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Does anyone know how to do this. The printer is a Canon MX850 with ethernet port but canon TELL me that the print has no IP address assigned to it. So hopw do you go about to do this assign a IP address. Would like to connect it to a network of two computers through a wireless router.Have you read the documentation that come with the printer?--- Public Apology ---
The remarks I posted here were INAPPROPRIATE and do not represent the forum.
What I wrote was stupid and of no value.
Thee is no excuse for what I posted in response to a new visitor. I do regret any harm or ill-will I have caused to others, including the visitor I rudely insulted.
I Herby Apologize to all.
- Geek-9pm

Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 20, 2009, 12:23:47 AM

Did you read the documentation at all?
Doodit not come wid out no CD?
- You know dat shiny flat round thing wid du hole in du middle.


Does that sound rude?

OK I will put it another way.

We do not help people with stolen merchandise.

This is my first post so let me start with the info about my PC and external drive enclosure.

PC:
Compaq
windows XP MEDIA center addition 2005
3500+ AMD 64 Processor
1.0 GB memory
200GB HDD
Integrated ATI Radeon xpress 200
PCI express slot

Enclosure:
Coolmax HD-360-U2

Old HDD:
DeskStar IBM-DTLA-305020 20 GB (It has windows ME)


I am trying to get files off my old hard drive. The computer it was in had a power failure, so I took the HDD out and SAVED it. I put the drive in the coolmax enclosure that I bought, but when I plug it in via the USB port my PC downloaded some drivers
like it always does when I put new things in a USB port. I then went to look for the drive in My Computer and it was no where to be found. I can Find it in the Device Management section of the Computer management window though. I tried UPDATING the driver but I still couldn't find it. When I look in the properties section of the drive it says "This device is working properly." When I populate the volume I get

Disk: Disk 5
Type: Basic
Status: Online
Partition Style: Master Boot Record
Capacity: 19619 MB
Unallocated space: 16MB
Reserved space: 0 MB

Side note:
I was able to access the Drive when I connected it internally, but I couldn't get any of my USB or DVD R Drives to work with it to get the files off.

Create a new folder on you new drive. Or, if you prefer, create a new partition.
For now, let's go with the new folder. You may need to unplug other devices to make the system more stable. The happens. Un plug completely the CD-ROM. In fact, put the drive on that cable, if it is that type of drive.
Now you should be able to open the drive with Windows Explorer and just copy files to the new drive. Avoid using move, The are issues with moving lots of files between two drives and we don;t want that hassle now.
If you run into problems, try moving smaller hunks. Patio said there is a 2GB limit on the copy in Windows Explorer.Or something to that effect. Most of the stuff you want is the the My Documents section of the USER you named on the old machine. Look in Documents and settings. Maybe called James' Documents.

IME old hard drives put a burden of the power supply and the IDE interface. I am not sure why, but I just unplug drives that are not needed during the copy process.
When you are done with the copy, power down, you knew that, and put things back the way they were. Power up and you can start making copies of you old stuff to a DVD-R. Never use DVD-RW. Unless it is photos of you mother-in-law. (Just joking. Ha Ha)

Slave Drive Tutorial

How does it show up in Disk Management ?
Right clik My Computer...select Manage then Disk Management....
Right clik the drive ...select Properties and report back with your findings.

I've done memtest. Will look at the SHORTING with case thing tomorrow. Can someone recommend some other software to use to MONITOR the cpu temp?Quote from: maxcheese3 on August 01, 2011, 08:34:42 PM

Can someone recommend some other software to use to monitor the cpu temp?

Try this: http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

now an update...its not the drivers so im back to square 1 again...

coonsandersOf all the problems Ive had with peripheral items the, HP printer, scanner, all-in-one and the list goes on, has been MOSTLY responsible for my education in their internal workings.

I'm glad you have had a SESSION where the streaking had DISAPPEARED.

However if the windows drivers worked then, maybe you can just USE them all the time and get more reliability from it.
The problems probably came with a microsoft automatic update download, that after it was installed, changed to compatability of the HP. hi

now a new update i still have the blue streaks....so im back to square one

coonYou may go wheres you buy this scanner. They unlocked your scanner.This is certainly one curly problem coonsanders.

It works it doesnt work.

I'm certainly out of ideas.

Maybe manish07 is right, they might be able to do something for you.
Seeing you've had a session without blue streaks it suggests that the drivers are the issue and its nothing mechanical or electrical, nor is there a problem with the internal workings of the scanner, such as mirror alignments or the diffusers or lenses.

Quote from: coonsanders on April 12, 2009, 10:20:16 AM

tell u the whole story..ok..i had 2 hp products installed my computer the hp all-in-one 4215 printer and the hp 3670 scanjet scanner.ok ...the printer needed more black ink because the scanned (with the printer)i SAW blue streaks in the scanned photo.these blue streaks are an indication of needing an ink refill.
ok i uninstalled the printer to fix the problem and just use the scanner as it uses no ink.
i just recently noticed the scanner too is leaving these blue streaks as did the printer
did.i contacted hp tech and the forums too.hp tech said it was locked up thats the reason for the blue streaks.
coonsanders

Hi everyone,
I have a pretty new Sony VAIO laptop (I BOUGHT it in May). Just STARTING yesterday, it's been making weird noises, which seem to come from the bottom of the computer (if I put my hand UNDERNEATH I can feel slight vibrations). The sound goes on and off--it would go on for a couple seconds or up to a few minutes, then stop for a little bit, and begin again. The sound itself...well how do I describe it. It's like this whirring, like a FAN? Do you suppose the fan is broken (only my guess, I don't know much about computer issues)? What should I do?

Thanks for any help!Sony VAIO lapto ?
Run, don't walk to the dealer that sold it yo you.
Tell them you understood the warranty was for one year.

When I turn on the computer it just shows the Intel Pentium 4 logo on the screen. Does not start the boot up process for at least 10 minutes or longer. When it finally finishes, it will usually just crash after some use.Need...more...info...gasp

Operating system / antivirus & antispyware protection / service packs installed / when did it start happening / did it ever work right / installed any new SOFTWARE?

Alan <>< My operating system is XP service pack 3, AGV Antivirus.
The computer is about 41/2 years old and I started getting this type of problems, that I could no longer live with. I decided to FORMAT C: drive and reinstall XP. I am still having the same type of problems. My thinking is that since it never gets as FAR as recognising any of the hardware that it may be a bad bios chip or even a problem before that. I don't really understand the sequence of EVENTS that hapens when you start the computer.More info on what led up to this issue...
If you formatted and re-installed i'm guessing it's a hardware issue...

I was asked to connect two COMPUTERS to one printer, by way of a multi-port hub. Can this be done? Both computers run Vista and have plenty of memory...help?Yes. both computers must connect to the hub. One PC will share the printer with the other. Run the network Wizard on both computers. Each computer SHALL have a unique name. Both must have networking INSTALLED and have file and printer sharing turned on. Be PATIENT. The first time Windows is slow to set up the network. Once the network is up, activate sharing on the printer. Printer properties. On the other MACHINE install a new network printer.
Don't forget to reset the computer if you are told to do so.
Are you by any chance meaning a USB hub?

Ok I need some help. My computer shuts off by itself after maybe 60 seconds.

At first it came on something happened and a blue screen came on and computer shut off. I turned it back on but it wouldn’t go past the blue screen so I was going to reinstall the os, now the computer will come on but only stay on for maybe a minute sometimes it will start through the install portion of putting os back on and then it shuts off.

I have tried a different power supply, put different ram in, tried a different hard drive but still it shuts off after very short time.

Any suggestions on what I can do or what may be wrong. I cannot afford to pay anyone to fix it. I am thinking maybe the motherboard or processor may be bad but don’t know how to test. I cannot afford another motherboard or processor so I hope that isn’t the problem.

I could really use some advice.
Can you post what the BSOD errors are?
Are there any beeps when you start the computer?
If there are, can you count them?
Can you check that the RAM is properly seated?
Is there a lot of dust around the CPU cooling fan and heatsink?
Is the heatsink making good connection to the CPU?I built this computer myself from a barebones kit from Tiger DIRECT about a year ago. It has an Intel processor in it. When I turn it on it beeps once. I have removed the ram and tried a different one and got the same issue so I put the original one back and did make sure it was seated properly. It was very dusty inside and I have tried to clean as much dust as possible out of it. Before I blew out the dust it would come on and then I got the blue screen, after blowing out alot of the dust now it shuts off before it ever gets to that point.
I haven't tried taking the heatsink fan off and putting it back. I didn't think this would help. I don't have any sort of canned air to clean it out, I just blew inside with my mouth and used a paper towel to wipe off some of the dust. I used no liquids inside. I am just frustrated and would love to have my computer back.
If the light comes on the motherboard does that MEAN that the power supply and motherboard should be ok?Bench the motherboard [take it out of the case and set it on a non-conductive surface]. Strip the system of EVERYTHING but the motherboard / video / RAM. Boot the system. Do you POST? If so, start adding one component at a time, starting with the keyboard, mouse, etc., until the system fails. USUALLY the last component installed is the culprit...though not always.

Alan <><

New (not expensive) ACER Aspire 6530 LAPTOP
Vista sp1
AMD x2-dual core ql-62 2gz
4gb ram
64 bit OS
ati radeon HD 3200

I'm setting up a new laptop with an ati tv wonder 600 usb tv tuner.. all works fine except the video playback is choppy. I have TESTED it on my home pc (XP) and it works just fine. I have UPDATED windows and all the drivers. So now all i can hope is that their is a simple solution that i am overlooking.

Thanks,
niplub

I just got a new comp from Systemax which came with a Hitachi 1TB 3Gb/s Sata II HD.
I have noticed the HD MAKES seeking noises and that sometimes a webpage will not finish loading until
I hear another noise coming from the HD. ALMOST like it was stuck and once it got UNSTUCK the PAGE was able to finish loading.
I have checked to make sure I don't have a virus or trojan infection and I am fine.
I don't want it to sound like the noise coming from the HD is a "CLICK of death" or a load grinding because its not its just a sound that sounds like the platter might not be seeking smoothly.

Anybody have any ideas how I can make sure that this is actually a defect?

MIf its the HDD contact the vendor for a replacment asap.Systemax ?
Start right now to send it back!
This is NOT a joke!

I THOUGHT ATX was an industry standard. Why is it that out of about a dozen holes that are marked as being for ATX in my case (Thermaltake ELEMENT G) only 5 holes in the motherboard line up with the standoffs in the case? Is this enough to hold the board securely?even 4 screws can hold your mboard just dont let your mobo touches the metal chasis.. i can say bad things will happen if it does.
just balance the division of screw..Thankage Rick! Turns out when I took my goggles off I could see one more that lined up. So I have 6 total holding the board in place.More than enough. The rest of the holes are to make sure it aligns with any BOX you may use.Make sure you use the MBoard standoffs...Do they still supply standoffs? I can't remember that they do. I keep a bunch of them around but I've had them for years.

Alan <>< ASUS and Gigabyte still do...last 2 boards i used for builds...
Everyone else has gotten cheap and stopped including them.

Kinda stupid SINCE they're PRETTY important and someone doing his 1st build not knowing any better will fry a MBoard/CPU combo....


I didn't get any standoffs with the motherboard but Thermaltake kindly included more than enough with the case (Element G).

bear in mind that the moment windows boots it replaces all in memory BIOS interrupts with 32-bit protected mode versions; the BIOS nowadays is only used to get past the POST.

describe the freezing- any particular point where it freezes? Detecting the drives, counting RAM, etc.Quote from: BC_Programmer on April 08, 2009, 02:48:43 AM

bear in mind that the moment windows boots it replaces all in memory BIOS interrupts with 32-bit protected mode versions; the BIOS nowadays is only used to get past the POST.

describe the freezing- any particular point where it freezes? Detecting the drives, counting RAM, etc.

I shall check if the chip is replaceable, many thanks for the hint.

I think you may have a faulty motherboard.

Upon restart, the E drive icon is VISIBLE in My COMPUTER, and is an ACTIVE drive (used for BACKUP).

After several minutes to an hour, the E drive vanishes, and cannot be found. Only a restart will make it re-appear. Any suggestions? Thanx!What is E drive? Partition, another hard drive, optical drive.....?The drive is an operating hard drive, contains only files (back up files from C drive). The drive a approx 2 yrs old. OS is XP with all current updates. Thank you!LET's start with this - Boot to the Recovery Console and run chkdsk e: /r

I recently bought an old motherboard for 5 bucks, and I'm working on building my first computer. The motherboard comes from an old Dell Dimension 4400, and I'm not sure on the power supply, besides that it is a Dell power supply. The power supply is 24-pin, and the motherboard is 20-pin. UNFORTUNATELY, the power supply connector is not one of the new breakaway 20+4-pins. I can still MAKE it fit however by just letting the extra four pins hang off the end. I get a little green LED on the mobo, but no response when I push the power button.

I know the motherboard works because I tested it with the psu from my PC (20-pin), and it worked fine. I researched the wiring for ATX power supplies, and the colors all seem to match up with what I would expect. Is there a good way to test if the power supply is functional or not? I was wondering if it was possible that the psu could somehow sense that the extra four pins were not connected, and would not power up for that reason. Could that be the case?I can't guarantee that this would solve the problem but I'd give it a try: 24 Pin to 20 Pin ATX Converter - Adapter

Quote from: jhuns on November 02, 2009, 10:48:13 AM

1. I can still make it fit however by just letting the extra four pins hang off the end. I get a little green LED on the mobo, but no response when I push the power button.
2. I was wondering if it was possible that the psu could somehow sense that the extra four pins were not connected, and would not power up for that reason. Could that be the case?

1. It's not plugged in all the way. Get the adapter.

I wouldn't ruin a good power supply doing that.

BTW, did you remember to plug in the separate 4-pin power connector? Not the 4 extra for the 20, the other one that plugs into a separate connector on the mobo.

Is there a good way to test if the power supply is functional or not?

1. Is it possible that it is simply a problem with the "power on" signal coming from the power button on the front?
2. Is there any way to manually turn the PSU on besides the button on the front of my case?
3. And what does the green light mean?
4. Could it be possible that it lights up the green light, but the PSU is no good?

Every single 24-pin power plug I've ever seen is just a 20-ping connector with another, extra 4 pin connector attached to one side. this is designed so that you can remove the 4-pin connection and the remaining connector is a appropriate 20-pin plug.

Every single 24-pin power plug I've ever seen is just a 20-ping connector with another, extra 4 pin connector attached to one side. this is designed so that you can remove the 4-pin connection and the remaining connector is a appropriate 20-pin plug.

Every single 24-pin power plug I've ever seen is just a 20-ping connector with another, extra 4 pin connector attached to one side. this is designed so that you can remove the 4-pin connection and the remaining connector is a appropriate 20-pin plug.

Disconnect it from motherboard and test it.
http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/ATX_Pinout

I just added a 9800GTX+ into my rig for 9800GTX+ x2 SLI
but i dont see an increase at all in FPS
I run a NVIDIA nforce 590 SLI mobo
Athlon 64 x2 4800+ @2.5ghz
OCZ Fatal1ty 800 4gigs (2x2gig)
Crosair 550W PSU (SLI ready)
500gig seagate HD
and two EVGA 9800GTX+
btw yes i turned SLI on in the nVidia control panel
and i think my cpu is bottle-capping the fps
but i ordered an Athlon 64 x2 7850 2.8ghz but im RMAing it....DOA The 550W PSU may be "SLI ready" but it may not be enough power for the two cards. Check the manufactures website to see if you need more power. If not then your power supply may not be able to handle the full load of the cards because it has a problem or is just aging. Most likely the former.my powersupply has plenty power and the computer alerts you if u have unsuficient powerfound other rigs using more powerful GPUs in SLI with way more components then mine lol
im LEANING towards the CPU bottle-neckYou should still see some increase in fps. Try something. Run a game at the lowest settings with one card and then use sli and see if the frame rate goes up. If you leave EVERYTHING at the lowest settings they the bottle neck should not make a difference. If you see an increase then you have a bottle neck. If you do not, then it is something else. Maby the second card. Have you tested the second card by itself?That PSU will have no problem with those cards. What games are you using to test?yes ive tested the card by itself and it works just like the other card
im using the world in conflict benchmark
but i want to play games like crysis on atleast medium with 30+ framerateQuote from: lolpizowned on November 05, 2009, 02:33:56 PM

yes ive tested the card by itself and it works just like the other card
im using the world in conflict benchmark
but i want to play games like crysis on atleast medium with 30+ framerate

At one point in time I knew about these things, but now it seems I'm lost. I have a compaq presario sr5110nx. Its has a pci slotted nvidia geforce 6150se nforce 430 card in it (which is what it came with). Im looking for a good, inexpensive, compatible video card and I cant seem to figure out what will WORK and what won't. I have access to a RADEON hd2400 pro which I think is an upgrade, but im not entirely sure, and even if it is will it work for my system? any ideas, thoughts, or helpful sites would be great. ThanksAny pci card you want should be fine.Quote

Its has a pci slotted nvidia geforce 6150se nforce 430 card in it (which is what it came with).

Hi all, hoping someone here can help me before I go raving MAD!

I recently came into possession of an E-system 3090 UK laptop. The battery is completely dead (i.e. it won't charge) due, I think, a very long period of non-use.

Trying to find a replacement is driving me nuts as the original no longer seems to be available. I'm looking for a suitable replacement, but don't know enough about the topic to be sure that the one I buy is compatible.

Battery details are as follows:

Battery Pack: L51-4S2000-S1P

Rating: 14.4v and 2000 mAh

Re-chargeable Li-Ion

Cell made by: Panasonic

Made by Simplon

Assembled in China

Can anyone help me out with this one please?

Cheers! Where have you LOOKED for a replacement? SORRY, but I'm not FAMILIAR with sources in the UK. Try a Google search on E-system 3090 UK laptop battery replacement and look for a source.Hi soybean and thanks for the reply!

Trust me, I've Googled until my fingertips are red raw! I can find plenty of sources for chargers that are compatible with the SUBJECT battery, but no suppliers for the battery itself.

What I need, I think, is another battery that is compatible...and this is where I'm coming unstuck.

I know that any replacement has to be the same voltage as the original (i.e. 14.4v); I also know - I think - that the amps doesn't have to be the same (i.e. currently at 2000mAh).

What I need is someone to say: "Battery X is totally compatible with that laptop".

Any other suggestions?

Cheers!

Can anyone explain what is the difference b/w laptop processor and desktop processor?
If same, Can we interchange the processors ?

No, you can't interchange them. Laptop processors, like other laptop components, are made smaller to fit in a small computer. Quote from: soybean on November 02, 2009, 08:36:49 AM

No, you can't interchange them. Laptop processors, like other laptop components, are made smaller to fit in a small computer.

laptop CPUs are generally soldered in, and do not come with the silver square

According to this, we can't change the processor in cpu. I don't no how far it is true...
Then how can i replace it with core i7 extreme processor.....
I wanna do it . any other solutions if the above is true....

I'd like someone to find an example of a CPU that was made for both a desktop and laptop ...

According to this, we can't change the processor in cpu. I don't no how far it is true...
Then how can i replace it with core i7 extreme processor.....
I wanna do it . any other solutions if the above is true....

That was my point and Thanx CC...
They ran too hot for laptops and the experiment did not last long.

The HP Pavilion ZD7000
MicroprocessorIntel Pentium 4 Processor 2.8GHz, 533MHz
Memory512MB DDR SDRAM (2 x 256MB) at 333MHz
Dimensions40 cm (15.67 inches) L x 28 cm (10.94 inches) (W) x 4 cm (1.67 inches) Front H x 5 cm (1.85 inches) Rear H
Weight9.3 lbs
Power
* 120W AC adapter
* 12-Cell Litium-Ion battery

i have a laptop dell inspiron with win xp. when i connect the USB stick the system stops RESPONDING. if i PULL FREE the stick THESYSTEM reboots.
thanks for help!You are going to have to provide more information for us.

Hi guys

I am trying to install the above printer onto my works computer. I have Windows XP Professional VERSION 2002 Service Pack 3. The printer was purchased in 2006. I have the installation CD, but come unstuck at the same point every TIME: the installation process STOPS because "The printer could not be detected. Recheck the connection". I have tried all the USB ports ont he computer, with the same result. I have another photocopier/printer connected via a USB cable to my computer, so I know at least this USB prot works, but it still won't install the Canon. I have tried the Windows Printer Install, but it doesn't show this printer in its LIST. This printer has WORKED previously on another computer in the office, and I have tried 3 different USB cables. Any ideas gratefully received!!Since it worked previously on another computer in the office, can you install it on another computer, even if only for testing?

Have you tried downloading the latest driver/software for it from Canon's website and using that instead of the CD that came with the printer?

I received an used computer
When I push the "on" button the machine lights up in the tower but nothing happens in the monitor or the keyboard. It is a desktop machine,like 3 years old.
What can I do to check what's WRONG with this machine.First thing i'd do is remove all power and open the case...
There may not even be a hard drive in there...Quote from: PATIO on November 01, 2009, 09:35:09 AM

First thing i'd do is remove all power and open the case...
There may not even be a hard drive in there...

Need more information.

Is there a way to get photos from a slideshow on a cd, to print? Or to just get the photos from the slideshow into an other folder?It would seem to me that a video capture software program ought to be able to accomplish that function. What software program are you USING to view the slide show? Do you have the ability to PAUSE the slide show at selected pictures? If so a SCREEN capture program (many free ones) could also do that.Once captured you should be able to put it anywhere you want and do what ever you want with it.truenorthHow is the slideshow operated? is it a powerpoint document? or something a bit more sophisticated? It is possible there is simply a folder on the CD containing all the photos. Put it into your pc and open the cd without trippping the autorun by right clicking it in my computer and selecting open. see if there are any folders which contain the photos you are looking for. Don't worry abut losing any of the data, a CD is unchangeable so none of the data can be TAKEN off and lost, only copied.Great answer...and a simple sokution...Thanks guys! I did try opening the folders before autoplay, but it did not show any photos in any folders. But i did get it right with the print screen option. It's not the same quality but alteast I got the photos copied to have them printed. Thanks so much for the help

Just put my external harddrive inside of my chassi, but b4 I start the pc, I'd like to know if this is safe?

Wow, that's some quality workmanship. I'm glad you put so much time into the project. What about heat dissipation? Why not just leave it external?Safe i do not know--innovative though. Why did you want to TAKE an external and make it an internal? Usually the desire is to go the other way. What is the material being used? Are they twist ties? Often twist ties have a metal core and that could represent a problem if they come loose or break and a metal core shorts an adjacent component.truenorth1. I wanted to put the external inside of the pc, because one of my OS's is installed on it (UBUNTU) and it is necessary to bring the external anywhere I go with my pc to be able to start it. just felt easier to have it inside of the pc instead.

2. I'd never dream of putting metal inside my pc. The wire is just thread. Ad that's my consern. I don't think it'll snap, but I'm afraid that it will be IGNITED?WELL i guess time will tell. However GIVEN your obvious concern i am puzzled how that kind of "fix' will enhance your objectives as stated = "Welcome to Felectronix!

Do you have a computer issue?
Do you need help with that issue?
Then you are in the right place!"
which is the link you have included in your CH membership.truenorthQuote from: truenorth on September 13, 2011, 12:07:58 PM

Well i guess time will tell. However given your obvious concern i am puzzled how that kind of "fix' will enhance your objectives as stated = "Welcome to Felectronix!

Do you have a computer issue?
Do you need help with that issue?
Then you are in the right place!"
which is the link you have included in your CH membership.truenorth

Many of the forums suggests that optimal TEMPERATURE for CPU should be below 50C, some even SUGGEST between 20C-30C.

But few of my tech friends said that P4 processors are generally hotter and temperature between 60C-80C are considered normal.

I have an P4 3.1GHz processor and the idle CPU temperature is around 60C, system temperature around 45C.

Is that normal or high?

Btw I stay in Malaysia where the room temperature is 28-30C on average without air-conditioner.Quote from: Michael on September 11, 2011, 04:47:12 AM

Many of the forums suggests that optimal temperature for CPU should be below 50C, some even suggest between 20C-30C.

But few of my tech friends said that P4 processors are generally hotter and temperature between 60C-80C are considered normal.

I have an P4 3.1GHz processor and the idle CPU temperature is around 60C, system temperature around 45C.

Is that normal or high?

Btw I stay in Malaysia where the room temperature is 28-30C on average without air-conditioner.

My screen just went all BLACK, can't see no icons no nothing. Before this happened avast went up and had shut off my desktop and safe browser from avast keeps popping up not letting me GET to my desktop. Then I shut it off, then it went to the boot screen then I chose safe mode then opted a system restore. When that was done whenever I LOG onto my account I'd see all black screen. What should I do? I most definitely need help. PLEASE help me. I'd really need my computer up and working. Boot back to safemode and disable Avast including the live protection...
Re-boot to see if Avast is the culprit.

I'm moving this to Hardware where you may get better responses.Quote from: jzown on September 15, 2011, 08:30:17 AM

My screen just went all black, can't see no icons no nothing. Before this happened avast went up and had shut off my desktop and safe browser from avast keeps popping up not letting me get to my desktop. Then I shut it off, then it went to the boot screen then I chose safe mode then opted a system restore. When that was done whenever I log onto my account I'd see all black screen. What should I do? I most definitely need help. Please help me. I'd really need my computer up and working.

I'm trying to install Windows 7 on a FRIEND's PC, but when I get to the part where it asks me where I want to intall it, it lists three partitions. One is approximately 1/3 of the entire HD capacity and says it can't be used because it was reserved by the manufacturer (OEM). The second one is only 47GB and is available, and the last one is not formated and won't allow me to use it. I know when I used to install XP it would give me the option to delete partitions and start over from scratch. Is there a WAY to do that with Windows 7?If you really want to DUMP it you can create a boot disk or bootable CD with delpart and it will wipe ALL partitions no matter what type. There is no protection using delpart, no blocks! I created a Bootable CD with Delpart on it for this very purpose about 6 years ago. Created a bootable floppy and added delpart to it and then used Easy CD Creator 5 to copy the image of the Floppy Disk to CD, so the CD boots and acts like a Read-Only Floppy with Delpart fully functional.

Also, another method you can try is create an Ubuntu CD and perform a partial install, where you go thru the process of deleting existing partitions, and then bail out at that point in which partitions have been dumped. Then try to install Windows 7 and the drive should appear partitionless!

Make sure you are installing via CD or DVD Rom and not off of the restore partition for Windows 7. If you blow away your restore partition its gone and you'd be HURTING!I ended up having to install WinXP first, which allowed me to remove the partitions since I was able to boot from the CD. For some reason my Win7 disc wasn't booting from the disc. After finishing that install, I was able to install Win7 over it.

My sister just got two systems,one laptop and the other desktop.So,she wants me to configure this two system for her
what are the procedures?EXACTLY what is it you want to do? You need to explain in DETAIL what you mean by "configure the systems".Its a new laptop and i want to install all the softwares to make the machine work perfectly.What software do you want to install? Installing software is usually as simple as double-clicking the icon on the installer.I'm still not 100% SURE I UNDERSTAND, but let me give it a shot:

1) You need to download and install a good anti virus app (assuming one wasn't included with the system).

2) You should also install MalwareBytes and / or Super AntiSpyware (free version) and run scans on a regular basis.

3) I also suggest SpywareBlaster. Definitions should be updated weekly on the free version.

4) In my opinion, disc imaging software is a must for EVERYONE who has access to a second hard driver (internal or external). If you want more on this let me know.

If this isn't what you are looking for or if you want more input please let us know.

A WEEK ago there was weird noise ( like "FFFFFFF" buring sound) coming from near the screen (compuer power button near the connection from display to motherboard) and then it suddenly started blinking and then the screen went black (you can still see the items if you really look well )

I recently replaced my screen inverter but didnt solved the problem...I guess the only other thing it could be is the light bulb... but shouldnt it be the connection between the screen and the motherboard since it is making that weird sound from there? Can it still be the light bulb? I am afraid of ordering a new display when that is not the problem!Is your system an all-in-one system?Its a Dell 1520 LaptopQuote from: liquidzell on September 11, 2011, 10:33:36 AM

the screen went black (you can still see the items if you really look well )

So I recently got a NEW psu and the connection I got for the motherboard are the 20 prong with the detached 4 square prong (p4) connector. Which is GREAT, this is what my motherboard needs. The issue I have is the P4 connector is "keyed" different then my motherboard connection. There both squared, 4 prong, its just there keyed different.

Help! The newer power supplies are keyed for the 8 pin connectors. One of them will be the original 4 pin P4 connector, the other wont fit. Also if it is a FAIRLY decent PSU it will have 6 or 8 pin connectors for your graphics card too. the 2-+4 pin connector will only fit into the motherboard power connection.

I have a old tower that I updated with a gigabyte ga-880gm-ud2h board, amd 4 CORE processor, and a 4 GIG stick of memory. It has a dvd reader writer with nero8 software. 700 watt power supply. I am using the onboard video with the HDMI hooked up to a hannspree hf257. The PROBLEM started when I tryed to watch a dvd last night. It was working well nice picture when it started putting green digital garbage on the top and bottom of the screen. Then the video froze but the audio keep going. I stopped the movie and restarted it and the same thing after a while. Do you think it is filling up the on board buffer? Maybe need a video card? Can you try the disk on a DIFFERENT computer? Perhaps a friend will let you trouble shoot with his system.Good idea I have a lap top I will try it in. Or try a different DVD. I've seen bad DVDs do stuff like that before (green squares, freezing picture with audio)

I have an HP Pavilion with windows vista. Very recently it restarted itself and upon rebooting it stopped sending a signal to the monitor. I verified that the monitor is still working with a separate computer. I can still turn the computer on, but it doesn't sound as if it is actually LOADING. It does not produce any beeps when i turn it on. I opened it up and cleaned the DUST out with compressed air, then tried again with no change. I am at a loss for what to do next. Any help would be greatly appreciated. ThanksTry reseating the RAM and graphics card (pull them out and put them back in). Check the SLOTS are clear of any bits of dust while you have the parts out.

If the POWER supply in this other computer you mentioned is of equal or greater wattage, swap power supplies and see if it will boot then.

Hope to babble out to you before long.

I have this problem with my monitor. The thing is that it randomly will go to power down! I mean im on the computer and then suddenly the screen would go black and it would say "No signal detected" then it would say "Power down". Then the screen will go black. The little monitor light will go orange. The little light on the tower will go red and stay like that. After that it will stay like that. Regardless of whatever I do it will stay like that, so I am forced to restart the computer.

Thanks in advance Did this just start? Check the display power down setting in Power Options (control panel)Sorry to tell you...this isn't a problem with the monitor itself. It is actually a problem with your computer, it is crashing, bad.

I would say it's an OVERHEATING issue but usually that RESULTS in automatic reboots, but you are getting hard crashes, where windows suddenly dies and ends up just leaving anything and everything running. (I'm leaning toward the power supply) Meaning failing capacitors and after they heat up enough, they do not work right and end up outputting the wrong voltage or something like that.

It could also be your graphics card (as long as it is not ONBOARD)

Another possibility is your RAM, you could have a defective stick of RAM, and after a while, as RAM FILLS up with programs and information, it then gets to the bad chip and errors out, windows crashes and leaves everything black.

It could also be a motherboard fault. Where maybe there is a VERY small fracture in the board from YEARS of heating up, cooling, heating up, cooling...and repeat a hundred or so more times.

In conclusion, start with the power supply, by borrowing a known good PSU of the same wattage or greater.

Then if that doesn't fix it, try each stick of ram individually, if it still happens...

Try removing your graphics card and operating from the onboard graphics.

Failing that...I would say you are looking at a motherboard replacement

Hope this helps!right.. i would recommend to do some maintenance inside your PC, especially in graphic card area, try to remove graphic card and remove any dust in it, be careful not to damage it of course, but i had same issue some months ago and cleaning out dust from graphic card (main area is under fan and fan itself) took that same issue away.
hope it helps;)

Hey guys,

I have a problem with one of my computers. I recently moved to another house, and when I tried using my computer, the PCI card isnt even being recognized by the computer. I tried re seating it into the PCI slot, and reinstalling the driver, to no avail..

I had removed the rubber antenna prior to moving, then re attached it after I set it up again.

Not sure why this is happening, and I was hoping one of you guys had an idea.

Thanks,
Image

Edit- Just tried using a different PCI slot. still no luck.Under Hardware management do you see any ! flagged devices?

It is possible for the device to have died, but usually even a blown device can show up as unknown or with a ! flag.DaveLembke,
What you say is often true. There is often a warning. But not always. Or maybe it goes unnoticed.

Here is something like that . I have a troublesome cord that just mow stopped working altogether. I would say the it just stopped, but I do remember that was the one that had given be trouble before. So yes, there was a warning

So, IME, I would tell the OP to just go buy a new card.
Now you can get good ONES under $20 even with shipping.Moving/relocating a machine seems to always cause issues...
Before giving up the ghost on the card do a thorough cleaning inside with all power removed and a can of compressed air.
Take the time to remove/reseat all components and power cables.I just tried that same card in another PC..worked like a charm. Im just buying a new card for the PC..

any suggestions for a PCI Nic in the $25 range?There may not have been anything wrong with the card, it may have just come unseated.Quote from: Quantos on November 04, 2009, 12:00:52 PM

There may not have been anything wrong with the card, it may have just come unseated.

• Card used to work in 1st computer.
• Card stopped working in 1st computer, after computer was moved.
• Tried card in different slot in 1st computer, still didn't work.
• Card works in 2ND computer, therefore, card is good.

• Card used to work in 1st computer.
• Card stopped working in 1st computer, after computer was moved.
• Tried card in different slot in 1st computer, still didn't work.
• Card works in 2nd computer, therefore, card is good.

Don't assume new card will work in 1st computer. Maybe slots are messed up

Just tried using a different PCI slot. still no luck.

Hi, I have a Sapphire ATI Radeon x1950GT 256MB on Windows XP Service Pack 3 and I am not having much luck.

I am sure that it is just a setting I need to change, or something I need to do, but I don't know what it could be.

I played Saints Row 2 first, and was really upset that it wasn't running properly, but I played need for speed shift after and it was the same, so I think there is either something broken, or something needs to be changed.

The crystal textures if you are unaware are a bit LIKE this

http://www.crystalinks.com/crystalsmexico.jpg

they are pointy at the ends, and contain textures within (illegible though)

I had a mess around inside the saints row 2 settings, and changing the resolution gave me a bit of breathing room, and I thought it was fixed until I turned around and there it was (in game turn around, quite quick, maybe that info helps)

I hope it isn't the card, I will try an older game to SEE if the card just isn't powerful enough to run saints row 2 and shift (although it exceeds the min. requirements)

I hope someone can help.try to use high resolution if u didn't .Thanks but it didn't make a difference.


I checked the catalyst CONTROL centre to see if it gave me any clues, and it gave me 2 things.

1. It lists 2 graphics CARDS, a primary and secondary... there is only one card, could there be a conflict? How do I resolve.

2. I bought the card used, the previous owner may have used ati overdrive, is there any way to check this? The control centre says there may be some graphical glitches if it is used.

There are postal strikes lately, so I hope I don't have to return it for a replacement, it would probably be a week or more before I received another card or a REFUND... which would annoy me even more.

I just want to play saints row 2, i am bout to install and try crime life gang wars, I will update if it is any different.crime life works ok, which is making me wonder if it has to do with shader 3, or something else, I think it is fixable, I just need soeone who knows about graphics cards to put me out of my misery
Used card...it could be anything...
How much RAM in that machine ?
1GB Ram, it does the job with my 2.4GHz Core2DuoShould be enough for those games...how long have you had the card and did it ever work properly ?
I have had it since this morning. I am trying a bunch of benchmarks, they all seem to work ok though, I just wish I knew what the problem was.

I had a problem, my thumbdrive was working fine last few months. I had transferred files into my thumbdrive, i had tested it by rechecking is it being transferred into it. Its was there but recently i insert my thumbdrive again, it cannot be detected and i totally cannot access files inside as its not even detected. Is there any way i can get the files inside the thumbdrive? Help help help.....

=(


ps: insert thumbdrive have light on the thumbdrive but its not detected.
Have you tried another computer?Quote from: Mlstrl on October 25, 2009, 04:44:24 AM

Its was there but recently i insert my thumbdrive again, it cannot be detected and i totally cannot access files inside as its not even detected.

ps: insert thumbdrive have light on the thumbdrive but its not detected.

"Disk Management" ?

USBView can enumerate USB host controllers, USB hubs, and attached USB devices. It can also query information about the devices from the registry and through USB requests to the devices.

...i had tried number 4 solution and its not detected....

For example, I press "Tab" key and it types out "A". I press "1" and it types out "1qz". Any help would be appreciated. Laptop, Desktop, Labelmaker?.....Sorry... - a laptopDo you have another keyboard that you can try....
Is the MACHINE under warranty?No its not under warranty and I do not have another keyboard to try. Here we go again. Give us the model number.
But if its a Sony, never mind. Its is hopeless.
It is a Gateway Solo Pro 9300. I tried cleaning the keys. It appears as though something sticky may have been spilled in it. I got most of the keys working properly by cleaning them with alcohol. I will keep trying by process of elimination, (unless you have another suggestion) ThanksDid you actually remove the keys one by one and clean them? If not, you may want to (carefully) do that. Use a key puller if you have one. If not, GENTLY pry each key up with a dull knife while the machine is OFF and clean everything that way. Be careful not to break anything as you remove or replace the keys (to replace, just insert the key into the slot and firmly DEPRESS straight down).I did actually remove most of the keys one by one. I have a question though, the white piece that actually sits on the board - is this supposed to be GLUED down or not? Some are and some are not. Do I need to glue them down? And if so - what kind of glue? Also there are some keys above the rest of the keyboard (like an internet key & volume keys). Do they come off and if so - how do I get them off?

Thanks for your response.
RobinDON'T use alcohol on your laptop.

It can affect the circuits on the keyboard and anything else it comes into contact with. Your keyboard needs to be REPLACED.

Help I need some assistance on upgrading my power supply. I went to the link http://www.techsupportforum.com/hardware-support/ram-power-supply-support/192217-power-supply-information-selection.html and did the extreme power supply calculator lite v2.5 and recommends a power supply of 278 watts. Where the need for assistance comes in is with the amperages for the various voltages. Below is the power supply I currently have.

When I look at power supplies with greater wattage I will find that either the +12v amps are the same or greater than what I currently have but then the +5v amps are less than what I currently have or the +12v amps are less and the +5v amps are more than I currently have then the +3v amps are typically lower than I currently have. How do I choose an upgrade that will work?


[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]Why are you upgrading the power supply? Have you added or plan on adding any new peripheral components or had problems recently? Earlier this summer I had random shutdown issues. Working with this site the problem appeared to be caused by a corrupt anti-virus file. Deleted the file & reloaded a new one and all was fine for about 3 weeks then shutdowns started again. removed the anti-virus all together and downloaded COMODO Internet Security to see if shutdowns would happen with a different anti-virus. All was good for a few weeks then the shutdowns started again. Replaced the CMOS battery and that seemed to work for a while but then shutdowns started again. I downloaded Speedfan to see if that might help. Speed fan was showing the harddrive was running hot so I added another fan for cross ventilation and that seemed to help. Haven't had any shutdowns for a couple of weeks. I want to add a harddrive fan and max out my memory as I am going to start converting my VHS tapes to DVD. According to the power supply calculator I am getting pretty close to the max and the addition of the above items will put me on the edge.Could you please post the cpu temp. from speed fan and what kind of cpu you're using...

Are you using a video card or onboard video?



When deciding on what psu to purchase, you first have to determine what your amperage (amps) needs are for each voltage rail. The cpu uses amperage from the 12 volt rail... CD/DVD drive moter, hard drive moter, and fan moters all run off the 12 volt rail as well. If you're using a video card, that will also run off the 12 volt rail. The logic circuit on the drives will use the 5 volt rail... The point is that you need to look at the power rating of the components installed in your computer. For instance, the CD/DVD drive in my computer uses 1.5 amps from the 12 volt rail for the moter, and 1.3 amps from the 5 volt rail for the logic circuits (as stated on the drive). Find out how many amps each component in the computer draws and on what rail. Once you've got all that info. you do a little math. For example, my cd/dvd drive uses 1.5 amps/12 volt, and 1.3 amps/5 volt. Multiply the amps * the volts to determine the total wattage used. 1.5 x 12 = 18 watts. 1.3 x 5 = 6.5 watts. Add those together and you get the total wattage for the drive (24.5 watts). Do that for all the components on the system and add the wattage of each component together and walla, you've got your total wattage needed. (it's not easy to determine the total wattage of the motherboard itself so you may want to use that online calculator to determine its wattage)

Just be sure that whatever psu you purchase offers enough amperage on each rail for your components. If the 12 volt rail for example, offered 15 amps max, and total amperage used by the components was over 15 A, it wouldn't work (well, it might, but let's not push it)...It's also advised that you go a little over the required amperage needed, so you don't max out a rail at any given time. Also, Once you've got the total wattage added up for your system, add 15 - 20 % to leave ROOM for expanding and/or anything you may have missed in calculating.

Any given power supply will not supply max. amperage on all rails simultaneously, but an average user is not likely to draw the maximum power possible for each component anyway, so you might wonder why adding 15 - 20 % is necessary; like I said, you never know when you may need a lot of power and you'll want room for expansion and/or miscalculations. And be sure to get a psu that uses a 24-pin main connector (not a 20-pin) otherwise, if you decide to use a PCIexpress card, you'll have to use an adapter that connects the 4-pin molex connector to the 6-pin connector on the PCIexpress card. The 24-pin main connector on a psu corrects the lack of power that the 20-pin connector can deliver...


There are also other specifications you may want to look for in a supply, such as PFC (power factor correction) and over-voltage protection, and cooling aside from many other possible specs.... Cheap supplies with bad cooling heat up and don't deliver the rated power output. The hotter they get the less they can deliver power.



If you're unable to figure out how much current a component draws, just look at the rated power draw of the components, in "watts". For instance, a "100 watt" PCIexpress card will run off the 12 volt rail, which MEANS, to find out the amperage draw for the card just divide the watts by the voltage. 100 watts divided by 12 volts is approx. 8.3 amps...




Note: The online calculator you used suggested a 278 watt supply, so you figure just get a 300 watt supply right? Not exactly, going out and getting any supply just because it offers 300 watts doesn't mean its amperage output per rail is sufficient for your particular needs...Be sure to look at the amps available per rail. Don't pay attention to the +5v SB on the psu when determining how much power it has....Disregard the -5 and -12 voltages on the psu unless you plan on using legacy (old) hardware that runs off negative voltage... They are not counted in the max. power out put, if no devices are using them..






This is a pretty good summary:
A short history of PC power supply voltage rails
On a newer computer, you can pretty much ignore both the +3.3V & +5.0.
+12V on multiple rails will give you the most bang for the buck.The first pic is the cpu temp after being IDLE for a couple of hours and just activating Speedfan. The second pic is the cpu after speed fan has been running for about 10-15 minutes.


The cpu is:
Base processor
Intel Pentium4 530 (P) 3.0 GHz (HT)
•800 MHz Front side bus
•Socket 775
•Hyper Threading tecnology

The Video Card is INTEGRATED:
Video graphics
•Integrated in Intel 915G chipset
•Intel Graphics Media Accelerator (GMA) 900

For a new power supply I planning on going no less than 500 watts. Haven't gotten to doing the component amperage calculations just yet its getting a bit late.

Computer_Commando mentions "on a newer computer"...is 2004 considered newer?

[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]Your current psu is okay. SpeedFan data looks okay. If a anything, HDD getting to 53C is something to ponder.Quote

If a anything, HDD getting to 53C is something to ponder.

My system is a Dell INSPIRON 1300 laptop and it's about 3 years old. They don't sell them any more. I recently installed a new operating system on it, XP Ultimate edition, and it worked fine. I took it apart and was very careful with it, but we all make MISTAKES. The BIOS doesn't start when i turn it on. No beeps no screen activity. Just a light that confirms that the power is on.

Is there any way to fix this? i can't afford a new computer.Why did you take it apart? Over looking the why for the moment. It COULD be a power supply issue, if you can get your hands on ANOTHER PSU and PLUMB it in then it's a quick tell. I would try resetting the BIOS before going to the trouble though.Quote

if you can get your hands on another PSU

Hello, new to this place. I'm trying to solve an issue at work.

We have a HP Laserjet 1200 Series printer (Yes, it's ancient--my boss hates buying new things, but this printer has worked remarkably well). We had to buy a new one after 10+ years of use. Recently, the printer queues up print jobs, then I get an error bubble saying the printer could not print the document.

I've tried it all-drivers, a hard restart, everything is connected, no paper jams, even deleted and reinstalled the printer. It will print multiple things fine then suddenly the next document wont print and it all goes downhill. (Once it was printing 1 line of symbols for 200+ pages before it stopped).

Now, the CD-ROM drive (ANKXOPQ A34DAB4T6 SCSI) is dead. It wouldnt open, so I used a paperclip. Put a CD in, closed the door. Nothing. No whirring noise; nothing is working inside. If I double-click the icon it asks for me to insert a disc.

So my questions:

Are these hardware problems somehow related? How can I fix them?

My boss and co-worker are convinced it's because of a tremendously large online back-up being done through Mozy. They think everything will magically work when it's done in a week. I'm not so optimistic. Mozy has not affected my internet speed, using software programs, or anything else on the computer.

Specs:

Windows XP
Intel Pentium 4 3 GHZ
3 GB RAM
More than 800 GB free space
(The computer was built in 2004)
Quote

Are these hardware problems somehow related?
How can I fix them?

Neither a mobo nor psu issue would cause these problems.

got a nvidia fx5500 pci card 256mb when I install it will go to the windows screen and then it will black out and wont go any further. Is this a driver problem? I downloaded the DRIVERS from the disk and the web SIGHT but cant get them to load.
it will get so far and then I get (Nvida setup program couldnot LOCATE any drivers that are compatible with your current hardware Setup will now exit. ) Will the machine boot to safe mode ? ?
This is done by tapping F8 repeatedly at startup...well with a little frustration and some reading I got it to recognize it by uninstalling the on board and going that route but now when I shut down the computer and try to start it again it does nothing. it wont even come on unless I take the card out and PUT the monitor back to the on board. but that is just a forced bios generic driver isn't it? according to the device manager it showed the latest driver before I shut it down. But like I said now it wont come on and I got tired of banging my head against the wall. when it does come on it shows that it is the 256mb card during the boot sequence. Try to go to safe mode FIRST by tapping on F8, if it does show up in safe mode then it is an os prob. If it doesn't then I think there could be something wrong with the video card. You can as well check it in the bios if the video card is detected properly or not.


Christine

Thank you , I missed that.
It is a very popular board and hard to believe there is anything wrong with it, But there is one clue. You said the PSU was replace.
Before you try to replace the mobo, Try this:
Prepare a boot floppy from another PC.
Remove the Video card and replace it with an older, low-POWER card.
Remove RAM sticks and replace with smaller, low power stick.
Remove the HDD. (Or just DISCONNECT poser and data cables.)
Remove the CD-ROM drive. (Or just disconnect poser and data cables.)
Remove all USB devices.

The idea here is to reduce all PSU demands.
Now see if you can boot the thing with a Floppy. We are not now using the Windows GUI OS, so that is out of the picture here. We are testing hardware.

If it works, something you removed is a power sucker and put the PSU was put on the edge of fold over. The floppy drive normally takes a surge of current WENT it turns on with a disk present and kicks the PSU into SELF protect shutdown if there already is a high current demand.

That is the best hope I can give you.

Hello,

I am a student doing computer networking and internet technology at college so all my family think I KNOW everything about computer....which I don't lol
So the other day my dads friend hands me his LAPTOP whille he is over and said "It won't work. I pulled cables out and its now not WORKING" and then said "can you try fix it " so here I am.

I turned on the laptop and it shows a power light and fans start spinning but nothing else (nothing on screen)
I have tryied connecting the laptop to a LCD TV via VGA to have the same result as above.
Am a bit lost on what I should do next any ideas would be super

thanks steven1) Explain to them you are not a computer expert
2) He pulled cables out? What does that mean?Yeah m8 I tryied explaining lol.. I guess its good practice


Ok from what I gather the guy uses the laptop as a sort of media Hub. CONNECTS it to his TV and Amplifier and a microphone for sing alongs (I try avoid his house as much as possible). So after they finished kicking the jams he pulled all the cables out whille the laptop was running. The laptop then shut off with out warning. He tryied turning it on the next day to get nothing on screen. (I told him it was his bad singing lol. That didn't go down well)

Not to sure which connectors he uses to connect everything but he isn't tech minded at all so prob VGA and headphone jack for sound.He could have shorted out something when he pulled the cables. The laptop should go to a computer repair shop or back to the manufacturer for repair.Is there any way of repairing this problem from HOME?

I did a little course on opening and rebuilding laptops but not problem solving or electronic repairs.. So would it be worth me taking the computer apart and then rebuilding it....basicly will the problem be instantly clear once I open it ?


I know allready the laptop will get binned and a replacement bought if it means handing it over to a computer repair man...The laptop isn't amazing just got the job doneI have no idea what's wrong with it. It needs to be disassembled and looked at by a pro. If you want to take it upon yourself to do so that's your business, but I can't offer any further advice. Sorry.

Hello everyone,

I've recently PUT together a HTPC and haven't been able the bios to boot.

When I turn the MACHINE on, everything spins up, keyboard flashes (and responds to CTRL-ALT-Del) but nothing appears on the monitor.

Steps I Took:
1. Removed all but RAM, CPU, keyboard, Video = Fans spinning, CD Spins, no video, no beep codes
2. Removed all but CPU and Keyboard (No RAM) 1 Long beep, 2 short (good!)
3. Reset BIOS with jumper reset and removing BIOS battery
4. Tested with a couple different video CARDS, ram configurations and PSU's - all the same result


What I did find was if I installed basics, RAM, video, keyboard, cpu and hit ALT-F2 after turning on, the EZ-Flash would start up, load the new ROM from the CD Rom and restart properly. After the reboot though, nothing shows up again.

This tells me that obviously the video card, keyboard, IDE interface are all working - but still I can't get to the BIOS or have any clue as to whats going wrong.

Can anyone help me? I'm LEANING towards a blown CPU, BUT I thought I would get a POST beep code indicating that.


The parts I've tried:

Mobo: A8V
RAM: 2x 1GB PC3200, 2x 512MB PC3200
Video: Nvidia 6900 gs agp, ATI HD 3650 agp, Radeon 7500 agp, ATI (Something) PCI
PSU: EarthWatts 580w, Thermaltake 680



Thanks!
TimQuote from: specko on November 02, 2009, 10:32:18 AM

...I'm leaning towards a blown CPU, BUT I thought I would get a POST beep code indicating that...

I hope I put this question in the right forum.

I just need some help with a small issue. I have a Dell Inspiron laptop computer. When I unplug the AC ADAPTER and just run it from battery POWER alone the screen automatically gets very bright the second that the ac cord is unplugged. As soon as I plug the ac cord back in it gets dim again. I'd just like to use the computer on AC power without this change in brightness but I'm not sure why that happens. It seems like some AUTOMATIC setting. It would make more sense if the screen was brighter on ac adapter, as if this was some power-saving setting that would useful when you're running the computer from the battery alone, but it seems to be backwards.Perhaps you have the brighness turned down? With the power adapter plugged in, check to make sure brightness is not turned down.Quote from: haus_kat on October 12, 2009, 11:41:10 AM

...I'd just like to use the computer on AC power without this change in brightness but I'm not sure why that happens. It seems like some automatic setting. It would make more sense if the screen was brighter on ac adapter, as if this was some power-saving setting that would useful when you're running the computer from the battery alone, but it seems to be backwards.

about 2 years ago i bought a mobo OEM
now that i want to UPGRADE CPU i dont KNOW what my mobo supports other then athlon 64 x2
my mobo is a nVidia nforce 590 SLI am2+ mobo but i cant find anything else
can someone please help me with specs?Download and run either Belarc Advisor or EverestQuote from: lolpizowned on October 31, 2009, 01:32:59 AM

about 2 years ago i bought a mobo OEM
now that i want to upgrade cpu i dont know what my mobo supports other then athlon 64 x2
my mobo is a nVidia nforce 590 SLI am2+ mobo but i cant find anything else
can someone please help me with specs?

Hello,

I'm a beginner who recently took to trying to build my own computer. I have the case, power unit, motherboard, CPU, and memory all installed correctly. Now, my FIRST problem is that when I start my computer, the blue light and the fans go on, but the speaker that came with my case doesn't beep(at all), and I can't use the power button to turn my computer back off. The FAN on the CPU is spinning, the case fan spins, but there is no message from my speaker. Secondly, when the machine first starts up, the keyboard lights all flash once, and then they go dark. Is this more of a motherboard problem or a CPU issue. Or is it the memory? I'm new to this and I figured this forum is my best shot at help seeing as how real customer service is a dead art form. Any ideas? Am I missing something? Any help WOULD be greatly appreciated.Well first off, the keyboard lights are supposed to all light up and then go off, thats usually normal. Do you see anything on the screen? You didnt mention any GPU.I'm using a RealtekHD Radeon 4650, but its not being picked up by the motherboard. So when I hook up my monitor its telling me that there's no signal. I guess I could be missing something, I'm hoping its me and not the machine. Thanks for the reply by the way.Now, do you hear the HDD spinning at all? Also I may be wrong but i know on my desktop I never get a beep from the INTERNAL speaker.yeah, it sounded as tho it was. Is the video card incompatible? Does it matter that it turns on but not off?its a Gigabyte790xt MB by the way. So unfortuantely no built in video. I really appreciate your trying to help by the way.Looks like a similar issue here:

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=300409

maybe it isnt the same. Were you ever able to get any kind of screen to display? Ever update the bios? You might want to uninstall and then reinstall the GPU. ALso with the computer not turning off, what do you mean? Like you hold down the power button for a couple seconds and it wont turn off?

And no problem for helping you out. I will try my best, im just not an expert lolNo screen displays, can't get to BIOS, and thats exactly the issue with the power button. I'm thinking its an MB, CPU, or RAM issue. Its strange tho, because I feel as thos everything is working, it just isnt picking up my video card. I'm going to try and bring it to a buddy at work tommorow to see if they can see wat the problem is, although I would RATHER try to fix it myself. The whole learning exprience thing. Anyway I've got to get some sleep for now. Can I contact you again in the future if the problem is still around? Thanks for your help too at such a late hour.Yea no problem. Feel free to message me on here. Let me know any updates.

Hi,

I just built a PC for my friend, I have built all the PCs in my house and built many for friends family etc. But this one is the first that's made me pull my hair out.

It powers up fine, windows starts and it will run fine (i.e browsing the net etc). Now the minute i go to run a game (even an old one which the computer is more than ABLE to play) the PC just switches off. This also happens when certain programmes install updates such as windows. When it shuts off it doesn't restart it just turns off (almost like the plug has been pulled). When i turn the power back on it starts up fine again until i try to run a game or it installs updates, then the same thing happens again. If anyone has any suggestions I would be most gratefull. All I can guess at the moment is power supply. Its all brand new so there is no dust build up.

The system specs are as follows

thermaltake case with 5 x 120mm fans. 1 at front bottom, 2 on side panel (I have these set to blow INWARDS) and there is 1 at top of case and 1 top back of case (these are set to blow air out).

ASUS M4N78 pro motherboard (graphics are on-board and are the ones being used)
AMD athlon II X2 250 am3 3ghz processor
2gig ddr2 1066MHz ram (I have also tried my 2 gig of ddr2 800MHz to see if the ram was the problem but the problem persists).
DVD Drive
1 terabyte hardrive (SATA)
750 watt switching power supply (its a cheap one which is mainly why i think this could be the problem).
The specs on the power supply are as follows:
+3.3V = 30A
+5V = 33A
+12V1 = 24A
+12V2 = 24A
-12V = 0.3A
+5VSB = 2.5A

I installed speed fan which says:

GPU = 43c
TEMP 1 = 32c
Temp2 = 30c
Temp3 = -128c
HD0 = 30c
core = 23c
core = 43c
Ambient = 0c

Thank you for your time in advance

PeteThermal paste applied properly at build time ? ?It was already applied to the HEATSINK which came with the CPU, which has been attached properly.

I'm on the computer at min its been on for a few hours and not shut down its just when some updates take place or a game is installed (also cuts off if the game is run after turning back on)Then i suspect as well the PSU...

However do some temp readings when gaming....speedfan will minimize to the tray.I had similar problem with a laptop, where I was able to run a game, but it would turn off after a while caused to overheating. Defenitely check your temps