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Hi, I have a Dell INSPIRION 5150 3 GHZ 528 mbs. That seems to always overheat. They had an issue with the way they were BUILT that would cause them to overheat. So I opened it up cleaned everything and put artic silver on the processor. Well the computer still overheats. So I have to use a program to clock down the processor. Any ideas what to do now? Oh yeah and I called up Dell about the issue and told me I was sol.Does it over heat if you just turn it on and leave it alone? If it is ok by itself what are you doing when it starts to over heat? Can you see/hear the fans running or feel air coming out of the exhaust vents?it overheats when I start to watch videos. Yes the fans are on. I use a program to control fan speed and put them on max so it won't overheat as fast.What I personally did was put the laptop somewhat HIGHER. Attach those rubber thingies at the feet of FURNITURE if you know what I mean at the four corner of the laptop. This will help somewhat. If that doesn't solve the problem, I'd put a fan next to the laptop.I think you've tried almost everything I could suggest.
Raising it off the surface for more airflow as Kalenden suggests should help - if not, I don't have any more ideas.
Did applying the Arctic Silver not help at all?

Computer boots up normally, but the monitor shows no signal. Yes, the cables are connected correctly and my video card is installed correctly. My computer just randomly STOPPED displaying anything a couple days ago. I've had it for a while so I don't know why it's doing this now.

It's a rather crappy PC but it runs well. Specs:

GQ 7000
Windows XP Pro Media Center 2005 SP3
3.01 GHz
2GB RAM
80GB HD
NVIDIA GeForce FX 5500 256MB

Don't know what else to list. It just happened all of a sudden. It was working fine for the past couple years and then just Friday it died on me.

I KNOW it's the computer because I've tested the monitor on a different computer and it worked. I also plugged the computer into a monitor that works, but it did not display.

I've also tried plugging the monitor into the old port with my integrated graphics card. It still does not work. Perhaps something is not connected correctly internally?

The power supply recently died, which I had to replace and it works now. Except, there is "no signal" on the monitor. May be something with the power supply? Shouldn't be though...

I've gotten replies on other forums about TRYING 1GB RAM, removing graphics card and using integrated, computer beeps (there are none). My graphics card does not seem DAMAGED; the capacitor does not look blown.

Maybe the computer simply is not booting up? I don't know how to tell though.

Any ideas?When you replaced the power supply, you may have gotten something wrong.
Did it work at all after your replaced the PSU?No, but it didn't work before. Like on Friday it stopped working and would turn off before even booting up, with nothing showing on the monitor. It didn't work after, obviously.

My uncle says something with the jumpers so he's gonna take a look at it tomorrow. Hopefully it will be solved.Quote from: AndreTheAzN on December 15, 2008, 10:02:12 PM

My uncle says something with the jumpers so he's gonna take a look at it tomorrow.

Can anyone recomend me a good harddrive but i dont want a velociraptor not got the MONEY. (Split from another TOPIC)
How much do you want to spend?
What's your definition of "good" for a hard drive? Capacity/ Speed/ longevity/ Warranty?
What interface do you want/what are your current specs?My PERSONAL choice is Western Digital...

No problem with me.WD sucks,,,,, likewise Samsung, Fujitsu and whatever.

The only HD's I put in any of the computers I build is Seagate or Maxtor.
(now the same company).

That's based NOT on one or two PC's, but years of experience with hundreds of computers.

good luck,
Shadow

Well.... I like Western Digital

SINCE my good ol' 286's 41MB Western Digital HD.

TheShadow- do you know if newer WD drives still.. err... "suck"?

(That wasn't a challenge or anything... just a query Years ago, WD was a reputable brand, but their quality and reliability has gone to #$%& the past few years.
In my business, almost every HD I have to replace is a WD.

I can't afford to work from personal PREJUDICE, but from real world experience with hundreds of PC's, not just one or two.

Using only top quality products is what's kept me in business for 29 years.

Use whatever you like.

and, Good Luck,

OK... Thanks shadow I guess when this one fails I try a different brand myself as well Quote from: TheShadow on February 08, 2009, 09:20:00 AM

WD sucks,,,,, likewise Samsung, Fujitsu and whatever.

I am trying to decide what type of graphics card to go with and am trying to get what I need and not overspend or underspend. If I play games such as Red Alert 3 and am intending on playing The Sims 3, what type of card would you recommend that will allow me to have great graphics (HIGH or ULTRA HIGH) on these games. I don't believe I will be playing games like Crysis or other games such as that. Also, I am building this so it will most likely be paired with an AMD 9850 Quad-Core and EITHER 4GB or 8GB of DDR2-800 (PC6400) memory on Vista 64-bit.


Thank you in advance.Would assume you will be looking to use a PCI Express graphics card?

I myself, like, Nvidia cards. But that's just me.I am using a PCI Express 2.0 slot.The Nvidia GeForce 9 series graphic cards are PCIE 2.0 compliant.

I would use a ati radeon 4850 or if you can afford it a ati radeon 4870.You will not need a high SPECIFICATION computer to play those games.
Your quad core CPU will more than handle RA3 - it likes multiple cores.
Something like a Geforce 9500GT or Radeon 4670 would be great, maybe even a little overkill.
If you think you might play some more intensive games though I'd recommend a much STRONGER card - the Radeon 4850 offers just about the best performance/cost ratio right now and I personally would find it hard to recommend more unless you're playing some very intensive games.
Your other intended components are quite high-end too - if those games are the most taxing tasks you'll be doing, I'd advise you to downgrade and save some cash. If you're doing somehting else that's quite CPU and RAM intensive though, that CPU and amount of RAM might be necessary.

Recently I purchased two new bare bones computers from Tiger Direct. I'm not an expect but I know to check cables, etc before loading them up. Computer no.1 was put together with no problems, load up my operating system etc, with absolutely no problems. Computer no.2 HOWEVER was put together ok, no extra fans, etc other than the power supply fan.
Computer no.2 has no os on it since the harddrive is clean, etc -virgin.
I got it to turn on while bootingup from the CD. The only problem is it shuts off as soon as it powers up almost. SOMETIMES I might get one PAGE on the screen or sometimes maybe not that far. I bought new power cables thinking that might be the problem. No such luck. Now I have the mystery of why it shuts down before loading. etc.
Can someone help.??
Jimmy
[Email removed to prevent SPAM]
2 most common causes of this is the THERMAL Paste was not applied and/or the MBoard standoffs are not all in place and the board is shorting to the case...LOL I would certainly say that computer No. 2 will REQUIRE fans, because the CPU is overheating even before you can do anything.

Add some fans in first, then try to boot.

My DSL modem frequently drops out. I'm not SURE if this happens when I change pages or if I only notice it when I change pages. The phone company that provides the modem INSISTS I need to REBOOT it. How can I determine if it's them that needs a boot or if I need another modem? I don't have another modem to switch it with. Other people where I live have similiar problems, but with various phone companies. People who have cable internet also have problems, with various cable companies.Make sure you have a DSL line filter on every phone line in the house whether you use it or not...
Your local PC shop will have about a million of them and will probably give you a handful for 5 Bucks.

The Speedstream modems heat up pretty fast so move it away from any heat sources if you can.

If after doing these steps the symptoms still are there demand a new modem from your provider ...tell them you may switch your service.
This usually leads to a high motivation factor on their end.
You can also request a line test which they run from their location that can tell you the condition of the phone lines in your AREA...
Where i am everything up to the outside of the structure is their responsibility and everything inside is yours.
Check your service agreement...Quote from: patio on December 12, 2008, 09:44:05 PM

DSL line filter on every phone ... modems move away from any heat sources...

... demand a new modem from your provider... request a line test ...

Sorry if in wrong place.1st time & novice. I have disk,navigate THRU install. Then fail to complete.Window states to upgrade Operating System. I've used successfully on : me/xp but with VISTA I'm unsuccessfull SAYS nothing about VISTA support....are you sure it is supported???

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&docname=c00420495&dlc=en&lc=en&jumpid=reg_R1002_USEN

I have a HP Pavillion dv8000, windows XP, service pack 3, 1.73GHz, 1 GB RAM.
The DVDCD ROM Drive is a TSST Corp TS-L532M.
It always worked fine, but now when I try to play a DVD the sound is jumpy, the picture is fine though. Any music I play from the hard drive SOUNDS fine. Even If I rip the DVD and play it from the hard drive it sounds fine. I tried setting the sound to analog, that didn't work. I installed NERO 9, maybe that did something?What player do you use?HP Media Center.Try VLC Player: http://www.videolan.org/vlc/, and see, if same thing happens.Ok, Ill do that and post what happens. We'll be here I downloaded and installed the player and the same thing happens. DVD drive lens may be dirty. Try lens cleaner.That didn't work either maybe some thing wrong with codecs?
try full packsWhere do I get full packs?I doubt this is codecs problem, because VLC has all codecs BUILT in. That's why, I asked you to try it.
Besides, the MOVIES play fine, when played from HD.
You said something about Nero. Are you saying, that the sound was fine, before you installed it?
You may simply have DVD drive problem.
Just for a heck of it. Try to play some MOVIE in Safe Mode, using VLC.erocktattoo,While it may seem obvious it has not been stated so i will. Uninstall the Nero suite (from add/remove programs) and then try your DVD and tell us what happens.Do not reinstall Nero until after you have reported back.truenorthI uninstalled nero and its still jumpy. Could it be service pack 3 causing the problem?Did you try VLC in Safe Mode?

Got an absolutely awesome build lined up - graphics tablet included (although I don't know if it's any good), dual monitors, fantastically powerful.
I checked it against a few different well known companies, and, well, let's just say they didn't come close to matching it in either performance, price or overall quality. It came within your £5k BUDGET, and could easily be cut down to save a TON of cash if you like, whilst still remaining an extreme performance computer.
I'm feeling tired right now, not really up to posting all the links and doing the tags etc, but I'll post it tomorrow when I've checked over it once again, checked prices, maybe researched graphics tablets a little. Someone may need to poke me and remind me if it doesn't appear.tablet link? Wacoms are the ones to getI figured Wacom was a good brand, as that's all that was on offer at this specific online store.
If it's no good (I picked one that looked good but as I say I know nothing about them) then it can always be discarded.

Well, here goes a build:
Intel Core i7 920 CPU - £241.49
Gigabyte GA-EX58 Extreme motherboard - £287.49
2 x Corsair 6GB (3x2GB) Dominator 1600MHz DDR3 RAM - £377.18
Coolermaster CM Storm Sniper case - £137.99
Be Quiet! Dark Power Pro 1200W modular PSU - £218.49
2 x Acer G24 24" WIDESCREEN LCD - £611.78
2 x BFG Geforce GTX 295 - £873.98
OCZ Vertex 120GB SSD - £390.99
WD Caviar Black 1TB HDD - £98.89
MS Windows Vista 64 bit Ultimate - £155.24
Wacom Cintiq 12WX LCD Tablet - £862.49
Samsung 22x DVDRW drive - £16.09
Thermalright Ultra 120-Extreme Black CPU cooler - £40.24
Thermalright 1366 Bolt-through kit - £8.04
OCZ Freeze thermal PASTE - £3.44
3 x Noctua NF-S12 fans - £41.70
Akasa 22cm fan - £12.64
Logitech G15 keyboard - £57.49
Logitech G5 mouse - £35.64
Everglide Titan MonsterMat mousepad - £18.39
Logitech X-5500 5.1 speakers - £187.44
Sennheiser PC350 headset - £91.99

Total price: £4798.74 +shipping (not totally accurate as the WD HD is out of stock, but around £32)
There are plenty of areas to cut back a little and save a lot, and also areas where you could push a little further.
I'm checking around a few manufacturers, and they're still not coming close.

No idea if this will persuade you (the OP) to go custom built or not, but I gave it my best shot.
As always, everyone please feel free to question my decisions, ask why I chose "x" component, or suggest improvements, I'm always willing to listen and learn.That tablet is great! I want one of those cheap wacoms with no screenSorry such slow reply on my behalve, have been all over the place with this 3/4+ snow I got going on around where I live, novelties worn off now so hopefully it should go soon.

Anyway, I need to look into the product thats I am capable of understanding (dual monitors, graphic tablets, few other bits and bats that to me and the work I do matter if you get my drift) the rest I'd prefer to sit down with something who is genuine and honest and tell me what the script is with the individual product, the advantages, disadvantages etc. I am not sure my direction, I don't think I'd like to deal with a website that does the build for you with all the separate parts as my knowledge is very little in certains parts, so poss going to a local independant company rather than a chain store that refuses to give me discount if I am spending a good couple of grand with them.

wish i had 5k to play with Joshuashaw, we can explain a lot of things here, if you ask us about the individual items you'd like to know more about.
Other than that, there are a lot of reviews out there on most products, it's just a matter of finding a trustworthy source that gives the information on what you need.
Local INDEPENDENT stores can be good, however things to consider would be the quality of the after-sales support they give you and how much experience they have in custom building systems, especially high-end systems. Also, if they're quite busy your build may get delayed by quite a bit.
Just some things to think about anyway, I'm sure you've already gone into this but it doesn't hurt to have a reminder.

Hi, hope someone can help with this message which pops up on my toolbar every few weeks. It says "USB mass storage peripheral is a high debit, and will function at reduced speed when connected to a low debit port". It then tells me which high debit ports are free for use. It shows a graphic of the ports coming from Intel (R) 82801G (ICH7 family Enhanced controller 27CC. Only one of 8 ports is USED, for the pc itself, the others are free. I don't understand this message as a) I am an idiot where computers are concerned and b) I am in FRANCE and the message is in French, and whilst I know French it makes things a bit more tricky.

I have a Fujitsu Siemens Scaleo H Intel Pentium D, running Windows XP Home, SP3. Can anyone offer any information? Many thanks

Sharon, deepest FranceThis simply means it is detecting a USB 2.0 device on a USB 1.1 port which is slower than USB2.0...
Check your MBoard manual to see which ports are 2.0 if any and use those...
If not you can always install a PCI/USB card which will have USB 2.0.Hi and very many thanks for such a quick response. Unfortunately I don't appear to have a MBoard manual so I am NONE the wiser. However, presumably if the peripheral is PLUGGED into a USB 1.1 port, that is all I have on my PC. I wonder if the peripheral referred to is the AOL box, which of course is broadband which would explain the "high debit" reference.

I will check out about getting the card you mention, as anything that makes the internet faster for me would be welcome. We are in the middle of nowhere here and so we only have slow 'broadband', 512K. Many thanks again for your help.
In the context of USB data transfer, the French phrase haut débit has the same meaning as the English phrase "high speed". It is also applied to internet connections such as ADSL and cable.

As patio says, that advisory message is shown when a high speed usb 2.0 device is connected to a low speed usb 1.1 port. However, at first glance, the Fujitsu Scaleo H seems to have usb 2.0 ports, according to Fujitsu's spec sheet. Indeed the Intel 82801G chipset contains a usb 2.0 controller. Have you got an external HARD disk or pen drive connected, and is it connected through a hub or directly?? Those 8 ports make me wonder if you are using a hub?





Hi and thanks very much for your message. No, I don't have an external hard disk, and ashamed to admit I don't know what a pen drive is, or about being connected via a hub. The Scaleo manual does talk only about UBS 2 devices. Actually looking back at the message, I see that I do indeed go via a hub - it says

"Intel (R) 82801G (ICH 7 family) USB2 Enhanced Controller 27CC" - and then underneath it says "USB Root Hub (ports " and then it lists the 8 ports and shows the sixth as being used for "Fujitsu Siemens Computer WLAN 802.11b/g D1705/1706". Finally it says
"Recommendation, disconnect the USB mass storage peripheral from its current port and reconnect it to one of the ports indicated".

I wonder which peripheral it is. I have the AOL box, HP PSC 1510 printer/scanner, keyboard of course, wifi mouse. I have other things I use from time to time that I plug into the USB ports at the front of the tower. The message doesn't appear at any particular time, as far as I can see - a mystery! Well if you can shed any light it would be much appreciated.
Sharon
Could be an mp3 player, a camera, a phone, etc. If the message comes and goes it's probably something you plug in and then take out again. I wouldn't worry about it if everything's working OK.

Quote

WLAN 802.11b/g D1705/1706

it looks the same as the "clé USB"

Hey guys, I'm not sure if this is a hardware issue or not, but I decided to put this thread here. Just recently I sold one of my spare computers to a friend of mine. The computer worked fine when I had it (and still works fine apart from this issue) but I just got an email from my friend telling me that whenever he tries to view a video on youtube in full screen it freezes the computer and he has to restart it. (by holding down the POWER button, ctrl, alt, delete doesn't work.) Any ideas of what might be causing this?

The PC specs are:
2.8GHz Pentium 4
2 GHZ DDR RAM
120 GB hard drive
GeForce 7300 (i believe)
WINDOWS XP w/ SP2

Let me know if I'm forgetting any specs or anything. Thanks guys!What browser is being used, what version, and if the problem persists in both IE and Firefox.The browser is Internet Explorer 7. He doesn't have firefox INSTALLED I don't think.here's what i found that helped me when i had the exact same issue.

Right click the video player when its paused or in small mode and go to settings, from there uncheck the "Enable Hardware Acceleration" check box, to where it is turned off.

that simple procedure has saved me a lot of time and frustrations.Since the machine has been moved have him re-seat the vid card and the RAM sticks...
As always when working inside the case remove all power sources and take anti-static precautions...March 08 Nice catch...i'd still like to know why you would want to turn off hardware accelleration...Quote from: patio on February 07, 2009, 07:21:46 AM

Nice catch...i'd still like to know why you would want to turn off hardware accelleration...

This still makes no sense but i'm glad it worked in your case...

The type of video format has nothing to do with whether hardware acceleration works or not...hardware acceleration uses available resources to run hardware properly.

March 08 Shocked

« Reply #1 on: March 27, 2008, 09:30:22 AM »

System: window XP Professional version 2002 SERVICE pack 3. CPU: Amd Atholn 64X2 5000+ 2.61 GHz.
2.00 GB of RAM. Norton 360.(up to Date). Have real window xp PRO CD. 300 Gb hard drive (SEAGATE)

Hello to any one that can help:
You forgot to state your problem

Looking for a PCI (not PCEe) Video CARD with at least 128mb, DVI interface, 9.0 DirectX support & XP & Vista DRIVERS. MOTHERBOARD does not have AGP or PCIe slots. I am replacing my video card on a computer on which I dual-boot Windows XP & Windows 7 beta build 7000. What available video cards meet these criteria?31 pages: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=PCI+Video+CardThis should be helpful if looking at cards with nVidia graphics chips: http://www.nvidia.com/page/technology_vista_home.html. I see two GeForce 8400's in the newegg OFFERINGS, both priced at $60.

Everytime I unplug anything from the USB ports on the front of the pc, the whole computer shuts down! I have no idea what to do. and yes, I've searched for answers with no luck. Thank you!Sounds like the USB header connectors on the front are hooked up improperly or there's a short.
Review the MBoard manual but for now i'd stop using it.Thanks, PATIO. How can I tell if it's a short? Can I leave the plugs in the ports? (after I figure out why they're not working)... Do the DRIVERS for the cam and pda affect them? What I mean is, do I have to use one port for say, the camera, and another for the pda, etc? or are they interchangable?



CONGRATS Cica on being the person to post the 500,000th post. USB stands for Universal SERIAL Bus so yes they are interchangeable.
On many many manufactured machines the manuf. scrimping on costs wound up with underpowered front USB hubs...
So if you can use the rear ports do so.thanks again, Patio. There are 4 ports in the back but all are in use: one is the A drive, one is the printer/scanner, one is the mouse, one is the keyboard. There are 4 ports in the front.They have addon PCI/USB cards that are simple to install and would add up to 6 more USB slots on the back of the machine...relatively INEXPENSIVE.

hi there
I've just taken on the task of building a computer, and i get this message over and over I have tried evrything that i could think of, hopeing someone can help me
asus -p5kpl-cm motherboard
intel e1400 2.0 ghz processor
seagate 250g hdd
dvd
cd
floppy
the bios sees all hardware, i've tried re-arranging boot devices,
I was told to disable raid but i can't seem to find it in bios
trying to install windows xp pro
will i need a boot disc and if so where WOULD i find it
thank youAre you installing an OS clean or trying to boot a drive that had an OS on it ? ?
If clean set the CDROM as the first boot device...insert your Windows CD and re-boot.

Is the Seagate a SATA drive ? ?

Who said to disable RAID ?

More details on what you are doing are needed.the hard drive is sata, everything is clean, I put cd ROM as 1st but still nothing, the cd and dvd drive is ide,Is this the Sharpie version of an XP CD ? ?yesThis is why it won't boot most likely...
Grad a legit XP CD and go from there.

P.S. Very early on in the XP setup you will see a bottom of screen prompt stating "Press F6 to install additional drivers" ...at this point press F6 and insert a floppy/CD with the SATA /RAID drivers...these can be DLoaded from your MBoard manuf. website.thanksGood LUCK and keep us posted...
BTW Welcome Aboard !

Hi,

I was wondering how I can tell if adding 1GB PC800 RD RAM ($40) up from the existing 128 MB's on an old Pentium 4 1.3 GHz, 400 MHz Bus, 256 KB Cache RAM processor will make any real difference in terms of speed?

I could also upgrade to a 1.7 GHz, 400, 256 Processor for $6 and some fun, would that make any difference?

I am not sure what the specs tell me in terms of relative speed as compared to my newer dual core AMD 2 GHz processor with 2 GB PC3200 DDR RAM. I mean I know it is faster but what spec(s) are important in comparing one type of CPU to another across older and newer technology so I can understand where I am with the old one, where I can take it, and then how that compares to what I have that is newer?

The other thing I was wondering (with regard to my newer PC) is what I need to check to ensure COMPATIBILITY of adding another video card (PCI) (for yet more monitors - well another monitor and a TV) to my existing setup with a multi monitor capable PCI express card (running 2 monitors on now)? I am not talking about what inputs / outputs I need but what I need to do to ensure compatibility with PCIe and PCI so they can be used together...

Phew, thanks for any insight!

MattIs Windows XP the OS on that computer? If so, going from 128MB to 1GB will make a huge difference.

And, I you can get the 1.7 GHz processor for only $6, I'd go for it. However, replacing only the processor and not increasing memory will not yield much of a boost.

You're currently running two monitors off your PCI express card, right? And, you want to add a third monitor and a TV? YES, a PCI video card should work. I think getting a PCI card with a GRAPHICS chip from the same manufacturer (ATI, or nVidia) as your PCI express card reduces the chances of any driver conflict, but I'm also sure there are many mixed (ATI, nVidia) configurations that are working fine.Hi, yes XP OS. Wow going from 128 mb to 1 Gb is incredible!!! thanks!

Yes, and the PCI card WORKS too!

Again, thank you VERY much!!!

Matt
Thanks for the feedback. Glad to hear the outcome of your upgrades.

I have a medion 500G hard drive. I use windows Vista HOME edition. When I start up my PC at times the HD is not found.At other times I get a message saying that Files are missing or CORRUPTED and I cannot access the drive. If I format the drive it works for some time and then the fault reoccurs. What can I do to rectify the PROBLEM. Obviiously the HD is not much use if I have to format it every couple of weeks.
Many thanks for any help you can offer.Medion makes laptops and desktops...but not hard drives.
To find out what type of drive this is DLoad and run Everest Home (FREE)
This will tell you what all components are in that machine.
Once it's determined what manuf. the drive is travel to their site and DLoad and run the FREE diagnostics on that drive...
As it is a 500G it's probably not that OLD and may still be under warranty...
Good Luck and let us know...Quote from: patio on February 05, 2009, 11:39:16 AM

Medion makes laptops and desktops...but not hard drives.

Try the drive on another machine...
I believe as Broni did it may be locked down for external drives...Well, it'll take a few hours to get ahold of a different computer, but i'll try that. LIKE i mentioned before though, i was using this hdd just fine, and then a few hours later it decided to test my PATIENCE. Being a Marine this should make perfect sense.....

Thanx for SERVING BTW ! !

patio.Just TRIED the hdd another computer, same exact issues as before.

I appreciate your support Patio, thank you very much.Does the external case appear damaged at all ? ?
Some are somewhat EASY to open up to check the wiring is all seated properly.Nothing appears damaged, and in fact i have tried the drive with several different enclosure/readers. Sounds like it has simply failed...you could DLoad and run the diagnostics from the drive manuf. site to verify this.

I have 2 internal drives. I shutdown the computer, Windows Vista, then pulled the power connector on the 2nd HD. Turned on comp. all worked fine. Shutdown and put power conn. back on 2nd HD, now it will not detect either HD or CD in BIOS unless I once again remove the 2nd HD power conn. Did I mess it up by not REMOVING IDE cable ? No Jumpers were touched, maybe windows thinks it's defective & will not recognize ?
did you fiddle with any jumpers in the process?Are both hard drives on the same IDE ribbon?As you have been fiddling about with the BIOS I'm going to assume that the machine is still set to detect drives connected to it. I.e. Primary IDE is not set to None Present (should be set to Auto - [Easiest] or MANUAL - [not recommended for inexperieced users])

You could try disconnecting all the drives, check that your BIOS is registering all clear and then reconnect the drives one by one. So SATA first, SEE if it registers then the other drives.

It's been a while since I've tampered with IDE connections do motherboards still have a manual option?The BIOS is easily confused and only one change should be made at a time...
Sometimes a few re-boots are needed.
There is also a built in drive detection tool in SETUP...have you tried this ? ?Quote from: patio on January 19, 2009, 07:06:19 AM

The BIOS is easily confused and only one change should be made at a time...
Sometimes a few re-boots are needed.
There is also a built in drive detection tool in Setup...have you tried this ? ?

I am trying to update my hard drive. I have cloned my existing hard drive to my new ONE via an external drive caddy, but when I replace the old with the new in the computer, it will not boot up, merely indicating that 'Operating System not found'. The new disk is recognised by my computer and has been formatted, initialized etc and appears to contain the same amount of data as the old disk,. Any ideas? The new hard drive is set to master, and as I copied to entire old disk onto the new one, I assume that XP was also transferred. Do I need to reinstall XP? I do not have the original disk (there was not one) although I do have the computer manufacturer's (Fujitsu) Product Recovery CD ROM but I'm not convinced this is suitable. I have also checked the new hard disk and it passed even the long self drive test, so it's not that. I assume that the cloning did not INCLUDE the operating system but this SEEMS strange - any suggestions? ThanksIs this a desktop or laptop computer? What software did you use for the cloning?It's a desktop. Current internal drive 40GB, new external one 160GB (Seagate). Cloned using DriveImage XML. All the data seems to have transferred as there is 39GB on the old disk (and 1GB free, hence the need for a new disk!) and 39GB on new disk (with 109GB free - true capacity 148GB). No problems with the cloning (apparently). Tried using both disks internally with new one as master and old as slave - still won't boot up. Replaced old one on its own, no problem. New disk recognised by computer in external drive caddy. I want to replace the old one entirely with the new one as I want to keep the old one as a back up. Using XP Professional. Thanks for your interest. MalcolmRe-jumper the 40G as master and remove the other drives.
See if the machine will still boot to the 40...
If so:
Hook up the new drive as a slave.
Use the Seagate tools to clone the old drive to the new one.
When finished POWER down.
Unhook the old drive and re-set the jumper on the new drive to master and power up...it should boot properly.

Disclaimer: I just noticed after re-reading this it appears you are trying to make an external drive bootable...this cannot be done without a sledgehammer and about 3 days free time so if this is what you want to accomplish disregfard the above advice. This is by design as Gates wanted Windows this way.
It can be done...however.

P.S.S. I have had DriveImage fail on me 3 times in a row now and no longer suggest it as a GOOD free image solution...Thanks Patio - and no, I am not trying to reboot the external drive - I only used the drive caddy for cloning the existing disk - I then transferred the now 'cloned' disk into the computer having taken out the old one and it wouldn't work. The 40g still works OK on its own, with the jumper set on Cable Select so I guess it will still work as master.

I'll try the master/slave route and look at Seagate cloning and then use the new one as master, as you have suggested. Re DriveImage, it SEEMED to work OK - Windows certainly showed that the content of the existing drive has been copied to the new one and having looked at the files in the new drive, they seem to reflect exactly the files in the old drive! That's why I was surprised that the operating system apparently could not be found.

Anyway, I'll try again (and again, and again etc etc) and I'll let you know. Thank you for your help. Malcolm Hey Patio - THANKS! All now up and running.

Initially had a few problems as computer would not recognise new hard disk if installed internally - tried putting jumpers to Master/Slave, Master/CS, CS/CS but still no good. Then put new disk in external drive caddy and disk recognised - maybe a problem with cable.

Then downloaded Maxtor MaxBlast from Seagate website, cloned existing disk, whipped out old disk, installed new disk internally and, man alive, it all works!

Problem seemed to be duff DriveImage download, so this appears to be a big no no in future.

Thanks a Lot for your help, and good luck! MalcolmExcellent News Malcolm...your perserverence paid off...

Take a look at Acronis True Image for your backup needs...current best deal is @ newegg.
They have a free trial at the Acronis support page.

Stop by anytime !

I just plugged in a 2 TERABYTE hard DRIVE should i leave it big or SET to jbod, could i get some PROS and cons thanksThis link I came across. Might help you decide.

http://tinyurl.com/co2eo8killer sarcasm, there, Mr Google. Well, he might FIND some answers there...

at high levels of volume, my speakers are distorting.
this is of course to be expected

how do i find out whether it is the onboard sound or the speakers that are the limiting factor (bottleneck)?

any help would be greatly appreciated of course
thanksThe easiest way would be to change the speakers or sound card, to see which makes the problem go away.
It could also be the files you're playing, they may be encoded at a low quality which might make them distort.i will COMPARE SONGS with different bit rates to see what i get

is there no way to somehow compare the power output of my onboard sound card and the speaker output?the main problem is that i cant afford just to buy a soundcard/speakers just to test them

Quote from: boo on February 06, 2009, 05:53:27 AM

is there no way to somehow compare the power output of my onboard sound card and the speaker output?

Hi
I've ordered a Western Digital Caviar SE 320 GB EIDE Hard DRIVE to replace the faulty one in my Dell Desktop.
It was only when I RECEIVED the confirmation of DISPATCH from Amazon, that I realised that it was a OEM version.
I understand that this will COME with no software or instructions and although I've changed the hard drive before, I don't know what to do without these.
Can anyone give me some advice?
Thanks
FreddyYou can't look these up and download them?Western Digital provides Instructions on installation and they have downloads.


http://support.wdc.com/product/install.asp?level1=5&lang=enMany thanks street1.
I've downloaded the instructions. The're a bit complecated for large DRIVES, but I think it should be OK now.
FreddyGlad we could help Freddy.

I have a Sony FW Laptop Computer and it is only 3 weeks old. I have discovered that when the battery is attached to the computer and the computer is completely turned off the batter loses at least 8% of its life in a 12 hour period. When I say the computer is off I mean exactly that, everything is off.

On contacting Sony I have been TOLD that they accept 25% as perfectly reasonable inn that situation. I insisted that was totally unacceptable and also that 8% over the given period when the battery was FULLY charged was unacceptable. They AGREED to either send an engineer out to check the computer or change the battery . Why if there was nothing wrong, as far as they were concerned, were they suggesting that? They merely repeated the offer, and after I agreed to change the battery they commented "That should solve your problem". Problem? They said there was no problem!!!!

On checking if I had received the new battery and I had acknowledged receipt I told them the same situation pertained. They reaffirmed that 8% over a 12 hour period was acceptable.

IS IT???i just finished with a 6 week old dell laptop. the battery indicator in the bios says 88% at full charge.

I dont know any better than you whats acceptable, to be honest, but I'd take 92% and run with it.I think you have misunderstood my message. Please forgive me if I have not made it clear enough.
1. The computer is new.
2. The battery has been configured.
3. The battery is not in use over the 10 hour test period. It is attached to the computer but the computer is completely shut down Nothing is running. In that period under those conditions 8% of running time was USED.
4. The battery should last 280 Min's in use , (that is the claim)
5. 8% of 280 Min's is 22.4 The computer used the equivalent of running 22,4 minutes.

I hope that puts it into some sort of perspective

My hard drive has a sata CABLE and i need to CONVERT it so I can SLAVE it to another computer using a eide what can i do??? power cable also is differentIf you have a SATA port on your MOBO use that. SATA is by far faster than IDE and yes the power connector is different but you can get an adapter and you can get a bridge board to CONNECT SATA to IDE.http://www.datoptic.com/cgi-bin/web.cgi?product=IDE-SATA4&detail=yes

Here is a link so you can see.

I am looking to possibly upgrade the below computer. It is a HP/Compaq. I would like the opinions of the fine people here as to what would be the max I could upgrade this ting to with out changing the motherboard. Since this is mostly used for GAMING I am starting to get behind on some of the newer GAMES that I want to play. When I go to http://www.systemrequirementslab.com/referrer/srtest and have it check games for me the main thing that it shows fails is the video card but I figure that if I am going to be upgrading the video card I might as well see what ELSE i can up grade while I am at it. I am not too worried about the HARD drive as it currently have about 75% free space on it. Me and my wife both have laptops that we use to store all of our pics and videos on plus I am one of those type people that will install a game and play it until i beat it or get really bored with it and then uninstall it until i get ready to play again. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Here are the comp specs:

WindowsXP

Base processor
Athlon 64 3700+ 2.2 GHz
•2000 MT/s (Mega Transfers/second)
•Socket 939
Chipset
ATI Radeon XPress 200

Motherboard
•Manufacturer: MSI
•Motherboard Name: MS-7184
•HP/Compaq motherboard name: AmethystM-GL6E

Memory
ComponentAttributes
Memory Installed1 GB (2 x 512) Currently have upgraded this to 3 GB
Maximum allowed4 GB* (4 x 1 GB) requires the replacement of the installed 512 MB DIMMs
Speed supportedPC3200 MB/sec
Type184 pin, DDR SDRAM
DIMM slotsFour

Hard drive
•200 GB
•7200 rpm

16x DVD(+/-)R/RW (+/-)R DL LightScribe drive

PCI K56flex data/fax modem Since I use ComCast Cable for internet I could remove this Right?

Video graphics
Integrated graphics

Sound/audio
•Controller: AC97 audio
•Location: Integrated

Network (LAN)
Integrated 10/100 Base-T networking interface

Expansion slots
Slot typeQuantity
PCIThree (two available)
PCI ExpressOne (available)
DIMMFour (two available)

You'll find it hard to upgrade the CPU further as socket 939 processors are a little hard to find outside of Ebay.
You have a PCI-Express slot to upgrade the graphics (which is definitely the best upgrade for you) however we don't know what power supply you have. it's quite likely you'll either be very limited in your choice of card, or will have to replace the PSU (I recommend replacing it anyway, for future upgrades - you can always reuse it).
I don't see the HP model number, so we'll either need that or you'll need to provide info on your current PSU.
You can remove the PCI modem if you like as it won't be in use.
What's your budget for upgrades?Calum,

Thanks for the fast response. The comp is a HP Pavilion a1245c, with a product number of EG137AA. I tried to look around on the HP website for any info on the PSU but couldn't really find anything. I would physically check it but it is at home in Louisiana and I am currently in Angola. I don't mind replacing the PSU.

So if I had a budget of $500 and wanted to just replace the PSU and Video cards what would be my best bet?

I have attached the Spec sheet that I got from HP.

[attachment deleted by admin]At a guess, from some Google searches, it looks to be a 300W unit, in which case it'll need replacing.
For a PSU, I'd recommend this - 600W is be enough for most upgrades, and will even power a new midrange system, so you should be able to keep it for a good few years.

As for the video card, take your pick. From lowest price/lowest performance to highest price/highest performance.
Radeon 4670
Radeon 4830
Radeon 4850

I didn't go any higher than the 4850 because it would be wasted on your current system. To be fair, anything above a 4670 will probably be bottlenecked by your CPU, but there's no harm in getting something a little better - even if you can't fully utilise it now, you could always use it again, in a new system one day for example.

If you want to spend $500 there's more you could do, but those upgrades would probably be the best bang for your buck.
Hope this helps.Thanks again Calum.

I will have to see if I can get the PSU and the 4850 on order so they will be home when I get there. I appreciate the help.I did find an Opteron 180 cpu at a few different sites for about $200.00. It's a 2.4ghz dual core. "Buy.com" was one of them. I don't know what games you are playing or what kind of frame rates you want, but there are alot of pci-e video cards out there that are inexpensive<$200.00 like a 8800gt or a 9800gt or the 4850 which is a great card for the money and if you have a budget of $500.00 that leaves you $100.00 for a psu if needed.$200 for an Opteron 180 seems like a rip-off to me.
Sure, it's an upgrade ... but for that price, why not go for a new motherboard and CPU?
I've already linked to a 4850, amongst other cards, for <$150.I agree it is expensive for a socket 939 processor but it is the fastest dual core pro for that mobo that is still avail. Unless you can find an Opteron 185 or you want to go with the fx60. The only reason that would be the choice is because they did not want to replace the mobo.

please help me disassemble my LAPTOP... g320 ECS thank you...

please PROVIDE pictures for the disassemble procedure tnx..

if you try to PRESS the power button the computer does not respond but all the led are LIGHTED... and when you try to press the power button again the led TURN off.... no display at all... onething the battery does not charge.... no light at charging led thank you thank you help help...... Try Google - http://www.google.co.nz/search?hl=en&q=ecs+g320+disassembly&btnG=Google+Search&meta=

I've just bought a k-mate musicFan Bluetooth speaker and cannot stream MUSIC over to it. It looks as if I have it installed and I've even got it the bluetooth icon in the AUDIO toolbar at the bottom. I'm running vista home premium and have probably missed something important out... PLEASE can SOMEONE help me stream my audio over bluetooth with my dongle? THANKS very much in advance.

Hi, I'm having trouble with my microphone. I got it like 2 months ago now. It was working fine, but today, I was GAMING on Zombie Panic: Source (As usual) and everyone says they can't HEAR me.
Please help!!
My OS is Vista Home Premium, my headset is an Xbox 360 headset with all drivers updated.
System Model: XFX Nforce 680i LT
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 QUAD CUPU Q6600 @ 2.40GHz (4 CPUS), ~2.4GHz
NVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT

Is there a way for me to disable a PCMCIA driver? I am using an application to analyze the communication between two equipments at WORK using a laptop. I have created a batch file to start and stop the application daily. It would works for the first time. When the laptop tried to start the application the second time an error message appear saying that the driver is already running, so it cannot open the application. I tried to use taskkill to stop the application, it works, but I still can't start it back. It displayed the same error message. If there is a way please LET me know, and is it possible to include it in a batch file? Because I want to start and stop it at certain time. Thanksit sounds as if your batch file is NOT completely CLOSING down the application and
all it threads, if it was you shouldn't get that some driver/file/etc. is already being used....check your batch file and application again, you maybe using the wrong commands to the application to completely shut it down properly...

Good Luck

hi
i seem to be RUNNING out of space on my hard drive, out of 68gb it tells me i have only 290kb left yet if i go onto add/remove programs i have hardly anything installed,i have another hard drive what i use for downloading music and out of 60gb i still have 40gb left on that one. any ideas???.Try this and see if any of the files ring a BELL.
http://www.shivaranjan.com/2008/10/30/quickly-find-100-large-files-present-in-hard-disk-drive-hdd/
Viruses have been know to fill up hard drives as well.
Hope this helps.thanks mayers57 i Will give that a go.

allthough my son may have found the problem, he found some hidden files in our cd/dvd coppier sonic record now, it is supposed to copy a temporary file on the hard drive but it appears to have saved them for some reason, now we deleted them and RELEASED a massive 42gb.
thanks again for the help.


All burner programs move/copy whatever is being burned to a Temp file...
Set the preferences in your burning app to remove them after the burn is finalised.

I have 4x1TB Western digital green caviar drives. I've connected them in up RAID 0 but whenever i get the a INSTALLATION page with Windows XP pro where i choose my partitions only around 2TB shows up, any ideas? Each drive registers on the RAID setup in BIOS and is 'Healthy'.You're running up against the maximum NTFS partition size, which is 2TB. Raid or otherwise. NTFS in theory has an upper limit of 16 exabytes (16 million TB), but Windows (all versions) limits the partition tables to 2^32 sectors (with 512B sectors, that's 2 TB).

However, read here (at your own RISK!)

http://www.carltonbale.com/2007/05/how-to-break-the-2tb-2-terabyte-file-system-limit/





eh,

just out of curiosity, what on earth do you more than 2,000 Gigabytes for? You COULD put the LIBRARY of Congress on it, back it up 6 times, and still have Tons of room leftoverQuote from: foggs on February 05, 2009, 09:08:05 AM

eh,

2,000 Gigabytes for? You could put the Library of Congress on it, back it up 6 times, and still have Tons of room leftover

My new external, about a week old, is having problems again. It was working here, then i took it to my dads and it worked. After that it didn't WORK on 2 XP computers at school, and it didn't work on 2 Vista computers at my friends. Now I formatted my main computer and its not working.

Its coming up with "USB Device Not Recognized". I tried the HP help thing it brought up and nothing worked. This computer has been giving me the same message with flash drives and stuff for a while but the HDD was working just Friday on it. I'm just about sick of all the computer problems I've been having lately. I want to set my computer on FIRE!!! MWAHahahaHA.

Please help.
Thank you very much!This page might help: http://support.microsoft.com/search/default.aspx?catalog=LCID%3D1033&query=USB+device+is+not+recognized&mode=rI asked my uncle. He SAYS the arm is broken. ugh. I have hardware. Though just to make sure, I did look through the knowledge base and found nothing relating to my issue. Guess I just have to find all those FILES and re-download them. Ugh.

Thanks for the link.What "arm" is broken?that thing that reads. i don't remember what its called. lol. in the driveOk that is what I thought you were talking about. how does your uncle know that it is broke?he PLUGGED it in and heard it clanking AROUND inside i guess.

I have a HP DV1331SE laptop that won't power up. It runs Win XP Home SP3. It's been running like a champ till now.

It went to standby one night & it never woke up. Tried power button, of course, to no avail. No LED's lit up, no nothing.

Actually it did it once before the night before, and after I returned home, plugged it in and after about 3 hours of non-responsiveness, it magically started back up.

Went to Hp's site, they suggested to re-seat memory chips.
Also to disconnect power adapter & battery & hold power button down for 1 minute. Then try to power up.
Nope! Didn't work.

Battery seems to be ok, LASTS about an hour & a half, maybe, although it's 4 yrs old.
Also took a multi-meter to the power adapter, it read the nominal 18.5 volts like it should, so that checks out.

Power switch? Is it replaceable?
Power supply? Is it integrated or is it replaceable?

I'm open to any suggestions right now. Is it fixable? or is it worth it?
as to whether it is worth fixing it is far to early to tell until a DEFINITION of the cause can be determined.Some simple things you might want to try to see if it creates a difference. With the computer turned on exert a bit of hand (or finger) pressure on the computer surface in various locations. Particular emphasis in the AREAS of the power switch,the point at which the adapter enters the UNIT,the area where the battery is located. Prior to the total loss were you able to detect fans working? Did you actually do the memory reseating HP recommended? I must confess to very limited knowledge of laptops however the pressure suggestion i have provided in the past has determined the physical area of the problem. Be carefull not too much pressure.goodluck,truenorthQuote from: truenorth on February 02, 2009, 04:49:49 PM

as to whether it is worth fixing it is far to early to tell until a definition of the cause can be determined.Some simple things you might want to try to see if it creates a difference. With the computer turned on exert a bit of hand (or finger) pressure on the computer surface in various locations. Particular emphasis in the areas of the power switch,the point at which the adapter enters the unit,the area where the battery is located. Prior to the total loss were you able to detect fans working? Did you actually do the memory reseating HP recommended? I must confess to very limited knowledge of laptops however the pressure suggestion i have provided in the past has determined the physical area of the problem. Be carefull not too much pressure.goodluck,truenorth

Can ANYONE please tell me the nearest replacement for the HP PHOTOSMART 8250 PHOTO PRINTERFred,Welcome to the CH forums.If it is the CLOSEST technology to the HP model you want it WOULD seem to me that HP ought to be able to answer that best for you(within their product line of course). If it is what other manufacturer offers the closest match to that i suspect you are ENTERING the domain of personal choice to a great degree.truenorth

A message appears saying that my D-link type DU-562M USB external modem is not available whenever I plugged in my lexmark Z25 printer to a vacant USB port of my AMD Sempron LE-1200, 2.11 Ghz 896 MB RAM desktop computer. I am using windows XP 2002 version. I need to remove both the printer and the modem's drivers and then re-install back the modem's drivers before I can use it again. There is no error message from the device manager. This trouble only appear after I log out from my internet connection and logging on again the next time. I am using a dial-up internet connection.Thanks in advance for your help.Does this phenomenon occur if the printer is plugged into the USB port but NOT turned on? truenorthThe printer was disconnected. There is an error message saying Error 633 "the modem is already in use or is not configured PROPERLY". I removed the programs of both the modem and the printer from the control panel's add or removed programs. Then, I inserted back the CD software for the modem and the modem worked again. I need to do this everytime after I finished using the printer.So as i understand it if you were not ever to use the printer the modem would work fine? If the same occurs if you were to use the printer and not have the modem plugged (this is a possibility given you say that your modem is external) the same result would occur? That being so there is either a conflict between the drivers for the 2 devices or a problem with how the USB PORTS try to deal with the 2 devices when both are plugged in. What type of modem is this were talking about--i don't mean the brand. I assuming this problem has always existed since the 2 were 1st brought together on this computer? I am also assuming that you have gone to the web sites of the manufacturers of both devices to ensure that you have the latest drivers? Have you moved the devices to the various usb ports you have available? Specifically one front one rear if you have that option. Perchance is either device connected through a USB hub? truenorthI had tried using different USB ports with the same result. I got no problem using the printer whether the modem is plugged in or not. It seems that the printer is always TAKING over the connection that the modem was using. I have not yet checked the modem maker's website. I will try to do it and I will keep you inform until this problem is solved. Accoding to the modem's package, it is V.92 56K Data Fax USB Modem. In the meantime, I am using an old laptop computer for the printer.Rhaindlhiz,While at the moment it is a bit premature to adopt another suggestion i am about to provide it can be borne in mind should your attempt at "modem driver update" not be the solution.When i used to be on dial up i too had a variety of problems associated with 56k modems. It seems the cheaper they were the more LIKELY the problems. Not that the more expensive ones were dramatically more costly.I have had no experience with external dial up modems however. Mine were always PCI internals. The very best one i ever used was an internal US Robotics 56k V92 data/fax unit. My new solution should it become necessary is to replace the modem.If you don't have any specific must have reason to have an external i would suggest a US Robotics PCI internal. The internal will be about 1/2 the price of the external and easier to FIND. It is now becoming more difficult to find dial up modems as high speed is becoming much more available. But they can still be found.anyway something to concider for the future. goodluck, truenorth

I'm looking to buy a new gaming keyboard and mouse and i am looking for suggestions on which ONES are better.

I have chosen a few keyboards here- http://secure.newegg.com/Shopping/ShoppingCart.aspx?Submit=view

Mice-http://secure.newegg.com/Shopping/ShoppingCart.aspx?Submit=view

I'm also open to any other suggestions.
Price- Keyboards - Under $100
Mice- Under $60Logitech...Do you know any specific models that are better than others?Most of it is preference. I have a G-15 keyboard and a G-5 mouse both are logitech and work great, they are very programmable as well. You can find the keyboard on sale for about $80. and the mouse for about $40. even less if you look HARD enough. I got the mouse for under $20 on Amazon because I signed up and charged it to an Amazon visa. The keyboard I got from Fry's electronics for $80+tax.i see no point PAYING more then 10 bucks for a keyboard. Personal experience, go with logitech they make good quality itemsQuote from: Mikdugal1 on FEBRUARY 05, 2009, 12:19:43 AM

i see no point paying more then 10 bucks for a keyboard.

I am using windows xp & i want to make a ghost HDD so i DOWNLOAD symantec ghost 11.5 and try to make a ghost HDD using the option disk to image & the source is my c: DRIVE , destination is my new SATA HDD,Atlast the image is copied.After that i try to boot my ghost HDD by connect it as master and my old HDD as Slave but it does not boot please any body help me, the same even i try with Hiren's boot CD what version of NORTON are you using?

heres how http://ghost.radified.com/ghost_4.htm for norton ghost9

NORTON 2003.

Instructions:

1.In the Ghost Advanced window, click Clone, and then click next.
2.In the Clone wizard window, in the left pane, do one of the following:

*Click a disk to select it as a source for the clone operation.
*Click a partition to select it as the source for the clone operation.
3.In the right pane, do the following:
*Click a disk to select it as the destination for the clone operation
*Click a partition to select it as the destination for the clone operation.


WARNING: the destination disk or partition is completely overwritten with no chance of recovering data


4.Cick next
5.The Overwrite partition warning dialog box appears if you are overwriting any of the following
*The current Windows partition
*The Ghost installation
Click next to continue
6.If this is the first TIME you USED Norton Ghost on this computer, in the add Ghost Disk Identification dialog box, make sure you name it to something you can remember
7.Click Run Now to start the clone operation


Quote

try to make a ghost HDD using the option disk to image

i have a old DELL laptop with WINDOWS 2000- no cd or floppy drive-i changed admin and PASSWORD and FORGOT it. I am trying to connnect laptop to computer with file sharing to load windows xp and overide passord through wizard file sharing but cannot transfer because wizard needs to be running on both. how can i get tranfers to go between computers?Windows password or BIOS password ? ?
Either way you are in a pickle here...especially without a CDROM or floppy drive.
Sorry.have bios password not admin logon password
and laptop does not have floppy or disk drive You can purchace a external cdrom.& hope from thereAlso external (USB connectable) floppy drives are readily available (inexpensive). However i don't see how this helps with your "password" issues?truenorthif your laptop works with the newly purchased external cdrom drive, you can download and burn either Hirens Boot Disk or NT Administration Recovery (try searching NT Crack instead) on the computer you are using to post on this website. Then use said CD on the computer that you DONT have windows password on (assuming external cdrom works) and BOOM. you now has admin. Easy, simple, should be pretty cheap. Hope i helped.

I have a Philips 200w6, I left my house with the computer on and MONITOR lit for a few hours, mind you this monitor has bin working perfectly for the passed two years. I come home to a black screen, computer running and the power BUTTON on the monitor lit green. i plug another monitor into the comp and the comp works fine. Any ideas what this may be?



thanks,

Jon Den. Its a wide screen lcd monitor.


jon den Does this monitor work on another computer?I haven't tried. why would you say that?

jon den.the screen is totally out! Nothing shows usually the "no input" box would show or if i hit the volume something would appear. it seams like the back light is burned out.


jon den. do u have warranty still on it? my lcd monitor i bought came with 3 years warranty.Quote from: CARBON Dudeoxide on September 24, 2008, 10:31:08 PM

Does this monitor work on another computer?

I haven't tried. why would you say that?

jon den.

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on September 24, 2008, 10:31:08 PM

Does this monitor work on another computer?

Quote from: jonnydenn on September 24, 2008, 10:32:58 PM

I haven't tried. why would you say that?

jon den.

To see if the monitor works with another computer.

Does the monitor have a separate data cord? If so, try a different cord.

I have a http://www.trustedreviews.com/images/article/inline/3092-1.jpg

EVGA 7300gt.
I was looking around a found it had a Blown capacitor( hole in K symbol in the top),and the goodies(whatever is inside the cap.) are oozing out. The computer seemed to run fine with the capacitor in this condition. I removed the card and am now running on a (Geforce 6100 ON board) that came with the computer.My question... What could have caused the capacitor to go down the drain(no other visible DAMAGE)Im thinking no enough power?(previous had a 180W power supply)I now have a Dynex 400W ( I needed one anyway).I do not belive it overheated.bad luck I guess- if anything I'd suspect overvoltage to cause the problem. Of course, if you have any soldering skills and a similiar rated capacitor, you could try your luck replacing it (the capacitor). It's was probably best to remove it, it would be bound to fail at the worst POSSIBLE moment.So might I be able to steal a similar capacitor from another device I dont use and stick it on?(I know someone who could do it)
If you MAKE SURE they have the same rating, it's possible.If it is DONE incorrectly, would It damage the computer? or just the cardHonestly, I don't know- but usually when a card fails it doesn't bring the computer down with it. If the wrong rating was used, or it was done wrong- it would likely just be as if the card failed.

If possible you could test the card in a junk machine first, before putting it back in.Ill see what I can do

Ok, let me start by saying, thank you all for at least reading this. My problem is both confusing and annoying.
My pc is acting strangely. About a month ago, my computer started acting up. Every time, I would attempt to play anything(games on steam) on it, the monitor would power off, but computer would still be running.
The monitor displays the same thing as if my computer were off/disconnected, thing is, is the computer is still running. I can hear all of the sounds as if it were on, but no picture.
Immediately, i thought graphics card update. I scanned it, and believe it or not, i did need an update. After the update though, it was still happening. I then thought, monitor. I hooked up another monitor, and same thing. Then it became increasingly worse to where if i had anymore than two windows up, it would overload the graphics card, and do the same. Then it was a process of trial and error, on and off, for it to EVEN be used.
I thought i had some huge major virus, or something, so i re staged my computer.Still happening. Not as frequent, but still. I am a gamer, and its killing me not to play anything. So if any of you kind readers know what my problem could be, please help.

Thanks so much.
Xsounds like it may be overheating of your graphics card im guesing you dont have onboard graphics scence your a gamer? download speedfan http://www.almico.com/speedfan.php and tell us the temps also what are your computer specs?Very good diagnosis, computeruler
BTW, what is this:Quote

i re staged my computer

Hello to all,
I just replaced the power supply with a 430 watt Thermaltake, good news, bad news!
Good news, the computer boots up
Bad news, it does the same old thing as the old psu, computer, hard drives, everything in the case starts and beeps,etc, but the monitor satys in the sleep mode and no keyboard, mouse,etc., with the graphic card plugged into the new MoBo!!!

I NEED the big guns to answer this I think,
Rich Helloooo? Is this too hard to fix over the internet? Does anyone want more info from me about any other stuff on the computer? How do I find a reliable tech locally, I'm north of Orlando?
RIchWell, it could be your monitors as well. Just mak e sure everything is plug in right, such as your RAM, Vid Card Sorry Rich, I'm mostly out of ideas.
Do you have a monitor you can plug into the onboard video, on the motherboard?
I'd try that.Thanks everyone. I'll take it to a local computer fixit shop and LET you all know what happens. At this point, it would have been cheaper to give this desktop to my wife for the internet and just go buy a new desktop for the Photoshop stuff! I've SEEN desktops now for under $600 and really loaded, compared to this old CLUNKER!!!
Thanks again,
RichHello again,
I took the desktop to Compusa on Monday, they had a free inspection special this weekend, and they fixed it. Not totally sure what they did, something like switching the primary graphics card adapter to AGP.

Anyway, the tech said the FIRST guy who changed out the mother board in the first place should have know to do this. Everything is working fine now and wanted to let ewveryone that helped know the out come. Thanks again for all the suggestions,
RichLooks like Rockerest was right on the money!Yepper, Rockerest be "da Man", if only I could have understood what he was saying, it would have saved a lot of time and $$$. Like I said before, I'm just a simple photographer. Thanks Rockerfest!
Rich

My computer had a couple of upgrades on my sis 661-mx, new ram, upgraded to xp pro, changed celeron d 325 to a pentium 4 prescott with HT. all was going fine till I installed some spyware detectors and they TOLD me to restart my system. Well after I did it ran fine, the next morning my blower was MAKING noise, toke it out and turned the computer on, the bios that says the energy star such and such then it goes to Detecting Pentium Processor 2.6 and then NOTHING goes no further, nothing works, it just stops. now I tried the power supply, took out the sound blaster, the agp card, disconected the hardrives and the same, took out each stick of ram, no beeps just nothing after detecting cpu, I even tried puttin the old celeron back, detects that and then also nothing, do you think the motherboard just died. I ordered a new one from new egg an biostar type like my sis, just a lil different.Possible the motherboard just died, but interesting that it didn't happen until you made your changes and upgrades. Did you make all these changes at the same time?

I know it is time consuming, but try to take your changes in steps, please. For example, change some hardware and then boot to make sure all is well, and then make software changes. Are you sure the board was rated for the type of processor you installed?well the ram was done like over a month ago and the processor last week
the manual said it could take a p4/celeron d/celeron from 1.5 and up.
never said anything about only certain types. just wierd that it happened when everything was going ok till the blower was making noise then toom it out then this happened.well I wanted to get a new computer but the way things are its just not in the budget, I have a 2.61 p4 presscott cpu, 1.5 gig mem at pc400 250 gig hardrive and a 160 usb hardrive, ati 1650 pro 512 mb. so itll be hard to get all new. Quote from: travismontana on September 24, 2008, 09:13:35 AM

well I wanted to get a new computer but the way things are its just not in the budget, I have a 2.61 p4 presscott cpu, 1.5 gig mem at pc400 250 gig hardrive and a 160 usb hardrive, ati 1650 pro 512 mb. so itll be hard to get all new.

well the ram was done like over a month ago and the processor last week
the manual said it could take a p4/celeron d/celeron from 1.5 and up.
never said anything about only certain types. just wierd that it happened when everything was going ok till the blower was making noise then toom it out then this happened.

I want to put in an upgrade video card, however my power SUPPLY is only 250 watts, I would like to replace it with a 500 watt? I am expecting my ACER M410 in a few days. Can someone suggest a good upgrade? and.. is there any or many conflicts in upgrading? Thank you..this forum is awesome.


Posse 14hey posse14, im going to need some clarification...

the way you wrote your post makes it seem as though you have two computers. which computer has the 250 watt power supply? i highly doubt the acer has a 250W PSU if this is it.

if your buying your comp new, wont you void your warranty by upgrading it?HOMER;

One computer with a 250 watt power supply, I want to upgrade to a higher wattage to facilitate a new video card as I do video PRODUCTION. Otherwise, I would like to find a video card that works with a 250 watt system? Thankswhere does the acer m140 come into play?You may not need to upgrade your power supply just because you are installing a new video card. Does the card you wish to install specify power requirements?I want to purchase an upgraded video card to install in my new Acer M410. I am not taking a power supply or video card from anyother computer. To explain: I do video editing, I want to upgrade tien integrated Ati Radeon x1200 IGP graphics unit. But , most video cards require more than 250 watts of power supply? I would like to find a card tht would work with my current power supply? Can you suggest a card? If not I am asking if I should upgrade the power supply to one of say..350 watts? Hope this is clearer? Im not much at explaining the insides of a computer.

Posse 14

Specs:

Dell 4700c

Intel 3.0GHz processor
512MB
40GB hard drive
Windows XP Pro


So I shut down my computer in the morning before heading off to work- come home and the fan is REALLY loud and it’s not fully shut down. Just a black screen. So I restart my comp. only to get the blue screen of death. I was unable to load the system in safe MODE, or any of the other previously known settings. I tried to load from the Windows CD. Repair did not work, so I erased everything and tried to completely re-install Windows XP(All my GOODIES are backed up on an external hard drive). The installation does not work and goes back to the blue screen.

I am able to get to the F2 menu, and under the maintenance log, it says CPU0 FAN ERROR. I’ve purchased a new fan and heatsink that I’ll be installing today.

The error message on the blue screen is 0x00000024, but DELL says online that this may mean that my hard drive needs to be replaced.

Can anyone pinpoint what the exact problem is before I waste money on a new computer?
This sounds like a motherboard problem to me. I'd wait until someone else posts here too, just because I could be wrong, but if I'm right, you will need another PC - replacing the mobo is about as expensive and complicated as a new tower anyhow.The error CPU0 FAN ERROR means that the fan was not detected as running or was running too slowly, so you're on the right track with the new fan. But, did you verify that the fan was not running? As an aside, when installing the new heatsink, be sure to COMPLETELY remove any thermal compound from both surfaces (a credit card edge is good, then use ISOPROPYL alcohol to remove the residue), then, when dry, apply a THIN layer of new thermal paste to each surface (again, a credit card edge is good for this).

The Stop Error, 0x24, indicates a file corruption and could, indeed, be your hard drive. But, it may not be. Try this: a) boot from the Win CD and go to the Recovery Console - run chkdsk /f/r; b) go to your hard drive manufacturer's website and download and run the diagnostic TOOLS for your drive.

Best of luck.The cpu fan and power supply fan were working at the time of the error message. Will it make a difference if I just replaced the cpu fan instead of the heatsink?


Is browning on any of the parts on the motherboard normal? If not, then it's definitely the motherboard. A few of the parts (the ones that look like miniature AA batteries) have a rust-like substance on top.Quote from: omnipadme on September 23, 2008, 02:42:05 PM

The cpu fan and power supply fan were working at the time of the error message. Will it make a difference if I just replaced the cpu fan instead of the heatsink?

Is browning on any of the parts on the motherboard normal? If not, then it's definitely the motherboard. A few of the parts (the ones that look like miniature AA batteries) have a rust-like substance on top.

My P5B-VM Asus Motherboard cant detect hard disk.

Hardware:
P5B-VM Motherboard
1G pc2 5300
inter Core 2 Duo E4600 2.40GHz
Seagate 160 SATA hard disk
NVIDIA GeForce 8600 video cardNeed some more info. What are you trying to do, what operating system, anything else that you can think of to help us to help you.Im planing to install a windows XP to this computer, but when i go to the bios screen the sata hard disk is not detect. so i replaced the sata hard disk w/ a an ide hard disk and it run. I update the bios of the motherboard but still it does not detect any sata hardware.. Is your SATA drive connected to SATA port 1 or 2?I tried to connect it to all sata slot in the board but still the board can't detect the sata hard disk.Additionally, when you go to install XP, you'll need to press F6 very early in the install process to load SATA drivers so the Windows installation can proceed - XP does not have SATA hard drive support built in.Quote from: daryllsilorio on September 22, 2008, 10:44:10 PM

I tried to connect it to all sata slot in the board but still the board can't detect the sata hard disk.

I hope your not trying to excuse his lack of manner, Aegis!

Of course not, Of course not.

It's just wonderful GETTING caught in catch-22's with drivers what I do is simply burn them to a CD, or store them on a external, because not having proper drivers makes it difficult to- well, do anything involving the device without the driver, I suppose.No, as much as I RANT about CERTAIN people and things, I TRY to be fair when I recognize a problem they're having, or when they posted in a constructive manner elsewhere on the forum.

I know where he was GOING with the printer reference, but he never explained it.