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I was wondering what exactly disk check does and how it helps the computer. I would also like too know what triggers these cause I have had more than an few on the time with my computer. Also if you get them will the harm you computer in any way?
Quote from: 18carNASCAR on July 12, 2011, 04:29:40 AM

I was wondering what exactly disk check does and how it helps the computer.

I would also like too know what triggers these cause I have had more than an few on the time with my computer.

Also if you get them will the harm you computer in any way?

Dust can get in and damage a sector. Smoking around your PC will increase this risk. High humidity will not help.

i want to SEND files to one win 95 to ANOTHER useing the 9 pin crossover anyone KNOW how to do it?http://www.laplink.com/I like this one better.
Has pictures. I READ better with pictures.
http://www.lammertbies.nl/comm/info/RS-232_null_modem.html

I know SATA 3. is 300 MBps and that is also 3,000 Mbps
But How many Maga Bytes does SATA 1. run at and how many Maga Bits does SATA 1. also run at??Google SATAThe ORIGINAL SATA was about the same as the PATA for actual transfer speeds. But there are other factors that could influence transfer speed. The transfer rate was about 1.5 Mbps for either interface.
The SATA 3 specification is still in progress.
Or else it is not what they said it would be.
Here is an article that is critical of the HOOPLA,
http://www.atomicmpc.com.au/News/159125,first-sata-3-performance-impression-not-much-has-changed-yet.aspxQuote from: Geek-9pm on November 11, 2009, 04:18:30 PM

The original SATA was about the same as the PATA for actual transfer speeds. But there are other factors that could influence transfer speed. The transfer rate was about 1.5 Mbps for either interface.
The SATA 3 specification is still in progress.
Or else it is not what they said it would be.
Here is an article that is critical of the hoopla,
http://www.atomicmpc.com.au/News/159125,first-sata-3-performance-impression-not-much-has-changed-yet.aspx

...when COMPARED to IDE (133MB/s theoretical max vs. SATA II's 3Gbit/s)...

I have a Sony Z1VA that I sent to a repair shop to REPLACE the hard drive. In the process, the shop damaged the ribbon cable that connects the keyboard to the motherboard and the connector now is not holdings together.

The shop said they received the laptop in that condition even though it was purchased from new and never been open up. So it is a he say they say situation. Some of the keys on the keyboard no longer work because the connectors are not holding together. Can I use superglue to hold the connectors ? Just a drop or two into the holes of the connector or is there some other way ?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks1. Superglue is a good electrical insulator so putting drops of it in the connector's holes will make things worse.
2. Once you have superglued a connector in place you will probably never be able to disconnect it.
3. Buy a new keyboard and either fit it yourself or find a different repair shop.

It may never have been opened since new, but that laptop was new a long time ago... like 7 or 8 years ago. Maybe it's time to get a new one.





Quote from: Salmon Trout on July 02, 2011, 06:31:05 AM

1. Superglue is a good electrical insulator so putting drops of it in the connector's holes will make things worse.
2. Once you have superglued a connector in place you will probably never be able to disconnect it.
3. Buy a new keyboard and either fit it yourself or find a different repair shop.

It may never have been opened since new, but that laptop was new a long time ago... like 7 or 8 years ago. Maybe it's time to get a new one.

I believe i see a trend developing with your posts. You ask us some questions we give what we believe is an answer that will best meet your needs (often including why you should NOT do something) then back you come trying to get a change of mind. This happened with your hard-drive removal issue on perhaps the same computer. Members (including myself) and other sources warned you against trying to "prise" off plastic parts on the HDD. Still you had to do it and the proposed result that it would cause damage was exactly what occurred in that case. Now let me be the 1st to say you are totally at liberty to do ANYTHING you want when it comes to trying to deal with your computer issues(including doing things we urge you NOT to do). But i have to wonder why you bother to come to us with your questions when ultimately you will go ahead with things that you were warned about that will defeat what should be in your own best interest. I would be very interested to hear your explanation for that phenomenon? truenorht

You have nothing to lose by trying, but if you are anxious to conserve resources you do not have to throw away the whole laptop; you can just replace the keyboard. Anyhow, can't you send it for recycling?

You said that "....warned you against trying to "prise" off plastic parts on the HDD. Still you had to do it ...." Did I missed something somewhere as I can't find where did this happen ?? Such assumptions is where you ended up with this mesage to me which is uncalled for since eveyone have the right to come back with further comments or like you, if they find I am difficult, to ignore me !!

Everyone's circumstances are affected by many factors when it comes to making decisions and of course it ALWAYS remains the prerogative of the individual to do "their own thing". That philosophy certainly extends to you as you try to deal with your computer issues. However we here on the CH forums (for the most part) take pride in our efforts to help others without cost and to the best of our individual and collective abilities. You are right when you mention in your last post my reference to the "prising" of plastic HDD connections and to my concerns as to the potential detrimental consequences of such an effort. Therefore it was frustrating to see that you were possibly (what i believed again) about to embark on another potentially disadvantageous endeavor. My own belief is that when dealing with many of the conundrums of life there can be great advantage to receiving advice and suggestions from many sources to either develop a consensus or to see of the more than one way to do something. I do NOT profess to a propitiatory ownership of ALL facts and truths but as i believe to be the case with the vast majority of CH members we try our best and it can be very frustrating when things go wrong by doing things that were warned against. I am sure i speak for the general belief of the CH membership when we welcome your participation both as a receiver and provider of assistance here on the forums. In fact if a suggestion does not sit right with you it should be questioned. However sometimes the reasons and evidence are overwhelming and should be followed.truenorth

In any case, getting back to the issue on hand, I'd still like to find out if there is a made for home use glue that can be use safely on the connectors.

Safely? Yes. Pretty much any glue.

Whether it will work is another question altogether that nobody here can answer with any amount of certainty. You may very well make things worse.

hello everybody..my floppy drive (A:) does not show up in my computer anymore...I bought the drive from a comp store and they installed it. I had it working and then one day it stopped showing up there. IVE TRIED EVERYTHING...checked BIOS, and it says its enabled. I downloaded tweakUI(cuz someone told me that WOULD work) it didnt. Device manager says its "working properly". the light on my floppy drive still turns on when i restart the computer. Is there anything i left out? I was thinking it had something to do with my windows xp automatic updates and MAYBE it messed with the drivers, but no the drivers are up to date...this is a very FRUSTRATING problem guys. ive looked on this forum to see if someone had the same problem as me but didnt find anything. my pc is a HP pavillion a884n (if u need that info)..any help would be GREATLY appreciated..thanksTo make sure the drive is still working, put drive a: at the top of the boot order in bios and insert a bootable floppy. Then REBOOT. Does the system see the drive at boot?yes i have already made sure the drive works.Well what exactly happens when you insert a floppy disc? Does Windows Explorer show an a: drive?Quote

my floppy drive (A:) does not show up in my computer anymore...

DLoad a boot disk from bootdisk.com...WinME is fine...
Extract the file to a clean floppy and test as Allan has instructed above...

So I have been reading online for some weeks that I should increase the dpi of my images to get better quality upon printing. Trying this multiple times, the quality of the image is still very poor and is just getting worse.

I have a Dell 3115cn printer at work and we print a lot of information sheets on our company and products. I`m finding that the printer is printing these weird pixels that are not visible on screen. So I went into Photoshop and re-did the image from scratch at 300 dpi. The colours of this one particular image I`m currently working on is red and white. FFFFFF is being used to get the purest white possible. The printer prints these dark, huge and nasty looking pixels in those white areas. It prints BEST out of photoshop, ok but getting pixels in Power Point but just the worst quality possible in PDF.

I read that having the image in png instead of jpg was an issue. Making it jpg didn`t help whatsoever. My ink levels are at 80% on all 4 cartridges. Telling the program to tell the printer to print "high quality" didn`t help. Having the dpi at 300 isn`t helping.

I have some old prints form the printer made last year by the previous employee in my position and there is no pixelation whatsoever and I am using all the same programs as they did to create these brochures (creating images, then putting it together in Power Point then converting to PDF and printing from there).

Why is this happening and what will solve it? I have changed the many settings in both Power Point and Adobe Acrobat various websites during my search say for me to change but nothing still is making these images retain their quality.Whoever the prior used did before worked. He did not have to do what you are trying ton do. Leave it alone. The default settings are then best for most applications.

Every time a picture has to be adjusted into another format, quality is lost. The exceptions is to use then recommended methods used for common pictures in several programs. This often means the pictures are stored in just one place in the high-quality format and other programs have to link the pictures rather than embed them. The picture is temporary sized to fit the display, and sized again from then original to fit the printer. The original is never altered.

The resolution on your screen is much lower than the printer. If the picture is from a link, the print thing will scale the picture correctly to the printer. But if the picture has been forced to be a raster, it will look ugly on the printer.

Hope you understand that.
Perhaps this might explain it better.
http://www.labnol.org/software/insert-images-in-word-documents/8144/Thanks for sharing the link. What do you mean by "raster"?

Whoever the prior used did before worked. He did not have to do what you are trying ton do. Leave it alone. The default settings are then best for most applications.
How do I reset the defaults in PowerPoint? I can`t seem to find that function and I think I just may be not looking in the right place.

I read over the link and tried out the method mentioned. It has helped but still isn`t quite there. So then my understanding is that regardless of what I do, quality in the image, particularly ones that have white on them since that`s where the extra mess is appearing, is lost, especially during the conversion to PDF despite efforts to convert it because this is how the programs are handling the conversion between the formats.

If that is the case, since Photoshop is giving me the best results for this brochure, should I just re-create all of our brochures to that format and THEN convert to PDF? I made a quick test and am seeing better results but I would like to test further before making any official statements. I hesitate though doing it this way because I`m one of the few employees here that can work with Photoshop and Photoshop doesn`t seem to scale things as cleanly as what PowerPoint does (or at LEAST one this first test it hasn`t, I`ll make a full test before saying anything officially about that, too) and Photoshop also seems to make editing the files more difficult than Power Point. (For the record, I am a total Photoshop lover, I use it for all of my personal projects. But when it comes to printing I always hire a professional printer company to print for me. So this issue is kind of new to me.)

PowerPoint seems to have nearly all the pluses (for the business anyway, I wouldn`t use it for my own persona projects) for modifying these brochure files (it easily changes paragraphs to make it conform to the edges of the canvas whereas Photoshop will let it run off the canvas sides, it has text effects we like to use on our brochures that Photoshop doesn`t have, it has clip art that Photoshop doesn`t have). Is it possible to use PowerPoint to make those text effects and clip art images and just "copy and paste" into Photoshop? (It may be the long way of doing it but as an artist and for the need of presenting my company as professional when our sales people hand out these brochures in meetings, I want quality when these prints are done and if this is the way it has to be done when other methods have been exhausted, so be it). It looks great on screen (even in the past before I started making posts asking for help) but printing (even from PowerPoint instead of PDF since PDF is just chopping it to bits) still seems to have issues.

At least with the method in the link you shared has made progress for printing from PowerPoint. There is a noticeable difference between how it prints from PowerPoint now than before with that "Insert and Link" method. But what do you think? Should I just re-create everything in Photoshop?

I`ll post again after I have made a full test that I mentioned earlier and report the results. Should be in no more than an hour.Ok, I re-created (quickly) one of the pages of our brochure in Photoshop and directly converted into PDF then printed. I don`t have any of those nasty pixels showing up. I will need to make adjustments to make the design fit the original exactly (like changing font sizes) but it would appear that using Photoshop to create these pages and then directly convert to PDF seems to be the magic combo of getting the images to print out properly WITHOUT all that mess.

I still worry if this is the best way to go, mainly because if anyone else needs to edit these brochures when I`m not around/too busy/no longer employed at this company.Here is an item of interest.
http://thedailyreviewer.com/windowsapps/view/print-to-pdf-horrible-image-quality-10175742

Quote

It looks great on screen

Hi, I'm looking into buying a solid state DISK for my laptop and was ALSO wanting to buy a GOOD eSATA External Hard Drive...does anybody have good recommendations for me?

ThanksJust stick with a name brand (Seagate - Maxtor - IBM - WD, etc). These days they all PUT out good products.Hi there,

I have an external hard drive for my lappy, it's 160GB capacity, requires mains power and is USB.

If you're interested, it's a "Trekstor Datastation maxi nu"

It's not solid state, but it's very fast.

Today i TRIED to install a new wireless device on my DESKTOP so that i could use wifi on my desktop, so i powered my system down, and put the device in the PCI express slot, which is the slot indicated on the install guide. After installing i tried to turn my system back on, but it would not turn on, i removed the device, but still no power, what should i do?Check all the cords. You MIGHT have accidentally UNPLUGGED some THING.

I have a 20 GB external hard drive. I added SEVERAL files to it on my laptop. I then unplugged it and hooked it up to my PC. Suddenly it doesn't work. I have GONE into device manager and tried uninstalling and reinstalling, updating the driver, and then throwing it out the window. Sometimes it tells me the device can't start (code 10), the device is working properly, and sometimes it tells me there is no driver. I don't know what else to try and any new suggestions WOULD be greatly appreciated. I have PROBABLY 5,000 files on it and would like to at least save those if nothing else. Thank you in advance.Does it still work with your laptop or is it pretty much dead on all systems?It's not working on the laptop either.Put the external hard drive in the freezer for an hour, then try it again. Be prepared to get all your files off fast. Don't get your hopes up, it probably won't work.

I have just installed a floppy drive hardware in my p4asus800 computer and have only plugged the
power connector in place (small WHITE plastic one) and not the comm ribbon. I was wondering if I hook everything up that the led will come on and let me KNOW it's working. I have windows xp and don't know what to do from here..... please help me! thanks lydiaIf the drive is working properly, it will spin when you FIRST turn on the computer. If the Floppy is set as then fist boot device, it will try to read from a diskette in the drive. If not diskette present, it will boot for the next available device.
If hyou have a formatted diskette in the floppy but no actual operating SYSTEM. the boot loader with say:
NTLDR is MISSING...crunch any key.
Or some similar message. It means then drive is working. A floppy that does not work right may cause the computer to hang on boot.Also if the light is on all the time, that means the ribbon cable is in upside down.

Have a Seagate SATA drive in a HP laptop that I have WIPED and reformatted. I boot up with an XP system disc which loads all the drivers, etc but when it gets to the point of starting up the Windows (when it asks which partition to load into) it crashes to a blue screen which says there is a problem with the hard drive or a virus. I have tested the hard drive using Seatools + some Hiren testing tools and all say it is good. Have run a Memtest + another memory diagnostic which all came back clear. Any suggestions as to what might be the problem or what I can test next?Is the Seagate HD the original drive came with your laptop? What issues that prompted you to reinstall XP OS? Are you sure you wiped out any pre existing OS and followed on how to delete, create and install XP?
Quote

it crashes to a blue screen which says there is a problem with the hard drive or a virus

There should be a drop down boxfor selecting the file location...point it to the appropiate spot.

'setup did not find any hard disk drives installed on this computer'

Or the manuf. Driver CD....she may have to orfer 1.

Note Mass storage controller drivers can be loaded only from floppy disks by using the F6 key. The F6 key cannot be used to load drivers that are stored on USB flash drives, on USB hard disks, or on other external storage devices.

HI All **Does any one know how to add a MAC ADDRESS to an ACCESS Control List in a Bigpond Elite Router???HELP This settings on Filtering MAC Address might differ on OS and Router BRAND but mostly similar in configurations for you to USE as a guide.
http://www.wikihow.com/Create-Machine-Address-Filter-List-on-a-Home-Router . If you happen to have any Manual, CHECK on the required setup for you to make.Since an access control list is usually...or most likely a Parental control it would seem you were not the one who set it up...
Therefore we can assist no further.

Topic Closed.

Ok so I built my first computer a couple of months ago and it has been working perfectly fine since then. Now all of a sudden around last week it has been automatically restarting every time I turn it on. It's weird because it goes through a series of quick RESTARTS; first it reaches windows then it happens, then it doesn't even reach the password screen and it restarts again, and finally it doesn't do it for a while at least. Some days it can be left on for hours while I play games even and it doesn't restart, usually after it GETS done with its fit after I first turn it on.

I don't believe it is heat in general, case temp is always around 34 all the fans are on the video card temp is fine, core is good. I'm wondering if my psu's fan isn't running to great? It's on but i'm not sure if it is weaker then it was before. Everything is here : http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx?WishListNumber=6935634

Could it be the ram? I'm not extremely savvy on everything yet and everything has been working perfectly for 3+ months. System Properties - ADVANCED - Startup & Recovery SETTINGS ---- uncheck "automatically restart". If you get a blue screen error instead of a reboot next time, post the entire contents of that blue screen here. But if the system continues to reboot it is most likely a hardware issue.Ahh yeah, I've already unchecked that but I have never gotten a blue screen with this pc yet. So what do you THINK is broken, something that works sometimes like now but messes up when i turn it on? Just bugs me cause It's been on for a while again with no problem, but we'll see.I'd run a complete set of diagnostics (ram, hd, cpu, psu, video card, etc).

I have a Gateway MX6421. The CD/DVD door will not EJECT. I tried pressing the BUTTON and using the control panel to OPEN, neither work. Anyone know an easy fix, or does it need to be sent out for repair?There should be a little hole in the front of the cd drive. Insert a PAPER clip into that hole and push until the cd door opensOk, I will TRY that when I get home...

ThanxsureQuote from: aanthonyfranks on July 14, 2011, 10:34:13 PM

you can also open by using a screwdriver or something else that's pretty thin.

I had a friend REFORMAT my computer and he some how swaped the primary partition with the RECOVERY one. I was wondering if i COULD switch them back with out having it formatted agian or am i out of luck. I just need them SWITCHED back. Thanx Not without formatting and installing the OS again, no.On top of that whatever was on the Recovery partition is now gone...
Contact the manuf. for restore CD's...Are those in with the bundle of disks you get with the computer?Yepper...

I have an Epson 3000 scanner. My gray scale scans have a blue cast. I have tried everything. I can not get rid of this in Photoshop elements after scanning. I use scans to SELL. This is a big PROBLEM. Black And White scans ALWAYS look horrible with every scanner I have ever had. That is not an option.
XP.Quote from: blaumann on July 12, 2011, 10:04:43 PM

I have an Epson 3000 scanner. My gray scale scans have a blue cast.
XP.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330588203386
One offending scan

there is no blue in that image.

there is no blue in that image. I suspect it might be a setting on your monitor.

Very funny, not my eyesight.
How do i "our monitor color (colour) temperature /tint/ colour balance"?

I have a working LCD monitor and am trying to get my laptop to recognize it. I go through all te set up steps properly. F7 is the toggle and all I get is a blank screen on the external monitor (the power light is green).

I updated the driver. No help there.

If I go to display devices via XP, I see the second monitor. If I click "extend..." then a mesage flickers on the display which READS "Analog 1 cannot display in this video mode".

Any help appreciatedWhat is the make and model of the laptop and LCD?

Quote from: camiller000 on September 28, 2009, 08:13:24 AM

...If I go to display devices via XP, I see the second monitor. If I click "extend..." then a mesage flickers on the display which reads "Analog 1 cannot display in this video mode".
...

What is the make and model of the laptop and LCD?

"Extend" option not available to laptop with external monitor.

Last night I was in the middle of playing Counter-strike on my pc and I blue screened. I haven't dusted out my pc in a while so I figured dust may have caused my gfx card to overheat. I opened up my computer and grounded myself, removed my gfx card and dusted it out. After that I noticed my cpu's fan was pretty dusty so I also removed that. I tried getting my fan back in but I was having some issues and disconnected everything from my motherboard and put it back on outside of the case. After I put the cpu fan back on my motherboard I put all of my hardware back in my case, connected everything that I have previously disconnected, and put the cover back on. When I started up my computer I didn't have any display at all or no beeps. I was almost certain I had fried my motherboard but I removed my stick of ram and booted and got a couple beeps. Im not too sure but I think if I get beeps after I remove my ram, my motherboard isn't fried?

I don't know if this will help but these are my components;

Coolermaster 500W PSU
Biostar T41 HD MB
1GB Nvidia Geforce GTS 250
2.55 GHz Core2Quad Q8200 (stock 2.33 but i oc'd to 2.55)
1 2GB PNY 800Mhz DDR2

Anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

Thank you.Quote from: badbrad611 on July 13, 2011, 11:01:55 AM

I haven't dusted out my pc in a while so I figured dust may have caused my gfx card to overheat. I opened up my computer and grounded myself, removed my gfx card and dusted it out. After that I noticed my cpu's fan was pretty dusty so I also removed that. I tried getting my fan back in but I was having some issues and disconnected everything from my motherboard and put it back on outside of the case.

I noticed my cpu's fan was pretty dusty so I also removed that.

My 1-year old vostro 1000 is beginning to show symptoms of overheating (shutting down randomly, and speedfan shows high temps), and so I'm going to give it a good dusting. My question is: how exactly should I GO about this? I'm not sure exactly which vent I should be blowing into... I'm pretty sure the intake vent is on the left side (it is labeled in the user manual as air vent), and it SEEMS the air exits in the rear (but this one is not labeled in the user manual). Then there is the grid of holes on the bottom below the fan... which is which, and which one should I blow into? Also, WOULD it be a good idea to put a paperclip through one of the bottom holes in order to prevent the fan from overspinning? (assuming I should not blow through the bottom)Is this yours?


Generally, laptops don't ACCUMULATE much dust. You should be able to figure out which is the intake and which is the exhaust.Ok let me give you a different angle as I have become an expert in laptop cleaning RECENTLY.
It depends on how comfortable you are pulling apart your laptop. I was very nervous now I do it once a month.. and clean out the fins.
If you would like one to one advice no problem trust me it's easier than you think. I will happily take you step by step through it.. Just let me know on PM Quote

Generally, laptops don't accumulate much dust.

Well, would you recommend first trying to get the dust out without taking it apart, and see if that brings the temp down? And yes, the picture is of my laptop, and I assume (just trying to validate) the exhaust is on the right on the rear, and that I should aim the compressed air through there?

I have a Windows XP. As soon as I boot up my COMPUTER and try to LOG in, it freezes up as I click on my NAME to log in. Someone please HELP me with this issue. Did you try Safe Mode?

I use a VGA connection to watch whatever I want in my TV, but RECENTLY the IMAGE does not appears centered in the TV, gets slightly to the right, with a black band in the left. Resuming I cannot see 100% of the laptop is showing. what might I have done/deleted in order for this to happen? or is a problem with the cable? It's a Sony Vaio with 3 year old and uses Windows Vista. thank youEither our TV o you laptop has some provision to change the shape and size of the display. Try MAKING small changes to the resolution and refresh rate.yea my laptop did that until i CHANGED the resolution.Quote from: Dustin13838 on July 15, 2011, 03:28:29 PM

yea my laptop did that until i changed the resolution.

Hello.

I turned on my PC this morning, and noticed that the dark backgrounds of websites or Steam or the dark bits in my desktop wallpaper, are extremely dark, they're pitch black!

I have the BRIGHTNESS and contrast turned all the way up, i fiddled with the settings of the MONITOR and the DISPLAY/resolutions settings, and it won't change..
All other colors are looking normal, and they're very bright, but the black/dark blue bits of my Start Menu background and Steam backgrounds are so pitch black as if they are immune to the brightness option..

I just tried playing The Elder SCROLLS IV: Oblivion. While i was outside in a field, everything looked bright and great. When i went into an underground crypt, i could only see the torches on the walls. I couldn't see anything around me!

It's as if something is maximizing the darkness of dark colors and making them pitch black, and immune to bightness.
I suspect that something in my video card, or RAM, or monitor, has gone broken causing this abnormal color damage..

I am running Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit, using a SAMSUNG SyncMaster 226BW 22'' 1680x1050 monitor, running a GeForce 8600 GT and AMD Athlon 2x3Ghz 6000+

Any help appreciated!I had a similar but different issue once where everything was whiter than normal and bleached out. It was able to be corrected thru video card driver update. In the past, I had a CRT monitor get darker, but it was the monitor crapping out and nothing was brite and vibrant with it. If you have a spare display kicking around or can borrow one from a friend etc, you could rule out graphics driver or video card and determine if the monitor or not I suppose.

i am having a problem with my COMPUTER.
i can't find anything on my screen when i switched on my computer but the cpu fans,dvd drive and processor is running.
there is no beep sound from the cpu.
i am using intel 945 model motherboard.
when this problem occured last time,i disconnected all external devices and restarted.it worked for few months but now i can't solve this problem even though i checked the ram by changing the ram slots but it is of no use.
so, someone kindly provide with me a super solution ??? 1. No Beep. Does your computer normally beep upon successful startup? One Beep?

2. No Display.
a. Nothing at all DISPLAYS on the monitor during system startup? Not even a "No video signal" message when computer is POWERED off, but display is powered on?

b. What is the "state" of the display's front power LED? On/off, solid/blinking, what color? What "states" does it go through from power off to power on to system startup?when my computer is woking properly the LED is in dark blue color.but now when i SWITCH on my computer it is in dark blue for 3 or 4 sec and goes to yellow color.
first,i thought that the problem is with my LCD screen but it is displaying check signal cable when the cord wire is disconnected from cpu.

ya, my computer will beep normally upon successful startup.Quote from: dahlarbear on September 28, 2009, 02:10:31 AM

1. No Beep. Does your computer normally beep upon successful startup? One Beep?

2. No Display.
a. Nothing at all displays on the monitor during system startup? Not even a "No video signal" message when computer is powered off, but display is powered on?

b. What is the "state" of the display's front power LED? On/off, solid/blinking, what color? What "states" does it go through from power off to power on to system startup?

1. No Beep. Does your computer normally beep upon successful startup? One Beep?

2. No Display.
a. Nothing at all displays on the monitor during system startup? Not even a "No video signal" message when computer is powered off, but display is powered on?

b. What is the "state" of the display's front power LED? On/off, solid/blinking, what color? What "states" does it go through from power off to power on to system startup?

I tried to scan a photo but when I scan a photo, there is a message saying: PRINTER maintenance is in progress. Scan after if it is complete. Code: 2,114,0 and the alarm button in my printer is blinking.

Anyone can help me? THANK youDid you let it run to see if it completes the maintenance program?truenorthWhere I can find the run for maintenance...i never tried it and what the Code: 2,114,0.

Thank youJust to give you some information re canon "all in one" printers. If you run out of even one cartridge's ink you will NOT be able to use ANY of it's functions. So do you have an ink out error (now or prior to this incident )?
Some people have APPARENTLY had success with this"Just hold the STOP and reset button until the warning GOES away.". However if you are out of any ink i doubt that will work. Have you recently replaced or refilled any of the ink cartridges? If yes how did you do it? truenorthI guess you are right....no more ink now...Thank you..

my COMPUTER COMES on at TIMES on its own after logging off and shutting it off.it comes on during the night and during the day at any given time. I moved your Post from the FAQ section to here...
more information needed.........Check in BIOS for a SETTING that says something like Wake On Lan and if you find it, disable it.where do you go for bios im new at thisWhen your system first boots watch the screen for a message that says something like: To enter bios (or setup) press ??. Then press whatever key is indicated.

An icy pole was left on top of a compact disc digital audio player. It melted so the sugary liquid ran down through the player. We have disconnected it from the power and intend to leave it for days to dry out naturally before trying it. But we are concerned that the nature of the fluid will cause problems. Is there anything else we can do?I would think it wouldnt be a problem as long as you got it unplugged and all electricity to it stopped because i have had pool water get into a phone MULTIPLE times and it always worked in the end. I would just recomend that you leave it for a good 5 days and in a room that is average room temp not to hot just to make sure.The sugar will probably be the issue as it probably will crystalise...what sugary substance was this ? ?The icy pole was frozen flavored and sweetened water. The outside of the player is sticky to the touch.Clean the outside of the player with Windex and a soft cloth.
You will then need to remove the outer case to see how much got into the inside...use a flashlight and magnifying glass for this...I have cleaned the outside. I see no point in taking the cover off as i am not an electronics whizz. I will report back in five days as to what HAPPENS when we try to start it then. it doesn't take an electronics whiz to recognize goo.I might be able to recognize goo. What should I then do? The goo would be sugar crystals. The most likely problem, however, is that there is water damage. That is the most common problem with electronics. The player, as usual, has warnings about water. Quote from: denisaf on September 13, 2009, 12:42:44 AM

I might be able to recognize goo. What should I then do?

LapTop, The Commissioned Sales PERSON, Part 1

How to deal with Sales People when buying a LapTop!

-Do you have a LapTop Bag? (this answer is up to you. although you can use almost any bag for LapTop's, not garbage or plastic bags)

Do you have Mice? No I prefer Cats. (this answer is up to you, if you need a mouse go for it)

Do you have AntiVirus? Sure Do
Shhh, don't tell em' you have these: Avast or AntiVir or MalwareBytes and Adaware, Super AntiSpyware and Spybot

Do you need Microsoft Office? No Thanks, I'm use to OpenOffice

Would you like to have a Service Plan? If I want coverage, I'll use a blanket. (I've been scammed by these before)

After you buy the *Windows* LapTop you might need this: PcDecrapifier.comLapTop, Thieves Hands Off, Part 2

So you saved up for that pretty Laptop, but keep saving, cause you may need some accessories to deter thieves:

-Keep your LapTop's Serial Number and Model Number and any other details on Paper or on a File, away from the LapTop.

-Keep receipts that were given upon PURCHASE of the LapTop and stuff that came with it.

-Use a LapTop Lock, they go from cheap to not so cheap.

-If you own the LapTop try engraving or stickering your name and contact info on it
-Also Use a sticker that either says, Linux ROCKS! and/or Advanced AntiTheft Guard

-Create a Bios Password
-Also some Window OS's have Admin in SafeMode so, make sure a Password is set there too.


-Have files that are very very important?
truecrypt.org

-Save your Files frequently on a Storage Device and/or Secure Online Storage that is seprate from your LapTop Such As:
External HardDrive
Usb Jump Drive
CD/DVD Blank
mozy.com
idrive.com

-Use Software and/or Services To Deter and Track Theft:
absolute.com
safeware.com
softexinc.com
ztrace.com
thelaptoplock.com
adeona.cs.washington.edu
laptopsentry.com
lalarm.com
syfer.nl
maxmind.com
wigle.net
dyndns.com
opendns.com
no-ip.com


Does your MacBook or LapTop have a Built-In Cam?

Mac USER:
foozoodesign.com
gawker.sourceforge.net
slappingturtle.com
panic.com

Pc USER:
yawcam.com


Most important:
-Keep your EYES on that LapTop and/or keep it beside you.LapTop, WiFi Hackers Stay Out, Part 3

Aside from Real Thieves, there may be Air Thieves and Bad News lurking near you:
What do I do?, Simple:

World Renouned Security Expert STEVE Gibson has been giving people the tools to fight back and kill myths about what security is, he also invented the term Spyware.

Here are some links to help stay safe on WiFi:
practicallynetworked.com
grc.com
iopus.com
mywifizone.com





Questions, Comments and Concerns are Welcome! And give thanks if this info was helpful!

Im practically laughing at this now.
My foxconn mobo was fried yesterday night due to a lightning strike. I woke up in the morning to find my mobo emitting a nasty smoke smell-immediately unplugged the power to see what was frying. However, I couldn't pinpoint the exact source-no char marks, no blackened spots, looked as good as new. So I plugged in the power again, to find that it wouldn't turn on. Not even a sign of life.

My first reaction was to salvage the CPU, of course. So I unlatched the CPU fan, and pulled. It wouldn't come off. I applied a little more strength. It wouldn't come off. Being the stubborn donkey I am, I eventually ripped the entire fan out, in the process ripping the CPU out of the socket because the thermal paste was as sticky as epoxy.

About all of the pins were bent-quite a few were bent to the degree that they were touching the board. I spent 45 mins straightening them out with a sewing needle-a lot were bent halfway and/or snapped off halfway. 2 pins even dropped off in the process. The CPU was still attached to the heatsink/fan, and I couldn't get it off.

So I went over to my friends house to see what she could do with her soldering iron-I had TRIED everything to get the CPU detached from the heatsink-even my hairdryer and saliva wouldn't do anything. She heated up the soldering iron without solder and plunged it in between the crack that I made after half an hour of sawing with a kitchen knife. That didn't work either-the CPU thermal paste didn't budge one inch.

I figured I had nothing to lose-I submerged the thing in a bowl filled with AXE detergent and then put it into the microwave after a few minutes-the CPU came off after repeating the process three times. I Hallelujahed my heart out.

So I rush over to my friend's and she gives me a msi nForce 630a MCP61 chipset AM3 mobo. I put the CPU in. Black screen. Sh*t. I was just ready to chuck it away when I noticed that the socket AM3 voltage pins were different from the AM2 ones. So she goes out to get a cheapskate AM2 MCP68 board. IT WORKED!!! I'm typing this from the computer in question, and I want to ASK you all two questions:

1) Why do manufacturers make so MANY REDUNDANT power pins? previously my CPU-z max TDP reading was 60.5 watts, it is 59 now. And I noticed that I am now able to achieve a stable overclock of 235 x14=3.29 GHz with the same voltage. Any Ideas???

2) Are all the precautions for handling electronic equipment overrated? I mean-Caustic solution-Extreme heat-physical damage-etc. and my CPU still works. And is faster than before.Quote from: Transfusion on July 13, 2011, 04:49:18 AM

1) Why do manufacturers make so many redundant power pins? previously my CPU-z max TDP reading was 60.5 watts, it is 59 now. And I noticed that I am now able to achieve a stable overclock of 235 x14=3.29 GHz with the same voltage. Any Ideas???

2) Are all the precautions for handling electronic equipment overrated? I mean-Caustic solution-Extreme heat-physical damage-etc. and my CPU still works. And is faster than before.

They don't have redundant power pins. From the sounds of it you are now pumping higher voltages through fewer pins. Welcome to the happy world of electron tunneling.

I figured I had nothing to lose-I submerged the thing in a bowl filled with AXE detergent and then put it into the microwave after a few minutes-the CPU came off after repeating the process three times. I Hallelujahed my heart out.

1) Why do manufacturers make so many redundant power pins? previously my CPU-z max TDP reading was 60.5 watts, it is 59 now. And I noticed that I am now able to achieve a stable overclock of 235 x14=3.29 GHz with the same voltage. Any Ideas???

2) Are all the precautions for handling electronic equipment overrated? I mean-Caustic solution-Extreme heat-physical damage-etc. and my CPU still works. And is faster than before.

when we switch on our system an error message SHOWS that "c:\document and settings\system_name\pdns.exe cannot find...........whats this.................Open msconfig to the startup tab and SEE what app is starting that might be looking for powerdnsi did not see any app looking for powerdns .................Well, something is. Do a selective startup in msconfig (DISABLE everything) and REBOOT. What happens?is it possible to enable all,once it was disablehuh?

computer BRAND: Acer aspire e380
MOTHERBOARD: Stock ESC with onboard graphics (important to note this)
Ram: 3gb Kinston 3 sticks
processor: umm i can tell you that its a daul core something..
PCIE: nvida gforce 8400? gt 500mb onboard ram
PCI: lan card
power supply: 350W
HD: SATA 360gb RPM: unknown atm
Screens: two, 1 acer 21" LCD and 1 CRT monitor very old...
O.S.: Windows VIsta home premium 32bit

Problem: will not display anything on monitors, no bios screen and definatly no windows screen, its not just staying black no power is going to the monitor at all. USB 2.0 ports arnt supplying power to my keyboard or mouse.

Troubleshooting done: Iv switched the power supply out with three others a 360W a brandnew 500W and a brandnew 400W and still have the same problem, iv tried removing everything (ram, graphics card, harddrive, CR/DVD RWR drive, and card readers) still had the same issue, installed one ram stick at a time for 4 different sticks still same problem, took fan off cpu, pulled cpu and reset it, same problem, unpluged all cords that plug into the motherboard except power, still have the same problem.

My conclusion: so iv NARROWED it down to this.. either my Mother board is fried or my CPU, i have no way of testing either of the two as i do not have a spar of either, any ideas? oh and iv inspected everyone of the components and they all still look brand new, no discolorations lose components, and the cpu looked brand-new when i pulled it to reset..

It may help you to know that when i turn the pc on fans kick on, HD vibrates as usual, CD drive boots as usual, but still no visual and no USB power. im stumped.

EDIT: i tried removing graphics card and using my onboard vga aswell. still didnt work. also no beeping at all. and HD wont spool up it just starts to but RPMs dont increase its pretty much steady.


Try a different monitor...
Try it with vid card removed...then try it with card re-installed...i FORGOT to mention that didnt i? i tried removing graphics card and using my onboard vga aswell. still didnt work. also no beeping at all. and HD wont spool up it just starts to but RPMs dont increase its pretty much steady.Also i wanted to ask.. will USB ports get power if CPU is bad?Have you tried another monitor ? ?
What happened prior to this ? ?
Why are you convinced it's a CPU issue ? ?as i said i have two monitors an LCD and a CRT tried both still nothing, prior to the issue i remove the case unpluged my front usb cables so i could get to my MIC cable to plug it in because it came loose, checked all pins (good'n straight) and pluged everything back in, went to boot up and nothing happened, no beebs no usb power, no screen, hd spooled up but rpms didnt raise as usual.. fans worked, and front of case showed the ACER lights..

also tried with graphics card in and plugged one monitor to on board and one to PCIE graphics, nothing. so i switched them still nothing.

im not 100% its cpu or mobo, but i would like to know which one i need to replace.. they both cost around $90 so THATS not the issue i just dont want to replace something thats not brokenRe-check all the Front header wires...i'll bet one's missing...front header???Yes...the small tiny header wires that go to the front panel are called header wires/connections...
They control power;reset;HDD LED and other functions.oh my switch wire/connector yea iv checked double checked and tripple checked that wire even did a continuity check on the button and wires all checked good. pins are straight aswell.Post your MBoard model #
HT2000
MCP61PM- AM REV:1.0A
15-V01-011011 Budget low-end Gateway/HP MBoard...if you think the rest of everything is worth salvaging replace the board...
PS. You can have it tested at a local PC repair shop for a nominal fee.ok thanks

okay this ones got me really stumped. Here's the problem.

My desktop was leant to the mother in law, and after about 6 months suddenly it wouldn't load up. So I took it back to look at. When you load the computer up, as soon as it starts to load windows it decides to cut out and restart itself, so I did a format of windows to try and resolve this. Windows installed okay no problem. but the same problem still happens. It will happily sit in the bios screen for as long as you want without cutting out. or even at the screen of "Windows Error Recovery" (PLEASE select an option) until the time is up and it chooses the default.
I've tried loading in safe mode but still nothing. I've thought it may be overheating, So i've taken the sides off, cleaned out all the fans and the boards, taken out the RAM and changed it into the other slots, cleaned the ram and the slots, cleaned the graphics card and the slot. Tried USING a different power cord. I don't THINK it's the power unit because it can stay on for hours (tested upto 2 hours) in Bios without any issues. The heat is registering at:

CPU temp: 40C
System Temp: 26C

Now it is at the stage it wont even load the windows screen, as soon as you select load windows it cuts out and restarts. I tried another format, but now when I boot from CD, it loads the disc, and as soon as the loading screen is over it cuts out again. So wont even boot the CD.

System:
Windows Vista Premium
2 x 1024 Sticks of DDR2 RAM.
A Gforce Gcard, 512 Mem (8600GTX I think...)
ATX-500 POwer unit (230)

any help would be greatly appreciated.
Try it with only 1 stik of RAM...
Borrow another PSU of the same or greater wattage and swap it in there...
DLoad and run the HDD diagnostics from the drive manuf. site.

hello... yeah, i guess this old comp has all the wrong speed stuff in it.

the RAM i got for this Desktop, which the BIOS correctly identified, is at 400MHz.

but when i use CPU-Z, it tells me the speed is only at 200MHz.

why? is this the program's fault, or is some setting screwy?

board: P4P-800-E
memory: KINGSTON KVR400X64C3A/1GDon't you already have a thread on this? If so, you should not POST the same question more than once - it only causes confusion.Quote from: Allan on November 11, 2009, 06:59:13 AM

Don't you already have a thread on this? If so, you should not post the same question more than once - it only causes confusion.

DDR-400 (PC-3200) memory operates at speed of 200MHz. Data transfer rate is 400MHz.
DDR=Double Data Rate; 200 *2 = 400

Alright, excuse my bluntness, but this is really frustrating.

I have 2 computers. For the sake of clarity, lets call the newer one computer a, and the older one computer b.

My PCI WIRELESS NIC stopped working in computer a after I moved my computers. (It was originally from computer b). So, I tried reseating it (multiple times) to no avail.

I have 2 pci slots in computer a; one has a wired NIC and the other has a Wireless NIC (this is the card I am having trouble with). To test whether the PCI SLOT that the Wireless NIC was in wasn't bad, I switched the Wireless and Wired NIC's slots. Again, the wired NIC worked fine and the Wireless NIC wasn't even detected (nothing in device manager). *note that the drivers shipped with the part was installed.


Then, since the Wireless NIC didn't work in computer a, I tried it in computer b to test whether the Wireless NIC was bad. It worked fine, so I left it in computer b.


So, I chalked it up to an oddity and bought a shiny new PCI Wireless NIC.

Its working the same way the other Wireless NIC did.. Computer a did not detect it no matter which slot it was in, even tho the Wired NIC was detected in every slot. (The new Wireless NIC also works in computer b aswell.)

So, either the motherboard in computer a doesn't like wireless NIC's (two of the cards I have tried work fine in computer b, but aren't even detected in computer a - wired NICs apparently work fine though) OR, my motherboard is with me.

I hope someone has the answer to my problem, and isn't scared away by the length of my post and the overly complicated way I explained it... I really just want to be able to use the internet again.

Thanks for reading,
NNJZ
(Formerly known as Image).
If the troubleshooting that you did was accurate, and it sounds like it is then I would say it's a faulty motherboard.i dont have much experience in computer but ur problem i think its dust affecting you motherboard Quote from: Quantos on November 10, 2009, 12:15:22 AM

If the troubleshooting that you did was accurate, and it sounds like it is then I would say it's a faulty motherboard.

i dont have much experience in computer but ur problem i think its dust affecting you motherboard

...So, I chalked it up to an oddity and bought a shiny new PCI Wireless NIC...

Okay a long one.

Well I was taking a shower came out and the cat was all over my keyboard.

I had my speakers on and music also,about 20 applications were on.

So keyboard was froze and it was whining and humming like nothing I have heard before.

Well I thought a reboot would fix it NOT.

So it came back and said "check Video Cable" okay the video card fried,well went and bought one installed same thing.

So returned the card Okay well now I figure that either the MOBO is fried or CPU so a NEW board is here MSI this time.

Old one is Asus M2A-VM AMD Motherboard - AMD 690G, Socket AM2, Audio, Video, DVI, PCI Express, Gigabit LAN, USB 2.0, Serial ATA, RAID

New board is a MSI K9N6PGM2-V Motherboard - NVIDIA GeForce 6100, Socket AM2, MicroATX, Audio, Video, PCI Express, 10/100 ETHERNET LAN, USB 2.0, Serial ATA, RAID

Okay so I have ordered a new CPU also to have in case.

AMD Athlon 64 X2 6000+ Processor ADX6000CZBOX - 3.0GHz, 2MB Cache, 1000MHz (2000 MT/s), Windsor, Dual-Core, Retail, Socket AM2, Processor with Fan which is the same except the cache is higher.

Okay so If I try the New CPU first will if the board is fried burn the New CPU?

PS is a Thermatake 500 about 9 months old as is the system.
22Inch LCD video XFX 3 gigs Corsair ram no ECC
On board sound 2 500 gig Seagate HD Sata
Ethernet card D-Link
Keyboard 512 logitech wireless

I have built about 12 systems over the years from Pentium 2's to AMD this one first time I lost a MOBO Processors yes two AMD Athlon's
Runs thru a Upc Belkin

Thanks for any help

Writing on my "old MSI based Machine I doubt very much that your cat having fun on your keyboard caused this problem.

Before you brought a new graphics card did you check it in another computer, or are you just assuming that it was the graphics card.

If you have ordered a new CPU then use it with your new board.


Quote

I have built about 12 systems over the years from Pentium 2's to AMD this one first time I lost a MOBO Processors yes two AMD Athlon's

That is hard to believe.
People with that much experience ...
stop using wireless keyboards.

Sorry to *censored* in, but I don't understand this post. I use wireless keyboards on almost all systems and always have. I'm a huge Logitech fan. Why would you tell someone not to use them?

Maybe I was wrong.

Nope but no post screen and would it not beep if faulted on the fault? Grin

Can anyone tell me how to FIND out who Made my Firewire Card?

I am looking all over my Card and I just SEE were it says 2004
And directly above the YEAR it says
FRW6031 - VGoogle is your friend, use it.But what do I type in google I don't see the Name of anything on the Card??FRW6031 - VThanks is FRW6031 - V the Model?COULD be. Why do you want to know?

Quote from: BC_Programmer on November 10, 2009, 08:50:24 AM

my 750GB is NEARLY 80% full...

What does broadband have to do with it? Obviously, you're downloading a huge of amount of something? What is it? Again, read ivanoe's stated usage. There's nothing there to indicate he needs a huge HD, nothing at all.

... large number of digital and scanned photographs and videos from my camcorder.

Yes, that stuff gobbles up drive space fast. So, if ivanoe thinks he might be delving heavily into those types of computer usage, then a larger hard drive makes sense.

I recently had to do battle with a fake antivirus scanner and was able to beat it off my computer. However, right after finally removing the fake program I lost all sounds that came from an internet source. I have gone to google and tried several suggestions from the "No Internet Sound", all to no avail. The other problem, most likely secondary to the first, is that I have lost the Volume Control icon from the system tray at the bottom right of my screen. Coupled with this I am UNABLE to change the volume of the computer through my keyboard (Fn + PgUp/PgDn), so that if I want to change the volume I have to manually go through the start menu to find the volume control program.

I am currently working off of a Gateway notebook running Windows XP SP3. I am currently able to play videos and mp3 files on my computer and have sound for those files. However, I have lost 100% of the sounds from my IE 7. According to one messenger chat service, my computer does not have audio input capability. I don't know if that will help. But any help that you may give me I would greatly appreciate it.

P.S. I have tried the missing.reg trick and it does not seem to have worked.Same thing in Firefox?I'm sorry that it took me so LONG to see this reply. I don't have Firefox on the computer at all, never have. And now that I've gone back through my computer again, I have REALIZED that I not only lost the sounds on the internet but also the sounds for the computer itself. YET it will still play mp3, AVI, mp4, mkv, etc. files.

Hi, if anyone can help me I would appreciate it.

I have just built a PC using a new to me motherboard and processor plus known working components from another PC (i.e. PSU, HDD, DDR2 MEMORY, video card, DVD Drive).

This is not the first time I have built a new PC but the problems I am getting are beating me.

I have four issues:
- When using the latest version of the BIOS the PC just freezes whilst trying to update settings or just monitoring the temperatures. Older versions of the BIOS do not freeze but the manufactures web site state I need the latest version for the CPU I have
- When checking CPU temperates I get different readings from the BIOS (27C idle), overclocking utility (20C idle) and Speedfan (55C idle). NOTE I am not overclocking but rather just using the utility to check system health
- The motherboard seems to run very hot based on the BIOS reading of around 50C at idle load. The heat inside the case seems very hot COMPARED to other PC's I have with similar specs, even if I leave the case open for good ventilation
- The PC cuts out at random times. There is no BSOD it just cuts out and restarts. This happens at varied events (including installling windows and also when using it after successful install, and not necessarily whilst under load)

I have reseated the CPU / HSF, disconnected unneeded devices but cannot seem to find the cause of the problem. My gut feel is that it is either a CPU or Motherboard issue (as I know the other components were working in a previous PC) and want to return the one that is not working but do not know which one it is.

My system is made up of a Gigabyte motherboard GA-P35-DS3R, Intel Q8200, Arctic Freezer Pro HSF, Dell 450W PSU, nVidia 9600GSU, Maxstore 250GB HDD, DVD-ROM, 4GB DDR2 Memory and I am using Windows Vista Home Premium 64bit

Any suggestions?Was thermal paste properly applied during assembly ? ?

Thermal Paste Guide

How old is that Dell PSU ? ? I'm assuming it's used and i'd recommend replacing it for one powerful enough for the new system.
Remember an under-powered system will struggle and run hotter than one with PROPER power.Thanks for the reply.

Yes the thermal paste was correctly applied.

The Dell PSU is only 12-18 months old and on a previous system was powering a larger graphics card, another HDD and an additional DVD ROM without any issues.

The only main differences were an older motherboard and a Pentium 4 cpu rather than the newer quad core Q8200.

Do you think the Dell PSU is not up to the job? If so is it the new motherboard / cpu combination that could be causing the issue?Why not borrow a known good PSU of say 600W and swap it in there OVERNIGHT ? ?
You have nothing to lose and it won't cost a dime.
It will however tell you if the system is under-powered by how it runs...

I have an AMD CPU and the specs say BUS Speed 1800 MHz

Now I know that AMD CPUs do not use FRONT/Side BUSS thay have Hypertransport.

And the way the AMD CPU work is like this.
The AMD CPU has a BUS going from the CPU to the Main Memory and that is all this BUS is used for and it is CALLED Memory BUS.

And the AMD CPU also has one other BUS going from the CPU to other components and this BUS is called the Hypertransport.

So when I look at the specs on my CPU and it says BUS Speed 18000 MHz
Is this the Speed is can SUPPORT for Hypertransport or the Memory BUS?HyperTransport.Now why doen't it give me the Memory Speed that it can support in the specs??The Memory speed supported is in the MBoard INFO...Does anyone know of a web site that will show how the Hypertransport and AMD CPU and the Memory BUSS are connected??Since it's AMD's architecture, try AMD.I now understand how Chipsets work with CPUs.

On Intel Systems the CPU is directly connected to the Chipsets Nothbrige and the Northbrige is connected to the System RAM and AGP Interface and PCI Express Interface.
And the CPU can talk directly to the RAM and AGP Interface and the PCI Express Interface by going just through the Northbrige.

And the Speed Data can be sent from the CPU to the RAM is called the front Side BUS.
And everything els is connected to the Chipsets Southbrige.

And the Chipsets Northbrige and Southbrige are connected togather directly.

I get all of this.

Now when you move into the AMD CPU systems and Chipsets THINGS work a little diferant.

The AMD has one BUS connected directly to RAM and is called Memory BUS.
And then the AMD has another BUS connected to everything els called the Hypertransport BUS.

I get this to.

But is the AMD CPU Memory BUS connected to the Northbrige and is the Hypertransport BUS connected to the Southbrige???I do see that even AMDs have a Northbridge and Southbridge chip.

And I do know that the AMD CPU talks directly to the RAM and does not go through the Northbridge.

But PCI Express and AGP are the still connected to the Northbridge??

how to INSTALL and programme a second hdd in an inspiron 1721http://newmodeus.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page&id=6&chapter=0THANK you allan the address given is also the only COMPANY where you can get the caddy for this model not even dell know what the item is.T he service from that firm was also really GREAT again thank you geoff You're very welcome Geoff.

I can also recommend http://www.hardwarexpress.co.uk I have bought batteries for my APC Smart UPS 3000 & APC Smart UPS 2200 from them over the years with good pricing and excellent customer service Quote from: patio on September 18, 2008, 04:47:35 PM

I know a guy in Florida that guts his APC units and uses car batteries...he sees alot of hurricanes.
Plus his backup time for the unit is greatly extended...

none of you noticed the date?

If the particular model uses a 12V battery, it's a simple matter to use a car battery. However, you must lengthen the power cables. I have modified several of my APC's in such a manner.

none of you noticed the date?

none of you noticed the date?

Hope that helps

My hard DRIVE is making a lot of noise on start up, so I'd like to REPLACE it.

Do I need to deactivate Windows XP before I put in the new drive?
If so, how would I do it?

I only have the original Windows CD that I bought when building this machine. I'd HATE to have to buy another license because of faulty hardware.No, unless it's a very RECENT installation you're fine. Go ahead and do the install. If you do encounter a problem (and I'd be very surprised if you do) you will be given a number to call at MS. Just MAKE the call, explain the situation, and you'll be given a new activation code.Quote from: Allan on September 30, 2009, 12:56:08 PM

No, unless it's a very recent installation you're fine. Go ahead and do the install. If you do encounter a problem (and I'd be very surprised if you do) you will be given a number to call at MS. Just make the call, explain the situation, and you'll be given a new activation code.

Hi, I have an issue I can use some assistance with... I know this is lengthy, but just trying to provide all information...

A couple days ago, I shut my computer (~ 3 year old Sony Vaio VGN-AW125J, Windows XP SP2) down and soon after tried to restart. The power light flashed a couple times then went dark. No fan or anything else started up.

I left the (main) battery in, but unplugged, and retried it the next day. It started fine... However the date/time were reset to Dec 31, 2007.

Once powered up, I experienced no issues with random restarts or shutting down.

I closed the top today (standby), went to open it back up, and it wouldn't start again (same indication as before).

I let it sit for a while and retried starting, once again it started up and once again the date/time had to be reset...

I believe the issue has something to do with the CMOS battery, once it gathers ENOUGH of a static charge with the power off, it is able to support a powering up.

Does this train of thought make sense? Are there any other potential issues that may be causing this? I do not think that it is the motherboard since it has restarted after a period of rest.

I am hesitant to try to restart to see if the BIOS time is reset as well, I am assuming it is...

Thank you for your thoughts,
BrettYes, it's the CMOS battery. Resetting of date after power off is a clear indication. CMOS battery is what keeps the clock going.
All desktops use CR-2032 as do many laptops. Most newer laptops have an access port for this battery.

Your computer: http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/model-home.pl?mdl=VGNAW125J&LOC=3
Your manual: http://www.docs.sony.com/release/VGNAW100series.pdf

I scanned all 220 pgs, useless!!

If this one is anything like yours, big job!!!
http://www.insidemylaptop.com/how-take-apart-sony-vaio-vgn-sz-series-laptop/


More Info:
CMOS battery is a special, which is likely why it failed in 3 years.
http://microdream.co.uk/sony-vaio-vgn-aw-series-cmos-battery.html
Sony Vaio VGN-AW Series CMOS Battery

Thank you Computer Commando! Will let you know how it goes...I do not like these Sony Vaio Laptops. Very little is easily user serviceable. At least once a week, someone comes here with a problem similar to yours, on some, removing the hard drive, entails dissassembly of the laptop. Reminds me of some cars where you had to pull the engine to change a spark plug.Quote from: Computer_Commando on July 16, 2011, 09:30:18 PM

Reminds me of some cars where you had to pull the engine to change a spark plug.

I agree. I've been turning wrenches for almost 40 years and would love to see a national holiday where all mechanics get to take out their frustration toward the engineers that design this stuff.

And after reading the info in your link I can see computer engineers are no more forgiving for the service tech than automotive engineers!
Good luck brettric

This post is strange, but true and your help WOULD be very appreciated. I purchased my computer from my former boss. The computer belonged to her daughter, so she had administrator control and was networked. I had thought that I had changed all the PASSWORDS, but obviously not as she hacked my computer. While trying to regain control I ended up with a rootsystem hal.dll message. These are my questions.
--Is there anyway to just install the hal.dll without reinstalling windows?
--If I copy my hard drive and then reinstall Windows - will any of the information that shows her intrusion into my computer be saved - like search for her name, logs, altered programs, etc. Is any of this information on the hard drive.
--When I reinstall will the network and Administrator stay the same? If they stay the same, how do I regain control. When she had control I couldn't download anything or do anything related to Administrator control. She even eliminated the GUEST Icon when I went to user accounts.
--After Windows reinstall I assume I can't do a restore to retrieve information?

Many thanks. Quote from: ptownRandy on September 30, 2009, 10:52:59 AM

...
1--Is there anyway to just install the hal.dll without reinstalling windows?
2--If I copy my hard drive and then reinstall Windows - will any of the information that shows her intrusion into my computer be saved - like search for her name, logs, altered programs, etc. Is any of this information on the hard drive.
3--When I reinstall will the network and Administrator stay the same? If they stay the same, how do I regain control. When she had control I couldn't download anything or do anything related to Administrator control. She even eliminated the Guest Icon when I went to user accounts.
4--After Windows reinstall I assume I can't do a restore to retrieve information?
...

Hello CH,

I have a Dell Inspiron D620 Laptop that is not POSTing. At boot, the Dell splash / loading screen appears for a split second, and loads about 1/8 of the bar before displaying a black screen with white text:


Code: [Select]Memory read/write failure at [ADDRESS]. read [ADDRESS] expecting [ADDRESS].
To resolve this ISSUE, try reseating the memory.
*The address is always the same, I believe. If its relevant I could get the specific address.

• I have no access to BIOS, or to boot from CD.
• I have TRIED booting without the hard DRIVE installed.
• I have tried reseating the RAM.
• I have tried booting with a different RAM module pulled from a working laptop.

I'd LIKE to replace the CMOS/RTC battery in my Compaq Presario F572US NOTEBOOK PC. I'm having some difficulty finding sources that list my specific MODEL, which is sometimes generally referred to as Presario F500. I found this battery on ebay which looks identical to mine but the ebay listing only mentions a few models, not including mine. But, since many of these laptop batteries simply contain the common CR2032 battery, I'm thinking this should work in my computer. Any comments appreciated.

ebay listing: http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-NEW-CMOS-RTC-BATTERY-HP-Compaq-NC6110-NC6120-/140569978029?pt=Laptop_Batteries&hash=item20ba9fa4adQuote from: soybean on July 17, 2011, 03:13:29 PM

...But, since many of these laptop batteries simply contain the common CR2032 battery,...

It appears to be shrink-tubing around a coin cell.

You'll have to open your notebook to see what's actually there.

If that's all it is, you can make one from a CR-2032 socket & a battery that you know is good.

1. What is a coin cell?
2. Where can I get a CR-2032 socket?
3. Would I be able to use tape with the socket you're talking about?
4. And then, how do I get it connected to the wiring with the little connector?

1. A battery that resembles a coin. Example: CR-2032
2. Radio Shack. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3060977
3. Tape the whole thing up so it won't short, then stick it in place.
4. Cut the wire & connector off the old one. Solder the wires to the new one. +(Red) is the top, -(Blk) is the bottom

You may also want to hit your local PC repair shop...i got a dead MBoard last time i needed to jury ric a machine and de-soldered the CR 2032 socket off the board.

No i de-spldered the CMOS battery holder...

A friend of mine built this for me to game on a few years ago.Specs are as follows:
Motherboard: Gigabyte Technology Co., Ltd., GA-770TA-UD3
BIOS: Award Modular BIOS v6.00PG
Processor: AMD Phenom(tm) II X4 955 Processor (4 CPUS) (quadcore), ~3.2 GHz
Memory: 8 GB RAM

Display Device: ATI Radeon HD 5700 Series
Chip Type: ATI display adapter (0x68BE)
DAC Type: Internal DAC (400 MHz)
Approx. Total Memory: 753 mb

Power is 600 watts, It has 1 CD-RW/DVD drive. , as well as a floppy disk drive. Windows 7 Professional 64-bit

.

It has begun rebooting itself at random times, . The way it reboots is that the screen will blink out and the computer will simply reboot. Sometimes a blue error screen comes up, but I don't know what it means. It does not seem to be overheating since the computer is not hot and I can get right back into whatever I was doing and may not have another reboot for a while. It is about two years old.
Any idea whats wrongSounds like the power supply, although a Hardware General Protection Fault can also cause a reboot. I'd say try a different power supply after looking in system logs to see if there are any hardware complaints. Sometimes GPF's leave info in the system events log under manage computer, other times they happen so QUICKLY that the system isnt able to record info about them.Hi Redbird;

You say that sometimes a bluescreen is visible? it is possible that it is not sticking on these SCREENS due to it being set to automatically restart.

Follow this guide http://pcsupport.about.com/od/windows7/ht/automatic-restart-windows-7.htm

And then next time it bluescreens; write down the error CODE you receive.
The code should be near the bottom and look something like this: 0X0000007E (0x00000000, 0x00000000, 0x000000000, 0x00000000) (and a driver name if it is specified, usually a .sys, .dll, .ini file)

As well as the text string at the top, which will be in all capitals and have _ where the spaces should be; eg:
DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL

After getting those details we will be able to provide a more in DEPTH analysis

Kurtis

well i saw another topic about super glue and it reminded me of the *censored* of a time i was having FINDING SCREWS for my OLD 120mm case fan. and i just wondered if heavy duty super glue would keep the fan in PLACE?

The issue is slightly different as there is NO electrical interference issue in your case BUT as in the other case again it needs to be stated that you may NOT ever be able to remove it again should it become necessary. truenorthI did it with a hot glue gun. I t can be removed later. I used 4 small nylon wire ties on one of my fans but a small dab of silicone sealer at each corner should work and be relatively easy to remove. Of course you'll need to allow for some drying time with silicone.
sorry about the late reply, removal wont be an issue with me, if any issues arise with it, there's nothing stopping me DISCONNECTING it.