tools' menuitem: PartyPoker.com - {B7FE5D70-9AA2-40F1-9C6B-12A255F085E1} - C:\Program Files\PartyGaming\PartyPoker\RunApp.exe
O9 - Extra button: Messenger - {FB5F1910-F110-11d2-BB9E-00C04F795683} - C:\Program Files\Messenger\msmsgs.exe
O9 - Extra 'Tools' menuitem: Windows Messenger - {FB5F1910-F110-11d2-BB9E-00C04F795683} - C:\Program Files\Messenger\msmsgs.exe
O12 - Plugin for .spop: C:\Program Files\Internet Explorer\Plugins\NPDocBox.dll
O23 - Service: Apple Mobile Device - Apple Inc. - C:\Program Files\Common Files\Apple\Mobile Device Support\bin\AppleMobileDeviceService.exe
O23 - Service: Bonjour Service - Apple Inc. - C:\Program Files\Bonjour\mDNSResponder.exe
O23 - Service: iPod Service - Apple Inc. - C:\Program Files\iPod\bin\iPodService.exe
O23 - Service: TuneUp Drive Defrag Service (TuneUp.Defrag) - TuneUp Software - C:\WINDOWS\System32\TuneUpDefragService.exe
O23 - Service: TuneUp Program Statistics Service (TuneUp.ProgramStatisticsSvc) - TuneUp Software - C:\WINDOWS\System32\TUProgSt.exe

--
End of file - 4681 bytesI was going to ask: Are there any other processes using a lot of memory at this same time. You can click at the top of the column to arrainge the processes in order (most - to - least).


Quote from: steeper on August 02, 2009, 09:18:30 PM

Here is my Hijackthis log, maybe it can help?

I use VLC player, (i think its the best) but Ive tried different programs to like wmp, winamp, ares, divx, etc.. and streaming is just as bad.

My XP pro Media Ed. computer boots to a CheckDisk run screen on every boot for the past 3 days. The check does not go on for a long time, only 20 sec. The past two days (morning boot-up only) I will only get the background to display and no icons or system try bar will appear. I have to reboot several times then eventually I'll get the full O.S. to load. Ran a full CHECKDISK from the C drive Properties panel. Just redid the display drivers for the ATI Radeon 3870 cards I have. As a side note the HD light on the front of the compuer panel does not blink on any more. Just figured it burned out. That happened at about the same time the boot issues began. Thinking the drive is going bad? The drives I have are WD's (WD1600JS) Think they need replacing? (the MB is a AsusTek Rampage formula rev.1)If you can STILL get the OS to load try a hard drive diagnostic.

http://support.wdc.com/download/index.aspThanks, Karnac...I'm on it!
The OS was FINALLY bootable and I got online.
Downloaded Sandra to make sure of what I got and I'm running the WD Lifeguard Diag. Extended Test.
Be back with results soon.Also make sure to check your purchase dates...i believe those 160G's carried a 3 Year warranty...purchased 1-4-2007. Came with my Digital Storm custom computer purchase. Do I contact DS or WD if the C drive is bad?Got 30 GB left on the drive.
It passed the test.
What else could cause the CheckDisk to run on boot?Contact WD...

But if the drive checked out OK that's not neccessary...

Try the following:

Quote

1. click on your start menu and open the run dialog.
2. type "cmd" and return (note: dont enter quotes)
3. Next type "fsutil dirty query e:"
4. If the return message indicates that the volume is dirty go to step 5
5. Next type "chkdsk e: /f /x"
6. After that finshes repeat step 3.
7. If it is no longer dirty then reboot and you should notice no more
ckdisk.

System Info:
Microsoft XP
Home Edition
Version 2002
SERVICE Pack 3

BUT.... when I LOOK at PROGRAMS, I have microsoft.NET framework 2.0 service pack 2
PLUS Microsoft Framework 3.0 service pack 2.

Should I get rid of one of them? I'm DEFINIITELY no computer geek!
noThank you for such a quick response! Wow, I didn't expect that so soon.

Again,
THANK you very MUCH!

I have a Dell Dimension 4550 (bought in 2003) and while doing routine work, the CPU fan kicked on really high (maximum speed) and stayed on at that level ever since. I checked the whole system for viruses and there were none.

The air blowing out of the machine is not even warm and I doubt that my CPU is overheating. The other ventilation fan at the top of the tower is working normally and the computer functions properly. The heat sink fan is LOUD and annoying. I have scoured the internet and downloaded some PROGRAMS to diagnose the temperature of the CPU, but they are all blocked saying that the Pentium 4 model that I have in this computer is proprietary. I have taken the fan module out, cleaned everything, added new thermal grease to the heatsink and this does not solve the problem. The fan kicks into overdrive the instant the computer is turned on.

Since I doubt the computer is overheating, I am wondering if a temperature sensor has gone out and the default for that is a fan that works on overdrive. Does anyone know a solution to this problem or how to fix it?Try turning smart fan on in the bios, if there is an option for it. If not, have you tried realtemp? http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/
The only other thing you can really do is to try plugging the fan into a different port, or getting a fan controllerI am at work right now, but as soon as I get home tonight I will try out your suggestions.Quote from: eharris on July 23, 2009, 11:21:13 AM

I am at work right now, but as soon as I get home tonight I will try out your suggestions.

I will go ahead and see if Dell has any diagnostic material as "westom" suggestioned.

Glad to have found help....


I am installing winxp on my newly built computer. Boots fine but when I try to install xp, I get the following:

DREADED blue screen telling me.....

A problem has been detected and Windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer.

If this is the first time you've seen this stop error screen, restart your computer. If this screen appears again, follow these steps:

Check for viruses on your computer. Remove any newly INSTALLED hard drives or hard drive controllers. Check your hard drive to make sure it is properly CONFIGURED and terminated. RUN CHKDSK /F to check for hard drive corruption, and then restart your computer.


Technical information:
STOP: 0x0000007E (0xc0000005, 0xF7480BF, 0xF78DA208, 0x78D9F08)

pci.sys - Address F748E0BF base at F7487000, Datestamp 3d7d855c

I am unable to get to safe mode, please help! Is the computer bootable to Windows at all?Quote from: Broni on August 02, 2009, 11:33:30 AM

Is the computer bootable to Windows at all?

Hi. could anyone please help me. I have a new WD 500gb hd INTERNAL. I put it into a enclosure plugged it into the usb port in my notebook and it said it was installing the DEVICE driver but it will not auto START and is not recognized in my COMPUTER. The usb ports on my laptop are running ok, i am using windows vista and i have tried it using a usb2.0 to sata interface. Any help please folks.

Regards
chrisIt may have been shipped unformatted...Windows will not recognise til it's formatted...
Use the WD Data Lifeguard tools to do this...Ok thanks Patio i will try it now

Hi I have a hitachi 1Tb Sata Hdd and a ECS PT800CE-A motherboard with 1 Gb of ram and a Pentium 4--3.4 Ghz running Windows XP. I also have a Seagate 160 GB hard drive on IDE master channel 0 and a Memorex CD drive on IDE channel 1 as slave. The seagate drive is the boot drive. I have SATA controller enabled and set as IDE, not RAID, in BIOS. I do not want RAID. I only want the SATA drive for increased capacity. The problem is the motherboard doesn't recognize the SATA drive. It is installed on SATA1 socket on motherboard. When I don't have the SATA drive hooked up to the motherboard, the device manager shows the SATA/RAID controller as okay. When I hook up the SATA drive to the motherboard, the device manager shows a yellow sign and says there is a problem with the controller and it won't start. I have tried to install drivers but they will not install. I don't know what is going on. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.Try it in a different SATA slot...
What's on this drive ? ?
Does it have an OS installed ? ?i am akwad, according to your analysis guy, you don't need RAID setup, all you need to do is to go to the bios setup of the system and set sata controler as ATA.
Quote from: varget on July 21, 2009, 11:49:50 AM

Hi akwad. My BIOS has 2 choices for SATA. They are either RAID or IDE. I have it set on IDE. There is no ATA option.

I will check the BIOS for SATA settings. Maybe I can try disconneting the boot drive I have on IDE channel 0, master and see if it will recognize the SATA drive I am trying to install. I can boot from the windows XP disk. I think I tried that and the computer freezes.

I contacted the hard drive manufacturer and they said the problem is probably the SATA chipset I have won't handle the faster data transfer speed of the new drive. That is why the motherboard isn't recognizing it. They pointed me to a utility called "Drive Feature Tool" and it makes a bootable floppy to set the drive data transfer speed to 1.5 Gb/sec. instead of 3.0 Gb/sec. When I ran the bootable disk, the computer froze even when I disconnected the SATA drive. I don't know what to try. I am dead in the water. Any ideas? Drive tech support says to buy a newer motherboard!

CD ROM is shown in MyComputer's drive list, it is there in Device Manager as well and have driver installed properly. But it dont detect CD. Also irrespective of CD inserted or not, when I double click on it, it opens as any other hard-disk drive with no content in it. It is not showing message as Insert disc into drive. Please suggest. I'm no expert but I'll try to give you some ideas to check.
SATA or IDE?
Operating SYSTEM?
Motherboard?
Is it ENABLED in Device Manager?
Is there an LED light on the drive to indicate when it's reading data? Is it coming on?
Thanks for giving time
SATA or IDE-- SATA
Operating System-- Windows XP SP2
Motherboard-- INTEL D945GCPE
Is it enabled in Device Manager-- NO
Is there an LED light on the drive to indicate when it's reading data? Is it coming on -- NOQuote from: mdaware on August 02, 2009, 08:24:11 AM

Is it enabled in Device Manager-- NO

hi could someone recommend a good flat screen MONITOR for my desktop.pc...i only got a coulple of year out of my last screen..{samsung syncmaster 710v}..looking for around 15 inch screen..KIND REGARDS thetedDon't know of an specific MODELS but LG make good ones. The LGs are bigger that 15 inch - About 19 but the SURROUND is very thin so they don't take up much space.

Cameron Gray

I wanted to start Windows XP Professional on ONE of my PC's and it got me a error:
Drive not ready - SYSTEM halted
My specs are:
Intel Pentium 4 1.3GHz
Intel d850GB
512MB RDRAM (4*128MB)
30GB IDE hard drive (Western Digital)
Goldstar CD-ROM drive
I have no controller card.

HOW DO I FIX IT?Has your drive been making any strange noises lately? ........ Try replacing the IDE cable.......Also was this HDD SWAPPED out of another machine ? ?

More info.I replaced the IDE cables and it STILL gave the error. I swapped the drives from another machine.Was there an OS installed on it ? ?
If so there is your reason....
Windows can't simply be swapped from one PC to another and be expected to boot properly....
It's looking for the old hardware.

My EXTERNAL hard drive doesn't SHOW up on "My Computer", but when I check "Device Manager", it show up inside "disk drive", and the "Device STATUS" inside the "Properties" shows "This device is working properly". What's wrong?If it has not been assigned a drive letter, it won't show up on My Computer. This is usually done automatically, but not always.
Right-click My Computer
Left-click Manage
Select Disk Mnagement
Find the Disk Drive in the Lower Right Panel
Right-Click, select "Change Drive Letter"
Thank you for your help, Computer_Commando. But it doesn't work. The external hard drive doesn't show up in "Disk Management". Can anybody help?
Is this a new drive?

No. It worked before. I would suggest trying a different USB port, or cable, it is possible that one of them failed.I don't think so. The USB port works with other external hard drive. And, when I connect the hard drive the the computer, the "Safely Remove Hardware" on the right bottom show up. So, I think the cable is OK too.Have you tied it on another computer?I did. It still not work.Did you have the drive set for optimization of performance, or for quick removal?

If it was set for optimization of performance and the cord was yanked the drive could have been corrupted.

Can you read the data on a different computer?Right click it in Device Manager and select Properties....let's hope it doesn't say RAW...Quote from: Quantos on July 31, 2009, 12:18:14 AM

Did you have the drive set for optimization of performance, or for quick removal?

If it was set for optimization of performance and the cord was yanked the drive could have been corrupted.

Can you read the data on a different computer?

Right click it in Device Manager and select Properties....let's hope it doesn't say RAW...

Hey, sorry if this is posted somewhere but I searched a few topics and couldnt find a thread that had the exact problem as I did.

specs:
ASUS M2R32-MVP Motherboard
AMD 3800+ processor
1G Kingston (2x 512mb) DDR2 RAM
160GB WD Hard Drive
ATI Radeon 1600X Graphics Card
400W Power Supply


The monitor will not RECIEVE a signal from the computer when its turned on. It started happening recently and sometimes it'll receive the signal and sometimes it won't (in fact, it worked earlier TODAY).


What I've done ALREADY...
I've tested the graphics card in another computer and it works
I've tried a different monitor with the non-working SETUP and it doesnt work.
I've reset the CMOS (removed battery, changed pins)
I've reseated the graphics card and ram
I've tested the CPU, Motherboard, and Powersupply


The computer runs fine, no beeping. I dont know what could be causing the problem any ideas would be appreciated!Sounds like a short.
When you swapped MONITORS did you use the same power cord?

Hi noob here, My email an[Email Address Removed]. Thanks in advance this is my first post.
Here is the question: I broke my Sony Viao Laptop last week and look to replace it. I HATE Toshiba and Sony LAPTOPS but love HP and Compaq both I get a 20% discount on through a partnership via work. I wanted to get FEEDBACK before purchase on these two processors. 1) AMD Athlon(TM) X2 Dual-Core Processor for Notebook PCs QL-65 (2.1GHz, 1MB L2 Cache) VERSUS 2) Intel(R) Pentium(R) Processor T4200 (2.0 GHz, 1MB L2 Cache, 800MHz FSB)See your other topic for REPLIES.

Quote

While many people do adjust their system clocks to speed up play, doing so affects far more than just the GAMES. Every APPLICATION in your computer is affected, including the file system and Windows system applications. For all of those reasons, we do not recommend changing your computer's system CLOCK to speed up game play.

i opened my PC and it proceeds to the operating system. i was about to open an application when it suddenly shut down. i tried once again but the problem still happened...i decided to check all the fans i have inside the CPU and all are working well. i CLEANED the memory but nothing happened. somebody adviced me to PULL out the processor and clean it. i can't remove the processor but it moved a bit. i tried several times but i really can't. so i just brought the processor back to it's place. when i tried starting the computer, it's not working anymore..i think i just got in much trouble...PLEASE HELP ME!

my mother board is ASUS
HDD 40GB
512 RAM
Windows Professional


PLEASE HELP ME OUT WITH THIS... THANKS>>>THe part you moved is the aluminum "Heat Sink" with the fan on it or the ACTUAL CPU its self?

Wlecome to CHdefinitely!

i was heat sink...
do u have any idea?

Thanks for the reply..Quote

definitely!

i was heat sink...
do u have any idea?

Does you computer start now with everything plugged in correctly?

If the computer does turn on and you can get into windows do this.

Right click My Computer. Select Properties.
On the Advanced tab click Settings button under Start up and Recovery.
Uncheck Automaticaly restart.

This will make your computer bo to blue screen instead of just restarting. Wrote down any error codes and post them back.

Hi,

I currently have 2 HARDRIVES installed in my COMPUTER, one harddrive has vista on it and the other used to have windows 7 installed.(I have just formatted the harddrive that had windows 7 on because I WOULD like to use it as a storage drive) The problem is each time I REBOOT my computer I am still getting the screen prompt that asks which windows I want to boot to. I would really prefer it if just booted straight into Vista without asking me this, Inolonger have windows 7 installed and it's just a bit of a pain to keep getting this message. Thanks! Hi Crafty.
I think simple hiding the Windows7 boot option would be a most simple and safe way.
Right-CLICK on 'My Computer';
select 'Properties';
click 'Advanced system properties' on the left side of the window;
on 'Advanced' tab click 'Startup and recovery' settings;
make sure Your Windows Vista set as default operating system in drop-down menu and clear the checkbox prompting for 'Time to display list of operating systems'.Thanks!!

cd rom POWER conector is good but in cd rom not work it does not any replay
computer has no problem
cd rom indicator not shine cd rom DRIVE MAY be broken. CHECK by changing with known good drive.

I am using an old hard DRIVE as an external drive (from a Gateway 400sd), it has windows on it and I am currently using Vista. I would like to FIND the old e-mails and address on the hard drive so that I can RECOVER them PRIOR to deleting the old files. Where do I locate them. and any other suggestions are welcome
That depends on what operating system and what email client you were using on the old drive...

A little more info would help...THe new laptop has vista the old hard drive uses, windows and the e-mails are on outlook. sorry I did not INCLUDE this info

Take a look here: http://forums.techguy.org/business-applications/297109-where-outlook-contacts-stored.html

Hi. I have taken out my sata hard drive and swapped it for an ide hard drive. I formatted the disk with acer recovery fine, now when the pc starts it says error reading disk. I cannot understand this. My work FLOW is as follows: I took away the sata drive and cables found a ide ribbon cable with THREE connectors one to the board, the second to the ide hard drive set as master and the third to the dvd, set as slave. Can anyone please shed some light why the pc refuses to load windows. Perhaps there is a cmos/ bios setting i need to change. Any help greatly appreciated with regards.

The system is an acer desktop aspire T180
MB=========================Slave========Master.

Or you can try temporarily DISCONNECTING the optical drive to see if it works.

Is there an OS installed on this drive ? ?
If so was it installed on that drive when it was in the Acer ? ?

This can cause issues if it's from ANOTHER machine where Windows was installed....THANKS for your prompt reply. Yes i took out the the dvd drive cable and restarted but the same disk error message. Yes I formatted and reinstalled vista on the drive while in the Acer machine. Any more thoughts please.Check the boot order in the BIOS...should be floppy; CDROM; HDD....

Make sure the SATA is disconnected for now.
The SATA will have to be moved to SATA 3 or 4 slot to ignore the boot options...ok i will try the boot order now, can you explain SATA will have to be moved to SATA 3 or 4 slot to ignore the boot options... how do i do this pleaseCheck your MBoard manual for SATA plug designations...if it's in SATA1 it will still try to boot to that drive.unfortunately I don't have a manual. I have been through the bios looking for away to disable or change the sata setting but cant seem to find anything there. I just reloaded bios defaults but to no avail also. I might try to format again and reinstall vista using my wifes disk, just in case the acer disk has gone pear shaped.
What machine is this ? ?
Most manuf. have the manuals available as a FREE DLoad...
Usually in .PDF format so if you don't have Adobe Reader installed DLoad and install Foxit Reader...also FREE.ok thanks i will look for it.
Got it, it was a faulty ide ribbon cable. Who would of thought that.............Thanks againThat was going to be my next suggestion....nice work !

Have you managed to re-introduce the SATA drive without issues ? ?Thanks for your help patio. Yes no issues, the sata drive just plug and play and establishes itself. Excellent ! !

And Welcome Aboard !

so yeh my computer screen says no SIGNAL and IM getting 2 short BEEPS and 7 longer onesWhat motherboard or type of computer?With the vast amount of info provided this is gonna be a LONG thread...Morse code for Motherboard Has Short? (2 dashes and 7 DOTS)Hmm interesting theory... We will know if its right when we find out the type of computer or the motherboard

my 4 yr old sony VGC-RC110G will not POST. I checked with the mfr's support site..they suggested send in for repair. Before I do that I wish to ask for HELP to do self repair. I believe my ISSUE is a defective bus controller. Is there a work around for this?
Thanks for any help.check the bios settings it maybe is disabledHave a look around here first
http://www.qpci.com/postcodes/phoenixbios.htmI checked the BIOS Post codes. For my bios (Phoenix) it reads out to "press F2...." which I've done. Nothing. It isn't finishing POST. 58 relates to "looking for interupt.." am unsure of what is left to unplug that would cause an interupt to be generated.Maybe I am wrong. Th ePCI Code due next is memory test. I've changed, rotated my ddr memory. However it still stops at 5A . DLoad and run MemTest...let it run at least 2 hours...
Any errors at all and you have a bad stick of RAM.
You will have to test them seperate to determine which one is faulty.To kevapple;Mulreay;patio: Thanks for responding. I had downloaded memtest86 and RAN it before this mess started. . patio: this pc will not finish the POST > so I can retest the memory..thanks all. Please..anyone ELSE have an idea ?I would do as they say....send it to be repaired.

Final result: resisted paying someone else...my time is worth something ! Changed out the video card- resolved problem

Hi,

I am trying to install Microsoft Office 2007, I have TRIED 6 or 7 times now, it gets just over half way through when the computer crashes a stripey screen appears.

The stripey screen has appeared once or twice before but only at random times.

Does anyone know what may be causing this??

Thanks

Beccy Overheating of your GPU. Are you PROPERLY ventilated? Is your machine pushed up against a wall? (I assume its a desktop)Look at your graphics card and if there is a fan check that it is SPINNING. Also clear out dust from any fans.

Cameron GrayJust for future REFERENCE...no NEED for dual posts of an issue.thank you for all your replies! i have recently moved my computer around a bit due to decorating and since i have put it back it had been making quite a lot of noise, so i will definately check the fan out.

thanks again!!


beccy


p.s. i only posted twice as i thought i put the first one in the wrong place!!That's ok let us know how you get on

I have 2 optical drives a DVD-Rom & DVD-rw.They are in a Sony Vaio with xp-pro Sp2. Both worked fine up until i uninstalled a Roxio easy CD creator version 4 that i was having a problem with this morning. Now neither appears in "My Computer".There are yellow exclamation marks beside both in the "Device manager". I don't know if they are related but there are ALSO yellow question marks beside the following "Other devices",SM Bus Controller" and "16550" . I have shutdown/restarted the computer a number of times-no change. I uninstalled (via remove hardware) one of the optical devices. It is found and a new hardware found appears at restart but it doesn't change the outcome. Doing a driver install from hardware says drivers installed are best for the device but no hardware device was found? This has to be a software problem with these 2 drives brought on by the problem with the software uninstall. Suggestions please. truenorthYou may want to try re-installing your MBoard chipset drivers...
This will cause no harm even if they are already installed and may solve the issue...OK will try and find them and will advise.thanks,truenorthOk now the troubles begin. As per the enclosed link you will see the start of them. The model # on the back of the machine is "PVC 7764" (i had this problem a long while ago and did as stated here) http://www.resellerratings.com/forum/tech-support/112513-vaio-pcv7764-drivers.html
Following that model i get: http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/swu-download.pl?mdl=PCVRXA842&upd_id=412&os_id=7&ULA=YES#
Then when i move on and get into the download i get windows telling me
1.This page is not designed to run on this computer.
2.This UPDATE is not intended for use with your computer.
So i am at a dead end here. truenorth
P.S. Just to SAVE some time in case someone comes up with an alternative model number--another search on the "PCV 7764" came up with this; http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/swu-download.pl?mdl=PCVRX850&upd_id=45&os_id=7&ULA=YES
Unfortunately same end result as stated above.

P.P.S. Here is a partial everest scan of the MOBo

Motherboard:
CPU Type AMD Athlon XP, 2000 MHz (15 x 133) 2400+
Motherboard Name Asus A7N266-VX
Motherboard Chipset nVIDIA nForce 220 (DDR)
System Memory 480 MB (DDR SDRAM)
BIOS Type Award Medallion (08/20/02)
Communication Port Printer Port (LPT1)
I'll do some hunting and return...OK more mud for the water. When i go into the BIOS the 2 optical drives are there.Under "Boot" the "pioneer " is listed as "secondary master" and the "Sony" is "Secondary Slave". However they are BOTH listed as "disabled". Don't know why and also don't know how to ENABLE them (nothing seems to present itself to allow the change). Now the real mud. This computer has dual operating systems. Default is to Win xp-pro but win 98 se is also on it. As stated the 2 drives do NOT APPEAR in "my computer-xp" but they both do in win98. Plus although i cannot hear sound in win98 (another problem and i don't care as i never use win98 anymore on that computer) both drives bring up a media player and DO appear to be playing the tracks. So i believe it is safe to say that the 2 drives are not at fault (i didn't believe they were anyway--just don't want to waste CH forum members time chasing that rabbit). I have NOT been able to locate any chipset drivers for the "north bridge motherboard nForce-A7N266VX". Please help.truenorthPatio--thank's i'll be waiting--note my post as you were posting--more info. provided, truenorthTry here: http://driverscollection.com/?H=nForce%20220&By=NVidia

Also...

One of these may help:
1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...
2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
Restart computer.
or...
3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...
4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.YAHOO! Thank you Broni. Back in business. I looked at the "Try here" 1st recommendation 1st.Saw what could be some dire consequences if things went wrong so then went and had a look at 2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060. Opted to try the "let me fix it " option. That fixed it. However noting the caution that some audio player software could be adversely effected by the "fix it" program i was not dismayed that my default player "Musicmatch version 9 " no longer worked properly. That certainly can easily be remedied.
If you don't mind i am going to post your complete reply to me on another post that i was trying to help another user with a similar problem recently. To the best of my knowledge their problem remains unsolved. I shall give the credit where it belongs (to you).Thanks again and thank you too patio for giving my issue your attention. truenorth
Nice job couldn't have done it without your help. truenorth

Hey guys,

Here is my problem. A friend of mine brought his 700GB Seagate SATA HD over to copy some files but we can't get the SATA HD to show up in the My Computer section. The hard drive is recognized in BIOS and even the Seagate Utility application for hard drives recognizes it but it won't add it unless I format it.

Is there a way of accessing the files without formating the drive? Any IDEAS? The SATA shows up as Third Primary Master hard drive in BIOS.

Mobo: ASUS P5P800S

Thanks in advance,

ultimatumHow is it being reported in Disk Management ? ?
Right clik My Computer...select Manage ....then Disk Management .
Right clik the drive and select PROPERTIES...Follow these:
1. Check the jumpers on the hard drive and the motherboard or controller card and check the cables.
2. Format it with a Windows or Linux cd. If you use a linux cd, format it with ntfs.
3. Also, check.device manager if it is shown. I had a simar problem but it was with W2K and a IDE drive.SATA drives do not normally have jumpers...Quote from: patio on July 17, 2009, 07:03:01 PM

How is it being reported in Disk Management ? ?
Right clik My Computer...select Manage ....then Disk Management .
Right clik the drive and select Properties...

Follow these:
1. Check the jumpers on the hard drive and the motherboard or controller card and check the cables.
2. Format it with a Windows or Linux cd. If you use a linux cd, format it with ntfs.
3. Also, check.device manager if it is shown. I had a simar problem but it was with W2K and a IDE drive.

For a while now I've been wanting to figure out how to hook my PC up to my widescreen TV so I can use it as a monitor. I've done a lot of the research already and it seems like a fairly straight-forward process. The problem though, from the tutorials and such that I've read, is that none of them ever seems to mention the exact type of cables you need in order to do this. I've also read that there's at least two different types of cables you can use. One such cable will only let you use very low resolutions. The other type allows higher resolutions. I believe that type is HDMI, of which my video card has a CONNECTION. The TV does as well.

I've tried looking for the cables myself but where I start getting confused is when one cable is listed as "female" and another is listed as "male," some say "15-pin VGA port," while others say to use a "29-pin DVI port"... along with other technical jargon that's a bit beyond me. I'm by no means a computer novice; I've had plenty of experience the last 20 years with them. But the one thing I've never been able to figure out is just which cables I need among what seems like a dozen different kinds.

Basically, my question boils down to this: To use high resolutions on the TV as my PC's monitor, what exact type of cables do I need? LINKS to the proper cables on NEWEGG would be appreciated, as well as any other useful information you might have to offer.

If any of this info is needed to determine what I'd have to get, here are the REST of my specs:

Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 @ 2.66GHz
Memory: 2GB System RAM
Hard Drive: 250GB
Video Card: GeForce 9600GT w/512MB RAM
Monitor: Hanns-G 19" LCD Flatscreen @ 1280x1024
Sound Card: Sound Blaster Audigy SE
Motherboard: ASUS P5N-E SLI

And here's the type of TV I have:

Sylvania 32" HDTV

(The following details found on the back panel)

PC-Input
Audio 10w x2
HDMI x2
LCD Color TV
Model #LC320559 A
Serial #J30883547
120v~
60Hz
155wI have a pc that is hooked up to my Hd television and my cable looks like this > Link below.

Just one end of the cable into the computer graphics card and the other end into the Hdmi slot on the television, then your good to go.

http://www.edgetechcorp.com/Repository/ProductImages/0/dvi-hdmi-cable.jpgOkay, thanks for the pic. Does this mean then that the product I want is called a "DVI HDMI Cable"? (Might seem like a silly question, but I just want to be certain I buy the right thing)Quote from: Shadowtech on July 17, 2009, 01:12:33 AM

Okay, thanks for the pic. Does this mean then that the product I want is called a "DVI HDMI Cable"? (Might seem like a silly question, but I just want to be certain I buy the right thing)

One last thing: I notice on NewEgg that some of these cables say "HDMI Male to DVI Male Extension Cable" and some don't. Is this an important factor?

Quote from: truenorth on July 23, 2009, 07:55:33 AM

... verify that it was the chipset and not the audio drivers.

westcom,did you follow the route i had him do the "driver" search and install?

well i went to the first link for the PC Doctor and i ran the audio test for speakers

I recently discovered that my cdrom player on my computer was not being recognized anymore.

When i go to my computer... the drive (D: drive) is not there!

My CD drive can be pulled out (its a dell computer) and when i PULL it out it makes the disconnect noise...then when i put it back in..it makes the connect noise..


anyways i went to update the driver...reinstall and install it again..but no luck

heres what the properties SAYS..



troubleshoot did not help one bit..and im stuck.

is it a problem with my cd rom player? there are no wires connecting it to the computer..it clicks in.One of these may help:
1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...
2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
Restart computer.
or...
3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...
4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or SECONDARY Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.Quote from: samsam123 on July 31, 2009, 09:38:52 PM

when i pull it out it makes the disconnect noise...then when i put it back in..it makes the connect noise..

I'm not clear on what noise you are referring to. Hopefully you're not connecting and disconnecting a drive with the machine on.

is it a problem with my cd rom player? there are no wires connecting it to the computer..it clicks in.

Hey everyone, I'm planning on building my first ever custom COMPUTER this year and i need some help on the parts. My budget is $2000 (new zealand) so $1300 US. I'll convert everything to USD to make it easier for everyone . And i have no idea about the combatibility of some of the parts. This will primarily be used for gaming and multimedia uses. (no intense graphical design tho )
All components are from my country's price-finder website pricespy.co.nz
So far my plans are the following - don't be too critical, i am new to this game
-AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition 3.2GHz AM3 QUAD core cpu - $294 US
-ATI Radeon HD 4890 1GB graphics card - $229 US
-Western Digital 1TB SATA 7200rpm hard drive - $124 US
-Gigabyte GA-MA790FXT-UD5P Socket AM3 790FX DDR3 - $212 US (is this suitable? should i get ddr3 ram? is this an overkill?)
-SuperTalent 6GB DDR3-1333 CL8 w/Heat Spreader WA133UX6 3x2GB (compatible?) - $130 US
-LG GGC-H20L Blu-ray and HD DVD Reader + DVD Writer SATA - $167 US
-Case, PSU and cooling - need help with deciding
Total - $1156. leaving about $150 for the Case, PSU and cooling. now, i'm not sure whether ive gona the right way by getting ddr3 ram and an am3 motherboard. should i just stick with a am2 and DDR2 ram for now? also that blu-ray drive isn't a necessity. can pick up a good samsung dvd drive for $30 US if you guys think i need more parts.
Any help is appreciated and please keep in mind i'm not the best at these sort of things. By the way, i don't PLAN to overclock this. just for gaming and multimedia

The parts are compatible.

Here's a good suggestion for your cooling, PSU, and case http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.205975hey thanks man, i love that case. hope its available in little old new zealand though . hey any suggestions/reccomendations on my build? will it be good for what i want it? what sort of ram and mobo? and what about my cpu choice and graphics card? any help on any of these would be good. i really am a noob when it comes to this. thanks again, JaredQuote from: jaredofnz on July 31, 2009, 08:26:11 AM

hey thanks man, i love that case. hope its available in little old new zealand though . hey any suggestions/recommendations on my build? will it be good for what i want it? what sort of ram and mobo? and what about my cpu choice and graphics card? any help on any of these would be good. i really am a noob when it comes to this. thanks again, Jared

Great, looks like a go then. here's the link to the mobo http://pconlineshop.co.nz/pcshop/product_info.php?products_id=296909 . according to them it can have 16gb of ddr3 memory if i read it correctly. what about running dual graphics cards instead? or adding another 1 later? is that possible with this build? thanks again man.

The Asus Xonar DX AUDIO card which I recently purchased requires power by way of a 4-pin connector. The supplied cable with the audio card has a 4-pin connector on one end and a wide 4 pin male connector on the other end. The power supply on my Dell Studio XPS 435MT only has one free cable marked P7, with 2 rows of 3 holes on each row. Can the P7 cable be used to provide power to the audio card if I can find the correct adapter cable for the cable which came with the audio card, and if so, where can I purchase this type of adapter cable. I need a site which shows pictures of the cables so that I know I am purchasing the correct adapter cable.The "wide 4-pin male connector" sounds like a standard Molex connector. The 4-pin female connector is a standard FLOPPY disk DRIVE connector which is connected to the audio card at the top Rh corner of the image below:



The Molex male connector should be connected to a Molex female connector. As you don't have any spare connectors get a Molex 'Y' to split a power supply as below:



ANOTHER consideration, check that your power supply is rated high enough to handle any extra loadings you have already put in place.

Good luck

The power supply is 360 watts. I do not know the brand name. The power supply does not hav a Molex female connector. If it did, I have access to a Y-cable. I will probably exchange the Xonar DX for one of the Sound Blaster PCIe audio cards which do not require power from the power supply.
Get a Molex splitter. unplug one of the other DEVICES- connect the splitter, and then connect one of the "split" ends to the device you unplugged.

Now use the other free molex for the floppy/molex splitter.

I just built a new computer with the following specs:


Intel Core i7 920 Processor
Corsair 850 Watt Power Supply
EVGA NVIDIA GTX 275 Graphics Card
G.Skill 6GB Triple Channel DDR3 Memory
320 GB Seagate Harddrive
Zalman CPU Cooler
Antec Twelve Hundred Case


I finished the build 2 days AGO and have since loaded all the drivers and everything seems to be running properly except for the game I play, Call of Duty: World at War. i have done all the patches and updates for the game and when I get to the main menu for the game my mouse cursor begins to move very slowly and not respond as it usually does. Once I get into actual gameplay everything is extremely laggy and stutters and skips frames constantly making the game completely unplayable. I hooked the computer this new build replaced and it runs the game without a hitch and everything about this new build is better. i am trying to figure out what the issue may be since all else is running properly like surfing the internet and such. i am completely CONFUSED on this and it is extremely frustrating. Does anyone have any ideas as to what is causing this and POSSIBLE solutions?Have you checked your temps while gaming ? ?I don't know how to during gameplay to be honest but when doing other things the utility is saying between 27 and 33 DEGREES Celsius for the CPU temps.

My AST Premmia MX P/60 (first gen pentium) computer is MISSING the CMOS battery pack. The battery pack configuration consists of 3 AA rechargable batteries. I Use to have the battery pack put removed it a long time ago because it was bad and I misplaced it. The problem now is FINDING a replacement. I decided to use a 3.6V battery pack from a cordless phone but I have to determine which pins to connect the battery too. There are 3 pins, 2 close together and 1 by itself. I don't want to connect it backwards. I tried using a volt meter but I can't really GET any good readings. All 3 pins give me a reading of what looks like .83 MILLIVOLTS I believe.

Anyone know of a good walkthrough on how to install fans in a computer? I just bought a 120mm fan
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999122

For "Manual Speed Conrol" the instructions say
- Remove the JUMPER and attach the speed control connector.
- Replace the fan speed conroller to free PCI slot.

I put the speed controller in an empty PCI slot and opened up the panel in the back of the tower for ACCESS. As far as any other connections, what the fan plugs into, what a "jumper" is, I'm totally clueless. If you know of a good guide, I'd appreciate it. Otherwise I can take a picture of my tower later and get some answers that way. Didn't see much information on Thermaltake's website.
Here you go

http://www.ehow.com/how_5208781_install-desktop-computer-cooler-fan.html




Nice, I'll try to run through those steps tomorrow when I take another crack at it. I tried hooking it up without any instructions to go by and the fan is just running constantly, the manual control doesn't affect the speed. I'll see what I can do with it when I crack open he case again.

Also, I have a question about the air flow. My computer only had one case fan, located on the side near the top, sucking air in. I bought two fans, as there is a spot for one on the side at the bottom, and also one in the rear a the top. Any recommendations on which fan should do what?Heat rises. In from the bottom out from the top.Like I said, the stock fan that came with the computer is on the side at the top and sucks air in, do you think this should be switched around? Mistake on the manufacturer's part, or is that just the best way to do it when there is only one case fan?One more question, what is a "jumper?" I read "Full speed when jumper is on" and "remove jumper for manual control." I'd be happy with using the manual-control dial, how does that affect the wiring? Not really interested in using the temperature control.Figured it out myself through TRIAL and error. Also managed to scare the heck out of myself by PUTTING the thermal sensor under the heatsink, and then having the computer stop in the middle of the boot sequence due to CPU temperature warning. Hands-on approach is better than following conceited forum lackeys anyway Quote

Hands-on approach is better than following conceited forum lackeys anyway Grin

I hope this is the appropriate board for this situation... Anyways, I was LOOKING at this laptop and it says it has an ExpessCard slot. I LOOKED it up, and on the ExpressCard website it says it has functionality for PCI Express cards. But the graphics card I'm looking at to upgrade, looks slightly too big... (There's a nvidia 9800m graphics card I'm looking to BUY from my friend.) So, I was wondering, is there any way to use this card without paying for a $750 adapter? I've built a few computers before but I don't have the slightest clue about laptops If you want I have a link to the page of the laptop on BestBuy.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=9171497&st=1365dx&lp=1&type=product&cp=1&id=1218044489891

Thank you in advance Hope I'm allowed to bump here....NP...
But just off the top of my head i would say if you are looking to add a vid card to a laptop 2 things will happen:

1) You will spend some serious cabbage...

2) You will be dissapointed at the results.My FRIENDS giving me the 9800m for $100 so I'll still have plenty of cabbage TY for the reply

My system is a little bit dated but I think I can make some great upgrades before I look into building a NEW one. I'm a pretty avid gamer so my current setup is having more and more difficulty supporting some of the new titles. Please take a look and give me any suggestions and comments, esp if there are any bottlenecks I'm unaware of or if I could spend the money better somewhere else.

Current:
Asus M2n SLI Delux Mobo SOCKET AM2
AMD Athlon 64 x2 4200+
4gig (3.25) DDR2800 RAM
2x Nvidia 7900GS in SLI
WD 500gig HD
Windows XP Home (32 bit)

I plan on replacing:
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+
GPU: Single ATI 4890 based card... manufact undecided.

And just one question... Should I go for some of the faster AM2+ or AM3 socket CPUs? From what I could gather, the performance will suffer on an AM2 socket but I can never find out how much.

OR do I just go for an XBOX 360? Ah, decisions, decisions.and what power supply do you use? That's important when figuring out what hardware you can upgrade.I'm using an Antec 550W. It has the dual 6pin PCI-E power connectors for the vid card so I think I'll be alright there.Ya the psu should be ok. But thast cpu will be a bottleneck to that gpuQuote from: computeruler on July 30, 2009, 04:33:18 PM

Ya the psu should be ok. But thast cpu will be a bottleneck to that gpu