Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

I have a computer that sounds like it is GOING to take off at any time. I would like to know who makes a really quit fan. Other than the noise every thing works good.Is this a recent issue related to a changed noise level on the particular fan or has it always been like this? truenorthDepends on which fan...if it's the PSU fan i'd spend the cabbage on a new PSU just from experience...when they start gettin noisy they are close to failing.

That being said any other fan involved including CPU;vid card and case fans the quietest i use are all ball bearing fans...

Hope this helps.
I think it is the case fan. I didn't even think about the CPU fan. What ever fan it is it has all ways made a lot of noise. I really didn't notice how much noise it made till I used the wife's computer then went back to mine. Hers has an Antec case and it is really quiet. Mine is really loud. I may need to replace the case to an Antec. Thanks for your time.Well of course you are free to spend your money as you desire, However it seems to me your likely to be a lot LESS out of pocket by 1st identify which fan is actual the noisy one and then it is very likely it can be replaced by a quieter one that will be compatible with the requirements of the computer. Changing to another case has the potential to be fraught with other problems given all that will have to be moved. For your consideration.truenorth Quote from: truenorth on April 23, 2011, 09:31:37 AM

Well of course you are free to spend your money as you desire, However it seems to me your likely to be a lot less out of pocket by 1st identify which fan is actual the noisy one and then it is very likely it can be replaced by a quieter one that will be compatible with the requirements of the computer. Changing to another case has the potential to be fraught with other problems given all that will have to be moved. For your consideration.truenorth

By the way I asked for what type of fan made the least noise. The fan that is in there is a ball bearing fan. The noise I am hearing is from the air movement, I think. It isn't grinding or any thing like that.

I would honestly just buy some Electrical grade lubricant. Rather than sitting there and buy a new fan or component.

The noise is coming from the P.S.U. fan. So I will change out the P.S.U. and see if that helps. Thank you much for your time.

Last year I bought a used Phillips 190S 19" LCD monitor via ebay. Hooked it up to my HP DC7100 loaded to dual boot XP Pro Sp3 or PCLinuxOS. But before I could hook it up, I had to do a little re-forming of a damaged (partially crushed) connector on the SVGA cable. That accomplished, and I was off to happy camperland. For nearly a year.

Last week it began intermittently misbehaving at startup. When I power up the computer, the monitor power LED goes from amber (sleep) to green (on) and the display presents... ordinarily. But now, the monitor power LED goes from amber to green for less than a second before it reverts back to amber. <--That cycle would then repeat continuously at about 3 - 4 second regular INTERVALS. The result is that I am presented with an intermittant & unuseable video display.

Online or off.
Reboot.
Disconnect power cords: computer AND monitor
Bought and installed a new SVGA cable
Swapped computers to a Compaq loaded with W2KPro
Swapped monitors to a 15" Dell LCD
Swapped computers back to the HP

1. BOTH computer/monitor COMBINATIONS presented the same symptoms.
2. BOTH computer/monitor combinations with different cables presented the same.
3. I managed to reaquire useable video only after dragging out an old Gateway 2000 CRT monitor.

Item: My gut tells me it's asking too MUCH of coincidence to condemn both SVGA cables. It also tells me it's asking too much of coincidence to condemn both LCD monitors. That said, I have to admit to the fact that so far I've yet been able to achieve success with the new cable. But I HAD achieved success with the original cable.

Item: Neither computer has a removeable video card.

I'm stumped.

Can video drivers go corrupt from outta the blue? And if so, wouldn't said corrupt drivers also botch the display on a CRT monitor?Simple.
All computers can display a on a any VGA compatible monitor without drivers
Boot in SAFE mode with VGA. No driver issue.

Cables WEAR out. They never self heal.
Monitors can be erratic. The never get lastingly better.
Dammaged connectors give trouble.
It is not Karma.
It is the cost of ownership.   

Put it this way. How do you like to fly on an airplane that is forty years old and the skin is peeling off?
I would try to "borrow" a video card and then run through your tests on the 2 monitors (using the card in the 2 computers if possible) truenorth

So, I built this computer late summer '10. For this whole time, it has had display driver issues while playing most games (MASS Effect 1 & 2, Borderlands, Portal 2 [only in the 'old testing facility', though...  ], Doom3 [doesn't even recover; I have to restart the system], COD MW2, Planetside, Just Cause 2... Sufficient to say that the list of games that DON'T experience issues is way shorter).

I figured it was a display driver issue (since they are what keep failing), but updating the drivers in January didn't have an effect. Nor could I find any info on specific games doing what I was observing on forums. I seem to be a rather isolated case. I've reformatted the system drive several times with no change in behavior (though about every-other install presents with the problem of menus and windows fading in and out very slow; about 2 seconds for each animation. Fixable by turning off CPU scaling in the BIOS, but I reinstall anyways.).

Also, my computer makes some pretty funny NOISES in games; kind of like a high-pitched buzzing. It changes in pitch and frequency as my field of view changes, which makes me think video card, but I don't know if this could be related to the display driver stability issue I'm having.

Finally, I've run Memtest86+ with no errors. What do you guys make of this?

System: Asus P6T, Intel i7 930, 6GB ram, BFG 275GTX OC, 875W PSU. Running Win7x64 and Ubuntu 10.10 32-bitI have heard lots of problems with the BFG 275GTX OC's with them having overheating problems which then causes permanent GPU issues. If you have a spare video card kicking around or can borrow one from another computer, I would swap that out. BFG went out of business around the time that these cards were crapping out prematurely too. My BROTHER got burned on this same exact model. His card lasted about 9 months until it cooked and caused all sorts of oddities which further lead to the system crashing and rebooting as he didnt replace it when it was glitching and it got worse to the point that the system was rejecting the card...lol

As far as the noise you hear, I havent seen a GPU failure ever cause this, however it could be taxing the interrupt requests and causing timing losses for the audio. 99% of the audio issues that sound like yours are people using the USB powered speakers in which they are not well filtered and so the electrical noise on the 5 volts that the USB port provides is heard through the speakers. Depending on the load on the 5 volts and frequency of this noise, it can be barely noticable or extremely annoying.Called it out of the gate; was the video card. I took a stab in the dark and bought a NEW video card and that corrected the driver issue. That's too bad; got a smoking deal on that 275... now I know why

Also, the sound the computer is making is lower-pitched since the new card; I have no idea what this means. The speakers are jacked in via the 3.5mm(?) plug; I've never had good luck with USB audio (specifically input). Not really worried about it; I can turn game volume up a bit and drown it out.  SOMETIMES a small rubber/felt washer on the vid card hold-down screw will dampen that hum...probably resonance from the vid card fan...

This is the first item I ever saw this term.

:'(I want to relace 230mm FANS with 250mm fans in Azza 2000 case(led fans);will all 4 clear?Will the 4 120mm fans clear?Corsair 950tx,amd6970 card;astek 510lc cooling.What do you MEAN "clear"? Clear what?Many 230mm fans are available.
If you are not sure, why would you want to use anything other than the original?
Wouldn't notice a whole heck of a lot of difference between a 230 and 250 anyway.

As to whether or not they'd "clear", if you mean FIT the screw holes, you'd have to check that yourself. If you mean whether or not they'll be in the way of other hardware, you'd have to check that yourself as well.

Even if we could answer this, the only way to be sure is to check the case and see. Online SPECIFICATIONS are never 100% accurate and don't take into consideration what hardware you might already have in there. My latest build should have had room for the CPU cooler and the case's side FAN, based on online specs and measurements, which proved to be inaccurate by 1cm. That's something you should consider as well.

Thanks to you good people, I made a decision that Intel Pentium Dual-Core Processor E6700 3.20GHz is better than Intel Core 2 duo E6700 2.66GHz.

Now I have one more question.

My Motherboard is HP 0A54h, the chipset is Intel Q965. In my understanding its SOCKET is socket 775.
 
When I checked the following website,

http://www.cpu-upgrade.com/mb-Intel_%28chipsets%29/Q965_Express.html

I couldn't find Intel Pentium Dual-Core Processor E6700 3.20GHz in the list. The highest for it was model E2220 2.4 GHz (at the very bottom of the page).

Does that mean it will not fit to my motherboard?

Just for your information, my computer spec is in the following website.

http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Document.jsp?lang=en&cc=us&taskId=120&prodSeriesId=3232029&prodTypeId=12454&objectID=c00798487

I am a self-taught computer novice and have learned a lot from people like you by asking questions. Thank you very much!You must select a CPU that fits the socket.
The 775 is called  LGA 775
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_775
Quote

The socket has been superseded by the LGA 1156 (Socket H) and LGA 1366 (Socket B) sockets.

All processors in the table below will physically fit into the socket LGA775, but not all of them are supported by all motherboards. If you're upgrading an old computer system please make sure that the CPU is compatible with your motherboard. Please see "Upgrading socket 775 motherboards" section below for information on how to determine what microprocessors can be supported by your motherboard.

CPU FAMILY Frequency The fastest CPU(s)
Celeron 400 series 1.6 GHz - 2.2 GHz Celeron 450
Celeron D 2.4 GHz - 3.6 GHz Celeron D 365
Celeron Dual-Core 1.6 GHz - 2.6 GHz Celeron Dual-Core E3400
Core 2 Duo 1.8 GHz - 3.33 GHz Core 2 Duo E8600
Core 2 Extreme 2.66 - 3.2 GHz Core 2 Extreme QX9770
Core 2 Quad 2.4 GHz - 3 GHz Core 2 Quad Q9650
Pentium 4 2.66 GHz - 3.8 GHz Pentium 4 672
Pentium 4 670
Pentium 5 571
Pentium 5 570J
Pentium 4 Extreme Edition 3.2 GHz - 3.73 GHz JM80547PH1092MM (BX80547PH3730F)
Pentium D 2.66 GHz - 3.6 GHz Pentium D 960
Pentium Dual-Core desktop 1.6 GHz - 3.06 GHz Pentium Dual-Core E6600
Pentium Extreme Edition 3.2 GHz - 3.73 GHz Pentium Extreme Edition 965
Xeon 3000 series 1.86 GHz - 3.16 GHz Xeon 3085
Xeon E3120
Xeon X3230
Xeon X3380

There are no CPUs from other manufacturers compatible with socket LGA775.
http://www.cpu-world.com/Sockets/Socket%20775%20(LGA775).html

My Dell INSPIRON 6000 LED screen failed (BAD CCFL). Switched to CRT Monitor which works fine after Log on but will not DISPLAY CMOS therefore I can not adjust bios (F2) or use safe mode (F8) or dell diagnostics (F12). Computer is SETUP with XP SP3 with ATI Mobility Radeon x300 drivers and ATI Control Panel.

Did you save a copy of the old BIOS?

That is the recommended procedure when doing a BIOS upgrade.

Perhaps you need to go to the website and download another version of the BIOS.

You  may have used the wrong one.

Did you have a special reason for doing a BIOS upgrade?  The motherboard you have is not very old and it would seem unlikely that a revision would be needed

What do you see under device manager, network adapter?

Any flags or marks, other devices?

After installing the OS did you install your chipset driver that came with the mobo or thru online?

Did you reinstall the same XP service pack 3 on your computer?

Dear Experts

I have MotherBoard ASUS  P5GC-MX/1333 in the link below :

http://support.asus.com/download.aspx?SLanguage=en&m=P5GC-MX/1333&p=1&s=22&hashedid=PYvbfOokwxUzJky3

Every thing was working fine (XP Prof SP3) till my mate upgraded the BOIS after that Onboard LAN Adapter got missing from the Device Manager and the LAN icon got missing from my "Network Place".

I did a fresh installation of windows still the same problem is going on, then I realized the problem with BIOS.

I have checked BIOS and I enabled every thing that I would have thought is related to onboard LAN but still no joy.

What should I do to rectify the problem

Thanks

First of all: I'm trying to install windows 7, but I'll do this one problem at a time; my bios needs to be fixed first.

A little background: I downloaded and burned an image (from my MSDNAA account at school, not illegally) of Windows 7 Professional. The first 3 times I ran setup, it stopped at the "Setup is starting..." screen. I looked this up online, and saw a proposed solution was to change the sata setting from Native IDE to SATA>AHCI. I tried doing this, after looking up what this means.

The bios now hangs immediately on boot without even getting to POST, without sounding any beeps at all. The monitor says no signal, whether I plug it into the video card or onboard. If I reset the bios (by shorting the pins on the mobo), it works just fine--on the first subsequent boot. I can't even change the date and time without it breaking.

This is a home-built computer, about 6-7 years old. Hardware info is below.

Hardware information:
Motherboard model: Gigabyte GA-MA69VM-S2
CPU model: AMD Athlon 64 FX-37

More information on my hardware can be found here; this is a VERY old report, but the graphics card and added RAM are the only internal hardware changes. I've found out after a few more tries that I can actually get to windows setup if I wait a long time; it just takes about 5 minutes to finish loading.  (upgrade assistant says it should work fine, so I'm assuming its a hardware issue). I do plan on getting a new motherboard and cpu relatively in the next year or so, but I would prefer to fix this problem.

Notes and repeats from irc:
This is not a laptop, it is a desktop computer.
It works fine on the first boot after resetting the bios, but once its shut down/restarted, it wont boot again until I reset the bios again.Replace the CMOS battery on the MBoard....Part # CR 2032...available anywhere.
Make sure all power is removed...I had the battery tested yesterday, and it shows up as 3.08 volts (its RATED at 3.0 volts). I suppose I should have mentioned this in the additional notes.According to the manual for that board, there is a CMOS clear jumper between the CMOS battery and the SATAII ports. It's labeled "CLR_CMOS".

The manual recommends one of three methods to reset the CMOS: (of course, unplug the computer while doing any of these)
1. Place a jumper (or "short the two pins") on CLR_CMOS. It doesn't specify whether or not the system needs to be turned on or not after applying the jumper. My old Intel board REQUIRED the system to be turned on after placing the jumper, then it would TELL you to turn the system off and remove the jumper. Anyway, completing the circuit of this jumper is supposed to reset the CMOS to the default values.

2. Remove the battery for "about one minute", then reinstall it and boot up.

3. I do not recommend this personally, but the manual suggests you can "use a metal object to connect the positive and negative pins in the battery holder to make them short for 5 seconds." If you do try this, please be extra careful.This is not my problem. If you had read my post, you would see that resetting my bios before powering it on allows me to boot. I mentioned specifically that I was resetting it by shorting the pins; I don't have a jumper handy, but I was using the plug at the end of a usb cable (and later a small screwdriver) to short the pins, and this works just as well. My problem is getting the computer to boot WITHOUT clearing the bios every time. QUOTE from: Efreak on May 05, 2011, 11:03:11 AM

I had the battery tested yesterday, and it shows up as 3.08 volts (its rated at 3.0 volts). I suppose I should have mentioned this in the additional notes.

I have a Dell Vostro 1000 that has Windows 7 installed. When I turn the computer on a screen with a warning telling me my battery can't be identified and it can't be charged. It also has press enter to CONTINUE. I press enter and the computer WORKS fine. The battery charges OKAY and will keep a charge. Does anyone KNOW how to correct this problem? There are hundreds, thousands of people with that same complaint for  the last three years.
Do a GOOGLE search on hyour title.

Short answer: Just ignore it. Later buy a new battery.

I bought a Dell Inspiron 1720 from someone at work. He bought it at a pawn shop and took Vista off and installed XP Pro.He said the XP Pro doesn't have a product key because it was a PROTO type or something like that. I can't get updates from Microsoft because of this. I looked for a place to order a recovery disk from Dell but I couldn't find it. Can someone provide a link to find a recovery disk?I talked to dell on the phone. They won't sell me a recovery CD because I am not the original owner. I guess i will buy a NEW operating system.Well yes and no. Yes if you want a "legal' copy of a windows operating system=yes. However as an alternative with minimal loss of  use of the computer you could install a VERSION of Linux. It is free. The current version and seems to be very easy to use id "Mint  version Julia". Suggest you go to another computer google it and read up on it and see if you would like to give it a whirl. truenorthThe recovery partition is located on the hard drive, F12 at the Dell "splash screen" will reinstall Vista to the "as shipped" condition.Boy i sure hope for the O/P's sake that does work,truenorthSelecting F12 got me to the boot menu with no option for recovery. Try Ctrl + F11 at boot. The Microsoft Certificate of Authenticity sticker and Product key on the Laptop, is it still intact?Yes it isIf he wiped the drive and installed XP, it's possible he destroyed the recover partition in the process. Shame. Not sure they'd do something like that. The Vista that CAME with that laptop can't be used anywhere else.

Anyway, if you have the COA with the code on the bottom of the laptop, borrow someone's Vista disc. You'll still have to download all of the drivers from Dell and install it all manually.

I have three eIDE drives that I would like to use on my computer by being able to plug them into a slot in a case bay insert individually, as I want to boot to that drive.  My PC already has two hard drives connected via a Trios~Drive selector switch and I would like this third bay insert hooked to the third position on the switch.   I have two hot swap trays for Bytecc SNT-1122 but am unable to locate a bay insert for the trays.
Plus I'm uncertain that I would be able to boot to a hot swap device....
If I could boot to it then finding a bay insert and nuthuh tray would be the best option for me.   ANYONE got any pointers tips comments?  Thanx %:)) SW You can boot to any IDE drive. You BIOS should let you select from at least two hard drives after POST. On some PCs, you hit nF12 before the OS starts and the BIOS gives you a choice of boot devices.

They are called "Hot Swap Drives", but the term does not mean you can remove it any time with no problem. They are mechanical devices with no software hooks.
Doing a Google search on the term brings mixed results. Some articles with warn you that you have to have an OS that SUPPORTS this.

Yes, I know you know that already. Just PUT that hear to let others know it is not exactly what one might think.

From personal experience, if one does not buy the items in sets, it can be hard to find an extra part later.

These are available from the major vendors
Hard Drive Rack & Mobile Removable Tray 3.5 IDE ATA 133
Thanks I hadn't found that store yet.  I'm having a hard time deciding if any of them are reputable so I won't get ripped off.   Very low income on disability!  It's all so complicated for me to figure out.
Do you know if it has any HARDWARE associated with it [as maybe the hot swap BOARD on inside/ my Bytecc-1122 tray has a circuit board in it and this unit looks suprizingly similar] that might prevent booting to the drive in it?  I want a 5.25" Bay insert with removable trays to be able to plug in different drives and boot to the OS on them.  My PC has a Trios boot selector switch with two positions occupied by fixed drives and I want the third position to have capabilities of swapping drives via tray removal and insertion...  I would preferably like to use my Bytecc trays also.
Wonder why I wasn't notified of this reply I selected notifications!?!Understood. So am I.
Here is my recommendation.
http://geek9pm.com/test/no-tray.jpg
It is a picture of a new design that does not require a tray
Sorry, it does not come in IDE, just SATA.   

So with the IDE you have to buy a rack and two trays. But what I do is just use one rack and tray. When  I want to change, I have to remove the IDE from the tray and place another drive in the tray. It still beats opening up the PC case every time.
You can find these on New egg and Amazon and other vendors. The IDE models are kind of pricey, almost as much as a new drive.

I will not recommend buying this kind of ting from eBay. You want something the really works well.

BTW, the EASUS drive partition software is now free. If you have a very large drive  you can partition it and have up to four OS on one drive. But EASUS t is not a boot manager, yet it does help re-size existing drive partitions  without losing data.
http://www.partition-tool.com

I have one system that boots
Windows XP
Vista
Ubuntu
Off of one big drive.

Here is a generic MP3 player I have. No software.
If I MAKE a playlist in WMA will it make the thing play songs in the order I want?
Should I use WIN Amp instead?
Or should I just rename the songs so they are in a Alpha-Numeric order that represents the order I want?
Instead of fooling around, I thought that for just once I should ask.



[recovering DISK space - old attachment deleted by admin]Without a built-in or available software to CREATE and manage playlist for your MP3 player especially a generic brand, you can't as compared to most cellphones,IPODS popularity to sync and arrange music files. Winamp software for PC is my preference and can manage, create and save playlist media library as long as the folder directory when playlist is made is intact or not removed.

I have a Dell desktop computer with a 3.8 ghz Pentium 4 processor.  All of my Hard DISK Drives are SATA type drives.  I have a 1TB HDD as my primary, and 250GB as a secondary hard disk installed on my computer.  On my Acer laptop, it came with a 160GB 2.5" HDD, split in half, 80GB on "C" and 80GB on "D".  To me that was an ineffective way to use the drive. In no time my C drive was crammed full, the D drive was less than 1/2 full and my laptop was beginning to have issues related to the full drive.  I did not know how to move the partition on the drive without losing all my data, so I bought a WD 500GB for a replacement. I went to Best Buy, and got a Thermaltake Black Widow Dual Hard Drive Docking Station, and hooked it up to my desktop computer. When I tried to use Windows System tools to clone the Acer drive onto the  WD 500GB replacement, I learned it would not make a true "clone" copy. So, I looked AROUND and found that Norton Ghost would do what I needed to do. Upon further research  I read that I should GET version 14, not 15; because 15 had issues copying SATA drives. So, now I have installed Norton Ghost V14 on my Dell desktop, have the docking station connected using USB, and the *censored* thing still will not copy onto the new drive.  *censored*.  Norton comes back with the error message that it  is unable to copy my drive because it has too many NTFS issues to deal with.  I have no idea how to get this resolved, and really hate feeling so stupid.  Is there any one of you willing to help me get past this? I could pay someone to do this, but I can't afford the $150.00 they want to do it.  Anybody?
THANK you in advance,
TomYou are not stupid, just inexperienced.
Do not expect to make a true "clone" of a drive using and USB interface. The problem is tat the USB interface can not provide all of the blow level COMMANDS needed. No, I don't know why. I read that somewhere.

The best way to copy all the data from a laptop drive is to put the drive in a desktop using and adapter that does a direct hardware conversion of the IDE PATA connections.

Under $10 at Amazon and other major vendors. You need two to transfer from one laptop drive to another laptop drive.
BTW, EASUS is every bit as useful as Norton for most  "clone" jobs.

Still,  you should not have trouble with the adapter you are using. It is considered one of the best. Others report they work perfectly. Not like some of those cheap USB adapters you get on eBay.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhLJ2OXYdL4
This is a video of a happy user.Thanks for taking time to help. I have a working laptop, makes a happier wife for mother's day.
Great stuff; happy works, thanks again.

Hi everyone,

I have a question about MEMORY. My job recently upgraded their serverpark and was throwing away a bunch of parts. Amlng those some system specific memory. I am planning to build my own server now and was hoping that this memory could be used on other hardware even though it's marked as system specific. The memory in question is KTH-XW800/8G or http://www.superwarehouse.com/Kingston_8_GB_(2_x_4_GB)_DDR_II_SDRAM_Memory_Kit/KTH-XW800_8G/po/1532023

Is it possible to find a motherboard where these fit or should I just buy my own memory? Would save me some money if I can use these. Would appreciate your help. I'm new to the hardware world but want to learn.While you are waiting for a response from other CH members i would suggest that you contact Kingston and ask them your question. They should be able to answer it .truenorthPersonally i'd never build a system around RAM...whether it was free...or not.
I normally choose a CPU 1st ...then MBoard and so on.
Since it's SDRam it's a bit old and your probably better off auctioning it off to the highest bidder...

Just my opinion though.The sort of systems that used this RAM 5 or more years ago mainly seemed to be non-consumer workstation and server machines. The portion of a PC's cost which is spent on RAM is pretty small these days so why bother building a system around obsolete parts, as patio says.
I agree with Patio. Memory is the last thing I would base building a system around, even a server.

The memory you listed is specific to long since discontinued models of HP/Compaq Proliant SERVERS and is itself discontinued. New, it goes for $380-$569, depending on where you find it online. I didn't see any used, so I can't really say. Quote from: quaxo on May 05, 2011, 11:08:04 AM

New, it goes for $380-$569, depending on where you find it online.

I found it on a British site for 99 UK pounds which is about 160 US dollars

Since it's SDRam it's a bit old and your probably better off auctioning it off to the highest bidder...

Almost no motherboards will support this type of RAM.

Hi guys. Brand new here.

I have an ASTONE ISO Gear SL300 1TB external hard drive.

A few days ago, I accidently disconnected it while it was in use and I lost all my info. Upsetting  but ILL live as I can get most of it back.

Its telling me that I need to re format it again, which is also fine. However I can't do it with my laptop.

I connected it to a PC and it was able to format it, but when I try connecting to my laptop and transferring information over, it TAKES a ridiculously long time.

I then tried REFORMATTING again over not with my laptop but it didn't budge, not even 1%. Im thinking the issue is with my laptop itself.

Iv got eSATA and 3 USB2.0 connections on my laptop. (used them all, still no formatting)

Any solutions guys? That would be great. Thanks Reading your post there are some things that are not quite clear. If you format the external drive you will lose all the data that has been stored there. Do you understand that ?
It would seem that some damage was done to the external drive. However, it should not have been something so bad that it would prevent you from having access to the drive. This would suggest that perhaps the damage was not simply to the data that perhaps even physical damage or electrical damage to the cable. Is it possible for you to try another cable to look the external drive to the USB port on your computer?Im aware that I will lose all my data on it. Thats fine.

I have used an eSATA cable and a USB cable on 3 different USB ports. Same result, it doesn't format any of it.

Im TRYING AGAIN using the USB cable, doubt it will budge though.When it's connected to the laptop, it transfers slow. Have you tried transferring while connected to the PC to see if it's also slow? If it works perfectly fine while connected to the PC, that might rule out damage to the cable or the drive itself.

Hi,

a few days ago i bought a new motherboard: asrock gs 31 r2.0
the problem is, in my old motherboard i had two seagate drives of 750 gb in RAID 0. I thought it would be ok to just put everything in my new motherboard including the two seagate drives.
Turns out it wasn't a good idea. i needed some important files from my raid array but the new motherboard doesn't support raid. so i put everything back on my old motherboard to copy all files to a 1tb disk. when i booted, all i got was a bad cmos error. so i fixed it but when i booted all i got was a blinking underscore. i took my windows 7 dvd and booted to the recovery console and launched diskpart. it still recognizes my array: status: online, size: 1397 GB, free: 0 B. 0 bytes? when i pressed list volume i only get volume 0: ltr: C, Label: none, Fs: RAW, size: 698 GB. Any help is REALLY appreciated.

When you connected the two disk drives to the new motherboard, what else did you do? Did you try to install an OS onto one of them?
nope. i TRIED to boot once though and all i got was an error: "missing operating system"What was your old motherboard?I think it is an Acer mcp73e. Would it help if i just bought a raid CONTROLLER and place it on my new motherboard? The REASON you're having problems is that your old board had an Nvidia chipset whereas your new one has an Intel chipset.
You can normally migrate RAID arrays between similar chipsets, e.g. from an Intel ICH8R controller to an ICH10R controller, but not between manufacturers as you've tried.
You'll need to create a new RAID array on the new board, wiping the drives.  I'd advise backing up any data you need first, assuming you can still boot your old PC with those drives.Well that's just the problem, the new board board doesn't support RAID. and when i changed back to my old motherboard to backup data, it couldn't boot anymore. THANKS for your replies everbody. I just wiped the disks and tried to recover my data with RAID reconstructor and got around 90% back.Ah, of course, I forgot the ICH7 doesn't do RAID, sorry.
Unfortunately it can happen that way sometimes, once you try to boot off an array on a different board it can become corrupted especially with RAID 0.
Glad you got most of your data back at least.

i have put NEW batteries into my logitech wireless mouse and into this logitech wireless keyboard and still the cursor drags around or does not want to move/pick things up/put things down without a lot of yelling and clicking.   i looked at the options in the logitech setpoint site i have but i didn't understand any of it....so i changed NOTHING there.    it seems like this has happened before.....a long time ago....and there was some insanely simple fix  that i have , of course, forgotten.    can you help me What other ELECTRONIC devices are in proximity of the PC ? ?

Sometimes even a cordless phone will cause this....Also, check all of the settings for the mouse in the Lotitech Mouse And Keyboard Settings applet Quote from: patio on May 09, 2011, 05:57:39 AM

What other electronic devices are in proximity of the PC ? ?

Sometimes even a cordless phone will cause this....

Hello all.

Since yesterday i have a weird problem.

Pc is running WINDOWS 7 with 3 gb mem and was running 1 old ( ide )  HD and 2 sata hds + a sata Dvd.

When i boot up with all connected, windows takes 30 min to boot. Every action after that takes more then 10 min each to finish.

If i REMOVE all sata devices, since the old hd is the boot hd, windows starts up perfect.

Connecting one device, either one, to the sata connection that was even never used ( since i have 4, and 3 devices ) doesnt make any difference, windows boots like ****

Connected another old ide hd with the boot hd and all works good.

Memory is tested, and comes out ok.

power supply gives all normal readings.

When i connect all and go into bios, all devices ( incl all sata ) are found, so imo, the sata controller on the mobo aint broken? But when i try to boot, its slow as *****

Anyone a idea what to do?

thanks in advance. Have you tried re-installing your MBoard drivers from the CD that came with the machine ? ?

How is the BIOS reporting the SATA drives ? ?Bios shows all drives connected. After you asked i rebooted and connected all drives again.To look in Bios, as asked.  Even the ide one i didnt use for months.

Now i got :

Prim Ide Master : Ide drive with windows 7 on it
Prim Ide Slave   : 2nd old Ide Drive.
Sata 1 : samsung 500 gb
Sata 2 : Optiarc DVD
Sata 3 : samsung 500 gb
Sata 4 : Not used.

You know whats weird, i did a full reg scan and fix with Registry mechanic and after that i did the above.

Booted up like a charm, and all is working...

I dont get this. Why do i first get errors, trying 10 hours ~to get a fix going. And after a dumb reg cleanup all works again?

The drives dont respond slow no more as they used to and works O.o

Nice to see it works, still i dont get WHY... is it realy the reg fix that gave me the solution?

When this happened, i was gaming, WoW, and it STARTED to respond slower, laggy, froze up sometimes, got 2 screens of death.

I dont get this.

Hey folks, Simple problems should have simple solutions. Here it is. I have an older Sony digital camera that uses the small MINI CD's. I love this camera. It's a little bulky but it is versatile and takes a great pic. I've UPGRADED to a new (newer) laptop and it does not have a CD tray. Therefore I cannot load the Minis into the slot. I need a USB CD drive that can read the Minis. I have a XPS Studio 1640. Windows 7......blah,blah,blah. Right now I have to take my CD to work and load the pics on a flash drive. It's not that bad of an inconvenience but I would love to just have an external CD. Thanks in ADVANCE if you could poit me to a site where I can buy one that will work with windows 7. ..............Any external CD/DVD  with a try will work.
What laptop does not have a tray? Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 07, 2011, 10:19:40 PM

What laptop does not have a tray?

ASUS EeePCs, MacBook Airs, Acer Aspire Ones, Toshiba Minis, Dell Inspiron Duos, Acer Iconias... pretty much any laptop designed to be thin and light, any netbook, and most tablets.

Wow! I had no idea.

Wow! I had no idea. Anybody buying a notebook  take note.  Hard to believe. And the CD will get stuck inside and you can't get it out. IMO, poor design.

Wow! I had no idea. Anybody buying a notebook  take note.  Hard to believe. And the CD will get stuck inside and you can't get it out. IMO, poor design.

Hi all, I have a DVD-ROM. The ACTUALLY hardware on it is installed wrong. Because when I insert a game or cd, it actually, makes my computer freeze when I'm TYPING something. I know this because when I push the DVD-ROM drive in with my fingers I can type again. So when the dvd is inserted, the hardware actually vibrates really loud. I have a toshiba LAPTOP. I EVEN ordered this online and it sounds like it was installed wrong.

So from the sounds of it, it sound like the actually drive?Hardware vibrating, as in dvd/cd isnt correctly centered in the drive?

Looks like a faulty drive to me.

Warranty on it? YEA I still have warranty on it. I will need to give them a call. Yup faulty hard drive seems to be the case. It still installs the games and plays cds, but just vibrates like crazy. When you talk to "them" don't refer to this "faulty hard drive seems to be the case." . It is NOT the harddrive it is the dvd -rom drive (optical reader device".truenorth

Hello, CH
I have a bit of a problem. It's livable, but a MINOR nuisance.
I installed windows 7 32-bit on my Acer Aspire 5004WLMi, and everything works totally smoothly except for one thing: There are rippples of distortion going horizontally cross my monitor. I've ATTACHED an example to show you what I mean.

AMD Turion64 ML34 (1MB L2 Cache, 1.8 GHz)
15.4" WXGA Acer CrystalBrite TFT LCD Display
1GB DDR
INTEGRATED Graphics
The top "example" is the messed up one, as compared to normal, and the jagged spots on the line also display the problem

Looks like you're USING a resolution that isn't the native resolution of your screen. Set your screen resolution to 1280 x 800 and see if that clears it up.

I have a motherboard that has some holes/solder points where additional components could have been installed, but for some reason, during the manufacturing process, were not. In my case, one of these components is a PCI express slot. THEORETICALLY, if I were to solder a PCI express slot ONTO the motherboard, would it just work or would the BIOS not likely support it? My guess is that the BIOS is probably the same as the BIOS for the board which came with a PCIe slot (I am assuming there is one) so I think it would work. Am I right? This is just theoretical. I don't plan on actually adding a PCIe slot because it would be way too time consuming.If they out the connector, they would also leave out the chip that goes with nit. Do you have the model number of the mobo? Most likely it has a crippled chip set or is lacking another chip.

Just a guess. They started making some boards and they discovered the express slot was not working right. So they ran some early versions of the board without the connector and sold it as a board not having that feature. They give it a different model number.

Just a guess. Anybody out there would works in motherboard production please come here am tell US that never happens. Quote from: Linux711

Theoretically, if I were to solder a PCI express slot onto the motherboard, would it just work

this was un-modified 2001 pavilion 7966 (except for a DVD WRITER ADDITION) the Specs are 1.70 MHz Intel Pentium 4 with 512 megabyte RAMNo, your HP computer can't be overclocked.Your best bet for faster speed is to add more RAM.  Go to crucial.com and do their memory scan.

crucial.comthat sucks that i can`t Overclock my CPU (and i have plenty of ram but my task manager says 80% if not 100%) Quote

(and i have plenty of ram but my task manager says 80% if not 100%)

that sucks that i can`t Overclock my CPU (and i have plenty of ram but my task manager says 80% if not 100%)

How Can We Help You?
... Try this service which helps you to configure devices such as: ...  printers, scanners, MP3 players, digital cameras, etc. All this is done with our experts and VIA Internet. Connect to our ...  and get a free diagnosis. We will then connect to your computer over the Internet to repair your PC problem QUICKLY and easily.

    *  Configure
      Setup/Configure the following new devices iPod, printers, scanners, MP3 players, Digital cameras, etc.
    *  Diagnose
      Troubleshooting device issues such as printing, scanning, downloading, etc
    *  Fix
      Repair device issues that are not related to hardware
    *  Update
      Update drivers/firmware for those devices and upgrade applications for using those devices
    * Teach
      Educate users about how to use digital devices c.... blah, blah  blah.

OK...I had a hard drive failure, however the data was recovered and put on a dvd.  i then had a new hard drive installed and reinstalled the XP os from factory RECOVERY disks.  My question is..how do I now get all the saved data to the new hard drive?  There are 6115 files...is there any way to "save all". It depends on how the data was saved...what program did you USE ? ?
If you look at the DVD in Explorer is the file STRUCTURE still there ? ? i.e. folders , documents etc ? ?

If it is you may want to TRY using the Files and Settings TRANSFER Wizard which is built into XP.

Here Ya Go...

ok so this morning i go to turn my computer on and after i signed in, it loaded my desktop for 5 seconds before the screen went crazy and made some weird streaks. I restarted the computer and same thing, some weird different coloured diagnol streaks, thinking it was my gpu i took it out and put ANOTHER one in and everything loaded up fine. but that gpu(fx 5200) is old and the one i had in there before(7600gt) is the one i need for games so i put it back in expecting the streaks again but this time everything loaded up fine. also the fx 5200 was very hot when i took it out but had only been running a few minutes. i have no idea what happened but i am wondering what those streaks are and should i try to return the 7600gt or what...any help is appreciatedCould it be that your gpu which is a 7600gt is not seated firmly?

What is your mobo's brand and specifications and also the OS that you're using... if I may ask? um i have an asus p4p8x SE w/ p4 2.8ghz,1024mb pc2700 ddr ram( http://www.asus.com/products.aspx?l1=3&l2=12&l3=32&model=183&modelmenu=1 ) and windows xp sp 2.Well, first check if your 7600gt gpu is seated firmly in its slot. If your able to boot it up to windows and signed in, check if its PROPERLY installed. If not you can boot in safe mode and check your videocard.well it appears to be fine now, last night i over clocked it and turned the fan SPEED up a bit maybe the fan made it vibrate out of the slot ever so SLIGHTLY? i have no clue but its not overclocked anymore, and i hope the card isn't defective and wont stay in the slot or something cause its a great card. thanks for the help.

What does error code 0458 Meanwhen does this error code appear?

It says in your subject, "western digital 200EB HARDDRIVE" so I TRIED googling it and this is what i  found:

http://support.wdc.com/techinfo/general/errorcodes.asp

Don't know if this would be of help but, you haven't gave us information aside from what you posted..I used ubcd diagnostic tool it showed error 0458 it MEANS the harddrive is bad.  Now I need to copy off some files from the winxp harddrive to a win98.  Do you have any clue how to do it.

thanks

Paddy GreenWelcome to the CH forums.

You better start by giving us some INFO about what kind of system(s) we're trying to look at.   Do you mean two pc's, one RUNNING XP the other Win.98, laptops or desktops etc....?

Please read this

And the names of what diagnostics you ran from the UBCD as well.
That's a powerful tool that when mis-used can cause havoc if you aren't familiar with what the processes do...

I am having to get one or the other of these to computers cause this is where i have credit so if someone could tell me which on is better and why i would be very grateful thanks.
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=8195033

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=8586833
robrowowboski,I am afraid i shall be not answering your question as directly as you probably would like. However i am giving my comment as the current USER of 2 HP computers (granted not as current as the 2 you are considering). You will find that with HP they tend to be QUITE proprietary as to what will work in their products and what won't. For example (unless they have changed) their power supplies are unique and cannot be swapped for other generic brands .And if you ever did need to replace a power SUPPLY theirs are much more expensive and not everyone carries them.I have found this to be the case with other internal hardware as well.Now whether Wally offers any other brands i do not know.Maybe if you can delay your purchase and open up your options that might be something you want to concider.good luck,truenorthrobrowbroski...

You'll probably get a lot of differing opinions on this one.

Truenorth makes a good point...while I do know some people who absolutely love their HPs there are those who don't...

However...if you can't find something else, like truenorth recommends...and you're stuck between choosing one of the two you've presented us...

Let me ask you this:  What will you be using this computer for?

One of them has an AMD dual core processor, while the other has an Intel dual core.  There are those who swear by the both of them...and both of them are equally fast.

One has 2 GB memory...and the other 1GB.  One has a larger hard drive than the other.  One uses integrated onboard video, while the other has a separate card.

If it were me...I'd go with the one that has the bigger hard drive nd more memory.  Though it's graphics are integrated...you can always upgrade down the LINE.  It'll also perform better than the one that has less memory.

There's not much DIFFERENCE in price, too.  So it's really a no-brainer...but hey...it's your decision.

I'd also wait to see if you get more replies to this thread before making a decision...and not just jump into the purchase...okay?

Best of luck to ya...

So that's my opinioni am not a fan of prebuilt comps, but if you have to choose between the two, i would go for the slimline.

reasons being:

-slighty faster CPU
-better integrated video
-larger harddriveok thanks i think im gonna go qith the slim line one because if i get the warranty and the power supply goes out they will have to replace it there selfNeither has a dedicated graphics card, the second one will run Vista better because it has more RAM and a much more capable integrated chip.  However, if you want the full experience of Vista, neither will do you very well, unless you upgrade the graphics card.
This will be harder to do in the slimline PC, however that PC is better in other respects.

I've just found out that I don't have a vertex shader and for a certain game to work it it NEEDS to be at least 1.1

I'm on a laptop so I don't really know/want to have to buy a new graphics card.

This is the only thing on the min spec that failed, as attached.



Can ANYONE help?

Thanks,

JimOn a laptop you NORMALLY don't have a choice for video upgrades...
You didn't MENTION what game. Quote from: PATIO on March 03, 2008, 06:31:41 PM

On a laptop you normally don't have a choice for video upgrades...
You didn't mention what game.

I bought an HP a1224n about two years ago. Not much has changed in this thing since I bought it, except I swapped out the burner a year ago, and that's it.

About three weeks ago, we had a lightning storm (hey, it's Illinois) and the next morning, the old HP would not turn on. Even though it's hooked up to a (cheap and cheesy) surge protector, I assumed the storm had somehow fried the power supply. I replaced the PSU with a brand new model, a StarTech 300 watt. Computer worked like a dream.

Fast forward to now, approximately two weeks later. I come home from work and my wife tells me the computer is not working again. Seems my four year LOCKED it up in the middle of playing Lightning McQueen. The computer sat locked up for a while (ten minutes, one hour....who knows) when it all of a sudden shut down. . It hasn't spoken to me again since.

I've pulled open the case and I'm sitting here next to it. I have checked and rechecked every CONNECTION possible, pulled each ram board individually, etc. etc. Anyway, the only thing I get in RESPONSE when I plug it back into the wall socket is about a 1/4 turn from the processer heat sink fan, and that's it. Believe me, I've checked the power switch, its connection, so forth and so on.

Okay, here's where I need you folks....I just can't believe the coincidence that this power supply went bad. And we did not have another storm, which now I don't think caused the problem in the first place (sorry Mr. Lightning, my bad).

I have no problems sending this PSU back and getting a fresh one, but should I assume that it too, will end up in PSU heaven? Is it possible I have a larger motherboard issue?

Talk to me. Thanks.Lightning will wreak havoc on a computer...

Yes there is the strong possibility that you may have damaged something else.

Take a close look at the motherboard to see if there are any swollen or damaged capacitors.  If so...time for a new motherboard.  If not, hopefully you can try another PSU and this may fix the problem.

One more thing...don't rely on a surge protector to prevent damage to a computer from a direct hit by lightning.  They're not made for that.  During a lightning storm...always unplug your computer from its electrical power source and disconnect any phone or cable CONNECTIONS.  Yes...lightning can travel through these as WELL.Thanks for the feedback.

There are no damaged capacitors apparent. Since the first PSU replacement worked fine, and there was no indication of lightning activity the second time, it seems to me that lightning was not the culprit.

I will replace the PSU, but what's to say it won't fail again in two weeks? I guess what my additional question means is, is it even technically possible that there is an internal or external force that is frying the PSU that perhaps I should look at? Would the previous PSU have worked if I was faced with a blown capacitor?

Thanks.There is always the possibility of a bad new PSU.

Maybe you had the'street1' luck. I am famous for
getting the bad apple from the barrel when I buy
a new part.I just finished putting in a new PSU. It works fine. Except that my PCI video card fried itself when I plugged it in. I called Antec and they said there must have been something wrong with the video card. It was, in fact, a virtually brand new EGA GeForce 6200 (I believe).

That video card was not in when the first PSU failed. Interesting.

Anyway, I'm using the onboard video (a whopping 8MB) chip which is doing the trick for now. I suppose I'll have to contact EGA and tell them....well, I don't know what I'm going to tell them, but I'll give it a shot.

It was a PCI video card, not a PCI-E. Nothing was connected to it.

I'll keep you posted about the power supply issue.Wow...when it rains, it pours, huh?

Sorry to hear about hte video card.  Hopefully you can get a replacement at no or minimal cost.

I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope your new PSU doesn't cause you any more issues.What PSU's are you buying ? ?patio...

This is the first one he purchased as a replacement for the first one:  a StarTech 300 wattThere are $20.00 StarTech's and a same name Star Tech for $180.00 .....this is why i asked.

I have two 80Gb hard DRIVES but I need ROOM for a 85Gb FILE. My first hard drive has windows on it (about 50Gb left) and my second hard drive is USED to back-up my Documents: Pictures, music, etc (about 60Gb left). Is it possible to simulate a 100Gb hard drive using the lelft over room on my two 80Gb hard drives?Nope.
An 85G file is pretty huge....what is it for ? ?harley642006,Without knowing the nature of this huge file and it type of use this suggestion may or may not be applicable.Can you not compress the file to a more maneable size for STORAGE?truenorthyou can setup your harddrives in a RAID 0 setup, assuming your mobo can handle a RAID array and assuming your fine having both of your harddrives reformatted.TrueNorth... It is already compressed.

Homer... My puter supports RAID 0, so I will look at this option

Thank you guys for the info...

Hello,

I have a strange problem, which might be caused by some hardware limitation, or
by my ignorance in USB protocol (I have no advanced knowledge in USB).

I need to read keys from a USB device (some kind of keyboard). When doing it
under Windows 2000/XP, everything is fine. When doing it under GNU/Linux though,
I always get a timeout, even though by ignoring the timeout I get the data
right (but it doesn't always work, it VARIES according to the kernels and
architectures used). After trying everything I could think of, I finally
decided to dive into intimate USB protocol by snooping over raw USB
communications. For that, I used the snoop feature in usbcore [1].
I wrote a simple program that initializes the USB device, read keys for 10
seconds, and terminates. I first ran the program on a Windows virtual machine,
and as expected the keys were right. I then compiled and ran the same program
on GNU/Linux, and as expected, I got nothing else than timeouts. Then I went to
compare the logs: the working one, and the non-working one. Codes don't seem to
be tampered with in any way; the only real difference seems to lie in a subtle
difference at the beginning (interrupt urb instead of urb complete).
From this point I'm stuck: I have no idea whether they are correct regarding to
the standard. I have no way to force some kind of trick to simulate the working
one from GNU/Linux, as it would probably mean tampering with the kernel (even
for testing purpose, I am not exactly CONFIDENT). Therefore I have no choice
but to try my luck at finding SOMEONE who would be willing to dive into the
gory details below and hint me about what's hapenning :-P

Configuration on Windows (virtual machine):
- Windows XP (no service pack)
- AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual (only 1 core used, virtual machine)   2.51 GHz
- 256 Mb of RAM

Configuration on GNU/Linux (real machine):
- OpenSuse 10.2, kernel 2.6.24.2 (last version, not PATCHED, downloaded from kernel.org)
- AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual (2 cores used)   2.51 GHz
- 1 Gb of RAM
- USB chipset: USB Controller: nVidia Corporation MCP51 USB Controller (rev a3)

The above configurations are the ones I used for testing, but the timeouts
problem occurs on other machines and other FLAVOURS of GNU/Linux (including a
2.4 kernel on an arm processor). Windows seems to always work though (2000 and
XP tested).

Log obtained from Windows: http://wotan.homelinux.com/vbremaud/usb_win32.log

Log obtained from GNU/Linux (truncated in the middle): http://wotan.homelinux.com/vbremaud/usb_linux.log

[1] http://www.linuxjournal.com/node/7582The problem is solved: it was a difference of behavior between Linux and Windows kernels.
If a buffer of 32 bytes is provided for reading and only 8 bytes are available, the Windows kernel will provide the 8 bytes and return 8 as the number of bytes read. The Linux kernel will wait for aditional data, won't get any, and therefore return a timeout. Plain and simple...

Thanks to people who read

Hi,

I wonder if i could get some help here.

My aim here is to be able to get the PC to re-start itself after the power FAILURE. At the moment, it'd be off until someone has to actually press the start button. I had a quick search on the internet and suspect it might be to do with BIOS configuration. I was trying to LOOK for a option called "re-start after power failure" in the power management setup in BIOS but to no avail. Am i looking at the right PLACE?

Here is the list under Power Management Setup
1. ACPI standby state   -   S3(STR)
2. Reset on AC/Power loss  -   Poweroff
3. Resume on Ring    -    DISABLED
4. Resume on PME    -    Disabled

Thank you in advanceassociates,http://www.sophisticated.com/support/faq/faq_current.html truenorth Quote from: associates on March 03, 2008, 04:24:37 PM

... I was trying to look for a option called "re-start after power failure" in the power management setup in BIOS but to no avail. Am i looking at the right place?

Here is the list under Power Management Setup
1. ACPI standby state   -   S3(STR)
2. Reset on AC/Power loss  -   Poweroff
3. Resume on Ring    -    Disabled
4. Resume on PME    -    Disabled

hello again... once more i've discovered a problem which i'm unable to fix myself.  i recently loaded a game onto my wife's laptop, and the patches are un-defragable using my AusLogics defrag app.  The hard drive shows 20.39 GB used and 13.71 GB free, and the files which i cannot defrag are 3.57 GB, 817 MB, 465 MB, 432 MB, and 692 MB.  i've already gone through and deleted everything i could, and i don't understand why none of these files can be defrag'd with 13GB free... any help you can give me, as always, is greatly appreciated.

it's a Dell Inspiron running XP SP2, and the swap FILE is at the max now as i read somewhere else that that might help, but it didn't.  i think it's at 4095 MB or something like that.  not sure what other info you would need on this.  oh, and Disk Cleanup showed something minimal like 800 kb that could be cleaned.  i'm pretty strict on my defrag schedule, and was very displeased when my defrag after game installation and patching showed 17.59% defragmentation after many runs and deleting everything i could find that could be deleted.  before game installation and patching, it was probably somewhere AROUND 0.12% defragmentation, and if possible i'd like to return it to something near that without having to delete our game.  THANKS in advance for any advice you can give me on this.Some files, like swap file can't be defragged.um... but i'm not trying to defrag the swap file.3.57GB part, which can't be defragged, looks like a right size for swap file.i must be misunderstanding the term, then.  i thought the swap file was Windows' virtual memory allocation.  so, if i can't defrag the big file, what's up with the smaller ones? Quote

i thought the swap file was Windows' virtual memory allocation

i read somewhere that if your system can't defrag it might mean you have too little virtual memory

which is 4095 MB

I am looking for a USB TV Turner with the fallowing SPECS??

I need it to have a Coaxle Jeck and the 3. RCA Jecks.

I found one by Pinicale but when I looked at the REVIEWS for it everybody says it looked up there PC and did not work well.
I found everybodys PC whent goofffy when the used it.

So I looed at Sabrant.......and the Support was e mail bassed and the never e mailed me back  so I had to return it.

This is what I need a USB TV Turner that have a Jeck for a Coaxle Cable Input  and 3 RCA Jecks Inputs you know Composite Jecks.

And GOOD Support  and around 100.00$ USAnymph4, check out these guys  http://www.hauppauge.com/html/products.htm they are heavy into that kind of stuff.have used their products very good phone support. i believe they are located in NJ USA.truenorth

Well something is going on with this new system. Hi, I’m having a problem with the video card and can only get windows to boot up in safe mode. I can get it in normal mode but only with the display driver disabled and only to have a (Rundll32) STOPPED working message in windows. If I enable the video card and reboot it doesn’t boot into windows normal just the waiting bar then nothing. The monitor shuts off. I restart it again and go into safe mode then disable the video card and reboot and I’m in normal windows but I have no video card and I kind of need it. I’ve reinstalled vista, I have all the up to DATE drivers. What’s going on?

System specs
MB: MSI AM2 K9A2 Platinum 790FX
RAM: Corsair Dominator PC2-8500 4x1GB DDR2
CPU: AMD Phenom 9500 2.2G
VIDEO: EVGA e-GeForce 8800 GTX 768MB DDR3
PS: Raidmax 420W and a new separate power supply (not sure if I like this or not) e-Power Juice box ep-350 (350W)

Thanks
Wes
[email protected]

email addy removed to prevent SPAM

Requirements
 Minimum of a 450 Watt power supply.
(Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 30 Amp Amps.) 


http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=768-P2-N831-ARYeah....I got a new power supply(550W) on the way. Looks like I goofed when I order this e-power power supply. I am going to have two video cards eventually and wonder if 550W is enough for this. Or can I use this alternate power supply to power anything to help out?550w will not be enough for two 8800 GTX's. i RECOMMEND at least a 750W.I got windows to fire up and all I did was change my monitor cable from my DVI-D that I was using to the regular VGA. What's up with that?

I suddenly started getting this error when trying to boot up my computer.  I have made no changes to the pc, it was working fine and this suddenly started.  The error appears and then the pc asks if I want to start in Safe mode, etc.  When picking any option it reboots and starts the whole process over again.  I can never get past this.

Have searched for this error but only find to disable the ONBOARD PROMISE controller - no effect.

I have a k8vse mobo. XP. Maxtor HD.


Any ideas?
Will it boot to safemode ? ?
If so do that and re-install your MBoard drivers...
Also re-install your drivers for the RAID CARD if you are using one.No, it will not boot to any of the options. Safe Mode, last known configuration...

I am not using RAID.  I have initially tried to reinstall windows (before I did more research) and doing a repair on windows did not even complete.  I might try to get into DOS and see if I can do a reinstall of the MB drivers from there.If you had a failed repair install you had best backup any data you need because a clean install of XP is the only option to get out of this mess.
Hook up your drive as a slave in another machine and get it while you can...the further you try to RECOVER from this the further away your data gets.

Hey guys

My COMPUTER started making an odd noise one day, I LOOKED inside and noticed that the fan on the MB was running slow.   I shut the computer off and dusted it out, but it still ran slow.     I found this image on the internet which is the exact fan i have.....




Is it possible to repair this?  or will it have to be replaced, if so how much does one usually cost?


Also, as i was looking for images I saw the same fan removed and it looked like it had GLUE on the bottom.   Will I be able to repair it myself, or will I have to take it into a shop and get it fixed?you are better off replacing. Fans are generally inexpensive. Call you local computer shop for prices. The stuff on the bottom that looks like glue is on every heatsink and helps to draw heat away from your processor.definitely easy to replace and CHEAP... if you want a quick fix, sometimes a tiny drop of QUALITY bike oil or sewing machine oil fixes the problem for a few months... but if it's been removed and the heatsink 'glue' damaged, you're probably best off buying a new one.

Woof Woof from PUPPY Linux Land...

The manual shows J33 as having 4 pins, the real J33 has 3.

The manual shows the adjacent JP4 as having 3 pins, the real JP4 has 4.

Can SOMEONE authoritatively SUPPLY the correct pinouts?  Many thanks...

I've got this laptop recently, and it's been running great, very fast and no problems with audio or anything of the sort, until recently when the audio started glitching, and switching between normal speed and much lower speed, and the laptop overall has just been running a lot slower,

I've got a 200gb hard drive with around 20GB free, 2gb of RAM and an intel pentium dual core with twin 1.86ghz processors.

Audio has it's moments when it runs fine, but when I open more things it tends to glitch a lot, and things like iexplore.exe seem to be taking up more than they should do in task manager.

I've ran scans on Norton, Spybot, Ad Aware and AVG, all to no avail other than a few minor TRACKING cookies which are gone now and the problem still persists.

Anyone have any ideas? Just been suggested fans running slowly so I'll check that but I'm not too hopeful it's that. Any help is greatly appreciated.What power SCHEME is the laptop using?

In XP you can check it by right clicking the Desktop
select properties
select Screen Saver and click the button CALLED Power...

It's all on full power, got it plugged in at the moment and it has a Toshiba power scheme program with everything set to full on it,

Fans seem to be working fine, can't think what's wrong  Just done another spyware and malware scan, still nothing.

No-one got ANY ideas? Everything seems to work fine until I open a few things, but I could run demanding games whilst still listening to music fine a couple of days AGO, I don't see why internet explorer should make my audio glitch

I'm trying to print 2 11/32" x 3 3/8" labels using Avery Print or Write Name Badge Labels on a 4x6 sheet but I can't figure out how to print them.  I have a Canon MP130 printer and I'm using Microsoft Word.  I'm not sure how to adjust the printer tray so that it prints 4x6 sheets.  Or do I have to adjust that in Word? I am using a Mac if that makes any difference.  If someone could please help asap, that would be greatly appreciated!Are  you using 07 or 03 word ver?I'm using Microsoft Word X for Mac.  THANKS for HELPING!  SORRY thought that you were talking about word 07.  I'm just learning it and have figured out printing labels and stuff.

I have a Q/A about Wi Fi and I don't have one or use one?

If I wanted to have my Laptop conect to the internet but I did not want to have my Laptop pluged into the phone jeck and have to stay in one place I would get a Wi Fi Tranmiter.

So I would plug the Wi Fi Transmiter into my phone jeck and and put a Wi Fi Card into my Laptop.

So the Wi Fi Transmiter would then Transmit a WIRELESS signal to my Laptop and connect my Laptop to the phone Jeck and the internet.

I get how all of this works but one thing?

I my somebody in the NEXT house has a Wi Fi Transmiter in there house I can just buy a Wi Fi Card and put it into my Laptop and just connect onto the Wi Fi Signal coming from next door I get this to.

But weather I connect to my Wi Fi Transmiter or to someone elses Wi Fi Transmitter can someone  huck on to my connection to still information about me or things like that??

Something was on the news about that and I did not understand it.You should REALLY use the Spell Check feature nymph4. I can barely understand parts of your post, but here goes.

First of all how are you currently connected to the internet?
Dial-up modem, Cable, DSL, ADSL, etc...

Quote from: nymph4 on March 01, 2008, 11:12:27 AM

But weather I connect to my Wi Fi Transmiter or to someone elses Wi Fi Transmitter can someone  huck on to my connection to still information about me or things like that??

Something was on the news about that and I did not understand it.

Hi,

Just out of nowhere my monitor will just have lines LIKE grayish see through lines all over the monitor, then after about 5 minutes of this it goes away. I could be PLAYING a game and this happens, I could be surfing it happens. This is infact the monitor since I've tried it out two COMPUTERS and the same THING happens. The monitor is a Dell M783s (plug and play) Any help would be greatly appreciated Dell provides a monitor driver---->Here

I wasn't sure where to post this but I figured this was the place.  I'd be glad to get some assistance.

I have an Athlon 3200+, WINDOWS XP SP2, 768 MB RAM (DDR 333), 80 Gig SATA HDD, and a DVD Writer

So here's what happened, I use this machine as a media center, its hooked up to my tv.  I got these TWO old hard drives back from my friend asking me if I could have a look at them, so I open up the case on that computer and plug the two hard drives in, they're an 80 and a 60 gig and they CONNECT through IDE.  I plug them in but the computer won't start up.  As in, I get the BIOS Image, you know that screen for the motherboard that you get, whatever picture it is, but I can't get into the BIOS and it won't go any further.  Just hangs.

So I unplug the drives, and it still hangs.  Finally I also unplug the IDE Cable itself, and for some reason BIOS loads and the system boots up.  Okay fine, so I figured I'll just put the cable in and plug the drives in while in Windows.  When I plug in the cable suddenly the system shuts off and since then I've been getting that Mobo image screen hanging and the computer hasn't loaded since.   

I unplugged almost all other cables, the SATA cables and such.  I've reset the BIOS twice and nothing seems to work.  I just wanna know whats going on because I just built the computer and I don't want it to go down after only 2 months just because I wanted to plug a few drives in.

Thanks for all the help.you REALLY shouldn't mess with the insides of a computer while it's on, as you've probably already guessed. you MAY have fried the motherboard and you MAY have to buy a new one. i say MAY because i am not into hardware as much as software and can't really tell you for sure. i'm just guessing here. But it's an educated guess so don't completely blow it off. it might also help to give more info, like motherboard version etc. Hope you get it fixed.

I have a custom made AMD Athlon 2.0 gigahertz PC with Windows XP Pro SP 2. I have an ATI Radeon 9200 graphics card installed. I just installed a new CPU fan after finding out the other one wasn't working. Before that, I was trying to reinstall Windows XP. My problem is that, when I turn on my computer, the screen is completely BLANK, no BIOS or anything. Also, the computer won't turn off by just pushing the power button. I have to either hold on it or unplug it. All the fans work except one small fan that seems to be connected directly to the motherboard. All the lights turn on. I can't figure it out.check and make sure that you ATX connector is connected all the WAY in.
Is CPU inserted properly?
The ATX connector is all the way in and the CPU is inserted properly but still doesn't work.It sounds to me that your PSU is failing/failed.   I've just had a failure and the 'no screen-  won't turn off' symptoms are identical.

I upped my PSU rating by 160watts to 620watts.  Working OK now. It's POSSIBLE that it is the PSU. I'll try and borrow a power supply and SEE if that helps.I replaced the motherboard upon suggestion of a relative but it still didn't work. So i got a new power supply and only after it arrived and i put it in the case did i FIND out that the new motherboard required two power ribbons(or whatever they're called) to be connected to it, and i only had one plugged in. I didn't know this because the old one only needed one power ribbon. I connected the other one, and it worked! I don't know if it was motherboard or power supply or both, but it's completely fixed now!

My BROTHER gave me his old graphics card because my NVIDIA Quadro2 Pro is really out of date. I uninstalled the NVIDIA drivers, PUT in my new card and now my computer will not POST and the monitor will just go to SLEEP even though the computer is running. I actually am not sure of the specific type of card it is. I know it is an ATI Radeon Series, and it is probably either an X600,X700 or X800.

I am running a Dell Precision Workstation 550 with Windows XP Home SP2. Try reseating the MEMORY and your videocard... Take it out first and then reseat it..

I have purchased a used HP Designjet 600 PLOTTER. It CAME with an old parallel cable, and I want to hook it up to my new computer. Can someone TELL me exactly which cable I need to buy? (and where might I PURCHASE it?) Can it be plugged in to a USB port?
Thanks!!You can easily connect a parallel printer to your computer using the right cable:  http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=471

Hope this helps...Thanks!!  That is a GREAT help!  You're more than WELCOME...glad I could help.