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my computer was dirty so i unpluged ittook it outside and blew the dust out of it. I put it back together and now it shuts it's self do in NORMAL mode after at the most 10 mins.Lets start with how you removed the dust.

Details are important.with an air compressor dialed down real low, and just blew off the BOARD, fans, video card, and case then i let it set for about 4 hrs. before reconnecting and start upFirst thing to do is make SURE you didn't jar anything loose inside the system. Open it up and make sure all CARDS are firmly seated and all connections are tight.

Also, was this just a regular cleaning of the pc or was there a PROBLEM that caused you to clean it?

I have been experiencing some flashing text under my icons on the desktop and the edges of open windows JIGGLE a little too.

I have updated my drivers and the problem persists. Is this a bad video card? Resolution 1280X1024 at 60Hz.

The flickering comes and goes but is mostly in bad condition.

I knd of reminds me of a flourescent lamp flicker but does not have an overall affect on the rest of the monitor so I don't think it is the display lamps.


It looks like a ripple through some of the open windows, especially if they are light colored.
All Help will be appreciated.Well the 2 possibilities are the monitor...or the card itself...
Try another monitor to rule that out.How does it look in safe mode?QUOTE from: dspearing on May 30, 2011, 04:14:46 PM

...I knd of reminds me of a flourescent lamp flicker but does not have an overall affect on the rest of the monitor so I don't think it is the display lamps.

It looks like a ripple through some of the open windows, especially if they are light colored....

It is at its native resolution and it never flickered at all in safe mode.

It is at its native resolution and it never flickered at all in safe mode.

Hi,
I use an old-2002-Gateway 500XLS pentium 4 computer, 3.06 MHz, 1 GB RAM with WD harddrives 20 & 40 GB. The SYSTEM drive is a WD WDC WD400. I also have a Maxtor 40 GB drive as a back up system drive. OS is Windows XP Pro 2002 SP3.

The WD 40 GB drive is noisy (tapping) and sometimes won't load. I tried the Maxtor backup & it did the same thing. Please don't tell me that both drives went bad at the same time. The noise is worst when I am playing games (Diablo II or MORROWIND) & infrequent when I am on the internet. Frequently, when the computer won't load XP, the drives won't show up in BIOS.
I downloaded newer drivers from INTEL for the IDE/ATA controller and loaded them (I think, Windows still says the drivers are from Microsoft). The computer seems to run OK for a while then the drive gets noisy. Most times I shut off the power to get windows to shut down.
It is tempting to reload Windows, but the Microsoft website says that a noisy, slow drive is a reason NOT to reload windows XP???
Oh yeah, I BOUGHT the computer used as an upgrade from my older Dell P-3
Thanks for comments or helpI suggest you go to the WD website, download their diagnostic utility, burn it to cd and run it. Quote from: blithe spirits on May 30, 2011, 01:46:07 PM

Please don't tell me that both drives went bad at the same time.

After My boyfriend put MAGIC disc On my computer and ever since then I can not burn or play disks. My D drive used to show up as cd/dvd under my computer now is says DVD-RAM. Under the properties for the DVD-RAM drive D under the Hardware tab it lists 2 drives WDC WD1600BEVS-60RSTO that is a disk drive then it lists TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-L632N which I know is my cdrom drive. It says that the device is WORKING properly But it says the location is 0. In the device manager its lists the drive with no problems. I tried to roll back drivers and uninstall the drive and nothing.I have uninstalled all the vutiral drives but it still says DVD-RAM. nothing I have tried has worked. Please help!

Hp pavillion dv6704nr
AMD athlon(tm) 64x2
Dual core TK-57
1.90 ghz
1.93 gb of ram
Thanks!Look under Disk Management; I suspect you have to assign the real drive a Drive Letter. Right-click My Computer, select Manage, select Disk Mgmt. Right-click drive in lower right panel (probably CD-ROM 0), select Change Drive Letter.I have tried that. All that does is change the DVD-RAM drive. It like my computer thinks my cd/dvd (TSSTcorp CDDVDW TS-L632N) is a DVD-RAM. I can usually solve my computer problems with searching Google. but have not been able to come across what I am EXPERIENCING.. I cant not think of anything else I could do.Have you tried uninstalling Magicdisc? If yes, then how?First I disabled all Magic drives then I used Revo uninstaller pro to uninstall the program. I Just now went to look in Disk management and my CD/DVD drive is Not there it is in the removable storage drop-down in the libraries folder. Under Disk Management it SHOWS CD-ROM 0 DVD (D:). I do not have a dvd drive. it is CD/DVD-ROM with light scribe.Quote

I can not burn or play disks

...
1. Under Disk Management it shows CD-ROM 0 DVD (D:).
2. I do not have a dvd drive.
3. it is CD/DVD-ROM with light scribe.

removed the memory card and put it back in and turn the machine on and it is working

Ok, so I've just PUT my desktop PC through a bit of transit. When I got all the pieses back together and rebuilt it in a new case, I plugged in the MONITOR and got nothing. The system seems to be running, but I have no clue how to check. All I SEE is no input.

My first suspicion so the mode was WRONG, so I made sure the monitor was set to DVI, which is all my system has, and still nothing. So I swapped to VGA, plugged the monitor into my laptop and it works like a dream. So, Monitor is not the problem.

So, now I'm in a situation where I'd rather not go to the crooks at the electronic mall to test the system, but I don't seem to have any other way to test the hardware and see if my GPU is fried, my Motherboard is busted or my CPU is toast. I'm afraid I can only give specs by memory on this one, as I have no access.

GPU: Xenon nVidia GTX 260
CPU: Intel core 2 duo
Motherboard: Asus P5Q
Mish mash of RAM.

Anyway, I think it's a lost cause, but any help is always appreciated. Thanks.Have you checked all the connections and removed and reseated the video card?Quote from: Aelric on November 04, 2010, 06:05:23 AM

... I plugged in the monitor and got nothing. The system seems to be running, ...All I see is no input....

Hi everyone, I'll start out by saying that my computer knowledge base is fairly small, so I will do my best in posting this. I have a dell dimension 3100 desktop. I bought it in 2006. Lately it has been CRASHING (blue screen) after which I can usually get into safe mode and do a system RESTORE. I'm not sure why it is doing this, but at least I can usually get it working again fairly quickly.
The other thing that has been happening lately is that RANDOMLY after turning my computer off or restarting, I will sometimes get a black screen upon start up that says the following in the top left corner:
IntelhriGrantsdalemG`PCI`Accelerated`SVGA`BIOS
Build`Numberz`stqt`PCDev````ptoqrorppt"qwzprzrt
DECOMPILATION`OR`DISASSEMBLY`PROHIBITED

This is FOLLOWED by what looks like backward apostrophes, white in color that fill the screen. It sounds like the computer is running...lights on etc., but the screen won't change. Cannot get into safe mode from this screen. The only fix I have found is temporary and usually entails unplugging everything for a day or two and then turning everything back on. I just finished doing this so hoping to find another solution before this happens again.

Microsoft Windows XP
Home Edition 2002
Service Pack 3

Dell DimensionDV051
Intel(R)
Pentium(R) 4CPU 2.80GHz
2.79 GHz, 2.24 GB of RAM

Not sure what other info you need. Hoping someone can help.

Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the CONTENT, and paste it into your next replyHope I did this right.

==================================================
Dump File : Mini012211-01.dmp
Crash Time : 22/01/2011 2:13:29 PM
Bug Check String : KERNEL_MODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Bug Check Code : 0x1000008e
Parameter 1 : 0xc0000005
Parameter 2 : 0x8054b51a
Parameter 3 : 0xa8d8192c
Parameter 4 : 0x00000000
Caused By Driver : Ntfs.sys
Caused By Address : Ntfs.sys+3a1ec
File Description : NT File System Driver
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 5.1.2600.5512 (xpsp.080413-2111)
Processor : 32-bit
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini012211-01.dmp
Processors Count : 2
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 2600
Dump File Size : 90,112
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : Mini010611-01.dmp
Crash Time : 06/01/2011 6:05:29 PM
Bug Check String : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code : 0x10000050
Parameter 1 : 0xffffffff
Parameter 2 : 0x00000008
Parameter 3 : 0xffffffff
Parameter 4 : 0x00000000
Caused By Driver :
Caused By Address :
File Description :
Product Name :
Company :
File Version :
Processor : 32-bit
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini010611-01.dmp
Processors Count : 2
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 2600
Dump File Size : 90,112
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : Mini010411-01.dmp
Crash Time : 04/01/2011 7:37:31 PM
Bug Check String : KERNEL_MODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Bug Check Code : 0x1000008e
Parameter 1 : 0xc0000005
Parameter 2 : 0x8054b51a
Parameter 3 : 0xa786192c
Parameter 4 : 0x00000000
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+7451a
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 5.1.2600.5973 (xpsp_sp3_gdr.100427-1636)
Processor : 32-bit
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini010411-01.dmp
Processors Count : 2
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 2600
Dump File Size : 90,112
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : Mini122010-01.dmp
Crash Time : 20/12/2010 8:07:20 PM
Bug Check String : CRITICAL_OBJECT_TERMINATION
Bug Check Code : 0x000000f4
Parameter 1 : 0x00000003
Parameter 2 : 0x8a8592c8
Parameter 3 : 0x8a85943c
Parameter 4 : 0x805d2954
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+22f43
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 5.1.2600.5973 (xpsp_sp3_gdr.100427-1636)
Processor : 32-bit
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini122010-01.dmp
Processors Count : 2
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 2600
Dump File Size : 90,112
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : Mini121910-01.dmp
Crash Time : 19/12/2010 12:33:06 PM
Bug Check String : KERNEL_MODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Bug Check Code : 0x1000008e
Parameter 1 : 0xc000001d
Parameter 2 : 0x0000000b
Parameter 3 : 0xa8ecba78
Parameter 4 : 0x00000000
Caused By Driver : win32k.sys
Caused By Address : win32k.sys+19253c
File Description : Multi-User Win32 Driver
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 5.1.2600.6046 (xpsp_sp3_gdr.101026-1628)
Processor : 32-bit
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\WINDOWS\Minidump\Mini121910-01.dmp
Processors Count : 2
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 2600
Dump File Size : 90,112
==================================================

Could be any of a number of issues (ram, power supply, cpu, motherboard, or something else). Let's start by checking ram. Please download and run memtest: http://www.memtest.org/Sorry about the late reply, I've been having troubles downloading that memtest86 because I don't have winzip. Tried other things like jzip and 7zip, but think I just made it more confusing and couldn't seem to figure it out. Quote from: willow231 on January 22, 2011, 12:54:12 PM

...The only fix I have found is temporary and usually entails unplugging everything for a day or two and then turning everything back on. I just finished doing this so hoping to find another solution before this happens again...

Used and from a server. What kind and what for, i don't know. Guaranteed by local resident to be working properly.
Seems like i should buy them. He has 3. So maybe someone can let me know their thoughts on them for the price. 1 is $20. MTRON SLC NAND 16GB SSD

http://www.dpie.com/manuals/storage/mtron/MSP-SATA7035_rev0.3.pdfIMO the drives are not large enough to be of much use to you. I think the biggest bang for an SSD is to hold and run the Operating System and assorted other programs. 16g isn't large enough to effectively do that.Quote

Maximum sustained read: 120MB/s

Is there a way to USE the SOUND BLASTER AWE64's EXTERNAL midi port in a DOS program? I need to know, as I have it hooked up to a Roland SC-55 Sound Canvas.

The card is an ISA.

I recently built another computer. I use WINDOWS 7 64 bit. I purchased an ASUS CVD burner that came Nero 9 SOFTWARE. I am used to using Nero 7 and have burned several mp3 CD's and DVD's with it. However, when I tried to do that with Nero 9 I was informed that I needed to purchase a plug-in called Grace-note, which I did. However, I still cannot BURN mp3 DVD's. Does anybody know why I am having trouble with mp3 files all of a sudden? Mystery... Thanks for reading and thanks for any information you may have....JimAre you burning them as data files, or you CONVERT them to .wav files?Thanks for the comback BRONI
Quote from: Broni on November 06, 2010, 04:09:53 PM

Are you burning them as data files, or you convert them to .wav files?

Gracenote Plug-in
Simple MUSIC recognition service for song, artist, and album art

Nero Gracenote Plug-in puts you in full control of your music library by providing you with audio CD information such as track titles, album name, track number, and album art for over 80 million songs on 6 million CDs!

You do not need this to burn a data DVD (DVD-ROM) in Nero. I use Nero 9 to burn DVD-ROMs containing folders of mp3s for playing in my home DVD player. You just have to make sure in Nero that when you create a new compilation you select the "DVD-ROM (ISO)" option. Not any of the others.

I have tried but I have not been able to get to where you indicate with NERO 9

My laptop has a DVD burner in it. I have several home movies on 8mm camcorder. My ? is how do I use my laptop to transfer the video from there to either DVD or I also have an external hard-drive I would like to put them on. The system on my laptop is WINDOWS XP. Thanks for the help.Is the camcorder analog or digital? What is the make & model number?It is 8mm analog that carries the small 8mm tapes. Its a Cannon ES8400V CAMCORDERThe way I watch the tapes right now is the camcorder came with a CORD that you plug in to the tv. You know the cable with the red and yellow plug in.I was afraid of that. Your laptop has no way to convert the analog output of the camcorder to a digital format it can understand. If it was a desktop, you could add a video capture card, something like this:


Here is a USB one which might work, I have no EXPERIENCE with it:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812156023&cm_re=video_capture_card-_-12-156-023-_-ProductOk I am going to buy the

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812156023&cm_re=video_capture_card-_-12-156-023-_-Product

Then what do I doRead the "Details" tab in the link provided.
Send Video to your PC through USB port
Capture Video & Audio through USB 2.0 interface (No Sound Card Required)
Record Video in DVD/VCD/MP3/4 format and save in hard drive
Watch video or play Video Game on the laptop or desktop PC via this adapter
Play Video Game(PS2/3, Xbox 360, Wii....) on PC/Laptop
Turn your PC into video recording or editing workstation
Watch Video on Desktop/Laptop Monitor Screen
Edit recorded video with this professional video editor software
With Professional and easy to use video editor software
Create special effect in your video, making it into a stylish movie
Video tapes to DVD converter
Turning your PC into full-featured video recording and editing workstation
Great for internet conference / net meeting
Super easy setup in minutes
Still image capture for photo album
Play video game on laptop PC screen through this USB video adapter
Video & audio recorded always in sync
Support multiple video inputs of S-Video & Composite RCA Video
Excellent Video Selector/Switcher: Smooth video source switching between PC, Composite Video input or S-Video input instantly
Supports worldwide video systems including NTSC, PAL & SECAM
Support for all formats: record in DVD+/-R/RW, DVD+/-VR, and DVD-Video
Snap-shot button for saving still pictures as BMP or JPEG file
Resizable Video Window up to full screen display
WDM Compatible: It conforms to WDM standard and WORKS with all video software compatible with this standard
Fully compatible with Microsoft’s DirectShow
Broadcast the video to the outside world using your favorite messaging service or webcam software
Compatible with messaging applications: NetMeeting, MSN Messenger, Yahoo Messenger, ICQ.
Video SURVEILLANCE Interface: Any security CCTV surveillance cameras or camcorders can be connected to this device so you can turn your computer into a video surveillance system/monitor.

Its the time of year where I itch to upgrade my pc. This year I'm thinking of doing a bit of a leap in my upgrading. Right now....I am LOOKING at buying these four items...

Mobo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131647
CPU
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103727
Ram
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231416
Video Card
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150462

My only concern that I'm having right now is the fact that I couldn't crossfire with the Mobo, but being a realist...I don't see myself buying a 2nd video card....unless its tax time next year.

Now...what would I use this for?
Games like CoD, Dragon Age and free mmos
Photoshop dabbles
miscellaneous things online

I'm curious if you think these components would hold me over for a few years as far as games go. As of now I can play the games that are out...but certain scenes in CoD Black Ops for example....are about 10FPS. Pretty much anything I do buy will be an improvement. Also if you happen to see another Mobo or item thats better with in a 10-15 dollar difference I would love to KNOW. I have the know how to put the PARTS together, but not a lot of product experience. This would only be the 3rd or 4th time I have upgraded my stuff.

another question....in an effort to save money...if I stayed with my current GPU [geforce 9400 GT 1gb on board ram] Do you think I will be able to play this years games with out so much lag that gameplay is unbearable?

In case you are curious, my current specs are

Windows 7
ECS Geforce 7050M-M
Athlon 64 X2 Dual CORE 5200+ 2.7
2gbs ddr2 ram
geforce 9400 gt 1gb ddr2

Hello.

I am looking for some help on a problem i am having with my PC and/or monitor.

Most of the time i have no problems at all with my monitor (PC another matter). Recently though it has been failing to operate properly when i boot or reboot the computer. It displays the usual BIOS and Windows startup screens then before i can login to my user account the screen goes blank and what i can only describe as an error box appears with a message refering to the screen settings and resolution. The box cannot be cleared to continue booting the PC and just moves around the screen at random. The only way to proceed is switch the PC off with the main switch. i have no other control over the PC when this happens. Sometime when this happens i can cure it by disconnecting the monitor from the PC and the PC from the mains. Other times the only way to clear it is to connect another monitor to the machine which then works fine. So does the 'problem' monitor when plugged into another machine. It works fine when returned to the original PC - Until the next time....!

can anyone offer any help please. CANT work out if it is monitor, pc hardware or pc software at fault.What is the exact message you see and exactly when does it appear?It sounds like the resolution was set for one that specific monitor can't run at. Which would EXPLAIN why bios and start screens come up but as soon as the video driver kicks in it can't display at that setting. Try booting into safe mode then restarting.I was in a bit of a rush when i originaly posted so perhaps i can explain further and update the situation.

FYI The PC is a Compaq Presario (2006 vintage) running Windows XPsp3. The Monitor in question is a Samsung Syncmaster 710v of similar vintage (slightly older than the PC). The monitor resolution is normally set at 1024x768 60hz. This is the setting most comfortable for my eyesight.

The exact error message i have been receiving on the screen is:

"Not Optimum Mode
Recommended Mode:
1280x1024 60hz"

I have tried setting the resolution to this and initaly the message disapeared but soon returned despite the display setting being the same as it asked for. Whatever display resolution is set makes no difference.

I have tried various 'tricks' to get the screen and PC working together again, including disconnecting the PC from the mains, the Monitor form the PC and laterly the Monitor from the mains or a combination of all THREE. All have worked occasionaly but not consistently . The best but most time consuming method seems to be exchanging the monitor for a spare, older monitor (which is a bulky CRT type). When i later put the main monitor (the Samsung one) back on the PC it all works fine, until the PC crashes or somethign else changes and triggers the same error again. In addition to this attempts to alter the display settings manualy, also seems to cause the error.

I hape this clarifies things. Any ideas?

Unless anyone out there can suggest otherwise i am inclined to think there is a fault with the monitor not the PC. Determining which it is is crucial since i am due to replace the PC soon and need to know if i a new monitor is needed or just a new base unit.

Many thanks.
I could be the monitor. Next time the computer "crashes" before you do anything to the PC, change monitors and see if everything is still there. If the PC actually crashes (reboots, BSOD, or locks up totally) then it may well just be a video card issue. The changing resolutions causing a crash could indicate the video card is failing. Especially if it is on-board. Good Luck Thanks for replies

Update on problem. Still occuring but the circumstances seem to have changed. After a couple of occasions when the error message briefly appeared before the screen returned to normal during boot up it, seems to have all but stoped doing it in first boot or reboot. Now seems to be doing it at random whilst using the PC normally. Last occurence was while surfing the net, the screen blanked out and appeaed to turn itself off briefly. When it turned back on all i got was the error message again, leaving me no choice but to shut down manually. After unplugging the PC and monitor all was fine again.

Asherr: When you say 'repair windows' do you mean reinstall the OS or just run a system restore?

How do i go about reinstalling the display/video divers please?Reinstalling the display/video drivers.

1. You can go to the control panel and uninstall the drivers
2. Download driver cleaner pro (you can just google it)
3. Reboot System to safe mode
4. Use driver cleaner pro, the company NAME pertains to the label of the video driver such as ATI, Nvidia etc.. Once done, press clean.
5. Reboot to normal mode
6. Reinstall drivers
7. Restart your PC

Do these problems happen with the BACKUP monitor? Try using it for a while and see. If not then it is your monitor. Also I would strongly recomend not using anything to uninstall a driver that isn't a part of windows or an uninstaller from the OEM. To uninstall the video drivers manually just do this:

right-click "my computer" (either from start menu or desktop) and chose manage
click on device manager
click the "+" next to display adapters
right-click the entry below it and chose uninstall

BEFORE doing this make sure you have the correct driver to re-install with (OEM disk or latest drivers from the OEM via internet)and on problem.

It now appears to be the monitor. Looked into drivers and could find nothing wrong. This has now ceased to be a relevant issue since i have now replaced the PC in question to a new Packard Bell running windows 7. After initially working fine the monitor has again stopped working properly, showing the same error message. The trouble began when i went to change the display settings to customise it from the factory settings. I then pluged the monitor into an older machine running XP SP1 (an Advent machine, predecessor to the Compaq) and did all the things that had triggered the monitor to stop working on the other machines and it continued to work fine.

I am now very confused. How can a monitor fail to work properly on 2 PCs yet work fine on a third much older machine? I the monitor were 'kaput' it wouldnt work on any PC properly or at all would it?

Any ideas? Software conflict, out of date driver or what?

I just recently moved and started having problems with my computer as soon as I plugged it in. Actually it started a few months ago, I would try to wake my computer from sleep mode and it would spin the fans then not come out resulting in me having to do a hard reset. Same thing if I would try to restart my computer within windows, just wouldn't restart.

Anyways I hooked my comp up, it would run for a few minutes then shutdown as if it was overheating. I check out core temps on cpu and it's running at 35c. I tried replacing the power supply at this point and continued having the same problem of sudden shut downs. Next I tried swapping out the ram, problem persists. Then all of a sudden I turn it on and have some vertical broken grey lines across the screen during startup and red vertical bars across my desktop in windows and it's telling me I don't have a nvidia video card installed.

At this point I go pick up a new motherboard, asus p5n-d. Install motherboard, make all connections, go to boot up and it's as if the power supply is screwed, board doesn't seem to be getting enough power and fans aren't spinning at speed they should be, the fan for the power supply even is not GOING at normal speed, and the blue lights inside it are flickering as if it's surging power. I never get any video or anything at all. I do a bench test with no case and motherboard sitting on the motherboard case, only power supply, video card, 1 STICK of ram and cpu/heatsink connected, same problem again so it's one of these components now.

I then rebuild computer with old motherboard and minimal components to boot up, now power supply is doing same thing with this board as well.

At this point I have no idea what has happened and why it seems like I have a power supply issue again.

Components are:

CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo e6550
MB: ASUS P5N32-E SLI Plus
Ram: 2x1GB DDR2 SLI Ready pc6400 I believe
HD: Western digital 500GB
Power Supply: OCZ 700W
Video: BFG Nvidia 9600 GTX

Any help that anyone can give please do because I'm lost at this point. I will try TESTING power supply tomorrow to see if it's giving off the correct power.Seems to me you have started to transfer mobo components onto new one(back and forth) in a way that you ain't sure that all or some parts are not RELIABLY usable or bad. Make sure when swapping form one mobo to another, they are compatible and working. You must choose also between mobos to use and troubleshoot. If one gives a better output than the other(less issue), then you could start making a better status to post on what still needs to do. Before starting up, try flushing out power from PSU by "holding down Power On button for 30 seconds" with power cord unplug. It may also help in draining(reset) start up information stored from memory chip.

*Never use Hibernate or Sleep mode

Hi,

I'm ready to invest in a Netbook. I don't want to spend too MUCH money, but I do want a full O/S. Anyone know of a particularly GOOD deal out there for a good quality Netbook?Check out www.newegg.com. They usually have the BEST prices on all things tech. I'd go for a Dell, Acer, ASUS, or Lenovo.why not you try with apple net book,long lasting ,light weight and easy to carry and use also.

thanksQuote from: charlesstephen76 on November 07, 2010, 07:32:17 PM

why not you try with apple net book,long lasting ,light weight and easy to carry and use also.

My Canon PRINTER will no longer feed the paper for printing. I've checked for a paper JAM and it's clear. The
PROBLEM started yesterday when the paper feed got a sheet of bond paper slightly askew and it couldn't be
fed through. After clearing up that, I have tried repeatedly to get it to function, but it only clatters and carries on with no paper making it into the paper feed mechanism. It then gives the message to shut it off and restart, but that gives no joy either. Anyone have experience with this sort of THING who can tell me what I need to do? Much appreciated!!Further diddling with the printer, I have now gotten it to try to feed the paper to print, but it seems to be pulling the input sheet on ONE side only, causing it to wrinkle, thus causing a paper jam. I don't know that any of this
is resolvable by my description of the problem, but thought it worth a try. Thanks!
Quote

but it seems to be pulling the input sheet on one side only,

My Compaq Mini Laptop ( Model No : 110C-1100 ) does not have an internal DVD RW ; the OS has got corrupted. I wish to install an OS afresh . I have been told, that you can do this by using a USB bootable Pen-Drive. I have a 4GB pen-drive ( a flash drive ). How to create a bootable Pen-Drive ? Will somebody guide me ? Thanks in ADVANCE . Please help .-- Dr. JOSHI.You will need the cd/dvd rom to copy the OS files to a USB by using EITHER an external drive or USED another computer to perform the task.
http://www.intowindows.com/bootable-usb/
http://www.raymond.cc/blog/archives/2007/10/16/how-to-make-a-usb-flash-drive-bootable/Thanks-Mr-Jason2074-!--My-problem-has-not-been-solved.My-desktop-pc-has-DVD-RW-and-Have-a-4GB-PEN-DRIVE.-I-also-have-a-genuine-MS-Windows-XP-Home-&-Student-CD-with-me.-By-using-these-three-can-I-COPY-THE-Windows-XP-CD-to-the-Pendrive-?--If-this-can-be-done,-I-will-be-able-to-Install-the"Windows"-to
my-laptop-which-does-not-have-an-inbuilt-CD-or-DVD-Rom.
Please-guide-me-step-by-step-as-to-how-I-could-copy-the-Windows-CD-to-my-Pendrive-(Flash-Drive-)
Thanks-again-!Quote from: DrBhaiyya on January 22, 2011, 07:06:31 AM

Thanks-Mr-Jason2074-!--My-problem-has-not-been-solved.My-desktop-pc-has-DVD-RW-and-Have-a-4GB-PEN-DRIVE.-I-also-have-a-genuine-MS-Windows-XP-Home-&-Student-CD-with-me.-By-using-these-three-can-I-COPY-THE-Windows-XP-CD-to-the-Pendrive-?--If-this-can-be-done,-I-will-be-able-to-Install-the"Windows"-to
my-laptop-which-does-not-have-an-inbuilt-CD-or-DVD-Rom.
Please-guide-me-step-by-step-as-to-how-I-could-copy-the-Windows-CD-to-my-Pendrive-(Flash-Drive-)
Thanks-again-!

When I do the F6 it asks me to put a disk into the A: drive but I don't have an A: drive

Hi

A friend has asked me to look at their PC (as above) running XP Home.

It keeps freezing after about 30 minutes from switch on and then a shorter time. It GIVES a black screen with the arrow or egg timer for the cursor - after about 5 minutes it reboots with no intervention from me.

I suspected a heat problem - the BIOS allows a health check and shows the temperature of the box (about 30C but strangely says the speed of the fan is zero when it is definitely working ) and the CPU 36C after freeze. The CPU fan has an 'intelligent' VARIABLE speed to keep temperature at a level this can be enabled or not - it is set at enabled.

The CPU fins were very fluffy and I cleaned these off and the CPU and case fans were dirty and cleaned these. Both fans are and have been working.

After cleaning I tried again but it refroze at about 40minutes from restart.

The PC has two logical drives of about 30GB each - the C drive has about 500MB of free space left. I can take about 10GB off that drive but want to back it up first. When I try to back up the drive onto external storage, it freezes before I manage to complete the back up.

I would be very grateful for any pointers to solve my problem.

Windows needs approx 15% free space to run properly....that means C: should have at least 5G free space.This sounds dumb, but
- try putting a big desk fan behind the case to blow air into the case.
This is based on a TRUE story. Hey, I am having the same problem random SHUT down when ever accessing something unknown? the HDD is wiped so no operating system and it now just happens while installing it.

I have done all the same checks but am at a complete

I fear its something like motherboard failure at some point so does anyone know of any testing WARE I could use to test the motherboard?You should start your own Topic so it can recieve the proper attention...Hi when having this type of problem it helps to have a few tools on hand. First try a copy of memtest running on the computer this will help isolate the motherboard and CPU and off course the memory. If the Bios has power supply as well as temperatures checking make sure the voltages are within 10%. Carefully noting if any are high and others are low. if this is the case the power supply is not very shiny and you should try another power supply. Quote

the power supply is not very shiny

Hello,

I need to test a parallel port.

I have a parallel loopback device already.

but How exactly do I run the loopback test??


All I can find online are diagrams of how to make the loopback device not how to use it.


Thanks!HTTP://www.passmark.com/products/bit.htm

Quote

The Professional VERSION also has a number of additional FEATURES such as tape drive testing, USB port testing, USB 2.0 port testing, Serial and parallel port testing with the use of loop back plugs.

http://www.passmark.com/products/bit.htm

This freeware below might work, but I havent tested it, just googled it

http://wareseeker.com/Windows-Widgets/parallel-port-1.0.zip/438024

I GOT HP deskjet d1560 printer i WANT to network share this printer i checked the sharing option and gave it a name but i cant actually PRINT...how can i check if this printer support printing on the network.!!! It should support printing on the network. What operating system are you using on the COMPUTER(s) that you're trying to print from? Does the computer that the printer is connected to have any problems with printing from it?i use windows vista and i can connect and print to other networked printers using the same laptop and i can use this d1560 printer when i use the usb cable...thats why i found it strange that i cant use it without the cable

I recently purchased some DDR3-1333 non-ECC unbuffered 1.5V Dual CHANNEL RAM to go with the motherboard I was buying. Here are the two products:
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131647
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231253

So, on to my question. As you can see, that motherboard uses the AMD 870 chipset. On G.Skill's product page for this RAM, that particular Chipset does not seem to be supported, while chipsets above and below it seem to be. Here is the link:

http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=97

I have tried this with a single STICK at a time, I have tried clearing the CMOS, there are no beep codes, everything spins up, and the motherboard's "DIMM LED" LIGHTS up. According to the manual, that means incompatible RAM.

One of the weirdest things about all this is that even the RAM models that ARE listed as supported in the MOBO manual do NOT list the AMD 870 chipset as "supported" on G.Skill's product pages for those models. I was unable to find a single kit of RAM from G.Skill that says it SUPPORTS that chipset, even though ASUS's manual seems to have picked a few and labeled them as compatible for whatever reason.

Personally, I have never come across the idea of RAM not being supported for a particular chipset. I have always simply matched up the critical industry standards like speed, ECC or non-ECC, voltages, and all that stuff.

Basically, can anyone explain to me why this particular RAM is not supported? Is there anything I can do? This may be a stretch, but what if I borrowed a compatible stick and went into the BIOS and set the RAM settings to exactly the specifications of my sticks, then powered off and swapped my sticks in? Does this not even make sense? (I'm grasping at straws here).

If there is some other factor that I am missing, I would love to learn about it.

Of course, any help would be GREATLY appreciated, especially since this is a build for my parents, and I would feel pretty awful if I were to find out that I bought completely incompatible RAM for them and wasted their money. I hope I don't have to tell them they have to pay a restocking fee.

Thanks a lot to anyone who takes the time to give me a hand!ASUS MBoard manuals have 2=3 pages with a list of Preferred Vendor RAM listings....
This means ASUS has physically tested that brand and speed and made sure it works...

Choose a product from their list.

HD donor PC is an old, self built ATX case, Celeron CPU, Intel D845EPI/D845GVSR Mboard. It was running fine until I removed the CPU cooling fan assembly to clean it Completely blocked with dust/nicotine/ect. The CPU came out with the fan assembly and fell, badly bending a pin on the CPU. No big deal. But I NEED to run that hard drive so I installed it in my Compaq 5170 but the boot process only gets through the memory check, then a cursor in the upper left of the screen blinks... and continues to blink.
At first boot there was a screen saying that the drive changes were being updated, then the cursor blinked for ~ 10 minutes. I restarted 3 times and it still won't get past the memory check - cursor blinking screen.

Both PC's are IDE - the HD in this machine (the Compaq) which I'm ONLINE with now with the old HD re-installed (working fine), is jumpered to master. I jumpered the HD in question to master (which is actually no jumper installed according to the lable on it.

Why is it not starting?

This HD in the Compaq I'm using at this moment is a Seagate ST310212A -
and the drive that was working fine EARLIER in the donor PC, that I'm trying to run on here, is a WD 1600AAJB.

While the cursor is blinking I don't see any evidence of HD activity via the light on the front panel.

What now.

Links to specs on this hardware:

Seagate ST310212A

http://www.seagate.com/ww/v/index.jsp?vgnextoid=46d6c6ea20fbd010VgnVCM100000dd04090aRCRD&locale=en-US&reqPage=Legacy

WD 1600AAJB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136112

Compaq 5170http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&docname=c00191266

Intel D845 GVSR
http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/d845gvsr/sb/CS-027150.htm

Quote

Why is it not starting?

If the data on that disk is vital you will need to mount it as a slave or with a USB or Firewire adapter as an external drive

can I still install a new copy of XP onto this hard drive (with the product key that belongs to it) using the XP disc from my other XP SP2 install (which is a different product key)?

Think how easy piracy would be if each newly installed Windows hard drive could just be cloned and put in another computer.

newly installed Windows hard drive

You may need to do a complete reinstall. But try this...

Enter OS Load options. When you receive this message, type:

/fastdetect

and then press ENTER

Try both product keys, the old one first.

This should hopefully be a quick and easy to answer question. Is it possible to have a blu-ray disc drive for a PC that wasn't designed to read dual layer blu-ray discs?

Basically I've just tried PLAYING a film on my PC but the disc couldn't be read. I tried the film on the TV's blu-ray player and it worked fine. I tried another blu-ray film (on the PC) and it played fine. The only difference between the two discs is the size (the one that worked was 20 odd Gb and the one that wouldn't work was 40 odd Gb).

Btw Disk Management shows the the size and that the disc is healthy, whilst the disc properties shows 0/0 BYTES free but at least recognises the disc type. (Idk you tell me???)Okay never mind. I hadn't bothered to take the disc out all day and whilst installing 'Mail' from Windows live, not doing or even LOOKING at anything else, the disc loaded and my movie software booted up... Random.

Why can't I have normal computer problems like normal people?Just as you stated days ago...all you have to do is post here...and things fix themselves... And now it's not working again... And just to be confusing it worked after a restart yesterday.New thought! Do retail blu-ray FILMS come in different formats like the re-writable blank discs do i.e negative or positive?

[Note: Firmware update/re-install did not help.]

==================================[EDIT]=========================================================

No that's only DVD's sorry my mistake, I've been misreading things again...

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention. It works with some dual layer blu-rays.Writing it off as a poor quality blu-ray drive. Well, it was only a cheap one. Still, would have expected it to work FULLY and properly.

I have a LCD monitor, PHilips 220E which has a vga and dvi connection. My pc is connected to it via dvi-d while my xbox is connected to it via vga. This worked fine for over a year. Recently I'm having problems with the monitor because I dont get any video when I start the pc (no post and no WINDOWS boot). I need to restart the pc several times before I get any video. At first I thought it was a video card problem so I disconnected the monitor from my graphics card and connected it to the onboard video that my pc has. Same problem. Next I thought it was a defective dvi cable so I BOUGHT a new dvi cable. Same problem. Now I'm beginning to think it may be a monitor problem. What ELSE could it be? Please help. The monitor is fairly new. Just over a year old.

PS.
The xbox doesnt have any problem though. Monitor works fine. The fact that the Xbox isn't having a problem with it and that the computer isn't even getting a POST kind of eliminates the chance of it being the monitor. Not having a monitor won't CAUSE a system to not POST. Faulty video card, memory, or motherboard on the other hand will cause a computer not to POST.

Even without a monitor, you should be able to tell if the computer is completing the POST (single BEEP). If you're getting any other kind of beep pattern or no beep at all, it's not the monitor.If both the graphics card and the onboard graphics produce the same result, what could it be? The motherboard? I dont want to go on replacing things that dont have a problem in the first place.Most likely the motherboard or power supply.

The only other way to test it's not the monitor is to test it with another system and test another monitor with your computer.Monitor won't switch between analog & digital unless you turn it off first. You probably had it on a power strip before. You can also use the input selector switch on the monitor.Also I forgot to mention before. When I switch on the pc, I hear all the fans working, the led in motherboard is lit on, I can see the hard drive lite blinking and I can open and close the dvd drive. Is this still a power supply problem? You mentioned that it didn't work when you connected it to the onboard graphics. Try the onboard graphics again but with the graphics card physically removed from the system as when a separate graphics card is installed, the onboard card is automatically disabled. Also, have you tried connecting the monitor to the PC with the VGA cable instead of DVI?Quote from: jquin3 on May 22, 2011, 11:38:53 PM

Also I forgot to mention before. When I switch on the pc, I hear all the fans working, the led in motherboard is lit on, I can see the hard drive lite blinking and I can open and close the dvd drive. Is this still a power supply problem?

It's still possible the power supply is the problem, or it could be the motherboard, like I said before. Without proper tools, like a multimeter, and the know how, all you can do to eliminate either as a possibility is to swap out the PSU from another computer. The functions you are referring to can all still happen even if the power supply is failing but not completely dead.

Is the system speaker (small speaker connected to the motherboard) present and if so do you hear a beep when boot?

What do you mean it's not powering on? What's not powering on? If the fans and everything else are working, what are you referring to?

If it's not beeping like it does with the POST, there is something wrong with the system, not the screen.

Usually, a POST will not occur if:
1. The motherboard is faulty, damaged, or dead.
2. The processor is faulty, damaged, or dead.
3. The PSU is faulty or damaged. (If it were dead, it wouldn't turn on at all.)
4. Any of the above are not connected correctly.

When i start my laptop the screen does not shows a clear picture, several lines and scratches appears. I have asked this to a technition he says it must HD problem, other says it must be graphics problem and another people says it must be LCD fault. What could be the problem and how to resolve and fix it. Please HELP me...Not a lot of information to go here so first off what laptop are you using? When did the laptop start to malfunction (do you know what happened to it)?

I'm going to assume for the moment that the laptop runs Windows XP (as listed under your PROFILE OS), and THEREFORE is fairly old and out of warranty.


Hard Drive (HD) would not cause a failure to display the POST.

To rule out the LCD screen you can plug your laptop into a working monitor or TV (provided the laptop has a video output of some sort i.e. VGA, DVI, S-video, etc). LCD screens can be repaired or replaced at certain shops.

If the actual graphics chip (usually a component part of the motherboard (on-board)) has malfunctioned or the motherboard or BIOS chip has failed then usually the whole motherboard must be replaced. If this is the case then it is usually cheaper to simply replace the whole laptop for a new one.


Laptops, the modern marvel of disposable computers...Use EXTERNAL monitor for testing if laptop has port connectors. Check the difference...What happens if you boot into safe mode? If you see lines and things on the screen when you boot up, it is the LCD screen, or the connector that is the problem. If you hook up your laptop to an external monitor and get a clear display then you know that your graphics card is working well, so the problem is not there.

If your screen has a non-straight line running through it from one side to another in addition to straight lines, then you have a leak in your lcd screen, and you need to replace the lcd screen. If that still doesnt fix the problem, then replace the lcd CABLE as well

I do allot of work overseas. Sometimes 4 or 6 months at a time. Last year I was in the United Arab Emirates and purchased a Canon MP270 ink jet printer. The price was reasonable, about $65.00. When I was finished in the UAE, I packed the printer in my suitcase and brought it back to the USA with me. About 2 months after I got back, I got a message that the black ink cartridge was low. I removed the cartridge from the printer and wrote down the number, PG510.
When I tried to find a Canon PG510 cartridge, I could not locate one. The only places that had them on-line was companies in Europe. I went to Canon's USA SITE and found the MP270 printer and saw that it called out for a black print cartridge, PG210. I remembered seeing this number when I checked at Walmart. I bought the PG210 cartridge from Walmart and before I installed it in my printer, I verified on the side of the box that it was a cartridge for a MP270 printer. I also verified that the cartridge contact configuration was the same as the PG510. When I installed it in the printer, I get an error message, E14, on the LED. This error message says that the incorrect cartridge is installed and to install a correct cartridge.
I went and downloaded the latest printer drivers from Canon's USA website in hopes that this might correct the problem, but it was a waste of time. I contacted Canon service and they said that the only cartridges available for an overseas model were cartridges from Europe.
I can't believe that Canon would manufacture a printer for Europe with the same model number as a Canon printer in the USA, but require two different printer cartridges. I have done this before with HP printers and have not had a problem. I will probably have to buy a new printer, which is not bad today verses buying one 10 or 15 years ago. Printers today are so cheap, they just about give them away.
Before I trash the MP270, I am going to OPEN it up and see if they have installed some kind of jumpers or if there is a series of DIP switches on the circuit board. Has anyone out there ran into this before? I will post again, if I find anything when I open it up.
I guess the BIGGEST lesson I have learned is that if I am overseas again and I need to buy a printer, stay clear of the Canon and go with the HP.
As usual, any and all help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.I am not surprised at the limitations you are experiencing with your cartridge issue. I see a POSSIBILITY of some other options . If you have access to an on-line supplier in Europe that can send you the required cartridge (or better yet a personal association with someone that can buy what you need and send it --as a gift). Another option (if it is indeed possible) is to purchase an ink refill kit that will allow you to refill the cartridges yourself. Undoubtedly you will have a reader chip on the cartridge that will need to be reset to enable reuse of the cartridge. If you PM me i can supply you with a commercial contact in the U.S. (GA) that i have dealt with many times and can vouch for their integrity. You MUST tell them the conditions as you have told us to ensure that they CAN supply you with the correct material. They sell ink/reprogrammers/cartridges that do NOT require reprogramming/refill kits/etc./etc. truenorthThanks for the information truenorth. I have checked on-line and have found a few places that sell the overseas cartridges. This situation has changed my mind about Canon products, which other than this have served me quite well. I don't know if I want to pursue your suggestion of contacting your stateside contact, because I feel like I am bending down to pick up pennies and dollars are flying right over my head. I will open the printer up next weekend and see if I see anything obvious. I have some friends going back to the UAE so I will probably let them take it with them.
Thanks again for taking the time to post your reply.

clwebbQuote from: clwebb

Printers today are so cheap, they just about give them away.

I can't believe that Canon would manufacture a printer for Europe with the same model number as a Canon printer in the USA, but require two different printer cartridges.

I am about buy computer with following specs.
Will these be able to run modern games without problem?
I don't need to have best GRAPHIC quality in games, I just want them to work OK.

*500W power SOURCE
*AMD 870 motherboard
*AMD Phenom 2X 555BE (3.2Ghz) DUAL Core Processor
*4GB DDR3 RAM (1333Mhz)
*1TB SATA HD
*AMD Radeon HD5770 (1GB GDDR5) Graphics card.

Well, I just bought an 8GB PNY Attache Mini USB Flash Drive (I had bought USB's from them before never had a problem) and I today wanted to transfer a large amount of music that was on my old Windows XP desktop to my new Windows 7 laptop. So I gathered all the music files that I wanted transfer and compressed them into a .RAR file which was around 6.37 GB and when I WENT to transfer to my USB drive I received an error saying that the USB was full. Which it was clearly not, I even looked at drive through properties and it stated that I had almost 8 GB's free and I even tried transferring a smaller file which worked. So I decided to split my original 6 GB .RAR file into smaller 2GB PIECES using HJ-Split and then I was able to transfer each piece on the flash drive with no problem. And when looked a drive diagnostics, it stated that I used 6.37 GB of space. My question is then is their a size limit on the file that you can transfer to a USB drive or is their some other issue? I was able to transfer my files but I had to split them into smaller files first, which prefer not to do all the time. If anyone can explain to me this quirk, it would be greatly appreciated.Hi, I believe this may have been due to the fact that the FAT32 file system architecture supports a max file size of 4GB . While all modern windows Operating Systems use the NTFS file system, flash drives still use FAT32 for the most part. I am not positive on the exact reasoning for this, but I think it has something to do with the fact that NTFS's extra features would wear down a Flash-Based drive more quickly. Unfortunately, for the time being, splitting files maybe be the only option. You could also share the files over the network though, which would probably take a little longer, but it's really quite simple to do. HOPE this helps!Or you could convert the drive to NTFS with the convert drive letter: /fs:ntfs command. Make sure you back up your data first.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHDu-w8dqvEThanks guys that helped a lot.

I've GOT several QUESTIONS regarding the computer I'll be building.

It's going to be a gaming computer with an emphasis on cooling and performance.


VIDEO cards:

Can any card be crossfired? The graphic cards I've been looking into are

MSI N570GTX Twin Frozr II OC GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=14-127-564&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2#scrollFullInfo

Single, not cross fire

XFX HD-695X-CNFC Radeon HD 6950 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150530

Cross fire

MSI N580GTX Lightning GeForce GTX 580 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=14-127-579&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2#scrollFullInfo

Due to the price, single

HIS H687F1G2M Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161349

Cross fire

Which one would you recommend? I'm looking for the one that would provide me with the best results? I'm looking to build a computer that can provide me with good results for atleast 2 years, with this year providing me the best results possible.

I'm slightly leaning on the first option, however would a cross fire of the radeaon hd 6950 provide better results?

Also I'm quite clueless on the motherboards, I have no idea what to get because I don't know what I'm looking at. Should I get an intel motherboard or AMD? Or does it matter?

What power supply should I get? I'm guessing due to the graphic cards I'm considering I should get something with 700-800 wats?

First of all, I am not even going g to try and make a recommendation. Just some observations.
Yes, you need 700 watt for what you want to do.
Some prefer Intel, but AMD can give you more performance for the money.
Just an idea, which you may have already investigated.
Look here:
http://www.cyberpowerpc.com/landingpages/intel/i7/?gclid=CNHdwMOBhakCFRpVgwodIWU_pA
These people think they have some super computers for sale. Maybe their choice of components would give you some clue as to what those people think is a good combination. You might try that with other companies that offer special gaming PACKAGES. See what combination they think are hot.

For example:
Have you looked at New Alienware Gaming PCs ?
Go to http://alienware.com
and see what they say is hot. You might be able to duplicate what they offer for less money and higher performance.
Nice cases.i too am relatively new to the computer building scene. for what its worth, i stumbled onto this site:
http://www.kitchentablecomputers.com/index.php
maybe it will help, maybe not.
Also, i would suggest this website for cases, power supplies, etc. seems like they have something for every budget:
www.xoxide.com

I like to STREAM a LOT of sports games on my PC. It'd be a lot better however if I could get these on my TV.
I was wondering if there is a way to connect your PC to a TV so that if I stream a sports game...I can watch it on the TV screen.

Specifically
1) I have a Samsung HDTV and a Dell Inspiron 5150 that is 6 years old...so is this even possible?

2) If so, what equiptment do I need?
-The Samsung manual says I can either connect with a D-Sub Cable+PC Audio Cable OR
I can connect with an HDMI/DVI Cable+3.5 mm Stero mini-plug/2RCA Cable.

-Which of those do you recommend?
-Do I need to go to a bestbuy, or would just googling it/new egg/amazon and picking the cheapest one be fine?SINCE you have a laptop, there is only one OPTION: 15-pin D-Sub Cable+3.5 mm Stero mini-plug
Shop for the cables any way you choose. BestBuy would be the most expensive, NewEgg/Amazon a whole lot cheaper.

I have 2 problems and maybe you guys can help me with the first before i even have to mess the CD ROM install.
My cpu is an HP pav. 6813w with a light scribe dvd rom.

My initial problem is my dvd rom will not load up SOFTWARE cds but will load media cds like music,movies,writable cds with pics on them. It does recognize what software is on them but will not boot. Any ideas on that one?

Second: So after not being able to figure that out I figured I would just install an old cdrom from my old dell cpu. But the connections(ide) from that are different and don't exist in my hp. I don't even no what to call them in the hp. I looked on the back of the old cdrom to see if I could put the right connection cable on the back of it but did not see anything that would match to the hp.
Any help Guys?
ThanksThe 1st issue i have with your post is that a search for your computer as an "HP pav. 6813w" produced no results. So would you please recheck and correct the model of your computer. Your reference later on to different type of connection cable in your old cd rom to what is available in your computer ( is it a laptop or a PC by the way?) would tend to indicate your computer has ONLY SATA connections available. However without knowing what the actual computer is it is hard to know what really is available. When you refer to CPU you are reffering to the "central processor unit " of a computer. I am sure you mean to just say PC/laptop/or computer. Did your optical reader that is not able to read software discs ever do so? If so when and what happened (if you know ) to change things?We will be in a much better position to start dealing with your problems when we have the answers to the above questions. truenorth
P.S. A WARM welcome to the CH forums.Thanks for the welcome truenorth.

It is a desktop and the model # I just pulled off of the info sheet that it came with from the store. The only thing that I can find on the outside is "HP Pavilion". I do have a part # but it must be for microcenter's info because I googled it and this is what I got.

http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0317878

Which is my actually computer, if that helps any.

The rom problem has always existed though. The first time I tried loading a software disc I thought it was just a bad disc. And then the second time I realized it must be the a rom issue.

I should also add that i'm running windows 7 to.OK , That is a nice looking computer you have--lots of very nice features. Before we actually get into your Cd reading issue. Is the computer you have one of those micro center refurbished ones? The reason i ask that is that if it is still under warranty (90 days) i would urge you to keep an eye on the clock to deal with the issue under warranty (if we cannot solve it here).
I was concerned that because your Win 7 is a 64 bit O/S that perhaps your issue is being caused by software that is 32 bit. However research seems to indicate with a few exceptions (which i will indicate0 that should not be a problem.
"Most programs designed for the 32-bit version of Windows will work on the 64-bit version of Windows. Notable exceptions are many antivirus programs.

Device drivers designed for 32-bit versions of Windows won't work on computers running a 64-bit version of Windows. If you're trying to install a printer or other device that only has 32-bit drivers available, it won't work correctly on a 64-bit version of Windows. If you are unsure whether there is a 64-bit driver available for your device, go online to the Windows Vista Compatibility Center." quote from a Microsoft web site.
So unless the ones that you have tried fall into the categories above it should not create a problem. Do you have another computer that you can try the software discs in to see the result? Are these programs commercial discs as opposed to SOMETHING non commercial? If they are software it may only be that they are not doing an "autorun". Have you looked at the various icons to see if there is an "install" application icon? If so clicking on it should execute your installation sequence. truenorthActually the warranty issue is not something I wanted to admit to because I bought an extended one with this computer and it recently ran out even though I suspected there might be a problem. lol Thats what you call dumb procrastination.

I have tried to boot the disc several different ways by right clicking and using all of the booting options like autorun or just install option. I can access all of the info on the disc, it just won't run the program so I know my rom is working to some degree i guess.

I guess let me explain how I came to all my conclusions thus far with some more specifics. The first software I tried to load was office 2007( a brand new copy out of the box) and it wouldn't load/boot. And i got that taken care over the phone with microsoft, they were able to load it over the internet for me. So i had just assumed it was a bad disc even though it looked flawless.

Then the 2nd software I tried to install was "realflight" which is an RC flight simulator and I was having the exact same problem.
The blue disc loading icon spins for a few seconds than just stops and nothing. No matter how I try to load it.

I suppose I do need to run these discs on another machine to make sure they're both not damaged, but I just don't think they are. Which was my reasoning for wanting to install that older cdrom on my HP. But I think it does have the SATA connections and not the ide ones.

Thanks for your time.Problem 2 Answer: I think that one of these sort of things is your only solution to the data interface problems: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812270236&cm_re=SATA_-_IDE_Adapter-_-12-270-236-_-Product

I hadn't realised that they were phasing out IDE so completely already.Quote from: Accessless on January 23, 2011, 05:40:31 PM

I hadn't realised that they were phasing out IDE so completely already.

My main box recently went bubye. While waiting oin parts I acquired a Compaq PRESARIO 6000 6234SE. It is chugging along on 512 mb. This machine has only 2 memory slots. My question is what is the maximum memory this machine will support? Also, I am wondering what kind of video card slot it has. My old PCI video CARDS are too big for the slots on this machine.(Nvidia GeForce 2 MX and a GeForce MX4000)If it GOES online then for memory I would try crucial and use their hardware scanner.

http://www.crucial.com/

As for the graphics card... You might have to take a picture of the motherboard if you don't know slot types.

ISA: Now obsolete, I don't expect to see any of these on that computer. Maybe the odd one though.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Industry_Standard_Architecture

PCI: Rapidly becoming obsolete, depending on the motherboard size I would expect to see 2-5 of these on that computer. (This should be what your graphics cards will plug into)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conventional_PCI

AGP: Now obsolete, You may have one of these again depending on the motherboard type.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agp

PCI-E: Industry norm now, however I don't expect to see any of these in there as it wasn't invented until 2004.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pci-e

I am going on the premise that your PC is one of the Compaq Presario 6000 series, that was around at APPROXIMATELY the year 2000.Thank you Accessless. Will try the Crucial tool. As for the graphics card I would suspect AGP as my standard PCI cards don't fit.You may have onboard video if you're plugged into the VGA connector located on the motherboard.Yes, it does have onboard video. However, after using Crucial's tool and determining that this rig is maxed @ 512 mb I decided it wasn't worth bumping up the video card. Amazon has shipped my new psu anyway, so hopefully I'll have that in LESS than a week and have my main 'puter back up and running. Thanx for the help fellas!

I have two computers. One that I've PROGRESSIVELY built by adding new parts one at a time (Originally an HP Pavilion Elite) and another that I have had for about 5 years now (An emachine that I don't know the brand or official title of). I want to PUT a 2nd graphics driver in my HP, which already has a ATI RADEON HD 4350. The emachine has an ATI RADEON XPRESS 200 in it. I was wondering if I couple put the XPRESS 200 in the HP until I could afford a better one...Or if it wouldn't do anything and wouldn't be worth it. Any opinions or help welcome! I'm new to this site, so I'm sorry if I posted in the wrong section! THANKS for the help, though! IMHO putting money into any COMPUTER that is over three years old is not a very good idea. The best graphics cards now have new requirements for the motherboards. You haven to be sure the motherboard meets the specs.
On the other hand, replacing a wimpy graphics card with a better choice gives some improvement for games, but not much else.

My recommendation is save lour money for a new motherboard and CPU. That is where things are really moving. Graphics cards have not changed a whole lot in the past year. But the new motherboards are way extreme.

But that is my thought. Maybe somebody else has better idea.

I have bought a Hama M1130( I think it's SIMILAR to the M580 model ) LASER Mouse and after installing the mouse driver,from the disc that came with it and from Hama website, several times my mouse buttons 6 and 7 are not working although I tried mapping them to all the POSSIBLE items from the list.

Here is a picture of the mouse : http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41oUoOrTl6L._SL210_.jpg
and here is a picture of the installed mouse driver: http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/84/moused.jpg.

My PC configuration is:
PROCESSOR: AMX x4 935
Motherboard: ASUS - M4A78LT-M
RAM : 4 GB DDR3
Operating systems: Windows 7 and Windows Xp ( I've tried the mouse on both and still nothing).

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Hi Guys,

Last week, I purchased a motherboard with onboard (i5 platform) video card. It has a D-sub connection + DVI. It also has one HDMI port. Is there any way I can use multiple monitors with using only the onboard video card or do I have to add an ADDITIONAL pci-e video card? This young lady just does not understand the CONCEPT of multiple monitors. I do not use it for gaming, so any suggestions on a reasonable priced card for this use if I have to purchase a video card?

Please Help and thanks,

Mary WellsYou'll just have to try it and/or consult the Owners Manual. With VGA, DVI & HDMI, there's a good chance, depending on the OS & the onboard graphics software.Check the properties of your display in Windows.
Right click on a BLANK area.

Under SETTINGS mine shows I have dual display hardware. Just need to put a monitor on the right port. and check the box.If you've never installed dual monitors, it might not show up at all until the 2nd monitor has been connected & software installed. Since I have done it previously & my 2nd monitor is off, it looks almost the same as Geek's except all boxes & 2nd monitor are "greyed out". My monitors are very different in size & resolutions are different on both.It has what is called a D-sub connection + DVI and of course an HDMI Port. Can two of those three be used and if so which ones? If not, can you recommend a reasonable priced video card that will run two at one time?Here is the motherboard I purchased, maybe that might help you to help me:


ASRock H67M-GE LGA 1155 Intel H67 Quote from: MaryWells on January 24, 2011, 02:29:51 PM

Here is the motherboard I purchased, maybe that might help you to help me:
ASRock H67M-GE LGA 1155 Intel H67

It has what is called a D-sub connection + DVI and of course an HDMI Port. Can two of those three be used and if so which ones? If not, can you recommend a reasonable priced video card that will run two at one time?

You test it & let us know how it works out.

It has what is called a D-sub connection + DVI and of course an HDMI Port. Can two of those three be used and if so which ones? If not, can you recommend a reasonable priced video card that will run two at one time?

Can two of those three be used and if so which ones? If not, can you recommend a reasonable priced video card that will run two at one time?

NO. Two monitors only.

They are correct far more often than they aren't. You might want to look into things a little bit more carefully.

I'll give CMOS clear a shot. Would I hear beeps through the normal pc speakers? My original and new case don't have a case speaker.

Possible mobo is doa if ram doesn't solve the problem?

A friend accidentally pulled out the various chassis based switch connection pins of switches and LEDs from his motherboard. His motherboard is manufactured by HIS, an abhorred company which doesn't seem to have a website. He brought his system from a local dealer (these people buy out stuff and do the custom building job for us) and the dealer did not supply the manual for the motherboard. How will he put those pins back in place?QUOTE from: Ashutosh32 on October 29, 2010, 11:35:44 PM

HIS, an abhorred company which doesn't seem to have a website.

He brought his system from a local dealer (these people buy out stuff and do the custom building job for us) and the dealer did not supply the manual for the motherboard.

1. Google "HIS motherboards". Notice http://www.hisdigital.com
..

Or... simply ask the dealer for the manual. Or ask the employee who assembles them to draw a diagram on a piece of paper. Or study a similar computer.

A friend accidentally pulled out the various chassis based switch connection pins of switches and LEDs from his motherboard.

If there's a more helpful advice, welcome!

Pay dealer to repair computer damaged by user foolishness. Learn lesson.

I've yet to encounter a machine that doesn't silk-screen label the front panel connector block to indicate what goes where...

A "1" might be silkscreened (printed) next to Pin-1 and/or the solder pad might be square instead of round. Odd numbered pins are on one side, evens on the other. As BC said, it's always silk-screened on the board. Polarity is not an issue with the PWR SW and the RST SW. If you reverse any of the others, it will do no damage, the indicator light won't work.

Some connectors are polarised. (can only connect one way)

Not these.

I somehow GOT the very nasty White Smoke virus on my XP Desktop last Friday. I was able to clean it out with Kaspersky, however now I cannot get my Print Spooler RUNNING.

The Spoolsv.exe file was missing from WINDOWS\system32, and the ImagePath was missing from Spooler in registry. I have copied Spoolsv from my XP LAPTOP, and added ImagePath (Type = REG_EXPAND_SZ & ValueData = %SystemRoot%\system32\spoolsv.exe) to my registry.

I have went over and over this and still cannot get the Print Spooler started, as there is still no Path To Executable listed. Any Suggestions?

Thanks much!Maybe you already try this:
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows/help/printer-problems-in-windows
If you already did that, what errors did you find?

EDIT:
The spoolsv files from Microsoft are:
C:\WINDOWS\system32\spoolsv.exe
C:\WINDOWS\system32\spoolss.dll
Quote

Virus Precaution:
We've been able to find several viruses that run as spoolsv to trick you.
http://process.networktechs.com/Spoolsv.exe.php

Hi!

Currently I'm using an Acer Aspire M1641 which came with the following:

- Intel E5200
- Geforce G100 (I upgraded it to an EVGA geforce 450)
- MICROSTAR motherboard with a Nvidia MCP73 Chipset
- a 250 watt power supply (I upgraded it to an Aerocool E78-730 watt )
- 2x2gb of ddr2

Now I'm planning to UPGRADE my CPU, motherboard and ram. I'm planning to use this:

- AMD PHENOM II X6 1055T
- ASRock 880GM-LE (http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=880GM-LE)
- GeIL DIMM 4 GB DDR3-1333 Kit

This should be the end result:

- AMD Phenom II X6 1055T
- ASRock 880GM-LE
- GeIL DIMM 4 GB DDR3-1333 Kit
- Aerocool E78-730 watt (http://www.aerocool.com.tw/index.php/products/power-supply/38-eco-friendly-series/54-e78-730)
- EVGA geforce 450

I did some research about all of the above and found out the MB has an onboard vga: ATI Radeon HD 4250. Is this going to be a problem while installing my EVGA 450? Or are they going to work together?

Some other questions:

Is the MB going to fit in my case?
Are there going to be PROBLEMS with the power supply and MB?
Or are there any other problems regarding this setup?

Thanks for your time!So your Acer won't be an Acer anymore after the upgrade. Don't expect Windows to boot after CHANGING the motherboard & CPU. You version of Windows Probably won't install because it was intended for the Acer.

You'd be far better off building a new computer, all you'll have left from the old one is the case & drives, the least expensive components.Quote

the MB has an onboard vga: ATI Radeon HD 4250. Is this going to be a problem while installing my EVGA 450? Or are they going to work together?

Hi when i START computer it will ot STAY on just starts the fan and stops if i dissconnect the cpu cable it keeps running .When i press the power button it starts when i release it stopsI wouldn't disconnect any cables/connectors on a running PC...
What happened prior to this ?
Any new hardware installed ?
Quote

When i press the power button it starts when i release it stops

Hi when i start computer it will ot stay on just starts the fan and stops

if i dissconnect the cpu cable it keeps running

I'm trying to seek and squeeze the most performance out of this old computer of mine on a limited budget . Any suggestions of what i should upgrade first vs priority/price.

AMD Athlon XP 3200+
AsusTek A7N8X-X MB
1 Gig OCZ DDR-SDRAM PC-3200(200MHz) - [DDR-400]
NVIDIA GeForce FX 5700 (AGP)What particular problems are you experiencing with the system?playing games like CS 1.6...i get 99 fps until theres lots of action and shooting happening all at once...this is playing online also. IT was drop down to 30 and around that....really notice it when someone has thrown a smoke grenade outProbably has more to do with your connection...rather than the hardware..
Visit speedtest and do 3 -4 passes over a 1 Hour period...i did a speed test on there...i was getting anywhere from 17 - 22 Mbps and an Upload from 2 - 3 Mbps...so im guessing those aren't a factor at all. im thinking its possibly the video card...ive read alot of reviews on it since this post and maybe thats possibly bottlenecking my systemQuote from: DPalmz on May 26, 2011, 05:21:27 AM

...NVIDIA GeForce FX 5700 (AGP)

Maybe... MAYBE... another 1GB of RAM and a slightly better video card might help. It'll will probably be a minimal difference though, especially if you're running Windows XP because 1GB is enough for most anything on XP.

In my opinion, you'd be better off saving that money and then some for a new system.

a new system for running CS 1.6, which is a mod for half-life released in 1998?

Oh... got sidetracked by his later post... his first post definitely entails everything you mentioned. (I was thinking that they <only> wanted to make CS 1.6 faster).

Hello
I have a AMD 64 live video card and i NEED to upgrade it i think, as i bought a new game and when i try to load it it says cannot load game: failed to set up graphics system so can anyone help me upgrade my video card, thankyou.What help do you require?

Choosing 1? Installing it?

If choosing it, download and install speccy and run. then post the readout here (screen shot is PROBABLY best). Tell us what you wnat it for ie, gaming, etc. and more SPECIFICALLY what apps i.e. Half LIFE 2 etc. Photoshop CS5 etc.

Tell as much info re. the motherboard, and power supply as you can.

Installing them is relatively simple after that.


Turn off and unplug your computer then open the case.

Use an antistaic strap (Couple of quid of ebay) remove the old graphic card and bung it in an antistaic bag.
Get your new card slot it in, screw it in and then clip any power connectors required.


close up reconnect and turn on.

Install included drivers, restart and you should be done.

Hope this helps,

i just purchased a monitor (Dell P2411H 24" 1920 x 1080) and noticed that there was a SECTION of STREAKS that were on the monitor.
upon noticing this, i TRIED cleaning off the screen, but realized that it wasn't on the surface (but internal). these streaks are visible whether the monitor is off or on, computer on or off.

after calling technical support, they suggested i unplug and replug all of the cables. when i followed their instructions, the streaks disappeared from the previous location and moved to another section of the monitor.
today, Dell sent us a brand new monitor after we complained. this monitor seems to have the same exact issue.

has anybody else SEEN this before? any suggestions?
(sorry if i made a MULTIPLE thread; the post wasn't going through)

picture of this issue.I had this with a different monitor. Often it is caused by video drivers combined with the type of connection. HDMI connections tend to do it more often. Also running multiple monitors on some video cards can cause it if you have two different size monitors/ two different resolutions. Try using DVI if you are using HDMI and using a different driver version. My video card requires an older driver to run my monitors the way I want.

If this doesn't help, post PC specs (video card is most important but all specs help).To me this reflects a manufacturing defect in the monitor given this statement by the O/P "whether the monitor is off ". I cannot envisage a situation where ANY KIND of cable connection could be at the root of a problem where the monitor is OFF. Return this one also until they provide you with one that works properly. truenorth

Hi, My name is Alejandro and I want to know if there is a step by step PROCEDURE on how to safely store computer equipment to AVOID any damage like sunlight, dust, scratches, ETC..
THANKS,

AlejandroIf you have the original packaging that it came in, then I WOULD recommend using that.

I was reading this sentence:

Floppy Disk CONTROLLER (FDC) uses I/O address range 370 to 37Fh.

I know Fh is an abbreviation, but what does it stand for. It deals with input and output, but I still am lost.370 to 37F is hexidecimal which is counting in Base16
001101110000 to 001101111111 in Binary (Base 2)
880 to 895 in Decimal (Base10)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HexadecimalQuote from: Tech_wannabe on May 27, 2011, 12:34:39 PM

I know Fh is an abbreviation, but what does it stand for. It deals with input and output, but I still am lost.

According to very recent research i did for a problem of my own re screen resolution i have found numerous advisors stating that "frequency " changes on LCD screens do NOT appreciably change things on an LCD display and are NOT recommended by LCD manufacturers. They were quite critical to CRT "flicker" issues but those issues are NOT present in LCD units. I would suggest for the purposes of experimentation removing the KVM switch from the equation and trying a direct attachment to each of the PCs to see if a change occurs. truenorth

I have an acer aspire 5315 and i dropped my LAPTOP on the floor with it turned off. Then once I restarted the pc it didn't display ANYTHING and after about 5 to 10 seconds it shutoff please help. I am not sure which hardware it is the fan was loose but i already screwed it back in.Remove and re-seat both the HDD and your CDROM drive...
Do this with the BATTERY removed and all power disconnected.ok i installed the hdd but i cannot seem to get the dvd drive out :S btw it is still having the problem Try reseating the CPU and memory. By the sounds of it the POST is failing.

Can you try linking up to external monitor to see if you can get any more info?

Are you getting any audible bleeps?

ok i'll do that but no there is not any audios it just doesen't display anything and turns off i have no tried the cpu thing yet but i will make sure to do it.You dropped it. Who knows what broke? Hard drive, other components? If I were you I'd take it to a shop or send it to the manufacturer for evaluation and repair.Ok if that is the CASE it really doesen't matter because i have plenty more computer .Fine.

OK so my friend brought me his broken pc to fix and heres the problem: When I turn it on it beeps once then stops beeps once and again. I tried to change the RAM chip it still did the same thing for various chiips. Does that mean the motherboard is dead?It means he should not have brought it to you to fix.

Go to the website of the bios provider and check the beep codes.The motherboard should have a brand and model printed on the PCB, the manufacturer should have the BIOS type and POSSIBLE Bleep codes listed.

QUOTE from: Allan on November 05, 2010, 03:48:54 PM

It means he should not have brought it to you to fix....

A little harshly worded don't you think?

No

Bad day? We all have our days of learning.

It means he should not have brought it to you to fix.

Bad day? We all have our days of learning.