Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

I believe he has tried using multiple partitions, but he's not online and I don't have his phone number to find out.As far as 48 BIT transfer is concerned, it's really quite easy to understand if KEPT SIMPLE. It's the "address width" in bits of the data bus.
Much more data can be simultaneously transferred over a 32 bit wide bus than across a 16 bit wide bus.
It is a fair bit more involved than this but think of the difference in traffic moving capability of a narrow country road and an 8 LANE motorway.Quote

I believe he has tried using multiple partitions, but he's not online and I don't have his phone number to find out.

Hi, I am thinking of selling my laptop and I would like to know how to wipe or clear everything on my computer. I watched the Gadget Show on Channel Five and they said that doing a Recovery on the computer won't clear everything on a computer.

Is there anything that I need to install to clear/wipe a computer to its ORIGINAL manufactoring state?

Also, deleted items in the Recycling Bin doesn't really get deleted even if you think you have deleted it. So, same question really how to clean/wipe recycling bin files?

Can you please provide website links for downloads please? And any advice you can OFFER me?

My laptop is a Advent 7030.

A good removal and recreation of partitions and formatting the drive would get rid of things for most people, but then you would have to reinstall the operating system to make it functional again. Do you have the right CD for this? There are also utilities that would write zeros to the drive which you MAY want to use, but probably are overkill.

Have you reinstalled Windows before? What version are you using? Do you have a floppy and a CDROM? These answers will provide with the technical ways to proceed.Quote

A good removal and recreation of partitions and formatting the drive would get rid of things for most people, but then you would have to reinstall the operating system to make it functional again. Do you have the right CD for this? There are also utilities that would write zeros to the drive which you MAY want to use, but probably are overkill.

Have you reinstalled Windows before? What version are you using? Do you have a floppy and a CDROM? These answers will provide with the technical ways to proceed.

Sometimes formatting or damaging the partitions can result in the restore CD's not being able to function ever again. (Part of the restore information is kept in hidden partitions on the hard drive.)

When you do a reinstall it usually automatically formats the drive anyway, so decide how secure you want to be. (That would be enough for me, because I am not a CIA operative.) If security is the overriding concern. do the full Department of Defense cleaning and hope for the best with a restore.

I am in the process of building a gamer I have a intel d915pbl MOBO along with a 775LGA P4 3.0 800 FSB
IT REQUIRES DDR2 PCIexpress x850xt sapharire, Thermal take typhoon cooler.thermal take 550watt psu, dvdrw/dvd drives and a 250gb sata hdd. EVERYTHING arrived on friday except for the HDD and the ram, I figured i could run a power test just to CHECK things out I figured if I turned it on with out ram that I would get beeps, but my fans I thought would run to let me know that all wasd well.
well as soon as i turned it on the board lit up and the cpu fan nudged and the lite in thefront of the case turned on but that is as far as it got the switch wouldnt turn it off i had to unplug the psu and the cpu fan never started to run, I have tripled check my connections, even unistalled mobo to bench test it to maKE SURE IT WASNT A GROUND ISSUE. my question is the problem be that there is no ram in the motherboard? or should everthing still turn on with out ram? I have power test mobos before with out all the componets installed, and I THINK I have tested with out ram, could the pc be just fine after i install the ram?You must have at least one stick of RAM to test. ahhh thx I'll sleep tonite btw i did google first but couldnt find it so I tried the next best THING CH thx:)

Hi,

I am not usually computer illiterate, but this one just baffles the heck out of me.
I am only going to tell you the problem, I will not bore you with the actual story.

The DANG computer won't boot, the lights flicker on and off, and nothing on the monitor, power supply gives this wierd buzzing noise.

I can assure you that my motherboard is fine, and ALSO my PS

Please help!!! :-?Seriously, if there's a story behind this, it'll help immensely. What did you do to the PC prior to the buzzing?

Welcome to CH, by the WAY. Without the story there can be no help. THINGS don't usually just "happen".

How can you be so sure the MB and the PSU are OK if the machine doesn't work? :-?

I suspect posting those LINKS would be against the forum RULES as would imping ANOTHER member be.
It would be wise if no other members added further COMMENTS to this THREAD.

I suspect posting those LINKS WOULD be against the forum rules as would imping another member be.
It would be wise if no other MEMBERS ADDED further comments to this thread.

I have a Dell 3.2 G on DSL using windows xp pro sp2. My question is, how can I geta games to work with my controler instead of the keyboard? I have the controler installed, and it WORKS great when on the windowes controler set-up and test, but when I go to play MYST, it will only work if I use the keyboard to control it. I have been thru all the FAQs, trouble shooting, and other things on both my COMPUTER and in the games programes, and I can not find anything that even mentions the use of a controler. All it talks about is using the keyboard to control the game. Any ideas on how to get it to work?I suggest you look over the game site again.. A lot of games do not support the use of a controller or joystick.MYST doesn't run with a controller period.If you really want a straight answer, contact the game manufacturer for support. I'm sure the answer is no however. As said earlier, many games do not support joysticks.

FlameThe game box usally TELLS if it supports a controller or not. But like everyone else said "most games unless its a first person shooter don't support it."
Quote

MYST doesn't run with a controller period.

Hi Computer experts!

I've got a question that's really BUGGING me, it would be wonderful if I could find a solution.

I have an Aureon 5.1 Sky soundcard. I want to the front two channels to be duplicated to the rear two, but the driver software provided by Aureon don't give this as an option.

Is there a piece of software which can do this?? The main uses are listening to MUSIC through WINAMP, movies through BSPlayer, Realplayer & PowerDVD. I've tried out many winamp plugins but haven't been able to find one.

The soundcard has Sensaura support, whatever that does.

Spec:

WindowsXP Pro SP1
AMD XP 2100+
1GB DDR RAM
Aureon Sky 5.1 surround sound card
also NVIDIA nForce Audio 5.1 on the motherboard, but this is crappy
Have you looked in your Control Panel under Sounds & Multimedia?
There should be a 5.1 SETTING in there.Quote

Have you looked in your Control Panel under Sounds & Multimedia?
There should be a 5.1 setting in there.

Can someone please tell me how to put windows 98 on a computer that currently has windows xp home edition?? I have the windows 98 cd, but when I put it in and try to install it it says: You cannot install Windows 98 while running this version of Windows. Start your computer in MS-DOS mode and then install Windows 98. So can anyone tell me how to start in MS-DOS so I can do this? Thanks! the easyest way is a boot diskQuote

the easyest way is a boot disk

IF you have a bootable Win98 CD just start the macchine with that in there. Make sure the machinne is set in BIOS to boot from CDROM first.

If not a bootable CD ROM, or if you want to do it the other day, bo to www.bootdisk.com for a free boot disk for any operating system.

In any case, you will want to delete all partitions, recreate a partion and format the drive prior to reinstall. Post back if you don't understand this.

Make sure and back up any data first, if needed. You may want to write down what devices are identified in Device Manager before blanking everything out.

Use your google button and read a lot. After that, ask if you have questions.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=how+to+install+Win98&spell=1

<-----------------

Did you run Everest, as GX1_MAN advised? What did it report for your sound card and video card?

What is the safest way? I don't want to use any KINDA liquid. But I will if I have to

Thanks,
Newbie Justinhttp://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=cleaning+LCD+screen&btnG=SearchThanks for the link I AWAYS search YAHOO! for some reason? I need to remember google!!
But thanks again the link it helped!

I currently am using a D-Link DGL-4100 wired router, but now that my gf has a laptop rather than a desktop, I'm looking at the D-Link DGL-4300. This seems to be the wireless version (still with wired ports of the one I have which is great b/c I'll be able to keep all the features of my current while just adding wireless functionality for the laptop. I was just wondering mainly as to the security/reliability of wireless routers. I live in an APARTMENT so distance shouldn't be a problem and as far as security, is it just a matter of settings to secure the network? I'm just looking for any suggestions, advice, or general information I should know before I make the switch. Thanks.Personally, i use a LINKSYS WRT54GL Which includes a security feature that only allows computers with a certain, determined alpha-numeric passcode to access the internet through this wireless setup. During the router setup, it gives you about 4 of these passcodes that you can use, meaning you can have 4 computers on the internet wirelessly at any time as long as they have those codes. This router cost me about $50 and works very well.

However be forewarned that there are compatibility ISSUES of some kind with this Linksys router and Comcast high speed internet. so if that is your Internet provider, get back to me before you invest in a linksys router, unless your sticking with your model. (which seems reliable, but is just unfamiliar to me)


according to people here http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16833127158 your router seeems to have a complicated setup process, but it does include security features, probably similar to what i described above.

Hope i answered your questioins

CharlieYou need to keep your router secure by buying a router with good encryption. I would say 128 encryption or higher. You will need to set MAC addresses, a password, just about everything it tells you really. Especially in an apartment, where you have neighbors all around you, so if you're not secure, you could have numerous amounts of people TAPPING in. You don't want that. it's more than hijacking an internet connection. It could mean files, etc.

FlameThe D-Link DGL-4300 is a rather pricey router. I bought a D-Link DI-524 a few months ago. I see newegg.com has a great rebate deal on it now: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16833127143

The DI-524 does offer 128Bit encryption, which Flame mentioned.The more encryption the better. Also, if a neighbor or anyone for that matter asks what kind fo router you have, I don't SUGGEST sharing that. Knowing what make or medel of router you have, people can find a WAY to bypass the internal firewall. You don't want that lol

FlameYes I do have Comcast for my ISP. The setup is a little complicated at first, but once you get the hang of it it's really not bad at all. Yeah, I would set up the MAC address filter, I was just making sure there wasn't anything wireless specific that I might overlook. Thanks.Sure thing. Come back and see us if you have any more questions.

Flame

Every since I switched to a KT600-A ECS motherboard from a A7V600 ASUS Motherboard (along with complimentary processor), my sound no longer works!

The system SAYS it's there, and I can play audio files, but no sound emerges from them!

I have tried EVERYTHING! I checked to make sure the speakers work (they do), tested other speakers (don't work either), made sure if things were muted or not, and tried multiple connections for my sound system to make it work. I have updated ALL DRIVERS! Microsoft (Windows XP here), Realtek (Oh! It's an AC97 Realtek sound system!), and motherboard. I even uninstalled-reinstalled the sound system countless time.

Yet, even after all that, it still won't respond. ;.; I just don't know what to do. I'm completely out of options! Please, PLEASE if ANYONE knows what could possibly be the problem, please help!Darkjester...... Have you tried clicking start/run ..... and in the run box type
dxdiag ....... and then enter ...... now click on the sound tabs ( there are several of them ) then click on the test button ....... follow the info on the screen . This may point you in the right direction .

dl65 Okay just tried that. When I opened the program, I saw this error: COuld not get basic sound info: 0x80070057 Invalid arguments. This came up twice.

I did the "Test Directsound" and answered no to the question(s) since I didn't hear anything. however, by doing so, it just went back to the program and nothing else happened. :/ Bad sign?When you switched motherboards did you reload Windows?Reload? How do you mean? I know when I started windows up it asked me to re-verify everything and went through the registration process again. If you mean like, reinstall it, then no. Should I do that?If you have the CD it is ALWAYS a good idea to reload Windows as the hardware is all different from the machine it was originally installed on. Alright... reinstalled windows xp... did everything that I did before over again to make sure... Still nothing. ;.; I'm getting so frustrated by this!!!

I tested dxdiag again and this is the message I got after sound test: Failure at step 19(User verification of hardware): HRESULT = 0x00000000 (error code).Nevermind!!! I fixed the problem. ^^ I don't... want to go into detail about it because it's actually something that was right under my nose and I feel embarrassed about it... thanks though!Darkjester.... there certainly no problem ...more often than not it's something simple ........ but for the sake of someone else with the same issue , it would be appreciated if you would post what had been overlooked .

Glad to hear your back up and running

dl65 Please tell us, I want to sleep tonight.

I recently PURCHASED a 'Home Built ' computer that works fine, with DDR Memory that I wanted to upgrade immediately. It came with 256mb of PC2100 (2 X 128). My Motherboard is a " ASUS A7M266-M, per Everest diagnostic.

I was given the following information by various "knowledgable" people.

1) The MoBo would support no more than PC2700/333mghtz . . .
2) I could use PC3200/400mghtz (sticks were available free) but they would RUN at PC2700 speed, no harm, . . (underclocking ?) . . . and
3) If I installed PC3200, the computer would not even boot up.

Since they were free, I installed the PC3200 (2 X 256 matching) and the computer runs SUPER. I downloaded EVEREST to check on a few THINGS, . . .and under MEMORY BUS PROPERTIES it says my "Effective Clock" is 405 Mghtz. Does this mean that the computer IS RUNNING WITH FULL USE/SPEED OF THE PC3200 STICKS. ... or could the computer REALLY be running at PC2700 speed and fooling this thing, just because its picking up that the installed sticks are PC3200.

I hope this is CLEAR enuff for someone to respond . . How can there be so many VARIED OPINIONS from learned people on an issue that should be Black or White ? THX.The memory will run at the lowest speed of any of the RAM chips.

There is a maximum speed of memory that can be utilized depending on the system bus.

here is the recommended memory for that board:

http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.asp?Mfr%2BProductline=ASUS%2B+Motherboards&mfr=ASUS&tabid=AM&model=A7M266&submit=Go

Thank You ! Who woulda thought I could install 2048mb of PC3200. ! I love the straight answers I get from this site. !!!!!You're welcome and thanks for posting back.

Hey guys, I am getting a new computer soon, and I am unsure about my two options....

1. 2GB RAM, 256mb nVidia 6800, Audigy 2Z soundcard

2. 3GB RAM, 256mb ATI Radeon X600SE w/ Hypermemory, with X-Fi soundcard

I've heard that hypermemory is terrible, and that nVidia is the way to go, and I plan on/try to run Battlefield 2 if that helps anything

Thanks!First off, I can tell you that the amount of memory you get (the 2GB and 3 GB) is NOT related in any way to your video card. If you really wanted to buy that much memory (hey, I do) then you COULD still get either card.

BTW, a lot of people say nVidia is worthless just because they prefer ATIs. My advice is to do Google research on what Hypermemory is and see if that's what you want.

My research shows that HyperMemory lets you use your memory to render graphics. I recommend it ONLY if you have at least a gig of RAM. Any less can cause you to run low on or out of memory, especially when the memory is being used enough as is. If you have memory to spare, then buying it will MAKE your games run faster.

http://www.ati.com/companyinfo/press/2004/4783.htmlthanks for that info, anyone else have any suggestions?Quote

thanks for that info, anyone else have any suggestions?

i have a simple problem but it is still doesn't work i did all the troublshooting guide in signals but still not working.....

this is usually a monitor or video card problem but still producing the error "no signal input or cable disconnected" and it autoshutdown.

i already execute the PROPER SOLUTION for this problem but still producing the error....
i test the monitor to other com. and work....
i also test the video card in the working com. and it work...

what can i do?? is there a problem in the motherboard itself or any other components
PLEASE help me.........

OK.. First, please try not to be so short and brief about your issue. From what you said, it sounds like you have a monitor that displays the "No Signal" message and you have tried the monitor on another pc and it works fine... Is that correct? But I don't UNDERSTAND what you mean by Auto-shutdown? Ignoring that, I would say to make sure your monitor is plugged into the motherboard VGA instead of your installed card.. Goto the BIOS and disable onboard video.. then plug it into the card.this is the problem i open the computer and says no signal right...... where is the problem is it is in the video card or in the monitor itself right but i did all the solution in "no signal input troubleshooting" and still not work.......

i did the trial and error procedure
i test the video card in other computer and work "inno3d"

and the other problem is when the computer display the error on the monitor the computer shutdown in about 15 seconds.........

the casing is ATX

is there a problem on motherboard or what?the problem is i cannot enter the bios because of the error.....

where is the problem?this sounds very similar to what is happening to me rite now...except i dont get the connection thing i jus get a moniter that goes into sleep after the xp boot screen im still working on it...i know its a hard drive thing cause i hooked up another hard drive and it worked fine....no one on here seems to know what is up wit it tho....onething i did is the trial and error

i have a working one and the not working one


i remove all the hardware components except the memory, video card and souond card......

and still not working.... but im sure the monitor is working properly and the videocard because i test it in the working computer.....

one thing when the error displayed in the monitor the CPU is cutting out of power...... and i try to unplug again and boot the computer again and still the problem occur.....


is there a problem in the motherboard??? help me do i need to replace it or what???
What type of motherboard do you have? What is the exact model number and make? And what video card did you place in the PC?yea i really dont know...maybe maybe not...im gonna FIND out more later....as soon as i can get the pc to my own residence ill have more room to work on it and find out whats wrong with it....once i find out ill throw up a post and let u knowASUS.... video card is inno3d


i stock this computer in about to years!!!!!!!!


i stock the computer for about two years

and now that error came......

what would be the problem i did all my ideas and techniques but still nothing happen!!!!!!!

I am having some problems with a PC that is switching itself off and am hoping that if I describe some of its symptoms people may

be able to guide me to which component(s) could be faulty and if and how I can revive my machine.

The PC is a Desktop unit running Windows XP PRO SP2. It has two internal hard drives, an internal floppy, internal CD-Re-Writer

and internal DVD-Rom (the last of which no longer recognises ANY type of disc). I also keep a couple of external USB hard drives

connected.

Recently I have been able to get the computer to boot to the XP Desktop screen. All my program icons have been properly

displayed and the Splash screens for my soundcard and Iomega Peerless have popped up as expected. However, after that point the

orange "busy" light would indicate activity, blinking very rapidly, and I could hear a series of "clicks" from within.

I don't know what the computer would be looking for at this stage.

The clicking would cease and the image signal to my monitor be lost whilst the computer's orange "busy" and green "POWER" lights

stayed on. The system fans could also be heard.

After a period of about 20 minutes a squeak would sound as the DVD-Rom and CD-RW were recognised and Windows would

appear to re-boot from scratch (it never reports any power FAILURE) but with a successful outcome following this second attempt

where the PC would stay on for any amount of time with no "blacking out".

Today "second time lucky" has not worked for me. I can still boot to the Desktop and everything seems perfect until the orange

light shows some thwarted activity - as it does so I can hear "little engines winding down" then I lose the signal to the monitor and

the orange and green lights remain on but now only for a short time before all power is lost.

Following this the PC's power-on button does not respond until I unplug and replug at the mains. After which the cycle repeats.

Any insights would be hugely helpful......Try unplugging the usb HDDs.
Try starting in safe mode.
Try turning off Auto Re-boot on System Failure.
Do one thing at a time. testing in between.I tried to start Windows in Safe Mode - by pressing F8 - but I must have got the timing wrong because the full OS loaded and I lost power again in the established pattern.

The image to the monitor vanished and the orange and green power lights remained lit for a short time until they extinguished rendering the Power On button inoperable prior to unplugging and replugging at the mains.

What's different now is that when I re-power it, it isn't showing me any signs of attempting to boot. It's as though it's still locked in the same LOOPING stage. The orange and green lights glow and then go out as the whole machine loses power that can't be re-accessed without unplugging and replugging at the mains.

I should probably point out that the first trouble I had with this machine occurred last April. I have two internal hard drives. I use C for most programs and the OS and D for data and ALL of my e.mailing activity (both the software and the messages). One day last year, I was using my e.mail program when the computer completely blacked out.

On re-booting, Windows reported the error and said that it had to repair some files on Drive D. It did so but following this I had a few weeks where I would get the "second time lucky" booting/power loss scenario. It didn't happen every single time and after I bought a new Surge Protector plug socket the problem went away completely for several months until it started again about three weeks ago.

Is there anything I can do to physically "re-set" the computer so that it can try to start Windows again ?


Try safe mode again, if it won't start in safe mode you better start looking for your OS disk.I thought it wouldn't start because the electricity was turning off.I thought it wouldn't start in safe mode because you got the timing wrong and it booted into normal mode.Yep. I did that and then it switched off (as before) except that now when I try to re-boot it's switching off before anything happens - like it's stuck in a loop in a sequence.... it wants to continue from where it hung rather than go right back to a fresh beginning.

Until today I wasn't getting the issue where after losing power you couldn't press the power button to start it up again UNTIL you had unplugged at the mains.

Perhaps if I unplug it at the mains and leave it for a while - I'll be able to come back and switch it on so that it will at least be able to try to get a run up at Windows before it sighs and dies.I'd try unplugging D drive as a test too.[size=20][/size]

if your computer is turning itself off within a 15 to 30 minutes the problem is the motherboard try find some electronics experts because i cannot HELP you with that

i have also a problem like you i have a computer that cut out a power when an error message occur.....

i did ask an advise and told me to replace my motherboard.......

there are IC's where burn slightly ok!!! cause of statics

HP desktop
P4 XP SP2
Motherboard: socket 478 (sorry thats only what i HEARD from the repair man)

so im getting confuse with this problem
when i came in the office, my pc its running, im sure that i shutdown it properly last night
it will not take LONG, and it will restart itself (properly shutdown, then start)
but later, when the restarting runs, it will not load the welcome screen it will restart again

im in the internet cafe as of now (for to log this)

we try to take out one by one from connection:
we take out first HDD (then we try to start, but still same problem)
then Floppy drive ..........(same problem)
then RAM..........(same problem)
then CD drive..........(same problem)
then we try to use another PSU but still same problem

only the proccessor and mother board is not yet check because we dont have extra (in the shop) same item

any idea which one is the problem? or where is the problem? or what is the problem?
need your kind assistance
thanks........
Can you start in safe mode?safe mode still same problem
there is a time (if there is luck) that it can run for 20mins, 30 or ALMOST 1hour but not exceed
so if i can get to safemode, i must do?
Seeker:

It could be a problem with overheating. Check the case FANS, power supply fan, and any CPU fan to make sure they are all spinning and there is no dust blocking the vents. Check the CPU temp if your motherboard BIOS has this feature. If you added the processor yourself, make sure you used enough heatsink grease and that the heatsink is firmly connected to the processor.

DocQuote

Seeker:

It could be a problem with overheating. Check the case fans, power supply fan, and any CPU fan to make sure they are all spinning and there is no dust blocking the vents. Check the CPU temp if your motherboard BIOS has this feature. If you added the processor yourself, make sure you used enough heatsink grease and that the heatsink is firmly connected to the processor.

Doc

Hey, me again


Just before I buy the CPU and the Heatsink, I mentioned EARLIER; I wanted to varify what the max GHz my mobo can handle. Back a while AGO I had it checked at 2.8 Ghz, but I wanted to make sure this was correct, since they place that I had it done is now being sued by microsoft for pirating ....

Any tools that can tell me?


Thanksnewbieftw..... The EASIEST way to FIND out is to LOOK at your mobo manual..... it will tell you what it will support .

dl65 Care to post a hint for the rest of us who are not psychic and don't want to chase down your other post? Quote

newbieftw..... The easiest way to find out is to look at your mobo manual..... it will tell you what it will support .

dl65

Need some advice or help.

Little info: my PC is 4 years old but still runs quite well and recently i jst got a new 200gb hdd for it but never had time to install it. But at like 2am i had nothing to do tonite so i put it in. after that, my CPU jst...burnt..or somethgn burnt or fried..smoke came out and that kinda stuff when i PRESS the power BUTTON.

I've put in video cards and sound cards and other hdds before into my PC and never had this PROBLEM before ever. So does anyone know waht happened?

I know i'll probably need new parts but what parts? o.O

I also have a 2nd computer where i jst tried putting in my video card into it and nthin came up on screen so i presume that's probably dead.

Another thing is when i press the power button now, i can turn on the PC the fans run and all that but i can't press the power button to turn it off again and/or nothing appears on my monitor.Hmm.. doesn't sound good. OK.. about the smoke and burning... If all you did was put in a new HDD... then I would say to look at the power supply... but maybe you bumped another component while installing the drive... you could have created a bad connection ... who knows... I guess you'll have to strip all the unnecessary parts out and start with just the PSU, MB, Memory and try to POST. Another thing to do prior to any testing is to find out which component burnt up... just go in and sniff around... Really.. you should be able to smell a very distinct electrical smell from the problem device.

About your issue when you turn on the pc and nothing happens and you can't get it to turn off... Just hold in the power button again for 10 seconds.. it should then shut down.

Let us know what you do next.
Thanks.the part that burnt up is the video card i can smell it when i put it near my face.

I'm sorry if this is not the right forum for this :-/

I connected my external hard drive that i used with old computer to my new computer. It says it needs a SOFTWARE for "USB-ATAPI4 Bridge Controller" Where can i get this software if i don't have the cd ANYMORE?What's your OS? I would try the manufacturers WEBSITE for USB drivers.windows xp

i checked buslink.com and couldn't find anything for usb driversdid you see this page? http://www.buslink.com/B1/c_table.shtml or http://www.buslink.com/driver/USBHD/1.4b/win98me.exe

thank you so much

well IM new to this forum and i found it in my search to find out what is wrong wit my pc/moniter. seein as how my pc/moniter is messed up im on my friends pc postin this...now on to my problem. well my pc and moniter boot up fine and then it gets past the xp loading screen and the moniter goes into sleep mode...what could my problem be?Windows is probably switching to a video mode that is not supported by your monitor. Can you get into Safe Mode?no cant really do ne thing but get into my set up from the first boot up screen...after that it jus kinda does its own thing and yea cant really do ne thing...i took my pc from my house where it was runnin fine then i took the pc to my friends house and it started this BS....its been running great till it got here...or no one could ANSWER me...but hey thats cool....Your kidding right? You have the answer. You need to hit F8 at boot, go into VGA mode and re-adjust your resolution back to 800 x 600... then reboot and it should be fine.no it was F5 and i had to rebot in safe mode and then do a system restore...dont know why cause i didnt change ne thing between the day it messed up and the day i RESTORED to but oh well...its all good now.....

Hi found this site by accident but i hope that someone here can answer my probelm for me.

My computer is quite an old model, from Time yes the ones that no longer exist, i had it "UPGRADED" or so the guy said a few months ago all he did was put a 256mb ram n a geforce 5 into it! However all was goin smoothly up until recently when it started to i believe overheat if left alone for too long the monitor would turn off and an alarm inside the machine would go off? any ideas?

Well thts not all of it, tht was just an annoyance, the main problem is that it started that it would only run in safe mode, then the monitor screwed up and had different color blocks on it (Not dead PIXELS just big blocks of different shades) this persisted for about a week then the other day i tried to turn it on and it doesn't load anything. i've checked the monitor n all n thts fine i think it may be the hardware but i dn't have a clue! any help would be much appreciated, especially if its a solution i can perform my self.

Thnks in advance for any replies.

DODODodo... ok ...So you added some ram and a new vid card ....... Shut down the machine ....and take the cover off .....have a look inside and see if theres a lot of dust in there and in particular on the fan thats mounted on the CPU heatsink and at the same time look at the new vid card and see if there is a fan installed on it . If there is a buildup of dust , go out and buy a can of spray air or dust off ...... and clean out all the dust . Once the dust is out , with the cover still off ..... start up the machine and see if the fan on the PCU is running as well as the fan on the vid card , if it has one . Is there another fan mounted on the inside of the case , other than the one in the PSU ?
Do you have any sort of temperature monitoring software installed ? If not I would try pc WIZARD 2006 ..... http://www.pcworld.com/downloads/file_description/0,fid,25444,00.asp
It will let you see what the temperatures are in your machine ......... it will give you lots of other info about your machine as well .
Let us know what the temperatures are .

dl65

Quote

the monitor would turn off and an alarm inside the machine would go off?

then the other day i tried to turn it on and it doesn't load anything

• Dust (Cleaned)

I would like to GET an ACER SXGA 19" A179-1915 LCD monitor to replace my present ViewSonic CRT. However, I have been told that the connection on the ACER may not be compatible with my video card. Something about VGA vs DVI, which I do not understand. The ad for the ACER does not mention anything about connection compatibility. After much scrounging around I located the User Guide for my video card and it is a Chaintech G-Force FX 5200 VGA card. Can anyone out there tell me if I can use the ACER LCD with the video card I have? I called the company I wanted to order it from to ask them and the salesperson couldn't tell me. My computer was custom built by our local boy-computer-wiz so there is no manufacturer I can call to ask. ThanksI haven't been able to find that model of monitor in Acer's current or back catalogue. Where are you GETTING it from?Thanks for the quick reply! [emailprotected]No wonder I couldn't find it. "A179-1915" is TigerDirect's stock code, not Acer's model code! That said, the model code that TigerDirect quotes is not to be found on Acer's site either. Possibly a region-specific code.

Anyway, all is not lost. The >detailed specs< page at TigerDirect indicates that this monitor takes VGA input (no mention of DVI), so you'll be fine with it.Well, you have made my day! Thank you so much for dogging it out. I had SPENT hours with the Search Engine trying to figure it out on my own but I guess I just don't know enough of computer jargon to put 2 + 2 together. So very happy to have found this site and folks like you who are willing to help.You're welcome!

And just a note to anyone who take that last post too literally, typos and all, no, no dogging was involved in the creation of this thread...

woofIf there is another meaning to the word "dogging" I am unaware of it. In the CONTEXT of my e-mail I was using it as Webster intended (or his successor in the lexicography dept.)

Adjective: Dogging 1. Relentless and indefatigable in pursuit or as if in pursuit.
Verb: 1. Go after with the intent to catch

If there is a double meaning to this word I am blissfully ignorant and if anyone took it the wrong way, my apologies. In any event, I am very grateful to Robpomeroy for his help.Ah! This side of the pond, the most common meaning is... er... well... >a little less socially acceptable<. :blush:

(Sorry, I honestly thought you had meant a different word to dogging, but at this stage, I can't remember what!!!)On my keyboard the 'i' is right beside the 'o'. That's the one!!!

sorry to ask this question but i looked up my motherboard on google and found one that matches the number on my board VT82C598AT but my board has 3 slots for ram 2 pci slots and 2 iso (ithink i can't remeber what they are called) and one slot that i don't even have a clue what is if any one can help me it would be most apricitave thanksDownload and run Belarc Advisor (free at www.belarc.com) and you will see the exact make and model of your motherboard.Mrjcwhite...... Well if it has 2 PCI and 2 ISA ....the other one is probably a AGP slot ........ The ISA slots are the longest and (black)I think and probably at the bottom ...... then just above that are the 2 PCI slots ( creme colour ) then above the PCI and OFFSET a bit is the one in question probably a AGP ( brown colour) That is were you would install a AGP video card if you had one .

Hope this helps you . But be sure and do as GX1_Man suggested and you will be sure .

dl65 thanks for the helpand it is not a agp slotMaybe it is just an IDE connector. Where is it located on the board and what is its approximate size?And the color? Can you upload a picture? Or post the board info?this is what it isSome old Dells have a similar item for additional memory for the onboard AGP adapter. I can't see if that is a VERTICAL or a horizontal opening for installing something. Please elaborate or post another picture with that detail. I don't see an AGP slot so I believe that's what it is.hmmm, James, is this out of your compaq tower, because I think have one of those on mine as well, but I don't KNOW what it is, though it looks like it coult be a memory EXPANSION slot. I'll see what I can find on google.Score, at least I think so anyway, I think it's a LVDS module, to the best of my KNOWLEDGE, it's a fast, like Gbps, expansion slot thingy.

Let me know if I got it.


Hope this helpsok, i got a picture of a card here http://www.tcommate.com.tw/Computex/MA-LVDS.jpg does that look like it would work in the slot?thanks toe and it is a compaq i will not own a dellnp james

hey guys
my 80 gb seagate barracuda hdd was LYING idle since last 15 days.yesterday wen i connected it as slave on my system an error message came up"primary slave hdd error" and it wasnt detected in bios.
no use tryin to use as master as the same msg came up?
wots d problem?
cud it hav crashed
there wasnt ny bad sector ever in it?shud i try to detect it on some othr system?will diagnostic tools run evn if it isnt detected by bios ND os?So you set it up as CS on the primary channel and it wasn't detected in the BIOS? Did you check the cables and power? Hmm.. If it's not in the bios.. then it's the drives board that's not talking... I'd suggest trying it again and if nothing.. it's always good for a fridge MAGNET. Just outa curiosity, where were you storing the DRIVE? DOUBLE POST

Please see reply to the other thread. It is a lot less confusing.dude
was storin it in a carton well tucked away in my cuppa at my hostel.dunno wat went wrong.just used it occcasionally.but the data was priceless.
nd dude DNT get ya wen u say "its gud 4 a fridge magnet"
does it mean its useless
tried on other system too but of no availWell... If you're sure that you have the jumper set correctly, and the IDE cable secured at both ends... yet it still doesn't read in the BIOS... Well.. That's the limit of my knowledge... unless I'm forgetting something (which happens often) it's good as a fridge magnet... ie. the two magnets inside the drive when you dissassemble it... They're very strong.. good to hold up most anything on your fridge.

Good luck in getting your data back.

I`ve followed your instructions and a message SU995035 appears,,,,,,,,,Aninvalid command option was specified. Check the command line and try again, ortype Setup /? for HELP on the setup command options (0x13ab) I`m SAVING the BIOS settings, I haven`t used the CD as the floppy worked.
Have I to GO to the Tip..........
Regards ,
Martyn.......BristolWhen the floppy boots do you EVENTUALLY arrive at an A:/&GT; prompt?

I have recently installed a P4 motherboard (1.7ghz) and when my PC is switched on, the HDD fails to power up. The HDD comes from a AMD based PC, so I know that it won't boot, but I can't understand why it doesn't power up ... I have tried a different HDD from a Pentium based PC and the same PROBLEM occurs ... can anyone help ?? ThanksCan anyone help with this ??Ok... So you installed a Hard DRIVE into a new system, and it's the only hard drive in the system? And you set it up as the Primary or CS? And it's connected to a a power plug which you assured is firmly seated... What exactly does it do? Can you see it in the BIOS? Tell us what you've done to troubleshoot.

Thanks.
It is the only hard drive ... there are two optical drives (that have now been detatched ... the same problem persists) I have checked all supply and IDE ribbon connections and the are all secure ... I have tried a different HDD ... same problem. It doesn't show in the BIOS. It is simply not POWERING up !!!do your other drives work? it might have shorted out or somethingBoth optical drives do work in a different PCWhat kind of hard drive is it? SATA? EIDE? UDMA?And if IDE, is a 40 or 80 conductor cable in USE? Are the IDE controllers enabled in the BIOS?

see earlier 2day i opened my computer to transfer some files in the hard drive. now ever since my computer makes wierd noises. its not like a window beep but its like a wierd. i DONT know what to do and im like scared cuz im thinking the computer is gonna blow up! lol so can u guys help me and tell me wat to do?Well, unless the computer's a bomb, which is unlikely lol Then I would say that SOMETHING went WRONG. What did you transfer? Which operating system is it on? Have you MADE any changes to the system recently? What KIND of beep is it? A BIOS beep? How many? Long or short (believe it or not, that might actually help )...

FlameOpen it up and see where the sound is coming from - one of the components or the system speaker.

A NUCLEAR complex? Are you serious?(Psst... ignore him Dilbert. )

Scoobs, many many PC POWER supplies have a built in switch so they can accept either 110V or 240V. Many laptop power supplies autodetect the voltage and ADJUST accordingly.

All you may need to do is change a PLUG and flip a switch.Thank you so much EVERYONE for all your VERY helpful replies....I really do appreciate it and keep up the GOOD chats....

ok i just bought a 200gb hD and i was wondering is it gonna be plug and play or am i gonna have to reload windows on it? i wanna swap all the stuff from my old 80gb hD then take it out so wat all do i need to do?You're going to have to do just a LITTLE research for yourself before you undertake this:

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=How+to+add+hard+drive I swear, if helping people doesn't make my DAY.. it's questions like this.

I appreciate the good laugh first thing in the morning.

Google is a good place to start, but if you wanna do what you ask.. I would do a search on "Installing a New Hard drive" first... then slave the 80GB and copy over your personal files. And YES you will have to reinstall windows if you plan to remove the 80GB. Of course you'd be a lot better off just leaving the 80 GB in as the OS disc and using your 200GB for extra space.well my 80gb hD i was plannin on puttin in my xbox for extra "game memory" but yeao yea can i use my same windows xp cd on the new harddrive??Yes. If you only replace the one piece of hardware, XP should have no issues registering with the same computer. So if you're going to do this.. just remove the 80GB, put in the 200GB and boot the xp cd. Follow the prompts and when you're done installing windows, slave the 80GB and pull off your personal files... Of course you'll lose all your programs that you've installed since. Good Luck.Why not simply clone the existing 80 to the 200? Most drive vendors suply software which will do this.
It also saves a *censored* of a ot of reinstalling.True.. there is that. I hope they've improved the cloning software.... It used to be that when you cloned to a LARGER drive ... you lost any extra space. I suppose they've fixed that. :-/I've used just about every piece of cloning software there is and I have never had that problem.ok i installed the new 200gb hD and i ended up havin to call up MS cuz i found out that the xp cd i have was just an *upgrade cd so i had to search hi and low for the original one ....so anyways yea install went well except for when i tried getting ONLINE with it it wasnt showing any type of network connection and when i checked my device manager it has the lil pic of the exclamation point next to the network adapters and i dont know how to fix that unless do i gotta reinstall xp?Ah.. no that's just your network drivers... If you're using a built-in network card.. as in the ethernet port is on the mb itself.. just goto the manf. website for your board and download the network drivers. You'll have to find another means of getting to the internet. -- that is unless you still have the disk which came with your motherboard.Quote

....that is unless you still have the disk which came with your motherboard.

Hi.

I have a total of eight USB ports. Two are located at the chassi, another two are located on an USB 2.0 Extension card and four are on my motherboard.

The chassi and USB 2.0 ports have stopped working for some reason. The things I connect to those ports simply doesn't react at all. I tried to reinstall my USB drivers but it didn't work.
I have no idea what can have caused this issue, please help.

Computer specs;
____________________________
Win XP pro SP2-
AMD Athlon 64 Processor 3000+-
1,00 GB RAM-
GeForce 6600 GT-
MSI K8T Neo2 motherboard-
____________________________


Thanks!TEMPORARILY remove the addin card and it's drivers etc. Reboot, open Device Manager and delete all onboard USB ports. Reboot and Windows should now reinstall these ports.
Remove all USB DEVICES before attempting this!

How many USB devices are connected and what are they?Whoa, that actually fixed it! Thanks alot pal!Quote

Whoa, that actually fixed it! Thanks alot pal!

I have a radeon 9800 256mb agp card which I am attempting to run on my p4 msi motherboard I have windows xp home, the problem I have is I installed the drivers for it and when I restart the COMPUTER It does not work. I made sure all the connections are right my computer recognizes that the CARE is there in device manager but has a question mark on it. when I switch the crt connector to the new cards nothing but a blank screen. everything is brand new so I don't think it is mechanical.Do you also have onboard video? If so, you probably need to access your BIOS settings and disable onboard video. You should also have uninstalled any drivers for the original card before powering down to FIT the new one.Ok I first installed the drivers for the new card, then I went into the display settings to disable the drivers for the onboard video after that I restarted with the new card plugged in and nothing happened. then I plugged it back into the onboard again, and I saw a picture until windows started to load then the screen tured black. ok? what happened now? then I TRIED to load into safe mode but that didn't work, then I tried to load it in the option that loads the computer from the last known good configuration known, and that did not work either and now I am stuck. I don't see any options in the BIOS for DISABLING the onboard video, the only thing I saw was an option to switch video to PCI or AGP it is and MSI pm8m-v chipset is VIA P4M800

Thanks for your help guys,

Backdated-I don't really UNDERSTAND what you sent me meant? I'm not too good with all that lingoIf you used EFS to ENCRYPT your files, part of that link explains how to recover them by attaching the hard drive to another system. It is difficult to follow, but I suppose, necessarily so.
If you KNOW where to look, there are certain cracking tools AVAILABLE that will do the job in seconds.

Hello all. Remember me? I'm here with a question today, and I'm just trying to gauge what the experience of others has been.

Is there any difference in the sound quality from a pair of head phones using a USB connection, as opposed to a set connected directly to the sound card through the old style mini-JACKS? Bought an expensive set of USB headphones today (Logitech), and I like everything about them EXCEPT the sound quality.

Is it just me?


Hopester...Hello there. I have no experience on USB phones (can't see how that could be an improvement) but just wanted to welcome you back! Welcome back Hopester .........

I have had no experience with USB headphones ....... I have several of the type which plug into the MIC and spkr jacks ......... Headset/boom mic mike $19.99 and work awesome . What seem to be WRONG with the sound output of yours ?

dl65 Hi GX ! Hey DL !

DL, it's just poor sound quality - a little muffled, not crisp and clear like my cheapo $20 set. Kind of like I have a facecloth between the earphone and my ear. I've experienced this with other headsets as well. In fact, it's been my experience that the cheap headsets often seem to have the best sound quality. I just get tired of replacing them every six months, so I decided to try this more expensive set.

BTW, I checked my ears. No facecloths.Hi YA Doofus! Hi Fed! Neat smilie.

i just wanna know is it possible to keep a hard drive from running if the screws are too TIGHT?If you make anything too tight, it may not be helpful. Just put it in so it's secure and won't fall out. UNLESS your computer takes a GOOD beating, I don't think it's going ANYWHERE

Flameall right, thanks.Public Service Announcement: I will be chatting with the viewer via AIM about this issue. Please continue to post suggestions!

Flame

I'm new to this forum--so not sure if I'm posting correctly or not :-/--Cause I don't know if my problem is hardware or software based! I have a 19" CRT monitor--Viewsonic. My PC has a GEForce 5200 card with 128MB Ram running W2K. When I change the screen resolution to 1024x768 and then open any screen--whether it's a browser, spreadsheet or a folder---the screen is eaten up with whatever I have opened--it takes up the whole screen to where I can't see any of the information on the top bar (File, Edit, etc) or the minimize, resize or X to close the screen. I can put the mouse way up out of sight and double click, then it will usually bring the screen down to a smaller size where I can resize it, but once I close and reopen, here we go again-folder opens off the screen. Pressing F11 MAKES it worse. I know this is a simple setting 'somewhere', but I sure can't find it........
I can use the 600x800 or whatever it is, but I'd PREFER the 1024x768 setting. I also have a 19" LCD monitor that is set to 1024X768 on a PC running XP Pro that does not have this problem.
I did a search here and on other forums for CRT Screen Size and tried other phrases, but all I get is information on how to change the resolution. I know how to do that-----
/meactually.. it sounds like your monitor itself. can you adjust the screen size using buttons on the front of the monitor? usually a menu or something.I'll try that tonight---I never thought of the monitor buttons themselves. But anyway--don't those just MOVE the whole screen left, right, up down, etc? If I do that (say--move screen down) so that the top is within 'clicking' range, then the bottom of the screen will disappear.
Thanks for the suggestion and I'll post back later tonight the results.
yep.. up, down, left, right, Wider, narrower, and short or tall... and usually many other little features..If you're not sure about your monitor controls, use Google to search for a manual for it.
Thank you IT-Guy--your suggestion worked. It took some finagling---setting one or 2, then going back and changing one I'd ALREADY set until I went through them all and got it just the way I want.
Backdated, I fortunately knew about the buttons on the monitor---I had just set them years ago when I installed the monitor and have never messed with them again. They didn't even come to mind when I started trying to figure out what to do.
Brandy

Hi Folks,
I have a Compaq 2100 laptop that took a short 2' fall off the arm of a chair. After which the PCMCIA slot quit working. I need this because it is my only source for wireless and usb2. professional REPAIR costs are too high not to just replace the computer. I tried getting the case open to check connections and solder on slot but couldnt get deep enough into the machine without breaking something. Can you offer help? Please.What!? You do have two USB ports on back, right? That's what I see here: HP Compaq Presario 2100 seriesYup, two USBS in back but not usb2. I need usb2 to run dvd burner worth a darn. and I'm still wireless-less.What is the OPTICAL drive in that laptop? According to the source I previously cited, some of the Compaq Presario 2100 series came with DVD-RW drive.

I have a Compaq Presario 700 laptop. A USB wireless adpater works fine in the back USB ports; don't really need USB 2.0 for that.2100 came with just, cd-rw with dvd read only. the solution for me would be somehow getting the pcmcia slot working so I dont have to buy more cards for the computer. system is not worth sinking more money into. the dvd burner that I have is external and works optimally with usb2, if I use regular usb I have cache problems not enough memory. once again I dont want to pay to buy memory for this system. are there any fixes for the slot? tests? I am not getting any help from the device manager as to why these devices are not being seen. Thanks.Well, SINCE you've determined that the cost of repair is unacceptably high, it seems to me you're probably going to have to accept some limitations in using the laptop. Maybe someone else can suggest some possible fixes; I can not.

At least, you have CD-RW. Do you absolutely need DVD-RW? And, again, you could get a USB wireless adapter; the one I have, which came with my router, is this: D-Link DWL-G122 IEEE 802.11b/g USB 2.0 Wireless AdapterSoybean, thanks for taking a look at it. i will keep an eye on this post to see if someone has something else to say about it.

" Remember, we're all in this together. I'm routing for ya." -Red GreenAn afterthought: an alternative backup solution: an external USB drive (using an external enclosure and a standard IDE internal hard drive. I have this: MASSCOOL FU310 External Enclosure. Works with either USB 2.0 or 1.1.

I guess your DVD burner does work with USB 1.1, since you said it "optimally" works with USB 2.

Well, since i fried my other video card. i have a temporary 32mb video card in. ATI RAGE 128 PRO ULTRA
and im trying to play enemy territory on it, but it lags up whenever im around enemies or open places. but when im in enclosed buildings or caves, etc. it runs perfect. any way to reduce this lag of my video card?How much RAM do you have?

FlameWhat are the requirements of the game? What are the SPECIFICATIONS of your computer? Therein lies the answer.

Just out of curiosity, how did you "fry" your card? Could other damage have been done?Quote

How much RAM do you have?

Flame

What are the requirements of the game? What are the specifications of your computer? Therein lies the answer.

Just out of curiosity, how did you "fry" your card? Could other damage have been done?

Hi guys first time poster here,
anyways i built a uber comp for a friend and everything seems to be runnin well except for one thing, (as this kind of problem was posted a few pages back i didn't really understand what the people replyin were recommending so maybe you can help me out with this) everytime i cold boot the comp it doesn't boot i believe, the monitor says it has no connection and just goes on standby. the mobo lights up tho, fans, everything is alive, it just doesn't wanna boot. now i hold down the power button and switches off right, now when i press it again right after it boots, the monitor gets on, everything boots perfectly, windows xp and everything. now i'll state what system i built and see what COULD be wrong with it. i upgraded most of the drivers except for the bios driver for the mobo cuz i hate messin with that STUFF, anyways here it is:

Intel Pentium 4 3.2ghz
MSI P5 mobo (i forgot the model but it can fit pci and has a agp slot)
2gig DDR (2 sticks)
200 gig maxtor hd
dvd writer
and all the additional tidbits

i've connected and reconnected everything and it still goes through the same procedure, the cold boot doesn't do it but the second time works. i just dunno what it could be. a little help from you people would be well appreciated.
thanks
nooblesWhat type of monitor is it? If it's an LCD, are you giving it time to get to windows prior to hitting the power switch? Sometimes, an LCD will not PICK up the signal until windows loads... That's just some LCD's.Its an LG 19" LCD, but if i had the power on standby on the second push of the button and it loads perfectly then why would it not happen with the first? also i noticed with the casing leds that on the second push when it loads windows it lights up, on the first push tho i wait a while and yet no lights go on.

nooblesSo when it doesn't work.. there's no lights or activity when you first turn on the LCD? (without booting)

And you've checked all the connections?ok so this is what happens when i push it the first time,
i push it, mobo starts up, fans whirlin, sounds of stuff goin on. the LCD is on btw so the lights green, then it says no connection and the power turns orange for standby on the monitor. meanwhile on the comp casin the leds aren't on, everythin else is alive but i don't think its bootin to windows and stuff, i really wouldn't know cuz i don't see what's goin on the LCD. so i'm sittin there with a case that's turned on but the monitor just wont detect it any signal. and this LCD is brand new, as in just got it today, we swapped it from a Proview 19" LCD (which sucks btw, didn't even come with a CD of drivers). so yea that's it.and yea i've checked all the connections, the gcard is a nvidia 6600 256 meg which has a power input in the card itself so i plugged in a power cable to it. (it IS for a power cable right?). and i made sure its in placehe he he.. Yes.. I have the same card.

Does it consistently boot the second go round without problem? Have you tested this mulitiple times?it ALWAYS boots the second time without problems, i've tried and tried it many times and its always from a cold boot where it doesn't work. even if i shut down windows and repower the comp after a few minutes it always boots. but if its like 5 to 10 to whatever minutes it'll start all over and i have to push the power till it turns off and push it again and it'll work. always on teh second time.sounds more like something on the mb. I'll google it.. I SUGGEST you do the same.oh and the system i'm using is very similar, i've got a intel pentium 4 3.0ghz, 1gig DDRAM, ati radeon 5660se 128mb, and a p5 mobo with pci and agp slots, AND im using a 17" LG LCD as well. only difference from the one i built for my friend is that the mobo maker is different, hers is msi and mines asus (and she's got 1gig DDRam extra, .2ghz faster, and 128mb more on the vidcard..... *censored*! lol).

Thanks...How can I TEST a power supply ¨DELL¨ model HP- 145SNF ...?...I apreciate your helpTo test a standard ATX PSU "offline" as it were for go/nogo, connect the green (Pin 15) and any black wire using a wire LINK. If it starts up, then it's generally good.
Further testing requires at least a basic KNOWLEDGE of electronics and the required tools.Thanks...backdated but .....this power supply it¨s diferent, it has´nt green pin just has two conectors to board...one fo them has 20 pins and the other one only 6 pins ( 3 black - 3 blue )......if you know some thing about this ... PLEASE let me know.......from COLOMBIA GOD BLESS YOU

I have a hard disk maxtor 20 giga . and it have formated when I try setup WINDOWS an error message tell me there no hard drive although I can see the hard in BIOSplease use correct grammar and english. what i pulled out of that was, u have a 20gb hd and when u try to format it, windows tells u that there is no hd. is this what u meant to say?Quote

please use correct grammar and english. what i pulled out of that was, u have a 20gb hd and when u try to format it, windows tells u that there is no hd. is this what u meant to say?

I've just installed a new HD on my computer and I was wondering how to share files between the two. Say I've installed a game on on the slave. Is there anyway I can run the game on the slave off the master??You QUESTION does not make sense. If you installed the software after you installed the second/new hard drive and you installed the software by following the normal installation procedure except that you changed the path for the location of the installed program files, then Windows knows where the program files are located and you can simply start the program in the normal way (Programs menu, desktop shortcut, etc.).

Since you question does not make sense, I'm wondering whether I've mis-understood you? Installing a program on your second hard drive is not what I would call "share files between the two". But, you can certainly copy files from one hard drive to the other via My Computer or a Windows Explorer window.Well, I installed CS Source to my slave because there wasn't enough room on my current HD. The thing is it wouldn't let me change the install path so I had disconnect my master HD and run the computer with just my slave. Then reconnected the master and started my computer back up. The only thing is, it wont let me run CS Source with the master HD but if I disconnect it, and just run the computer with the slave it'll run Source.Well, obviously, you have an OS on both drives. You must have an OS on the new HD or ELSE you could not simply discconnect your master/original drive and boot from the new drive. And, by the way, you did say this but you must also be changing your second drive from slave to master when you do this. Right?

What OS do you have installed on both drives? Have you thought about setting up a dual-boot configuration? That would allow you to choose which drive to boot from during startup and eliminate the need to physically disconnect a drive and change master/slave settings. Or, since you have an OS installed on the new drive, why not just make it your master drive and the OLD drive the slave?

As far as your original question about running CS, I'm under the impression some games can be run by merely clicking on the .exe file. In other words, they do not have to be "installed" under a conventional install procedure that creates entries in Windows Registry. Is that right?

I'm not a gamer, but I have a friend who once ran a game on my computer in this manner, if I recall correctly. I surmise this is the premise behind your question. Is that right? I'm not familiar enough about CS to give you an answer.
Wow... I could be sooo cruel with this...

OK... You apparently have two hard drives loaded with a version of windows on each, you installed your game on the second drive because you needed the space, but now you want to run the game from the OS of the other drive... Am I correct? If so, then the answer is no. You can only boot to one disc or the other as the OS. And since the game is not installed on the primary drive, it will not play from there. I'm suprised that there was no option to change the install location... So why can't you just make your second disc (with the OS installed) the primary and then slave the other one?

Oops.. you got it in before me... Wow thats alot of help from both of you. And thanks for not being cruel. The best way to learn about something you don't know is to ask right?? I'll set up that dual boot config. and yes, I was having to disconnect the ide CABLE changing the slave to master. But enough of that. Both of you answered my QUESTIONS with more than enough info. Thanks

i dont know if this technically COUNTS as hardware but if anyone knows where i can get a cheap router or if any one is selling one and lives within 30mins-1hour of toronto canada with all software accessories ect. then can u submit a reply...it doesnot mater if it is wireless or not but if i had a choice it would be wireless.

thanksHere's a good deal on a D-Link DI-604 10/100 Mbps 4-Port Router. I used a DI-604 for about 3 1/2 years and then replaced it with a D-Link DI-524 wireless router. I got good service from the DI-604.uncontroled_teen check out tiger direct ....... they are in MARKHAM Ontario ....very close to you .......
They have the D-Link..... DL 604 prced at $36.99
http://www.tigerdirect.ca/indexca.asp?SRCCODE=TIGERUS&CMP=IL22454
Heres a link to the D link router.....http://www.tigerdirect.ca/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=328846&CatId=584

TigerDirect.ca
8401 Woodbine Ave.
Markham, Ontario L3R2P4, Canada

If you have never been to it ...... GO ...... it's like a candy store for computer stuff.

FYI , I am also using a D-Link router ...... DL 604 and have never had any issues with it ......

dl65

thankyou so much i went today and now im saving up for some other "junk(treasure)" i sawuncontroled_teen...... Is that the FIRST time you've been there ? Did you pick up one of their catalogues ?
did you get your router ?

dl65 yes yes and yes

THANK youuncontroled_teen...... right on ... I live out west and while we have many computer shops ..... theres nothing EVEN close to that here .
dl65 uncontroled_teen...... Did you go wired or wireless ? and is it up and running ?

dl65 i never even knew about that all i knew about is like future shop and bestbuy thank you for telling me about my new home. i did go wire and the reason i wanted wireless was because i have a PSP and it has internet but the largest signal is 25 % its slow but atleast i will have internet on my other pc
LOL ...... Future shop and Best Buy are crap compared to Tiger Direct

I use them a lot ....... their shipping is fast as well .

dl65 and its not like any crap stores like 5 different routers this one had like 100 routers...u live in us or canada?

I keep loading this certain game and I get the memory error 0x00441f2c at 0x0000000c. I have reinstalled the program multiple times. I have two 512 sticks of ram. I tried each stick of ram in each slot individually. Every time I got the same ram error. Any idea how to fix this? Is it just a glitch in Windows?Try testing your ram. http://www.memtest.org/
Ckeck the game website for fixes & patches.I've run memory tests before but I ran the newest version on the site you gave me. The test is looped soI let it run and it told me that I passed. So the memory doesn't seem to be bad. Plus by removing the sticks and testing each one individually in each slot while still getting the EXACT same memory error, it should mean my memory is FINE. Thanks for the reply THOUGH! Anybody else know? Scottyou might have a failing power supply. i started getting memory errors too. i didn't know it was the power suppply causing it until i replaced video card, memory chip(one chip went bad probably from a surge) mb & cpu. the power supply up & died on the first boot after installing mb & cpu.Well did you get the same memory error just for that one program? It's weird, I can reinstall and play it maybe once or twice, but then I get the error and I won't stop getting them until I reinstall again. Any other ideas?
FIXED! I was getting the error message because I had windows error REPORTS disabled. To get the program to run without error reports, I had to go into C:\WINDOWS\system32\drivers\etc\hosts and manually enter where the program is supposed to CONNECT.

Hi there, I'm having a really odd problem and hope someone will be able to help me.

I know a bit about computers, I built my computer and it ran fine for months, up until recently, when out of nowhere things started going awry.

Basically, sometimes, not every time, I boot up my computer I will switch it on and it doesn't boot. The CPU fan spins, the motherboard lights go on, the psu fan spins but the motherboard doesn't post and nothing displays on screen. It just sits there apparently doing nothing, I have to reset it.

The odd thing is that it sometimes happens, and sometimes the comp boots up just fine, goes into windows with no worries. It never crashes or has anything go wrong once its started, sometimes it just doesn't boot.

In between the times it works and it doesn't, I haven't put in or REMOVED anything or changed anything full stop.

A friend of mine suggested that it might be the power at the place I am living at, but this actually started happening whilst I was living at a completely seperate address. He also suggested that a UPS might help me.

I'm very careful in terms of viruses etc so I doubt it could be anything like that. Plus I've virus scanned plenty of times.

Anyway, please get back to me and help!!! I need a reliable computer and don't want to replace or buy more parts unless I have to.

THANK you!

Jared

Computer specs:
CPU: Athlon XP 3200+
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-7NNXP
Ram: 2 x 512 Dual Channel DDR
Graphics: Ati RADEON 9800 Pro
HDD: 2 x SATA 200gb raid striped
PSU: AcBel 400W
Optical: DVD-RW, 3.5 inch floppy
Sound card: Creative Soundblaster Live! 5.1
Oh, and I'm running Windows XP pro, if it matters.

Thank you!Quote

It just sits there apparently doing nothing, I have to reset it.

I have an HP Desktop about 2yrs old w/Win XP. All of a sudden the response to the screen is about 5 seconds or so. When I boot and attempt to enter the password the characters take about 5-10 secs each to APPEAR on the screen. If I hold down the shift key for 10 secs then everything works well until I reboot again. How do I fix this?

Thank you.Walk2,

This might work:

Click Start > Control Panel > Switch to Classic View > Accessibility Options.

In Accessibility Options, click the Keyboard tab, click the Settings buttons one at a time, CLEAR the check box next to Use Shortcut, and click OK.

Best regards,
DocThanks for the reply, Doc. It didn't work, but thnk you anyway.

LarryYou say that when you hold down the shift key, it works... is this at boot? If so.. the trick in WINNT to disable programs at startup was to hold down the shift key... so maybe you have SOMETHING loading in the background... Check your startup files... MSCONFIG.Good eye IT-Guy!

8-)

This is a typical symptom of certain infections. Carry out the procedures listed [highlight]in this post[/highlight] and post a Hijackthis logfile here when done.
If possible, zip the logfile and ATTACH it rather than post it.

Hi there,

For about a week now, my sound has been acting weird: it has MISSING in alot fo AREAS. For example, when I try to listen to music in winamp, no sound, I have to do it in WMP. Also, when I boot my computer, the usual 'music' isn,t there anymore. In ALL the games that I play, the sound is missing in about 80% of the areas. (I played those games for a long time and know what these sounds where and when they occured, they just don't anymore. That also apply to music in different games.) I tried with my sister's speakers and with headphones but it is the same result. I wondered if you guys had any idea what would be causing this problem.

Thx,

Nick!
Nickers:

The drivers for your computer's sound card or controller might be corrupted, or there might be some kind of resource conflict between the sound or controller and another expansion card.

Did you install any new hardware or software just before the problem BEGAN?

Have you checked Device Manager to see if Windows reports any problems with drivers, or error code numbers, or resource conflicts?

Have you tried the to open DXDiag and run the sound tests?

Do you need help trying any of these suggestions? 8-)

Let us know,
Doc

Thx for the quick response Doc

I did try device manager and it says all devices run as it should. I see no icon indicating a conflict. So I guess that's not it.

I did not install hardware recently. As for the software, I constanstly add and reemove things so I couldn't say (In part because I have such a bad memory )

As for DXDIAG, I just tried running the sound test. When they ask if I heard anything, No. I guess a sound is supposed to be playing but I don't hear anything.

thx,

Nick!bump.

PLease get rid of that spammer anyone... Uninstall any associated software for the card. Open device manager and uninstall the card and all associated devices. Reboot and Windows will find and REINSTALL it (You may need to reinstall any extra software that came with it).
Now test your AFFECTED programs.

If that doesn't work, you'll need to enter the preferences section of each affected program and see what sound device it's trying to use. If the device selection is correct, then are any erroneous paramaters selected?

So the SMALL drive is IDE and the one you want to install to is SATA?Yes it is. Couldn't do it the easy way, huh? depends. what is the easy way?Two IDE drives. alas no. it says in the mobo manual that it detects sata as ide but i still think there is a difference and it is all BAD and why doesn't it work and AAAAARRRRRGGGGGHGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!
i do not NEED this IDE drive!I do not in fact want win98 a0t all. i just want it to install *censored* linux!
sorry for harsh language, am frustrated.

hello i have a sage usb memory stick and ive had no problem with it before but now its saying the disk is write protected. there is no switches on the memory stick or anything. i cant change anything or format it. i would appreaciate it if SOMEONE came up with a solutionHow was it formatted?i dont KNOW it wasnt formatted its just write protected and i cannot TAKE off the protectionGive us the EXACT details of the stick.Go to My Compurter, pick the DEVICE, right click, and choose Properties.....