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MY 2.0 USB DEVICE ISN'T DETECTING, THE OS IS 98 ON A AIMB-742 MOTHERBOARD. I'VE LOADED ALL THE DRIVERS FOR THE MOTHERBOARD AND 2.0 USB DEVICE. IT DETECTS MY 1.0 USB DEVICE BUT NOT MY 2.0. ANY HELP OR SUGGESTION WOULD BE VERY APPRECIATED.As far as I'm aware, Win 98 doesn't have native support for USB 2, although 98 SE may have. However, USB 2 is backwards-compatible with USB 1 so your devices should work although much slower.

You might find some info here if you get stuck;
Link EditThanks for the info. Its a 98SE. I've use this motherboard before without any ISSUES. Could the MB have bad usb pins? I will check the linked attached.Quote from: Gil on February 08, 2008, 12:41:09 PM

Thanks for the info. Its a 98SE. I've use this motherboard before without any issues. Could the MB have bad usb pins? I will check the linked attached.

i have a DL-604 WIRED router. and Telus Highspeeed ADSL

my problem is, when i play Battlefield2, i get randomly DISCONNECTED from the game. the old "there is a problem with your connection" sign is displayed, followed by "connection to the server has been lost".

i found that when i used my wireless phone, (while playing BF2) i get the "problem with connection..." sign followed by "...server has been lost." i thought my wireless phone was CONFLICTING with the wireless router. now i have a WIRED router, and its still happening!!

to be specific, i get the "problem" sign a second after i turn my wireless phone on. after IM done talking, i turn off the phone and the "problem" sign pops up again.

So SUMMED up, random times i lose connection. when turn on phone i lose connection. when i hang up the phone i lose connection.

Does anybody know WHATS causing this? could it be my ISP?Try changing the reception channel for the phone.

FlameIt should not do this
It might have been your computer aswell

I have a dead laptop (Toshiba Satellite). I would like to GET the information off of the hard disk of the laptop (The hardisk is still okay). Does anyone know where I can get information on how to go about this? Like a website that would give me some step by step instructions or at least the right direction to start in.Here's a lot of reading for you. Lest US know how it goes.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=how+to+slave+laptop+hard+drive

<-----------I had to do the same thing with my laptop, what i did was buy an I- Rocks IR-9200 2.5 " HDD ENCLOSURE. It makes your notebook hard drive into an external hard drive. and after you get your info off it, you can format it and use it as an external hard drive.



I Purchased Mine here > http://www.dealsonic.com/iblir25inusb.html < and it works great!take the hard drive and put it in an external case, simple solution, AND yuu get a external hard drive out of it.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817610001

about 14 or 15 bucks, good deal, and who can PASS up a external hard drive?

Could someone please explain the difference between a PHYSICAL and a logical access when talking about CPUs and peripherals???Welcome to the CH forums.

Homework? Goto homework.com.

Physical access is when something can be ACCESSED physically i.e. you can pick up your pc and throw it out of the window, or rip the processor from the motherboard and fit a new one, or disconnect an external DRIVE, etc... etc...

Logical access is when you use SOFTWARE to access information in the processor or external drive. By opening a FILE using Explorer you have accessed the file logically.

Hope this helps just a little.

Good luck

Hello all, I just bought a video card, an XFX 6200 GeForce, it's for an older system. The PROBLEM I have is that I have been playing Rome: Total War and it seems laggy, the mouse movement is kind of sudden rather than smooth. I'm not quite sure what the problem could be, I know that it shouldn't be this way though because my old card was 64MB GeForce4 and I never, EVER had a problem with lag. Any ideas/fixes? Thanks for any help in advance.Hmm... I have the exact same card.

I know the Rome games I have seen require more high end GPU's, CPU's, and at least 1GB to 2GB of RAM.

You might hear this alot but, are your drivers for the card updated?

What's your CPU and how much RAM do you have installed.

Also, some games require you to have certain cards in a series, (5***, 6***, 7***, etc.) rather than just any card from a series. But this isn't always true.
Thanks for the reply, I found out that the lag was caused by antialiasing being on high. I have 1 GB of RAM, Pentium 4 Processor with 2.5 something GHz. Still though I don't see why the graphics aren't a big step up from my old card. I have all my drivers updated, yes.

Does the STRENGTH of the machine have anything to do with the graphics card performance? I have a big enough power supply and system requirements for the card, however, it is an old system.

One of my client's called me last month right after the Holiday...his 15 year old son burned up the Q6600 i had bult for his Architect Home Office...needless to say he was pretty peeved.
I had read that the Q6600 handles OC'ing pretty well...

Quote from: Calum on February 03, 2008, 02:37:06 AM

Again, I hate to disagree, but I am pretty sure you could see more benefit from overclocking, say, an Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 than, say, an Intel Pentium 3. The former can realise much higher clock speeds than the latter, and also a larger increase from stock speeds, therefore I would say that overclocking the newer, more expensive CPU has in this case led to a larger increase in performance.

I had read that the Q6600 handles OC'ing pretty well...

I have to admit to being a complete noob at that sort of stuff & it seems you know what your talking about.

Just not for me, but if I was gonna, I'll come talk to you

Hello yet again, i just solved a topic and already i have a new one...

Ok, so i convinced a friend to let me clean out his computer because there was so much dust in there i couldn't even believe it ran. Unfortunatly, when i was putting it back together i couldn't figure one piece out which turned out to be a really dumb mistake. In the process of figureing it out, though, i got very annoyed and a little rough with it. It's possible i've broken something. It would be good to know what though.

So the actual problem is that when i turn on the computer nothing happens. The monitor shows nothing. It knows it's connected to something, i don't get the no signal message, but it stays on standby.

I've tried a few basic things. I tried a different hard drive in the computer, still got nothing. I tried the video CARD in a different computer, worked fine. I tried the hard drive in a different computer, and it didn't exactly work, but at least i got a picture on the screen, so it's not the current problem if one at all.

I do know of one problem for SURE. The panel on the front is connected to the motherboard for lights and the power switch and such, and i know i put the cables back in the wrong way, but i didn't figure that would AFFECT the computer like this.

Oh yes, the computer is still getting power, fans and various lights come on, so don't think that i just put the front panel power cable in the wrong place and that's the problem.
Also, one further note that MIGHT help, the cd drive won't open when i turn it on for some reason, it has a green light that says it's busy the entire time.

I don't think you need computer specs for this problem, any ideas here?Check to make sure the RAM is secured in place along with the vidoe card, and processor the RAM is at least clipped in place, the video card i've checked a few times it being the most obvious source, and the processor is under a heat sink that i just plain didn't touch, in fact the processor is the one thing i'm not even quite sure how to check

EDIT: Extra update, on the motherboard there's a green light that isn't coming on. i don't know if it normally does, or what it's for, so that might be completely useless, but thought i should mention it.Ok, so i've been playing around with it more and i've come across something else. I said that the CD drive wouldn't open, but that's only when it is connected to the motherboard via IDE cable. I took out the IDE cable and left the power cable in and it let me open the cd drive.
I suppose this does make some logical sense, but perhaps that helps?
When i saw this i also noticed that there's a little blue box with 8 switches right above the IDE ports. I don't know what it's for, but perhaps i flipped a few switches on it that i shouldn't have. Do you guys know what it is?
EDIT:Something about CPU Bus and external frequencies, maybe not the problem

Also, I can't turn on caps lock or any of those. Normally the computer won't let you turn them on or off until it's in windows, and since i can't turn them on period it means its not just that it won't display what's happening on the monitor, but that it just plain isn't loading properly.Okay you lost me. But try checking all the connectors an make sure there secured to the board or device. Make sure that anything that your unaware of is looked up in the motherboard manual. Thats what its for. What did you remove??? Sounds like the IDE cable to the cd drive mite be bad. Just need more info on what you didAll the cables are secure, i checked over the basics a few times.

In order to identify the problem i removed/replaced a few parts. I switched the hdd with no success, i've tried the video card in another computer where it worked fine, and i've disconnected all drives except the hdd to see if it helped.

If you're talking about for the CD drive i just took out the IDE cable so that no information was transmitted to or from the drive. Basically this only informed me that there wasn't a problem with the CD drive door. Perhaps you guys know something specific that causes a CD drive to remain busy though.

It could jsut be a bad cable, but then that would mean that between taking it apart and putting it together both the CD and HDD IDE cable went bad.
I'll try the cables in another computer once i can.Quote from: Anythingwill on February 03, 2008, 08:43:08 PM

it's for, but perhaps i flipped a few switches on it that i shouldn't have. Do you guys know what it is?

From what I have seen when internal hard disks are placed into enclosures the jumper should be removed. You may have better luck connecting to another PC. If you're sure your USB 2.0 devices are operating properly, try opening disk management and seeing if the hard disk is shown there. This problem you have is pretty notorious.

http://www.Themanshan.comQuote

From what I have seen when internal hard disks are placed into enclosures the jumper should be removed

you NEED to ask a question ,in order for this to work..Quote from: m3rcllessd3ath on February 08, 2008, 12:22:39 PM

you need to ask a question ,in order for this to work..

Hey guys, I am new to this forum, found it while searching about possible reasons my pc wont start. Looks like a great forum, i have READ a few threads of users with similar problems. My computer is an

IBM thinkcentre
Windows xp SP2
pentium 4
512 ram
80 hd

Bought it about 3 years, know its not the sharpest tool by far lol, but have some data i would like to avoid LOSING. It has been a good computer, no complaints, never froze or anything, just wanted to turn it on yesterday and...SURPRISE... I guess the correct term is it does not boot. Nothing appears on the screen, no words, logos or anything. I can hear some noise inside the PC, know it could be the hard drive not working, but it makes the same sounds it always does. I know it could be any hardware problem. One note, this had happened like twice, maybe once every 6-8 months, but I would just turn it off, then back on again and everything would be back to normal... not this time I guess. Could it be a virus or something? I dont think so, have not downloaded any new files and I have anti-virus installed.

What do you guys think? Any suggestions??

Thanks for taking the time to read Pull the cover off and look for dead fans. And BLOW the dust out than take a look at the video card. Does it have a fan? If its not moving than I would say you need a new one.

This is a start of things to look at.
Due to the 'faltering' problem you describe, my guess is that your POWER supply unit is failing. I used to give mine a slap when it failed to boot and that WORKED several times before it gave up completely and I had to fit a new one.

A good dust blow-out never does any harm, I agree.

this is a built gaming computer,,, is this a video card prob???Not sure.
Try Clicking Here^ what he said. we need ACCURATE, complete, INFORMATION to troubleshoot. a list of hardware SPECS would be nice.hi buddy
check your BIOS and RUN Diagnostics on your computer and fisrt FIND out

i got this case in the mail today

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?depa=1&Item=11-162-011

there are so many connections to CONNECT to my motherboard...i am completely lost.

this is the MD i have and installing into this machine

http://global.msi.com.tw/index.php?func=proddesc&prod_no=237&maincat_no=1&cat2_no=171

heres what i cant figure out;

a 2nd hdd led 2 pin
power sw (blue/white 2 pins)

CONNECTED as one through casing:
mic in
mic bias
spkr out l/r
return l/r
ground

i got Jfp1 figured out with the front pwr and RESET buttons......but theres all these coming from the front

connected as one through casing:
gnd
vcc
tpa+
tpb+
tpb-
tpa-
gnd

connected as one through casing:
1-d
1 ground
1+vcc
1+d

connected as one through casing:
2 ground
2-d
2+vcc
2+d

i have no idea how to connect any of this.Quote

connected as one through casing

Quote

connected as one through casing

what the heck does this mean?

you really need to be more specific, i dont know what your asking. im taking a guess and assuming you need help connecting the front panel I/O's.

what functions does the front panel on your case have?
how many leads are coming out of the front panel?
are the leads not identified?
if they are identified, what are they labelled as?
what the heck does Jfp1 mean?
is the moon really made out of cheese?

I built a new computer, (4th one to date), and it won't post. I have a P5K ASUS M-Board, 2x1gb corsair ram, ati xt2600 PCI-E, 250 GB HDD, 585W Power supply. When I first put it together, I got it to post but the MB was defective so I had to send it back for an exchange. This board will not post at all and I have no video. I have gone back through the steps to assemble but still not posting. I need alittle help with this problem. I've never had a system not post. Any Ideas!?Have you tried using just one stick of RAM at a time to see if it posts?
Are the fans spinning when you turn the computer on?
Are you getting any system beeps?
Remove all but the following:
CPU/Fan
1 stick of RAM
Vid card
Monitor
Keyboard and mouse.

Double check all connections including the new 4 and 8 pin power leads.
Is this a new PSU ? ?

Post back with the results...This is a new build. Everything is brand new. I took out one ram and disconnected the harddrive and other disk DRIVES. Checked the connections and fired it up. At first this did nothing so I moved the ram to all other locations, nothing. Pulled that ram and put in the other and it fired right up! I will check that other ram as soon as I get the system fully operational. More than likely I will be sending that ram back to Newegg.

Thanks for your help! Sometimes it better to have SOMEONE to ask, to PREVENT frustrations. Excellent. RAM is the most common ISSUE for new systems not posting (or even working systems with RAM upgrades)

Always best to check though... good LUCK getting it fully up and running

Well it's just the most horrifying thing I've ever encountered really...I bought this Dell Optiplex computer off of ebay and tried plugging a monitor into it today. The PC wasn't even plugged into the wall and as soon as I connected the monitor to the computer via that serial cable dealy, the monitor's green power-on indicator light turned yellow!

Has anyone heard of such a thing? My roomate says it is the video card, I just WANT to get an idea before I take it to my local repair shop.

I love ebay, but some people are just REAL scam artists, you know? Frig.

Thanks everyone!

BrentIt's not the computer.
If you power up most newer monitors connected to nothing the green light comes on and then turns yellow after no SIGNAL is found...the delay depends on the monitor manuf,I appreciate the reply, but it sounds like you're saying that it's the monitor, which it is not. See, i left it plugged in with both the PC and monitor's power supply also plugged in while I made dinner (approx 30mins) and it was still blank when I came back. Also, it's the monitor I'm using now that I tried which is new and works perfectly. you have VERIFIED that your monitor works by plugging it into a known working computer? if so, then i suspect the video card. I didn't say it was the monitor...i said this is normal behaviour for a monitor that is not connected properly or not recieving a proper signal...

Swap your vidcard into another machine to test this...if it does the same thing then as Homer says you need a new vid card.

Dear Users
I cant access my pics from the USB drive i have scanned with symentic virus with completely updated version but no virus it is showing the size that 1.33GB is used but no files are showing and ALSO not any hidden folders i ahve PASTED in my usb so plz tell me how to reterive this data bec it is very important
ThanksPlease provide more INFORMATION. Click here.
Also, what is the make and model of the USB drive? Is it a FLASH drive or an external hard disk drive? dear users my usb is:
KINGSTON 4GB Data traveler 100 usb2.0
flash drive it is showind 1.33 gb used space but no files & folders are shown to me by computer
i have some v.v.important pics of my family plz solve my problem i will B greatful to u for this act of kindness thanks!
Try Recuva

now, i had TWO ddr pc3200 400mhz 512 mb ram sticks in my computer, one was a ultra, the other, kingston, the computer came up saying all this crap about memory conflifct or somthin in a blue screen of death, i dont even see why there would be one if the sticks are the same type, ive never had this problem before, even with two totally differant brands... im really confused about why this is happening, i would have remembered more of the error had i not been so annoyed at my proccessor fan which i intend to replace whenever i can find a ride, this one sounds like The Wasp 5000 as my friend called... please help with this ram problem, 512 ram + celeron D = reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeealy slowwww.memtest86.com

DOWNLOAD and run the free checker and test each stick of RAM individually and then both together. As they are not identical they could be non-identical in a way that matters. There's more to it than the listed speed.

Did this used to work correctly, or it is a new combination?yeah, worked fine, started gettin random probs with this and that and just about every friggin thing on this computer recently, the thing acts like its trying to either annoy me to the point of insanity, kill its self, or both. ill download that, and run it TOMMOROW, all i intend to be doing tonight is chatting and being on this forum while runnin winamp, should be fine


oh, i cant use the program till i get a floppy from my dad or someone or somewhere, dunno when that will be, i use to have a ton of them but i have no clue where they went
If you get an error message it is always a good idea to write it down word for word. It can be important. i did get one error message earlyer, lemme see if i can find the piece of paper it was on, oh and i couldnt get this one, ocmputer was overheating for no reason...

heres the error i got earlyer but was able to reboot:

a problem has been detected and windows has been shut down to prevent DAMAGE to your computer

IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL

STOP: 0x0000000A (0x00000002, 0x00000001, 0x8040a6)

thats all i could get before the thing turned off, even THOUGH it wasnt supposed to turn off it did

Time for you to have a read:

http://www.tweaksforgeeks.com/IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL.htmli had tryed relocating the video card when it said it may be a vid prob, did fine, for a little while, then it was back, so i pulled the Ultra 512 stick and left the Kingston in the primary slot, later i put the ultra in the secondary and it does fine now... before the ultra was in the primary slot, i guess the kingston likes to be dominent or somthin, lol. thanks for tryin to help though, i was about to throw it out the window when the idea to put the 512 in the secondary slot hit me... i have no clue why the kingston has to be primary, but, it works, dont mess with it

Hi all,

Last night suddenly my computer crashed. I saw the start-up screen appearing, but when trying to LOAD Windows XP on start up the computer just reset again. I then tried to load Safe Mode, but the same thing happened.

I turned of the computer (a notebook) because it was very hot. Figuring the cooling was the problem, I waited some time and then turned it back on only to see the start up screen on which then appeared the following error:

1782 - Disk Controller Failure

I can enter the BIOS.

If I just ignore it and try to continue starting the computer, it will give the Non-System Disk or Disk Error message.

Is there any way I can recover the information on the hard disk? There's a lot of important stuff on it for my studies, and much much more important things

I have a Compaq Notebook. Evo N600C it SAYS on the thing itself. It runs Windows XP. I've never added ANYTHING to it.

I had the computer unplugged, removed the CMOS battery and the ACCU and then waited all night. This morning when I turned it on it started counting the memory and then awful clicking noises came from the hard disk. It took quite a while and eventually a new error message appeared saying something like "Fixed Harddisk TABLES (or something) or BIOS settings"... :-? The clicking continued for hours. Eventually I turned the thing of and when I put it back on I got the same old 1782.

*Very depressed*
That is usually a motherboard failure. If the disk controller is in fact ruined there, you will need a motherboard replacement or a new computer. Unfortunately there are not a lot of options with laptops. The Compaq site can advise you further on all the specific possibilities of that message. How did you remove the CMOS battery? Are you sure it was not the regular laptop battery?

Well, I just got done building my first COMPUTER. And I have everything PLUGGED in(keyboard, monitor) .. and I hit the button and .....

It comes on...all the lights come on and the fans start running ...but one problem.

There is no output to my monitor (BIGGEST problem). Nor when I press the "open" on the CD drive. That isnt working either (I checked inside the computer about the CD drive and it its hooked up right as far as I can tell.)

Is there anything Im missing?


Thnx in advanceAlso, no beeps or anything like that. Seemed to be running normally other than that.please clearly list your complete HARDWARE specs.

Hey all,
Sorry I don't recall the proper name for what I'm looking to do. If there is even a propper name. What I want to do is have a computer that has a harddrive that I will use for everyone on our network to back everything up. I was wondering what type of hardware I should use. I have plenty of spare computers but is it really necessary to waste a P4 on this? I mean I could use the P4 for another use. How would a P3 do with this job?Will this computer be performing a backup operation or will it essentially be just storage space accessable by ANYONE on the network? Can I assume this is a workgroup and not a domain? I'm thinking that I'm going to just keep it storage space for everyone to put their stuff on. And I'm going to be doing this via workgroup. If it's just going to store infrequently accessed data, the CPU shouldn't be STRESSED and the P3 will probably suffice. If it's going to be used more like a file server (data accessed frequently and by many users) you would be better off with the faster CPU.

It's hard to TELL you what else to use because I don't know your inventory. Important Question:
Is there a budget for this project or not?
If there is a budget I recommend setting up a RAID 5 array to help speed up the access and avoid data loss in the event of DRIVE failure. Also a gigabit ethernet CARD and a switch that has at least one gigabit port would be a welcome addition. Faster drive speeds and faster network speeds will benefit you more in the long run that a faster processor.

Hello-
I just changed a bad chipset fan on my Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe board and now I can't get it past the Asus splash screen. It will not allow me to ENTER setup by hitting "del" on the keyboard either. The Asus splash stays onscreen, it doesn't go black or anything. Also no beeps, no error message...no clues!

Has anyone got any suggestions of what I can try? Thank you for any help!

*Running XP pro Did you remember to use thermal paste ? ?

Here...

Are you sure the CPU and heatsink are seated properly?
Did you re-check all power connections ?Quote from: patio on February 06, 2008, 01:56:52 PM

Did you remember to use thermal paste ? ?

Here...

Are you sure the CPU and heatsink are seated properly?
Did you re-check all power connections ?

I recently downloaded EVEREST to find out what my computer was made of. Never SAW so many references to Duct Tape. Just kidding. One disturbing thing tho, . . . it SAYS my AGP is 'disabled' and may cause a performance penalty. Can't have that, . . but have no clue as to how to 'ENABLE' it. Or do I even have one of IT. what ever it is. Something to buy ? Or can I just Click something and make my machine run better ?? Please don't use big words. Thx. BuzzyWhat video adapter is there? Onboard or an add in card? What type?An adapter I bought new for a previous computer, brought forward to this NEWER computer which was garage built. NVIDIA GeForce FX 5200 128Mb. Dual.
I run two screens off of this computer, as I did the previous. Has always worked well.Is it an AGP card or a PCI card? The onboard video, if present,could be the AGP that is being referenced. Without details, we can only guess.

What is the computer or motherboard make/model?Motherboard ASUS A7M266-M Chipset AMD-760ASUS site sucks, and I think I researched this with you in the past. Does it have onboard video? Dows the blue 15 pin video port reside on the motherboard, or in an expansion slot? You don't even have to open the case.Please keep in mind that you're talking' to a dufuss here. I see a Blue 15 pin port in the BACK of the case, in the same general area as a red & yellow one . . . .and close to where the ethernet cable, mouse & keyboard plug in. NOTHING is plugged into the Blue, Red or Yellow . (?). The two monitors are plugged into the Dual Port Nvidia card in an expansion slot. (?)So it sounds like you have onboard AGP video. That may be disabled when an AGP card is plugged in there. If not it may be able to be disabled in the BIOS. The program may just be reading that the onboard AGP is disabled, as you would expect. Are you having problems? If not, I wouldn't worry about that.

Did Everest spot your nVidia card?Yes. Everest picked up on all the Nvidia stuff. Not having problems, . . just thought it might run even better.. Thanks. Going to work now.Glad to put your mind at EASE.

How to switch on POWER supply with out MB. (stand alone, no any hardware).
kohn Quote

How to switch on power supply with out MB.

Hi i am fixing up my previous computer who powers box blew and ruined the motherboard. I go a pentium 4 motherboard [no manual] which my cousin installed last night along with and a new power supply [only 250w]. we hooked up 2 hard drives and reformatted them windw xp last night. we couldn't figure where to plug in the power led and h.h.d led but got the power sw and the reset sw in the correct SPOT [i think]. anyway everything was working fine, i shut down the computer and now the next day, nothing happens. I push in the power button, no noises no nothing. On the mother board there is a small green light that is on, so i assume my power supply has't blown up again? I plugged it into different plugs around the house and unplugged the hard drives [only lines, not WHITE band] one at time and tried the power, i pulled off the ram 2-256mb and plugged back in. nothing. any ideas?Do you have a real (better than 250w) power supply to test with? The green light does NOT mean that it is good, only connected. I would first recheck all connections, then try another PSU.

What computer/motherboard make/model? WHat other items are connected?i owuld advise using a 350w PSU or betterI would advise a NAME BRAND power supply to prevent a recurrence. If you didn't SPEND at LEAST $50 or so you will be back. Too many people try to save a few bucks on one of the more critical components of a system, and one that can ruin all the rest. Go figure.Hi, i want to thank everyone for helping out, as it turns out, i did have the power button plugged into the wrong spot, all works fine now. But i am going to take the advice to get a bigger power box. thank you. [smiley=dankk2.gif] [smiley=engel017.gif]Glad you are all fixed up. Proper connections are a must, and unfortunately assumed by us, as we are not clairvoyant.

All my previous posts on the boards here are always network problems, why can't my network function NORMALLY?

1. When the phone rings, it kicks me off my wireless network. What should I do? change channels?

2. How come I detect wireless networks that I know for a fact are NOT there? What I notice sometimes is when I'm NOT on my network, it shows my network as avaliable, once I connect to it, I see my network and 2 others, sometimes 3, sometimes none.

dont know what happen to my other topic...and I think I tried changing channels but no luck.
Try changing channels and see if it works. All wired phones or wireless? Any? Is this that VOIP service?

Flamethe others mgiht be other people's networks, like a wireless in a house next to yours. they are getting quite popular.flame - I tried changing channels, doesn't really help. Wireless phones all around in the house, all of it, thats like...6-7 different phones.

hyper - one problem, I detect networks at different times, ones I KNOW aren't there. I see at least 4 different networks are different times, I don't even have 4 houses around me that can possible transmit through that distance and through a bajillion walls.
help? Still like this, I apologize for checking this once in a while.
You may have an insurmountable problem here with a conflict between your various bits of wireless hardware. I believe it is possible for certain wireless CARDS to falsely detect some cordless phones as a wireless network. That seems to happen at my home, anyway.

Unfortunately it is probably up to the consumer (you) to check whether your wireless equipment TRANSMITS and receives on conflicting frequencies. Is there a way to change your phone system's frequency and your wireless network's frequency so that they are at least as far away from each other as possible?Giga...... Are you using ADSL or cable hispeed ? If using ADSL ,

is there a inline filter ahead of each of the cordless phones in your house

dl65 Quote

Unfortunately it is probably up to the consumer (you) to check whether your wireless equipment transmits and receives on conflicting frequencies. Is there a way to change your phone system's frequency and your wireless network's frequency so that they are at least as far away from each other as possible?

Giga...... Are you using ADSL or cable hispeed ? If using ADSL ,

is there a inline filter ahead of each of the cordless phones in your house

dl65 Roll Eyes

Modem problem? I'm having a problem that I think is related to my modem. I use windows XP and my modem is Rockwell HCF 56K FAx Voice modem. When I first go on the internet it works okay for about the first two pages. Then, the little blue lights at the BOTTOM stop blinking.

When I request a new page or try and click on a link, still, it doesn't light up again, and when I open te dialogue box for the connection it shows that there are no bytes being sent or received, even though I've requested a new site. To get it working, or woken up as I call it, I have to go to my OE, and click send and receive. Suddenly the lights go on and bytes are sent and received; while the mail is being checked, I rush to my browser and click REFRESH or order the new page that I wanted. With the stimulus from the OE, the modem brings up the page.

As soon as I'm done checking the mail, however, it stops again. Like right now, I'm sure to post this page I will first have to check my mail. Pretty tiresome! Is there something wrong with the modem, or with its settings, or something else altogether?
Many thanks.
Dr. D.Sounds like a fault with Windows' TCP/IP system. What version of Windows are you running? How long have you had this problem?I use Windows XP Professional. The problem has been going on for probably over a month. I recently was hit by adware, etc., and reformatted. The problem was there before the REFORMAT and after. By the way, I don't know what you meant by TCP/IP. Can you explain more? How can we really diagnose and fix this problem, please?

Thank you
Dr. D'EliaHa! I very much doubt you really want to know much more about TCP/IP than the fact it's the language that all internet-connected computers speak. If you want more, you could start >here<.

When you reinstalled, did you use an original Windows XP CD, or a copy/slipstreamed CD?

Do you have another (external) modem that you can try? They're quite cheap these days.Was $7.5 yesterday, $12.50 today:

http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=56SX92WB-BULK&cat=MDMHello. Are you saying that I should replace my modem, or that I should now have two modems? I live in the Middle East and it is unlikely that any hardware would be inexpensive, so if I have to buy something, I want to buy the thing that I will really need, not just a diagnostic tool. The CD that I installed was a copy; we don't have the original anymore. In fact original copies are few and far between here,
So, is there any way to diagnose this situation to determine whether the problem is in the modem or in the TCP/IP and installation? Can we troubleshoot this in anyway without having to buy extra hardward. If not, then I'll have to try and find that hardware.
Thanks
Dr. D.middle east eh? god im stayin in america no matter what, even thought the comunisitcwealth of the states is screwed up, tech is easy to find here... the modem i have no idea about, but i can say i have never had good experiences with fax modems, if you didnt live in the middle east, i would ship you one of my ole 56k modems that i no longer useThanks a lot, I think. Does everyone else agree that fax modems are not good? I'll keep this in mind if I do have to get another one.
And, finally, and again, is there a way I can diagnose this situation? I don't want to have to buy another modem only to find out that it was the TCP/TP from the beginning that was causing the problem and be stuck with a new modem on my hands for no reason.
Thanks
Dr. Dsorry, i dont know much about dial up anymore, forogot when i moved to DSL, wish i could helpNo no, you're fine with fax modems. In fact that's exactly what you need. If buying one is a hurdle, is there a chance that you may be able to borrow one, just for testing purposes? If possible, borrow a USB modem, with the necessary drivers.

Sorry, but diagnosis generally involves elimination of possibilities, doesn't it? We need to find out if the modem is the culprit.Yes, that's a good idea Mr. Pomeroy. I believe I could borrow such a setup for diagnostic purposes. By the way, I also notice that this problem seems to have its worse and better moments. My son, who like all teenagers seem to have computer attenae to help them relate to what goes on inside this mysterious box, says that it's the server. He says that the server has its BUSY times, or moments when it has fewer lines available; so without really disconnecting, it just gives its connection over to another user or to its own offices. Then, when I try and check the mail, an alert comes through that I'm back on and the line is freed.

I'm with him on this logic, right up to the point that how COME just requesting a new internet page doesn't do the job? Why does only email wake up the modem. What do you think? Would this be a plausible explanation?Well as I mentioned before, I suspect the problem is with your TCP/IP installation. It's easiest to check the modem first though.

If the modem is not the culprit, then reinstallation of Windows may be necessary.Would that mean that I would have to reinstall the whole thing or could I just reintall the part that I need, the TCP/IP? I have asked my son, in the meantime, to try and find the external modem so we can rule out modem problems. I'll keep you posted. Many thanks.
Dr. DMmm... you could use Windows XP's repair facility? Worth a try.

This is crazy, I have five devices assigned to one IRQ and it should not be working (look at picture). I have asked two of my friends that are computer engineers but they have no idea why or how it should be working. The question I am ASKING is how can I make it correct it and why did it go haywire? I first found out about it because Oblivion has not been working, and I have been in contact with Bethesda for a few weeks, and they said I have to REASSIGN them.

I asked them how I could do it but they told me to contact my mobo MAKER, which is Gigabyte. I have found out that due to the Chinese new year, they will not respond till 11 Feb 08 and even then, I have never been satisfied with the tech support of Gigabyte.

This post is not RELATED to my other post about the RAID 0 hard drives.

PC specs:
Gigabyte GA-N680SLI-DQ6 rev. 1.0
Core 2 Duo E6600 @ 3.2 GHz
EVGA GeForce 8800 GTS 640 MB
4 GB of OCZ SLI-ready RAM
500 GB Hitachi HHD
Windows XP Pro SP2

That does not look out of the norm for Windows XP. My screenshot is from a Dell Optiplex 745.

[FILE cleanup - saving space - attachment deleted by admin]I can understand if they are the same device but why are my video card and TV tuner are on the same one. The GBB36X is my RAID controller but I do not have any RAID devices (yet).Unused devices will sometimes still be listed/assigned an IRQ...this is Windows.
Are there any conflicts ? ?

Alright my USB problem fixed itself. Sorry, I didn't reset the CMOS. I mean I set the BIOS settings to default and now all my hard drives are mixed up (D: is F:, F: is F:, C: is D: and E: is E:, but nothing is pointing to the C: drive) and I get the hal.dll error booting into my first Windows installation. The new one I just installed on the same F:/ partition works fine.

Hi, I have recently put together a new rig. I have posted my system below. When I setup my harddrives, I set the first one up with xp then once I knew it was working, I installed the other 2. I didnt format the other two I simply installed them. I also enabled sata II on the drives.

The problem I am having is that my system recognizes the drives but I only SEE 1 drive at 80gigs even though I have 3 sata drives connected.

Why dont I see the other drives? Why dont I have more storage space?



THANKS in advance for reading and answering.




LANPARTY UT nF4-D SLI/SATAII Mod :-) THNX! --> (http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11400)
AMD Opteron 165
Enermax EG565P 535W 20+4Pin SLI V2.0 Power Supply
OCZ EB DDR PC-4000 2x1024MB Platinum Edition Dual Channel Kit
Deskstar 7K80 X3
XFX GeForce 7900GT 256MB DDR3 Extreme Edition
UltraSharp 2007WFP 20.1-inch WIDESCREEN Flat Panel LCD Monitor
Zalman7000B-Cu LED CPU Coolerwhere are u looking for the other 2 HD's? My computer? cause chances are u wont see them there.

try this....

START>CONTROL PANEL>ADMINISTRATIVE TOOLS>COMPUTER MANAGEMENT>STORAGE>DISK MANAGEMENT

u should see ur other 2 hd's unformatted there. u also can format them there too.



reeves...... If you go into disk management in the control panel .....those other 2 drives should probably be showing up as raw ......... in other words they have not been formatted .
If you format them , they will show up in My computer .......


dl65

I am thinking of buying a computer system off a friend. It is a Compaq SFF with 512mb ram and 80gb hdd, HOWEVER it only has a 1ghz Pentium III-1000 CPU and i would LIKE a faster processor. What processors can i upgrade to?Those name brand computers are not meant to be upgraded. You GET what you get and that's PRETTY much it. It should do GREAT for anything except extreme gaming however.hmm ok thanks. I have a system i bought from someone who builds them himself. It has an AMD Athlon 1.8ghz processor with 256mb ram and a 40 gig hdd so i might just upgrade that then. thanks againA self built would certainly be infinitely easier to upgrade, repair, etc. A SFF has limited capabilities for both, beyond just being a proprietary build.

I picked up a 2GB usb thumb drive YESTERDAY and when I plug it into my computer (XP Pro), it FINDS new HARDWARE.. then brings up the FOUND New Hardware wizard which wants me to install drivers for it.

These things didn't come with any drivers.. they were just in a pile in a bin, no packaging or anything.

What am I supposed to do? There's no model number on it. It just says "Micro Center" (the name of the store). They were giving these AWAY free with a coupon sent out to tons of people.Cancel out of the driver setup.
Right click My Computer and select Manage
Choose Disk Management and see if the drive is listed...if so select Format.

Re-boot without the thumb drive in and re-insert it and you should be able to use it properly.
This is because they buy them in Bulk and some have the U3 protection on them which you don't need...

I would like to build a 4ch security system, with a DVI card thru my PC. Is it poss to run it (the DVI) constantly VIA it's own monitor, WHILST using my PC? ( I have 2 monitors) Can it be set to record to it's own HDD? I have a spare PC but due to space restrictions, am RELUCTANT to USE this. My PC is a home build Foxconn761GXK8MB AMD Athlon 64bit 1Gb Ram 80Gb HDD running XP Home SP2. Gforce 7100 Graphics card. Anyhelp would be much appreciated. Regards to all, Alex. My appologies for errors should read 'DVR PCI Card'.

I've searched this forum and the FAQ section I guess you would call it and have found similarites with the problem I'm having. But I'm not 100% on if they are the same so decided to make post.

Computer Specs
Windows Xp Service Pack 2
Asus PN532-SLI Deluxe (not sure if thats the right model number)
Intel 3.6Ghz
600 watt PSU
8800 GTS EVGA (switched 6800 in after pc starting acting up thinking was a vid card issue)
2 GB RAM
160 GB Hard Drive
Sound Blaster Xfi Sound card

Problem:
First to start I've had this set up for more then a year and its worked fine so havn't added anything new to cuase the problem. Fans all work Hard Drive acts normal for a sec or two then does nothing (makes the loading noise when you turn on pc then just idles) everything runs on the PC , CD drives open , fans on vid card work, keyboard and mouse light up. As far as the "POST" thing don't really recall there ever being any beeps my pc made. Only thing I COULD call a beep orginates from the Harddrive and its ONE long beep sound which I've heard it make ever since I've had it.

But onto the problem it started a day or two before I didn't think to much of it THOUGHT at the time it was a driver issue. What would happen was that the PC would freeze on me. Sometimes alittle bit after the desktop came up and other times 30 mins or more, sometimes not at all. So made me think was just a driver problem and I did a system restore and brought it back to a few days ago.

PC went a day without it having any problems thought problem was solved. Turned PC off next day tried to boot pc loaded up went to the XP load screen and froze. Still didnt think to much about, restarted it and then it wouldn't show any image on the screen.

Naturally I thought guess 8800 gone bad so I put a old graphics card in (6800) and still got the same problem even switched PCI-E slots nothing. Then tried to see if it was my moniter went and got an old working moniter and tried it, got the same results. So pretty conviced of it not being a vid card issue I start thinking maybe it was the hard drive but thats just my uneducated guess. Would I still get a screen to come up on Moniter if I had Hard Drive unplugged? If so I still didn't once I removed it totally (IDE cable and power supply).

I've tried multiple things unpluggin everything and only having essitentails powered up and in Motherboard (no cd drives, sound card,etc) still had the same result. Removed one RAM at a time tried each in a different slot still had same result. A few new ones I'll try out that I got from the site one being try to onboard mobo vid the other was "power cycling" turning pc off and on real quick to try and jump start it.

But the thing that gets me is that some times very rarly now say 1 out of 100, and its usally after I had left it alone for a while I can get a screen to come up but havn't had as much success recently. Some times its just the Mobo screen (grey screen has Mobo name on it) and it'll just freeze there. Other times I've been able to get the XP screen and either have it Freeze or have moniter go black and have the yellow light on. Had it get as far as the desktop once and go to no signal and stop. Each one of these times the second it froze or went to stand by on moniter the hard drive had stoped and sat idle ( could tell it was runing but not loading).

So I really have no idea what is wrong, wether its a bad CPU which is possible I guess never used the stock one that came with it used a much bigger and one that cooled it down better but left my pc runing quiet a bit (5hrs at a time sometimes). Or if its a powersupply issue or Hard Drive issue ( if somebody could give me characteristics of what a bad hard drive would be like so I could compare it with mine it be nice not sure if its the problem but what I'm hoping it is) or if its a bad Mobo.

Thanks for time reading I know its a bit of info but thought I'd put down as much I could.
Welcome to the CH forums.

We sometimes have to nudge new posters into giving even sketchy details of their problem system, your first post could be hung out as an example that lots of info is good info. Thanks.

I suggest you backtrack just a little and run RAM diagnostics program Memtest86 from Memtest.com and run the hard drive manufacturers diagnostic program which is usually AVAILABLE from the manufacturer's site.

Do you have temperature monitoring hardware/software installed, if so are the temps within the processor and chipset specs (I think the correct model number is P5N32-SLI) which are shown here.Thanks for the reply

Some thing I forgot to mention was that sometimes instead of freezing it would just automatically restart.Also the model number that you posted is the correct name of the motherboard I have.

But about those programs,I don't have any way to run Memtest or the hard drive diagnostic program or and have no hardware or software that would be able to check temp specs.. I'm using a pc from school to post and have no back up at home to try any of those programs out on and the pc thats having the problem doesn't let me get anywhere to do so.

I tried the steps that were mentioned in the FAQ section the the power cycling, the taking out of the battery and putting it back in, the resetting of the CPU. All of which had no change, I checked the CPU out didn't look damaged at all no bent pins, no burn't marks or anything just the temp paste stuff on top of it to help keep it cooled down. Same with the battery looked like nothing wrong with it.

Took the liberty of cleaning out my machine was dusty I don't suppose that could cuase hardware to go bad? It was pretty dusty all over the pc.

Something wanted to add if I had no hard Drive plugged in and just had vid card and mobo and fans, etc hooked up would I get a message on my pc to show up on moniter. Some thing like "No hard drive found" or anything, cuase if so I don't get that when I have the hard drive unplugged get nothing on screen on start up the same as it is when hard drive is plugged in.

Thanks for reply since I don't have anyway to use the programs is it probably just best for me to spend the money and have a place like Geek Squad at best buy check it out?If you can burn CDs on that PC go here http://www.ubcd4win.com/downloads.htm and download that and burn it to CD.
Boot from that CD and run the hard drive diagnostics. It should tell you for sure whether your hard drive is bad or not.
I recommend running all of the diagnostics on there.Hi,
I am not really good in Computer but its good to contribute.
I had once that problem with Asus motherboard playing up from the boot.
I try resetting the CPU, RAM, Hard disk but didn't work and somehow when i replaced the cpu fan with the other of the same type and it works.

Thanks



Thanks guys for the help I took it down to best buy for them to look at mobo went out on it. So decided to just get new pc guess get to find out all the problems that other people with vista have been having now . I don't know much about dual core cpus but what I ended up getting was HP with AMD x64 dual core 5600+, 3gbs ram DDR2, 640 GB HD for $749 not sure if that was a good deal or not though is it? But anyway I'd like to thank all that helped out replys were real quick and glad I found this site.

Hi All,
I am getting ready to build a new system for a friend. He wants me to add lights and other toys to the case to make the system look good. I have been looking around on the WEB for ideas and places to get the supplies to do this.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a good site to BUY from and MAYBE a good site for some examples?

Thanks!
Newegg is an excellent site, as are Cybgerguys and X-tremegeek. Tigerdirect is not too bad. i use www.ncix.com. the most common way to cheaply and easily make the comp look good is to buy LED fans. you will find though that high performance fans do not come with LEDS.

personally, i want to buy some high performance fans and PAINT them with a clear coat of UV paint, then i would like to buy a set of UV cold cathodes. that way, you would still get the performance of the fans and they would look good as well.This is a PRETTY cool site also:

http://www.xoxide.com/Thanks! Good place to start to look at whats out there.

I ran across a few pictures of boxes others have done. A lot of really impresive stuff out there.

is there any way to bypass NETGEAR firewall? What exactly do you mean? What are you trying to do this for?well ive been trying to go on myspace but my NETGEAR wireless router blocks myspaceQuote from: blackgoat on June 20, 2007, 10:45:56 AM

well ive been trying to go on myspace but my NETGEAR wireless router blocks myspace

I'm thinking of buying a Geforce 7800 GS graphic card, and i have a P4 3.0 Ghz w/HT CPU. I want to know if that will be enough to go HAND in hand with the card or must i get a new one. THANK You.The processor is fine if you have an appropriate slot to plug the card in, and a good enough PSU to pull it. The 7800 GS supports AGP, wich is all i have for now. I was told it might "bottleneck" the card, because its too old. After all its a high end card on par with 64 bit/dual-core CPUs. What is PSU?Quote

What is PSU?

Hi. My question is if you have 3 hard drives, one that you just reformatted and plan to only use for backing up GRAPHICS and music..do you have to put windows or something on it or can you just copy files over to it? I KNOW that might be a silly question, but I am not that literate about computers. Any help appreciated.

The reason I am having to do this is that my C Drive is getting ready to crash. It's a compaq with 3 hard drives..one is C: windows xp, i think the other is E:windows 98..but might be xp and the D drive is the one I just reformatted. I don't know how I would BOOT into that to put a windows xp on it. My EX boyfriend set this whole computer system up and all I know how to do is drive it. LOL

Once I find out what I have to do about the D Drive now that I reformatted it, I would appreciate some help in where to post my problem with the C drive that's getting ready to crash. Thank you and Have a great dayGood question dear.
How do you know that your c drive is getting ready to cruch?
You dont need any xp on the d drive that you just formatted all need to do is copy your pictures and your music to the d drive thats all. Using media player you will have to link your musics. What i mean is if you cut and paste your songs media will not play them, you will have to search for media in the d drive and you are sorted dear...

Good luck sweety, is there a chance since your exSmooth, lol. GX44 the name says Comp Hope.
Why not ..LOL... Exactly, Computer hope, haha.

I'm not saying anything against it... Was just admiring your smooth talking skills, heh.

I'm about to wander into new territory. I asked a tech about a separate tower with hard drives so I just had to change mother board to update(grade). He said "oh you mean a SERVER, that's what I have as my home network and that's the way to go". We have three computers at home right now with a partial network, only two on it at this time. What are the paticulars and is it "the way to go".I do hope that "tech" isn't a close friend or relative, because he appears to have been talking out of his backside. The question is: what do you want to do? If you are looking to upgrade your computer, you will probably need to change motherboard, processor & fan. You may also need to change graphics CARD and certain other add-ons. It really DEPENDS on how big a jump you're MAKING. If you're upgrading the lot, the only thing you'll really be able to RESUSE is the floppy drive & CDROM. Nothing else is going to be up to the job.

So tell us a bit more about your project we can perhaps try and give you slightly more balanced advice...

I have been given an HP Vectra vl420 computer. It was giving a friend some trouble freeing up at times so he purchase a new computer. The modem was removed and the harddrive was formatted to remove any thing on it.
I tried to turn it on using a new monitor and the monitor does not show a display, I have a recovery disc but the drives are dead.
Is this a BOIS problem?
Will the compter start with a bad computer 3 volt battery.? And how do I load an OS if the drives are dead?
Any BEEPS on startup ?
Did he remove the RAM when he gave it to you ? ...Matter of fact did he remove the hard drives ? ?
If you're getting no signal and no beeps on startup i'd check the items above first...
Then borrow a working power supply of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there to see if it's the culprit...
It should still run even if the CMOS battery is dead but it wont hurrt to replace it ...about 5 bucks at Wally World PART # CR 2032.

Yes, it beeps once at the end of startup and then sits there.
The ram is still installed, I have pulled the battery but did not get one today. I will pick one up tomorrow. I have the recover disc but are useless with out the drives. The hard drive was removed and erased and put back. I will check the out put of the power suppy tomorrow afternoon when I return from work. The hard drive is a 40 gig, Seagate. Thje lights on the front of the comuter are on except the CD rom drives are not on.What method did he use to wipe the drives ? ?
He may have just ran FDisk but forgot to run format.
You can grab a WinME bootdisk from bootdisk.com...double clik the DLoad with a clean floppy in and it creates a boot floppy.
Then re-boot the machine...at the A: prompt type format C: /u and hit Enter...
At the end it will ask for a volume name hit Enter for none.
The machine should now be able to run the recovery CD's...I have the restore disc for the computer, But since ALL of the drives are dead it is useless at the moment. also I do not get a promp because the screen is dead .I saw "where anything will " is describing a lot of the same thing I am experiencing. I disconnected the IDE cable and was able to open and close doors also. So it should narrow down the power supply is ok , shouldnt it.?Not neccessarily...best way to determine PSU issues is to borrow a known good one of the same wattage or greater and swap it in there...Patio,
I added a new ram today and still nothing. I decide to remove the CPU. It was stuck to the fan when I removed the fan. I pried it loose and remounted it in the motherboard and reinstalled the cooling fan.
IT WORKS!!!
So I then reloaded my software through the recover disc. Thank you for responding to my questions . Hope this helps someone else.

About 3 or 4 months ago, my laptop started having problems after working abosolutely fine since I bought it in July of 2005. The problem was that at times, usually when the computer wasn't on a perfectly level surface, everything would freeze, and the HD light under the display would stop blinking. It would unfreeze after a little positioning, but it was quite obvious something was wrong. I checked IBM's website (it's a Thinkpad T43 laptop) for possible solution. It told me to reseat the HD. I did that, but it didn't work. I also went through the list of other solutions IBM has on the site, and still, nothings worked. I got a little desperate, and frustrated, so I backed up all of my files and did a complete factory restore to see if that would do ANYTHING. It hasn't. And for about a week or two now, the freezing has gotten much worse. For the past week the computer wouldn't even start let alone run unless it was on a perfectly flat and stable surface. Any movement at all would cause it to freeze, and this time it wouldn't come out of that freeze. Right now, the computer won't even start. When I turn it on, the opening IBM screen shows, and I can hear the fans and stuff spinning on the inside, but the HD light doesn't blink, and the screen doesn't change. A few times it would progress to a screen saying that Windows didn't work right during the last start up, and give me a list of options to do, such as starting in safe mode or using the last known good configuration. However, when I press the up arrow to MAKE my selection, the computer FREEZES again. It won't even let me open any of the BIOS screens, or IBM's access IBM page. Right now I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to take it to someone to get fixed, but I just wanted to see if anyone on here may have some SUGGESTIONS. THANKS for any help.Unfortunately laptops are not made for user repair, so I think it is best if it goes to the shop. It may be the hard drive, or something much worse. If still in warranty I would send it in for repair pronto! yeah, i wouold also, it could be the armature rubbing the hard drive platters, which is very bad

My Canon ip3000 has given good service over the years but now I find it won't print cyan. I have replaced the cyan cartridge but the problem persists. I found that if I ran Deep Clean three or four times cyan printed, however it soon DISAPPEARED again. I assume that the nozzle is clogged. Can I fix this without taking the printer to pieces? Is it worth having it repaired (although it cost $300 when I bought it I guess I could buy one equally as good much more cheaply).

This will probably be CONSIDERED a simple question with an obvious answer (ie buy a new one) but I have had some unexpected help from PREVIOUS posts.Most likely the print head needs to be replaced...

Try here first.stevejohnson 1958, I have a suggestion (though i have never yet been in a position to use it). I used to deal with an INK refill supplier in Arkansas that was extremely helpful and very current on printer technology. As a part of their product line they offered some kind of cartridge rejuvinator that supposedly not only restored a dried out cartridge but also worked to clear clogged printer heads. i would suggest you visit their web site www.ink-etc.com where all their products are described. If you are in the U.S.A or Canada they will offer a toll free number and will most definitely try to be helpful. If the next step is to turf the printer what have you got to lose? good luck ,truenorthSome people say that an ammonia based cleaner such as Windex will work as well as most of the printhead rejuvenating liquids out there.
I had Cannon 3000's for years - if your model has a Print Head into which the Ink Cartridges fit your print head is more than likely dying. You can try soaking the Print Head in water OVERNIGHT and then drying it with a hair dryer - this worked for me a couple of times and gained me another month or two of use. Replacement Print Heads are $80+ and I personally don't think it is worth it when a new printer is not much more.

I just bought myself a barebone kit and it come with a EVGA e-7100/630i Motherboard and a Intel Pentium E2180 Processor (dual core).

I have a heatsink/fan from another computer, but the screws dont match up and wont fit.

Any SUGGESTIONS on what size or type I should get (under 30 or 40 DOLLARS perferably(sp)).

Ive LOOKING all over the web and CANT find anything.Quote

Ive looking all over the web and cant find anything.

My m/b type elite 661FX-M, Chipset; sis964; audio; socket mPGA478b
more info:
Link Edit
I got friend computer with description as above.
Problem:
Theres missing CPU FAN.

ADVISE:
1.Can anyone help with GETTING the right cpu fan description?
2.what types of CPU FAN are available in general?

Thanks
Close9us




1. i DONT UNDERSTAND this question. you want us to describe a fan?
2. there are a number of CPU heatsinks available.

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?minorcatid=1023&subminorcatid=16

all the heatsinks, in the link provided above, will work with your CPU. which one you would like to purchase DEPENDS on your budget.Here is a site that you can pick a CPU fan. According to the info you provided this is a socket 478 Intel P4. The link below will take you where you need to go to get a fan for CPU. I would say try to get a "ball bearing" fan if possible and that "ThermalTake" is a reliable brand name.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=2010110574+1371026032&name=Socket+478

Goood Luck....Hey guys
Sorry for late reply. I was out tour in the islands and whr there is no internet and CAME back on monday.
Thank you so much for your help it works.
I finally got one that was compatible to the cpu i am using.

many thank Q and regds

Close9

hi, i have a Dell Inspiron 600m and i dont know the bios password.
It was not originally mine and i dont have a way of contacting the previous owner so Dell wont help.
I tried removing the Cmos battery for 30 min which did nothing
I looked on a few websites with tutorials, but i dont understand what they mean.
I have gotten up to 2:19 based on this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFoBuJr2l_M
but they dont show what they do past that.
Will anybody guide me through the rest of the steps
Here is a picture of where the thing the guy opened.




Full size here
http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l209/jotie21/Picture012.jpg


Thanks
Welcome to the CH forums.

Forum rules prevent discussion on how to get around security measures. While we can sympathize with you how would you feel if your pc was stolen and this forum was used to gain information on how to crack your password(s)

Perhaps a Moderator would like to comment?

ok, thanks for informing me rather than not replying at all.I dont think it would do any harm to inform him, as LONG as he is the legal owner, not like "hacking" the BIOS password would allow unauthorised access to the OS.....

but this leads me to ask: What do you need the BIOS password for anyways? as long as it boots there shouldnt be an issues.Quote from: LtRyan

I dont think it would do any harm to inform him, as long as he is the legal owner

What do you need the BIOS password for anyways? as long as it boots there shouldnt be an issues.

... He is in ownership know of the pc isn't he?

So it is his.

You need a motherbaord manual for the board if you dont have it look for the make and model of the pc. Cause you have to open the pc in order to remove it. There problem resolved.

I have just been given a PC that has been totally wiped. When I TURN it on it says "operating SYSTEM not found". Erm where do I get an operating system disc?Go to your local COMPUTER store. If your computer can handle it, go buy Windpws XP Home Edition the FULL CD. It'll cost almost $200.

FlameI was looking for a cheaper alternative :-?You could pick up an old copy of Windows 98 on eBay for buttons. Or download a Linux distribution for free.Right I have Windows 98, 2000 and XP on disc. I don't know what to do with them to get the PC runningPut one in the CD drive, and restart the computer. When it asks, boot from the CD.

FlameI've tried that. It just says operating system not DETECTED. Ive entered the BIOS and changed the disc priority so it is actually detecting the disc drive but still nothing else is happeningWhich disc were you using? Any hints on the computer itself? Is this a real Windows CD or some sort of restore CD? More info please.computer specs would be nice alos, you dont want to isntall a VERSION of windows on a pc that cant handle it

i'm thinking about purchasing a external hard drive, and i was wondering
is firewire or usb better/faster?
or is it better to get an internal sata?USB 2 seems to be the current standard if you want external. If there is no need of transferring that drive around, an internal would be less expensive.In test reports I've read, USB2 generally performs better than Firewire, too. Firewire seems to have a fairly niche market with video data capture/transfer.go with USB 2.0, its the best for external hard drive cases, this is the case i plan to get when i BUILD a new computer:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817801004

not the best looking, but overall a GOOD external harddrive case, it also supports both usb 2.0 and sata... i just got an idea about that drive... is there any way it could be hooked up through both USB and firewire to increase the data transfer speed?k, thanks guysQuote

is there any way it could be hooked up through both USB and firewire to increase the data transfer speed?

Quote

is there any way it could be hooked up through both USB and firewire to increase the data transfer speed?

Possibly, if you are able to code bespoke communications drivers; that would require detailed knowledge of kernel-level programming, thorough understanding of USB and Firewire comms protocols, and a very, VERY big beard.

or is it even possable to increase the range without changing the antenna? i am willing to modify my current antenna if thats what it takes to make it work, wireless is driving me insane, range is way to short, signal is too weak, ECT... if ANYONE knows ANYTHING about increasing the range without modifying the router, only my card or antenna, preferably my antenna, then please help.

thanks in advance


EDIT:

forgot to post my wireless card make and modle ><
its the one boxed in redYou can do that if you want. You might also consider moving it. Keep the router/antenna away from mirrors and WINDOWS. Keeps doors and such open, or move it closer to where you want to be. You can always buy an adapter which is an external antenna, so you can get better reception that way.

Flamethats the problem, im at my grandmothers and the signal is coming from the local college, according to my PING and WHOIS search on the IP of the router, i have to be right next to a window to get it, and if the computer isnt in the right place, with the antenna in the right position it will not get the signal.... oh the pciture i tryed to upload didnt work, lemme try again
...If you get a more powerful wireless G adapter antenna, it will probably reach...

FlameSo you're trying to pinch the signal from elsewhere? Is that OK with them?dunno if it is, its unsecured wireless, i bet there are a ton of people using it between here and the colledge, but, i dont want to have to change the antenna unless there is there is no other chooseQuote

dunno if it is, its unsecured wireless, i bet there are a ton of people using it between here and the colledge, but, i dont want to have to change the antenna unless there is there is no other choose

Trying to troubleshoot why my monitor screen keeps flickering in color .. mostly pinks. In fact just a while ago my whole screen turned bright pink, but I was still able to see what was on the screen.

I thought at first it might be my brand new monitor, but now I am THINKING it might be my video card.

Sure could use some input.

ThanksHave you made any changes to your system recently? Which operating system are you using? Are there any magnets near the monitor or computer? Have you tried updating your video card drivers? try using another monitor to identify if this is a video card issue or a monitor issue.

Flamewhat type of monitor is it?? LCD?Plasma?? or the normal old picture tube? (the REALLY wide ones)

because if it is the old picture tube style, it is PROBABLY the monitor. ive had that problem before.Or it could be the connection...Gosh, thanks for all the replies. Checking things out like you suggested.

The monitor is a brand new Acer 19" wide screen, not even had it a month.

XP Pro SP2
3400 Processor
1024 Ram
All-in-Wonder 2006 Edition (9600 series)



Quote

Have you made any changes to your system recently? Are there any magnets near the monitor or computer? Have you tried updating your video card drivers? Try using another monitor to identify if this is a video card issue or a monitor issue.

Flame

hey im trying to burn vectorliinux to a cd, but on my computer the blank cd shows up as 648 mb when it says 700mb on the disc. I know there are 650mb discs out there but on them it says "74min" and on this one it says "80min". So how does this work? it says 700 on the packet but on the computer it says 650!.This is particulaly annoying as i am trying to burn a 690mb file onto a short sized cd. is this my computer being silly or is it my disc?Hyoer:

There likely are 700 MB on the CD, but buringing data to the LAST 50 MB is not always a good idea. Some CD burning software will allow you to burn nearly the full 700 MB, but will give you a warning that the data may become unreadable.

DocVector linux fits on one CD. Don't look at the size, just burn the ISO witht Nero, etc. and all will be fine. I did it last week. Is this a CDRW or a real CDR?have not got nero, and i am trying with deepburner . wil post back with results.




edit:Not expanding into new post am modifying post. so.. here we go!
Deepburner gets to say, 10% or 24% and then says \
WRITER ERROR[ILLEGAL REQUEST[ILLEGAL MODE FOR THIS TRACK]]
and then fails. is there a reason for this?I have not ever used DeepBurner, but are you writing it as an ISO? THat is the key. You can't just copy a few files.yes I am burnoing asx an iso. I slowed down the speed though and it WORKED fine. thankyou for your SUPPORT!I always burn O/S ISO's at 4x and for sure not at 52X, etc.i USE ALCHOHOL 120% to burn ISO's and burn at "maximum" burn speed, and it burns fine, nero is NOT compatable with my DVD burner for some odd reason, its a LITE-ON under the name of some stupid off brand