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JUST INSTALLED NEW MOTHERBOARD AND HARDDRIVE NEED HELP GETTING PUTER TO WORK.it  is a hp 524w the new hd is a maxtor 160 gig the mb is a ecs elite group rs482-m754. i thought i would make my puter faster by changing these parts .because the harddrive FAILED i took it out and pitched it. also processor is 2gig. basicly just trying to take parts and make a computer.guess i dont know as much as i thought.please help a computer illiterate person if you can.THANKSparis, welcome to the CH forums.i respond to your request for help only at this POINT to assist you to receive the help you seek.You have omitted sooooo much information that it is highly unlikely that you will receive anything that will assist you with your actual problems (whatever they may be). At this point we do not have a clue. Tells us MUCH more re the details that caused you to make your cry for help. Details of the computer,operating system, components (PARTICULARLY the ones you feel are your problem),what is happening (or not happening) when you try to run the computer,if it is a replacement (s) hardware what was there before,why did you change it. While there may well be many other questions to follow this should GET you STARTED and will more than likely get some of the great people on CH to try and give you the help you seek. truenorth

Dell Dimension 2000
Celeron 2.6 GHz
1.25GB RAM
XP Home

MP3s work fine, but when I play audio CDs the sound is terrible, as if the music is playing UNDERWATER. I recently increased the COMPUTER's RAM from 256MB to 1.25GB, and it didn't help. I have two disc drives, a Samsung CD-RW and an I/OMagic DVD-RW. The problem occurs no matter which drive I use. Any thoughts? Thanks.

(Added a few minutes later) I've TRIED different players too -- WMP and XMPlay -- and it happens on both.Hi there

Run DXdiag (it's in C:/Windows/system32)

CLICK on the sound tab then 'test direct sound' see if you can find anything...

Also, download & install PCwizard 2008.

When you have installed it, have a POKE around to see if you can see anything untoward.Also (should have asked this first) is all other sound ok on your system? can you hear music online etc?neljan,

Thanks very much for the suggestions. I'll try them both.

Online audio plays fine, as do video clips (including sound). It's only CDs and DVDs that don't work.

Thanks again.Keep us informed...

Hi There,
I have a Compaq Presario SR 1619 and I wish to use two monitors so I have more screen workspace but I've noticed that there is only one monitor socket in the back of the tower. What do I need to buy to let me use another monitor? is it just an ADAPTOR or do I need to get another socket put in? If so is this something I can do myself or do I need it installed professionally?
Many Thanks.You are going to need a second video card to INSTALL in the machine. The installation is relatively simple, but if you aren't comfortable working inside you PC you might PREFER to have a pro install it. I normally don't recommend Best Buy, but they will install the card for free if you buy it from them usually.Thanks so much for the help, I'll look into it.I found three versions of the Compaq Presario SR1619 listed on HP's website.  I did not look at the specs on all three, just the Compaq Presario SR1619IT.  According to the specs >here<, you have a PCI Express x16 graphics and you have 3 PCI slots.  So, you could, as TheEmperor suggested, add a second video card in a PCI slot, or you could replace your PCI Express x16 graphics card with one that supports two monitors.  The second option has an advantage of not having to install device drivers for two different video cards.

This may have to go into software rather than hardware but i will ask it here FIRST if thats ok.
Cutting a long story short, i need the advanced settings of POSTSCRIPT options whilst using Adobe illustrator (mainly to print in Negative format).
To get a neg format takes about 9 or 10 steps inside of the postscript dialog box to get what i need, is there anyway to set advance postscript features as DEFAULT or are the 10 steps necessary each and EVERY time i print?
(i can set up paper size, source tray,orientation, etc etc as a custom setting but the advanced features revert each time i print.)
Please help, the paper i use is £1.00 a sheet and i am wasting alot of it by forgetting to alter the settings each time.

can ANYONE tell me if i can get a USB adapter for an old computer with ISA expansion slots?I think you're out of luck on that one. The USB specs only cover PCI bus interfaces. NEVER heard of a STANDARD for a non PCI USB CONTROLLER.

But good luck with your hunt.

Thanks Dusty ... HOPE the sun shines tomorrow!  Nusa

my computer does not recognise my HARDRIVE which is SATA but it still recognises the IDE hardrive can you HELP me PLEASE?

thanks

deltalimeInstall SATA drivers for it...they can be found at your MBoard manuf. website.

Hi, I have an old comp, Asus A7A266 mobo AMD Athlon 1050 CPU 512 mb Ram. I was given this comp & told the HDD was dead. I TOOK the hdd out & tried it in my USB caddy. It was dead as it was not even recognised ( but was spinning). I installed an old (but good) HDD in that I had, & tried to boot up. Now all I get is a POST then it goes into BIOS with a warning     'System intruded, chassis opened or TEMPERED (sic) Check system.' OK?. There is no 'chassis opened' switch fitted so why the warning? Can this be reset/deleted?  CMOS battery renewed. I'm trying to boot with my XP disc, but it never gets as far as the cdrom spinning up, just back to POST. Boot sequence is set to CDROM first. I have a new DVDRw that I can hook up temporarily if it is poss that the cdrom is faulty, but I don't think that is the issue. The HDD I am using is only 2.1 Gb, (just to be sure it boots) before buying a (bigger) new drive to install if I can get the system running. So, this is the scenario, Power up, POST screen with mem test running, skip mem test, goes into BIOS, Chassis opened warning, OK, F10 to exit BIOS, back to POST!!!! Am I doing SOMETHING wrong? Or is there a fault somewhere? Please help! Alex

i got a problem that is my USB has malfunction.... it can't DETECTED any device when i connect to it.....can someone tell me what to do..??Need...more...info...gasp 

Operating system / antivirus & antispyware protection / service packs INSTALLED / when did it start happening / did it ever work right / installed any new software?

Alan <><  Have you tried useing the other ports?  Did you try a know good usb device?  Operating system / antivirus & antispyware protection / service packs installed / when did it start happening / did it ever work right / installed any new software?

Alan <>< 
[/quote]



I'm using

-win XP
-Kaspersky anti-virus...just install
-"service packs installed"... not sure..??
-it HAPPEN recently when my sister used the comp..
-b4 it malfuntion... it work fine...

other HAND i already tried other ports the result is the same..
open Windows Explorer and click on Help/About Windows and REPORT what it says...maybe your computer USB not working try another one, or it is Infected with virus that's why your USB  is corrupted and it doesnot work, doesnot recognized.

Yes i was orignally using a IDE 120 gig hard drive but i ran outta room so i decided to buy a seagate 320 gig sata hard drive, when POPPED it in and installed it as additional STORAGE, my loading time was NUTS, it took about 2 minutes to get past motherboard loading and it took about 3 - 4 minutes to load the windows xp past the logo screen, after that it ran fine just the boot times were driving me nuts, then my cousin let me use his 320 gig ide hard drive with all of mine and now it works fine.

so in short i
1. add sata hard drive (boot times slowed way down)
2. add cousins 320 ide hard drive to it (made it run normal again

i took his hard drive out again and it does the same thing so is there a PROBLEM with my sata drive, i was just wondering because i cant even install xp on it without it giving me the "ntldr missing" this makes me confused please help! and thank you:P
oh and my set up now is 1 ide 120 gig hard drive, 1 320 gig seagate sata hard drive, and 1 IDE 320 gig hard drive.Did you install the SATA drivers for that drive ? ?
They are available on your MBoard drivers CD or at the MBoard manuf. website...im pretty sure i did:P and then i would like to figure out WHY i get the 'missing ntldr" when i install a clean copy of xp on my sata..

this is my first time in a forum and english is not my native language ,sorry for any mistakes.

i need to CONECT a MONITOR SHARP LQ150X1D to a DESKTOP VGA outputIs the monitor DVI? I think you can buy a DVI to VGA adapter. I believe you can buy one online for about $15. If that is what you are looking for. HOPE this helps!You need to tell us what the problem is before we can advice you.

the other day i tured on my dell laptop and noticed on the screen that there was a transparent thick, reddish tinted line running vertically. here is a picture:

http://i27.tinypic.com/11c8vo8.jpg

the line is really starting to annoy me, can anyone tell me how to fix it? thanks  Maybe make sure you have the LATEST video driver. More info on please.
Like the model number of the laptop, how old it is, did you notice ANYTHING strange prior to the start of the PROBLEM, have you installed or removed any hardware or done anything else that might have caused it?
Is the red line visible from the MOMENT you turn on the laptop?

Hello,

I had a non-system disk installed on my computer, NTFS formatted, ~75 GB. I had to disconnect it, and then when I reconnected it, it was not recognized. After fiddling around with the computer management console, it FINALLY recognized it, but through my efforts, I seem to have corrupted something, boot sector, or partition table, or something, because now it is inaccessible. If I click on it, it WANTS me to format it.

Using VARIOUS software on the web, I have basically ascertained that it is now comprised of an unknown partition of 74.5 GB, and an unallocated partition of 2.49 MB.

Any advice on how to REPAIR this problem, WITHOUT paying?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.Try using Disk Manager.... but its an Seagate Software

Hi,

A friend of mine gave me an old computer to get running for her. It was a no name brand and had win98 on it originally with 128mb ram. She tried to install XP home vers 2002 on it but never activated it. I got it activated and loaded. It had a CONFLICT between the ethernet card and the sound card so i removed the sound card and was ABLE to connect it to the INTERNET. After 100 updates it finally had current software incl xp service pack 2 and IE7. Now here is the problem.
The proccesor is a AMD K-64 400 Mhz. I put in 1 256mb pc100 ram stick and 2 128mb pc100 ram sticks for a total of 512K of ram. It WOULD seem like that would be enough memory but whenever i go online, (cable CONNECTION at 6Mmbs through a router), the cpu usage is 100% and IE7 is using 90 to 95 % of that constantly and the pages load up like slow dialup. I even tried downloading a small movie clip and when i tried it in media player it played back very choppy and media player was doing the same thing 90-95 % of cpu usage. Needless to say this is very annoying and not good. I am thinking that the proccesor is just too slow. Is there anything i could do or should i update her to a new computer?

Sorry for the long post,

Thanks

BA
I don't think, you can run XP in a fine fashion with 400MHz processor. You may try Windows 2K. I run it on 466MHz machine.

how do i check if my processor can handle 64 bit?There are 32 bit and 64 bit processors....what is it you are trying to do ?heheh..im trying to find out if my processor is 64 bit Quote from: joelorenz40 on FEBRUARY 28, 2008, 04:17:56 PM

heheh..im trying to find out if my processor is 64 bit

althion xp2600+2 2.133GHz,120GB,512 MB DDR SDRAM,cd-rw/dvd,REALTEK ALC650

hello,
i lost my audio.
after checking the VOLUME icon on bottom tray of monitor (ok), sound CARD connection (ok) and audio/sound in control panel (ok), i STILL have no audio.

what am i doing incorrectly?

THANK you.Any "mute" buttons checked ? ?

I just purchased this (http://www.amazon.com/TV-out-VGA-S-Video-Cable-Adapter/dp/B000P3UB24/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1307470582&sr=8-2) cable which is supposed to connect your computer to your tv in a way that you can use your tv as a monitor.  I have an older tv which does not use hdmi or vga connections but my computer 's graphics card DOES have tv-out capabilities.  I have an hp pavillion p6110y desktop running windows 7 and the graphics card is a "Intel GMA 3100 Shared video memory (UMA)".  I've attached all of the wires and my tv has nothing displayed.  Any help would be much appreciated.  Thank you in advance.What inputs does your TV have?Im using an s-video input, other than that it has rgb and rca connectionsI also should mention that I only have one vga port in the back of my computer so in order to connect the cable to the tv I have to disconnect my actual monitor.  Meaning the tv would be my primary and only "monitor" hooked up to the computerHave you selected a resolution on the PC that the TV can display and have you selected "A/V" or WHATEVER on the TV?
Does your tv have the ability (usually via the remote) to chose between "input" sources/ truenorth Quote from: truenorth on June 08, 2011, 11:16:57 AM

Does your tv have the ability (usually via the remote) to chose between "input" sources/ truenorth

I have an older tv

Hey, I used auslogics on my laptop to speed it up, I think I may have REMOVED a program which was important for the WIRELESS to work... I can connect to the wireless device just fine but it always says "limited connectivity" and doesn't let me go on any websites at all.

There are 2 other laptops in the house that have no problems with the wireless, so i'm wondering if anyone can help me, any ADVICE appreciated, thanks!

my spec is:
Windows Vista Home Preium
Service Pack 2

System:
Compaq Presario CQ60 Notebook PC
AMD Turion Dual-Core RM-72 2.10 GHz
4GB RAM
32-bit Operating SystemAs recommended in the other thread you have, download and REINSTALL the latest driver from the manufacturer's website.Also if this message is appearing ""limited connectivity"" are you not getting a window OPENING offering a "repair' function? Have you tried that? truenorth Quote from: quaxo on June 12, 2011, 10:16:49 AM

As recommended in the other thread you have, download and reinstall the latest driver from the manufacturer's website.

01. regarding  the ribbon cable; is there a preferred way to plug in, between the master hd and slave hd? (there is a connection at the end of cable and one in middle of cable)

02. I read setting JUMPERS to 'cable' setting, on both hd's, makes access to drives faster?
 
03. if both hd's jumpered to cable, do i NEED a SPECIAL ribbon cable?

fyi; playing with an older pc which came with XP. it has some shut down and start glitches which i hope to solve. A funky tiger direct firefly, 1.3 celeron, increased memory from 128 to two 512 memory cards. trying to increase hd to 60 by adding a 40 along with original 20 hd. basically having fun, teaching myself a bit more technical aspect of pc's, ALSO trying to update bios and all the cheesy on motherboard drivers for audio, video, ethernet, etc. let the games begin!!

Michael AMB=======================================Slave==========Master.

Cable select does nothing to speed up access times...

Have Fun !Bad idea to choose a username which is your email address. You will probably now get lots of spam.

For no reason I can determine ie changes to software, settings ETC this PRINTER will now only print the header part of of an Outlook Express email. COPY the email TEXT and past as a word document and it prints fine.

Where is the problem likely to be  ? In windows? the driver? O/ Express???

Plantac

Cleaning a STANDARD keyboard is not a very difficult task. You can UNSCREW the bottom and dismantle the device and clean it anyway you want. Opening the keyboard is not a smart move but you can give it a try if you are confident of PUTTING it back together.

However, this option is not available when you were working on your laptop. The keyboard is an INTEGRAL part of the laptop and cannot be removed individually. You will have to dismantle the entire device and that is a strict No-No unless you are a licensed technician from the manufacturer. You have two options to clean the laptop keyboard.

Buy a can of compressed air or use a vacuum cleaner to air when you are holding your laptop UPSIDE down. The burst of compressed air will be enough to push even the most stubborn dirt from the bottom of the keyboard. Since you are holding it upside down, the dirt will easily slip through the cracks and will be out of your system.

Another option is to make use of a small pen knife to remove each and every key. The individual key on the keyboard of the laptop is fitted using springs and hooks. You simply have to lift the key off the hook and remove it. Fitting the key is not very difficult. Just do not use too much pressure because even the slightest crack can leave you with a vacant spot on your keyboard.

If you want to avoid the entire complication of having a dirty keyboard to be cleaned, you can go in for wireless or USB keyboard specially designed for your laptop.

Alrighty then. Quote from: johnbrad on June 09, 2011, 01:27:11 AM

Another option is to make use of a small pen knife to remove each and every key. The individual key on the keyboard of the laptop is fitted using springs and hooks. You simply have to lift the key off the hook and remove it. Fitting the key is not very difficult. Just do not use too much pressure because even the slightest crack can leave you with a vacant spot on your keyboard.

I've removed keys from regular keyboard but never from a laptop.  I think I'll pass on using the technique on my laptop until I get further confirmation this is a safe technique.

Right, so I recently got a new computer, which came with a widescreen lcd monitor.

I NOTICE a problem however, I think it believes I have 2.

I may full screen to play a game, and when I come back, programs left up like firefox, I unminimize and it unminimizes it off of my screen to the right, making me unable to see it.

I also notice my cursor can just float off to the right and take forever to get back, as if its going to a second monitor.



As you can see, it seems pretty obvious, but I am no expert on this. It seems as if it thinks I have 2 monitors...which I DONT. Is there anything anyone knows of that we can do to FIX this.

Just ask if you need my specs.

I appreciate the help (If any) guys.You don't mention your O/S is i presume it is win 7 (doesn't look like xp as on the computer i am viewing your post). It is definitely going to be a USER selected parameter in your "display" settings. I note "extend these displays" in your set parameter. What other options do you have available there? I have only recently begun using win 7 on a laptop so unfortunately i am not as familiar as others may be with it yet. I do know that by pressing the "windows and P " keys simultaneously you can chose between a variety of options (one of which IS extended). I suspect you need to go that route and change to the option of a single screen ( or monitor only if that is what it is--i forget for the moment all the choices) good luck,truenorthI just duplicated the situation you described in my Windows 7 system.  Why Win 7 allows the condition to occur when only monitor is attached is something I don't have an answer for, but it does allow the condition to occur.

truenorth touched on the solution.  Press your Windows key and P together to view some options regarding your display.  Click on the first option there, which is "Computer only".  That should resolve the problem.

Edit: here's a reference which sheds some light on the feature: http://blogs.win7deployment.com/clintongarbutt/2009/07/windows-key-p-presentation-mode/   The feature relates to use of a projector with the computer for presentation purposes.  Again, I don't know Win 7 allows such a setting to be enabled when no projector is attached.

Truenorth - Apologies, I FORGOT, yes its Win 7.

Soybean - Thank you. I tried it and it worked. It probably didnt even start like this, but I play this mod for gta IV PC (Laggy but still fun) which requires me to Alt + P, easily could of hit Windows key + P and not notice it.

I am going to be running  a CD that has a few hard drive diagnostics tools.

I'll need to know the manufacturer of the hard drive in order to select the appropriate tool. 

I never saw the name while you were performing the tests with the Sony diagnostic. 
I was TOLD I could find it "by turning on the laptop and pressing whichever key the screen indicates for BIOS or setup."
But since I cannot boot WINDOWS, I don't know what key it is.

Does anybody know how I can find out the manufacturer of the hard drive?

My PC is a sony vaio laptop
Model: PCG-5G2L
Model Name: VGN-CR190
Service Tag: R5311448
Product Code: 29399144
Serial No: 3001189
MFD: 07/07

(Mods delete any info if unneeded).

Thanks.You don't need Windows to get to the BIOS...Have you already been on their site?
https://forum.sel.sony.com/
Hard drive diagnostics are usefully when the hard drive is mostly good. A badly damaged hard drive will not finish the diagnostics, which gives rise to the suspicion that the problem may be the motherboard. Having a spare drive on hand can give a better answer. If a good drive works, then it is not the motherboard.

As patio said, you can get into the BIOS and see what drive, if any, is recognized. If the BIOS does not see the drive, the next step is to try another drive.You could just turn the laptop over, open the hard drive compartment, and look at the label on the drive.Aside from this (I am uneasy about opening up the harddrive compartment, I do not know where it is, what tools to use, and am worried if I do so, how to safely place it back in securely) any other way to find out the manufacturer?As was suggested, look in the BIOS.OK...step by step...how do I get into BIOS?http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/model-home.pl?mdl=VGNCR190&LOC=3
VGN-CR Series Hard Disk Drive Replacement Instructions

Direct link for hard drive removal:  http://www.docs.sony.com/release/994655000_VGNCRseries_HDD_CRU.pdfWell this was clearly above and beyond my scope.

I shopped around, and found the best deal at staples, since the $70 diagnosis fee is credited towards any service performed.

Sure enough, the harddrive needs replaced, and the operating system needs re-installed.
They will try as well and recover data.

Cost is $250...but if you credit the diagnosis...is is $180.


They told me they highly recommend I replace the motherboard, as that would be like getting a new PC, and would DEFINITELY guarentee it functioning.
That cost if I did that would be an additional $110...bringing it to $360 or less diagnosis $290.

I figured this was a "come on" to get me to pay more, I just want it running for the next 1-2 years, and said no.

Questions:
1) Does this sound like I got a fair price, and does the diagnosis+work seem reasonable?

2) Do you think I should have gone for the motherboard, or was my call correct?
-I figure I save money, and if I need a motherboard, I can always get that DONE later, why do it now if I might not require it, plus I thought it was more trying to squeeze cash out of me.

3) What do you guys think of staples?  They were MUCH more reasonable than BestBuy Geeksquad and SunMicroSystems.
They have a 180 guarentee anywho. Quote

3) What do you guys think of staples?  They were MUCH more reasonable than BestBuy Geeksquad and SunMicroSystems.
They have a 180 guarentee anywho.

My son turned my pc off and on quickly and I had to replace my mb. Is there any way that I can get my pc running without having to REINSTALL windows 7?Boot to the Win7 DVD and CHOOSE the LAST option: Repair. Quote from: Allan on June 15, 2011, 02:25:19 PM

Please STOP hijacking other threads. If you have a question please start your own thread. Thank you .

After reviewing other posts, I found some, that came close to my problem, but not my problem. So, now I have to post...lol.. anyway, my fan constantly runs when playing games on Facebook.. If I keep playing, say about a minute, my pc shuts down. I have speedfan (DONT understand any of it) & hijackthis, and dont understand any of it either. I did something, not sure what,  and at least now, the fan doesn't run while doing other things on the internet. (My PC was running slow also..) It seems to be better. I thought the CPU was getting hot, so now I have a fan blowing on the pc...doesnt help.  So, below is my specs of my PC, HP a6110n... If you NEED the hijackthis, sys config, & speedfan status too, let me know.. thanks

OS Version: Microsoft® Windows Vista™ Home Premium , Service Pack 2, 32 bit
Processor: AMD Athlon(tm) 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 4400+, x64 Family 15 Model 107 Stepping 1
Processor Count: 2
RAM: 2941 Mb
Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce 6150SE nForce 430 , 128 Mb
Hard Drives: C: Total - 296250 MB, Free - 174013 MB; D: Total - 8992 MB, Free - 722 MB;
Motherboard: ASUSTek Computer INC., NARRA2, 2.00, MS1C74S22402898
Antivirus: AVG Anti-Virus Free Edition 2011, Updated and EnabledGiven this "I did something, not sure what" and then this "at least now, the fan doesn't run while doing other things" i am wondering what is your issue now that you would like us to assist you with? truenorthI think you'll be taking this PC to a repair store, but anyhow...

Quote from: shellroc on June 11, 2011, 08:11:59 PM

I thought the CPU was getting hot, so now I have a fan blowing on the pc...doesnt help.

If you need the hijackthis, sys config, & speedfan status too, let me know..

...Is this a store bought computer of a home build?

My computer has done something twice now that is starting to worry me.


It shut down randomly- it was not overheated from what I could TELL, not very hot. I've FELT it at a higher temp. before, and felt it when it actually DID overheat. Then, I go to turn it back on, it shows me the "Toshiba" logo thingy, then automatically shuts back off. It did this about six times before it actually let me back on. The first time, I let it "REPAIR" (Which took hours. I actually had to end it manually because it didn't seem to be ending anytime soon) and thought that would fix it, but it did it a second time. My computer has not alerted me of any sort of virus. (My protection is Norton)


Does anyone know what the problem could be?
(I have a Toshiba and have had it for about two years now.)You mentioned heating problem. Post the hardware reports and use HWMonitor. http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
What type of REPAIRS do you mean you've made?I mean that it just pulled up the black screen with two options- "Repair" and "Start Windows Normally". I chose repair-- it didn't tell me EXACTLY what it was doing.

And I'll have to read over that. Seems a tad complicated. o.e

(Thank you for the response!)

I have had trouble finding info on buying what I want. Talk to an Apple tech and only got one word responses on their chat line. 

I use my living room computer as a music jukebox. I have most of my music on it. It is hooked up to a Logitech surround system. On my PC, I have added a surround sound card.

I want to convert to a Apple iMac or if needed a Mac Pro. I am ready to BUY, but don't want to buy before I know it will work. An Apple store is 100 miles away. 

At Best Buy, a SALESMAN mentioned to get a converter cable, but will it be a stereo sound, or just mono analog? 

Ideas? I WOULD like to keep using my Logitech system, but want a Mac. PLEASE help!

Glenn Young
Young SPROUT Farms - Tyler, Texas
www.YoungSproutFarms.com

Alright, this is a fairly old problem I've been having on my desktop (currently my laptop is better than my desktop, for gaming online at least). It's gradually GETTING worse, I think, and now it's just... painful to even attempt to play anything online. When I run a game it SEEMS to happen more often, but it's also a lot easier to tell compared to when I'm just surfing. Anyhow - my computer spikes BIG TIME, according to Bloodline Champions I have 155%+ packet loss(is that even possible?) and according to LEAGUE of legends I've spiked beyond 15k ms.

 Also, when I first got these lagg spikes there was a scratchy sound when it happened, and my computer completely froze for half a second, this still happens every now and then, but more often I just get crazy lagg spikes with no warning. When I get the sound lagg it typcically happens a few times, like 2-3 scratches and then just some lagg, typically over ~10 seconds. I have recorded some of this lagg when it was really big time bad, if it would be of any use.

Anyway, I tried getting a new router, and I'm considering a new network card or whatever it's called. I know for sure that it's not my GPU as my old one broke and I got a new one and the problem persisted. Yes, this problem is pretty old, but I've been able to live with it until now
!!I'M NOT SURE WHERE THE PROBLEM IS!!

Computer specifics(I'm just gonna drop things here as I FIND them):
W7 64-bit ultimate cracked
6144MB RAM
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quote from: Djifi on June 14, 2011, 07:17:10 AM

W7 64-bit ultimate cracked

I have an HP pavilion a6500f desktop running WINDOWS xp.  Ive been having problems with it.  When I turn it on, it first gives me that screen that says 'Start windows normally',  etc.  If I click on any of the options, safe mode, normal mode, ... it gives me a BSOD after a SHORT while that says 'Windows encountered a serious error and has  been shut down to prevent further damage'. At the end of the message are the numbers:

Stop: 0x0600007b (0xBA4C3542, 0xC0000034, 0x00000000, 0x000000000)

Any idea what this means
I would be interested to know if you FOLLOWED/tried any of the solutions/suggestions from this alternative post which i believe is yours on another forum? " shashman " "www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/topic402643.html" truenorthI tried to follow the advice but they all have stuff to do that requires the computer to boot up properly.  Mine doesnt, I get the BSOD before a bootup.  I get the splash screen, then the startup screen where it shows windows xp and then a bsod followed by a restart
Does it boot properly in safemode ? ?
No it doesnt even get to safe mode.  If I press F8 after the computer STARTS, I get the list of drivers that are going to be skipped, the list that you see when you boot into safe mode.  But shortly after that the computer shuts down and reboots with the same BSOD
Could you please give us a bit of history on this computer. How long have you had it? Has it always behaved this way? What have you tried to do to deal with this issue up to posting your issue on the forums? What if anything can you remember that was coincident to this problem arising? What software/hardware have you added/changed coincident to this problem arising? Remember my earlier admonishment in another post to provide more than less information to enable us to deal with your issue. truenorthI have had this computer for about 4 years now.  I had noticed that at one point my computer was getting rather slow and also i had a bunch of unwanted programs on there that i was not able to delete through add/remove.  Also I did a scan with malware bytes resulting in a lot of trojans and stuff so I decided to reload the operating system.  Thats when the problems began.  I think the hard drive may have gone out although I dont see why it would do so suddenly.  I hadnt added any hardware.  But I dont know for sure.  I think its either bad ram or a bad hard drive.

I dont know how to check what might be wrong
Well as a very easy start do exactly what you did with your other laptop that resulted in you regaining use.That is deal with the ram in the same manner. If that doesn't change anything we can move on from there. How did you do this "so I decided to reload the operating system"? If the HDD was working before you decided to reload the O/S it is unlikely that it is now the problem (hardware wise). Your slowness may well have been related to "resulting in a lot of trojans and stuff " if indeed the "malware bytes " had done a credible scan and was not just trying to get you to buy something. For your future consideration you would have been better advised to have gone to our forum on viruses etc rather than reloading your O/S. report back on your efforts with the ram.truenorthCourtesy of MSDN::

Quote

0x0000007B: INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE
(Click to consult the online MSDN article.)
Windows lost access to the system partition or boot volume during the startup process. Typical causes: Installing incorrect device drivers when installing or upgrading storage adapter hardware, or a virus.

I searched the forums and didn't find anything similar to my problem, so here's my post.

I built this computer myself using nothing but quality parts. For the past 3 or 4 years it's been running like a top with no errors or strange shut downs.

However recently when I shut the computer down I've been having a problem.

After shutting the computer down normally when I go to start the pc the power comes on the fans and hard drives spin up then it shuts down without any post messages being displayed on the monitor. I usually have to press the power button TWO or three times then it will finally post but it gives me an error about the boot process being interrupted and the message says press F1 to continue booting or press DEL to enter the BIOS set up. If I enter the bios setup then select save changes and exit the computer shuts down instead of rebooting. If I press F1 to continue booting the computer starts and runs fine until I shut it down. I thought it might be a psu issue so I went out and bought a 550 watt antec psu. I installed it and the problem persists.

As far as I can tell once the pc is running there are no problems. Even as I type this I have two virtual machines running, both with windows xp, my browser open of course and thunderbird open. I'm thinking about disconnecting each drive and seeing if that has anything to do with the problem I'm having. I'd APPRECIATE any help tips or suggestions as to what might be the problem.

One last thing, I haven't flashed the bios recently so I don't think that is the problem.Everything you say indicates the CMOS battery is weak or dead.If that's the problem that would be great. I really don't want to dump anymore money into this thing than I need to to keep it running for another year or two. Also, would the cdrom drive going have anything to do with what's going on?


I should also add that when I try to restart the pc that it shuts down instead. I'll keep an eye on the system time too to see if it goes off by a few minutes over the course of a day or two.It's easy enough to pull the battery & test it, should read 3.0VDC +/-0.3V.  When batteries get weak, all kinds of strange startup problems occur.  How power button functions is defined in BIOS.  Battery is not used once computer is powered on, so clock time means nothing once computer is on.  CR-2032 battery is about $3 at any drugstore.Well I put the new battery in and still the problem persists. Should I try clearing the bios?Have you installed any new hardware recently?

Try booting the computer with the minimum amount of components installed for it to post. One stick of Ram, no drives, and if you have onboard video use that instead of a card.Nope nothing new. Not even any new peripherals like a keyboard or mouse Quote from: GALLIENUS on June 09, 2011, 04:06:10 PM

1.  If I enter the bios setup then select save changes and exit the computer shuts down instead of rebooting.
2.  If I press F1 to continue booting the computer starts and runs fine until I shut it down....

Hello computer world!

I bought this slightly used computer which is a Emachines T6216, with everything inside other than the hard disk Drive. The computer had an AMD Athlon 2.0 GHz CPU, with 2000Mhz FSB, and a 512k L2 CACHE, 512 Mb of RAM which is now 1G(256x4). I gave the computer a 40Gb drive for now and at first the machines wouldn't boot. So after about a week I found another CPU and thought I would try it and surprisingly the computer booted. So that meant the old CPU in there was bad. The new CPU being a 2.2 AMD athlon CPU works GREAT but when I installed or tried to install windows xp the computer shut-off and the power light blinked. Many retries and i finally managed to get the installation to install without it turning off but it still does it every time I use it. I really like this computer and wish to use it. I have read on another Forum that I might need a Bios UPDATE because of the CPU change. Is this true? and If so could someone please show me where to get this update and how to install it? And If not can someone help me solve this issue please? Instead of messing with a BIOS flash...which may or may not help things...
Replace the CMOS battery on the MBoard...Part # CR2032 3 to 4 Bucks anywhere...Downloads & Support DOCUMENTS - Desktop / T Series / T6216ok patio I will try that thanks for reply. the Cmos works inside buty SHOUDL I reset it?It will re-set to the defaults when you swap out the battery...See p.52 of User Guide.ok i reset the cmos and it reset to defaults but it still turns off after trying to use it please help. Its a different CPU maybe i do need a bios update?If your BIOS setup recognizes all components installed including CPU, refrain from updating. Do this only as a last resort. You mentioned that you were able install XP but then shutsdown. Have you tried using another PSU? Any hardware changes could also cause this. Try also booting with minimum components installed.It's quite possible that MBoard doesn't support that CPU...but being an eMachine it may be a bear to find out what MBoard it even is...

None of the software solutions will work without an OS so you're looking at probably pulling the board out...

Hello,

I'm using Windows XP Professional (and on the MACHINE in question, I think it's 64-bit).  I don't have the option to replace/upgrade the computer, MONITOR, or projector in question but I need to know how to make this work.

We have a CAD tube with a Monitor.   The Computer has a DVI port (exactly 1) and the monitor accepts a DVI cable.  Great.

What we want is to be able to simultaneously display the same video on a projector next to the machine.  The projector accepts VGA.

We have a VGA - DVI adapter, so we can unplug cables and swap but then CAD Guy can't look at his work up close while presenting.

I bought a DVI SPLITTER on amazon.com, but when I plug it in, the computer monitor acknowledges a signal EXISTS, but displays only black, and the projector for the most part appears to not be aware there's a signal.

If I'm reading right, the Monitor cable has a DVI-D Single Link, the Adapter is DVI-D Dual LInk, and the Male (1 in the 2-1) is a DVI-D Dual Link.  The Female ends of the splitter look like they are universal.

Please help me understand how to split this signal.

Thanks,DVI is a Digital Sync signal and VGA is an Analog Sync signal. You can handle this 2 ways, the computer might have a slot available for a video card upgrade in which you can install a video card with dual video out, even if video card is dual DVI, you can convert one of the DVI's to VGA with adapter and then set up Dual Display config to be CLONED display mode.

Other option is to use a video splitter box that takes in 1 signal and outputs 2. But not sure if those boxes like to switch between native say digital to analog or not. For problems like this I usually upgrade the system with a video card that allows for dual display. The splitter box if single DVI in and Dual DVI out, I am not sure of adding an adapter to the one DVI out to convert to VGA if it will negotiate a Analog VGA Signal Sync or not.

i was PLAYING a game today and in the middle of battle my computer froze, its about a year old and has only truly froze 1-3 times in the past. i let it sit for a minute to see if it would clear up, the mouse was still working but could not click or use any key commands. So i did the most logical thing i could think of and held the power button down till it shut off, when i restarted the computer it did the normal bios run. and when windows started up i noticed in my TRAY the volume sound control had a red circle with a line thru it, i clicked on it and automatically went to a TROUBLESHOOTER and it was trying to detect the problem, but it didnt find any. Now it keeps saying that i have no audio device hooked up, which is not true...i use integrated sound but its never given me a problem in the past. I have an ASUS M4A77TD board and windows 7 64bit OS, any other info that is needed please let me know. i dont want to have to buy a new board but if i NEED to then so be it, thankyouReinstall Via audio driver.
http://www.via.com.tw/en/support/drivers.jspi just spent the past 45 mins trying to re install the audio drivers from the asus website, they wont install or its just not helping. and on top of that in the device manager there is no sound tab, but there is an other device tab that has about 30 identical items under it that say "unknown device on high definition audio bus". Ive gone through the properties of each, no useful info. i tried deleting and rebooting my system but they come back and the problem is still persistent. the only new hardware or anything ive done is i got a new modem from my isp when i upgraded it but that was 3 days ago and installed by my isp. i doubt thats the case but it sure does seem my drivers and/or hardware got messed up bad somehowTry the drivers from the link I provided previously.
Audio chip is:  VIA VT1708S High Definition Audio 8-Channel CODEC
Direct Link to file:  http://www.viaarena.com/Driver/v8700a_20100923.zip

I have an HP Pavillon dv5 laptop running on Windows Vista Service Pack 2. The battery icon in the corner 0% Available (plugged in, CHARGING) but it never charges. When I take out the power cord, the laptop turns off.It MEANS you need a NEW battery. Direct connecting your laptop without the battery on your AC ADAPTER plug will confirm this. Thanks, even though thats the exact answer I didnt want to hear.. is there any fix that I could do that without opening my wallet? QUOTE from: Kola360 on June 15, 2011, 02:18:56 PM

Thanks, even though thats the exact answer I didnt want to hear.. is there any fix that I could do that without opening my wallet?

Hey, today I used auslogics to speed up my computer and it apparently CLEANED up my computer, and while it is a lot faster, my sound has stopped working. When I click play on itunes, the song doesn't play, it's not just that there is no sound, the little arrow doesn't start moving on the timer either, so it seems like its not just as simple as a problem with my speakers. No sounds on the internet work either.

When i start up my computer, it says there is new hardware found (even though i haven't recently installed any new hardware) CALLED "IDT High Definition Audio CODEC"... I click to install it but it says it can't be installed & there's errors, compatibility errors etc.

Anyway I'm useless when it comes to computers so any help would be appreciated, since i was actually planning to start mixing songs starting tomorrow but that obviously won't be POSSIBLE now 

Thanks!Have you tried rolling back the changes Auslogics made to your PC? Quote from: GlitchPC on June 11, 2011, 08:31:54 PM

Have you tried rolling back the changes Auslogics made to your PC?

Go to the manufacturer's site and download the audio driver and install it again.

Which is why I said:

Before installing the second one.

I recommended this is both of your threads you have going.

Where can I get an audio driver?

i'm not sure how to go about downloading it from the manufacturer, i don't know who the manufacturer is, i've tried searching for the IDT high definition audio codec on the microsoft website but no luck there

...i don't know who the manufacturer is...

First, let me just say never, ever use cleaners like this to clean the registry and software. They almost always create more problems than they fix. This is a perfect example.

Go to the manufacturer's site and download the audio driver and install it again.

I have a budget of $500 USD. I want something that will play phoenix viewer and V2 of secondlife, and also be able to handle my classwork (I'm a web design MAJOR in college) and SAM 4. I need a long battery life, preferably a long life in general. I also HAVE something with good customer service. I don't care if it's plain, or big or small as long as it has space to also handle my secondlife photography things (I use picnik, photoscape and gimp). I am aware that the secondlife specifications aren't that demanding but it's important to me to be able to run it AND sam since I DJ there. I would prefer not having to have a compaq or HP, as those brands I've had awful experience with, as well as Dell and gateway. I've heard good and BAD about ASUS and Toshiba, but I'm STILL unsure and i don't trust the salespeople to tell me the truth since the last place i went sold me a laptop that started failing the day after i bought it and burned out a year later when the motherboard melted (HP).
Last person who had a tight budget and specific application needs I sent to bestbuy. Bestbuy has a 14 day return policy. So you can try out a model at home, and if it doesnt perform to your likings, you can bring it back and trade it in at full value towards the next better and have another 14 days. When it comes to gaming or intense graphics, your battery life will dive no matter what laptop you have. For gaming and graphics you will want to be plugged in and expect to have lots of heat pumping out of vent. Otherwise you might have 1 hour of gaming or intense animated graphics off the battery. Just make sure you dont leave any important DATA on the laptop if you return it as the geek SQUAD isnt very good and cleaning up your returned systems before selling it as a discount to the next person. Check with sales associate to make sure this is still their policy of return to trade in for next better if not satisfied. They give you a slip that says you have 14 days, vs word of mouth!!

How can i identity new toshiba laptops or factory reconditoned (refubrished)
Usually there is a reconditioned notice sticker affixed to the bottom of the computer. I had an old Toshiba that was a refurb and it had this. Also Dell use to and may STILL add a refurb sticker to theirs as for I was given a refurb by a customer looking for a environmentally safe disposal of it and I installed a new hard drive into that and use it as my beater computer. This beater computer for on the road has a label on the bottom side stating refurbished.

If you buy a computer brand new, it should not be a true refurb machine. It could however be stuffed with parts that originally failed on the production line and were reworked. But you would never know unless you cracked the computer OPEN and looked for signs of reworked components or 30ga jumper wire strung between via's.

Refurbs can be either a system sent back with 1 part REPLACED with new, or 2 systems taken to mix guts and make 1 good one throwing away the bad parts of the 2.

I have never had any problems with my Toshiba laptops both new models and the single refurb that I bought 9 years ago thru TIGER direct for $289 when laptops were like $800+ and I needed a way to do college work on the go.You want to have the laptop reloaded with a fresh copy of Windows.
Quote

There are several options for refurbishers to become a member of a Microsoft Refurbisher program. Members of the following programs are able to supply computers with genuine Microsoft software preinstalled to businesses, consumers, and nonprofits. ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

    * Microsoft Registered Refurbisher. This program is for small and midsize refurbishers across the globe that wish to supply refurbished PCs preinstalled with genuine Microsoft software to local consumers and businesses, as well as to qualified charities, nonprofits, schools, and government programs.
    * Microsoft Authorized Refurbisher. This program is for large refurbishers that average a minimum volume of 5,000 PCs refurbished monthly. Refurbishers supply refurbished computers and SERVERS preinstalled with genuine Microsoft software to businesses, consumers, and nonprofits
....
Microsoft Refurbisher Programs

My computer is a complete clutter. I'm a digital artist and i need to clean out everything so that my computer can run faster, and so i can reduce the lag on my tablet. Basically, I need to optimize what I have. So far I've backed up all of my essential data on an external hard drive, so I'm ready to BEGIN the process. I have little to no experience with computers, so PLEASE be patient with me.

I run windows 7 on my computer, but i lost the disk. I need to find a way to restore my computer completely without removing my operating system, Is this possible?

I've been struggling with this problem for a week now, please help me.

-Sincerely, S.R.H.Hi VoxViolet,

If you have been using your computer for a long time, chances are you will not get the optimal desire you once had without REFORMATTING your computer. Recovery would have required you to create a backup when you first got your computer. Seeing that you lost that disk, reformatting would be out of the question.

I'd say start uninstalling unnecessary/unused PROGRAMS from your computer. I'd recommend using Revo Uninstaller. It has a feature which not only uninstall the program and its folders, but registries, icons, shortcuts etc. The process is pretty straight forward, but feel free to reply and PM me for assistance.

Give that a try and reply back once completed.

Quote

I'd say start uninstalling unnecessary/unused programs from your computer. I'd recommend using Revo Uninstaller. It has a feature which not only uninstall the program and its folders, but registries, icons, shortcuts etc. The process is pretty straight forward, but feel free to reply and PM me for assistance.

To add to that. I think you should open the start menu and type msconfig goto the startup tab and disable everything not related to your anti-virus software. That should make things a lot faster. Also consider doing a disk defrag if you haven't already.

I'm a digital artist and i need to clean out everything so that my computer can run faster, and so i can reduce the lag on my tablet.

My old COMPUTER's power button has broken, the spring has LOST all retension, so I removed the button covering.
Please see this photo:


I used my finger to touch the SMALL projection on the power switch (as shown in red circle) to turn on my PC,
but I found that my PC would restart or SHUT down by itself.
But if I used a pen to touch it to turn on my PC, then it would be fine, no shut down, no restarting.

I am wondering if it is wrong to use a finger to press that small projection on the power switch directly?



No, its just a piece of plastic and is not electrically conductive. If the spring mechanism is nonfunctional I would suggest replacing the switch.

My freind gave me his HP ze2000 yesterday and told me he THINKS its over heating and it shuts off after a minute or two. Saturday i looked it at and told him i think its the cpu over heating because the FAN wasn't spinning at all. He gives it to me yesterday and i plug it in to the charger and nothing happened. No charge light, no sounds, no nothing. I took it apart and have it laid out in front of me and all the components look fine. The power JACK is firmly seated and the 18 volts runs through it so i know its good, and the power adapter is fine also. Does anyone have any clue what could be wrong with it, if the cpu was blown wouldn't i still get a charge light? Those are the symptoms of the way most laptops fail.  A COMPONENT on the motherboard has failed.  Which one is nearly impossible to find without specialized equipment, schematic diagrams & knowledge.  That's why no one repairs them, they are replaced with known good ones. Quote from: Computer_Commando on October 11, 2011, 04:25:20 PM

Those are the symptoms of the way most laptops fail.  A component on the motherboard has failed.  Which one is nearly impossible to find without specialized equipment, schematic diagrams & knowledge.  That's why no one repairs them, they are replaced with known good ones.

Those are the symptoms of the way most laptops fail.  A component on the motherboard has failed.  Which one is nearly impossible to find without specialized equipment, schematic diagrams & knowledge.  That's why no one repairs them, they are replaced with known good ones.

Yeah thats what i thought, i was looking for anything that looked burnt under my magnifying lens and an R033 fuse has a brown mark down it so i metered it and the 18v was going thought and the i continuity tested around some places around the cpu side of the board and its getting power. Dam shame though, So you guys think the thing turning on and off after a few minutes of use for the last few months was actually some component that i cannot seem to find failing, not the thing over heating?

I installed a svideo card in my old hp and first downloaded the driver ( gforce ) then re booted .The msn flag came up and a few progesss bars appeared and instead of going to the next screen it went black. I removed the card and the same thing is happening. I am unable to acess my pc at all .I tried f8 and f9 and so on and every variation but still get the same thing. This pc is my daughters I'm using now.. Has anyone an idea what I can do to revive even my pc without the svideo card .
Thanks1. Need full specs on the computer, including all hardware and the operating system (specifically what version of Windows). Don't forget to include the model of the card you were trying to put in.

2. What do you mean the "msn flag"?

3. Is the computer POSTing? (when you turn it on, does it show anything? do you hear a single beep?)

4. If it's posting, does it load into Windows? (Do you hear the Windows startup sound? (If you have to log in, you won't hear it until logged in)).

Let's start with those questions then we'll move on from there. pc is HP the o/s is XP professional . The model of card is GeForce FX5500 (AGP) 256MB/128/bit DDR+DVI+TV OUT .. I used this card in another  pc which I bought used from the same place a couple of years ago .They sell  used pc's and I bought this one a few months ago. ( the last one was an IBM )  About a year and a half  ago I bought  the card  new from the same place and after phoning them yesterday they said it would have came with a cd. I don't have the cd but they said go to nivida and download the drivers which I did. Before going farther I better mention That I took the card out of the first pc after getting a tv that had a vga input .The card just sat on the shelf for a year or so. After the pc that it was originally in became to slow starting up I went to the same used dealer and for $60.00 bought the one I now am having the problem with .It wologrked just fine until I put the svideo card in . The old IBM pc is still in my garage but with the hard drive destroyed (as a safty precauition against ID theives etc.) .
 After the pc comes on it first shows part of a huge HP logo ( to big for the screen) and along the bottom below the HP logo it says vol.11    F9=Boot Menu  F10=setup  F12=net and I cant see the rest of the line of words as they don't fit the screen. Then it goes to the next page which is what I called the msn flag .It a logo of a ORANGE square in with a green square imediatley to its right ,and a blue square below the orange ons ,with a yellow square to the left of the blue square ,and all TOGETHER they sort of look like a flag .
 When I first turn it on It  See if you can boot into safemode.Cant boot in safe mode  The screen fills with a bunch of information in black and white ,but no promptsI think I ran out of space in my last reply as I was unable to see what I was typing .I'll continue here . When first turned on it shows what I described then I hear clicking ,and buzzing then a few more of the same and after maybe 10 seconds or so it remains quiet with only the fan making its usual noise. I thing the buzzing is what you are calling the start up sound. I remember hearing it when ever I started up my pc in the past. The only hard ware is the DVD and CD player ,besides the svideocard which is no longer in it . After removing the video card the screen said memory error ,the memory is different than last start up ,it goes on to say pressing F1 will record the configuration. at the bottom of the screen it says the following configuration options automatically were updated:
Memory ) I cant quite make it out but it is 5 and I think 9 ,then 4 making it 594 When I plug the vga cable into the svideo card or the one thats on the pc originally it makes no difference .Just does the same thing.
 When I first bought this card I had a problem when setting it up ,it asked me if I wanted the tv or the monitor to be the one I would use ,or if I wanted both on at the same time . I remember having this problem now that I'm thinking about all this . It turned out that I had indicated I wanted only the power to go to my tv and that made my monitor black out . I am now thinking that this may be my problem The tv is way across the room and I was going to get a long svideo cable for it but thought first I'd install the card to be sure it worked on my pc and I wanted to p[lug the monitor in to the card vga output. Only now with the card out it still wont work.I'm out of space again and will have to leave  to work now
Thanks  That black and white TEXT is normal. When booting into safemode, it does that. There's usually a point where it appears to freeze, but it's not actually frozen. Give it a minute or two (really should be any longer than that) and see if it boots properly.

As for sounds, there shouldn't be a buzzing or a clicking. Buzzing is usually an indication that something SPINNING (CPU fan, power supply fan, case fan, hard drive, or a CD drive with a disk in it) is failing or malfunctioning in some way. Clicking, depending on where it's coming from, can mean a lot of things. If it's coming from the hard drive, the hard drive is dying. If it's coming from elsewhere, it may mean something else. See if you can determine where these sounds are coming from.

The sound I was referring to is neither of these, it's distinctly a beep. A single, short beep. An example can be heard in this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1dZUhxV9ju8

However, if you're getting to the Windows loading screen (with the Windows (flag) logo), then it's passing the POST.

I'm still not exactly sure by what you mean by "svideo card". I know what S-video is, but I've never seen a card that does just that (not saying it doesn't exist, just never seen one). Are you talking about the FX5500 or is this something else?

Quote from: neil88 on September 21, 2011, 09:43:10 AM

Memory ) I cant quite make it out but it is 5 and I think 9 ,then 4 making it 594

Case: Raidmax Ninja
Power Supply: Cooler Master Extreme Power Plus 650w
Motherboard: Gigabyte 880GA-UD3H
Processor: AMD Phenom II X4 965 3.4Ghz
Cooler: CoolerMaster V6 GT
Video: PowerColor ATI Radeon HD 5770 (two cards, using CrossfireX)
Sound: Creative X-Fi Extreme
RAM: 4GB Corsair XMS3 DDR3
HDD: 500GB SATA x2
Optical: LiteOn 24x DVD-Writer
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium
Monitor: 42 inch Samsung TV

FX5500 is the s-video card

How to DETECT Dvd writer detect ?Do you mean you installed a new DVD-RW drive? Can you POST more information to your computer, operating SYSTEM and HISTORY going to this problem?

I have a logitech900 pro web cam, if i make a video I can only play it on my logitech screen that I made it on. If send it to my documents and click on it, a BOX comes up and says I need some kind of program to open it. My video shows up in my documents as " video 5. wmv- VLC MEDIA player". I would like to send it in an email, do I need to download some program in order to open it? Thanks..........wmv - windows media video should open using windows media player, vlc is a media player also.
personally myself, I find that divx is the best video player, it plays a lot of video formats. Information on divx:

HTTP://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Divx

link to downloading divx:

http://www.divx.comok, i set my default to "windows media player". I see my video from my webcam in there and it plays, now the other problem, how do I send the video in an email? When my player is open the only icons on top are, library, RIP, burn, and sync, nothing in this box that says "send in email", I tried to click on it and send it to my documents and it won't even let me do that. Any ideas what I should do?When my logitech web cam takes a video it will automaticlly put it in a logitech file in "My Pictures". I click on it in there and a box comes up and says windows can not open this file, it needs to know what program created it. Under the video in my picture file it says "watch.wtc".Just use Youtube or FACEBOOK to upload your videos. Never heard of a direct email or attachments of any videos.

hello, 2 weeks ago i bought a m4a89gtd pro asus mobo with 4X4GB ripjaw 1366 mhz ram. Also i got a EVGA 460 GTX graphic card. everything worked ok and i never run into a problem. untill last sunday when i tried to increase the airflow and pullen out some unnecicary cables, when i tried to RESTART the comp all the fans were running but a Mem!OK/dram_led turned of near my memmory. everything work exept it doesnt send any signal to my mouse and monitor.
I read that i had to try every single ram in the slots seperatly and then with dual channel but that didnt work, after that i reset my cmos but still that led. So does ANYBODY know how to solve it?

GamerWhat happens if you use the MemOK! button? What CPU are you using? Can you try booting with onboard graphics? What cables did you pull out?if i press the button it flashes first slow than fast and than faster for around 30 sec. after that it stays burning.
my cpu is a amd phenom II 1090T black edition
and i tried to boot with onboard graphics but still the same result.
i pulled out every cable then reconnected everything with the computer shut down.
but in the end there were 2 sata cables which were only connected to the motherboard and to nothing else.When did you buy the M4A89GTD PRO? a quick google search shows that if you don't have the 1301 version BIOS installed, you will have serious compatibility issues.
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3/M4A89GTD_PRO/#download
As you can see if you have never UPDATED your BIOS, you won't be able to run the X6's properly
What is the exact part number of your Phenom?
Do you have another CPU at hand to test?what do you mean by exact part number? and this is my only amd cpu. and how can i install a driver without starting my comp? and i bought it 2-3 weeks agohttp://www.asus.com/Motherboards/AMD_AM3/M4A89GTD_PRO/#CPUS
You can see that the Asus website above shows that the M4A89GTD Pro only supports the Phenom II X6 1090T(HDT90ZFBK6DGR), 3.2GHz, 125W, rev.E0, SocketAM3, 6-Core, whereas if you bought this one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103849
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition Thuban 3.2GHz 6 x 512KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Socket AM3 125W Six-Core Desktop Processor HDT90ZFBGRBOX
compatibility issues may result.ok, but before i unplugged the cables it al worked or is this common?The FACT that it worked before unplugging the cables is odd...
You unplugged the cables, with the computer shut down, and then put them back in. Now there is a RAM issue.


I'm afraid the only way to know for sure is to take parts from a working computer and mix and match. It shouldn't be a BIOS issue, because you bought this board fairly recently. You have tried every stick of RAM separately in every slot, and it has failed to POST.


This may work:
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=672596
Quote

ITS ALIVE!! ITS ALIVE!! MWAHAHAHA!

Hokay, I was absolutely dreading having to remove the MOBO from the tray so I gutted my old computer and took the case speaker, (was no small feat I assure you; the case is in about 8 different peices atm.) Then I went to ASUS T/S site and it was pretty helpful.

I took the RAM and GPU out and attached the speaker. Booted and got the correct beeps for no RAM. Installed the RAM and I found out that just because the retaining clips lock in place IT DOESNT MEAN THEY ARE SEATED. You really (and I mean really) need to push down on the modules; this was my initial problem all along. After the RAM passed the beep code I installed the video card and viola, POST success.

I feel like such a noob. Thanks all for the suggestions.

If for e.g. the mobo is faulty how long wil it estimated take to receive a new one(living in the netherlands)

Weeks...or Months...

I built a desktop after moving and leaving my old one with family. I bought everything from monitor to mouse. I've built computers for friends an family and got them to work or found a solution for the reason they wouldn't. Unfortunately this has got me stomped.

I get no power to the computer, no fans spinning, no LED, nothing. I went through trial and error of figuring out the problem. As usual I figured the culprit to be the PSU after buying a multimeter. So I RMA'ed it and when I got it back still nothing. I then RMA'ed my MOTHERBOARD. And still same issue. I tried each piece separately, I tried bread boarding. I tested the power outlets, I tried shorting the PW switch thinking it might just be the power button. I tested and inspected most issues. One I'm left with is the CPU, but I figured I would get some kind of power. Even hooking up fans and only fans and trying to short the PSU they still don't run (this is using the "new" RMA'ed PSU). This is my last resort after which I left with taking it to a computer repair because I simply have very little time to mess with it.

Parts (I only PUT what I think is an issue. With my previous tests I did not use RAM, HD, video card, Cd-rom seeing as I get absolutely no power)

SeaSonic X Series X650 Gold ((SS-650KM Active PFC F3)) 650W ATX12V V2.3/EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply

ASRock Z68 PRO3-M LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 MICRO ATX Intel Motherboard

Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor

ZALMAN CNPS9500 AT 2 Ball CPU Cooling Fan/Heatsink

NZXT Crafted Series Vulcan Black Steel / Plastic Gaming mATX Computer Case


The only things I could think are an issue are the CPU or the RMA'ed PSU and MOBO are still defective. If you could be so kind as to give advice to plausible solutions or tests I have over looked I will be greatly appreciated. Money isn't an issue if a solution requires a new purchase of a SMALL item but I'm trying to avoid a $70+ hourly fee for computer repair. If you need more information please ask.

Thank you in advance for your time.

-ronn  I sympathize entirely with your problem.  It should be possible to do some simple tests on just the power saw why buy itself or with an accessory.
A multimeter or VOM  is very essential for power supply testing.  However, but there are some difficulties with using just the VOM by itself to test the power supply.  If you have another accessory around such as the old hard drive or even old CD-ROM drive you can use than as load for the power supply. After consulting your motherboard documentation you should be able to locate the wires that activate the power supply
Here is a video. But be careful. A mistake can do harm.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ogkIwzsUAsE
try to change your power supply and check
there are some situations this problem can be occured by graphics adapter as well ( in case of external )
check cables
if it not resolved the problem will on mother board exchange it from where you purchased
hope this information helpsThanks for the responses, but the paper clip test doesn't bring any life to any component with the  "new" RMA'ED psu. I decided to try and RMA one more time to see if it brings any results but Seasonics customer support isn't exactly worth while. They also suggested that test, but went straight to the RMA process. They also assured me they test the PSU before they ship it out, if that's the case then why isn't it working...

so i have been working on my cousins computer. the problem is when he installed the NEW drivers for his NVIDIA geforce 570gtx for the battlefield 3 beta it completely messed up his pc. Whenever he booted his pc up the computer would crash when windows tried loading and restart.

i installed an older driver and still same problem. wiped his hard drive installed new OS and still same problem with any driver for the 570gtx.

so i took one of my 470gtx and popped it into his mobo, installed the drivers and everything worked fine. played battlefield and stressed the card with no problems. So i thought it was his 570gtx at first. I took his 570gtx and popped it into my pc, installed the drivers and i could play games fine with his gpu. i EVEN ran stress tests on it and still everything was fine.

i know theres nothing wrong with his memory or power supply because i checked those out already.

anyone have any ideas?Compatibility issues are hard to resolve. One common problem is other I/O devices may use some of the same resources as the video card. Some sound cards can do this. Proper install sequence of the drivers makes a big difference.
After install of Windows, install the chip set drivers. reboot.

Next instill the REST of the recommended stuff from the motherboard CD.

Last, install the Video card and its drivers per the makers instructions. No short cuts. Example, one manufacture says you have to start with a VGA driver in place. Just the the generic one.  Turn off power. Restart the computer and cancel  the 'found new hardware' thing. Next install the Video drivers from the CD using the setup program on the CD. When all don, reboot.

In other words, read the documentation over again. In some cases the plug-and-play does not always work right on every machine. So the manufactures has you do it the manual install, using their install program instead of the windows plug and play METHOD.

i am almost positive i've used the internal mic on this gateway before, the sticker on the bottom SAYS model no. MA 3 and model MT6459 but now when i go to start menu, programs, accessories, sound recorder, a message pops up that says a sound recording device cannot be found. in the sound menu, recording tab, the only recording device is an external device with no option for internal whatsoever. how do i help the COMPUTER find my internal mic?
Thanks
chillybeanie

ps, have made sure my DRIVERS are indeed automatically updated, and windows 7 and IEI had a similar issue when upgrading from XP Pro to Windows 7 with my realtek chipset. Did this computer originally come with a DIFFERENT operating system than 7? My fix was to buy a $10 USB audio adapter that gave me MIC and Headphone jacks, then plug into that for MIC support since even the realtek drivers from realtek were only as new as Vista with no Windows 7 option available for my chipset. Tried Vista driver on Win 7 and audio would work, but no Mic. Got message of no recording device found just like you!could be, had a prior owner. alright, i can use the jack for an external mic if i must but if anyone ELSE knows how to wake my computer up to the parts it has forgotten it has i would be extremely grateful

I just BOUGHT Creative T6100 Speakers 5.1. I'm unable to connect my speakers now...There is power supply running....I doubt my sound card.....I'm not sure of what sound card I'm using in my computer...The speaker has three pins to connect to my computer, black blue and rose...n my SYSTEM has 3 pins blue, blue n rose....I tried connecting the pins in all ways..Now my questions is??

How do I KNOW what soundcard I'm using.. Is there any third party software that I can download and check to know what soundcard I'm using?

Do i need to upgrade my sound card to make my speakers/home theater work??

Any other possible causes that my 5.1 speakers r not working??


[regaining space - attachment deleted by admin]there is a program called everst you can download, it looks like you have a realtek soundcard if it's just a normal soundcard fixed to the motherboard and only has 3 connections on it they are used for audio in, audio out, and the MIC, i think you have to get a PCI soundcard for the 5in1What is the make and model of your motherboard?Thanks I downloaded the Everest.  It shows that my motherboard name is Intel Grand Country D101GGC.  I did not get any extra soundcard when I bought my PC.Ok, for that sound chipset, the jacks can be used for more than one thing, by default the jacks are line out, line in, and mic.

The jack colors should be (in order from top) blue, green, rose.

For surround, use the jacks like this:
line out - green jack - front left and right
line in - blue jack - rear left and right
mic - rose jack - center/subwoofer

As for the line colors from the speakers, just look at where you plug the in, the jacks on the speaker end should be labelled and match with the correct jack as above.

Also, make sure you are using the correct driver for the Realtek chipset. You can download it from here:
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/SearchResult.aspx?lang=eng&keyword=%22Intel+Desktop+Board+D101GGC%22

Just choose your OS and download.

This should include the Realtek HD Audio Manager, which will either automatically determine what's plugged in to each jack, or allow you to specify.

Recently, my desk top PC booted up and performed check-disk more regularly.  After each time the number of used spaces increased and eventually filled up the entire hard drive.
My PC operates with Vista Home Premium with 1T e-SATA hard drive , and the external hard drive is 1T Seagate FreeAgent which is connected to the PC via e-SATA cable.  This disk uses file system NTFS with  4096 bytes in each allocation.  I use this external drive  to store my backup (using Back-Up PROGRAM) and the second copy of my documents from C: (done manually).
During the checkdisk. at the beginning of boot up, the process "recover" all the "orphant" files  and put into a differnt  (new ?) location.  Currently the property shows that  C: drive is "364 GB free of 833 GB; onthe other hand, the external started with <300GB after the first backup and copy.  After each checkdisk, which takes few hours, the used space increased to almost double the previous size then subsequently grows to the whole disk - 931GB.
Here are my questions:
1.   What cause the PC checks disk more regularly lately?
2.   Is there a way to configure the PC only checks disk when I need?
3.   I'm thinking about buying a bigger drive to replace the Seagate.  Although  e-SATA is faster, is it reliable because most of the "well known" brands use USB 2.0? My PC does NOT have USB 3.0.
Thanks for your responses.
Glad to see you are making backups. Good move.

Is the problem mostly or only with the internal drive? Windows does not invoke check disk unless there is some indication of an error.  This feature is not unique to windows, other system has some way to identify errors at star up. Frequent invocation of the check disk indicates something is very wrong. At least one of  two or three things are present:
1.) A Hard drive that has a defect in a critical area of the drive.
2. ) A program that does not close files properly.
3. Part of the OS was damaged by a virus.

Number one is the worst case, because we do not kn ow for sure why the hard drive is doing this. Replacement of the drive may be necessary.

There is no reason to think the external eSATA connection has anything to do with this. We a rte talking about the internal drive.

Of course, there is always the possibility of something else, but I can not even guess as to what it night be. How old is this machine?

Drive diagnostic software is available for the major manufactures. The ones that run off of a boot CD do not require the OS to work. Hi 9PM,

Thank you for your promptness.

Fortunately the problem has been happened only to the EXTERNAL drive; therefore, I do not think about symptoms 2 and 3 of your diagnoses.

Probably I need TWO backup drives Is it practical?

My system is about three years old.

RotorwingHi

yes there is no reason not to have many drives for backup and if you have esata on the computer thats the way to go. When scandisk runs it can create *.chk files which it puts in the root directory. This could be where the free space is GOING.
Sorry I mis understood. I thought you meant the internal drive.
You need to check with Seagate. There have been many stories of problems with external drives. Not just Seagate. And the makers have admitted that are problems. No data has been released to the public, but indications are that the failure rate was so high that many vendors no longer want to sell the items.
It seems the automatic power management of the drives is the main issue. If so, that means you are better off using a simple system the requires manual backups instead of automatic. After a backup is done, turn off the PC and disable the external device. They last a lot longer that way. It would seem that the automatic backup concept has some kind of design flaw.
That is not just my option. There are others who also think auto-backup external drive for a home computer just does not work right.
Don't believe me? Just Google:
"I hate external drives" (no quotes) Quote from: Geek-9pm on October 02, 2011, 12:52:42 AM

You need to check with Seagate. There have been many stories of problems with external drives.

It seems the automatic power management of the drives is the main issue.

Don't believe me? Just Google:
"I hate external drives" (no quotes)

the earth is flat - about 66,700,000 results

The ONLY problems with external drives are:

1) They need to be handled carefully and
2) They aren't designed to be powered on and off daily as internal drives are

I have several external drives, the oldest of which is probably 10 years - and have NEVER had any issues with any of them.

The drives in external enclosures are the same as the ones supplied bare for putting in desktop cases or laptops. They are at no more risk of damage from daily power on/off than internal ones. I guess cheaper enclosures might have a less robust power wart though.

But the user should not have to be a mechanic.

To make a simple analogy, imagine you bought  a brand new bicycle. You use it for a while and the tires are still good. Even the seat does not wear out. The chain is near perfect. But one bad day the the frame falls apart in a heap of broken pieces. Absurd? Yes!

I'm not sure what you've got a bee in your bonnet about. Good quality external hard drives from a reputable maker with a decent warranty are worthwhile products to purchase.

Absurd, and profoundly unlikely.

But users mare finding the hard drives are 'failing' for some odd reason. The failure rates seem to be higher that one would expect. In a number of cases the drives are bad. But  other cases the failure is not from the hard drive itself.

Who says these things? Just you.

I wonder if an AGP 8X video card can be installed in a PCI - Express slot. In the MINIMUM system requirements, which appears in the video card box Zogis Nvidia GEFORCE FX 5500 - 256 MB - 128-bit, indicates the need for a motherboard with AGP 8X / 4X or PCI - Express. Thank you.
I dont think such an old card would fit in a NEWER PCI - e slot.

This link indicates its only compatible with an AGP x8
http://www.gpureview.com/GeForce-FX-5500-AGP-card-158.html

It won't...Just about any modern video card out there is PCI-E.
However, Gigabyte has released a AGP version of the RADEON HD 4650:
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3088
Probably for those who want to squeeze every last drop out of their outdated PC.

Hi

The boards in a Viglen Desktop machine, the processor 3.2 intel, 512 ram XP sp3 installed

the problem it will not boot. switch on and the FANS going to top speed but don't come down for it to boot.

I have changed the power pack, from another machine the same thing, but when i put the power pack back in the other machine the same things happened to that ONE.
I did by mistake leave the low voltage connection off the 4 pin black and yellow wires, powered up the fan went high came down the screen showed the intel blue screen, just froze,

Any ideas please.

Also the same things happened to a freind of MINE Dell 520 machine, fan runs high but wont boot.

That is an older motherboard.
Make sure you do the power supply connection right. If you messed up the powr connections, the board MAY be toast.
You can buy a used one in good condition for $50 or even less. But the only reason for buying another would be the CPU and memory. If they are good, get another board. Most likely the CPU and memory would survive, but its not a sure bet.