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I have recently had to install WINDOWS in 2 DIFFERENT computers. They were new HD. I installed Windows XP with service pack 2. Both times, different computers, the audio you plug into on the motherboard wouldn't work. I have reinstalled the driver on both and still no sound. I have had to use a separate sound card. I don't remember having this problems on previous installs.
Any advice or help WOULD be greatly appreciated!!
Thank you!Look in device manager. Any yellow or red symbols?Yes, but I don't have the original disc for the computer. I was reading some older posts and one of them was talking about the chipset drivers. It has been the same with both installs, the audio, video, ethernet slots now have question marks on device manager. Do I NEED to get the motherboard manufacturer and download the drivers?Yes, either the mobo manufacturer or the computer manufacturerIt didn't work . I have reinstalled the chipset driver and the audio driver. Still nothing. I am out of ideas.Same question - any errors in device manager?The only error in device manager is for the "unknown device" Vista was installed on the computer today and then the acl888 driver and it still doesn't have audio. The computer is up at my mothers house so I can't check right now but I believe the message today when we tried to run a music cd was something like...No audio drivers installed or No audio device... Is it possible that the sound card on the mobo has died? Is it also possible I am not installing the drivers right? It is possible that you have the wrong drivers. What are the SPECS of your computer? Make and model...etc...

If you don't know what they are you can download this program....

http://majorgeeks.com/download4181.html

Open it, click Computer, then Summary.
In upper menu, go Report>Quick Report-Summary
Save it in text file, and paste it in your next post.
Don't include anything under line Debug - PCI

Quote from: nicks mom on July 20, 2011, 09:52:31 PM

...the acl888 driver...

I have a sata 3 hard drive and in my BIOS wen I go into my sata option you can set everythig.

then it gets downn to the 32 BIT option and you can have it enabled or disabled.

Now I think I know that when you had IDE hard drives you set it to 32 Bit because the drives talked in 32 BIT.

But does SATA 3 hard drive talk in 32 Bit or 64 Bit???WELL it depends on your mother BOARD and CPU are they 32 bit or 64 bit you need to find that out.I believe that SETTING is for IDE hard drives so no need to worry about it

MatMy motherboard is an ECS

Model
A780GM A

Serial Number
K61110E83803609
My CPU is AMD Athalone 64

How do I know if my Motherboard is 64 Bit??
I doubt that board supports either SATA3 and or 64Bit,Has SATA 3 even been released as a manufactured product for retail consumption yet?

I think the standard was just set up this summer wasn't it?Yes the SATA drives are SATA 3 and my CPU is AM2 SocetThe SATA 3 standard was approved in late May but I don't see a lot of SATA 3 drives on the market.According to This Article from a pretty reputable site SATA3 won't start showing up on MBoards til early next year....He probably means SATA 3-Gbit/sec, not VERSION 3 of the standard.

Hi all,

First of all hi everyone. This is my first post and it will be a long one (sorry, but thank you for reading to the end).

I'm quite desperate. I have very sensitive and pretty crap eyes (-8.00 if that rings a bell) and I get migraines at work EVERY SINGLE DAY because of the computer screens.

It first started a year or 2 ago; both at work as well as at home on all screens I used. Nothing can be done about it they told me - so I just had to bear it.
However a few months ago my SONY Vaio laptop died (after only 2 years - and completely just died one day - anyhow that's a different story). So I went and got a new Acer laptop.

You can imagine how surprised I was when I noticed after a while that I didn't seem to get migraines from that particular screen. I've been testing it since (used it on for hours on end during the weekend, both on dark and sunny days) and nope - no migraines!

I advised my HR manager of this (as it's really affecting my health - I go home and have to go lie in a dark chamber every day for an hour or 2, or spend the evening in pain). He said well great so we got our IT guy involved. However he can't find an equivalent of the screen as a stand alone monitor. I can request for them just to buy the same laptop as I have at home, but it's not the most comfortable to work from a laptop every day for 8 hours, nor do I want them to have to spend that amount of money.

So, my laptop is an Acer Aspire AS7741G-354G32Mnkk (7741G Series - model no. MS2309)
Screen's a HD Acer CineCrystal™ LED LCD

I already called Acer and they told me they don't do that screen as a monitor.

Is there ANY make that does an equivalent of this screen as a stand alone monitor?

One of the issues of being able to find a similar screen seems to be that every singe make has given that type of screen a different name.

I am really really desperate

Thank you!
HeleenLaptops have LCD screens. That's the first thing you need to know. They work by shining light through the screen from behind, and there is a component called a "backlight" that does this. Earlier LCD screens used a thing called a "cold cathode lamp" or a number of them. These are a bit like fluorescent tubes in the way they work and some people can find the light they produce a bit flickery and glaring. More recent LCD screens, both on portable computers and desktop monitors (and TVs) use a different kind of backlight - multiple LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes). These give a different, more steady light and this may be why you find the LED screen in your Acer laptop better to work with.

My wife gets migraines from flickering and flashing lights. Just recently our main (cold cathode backlight) LCD monitor failed and we got a new LED backlight model. We both find it so much more pleasant to work with.

So I suggest you look at LED monitors. It seems that Acer's "CineCrystal" term is marketing-speak for "glossy". So that's another thing to consider. Also bear in mind all monitors of whatever type can be adjusted for brightness and contrast and if you don't set them up for your own preferences it won't be surprising if you get a headache. In my experience most monitors are left on the as-delivered settings which are usually very vibrant and contrasty and I always have to adjust them.

This is the one we got

Hanns.G HL231

http://www.pcpro.co.uk/reviews/monitors/363817/hanns-g-hl231

Quote

Despite stiff competition in the budget arena, Hanns.G's HL231 can hold its head high. If you really can't stretch to the EXTRA outlay of Viewsonic's superlative VP2365wb, the HL231 guarantees good image quality at a very low price.

usually problems of eye strain are a result of a "flicker" issue and that is not a possibility with LCD monitors.

My current Motherboard is a Gigabyte GA-8IR533 http://miburl.com/WP6RVWC. It has an expansion SLOT of: "1 x AGP 4X, SUPPORTS 1.5V display card only" If I buy a Nvidia Geforce6 6800, will it work with the current motherboard?

I am running:
OS: XP
RAM: 512 MB
Processor: Intel Pentium 4 CPU 1.80 Ghz
Current Graphics card: Geforce4 440MX

There are 2 different voltages for the older AGP style...as long as this is correct you should be good to go...Thanks Patio!

Is there a good store or online store where I can get 2 Gb DDR RAM sticks?


Mobo: * 3 x 184-pin DDR DIMMs
* Supports up to 2GB of DDR 200/266 memory

I'm a bit confused w/ the RAM...I recommend Crucial, they even have a scanner to determine the best RAM for your system.Ya I checked there, but man, DDR is really old, I thought it would be cheaper... but if that's the price then...Older RAM usually is more expensive as it no longer has the broad customer base to keep the price down. They have to cover the manufacturing costs somehow.I might just end up buying this: http://ncane.com/lgcb

and the 1 gb from here

http://ncane.com/zltb

I can buy the two sticks of the 512 mb from the first link and then the 1 Gb from the second site. If this works out, all 3 of the RAM slots will be used.

I currently am using two sticks of 256 MB RAM.You better MAKE sure your MBoard will handle 1G stiks before you go spending good money...Sweet, the RAMs worked out GREAT, thanks for the warning though!Now I just need to find a good deal on the Nvidia Geforce 6800 AGP 4.x. Any good places to buy from?

or, if you know another video card that is decent for my motherboard? I can do the price search on my own for it. Just need names! not that pro with specs.newegg...QUOTE from: Tranc3r on November 08, 2009, 05:38:59 PM

Sweet, the RAMs worked out great, thanks for the warning though!

One of my usb flash drives Kingston 8GB is being detected as cd/dvd rom drive when i plugged in. The icon shows the remaining space available but when i click the icon, it asks me to insert disk, i could not explore the files, i could not access anymore. I checked the properties and it shows unknown file system.
I REMEMBER a month ago that i have plugged it into my friends laptop which is running on Vista Home (im running XP Home) to copy some files but it SAYS "disk not formatted, format now, Yes or No?" of course i clicked no because i have files saved already. It appeared thrice and i kept on clicking no until the computer reinstalls another device driver which i thought normal and to my surprise it became an empty disk drive when i tried to click again the icon. I tried plugging it into another computer but still does the same. i tried rolling back the driver but nada. I tried using flash disinfector and anti virus but still doesn't work. i cannot reformat it either because it asks me to insert disk and the file is inaccessible. i could not return the product to the store because i bought it abroad and i already discarded the invoice . Gives me a headache really.
Is this a virus or something? It strange because all of my flash drive is working very well and i'm afraid someday it would happen to all of them for the reason i don't know. . anyone please help. This drive has PROBABLY just become corrupted. you'll need to reformat it. Try to connect another computer which having another oprating system just like vista or linuxRun the chkdsk /f COMMAND on your usb drive.
If not possible or drive not found then it may be of corrupted file system on your drive so try this command
convert drive letter: /fs:fat32

Was this from eBay ? ?

im highly considering gutting my computer and updating to the latest motherboard, processor, graphics..

anyway here are my major questions:

1. which is better for gamming AMD or INTEL cpus?
2. I current use a nvida gforce 8400 gt.. and love it however im wondering who has the best gamming graphics card?
3. for gamming PURPOSES which brand of MOTHER board would you think is the best ( im aware that it depends on your cpu and vise virsus im just curious it gives me a PLACE to start)

any help/comments are appreciated thanks.Intel
nVidia
ASUS


Just my opinion THOUGH...OTHERS i'm sure will chime in...

Best of Luck on the new build.AMD CPU
nVidia Graphics
ASUS AM3 Motherboard with DDR3

This is my preference1. AMD
2. AMD
3. Asus or MSI

AMD Phenom, dual core gives the best bang for the buck. Intel is waay too expensive for gaming purposes-it has far worse overclocking capability also.
nVidia. GeForce GTX/GTS series.
MSI AM3/AM3+ motherboard, AMD 870 chipset.
http://www.msi.com/product/mb/#/?sk=Socket%20AM3
Gigabyte seems like a rip-off.thanks so i guess its all preference and what you like/are comfortable with.

personaly im thinking about

this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130235
with this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103808

or just buying this combo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.675164

current graphics card on hand is the pny nvida 8400 gt this will get me by a few more years i think.. but i need to upgrade motherboard and cpu like yestarday.
Quote from: thiemeje on July 18, 2011, 07:09:37 PM

thanks so i guess its all preference and what you like/are comfortable with.

AMD Phenom, dual core gives the best bang for the buck. Intel is waay too expensive for gaming purposes-it has far worse overclocking capability also.

Your AMD data is old and outdated...this certainly used to be true...but no more.

My mouse, which worked fine until recently, stopped working on certain links. On some pages it's fine. On most I must copy and paste IF the complete address is there. Anyone familiar with this? How can I fix it?This doesnt sound LIKE it's an issue with your mouse. Try reinstalling your browser, or trying a different browser. a mouse doesnt know what it's clicking on, so it won't stop working on certain links due to a hardware issue.On a hunch, make sure your java RUN TIME is OK.And try a different browser to SEE if it works any BETTER.

Hi, my name is Sean and my laptop has been having some troubling issues the last few weeks. Before I explain the problem, I'll give you the specs of my laptop. It is a Compaq Presario CQ61, with 3GB of RAM, 250GB HDD, 2.10GHz PROCESSOR, and runs Windows 7 Home Premium.

I'm going to give a lot of details so that it's easier for you guys to understand the issue
Ok so here's the problem. It all started a few months ago when I NOTICED while using my laptop one day that when I plugged it into the charger, the charging symbol that would normally show up on the battery symbol did not show up. It still charged normally, but I thought it was odd. Later that week, my laptop stopped charging as fast as it used to. I would plug it in and it would take twice as long to charge to full power than it normally would. Sometimes it wouldn't even charge at all, it would just stay at it's current power level. That didn't make much of a difference to me, so skip forward a few months.
About a week ago, I was using my laptop to listen to some music and suddenly without warning, it shut down. It shut down in a manner as if I had pulled the battery out. When i tried to turn it back on, the battery symbol flashed 3 times and turned on and worked like normal for the next couple of days.
3 days ago, the same thing happened again, but when I tried to turn it back on, I got a BSOD. Once the BSOD DISAPPEARED off the screen, it continued to START up and worked like normal again.
Last night, it shut down randomly again, and I got another BSOD. The difference this time is that after the BSOD disappeared off the screen, my laptop shut down while starting up. This happened 3 times (BSOD followed by a shutdown) until it FINALLY turned on. I got this message on the windows error reporting message box that showed up.
Problem signature:
Problem Event Name:BlueScreen
OS Version:6.1.7600.2.0.0.768.3
Locale ID:1033

Additional information about the problem:
BCCode:c000021a
BCP1:FFFFF8A0061FA0F0
BCP2:0000000000000000
BCP3:FFFFFFFFC0000001
BCP4:0000000000100858
OS Version:6_1_7600
Service Pack:0_0
Product:768_1

Files that help describe the problem:
C:\Windows\Minidump\072311-23290-01.dmp
C:\Users\Sean\AppData\Local\Temp\WER-83912-0.sysdata.xml

Read our privacy statement online:
http://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?linkid=104288&clcid=0x0409

If the online privacy statement is not available, please read our privacy statement offline:
C:\Windows\system32\en-US\erofflps.txt

If someone could make sense of the problem and the BSOD information, it would help. If there is anything else I can add to the problem to help feel free to tell me Run this & post results here. http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.htmlI have never used that program before, so I hope I did this right
==================================================
Dump File : 072311-23290-01.dmp
Crash Time : 7/23/2011 1:16:35 AM
Bug Check String :
Bug Check Code : 0xc000021a
Parameter 1 : fffff8a0`061fa0f0
Parameter 2 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3 : ffffffff`c0000001
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00100858
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+70740
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 6.1.7600.16695 (win7_gdr.101026-1503)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+70740
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\072311-23290-01.dmp
Processors Count : 2
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7600
Dump File Size : 274,512
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 072011-28891-01.dmp
Crash Time : 7/20/2011 2:25:13 PM
Bug Check String :
Bug Check Code : 0xc000021a
Parameter 1 : fffff8a0`0072a5c0
Parameter 2 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3 : ffffffff`c0000001
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00100858
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+70740
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 6.1.7600.16695 (win7_gdr.101026-1503)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+70740
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\072011-28891-01.dmp
Processors Count : 2
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7600
Dump File Size : 274,512
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File : 071911-35958-01.dmp
Crash Time : 7/19/2011 12:14:47 AM
Bug Check String :
Bug Check Code : 0xc000021a
Parameter 1 : fffff8a0`01dbd610
Parameter 2 : 00000000`00000000
Parameter 3 : ffffffff`c0000001
Parameter 4 : 00000000`00100858
Caused By Driver : ntoskrnl.exe
Caused By Address : ntoskrnl.exe+70740
File Description : NT Kernel & System
Product Name : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company : Microsoft Corporation
File Version : 6.1.7600.16695 (win7_gdr.101026-1503)
Processor : x64
Crash Address : ntoskrnl.exe+70740
Stack Address 1 :
Stack Address 2 :
Stack Address 3 :
Computer Name :
Full Path : C:\Windows\Minidump\071911-35958-01.dmp
Processors Count : 2
Major Version : 15
Minor Version : 7600
Dump File Size : 275,880
==================================================

What happens when you run it with the battery removed and the AC adapter plugged in?

When was the last time you blew the dust out with a can of compressed air?I have tried running the laptop without the battery and only the AC adapter, and got no power at all.

To be honest, I don't think I've ever BLOWN the dust out of the inside of the laptop. I've had it for a little over a year, and about 6 months ago I had to have it fixed for an unrelated issue and they said they blew out the dust for me. Is there a specific way to do this without harming it?Try this Microsoft Support http://support.microsoft.com/kb/156669

Why am i lagging so hard?

EVERYTIME i play a game with any team speak program(ventrillo, teamspeak, steam), i LAG.
It's still ok if i don't have any team speak program turned on.

How do you FIX this lag?
Im getting like 10-15 FPS everytime.. -_-


Do you need my computer info?
I will try to reply ASAP -_-
I can't take this anymore lolI use a speech program on a regular basis. When not using it, I have to close it down. Big overhead.You may want to check the speed of your INTERNET connection...

SEE Here...

My computer has been starting by itself recently. When it does restart, I see this sentence at the beginning for a few seconds that says...

Secondary IDE cable... -blahblahblah- (I forgot the rest. It goes away too fast for me to see ><) It said like not installed or something.

I think I accidentally dislodge something in my big black box thingie that's connected to my computer screen. Because I play fetch with my dog and sometimes he would run into the black box thing. I moved the black box thing away so the dog won't run into it but does this mean I have to open up my black box thing and reconnect this cable thing? Or is this another problem?

Thank you. Quote from: Pleanie on November 08, 2009, 03:40:32 PM

...does this mean I have to open up my black box thing and reconnect this cable thing? ...

well i have two hadrdisk in my computer one is a sata(80 GB) and the other is IDE(40GB).
My computer is not able to detect my sata hard drive. i have replaced my jumper cable too but its still not working.please help What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?SATA HDD's don't jse jumpers...so which cable have you replaced and why ? ?
It may also be helpful to let US know what happened prior to this...are they both set as MASTER? do you have one set for slave? this may cause the problem i would set the one you have on the ribbon cable to slave and put your O.S. on on Sata and see how that works..

also unplug one turn it on.. see if it works, then unplug it and try the other one, one of them may be fried,virus,corrupt

hope this helps.They don't have jumpers...
Master and slave capacities are determined by MBoard slot assignments...maybe true but IDE HD's do.. also check bios and see which one is being read and which one isnt.. there you can see which one is bad,and or not being read. remove the good one (the one being read) and see if the other one will show you anything..Irrelevant...
Unless the jumpers were changed on the IDE it was working and now it's not...
The SATA drive was the only drive that was messed with ACCORDING to the info given...so that would be the logical place to start troubleshooting.so true, i was incorrect.guys my slave is connected with my sata and my master is connected with a dvd drive while my ide is connected with a red wire which is connected with sata port 1 . well now i have loaded my OS in my sata but now my ide is not working Quote from: shaurya21 on July 24, 2011, 09:07:33 AM

guys my slave is connected with my sata and my master is connected with a dvd drive while my ide is connected with a red wire which is connected with sata port 1 .

Is it possible for a DVD drive to be a slave?

i have about Rs.45000 (around 900$). i WANT to BUY a LAPTOP which can play games like crisis 2 and would also be HELPFUL during my engineering as i have to do a lot of programing.Hmm... there are very few laptops under $1000 that will be able to play fps's at medium-high settings with reasonable FPS; for gaming you are always better off with a desktop.
Maybe these laptops might suit your needs.


Sager 7680
Asus G60JX[/font]
Acer Aspire AS6920-6441Quote from: Transfusion on July 25, 2011, 04:47:40 AM

Hmm... there are very few laptops under $1000 that will be able to play modern fps's at medium-high settings with reasonable FPS

I noticed a couple of months ago that my laptop webcam was TUNING on by itself every once in a while

At first, my laptop was new so I didn't know that the blue light meant the webcam was on. It is just when I heard about webcam hackers that had been arrested that I noticed I might have been filmed against my will.

Here are my questions:

1- Is everything filmed by my webcam automatically saved on my computer? If so, where would it be saved? I search but I don't find anything...

2- If I find some videos that should not have been made, is there anything I can do? Like identify the hackers and deliver them to AUTHORITIES..?

Any kind of info would help.

Thanks in advance,

Mi
Just to take care of the easy stuff first, does your laptop have a button on or near the keyboard that turns the webcam on or off? You could be hitting that key accidentally.This is what my friend does for his laptop's built in webcam, when he isn't using it, he just covers the lens with a black piece of construction paper, just don't try to make the paper have contact with the lens though.It's easier to just make sure that there is nothing malicious using it.

Mi7, if you suspect that you may be infected with something then go here, follow the directions exactly and post a NEW TOPIC in that forum.In ORDER to "hack" a webcam they would NEED COMPLETE control of your machine/system...
There would be other evidence of this manifesting itself...

Red Herring.Orange TunaBlue Whale.

Oh wait, that one's real.

Hello, I have a Laptop which can get really hot when playing games like Call of Duty : Modern Warfare 2 and other "big" games. The fans are working for 100% and even more when I'm in-game. I also have a cooler pad with two fans that are working but I doesn't seem to cool the computer when I'm playing games, atleast it doesn't make any difference. Also, when the computer gets to that high temperature my FPS in-game drops to about 40 and before that I had about 90. In some cases it can drop to 20- I play on the LOWEST graphic settings and I have already updated ALL my important drivers. (Processor, Graphic memory card, Sound, etc)I've also changed the power consumption to "High Performance" but no difference. I've tried to download SpeedFan and change the speed of the fans but it cant read my fans. The SpeedFan can atleast read my hardwares temperature and those are at 80 C when in-game. Are there anything more I can do?

Here's my system specs and other information.

Acer Aspire 5741G
Windows 7 Ultimate

Inte Core i5-450M processor (2.4GHz, 3MB L3 cache)
NVIDIA GeForce GT 320M (Up to 2747 MB turbo cache)
4GB DDR3 RAM Memory
500 GB HDD (203 GB Free) (I also have one externa HDD with the capacity of 2TB)
15.6" HD LED LCD

As I told you earlier, I have an cooler pad which were pretty expensive so I expect it to be good.
Sorry for my bad english I'm from Sweden...
Thanks in Advance!Never heard of a gaming laptop. If you are a heavy gamer, I WOULD suggest investing on a desktop that will compliment the hardware to SOFTWARE requirements and setup for any kind of games. But wait for opinions from other CH members. Alienware... is a gaming laptop manufacturer.
The FPS drops because the CPU is being underclocked to avoid heat damage.
Laptops are not designed for gaming in general-however, if you cleared the fan and heatsink of dust it would make a difference-I had a HP Probook 4510s that I used for playing GTA4-It rose up to 90C because the fan intake vent was clogged with dust. After cleaning, the temperatures on load were around 60C. Laptop fans are small...Quote from: Transfusion on July 25, 2011, 01:19:25 AM

Alienware... is a gaming laptop manufacturer.

Quote from: Geek-9pm on July 23, 2011, 02:21:16 PM

Do you not know?

Well, I'd call it being obstinate, but others might be less kind...

adjective /ˈäbstənit/ 
Stubbornly refusing to change one's opinion or chosen course of action, despite attempts to persuade one to do so
(of an unwelcome phenomenon or situation) Very difficult to change or overcome
- the obstinate problem of unemployment

I was wondering if a modified inkjet printers are more practical and cost saver? Most Internet Cafes here in our place who have printing job services use this kind.

You have not, despite repeated hints, stated what printing jobs, other than printing on paper, you have in mind for a printer.

Umbra was the OP, not Jason2074.

Here's a nice one for you all to think about..

I reinstalled Windows XP Home edition.. When it was time to enter the license key, the "U" "I" and "O" keys would not work so I could not activate Windows. I restarted the computer THINKING maybe the keyboard driver didn't load right, but no go. Reseated the keyboard connector, no go...I switched keyboards, but also, no luck.

Next I thought maybe the hard drive was going bad so I installed XP onto ANOTHER hard drive....no luck, same deal.. Next I pulled out the CMOS battery for a little while, put it back in booted up, same deal, no luck. Reseated the ram, no luck. Changed power supplies, no luck.

Next I put in the Knoppix 5.0 Live CD and booted off of it, which I'm using at this moment, and guess what... The "U" "I" and "O" keys work...

I'm in a tail spin over this one... Any ideas?


The only thing I can think of is that maybe I screwed up the motherboard somehow when I plugged the 20-pin Main PSU connector into the motherboard while the power supply was plugged in... wasn't thinking...( I'm tired But when I plugged it in I heard the sound of sparks...You know,like the sound you here when you PLUG something into an A/C receptable and you get sparks? Maybe there was a static charge somewhere that grounded through the board.....don't know


If the board was damaged the letters would not work in Linux either...
Get a brand new PS2 keyboard for about 12 Bucks.Except that he says he tried a different keyboard I didn't see PS2 mentioned so i suggested it...EVERYONE should own one...even if it sits in the closet.
Good for emergencies.Didn't catch the ps2 reference. GotchaAll he said was "...Reseated the keyboard connector...", so I assumed he meant PS2.
Try a USB keyboard.Sorry, both keyboards I tried are PS/2s..

I'll get a USB keyboard when I get a chance... Don't have a spare one at the moment..

thx

Instead of buying a USB keyboard I bought a PS/2 to USB adapter and hooked up one of my PS/2 keyboards through a USB port.. The problem still remains

Is it possible that the keyboard driver is corrupt?Hmmm... Missing vowels... Reminds me of the time they tried to ban the "DeLorean" from the state's highways... Claimed the white lines were disappearing...

Perhaps Microsoft doesn't accept "IOU" in their product keys...

Is there a separate section for the numeric keypad on the keyboard, or is it overlaid on the main keys?Incredible.. You are correct about those three keys. My product key doesn't use any of those keys.


Apparently I wrote down the product key incorrectly. When ever I do an installation, I write the product key down on a piece of paper so I don't have to look around to the back of the computer while activating Windows.

Anyway, I took another look on back of the computer and realized I wrote the product key down incorrectly and typed in the correct key just now, so my system is back online.


All I can really say is doh!!

lesson learned

thx

Quote from: Quantos on November 08, 2009, 08:24:34 AM

I love giving someone good ADVICE only to get laughed at

I'm gonna go make more coffee and chalk it up to a mistake.

Harry just so you know...the front header leads are pretty light and could easily have been blasted off with compressed air...i know cause i've done it myself.

I have a screen LCD 22. APPEARS on one of the parties. A BLACK spot. During operation. 1 cm * 1 cm as if burned. What is the reasonSounds like your monitors dieing. There was an error translation. I mean spot on one side of the screenWhat application does this occur with?

I've noticed a COUPLE of games that will do this to my LCD while they load and adjust the resolution.

Does this only occur while the application is loading or does it STAY on the display after the application has loaded?Quote from: zf490 on November 07, 2009, 12:31:22 PM

There was an error translation. I mean spot on one side of the screen

i moved to a new place and sit up my computer and it works fine. after a few days i reformat like i do from time to time, to keep it working like new, but then i realized something is wrong. maybe i should have realized when aim and my gmail app wasn't working but i just breezed them off since the computer was working like it should. after the reformat i do the windows activation thing and it cant connect then i think no big deal just bypass it when the 30 days are up, be batter then a password because no one i living with can do that. then i go to sync google chrome web browser but it keeps SAYING error. so i think maybe they are linked so i go throw a hole lot of check ups and find my chip set drivers are not working properly so i re install and try windows activation and google again but same thing. so then i open the computer and notice the heat sink is off and one of the clips is off so i push it in a bit, its a loose fit and reattach the heat sink and try again. but nothing so i open it again and look some more cant find any thing wrong but the heat sink. i even try putting one on from a different computer still nothing. so after hours of looking cant find any answers so i asked for help. i can take pics of the inside of the computer if needed. i don't SEE why a heat sink alone would do any thing but make your computer shut off to much. sorry if in wrong spot but wasn't sure where put this was thinking since its a xp computer maybe this would be it not much of a forumer. I'm sorry but your post is unintelligible.

Please use punctuation and tell us what the problem is. Thank you.i don't know what the problem is to be correct. but i do know 1. i reformatted , 2. cant run windows activation 3. cant sync google chrome 4. some small issues like graphical glitches.

and the only thing i can see is not right on the inside is that one of the 2 clips is not attached to the motherboard holding the heat sink is off and the heat sink is off.

and both thous where off when i reformatted.Sounds like there may be a lot of problems. Heatsinks don't just "fall off", unless it was not attached properly, and if it was badly attached the processor could overheat and shut down the computer. Possibly the PC was badly assembled or has been dropped or otherwise damaged when you moved. In this case there may be other damaged items such as the hard drive or loose RAM. This is a desktop or a laptop?

desktop.
don't know if was dropped or not. i going try putting in a blank hard drive later today and installing windows. as soon as i can well i am at it i will check again for loose parts.
a computer should be able run with out a heat sink just get to hot and CUT off, or at lest i think it would?Quote from: heat sinker on July 24, 2011, 08:56:06 AM

a computer should be able run with out a heat sink just get to hot and cut off, or at lest i think it would?

i moved to a new place and sit up my computer and it works fine. after a few days i reformat like i do from time to time, to keep it working like new, but then i realized something is wrong.

i made a new oem

I have an HP laptop (dv3-1075us, out of warranty) that won't boot, and I'm looking for ideas/education before calling/paying for HP support somehow.

I've gone to the HP users forum and got limited pointers.

When turning on, two LED lights on the KEYBOARD flash: Num Lock and CAPS Lock. They seem to flash twice almost together, then the main screen flashes (it's trying to boot, but then fails), then these keep repeating over and over.

I was pointed to an HP LIST of what the flashing LED lights mean, but I'm not sure how to use that given what I see. It SAYS 2 flashes of cap/num lock means something's wrong with the BIOS. But it implies I should see these two flashes, then everything stops. Or I misunderstand, so I'm not sure it's the BIOS.

Any help in interpreting what I see?

If it is the BIOS, any suggestions on next steps? Places (in the SF Bay Area) to take this?

Suggestions on where to take this for a straightforward (and inexpensive) diagnostic/troubleshoot to at least confirm what the problem is?

Stuff was backed up and I have a different computer to use temporarily, so I can approach this in a non-emergency mode.

Thanks for any ideas/help/etc.

finAre there any messages/errors shown on the screen? Try removing the HD and make sure its firmly seated on contacts/connector. Look for the manual describing on how to open HD from casing. Was there any previous issues that could have lead to this?The dv2,3,4 series had an issue with the Graphics chip on the board where the soldering would become brittle and break away from the board. Usually this can be fixed by a very expensive reflowing JOB, but is not 100% guarranteed to work. Otherwise it is usually a MOTHERBOARD replacement, for which cost you could almost buy another laptop.

Can one take a mouse from a Dell 1100 laptop and hook it up so works with a desktop computer with EITHER serial or usb which ever would be easier and if so which wire connects to which?

Johnas long as they have similar port for mouse.. YES. *if im not mistaken*You can use any usb or ps2 mouse with any system. What do you mean "which wire connects to which"? Just plug it in to any available, compatible port.No I mean phisicaly remove or cut the mouse out of laptop then connect to either serial or usb ports.

JohnQuote from: John1397 on November 06, 2009, 07:07:58 AM

No I mean phisicaly remove or cut the mouse out of laptop then connect to either serial or usb ports.

John

You can use any usb or ps2 mouse with any system. What do you mean "which wire connects to which"? Just plug it in to any available, compatible port.

Yes I guess it would be the touch pad if that is what you call it. Seems like if you take it out of laptop should have a bunch of wires and one should be able to connect to serial cable and use it on a desktop computer unless it just won't work that way.

Yes I guess it would be the touch pad if that is what you call it. Seems like if you take it out of laptop should have a bunch of wires and one should be able to connect to serial cable and use it on a desktop computer unless it just won't work that way.

John

i've got a problem with this HP nx 6110, that it turns on WITHOUT at all touching the power button. and in a few seconds tries to restart. there is no display at all.
I suspected a battery problem, so i removed the battery.
I've subsequently opened the laptop completely, and step by step removed each component. now i'm left with just the motherboard with the processor (no CMOS battery either), to which the power cable is connected. but still it's just the same old problem.

i turn the switch on. the AC main light turns on, then in a few second, the other light tuns on, and the fan starts spinning, after a few seconds, all the lights go off, the fan appears to be stopping, but before it completely STOPS spinning, the whole process repeats, starting from the AC light turning on.

i suspect the motherboard, but somehow i'm SURE there is something that can be done.

any ideas welcomed.Is this laptop still under warranty?No, it's around 4 years old.I suspect that there is a motherboard failure, but don't run out and replace it just yet. I'm not fully awake(only third cup of coffee), someone else may have an idea.Unfortunately laptops are not meant to be user serviceable...
I'd get a quote from an Authorised service center.

I have a laptop with a wireless card build in, and it has a SWITCH in the front of it, with a colour either red, or blue, for the wireless being off or on respectively.

One day, it randomly went red no matter which direction the switch is in. On top of that, the wireless card is not shown in the hardware what so ever. I checked in the bios, and no SETTING there has to do with the card being on or off

Another weird thing is, in the device manager, it says my coprocessor has no DRIVERS. I can't IMAGINE this is true, or my computer wouldn't really be able to run

Is it possible my computer is MISTAKING my wireless card for a coprocessor, and if so, how can i fix it?

Its a Compaq presario v6000 and works with a wired connectionCan you try re-installing the driver for the wireless?

Hello,

I'm sorry for this double post but when I posted in the Windows section no one helped me. My problem is one of my HHD's disappeared. When I enter computer management it says, "DISK 1, import FAILED" and when I TRY to reactivate it nothing happens. The only options I am given are reactivate, convert to basic disk and properties. It is a dynamic disk that I can not loose the data on it. I have replaced the cables GOING to it so I know it's not them.

Last night I ran Seagate's SeaTools on both long and short TESTS and it passed both. I DL'ed FileScavenger (trial) to see if the disk can be read and found out it can.

Is there a way to reactivate the disk in Vista or is there another program I can use to get my data off it without reformatting or paying $50 for a full version of FileScavenger? Thanks.Why did you make it a Dynamic disk ? ?
Your best bet to retrieve the data if at all is to hook it up as a Slave drive on another machine but it being dynamic this may not even work...

http://www.dtidata.com/resourcecenter/2007/04/23/how-to-slave-hard-drive/Try this
http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/PhotoRec

Good luck!Just wanted to bump this old thread because it works perfectly as at 25/7/2011. Downloaded the program (for free), unzipped, followed the instructions and the partition on a 750gig hard drive was restored - no data lost. Thank you to the authors of this program, I just made a donation.

http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/PhotoRec

Ric
Mindfor Studios.

transfusion the 9600 is probably his onboard chip so THEREFORE it's not in use.


Josh re-set your memory SETTINGS to Windows managed...re-boot and test.Holy Cowz there are ONBOARD GT 9600s? *scours the entire internet* No... there do not SEEM to be any integrated GT 9600s...
The NVIDIA GeForce 9600 GT GPU powers the visual computing experience by offering immersive, extreme high-definition gaming and video.[/size]
integrated GPUs do not have fans... I think the extreme high-definition would immediately burn up the 9600 if it didn't have a fan.
How do I change my memory to windows managed?

Rightclick my Computer> properties> advanced system settings> advanced tab> performance> then, what?
I've just clicked adjust for best performance RATHER than best appearance?

To save throwing more messy stats on this, the bench mark I did on my PC monitor is no different, still 97% video memory usage.I imagine this is what I need to be altering, but what should I adjust min and max too.
http://www.pctips3000.com/how-to-increase-virtual-memory-in-windows-7/

Thanks everyone for your HELP.

currently im using

mobo= 945gct-m2
processor = e2180 dual core 2.0g
ram = 1gb ddr2
vcard = winfast px6600 td 256 which is BROKEN so im using my built in

planning to add another 1gb ram. but i dont KNOW what vcard should i buy,im choosing between the two DDR2 GEFORCE 9500Gt, GDDR3 GeForce 9600Gt will a video card that indicates ddr3 work with my mobo and ram?but im using a ddr2 ram. does that mean i should use the ddr2?

also im a hardcore gamer and an adobe CS4 products user,if u can give me an advice on the upgrades i should do,just post it here.but no budget for the upgrade of board and processor. DDR3 RAM on a VID card will work on that machine...has nothing to do with your onboard RAM.ok thanks, but can i ask what is the purpose of the ddr3 or ddr2 use to describe a video card??and what are the things i should consider or REMEMBER when buying video cards?ddr3RAM is newer and faster...employed on mostly newer vid cards.thanks for the reply and information.No problem...glad to assist.

My HD in my laptop went bad on me Friday afternoon - BSOD with "unrecoverable_error", chkdsk gets about halfway through, the works. Not quite certain what happened - had just cancelled a defrag, and had been deleting lots of stuff off of it (it had been performing really slowly for a while, so I was trying to clean it up); probably just a confluence of events that created a toxic environment. No big whoop. BUT:

I was going to mount it on another machine, pull off the data I needed (hadn't been backed up in a while - it was the machine that basically ran all the home backups, but there was still a few bits and bites to recover.

Then I was thinking I'd go ahead and REFORMAT it - but I wasn't certain if I could set it up as a bootable Windows disk while it was mounted on another machine. I mean, I'm certain it's possible - but I sure want to avoid screwing up the machine I'm on (particularly as I've got the original XP recovery disc, but the machine I'll be using is running 7).

I could always plug it back into the original laptop and reformat it, but I'm on the road for a few weeks. So I have the drive, but not the machine.

So, I guess the question is, is it possible to format an external drive and put a bootable XP OS on that drive?

ThanksWindows will not install /boot properly from an external HDD...MS designed it that way ...
Your best bet would be to mount your drive in an external enclosure and/or use a laptop to IDE converter on a working desktop machine...
Then retrieve whatever data you need...format it...then re-install it in the laptop and do a clean install of Windows...

Best of Luck...Sorry - once I'm done, I'll put the drive back IN the laptop so it becomes an INTERNAL drive...

But I'm doing the data extraction whilst on the road (with the drive mounted on an IDE CONNECTOR), and was thinking I'd just go ahead and format the THING at the same time.Thats what i'd do...sorry if my suggestion sounded otherwise...Quote from: rjbinney on July 25, 2011, 03:03:12 PM

Sorry - once I'm done, I'll put the drive back IN the laptop so it becomes an INTERNAL drive...

But I'm doing the data extraction whilst on the road (with the drive mounted on an IDE connector), and was thinking I'd just go ahead and format the thing at the same time.

My concern is that if I pop the XP CD into D, and tell it to (re)format A, I don't want anything untoward to happen to C.

Just wanted to confirm that I'll be OK.

1. Because when I put that drive BACK into its original laptop, it will be the boot drive.
2. My understanding is I must use the MS OEM disc to do that.
3. What I don't know is if I can do that when I (and the drive) are a couple of thousand miles away from the laptop it will eventually be (re)united with.

I know I'm being dense,

Windows will not install /boot properly from an external HDD...MS designed it that way ...
Your best bet would be to mount your drive in an external enclosure and/or use a laptop to IDE converter on a working desktop machine...
Then retrieve whatever data you need...format it...then re-install it in the laptop and do a clean install of Windows...

but everything in that article appears (to me) that all it does is prepare the drive for read/write operations.

I'm trying to put the OS on it, so it becomes the internal, bootable (and REbootable!) c:\ drive for another machine.

but I think I can justifiably accuse you of not having read thoroughly the replies so far in this thread.

1. Windows will only install on a fixed (internal) disk. This has to be in the machine for which the installation is intended.

You can't do this. This has now been explained twice. I'll say it once more. You can't do this.

Surely IT departments format bootable drives away from their ultimate home machines time and again?

Again, I would think there is a way to work around that

after all, we've all received replacement hard drives that already have an OS on them

once i turn on my COMPUTER, the first screen that appears tells me that "ZUSMR is compressed", press ctrl alt delete to reset....how do i get past this?I've never heard of that message or that FILE. You say you see that as soon as the system boots (before you see anything else)? Are you sure of the spelling?Yeah it comes up right after the Dell loading screen, also I can only press f2 and f12
Do you know what drives you have booted from recently? If you check your settings to see what drive you are booting from you know what drive is being accessed first.

Although, should you be able to access your physical boot settings before your operating system boots, you might be able find this information, like I have, it is important not to change anything or save anything unless you have a solution in mind by using those settings.

Those are settings that, at the very least, could keep you from booting your operating system. F2 or F12 (both labelled hopefully) - one may allow you to access settings - have been my only hope of looking into my computer's operation before I even start an operating system.Quote from: asdfEliasdf on July 24, 2011, 02:49:33 PM

Do you know what drives you have booted from recently? If you check your settings to see what drive you are booting from you know what drive is being accessed first.

Although, should you be able to access your physical boot settings before your operating system boots, you might be able find this information, like I have, it is important not to change anything or save anything unless you have a solution in mind by using those settings.

Those are settings that, at the very least, could keep you from booting your operating system. F2 or F12 (both labelled hopefully) - one may allow you to access settings - have been my only hope of looking into my computer's operation before I even start an operating system.

I have an old Windows 98 (4.10.98) PC, 128mb RAM, from which I want to extract date and PICTURES onto a memory stick for transfer to my Dell XP. The PC rejects every memory stick I TRY and there seems no way of getting the data out. Be grateful for someone's help on this. thanks. http://www.dtidata.com/resourcecenter/2007/04/23/how-to-slave-hard-drive/Win98 is very finicky about memory stick DRIVERS. Even then, some STICKS just fail to work on Win98, even with the proper drivers.

Hi all. I have a Gateway E4100 desktop running Windows XP. This is a single-core computer with four RAM slots on the motherboard to provide dual-channel memory. You're supposed to have identical paired DIMMs on both channels to let you run in dual-channel mode. I'm planning to use a pair of unbuffered sticks of 512 MB Crucial brand DDR in one channel and a pair of 512 MB DDR Corsair brand in the other channel, ALSO unbuffered. Does anyone know if performance would be enhanced by using the same brand in all four slots? Or decreased by using different brands? I thought since the pair in channel A would be identical and likewise the pair in channel B it should work fine, but I'd LIKE a second opinion. Thanks in advance.Quote from: comporanger on July 25, 2011, 04:15:50 PM

...You're supposed to have identical paired DIMMs on both channels to let you run in dual-channel mode....

No, the 2 pairs need not be identical. Therefore, both pairs need not be the same.
I have a computer with a pair of 1GB & a pair of 256MB. BTW, there is no setup or configuration for dual channel. It either works or doesn't, but you'll probably not notice the difference, either way.

...however the sticks have to be identical in size, and the sticks have to have a common timing...

Not all 4 sticks, only the individual pairs need be matched.

Hello all, I'd like to thank everyone in advance for any help they can give and for past posts that I have been following to help me solve this problem(s)

I will try to be brief but thourough=My computer died--after a week of trying to pin down the problem I have now ended up essentially building a new computer.

New mobo is the gigabyte EP45-UD3L (Have seen I am not alone in dealing with this boards quirks apparently)

New processor=Intel core duo 2 E82000 2.66 ghz l2 cache 1333mhz fsb 45nm

New power supply OCZ stealth stream 500 watt

Memory is (from old system) x2 Adata 1 gig each and 1 new adata 1 gig ddr2 240pin/667

Hard drive was WAS a samsung 300 gig--i suspect it is dead/dying/damaged so i am using a WD 1200 I had lating around--not new but appears to be working--yet cannot remember why I didnt have it in one of my systems.

Video card is a radeonx1900xt

After switching hard drives i was able to FINALLY install WIN XP (pro) and get the system up and running.
The problem now is random restarts but especially bad when trying to install any programs or updating windows/AVG antivirus. I was successful with installing the mobo programs that came on the disk--but some of them (not all) will crash my system when i try to start them up as well. When the system crashes and I finally get back onto windows it does give me errors BUT--There are usually 3 window error reports ATM and when i try to copy the first error and then switch to the second REPORT and CLOSE the FIRST report--the system crashes again.

I have succesfully flashed the bios to version 7 and used the motherboard software in windows to update all the programs listed EXCEPT for the Norton 30 day trial. I also should MENTION this XP version is service pack 2--I have been unsuccessful at windows updating to service pack 3...or any updates at all. At random times when I have tried to update windows--the update window opens and it begins to download--then the completion bar races across the window says "update complete" then changes to "Update has failed" and usually crashes.

If any additional info is needed I will be glad to post--I have tried many things from reading other posts here, but I am hoping I missed something along the way. I am not a beginner but I am no expert either--It would make my day for anyone to humble me and give any advice as to the next steps I should take--it's ok I have no pride
This is a great site with helpful info--please help me--I only have a little hair left as I have ripped the rest out over the past week!Drop the system RAM back to 2G and re-install any drivers/apps that are acting up...including SP3.Do you have 2 anti-virus installed? You mention AVG and Norton. I have avg installed but it will not update the database--Norton trial came on the disk but I HAVE NOT installed it, good question though hehe


The sp3 is NOT on my system as i cannot get windows to update, I know i have oredered service pack one and two on disks from microsoft in the past, I wonder if i can get service pack 3 on disk or maybe they arent doing that since the release of Vista/windows 7 soon.
I will try using just 2 mem chips and see if it stabilizes thank you everyone for the advice/tips anything will be appreciated, keep them coming please!SP3 CD's can be ordered from the Mothership...

Good Luck.Quote from: elitenoob on October 02, 2009, 10:19:43 AM

...Norton trial came on the disk but I HAVE NOT installed it...

Norton trial came on the disk but I HAVE NOT installed it, good question though hehe

I have an HP Pavilion a350n that I bought around 2003 or 2004, it worked great until about a year and a half ago when there was a blackout in my neighborhood, once the electricity came on the computer stopped turning on, after a few months I had decided to check if it still worked real quick, otherwise I would GET a new computer, I pressed the power button and it worked fine! A similar thing happened a few months ago, also because of a blackout, and it worked fine a month later. So that brings us to this, Yesterday my power went off, you can see where I'm going, the computer refused to turn on. Now I have semi important documents on there, probably a little stupid of me beings how untrustworthy it is, so I need to get on soon, not wait a month or two. Most likely you have already realized this, but all three times were the result of my electricity going off, I don't THINK there is anything wrong with the computers power supply though, I looked in the back and their is a little green light that blinks when it is plugged in, but the computer will just not turn on. If someone can help me that will be greatly appreciated, thank you.In Order to gain access to your document you could REMOVE the harddrive (the one with the document on it if you have more than one HDD) and temporarily attach it to another desktop computer as a slave drive. You do not need to physically install it in a drive bay. You can just connect it to the cable connections and then providing it is not damaged you should be able to access your CONTENTS. truenorth
P.S. Given the propensity for power losses in your location you might want to consider installing a backup power supply to your computer. Thank you, I can't believe I didn't think of that, I'll do that either tonight or tomorrow morning, again thanks.Your welcome and GOOD luck,truenorthI suspect the CMOS battery is weak or dead. 7-8 years for a CR-2032 is about maximum.I managed to salvage the file, so that is all good. Also I replaced the CMOS battery, and it still shows no sign of working, while it isn't to important if I can't get it to work, it would be nice if I could get it to work as soon as possible.Glad to see that you recovered your needed file. What i would do in your circumstances re the computer that is giving you this intermittent issue is i would remove all the hardware from the computer not essential to it running and see the difference at that stage (as to it's ability to boot). Then one at a time i would reintroduce the hardware to try and determine if one of the components is the cause. If you have more than one RAM module i would remove all but one (and replace that RAM module with the other(s) one at a time) before moving on to reintroduce the other hardware components. You might get lucky.truenorth
P.S. As i stated earlier a power backup unit for all the computers in your household should be a serious consideration. It seems it was the power supply that is damaged, I found the manual for it and saw that the blinking light denotes that something is not working, so I guess that I need to replace, while I am at it I will probably consider installing a backup unit as you have stated truenorth. Thank you for everyone's help.You are most welcome--i would just alter your process a little. I would try to borrow or use another power supply equal to or greater than that which you think is the culprit BEFORE i would buy a replacement. It may NOT be the only problem. truenorthGood solid advice Truenorth...

can anyone tell me if they use the ECS Motherboard
Model A780GM A
Serial Number K61110E83803609

I need some help with it???
What's your problem ?If you don't use this motherboard and bios I don't want to post yet.

Because it goes in deep and I don't want to take time out for someone to say they don't knowwow....Well like I say t goes in REALY deep and I don't want to take ANYONES time up.

But here it goes.

In my BIOS Hand Book for the motherboard it says wen setting the Shared Memory size.
If you are useing more then One GB of DRAM set the video Size to 256 MB so I did.

I F10 and save and exit and restart.
Now first things first I don't use DRAM I am useing two sticks of DDR2. DIMMs

Now the way I thought you can see how mutch Video Memory is being used was to go into Display then Preferace then settings then Advanced.
Then Adapers.

And it give you the specs on your Video.

ATI video type
Video Size 700 MB

sould this not say 256 MB what is going on.

My dog chewed up my AC battery adapter. I'm looking for a replacement. Will this one fit my dell inspiron 1526?

http://www.chargerbuy.com/dell-inspiron-1150-ac-adapter-90watt-19-5v.html
It's inspiron 1150 adapter, my husband just purchased two of those adapter a week ago

I know that the output voltage has to be the same. But what about the amps? I think it can be higher, but not lower. Is this correct? And what about the Watts? I believe they can be higher then the standard 65 Watts, but not lower?

Is it safe to use it on my computer, I don't want to risk it.

Yes, you are right. Same voltage. maybe more amps.
And a little more power is OK. Key item is voltage.
The INNER condor is positive.Most replacements come that way anyhow.

Buy the dog a toy. The adapter Amps FIGURE tells you how much current the power adapter is capable of supplying. The LAPTOP won't take any more than it needs. If the adapter Amps figure is less than the laptop needs then the adapter MAY well overheat after a while, but the laptop won't be damaged.

I would do a visual inspection of the motherboard. Look for any blown capacitors.

one drive of a two drive RAID 0 appears to not be READABLE. Windows XP Pro. System boots up all the way to desktop but hangs shortly thereafter. The system has been backed up recently with Windows Home Server. How do I get this thing running again?If you get all the way to the desktop, it maynot a bad RAID 0 drive. Is RAID giving you any errors?
However, TEST the drives independently with the drive manufacturer's software. You may have to disable RAID to perform this.
Why WOULD you have RAID 0 (striped) on a server? RAID 1 (mirrored) would be a better choice.It could be that the array is on the fritz and close to completely failing. I've had that happen before and I added another drive and converted it to raid 5. If your hardware supports LIVE conversion, give that a try. It might work.
What KIND of backup do you have?

Hello.. could anyone help me fix my sd card.. when i open my memory card only autorun.inf is there and it has size of 0 kb.. but when i try to right my sd memory and go to PROPERTIES it shows that it has a file on it coz it has 93 mb used SPACE.. and when i try to view the files in the command prompt only two things i found, its autorun.inf and logonui.exe.. and i dont have any idea what is logonui.exe. Is logonui.exe safe APPLICATION? Could anyone help me fix this problem.. i really need to get back the pictures inside the memory.. by the way the memory card is kingston 2gb..

Thanks... daryllsilorio,What happens when you put the SD card in a CAMERA and try to view the pictures? If you can view the pictures via the camera then perhaps by leaving the card in the camera and plugging in the camera to the computer's USB port you could transfer the PHOTOS to the HDD of the computer. truenorthQuote

only two things i found, its autorun.inf and logonui.exe.

From 3, 4 days my PC has scratchy sound sometimes no sound and SOMETIME normal sound (in starting for a short time) .
A VOICE (like pat pat) also comes from speakers.
plz advise me to what to do.
Note :i hv WINDOWS xp. , speakers are normal as i cheked by using different speakers.

I need a 256mb graphic card with 3.0 pixel shader. i want to PLAY global agenda which needs 3.0 shader.I do not understand all of this stuff about graphics cards and so i am asking you.
I want something around 70$ if that is possible.

my specs.
Operating System
MS Windows Vista Business 32-bit SP2

CPU
Intel PENTIUM 4 520
Prescott 90nm Technology

RAM
3.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 266MHz (4-4-4-12)

Motherboard
Dell Inc. 0M3918 (Microprocessor)

Graphics
Acer H203H ([emailprotected])
128MB ATI Radeon X300/X550/X1050 Series (ATI)
ATI Radeon X300/X550/X1050 Series Secondary (ATI)
CrossFire Disabled

Hard Drives
625GB Western Digital WDC WD6400AAKS-00A7B2 ATA Device (SATA)

I also have 305 maximum watts for the power capacity.

PCI-E

Thanks305 watts is really really measly. If you put a graphics card in the PC will not START up, thats for sure. You need at least a 350 W PSU to support an external graphics card, and that is without a SATA DVD drive plugged in.


I would go with a GeForce 9800 GT 512 MB, preferably by EVGA-on newegg some of them run for about $55-$80.
If you are planning to game on your computer, your system needs a MAJOR overhaul. The RAM clock, for example, is a horrible 266 MHZx2=452 MHz. DDR2 should run at 800 MHz at the VERY LEAST.

I have a laptop with Windows Vista Home Premium. How can I install The full version of Windows Vista Ultimate to an external hard drive without my laptop thinking I want to upgrade it's OS?
SORRY. should have been more clear on the FIRST post. (Windows Visit Ultimate) is the last in the series of Vista OS,sXP will not run from an external HDD...this is by design.

It can be done but it's an awful LOTTA work and is not ALWAYS successful...Quote from: ssgtusmc on October 02, 2009, 07:58:16 AM

Windows home ultimate

I was just nit-picking about the erroneous term, "Windows home ultimate", in the OP.

Hi, I have recently installed Win 7 on a Toshiba SATELLITE L300 0G0 all is GOOD EXCEPT now I can't use the webcam. The webcam is in the list of devices and the driver is showing as installed (Chicony USB 2.0 camera). So then how do I use the webcam or do I need to do something else to make it accessable.What PROGRAM(s) did you intend to use it with? Examples are Yahoo Messenger, Skype, etc. If have such a program installed, can you open it and display video from your webcam in it?

If you open Devices and Printers and then double click on the webcam, does that open a webcam panel showing video from the webcam?

I was able to get into set-up and change the boot order to diskette, then CD, then hard drive.

When I start the computer, it takes about 20 minutes to actually start - but does eventually start.

The CD also doesn't work - but I think I just need to get the drivers, onto the diskette.

Any ideas on the why its TAKING so long to actually start and how do I fix this?

I got the computer free - because it was old with a bad hard drive. I want to put PCLinuxOS on it to learn without causing any problems with my desktop.
CD drives require no drivers. What is make & model of laptop? What OS?
Long startup time could be due to DEAD CMOS battery.Quote from: hopingForAnswers on July 26, 2011, 06:26:15 PM

I don't think its the Cmos battery because - the DATE was correct and the time was about right and I didn't UNPLUG it between restarts.

Regarding the Operating system - right now it has none and I booted frim a Dos5 disk I found. I'm trying to find additional dos disks so I create a startup drive with the correct drivers. (The drivers are on 2 CD I received with the computer).

I also wants to try reformatting the hard drive - I don't think this will work because setp doesn't even recognize them.

Within the last 30 minutes my speaker output is not working. It KEEPS switching from my headphones to speakers which is annoying as I want to listen through headphones.

Things i have done
1. changed headphones
2. changed speaker output port


My PC is a HP pavilion dv7 notebook PC. It is only a YEAR old and has had no modifications to it.

My soundcard is fine in actually playing the SOUNDS it just wont play it through the right device.Have you tried to open your volume control (might NEED to GO additionally once opened into "advanced') to ensure that your speaker volume is NOT muted?truenorth

Errors found. CHKDSK cannot CONTINUE in read-only mode.
Microsoft Windows XP [Version 5.1.2600]
(C) Copyright 1985-2001 Microsoft Corp.
C:\DOCUMENTS and Settings\Stan>chkdsk
The type of the file system is NTFS.
WARNING! F parameter not specified.
Running CHKDSK in read-only mode.
CHKDSK is verifying files (stage 1 of 3)...
Deleted corrupt attribute list entry
with type code 128 in file 101013.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 101079.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 101096.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 124715.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 126850.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 126898.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 257165.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 274406.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 296505.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 299759.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 303759.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 312663.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 330632.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 334126.
Deleting corrupt attribute record (128, "")
from file record segment 345900.
File verification completed.
Deleting orphan file record segment 101079.
Deleting orphan file record segment 101096.
Deleting orphan file record segment 312612.
Errors found. CHKDSK cannot continue in read-only mode.

My reason for running chkdsk was because:
My PC (hard drive to be specific) had no activity during gaming (my whole pc FREEZES at this point). I have a small led light that blinks or dims to show HDD activity, and when my game freezes(whole pc doesnt not respond) the light turns off, I figured that there would be something wrong with the HDD.

*I've ran a CHKDSK (the one that runs when you boot up the pc and not while you are logged in)
BUT, I did not know the RESULTS of it. It ran, but obviously I don't have the time to wait hours for it to finish. Once I came back to check on my pc, it was at the Windows Login screen. Double Post
Topic Closed.

Please see your other thread for responses...

the ram thing worked but why? lol
can i put in the other ram stick in later?

I am useing Print Desing Gol 8. to MAKE BIZ Card and print on Envalolpes

It has a feature that lets you put a LOT of Addresses in a Dada Bass then make an Envalope and have it print every address one at a time on every Envalope that comesd out of the printer.

But it is very hard to have it LINK to the Address Dada Bass.

Is there a Free program that will print Envalopes something that will TAKE all the Adress you put in and print them on every Envalope one at a time??

I bought a new computer today, 8GB ram aprox 1.8 Tera space ( Said 6 GB ram and 1Tera space on specs though lol )
Eitherway, I start up minecraft, and BOOM! 1-4 fps with a texture pack, I shut down texture pack and its 10-20 fps.
I've updated my drivers and all so I suspect it might be my GRAPHIC card.

Heres the Dxdiag.
http://www.2shared.com/document/hsvuhAGH/DxDiag.html

Would appreciate answer ASAP.

[Intend to have it as a gaming computer]

[regaining space - attachment deleted by admin]INTEL(R) HD Graphics Family is not a gaming GPU.
You could see if there is an updated driver: http://downloadcenter.intel.com/

Your Driver Version: 8.15.10.2342
Latest Driver Version: 8.15.10.2413Doubt a driver update will improve it much...but it certainly can't hurt to try it...I agree. These 2nd Generation Intel® Core™ processor family graphics drivers are so new, there is probably not a lot of gaming support as of this time.
Intel says: Intel® HD Graphics is built into the processor and delivers immersive mainstream gaming and 3D experiences.If we knew what MBoard this was perhaps we could suggest a decent card for your needs...System Manufacturer: Packard BELL
System Model: imedia S3840
sold in Germany, can you translate: http://www.packardbell.de/pb/de/DE/content/model/PT.U6LE2.001Not about to ...no.
Did you ?

Yesterday while printing out some documents, the printer stopped printing black text. The cartridge gauge showed empty so I removed the black cartridge and refilled it. However, after re-inserting it, the gauge still shows empty and the printer still will not PRINT BLACK.. The printer is a HP Mod 4500 Wireless 4 way, the cartridge is a HP 901 Black. I suspect the machine has disabled the black cartridge ink injectors because of the "print gauge" showing empty (can it do this?) .. Does any one know how to deal with this problem? Thank you for reading this. Jim1. Either buy a new genuine HP cartridge or take your old one to a shop which can reset its chip. Even though you refilled the cartridge I expect you didn't reset the chip which it contains. Thus the printer reports the same (empty) cartridge to the printer driver.

2. Don't type all in capital letters.
Given in your initial post you are accustomed to refilling it (yourself i assume) another alternative is to purchase a "chip resetter" and/or a cartridge replacement that does NOT require resetting. Neither of these options are available from any manufacturer and should NOT be pursued while your printer remains under warranty. Not because they are dangerous but they will certainly void the warranty. In an earlier CH thread i posted a company that i have often used for these purposes and can highly recommend.They are located in the state of Georgia in the Atlanta area of the U.S.A. I am again offering their web site. If the geography permits you can contact them toll free or by e-mail to see what if anything they offer in that regard for your printer.
Quote from: truenorth on August 07, 2011, 06:51:56 PM

Have used often and can highly recommend.
http://www.printerfillingstation.com/
truenorth