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Yes, that works also OK. I am half-way there. I went to Outlook Express and clicked on "Tools" then "Accounts" then "Add". No problem. Then there is a problem. They ask for the e-mail server name (incoming server) as well as the name of the outgoing server. I don't know what to PUT in the blank space. My SERVICE is from Cablevision, Optonline. Do I type: "mail.optonline.net" as my incoming server or do I just type "POP 3"? For outgoing e-mail server do I just type my e-mail address? It's confusing.For incoming and outgoing servers use: mail-hub.optonline.netIf you go to http://optimum.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/optimum.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=2282&p_sid=IBHisjKj&p_lva=29 and click on for e-mail server names, you see two options. See below:

You can keep your current e-mail address, @optonline.net, or switch to @optimum.net.

[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]So all I must type-in is mail-hub.optonline.net in both blank spaces for both e-mail incoming server names as well as outgoing server? When I use a iMac at the Apple Store, the incoming server says: [emailprotected] and the outgoing server says: smtp.me.com.ars032.31. This seems very different from your instructions (of course they use different OS).Quote from: Myron on October 13, 2009, 09:34:25 AM

So all I must type-in is mail-hub.optonline.net in both blank spaces for both e-mail incoming server names as well as outgoing server? When I use a iMac at the Apple Store, the incoming server says: [emailprotected] and the outgoing server says: smtp.me.com.ars032.31. This seems very different from your instructions (of course they use different OS).

Hi I have a PC (see specs under my name) with a 2MB S3 ViRGE video card. It uses a PCI slot.
I have another 12MB ATI Rage graphics card that is about two years newer and it uses an AGP1 slot.

My motherboard seems too have an unused AGP slot. Is okay to PUT this ATI card in my PC? Are there any RISKS of damage? Can I keep both cards in for more video RAM or do I have to take the PCI card out?

Any help or recommendations would be appreciated. What good would two cards do? You can only connect one to the display. Use whichever one you like.It will only run one or the other i believe...but check your board specs to be sure.
The AGP card would be an improvement...Quote from: patio on October 11, 2009, 02:21:12 PM

It will only run one or the other i believe...but check your board specs to be sure.
The AGP card would be an improvement...

He may have moved/dislodged the floppy data cable in the process.

If it's an ATI Rage, it's probably 128MB. Some of those old computers (AMD-K6 vintage), require a complete BIOS reset to recognize AGP slot as master.

If it's an ATI Rage, it's probably 128MB. Some of those old computers (AMD-K6 vintage), require a complete BIOS reset to recognize AGP slot as master.

He may have moved/dislodged the floppy data cable in the process.

Wrong. The ATI Rage Pro came with 2MB, 4MB, or 8MB of VRAM. the ATI Rage 128, however, had 16MB or 32MB.

Cityscape, does this card look anything like the one in my attached image?

Do you know what spec it is? AGP 1x/2x/4x/8x each have different voltages and if you, for example, stick a 2x only card into a 1x slot your bound to have problems.

Advent T9103 Intel P4 550 3.4hz, 320GB 7200 rpm HDD (2 x 160), 1024MB DDR memory, Windows XP SP3.

HDD Western Digital WD1600 Sata Dec 2004 x 2

Problem started after I decided to vacuum around the cooling fan, I have done this before with no problems, as it gets very "fluffy". Plastic head with soft bristles on vacuum.
When I started the computer it SAID it required system disks, so I loaded my recovery disks created when I first had the PC (possibly 4-5 years now). When it eventually loaded windows there was no second HDD drive.
I guess I WIPED the drive that has worked when I loaded the recovery disks. I can not get the second HDD to be recognised at all, I have tried swapping the power and serial data leads from the other working drive and nothing, except when I try to boot from the unrecognised HDD it asks for system disks, if I load these I will wipe any existing data, if I have any data left at all, and will I have 2 versions of Windows, would this be a good idea?
Foolishly I had not backed up the data stored on the original D drive, was always going to do it tomorrow. I guess I will have to take that one on the chin.
I am not SURE what to do next really, and would appreciate some help please. If I have not given enough techinal data please advise and I will do my best to provide anything required.


Thank you for your time and help.After reading some other posts on here I have knocked the HDD gently (as though breaking an egg) although I did feel like bashing it. No change.
Put it in the feezer for a while, no change.
This HDD will not be recognised.
When the screen comes up it is not listed and I cant get to the BIOS any ideas please?

Thank you1) NEVER jar the hd - not even a little. Any suggestion to the contrary is simply wrong.
2) Freezer. Yeah, okay.
3) I'm not sure I completely follow your post. Can you boot to Windows on your main drive? If so, have you checked to see if the drive appears in disk management?Using a vaccuum inside a PC case is never a good idea...they generate large amounts of static that can damage components...compresssed air is the better choice.
That being said ...have you tried to remove the drive and put it into another working machine to see if it is recognised ? ?
Did this drive have an OS installed on it or just data ? ?

Try another data cable when you swap it into the other machine...hook it up to an odd # SATA PORT so it doesn't attempt to boot.
When the machine starts up make sure it shows in the BIOS.
If it does then after booting right clik My Computer...select Manage...then Disk Management.
Find the drive there...right clik it and select Properties...report back with your findings.

Hello everyone,

I have a PC (HP Compaq dc7900 Small Form Factor) which stopped working. The power light is on and green, the light on the motherboard is also on and green, Power Supply is running, i can tell that from the LIGHTS that are on and the spinning fan at the back of the power supply itself.When i plug in the power cable to the power supply the CUP Fan STARTS spinning and all the lights in the front panel goes on, but there is no display in the monitor, no any signal in the keyboard as well as on the optical mouse. I unplugged everything and STARTED putting back each device one by one, still to no avail. Tried changing CPU, no success.

One question, why is it that when i plug the Power cable to the power supply everything starts running without hitting the power button at the front panel?

I have searched for any similar issue of this PC on the net i found nothing, am i so unlucky to be the first one to experience this fault?
please. Once you have the computer running by attaching the power cord what happens when you try to shut it down from the power button? Have you tried your monitor on another computer? What if any software /hardware changes have you made that were coincident to this phenomenon occurring? Dows anything even for a brief instant appear on the monitor--even a flicker or flash? truenorthTruenorth thanks for your prompt response,

When i press the power button once nothing happens the CPU fan continues running and both the motherboard and the front panel light does not go off. But when I press and hold the power button for few seconds the CPU fan stops spinning and the front panel lights switch off, I changed monitor from a different PC still no success. The only signal i get on the monitor is from the monitor itself (DVI... NO Signal - VGA... NO Signal) this for sure is a monitor massage and not from the PC.

Any further help, welcomed.lino124, Your notation that you must hold the power button for longer than just a brief push is normal when trying to "shut down" a computer via that method. It is different that when using it at start up where pushing it for the briefest of time will (normally) start it. At this stage bringing another monitor TO the affected computer is NOT conclusive. What i would like you do do is take the original monitor to another computer. What i am trying to eliminate is that it is a monitor problem If the monitor works elsewhere then the problem could be your video card in the original computer. Are you sure that it was the "CPU" you changed? That is a bit drastic at this stage as it introduces other possible issues depending if it was done properly. You sure you don't mean the PSU the power supply unit?truenorthTruenorth, Yes i did swap the CPU as well even though it was bit drastic, that was just to eliminate the doubt of a faulty CPU, but i can reassure you that i returned it safely to its place. So here is what i did again, i got a working monitor tried it on the faulty PC still no success, i plugged in a PCIEX card switched on the PC still not solution, the DVD drive opens and closes smoothly. My question is: isn't there supposed to be at least one bip SOUND when a PC is powered on? there is no any kind of sound at. What is stopping the PC from TRANSMITTING any signal to the monitor? Did HP publish any Diagnostic Documentation for this Model?

Going to give you some web link in the hopes that it might assist you.
http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/SoftwareIndex.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&prodNameId=3785038&prodTypeId=12454&prodSeriesId=3785403&swLang=13&taskId=135&swEnvOID=1093

http://bizsupport1.austin.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/SoftwareDescription.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&prodTypeId=12454&prodSeriesId=3785403&swItem=vc-65111-1&prodNameId=3785038&swEnvOID=2096&swLang=13&mode=4&idx=0

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/SoftwareDescription.jsp?swItem=vc-65111-1&lang=en&cc=us&idx=0&mode=4&

http://drivers.windows9download.net/desktops/hp-compaq-dc7900-small-form-factor-pc-hp-insight-diagnostics-offline-edition.html

http://www.webstatschecker.com/stats/keyword/drivers_for_hp_compaq_dc5100_sff

truenorth
P.S. Just before i close here are some quotes from others on a different forum that were dealing with your problem. Don't know if they are applicable to your issue but including them in case they are.
"Ok I figured it out myself
It turned out to be the wireless pci card
After I pulled the card the pc no longer turns on when I turn on the power strip
Maybe it can be disabled by software I don't know I haven't looked into it that far
For now I am glad I was able to fix this mystery"

"Those of you with pc's starting up unexpectedly:

1. Check your power management settings in BIOS.
2. Check your power management settings in Windows.
3. Does your keyboard have a power management key that may have accidently been pushed?

Those would be the three most common solutions. We just had a thread the other day and it turned out a user's friend accidently pushed the power management key on the user's keyboard. Another user accidently changed Windows power management settings."

hello

I want to connect a projector to my Acer pc i have 1 serial port on that pc and i have GOT 2 cables connected to the projector one with red,YELLOW,white ends and another one looks like this one

but i cant seem to get this right so please help me to know connect what to whatHi there

The cable from the projector with the red/white/yellow wont be for use with PC, that is for connecting to a TV or similar.

What you should be doing is connecting the plug in the PHOTO into your laptops serial port. Is the problem with plugging it in or making the picture appear on the projector? If so please ADVISE what operating system you are running.

Cheers

Shanethat cord worked fine but the thing is that the image only shows in the projector screen not in the pc what addon would work that out?well my last QUESTIONS seem to have no answer so heres another my projector and my pc also have a DVI port can i use that to show my desktop in both screens(projector screen + pc monitor)?Most computers have a toggle function where only one screen is active at a time. There are commands that will switch the external VGA port on along with the internal screen but I am not sure what the command on your system would be. Look in the display section of the control panel.


BTW the cable in the image is a VGA/SVGA video connector and not a serial connection. Serial DB connectors are 9 pins and that is a 15 pin.

Also the stereo mini is usually a piggyback cable for audio.

i PUT on my system this MORNING and i found out that windows refused to start up until i PRESS ctrl+alt+del on my keyborad.board is ok
not even gonna ANSWER until the other post are cleared up.........no POINT

what would be the best air cooler for an amd phenom ii x6 1100T. I dont want it to be as big as the noctua cooler. Would a Zalman CNPS9700LED be good at cooling it ?You are asking for Best and also putting a limit on size.
So, what are the other limits do you want?
A. Best Performance for cost.
B. A callable anywhere.
C. Easy to install.
D Low maintenance.
E. Better than what the CPU maker recommends.

If you want E you don't care about A thru B. Those are things the CPU maker has already done.
EDIT:
But you could just buy this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181015
CORSAIR CWCH60 Hydro Series H60 High Performance LIQUID CPU Cooler
For 'normal' use that cooler is way overkill.
Which Noctua cooler are you referring to? That make 5 or 6 coolers that will work with that processor of VARIOUS sizes.

You also need to determine how much room you actually have for a cooler, as some coolers are taller than others and you may not be able to close the CASE properly if you get one that's too tall for it.the computer is going to be for gaming(GTA 4, battlefront 2 bad company) i want the cpu cooler to have the best preformence for the cost. I dont want water cooling yet.

the noctua cooler i was talking about is the big one they have ( http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Heatpipe-Bearing-Cooler-NH-D14/dp/B002VKVZ1A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1315680261&sr=1-1 )

I have a ASRock M3A770DE mother board and a NZXT Gamma Case, and i plan to have a kingston hyperx ram cooler with hyperx t1 ram. Quote from: Dustin13838 on September 10, 2011, 12:50:24 PM

the computer is going to be for gaming(GTA 4, battlefront 2 bad company) i want the cpu cooler to have the best preformence for the cost. I dont want water cooling yet.

the noctua cooler i was talking about is the big one they have ( http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Heatpipe-Bearing-Cooler-NH-D14/dp/B002VKVZ1A/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1315680261&sr=1-1 )

I have a ASRock M3A770DE mother board and a NZXT Gamma Case, and i plan to have a kingston hyperx ram cooler with hyperx t1 ram.

ACP — The Truth About Power Consumption Starts Here - AMD
www.amd.com/acp
File Format: PDF/Adobe ACROBAT -
energy consumption and thereby reduce total cost of ... consumption and lower heat generation. ... by the processor as well as the memory controller (which is ...

foxconn motherboard code f9
ive downloaded manual and there is no code mentioned {f9}
it looks like foxconn does not have support for 5 year old boards
it a c51xem2aa board with the latest bios from their site
this just happened within the last month
usually the motherboard which has a code DISPLAY on the board, when FULLY booted to windows will be 00

Foxconn does not have support for 2-year old boards. I'm serious.
Error F9??? Are you SURE it does not mean press F9 to enter BIOS?
It would really help if you could take a picture of the error screen-I can't seem to FIND much info on this board, even in Chinese forums.there is a led read out on the mobo itself
2 numbers flash as the pc boots, the numbers can be read as you look right on the motherboard
its not windows errors, it `s the numbers as you look right at the board itself
thanks for any help in advanceThat is one exotic mobo, from quite a few years back. If I remember correctly only EPOX, SOYO, and Foxconn made motherboards with visual LED displays like this.


I went to the Foxconn site once more and lo and behold, the manual is right up for download again. (although the site only supports downloading from IE.)


the boot codes beginning with F are nVidia added, I see. It is likely to be an error with the chipset-if F0, F1, F2, and F3 are all related to hardware identification and COM ports, it would logically follow that it is a hardware error-the nVidia chipset includes everything on the board except the Realtek audio deck and in some boards a realtek NIC, so I'm afraid you might have to replace the board.again thanks like i SAID in my first post ive allready downloaded the manual and there is no f9 in there
but its most likely the board {nvidia chipset}
on a good note though its gone back to 00
been working on with pc`s from wayback to the late 80`s
its been 20 years and i was thinking this 1 would outlast me, hehe
ive only got 4 or 5 years out of it

Help! DVD/CD drive freezes when I insert a dvd or music cd. What casues this?Does the same THING happen in safe mode?Do you mean the computer locks up for 30 seconds or so? or the drive completely STOPS functioning?Yes, same thing happens in safe mode. No, it doesnt lock up for 30 seconds or so, it just doesn't do anything and the screen goes dark and I have to reboot. Data cds work just fine. I hate to buy a new drive if it is something else causing the problem. Thanks for the replys, any ideas?That's a real stumper...but it does SOUND like the drive is not liking the different CD modes. eg the data CD plays because it reads with the lazer at a certain power level, but the DVDs or Audio CDs require more, and it is struggling due to a malfunctioning transistor or something.

That being said, it could also be the power supply about to die aswell, try and borrow both a DVD drive and a power supply of greater or equal wattage, to see if either of these eliminate the issue.Thanks Kurtiskain. You've been more helpful than HP tech support, none of them seemed to want to answer why a data cd would work but cds and dvds wouldn't. Your explaination makes a lot of sense. One of the techs had suggested a power issue and had me check the CONNECTIONS inside to make sure they weren't loose. They are tight. When you say power supply, you are talking about the power strip that everything gets plugged into, correct?Quote from: aewwea on October 11, 2009, 02:49:27 PM

When you say power supply, you are talking about the power strip that everything gets plugged into, correct?

My backspace key is suddenly only working when I use with it. Any ideas (I have a feeling it's something stupid that I should already know:P)? I have a Dell Inspiron E1705 laptop with WINDOWS XP.Well, I'm not sure what fixed it, but after REMOVING a few programs on the list of dodgy INSTALLERS and then rebooting, the backspace key is once again working!

Hi i am new to doing custom COMPUTERS but i ordered this custom computer a few months ago from a company close to were i live that a few people i know recommended.

But my question is what should be the first thing i worry about upgrading like graphics card mother board or power supply i think i am pretty good on memory for a little while.



COOLER MASTER, Storm Scout Black Mid Tower Case w/ Window, ATX, No PSU, Steel/Plastic

HEC, Orion HP 585D 585W Power Supply, 24-pin ATX, ATX12V, Dual 80MM Fans, OEM
ASUS, M4A78LT-M, AM3, AMD® 760G, DDR3-1800 (O.C.) 16GB /4, PCIe x16 HCF, SATA 3 Gb/s RAID 10 /6, VGA+DVI, HDMI, HDA, GbLAN, mATX, Retail

AMD, Phenom™ II X4 955 Quad-Core 3.2GHz, AM3, HT 4000MHz, 4x 512KB L2 + 6MB L3 cache, 125W, 45nm, Black Edition, Retail


KINGSTON, 4GB (2 x 2GB) ValueRAM PC3-10600 DDR3 1333MHz CL9 1.5V SDRAM DIMM, Non-ECC

SAPPHIRE, Radeon™ HD 5670 775MHz, 1GB DDR5 4000MHz, PCIe x16 CrossFire, DVI+HDMI+DP, Retail

SEAGATE, 1TB Barracuda® 7200.12, SATA 6 Gb/s, 7200 RPM, 32MB cache
RAID, No RAID, Independent HDD DrivesDepending on how much of a upgrade you are doing and its application which I am guessing is gaming. An AM3+ socket motherboard will cover the next socket generation of AMD CPU's, but if you plan on using this system for 3 or 4 years before retiring a motherboard, you can wait and get the best of the best then or 2nd best and not have anything invested into a specific socket type which can become obsolete as soon as chip makers come out with the next best thing and dont want to stick with the standard socket.

If your a gamer, and one that always has to play the latest games and on maximum video settings you'll likely be retiring video cards about once a year to stay up with the most powerful there is. Also 4GB or Ram is going to be a bottleneck and ValueRam doesnt perform as well as the top end stuff especially if your looking to overclock.

If your OS is 32-BIT your only getting 3GB out of that 4GB, so hopefully your OS is 64-Bit so you can slap say 16GB in there and be able to address it.

As for myself, my current bottleneck is Win 7 32-bit and 4GB Ram using only 3GB. So I guess I am going to upgrade to Win 7 64 bit or if Win 8 isnt a flop like Vista, go for Windows 8 64 bit after enough people have guinnea pigged it and save me from wasted money if its anything as horrid as Vista. Maybe Microsoft will break the track record of every other "Home Use" OS being junk, such as Win 98 was better than Win 95, and Win Me sucked Badly and XP kicked bottom, then Vista sucked badly and then Win 7 kicked bottom again. The Business OS ... NT OS Line I have no complaints over. NT3.5, NT4, and Windows 2000 Pro/Server ( aka NT5 ) I had no issues with.

Used "Bottom" because the 4 letter word that starts with B and ends with double T's surprisingly is censored.I TAKE exception to your kick bûtt remarks. Windows 2000 was a real improvement over Windows 98.
Windows XP is, to date, the most widely deployed desktop OS.
Windows 7 is very good. The principal issue with windows 7 64 bit is getting the right drives. The is largly a problem with the makers of graphics cards. IMHO, if a manufacture can not make a good 64 bit driver for its hardware, maybe they should go into some other business.I have never found any basis for comments that either ME or Vista are bad.Quote from: BC_Programmer on September 09, 2011, 10:15:06 PM

I have never found any basis for comments that either ME or Vista are bad.

Hi all.

My 7+ year old Sony Vaio just died the other day, pretty much for good. The HDD was failing and it lasted a good long while.. but it's finally all gone.
Instead of immediately buying a new HDD for it, or a new computer in general, I decided to try and fix my father's Gateway so we could have a desktop PC to use again.

The Gateway went out while my father was using it during a lightning storm.. in which we have the classic ''Lightning Strikes, Computer dies'' scenario. Everyone he talked to said to just get a new power supply and it should work just fine. Well, we got the power supply, I stuck it in..

..It doesn't work.

The first time I put the new PS in and tried turning the computer on, all I heard was the fan of the power supply starting up. The computer never actually turned on.. nor did the keyboard, mouse, etc. Then, after turning it off and trying it all again.. even the power supply isn't making any noise. It was brought to my attention that in this case, a fried motherboard could possibly be the issue.

So what gives? First the power supply works, but not anything else, and now the PS isn't even working. Does anyone know definitively what the problem is?

I don't have the Gateway specs on hand, though if required I can search for them. I know the PS was set to the RIGHT voltage, or at least I didn't alter it (115, I believe). Anything else concerning the motherboard or PS I'd have to look for, but I was under the impression that people more knowledgable in this area than myself might be able to figure out what's wrong by the symptoms (and I don't know where half of this information is)

Thank you all for your time, sorry to bother you and I apologize if this subject has been covered already. I didn't see it.PSU won't turn on unless motherboard tells it to by"connecting" pin-14 to ground. PSU is never really off unless you disconnect it from the AC power. Just like your TV, press remote control power on, TV comes on. Needs power to receive the signal from the remote. Only way to have no power to the TV is to unplug it.Motherboard then, Thanks a bundle Commando.

Guess I'll either order a new ONE or attempt to swap HDDs.

Thanks again! =)Some power supplies won't "turn on" unless there's something connected to it (ex. motherboard, drives). Double check all your connects and make SURE it's all hooked up right and tight. If it all looks right and it still won't come on at all, likely the motherboard is dead.

Also consider that the damage may not have stopped there. Other components may have also been damaged, such as the video CARD, drives, fans, RAM, etc. Before rushing out to buy a motherboard, check your other components in ANOTHER computer (perhaps a friend's if you've only got the one desktop) to make sure they're still functional or you could be spending more than you'd like and could probably get a new computer for the same or not much more.

Sorry if this doesn't belong here. So yeah, I'm planning on getting a desktop on the coming Black Friday, since there are huge sales normally. I'm most likely going to be using the desktop mainly for gaming. I've customized two desktops on DELL, and I'm wondering which is better for gaming. These are the two desktops (I'm taking info off of the product comparison thing, and please keep in mind, I have barely any knowledge of computers whatsoever) :

Alienware Aurora $1,668 :
Operating Systems : Genuine Windows Vista® Home Premium (64 bit) + Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium Upgrade Coupon - English
Processor : Intel® Core™ i7 920 2.66GHz (8MB Cache) Quad Core Processor
Memory : 6GB Triple Channel 1067MHz DDR3
Keyboard : Alienware Multi-Media Keyboard
Video Card : Single 1.8GB NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 260 192 Core
Mouse : Alienware Optical Mouse, MG100
Hard Drive : 500GB - SATA-II, 3Gb/s, 7,200RPM, 16MB Cache HDD
Sound Card : Creative Sound Blaster® X-Fi™ Xtreme Audio
Cooling Option : Alienware™ High-Performance Liquid Cooling
Gaming : Killer Xeno™ Pro
Security Software : Norton Anti-Virus Scan Gamer Edition - 30 day

Studio XPS 9000 $1,767.00 $1,458.00 (You Save $309.00) :
Operating System : Genuine Windows Vista® Home Premium Edition SP1, 64-Bit
Processor : Intel® Core™ i7-920 processor(8MB L3 Cache, 2.66GHz)
Memory : 6GB Tri-Channel DDR3 SDRAM at 1066MHz - 6 DIMMs
Keyboard : Dell USB Consumer Multimedia Keyboard
Monitor : 20.0" Dell ST2010 HD Widescreen Monitor
Video Card : nVidia GeForce GTS 240 1024MB
Hard Drive : 750GB 7200 RPM SATA Hard Drive
Mouse : Dell Laser Mouse
Sound Card : Integrated 7.1 Channel Audio
Security Software : Norton Internet Security™ 2009 Edition 24-months
Speaker : Bose Companion 2 Series II Multimedia Speaker System

I'm really just planning on using these for hardcore gaming (Crysis, CoD, etc) and maybe for some school work on the side (Essays, labs, etc). The alienware. But seriously, you can save a lot of money building.

Newegg has some good black friday deals. I saved $80 on a 1KW psu and saved a ton of money on my 24" monitorYeah, but I don't know squat about all of that. The only thing I know about computers are basic things like ram, processors, video cards and stuff. But thanks.We can guide you on the parts to get. If you WANT to learn how to put it all together you can find some good tutorials on youtube.
My favorite http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9O0FoXQFmIQuote

I'm really just planning on using these for hardcore gaming ..

I have an XP Pro SP3 using an Intel dual 2.6gb chip. I had 2 HD's and 2 DVD drives. One of each was IDE and one of each was SATA. I upgraded the IDE DVD to SATA and when rebooting found that neither the new SATA DVD nor the IDE HD were seen by Windows Explorer or a partition app.

A friend suggested that I re-install the IDE DVD drive and if everything came back to it's previous state (it did), then to rename (drive letter) the second hard drive to allow the bios to assign a drive letter that would be recognized on the next boot. I did that and then re-installed the new Sata DVD drive and when I rebooted, the new DVD drive was there with the original HD drive letter but the IDE HD is STILL missing. I RENAMED the DVD drive thinking that if I free up the original drive letter for the IDE drive that it might show up on the next reboot. Nope. It is invisible to the bios, EaseUS Partition Master, Windows Disk Manager, and Windows Explorer. HOWEVER, I have an application that was installed on the IDE HD and when I click on the icon on the DESKTOP, that app actually works. So the drive is functioning, it's just invisible.

Additional info: The four drives are
CH0 Master - Sata HD
CH0 Slave - Sata DVD
CH1 Master - none (but originally the IDE HD)
CH1 Slave - NEW Sata DVD (and the old IDE DVD)

And when I ask the Bios to SEARCH for another drive for CH1 Master, it returns nothing. It cannot find the IDE HD.

Any thoughts?
http://www.easeus.com/resource/install-ide-hard-drive.htm

For a while I've been using an HDTV as my sole monitor, connected VIA HDMI. Last night I tried to switch to dual with a regular PC monitor conncted via AVI (with a DVI adapter at the PC), but as soon as I switched the monitor setting to dual, the audio gave out. I've been using the TV speakers for my audio (the default is set to "Realtek HDMI Output"), but as soon as I switch to dual, I can't get anything to make a sound.

I've used a dual setup before, with TWO regular PC monitors (though it was with the same HDMI cable and AVI/DVI adapter), but in that instance I was using separate speakers. So apparently the problem is that it won't let me USE the TV speakers when another monitor is involved, I just have no idea how to fix it without setting up separate speakers.

Is there a way to get this working without any EXTRA hardware? Thanks in advance for any help.All I can think of at this point, is to switch primary and secondary monitors. If the regular PC monitor is now the primary, it could be that WINDOWS thinks that's where the speakers are.The TV is set as the primary. I tried switching them just now just in case, but, no luck. :/ Thanks though.

i have a 1 tb external hard drive that i CHANGED to fat 32 so i could plug it into my xbox n watch movies but when i changed it over it says that around 850 gb of space is taken up even though there is nothing on the HD so it has left me with very little space...is this because i changed it to fat32 that all this space has been taken up or is something wrong with my HD??How did you "CHANGE" to FAT32? And where are you seeing this 850 GB figure?

old FAT32...
I guess this is a LIMITATION of this technology that is why newer technology are discovered/invented.


spam signature deleted by Allani USED HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool, when i go into my computer under the f drive which is the HD it has the meter under it and most of it is full and when you click on properties to check disk space there is hardly any left..Quote from: shotjase on August 04, 2011, 05:36:43 PM

i used HP USB Disk Storage Format Tool,...

Hi,

Have a strange problem with laptop SCREEN. First, there has been a recurrent problem of screen blinking with thin black horizontal lines. This problem would resolve if we closed the screen and opened it again. Now screen doesn't work at all (black) BUT if we hook it up to external monitor and then choose the dual-display option, the screen on the laptop works after closing it and opening it again. The laptop screen has a slightly smaller window which I assume is the configuration of the external monitor. What is really strange is that while using the computer and trying to research this problem, the screen never blinks or displays the black lines. Since the screen works after jumping trough these hoops, I guess it is safe to assume it is not a problem with the back lite. It is a compaq cq50. Most likely a POOR connection between the laptop screen and the motherboard. There's a cable/connector attached to the screen hidden behind the hinge. Every time you open/close laptop you "stress" that cable/connector. If still under warranty, return it for repair. If not, it shouldn't cost that much to repair.Thank you for the advice. The warranty RAN out about six WEEKS ago, so I'll try FINDING and fixing or replacing the cable. Just as an aside, I tried the HP forum first. It is full of people whining about their computers and HP in general but no one ever seems to offer a practical solution.Warranty always runs out just when you need it.

The cable/connector is hardwired to the screen. It's not something you will find anywhere.
Most likely, the connector is loose where it mates to the motherboard. Can't really tell much until it's taken apart.

No one ever posts to a forum to say how great their computer is. HP sells a lot of laptops and at the price they're selling for these days, you can't expect much. Be glad you didn't spend $2000 which was the laptop entry point 10 years ago.

I am having problems PRINTING a Panorama on an EPSON R1900.
I CANT get it to print the full 13" width of the roll, any ideas.Depends on what program you're printing from and the printer settings. Double check the settings and make sure it knows to stretch the picture to the SIZE of the PRINTABLE area.

I need to buy a used laptop. From what I understand, corporate models are a longer-lasting better quality laptop than consumer models. Like a Dell Latitude is a corporate MODEL and an Inspiron is a consumer model. Does ANYONE know which other models are the better grade corporate models of some of the other brands like Compaq, Toshiba and other brands? Also, is my premise about quality correct?
Thanksgoogle Compaq business laptop

and Toshiba business Laptop

You'll get a few hits on them and you'll see what business grade models are available from those vendors

Quote

Also, is my premise about quality correct?

...From what I understand, corporate models are a longer-lasting better quality laptop than consumer models. Like a Dell Latitude is a corporate model and an Inspiron is a consumer model. Does anyone know which other models are the better grade corporate models of some of the other brands like Compaq, Toshiba and other brands? Also, is my premise about quality correct?
...

With pricing where it is currently why not new ? ?

Hi. I need help. I've been looking at video cards from all over and I'm more confused now that when I started.

What I need to do is hook dual monitors *and* a television up to this computer http://www.dell.com/us/slgov/p/optiplex-780/pd. I don't know if I need one video card or two. Right now it's just using the onboard video, so all of the expansion slots are open. It has one PCIe slot.

This is for office applications such as Word and Powerpoint, no 3D games or anything too intensive. Any recommendations for a video card that can do all of this?Most video cards will output to 2 monitors, even if it has 3 outputs.
Desktop computers won't do onboard & PCI-e video simultaneously. When you plug the card in, it will disable the onboard; a Dell might require this be done manually through the BIOS.

1. What inputs does the monitor have? (VGA and/or DVI)
2. What inputs does the TV have? (VGA and/or HDMI)

This is your computer: http://support.dell.com/support/DPP/Index.aspx?c=us&cs=RC978219&l=en&s=slg&SystemID=PLX_780
Desktop, Mini-Tower or SFF?

Consult the Service Manual: http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/op780/en/index.htmIt's a mini-tower. The monitors are VGA and the TV is yet-to-be-purchased so I assume it will have HDMI.

All the manual says about it is: "PCI Express x16 slot supports either a PCI Express card or a DVI add-on card (for dual-monitor support)." I've looked at dozens of cards and I'm still not sure what I need. Very few of them are advertised as having more than one VGA output, and when they do they don't seem to support TV out on the same card.Quote from: Qkix on September 07, 2011, 05:04:50 PM

It's a mini-tower. The monitors are VGA and the TV is yet-to-be-purchased so I assume it will have HDMI.

All the manual says about it is: "PCI Express x16 slot supports either a PCI Express card or a DVI add-on card (for dual-monitor support)." I've looked at dozens of cards and I'm still not sure what I need. Very few of them are advertised as having more than one VGA output, and when they do they don't seem to support TV out on the same card.

Most video cards will output to 2 monitors, even if it has 3 outputs.

Can you explain what needs to be displayed on the 2 monitors and the TV. I was thinking that if the TV is to display what is on one of the monitors then a VGA splitter or if the TV doesn't have HDMI or VGA input then a VGA to composite adapter after the splitter would be needed.

This video card might work for your computer:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6798045&csid=_21

It's a PCI Express x16 card, with dual monitor capability (one DVI, one VGA) and HDMI video out as well. It is a low profile card, so it might just fit the mini tower case size. I've worked with the Dell mini tower computers before (in a school district... they had several hundred of them). The design was pretty tight inside, but some low profile cards did fit. We went through a number of cards to find one, with a single DVI port and an S-Video out port.

"As with most GeForce video cards, the ENGT430 offers two output signals so you can connect up to two monitors. This is one area that NVIDIA still lags behind AMD."

Asus GeForce GT 430 1GB DDR3 PCIe, DVI, HDMI & VGA
Interface Type: PCI Express 2.0
Interface Speed: x16
Multiple Monitors Support: Yes
Max. Monitors Supported: 2
Chipset: NVIDIA GeForce
GPU Series: NVIDIA GeForce 400

I am having trouble printing all of a sudden. My printers have all disappeared. Keep getting the error "Operation could not be completed. The print spooler service is not running." I am running XP pro with service pac 3. HP all in one printer. I have restarted the printer spooler service several times and it will not stay on. It is also set to automatic. Have deleted printer and tried installing from scratch and will not compete. Please help I have been researching this problem and nothing SEEMS to work. Hopefully someone here can help. thanksWhich HP printer? What OS do you have?
Are you using a UUSB Hub or extension cable?
Did you make recent changes to your SYSTEM?
Have you recently removed any virus?

Hi,

Go to Start / Run and type in "services.msc" without quotation marks, then PRESS Enter or click OK.

In the window that opens (Services) look for "Print Spooler" on the right

Right-click "Print Spooler" and select "Properties".

Click on the "Recovery" tab and change all 3 drop-down boxes to "Restart The Service".

Make sure the 2 TEXT boxes underneath say "1" in them.

Click Ok until you are back at the Services window, close it and you're good to go.

Go back into the properties of the "Print Spooler" tab and be sure to click Start to restart the Print Spooler service and it will restart the service immediately.

The Print spooler depends on the Remote Procedure Call (RPC) service. Is this service disabled? Go to services.msc look for RPC. Check state: Automatic

yes; these are the only symtoms that are PRESENT (they are all i can SEE on the monitor, no image CLEAR or DISTORTED is visible).

I currently have a SATA hard drive on my win xp, how easy is it to install a second hard drive? Is all that is required for me to do is open the computer and connect the cables and will it work or do I need to install windows on the new hard drive?

Also how easy would it to be to transfer files between the hard drives? I want the new hard drive to keep all music, videos and user files and the old to just have windows and programmes on it.

Would I also be able to do this, transfer user files to the new hard drive and then fresh install win xp on the old hard drive?

One issue I have is that my current hard drive is 465gb so when keeping this to just have win xp installed upon it a lot of storage space would be wasted, any suggestions to the best route I should take?

Thanks.Adding a second hard drive is very easy. After you install it you need to format it, then you can do WHATEVER you like with it.After you install it, go into computer management, right click on the new drive and initialize it then format it and AWAY you go.Is installation simply plugging it in or do i have to install windows on it?
thanks for your help so far.If you have a WORKING Windows install this is not neccessary...it will simply be seen as a 2nd drive and used for storage.

It is just a matter of HOOKING it up. There will be 2 cables a wide one/power and a smaller one/data.
They have a slight L shaped key at one end so as to prevent hooking it up wrong so just examine it carefully and take your time.

As always remove all power sources prior to opening the case.Quote from: patio on October 10, 2009, 07:40:21 AM

It is just a matter of hooking it up.

i think my motherboard is already dead.my pc wont boot. observation with my pc. it was properly working 16hrs ago.but this evening.when i turned on my pc.it did not boot.and saw something about the manufacturing date of my pc which was 2006 cant remember the exact date that it prompted.and said something about decomposing prohibited.did not bother reading all the message. but when i tried to reboot my pc after that message. my pc wont boot anymore.it turns on,the fan is running the optical mouse has lights.but the keyboard light indicator,does not light up.also, there is no video output, I'm using my on board or built in video card.i tried swapping the RAM on different slots.and check if everything is plugin properly.please tell me if I missed checking something,or if anyone experience the same thing please tell me how to fix it.i need response as soon as possible.thank you in advance.
Quote from: wagpofafi on August 02, 2011, 04:56:52 AM

please tell me if I missed checking something,

something about decomposing prohibited.did not bother reading all the message.

i think my motherboard is already dead.my pc wont boot. observation with my pc. it was properly working 16hrs ago.but this evening.when i turned on my pc.it did not boot.and saw something about the manufacturing date of my pc which was 2006 cant remember the exact date that it prompted.and said something about decomposing prohibited.did not bother reading all the message. but when i tried to reboot my pc after that message. my pc wont boot anymore.it turns on,the fan is running the optical mouse has lights.but the keyboard light indicator,does not light up.also, there is no video output, I'm using my on board or built in video card.i tried swapping the RAM on different slots.and check if everything is plugin properly.please tell me if I missed checking something,or if anyone experience the same thing please tell me how to fix it.i need response as soon as possible.thank you in advance.

Run your antivirus.
Run ccleaner
Run Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware
Run System Restore from safe mode
(tap F8 as the computer boots and select correct action from popup menu for safe mode)
(Use System Restore

C:\Windows\system32\rstrui.exe)

How ? ?

"It's not booting..."

If it's not booting there is no safemode...

Doesn't matter how he's able to POST here.

Let's wait for him to reply as to what he has tried so far...

my pc wont boot anymore.it turns on,the fan is running the optical mouse has lights.but the keyboard light indicator,does not light up.also, there is no video output,

Motherboards are made of plastic, silicon, and metal, which would take a considerably long time to decompose.
Try resetting CMOS, and if you can, verify that your processor is seated properly and does work.

Sorry, i couldn't help it.

Run your antivirus.
Run ccleaner
Run Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware
Run System Restore from safe mode
(tap F8 as the computer boots and select correct action from popup menu for safe mode)
(Use System Restore

C:\Windows\system32\rstrui.exe)

Fred35, Try reading the OP

I am thinking about upgrading to a new SSD for less than $100, but it has to be equal to a greater than 60GB. I found this one drive on newegg for sale for $60 after rebate, but I dont know what to look for in a solid state drive. Whats good and what to avoid? The feedback on this specific drive linked also has me concerned that it may be a liquidated sale to move bugged hardware, but as is the troubles with most feedback ratings 80%-90% of the feedback are going to be from those who have had problems with it while the remaining 20%-10% will be the users who had success with it and decided to take the time to post positive feedback.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227738&cm_sp=Cat_SSD-_-Spotlight-_-20-227-738

My youngest brother suggested Intel or OCZ as the best brands to go with for SSD drives. Obviously any SSD drive will beat the pants off of my 1TB platter drive that I currently use. My intention for the SSD is probably to either use it for OS boot -or- video game execution area for quick read/writes. But if used for the video games, and if the OS is on a platter drive the swap space is still on the platters vs SSD, although that swap location can probably be moved to the SSD. My OS is currently Windows 7 Home Premium and the one main game I play is WoW which is currently like 32GB with patches and I am not sure what Windows 7 is using yet, but I could find out when I get home. Would be neat to have both OS and main game on an SSD for speed for both needs, and then store my important data on the 1TB that would act as a slave drive. I could install Windows XP Pro SP3 to this drive and it may be a lesser pig for storage space to squeeze both onto 60GB as well.

My hardware specs are: AMD Athlon II x4 (quadcore) 2.6Ghz AM3 CPU, 4GB 800mhz DDR2 Crucial Ram, Biostar AM2+ Motherboard, Zotac GeForce 9800GT with 1GB DDR2 dedicated Ram Videocard, and currently a 1TB seagate SATA drive + 2 DVD-RW SATA drives, ( leaving me with 1 available SATA port for that SSD in which my MB would be fully populated with SATA drives with the addition of the SSD ). PSU is 450W no-name brand that came with a cheap $20 rosewill case, that I bought for a cheap 450W PSU and gave the bare ugly and weak thin tin case to my brother for his projects.

Im thinking that the 1TB drive is the only bottleneck I have for speed right now.

My brother also warned me that some of the SSD drives use like 10GB of their space as cache so you only really end up with say 50GB of that 60GB. Not sure if this is true or not, but if so they shoudl market it as 50GB of storage space with a 10GB cache. To me 10GB seems insanely large for a cache space when I am use to seeing like 32MB cache on a platter type drive.

Anyone have any SSD drive SUGGESTIONS for 60GB or greater capacity for under $100 that are a good buy and quality parts that will last vs something that will fail in 6 months. I suppose this OCZ has a 3 YEAR warranty, but I'd like to avoid having to send a drive back for replacement with then receiving a reconditioned serviced drive.OCZ has just sold off their RAM division to concentrate SOLELY on SSD HDD's so i'd say you'lb be in good company...
IBM had a long string of bad ones so avoid them for now...I am dealing with OCZ now for a warranty replacement on a memory item they no longer make.
After going through their entire RMA process, it has been in their hands for a month & no replacement, no money, no nothing. I'm doing this as a test of their warranty process, the item is not expensive, but it does have a lifetime warranty.BTW, the OCZ drive you refer to is a very low performance drive. Always look at Max Sequential Read/Write speeds. OCZ is 180/90. This one is 250/230 & has 2X the capacity: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820139416

Right now, SSD's are still pricey. 7200rpm drives are a better value.
One of these came in my new laptop: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136280Thanks for everyones input on this... and yah I wish I could afford that 128MB SSD for $195 with more capacity and higher speed. I guess I will have to flip a coin to decide to get this 60GB for the price or just wait.Honestly, I would have to agree with Computer_Commando. If I were you, I'd wait a bit yet. The prices of SSD drives will start to come down pretty soon, but the technology is still a little new for the larger drive sizes. And while the performance boost may be decent, it may not be worth the price right now. I just had a SSD drive put in my work laptop and the performance boost was minimal.

Right now though, the performance is being limited because the BIOS isn't set to work with a SSD drive correctly yet and will require more work to make it work at max performance. So, if you switch to a SSD drive, be prepared to have to change BIOS settings and possibly some additional steps to get it working 100%.Yah I am going to wait... sure I could squeek by on 60GB, but I have gone 25 years on platter drives starting out on an old seagate 10MB leading to todays 1 TB drive, whats waiting another year maybe for say a 120 or 128GB to be $100 or less or the unlikelihood of hitting lottery and replacing home system with an ungodly powerful system and LARGEST and fastest SSD's available.... one can dream right! .. ha ha

Thanks for everyones input on this!

Hi.. i recently added an 500gig seagate sata drive to the existing 250gig sata one.. off late.., the HDD led on the front of my cpu (that normally lights up bright when there is hard disk activity) glows very dimly as a bulb would when there is a low voltage.. and at times it is bright.. when there is no hdd activity it is still burning dimly continuously.. is this a symptom of poor connections or a failing psu or a failing bulb or a faulty connector?

I guess it would be useful if i mention this information.
I have 4 power connectors(the 2 black,1yellow,1red design) emerging out from the psu..however, there are not 4 dedicated power output connectors from the psu. its LIKE a pair of connectors PUT together and two such pairs thus making it 4. From the head of one connector, 4 wires branch outwards to the other connector thus making a pair.. mean to say that, not all the 4 connectors emerge directly from the psu.

My initial configuration before buying the new hdd where all was fine was the first pair of connectors were connected to the two optical drives.(one cd-rom and one dvd-rw drive)Among the second pair, one went to the 250gb hdd and the other one to the additional fan on the side of the cabinet (sometimes this one would be connected to a splitter in case i wanted to activate both the fans that were present..)

After the new hdd was installed, i was PLAYING around with the connectors a lot of interchanging plugging and unplugging repeatedly atleast a dozen no. of times since the hdd would either not boot up or hang or not respond once booted up.. Not sure if this interchanging of the connectors caused the problem with some connectors,i could see that the hdd's(either of those) would boot when connected to a particular connector and not boot when connected to the other.

By the way, guess all the connectors can be switched between the optical drives,hdd's,fan as they all consume the same voltage.. am i right?

Due to the above behaviour, i ruled out one of the connectors to be faulty. But then again today, one more of the connectors failed leaving me with only two connectors for the 3 devices available..I would also need a confirmation from the experts here whether this behaviour of the hdd not being detected actually means the connector has failed? however, when i connect these 'supposedly' failed power connectors to the optical drives, they are being detected although i am not sure whether they would cause a problem when reading/writing data.

Let me also tell when i saw this dim let LED problem for the first time. As i stated earlier, one pair of connectors were shared between both the optical drives. In this setup, i disconnected one of the optical drives, and connected a splitter cable that i bought to the other connector. The two outputs of this splitter cable were shared among the 2 sata hard drives.. and this was the first time i saw this dim lit problem..

Not sure what could be CAUSING this.. kindly assist!
Thank you

All of a sudden my HDD started making a screechy whiny sound so I am looking for a new HDD. I figure if I'm going to upgrade I MIGHT as well do it right.

Choice one. WD Veloci Raptor.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4164551&CatId=2457

Choice two. Patriot SSD.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3956991&CatId=4214

Both are fast. Both are expensive. So what do you GUYS recamend? Suggestions are welcome. I will be using it for the OS (Win7) and a few small programs that TAKE up no space.Ok I FOUND a better SSD. It is more expensive but it has better read/wright speeds then the Patriot.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4350440&sku=O261-7634

So that SSD or the raptor?

Put DD-WRT in wireless router?
Some older routers have 4MB of flash adn can be upgraded to DD-WRT featrues set.
But some older models, even Netgear and Linksys, don't have enough free flash to hold the small Linux kernel.

Wha can DD-WRT do for you?
A. Turn a wireless router in a repeater.
B. Run small Linux utilities.
C. Increase power.

This lifehacker article shows how you can have a super charged router for almost free.
Hack Attack: Turn your $60 router into a $600 router

Before you buy and old wireless router, check this list. Some of this can be had for under $16 on eBay.
Supported Devices DD-WRT

EDIT:
Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?hl=en-GB&v=TzvkWQYavok
How to Install DD-WRT on a Wireless Router - Techneek TV

But I have not done this. Not YET.
So my question is: Has anybody here done this and did it work well?Yes. I have with a TP-Link WR841ND-running stable for over a month now.


I have increased my antenna gain from stock 20 dBM to 40 dBM-now I can access the Net even while I'm in the loo!


I have used it as a PPTP server so I can access my files remotely, and have also setup a Hotspot login page to see how a captive portal works.


I noticed a distinct performance increase with DD-WRT on my 4 MBIT connection-my ORIGINAL max 200 kbps DL speed increased to 330 kbps max!I know somebody who is ecstatic about DD-WRT. can't remember the model of his router, but it was a DIR-*something* wireless-N router. Not DIR-655, though, that's mine and it doesn't work with DD-WRT.The most common DD-WRT compatible D-Link router over here is the DIR-615...Quote from: BC_Programmer on September 08, 2011, 10:14:54 PM

I know somebody who is ecstatic about DD-WRT. can't remember the model of his router, but it was a DIR-*something* wireless-N router. Not DIR-655, though, that's mine and it doesn't work with DD-WRT.

Ok I have a HP Pavilion ENTERTAINMENT dv7-3079. A while back something in the mother board went bad and it will shut itself down after being on for under a minute. I have a warranty and plan to send it in for repairs the problem is I have a lot of photos of my daughter on there i do not want to loose. They said anything on the hard drives will be lost as they send it back to me with out of box factory settings. they will take off photos for me but charge me 80.00 to do so. I cannot afford that right now. My friend has a Toshiba a105 lappy and the hard drives FIT in it but one, ( my lappy has 2 separate hard drives) the screen goes from the welcome page to saying "windows is loading files" and back again. The other hard drive I put it in and it states no operating system is present. So no go there. Another friend has a similar lappy to mine. Its a HP Pavilion DV6-1230US I think, a 15" instead of a 17 like mine. So I WONDER if it would work to use hers or not? I don't know what else to do to get these photos off there, and not pay more than I can afford. Anyone have any ideas at all how I can go about this? Get a laptop USB enclosure and RETRIEVE the photos on a working DESKTOP machine...I googled that. Its a device you insert the previously internal hard drive in...making it an external?? What an awesome invention. Making some calls right now. It this works I will be forever in your debt....
Best of luck to you...
It doesn't need Windows to work so don't try booting it...
As long as the drive isn't damaged you should be able to see all your files via Explorer....ok I found these 2: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Vantec-NexStar-CX-2.5-SATA-to-USB-2.0-External-Hard-Drive-Enclosure/15751828?findingMethod=rr#Item+Description

and http://www.walmart.com/ip/FileMate-2.5-SATA-to-USB-3.0-Hard-Drive-Enclosure-Dark-Gray/15074307?findingMethod=rr#Item+Description

my question is this: are mine the SATA they speak of and one says 2.0 USB and the other is 3.0 USB. Whats the difference in that?? USB 3.0 has higher transfer speeds...
The Owners manual should say if they are SATA HDD's...Hi

This one will work with your drive. And is universal for all computers.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Vantec-NexStar-CX-2.5-SATA-to-USB-2.0-External-Hard-Drive-Enclosure/15751828?findingMethod=rr#Item+Description

Lisa

i know nothing about computers and only use them for PLAYING GAMES, everything was ok but the color has tturned blue and changing the settings didnt helpMore information is needed

1. What is the make/model of the computer (including the OPERATING System)?

2. How old is the computer?

3. What were you doing on the computer when the problem FIRST started?

4. Describe in as much detail as possible what you mean by everything turning "blue". What settings did you change?

I'm looking for a wireless microphone that i can plug in my computer/ camcorder. Any suggestions would be appreciated since i'm having a hard time finding anything lower than 200$

THANK you!Would bluetooth work for you? You can buy a bluetooth USB adapter to connect to your computer and use a bluetooth headset then. And, the cost could easily be less than $50. Does that sound like an OPTION to you?

Edit: My comments above apply to the computer. I don't know about the camcorder. For professional use, that is the right price.Quote from: Geek-9pm on August 03, 2011, 05:20:13 PM

For professional use, that is the right price.

Which price, mine or his?

Don't many camcorders have a built-in mic?

If the OP is a professional he would visit sites that canter such and the prices is about $200 for a microphone that is reliable, elegant and sounds good.
However, the OP did not say way he wanted a lower price.

The best answer I can give is this: If you can not afford wireless, you don't need it.
With the exception of Bluetooth headsets, other low cost wireless microphones are toys.

I recently got a IBM Model M keyboard, When I first tried to use it to my dismay my computer (specifically the motherboard) could not power it up sufficiently so it can be used.
Since then I've tried about 7 different kinds of adapters, none of them worked WELL or lasted very long. I even had one melt.
I love typing my my Model M keyboard, I'm not willing to give it up. but Its very frustrating when keystrokes do not read or the "sticky key" things happens very frequently. there is nothing wrong with my 22 year old keyboard, I experience the same problems with newer PS/2 keyboards. It's also painful that the adapters do not support multiple keystrokes, there is literally 0-key rollover then them! I can do Ctrl-V (paste) and stuff like that but absolutely cannot be used for gaming. newer PS/2 keyboards connected to my computer's PS/2 port works find, with 3-4 keys rollover. I seriously doubt the Model M does not support more than one key being pressed at a time.

I HEARD about a "Blue Cube" adapter, supposed to be legendary for support Model M keyboards. Is this true? I don't WANT to dish out another $20 to try and make my 22 year old keyboard work with my 2 year old system. If I did spend the money I would of spent enough on adapters to buy another IBM Model M ($100)!

Anyone that uses a Model M keyboard, what do you use to make it work with your modern PC system? What's the best adapter out there?

- tHanks


This website lists the IBM Model M keyboard as being "CONFIRMED non-NKRO". It is listed as "2KRO", two-key rollover. It adds that some websites falsely report it as NKRO, which stands for "N-key rollover" and a keyboard having this feature will recognize multiple keypresses at once. The website lists NUMEROUS tests to check the RO ability of a keyboard. Some tests falsely report the Model M as having 8KRO. Also listed are a number of keyboards advertised as NKRO but which fail a number of tests (ABS M1, Deck Fire 82, Toxic 82 and Gold 82, iRocks KR6820 and plenty more)

http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title=NKey+Rollover+-+Overview+Testing+Methodology+and+Results#Gamer+Optimized+Keyboards

my son's computer crashed...to the point, he had to get an all new hard drive installed.....he had someone he knew install it for him. well, time passed, and he realized his entire baseball card collection (approx. 30,000 cards) were installed on the old hard drive..........he went to reinstall the program on the new computer only to find out the software was old and would not work.....called the company and they said he would new to buy new updated program......STILL, however, that would force him to sit there and reenter all 30,000 cards manually.......not fun.
is there anything out there, or some way, he can hook up the old hard drive and transfer this information over to his new hard drive??
thank you for any suggestions or help............just for the record....he's been collecting these things his whole life.....and he now has 4 children so he has zero time to himself..........it's not like he could just sit and start retyping the info..
thanks again.
bill
new orleansSlave Drive Tutorial

Includes a video and pics...
If it's a SATA drive the basics are still the same with the exception of the connectors...thanks for the info......it is APPRECIATED......
what also occurred to me.........this is on a laptop.....make any difference? if his hard drive crashed before, SAY due to a virus.....would he not transfer the virus to the new hard drive when they HOOKED up the two hard drives? if in fact, this still works with a LAP top??
thanks for you time and knowledge.......very much appreciate it.

bill .

About 8 Bucks at any PC shop...
Enables you to connect a laptop HDD to any working working Desktop PC...

As to his prior issues i would hook it up as suggested then run a full virus/malware scan on it before transferring any data...

I have multiple computers and serials for one game, but only have one game cd. Are there USB Network Hubs that would allow two or more computers to SEE the same dvd rom to access the cd so each computer can verify the dvd presance, at the same time?No, USB and Ethernet adapters do not do what you want.

Many games reacquire that users each have a commercial , paid for, copy of the game. Or, in some sades, a limited number of users can play together over a local network with only one CD.

On this FORUM we can not tell you how to circumvent copyright and license restrictions of the owners of the software. But if you have a local game club and wish to buy the game min bulk quantities, contact the original producer of the game.

But in any case, you might go to their web site ans see if they have some way you can do what you want to do. Maybe the game is free now. Who knows?

Quote from: pcjoseph1974 on August 04, 2011, 10:17:25 PM

I have multiple computers and serials for one game, but only have one game cd. Are there USB Network Hubs that would allow two or more computers to see the same dvd rom to access the cd so each computer can verify the dvd presance, at the same time?

So here's my problem. I've built/had my computer for about a year and I have had no problems yet until recently. So I turn my PC off for the night and in the morning when I turn it on nothing happens my computer wont turn on, but I hear this noise COMING from the PSU. I CHECK all the wires and everything is in place, so I try another plug in cord same thing. Then I switch the PSU with another one I had and the same thing happened, a faint buzzing noise coming from the PSU. Lastly I took the PSU and HOOKED it to one of my old computers and there was no buzzing. So it must be the motherboard any suggestions on what the problem could be thanks.

I don't have the specs in front of me but here is what I remember.

450W power supply
XFX Motherboard
Geforce 9800gt
4Gigs ddr2
Pentium D Processor
80gb hard drive

Something is causing the psu to overload, therefore it will not turn on. Could be hard drive, optical drives, graphics card, keyboard, mouse, RAM, or motherboard. Disconnect optical drives and see what happens. If same, disconnect hard drive and see what happens. Then graphics card. It might even be a locked cpu or gpu fan.450 watt power supply and a 9800gt gpu. something is strained

as the previous poster said , check and then post againI took out the video card,hard drive everything but the processor and it is still making that noise and not turning on.Not looking good for the motherboard. I suspect the buzzing is an electrolytic capacitor (those cylindrical things surrounding the cpu) has gone bad. They tend to short when gone bad and sometimes they explode. Be glad the cpu has done it's job and won't fully turn on. You can put your finger on the caps to see which one is buzzing. Power off and INSPECT closely, do any look BLOATED?

Is it still under warranty?I took the motherboard out and adjusted the port where the the 24 pin thing goes then put it back in my computer and now there is no buzzing noise. I'll write back if I have any problems once i try it.Quote from: Veterium on October 09, 2009, 08:58:50 PM

...adjusted the port where the the 24 pin thing goes...

HP Laser Jet 6L Model C3990A Black Page A page is completely black
A page is completely black.

HP Manual Advice 3 below:

1a.The toner cartridge may not be installed properly. REMOVE the cartridge and reinsert it. Done. No use!

1b·The toner cartridge may be defective. Replace it. Done. No use!

2·There may be discontinuities in the high-voltage contact points. Clean the high voltage contact points on the toner cartridge and transfer roller. (See Figures 7-5 and 7-6.) I don't know where these points are and how to clean them. HP Manual does not CARRY the requisite figures! Can you help please?

3· Replace the DC Controller or Laser/Scanner unit. What do these cost? More than the present day cost of a basic home-use
monochrome laser printer- about INR. Rs,7,000.-? Please guide me!


Prof.Dr.K.Loga muthu krishnan
Senior CONSULTANT Neurosurgeon,
Email: [emailprotected]
[emailprotected]
===========================================

EMail addys removed to prevent SPAM...I think you've done everything you can yourself. Printers are mysterious electronic devices best left to professionals. HOWEVER, as you have stated, it might not be worth the cost. That was a very good printer & has lasted a long time, more than 10 years?. You can now get a new HP LaserJet for half the cost of the 6L when it was new. I'm sure the new toner cartridge was expensive.

I have an old laptop that I haven't used in a while, the reason being that one day it just stopped working. I was using it and the screen went off so I think the computer just totally stopped working but I don't recall. I didn't have the $$ for costly repairs so I just went on using my desktop until I eventually bought a new laptop. However, I still have this old laptop and now also have a extra old hard drive so I put it into the computer to test it out. It powers up and all the lights come on on the front (it's a Satellite Pro 460 CDX) but it still won't turn on. The screen doesn't switch on. I wonder if maybe it was the screen was broken all along? Or maybe some other part. Would a laptop even power up if it's mother board was non-functional?If the drive came from a different PC laptop or not it doesn't have the laptops proper drivers and most likely will not bootup properly.wouldn't it at least turn on and go to a bios screen or something? The computers little power lights all come on across the front but the screen doesn't switch on. I tried an extrnal monitor but still couldn't get anything to come up on the screen, it just remained black as if it were off.That model is about 15 years old (166MHz Intel Pentium w/MMX). It's dead, send it to the recycler. It has about as much value as a 15 year old cell phone, i.e. $0. Sorry.I'm not sure if it's similar, but my Satellite Pro 440CDX has a rather weird "feature".

When I first GOT it, I flipped the power "switch" countless times, and nothing happened.

It wasn't until after I realized I wasn't actually flipping a power switch:



The Power switch was in fact the button to the left, while I was merely pushing the sliding "cover" for the button back and forth, which of course did absolutely nothing. Once I discovered this everything powered up just fine.

Now given you already used this laptop and so would probably know this, but maybe this silly design choice on their part was forgotten, I don't know.

Quote from: Computer_Commando on September 06, 2011, 01:15:00 PM

That model is about 15 years old (166MHz Intel Pentium w/MMX). It's dead, send it to the recycler. It has about as much value as a 15 year old cell phone, i.e. $0. Sorry.

It lists, and commonly sells, for ~200 dollars on ebay. Never really understood why threads where people trying to get older computers working would always end up with some person claiming it's not worth anything, as if that is even relevant to begin with. Not to mention it's often wrong.

Who would pay $200 for a 15 year old computer?

I just thought maybe I could get it working again if possible. I never understood why it stopped working to begin with but would be nice to have a working laptop rather than expensive paperweight

btw...just because original specs were low does not mean this laptop still has only the original parts. i forget the specs but it was upgraded from original. I bought it in 2005 or so.

I have a NEW (as of today) HP G5429fr. From the first TIME I turned it on, it's made more more hard DRIVE noise than the 6-yr-old Dell it's replacing. Should I take it BACK, or could this be normal?A noisy hard drive is not normal, but are you sure it is the hard drive as it could be another component which is RESONATING through the case.
If you are sure it is the hard drive, take it back.It's possible it's just a noisy fan. In any case, excessive noise is not something that is normal in a new computer like that. Take it back.

I just got a new power supply and installed it after that the computer is very slow and is making a grinding noise and the FAN is ruining very loud.

My pc is a Dell XPS 410
Windows Vista SP2
here the part
1DJ301Kit, Mouse, Universal Serial Bus, 2BTN, Optical, Lead Free Black1DT240Card, Graphics, 7300, Low Encryption, MRMGA10, 22X8388Dual In-Line Memory Module, 512667M, 64X64, 8, 240, 2RX81HF730Display, Flat Panel Display, 20W2007WFP, Black, Dell Americas Organization1KJ293Assembly, Panel, Filler, Floppy Drive, TANK, Precision Workstation1DY654Kit, Software, Works, 8.5, Office TRIAL, English1JF495Modem, V.92, Data FAX, Internal SON2, Lead Free, Dell Americas Organization1MY531Assembly, DVD+/-RW..., 16, TSST SATA, Black1JX718HARD DRIVE..., 250G, S2, 7.2K, 3.5, WD-HAWK0149DFINFORMATION..., PREPARATION MATERIAL..., DEVIATION..., PRECISION WORKSTATION..., INCREASE..., #21TH659PLACEMAT..., GETTING STARTED..., DIMENSION..., EXTREME PERFORMANCE SYSTEM..., 4101YH251GUIDE..., OWNER..., DIMENSION..., EXTREME PERFORMANCE SYSTEM..., 410, ENGLAND/ENGLISH...1HU608Kit, Software, Norton Internet Security, 2007, 15MTH, English1RH659Keyboard, 104, UNIVERSAL SERIAL BUS..., UNITED STATES..., Black, DARFON ELECTRONICS, CORP...1JW762Kit, Software, Overpack, VHP32 Digital Video Disk Drive English1UH837Kit, Speaker, 12V, AS501, Nmb Black001323INFORMATION..., NO ITEM1DH108ASSEMBLY..., CHASSIS..., DIMENSION..., 9200/410, PWA INTEGRATED...1JX144Processor, 6300, 1.86, 2M, Core Duo-conroe, Burn 21NJ131INSTRUCTION..., DEVIATE CHAS L6 TO L5.51XP850Assembly, Heatsink, Shroud, MATRIX TANK DESKTOP... Which fan is grinding? the fan in the PSU unit or the CPU fan etc? I had a power supply once that made all the DC fans buzz because there was an issue with the DC bridge in the power supply creating a 60hz hum. If the previous power supply wasnt bad, switch back and see if this new PSU has a bad DC bridge filter causing a 60hz rippled DC output.Same Machine ? ?yes it the same oneQuote from: DaveLembke on September 06, 2011, 08:25:29 PM

Which fan is grinding? the fan in the PSU unit or the CPU fan etc? I had a power supply once that made all the DC fans buzz because there was an issue with the DC bridge in the power supply creating a 60hz hum. If the previous power supply wasnt bad, switch back and see if this new PSU has a bad DC bridge filter causing a 60hz rippled DC output.

yes it the same one

For some reason MIDI files won't PLAY on my computer. I run Windows 2000, and Windows Media Player plays the midi files just fine. But when I try and play it in the preview pane of the folder of in the music NOTATION software I am using, no sound comes out. My MIDI volume is TURNED on high and is not muted. Please help me!never mind.

For some reason, when I play games (other than VALVE's) the game volume keeps same level, but skype's and foobar's sounds lowers.
Why does this happens for everything than valve's games?
DEMONSTRATION:
Playing Valve game: NOTHING happens
Playing not-Valve game: Cant hear skype or foobar CLEARLY, have to raise volume for them a.k.a annoying!




(SORRY if my ENGLISH is bad)

I can't figure out why my computer shuts down, and don't have the money to take it to a repair shop.
This started some months back, but I've had the computer for a lot longer. My brother built the PC.
I completely unhooked everything, and put all the parts back into the case. Same problem.

The oddity of this problem is that, I can surf the web just fine. But I enjoy programming with my PC, and when I open my C# 2010 express IDE, my computer will instantly shut down, or shut down WITHIN minutes of running it.

I tried complete reformat of windows, same problem. And I have a virus scanner.. so it's not a virus.
I've cleaned out my computer with canned air.

Currently all I have hooked up is: motherboard, power supply, hard drive, ram and video card.

I don't know a whole lot about hardware, but here are some of my stats, that I'm reading off a program called AIDI64:

CPU Type: Dual Core AMD 64 X2 5200+
Motherboard Name: Biostar NF4U AM2G
Video Card: nVidia Geforce 9400 GT (i temp put this one in, to see if video card was the problem.. still shuts down)
Ram: two STICKS, 2gb each.

If you need more stats (and you probably will) let me know what you need. Thanks, I appreciate any help or advice you can give.
DLoad install and run SpeedFan....
Post a screenshot of your temps...1 at idle...and 1 under load. -- speed fan screenshot

I also have this program called Aida64 that lets me do stress:

Here is during stress, and after:
after the stress test:

During 100% stress test, my computer does not shut down. But if I run C# IDE, it would probably shut my computer down within two minutes.. like being unplugged. But I can start it back up instantly with the power button.127C seems pretty high ...even for an AMD...check your Manual for normal operating temps.
You may be replacing the CPU fan assembly.It always says 127 and never CHANGES.. even when I first start it.. I've read this might be an error in reading the sensors or something? Not sure.Know anyone with a temp probe ? ?

Just remembered...try Speccy...see what readings you get there....Free as well.Speccy says for CPU:
Code: [Select]CPU
AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+
Cores 2
Threads 2
Name AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+
Code Name Brisbane
Package Socket AM2 (940)
Technology 65nm
Specification AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 5200+
Family F
Extended Family F
Model B
Extended Model 6B
STEPPING 2
Revision BH-G2
Instructions MMX (+), 3DNow! (+), SSE, SSE2, SSE3, AMD 64
Virtualization Supported, Disabled
Hyperthreading Not supported
Fan Speed 3169 RPM
Bus Speed 201.0 MHz
Rated Bus Speed 1005.2 MHz
Stock Core Speed 2700 MHz
Stock Bus Speed 200 MHz
Average Temperature 28 °C
Caches
L1 Data Cache Size 2 x 64 KBytes
L1 Instructions Cache Size 2 x 64 KBytes
L2 Unified Cache Size 2 x 512 KBytes
Core 0
Core Speed 2613.5 MHz
Multiplier x 5.0
Bus Speed 201.0 MHz
Rated Bus Speed 1005.2 MHz
Temperature 25 °C
Thread 1
APIC ID 0
Core 1
Core Speed 2714.1 MHz
Multiplier x 9.0
Bus Speed 201.0 MHz
Rated Bus Speed 1005.2 MHz
Temperature 31 °C
Thread 1
APIC ID 1Temps are fine...SpeedFan must be mis-reporting it.

Try MemTest next to rule out RAM as a culprit...let it run at least 1 hour.

Also see how much free space is on thet HDD.I was a little impatient, took the ram out, it seemed a little dirty in the slot I blew it out.
I put in new RAM and it hasn't shut down once yet. I think it might be solved! Thanks soooo much Patio!!!!

I am going to run a test on the memory later, I put it in another computer and it's not having any problems either. So maybe it was the dust on ram? Either way it is working.... I just can't believe it.. after all this time I'll post how the memory test came out in a bit.Nevermind.. my computer is still shutting down. It just took awhile longer that time.
So, I guess it can't be the memory either. I have totally different ram cards in the motherboard.Someone said it is my power supply at fault:
Voltage
CPU CORE1.376 V
MEMORY CONTROLLER1.504 V
+3.3V3.264 V
+5V5.027 V
+12V11.840 V
-12V-7.680 V
-5V-4.736 V
+5V HIGH THRESHOLD4.946 V
CMOS BATTERY 3.360 V

Does this look ordinary?It is not the power supply, I replaced it and same problem. I've isolated it to two possible issues:

CPU or Motherboard. How do I go about seeing which one is the culprit?

I have a tandy MONITOR #VGM-470 Cat. No. 25-4094 crt type made June 27. 1994 that has four picture one side by side filling out the SCREEN horizontally. I opened it up and a see a IC # WT8043 which is supposed to be a synchronous signal chip, my question is if this chip were bad would it CAUSE this type of problem?

JohnIf IC# WT8043 were available, it would cost more than a new monitor. You aren't trying to repair a CRT monitor?I think it's been a FAITHFUL Servant over the years

Sometimes you just have to let go....

9800GTX supports DUAL monitors! You don't need a 8600GT.
1. Attach two monitors to the 9800GTX and SEE if it works.
2. If it doesn't, then use the 8600GT.fixed my KMV SWITCH was acting up
and yeah i run dual monitor from my 9800 now

i have a 17 inches tft screen that i got with my HCL computer. during rains or humid climate my screen starts to flicker(green COLOUR just like in matrix movie). but it is ALRIGHT in summers. please HELP me guys.Hi, how old is your monitor? How often do you use the monitor?my monitor is almost 6 years old and i use it dailyHave you tried the monitor on another computer during similar conditions ? truenorth

To the mods: if this isn't where this topic should go, please move it to the proper place. Thanks.

Okay! A few months ago, I was having TROUBLE with my Logitech wireless keyboard. It's an older one that came in a set with a mouse, and a USB receiver that doesn't look like a USB flash drive (it's attached to the tower with a cord, and looks like a little quartered egg--if eggs were black and had buttons on them). The trouble was that I was getting extra characters when I was typing.

I talked with their SUPPORT extensively, and what finally fixed the problem was to set the keyboard to the default keyboard setting, as if it weren't a Logitech keyboard at all. The extra characters stopped appearing, but I lost the control function. It hasn't been too much of a problem; I've been able to use shift when selecting more than one file, but I foresee it becoming a problem in the near future.

Any ideas on how I can restore the control function without recreating the problem I had before?

OS: Windows XP HOME edition

I'm not sure what you need here, but if you need any more INFO, please let me know.
I have a unit much the same...
I unplugged the reciever and cleaned the front lens with eyeglass cleaner...
The issue went away.

Does your model allow for using different channels ? ?If so try a different one.
Another thing to check is cordless phones in close proximity...actually any electronic devices.Thanks for the advice. I did what you suggested, and still no control function. I have a cordless phone in the vicinity, but it's been there longer than the problem has.

I've tried to update the drivers, but when I do, I get the message that there's something missing from the logitech files. The Logitech site says that this particular model (Cordless Internet Pro) uses drivers that are already preloaded on the computer. I'm just at a loss here.

Do you or anyone else have any other suggestions?

One good thing that did happen is that I got my onscreen CAPSLOCK is on or off notification back. That was missing, too.

Hey.

OK. Ive GOT an HP 1009 LASERJET printer. All of a sudden yesterday afternoon it started doing odd stuff. For example, when I go to print something it says that there is no paper in the tray and the tray is as full as it was yesterday morning when it was working fine (save for a SINGLE sheet, cos I PRINTED something in the morning). Thought it might be in manual feed mode, but it wasnt. I tried reinstalling the driver, but that didnt help. Checked the help stuff that was provided with the driver and that didnt help either.

Today I cant print stuff off the internet - I get a message saying that an unknown error has occured. Considered the possibility of a virus, but I doubt thats the case, as Ive never heard of a virus that attacks printer software specifically, unless of course the printer is just the start of the trouble.

Has anyone got any idea as to what this could be or how I can find out?

Cheers, guys.

feenix

Thoroughly examine the paper tray and make sure there is no jam. Also make sure it is on a flat surface. I know it seems like it doesn't matter, but I had a problem with an HP Laser that was hanging off the edge of the table. Other than that, I think you should contact the HP support. I know that is a b****, but they will be of more help.How old is the printer?

Do you have another computer you could test the printer with?

I'm not familiar with that model, but some have a small sensor to detect if there's paper in the tray. It's usually a little plastic bit that sticks up and is pressed upon by inserted paper to sense the paper is there. See if you can locate this and make sure it isn't stuck or broken.Hi

Try powering the printer on, holding the power button this should print a status page. If not the problem is in the printer. either as said before a paper jam or some other error.

Hey, guys.

Found that for some REASON the driver hadnt reinstalled properly. Then it was still doing the same thing, but I tracked it back to settings in word 2010 (turned out it was only a problem in word and the settings had been changed, possibly because I had been using adobe acrobat as the default printer so that I could work in A3 for stuff that I wasnt going to print).

Problem solved - cheers for your suggestions. :-)

Feenix

I have brought a Seagate 1TB portable HARD drive a few days ago, either my computer or another computer has PUT 3 Folders. One I was able to delete, but 2 remain. (9a2580e54addb2210ad2cc and 27e2fa99ed6e2e6f0f71440239cb8804) I could delete a few files in the folders, but there are a heap of other files and folders still in there. I click delete and it says that i need to be system admin, which i am. I then click on continue, but then it comes up saying I have been denied, and that i need permission and permission from SYSTEM... I changed the settings for every users and system etc to full CONTROL....http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc753659.aspxThankyou very much...instead of clicking on Owner, I had to change the settings in permission...THANKS ALOT!