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I removed the cartridge apparatus from the printer in order to print chemicals using the cartridges into a container of water. The printer is saying there is a carriage jam when I try to "print". I'm guessing it's because the cartridge apparatus is out of the printer, so it isn't moving and sensing the sensor.

Is there anyway I can remove or disable the carriage sensors so I can print without the cartridge apparatus moving inside the printer?How would the printer print without the cartridge not moving?

I'm not trying to actually print on paper. I'm using the cartridge to disperse EXTREMELY small volumes of a mixture into a container of water, so the cartridge can be stationary above the container.

EVERY time I turn on the printer, it says it has a carriage jam, so I was wondering if there was any way I could fool the carriage sensor into thinking the cartridge is moving, or at least find out where said sensor is in the printer.

I tried unplugging the sensor CORD, but it also attaches to a paper feed sensor, so that action results in a paper jam, because it isn't sensing the paper.Quote

I'm not trying to actually print on paper. I'm using the cartridge to disperse extremely small volumes of a mixture into a container of water, so the cartridge can be stationary above the container.

Okay, I went into the Bios. I hope this is the correct info. that your telling me to check. On my drive configuration it had............

Diskette Drive A: 3.5 Inch, 144 MB
Primary Master Drive............Hard Drive
Primary Slave Drive..............Off
Secondary Master Drive.........CD-ROM Device
Secondary Slave Drive...........Unknown Device

IDE Drive UDMA..........ON

Also, Showing when I GO into My computer I also have listed a drive ( F: ) Which says Removable Disk, which I didn't have before I put the new DVD drive in. Unknown device eh? Well at least something is showing up. What kind of DVD burner do you have?
A cheapee Samsung SH-S222L 22X LS. I ordered it from NEWEGG. So far it works fine and it shows up on the ( D: ) drive.Have you checked the jumpers on each drive and cabled them as suggested ? ?

Not a perfect image here but it may help:



NOTE: All drives are different....LOOK for diagrams on the plastic case above the jumper position...Like I said before.....I'm not a whiz....don't make FUN of me but, you are talking about my hard drive to check this....right ? No...both Optical drives...

Thats why i mentioned it wasn't the perfect image...but would help.

And we don't make fun...our job is to help educate.Okay, I'll have to unhook everything again and check this out. Thank you for all your help.CD-ROMS are labeled MS, SL, CS, punched into the metal case above the jumper BLOCK. Not always easy to see, but it's there.Here's a pic of a CD drive jumpered as slave. It should help you figure this out.

On a computer I was working on the black page that tells you what is wrong with the configuration SAID CMOS battery is LOW, and I needed to set the clock. did the clock, it booted back up and worked perfectly for a few hours then had the black SCREEN that said it didn't RECOGNIZE the HDD. Is it possible the battery died and doesn't boot up since that is what the CMOS controls? (I think)
Really getting tired of these 2 computers.
Thank you Yes. Replace the battery.You need to replace the CMOS battery...
PART # CR2032...available anywhere.




Do this with all powe unplugged to the machine.Resolved. Thank you for your advice.No problem...
We love success stories here...

BTW did this solve the other issues you were having with this machine ? ?

I built a system about 5 years ago for my wife's cousin. She recently indicated that the computer kept shutting off. At first I thought that she had picked up a BIG but that was not the case. I did change the pwr supply,hardrive,disconnected all the peripherals and to no avail.I also added extra artic SILVER to the CPU.I GUESS I need to look at the mobo/processor, but there wasn't any indication of overheating. I monitored the CPU fan and it was operating above 2200 rpms. Any help would be appreciated. I forgot to MENTION the specs.

abit NF-M2S
CRUCIAL 2 GB
ATHLON 3800 DUAL CORE
WINDOWS XP PRO X64DLoad and install SpeedFan....post a screenshot of your temps...both at idle and under load.what is happening now is that even when I boot up it shuts off! I can go into the bios all day long and it dosen't shut off. What happens in safe mode?I have been able to go into safemode but it has shutdown in safemode as well.Then I'm with patio - temperature / psu would be my first thought.

Hello, good evening.

I don't really understand the difference of these three RAIDs. I search it in the net but non of the links give the exact answer or direct answer of the differences of the three RAIDs. So I just post here just hoping if someone could enlighten me and explain it briefly the differences of 3 RAIDs.

So, what's the difference between RAID 2, 3, and 4?

Much better if there are examples.

Thanks advance. Your question involves a complicated TOPIC and I believe not many forum members have significant expertise on that subject. But, I can't believe you can't find good info on this via an Internet search. I'll list two references I found:

http://www.ecs.umass.edu/ece/koren/architecture/Raid/basicRAID.html

http://www.acnc.com/raid.htmlQuote

So, what's the difference between RAID 2, 3, and 4?

I can just mix it with 160GB and so on?

Why are we doing his homework ? ?

Your posts guys are very informative. It makes me easy to comprehend.
Last two questions:
1. In RAID 2 and 3, if the parity disk is damage can I still recover the files?
2. In RAID 4, if the ECC disk is damage can I still recover the files?

I installed a new PSU and tried to boot up the computer with the same HDD and now it doesn't recognize it. I have tried everything I can think of. I have switched the ribbons around, the jumpers. I have had to reset the clock . I tried to do a repair with the windows OS disc and it came up with the same problem. It didn't recognize the hdd as being installed. Maybe do a new install altogether?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank youExactly what do you see when you boot?please try to boot with any other usb hard drive changing the boot sequence in BIOS as well. You can run a hard drive test also if your manufacturer provides you to do the same. Anyway, If the issue doesn't resolve with another hard drive then you need to replace the HD. Hi, Is the same machine you were talking about yesterday? When you say it does not recognize the drive what do you MEAN? do you get past the BIOS and splash screen?
can you access any OS even if it is corrupt or damaged?


Yes...it's the same computer. I switch the power supply and it would come on. But when it came on, I got the splash screen and then it goes to a black screen with some system info and then it is saying it is checking system configuration and I get 2 beeps and then it tells me primary IDE is not connected or recognized...then I go into the set up and under configuration it says the HDD is not connected.
I tried to run the OS disc and do a repair then it said the same thing the HDD is not recognized or connected. I am getting ready to do a new install with the OS. My thought was that the maybe the motherboard doesn't have the drivers? it recognizes the cd roms just not the HDD.Hi

okay first thing to do would be to check the cable are not damaged, a trivial TASK with a cable TESTER, an equally trivial but tedious task with a multimeter.

Next check the hardrive works. The way I go about this is using one of those sata/ide to usb converters. I find this is pretty definitve and is such a useful thing to have... If you get one buy one with the small transformer style PSU including for powering the drive.

Sounds like a failed hard drive or trouble with power to it.

For IDE you should not need drivers generally. you do some times for sata.
In either case the BIOS should still detect it even if it can't make use of it for an install.

Finally check no pins have been damaged on either the drive or motherboard,
and on that note I bid you adieu as it is now 11 minutes past 12 and I have to be up in a little over 3 hours.




I reinstalled the os and it is saying there are 2 os's on the hard drive. ???But it recognized the one OS but if you go down to the second OS...it doesn't recognize it. I also have to replace a lot of junk that the motherboard has on it but they don't work ex. video card, audio card, ethernet card......I would also like to get rid of the one that is no good.
Thanks for all of your help !






Quote from: No-one on November 09, 2010, 05:12:10 PM

Hi

okay first thing to do would be to check the cable are not damaged, a trivial task with a cable tester, an equally trivial but tedious task with a multimeter.

Next check the hardrive works. The way I go about this is using one of those sata/ide to usb converters. I find this is pretty definitve and is such a useful thing to have... If you get one buy one with the small transformer style PSU including for powering the drive.

Sounds like a failed hard drive or trouble with power to it.

For IDE you should not need drivers generally. you do some times for sata.
In either case the BIOS should still detect it even if it can't make use of it for an install.

Finally check no pins have been damaged on either the drive or motherboard,
and on that note I bid you adieu as it is now 11 minutes past 12 and I have to be up in a little over 3 hours.

My dad has a TOSHIBA laptop---about 2-3 years old. I took it to Staples/Etech and they said the ONLY thing that failed was the RTC chip. Everything else was fine. They are recommending their HIGHEST price service--which basically REPLACES the entire insides of the laptop....Does this sound right?? Is there no way to fix just that chip?Staples has no IDEA what they are talking about...and their job is to seperate you from the money you have.
The best place to get a qualified opinion is a liscensed /approved service center of the laptop manuf..."techies at Staples" - now there's an oxymoron if I've ever heard one.Sorry, quick daft question. What's wrong with the laptop i.e. Why did you take it to staples?Quote from: GUEST 917 on November 08, 2010, 07:34:33 PM

...they said the ONLY thing that failed was the RTC chip...

RTC (Real Time Clock) chip is powered by the CMOS battery.

Can't you just replace the battery?

Hello every one.
I have some problems with my LAPTOP INSPIRON 1545.My OS is windows 7
Note: I have formated my SYSTEM But also I have these problems.

1)When I connect the cable to the battery , to charge my laptop the computer WORK automatically.

2) when press the keys on my keyboard issue a beep sound.Note I have looked to windows sound.It is not a software problem I think that.

3)VOICE of the fan bothers me.
What is happening on the screen when you here the beep sound? Is the screen all black with a prompt flashing in the corner?
Can you please explain clearer what is happening..

Just over a year ago I CHANGED my computer which had the 6pin port to attach the video lead, and so downloading from my camcorder was fine.
My new computer has the new HDMI port, and I have also added a card which has a S Video and a DVI port.
Unfortunately I cant seem to find any leads that have the DV socket (to fit the camcorder) with either a HDMI / DVI or HDMI end !
Hope this makes sense.
Do I have to buy a new card, or are there any adaptors that would fit the purpose.
I'm running Windows 7.
PaulI'm not an expert, but if you post a pic of the cable coming out of your Camera, the end that GOES into the PC, I might be able to figure something out.

So this Camera is one that you have to play, and then RECORD on your computer, like an old VCR - Camcorder setup?
Its a '1394 6 pin' end (picture on a Google search), and yes its just a panasonic digital camcorder with the dv lead into the camcorder and the 6pin at the other end.
Its the 6 pin that wont fit the computer which is causing the grief.If I remember right 1394 is a firewire port, but correct me if i'm wrong hereHaving done a bit of research just now, yes it is a firewire cable.
Is it possible to get a connector for the HDMI or the DVI port ??Maybe you could by a fire wire card, such as on this List Here but you may find there is a small firewire connector on your motherboard's rear panel or on the computer case somewhere...
Firewire is more like USB than DVI, VGA, HDMI, etc, its used for generic data transfers like file transfers more than a sort of live video feed, and doesn't have to do with GRAPHICS cards. I won't say that black and white definitely but that's what I know. YOU can read the whole WIKIPEDIA article if YOU want Add in PCI firewire cards are not that expensive and will be your best option. Any computer store or on line site will have several to choose from. My computer has a firewire port on the back next the USB ports. I've read several comments that firewire and HDMI are not compatible due to copy protection issues.

My girlfriends daughter dropped her laptop and now the monitor has a little inch size crack in the lower right hand side of the screen. Is there anything that can be DONE ? It functions perfect BUT is a pain in the azz and the poor kid really took care of it.

Any help or suggestions are appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
MP.Quote from: MP1975 on October 31, 2010, 05:20:58 PM

... Is there anything that can be done ?...

...Can it be repaired, replaced, is it costly?...

So I bought this crappy (Second) $250 computer to play WOW and was told it would run without much lag, it does not.
I ran some benchmark test but don't actually KNOW what any of the numbers mean.

I was hoping someone could tell me what I would need to upgrade in order to play World of Warcraft with MINIMAL lag.







ALU
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arithmetic_logic_unit

FPU
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Floating-point_unit

MEM
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_memory

GDI
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graphics_Device_Interface

HDD
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_disk_driveYou almost have the same spec's as i used to when i somehow first played crysis. So i suggest that you upgrade your CPU. And if there is still some lag, you should look at your internet speed. http://speedtest.net/ Cleaning the computer might increase performance if DUST i blocking airfrow of your cpu or graphic's card. Thats all the info i can give you right now.My guess is the "Lag" is not caused by your machine but by a sub-par CONNECTION to your server.

I purchased a 32 GB micro card on eBay a few months ago and come to find out, it was a fake. So, I bought another one and filled it up to about 29GB and it worked fine for a few days then it just stopped working and now the phone I had it in won't recognize it's in there nor will my laptop. The difference being that at least my computer sees that something is there but won't read it i.e. it says drive h: in computer when I put it in but says insert drive when I try to access it. Also, it starts to get extremely hot after a few seconds to a minute. My husband has one as well from the same company, the same brand and has 30GB of stuff on his and hasn't had a problem yet (this has been at least three months ago now). Before anyone says it; yes it is 32GB, I tested it before I put it in my phone (thus the fact that I had 29GB of stuff on it before it went screwy), yes it is in the slot properly or else it wouldn't even say H: drive at all and no, my card reader isn't bad and yes it is compatible with my computer and the card as it is what I used to put the stuff on it originally and it still works fine with my husbands 32GB card and all of my other cards. My computer works fine with his card and it worked fine with mine before it went bad. Now, all of that being said; is there anything that can be done or will I have to just buy a new one?Buy a new one.
Price is now around $65 from on line vendors.

Pardon me, but why do people put 32GB memory into a phone?
That is enough space to store all the phone numbers in the USA!

A few years ago, nothing had 32 GB of anything.
Let alone a phone!
Am I missing something I'm TRYING to avoid spending anymore money as I have already spent well over $300 as it is for the FIRST two if you include shipping. As for why I would need that much memory; first: b/c I can, second: why not, third: I have a phone that I can use as my computer on the go and trust me, I use all the space available. Yes, that's a lot of space that wasn't available to phones a couple of years ago and not even to PC's many years ago, but it is now and like with all things as technology grows so does the use and thus need for said technology. There wasn't cars many years ago, do we not need them now? The list could go on and on about the technological advances that has been made in the last decade or two but how does that prove that it's not needed just because it at one time didn't exist? The EARTH at one time didn't exist, do we not need it? Sorry, I'll step off of my soapbox now. No harm meant but I just want an answer to my problem; I have enough questions of my own!I've bought several things from EBay, they have a lot of stuff you won't find anywhere else, but I'm really leery about buying electronics off EBay. I would much rather pay a little more and buy from sites like Newegg, Amazon, etc. Then if it doesn't work, they will exchange it for one that does.

And besides phone numbers, phones today have photos, music, videos, games and who knows what else.Well, I learn something every day. All the personal stuff I have made in the past few years, including photos, does not come to more that 16GB.
Could you get buy with a 16GB chip? Less money. Less heat. More likely to survive.
San Disk offers a FIVE YEAR warranty. But only to the first retail buyer. So buy from New egg or any of the major retailers. Avoid eBay for anything very serious. Except for vendors you already know.

Read This:
Quote

I recently won an ebay auction with this title "New SANDISK 4GB 4 GB SD SDHC SD-HC Card 4GB G Genuine". The card worked ok for a few days until the pictures turned into garbage. I contacted Sandisk for product support. Bear in mind that the card comes with a 5 years limited warranty. You have to really pay attention to the LIMITED.

The following message is direct quote from Sandisk tech support. "Please note that the terms of SanDisk's warranty policy apply to NEW products only, to the original consumer purchaser who has proof of purchase if requested, and are not transferable between parties.
From a review of your documentation it appears that the purchase of your SD™ Card 4GB was a consumer to consumer purchase, with no indication that the SD™ Card 4GB was NEW in factory sealed packaging. We would, THEREFORE, recommend that you seek service from the individual from whom you made your purchase as he or she may be entitled to warranty support for this product.
Alternatively, you can submit a Proof of Purchase that validates the condition of the product as factory sealed, new and not bulk packaged. "
To many ebayers out there, make sure you buy your product from a retailer not an individual otherwise your product will not be covered under warranty. ..

I have a set of Bose Multimedia speakers: http://www.bose.com/controller?url=/shop_online/digital_music_systems/computer_speakers/companion_2/index.jsp

They have a cable that is RED and white on it (forgive my inexperience with the names of audio cables, I believe this is called RCA?) but the back of my new computer has more up-to-date audio ports.

The ports on my computer (and how they are labeled) are White [Side Spk], Pink [Mic In], Black [Rear Spk], Green [Front] Orange [CTR Bass] and Blue [Line in]

What kind of a cable do I need to get these speakers working with this system?Manual Guide is found on the site. Click on Details/Manuals and its a PDF file. Setting up on computer STARTS on Page 5.1. 3.5MM Stereo MALE to Two RCA Female 6 inch Cable Plug



2. 3.5mm Stereo Plug To DUAL RCA Jack Stereo Adapter




Also:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP/ref=pd_cp_e_2From the pictures in the manual on the webpage that you gave us, you should have the proper connector to connect to your computer. If you still have the original connectors, the two RCA plugs connect on the back of the right speaker. On the end of the wire with those two RCA plugs, there should be the small mini plug that goes to the computer.

HarryAs for the computer part, plugging the small jack into just one port will suffice, probably the lime green one, though my RealTek stuff and its software lets you plug it in anywhere, and use say the 'side speaker' or 'microphone' port as just a stereo speaker port. Meanwhile he hasn't returned...

I jsut installed a new hard drive in my computer and have cloned it and everything works fine except there is a lag in starting programs and some 'right click" menus the old drive had a 16 mb cache the new hard drive has a 32 mb cache is there anything I need to do to get the loading of programs more snappyer? this is why I bought a new harddrive in the first PLACE, the old drive did not do this and I don't understand why this is happining and it is intermittent I have win 7 64 bit home PREMIUM computer would like to add sometimes some programs once they have started they seem to run fine but it is like when I go to load them they lag in starting.If it were me, the new drive would be suspect number one. IMHO you should contact the manufacturer . Once in awhile a few bad ONES go out the door. Before you contact any manufacturers....

Boot to safe MODE. How do things perform there?I think I have this solved myself, I checked the write caching in the device manager and that made a world of difference but thanks for the help ANYWAY!

Are all optical mice defective by nature? The first one I had, connected via USB port to my Compaq Presidio 500, went berserk -- sometimes freezing, sometimes jumping all over the place. I threw it away. (Fortunately, the touchpad still works!) The second one, after a few months, started doing the same thing! It is a Green LEAF 18-8410. Is there a way to repair it, or is it also destined for the trash heap?
The only optical mouse I ever had failed. It was one of those cheap ones with the RETRACTABLE CORDS though.

EDIT: Whoops. I thought you said laser mice for some reason. I actually haven't had any optical mouse fail before I have had an optical mouse for 6 years (2004 to 2010) which ALWAYS worked perfectly (a Genius Webscroll). The only reason I am not using it right now is because a new Microsoft keyboard and (optical) mouse came with my new PC. It is still im daily sue with another PC, and another Genius optical mouse I bought about 6 months later as a gift for somebody is still working fine. I really hate ball mice.

Quote

Are all optical mice defective by nature? The first one I had [...] went berserk. The second one, after a few months, started doing the same thing!

It is a Green Leaf 18-8410

Are all optical mice defective by nature?

Get a good brand. Buy cheap, buy twice, my grandfather used to say!

im daily sue

You have sample

How can I boot my computer from an external USB hard drive?HTTP://www.microsoft.com/whdc/archive/usb-boot.mspxQuote from: Allan on November 01, 2010, 01:46:07 PM

http://www.microsoft.com/whdc/archive/usb-boot.mspx

Our printer is an HP Laser but not sure of the kind , ANYWAY when it starts to print , it will make a horrible clicking sound . What could this be, and how can it be fixed ? We have this printer in a public libary and its getting used daily nonstop , it also will get jams currently .

thanks If I knew your model etc Laserjet 4MV etc, i'd be able to help you better. Not all laserjets are the same to just pin POINT a sound to a specific location. Its most common that a clicking sound is gear teeth jumping or sloppy. If this printer is worth fixing, I would have a maintenance kit performed on it. Most of the time if you are unable to perform this TASK yourself its cheaper to just get a new printer as for a computer shop could CHARGE you close to $200 to fix this if they have labor rates like the ones in my area which are $90 an hour + Parts.HP, Lexmark and other companies produce very low qaulity printers and a very affordable price. This may not be your case, but dealing with REALLY cheap printers in the past has proven to me that they may last up to 2 years or more if your really lucky, and then needs to be thrown away and replaced. This has been my experience. If the printer was one of those hot off the shelf $30.00 deals, it may be time for a new one.

Quote from: BC_Programmer on May 31, 2011, 04:33:06 AM

steve-gibson-is-a-fraud

As for the people that swear by SpinRite, there are lots of people that believe in astrology, but that doesn't make it any more valid.

you can just reformat your hard drive with utilities in your operating system. During this process the hard drive firmware will take care of any bad sector issues.

You seem to imply that formatting will fix any bad sectors. The whole point of the last several posts is that there isn't any magic fix for failing hard drives.

Also, am I the only person who hates the word "reformat". What's wrong with "format"?

No, format is proper. Reformat is a term that would work in data base management system. It is a process to bring improvement to the system by a make-over of some portion of the data base format.

I have a laptop hard drive that crashed and I purchased an external case to plug it in to my desktop so I can pull the files off. When I connected the external w/hard drive it shows that only 30gb are available of 111gb. I TRIED looking into every folder to find my files and I can't LOCATE them. I also clicked to "show hidden files" and still nothing. Can SOMEONE please help me find my files? Thanks. You say your drive crashed and you have used up space that you can't find, sounds like file SYSTEM errors to me. You can use third party software to attempt to recover files in this type of situation. I RECOMMEND getdataback for NTFS.Use file scavenger for secondary option.

Have a goiod day.2 more options piriforms recuva and for the really messed up stuff Handy recovery. YOu have ot pay for the latter but it does seem to do a good job...

You may need to take ownership of those files/folders...

See Here...

Windows XP SP2
Printer: Lexmark T640

This is a computer and a printer for a police department. The previous settings allowed the printer to print as both a network printer and straight from the computer via USB connection. The GREAT Tech guy updated or replaced the previous network server. Now when you hit print, it shows a split second box stating that whatever DOCUMENT is printing, then the box goes away and nothing prints. I cant even tell that the computer is actually communicating with the printer. I attempted installing the computer a second time using only USB, and then I hit print and get an error saying that the document was unable to print, and holds as error printing in the printers cache que. Printing with the original settings does not even load anything into the printers cache, it simply does nothing, not even an error message. I"ve attempted rebooting both, and went through the trobleshooter supplied by both Microsoft and the online Lexmark troubleshooter. Ive attemepted such possibilities as a firewall prohibiting the connection, printing from diferent programs such as notebook or word, and even tried uninstall, reinstall; and stopping and restarting the spooler. Nothing seems to help. I'm pretty sure that the new network has done something since it WORKED prior to updating the network, however I can't see how any network would interfere with a hardwired printer. And guess what, so far Tech guy is clueless. Has ANYONE run into a similar problem, any thoughts. Thanks in advance.OMG, I feel really smart but I really got to give props to the Tech Guy. Finally I see that the USB CORD is plugged into the wrong computer out of three that are next to the monitor. Thanks anyways guys.

can someone please help I don't understand why I can't connect 2 the INTERNET. It shows I'm connected but when I try to go to a website it GIVES me the error message cannot find server or DNS error Internet explored. Can someone please help! Thanxs I have wireless Internet through AT&T. It used 2 give a error message that said invalid ip address I seem 2 have figured. That out now it is giving the error message listed. I don't think it is a DIFFICULT problem, I just am not sure how 2 fix it! I also used my recovery cd . Have a gateway comp model #cx210x. I am new here, so I hope this is the right place for this POST. Please help!!!Go to a CMD window...the black window that looks like DOS and TYPE ipconfig /all and post the screenshot here..

Thanks

hi,

I bought a Canon Pixma MP250 (inexpensive, but that's what we needed at the time as cash was short). It worked well for about two weeks, then I got the 'printer not responding' popup when trying to print. The power light was on, but none of the buttons would get a response. I tried turning it off, but the power light stayed on, so I unplugged it, left it for about 30 minutes then plugged it back in. But at this POINT there was nothing.....it would not come on. Canon sent me a replacement, an 'upgrade' in fact, a pixma mP280. But same thing...after about two weeks it did the same as the 250.

I'm wondering if these printers are just no good, or if it's an electrical issue (I used a different outlet for the second one, but the two outlets are on the same circuit (best I can tell anyway), or perhaps a computer problem.

Any ideas? I need to get another printer, but if it's an electrical or computer issue I don't want to fry another printer, not to mention the cash.

Thanks for any input!!Did you install the appropriate drivers?YES all drivers are installed, but what would that have to do with the fact that the printer will not turn on? A printer should be able to be powered on before installation.....all of mine have anyway.It could well be an electrical problem INSTEAD of a printer problem. I recommend that you use a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) to protect your equipment (computer included). Quote from: Tess24 on November 01, 2010, 08:31:42 AM

Yes all drivers are installed, but what would that have to do with the fact that the printer will not turn on? A printer should be able to be powered on before installation.....all of mine have anyway.

Okay, so I don't know much about computers. I can sorta DRIVE one but that's about all.

I needed a multi-port USB dock(?) cause my Dell laptop only has two and I like to use off-board mouse and keypad. Then there's the printer. Then I have a Toshiba 250 GB harddrive backup to connect now and then. And the connectors are in the rear of the laptop, inconvenient to change plugs.

SO, a buddy gave me a macsense Mini Hub four to one. When I connect the Toshiba a note pops up and says the Toshiba is a high-speed device and the hub isn't. Hmmm. I would have THOUGHT the hub was just four paralled receptacles to one output plug, like a multi-port electric extension cord. ??

Thanks for your help, again. DixieflashHi Dixieflash,

This link may help you. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/835967Thanks, GH. From what I read, this Mini Hub is old school so I need to BUY a faster one. Any suggestions on brand, SUPPLIER? DixieflashMaybe the USB port on your system unit does not have high speed support.

If your Mini Hub is working PROPERLY, no need to buy. Thanks. DixieflahsIf you do buy a new hub, buy a powered hub so it will support more devices (they are not that much more expensive). Some of the unpowered hubs don't deliver enough power to some devices.

I am having a bunch of "Fun" with my 500GB external HD. Several things have happened in the last couple of weeks: 1.The folders changed To cmd shortcuts. (I could type in the folder name after the drive letter without .cmd and it would open the folder with all things intact.) (I posted the problem here and was told that I have a virus. I ran my AV and nothing, as I expected.) 2.I lost the whole drive. When I clicked on the icon for the HD, it came up and told me to format. Well, I knew not to do this. So I ran chkdsk repair and got about HALF of the stuff back. 3.Lost whole drive again! Tried chkdsk and it told me that it would not work with a raw drive. I have tried several disk recovery programs and they do a mediocre job. Mostly GETTING back some avi's without names with them. My biggest question is this: Would it be helpful to pull the drive out of the external case and run it straight to the MB? I have some pretty important ISO file and would love to get them back. Also, what would be the best recovery program out there and is there any way to get just the list of files back if all is gone? It is rather unlikely that removing the HDD from it's case is going to change your problem. It was functioning in the case initially i presume. A more conclusive test would be to run the HDD on another computer and compare the results. By the way while installed AV software can go a long way toward prevention/detection/cure they are NOT infallible and nasties can still be resident on the computer. Which is why if the possibility of infection exists the CH forum devoted to that is much more comprehensive. It will take time and patience if you do go to that forum. You could try this:
http://www.piriform.com/recuva
good LUCK,truenorth
I tried running Linux from the CD on the same machine. The HD showed up as non formatted. Would a completely different machine be any different maybe running XP?I agree with TrueNorth, normally removing the drive from the enclosure and mounting it inside a system won't do much. However I'm thinking there might be a problem with the power supply for the enclosure, if that is the case then removing the drive from the enclosure may get it to work properly.I tried it with Ubuntu on the same machine. I got the same results. Would trying it on a completely different machine help?So you have already removed it from the enclosure and tested it as an INTERNAL drive?
Did you double check the jumper settings when you tried it as an internal drive?No, I just tried running Ubuntu from the CD. I then tried to access the drive.Anyone?

I'm using a Toshiba SATELLITE that's probably 3 years old, and haven't really had any problems with it.

A few months ago, I noticed the "Plugged in, Not charging"

I could usually wiggle the cord around and hit a spot where it would go back to charging. Over the course of about a week, the ability to find a spot where it would charge diminished, and then it wouldn't charge at all. Completely dead, and wouldn't turn on.

I took the laptop apart and cleaned it and made sure nothing was visibly damaged (nothing was) and reassembled it. I plugged it into a universal power supply that i had. Within about a month and a half, it began to do it again. Once again, about a week after i first noticed it, it completely stopped working again.

Before it completely died on me, i did some googling and someone said to uninstall the DRIVER and let it search/reinstall automatically.

I tried this, and it appeared to work for a few hours, but in the end it didn't work.

I'm on my 3rd power supply now with no idea really. Granted, I could take it in to have it worked on or having the battery CHECKED, but i'm rather broke so it's not exactly an option right now, so i'm just looking for any help i can find as to what this is and what could help.


thank you for your help.It is time to quit.
The probability of finding a solution you like is very low.
If your laptop was under warranty, the manufacturer would be obligated to repair it for you.

IMO, the average person should buy a laptop with a 3 year warranty. It is biter to spend MONEY on RELIABILITY rather than on perception.*

* perception = eye candy.

DC power jack repair guideComputer_Commando, nice link.What is the problem though?

and why is it ruining my power supplies?Quote from: omgzzitsash on November 01, 2010, 03:38:38 PM

1. What is the problem though?
2. and why is it ruining my power supplies?

IMO they are not threaded because of the ease of access that a none threaded plug affords. Honestly, id rather have the magnetic power plug design that Mac has for their laptops.

Someone please help me before i go office space on this thing.

ok, so i have a Hp slimline s7520n pc, seemed like a good idea at the time but WHATEVER. For the past two years its just sat in my room broken cause i got a laptop and never felt like fixing it. 2 months ago i decided to fix it. At the time the problem was that it would randomly freeze, shut off, or restart. When i finally opened it up i saw two capacitors were bad so i changed them out with new ones and then my pc ran fine again.

The only thing was my graphics card was GOING, i could tell by my ridiculously SHAKY monitor which is a common problem among s7520ns. So two days ago i swapped it out with an Nvidia GeForce FX 5500 pci card i got off amazon. I got that installed no problem and i decided while i was at it to upgrade to windows 7. I ran the windows 7 update advisor before i did ANYTHING and it said my system was good to go for the update. Then i installed windows 7 and everything was working fine until yesterday i was watching videos online and i heard a weird sound come out of the speakers and then my system restarted itself.

When i tried to sign back into windows the system kept rebooting itself and the 3rd time it rebooted no picture came on and the processor light stopped flashing. Now the picture sporadically comes on and if im lucky enough to have it come on then when i try to login to windows it restarts again. I checked the other capacitors and they're good. I also tried resetting bios which seemed to work allowing me to run the windows boot repair which said it could not repair the problem automatically. I had to restart after that and now the same problems are occurring again

What can i try to fix this? Make sure the mobo is not giving out on you. Having bad capacitors either replaced and running does not mean its stable. Have gone thru changing Graphics card is one. PSU, RAM might get affected next. Standard Tower has better Cooling System(upgradable) than Slimline. Upgrading to Windows 7 on your system seems to be another issue. This site will tell you more on your Upgrading --> http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c00845986&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&product=3199127&key=null&site=nullThanks for the info I looked into it but u believe the problem is HARDWARE related. I took apart the whole pc to check individual parts and I noticed that the 24 pin connector from the power supply to the mobo has a few melted outputs. I'm gonna try to splice in a new one but do you think that's my problem for the random reboots and black screens?Quote from: pinoyrish91 on November 07, 2010, 01:41:10 PM

...I noticed that the 24 pin connector from the power supply to the mobo has a few melted outputs. I'm gonna try to splice in a new one but do you think that's my problem for the random reboots and black screens?

I checked the fryed outputs and they were all red +5 vdc. So I decided to open up the power supply and there are three blown capacitors in it. Would you suggest getting a new power supply or could I just do it the cheap way and replace the blown capacitors and the connector?

So I decided to open up the power supply

Ok, so I had recently RUN into problems with FANS and others not being detected, so I re-fastened them inside, later after checking and updating from Intel's website my desktop board software, everything seemed to go fine at first, PC Wizard 2010 showed the main fans I've been missing (Inlet/outlet fan, CPU fan, Power/Aux fan, etc) and After updating, I restarted my PC. Everything looked fine, but seemingly in the BIOS it claimed the CPU core temp was at 42°C, not bad, right?

Now I'm booted up into Windows 7 just a few minutes later and my temps have skyrocketed, in PC Wizard, temps show 96°C - 112°C, changing intervals from minute-to minute, sometimes showing 78°C, and a few peak times, both MB and CPU temps showing 32°C. So what's true and how can I TELL if my system is really overheating or not? My PC would likely cool down easy after a restart so I don't want to risk losing stats, anyways...

I a few snapshots as proof of these raging temps, jic anyone wanted to VIEW them...



[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]Simple, leave the BIOS hardware monitor up (or wherever else in the BIOS that displays temps) and see if the temps rise. The BIOS will only be wrong if the thermal sensor has malfunctioned/failed.

Hello. It's been a while since my last post. I have a new question that I need to ask. I have been considering purchasing a DeoxIt spray, the DeoxIt D5 contact enhancer. I have been STARTING to have problems with a Super Nintendo Entertainment System's connector, and am beginning to think it has been oxidizing over the years due to being exposed to the air. I am still able to get my games working, but sometimes they fail even when their pin connectors are cleaned. I'm considering buying this, because I read that it works great on electrical contacts. I don't want to throw the system away.

Should I open up the Super Nintendo before using the DeoxIt spray? I was considering using the spray on an old toothbrush and then use the toothbrush to scrub the connector of the Super Nintendo. Do you think this MIGHT alleviate the problem with getting games working? Regular cleaning attempts have been able to get the games working in the system, but it doesn't last more than a number of days or weeks. I also have been considering using it on certain game cartridges. If I do so, should I open up the cartridge first? Or can I use the DeoxIt in CONJUNCTION with my official Nintendo cartridge cleaning kits?Theoretically, it should be ok. As for the method of applying it, I would follow the products DIRECTIONS for application. You should be able to apply it to the cartridges and console without having to disassemble anything, as the contacts should be reachable.

If you have an old cartridge that you don't really care for, I'd test it out on that ONE first.

Hi everyone,

Just recently I have been having an annoyance occur where my computer randomly freezes. So far its only been when I have been on the web. I do play high end games on my system as well but so far no freezing during any of those. I am curious to know what people might think about this and maybe if a certain piece of hardware could be to blame as im doubting it to be a VIRUS. I do complete system scans with about 4 different programs each week. This computer is about 5 years old and the only internals I have changed was the video card and the power supply.

Here are my CURRENT Speed Fan READINGS:
GPU (Nvidia GeForce 26) - 52C
System - 41C
CPU (Intel Core 2 Duo 6700 2.66ghz - 29C
AUX - 75C
Core 0 - 38 C
Core 1 - 37C
CPU0 Fan - 1962 RPM
Aux0 Fan - 2464 RPM

Other Information:
Motherboard - ASUS P5W DH Delux
2 Different Hard drives (1 Vista HOME Basic the other XP)
4 GB DDR2

If I missed any vital information please let me know. Thank you very much for your time.Open task manager to the Processes Tab. Sort on the "cpu" column with highest usage at the top. Next time the system freezes, take a look at which process is eating the cycles.Which browser does freeze?
Did you try a different browser?So far it hasn't happened lately. Do those temps I posted look somewhat normal to you guys?The temps are normal. When you say it 'freezes', do you MEAN you cannot move the keyboard and mouse and the screen is completely stuck with no functionality, or does the hard drive spin a lot and the system just bogs down?

Unplug the computer, take your RAM out, and put it back in making sure it is seated properly.1) Don't touch the ram. You said everything is fine now - leave the system alone.
2) If the system DOES freeze again, first thing to do is follow my instructions above.I've cleaned up the thread, deleting the disagreement (which didn't help anything).

Hi,

I have a couple of questions for you guys and i WOULD appreciate if you can ANSWER me. Is it possible to have two monitors, one on-board and the other one on a pci video card. Is it possible to have two monitors, one on-board and the other one on a pci-e video card. Is it possible to have two monitors, one on-board and the other one on a agp video card.

ThanksNo.
You need a vid card with dual monitor support...
It's one or the other.Quote from: kdxman on January 20, 2011, 02:16:02 PM

Hi,

I have a couple of questions for you guys and i would appreciate if you can answer me. Is it possible to have two monitors, one on-board and the other one on a pci video card. Is it possible to have two monitors, one on-board and the other one on a pci-e video card. Is it possible to have two monitors, one on-board and the other one on a agp video card.

Thanks

Ok, will try.

thank you

PC will not power up after power has been disconnected and then reconnected for several minutes and sometimes an HOUR or more, same thing if switch on power supply turned off. After power up PC works normal as long as power is not disconnected or switch on power supply not turned off. (no delay with green LIGHT on MB coming on when connecting power cord)

Asus P4P800 SE motherboard, replaced 3gh cpu with 2.6gh, Coolmax model AP-450X(V-400) power supply. PERSONALLY I've never had that exact problem before but it's probably due to a faulty or failing power supply. I bet that if you were to try another you wouldn't have the problem.Quote from: Accessless on November 09, 2010, 07:57:08 AM

Personally I've never had that exact problem before but it's probably due to a faulty or failing power supply. I bet that if you were to try another you wouldn't have the problem.

I've been scratching my head on this one. Maybe you can help me out?

I'm looking to utilize the keyboard shortcuts to access different areas of specific websites. Without boring you with the details, I'm essentially wanting to change the F1-F12 keys to the corresponding area of the website. For EXAMPLE, F1 would bring up the CONTACT section of the webpage, F2 the ABOUT ME section, etc. How would I customize the F1-F12 keys? Any way of supplying the actually LINK to these keyboard keys? Side note: I've also noticed on alot of keyboards there are keys on the left or right that can bring up your email, browser, etc. This would be absolutely wonderful if I COULD funnel these ideas onto one site. I'm also looking for detailed schematics for keyboards with these optional shortcut keysI'd START with keyboard mapping...
However there are 3rd party apps that will do what you want if you don't wanna do it manually.Alright I'll look into it

I have a PIXMA 1200 printer which won't accept Canon PG40 ink cartridges. I am using the printer for CARTRIDGE testing and using genuine cartridges NOT remanufactured ones. This seems to be a common problem with this printer and i never have an issue with the CL41 colour cartridges. Has anyone else ever had this problem and if so how did you FIX it?Then why not just used the secondary cartridge that WORKS with your PIXMA against the branded/original which is troubling you?
http://en.kioskea.net/guide/709097554-various-compatible-canon-pg-40-black-printer-ink-cartridge-for-use-with-pixma-ip1600-ip2200-mp150-mp170-mp450-ip1200-ip1300-ip1700-mp160-mp180-mp460-mp210-mp470-mp220-mx300-mx310-ip1900-ip1900-ip2600-mp140

I bought an external HD, but I'm not sure how to WORK with it in Linux (Ubuntu 10.10)
Is there a straightforward easy way to explain what to do?

I have plugged it in and it's recognized.
I put a small testfile on it, but can't put a large folder on there because there's only 1 MB free it says - the device is 1 TB though.
Do I simply delete the .EXE file and other (cryptically named) folders and then follow some sort of format procedure? No, the drive is not usable until you get Linux to see it as a 1TB drive.
Have you already saw this on ubuntu forums?
http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1632887It needs to be formatted before any OS will recognise it...http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/17001/how-to-format-a-usb-drive-in-ubuntu-using-gparted/Quote from: Geek-9pm on January 21, 2011, 05:29:27 PM

No, the drive is not usable until you get Linux to see it as a 1TB drive.
Have you already saw this on ubuntu forums?
http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1632887

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/17001/how-to-format-a-usb-drive-in-ubuntu-using-gparted/

I'm building my first gaming desktop, and since I don't know too much about computers or their components, I don't really know if the parts I picked would actually work with each other, like if its compatible with AMD and whatever.

HERES what I've picked so far:
CASE:
AZZA Hurrican 2000 CSAZ-2000 Black SECC Japanese Steel ATX Full Tower Computer Case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811517010

HARDDRIVE:
HITACHI Deskstar 7K1000.C HDS721010CLA332 (0F10383) 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822145304

MOTHERBOARD:
ASRock 890GX PRO3 AM3 AMD 890GX HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157244

GRAPHIC CARD:
MSI N570GTX Twin Frozr II OC GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127564

POWER SUPPLY:
COOLER MASTER Silent Pro RS850-AMBAJ3-US 850W ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V v2.92 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817171048

RAM/MEMORY:
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231314

PROCESSOR:
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition Thuban 3.2GHz 6 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 125W Six-Core Desktop Processor HDT90ZFBGRBOX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103849

OPERATING SYSTEM:
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit 1-Pack - OEM

ADDITIONAL COOLING:
CORSAIR CWCH60 Hydro Series H60 High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181015

QUESTIONS:

1) With the selected components, would they work together? Is everything compatible with each other? Would my motherboard work with an AMD processor?

2) Would this gaming desktop be able to run today's games in the highest settings? I'm talking about Crysis 2, Bad Company 2 and the Witcher 2

3) Would I be able to cross fire? Does my motherboard and the other parts allow it? And would you recommend me to crossfire the graphics card I have now with a duplicate or another one, or is that one card enough to get me by for now?

4) Ive read somewhere that the fans that come with the motherboard are standard fans and are actually kinda crap. My emphasis on this desktop is cooling, as I cannot afford to overheat yet another desktop, therefore how would I be able to replace it? And the fan I linked above, is that the kind of fan I just place on my case as an additional fan?

5) I would be able to upgrade individual parts later on right?

Thanks! I desperately need help as I'm so lost:(


PS

I know I've posted this before in a less constructed format, ignore that one please.Please dont take this the wrong way....BUT... The Concern i have is if you have the technical expertise to build this computer and have it operate correctly in the end without spending hundreds or thousands of dollars and ending up with a large paper weight in the end.

If you have a friend or someone you know who has worked on computers before and has been successful in doing so, i would consult with them to build your computer with them to physically assist you in the build.

We all started at one time not knowing what we were doing. Some of us had friends or someone to show us how to properly build it. And us others have learned by trial and error, where error can be costly if its not mixed free guts from donor systems. ( My learning was by trial and error building frankenstein systems out of dead donors, since back in 1989 most, along with myself, couldnt afford a $3000 computer. So my first was an 8088XT 4.77Mhz 640k Ram and CGA color display...was able to upgrade the one working box from 512k Ram to 640k, by use of flat head screw driver and adding 4k or 16k Ram chips. This was achieved with mixed guts from a business that was throwing the dead boxes away since they were upgrading to 286 or 386's. My failure with this first ever build of guts was only the dip switch settings fortunately, so once I got the correct dip switches set up for correct Ram count etc, I was then able to install DOS on its 10MB Hard Drive.)

I havent looked into how much all the parts will cost you, but most manufacturers do not warranty for customer errors like smoked or damaged parts. This is something to think about.

As far as pairing up CPU with Motherboard etc, you should print out the specs of each part and make sure that they are compatible with each other. Also do research on google etc and look to see if there are complaints for hardware etc, which might give insight to a defect before buying into the hardware. Some sites even have star ratings that will show almost a consumer reports aspect of the specific motherboards and components.

I have learned NOT to buy something when it first comes out and be a QUALITY tester for others at the expense of my own wallet , not to buy into any hardware blindly without research into if its good or bad, and whenever in doubt with building computers and its your first time, its best to assess the risk of being out so much money if you burn something up because you didnt have hands on help.

I fix computers on the side and I have had to tell customers who Epic Failed on new gaming computer rigs, what they did wrong, and that Core i7 is now smoked along with motherboard and Ram, and sorry you are out that much money, you cant put the magic smoke back inside once released at the cost of over $1000. This failure was caused by a loose hard drive that the user failed to screw in correctly. The drive slid out of the 3.5" HD bay and the aluminum HD body shorted across a Ram stick, and motherboard sending 12V onto the 5V side. And when removing the heatsink the Core i7 was roasted as well. Felt really bad telling that 15 year old who was in tears that there is no hope for the guts that he smoked, as well as the Parent who thinks that your a Computer Guru who can fix all... And you cant fix smoked!!!Hey thanks for your concern.

I've got a friend who built/builds computers and he'll be helping me physically assemble the computer together, and after doing some research, the components I've picked are compatible with each other, however I've got a question regarding overclocking.

What components can I overclock? From my understanding, overclocking is basically straining the component to perform better then its default settings, and I know that you can overclock the graphics card, but wouldn't that cause overheating? I'll be overclocking whatever components that can be overclocked and I'm curious as to will the fans provided in the case I've picked and the additional cooling fan I've picked be enough to sustain overclocking the graphics card whilst keeping the overall temperature to a minimum? Unless you really need to overclock, I would run the guts native speeds. Overclocking can lead to troubles if not managed correctly.

Biggest problems are Heat, Voltage Levels, and Timing

If you can keep the heat down with liquid cooling etc, keep good voltage levels without straining the power supply, and keep the motherboard and all of its components correctly timed without glitches your good to go.

You will want to check to see if the motherboard supports overclocking as for some dont. You will want to make sure that the Ram will take it as well. And some CPU's can be unlocked while others can not. You generally have to pay more for the ones that are unlocked.

Good to hear you have someone who can help you build this successfully.My main purpose is to game, and I'm not a huge fanatic about individual computer parts, so I'm guessing overclocking for me won't be necessary?You should be all set running native clock speeds. For gaming you will want 2 cores minimum, a good video card, and power supply that can handle the needs of the system which will be around a 500 watt power supply. When it comes to computers its ok to have a higher wattage power supply, because the system will only use what it needs from what is available. So for power supplies its allways better to have more wattage than needed than too little for the load demand.Quote from: DaveLembke on May 29, 2011, 08:29:50 PM

Unless you really need to overclock, I would run the guts native speeds. Overclocking can lead to troubles if not managed correctly.

regarding crossfire/sli, im guessing my motherboard supports dual cards but one is a x 16 and the others x 4 so the other cards has to be substantially lower ( in terms of performance ) than the other right?

hey guys
I just wanted to ask why is my graphic CARD so loud??
Ive googled it and everithing.... no luck

Ive got a RADEON HD 4870 Iceq 4 turbo

wich is supposed to be
"faster" "cooler" "quieter"
exept is not cooler or quieter...
Ive installed cataclyst control center (CCC) and found out Ive got the AMD overdrive on... I set the gpu and memory clock settings to minimum (770gpu, 500 memory) and it worked a little bit, but is STILL reaaalllllllllyyy hot.... 74*C, fan 61% (idle)...
tried to turn it off but then got like 80c + and 99% fan.
from what I found out thats way to high spetialy for idle... any help is welcome


:love: thx guys :love:

(btw english is not my first language so sorry)You could try removing the fan & heat sink and applying thermal paste or replace the heatsink & fan altogether with THIRD party ones.

Personally though I would just TAKE it back to the shop and tell them that it didn't do what it said on the tin.

Hello, I need a little help.

I have 2x2GB DDR3 1600Mhz and i am trying to get them to run at 1600Mhz but they will only run on 800Mhz. When i go into my bios and set them to anything above 800Mhz (1066, 1333 or 1600Mhz), Windows will crash on the loading screen. Is there something else i should be doing or some other bios setting i need to configure? Not SURE what specs i should give but here is the main 4.

OS: Vista Ultimate (32Bit)
MoBo: MSI 785GM-E51 (MS-7596)
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition
RAM: 2x2GB Micron Tech. PC3-12800 DDR3 SDRAM UDIMM

Any and all help is very much appreciated.See Here for some suggested settings from OCZ...

Seems lots of others have the same issues...


BTW that board only goes up to 1333Mhz....could be why it's not working.Quote

Windows will crash on the loading screen.

A COMPUTER came in that would shut down and reboot whenever a CD was put in the drive. FUN times! It even did it with the IDE cable unplugged. It worked with a test unit THOUGH. It must've been something in the motor of the CD drive that caused some sort of surge in the power supply. Anyone have that happen to them before?Surge or sag in the +12VDC supply rail (ATX spec: 11.4VDC to 12.6VDC).Would you also recommend a power supply replacement?No. Seems like PSU and/or motherboard are doing exactly as they were designed to do. Replace the CD drive.I've done that already, but thank you for the advice. I was just wondering if it was possible if the power supply was also compromised by the drive error and you have answered my QUESTION.

Hello
My DELL demension 310 desktop won't boot. It keeps BEEPING when I turn it on. I keep hitting the F' buttoms to get it to go into a safe MODE but it won't do anything other then beep. I also hit the F-12 button but still nothing. Praying its not the hard DRIVE that has gone out on me.
Please help.
ThanksIs there anything on the screen?
Tell us about the beeps. How many, or is it constant?
What led up to this?Beeps ussually mean SOMETHING to do with failing the POST or power on self test. This can be for a number of reasons...
Like Allan asks "Is there anything on the screen?
Tell us about the beeps. How many, or is it constant?"


Quote from: No-one on November 08, 2010, 02:53:10 PM

Beeps ussually mean something to do with failing the POST or power on self test. This can be for a number of reasons...
Like Allan asks "Is there anything on the screen?
Tell us about the beeps. How many, or is it constant?"

Hey I have an Acer Aspire M3641 with Windows Vista HOME Premium. It has an E7200 INTEL Core 2 Duo Processor, 4 GB DDR2 Memory, 500 GB SATA Hitachi hard drive, 14 in 1 card reader. Before my computer messed up I had norton 360 and deepfreeze. I had a habit of downloading stuff to see if it would work on my computer and it didn't so I would just TURN it off and it went away. I think that had a lot to do with it failing. When I tried to reinstall windows vista on the hard drive it said type mismatch. I downloaded this Drive Fitness Test from the Hitachi website and did an advanced test on the hard drive it said I had a corrupted boot sector, so I completely erased the hard drive and tried to put the operating system on it and still don't work. I have tried to put another hard drive in it that I know works and put the operating system on it and the computer just shuts off or goes to the blue screen of death. I have tried to put windows xp on it when it gets about halfway through with the installation it goes to the blue screen of death. Also one night I started to disconnect all the wires that went to the 14 in 1 card reader from the mother board to see if maybe their was SOMETHING with that and it still does the same THING now I cant remember where all the wires go. I am starting to think their is nothing wrong with the hard drives but I don't know for sure.I figured it out i removed everything that was not necessary from the motherboard including my battery and c-mos jumper and I was able to put an operating system on it.Thank you for sharing that with us.

I was putting a friends power supply from his computer into an extra pc of mine that I had to used the power supply on another pc. I thought it was simple enough to do since I had done this before with no ISSUES. Now when I turn the computer on none of the drives work. If I unplug the cables from either the cd rom or the hard drive they start running. But no data can go through. I just had this computer running 5 days AGO with it's own power supply. I am out of ideas and answers.
Thank you
Amy C. Hi Amy C,

Okay most likley it sounds like the power supply may just not have enough juice to run what you need. What watt power supply is it and what are the specs of the computer?
Try diconnecting JUST the CD drive from both power and the computer and see if it boots.

Hope this helps,The computers are not here so I don't have any specs. I know the one I had is a Dell and I think it was a 2400. The other is a Gateway and it isn't as upgraded. The CPU was a 1.3 . The power supply had a fan on the side. The one off of the Dell didn't. I had just the HDD plugged in and it still didn't boot. No beeps or anything.
Thank you!!Okay just a bit confused so easist thing I can do to get is a true or false quiz. Apologies if it seems rude in any way but I am a mathematician and we strongly dislike ambiguity.

1) When everything is connected nothing turns on not even fans.
2) when you disconnect either the hardrive OR the Cd Drive it runs.
3) If either are connected it does not run.
4) if the CD or HD is connected to the mainboard it boots as long as there is no power to one device.
5) you have access to the computer to attempt fixes tonight.
6) It boots if no drives whatsoever are connected.
7) the hardrive is connected using SATA.
Both computers worked before they became PSU donors.

Ithink that should help me get a better idea but I may go again if I need more info...

just answer for example 1) T
2)F etc.
Quote from: No-one on November 08, 2010, 02:36:51 PM

Okay just a bit confused so easist thing I can do to get is a true or false quiz. Apologies if it seems rude in any way but I am a mathematician and we strongly dislike ambiguity.

1) When everything is connected nothing turns on not even fans.
2) when you disconnect either the hardrive OR the Cd Drive it runs.
3) If either are connected it does not run.
4) if the CD or HD is connected to the mainboard it boots as long as there is no power to one device.
5) you have access to the computer to attempt fixes tonight.
6) It boots if no drives whatsoever are connected.
7) the hardrive is connected using SATA.
Both computers worked before they became PSU donors.

Ithink that should help me get a better idea but I may go again if I need more info...

just answer for example 1) T
2)F etc.

OKay need to clarify boot up...
same as before

1) When everything is connected machine turns on and BIOS is available
2) When 1 or the other is connected computer turns on but I get a blank screen
3) both CD and Hardrive are on the same IDE cable.

Thanks...

I had 2 video cards installed in my computer 2 YEARS ago to HANDLE 3 monitors. recently one video card went bad causing the computer to SHUT down sometimes. I had removed both v cards to bring the computer back to DEFAULT state but no good. What should I do to fix this problem myself?Have you tried one card at a time? How do you KNOW one 'went bad'?

Hallo
i have problem with my laptop dell latitude.
i want to instal the windows but the laptop not recognize any hard disk
than i try to instal via extern harddisk during the installation COMES with a blue screen message like these.

A problem has been detected and windows had been shut down to prevent damage to you computer. If this is the firste time you've seen this stop error screen, restart your computer. If this screen appears again follow these steps:
Check to make sure any new hardware or software is properly installed. If this a new installation , aks your hardware or software manufacturer.
If problems continue, disable or remove any NEWLY installed hardware or software. Disable BIOS MEMORY option such as caching or shadowing. If you need to safe mode to remove or disbale componets, restart your computer. Press F8 to select advanced start up options, and then select Safe Mode.

Technical Information.
*** STOP: 0x0000C1F5 (0x00000000, 0x00000000, 0x00000000, 0x00000000

some one any idea
thanks Let's start at the beginning. Why are you doing this install?becuse the laptop dont recognize hdd i tried two hdd but the massage is

Primary hard disk drive 0 not found
no bootable divices--strike F1 to retry boot, F2 for setup utility.
thats all

I'm sorry, but you need to start at the beginning. At some point the system worked, didn't it? What happened?When I BOUGHT the man has taken out the hdd
after that i tried to instal the windows with new hard diskNot clear on this ...Just asking here - no solution. Is this a BIOS SETTING problem in the boot sequence that the former owner set wrong? Is there a way to re-set the laptop BIOS to default like with a desktop via removing the battery?i removed the battery same problemI assume your referring to the power supply battery the PC uses to run. I'm basically asking if a notebook has a battery that powers the BIOS memory that would be separate from the PC power supply battery, I don't know? I know that, in most applications anyway, removing this battery on a desktop will reset the BIOS settings to a pre-determined factory setting, therefore setting the hard drive start settings to default.
I wish I could be more help but... thanks for replying
the problem is dell has a bad system the battry is welded on the motherboard it can not removeThis problem, when analyzed, essentially resolves to our old familiar friend "How can I reset the CMOS on a laptop that I bought from some guy?", and if the laptop has a locked BIOS, the answer, surely, must be "If you have proof of legal ownership, take it to a Dell agent, if you don't have proof of legal ownership you bought a brick".

the BIOS is not locked even is locked i have the master password.
but its somthing els
its just not recognize the HDDQuote from: danial on January 22, 2011, 05:44:50 AM

the BIOS is not locked even is locked i have the master password.
but its somthing els
its just not recognize the HDD

I've GOT a Partition which appears as RAW on my RAID partition, where there used to be a Windows installation until I did IDK what upon installing some other hardware.

The 100 MB 'system reserved' partition on these drives is still accessible, which seems to preclude a cable connection error (which I originally suspected, since I am using IDE to Sata Adapters...)

The partition seems inaccessible.

To me I have few options:
Format a New Partition, Risking Data loss, and perhaps without even getting a new partiton
- Then Use File Recovery Software

- Other software
RAID 0 or RAID 1?WHOOPS....
0.
Not sure if it matters in this case or not - just wanted to point out again that there is a functioning partition on the same 'R'AID. http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk

might be able to get it backThanks, this seems like a good program - lots to go through and try. If nothing works on my own, I'm going to throw together a nice post with Screenshots of what tried and my drives setup, maybe even grab a pic of my raid array in BIOS and rl, for clarity, so everyone can see my terrible case (but hey its cost me $0 over 7 years so...)RAID 0 is generally not recoverable, since the data is split among 2 drives. From the title, the "lost" partition does not apear to be the boot partition, so Windows still functions. Why would you use RAID 0 for anything? RAID 1 would be a much better choice.RAID 0 Provides a significant performance boost (and these are older 250 GB drives), and you can mitigate the RISK by backing up, or if you have the money (unlike me) by using RAID 10.
Like usual, I 'didn't back up' - I backed up a lot of stuff, and there's some stuff on their that I care to recover but I could live without, and also I'd like my OS files to be on they - they ALREADY are - for boot times. Most of the Data on the drives is non-unique files which can be re-downloaded and re-installed as needed, but that is a pain.

Like I said before, the RAID seems to be intact and its just the MBR or something that is broken. The drives are on the same Raid Chip, same physical piece of hardware and the same setup AFAIK as before the error occurred. I am continuing to explore using TestDisk.

Oh to Clarify, Windows is *NOT* booting, per se. I am currently running a backup installation in the same machine.
Symptoms of the WIndows Installation on the RAID parition:
Boots, Gets to the Loading art, crashes a while later, longer than it used to take to Boot.
I'll get the Safe Mode info later, if the problem is not yet resolved.
I would test the bad hard drive with the manufacturer's diagnostic software: http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287
You can only hope there's a bad sector & it will identify & relocate it to the hidden spare sectors.Update: I have successfully recovered FILES off of the partition - using TestDisk's photorec_win.exe - so the data is intact.
I've found an intact file, music, FULLY audible, 9 MB in size. A file this size should rule out damage to the RAID as it is much larger than the stripe size, am I right?

Also, I don't think the above postreally applies - *no bad drive, manufacturer is Western Digital for Both Drives, Gigabyte makes the mobo, not sure about the raid controller chip specifically - an AMD subsidiary?
Nonetheless thanks for the help.To reiterate, the files and data in general are intact on the RAID, and I can restore them - without proper filenames in most cases - using PhotoRec, but the file system is broken or gone. CGSecurity might have forums for where I can plead my specific case, but if anyone is really handy with it, even generally knowledgeable about Data recovery, go ahead and advise me right here.

sir I'm a student of bcs i have a problem that my computer shutdown automatically, i have install many time window but still this problem, Plz help me i will be Veri thankfull Download install and run SpeedFan....it's probably overheating.
Post your temps and PC info here....Quote from: ilovepc on November 03, 2010, 11:13:56 PM

just consult.. a computer technicians .,
if you don't know how to fix your problem..,

This, people, is pure art. [...] an unintelligible collage of various unrelated bits of abstract.

It is junk text, one of seven posts today, by a (clearly) non-native-English speaker, to "justify" the act of posting, whose real purpose is the (mangled, non working) spam link in the signature. As I am sure you noticed.

Hey guys well i got a new computer and its not working very well to say the least. been getting bsod alot and memory errors been in contact with the guy alot and im getting a new motherboard. but i wanted to see that you guys think. this is what it came down to

ok so i have everything running as of now. don't know for how long but this is what HAPPENED. the motherboard and 2 dimm slots and 4 slots for ram as you know. closest to the motherboard is a1black a2 Blue b1 Black b2 Blue. so when you sent the computer you had the ram in a2 and b2. once i got the computer BACK up it was only registering that i had ram in b2. i don't know if i have to change the voltage or anything for it to reconise the other slots so i took out the ram in b2 and left the one in a2 and it gave the beeps saying there was no ram. so i put it just in b2 and it worked fine. then i put the ram in a1 and b1 black slots like the manual said you could do and it didn't start like before. so i put the ram in a1 and b2 and it only read the ram in b2. so i put both in the dimm b1 and b2 the manual said that you shouldn't have both in a dim when you only have 2 sticks but its registering all 4 GIGS for now. i dont know if this is make the ram run slower or cause FUTURE problems. but i think the whole problem all along as maybe a bad ram slot on the motherboard.


thats what i sent to him. now these are some picture are of the bluescreen
http://i54.tinypic.com/1175lad.jpg
http://i52.tinypic.com/4qrdx2.jpg
http://i52.tinypic.com/20a494k.jpg
http://i56.tinypic.com/4ufe2s.jpg


let me know what you guys think
Quote from: Colty on January 21, 2011, 09:23:34 PM

Hey guys well i got a new computer and its not working very well to say the least. been getting bsod alot and memory errors been in contact with the guy alot and im getting a new motherboard. but i wanted to see that you guys think. this is what it came down to

ok so i have everything running as of now. don't know for how long but this is what happened. the motherboard and 2 dimm slots and 4 slots for ram as you know. closest to the motherboard is a1black a2 Blue b1 Black b2 Blue. so when you sent the computer you had the ram in a2 and b2. once i got the computer back up it was only registering that i had ram in b2. i don't know if i have to change the voltage or anything for it to reconise the other slots so i took out the ram in b2 and left the one in a2 and it gave the beeps saying there was no ram. so i put it just in b2 and it worked fine. then i put the ram in a1 and b1 black slots like the manual said you could do and it didn't start like before. so i put the ram in a1 and b2 and it only read the ram in b2. so i put both in the dimm b1 and b2 the manual said that you shouldn't have both in a dim when you only have 2 sticks but its registering all 4 gigs for now. i dont know if this is make the ram run slower or cause future problems. but i think the whole problem all along as maybe a bad ram slot on the motherboard. let me know what you guys think

Hey guys! Well I got a new computer and it's not working very well to say the least. I've been getting BSOD a lot and memory errors, I've been in contact with the guy who sold it to me and I'm getting a new motherboard. But I wanted to see what you guys think. This is what it came down to:

Ok, so I have everything running as of now. I don't know for how long but this is what happened.

I have 2 DIMMs and the motherboard has a total of 4 slots for RAM. In order from the closest slot from the CPU is slot:
A1 (black), A2 (Blue), B1 (Black), B2 (Blue).

When the computer was sent to me it had the RAM modules in slots A2 and B2.
Once I got the computer working it was only registering that I had RAM in slot B2, I don't know if I have to change the voltage or anything for it to recognise the other slots. So I took out the RAM in slot B2 and left the one in slot A2, it gave beeps indicating that there was no RAM. So I just put it in slot B2 and it worked fine.

I then tried the RAM in slots A1 & B1 like the manual said you could do, but the computer didn't start like before. So I put the RAM in slots A1 & B2 but it only recognised the RAM in slot B2. So I put both in slots B1 & B2, the manual said that you shouldn't have both DIMMs in when you only have 2 sticks but its registering all 4 gigs for now. I don't know if this will make the RAM run slower or cause future problems but I think this was the whole problem all along as maybe there was a bad RAM slot on the motherboard.

Hi, New to the forums and it always nice to meet new people so that the first thing I have had to smile about in a while so .

A while back (read a over a year) my motherboard (an Asus L1N64) P2 power connector went. After a massive battle trying to RMA it, I finally got the motherboard the other week. I finally managed to find enough time tonight to try and set about reinstating it. Having backed up all my files I began to dismantle the computer I had cobbled together and used for the past year in order to use some of the parts ie case, PSU and hard drive.

To my dismay I manage to get the computer to power on but I have absolutely no display.

Now knowing that the graphics cards work, and that my power supply is fine is there any other reason I should get know display (not even bios) on start up other than the motherboard?

I mean is been a really, really **** year amongst other things with most of my spare time chasing various departments in Asus and creative computing and I can not express at how much trying to get this issue resolved is actually destroying me.

Any ideas will be hugely welcomed.

Thanks,


Sorry some extra info (I didn't read the Read Me).

The system consist of 2x 9600gt XFX graphics cards
2X's fx-74's AMD
Asus l1n64 MB
Misc. sata hd's
900W OCZ PSU
4 GB DDR2 Patriot

I think that is every thing that matters.

Obviously, LCD works (tested on my beat up Dell laptop rescued from a skip (I know this is irrelevant but I am so proud of it even if do over heat every 45min)).

I can not easily test the RAM but I would have thought the onboard RAM would still allow me to see the startup/ splash screen.

I know the cards work, can not be 100% SURE on the RAM or CPU but I am fairly sure that they are okay.

I hope I have been a deliquent and missed something rather than have to go back to the *censored* that is ASUS RMA procedure.

Thanks

BenQuote from: No-one on November 06, 2010, 05:52:00 PM

...my motherboard (an Asus L1N64) P2 power connector went...

...For some reason the CPU2 connector (power )got scorched, and seemed to fry the board.. The board has subsequentally been replaced...

...Any other ideas?...

...However none of my graphics cards seem to work now...
Thanks for your help and if any ideas that would be great...

1. none of my cards (incl. a cheap ATI card) are working on either board. despite 1 been taken of my working rig.
now none seem to work...
2. I am going to purchase a power supply tester just to double check all the power and then I can eliminate that. then I will try and see if I can get any of the graphics to work on a completley different machine....
...