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When I order on line and USE the retailers print button to print my receipt most of the time the receipt prints on two PAGES even though I reduce the size. Is there a way to SAVE paper and get the receipt to print on one page without HIGHLIGHTING and selecting "print SELECTION only" on my print menu? Thanks This may solve your issue if you have the required software.
http://word.tips.net/Pages/T001838_Multiple_Pages_Per_Sheet.html
truenorth

Hi,

Just need to KNOW what graphic card slot my P5S-MX SE motherboard has so
I can upgrade my useless SiS Mirage 3 graphic card, and if you have any recommendations,
COMPUTER specs as below

Computer Manufacturer ASUSTeK Computer INC.
Computer Model P5S-MX SE
Operating System (O/S) Microsoft Windows XP Home EDITION Service PACK 3
Operating System Build (O/S)(build 2600)
Operating System (version) 5.1.2600
System RAM 1.9 GB
CD or DVD Device HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GSA-H55N
System Hard DRIVE Overview
System Total Storage Size:298.1 GB
Local Disk C:298.1 GB
Used space:240.9 GB
Free Space:57.2 GB
GRAPHICS INFORMATION
Graphics Product [1]SiS Mirage 3 Graphics
Video Memory220.3 MB
MOTHERBOARD INFORMATION
Manufacturer Intel
Model P5S-MX SE
AA NumberRev x.xx
BIOS VendorAmerican Megatrends Inc.
BIOS Version0106
BIOS Release Date04/25/07
System Memory1.9 GB
Built-in Audio Driver Componentnot detected
Built-in Audio Driver Version5.10.0.5377
PROCESSOR INFORMATION
ManufacturerIntel
Model Intel(R) Pentium(R) D CPU 3.00GHzᆛ

Intel Processor analysis toolsIntel Processor analysis tools

CPU Speed3.0 GHz
Link to Processor SpecificationLink to Processor Specification


http://en.kioskea.net/guide/948750-asus-p5s-mx-se

Looks to me like it uses PCI-E.

hi guys..I tried to boot the pc the other day and it did 1 long beep and 2 short beeps and it wouldn't boot up, Ever since then it has booted sometimes and not others. I cant FIND my manual to find the codes for the beeping. I was told that 1 long and 2 short usually MEANS memory problem, Is that usually the case ? cheers guys Go to the website of your bios provider for a list of their beep codes.I had a look on the GIGABYTE site and I am convinced its graphics problem. The monitor goes onto standby and I cant see anything then I have to reboot which I then get the beeps, Can the graphics cards cause beeps while booting?Yes1 long and 2 short is a video card error on a Gigabyte board with an Award bios. Most likely, your video card is not inserted PROPERLY, not powered properly, or dead/dying.

Check that the card is inserted securely and completely into the slot and, if REQUIRED by the card, a power cable has been attached to it. Even if it appears to be in correctly, try completely removing it and putting it back in.

I don't have an 8-core, 12GB RAM, water-cooled laptop like everyone else seems to, but I've cleaned and optimized two dual-core laptops identically (defrag, full scan and clean, disabled Windows wanting to run everything at startup, set high performance, APPEARANCE for best, ReadyBoost - everything), but the older, slower TOSHIBA now starts instantly after bootup and runs fast, where my HP-Compaq sits on the welcome screen for 18 SECONDS and is slow in general. I'm thinking the 2.1 Ghz 2GB RAM Hitachi architecture on the HP is just no good at running Windows 7 64-bit, where the Toshiba - half the RAM and slower CPU - running Vista (appearance supposed to hit the processor too hard) works like a dream. Am I right about the motherboard being a mismatch for the (preinstalled) OS, is 7 'just like that', or have I missed something else (and no, I haven't uninstalled anything I didn't add)?Without knowing the exact specifications of each machine, we can offer no recommendations.Quote

I don't have an 8-core, 12GB RAM, water-cooled laptop like everyone else

18 seconds

I just bought a new motherboard, but i just realized that the cables on my current power supply are too short. And does not have the required plugs to RUN the motherboard (8 Pin CPU Plug) (6 Pin Pci-E Plug) it has both but they're not compatible with the board for some reason and the power supply is getting old anyway. so im wondering if these two are compatible with each other?

Motherboard: EVGA nForce 780i
http://www.evga.com/articles/385.asp

Power Supply: RAIDMAX HYBRID 2 RX-530SS 530W Power
Supply http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817152028&cm_re=sli_power_supply-_-17-152-028-_-Product

I'm planning to run SLI on this and hope not to have to buy another power supply for that purpose.

ThanksDid you got the video card manufacturers site to check what psu's are 'certified' to run with the video card ?

Then all you have to do is get one of those, or one with similar specs.Quote from: hcooke on December 10, 2010, 11:34:46 AM

Did you got the video card manufacturers site to check what psu's are 'certified' to run with the video card ?

Then all you have to do is get one of those, or one with similar specs.

Can't tell is has the 8-pin P4 12V connector. It could have a 4 or 6 or 8 or an adapter. Mobo needs 8-pin. PSU is 37A (20+17) of 12V, look for more.

lets say i get that and i buy a separate 8 pin CPU adapter.. will it work?

The video card should have a specification for 12V power.

yes the video card is a BFG 9600gt that requires a 6 pin PCI-E power source

Then you should buy a PSU that accomodates those needs instead of jury=rigging one...

If you're looking for someone here to tell you it's okay for you to use the psu you have, then allright, "use what you have". Feel better?

Ok ill start by listing my system specs:

Intel core i5 3.2ghz
4gb RAM
Windows 7
ATI radeon HD 5500 series
*********************
TV- LOGIK LCD TV ***LINK*** http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?hl=en&rlz=1C1DSGL_enGB428GB428&q=logik+hd+ready+lcd+19inch&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=16922295863805658213&sa=X&ei=toDXTcibDISGhQfuzLnPBg&ved=0CD8Q8gIwAw#
***********
Ok so when i connect my tv to my pc through a hdmi to hdmi not dvi ADAPTER or ANYTHING, i get an awful quality but i get sound perfectly, so i tried all the available resolutions but still no luck, i CAN read and see the screen but it just looks well not hd, hard to explain, im afraid changing res is as far as my skills go.
So any help would be greatly aprreciated
thanks
tom
The link says:
Quote

[£120 new from 2 sellers
The Logik L19DIGB10 19" HD Ready LCD TV is a great-value television with a High Definition screen. This LCD television offers a useful array of features at a remarkably low price! For example, in addition to the digital Freeview tuner for watching your favourite TV programmes, the Logik L19DIGB10 includes a USB port for adding USB storage to record and playback programmes at your convenience. CONNECTIVITY options are also surprisingly generous in the Logik L19DIGB10 19" HD Ready LCD TV . An HDMI connector supports high-quality pictures from a Blu-ray player or modern game console, while component, COMPOSITE, and SCART connectors support older devices. Affordable need not mean cheap, as the Logik L19DIGB10 19" HD Ready LCD TV proves! | Electronics > TV > LCD TVs
/quote]
Basically it is a HD ready TV. The HDMI connector is for the output of a Blu-rat player.
The manual for the card you have should explain what options you have to pick.
http://www.filetypepdf.net/234/ati-radeon%E2%84%A2-hd-5500-manual/
The manual specifies what adapters and connectors you can use, but there does not seem to be specific info about how to adjust the quality. This may have to do with which driver you have installed. Have you adjusted resolution for the external monitor using the utilities provided in Windows 7 for display options?

Hi

i have an external HD which can be seen by my windows XP but when i try to open it i get a message NEEDS FORMATTING.The disk is almost full and i want to try and save these files.I tried a"save files" program called PC inspector,it failed,,i also tried a linux utility Knoppix,it cant SEE the disk at all.Any ideas?Was this drive and the data that is on it always associated with the computer that has the O/S XP installed or has it been brought from another computer with another operating system? Have you recently DONE anything on the XP computer that has changed anything such as installing SP 3? truenorthTry Recuva...
Although if PC Inspecter couldn't do it chances are your data is un-recoverable...Quote from: truenorth on December 12, 2010, 09:11:28 AM

Was this drive and the data that is on it always associated with the computer that has the O/S XP installed or has it been brought from another computer with another operating system? Have you recently done anything on the XP computer that has changed anything such as installing SP 3? truenorth

I am a new player here, so excuse me if i make a mess of this. I have a Sony Vaiol laptop and am running vista. I haven't used it for a lot other than internet, so data etc.is limited and space is good.
my problem started suddenly when i turned on pc and a black screen with the error MESSAGE,"disk read error, press cntrl+alt+del to continuie."
didnt do it! Wouldnt do anyuthing.
Finally, I acquired legal sony recovery disks. And when the screen to choose operating system comes up, there is none so it says apply drivers and IM lost, I have no familiarity with hard disk drivers so....but did bring up command prompt in recovery and through luck and lil else, i happened on chkdsk and found it to all check out but it does say NTFS not FAT 32, but found no problems. Now Im dumb completely!!! Help if you can.Sony Vaiol laptop.
Has problems of its own. It is not piratical to give you guidelines on this laptop. There have been many issues about how to repair and maintain it. The recovery discs should have everything you need.

Here is a bit of advice, not really my own, try to sell the unit to somebody that thinks they know how to fix it. Then go buy a new or used laptop that will SUIT hour needs.
The cost of ownership of any laptop is higher that many new users expect. Some more than others.

This may sound like a rant to put down Sony. It is not. Sony has made their own bed of nails. Look at this article from last year:
Sony Vaio Laptop Recall: Everything You Need To Know
Read the article. You decide.Geek isn't ranting, he's absolutely RIGHT. From my experience, Sony laptops are trouble. They're not worth the extra expense you pay for having the Sony name on it.

As for your recovery disks, some laptops have multiple disks for recovers. In some cases, like my HP and my girlfriend's Toshiba, the OS was on one disk and the drivers were on another. This varies from brand to brand and model to model, but if you're putting in the disk and it's saying something about drivers and asking you to choose the OS, it might be a driver only disk.

Did the computer come with Windows and does it have a Windows COA? (usually on the bottom of the laptop, looks like the picture below)


Image from keznews.comhave you tried chkdsk /f or /r?
Ignore the above post.

First step, reinstall video driver.

What do you mean by "plenty of drivers"?
Normally, there is only one correct driver.

i have an 8 year old computer so i went to a store and bought a new graphics card. i took it home and it fits in fine but when i plug my computer into it it says no computer input. the fan is running on it and i thought maybe i need the drivers so i plugged the computer into the second SPOT that i can hook it up to and picture comes in fine. thing pops up on my computer saying new hardware found so i went through that and nothing happened so i put in the disk and when i open it it says it cant detect the graphics card.there for as far as i KNOW i cant GET the drivers on for my xfx hd 4550 graphics card.
prior to me putting in the graphics card there was actually no graphics card in it yet there is software for a graphics card on the computer. what i have my computer right now hooked up to something that is inbreed into the mother board the computer works fine that way but now i have to spots that my computer may hook up to and i don't know if that is a problem.

PLEASE help corwin11,Welcome to the CH forums. This is a very hard post to FOLLOW. Here you claim " there was actually no graphics card in it" Then you Claim as well " bought a new graphics card." and " it says no computer input". then so i plugged the computer into the second spot that i can hook it up to". I don't know if you have a functioning graphics card or not. If you don't as it sounds like is the case then HOW are you able to see a display? What is this 2nd "spot" you refer to? Given that it is an old computer did you verify before you bought the "new" graphics card that your computer is capable of handling it? Tell us more about your computer please. truenorthAll I can understand is that computer has onboard video, new card was purchased (no reason given as to why or what type, i.e. AGP, PCI-e, PCI), computer won't display at POST.

Maxtor Personal Storage Serial number 3200.
I lost the cable that connexts the Maxtor to a powerpoint (electricity). Where can I get one ?Thank you.Quote from: C.Schiffer on May 22, 2011, 03:13:17 AM

Maxtor Personal Storage Serial number 3200.
I lost the cable that connexts the Maxtor to a powerpoint (electricity). Where can I get one ?Thank you.

ST, It may be just my browser --i use Opera 11.11 (latest version) i am not displaying any pictures in your reply #1. I do have some problems occasionally with pictures (usually misplaced on some web sites- also known to the web site author as an issue with Opera) so maybe this is another case of that. Others may wish to comment. truenorth

My Toshiba Satellite A105-2712 running Win XP keyboard has stopped working except for four keys in a row, 8, I, K, and , , Weird right?
I have tried finding a kbdclass.sys file on the net to no avail and there is no such driver on my recovery disc that came with this piece of #@*^. It is like Microsoft has stopped recognizing Windows XP, go FIGURE. Short of formatting my entire harddrive (which I do NOT want to do) how can I fix this? I have eliminated the drivers in the Hardware Manager and it has reloaded apparently the same drivers because it doesn't work after a wizard run. An external keyboard works fine but I don't want to carry this with me forever. I have not spilled any liquids in it and I did not SIT on it and after 3 years of reasonably good service this is what I am rewarded with. Any suggestions gents on this perplexing conundrum. Thanks ahead.It could just be a hardware issue as keyboard pad needs replacement. Quote from: dhinds on May 21, 2011, 07:53:37 PM

keyboard has stopped working except for four keys in a row, 8, I, K, and , , Weird right?

after 3 years

Hi all. I GOT a laptop that I left in the cold car overnight. After bringing it in, I turned it on before it warmed up. It booted up fine but then it froze and I made a mistake and took the battery out and unplugged it. Now it does a CONTINUOUS power cycle (on for 3 secs, off for 5 secs). I hear the fan and the HDD trying to come on, but nothing happens. It just KEEPS turning on and off. If I hit the Esc key or Ctrl>Alt>DEL, it will stay on but no HDD activity light and no video but the fan will continue to run. Oh yeah, before it froze, the window that I had open became full of squiggly lines. Did I short out the video card or what? Hard to say...
Try it with AC power only and the battery removed.I tried that before and I got nothing. No beeps, sound or nothing. I think the mobo is toast

At church we have an over head projector that we use for the words for 0ur worship songs.

It works great when we use Power point.

But when we try to use video and have it on both the computer monitor and the over head projector

we are only able to see the desktop back GROUND on the projector screen.

If we switch the monitor and projector cables on the back of the pc we see only the desktop background
on the pc screen, but we are able to see all the applications and icons on the projector screen.

We have the system on a Dell 1100 Dimension. It has 2.5 G on the processor and 2 G on the ram.

What you are seeing is an extended desktop. Basically, it's made your desktop bigger, and you will find that if you drag THINGS off the side of the screen (usually the right side, but can vary with settings) that they will appear on the other desktop.

There is a second setting, usually called something like "Clone" mode. In this setting, it doesn't extended the desktop. INSTEAD, it creates an exact copy of what you're seeing on the computer screen on the projector as well. However, DEPENDING on your computer screen size, there may be some distortion. If the computer screen is 16:9 and the projector is 4:3, one of them will appear distorted in clone mode.

If you don't know how to change this setting, let us know what operating system you're using and we can help you change it.I tried dragging things around the desk top of the pc monitor and I still nothing on the projection screen but desktop back ground.

We have XP home edition on the pc.

Now when I take the graphics card CABLE and plugin into my pastors laptop - Dell Inspiron - Windows 7 it works great what I see on the laptop I see on the projection screen.

By the way thanks for the quick response.

My laptop kept overheating and snapping off. Among other things I checked the hard drive free space. I had less than 600 MB free [out of 37.2G capacity]. I started deleting things and moving things onto a flash drive. I found a two-year old file backup put on my computer by a Norton tech. I deleted it and freed up over a 1GB of space. The laptop still kept overheating, but at least I had that 1GB+ of free space.

In the past few days I had about 2 days of blissfully long computer sessions, fooling around with my FILES and searching the net. I added very little to my files and haven't knowingly downloaded any programs. Then I got a message for Microsoft Security Essentials saying a new version was available. I downloaded it, installed it, did a quick scan - and my computer overheated and snapped off. After letting it cool I turned it on and checked the hard drive capacity. I'm back down to less than 900 MB of space. I've checked the Installed Programs and there's nothing I don't recognize, and MS Security Essentials certainly doesn't take up a gig. Is there some other place I'm supposed to look to find out what's clogging my hard drive?

By the way, I couldn't think what to name this post. Saying the space was mysteriously TAKEN up makes it sound like it was taken up in a UFO.you might try erase by (heidi) and erase the free space or ccleaner ( google it!) and use the drive wiper (free space only!) and see if that clears things up.Why are you suggesting HDD wiping tools for this issue ? ?

You can use an app like treesize to see what is taking up space: http://www.jam-software.com/freeware/

BTW, maybe it's just me, but your avatar is VERY annoying Quote from: Allan on JANUARY 28, 2011, 06:37:46 AM

treesize

BTW, maybe it's just me, but your avatar is VERY annoying

I have a Gateway M-1634u with ATI Radon X1270 mobile video running Windows Vista with 1 GB ram, and 128 MB of shared video memory.

This morning, I was using the computer just fine. I shut everything down, put it in my computer case, and went to the library. When I TURNED the computer on at the Library, the screen would not come on, so I thought maybe the inverter had gone bad. However, looking at the screen at an angle under high light did not show the screen working just not lit, so I was not sure. I went back home and attached the computer to an external monitor and the external worked. I closed the lid on the computer, the computer went to sleep, and when I reopened the lid, the laptop screen CAME on normally. I shut down the computer and rebooted. now the screen comes up, but on the black screen at the beginning of boot up shows yellow, the black background windows boot up is yellow, and once windows opens, the taskbar shows normal but there are strange colorings in some places, and some white area's when using Chrome have lots of blue lines in them. I don't know if the video card is going, the screen is going, or what. I just discovered if I adjust the brightness, it helps a little bit. The brighter the screen, the more the distortion is on NON black, the brighter, the less the distortion is on the black.Given this statement " the external worked" if by worked you mean worked normally without any of the issues on the screen as compared to your notebook screen . Then your issue is less likely to be with the video card and more likely to be with the screen of the computer. Have you tried varying the screen resolution? truenorth

i have an older Sony Vaio Desktop PCV-RS320 with a 2.6ghz Processor. its stock from the factory. I would like to find an upgrade but have never really messed with processors before. i also have an ASUS board with a 3.0ghz processor and i swapped them but it didnt boot up so i guess its the wrong pin type socket etc?

what can i upgrade to? i want to max it out! all i can find on NCIX.com is duo cores and quad cores.

the sad part is that this was my girlfriends computer and she absolutely will not let me sell it lol. but she will let me upgrade it. "but honey its SOOOOO OLD!" and i cant afford a newer computer right now :/

thanks in advance!
mattAre your serious?
When you got our system, did you plan an upgrade path?
IMO, there is no piecemeal** upgrade path for a Sony
No joking, here is the best upgrade path for you.
1. Sell your Sony.
2. Build you own from recommendations of our experts.


Quote

** piece·meal/ˈpēsˌmēl/
Adjective: Characterized by unsystematic partial measures taken over a period of time.
Wikipedia - Dictionary.com

I value your opinion but there must be a way to squeeze more life out of this thing.

Its in excellent shape and runs almost everything i want it to.

i cant afford a NEW machine for a while

and i want to atleast make this one better while im stuck with it!

Unfortunately, cost-cutting measures such as integrated graphics and a slow memory hamper performance. Righting the configured wrongs, as well as adding a display (Sony sells that separately), will add to the VAIO PCV-RS320's $1,099 price, making comparable alternatives from Dell, Gateway, and HP more attractive.

Processors are generally NOT upgradeable on branded computers because they tailor that particular BIOS for that specific CPU & the BIOS will not recognize anything except that one CPU or maybe one close to it in the series. Put the old CPU back in the Vaio & hope it still functions. Just saying it's a 2.8GHz is not enough.
See if you can find what you have here: http://www.cpu-world.com/info/charts.html

Salmon trout you take the time to quote peoples words to make them eat them?

You can fit 4 x 512 MB in there

Only the foolish ones. Get 'em down! They are delicious! And good for you. I gave you the only realistic upgrade advice you're gonna get.

thanks but will it run slower of faster with too much memory installed. i currently have 2.5gigs installed and its running fine. does exceeding 2gigs slow it down>? 2.5 is showing up in my system just fine.

i have an older Sony Vaio Desktop PCV-RS320 with a 2.6ghz Processor. its stock from the factory

i currently have 2.5gigs installed and its running fine.

Product Features

* Sony VAIO PCV-RS320 Desktop
* 2.60-GHz Pentium 4 (Hyper-Threading), 512 MB RAM
* 120 GB Hard Drive, DVD-RW/CD-RW Drive

Processor, Memory, and Motherboard

* Hardware Platform: PC
* Processor: 2.6 GHz Intel Pentium 4
* System Bus Speed: 800 MHz
* Number of Processors: 1
* RAM: 512 MB
* RAM Type: DDR SDRAM
* Max RAM: 2 GB
* L2 Cache: 512 KB

Even adding an entry-level graphics card would go a LONG way toward speeding up this system.

Hello, I'm new to the site and so far it's been really good. I hope I could get some help. I have 8GB of ram installed on my system. The performance tab says that only 1.5 is in use. Can I higher it to get more performance and is it a good idea? Also Will lowering virtual memory raise the amount of physical memory being used?

Thank You!Do not worry about system performance if your not having any lagging problem unless there is a need for a particular program.
You might wanna read here how it works --> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paging
*Right-click My Computer icon,Properties, on General tab, what is the current RAM specified?Thanks for the reply. It says installed memory (RAM) is 8.00 GB.I agree that having 6.5 Gb free is odd. What OS are you USING? And in the Processes tab of Task Manager, how many processes are loaded?Quote from: stealthninja2 on January 28, 2011, 09:31:53 PM

The performance tab says that only 1.5 is in use

He's referring the the performance tab in task manager

I've ACTUALLY used this cam many times before and I've never had any PROBLEMS with it until now. I've tested it on my xbox and it works so its only not working on my PC. When I used a site like Chatroulette.com it used an area of my computer screen as my 'default cam' which was actually kinda cool at first because I was able to show people a youtube video as my chat screen.

I've tried uninstalling then reinstalling the hardware but its still having the same problems. I'm not a computer expert so i'd APPRECIATE if you could give me as much details as possible on how to fix this.Could someone PLEASE help me? I've been searching all over but I can't find any solutions. PLEASE HELP ME!This is a forum and not a chat site so you have to be patient.Shouting in CAPITAL letters... bumping... (after 16 minutes!) he'll have to be very patient indeed after that beginning.

Well, as was asked above maybe a picture will help - hard to ENVISION what you're talking about. Give safe mode a shot and see if the screen is any better. If not, my GUESS is you probably need a new video card or there's something WRONG with the lcd screen.As Soon As I Can Get It Started I'll Get A PictureMore questions.
Does the OP live in an area with high temperatures?
Maye high humidity?
Has the battery ever been replaced? A failing battery may cause the symptoms.
Has the CMOS battery been replaces?
Has the Laptop been cleaned of dust and dirt?


No To The High Temps
Some Humidity But Not For A Few Months
No Been Usin The Same Battery For The Last 5 Years
Don't Know What CMOS Is So I'm Gonna Say No For This
I CLEAN It Out Bout Once Every Three MonthsQuote

Sorry This Is The WAY I've Always Typed, But I'll Try Not To Do It Anymore.

Hello,
Last Thursday I cam back from Uni to find that my computer would not turn on. I tend to leave it with the PSU on and the motherboard on standby. When I PRESSED the power button nothing happened. Initially I thought that this was my housemates attempt at a joke, so I checked all the basics such as the PSU being switched on and plugged into the mains. These were all fine so I proceeded to open the PC to investigate further.

On opening the CASE panel I saw that the motherboard standby light was on, so I thought it was obviously receiving power. Then I removed the power button connector pin and shorted the connection manually, but once again nothing happened.

I then tested the power supply further, by connecting the green and black wires on the 24pin connector. The power supply switched on and I decided that it was working fine.

I decided that the motherboard was faulty and ordered a REPLACEMENT of the same model. Once I received the board I fitted it into my case, assuming this would be the fix. However once again it does not turn on. I then removed the most basic parts needed and set them up on my table.

I was starting to believe that the power supply is the fault, but it seems to be working fine whether the green and black pins are connected (even when plugged into the board for a short period).

I am guessing that the fault lies somewhere in the connection to or from the green wire used to signal the power supply to turn on. However I am UNSURE if this is due to faulty motherboards or faulty power supply.

I will shortly be ordering a replacement power supply, as seems to be the next thing I should test. I was wondering if anyone can provide further tests so I can ascertain the component that is at fault.This is a very comprehensive report on what appears to be an unresolved issue. The O/P has indicated a request for additional help above and beyond what they have already done. I am wondering why this post indicates "solved"? truenorthWe're going to talk about computer power supplies and motherboards .

Even the experienced technicians work on computers daily wind it difficult to guess at a problem. A very common practice is to just try substituting different parts until the system starts to work . But performing a simple test on a power supply is not enough to ensure that the unit works as it should. The best way to prove that a power supply works is to try another power supply. If a known good quality power supply does not work, we have to assume something is wrong either with the motherboard or with the connections.

Also, a defective hard drive, CD-ROM drive, or even a USB component may stop the system from working properly. Additionally, some computers have interlocks on the case that will stop the unit from working if the case is open. Another unusual problem that is hard to catch is when the motherboard has been shorted to the case by using the wrong kind of standoffs to hold motherboard in place. In some rare cases the system will work on until the motherboard is stressed or moved slightly and something is shorted out.

Some experienced technicians will TAKE the motherboard completely out of the cases and mount it on a ground plane (metal sheet)e and attempt to get it to run outside of the case with no peripherals connected, just the power supply and the motherboard. And even with no memory.

1st TIME this MONTH.....

My computer is a Sony Vaio all in one, Model VGCLT18E, T7500 Intel Duo 2.20GH, 4 Gigs of RAM, 360GIG HD and Running WINDOWS 32Bit Ultimate. When ever I plug a Flash Drive IR external HD in to eight of the TWO SIDE USP ports, I am asked to "Format the Drive", which of course would delete all the INFO on it. The drive will show up in My Computer, but it will not open.
"Message that drive is unavailable". I went in to my devise Manager and check all the USP Ports and no errors showed up.

Should I replace the USP Ports? All my Drivers are current. Thanks.

If you have a spare PCI slot, get one of these for about $30 plus shipping.
There are no expansion slots.

Hello,

I just got a new GTX 460 video card (love it!!!). I tried it at a friends house as I was helping him build his new desktop and upgrading my own.

I tried the 1080p since that's the only thing that was really available at the time (or I was too lazy to get another available option).

The SCREEN seems awfully pixelated, or at least, that's what I think. The text is very small and the icons and text look pixelated.
When I used my DVI to VGA adapter, and my tv with a VGA port, the 1360 x 768 resolution looks fine (a little blurry, but nothing MAJOR).

Would this be a setting and/or driver issue? I tried a game (Oblivion) and it looks great, full HD, little to no lag whatsoever, renders everything nicely, but as soon as I go to that windows desktop, the icons look sharp and ugly, text is hard to read, and most things are small (as in barely able to read it small).

It's the same if I boot into Kubuntu (although I don't really play games on Kubuntu, I do use it as my main OS, so it needs to look good on both OSes).

I went back to my VGA output at home, but I really like that 1080p output for my games (I have an HD TV), ESPECIALLY since my new card can handle it quite well, so I'd like to know if this is completely normal or if there's something I can do to make my desktop as good looking as the games.

Just wondering if anyone has an answer.

Thanks!Quote from: trevorpe on May 20, 2011, 07:17:28 PM

...The screen seems awfully pixelated, or at least, that's what I think. The text is very small and the icons and text look pixelated.
When I used my DVI to VGA adapter, and my tv with a VGA port, the 1360 x 768 resolution looks fine (a little blurry, but nothing major)...

...My card has two DVI ports. I have a DVI to HDMI cable and a DVI to HDMI adapter that came with the card...

Hey, I've recently formated my external harddrive to WBFS, and now when I plug it in, the computer can't find it, I know it's because of formating it, but no other program I have found can format it right. I tried using Partition Master Home Edition to format it too NTFS, it did it but it has shrunk and is still not being seen by the computer. The harddrive is 1TB, does anyone have any IDEA what I can do?
Thanks.Why WBFS ? ?
Quote

The hard drive is 1TB, does anyone have any idea what I can do?

Can anyone point me into the right direction to find out how to test a motherboard with a volt meter.I personally think the short answer to this question is "You cannot do this. A motherboard is not a toaster. You could test the PSU with a voltmeter". The long answer would be "If you are a skilled and experienced technician who is very familiar with the motherboard model and knows what voltages to expect in what locations and also knows what it means if they are absent or different from what you expected then maybe - maybe - you could get some information from those voltages". But if you were, you would not be asking this question. However, you ASKED to be pointed in the right direction, so you will find some information at the link below which might help you.

http://www.google.com/search?num=100&hl=en&safe=off&q=test+motherboard+with+multimeter&aq=7&aqi=g10&aql=&oq=test+motherboard+


isn't a multimeter a different tool from a Voltmeter?Quote from: BC_Programmer on May 20, 2011, 07:07:21 AM

isn't a multimeter a different tool from a Voltmeter?

some even can work as digital oscilloscopes

isn't a multimeter a different tool from a Voltmeter?

Unless you are in a rock band on stage, smoke is usually a clue that something is wrong.

Hey everyone.

I've been having issues with my older HP pavilion desktop (D4650e). It has all the original specs on it aside from new coolant for the fan. It was still booting until this morning when my kids decided to get on to start a school project, and now it won't boot at all. Specs that i can remember:

250 Gig HDD
2048 mem (2x 1024 sticks)
Nvidia... i forget the type
Running windows 7


Lately it would just run slow as a snail even when only running chrome for my work. I'd open a few browser tabs and it would instantly slow it down. I also had problems installing some programs so instead I just used my laptop for it. Basically, the installer would try to install but never make it/freeze up midway.

When this started happening, i did a clean (ccleaner/malware remover/adware/ran my virus protection/cleaned out all the old stuff i didnt need/blew it out with some air, etc etc etc) still slower than molasses with the installer issues. Figuring it was either old corrupt files, or just something (Like memory/hdd/motherboard) going, i decided to do a clean re-install of windows 7, still with no luck and THIS time it wouldn't recognize my speakers anymore (Logitech setup, older model).

Anyway, I was going to start searching how to test memory, motherboard, HDD, etc later today actually. And my kids just came in to let me know the computer was frozen, they restarted and it popped up with an error. When i go in I see a prompt with it checking windows:

'Windows cannot repair this computer automatically'

It then goes through an AUTO repair but prompts again that its not repairable and asks me to send a report to microsoft/then finish. When i finish it just shuts the pc off.

I can't get it to boot into SAFEMODE, and going to setup repair from bootscreen only gives me the same error as i posted before (Cannot repair).


I had intended to run hijack this to get help if i couldn't find the problem after my testing but obviously i can't now. From the background here, do you have any suggestions at all? Would it most likely be one thing or the other? Example, does it sound more like a HDD ISSUE than a memory/motherboard issue? If so, would it be a good idea to just grab a new HDD (etc) and interchange to see if that fixes the issue?

Also, before i forget. Somewhere on the prompt it says something like 'If you have installed a new device PLEASE remove the device and restart' but there hasn't been anything new installed in quite a while.

Not sure if these details help at all, or if i need more. But thank you for the help!If you have the OS disc's, I'd perform a repair installation. Using 3rd party repair utilities to remove malware works to remove them, but the registry and everything else could still be swiss CHEESED and no longer efficiently structured as there could be broken routes.After removing things, i ended up reinstalling/reformatting an entirely new OS copy (Windows 7 that i had previously) with no luck, so the registry should have been fixed with the reformat. Im wondering about hardware now because im almost positive thats the issue here.

Thanks for the help

Hi everyone, I'm new here and not great with trouble shooting problems that I'm having.This is the second computer in a years time that did this, and both were less than two years old when the problems started..This is a HP pavilion P6310Y with Violet6-GL8E mother board. Has intergrated 9100 Nevidia grapics and the ADM Athlon llx4 630 Quad Core prosesser. Has 300-W psu and 6Gb DDR 3 memory with a 1 Terobyte 3.0gb/sec and 5400rpm hard drive. First thing to happen was computer startes shuting down while in use.Thought it was thermo related and cleaned fans, heat sinks (were dusty) and re-checked all plugs.Tried all the recommended tricks mentioned on-line to reset things to no avail. Changed out the psu witch didn't help. Puter will come on and fans turn on and I think the hard drive is working. All cd-rom drives seem to work as the doors open and close.. Just get a message on the monitor saying No Signal and then it shuts down as if in sleep mode. And neither the mouse or key board are working. Would the grapics card (intergrated in this case ) cause these problems?And if so I think there's a slot inside for another card to be installed that might over-ride the intergrated one.I did remove the heat sink and fan from the cpu for cleanning and tried not to remove any of the thermo paste in doing so. Re-set all memory STICKS ect. I bet we're looking at a bad cpu or mob aren't we? Thanks for an help on this guy'sIf it's happening on 2 different systems you should stop looking for zebras.

Boot to safe mode. Does the PROBLEM occur there?Hi, And thanks for quick reply...Can't get it to boot to safe mode Don;t think it's posting and with no monitor, I wouldn't know if it was. Tried to power on and press f8 but nothings happening. Thanks...Oh, And I'm lost on you'r comment about looking for zebra's..Are you saying I should check my outlet wireing in the room? If so, it's showing 121.2 volts...Thanks againDon't guess anyone wants to take a stab at what may be wrong here? Who knows, maybe someone out there knows alittle about these things than I do and can share there kn owlage. Really....any real insight would be appreciated...Do you use a surge protector on your computers? Do you use a UPS (battery backup)? What's your normal routine as far as shutting down vs. leaving the computer running? Do you usually shutdown at night or what? The often suggested method of diagnostics for this type of problem is to reduce the hardware in the computer to it's bare minimum and then see if the problem is STILL evident. If it is not then reintroduce components one at a time to see if it happens at some point. Then you are able to see what it is that is at fault. I note your comment re the re-seating of the ram. However have you tried running it on only one stick. Though i must say that from my own experience that if it is ram associated it normally does not even boot--so i DOUBT it is ram. However in your bare minimum trial i would start the test with only one ram stick. You do not have to physically actually remove some items just DISCONNECT them IE: optical drives. The only software component of your computer that i see likely causing this would be power settings which i assume you have checked. Even with that if it happens randomly (as to the time interval) i don't see that being the cause. truenorthIf you have gone through a couple of computers, and may be a few monitors, in a few years, you might have a serious electrical problem in your home or in your area. You may need an electrician to check it out. The first thing I would do is to buy a good UPS. All of the better brands have good surge protection besides having battery back up. Then start trouble shooting your problems. Other wise you may just blow out other equipment.Quote from: rthompson80819 on January 28, 2011, 11:48:19 AM

The first thing I would do is to buy a good UPS.

I have a WD 500 GB IDE drive (internal) and it has been a good drive. I currently USE it to store my CD collection. For some reason when I transfer anything from it to another device, the transfer pauses one or more times before it finishes. I'm talking a pause of a minute or more at a time. Example: I was transferring a CD of 81 MB and with 5 seconds left in the transfer it paused for 64 seconds. I've had the drive for a couple of years I think and I recently wiped it clean and re-formatted it before putting my music collection on it. It was pausing like this before the format too.
I had to install a PCI adapter to connect the drive since the computer I put it in only had SATA connectors, no IDE.
Any ideas what causes this or if it can be fixed? Thank you.I should also point out that when I'm just scrolling through the folders on that drive that many times it will just "lock up" like it does when transferring files also for a minute or more at a time. If I try to close it out or cancel a transfer, I get the "Not responding" message.Try adjusting(if one is present) PCI Latency Timer cycle to 32 on your BIOS Settings. If 32 is in default use 64.
It might require other setting. Save and Exit and check the difference. If it did'nt MAKE a difference, return the default value and look for PCI IDE Busmaster(if present). Toggle from enable to disable(vice versa). Save & Exit. Check again and if nothing still, return the value. Another setting is the PCI Delay Transaction(if present), enable or disable from present default. Save,Exit. Use only one or EITHER settings under BIOS to test the difference. Revert back if nothing changed.Quote from: jason2074 on January 30, 2011, 11:37:13 PM

Try adjusting(if one is present) PCI Latency Timer cycle to 32 on your BIOS Settings. If 32 is in default use 64.
It might require other setting. Save and Exit and check the difference. If it did'nt make a difference, return the default value and look for PCI IDE Busmaster(if present). Toggle from enable to disable(vice versa). Save & Exit. Check again and if nothing still, return the value. Another setting is the PCI Delay Transaction(if present), enable or disable from present default. Save,Exit. Use only one or either settings under BIOS to test the difference. Revert back if nothing changed.

I took apart this old AC adapter the other day and I found this one part that seemed strange to me. It was in between the chord that connects from the adapter to the laptop. It was a cylindrical magnet around the wires. Anyone know what this is and what purpose it serves?
This is called a "CHOKE" it uses an inductive magnetic field to remove noise on the cable called "Ripple". Its best to keep it there. The process of converting AC to DC through step down transformer gives you say 15 volts AC to bridge rectifier ( 4 diodes ) that cuts the SINE wave into a HALF sine to remove the alternating from + to - and - to +, so you have a pulsating - to + direct current flow, then by use of a group of capacitors the 60 hz half sine if USA or 50hz half sine wave if europe is then converted into an almost constant DC that is linear with no half sine voltage with very minimal voltage over time fluctuation. The choke is used to protect the PC as well as the power supply from noise called ripple as well as to surpress a quick spike.If, as I suspect, it looks something like these, it is an inductor or "choke", but its purpose is to prevent electromagnetic INTERFERENCE (EMI) from the computer radiating from the power lead and ALONG the power wires. Not really anything to do with ripple. Or spikes.



For more information on chokes.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choke_%28electronics%29Great help. Thank you Thompson and Salmon Trout

Hey I cleaned the cooling SYSTEM on my laptop (acer 5735z) last night. I turned it on this afternoon and the fan starts up a bit TOO loud... suddenly my COMPUTER turns off a few minutes of me getting on the internet. I suspect it simply thinks the cpu is heating up because I connected things incorrectly when putting the laptop back together, but I am not sure. Anyone have an idea what is GOING on? The laptop is NOT heating up at all now, just acts like it is heating up incredibly fast.Most of todays cooling fans have a 3rd leg ( wire ) to which that is a tach that the system uses to verify that the fan is spinning and measure the RATE at which it is spinning. If this wire was damaged or if the fan is not spinning fast enough, it will shut itself down to protect itself from a melt down. Your probably looking at having to replace that cooling fan. Loud noise from small laptop fans is not a good thing. Some are easy to replace and others are a pain to try to find one that will work if an oem fan is not readily available.It actually turned out I needed to re-apply thermal paste to the cooling system after taking the fan out. But thanks anyways. It WORKS great now!

Hello members. My internal WD hardware is not DETECTED by my computer. When I boot my computer,it loads and asks me "Insert disk to boot from CD" and it hangs. And I went to bios too and it did not detect it either.
Things I have tried:
(0)Checked whether it is plugged in correctly.
(1)Connected the hard drive to another computer and it only worked once.After I restarted it the Hard drive is not detected and my OS dose not load.
Why I believe that it is not a problem of my original computer?
I plugged in another Hard drive and it worked unlike the WD hardware.
Why I believe that the WD hard drive is not DEAD?
Because it worked on my other computer which had an OS installed but as I said, after I restarted, the my computer dose not load unless I UNPLUG the WD hard drive and reboot again.

Please help me fix this problem and it would be really appreciative and I need to fix the problem Urgently because I have 430GB of programs and documents in it.

PS: I am LOOKING for a mentor.I don't think we do mentors on here.

You cannot take an OS disk from one computer and boot it in another.


I see. So is there a way to fix it? I want it to work on its original computer(accer).
Edit:The OS was on my WD hard disk because it was the Main disk. I have used it for 3 months and all this happened just when I restarted the computer.If BIOS doesn't detect it, either the data/power cables are bad or not making a good connection, or the drive is/has failed.Quote from: Computer_Commando on January 29, 2011, 01:54:01 PM

If BIOS doesn't detect it, either the data/power cables are bad or not making a good connection, or the drive is/has failed.

data/power cables

you loaded xp after win7 corrupting the boot....now install xp then win7 or fix the boot config..and no I cant help with it. good luck

I just installed an ECO Coolit liquid cooling into my computer. Currently running an i7-960, not overclocked. I ATTACHED a file that shows the temps I was getting. Are these normal or too high?

[recovering disk space - old attachment DELETED by admin]Looks too high to me...was that under load or at idle ? ?That was under 100% load, the highest stress test with prime95Quote from: iamtonsoffun247 on May 19, 2011, 09:39:10 AM

That was under 100% load, the highest stress test with prime95

Hi there guys,

Im here because of a question i have concerning my HDD's.
Here goes,

I have a SATA disk that is my main HDD where windows is installed and i also discovered an IDE 320gb i had a while and connected it to the IDE ribbon.

Both disks are ok and the IDE one is recognised and given a volume letter under windows.

Now i want to install linux on the IDE drive thus format it to EXT3 + have some files that i will be using under windows as well.

So i would want it to dual boot Windows and the Linux Distro and both to be visible in one ANOTHER.

I also have an IDE to SATA adapter which i could use to make the IDE show as SATA on my computer but i dont know if that would have any advantages.

Would it?

What is my best setup with what i have there?

I wouldnt mind changing the boot order every time if dual boot is not possible but it would be muuuuch easier with a bootloader.

I havent yet formatted the IDE disk ILL be waiting for some more solid views on the matter and then start playing around.

Thank you in advance,

Sander

Are you asking three questions? Four? Five?
The following are general observations, not perfect rules.

Linux does not need or even benefit from having a very larger drive or partition space in ext3 format.

The Linux OS does benefit from having a wxt3 format with moderate space for its own use. But Windows does not read ext3 at all.

Linux reads NTFS, but does not write it the way Windows prefers.
Bother Windows and Linux can share a moderate size FAT32 partition.

Converting a IDE to a SATA interface does not give the IDE what you imagine.Sorry for being so confusing and thanks for the reply.

As i can see from your reply i have some homework to do about formats.

However my questions, numbered, are the following :

Since i want to install Linux on the IDE and have that disk, or part of it visible in windows,

1. What format should it be formatted in?

2. Could i partition the IDE, format one partition to accommodate Linux (EXT3?Around 30-40 Gb? ) and the other one to FAT32 (Large piece) so linux and Windows both read that partition? Would Windows then be able to Read/Write in that?

3. As i can understand converting the IDE to SATA is not needed, would i have to boot each HDD every time i reboot my system?

Thank you,

Sander
Thank you for responding. This is the best I can do to answer your question. Formulating written answers is not my best thing. There'll be spelling errors and RAM or errors and even dramatic errors in code as I am doing this with dictation, and I talk like I talk very
let's look at your last question. You need to become familiar with how your computer BIOS. In my BIOS there is an option to select which drive if I hit the F8 key before windows can see me hit the F8 key. Kind of confusing. This can be annoying, but it certainly works and it is a practical solution to the problem. Even if it is annoying.
Now then, as to how to partition just one drive, both Linux and Windows and use that drive and share data. Let's suppose I have 160 Gbytes IDE drive that is in good condition but does not have any INFORMATION that I need. Or at least I have already saved the essential information to DVD discs.
I would first boot in one of my favorite Linux CDs and prepare my drive using the Linux live CD. This is a version of Linux that does not require a hard drive to actually come up and run. It runs from the CD and from RAM. Using the drive utility is inside of Linux I would prepare the drive in the following manner.
Delete any partitions that are already on the drive, and make sure the drive is an MS-DOS type . That should not be necessary, but it is one of those esoteric things that it can really mess you up if it has not been set. Most people are not even aware what this is. Next, I would create a nice size NTFS partition as a primary partition. It should start at the beginning of the drive. Since this is 160 GB drive, let's divide up and into nice 40 GB pieces are in okay, first partition is a primary partition and its 40 GB. Next we create an extended partition that covers almost all the rest of the space. Well, let's leave just a tad. Maybe leave 20 GB of non allocated space. It's not wasted. It's just unallocated. Now inside the extended partition we make some logical drives. Let's start with a nice size that 32 partition. Maybe 30 GB. Next we create a Linux partition using the EXT 3 format. About 40 GB. Last we do a Linux swap of 7GB. let's see, that doesn't take up all the available space. No problem, we can use one of the Linux facilities later to change the size of the partitions.
The order of installation is a critical issue here. We'll have to install windows XP first. You might want to do some of the windows updates and perhaps install just a few of our favorite programs. But it's not necessary to do all that right now.
Next we do the Linux installation. Having less experience with the Linux installation, are likely to do something wrong or did that's one of the reasons we didn't do the complete Windows installation with all of our programs. We could botch up Linus installation to work wipes out the windows XP system.
Now we have to pay attention and do a manual installation of Linux system. In some cases the automatic installation work fine, but we don't really know that. So we have to do go through this thing and manually tell it what partitions to use.
If all goes well, we'll end up with a GRUB menu that asks us if we want to boot into Linux or if we want to boot into Windows. That is about as good as it gets. You can try for a fancier menu that looks nice, but it's just a lot of work to make it look pretty.
So basically, the idea was to our equipartition the disk first, having only one primary partition. By the way, it has to be set active. Now SOMEBODY will tell you you don't have to do that. That somebody won't be around when it doesn't work. Just make your primary partition was set to be the active partition. Windows XP is installed first, followed by Linux. After everything seems to be working okay, then we can add more stuff into the Windows system.
If we ever have to repair the windows XP installation, we're probably going to lose the GRUB boot loader. So at some point in time you might want to make a floppy disk that can boot into Linux partition. That's documented somewhere, I used to do that but I forgot how the disk was made. I think you can even get a USB right to do that for you.
Hope this answers most of your questions. I'm dictating this using a program called Dragon naturally speaking. And using Windows &, you'll find a program very similar to this inside of even the Home version of Windows 7 is called the speech recognition.
microphone offWow, thanks a lot for the long reply, i should however have stated that i am kind o familiar with Linux and how it gets installed and I also have a g-parted live cd as well for partitioning, really helpful.

I should as well have stated that Windows are installed on the SATA disk and i would never want to touch that as it is 300 Gbytes of stuff. I know its not good, i know i have to partition that as well and save my data on another partition but oh well ill do it today.

So my suspicion of a partitioned FAT32 and EXT3 disk stands?

What i am afraid though is if the FAT32 partition of the IDE hdd will be visible from the SATA HDD while in Windows.

Thank you for your help.By the way i know of Dragon dictation, its a real time saver but not quite perfect yet Glad to hear you are into Linux. And OK on the gparted thing.
http://gparted.sourceforge.net/livecd.php
A FAT32 partition can be common to both Windows and Linux. However, in both OS you can demount a partition you do not want to see.
Using GRUB. or a similar manager, you can boot from almost anything that is bookable. But my experience is limited. Back in the days of LILO I was able to do strange mufti boot tings. It is possible to have two versions of two OS spread over two hard drives. And each OS can ignore partitions by not mounting them.
Normally Windows will refuse to mount a partition it can not read. There is a way around that , but i think that is beyond what you want to know at this point. Anyway, Linux can read just about anything if you ask it to.True, i just checked one of my laptops and Ubuntu reads and writes to the NTFS partition i have windows on. I could, knowing that, create an NTFS partition and mount it/unmount it accordingly. I will however format it to FAT32 just to be sure.

Thanks for your help erm...Geek

Sander

Hi, I am TRYING to install a hp3310 on a win7 pc through a ethernet lan connection.

I have DOWNLOADED and tried to install the only software available for my win7 32 bit pc. It gets almost to the end of the installation and it tells me it cant connect find the 3310. When i select locate it by ip address it also falls over.

I downloaded the hp print diagnostic utility which sees the unit and the correct ip address. when i diagnose it it says everything is ok except its not the default printer.

I downloaded the hp network diagnostic utility which sees the 3310 with the correct ip address. when I select check connection it says no software installed.

I can access the 3310 through my web browser, and the ip address

Pinging the 3310 works fine.

I can go to add printers and add the 3310 as a ethernet printer only.

If I go to add a device its as if it does not exist

i do have a c6180 hooked up to the win7 pc by usb, which works good, would this cause a problem?

thanks for looking



If you open Devices and Printers, do you see the hp3310 there?Quote from: soybean on April 10, 2011, 09:42:59 AM

If you open Devices and Printers, do you see the hp3310 there?

Did you follow installation instructions provided in documentation for your printer? Perhaps you need to review that. Info: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/documentSubCategory?tmp_task=setupCategory&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&product=439491

Don't bump; we don't like it. Be more proactive in looking for a solution. Try other boards.

Acer Aspire if left unplugged from ac for more than a couple of hours has very erratic BOOT up. ( I know that the main battery is not any good , so only use laptop plugged into ac socket), so I THINK maybe cmos battery is also no good , where is battery and how do I get to it. THXDo you still have the bad battery in the laptop, TRY removing it entirely and see if that helps.are you talking about the main ( PORTABLE ) battery ?, if so I will give it a try. Thx.Yes, I did mean the laptops main battery. Sorry about the confusion there Are the DATE and time right on the computer?

This has happened to me before, but I can't remember EXACTLY what fixed the problem.

I formatted my laptop tonight and now I can't CONNECT to the Internet. My network needs a password to get on, but it never lets me get to the point to input the password. Instead, when I hit connect, it says "Windows is unable to connect to selected network. The network may no longer be in range. Please refresh the LIST of available networks, and try to connect again." (It is really in range, though.) Nothing else currently has difficulties connecting to the network.

Okay, I swear last time this happened, I WOUND up formatting three times and magically it worked the third time. I have no clue what I did differently. I'd like to avoid formatting that much since it takes 2 1/2 hours each time...

I know one solution is to install the latest drivers, which I did. (Via flashdrive and another COMPUTER's Internet connection.) That did not help.

I did not delete anything yet from the back-to-factory-setting. Knowing last time I had a problem getting online, the first thing I did was try to get online and it doesn't work.

I'm operating Windows XP and it's a Compaq Presario V5000. The Network Adapters reads "Broadcom 802.11b/g WLAN" and "Realtek RTL8139/810x Family Fast Ethernet NIC" and both have the latest drivers. I also tried disabling one at a time to no avail, so I take it both are supposed to be running.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!http://support.microsoft.com/kb/884787Thanks for the suggestion! That actually made me progress some more in the process (I was able to input the password, but it wouldn't accept it) and I was eventually able to figure out my problem was that I didn't have Windows Service Pack 3 installed to allow WPA access. What a simple solution to my frustrating problem! I feel dumb!

i know some rough guesses ( common sense) but I need more specific answer for a assessment on a basic computer module, please help. Your question is very broad.
In general, electronic equipment of any kind has to be protected from high temperature, high humidity, high altitude, high dust levels, high radiation of any kind, high smoke levels, high oxygen levels and excessive G force.

Most electronics can be stored in a container filled with anhydrous nitrogen at about none atmosphere of pressure. The storage temperature depends of the materials used. Normally form -25 to +75 Celsius for most materials.

Any INDUSTRIAL module you buy should have a full disclosure of environmental LIMITS. Note that operational limits and storage limits differ.
Parisa, could you provide a bit more information about what you want to store and for how long and what purpose so someone here can give you a less ridiculous reply?Quote from: quaxo on May 18, 2011, 10:00:02 PM

Parisa, could you provide a bit more information about what you want to store and for how long and what purpose so someone here can give you a less ridiculous reply?

someone here can give you a less ridiculous reply?

none atmosphere of pressure.

a less ridiculous reply

Dear All,

I have a Dongle which was connected to my old system with PCI LPT port for my Telemanager.
Now I changed my system "HP Pro 2000 MT E7500" unfortunately it had no PCI LPT Port.... I purchased Parrallel port PCI Card and CONNECT Dongle with that card but Dongle is not working properly, however that card is working..... Pls help me....

email me or POST on my topic
Thanks in advance for your KIND help

KhurramSome information is needed.
The old Operating system, the new Operating System.
Information about the old LPT address. This is found in then BIOS of the old system.
In general, there are three specific addresses using for the LPT. Your software may USE only none of them. So your new PCI card has to be set to the correct address.

hello!
is it possible to remove the watery/black image/dots cause by water. my son SPRAY the laptop screen with water.
repair? or
REPLACE the lcd?

thanks in advance!Can you POST a picture of the screen? Is the damage inside the screen or on the surface?

If it's inside the screen, there's likely no WAY to FIX it. It'll have to be replaced.

I've recently purchased a toshiba portege r835 and for the last couple days I've been having problems with one of my USB ports. Right after I startup my computer, it works fine for a few MINUTES but then it stops working completely until I restart my computer. Can anybody help me with this?What is connected to the USB port?Usually my iphone but I've also tried it with my wireless mouse and a flash drive but the results are the same.I think the USB might be going to sleep to save power.I was thinking that too so I checked my power plan but I didn't see anything would cause this but maybe I'm missing something which is TOTALLY possible.Don't know if it's the same for Win7,
Turning off a USB port's power save option on Windows XP Pro

In Windows, click on Start > Control Panel (or Start > Settings > Control Panel).
Double-click on System, then open the Hardware tab.
Click Device Manager.
Click the + at Universal Serial Bus Controllers.
Right-click USB Root Hub and select Properties.
Open the Power Management tab.
Clear the checkmark from Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power.
Click OK.
Repeat this procedure for the USB 2.0 Hub.Weird, I don't have a USB 2.0 hub there. I do have a 3.0 but that's not the one that I'm having problems with. I did follow your instructions for the usb root hub though. I restarted my computer just for good measure. So far its working but its only been a few minutes. I'll reply in a few HOURS and tell you if its still working. Thank you for all of your help so far though!nope, i'm still having them problem...http://us.toshiba.com/computers/laptops/portege/R830/R835-P56X/
USB Ports
1-eSATA/USB (2.0) combo port with Sleep and Charge, 1-USB (3.0) port, 1-USB (2.0) port

Do not use the combo port, try one of the other two. There must be some special settings for the combo port.ah no, i'm not having any problems with the combo port, its the 2.0 that i'm having trouble withI've finally solved the problem! I WENT to power settings and disabled USB selective suspend. Thank you for your help!

hey there.

im going to BUILD and computer but im confused.,, i wanna go with MD RADEON HD 6770 1GB GDDR5 16X PCIe Video Card but the motherboard is Asus M4N68T-M V2 AM3 DDR3 NVIDIA Geforce 7025/nForce 630a Chipset mATX w/ Onboard Graphics and Core Unlocker, 7.1 HD Audio, GbLAN, USB 2.0, SATA-II RAID, 1 Gen2 PCIe, 1 PCIe X1 & 2 PCI....

so i want to know if that COULD work?? i mean the motherboard is nvidia geforce and the graphic card is Radeon... do i have to get a radeon motherboard ?


thank you!!!It just has an Nvidia video chipset built in. It won't affect the ATI card.

Hey Guys, any help u can give will be greatly appreciated

The problem i am having is that my C:\Drive is saying it is FULL, however i have no idea why it is full, the problem seems to be the windows folder which says it is taking up 35GB of my 39GB hardrive. Rest of the space is being taken up by programs installed. I have TRIED deleting certain programs and that creates space but then i check again later and that space dissapears and the harddrive is completely full again.

I have done all the obvious things such as scanning for viruses and malware but nothing found and searched for and deleted all temp files which again created a bit of space which then went again later on in the day.

I have searched all over the internet to try and find out what the problem could be but i cannot seem to find out what it is

I have AVG installed and am wondering if that is the problem as there have been alot of problems associated with AVG RECENTLY however i am reluctant to uninstall it because if that isn't the problem i won't have virus protection software installed and won't be able to download any because the hardrive will instantly fill up again

I have an acer aspire 3003wlmi laptop with:
39 GB hardrive
512mb RAM
and i'm running windows xp professional service pack 3

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated as this problem is really limiting my ability to use my laptop which at the moment i am desperate to use as i am in the middle of my university assignments/exams

Thanks in advance

Ben

Most data consumption happens within C:\Documents and Settings were profiles reside and data can be in My Documents, or a number of other area's. Sometimes Temp files can accumulate there. I would check out folder properties by right-clicking them to check size and follow the folder and sub-folder path that points the way to the bloat that has consumed your drives available space. A couple SYSTEMS I have seen in the past have had temporary internet folders filled with GIGS of junk too. Also check recycle bin to see if files deleted are still there in which the trash needs to be emptied.Quote from: skyblue29 on May 17, 2011, 03:41:46 PM

...The problem i am having is that my C:\Drive is saying it is full, however i have no idea why it is full, the problem seems to be the windows folder which says it is taking up 35GB of my 39GB hardrive. ...

Does anyone know what MIGHT cause four pictures instead of one horizontal across the screen 0f a crt monitor?

JohnIncorrect refresh rate, dying monitor, faulty video card. What model is this monitor, and how old is it?
It's a TANDY, and they've been out of business for years. CHANCES are it's old age and beginning to fail.Iwas just going to say....my age guess would be 22 years old...Quote from: Patio

Iwas just going to say....my age guess would be 22 years old...

It's a Tandy, and they've been out of business for years.

... I wonder if it is capable to syncing to anything but a standard VGA signal, it may even be CGA only. To use a term of the period I am recalling, it may not be 'multisync'. It may even be OK but the computer feeding it may be outputting a signal it cannot process...

I have ploblems to restore sound in my mecer 280M machine it seems like EVERY driver denied exept the defaut one but no sound even though it SAYS that the driver work propery, windows media player says no sound CARD AVAILABLE

I used the program PC Wizard 2010 from CPUID. I ran some Benchmark tests on my CPU and in the background i had speedfan running to monitor my CPU temps...the hottest it reached after a few tests was 65°C. The Benchmarks were around 6-7 mins each....all of them made my CPU run at full load. Should i look into getting a new Cooling system for my CPU??

WinXP HOME Edition SP3 (32-Bit)
Asus A7N8X-X
nVidia nForce 2 400
AMD Athlon XP 2500+
1024 DDR-SDRAM
NVidia GeForce FX 5700
Samsung SP0802N (80GB)I think I'd just keep speedfan running in the background during normal use of your computer and monitor your temps for awhile. If they run a good bit lower under normal use, I wouldn't be concerned about this. Quote

The retail package of the Athlon XP 2500+ includes both the processor and the manufacturer standard heatsink. The AMD approved heatsink leaves much to be desired and many users have opted to replace it by after market units. Its construction is of aluminum instead of the preferred copper and has a LOUD high-speed 60mm fan. The thermal CONDUCTOR between the processor and the heatsink is a simple thermal pad.

Hi best help out there. I always come here when I need help. But I did some READING and didn't see this topic.

SOOooo

I got a bran new monitor today. A Acer 24' S243HL. Love it so far. I'm going to be using my XBox and PC on it.

So right now I have fix the screen size and just Playing with it. But I'm not getting any sound out of the internal speakers. I have tried both Xbox and Utube Videos. But nothing.

Can anyone help. PleaseCheck first Device Manager, Sound Controllers/Adapter for any marks. You may have overlook at any drivers needed to be installed. You should also need to post if you have any external speakers being used. There are Control Panel settings for the OS, built-in/added sound card to check. Also check for the Xbox audio settings, if any.OK I have done more playing with it and came up with something that would work best for my house hold.

What I would like to have is a VGA switch box. 2 VGA's in and 1 VGA out. Is there even one out there?

What is slowing me down with this is my turtle beach head phones that works with Xbox and PC. I get no sound out of them. But my old RCA hock ups will work is I find this VGA Switch box.Sorry to reply to myself. But I just found this. Now I wounder how well it would work with the quality of the images for my XBox.

Manual Switchbox Db15f for Vga Monitors 2x1 AbQuote from: Teeman on January 27, 2011, 07:02:34 PM

So right now I have fix the screen size and just Playing with it. But I'm not getting any sound out of the internal speakers. I have tried both Xbox and Utube Videos. But nothing.

Are you using VGA or HDMI input? If you are using a VGA video connection, did you also connect the audio lead? (3.5mm stereo jack plug at each end) If you did, have you explored the onscreen menus and checked the volume level is above zero? Also, if you have an audio lead connected to the monitor audio input, take the other end, (the jack that would plug in the computer or Xbox audio output), and touch the tip with your finger. Do you hear a hum from the monitor's speakers? If you plug that jack into the headphone outlet of an mp3 player, does the audio come out of the speakers?

A small point... even the cheesiest of cheapo desktop speakers are going to sound better than the little speakers that can be fitted into the bezel of an LCD flat panel monitor. I know. I have an AOC 24 inch monitor.

What my monitor has for inputs is Two HDMI's and one VGA then one audio.

So did you use an audio cable or not? And have you tried the other things I suggested?