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my wifes llaptop wont power up. there is a slight clicking noise from the power pack, and the lights on the front blick with the CLICK. any idea? power SUPPLY gone bad?What is the laptops MODEL number?

By power pack, do you mean the CHARGER itself, or the battery, or another part?

When did this start?

When you press the power button on the laptop, EXACTLY what happens?its a pcg-f350.....yes it the black box between the laptop and the plugin. when you turn it on....nothing happens, battery is dead.You may want to make sure that clicking sound isn't coming from the hard drive...if so stop using the machine if you value your data.let start again.....the clicking sound IS from the black blox that is part of the power cable....not from the hard drive. The laptop will not power up. the blinking light are the battery lights on the bottom of the screen. when you turn it on nothing happens. you might try an equivalent ac adapter and/or a new one...!!!

Good LuckQuote from: fgdn17 on January 10, 2009, 06:02:16 PM

you might try an equivalent ac adapter and/or a new one...!!!

Good Luck

Quote from: fgdn17 on January 10, 2009, 06:02:16 PM

you might try an equivalent ac adapter and/or a new one...!!!

Good Luck

That might not be wise.

If your laptop is still under warranty, you should be able to get a new one for free.

Otherwise, just buy a new one. They're not expensive, and there isn't anything we can do.

I want to set up a home network.
I have my desktop "Windows XP home edition service pack 3 (build 2600) in my study room. It is connected
to a modem " skyedge Pro/IP VSAT" with a big disk on the roof of our house.
My wife got a "toshiba satellite M300/00R notebook (cat No: XC4253) and will use in in the lounge room.
We want wireless connection.
What is the best and suitable hardware to buy?
Best regards,Buy a wireless modem. It will then be connected to your modem. Your desktop will connect to the router via cable and your wife's laptop can connect wirelessly to the router. Then, if you want, you can enable file sharing or printer sharing.

Which brand/model is best? I don't know. I've been using a D-Link DI-524 for about two years. Besides D-Link, other major brands are Linksys, Netgear, Belkin, and others. The price range is RATHER wide, if you consider all models on the market. Here's one at about $50 that I'd consider: LINKSYS WRT54G2 IEEE 802.3/3u, IEEE 802.11b/g Wireless-G Broadband Router - Retail . The reviews there may be helpful.My PC run "windows XP home edition service pack 3, but my
wife PC run on "vista Home prenium".
Should i change to vista before to set up my network?
Best regards,No, no OS change is needed for this.

Networking support goes all the way back to Windows 98

I run a home network with a XP Pro and Vista machine no problems.Quote from: Kurtiskain on January 10, 2009, 07:59:17 PM

No, no OS change is needed for this.

Networking support goes all the way back to Windows 98

I run a home network with a XP Pro and Vista machine no problems.

This gives off 1 beep. I read something where is could be memory refresh?
I installed another hard drive and it went fine. Then it kept not wanting to display screen.

I need a step by step guide as I am savvy enough to understand the basics at least.

Do I need another motherboard?
Or is it the graphics card?
The monitor works on this computer.
The other hard drive I installed was a 40g western digital. Went fine, until I got the same error. The one beep code (continuous)

HP - SR1520AN
Content starts here


Hardware
Software
Warranty
Product number
PY067AA
Introduction date
16-June-2005
Country/region sold in

*
Australia
*
New Zealand


Hardware

Base processor
Sempron 3200+ 1.8 GHz:

*
1600 MT/s (Mega Transfers/second)
*
Socket 939

Chipset
ATI Radeon XPress 200
Motherboard

*
Manufacturer: MSI
*
Motherboard Name: MS-7184
*
Compaq motherboard name: AmethystM-GL6E

Memory
Component Attributes
Memory Installed 512 MB (2 X 256)
Maximum allowed 4 GB* (4 x 1GB) requires the replacement of the installed 256 MB DIMMs

*Actual available memory may be less
Speed supported PC3200 MB/sec
Type 184 pin, DDR SDRAM
DIMM slots Four
Open DIMM slots Two
Hard drive

*
80 GB SATA
*
7200 rpm

16x DVD(+/-)R/RW DL drive
(must use Double-Layer media discs in order to take advantage of the DL technology)
type Attributes
DVD+R DL Write Once 2.4X
DVD+R Write Once 16X
DVD+RW Rewritable 4X
DVD-R Write Once 8X
DVD-RW Rewritable 4X
DVD ROM Read 16X
CD-R Write Once 40X
CD-RW Rewritable 24X
CD-ROM Read 40X
Modem
PCI K56flex data/fax modem
Video graphics
Integrated graphics
Sound/audio

*
Controller: AC97 audio
*
Dolby 5.1
*
Location: Integrated

Network (LAN)
Integrated 10/100 Base-T networking interface
Memory card reader

* USB interface
* Supports the following cards:
o Compact Flash I
o Compact Flash II
o SmartMedia
o Memory Stick
o Memory Stick Pro
o MultiMediaCard
o Secure Digital (SD)
o Micro Drive
o XD Picture Card (xD = extreme digital)

External I/O ports
I/O ports on the front panel
Port type Quantity
9-in-1 (4 slot) + 1 USB One
IEEE 1394 One
USB (2.0) Two
Headphone One
Line-in One
Microphone One
I/O ports on the back panel
Port type Quantity
PS/2 (keyboard, mouse) Two (one each)
VGA (monitor) One
Parallel One
USB (2.0) Four
IEEE 1394 One
LAN One
Audio One each (line-in, line-out, microphone)
Expansion slots
Slot type Quantity
PCI Three (two available)
PCI Express One (available)
DIMM Four (two available)
Drive bays
Bay type Quantity
5.25-inch, external Two (one available)
3.5-inch, external Two (one available)
3.5-inch, internal One (occupied)Ok, let's try and understand your problem. Did you have the problem before or after you installed the new HDD? When you boot up the computer, exactly what happens? Is the beep a long beep or a single beep? Does the beep repeat? Does anything appear on the screen?Did you remember to re-install all your drivers on the new hard drive ? ?
Was there a version of Windows already installed on that drive or did you install Windows on it yourself ? ?Quote from: PATIO on October 21, 2008, 06:58:58 AM

Did you remember to re-install all your drivers on the new hard drive ? ?
Was there a version of Windows already installed on that drive or did you install Windows on it yourself ? ?

Ok, let's try and understand your problem. Did you have the problem before or after you installed the new HDD? When you boot up the computer, exactly what happens? Is the beep a long beep or a single beep? Does the beep repeat? Does anything appear on the screen?

I'm having the same problem however, I put the computer together. It ran fine for a while then started what I describe below.

As of this message, I only have power and the CPU connected on a MSI KM3M-V Motherboard. I get one long beep, a pause then another long beep - endlessly. No display, nothing. I've pulled the memory, all connected drives, and pulled the CPU. The CPU looks and smells fine. The CPU is a AMD something or other - I can't remember nor can I get the computer to POST so I can check.

I tried to search the forum and ran across this thread.

Any suggestions?

Please post a new topic rather than 'thread jacking' this one

« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2008, 10:22:12 PM »

The CPU looks and smells fine

Quote from: Kurtiskain on January 10, 2009, 07:47:23 PM

Please post a new topic rather than 'thread jacking' this one

Not thread hijacking... thread necromancing:
Quote

« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2008, 10:22:12 PM »

Whups I didn't even check that!

Quote from: RedChecker21 on January 10, 2009, 06:25:48 PM

The CPU looks and smells fine

Am I the only one that finds this strange?

i posted earlier about the NTLDR missing..that is not the real problem..here is the real problem

toshiba a135..

under f2 setup

i go into the bios boot options MENU and it has four options..

cd/dvd
hdd
fdd
lan

i put cd/dvd at the top and save..then check and it TRULY is at the top of the list..i have even on one occasion disabled the hdd as a boot option..

computer does not read from cd/dvd and gives the missing ntldr msg..this is not the problem..

when i do f12 to select boot option it only list the following

hdd
lan

i dont know or understand how the f12 boot options are different from the f2 bios setup options..or how to get them synchronized so the computer can boot from cd..the drive works..spins and acts LIKE it is reading..but is not loading because the f12 boot options do not have cd/dvd among the options and apparently the bios settings are not being used..

keithWhen you are making the changes in the main screen have you tried hitting F10 which is "save changes and exit" ? ?Quote

computer does not read from cd/dvd and gives the missing ntldr msg..this is not the problem..

computer is:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Click here for Belarc's System Management products, for large and small COMPANIES.

Operating System System Model
Windows XP Home Edition Service Pack 2 (build 2600) Gateway E-3600 4000742
System Serial Number:
Chassis Serial Number:
Enclosure Type: Desktop
Processor a Main Circuit Board b
1.50 gigahertz Intel PENTIUM 4
8 kilobyte primary memory cache
256 kilobyte secondary memory cache Board: Intel Corporation D845HV AAA63931-304
Serial Number: IMHV14101854
Bus Clock: 100 megahertz
BIOS: Intel CORP. HV84510A.15A.0008.P03.0108231035 08/23/2001

The usb 1.1 ports are on the motherboard. I tried to install a Ultra 31500 6 port (4 external, 2 INT) usb 2.0 pci card but have been unsuccessful in getting it to work. Ultra tech support says that I need a 5V pci bus and will not work with a 3V bus. Package says that it needs PCI rev 2.2. From what I can tell I should have that due to the date I bought the computer (2003) and the date of the bios but do not know how to confirm directly. I ran belarc but did not see that information.

Drivers appear to load from the disk and tell me to reboot, but I get the same new hardware found message. Hardware wizard cannot find the drivers even when I point it to the disk.

Not SURE if I have to return this board and get something else or I just need some help (well I know that part).Hi,

I don't know if you looked at this but...

http://support.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/sb/cs-009024.htm

Your board is in the 'compatible' list for enabling USB 2.0 in your BIOS which should turn your USB 1.1's into 2.0 anyway.

I did a GOOGLE search and none of the issues ere similar enough to mine...


Okay so my specs are in the bubble, and included is this 4GB Laser USB thumb-drive.

The problem is every now and again, if the thumb drive is plugged in, windows will "hang"

Open applications will continue to process stuff, eg, Winamp keeps playing but I cannot pause, stop, change song etc...My computer will refuse to open, the task bar locks and I can open one task manager window, and then explorer will not respond either.

If I then try to 'browse' with Task Manager, it locks too, and all I am left with is Winamp playing through my play list, until I remove the drive, or restart the computer with the button.

Just recently I could not even login with the USB drive plugged in, it would automatically log me in like it usually does, but then go no further. Explorer would be open in the task list, and I could not even open firefox through task manager by manually typing out the path.

I have tried uninstalling/reinstalling USB hubs & controllers, no avail

Anybody know what the heck is causing this?When did this start?

Does the Flash Drive have an autorun (or U3)?It did have an autorun for Portable Apps Launcher but I got rid of it the first time it happened and it still occurred

I don't think it has U3, how could I check?If you have U3, it would start automatically when you plug the drive in.

Can you double check there isn't an autorun file in the USB.

What Filesystem is it? (right click the drive and go to Properties - should be either FAT or FAT32)FAT32,

And the autorun that was there, would never ACTUALLY work, it would still use the windows one and I would have to select it from there. Two folder, two files in root directory, Documents, Portable apps, Icon.ico and portableappslauncher.exeGet rid of the autorun for now. If you don't want to delete it, rename it to something like autorunbackup.inf or something.

Just to check, do these symptoms appear if you use the Flash drive on another computer?I got rid of the autorun a few days ago.

there isn't one at the moment, I am still on holiday and won't be at home around my other computer for 3 days yet.

(Yes I know I'm terrible I took my computer with me on Holiday for 4 weeks)

But what else is there for a 17 year old at his grandma's??

It only seems at RANDOM times too, it has happened once today, 3-4 times a few days ago, and also a while backI would try copying what you need off of it and do a clean format...ALRIGHT, will do

by the way patio...2 posts away from being the super devil lol

6666 postsQuote from: patio on January 11, 2009, 03:06:15 AM

I would try copying what you need off of it and do a clean format...

Hi everyone... I hope someone can shed some light for me, please.

My monitor suddenly seized up and all I could see were thin blue and red vertical lines.... then I turned it off & on again, but just kept getting 'no signal'.

So off the computer & monitor went to a local computer shop. They tell me the 'motherboard is fried' and they don't think they can rescue any of my data........said they have tried a few things with no luck. But I think they are more into building new computers (which I am having them do) than rescuing old stuff.
My question is..... is there anything (hopefully free on line) that I could suggest to him to try. And hopefully he wont think I'm telling him how to do his job....... far be it from me, a 60 year old, to tell a 25 year old about things to do with computers.

I'm grateful for advice you have given me on prior occasions....thank you. You guys are GOOD!!

Kind regards to all of you..

Redhead2Did you try another monitor before you took it to the shop?

This guy is probably just trying to make some money. If the motherboard was shot then the hard drive should still have all of your data on it. You would just have to hook it up as a slave in another machine and copy the data from it.

You probably just need a new video card.
Do you trust this guy?
Do you have the computer now?
Is there another computer shop you can take it to for a second opinion?Thank you JJ...... armed with some well-advised questions, my hubby and I are just going over to see him right now, so your response was very timely.... thank you. Now I can ASK him separate (and intelligent) questions about the hard drive and the motherboard.

There is another local computer shop, but I just had in my mind that once my guy starts looking to see what's wrong he was going to charge me from then anyway. I didn't even think about getting a second opinion. I am just a very trusting person..... I always trust everyone, until they give me reason not to.

He has said that no data is kept on the video card..... and yes, he still has the computer.

I will keep you posted JJ...... thanks again.... None of your files are kept on the video card. They are kept on the hard drive.It sounds to me like the video card/onboard chip went bad. I guess you could consider the motherboard "fried" if the onboard graphics have stopped working. I don't think it is likely that none of your data can be recovered due to a fried motherboard though, unless it somehow took the hard drive with it.

I would ask about the state of the hard drive, what he suspects the PROBLEM to be, and what components are supposedly ruined.

If the onboard graphics have stopped working you can purchase a cheap video card to solve that problem. Do you have any information as to the model/maker of the computer? What year was it made? You could ask him if you have pci, agp, or pci-e slots available. (Do they sell agp/pci cards now?? been meaning to look that up for a while now).Quote from: ThrowingShapes on January 14, 2009, 10:31:02 PM

(Do they sell agp/pci cards now?? been meaning to look that up for a while now).

they did tell me that both the motherboard and the hard drive were 'gone'
Very kind regards to all of you....

Besides- it's mostly redundant anyway, since your "back in business" so to speak

A bit of an awkward PROBLEM.

I recently was having problems with my computer shutting down on me unexpectedly. It took me a day to realize the problem, I was overheating, which was never a problem for me before. My brother built the computer a year ago for me, and we tested quite often for overheatting problems, and never had one. I ran at about 45C idle, upwards of 58-60C in full performance. Well, I was shutting down because my CPU was hitting upwards of 95C out of nowhere (though my MB temp. seemed fine at ~50C, and can't temp. my video card).

I didn't run the computer much in the day I fixed it. Cleaned out my heatsink on my CPU with compressed air, cleaned the fans, and got the airflow running fine again. Booted back up the PC and my screen resolution went from 1600x900(I think thats it) to 800x600. I could not change the SETTING any higher. I turned on my probe and was idleing at normal range again. But I can not for the life of meget my resolution back into my previous range. I figured a restart was in order, so I restarted the computer and I get to the WINDOWS loadind screen, then I go black and lose signal on the monitor. The computer is running, and oddly, if I unplug my monitor and plug it back into the same DVI slot, I get my image back, but I still cant change my resolution. My drivers ARE up to date.

So is my card fried? Is it something else? any advice for me? Do i need more detail or information here?

I'm running a evga nvidia 8800gts with a QUAD core 2.4ghz Q6600, 2gb ram, and vista 64.
I have the same card...is the fan still operating on the card ? ?
Did any of the gunk you blasted out wind up in the cards direction ? ?
You may want to try powering down, unhooking all power sources and remove/reseat the card.
Then after doing that do a fresh install of the ORIGINAL drivers that shipped with the card.
Good Luck.The fan seems to be still operational, though I won't lie and I have not completely inspected the fan. I know the card is at least warm to the touch when running, and the fan doesn't seemed "gunked" at all, but I am not entirely sure if it is running properly.

I am unable to access the computer at this very moment, I'm STUCK at work and am really wanting to get home and work on this, so I'll try the remove/reseat as well as everything else people may post here.

I do have a seperate card, I believe a nvidia 6800, from my older computer I could test with eventually to.ok, bit of an oddity.

I have checked and reseated. My fan is fine. I have completely redone my drivers as well, now the weird part.

I opted not to restart after reinstalling the driver, and was happily able to set my display to 1600x1050. I restarted, and got the same mess: Black screen after windows loads, unplug and replug monitor, comes on after a minute, lowest possible settings and no way to set it up. I don't think the card is fried now, since I CAN get to higher settings somehow, but I can't STAY there now.... anyone?and once again, im perplexed.

Out of seemingly nowhere, my computer just restarted itself and ran a checkdisk, found a ton of errors that it never found a day ago, and boom, im fixed. I'll have to see if this STAYS fixed, and im hoping it does.

I guess some odd combination of reseating, rebooting, reinstalling, and random computer fixing... worked. I'll update after another day (or earlier if I crap out again)You may want to DLoad and run the manuf. diagnostics on that HDD available FREE at their site. That drive may have problems...best to know ahead of time.

Ok, I have tried everything I can think of.
Dell Inspiron 1501 Windows Vista
I LOWERED the SCREEN res. on my laptop,
tried messing with the flicker, etc, etc, etc...

I have the Gigaware PC to TV Converter. I've had it working before (somehow) on my brother-in-laws 42" LCD HDTV, so I know it is compatible.

Now the best I can get is the color bars and some text from the converter its self. Every once in a while I can get a super faint picture of my laptop background on the TV, but that is rare...

Anyone have any good ideas?No, Not good for you. Good for me.
Just SEND it all to me and go try again.
Don't be AFRAID to walk away from it.
You will find something better.
You were just not made for each other.
Now, maybe you have learned your lesson.
You are better off with it.

Well, it you must know. It is easier if you don't try it with a laptop.

Well, I'm not looking to buy a desktop to run this. The whole reason I bought that converter is because I have a laptop, and would like to use a TV as a secondary monitor.

I have had it working a few times, but happened randomly, and now I can't get it to work again.

Any useful info on helping me accomplish my goal?

Secondary monitor is turned on, screen resolution has been lowered, tried all flicker rates possible, reset converter, restarted computer, everything 10x over...

It truly SUCKS that there is no tech support for this device, and no manual.
Too late to take it back, $100 later. Just want to figure it out.

I just bought the accelerator pack for Flight Simulator X. I installed it and now it won't run because it's saying something about shader problems? I have no clue. I am running A Dell Inspion 530S with the basics and Windows Vista Basic. Could someone direct me to a fix for this? Flight Simulator alone runs fine. Looks like Microsoft would make it more compatible, Thanks in advance.

TimWhat Operating System is this?

Have you ever been able to play it?

What is the exact error message?The O/S is Windows Vista Basic on a 2.9 GHz Dell Inspiron 530S. 2GB of RAM. This the the trouble: It plays MS Simulator X just fine, but as soon as I install the accelerator pack it says my graphics cards needs to be a Raytheon capable of rendering MORE shading? To that, I have no clue, I adjusted my graphics properties over and over with infinite combinations. Why would the MAIN program run fine with the graphics the way they are, and THEN the accelerator pack won't run at all. I keep getting "Windows Critical or Fatal Error" Messages and it just boots my *censored* out.

Does this help any? And yes, I was able to play FS X before the accelerator pack was installed. Now that I've unsintalled it, MS FS X runs just fine, just like before.....What video chip/card do you have ? ?In control panel, it just says Intel Media Graphics Accelerator Driver. I assumed it was the latest version since Dell doesn't put out pieces of crap. So I would say it's an Intel Driver I can achieve 1280 X 760 DPI with all the bells and whistles....An onboard vid chip probably does not meet the REQUIREMENTS of the accellerator pack...
Sorry.Okay that makes sense. I'll just head to Best Buy or Circuit city and get the latest state of the art graphics card and/or replace the onboard video chip.. Thanks again. You have been most helpful!!

TimQuote from: [emailprotected] on January 08, 2009, 10:21:43 AM

Okay that makes sense. I'll just head to Best Buy or Circuit city and get the latest state of the art graphics card and/or replace the onboard video chip.. Thanks again. You have been most helpful!!

Tim

I am trying to donate old computer (HP pavilion 6640C) to the salvation army. But first, I want to wipe all my personal info off computer. I took my new keyboard from my new Dell computer and using a usb connector, HOOKED new keyboard to old computer.

The problem is the old computer keeps telling me there is a keyboard error. I must press F1 or F2 to resume. I can't do either because the keyboard is not being recognized. So I can't move forward to do anything.

Please help!Just pull the HDD and donate it as is...
I never even after WIPING give any of my drives away.

But if you want to do this properly you may need a PS2 keyboard.
The other option is to just boot to any Windows CD and SELECT delete partition in the setup process...this will wipe any data although not completely if not done 7 times.

I have Vista...8 months old....Went to download sync for CELL phone....the drive won't work...did uninstall and install...tried 2 other DVDS...same thing....went and bought a new one...it is vista compatible.....still the same thing....it says that the drivers fail at loading....I am thinking it is not the dvds but something on the computer...I also went out to microsoft to have them scan my computer for any new UPDATES it may have needed.....it won't let me scan.....I have no clue .....any suggestions? Thanks.Can you see the drive in Windows Explorer, Device Manager, Disk Management?Yes, it is listed....all of them were....So, what exactly happens, when you put CD in?nothing happens....no sounds at all.....tries to download drivers....so it says...then COMES up with drivers failed....it did this on all of the dvds I tried.....I'm not sure if the original OS Drivers were damaged somehow or what.....to which I have no cd to upload them with....go figure... Vista doesn't need any extra drivers for optical drives.
Does Windows Explorer see the CD, when inserted?When you look at My Computer the drive doesn't show up. In device manager it does.
Try one of these:
1. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060
or...
2. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
or...
3. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.I will try #3 first.
Tried # 2 and 3....nothing happened....still the same.....Now to #1I'm sorry #2 did work so far. Thanks for all your help this has been driving me crazy.Nice

I'm running on a Windows 2000 machine, but recently, I've been getting a boot partition error. I've tried unplugging/replugging in the data cable and running the system disk's "repair" option, as both have worked in the past, but to no avail.

AMD Athlon 3.3GHZ CPU, 512 MB RAM, MSI K7N2 Delta motherboard, 160 GB HHD, nVidia GeForce 9600 video card.

It happened the last time that my computer died on me. I was working with BitTorrent running in the background, and Explorer, Microsoft Word, and Adobe READER open.

Any assistance is appreciated.

Note: The computer was CUSTOM build by me in 2004. The video card, power supply, and hard drive have been replaced recently (within the last year or two). Everything else is still original to the machine.What does the error say?
Is your computer operable?It flashed too fast for me to catch it competely. I'll see if I can catch it for a direct copy, though.

The computer does boot, but never gets to the windows loading screen.

EDIT: The message is "Couldn't open the boot partition to check for a signature". *got lucky and ejected the CD before it could load*Quote

*got lucky and ejected the CD before it could load*

it could if the molex connector was faulty

Quote from: Kurtiskain on January 15, 2009, 02:54:02 PM

it could if the molex connector was faulty

molex being the "red, black, black, white" set of cords?

Quote from: Kurtiskain on January 15, 2009, 02:54:02 PM

it could if the molex connector was faulty

molex being the "red, black, black, white" set of cords?

this may be a simple question but here GOES. I shut down my computer which i seldom do but when i turned it back on my keyboard isnt working. I FIGURED it had just gone bad so i went and bought a new one but it doesnt work EITHER. and when i go to my computer hardware it isnt detecting any keyboard at all. Can anyone HELP me please
thank you
marybethTry using a usb port, or if you are TRY other usb ports.or, a PS/2 port, if one exists on your PC.Thank you, I will try that. Marybeth

I have a project I am working on in which I need to Play Audio and Receive Mic input at the same time through the sound card for communications, and two applications are competing for the sound card causing issues, its either one app or the other that can initialize the sound card and I cant get them to use the single sound card at the same time. SO that being said, is it possible to install two sound cards and use a simple stereo phono cable to send the output of the one sound card into the MIC input of the other sound card, and not have the software competing for sound resources.

Windows Media Player ( Playing audio files ) Has to use the primary sound device to play audio that the 2nd sound device will receive.

Yahoo Messenger Voice is the other ( which needs to use the 2nd sound card with the MIC input from the output of the other sound card playing the voice audio.)

Is there a way to specify which application will initialize a specific sound card so that they dont compete for resources?

Any suggestions?

I have this working with 2 COMPUTERS one playing the audio and the other establishing a Yahoo Messenger Voice link.

*** Ok I might as well explain what i am doing... This is so I can play music at work btw so I can listen to my MP3 collection at home over the internet. I am using RDP to connect to home computer and play audio off one system through the other through Yahoo Messenger Voice ( For Free )...and its legal because I am playing MY CD's that I bought etc and I can only connect to listen to them.

I am the IT Pro at my workplace, and we put up a sonic wall to block youtube and streaming audio...etc, and I dont WANT to have a system on the DMZ to get audio, and dont want to set up a VPN. This works and I am trying to IMPROVE the design to eliminate the 2nd system that is acting as an audio gateway between home and work over Yahoo Messenger Voice... Trying to cram all that into one box and I am thinking that I will need to find a way to designate which audio application will use each specific sound card to eliminate the conflict since they both cant share a single sound card without competing for the resource and erroring out. So looking to set up a DUAL Audio setup and redirect the audio out of one card to the MIC input of the other so both applications will play together in harmony.

There are other methods of playing music at work etc, external HD, Thumb drives, etc, but I really want to go this route of streaming it from home in this method, because the audio is secure and its just a cool setup. Also I can have my audio from anywhere with an internet connection while on the road without the need for local storage of the music etc.


OR if anyone knows of any virtual audio redirection software that would really make this work out well with virtual sound devices, because then the audio played can port directly to Yahoo Messenger Voice without any resource issues. Sort of like a player for Yahoo Messenger Voice to bypass the MIC input, that would be an AWESOME tool.
Quote

Is there a way to specify which application will initialize a specific sound card so that they dont compete for resources?

My HD failed a few days ago and i installed a new one. i restarted with the disks that came with the computer and the windows setup started as it normally should but when i GOT to the name your computer screen it wont go any FARTHER. I have tried unplugging and replugging everything. REINSTALLING again, NOTHING WORKS. I dont know what else to do short of taking to the shop but my husband is squawking about spending the money after buying the HD. Any ideas?

ScstaceyIs this new drive a sata or a ide?

I have a Insignia bluetooth wireless headphones that I WANT to use to listen to my Viso VO37L flat screen TV. So I put a Soundblaster Audigy soundcard in my spare computer and connected the TV headphone jack to the input line of the soundcard. I can now have the TV audio playing through the computers speakers. The problem is that no matter what I try I can't get the signal to the headphones. I have WIDCOMM bluetooth 5.1.0.3900 software installed on the computer and it works fine ,I can hear all WINDOW XP sounds as well as the media player and other software audio. I tried USING a few recording software programs thinking I could use the monitoring feature to hear the in-line input, but even though I could record the input and hear the replay I couldn't hear the monitor. This whole Idea seemed so simply but not I am thinking that "you can't get there from here". If ANYONE knows what I am missing I would appreciate the help. Thanks. in the volume control panel in windows, ensure the line in is unmuted, under both recording and playback.

To OPEN the volume control, click start > Run and type in sndvol32

to get to the recording side, click options then properties, and you can select the recording tab.

Hope this helps

Kurtis

Am not real sure but think this is a hardware problem. I want to be able to play DVD movies on my DVD drive.

But when I insert disc, can find files in Windows Media but when I go to play the disc, get error code "Windows Media has encountered a problem and needs to close". I get no further than this.

Can advise?






Computer Specs:

Dell XPS400 Dimension
XP-Pro Version 2002 SP2
Pentium ® D CPU 2.80 GHz
2.79 GHz, 2.00 GB of Ram


E Drive – Sony CD-RW CRX217 E
IDE\CD Rom Sony
F Drive – HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW
GWA4164B

Video Card – Nvidia GeForce 6800

Sound Card – Sigma Tel High Defin.
Audio CODEC






VLC PLAYER: http://www.videolan.org/vlc/OK have downloaded file and have it installed - have yet to GIVE it a TRY. Rather LATE tonight to start so will give it a whirl tomorrow. Thanks so much for the download tip. Keep you posted how I do working with it. No problem...

It WENT as RANDOMLY as it CAME. THANKS again for all your HELP

hey peeps! I have an issue it seems with my computer monitor, or possibly Graphics chip (GPU). anyway the problem appered the other day, and again today. The screen on my monitor suddenly looked all broken and distrorted, and i could see the bars created by the electron beams flickering behind the image. this image stayed frozen on the screen until i manually shut off the computer unit, shutting off the monitor itself did not work, only the computer unit. thinking it may be my GPU i ran a diagnostics test on the GPU, video card and memory, but it detected nothing..although the test was simply to test the color generating capabilities of the GPU..not to detect faults in hardware. the bottom line is i think that the monitor may have an internal problem with the mecahnisms them selves, or something is malfunctioning, because of the flickering! does anyone know what could be wrong for sure? all of these speculations is just me testing novice troubleshooting skills i think a new monitor may be in the question soon....Be fore buying a monitor see if you can use another one to testOOOH okay! i have an LCD monitor on this comp would that work to unplug it and try it on the other comp?
LCD Monitors do not have electron beams

It is therefore your GPU, this happens when the memory is fried, or when you overclock too high. (possibly due to overheating too)

This happened on my old PowerColor 9600.
I took it out without grounding myself first, I put it in again and all it did was give big lines down the screen and artifacts everywhere!

I swapped out to a 9700 Pro and it was smooth sailing from there

Quote from: Kurtiskain on January 11, 2009, 11:52:28 PM

LCD Monitors do not have electron beams

LCD Monitors do not have electron beams

It is therefore your GPU, this happens when the memory is fried, or when you overclock too high. (possibly due to overheating too)

This happened on my old PowerColor 9600.
I took it out without grounding myself first, I put it in again and all it did was give big lines down the screen and artifacts everywhere!

I swapped out to a 9700 Pro and it was smooth sailing from there

Quote from: Kurtiskain on January 11, 2009, 11:52:28 PM

LCD Monitors do not have electron beams

and even if they did- a monitor is not going to cause the computer itself to freeze.

Quote from: BC_Programmer on January 12, 2009, 01:59:15 AM

Quote from: Kurtiskain on January 11, 2009, 11:52:28 PM

LCD Monitors do not have electron beams

and even if they did- a monitor is not going to cause the computer itself to freeze.

also knew that i was just making sure it wasnt the monitor ...*is trying to learn about comps still...* and will make mistakes diagnosing

do you think it could have been damaged by the smorgasbord of dust i blew out of the case when i replaced the RAM?

The jury is still out on whether a bad graphics card damages the monitor
or vice versa.

the card them proceeded to die a violent death.

I love how I managed to squeeze the words torture, violent, and Death into a short story about computer hardware. makes it more colourful.

It was actually a quiet death... but that isn't very exciting, is it?

My friend got a laptop that has an ATI radeon X1200 graphics card and I was wondering what the equivalent of this would be for a desktop. Would it be able to play some older games like rome total war?Here's a link to the the laptop-
http://www.emachines.com/products/products.html?prod=eMD620-5777Are you thinking of upgrading a video card in a desktop computer? Why your question?I just want to know if the graphics card on that laptop could support rome total war because i have no idea how good laptop graphics cards are.I can't answer that; I'm not a gamer. Maybe Calum will see your post. He can probably give you some good info on this.i don't think so
quake 4 gets 2fps in battle scenes
age of empires III gets 25 on the lowest settings
you might be able to get away with only playing small games- but as i remember even my old ATI 9800Pro (or something like that) lagged on MEDIEVAL II total war.Quote from: Blade285 on January 09, 2009, 03:58:16 PM

i don't think so
quake 4 gets 2fps in battle scenes
age of empires III gets 25 on the lowest settings
you might be able to get away with only playing small games- but as i remember even my old ATI 9800Pro (or something like that) lagged on medieval II total war.

My friend got a laptop that has an ATI radeon X1200 graphics card and I was wondering what the equivalent of this would be for a desktop. Would it be able to play some older games like rome total war?

Quote from: joevh09 on January 09, 2009, 12:09:12 PM

My friend got a laptop that has an ATI radeon X1200 graphics card and I was wondering what the equivalent of this would be for a desktop. Would it be able to play some older games like rome total war?

Are there multiple "Rome" games for the PC? Because a friend of mine had a similar sounding Rome game, and he couldn't get it to do anything on a laptop he had, that was brand new about 3 years ago. Being brand new didn't mean much, but he did play other games games on it that were also new at the time. I just remember him saying that Rome was a game that he couldn't get to play on any of his PC's.

Hi all, I'm new here, could use some help.

Christmas EVE while playing some Left 4 Dead my computer randomly SHUT off. I figured it overheated or something and let it sit for a while. When I went to turn it back on again the fans just spun for a second then it died again. It did this every time, so I removed the parts one by one to try and find a problem. Turns out when the video card is not seated it starts running just fine, even the fan on the card runs. But when it's back in it refuses to boot again.

I tried resetting the CMOS, but to my dismay it didn't help. I have no BACKUP card or anything to test, and no onboard video so I'm stuck in the dark here. I sent the video card back for RMA and had to wait 2 1/2 weeks due to Xmas and New Years. (great timing I know) So when I finally got it back I figured all would be RIGHT with the world again. But of course with my luck, it did the exact same false start thing. So I've got it narrowed down to the motherboard mainly, or possibly the video card still, or on a long shot the power supply, but this whole setup has worked fine for many months so I really don't know.

My specs are:
Windows XP
AMD Athlon x2 6000+
MSI NX8800gt OC
4 gigs of ram
Asus M2N-SLI mobo
500W psu

None of the parts there are more than 10 months old. Any help is really appreciated.Borrow a power supply of EQUAL or greater wattage and see if it boots.

I HAVE A HP ZE2000 THAT DOESNT WANT TO POWER ON. IT WORKED FINE ALL DAY THEN I WENT TO SLEEP AND TRIED TO TURN IT ON AND IT JUST WONT POWER ON AT ALL. IT DOESNT DO ANYHTING AT ALL. ANY SUGGESTIONS AS TO WHAT IT COULD BE WOULD BE GREAT!!!Sounds like your power supply is dead.
Have you tried plugging it into a DIFFERENT outlet.YES I HAVE TRIED OTHER POWER SUPPLIES AS WELL. THE ONLY THING I HAVENT TRIED IS A NEW BATTERY.Some ideas= http://en.allexperts.com/q/Laptop-Problems-2010/Laptop-won-t-turn.htm
http://www.pctechbytes.net/forums/showthread.php?s=d420c899bc903a592995d6aee38f5eca&t=15200
http://www.techsupportforum.com/hardware-support/laptop-support/330210-major-hp-help-needed.html
goodluck,truenorthTHANKSCaps lock problem too?Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on January 14, 2009, 04:07:50 AM

Caps lock problem too?

NO CAPS LOCK PROBLEM THAT I KNOW OF IT WORKED FINE WHEN I LAST USED IT.

A few days ago I took apart my laptop to see if my processor was removable. My dad was watching over me and after I removed the heatsink (I think that's what it's called. It's the part connected to the fan and DIRECTLY above the processor) a small greasy sticker-like thing ripped, half was left on the processor and the other half the bottom of the heatsink. He said that it was processor grease needed to keep my PC from overheating and that I should replace it.

Is this true, or was it something else like a "void warranty if broken seal"?Sounds like it was a thermal pad, used to transfer heat.
You need to replace this with some thermal paste after cleaning the remainder of this pad, or your CPU will overheat. Do not run that laptop without properly applying new thermal paste or you may cause irreparable damage.
Your warranty may be void now that you've ripped the pad though, it depends on the terms and conditions.most warranties are void the moment you open the case.That all depends on the terms.
The warranty on my laptop was not voided by me opening it up, adding more RAM, and replacing all the thermal pads with proper thermal paste.
There were also no "warranty void if..." stickers. On other computers however those stickers are everywhere. I think it depends what mood the guy on the assembly line is in Thanks everyone I'll replace the thermal paste right AWAY

Today I went to frys and bought a "non silicone heat transfer compound". Is this the same thing?
Pics:



Yep, that's thermal paste.
Not high quality paste, but it'll do the JOB, and there's usually not a massive difference anyway between different pastes.
If it didn't come with instructions, all you need to do is FIRST clean the processor and heatsink, with a soft wipe or tissue paper and a dab of rubbing alcohol, until all the old paste is gone. Then, wait for it to dry out (don't touch either the heatsink or CPU with your finger) and apply a small amount of this compound to the CPU - about the size of a ball bearing, maybe a little less. Get the heatsink back on, fan connected etc, and you're ready to rock.
Good luck.Thermal Paste Guide

this is a problem with a toshiba a135..i have read all of the information relating to this topic but it does not address the following problem..

even though i change the bios to register the cd drive as the boot device when it goes to boot in the boot device window options only the HDD and lan are listed as bootable devices..in the bios it lists cd/dvd hdd fdd and lan..

i have both a HIRAM bootable utilities disk that is good and usable..a toshiba repair disk and a widows installation disk but because i cant get the computer to ACKNOWLEDGE the cd as a bootable device it is not accessing these..the cd/dvd drive spins as though it is reading and attempting to read but it is not acting like a bootable device..

what options do i have..

thanks

keithCan you set it up to boot via USB, then create a Bootable USB thumb drive?

The CD/DVD combo drive may have issues with booting bootable disks - or - in some cases I have SEEN it before with the combo drives and BIOS's where the OPTICAL combo drive does not have legacy support for booting bootable disks in its firmware with the instructions contained within the BIOS. These drives operate fine when Windows launches and Windows supports the combo drives firmware which is non-legacy mode. *** Most systems however have combo drives that have the legacy boot support and will boot bootable media fine. The combo drive I saw that had this issue was in a lower end 2 yr old cheapo Acer Laptop with a generic optical combo drive mfr. Toshiba shouldnt have this problem I would hope.hi dave..

what happens is the bios settings are being ignored for some reason..when you do f12 to select the bootable medium it only lists hdd and lan..so even though an fdd option is listed as number 4 on the bios setup it too does not show on the f12 select boot device option..

then only thing i can think of to try is take out the hdd and put it into an external case i have and reformat it there as a bootable system hdd if i can do that on another toshiba system i have..

keith

I received a Maxtor One Touch 4 Mini (250GB) for Xmas, installed it but can't get it to work. My Computer & Device Mgr. both recognize it. I did the Self Diagnosis and it says the drive is working properly. I downloaded the complete user's manual and found the details for performing a Simple Backup. I followed step by step till I got to where it says "Enter a name for your Backup Plan and click OK". It then says "The Backup window now offers the options of editing your backup settings and......"

Only problem is that after clicking "OK", no options appear! I've been to SEAGATE's website and found no help. Is anyone familiar with this drive and can TELL me what I'm doing WRONG?I'm not sure, but did you enter a name like it asks?

What Operating System are you using?I tried it both ways. By default, "Our Backup" is entered in the name box. I also tried changing it to "My Backup" and still got nothing. I'm running XP Home with all the service packs and updates installed.

It's also set to perform a simple backup every nite at 10:00 and this AM there was nothing in the backup log. Several times I've clicked "Backup Now" and get nothing. Should I completely uninstall it and start over?That's what i would try...I finally got time to spend on this problem. I powered off the computer and disconnected the cables. I reconnected the cables in the proper ORDER to a powered USB hub. I checked and the drive (K:) shows up in Device Mgr. & My Computer. I tried to reinstall the software and got: "Error 1603 fatal error during installation. Consult Windows Installer Help (msi-chm or MSDM). I Googled the error message and got a bunch of people trying to sell their registry cleaners. I ran my own registry cleaners thru Registry Mechanic and CCleaner. All problems they found were repaired and I still get the error message when I try to reinstall. Seagate has a download for software that has been deleted. Can I delete the CURRENT software and download new? If so, how do I proceed? Christmas wasn't that long ago...i would return the drive for a replacement.Ditto Patio...

Alan <><

I just got my computer assembled and powered it up last night. After a quick fan cable adjustment, it booted up (YEA!) into the BIOS. Now, I went and CHANGED the boot sequence to look to the DVD drive first so I can load windows. Other than that, is there anything that I need to pay attention to or CHANGE? My intention isn't to do a LOT of wierd or custom stuff with the computer. I see that I can set voltages, fan speed (still can't get the mb to monitor the fans...), CPU ITEMS, etc, etc, but I'm not SURE what that gets me. Just wanted some opinions on which defaults should be changed and which best left alone. Any thoughts welcome. thanks!!
Leave as is.You can in the future update your bios.

Hey all- My monitor went black. When I power up, I can see the Windows graphics...then it GOES black. I can see the mouse ARROW and move it around.
Went to GET new monitor...same thing.
Any suggestions?The monitor went black....but you can see the mouse?

Is this a laptop or desktop?

When did this start?

What Operating System?it's a desk top. I went to get a new monitor...but same thing. I am running Windows XP. It started about a week ago. Would a new video CARD make a difference?First try re-installing the video drivers...did this machine come with a driver CD ? ?I can't. One of the kids got a CD stuck in the CD drive. Any clue on how to un-jam this? I have tried various things to pry it open without breaking it...no go.
thanks for your reply.There is a pinhole in the front of the CDROM...straighten a paper clip and insert it there and press til the door opens.
This will work with or without power to the unit...Sounds like you might have to remove the drive and take it apart. Be careful and you should be successful

Alan <><

Hi Patio

I'm using a PC which bought 4 years ago to retrieve a data CD burnt a few years ago. I can see the list of files in all the folders and subfolders but when I try to open or copy them, it failed. Is there any way to copy all these files to another drive.select all then copy to a folder you create on your hard drive...If you cannot copy the files on the CD to the computer, then either SOMETHING's up with your CD Drive or with the disc itself.

Are there any SCRATCHES on the CD?

Can you try another computer?Files burned in an old computer can still be read on a new computer.Try this...I used it today on a DVD and it worked great

http://www.recoverytoolbox.com/cd.html

It's free tooIt looks like a nice tool...Grabbed it...Thanx.
And i have a 1/2 dozen CD's to test it on... Of course in DVD's and music you can still get artifacts/slips/ETC using it because it cannot always read it all...but it GETS AROUND the whole "Windows cannot read this because it tried once and gave up"Quote from: Broni on January 11, 2009, 09:47:19 AM

It looks like a nice tool...

The tool will be indispensable in the following cases:

* media being physically damaged (scratches, exposure to liquids, etc.)
* the format of the media being corrupted by the software for writing disks
* OS failures while reading and accessing the media
* and so on and so forth

Before BUYING a new PC!

Basically i just recently purchased some new ram ( THANKS to the kind folk here ) but my Graph Card still holds me back.

At the moment i've got

P4 3.2Ghz 478 Socket ( Not Overclocked )
Nvidia FX5500 256 MB
2GBXMS Duel Channel Ram DDR400

Now the CPU has never given me any hassle so im happy with that but im looking to upgrade my Graph Card to something with a bit more of a bite, But as i've only got 270WPSU you can guess i'll need to upgrade that to support it.

I was thinking of this.

http://www.play.com/PC/PCs/4-/5416296/Sapphire-ATI-Radeon-HD-3850-512MB-DDR3-AGP-8X-Graphics-Card/Product.html

+

http://www.play.com/PC/PCs/4-/8284362/CiT-Silent-Technology-600UB-600W-PSU-Power-Supply-Unit/Product.html

Now i think that should be enough but im not 100% if my Mobo supports that particular graphic card.

http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=P4I65G - Is my Mobo.

Any ideas if this will all work fine?

Looking to keep my system alive for another year or so.

Any help would be appreciated, thanks. I'm guessing you're in the UK?
The 3850 is the most powerful AGP card, and almost certainly the last. Your motherboard will support it too.
Is a better GPU worth £94.99 to you though? What sort of games do you play?
I think you're best saving that money towards a new build, but that's just me.
I also wouldn't trust that power supply.
My suggestions are this if you're really serious about it, or this otherwise, with this PSU (room for future upgrades, so one less thing to BUY for your new PC.Im from the UK.

Well i mainly Play Counter strike souce at the moment and granted my FX5500 can handle it pretty well, not all on high with all shiney but still enough to play 5on5.

But im looking for a graphics card that can walk over games such as Left 4 Dead, COD4 on High.

I DONT know if it's possible with my current system but i'd like something close to that.

You'll be held back significantly by your CPU in newer games, but if you really want the best performance you can get with that system, the Radeon 3850 is the only option.Quote from: Psyhikes on January 11, 2009, 07:32:28 PM

Well i mainly Play Counter strike souce at the moment and granted my FX5500 can handle it pretty well, not all on high with all shiney but still enough to play 5on5.

I have put a second HDD into a PC running Windows XP Home Edition with SP3. In Disk Management, the NEW drive appeared as "unallocated". I created a new partition and formatted it. I could write data to it and read it without any problems.

I then shut down the PC, re-started it and went into Windows Explorer. The new drive did not appear. In Disk Management, the new drive appeared as "unallocated". I created a new partition and formatted it. I could write data to it and read it without any problems.

I then shut down the PC, re-started it and went into Windows Explorer. The new drive did not appear. In Disk Management...

...well, you get the picture.

Would be very grateful for any suggestions. By the way, I have tried more than one HDD and do not believe they are all faulty. Also, they work OK in another PC.


(P.S. I know I made a similar post a week ago and before I get my knuckles wrapped by a moderator for not continuing the original thread, I would like to explain why I haven't: In the light of the additional information I have gathered since, the original title "Help with mobile/removable drive" is misleading and might put off someone with ideas. I am now not using my mobile racks at all and still have the same problem so it had nothing to do with them.)Very strange indeed and i admit being stumped...
A few things you can try though:
Replace the data cable for the drive...is it SATA or IDE ? ?
Use the drive manuf. diagnostic utilities to partition and format it for use and see if it does the same thing.
This is a new one on me. The only other thing it could be is a bad MBoard CONNECTION that causes intermittent troubles with the drive.Many thanks for your further suggestions, Patio. My drives are IDE.

I started a download of the manufacturer's utility program. While that was "cooking" on another PC (took nearly an hour!), I changed the connection of the drive in question. It was on the middle of the IDE2 controller with my DVD drive at the end which works fine. Now it's on the middle of the IDE1 controller with my main drive at the end which also works fine.

It's unlikely that the mobo has a fault on both controller connections or that both controller cables are faulty but nothing is impossible! I haven't tried replacing the cable yet but will do so.

When the download finished, I installed it on the PC with the problem, ran the program, reformatted the drive copied some files to it and restarted the machine. Just the same: "unallocated"!!

Sorry I've got you stumped but if you think of anything else I can try as well as changing the controller cables, I will be very grateful for any suggestions.

PeteI have now tried another controller cable and still the same happens.

I find it so strange that, after reallocating the drive, it works correctly (but only until I shut down the PC). Can that really be a mobo fault?

As always, I would be very grateful for any further suggestions.Does the BIOS recognize the hard drive? I am definitely not trying to insult your intelligence, but did you double check the jumper setting.(slave) I'm also wondering what file system you USED to format the drive?Many thanks for our response, Smitty, and don't worry; I never take constructive suggestions as insults!

Yes, the drive appears correctly in BIOS and, as you have probably read, even in Windows after each re-partitioning & re-allocating exercise.

Yes, I've checked the master/slave setting too. Even on a controller of its own, setting that either way does not fix the problem.New cable tried yet ? ?Yes. Didn't fix the problem.This simply doesn't make any sense ...EXTENSIVE searching for similar issues hve turned up nothing.
You stated you had other drives...does this happen with more than one drive ? ?Quote from: patio on January 14, 2009, 07:43:56 AM

This simply doesn't make any sense ...extensive searching for similar issues hve turned up nothing.
You stated you had other drives...does this happen with more than one drive ? ?

This is my first post; don't know if I'm on the right board.

The B, N, Up, Down and Right arrow keys on my friends laptop only work when he holds down the FN or Shift key, any help would be appreciated.
When did this start?

Any RECENT downloads/installs/hardware changes/settings changes/ect...?

What model laptop is it?first tell about laptop ?
just clean the keyboard and use it againQuote from: GOGS on January 09, 2009, 07:50:26 AM

first tell about laptop ?
just clean the keyboard and use it again

Today I turned on my computer and the sound just didn't work. I tried RESTARTING and it didn't help. It's not on mute and the sound is turned up to the LOUDEST. I checked all sound settings and it said that it's working properly. But there's absolutely no sound!assuming you have not recently changed nor added any new hardware associated with sound.have a look at hardware/device manager and report any yellow exclamation or question marks. I assume we are dealing with external powered speakers here. Try another SET of speakers plugged into the appropriate sound output jack. truenorthDo a system restore to before the problem started. Go back a couple of weeks.Quote from: JJ 3000 on January 13, 2009, 06:00:16 PM

Do a system restore to before the problem started. Go back a couple of weeks.

Hi all, I'm wondering how do you compare system requirements of your PC to a pc game your buying?

I'm speciifically talking about a graphics card. How do I KNOW if it's even going to work? I know you need to look at the requirements on the box and see if it compares to your COMPUTER. But how do you know if it compares or if it's the RIGHT one?

I hope you get my quesiton.

Thank you.Can you post your system &AMP; also the card you intend on buying?

I have been USE my laptop and begin to black screen and SPECIFY media TEST failure, check cable (PXE-E61) and Exiting PXE ROM (PXE-M0F). I try some of the solutions you have on the page but someones I don't understand. Please help me. I need them for the university studies. Thanks:(Go to BIOS. MAKE sure, that the boot order reads: floppy, CD, HD
Disable Boot from Network (wording is different on every machine, may say Integrated NIC, Network, PXE-xxxxxxx)

Hi, all. I'm working on building my first computer, and ran into a problem. Here's what I've got for hardware:

Apevia X-Sniper case
Asus M3A78-EM motherboard
Raidmax RX-530SS power supply

Also have a Sata2 HD and a DVD burner, I can pull the MODELS but really don't think it matters.

here's the problem. Got everything put into the case (surprisingly easy) and started to hook up cables. motherboard instructions talk about having power pins Pwr_fan, CPU_fan, and CHA_fan so that it can use it's SmartQ fan option (I assume). I got the CPU fan plugged in, but the other two are three pin (grnd, 12v, rotation). Naturally, there is no instructions for the power supply, just cables. There are no 3-pin connectors. The fan on the cpu has a standard 4-pin plug, and there is a cable to tie that to the PS. I have cables for the drives also, so I think I can figure that one out (although is it better to run one cable for HD and one for DVD or put both on the same?). the PS fan is a mystery, since I'm not sure about where to put that on the supply side either. I got the SATA cables finally figured out, but this one has be stumped. I suspect that I need some cables, but I might just not be seeing SOMETHING right. Any suggestions? Much appreciated. Thanks!

Hi,
Plugin CPU fan to motherboard, MAKE sure redwire correct ,(see motherboard handbook)
HD needs own cable PS, CD needs own too.
very esasy if you read through motherboard handbook
some wire from case (power I/O) ned rewire if need
try next step, I may help.
The motherboard manual is where I got the info, and it is very unhelpful about the fans. The issue I have is how to connect a chasis fan with four pins into a motherboard socket with three. and the PS fan is already powered by default, but somehow I'm supposed to hook up something to DRIVE it from the motherboard. that's where my confusion comes.If You have drives with 40 pin cable, need to BUY adapter convert to SATA (HDD) $15.00-$20.00
Other fans can plug in 12v ports, if need buy some Y cables to get more plugs
some fans they have combine cables you cam plugin anyway,
Please give me some more details?

I have a Compaq laptop, V3700 which i bought just last year, OS is Windows Vista, I dont have a knowledge about computer troubleshooting so pls bear with me. I use this just for surfing the internet, media files store keeping. My question is, before, whenever i close the lid of mylaptop, it goes into SLEEP, no matter how many hours it is close, and when i open the lid it asks me for my password. But now, i close the lid, it goes into sleep still, but when i open it, the screen is just blank, no activity on the screen. So i press the power button for 2 or 5 seconds to turn it off. Then hit the power button again, then it gives me a windows error recovery message saying i didnt shut down my computer. I always choose the "Windows START normally" since i am not sure what other options mean, like the safemode etc. I have already tried changing the power settiings thinking it could be the cause but it still gives me a blanck screen after opening the lid. What should i do to fix it? Any HELP is greatly APPRECIATED. Thanks.

Is there a way to reset my video card? XFX 6800 GTX
My pc won't boot up past the windows screen after I updated my video drivers.
and the arrow keys don't let me choose another way to boot. Strange.. Like Last Best
It says no Video Input and starts the boot up all over again.Can you GET it to Safe Mode by tapping the F8 KEY at boot? Then uninstall the video driver? Was this acting up before the driver CHANGE?It was woring fine till i updated the video drivers, f8 dosen't work all i can do is enter the bios.Are you tapping, or pressing F8 key?I tryed both and it still wouldn't enter. The card just wouldn't work, so I called XFX and they are going to repair it since I had a lifetime warranty. Kind of hard to replace it since its a XFX 6800 Extreme AGP.
Lucky I got this laptop for my birthday sat.
Thanks GuysNo problem
Stop by anytime.

In the recent Laura Croft movie she wore a single eye piece video display while using here laptop outdoors. Looks so cool! I want one. But everybody has virtual video glasses for 3-d reality games. I just want it to USE may laptop without having my face in front of the laptop. And I just want one eye. I want the other eye to be in the open. Does ANYBODY understand what I mean? I have tried GOOGLE and it gives me the two eye kind.
I want the one eye.
Just like Popeye!take a monocle, place it in the eyepiece to a telescope, and TADA! there you go!



Lara Croft also wears tube tops, but I still only WEAR those on sundays.

I found at the back of my garage an old armada 1510.
it is clean with no operating SYSTEM in it doesn't have a USB socket or a cd drive just a floppy..
As I like playing with impossible things I want to know.
1 if I get a lan card with usb sockets can I use this to put in an os.
2 if I can do this I do not have an independent drive (got three old but working cd drives from a desktop could I use?) could I CONNECT my working LAPTOP and use this to download.
3 I have an old separate IBM drive with a bc37? plug on it is there an adaptor?

Why the question yu ask..... coz its there and it bugs me to throw it away!

what would you suggest apart from the obvious
thankyouyou could donate it...if you could find someone who would ACTUALLY take it...LOL

Good Luckmakes a great doorstop!

I thought SD-RAM was a reference to AMD cpu compatibility, but I am looking to buy the following:

http://www.newegg.comProductProduct.aspx?Item=N82E16820231047

I matched specifications to the Asus board with a 2 GHz Intel Celeron, and want to make sure this is a correct choice to pair with the the Asus/Celeron 478 socket form factor.

I know I want 184 pin DDR (not DDR2 or DDR3, as they are not physically compatible with the Asus P4S800MX board.)

Thanks!The SD in SDRAM stands for Synchronous Dynamic Ram. DDR RAM is SDRAM, the DDR stands for Double Data Rate. Most Mobos use SDRAM. Most AMD and Intel boards use SDRAM. There are some that use RDRAM, but those are few and far between.

The LINK in your post doesn't seem to lead anywhere (am i alone in this?)

as long as the new RAM will fit into your RAM slots on your board then you should be GOOD to go. The speed of your RAM is important. The slowest DIMM on your motherboard will set the speed of the other sticks you add. They will automatically adjust to match the speed of the slowest one.

If you travel to http://www.crucial.com/ and let them scan your computer, they will tell you exactly what you have installed and what you can add. You don't have to buy from them but you can find the exact specs of the memory you need.Check other websites and they will tell you the type of ram you require and what speed they support. I found your motherboard at the link below i think you cant go wrong with the pricing and guarantee they offer:

http://www.diahmemory.com/asus-p4s800-mx-motherboard-ram.htmlI was pretty sure I had it right, but I'd swear I saw ads that used SD-RAM and DDR to describe the same RAM. I still say the DDR is for Intel processors, and the SD is for AMD.Quote from: Aegis on January 12, 2009, 01:18:53 AM

I still say the DDR is for Intel processors, and the SD is for AMD.

I have machines that use both SDram and DDR. From my experience they are not interchangable the SDRAM slot has two alignment pins and the DDR has only one. I am pretty sure the SDRAM is older. Actually they are both on desktops that use Intel processors.

Yesterday i bought a computer with cd-rw. And the seller gave me a cd that is playing in the drive but my cd is not playing even it is not having scratches,dust or anything else and that is a cd-rom. Please help.
Well if you just bought it then I would TAKE it back, but have you tried a different Cd in there? Try putting a music Cd in and a software Cd in the drive. Does this drive show up in My computer and can you explore the Drive when a Cd is in?It may not have the audio cable that goes from the CD Drive to the sound card/Motherboard.

Take it back and get them to show you if it has the cable or not.
If they try to charge you for it, it should be free, don;t let them con you into PAYING more.on the other hand, one could just set the drive for Digital Playback; which is BETTER quality anyway.He could, but I wasn't 100% SURE if that was his problem QUOTE from: Crafty on January 10, 2009, 03:22:43 AM

Well if you just bought it then I would take it back, but have you tried a different Cd in there? Try putting a music Cd in and a software Cd in the drive. Does this drive show up in My computer and can you explore the Drive when a Cd is in?

I read somewhere that a possible cause of lockup/freezeup could be because of over heating or the fan not working? I have eliminated all forms of viruses/ worms ect. by RUNNING a complete scan, and I've also removed all spyware/ adware.
Besides physically looking at the fan is their a easy way to test it before replacing?As of what I know a problem with over heating and fan issues wouldn't cause you to freeze, it would most likely cause a crash for the over heating issue which was SET on by the fan issue. I'd have to say your problem lies else where. But if you want to double check just open up your side panel then turn on your computer and make sure you see the fans start.1. PLEASE, post some computer info:
- processor type, amount of RAM (hold Windows key, hit Pause/Break key)
- hard drive size/free space (open "My Computer", right click on hard drive letter, click "Properties")

2. Download, and install SpeedFan: http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php
Post your computer temperatures:



Provide processor info (hold Windows key, and hit Pause/Break key to FIND out).

3. Download HijackThis:
http://www.trendsecure.com/portal/en-US/tools/security_tools/hijackthis/download
by clicking on Download HijackThis Installer
Install, and run it.
Post HijackTHis log.Thanks Broni,

At the very moment I dont have access to the requested computer information. It is actually a friend computer.
I do know that it is a HP Pavilion a736n, if that helps any!
I will have access to this computer in a few and will try your advice
Thanks Again.
The speedfan download was installed last night.
We have monitor the temps and all temps are staying within a range of 105F.
(temps vary a few degrees either way)

"Assuming" that the check marks beside each reading indicates a "SAFE" operating range, I have eliminated "over heating" as the cause of freeze up/lockup?
Am I correct?

If so according to research both here and other sites, the next step would be to upgrade RAM.105 °F = 40.6 °C....is it while computer idle?
You still didn't provide any answer to my questions 1, and 3 from my previous reply.Broni,
The answer to question 1 and 3 will be provided soon. She will be bringing it to me at which time I will be able to provide the answer and requested information.

105 F is while the computer is being used.
No problem

Hi,

I have a Nvidia 7600go graphics card and i have it connected via a DVI cable to a full HDTV. The problem i am having is that i want to set the resolution to High definition, 1900x1080, but my laptops highest resolution is actually 1920x1200, which is slightly above 'HD'. How can i set my laptop up to show 1900x1080, or something to this effect.

At the moment the display is at 1280x1024 and the picture looks great, but if i put it up a level parts of the screen aren't shown on the TV and the text looks weird. Movies do play without any distortions though.

My hardware are nvidia 7600go, DVI-D cable to HDMI, Sony Bravia Z series HDTV.

Thanks in advance for any help.Have you installed the LATEST GeForce Forceware which has tools to adjust resolution outside of the normal windows display property page? The latest nVidia Forceware may have the dimension or one that is closer to WORK for you.

www.nvidia.comI have just DISCOVERED how to force the graphics card to output 1920x1080, BUT, It isn't. Text is still funny looking and some image is off the TV screen EVEN after applying CHANGES.

I am going to buy a Hard Drive and I wanted to know if I still have to look at the Seek Time and the Acsess Times of them like you did years ago???

And I need some help understanding DiMMs speed
When you SEE a DiMM that says 333 MHz does this meen that the Data is going in and out of the DiMM at a speed of 333 MHz??Quote from: nymph4 on January 12, 2009, 01:43:54 PM

I am going to buy a Hard Drive and I wanted to know if I still have to look at the Seek Time and the Acsess Times of them like you did years ago???

Is the Rotation speed tangengt vector the Speed of the Drive how fast it just speens???

My mum is TAKING my laptop (Sony Vaio C VGN-C25G/P) to her friend to find out why my computer runs so slowly, but there are deleted files that i do not want them to see, and i heard that even if i deleted the files from the recycle bin they will still be in the hard drive memory, could someone please help me? I want to know how they can access my hard drive and whether they can see all the deleted data and how i can prevent them from looking through my deleted data? please help! I really need help! Thank you so much!It's true, deleted files CAN be seen by other people, but you have to be ACTUALLY looking for deleted files. You can't just come across them in Windows Explorer. There are a couple ways to delete something permanently.

(1) You can completely fill your HD with some random data (movie files, etc.), and then delete the random data and repeat.

This, however, could take awhile.

(2) The other option is to find an application that does it for you. Something like this will do the overwriting for you. But I believe this only works if you haven't already deleted the file.

I'm sure there are other, better and more complete applications out there, but I haven't come across any.

Nihil sine Deo,
Sharkfin

P.S. Personal details are probably unnecessary for a computer problem.

(2) Are you serious? You're trying to hide porn, and your name is Zwack? Really?

How much time do you have till your mom gets your computer?

How did you go about deleting the files?

We may be able to help you speed up your computer.

Quote

List as much about your computer as possible. This includes operating system (what version of Windows you are using), service packs, computer make/model, RAM, hard drive, sound and video cards, current adware/spyware/virus programs being used on a regular basis, do you have a "real" Windows CD, etc.
Be as thorough as possible with your description of your problem. What happens exactly, error messages, if any, what happened before this started, what you have TRIED, are you the only user, type of internet connection, what you have done inside the case, etc.

Reboot in safe mode. Run dicks clean up.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on December 17, 2008, 07:09:28 PM

Reboot in safe mode. Run dicks clean up.

we've already established that the files he wants to prevent recovery of are not porn.

But I wouldn't worry too much...I doubt this guy has much reason to waste his time (it often takes hours) looking for your sex/rape/crossdressing/murder/underage drinking photos.

Wasn't implying it was porn...he asked how to delete files so as not to be viewed by a tech. The mentioned software does this???

Hey, I just replaced my monitor because it was cracked, all went well very easy 8 screws popped the LID off 2 places to connect to reconnect at and I FIGURED I was all finished and saved myself 300 dollars. Well i think i was wrong. Because when i jiggle the SCREEN and open and close the lid the back LIGHT just goes off. I open back up the lid make sure all the connectionss are tightly secured, nothing is loose...I seal it back up and the same problem occurs! Any ideas? Im working with a Toshiba Satellite M305D... Computer is only 2 months old so its not burned out from age. Did you use a service manual to assist you in opening the LCD screen?

nope didnt use a service manual, it was all very basicPerhaps a screw is short circuiting?

Or maybe the backlight isn't at fault, what type of monitor is this and have you checked for leaking CAPACITORS? May be the LCD inverter is bad or going bad...how do i check the lcd inverter and can you expand upon the screw causing a short? Thanks guysWhen you turn on the computer, can you see ANYTHING on the screen?
(Try holding it to the light, looking closely or from different angles)Quote from: banksrobbanks on December 19, 2008, 05:43:54 PM

how do i check the lcd inverter and can you expand upon the screw causing a short? Thanks guys

i am using a SONY DVDRW DRU-800A multi burner drive.
when i insert all the cd in my house, it start to run for about 10seconds, then it stop. when i click open the drive, it show that the cd is blank,( or i should say no data in the cd was shown).

BUT when i insert a DVD, it detects and everything seems working fine. i can play a dvd movie, install a dvd game.

In My computer, it detect my multi drive as DVD-RW Drive (D;).

the device manager show nothing wrong about the dvd drive . ( dun haf "! or ?" sign)

this problem start on the right on the day i DIY my computer.
i try to use tis multi burner to install the OS and hardware driver, it could not detect the cds therefore i change to a normal cd driver to install everything.( this should prove that all my cds i tried previously are in workable conditons.)

any kind soul pls give me addvice on wat when wrong. THX in advance.So this has happened ever since you got this?

Google says that drive doesn't support CD's.the DVD drive's drawer got paste the compact disc rewritable logo.
this website got the specs of this drive http://www.cdrinfo.com/Sections/Reviews/Specific.aspx?ArticleId=14084
this drive was given by a friend of mine and he CLAIM that that the drive is still workable.
but what i find it wired is because, if lets say the drive is spoilt, then i should not be able to read or wite DVD.
So i suspect that whether is there anything i should set or adjust so that the driver will read CD.Specifications

PART NUMBER DRU-800A
DRIVE TYPE Internal DVD±R/±RW Double/Dual Layer,
Dual Format DVD/CD Recorder
MEDIA & MODES SUPPORTED DVD-R/-R DL/-RW, DVD+R/DVD+R DL/+RW:
DVD-ROM, DVD-Video
CD: CD-DA, CD-ROM (XA), CD Extra, Video
CD, Photo CD*, CD Text, multi-session
READ/WRITE SPEED Write (DVD-R) 1X, 2X, 4X, 6X CLV, 8X,
12X P-CAV, 16X CAV max.**
Write (DVD-R DL) 2X, 4X max. ***
Write (DVD-RW) 1X, 2X, 4X, 6X CLV max. **
Write (DVD+R) 2.4X, 4X**, 8X ~ 12X P-CAV
max. **, 16X CAV max.**
Write (DVD+R DL) 2.4X, 4X max. ***
Write (DVD+RW) 2.4X, 4X, 6X CLV, 8X Z-CLV
max. **
Write (CD-R) 8X,16X, 24X ~ 40X P-CAV max.**,
48X CAV max**
Write (CD-RW) 4X, 10X,16X, 24X Z-CLV max. **
Read (DVD-ROM) 16X max.
Read (CD-ROM) 48X max.
SUSTAINED DATA TRANSFER RATE 21MB/s max (16X DVD-ROM)
AVERAGE ACCESS TIME 130 ms (DVD 16X)
135 ms (CD 48X)
INTERFACE EIDE (ATAPI
BURST TRANSFER RATE 66 MB/s Ultra DMA66
BUFFER MEMORY 2MB
POWER CONSUMPTION +5V 1.5A max., +12V 1.5A max.
DIMENSIONS (WxHxD) 5.75 X 1.63 X 6.75 inches
WEIGHT 2lbs.
PACKAGE CONTENTS Internal DRU-800A Double/Dual Layer
DVD Recorder
NeroVision Express™ DVD video editing
& authoring software
Nero™ Burning ROM SE CD/DVD mastering
software
Nero™ InCD™ drive letter recording software
Nero™ Showtime™ soft DVD player software
Nero™ BackitUp™ backup software
Black front panel replacement kit
ATAPI cable and mounting hardware
User’s Manual
SYSTEM REQUIREMENTS Pentium® III 800 MHz or faster (or equivalent)
CPU minimum. Pentium IV 1.6GHz or faster
(or equivalent) CPU is recommended for real
time video authoring/editing
128 MB of RAM (256 MB or more for Windows
XP Systems)
10GB of hard DISK space.
Windows® 2000 or Windows® XP Home or
Professional Operating Systems
WARRANTY One Year Limited
*Not supported with the bundled software, additional software required.
**High-speed DVD-R, DVD+R, DVD-RW
Ah, my bad.

Try this.

Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstal. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.If it still don't work try 314060 guided help run it to remove upper and lower filters.

Go Here--->http://www.sendspace.com/file/sszrnlQuote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on December 20, 2008, 02:38:02 AM

Ah, my bad.

Try this.

Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstal. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.

Alright, got this LCD panel from my brother, his friend gave it to him after finding it in his garage. It does not work, he said I could keep it if it didn't, so I figure if I can repair it for about $100 or so I'll be good to go.

Monitor Model: Sony SDM-HS73 17" LCD TFT display, manufacture DATE October 2003, serial 6099251.

CAUSE of failure: Unknown

EDITED

My diagnosis of the monitor:

Screen goes white when turned on, colored BARS appear throughout the middle of the screen. [EDIT]When the monitor is plugged in, I noticed a high pitch noise from the inverter, same thing when its turned on. Though, you'd think if the inverter was bad it would simply shut off, wouldn't it? The noise seems to be coming from a coil on the board, I'll snap a PHOTO of the inverter and controller and link it below. The coil in question will be circled, maybe some guru here can guess what it does exactly.[EDIT] Screen then goes black but the cathode in the bottom of the monitor stays on. Menu button doesn't work, the monitor does stay on however, which seems to indicate the inverter is good.

Probable causes:

Controller board
Bad cable (unlikely, but plausible)
Or, in a very unlikely case, the controller board isn't getting power from the inverter. Which could be a bad cable also.

Any help you could give finding a replacement controller and/or inverter for this monitor would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT

Here's the link to my photobucket album for the monitor

Hi,
I've recently bought a 'Akasa CASE fan' from PC world
I plug it into my motherboard ( three pin connection I think, cause it has three PINS on it)

I turn on computer and then the fan wont turn on.

I LOOKED in the BIOS under fan CONTROL and the board knows the fan are there and says that there running at 0 RPM
There's a setting on my board to change the fan speeds, I've set the case fan to 100% and it still didn't do anything.

Also, I have another case fan that came with my computer and that doesn't WORK either, but I'm not sure if it's ever worked.