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We have a Canon imageCLASS mf4270 s/c/p/f and the TROUBLE is this: the default setting is stuck on printing 2-sided.

The Copy Setting default field for 2-Sided Printing says "Off", but the shortcut button ("2-Sided") always says "On" and it will print 2-sided. If we press "2-Sided->Off->OK" then press "2-Sided" again, it is back to "On." We have to manually turn it off using the shortcut button for EVERY single print/copy job. We have tried clearing all the DRAM and Memory, turning off then on, looked through the User Guide, but to no avail.

Any one have an idea on this one, or perhaps is the software corrupted?Try this:
Remove software for that printer.
Install it over again, pay attention to all options.
Before you remove the software and re-install...

Open any program on your PC that allows you to print. Click File/Print and make sure your printer is selected. Click the "Properties" button, or tab to check the settings for the printer. You may be able to turn Duplex printing off from there...just click OK after you change the setting...and let us know if it works.I tried the computer software side adjustment to the printer properties but that is not the problem.

The copier settings (all-in-one) seems stuck in the hardware, even when its not connected to the computer.
You stated, originally...

Quote

Any one have an idea on this one, or perhaps is the software corrupted?

I tried the computer software side adjustment to the printer properties but that is not the problem.

You stated, originally...
Quote

Any one have an idea on this one, or perhaps is the software corrupted?

You were given two options for a possible software fix...and then you state...
Quote

I tried the computer software side adjustment to the printer properties but that is not the problem.

If the software side is not the issue...have you tried the Stop/Reset button? If that didn't work and your Standard settings for Copying/Printing show 2-sided printing is off and removing and re-installing the driver and software does not fix the issue, then you may be better off contacting Canon regarding this issue.

Hello everyone.

I come to you in search of a solution for my FRIENDS seemingly hopeless desktop! I built this computer for him about 5 years ago and for its time it was a good computer but It looks a bit gone. Anyway here is the scoop.

He GAVE it to me because it supposedly would randomly reboot. I ran the usual tests for nasty viruses and spy ware with various programs but nothing was discovered. So I gathered all of his data for him and went ahead to do a fresh format. Now during the reinstall of Windows I get the Blue Screen Of Death at random moments. Since I cannot screen capture what it said I COPIED the important part down.

PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
***STOP: 0x00000050(0xAFC66008,0x00000000,0x80552970,0x000000000

This computer is
1GB DDR2 RAM
ASUS P5L-MX Motherboard
Windows XP Home Edition
Radeon X800 Graphics Card
Pentium 4 Processor

There has been no hardware modifications to this computer either but I am beginning to think this problem is the cause of the untimely demise of some part inside the computer...If you NEED anymore information on my end just ask. I appreciate your time!


First check to see if the computer is dust free on the inside, re-seat cables, and make sure fans are spinning while the computer is on.

If that is all good, then your problem may be due to a bad ram module. First try re-seating your ram and if it doesn't work, try running the computer with only one ram module installed at a time, in the slot closest to the processor...

If you only have one ram module installed, download and run "memtest86" and run the test for a couple of hours to see if any errors come up.

It could also be be due to your graphics card, if you have onboard video, try plugging the monitor into the onboard connector instead...

From Microsoft Technet:

Stop Error 0x00000050
Stop error number:(0x00000050)
Descriptive text:PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Usual cause:Memory error (data cannot be swapped out to disk using the
paging file).

To troubleshoot Stop error 0x00000050
1.Remove any NEWLY installed hardware (RAM, adapters, hard disks, modems, and so on).
2.Run any system diagnostics supplied by your computer manufacturer, especially the memory check.
3.Verify that any new hardware or software is properly installed. If this is a new installation, contact your hardware or software manufacturer for any Windows 2000 updates or drivers you might need.
4.If the computer is formatted with NTFS, restart your computer, and then run Chkdsk /r on the system partition. If you cannot start the system due to the error, use the Command Console and run Chkdsk /r.
5.Disable or uninstall any antivirus programs.
6.Disable BIOS memory options such as caching or shadowing.

I am on a NETBOOK, because my PC has burnt out.

I find the keyboard too LITTLE.

Is it possible to OVERRIDE this keyboard with my own proper keboard (and MOUSE) and just use this little netbook screen?

It's a USB keyboard and mouse.

Thanks.What is the model of the netbook?

What is wrong with your desktop machine?

Any USB keyboard should work.Thanks for your replies.

It is a MSi U130 netbook (Win 7).

My MAIN PC, it just won't turn on. I saw a kind of blue spark and it just went 'night night'. I thought the electricity had gone at first, but it was only the PC. I have tried it in other mains sockets, but it just won't come on.

It's a pity because I have had him for years and almost regard him as a person!

Thanks. I will try the keyboard.

Cheers

it is a Dell vostro cpu, when power button turned on fans are working but the first BEEP & the boot screen is not at all. usually the power button remains yellow instead of turning to blue when booting, i felt something with the PROCESSOR , i'm on it from the DETAILS from here. like to KNOW more reply soon.....

I DELETED the link in your signature and the unnecessary emoticons.

Hello everybody! i have a question for you all

is there any way to fix a Microsoft wireless mouse model 1383 and the receiver likes to not work with the computer (Microsoft XP says unrecognized device) and the receiver likes to overheat to the POINT of burning my FINGER...

is there a way to fix this??
does Microsoft offer a replacement??
thanks to all You should contact MS customer SUPPORT or the RETAILER from whom you purchased it.

On our Windows XP computer we only have a 14 GB hardrive, and its our main drive, the C drive. And we removed as many things off of it as we possibly could, and there is only 1.08 GB (7%) space available. And the defragmenter needs at least 15% free space to defrag. We can't remove anything else, so what do we do?You could try forcing a defrag by running defrag from the Command Line with the -F parameter. Your backup should be up-to-date. At the Command Line enter defrag/? to view the available parameters.

Longer term a somewhat bigger capacity hard drive is definitely required.

Good luck.I assume that by "removed" you mean delete. get an external or a large flash drive and cut a group of files to it (just enough files to work). Defrag the hard drive and then PUT the files back. The best thing to do though would be to get a larger hard drive.I'd worry less about defragmenting and more about the space remaining on the hd. You might just want to create an image of the drive and replace it with a larger drive.This will work, http://www.defraggler.com/
Probably not...given the parameters.
Just because it's a third party app does not mean it can work miracles on a system that hasn't been maintained.well, we could create an image of it, but my dad would not want to do that, the worst thing about this is that it wasn't originally 14GB it was like 30 or something (we have 2 DISK drives C drive 14GB and D drive 100GB, and of course the C is the main drive, but there isn't enough space to put anything on it) but then we had to have it repaired, and it only had 14GB then. so im thinking the guy who fixed it made a partition. So how do I get rid of the partition?If you don't know what that partition is doing or has on it then getting rid of it might be VERY VERY bad. If it is your dads computer then ask him before doing anything.Quote from: Gate001 on September 20, 2009, 10:38:50 PM

so im thinking the guy who fixed it made a partition. So how do I get rid of the partition?

If it is your dads computer then ask him before doing anything.

Hi, my problem is as follows. Different numbers on the keyboard has stopped working, at first there was just "h". But when I GOT back from work the other day "t "space" "c"6""7""g""v" also wouldn't work. This started happening after i got a different adapter to the computer, its a laptop. This adapter has between 17 to 21 volts and the computer has 19 volts. I went to the place where i bought the adapter before all this happened to see if it would work with my computer. They told me it would... and it does.

My question is, how can i get my keyboard to work again?

I'm using windows 7
Hello Johannessss!

I personally would get rid of the adapter and try a new one. Plus if your adapter is 17-21 volts and your computer only has 19, this is probably the reason why. If there isnt enough power to the adapter things will just not work.. I suggest getting a adapter with a lower Voltage intake.Quote from: DamianLohrenz on June 30, 2011, 11:49:48 PM

if your adapter is 17-21 volts and your computer only has 19

I would like to watch TV on my laptop.

How do I connect the TV-cable (from the WALL) into a laptop (which has vga, usb, pc card)? what adapter would i need to buy?

thanks.Several companies make a TV tuner card to plugs into your PC card slot. Make sure you get one that does digital or clear QAM and not just analog.You need to buy a cable and plug it in. I believe it's a vga cable but the store knows what they are called.Ignore the above post. rthompson80819 has it right - you need a tv tuner card.hiyou, If your objective is to " I would like to watch TV on my laptop." and NOT to want to necessarily use your coax cable from your external source then you can do so provided you have a high speed connection available to your laptop and it is a sufficiently recent computer with adequate RAM. You will be limited as to what you can watch by virtue of the LIMITATIONS of the particular types of TV you desire to watch and whether you MUST be watching it as it is produced. If on the other hand you don't mind watching shows than can be hours to a day old then many commercial channels and PBS (U.S.) make their shows available on line. Also many channels do live web based streaming of news programming. But if you want to watch let us say a current sports event as it is happening that is unlikely to be available at initial time of broadcast. If you do want to do what i have mentioned and meet the earlier stated requirements then you don't need ANYTHING other than a proprietary software for the particular channel you want to watch. These are always made available free by the station on their website. An alternative for what it's worth depending on your desires.truenorth
Quote

You need to buy a cable and plug it in. I believe it's a vga cable but the store knows what they are called.

2 days ago i bought a wireless mouse by Trust version 16536.After i plugged its USB in i could only use the mouse about 1 hour and then it stopped working.Everything shows that it's connected and so, mouse LAZER is working and shining and everything. So i thought it was because of the batteries, i bought brand new batteries and placed them. Still nothing, it still doesnt work. So i gave up and went to sleep, but in the morning, i gave it a try and it worked but unfortunatelly again for about a hour... so i need help with it, i have win7 but i dont know if it affects it. ANY1 know any solutions for it? ive googled last 2 days but havent found ANYTHING that helped to GET it work propelly.I'd return it for a replacement...Quote from: patio on July 01, 2011, 01:02:34 PM

I'd return it for a replacement...

Anyone know if the Hybrid Platter/Solid State drives are worth buying or wait longer for a true solid state drive? I looked for a hard drive bench MARK that might show where these are better than older platter drives but just shy of a true solid state drive, but havent found anything.

This deal here for a 500GB hybrid drive for $99.99 got me wondering if I should get a hybrid drive or not: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-Details.asp?EdpNo=6280178&sku=TMD-500AS4&SRCCODE=WEM2725BY&cm_mmc=email-_-Main-_-WEM2725-_-tigeremail2725

If its just a older style platter type drive with a large cache pool its probably not worth it, but if it has other benefits for solid state storage where as a portion of it for gaming can hold a video game to run like a solid state, and be told SOMEHOW that the lesser performance data be placed on platters that would be SWEET. But I am sure this is not the case.Hard to SAY. I will wait. Because I am broke. No hay dinero.
Your tube: Search results for: Soild State Hybrid

I have not turned my Epson R1900 printer on in a few months and today, after turning I on, it is registering a paper JAM. However, I cannot find any obstructions inside. I have contacted Epson who are quoting €220+ for a repair, which is not worth it. Is there anything I can do?

Thanks,
PaulHave you tried canned air on it to blow out any dust etc from its inside? 99% of the time its as simple as blowing it out to remove obstruction.

There are 2 types of sensors that when triggered it thinks paper is present or jammed. I have seen where a fuzzball or ink gets on this sensor if a break beam type, although ink on it was only from a person who had a printer in use for about a year tipped it on its side when cleaning her DESK and excess ink in the waste ink tray ran out of the tray and ACROSS the sensor surface. Each time you perform a print head / nozzle clean it dumps ink into this compartment that over time can build up a GOOD amount of wasted ink $$$.

If canned air wont do it, look for the paper sensor. Some are a break beam type detection and others have a small plastic mechanical flag that triggers sensor for paper detected or jam when in position of paper present. These cheap plastic mechanical flags get stuck sometimes. If you have this type of paper present/jam sensor check to make sure it moves freely and rests in the non-paper present/jam position.

Dell System Dimension 4550 Series
Pheonix ROM BIOS PLUS Version 1.10 A08

I just put a NEW hard drive in, and now the computer refuses to boot whatsoever. The only screen I get to says.....

Quote

Diskette Drive 0 Seek Failure
PRIMARY Hard Disk Drive 1 Not Found
Secondary Hard Disk Drive 0 Not Found
Secondary Hard Disk Drive 1 Not Found

Strike the F1 Key to Continue, Strike F2 to Run the Setup Utility

Primary Hard Disk 1 Drive Not Found
Secondary Hard Disk Drive 1 Not Found

Strike F1 to continue, F2 to go to the setup utility.....

- Primary Drive 0 = Hard Drive
Model: WDC WD800BB-22FJAI
Drive Type: Auto
Capacity: 80020 MB

- Primary Drive 1 = Unkown Device
Model: Unkown
Drive Type: Auto
Capacity: n/a

- Secondary Drive 0 - CD ROM Reader
Model: _NEC DVD+RW ND-2100AD
Drive Type - Auto
Capacity: n/a

- Secondary Drive 1 - Unkown Device
Model: Unkown
Drive Type: Auto
Capacity

I have a Emachine T3646 thats operating on Windows Vista. I was wanting to know if it is possible to intall a DVI port onto the computer? And if so what is REQUIRED to get it working?To have a DVI port you need to start looking at buying a decent video CARD...
Does your MONITOR have a DVI input?You need to add a nVidia or ATI video card or a VGA to DVI converter. I will recommend the nVidia or ATI card because it can also increase preformance and on some cards, you have two DVI so dual MONITORS.

hello, again I have a problem.
I use 3 HDD's. The first hdd has 1 partition, the rest have 2.
I tried in windows 7 to use partition magic and an error occured while trying to make one partition on the 3'rd hdd
Now the partitions from the 3'rd hdd are vanished. I had important stuff on one of the affected partitions, how can I repair the pc and if possible to recover the lost data.
Thank you all for helping me every time:DFirst of all, Partition Magic isn't compatible with any version of Windows later than XP - so while I don't know what you did, I do know you didn't' use Partition Magic to do it.. Second, you need to provide a lot more information about exactly what you did, how you did it, and what the current state is of your system. IN DETAILC: is on the first hdd
D: and E: on the second
F and G on the last hdd
The problem is on the F and G
On F i have important stuff.
First on partition magic i selected delete on G
Second delete F
After this I selected CREATE new partition and resized to take all the hdd memory.
Clicked APPLY and bang...error
Now partition magic shows that the hdd is connected but all empty with no partitions and vanished from explorer tooQuote from: alecsillidan on July 01, 2011, 05:02:49 PM

...
The problem is on the F and G
On F i have important stuff.
First on partition magic i selected delete on G
Second delete F
...

Kinda surprised that ANY DSL provider here in Canada does NOT supply a modem with their service.truenorth
Have you checked out what DSL service providers are available in Kingston? truenorth

Hi everyone, I am upping my SYSTEM but I can't make up my mined on a motherboard. I am going to get the i5 and start out with 4Gb DDR3-1333MHz. I have narrowed the selection down to two.
MSI
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5083742&sku=M452-6071
and Gigabyte
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=5019779&sku=G452-0100

They are very similar in specs and price so there is not much to it.
My criteria: these boards are on the edge of my budget, so ya. I am getting 5.1 surround sound so I want to put a nice sound card in their later, but for now, can you tell if one has better on-board sound then the other? I will eventually be putting in 2x gtx260 core216 in sli but will not GO any further so two x16 dims are fine.

I looked up as much as i could and could not find any major difference. Please let me know if you know anything about these boards and if you think one is better then the other.

Thanks.Can't comment on the sound part of it but by personal experience i would go with the Gigabyte...Have you just had good experiences with gigabyte? If so then can you tell me why you like them.I am not sure about the sound either, but I did notice they were each $10 cheaper on newegg. Free shipping also.And tax. I live in California so i don't get tax. It ends up cheaper.The last 3 builds i did for Customers i used the Gigabyte brand MBoards...
Good results all around.

I can't say the same about MSI boards so i'll leave it at that.

You pretty much can't go wrong with the ASUS brand as well...I have an ASUS right now and it is grate but the 1156 ones don't FIT my criteria. The builds you did turned out well but were there any particular features of the boards or the COMPANY that make it good? I just want to make sure that I get the better of the two.Trust me...I want to, but I cant just go on blind faith. PEASE give some examples. Since hejlik brought up newegg I decided to look and see if i can get any extra info off of their. I know that the the 1156 socket is new but the msi mobo has 2x5 star ratings and the gig. has 1x4star rating. But if you can give me a good REASONS then i will go with the gig.Well I went with the MSI board so I'll let you know how it works out.I don't know Gigabyte and MSI. Choose the best motherboard with the best features.

My old computer (about 5 years old) has gotten very SLOW booting up and shutting down. Thinking there may be things running in the background, I've done all kinds of scans for viruses, spyware, registry errors, etc. to no avail! Taking advantage of a sale at Walmart, I bought a new computer.

I have a lot of files I'd like to transfer but don't want to transfer any viruses or malware with them. Is there a safe way to transfer files?

My old computer is an HP running Windows XP Home with all updates. The new one is an EMACHINES with Vista Home Basic. There are excellent tools available in this section to get your old computer clean, then you can transfer files till the cows COME home. Thanks for your guide to cleaning my old computer! I've BEGUN the process and I may be jumping the gun, but I have to ask. Having never transferred files from one computer to another, what is the best way to do it? Is there going to be a problem going from XP to Vista? I plan on doing fresh downloads where possible but my data files will have to be moved.I recently opened up a thread because my laptop totally died and I wanted to recover the files. I think the easiest way to recover any files is to find out the specification of your old computers hard drive, i presume being 5 year old desktop its a 3.5 inch IDE and buy a caddy or an adaptor for it. Then you can simply plug it into your new computer via a USB and drop and drag any files.

Computer_Commando posted this
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812156017

as a solution. To Lectrocrew:
I've completed your CLEANUP procedure and only found errors in Malwarebytes & Hijackthis. Logs were created for both which I saved to my desktop. Who & how should I forward them to for analysis? I've found these tools very helpful and plan on putting them on my new computer after the file transfer process. Thanks again............

My dvd drive on my laptop stopped working for some reason. not sure what is wrong. When i open the device manager everything is alright, the driver is up to date, the drive is recognized and everything. The thing is that when I put a disc in, doesn't matter what kind, I can hear the drive start up but immediately stops. Then sometimes it will start and stop 3 times. I know this laptop is old and out of date but I am partial to it since it got me through college. Please don't tell me to get a new laptop, I just WANT to get it working.


Thanks for the help. The DVD drive can be repaired or replaced. DEPENDS on where you live, and the talents of the local people, the laser can be replaced. Kinda like fixing a watch. REQUIRES good eyes and a steady hand. Or just buy the REPLACEMENT DVD drive.

BTW: You did not say what OS you have. There is a common issue with some of those drives and Vista and Windows 7.
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_vista-hardware/hp-pavilion-with-vista-matshita-dvd-ram-uj-861h/cb66fdf1-f13a-47d7-b4ee-901f8fdf7f00
If that sounds like your problem., IGNORE what I said and follow the advice on the link. There may be a software solution. Or maybe just dirty contacts on the interface.

Oh ya I see it now. Ok the thing you need to do is upgrade the hole thing. You don't need a gaming MOTHER BOARD unless you are going to be doing hard core gaming and or overclocking. for that you will need at least a dual core cpu and when you upgrade you will need to get a video card because most gaming mobos don't have built in graphics. So just upgrade the hole thing.This MAKES very little if any SENSE....

Thanks for your reply.

I don't think there is any differences between regions as far as how a hard disk drive comes in.

I've tried to see some picutures from EBAY and Amazon, and those that I can see shows there is a black plastic part. But I was given a dead hard drive that was replaced in another laptop with just the pins shows and no plastic part that is inserted into the pins. Thus my question as to which.I suspect your hard drive is the one shown on the right:


The "black plastic part" is an adapter for the FLEXIBLE ribbon cable.Quote from: Computer_Commando on June 30, 2011, 10:02:44 AM

I suspect your hard drive is the one shown on the right:


The "black plastic part" is an adapter for the flexible ribbon cable.

...
1) anyone has any recommendation as to the brand in terms of performance and relability ?
2) is there any difference between a 500GB and a 320GB apart from its storage capacity ? I'm talking here in terms of speed and performance if both have the same 5400rpm ?...

2) is there any difference between a 500GB and a 320GB apart from its storage capacity ? I'm talking here in terms of speed and performance if both have the same 5400rpm ?...

Are you saying your drive is SATA? The "black plastic" on the SATA drive is NOT removeable.
1) Seagate or Western Digital
2) No difference.

The two drives have the same specs. If the maker says so.
But the storage capacity does make a deference. in performance. The specs can be the same. But the specs are fort he given storage capacity.

Let's say you have a 320 GB drive with 310 GB on it. And you have a 500 GB drive also with 310 GB on it. In real world use, the overstuffed drive will start to thrash because the OS can not find large open areas for large files. But the drive with more free space with get work dome quicker. But both have the same specs. Except for capacity.

When trying to copy or even PRINT anything with the Canon MF3110 Laserbase printer it only prints the first PAGE and then an error report appears on the screen of the printer telling to change paper size. The settings are all set on A4 paper and I tried buying the best and thickest paper and the problem persists. Could you GIVE any advice on how to default the settings or could it be just a problem with the computer?If you are running Vista 64 bit, MF3110 paper size change after 1 page: known problem with Windows 64 bit. Reason: no 64 bit driver released by Canon. Solution: buy a printer with x64 driver available. ALTERNATIVE: INSTALL 32 bit OS.

Possible workaround:

1- Download Driver For MF5730/5750/5770 For Vista 64-Bit

File Name : L7602ENx.exe

http://software.canon-europe.com/products/0010260.asp

Follow These Steps

1- Add Printer
2- add a local printer
3- Use an existing Port : Choose : USB ( Virtual Printer for USB )
4- Have Disk
5- Locate the File Name : MF5700AK.inf
6- Printer Name : Change From Canon MF5700 Series To Canon MF3110 Series
7- Print Test Page

2. Scanner may still not work, so try this

Wherever you unpacked the 5730 driver files, locate the file named MF12SCN.INF.

Look for this section:
[Models.NTamd64.5.1]

Add this line to the section:
%LPTENUM\MF3110.DeviceDesc%=MF5730Install_XP,USB\VID_04A9&PID_2660&MI_00

Save the file.

In the Control panel, open Device Manager and find the MF3110 device that has the exclamation mark. Open its Properties. Pick Update Driver. Pick Browse My Computer. Pick the folder where you found the MF12SCN.INF. Windows will find the driver and install it. it will give it a strange name, but the scanner will work.

[Found on web, not tested!)

My Canon Pixma MG5200 Series ink jet printer doesn't seem to allow for multiple page DOCUMENTS to be scanned and saved as one document. No matter what scan mode I'm in (auto, ETC.), there are no instructions pertaining to the above.

Am I MISSING something?

Thanks in ADVANCE for your help!

I have a HP PHOTOSMART 3100 all-in-one series printer. EVERYTIME I turn it on it starts to print a test screen. Any idea how to stop it from doing this on start-up?

Thanks for your helpHopefully the suggestions contained here will stop your annoying problem. good luck,truenorth
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20071108192642AAxWVOlI was ABLE to FIND the solution from your link. Thanks for your time and helpYou are very welcome.truenorth

I installed this utility from Intel and as the title states, the utility shows the "expected" CPU speed is 2.67 ghz on this processor, however, it is "reporting" at 1.59 ghz. I'm not SURE whats causing this because the two speeds should match. I have already done an RMA for a new processor with the same results. I've tried various MB bios settings but nothing has helped. I'm using a Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD3R MB. Any input would be great. Thank you.Get CPU-Z: http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php
POST a screenshot.Here are screenshots from both cpu-z and the Intel Processor ID Utility.

[attachment deleted by admin]I'm not sure what's the issue here. SpeedStep?Sidestep, maybe but the Intel Utility program loads the cpu so it is supposed to operate at max speed. This is EVIDENT when I see that the cpu usage is pegged at 100% when the utility runs.You'll have to ask Intel why their utility is not reporting correctly.Thats the sad part. They don't know. They even had me do an RMA for a different processor but that processor is producing the same results. They want me to test the processor with a different motherboard but I don't have access to a different motherboard.Quote

They don't know

I recently bought an AMD based PC (AMD 7750 BE, Asus M3N78EM board with HD audio, 2 GB 800MHz DDR2 Corsair XMS2, 400 W Cooler Master box). What I notice is the sound system really sucks.. I previously had another AMD system (AMD Sempron 2500+, MSI RS480M, 1 GB 400MHz TwinMos DDR). This problem is carry forwarded to my new system. I also had Intel based systems (Intel Pentium 4 3 GHz, Intel 865 GBF, 512 MB 333 MHz DDR), but the audio in this system too good. I have used serveral other Intel based systems, C2D based, branded ones Lenovo ThinkCenter, etc. No complaints.

If I need to be precise, I can say that when I listen to a MP3 file rendered at 128 Kbps, I get a crystal clear, LOUD sound in my Head phone as well as desktop speaker at 20 units of Media player's sound level with the system sound at 100%. The same file gives a similar output when played on a new Intel C2D based system with HD audio at 15 units (approx.) of Media player's sound level. Similar should be the case when the same file is played in an iPod Shuffle. But, when it comes to the AMD systems (mentioned above), I get this amount of sound output at around 45 units of Media player's sound level with the system sound at 100%. This is really something not good. Media files rendered at 128 Kbps can be managed some how in this way, but what happens to files rendered at 50 or 64 Kbps. The AMD systems hardly has any strength to play.

My QUESTION to you guys... Are all AMD systems meant to be like this ?? Is there any setting that needs to be tweaked or changed to get a similar audio experience as in Intel systems apart from original driver installation ??

Any help/insights will gr8ly appreciated.The processor has nothing to do with the sound quality. Now i did not really read the hole thing but if it is on-board sound then it is eather crappy on-board or the on-board is damaged. Get a sound card if it is so important to you.additionally bit-rate is unrelated to sound volume.And ambient noise can be found anywhere...
We actually have sattelite dishes looking for it on a regular basis...Guys.. Im using the CPU brand (AMD & Intel) as a line of differenciatation.. I dont mean to say that it is CPU or the CPU manufacturer who is influencing the quality of sound..

I mean to say that the PCs based upon Intel CPU (the older Pentium 4 based and the newer C2D based) are producing consistently good sound, of course with different motherboards and diferent sound chips on them. But PCs based upon AMD CPU (the older AMD Sempron and the newer AMD Athlon X2) are not producing good sound consistently when compared [Comparison done between Intel based PC and AMD based PC] and again with different brands of motherboards and sound chips on them.

So, there can be 2 things happening..
1) I am missing an audio setting in the Control Panel of AMD based PCs, which by CHANGING can give an audio quality as good as in the Intel based PCs. [Already updated HD audio drivers from Realtek and Nvidia]
OR
2) The board manufacturers goof-up.. they integrate a better audio chip for Intel based boards and poor ones for AMD based boards.. (Used MSI and Asus boards for AMD & Gigabyte and Asus boards for Intel, all with Realtek audio chipsets, also used Lenovo ThinCenter with Intel C2D, unknown board, SoundMax audio)

* All comparison done with the on-board audioFigure out what audio chip you have on both and look them up. If the newer pc has the same or newer chip as the old one then the chip is bad.except there are multiple AMD and multiple Intel PCs involved here, and the only thing consistent is that only the AMD based PCs have on-board sound issues.Sorry, Patio.. I COULD not understand what you said..

BC_Programmer: Bit-rate does affect the sound volume too apart from the clarity.. but now, I think u got the problem.. the AMD PCs are not giving good audio as compared with even the older Intel P4 PCs..

I used a 128 bit audio file as just a bench mark for testing the sound quality of both the systems.. although initially, I coincidently did, but when I found this difference I intentionally choose the same file with the same speakers and headphones to compare..

god knows whts really wrong with probably the board vendors when it comes to AMD..

ive just set up a new laptop Acer ASPIRE 5730 250gbHDD ive burned the recovery disc 6 in total is this the usual amount of disc it takes.
When i click on mycomputer it shows two partitions on the HDD yet i can only boot to one of them.
I dont know if one of these partitions is just a backup but it is equal in SIZE to the partition that contains WinVista that i boot up to this seems a large chunk of the HDD for a backup.
I dont really understand computers that dont come with the O/s disc so dont understand how the backup stystem works when having problems with the computer only got the computer yesterday.
Thanks for any help jhadd
hmmm....so when you go to my computer you see 2 volumes? eg. C: 120GB and D: 120GB?

Vista is installed on C: *most likely*, and you'll see a small window icon on the volume that vista is installed on. you only ever boot into that volume. Often what happens is your hard disk will be partitioned into 2 volumes, a system partition where you install all your programs, and a data partition where you can store data. Don't worry yourself about not being able to boot into the other volume haha.

The other possibilty, is your laptop came with a recovery partition. HP, for example, often does this, and does not give consumers a OS installation disc. However, recovery partitions shouldn't be nearly as large as your system partition. typically around 7-10 gigs.

I have a FAX Modem and I am useing the win xp pro Phone Dialer to make calls one the Phone Lines.

When it Dials a number I can here it but out of the Little speaker on the Motherboard.
How do I get it to COME out the DESKTOP SPEAKERS???

I am looking in the help files but I don't seem to know the right settings to do.

Can someone help??I think is has something to do with the drivers and SOFTWARE for the FAX modem.
Check in Control Panel and find the place where you can ADJUST the mixer. Maybe there is something there.

Thanks for the explanation.
I'll POST back here when I try out my FIRST fax, HOPEFULLY with no more QUESTIONS.

1.) does anyone KNOW how to USE rshut pro for my primary purpose (WAKE on lan).

I want to set up wake on lan and i have gone through all settings on my marvel lan adapter.

I have all those settings set and in the bios i have pci enabled to wake pc and PCIE also.

If anyone has knowlege with this program or my GOAL please help.

thanks

I cannot load my image with PEAR pc it says it can not find any bootable partitions.

it was converted from .dmg to .iso (the size of the image is bigger so I cant imagine it not having all the files it needs)

I am using the pear_pc package from the direct website and i have a video tutorial i followed EXACTLY. I have formatted a FAT32 partition for the mac setup.

the other error i get when starting the pear pc is it cannot open the iso (originally dmg) (i used power iso to convert it)

now the place i put this is on the N: drive (the fat32 drive) when i leave this image on the c: drive in the exact folder i sometimes get the error below or i sometimes get the non bootable partition error.

here is the "cant open" error i get when i dont get the partition error:

GenuineIntel
CMOV MMX SSE SSE2 SSE3
[IO/IDE] C:\Documents and Settings\GCS\Desktop\PearPC.net package\snowleopard_10a432_userdvd.iso: could not open file (No error)

Hello EVERYONE,

I just bought a 23 inch LCD monitor (1920x1080), and I'm having some issues running video. The screen looks great in full resolution, and video works fine, when its a small size. When I try to enlarge the video, from say a site like HULU, my CPU usage goes to 100% and the video is extremely jerky. When I decrease the resolution, I can increase the video size.

My question is, is this most likely a COMPUTER ISSUE or a video card issue? If it is a video card issue, could I just upgrade in order to fix it, or will the SLOW processor keep me from running full video no matter what type of video card I have?

Specs:
Pentium 4 - 2.53 Ghz
1.50 GB RAM

Video Card:
ATI Radeon 9550 - 256 MB DDR
Have you tried updating the driver for the video card, or reinstalling the driver?


Which version of Flash Player are you currently using? Hulu requires 9.0 or higher...

edit: you could also try uninstalling Flash Player and REinstalling it..

Well technically it could go either way , some older drivers may fix the issue as well.

Hello

My XP tower has burnt out - the MOTHERBOARD I presume - so I was hoping to remove the hard DRIVE(s) from that tower and insert them into my old Gateway Win 98 PC (providing the DRIVES are compatible).

Providing the motherboard of the Gateway Win 98 PC is strong ENOUGH to hold XP, is that possible and, if so, would I NEED to reinstall XP?

Thanks

High1Yes, you would need to format and reinstall.Many thanks for that Allan.

Cheers

High1Sure.

I have gone through about a hundred DVD-Rs and I am out of pocket MONEY. The wife likes to watch movies in the bedroom. There is hardly any space left there to wet up my laptop. So I burn DVDs and take them to the bedroom.

I have a stack of VHS tapes that we don't use anymore. The recorder is dual VCR and DVD. I always MESS up the DVD recorder, but the VHS I can handle. Just push the button. The DVD recorder requires an IQ test before it will run and I always fail.

Yes, the DVDs are really better. When I get it right. When I goof I get e a bad CD. And don't get me started about DVD-R/W woes. I am going back to NAPE. Until I run out of tape,. Never should have gave AWAY my BETA machine.

I recently had an external hard drive with all my games and music on, but it completely failed on me and is beyond repair. The main problem is that when i try to uninstall software on my computer it says the uninstall cannot be found becuase it was on the hard drive. Is there anyway of uninstalling these programs without wiping my hard drive?You can try uninstalling through the ADD / Remove Programs in CONTROL PANEL.
(I'm guessing you're using some version of Windows.)Im using Vista by the way.
I tried but an error message appeared saying the uninstall is in the hard drive but THERES no way i can GET to it.

I have an old (about 7 years old) IDE 40 GB hard drive that I use as a second DATA drive in my desktop PC. It’s worked flawlessly for years. For background, I’m working in Windows XP SP2 on a Dell 2400. I have the drive set in the “slave” mode via the jumper pins. When I ORIGINALLY installed the drive, my PC recognized it right away, automatically assigned it a drive letter, and life has been fine since.

Until the other day, when the drive suddenly disappeared – when I click on “My Computer,” only my main “C” drive shows up under Hard Disk Drives. It used to show a “C” and a “J” drives.

However, when I go into Devise Manager and look under Disk Drives, BOTH hard drives are there, with their unique ID numbers. So to some extent, my computer is recognizing this slave drive. However, there’s no way to get to the data on it.

I hear no obviously clicking or noise from the drive. The drive appears to be getting power since it’s warm (not hot) to the touch when the PC is on, and I feel a slight vibration when I touch the drive when the computer is on.

A few things I already checked:

* I changed the power cable and the ribbon cable. No help.

* I installed this slave drive in another similar desktop that I own. Interestingly, Windows XP automatically detected the new hardware and installed it. However, like on the original PC, the drive is visible in Devise Manager, but does not appear in My Computer. (No drive letter was assigned.)

* As a double check, I took the slave drive from this other computer and installed it in the original PC. It recognized the slave drive right away, assigning it the drive letter “J” in My Computer and allowing full access.

So, it appears that I ruled out any motherboard problems, cable failures, or Windows problems.

I would like to be able to recover the data on this slave drive. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do? Is there any recovery software that might work? Or, does this sound like a mechanical issue with the drive?
Right clik My Computer....select Manage...then Disk Management.
Right clik the drive and select properties...
Report back with the results.I am at work, the computer in question is at home. But I can tell you that I did that and it REPORTED that the devise is working fine and the driver is up to date.

Quote from: patio on September 23, 2009, 10:25:37 AM

Right clik My Computer....select Manage...then Disk Management.
Right clik the drive and select properties...
Report back with the results.

I have an old (about 7 years old) IDE 40 GB hard drive that I use as a second data drive in my desktop PC. It’s worked flawlessly for years....

I have a Gateway 450sx4. The case gets really hot, ALMOST too hot to touch. It spontaneously shuts off after a few minutes. I've taken the CPU cooling system out. It LOOKS OK, except for several discolored fins. The fan spins freely and had almost no dust on the blades. Is there a way I can test the unit before I reassemble the laptop?Yes, but you have to remove the fan.
Can't you hear the fan when it comes on?
Mine sounds rather loud when it starts.Internal laptop fans are inexpensive. I would suggest adding another external laptop cooling fans if laptop works for many hours.Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 03, 2011, 10:51:39 PM

Yes, but you have to remove the fan.
Can't you hear the fan when it comes on?
Mine sounds rather loud when it starts.

Internal laptop fans are inexpensive. I would suggest adding another external laptop cooling fans if laptop works for many hours.

My Dad's company was replacing their computers with newer models and were giving their employees the computers from free. I've been having PROBLEMS with my 5 year old Dell laptop so I decided to transfer all my files to the new computer.

The new computer is a "Compaq" with Windows XP and I was TOLD it was about 3 years old. I plug in my MOUSE and the computer makes a noise that it recognizes new hardware but the mouse won't move on my screen. I plugged the same mouse into my parents computer and had no problems. I bought the mouse with my laptop 5 years ago and I don't think I had to install any drivers to get the mouse to work.

Any ideas how I can fix this?

Im assuming its a USB mouse? Have you tried different USB ports on your computer?Are you plugging the mouse into ports on the front or the back of the computer?Yes, USB.

2 ports in the front and 2 in the back. I tried all 4 and nothing works.

I'm not sure what you call it but I have this thing you plug into one USB port and it gives you 4 USB ports. Only in 2 of the inlets the light on my mouse turns on but it still doesn't work. If I plug my mouse into any other USB ports my mouse light doens't come on.

On the back of the computer I also have 2 other inlets (mouse/ keyboard) with the OLDER style plug. I found an older style mouse to plug in and this also doesn't work.

Since it is a work computer all the data was wiped out before they were given to the employees. I'm wondering if there was any sort of mouse driver that was wiped out?Quote

I'm not sure what you call it but I have this thing you plug into one USB port and it gives you 4 USB ports.

On the back of the computer I also have 2 other inlets (mouse/ keyboard) with the older style plug. I found an older style mouse to plug in and this also doesn't work.

Since it is a work computer all the data was wiped out before they were given to the employees. I'm wondering if there was any sort of mouse driver that was wiped out?

The generic Windows mouse drivers will run 99% of the meese out there so this is not the issue...

On the back of the computer I also have 2 other inlets (mouse/ keyboard) with the older style plug. I found an older style mouse to plug in and this also doesn't work.

while installing my new processor i had to put about 10-20 pounds of pressure on my cooling UNIT in order it to fit, which sits on top of my processor. also the clip on my motherboard squeezes it very tight, and i was wondering if it COULD RECEIVE any permanent damage from this :/ thanksThey need a LOT of pressure on the cooler to achieve good thermal CONTACT. If it is working OK just forget it.

Windows XP SP3
Intel Core 2 Duo E8500
Mobo; GA-X48-DQ6
video; ASUS ENGTX460
Ram; OCZ3G18002G X2
Mobos on-board Realtek HD audio.

Hi guys, Monday evening my computer was working perfectly. I am the only person who uses the computer. I came back a few hours later, and went to close a folder window, It lagged and it took ~3 minutes to close.
-I shut down my computer and went into safe mode. It seemed to boot at normal speed then really slow when Windows started. it took ~10 minutes from 'Welcome' to fully loaded desktop.
Everything is taking a really long time to do.
-I ran Malwarebytes. Clean. (took ~7 hours, normally TAKES ~1 on my system)
-I ran AVG. Clean.
-I attempted to delete some extra folders cluttering my desktop and the computer lagged out and froze. I LEFT it for 40 min an then restarted it.
-I Figured it may be my ram, so I swapped out my current ram for an old pair that I know was functioning when last used.
No changes.
-Swapped ram back.
-I attempted a system restore. It failed. Could not copy files. (Have lots and lots of space)
-I attempted an XP repair install, leaving it to go while I slept. it failed. Worked to 35% then said it couldn't copy files.
-I formated my master drive.
-I attempted an XP re-install. It failed. Worked to 30% then said it couldn't copy files.
-I figured my HD may be messing up, I opened up the case again and saw that the wire for my internal speaker got unplugged. I plugged it back in and booted up to see what it did.
Now I am getting a long beep that just keeps going.
My Manual says that is the code for Gfx card not inserted properly.
I also currently have my main case fan disabled, I'm running a different case fan from an external power supply. Beep could be related to my case fan being broken.
-I reseated my gfx card and still get the beep. However It don't seem to me like a gfx issue. I have had not gfx problems. and while slow to run everything LOOKS just fine. regardless I Reseated it SEVERAL more times, no change.
-Thinking 'maybe the ram' again based on the beep I swapped the ram to other slots. no change.
-Swapped em back, and here I am. Not sure what to do next.

They are all hypothesis; but I'm thinking HD failure or Mobo failure b/c of the beep, Maybe processor?

Can someone please help? Many many advanced thanks. Quote

A: The following Award BIOS beep code descriptions may help you identify possible computer problems. (For reference only.) 1 short: System boots successfully 2 short: CMOS setting error 1 long, 1 short: Memory or motherboard error 1 long, 2 short: Monitor or graphics card error 1 long, 3 short: Keyboard error 1 long, 9 short: BIOS ROM error Continuous long beeps: Graphics card not inserted properly Continuous short beeps: Power error GA-X48-DQ6 Motherboard - 110 -

im wanting to upgrade my gateway fx400 to the x58 motherboard, i7 processor and geforce gtx 295 video card. will i be able to replace just those 3 things? will the computer's CASE allow the components to keep cool? im sure i will need to buy a more powerful power supply and some better type of cooling device. what else do i need to know? ive never done anything like this before. any suggestions on the power supply wattage i need? is 700 sufficient? what type of cooling DEVICES should i get? your help is GREATLY APPRECIATED. Why do you want to keep the case? Cut down on cost? The way your making it sound is like you have a computer in working condition and just want to upgrade to a better PC. The best way from a system builders STAND point and having experience with DELLs is to simply buy a new case. I have no idea about any other plug and play computers out there but i know dell case(atleast new ones) wont fit a aftermarket motherboard. Thomas901,
You have 3 threads open on this same issue.

Quote

BTX compatibility with ATX products

The BTX form factor motherboards are incompatible with most of the ATX form factor cases and vice-versa. Moreover, cases such as the Cooler Master Series (Stackers) support a varying range of motherboard types such as ATX, BTX, Mini-ATX and so forth. However, all connectors are compatible, including power supplies, PCI cards, processors, RAM, hard drives, etc.

Criticism

BTX's thermal design specifies a particular processor location at the front of the board, where a special case ventilation duct is located. It places the northbridge behind the processor, and memory DIMMs beside the northbridge, arranged parallel to front-to-back airflow. Unfortunately, this is not possible for processors with an integrated memory controller (on-die northbridge), such as the Athlon 64 and Intel Core i7.[3] To equalize the length of the signal traces to the DIMMs, these processors must be centered in front of them. The DIMMs cannot go beside the processor, because they would then extend past the front of the motherboard, and they would obstruct the airflow if positioned behind it.

hi, i was given a emachines T1742 desktop pc it did not have a power button cap to turn it on so i had to bypass the original with ANOTHER on the motherboard and got it to turn on that way but i could not get a signal to the monitor so to RULE out that the video problem was from the monitor i connected it to a different pc and it worked just fine, i also noticed that all of the wires from the power supply looked very old, the casing on them is hard also for whatever reason somebody cut out one of the molex conections, i also found four wires that go to the floppy drive those were cut and hand twisted and taped with regular household tape, it looked very unsafe. when i first turned on the pc i also noticed that the hdd light came on then turned off and the fan was working ok, the only information that i have right now about this pc is what i have seen but i cannot ACCESS anything due to the video issue, but i took note of all the information on the stickers and they are as follows: EMACHINES T1742, MICROSOFT WIN XP HOMEEDITION PREINSTALLED, MAT NO. 133517, CD ROM 101/100 MBPS ETHERNET FOR CONNECTIVITY TO BROADBAND CABLE/ DSL, 1.70 GHZ INTEL CELERON PROCESSOR, HEADPHONE, MICROPHONE, CD ROM 4X MAX.READ, 40GB HDD ULTRA DMA, 3D GRAPHICS INTEL EXTREME GRAPHICS AGP, 56K FAX MODEM V.92 READYPCI MAXIMUM DATA TRANFER MAY VARY AND ARE LIMITED TO 53 KBS, 128 MB DDR, 6 USB PORTS 2 IN THE FRONT AND FOUR IN THE REAR, S/N: QIP2A 101 02464, PART NO. 511725. i have made sure that all the wires are no longer exposed and bare, i also took out the hdd so that i can test it out with an external adapter. i hope someone can help me out with the video signal so that i can actually get to see what this machine's physical state is. thanking you in advance.Replace the PSU...hi patio, and thank you for your reply. i am going to replace the psu, now the psu that is currently installed is 350w, when i install the new one, do you think this will help me with the video issue?, thanks again.I can;t guarantee anything...but a flakey Psu can cause all sorts of issues...
If in fact it's a problem with the video that can also be ADDRESSED...but a chopped up PSU needed replaced either way...
Who knows what they were attempting.

I Purchased i flash DISK Some time back but since then it doesn't work. If i plug it to the CPU, the computer reads that their is a you device and i open it it accepts but the problem is i can not send anything to it. It always say that It is write-protected then it INFORM me to REMOVE the the write protection a thing that i don't know. So how can i Remove the write-protection ? ( It is a BASELINE 4GB Flash)

Yours
NdamvaIs there any slider switch visible on your flash drive for TURNING on/off write-protect? Are there important files saved? If there are none, you could try formatting the disk again.No it doesn't have information but even formatting is not accessible.For the switch it doesn't have. The flash disk is possibly broken.
Or from China...
There may not even be anything INSIDE it...Quote

If i plug it to the CPU, the computer reads that their is a you device and i open it it accepts but the problem is i can not send anything to it

Ok I previouslly had it struck by lightning and it came back on 3 days later and has been working perfect for about a month now a new issue has come up. I have an emachines computer and I had to shut it down like I do every now and then because it will Disconnect me from my internet and when I use dial up and its an unexpected stop in connection I have to disconnect from it and it says that the modem is in use. (ssry if I MADE that kind of confusing). Anyway i WAITED the 15-20 seconds before starting the computer again and nothing happens when i pushed the button. I opened it up and tried a different power supply to see if it might have blown the 250 watt I was using. The fan moved slightly when I pushed the button but nothing happens afterward. I then reconnected the old power supply and it did the same thing. Its as if its getting the power but not enough is being sent in. I really don't want to have to buy a new mother board but I want a second opinion before I do.

Computer specs:

SATA 2 Hard drive 250 GB
3GB of RAM (and I did try and take out each stick of RAM and see if that would get it to run)
250 Watt power supply(I know thats not a very good PSU)
AMD dual core 2.3GHZ processor (This is the fan on top that tries to move)

So it went from working perfect to not turning on in a matter of one shut down what happened?
Borrow a known good PSU of at least 350Watts and swap it in there...
eMachines are notorious for cheap PSU's...

And yes i did see you already swapped one in but if it was not new or known to be working this could still be the issue.
Also when you borrow the other one and swap it in check to see if this machine has a PCI modem card...if it does remove it and THROW it away as it's probably fried from the hit.I tried a new PSU in it and it was 350 Watts exactlly. I also tried to take out the PCI modem and that still didn't help.Quote

And yes i did see you already swapped one in but if it was not new or known to be working this could still be the issue.

i will be getting an intel core i7 920 processor 1. which motherboard should i buy? the p6t or the x58? i will also be getting the geforce gtx 295 video card. 2.what wattage power supply should i use for these 3 components, 700? 1000??? 3. can anyone recommend a specific case to use? the cheaper and smaller the better but id like it to be able to cool everything well and and have everything fit. any other helpful INFO would be greatly appreciate. i really dont know what im doing here. a good 750w psu will do it
how much do you have to spend for motherboard and case?Quote from: Thomas901 on September 23, 2009, 01:17:15 PM

i will also be getting the geforce gtx 295 video card.

3. can anyone recommend a specific case to use? the cheaper and smaller the better but id like it to be able to cool everything well and and have everything fit.

since lightning struck close by here the other DAY I have been unable to get on the internet on my desktop computer. the computer is saying that the 56k connector is working properly but I am not showing any com ports at all on the device manager list. anybody know what the problem is or how to correct it?56k Modem (dial-up modem) is dead. Lightning inducted power surge on the telephone line has killed it.This may be a good excuse to upgrade to DSL or cable modem service. If that's not an option, invest in a good UPS battery backup unit with a surge protector for the phone line. You should have a UPS unit anyway.how can the modem still be showing as working normally though?Quote from: dehner1cat on July 05, 2011, 01:59:27 PM

... the computer is saying that the 56k connector is working properly but I am not showing any com ports at all on the device manager list...

how can the modem still be showing as working normally though?

Does anyone KNOW the beep codes for msi motherboard please?
Looking for one LONG and 5 short.
MSI is the motherboard manufacturer, not the BIOS manufacturer.
Beep Codes
bios is award but i thought it would depend on the MB for this machinesorry, just checking i got that correct. Thought it was award but COULD be wrong-its not mine so will get back to confirm

Lots of ink cartridges are available in markets......which type of ink cartridges shut es for printers???UMM... well... i'm interpreting your question as, "what type of ink cartridges should we USE for printers?"

I see that others of higher standing than me have (sometimes seemingly rudely) went on with the "We don't do HOMEWORK here." talk... so...

Anyways, printers are configured to use a specific model of ink cartridge, developed by the manufacturers of the printer so the printer can monitor ink levels and CONTROL ink density. That means you'll have to find a UNIQUE ink cartridge for your printer.

OK, not for me but a friend, so hope someone can HELP. This is what she says-

Since installing our wireless Lexmark printer on my Laptop (on Vista), every time I switch it on it gets a headache and won't open anything until eventually it brings up this message -

A program can't display a message on your desktop
This program may need information or permission to complete a task

When I click show me the message it brings up this error -

Visual C++ Runtime Library
Runtime Error!
Programs C:\windows\system32\spoolsv.exe
This application has requested the runtime to terminate in an unusual way, please contact the applications support team for assistance.

Once I click ok another message appears saying the spooler SubSystem App has stopped working. After that normal service resumes and the computer, including the printer, work FINE.
I've checked under 'turn windows FEATURES on and off' - print services, that LPD and LPR are ticked and the internet printing client isn't, as one site said this fixed it. I've tried removing and reinstalling the printer and drivers, but the error comes back when I REINSTALL it.

So, any IDEAS?
Thanks

Hi, i have recently decided to build a PC capable of gaming and stuff like that. but, i am currently having trouble sorting out the following issues:

- None of the stuff on the front of the case light up or do anything even though i have FOLLOWED the case wiring diagram
- The PSU fan wont spin even though every other fan on the motherboard will
- when i connect a hard drive to a PSU it spins but as soon as i connect it to the motherboard via IDE, it does not want to spin anymore
- When i connect the motherboard to my monitor via VGA, nothing happens

Computer Specs:

Motherboard = Asrock M3A790GXH/128M
Ram = 4GB DDR3
PSU = Storm 900w
Processor = AMD Athlon II X4 620 - QUAD CORE 2.8GHZ
Case = Tsunami Gaming Manager Case

An answer to any of these questions would be much appreciated
Many ThanksDo you have another psu that you can use to test?Hi, THANKS for the suggestion. I tried it with another PSU but still nothing happens.
Many Thanksseems like you haven't CONNECTED the 12V molex power connector to the motherboard-or is it the large, rectangular one? correct me if i'm wrong.

hello.
i am currently doing some study on p.c repair.
I am trying to FIND out what PATTERN testing is/does on hard drives.
i have had a LOOK on loads of web sites ,but cannot get anything definitive.
i know its not a POST about having a computer problem. i was unsure were to post it.
Thanks
ajb.