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hi EVERBODY, I'm looking for a MB that has ddr2 4 slots 775socket with Nividia 3d gaming intragrated to get me started to play some game like Torchlight, OBLIVION... i will upgrade a better VIDEO card later when i get the MONEY... so long as I get to start playing some games.
I see some but the star rate isn't great. looking for around $100 or under if i can do that.

Thanks

I have a question about upgrading the CPU of a Sony Vaio V505 Laptop with a Pentium 4 Mobile Processor 2.40Ghz with a Pentium 4 3.00Ghz.

There specs are

P4-M 2.4 GHz 512 KB 400 MT/s 24× 1.3 V 35 W Socket 478
Northwood (130 nm)

P4 3.0 GHz 512 KB 400 MT/s 30× 1.55 V ~80 W Socket 478
Northwood (130 nm)

both CPUs work at the same FBS (400Mhz), and have the same size (130 nm) and are of the same socket (478) there are differences in voltage and the watts


Is This possible?
I doubt that the LAPTOPS motherboard is designed to supply enough power and even if it was, that processor would knock off at least 30mins from your battery life. Then taking heat dissipation into consideration from 2.3x extra power pumping through the CPU... I don't think that the laptops current cooling systems will cope.

That just my opinion THOUGH, I tend not to GET into laptop modding. They aren't made for it. Hopefully another member will be able to confirm for you. Quote from: smitty10492 on April 18, 2011, 07:49:38 PM

I have a question about upgrading the CPU of a Sony Vaio V505 Laptop with a Pentium 4 Mobile Processor 2.40Ghz with a Pentium 4 3.00Ghz.

There specs are:
P4-M 2.4 GHz 512 KB 400 MT/s 24× 1.3 V 35 W Socket 478 Northwood (130 nm)
P4     3.0 GHz 512 KB 400 MT/s 30× 1.55 V ~80 W Socket 478 Northwood (130 nm)

Is This possible?

Hey guys I am attempting my first computer build which is actually more of an upgrade, I recently recieved an older pc and want to upgrade it a bit for gaming, I just want to be sure that everything I want to buy is compatable. The computer is a eMachines t3085.
I am considering PURCHASING:
Motherboard and cpu package
 http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=171512&csid=_22
Graphics card
 http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7229011&CatId=3670
RAM
 http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6753736&CatId=10
If ANYONE with any computer knowledge can help me out it would be greatly appreciated and also FEEL free to make suggestions on other things i should add but I am on a very tight budget so KEEP that in mind, thanks!What about the poser supply?I BELIEVE that the power supply is 480WMore importantly does the power supply have the expanded 24pin ATX power connector & EPS/ATX12V CPU power connector? Also any SATA power connectors?

Speaking of SATA power connectors I noticed that your motherboard only has 1 IDE connection (this is standard now). This means that if you are currently running on IDE HDD's and ODD's then you will have a problem.
RAM memory should be fine even if you buy two modules.
http://www.biostar.com.tw/app/en/mb/content.php?S_ID=495 (motherboard specification)

Graphics card is quite a dated one, I'm not sure that it will benefit your system due to the existing on-board graphics. Also according to passmark (and release years) you will get more bang for your money with an ATi Radeon HD 4550, they sell at about the same rate as your selected card. (ATi tend to give better value for money on lower end video cards than Nvidia)
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+8400GS
http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=Radeon+HD+4550

Again with the CPU you could get a little more out of an AMD Athlon II X3 425 for the same money but then you lose the motherboard that's on offer with your current CPU. Also it's hard to pick out a motherboard for other people due to the fact that motherboards are custom to the user (e.g. I don't buy motherboards with on-board graphics).
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+Athlon+II+X2+255
http://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+Athlon+II+X3+425

ODD = 'Optical Disk Drive' new abbreviation, deal with it

Hey guys, my computer has been recently going to this blue screen every few minutes.
My friend is telling me it's a hard drive ISSUE and to replace it. I was just wondering if you guys think that is the problem.
MY computer is a Toshiba Satellite and i don't know the model number sadly. It's running on windows vista.Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - SELECT All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, COPY all of the content, and paste it into your next reply==================================================
Dump File         : Mini041611-02.dmp
Crash Time        : 4/16/2011 7:01:07 PM
Bug CHECK String  : KERNEL_MODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Bug Check Code    : 0x1000008e
Parameter 1       : 0xc0000005
Parameter 2       : 0x8ee243c5
Parameter 3       : 0x8e541974
Parameter 4       : 0x00000000
Caused By Driver  : igdkmd32.sys
Caused By Address : igdkmd32.sys+203c5
File Description  : Intel Graphics Kernel Mode Driver
Product Name      : Intel Graphics Accelerator Drivers for Windows Vista(R)
Company           : Intel Corporation
File Version      : 7.14.10.1329
Processor         : 32-bit
Computer Name     :
Full PATH         : C:\Windows\Minidump\Mini041611-02.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 6001
Dump File Size    : 138,584
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini041611-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 4/16/2011 6:55:46 PM
Bug Check String  : RDR_FILE_SYSTEM
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000027
Parameter 1       : 0xbaad0075
Parameter 2       : 0x8c913c34
Parameter 3       : 0x8c913930
Parameter 4       : 0x8efd40d8
Caused By Driver  : mrxsmb.sys
Caused By Address : mrxsmb.sys+10d8
File Description  : Windows NT SMB Minirdr
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.0.6001.18431 (vistasp1_gdr.100223-0035)
Processor         : 32-bit
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\Mini041611-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 6001
Dump File Size    : 134,512
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini041111-06.dmp
Crash Time        : 4/11/2011 10:01:45 PM
Bug Check String  : KERNEL_MODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Bug Check Code    : 0x1000008e
Parameter 1       : 0xc0000005
Parameter 2       : 0x8ec40b2f
Parameter 3       : 0xad3fb680
Parameter 4       : 0x00000000
Caused By Driver  : igdkmd32.sys
Caused By Address : igdkmd32.sys+39b2f
File Description  : Intel Graphics Kernel Mode Driver
Product Name      : Intel Graphics Accelerator Drivers for Windows Vista(R)
Company           : Intel Corporation
File Version      : 7.14.10.1329
Processor         : 32-bit
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\Mini041111-06.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 6001
Dump File Size    : 138,584
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini041111-05.dmp
Crash Time        : 4/11/2011 9:55:18 PM
Bug Check String  : CRITICAL_OBJECT_TERMINATION
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000f4
Parameter 1       : 0x00000003
Parameter 2       : 0x8737d310
Parameter 3       : 0x8737d45c
Parameter 4       : 0x822547e0
Caused By Driver  : ntkrnlpa.exe
Caused By Address : ntkrnlpa.exe+cd1cb
File Description  : NT Kernel & System
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.0.6001.18538 (vistasp1_gdr.101014-0432)
Processor         : 32-bit
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\Mini041111-05.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 6001
Dump File Size    : 142,696
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini041111-04.dmp
Crash Time        : 4/11/2011 9:48:42 PM
Bug Check String  : PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
Bug Check Code    : 0x00000050
Parameter 1       : 0xffffff8c
Parameter 2       : 0x00000001
Parameter 3       : 0x8ec35261
Parameter 4       : 0x00000000
Caused By Driver  : igdkmd32.sys
Caused By Address : igdkmd32.sys+60c941
File Description  : Intel Graphics Kernel Mode Driver
Product Name      : Intel Graphics Accelerator Drivers for Windows Vista(R)
Company           : Intel Corporation
File Version      : 7.14.10.1329
Processor         : 32-bit
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\Mini041111-04.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 6001
Dump File Size    : 142,696
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini041111-03.dmp
Crash Time        : 4/11/2011 8:31:40 AM
Bug Check String  : DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x000000d1
Parameter 1       : 0xc9850000
Parameter 2       : 0x0000000a
Parameter 3       : 0x00000001
Parameter 4       : 0x8de0c370
Caused By Driver  : igdkmd32.sys
Caused By Address : igdkmd32.sys+a370
File Description  : Intel Graphics Kernel Mode Driver
Product Name      : Intel Graphics Accelerator Drivers for Windows Vista(R)
Company           : Intel Corporation
File Version      : 7.14.10.1329
Processor         : 32-bit
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\Mini041111-03.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 6001
Dump File Size    : 138,584
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini041111-02.dmp
Crash Time        : 4/11/2011 7:13:31 AM
Bug Check String  : IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
Bug Check Code    : 0x0000000a
Parameter 1       : 0x00040528
Parameter 2       : 0x00000002
Parameter 3       : 0x00000001
Parameter 4       : 0x82022fe9
Caused By Driver  : hal.dll
Caused By Address : hal.dll+3fe9
File Description  : Hardware Abstraction Layer DLL
Product Name      : Microsoft® Windows® Operating System
Company           : Microsoft Corporation
File Version      : 6.0.6001.18000 (longhorn_rtm.080118-1840)
Processor         : 32-bit
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\Mini041111-02.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 6001
Dump File Size    : 138,584
==================================================

==================================================
Dump File         : Mini041111-01.dmp
Crash Time        : 4/11/2011 7:11:02 AM
Bug Check String  : KERNEL_MODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED
Bug Check Code    : 0x1000008e
Parameter 1       : 0xc0000005
Parameter 2       : 0x8e63e9c7
Parameter 3       : 0x8ca8c644
Parameter 4       : 0x00000000
Caused By Driver  : igdkmd32.sys
Caused By Address : igdkmd32.sys+379c7
File Description  : Intel Graphics Kernel Mode Driver
Product Name      : Intel Graphics Accelerator Drivers for Windows Vista(R)
Company           : Intel Corporation
File Version      : 7.14.10.1329
Processor         : 32-bit
Computer Name     :
Full Path         : C:\Windows\Minidump\Mini041111-01.dmp
Processors Count  : 2
Major Version     : 15
Minor Version     : 6001
Dump File Size    : 138,584
==================================================
What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?I get an error saying explorer.exe is not working properly, then an error saying windows needs to shut down and my computer just blue screens after.That wasn't the question. What is different since before this error started?Looks like he installed the wrong Intel graphics drivers recently...perhaps seeking a performance boost...I don't think there was anything so different, I didn't have a virus I was just watching a video and it just happened.Go to the following link and have it check for an updated graphics driver: http://www.intel.com/p/en_US/support/detect/graphics?iid=business+download_gmavis the hard drive making any noises it shouldnt be? i had a blue screen issue which turned out to be a failing hard drive. if your friend is right about it being a hard drive issue i would replace the drive before it completely fails and you lose all your data Quote from: JasonC on April 17, 2011, 07:30:43 PM

is the hard drive making any noises it shouldnt be? i had a blue screen issue which turned out to be a failing hard drive. if your friend is right about it being a hard drive issue i would replace the drive before it completely fails and you lose all your data

I have a gateway laptop that is about 3 1/2 years old. It is to the point now where nothing happens when the computer turns on. I had a friend look at it and he said I NEED to replace the motherboard. I am not really sure what I need to put in to get the right motherboard or what I need to do. Any help would be great. What model is it?
What Operating System? Vista?
You should use the same motherboard, as replacement.
Otherwise n the Windows discs from Gateway don't work.

Quote

I am not really sure what I need to put in to get the right motherboard or what I need to do

What model is it?
2.What Operating System?

how can i backup my files before formatUse a disk imaging PROGRAM...
Acronis...not Free
Macrium Reflect...Free for Home use.acronis didnt cost me anything but maybe i got a TRIAL version or something. worked fine for me Quote from: JasonC on April 17, 2011, 06:52:43 PM

acronis didnt cost me anything but maybe i got a trial version or something. worked fine for me

As does Seagate...It's not a full version...but fine for the average Home user

WD calls it Acronis True Image WD Edition Software:  http://support.wdc.com/product/downloaddetail.asp?swid=119&wdc_lang=en

Can anyone can download Acronis WD? It doesn't ask if you purchased a WD harddrive.

Hi,
It’s not a good idea to put backup files on another drive on the same computer.Backing up a computer is essential for keeping long term (or even short term) documents around. I also want to know how can backup our data on computer.
Please tell me fast.
thank you.

Hi
Old days PCs have ISA slot for installing expansion card. Now, PCs have PCI.
In our Lab. an ISA expansion card connect measuring instrument, SIMS, to old PC, that run Win98 and has ISA expansion slot. Now, we want to change old PC with new one.

Therefore, my main question is:
How can I connect ISA expansion card to new PC (that has no ISA expansion slot)?

NOTE:
Price of the measuring instrument, SIMS, is about 4 million dollar and fixing probable problem is about thousands dollar. Price for new Expansion card based on PCI is about 6000$.
So, there is no risk for experiment. If the expansion card gone, we have to pay 6000$ and buy new one. 

Thanks everyone …
There are devices called "PCI to ISA bridges" but you can still get new computers with ISA cards. Not consumer or office type PCs, but proper industrial ones. Maybe one could be built around an industrial motherboard such as the iBASE M930 which has 1 x PCI-E(x16), 1 x PCI-E(x1), 4 PCI, 1 x ISA (slave) slots. This has the Intel Q35 Express Chipset supporting Core2 Quad / Core2 Duo processors. I am not aware of pricing.

http://www.ibasetechnology.net/mb930.html

Or there is another company called NIXSYS which supplies computers with multiple ISA slots from around $600 in ordinary desktop and rackmount formats

http://www.nixsys.com/index.php/products/isa-slot-workstation-and-servers.html?gclid=COLC9O2k_qcCFcod4QodPjPhrg

These are just two examples. If you are researching a MISSION critical hardware replacement you really require more specialised help. But I guess right now you are just beginning to research this. If you just type "ISA slot computer" into Google you will find dozens of suppliers of boards and assembled systems.


http://www.arstech.com/item--usb2isa1.html

But wait and see what others have to say about it, regarding reliability, etc.

Thanks Salmon TROUT

I always think the ISA slot is dead in world of the computer.
Your recommend,
http://www.nixsys.com/index.php/products/isa-slot-workstation-and-servers.html?gclid=COLC9O2k_qcCFcod4QodPjPhrg
is so safe for my works and no risk

thanks again
Whew, this is one of the more bizarre posts I've seen in awhile. 
Quote from: k_mohsen on April 02, 2011, 10:07:34 AM

Note:
Price of the measuring instrument, SIMS, is about 4 million dollar and fixing probable problem is about thousands dollar. Price for new Expansion card based on PCI is about 6000$.
So, there is no risk for experiment. If the expansion card gone, we have to pay 6000$ and buy new one. 

Old days PCs have ISA slot for installing expansion card. Now, PCs have PCI.
In our Lab. an ISA expansion card connect measuring instrument, SIMS, to old PC, that run Win98 and has ISA expansion slot. Now, we want to change old PC with new one.

Therefore, my main question is:
How can I connect ISA expansion card to new PC (that has no ISA expansion slot)?

Whew, this is one of the more bizarre posts I've seen in awhile.  Where are you getting these dollar values?  They're totally absurd.  You could buy a new computer for a few hundred $.
Specifically, what type of expansion care are you talking about?  Surely, the device you're talking about is available in a newer PCI or PCIe format.

But he's not looking to replace a gas chromatography  or electron microscope piece of equipment...

Well, Salmon Trout, what is "SIMS"?  My Google search shows nothing about some kind of testing equipment by that name?

I wasn't quibbling...
Merely suggesting they may not be locked into an ISA solution for their issues...there may be alternatives...that's all.

Maybe you didn't search properly.

Have I said or done something to annoy you people? What's with the doubt and undermining and quibbling?

My wife and i returned home after a 40 day absence.As a precaution to electrical surge events we deprived all our computers of a power connection. On PLUGGING them back in all but my wife's HP desktop running Win ME (gives you an idea of it's vintage) ran normally.Absolutely nothing happened on it.The same as if it was still powerless. My logic suggested to me that a deterioration of the CMOS battery to dead was the only thing that made sense given that the computer worked fine until our departure and to my mind nothing could have affected it's performance in our absence. So with a google search parameter of "will a computer still work if the cmos battery is dead?" i sought enlightenment.After reading a great multitude of the answers they ALL agreed the computer should still work (with limitations) without a functioning CMOS battery. I cannibalized a CMOS battery from another computer. Lo and behold HP working again as it should. I advance this topic in the event that others may find it useful when facing the same issue and to encourage them to try that solution.  truenorthThank you, bluetooth.
That goes to show that just because a large majority of EXPERTS think something can not happen, it still  could happen.
Makes one think of the question about the firmware on a automobile that was reported to have run AWAY alteration problem. After a STUDY of about a small number of cars that were normal, they determined that thee was no problem at all. It never happened. Had to be a mechanical failure.

Using that logic,
your experience -
with the CMOS battery -
never happened.     
Newer PC's will boot with a weak /failing CMOS battery...
However this did not hold true on older models... Quote

The purpose of the CMOS battery most often today is simply to allow your computer to REMEMBER what time it is. I think of it as a glorified watch battery. If the battery dies or is removed, then when your computer boots it will have forgotten the current date and time.

Typically the CMOS battery no longer affects whether or not BIOS settings are remembered. Most of those settings are kept in a type of dedicated flash memory, not unlike the kind that might be inside a USB flash drive. In the past, back when the battery was actually powering "CMOS RAM" to retain those settings removing the CMOS battery would cause your BIOS to lose not only the date and time, but also any customizations you might have made to the BIOS configuration.

http://ask-leo.com/how_often_should_i_replace_my_cmos_battery_and_what_does_it_do_anyway.html

my CMOS settings reset when I remove the battery.

I guess it's a battery powered flash. 

It is that dated motherboard you have!

Ok so my Dell Inspiron 1526 laptop with Windows Vista is having problems. I turn the laptop on and all I get is a black screen. The blue power button is on but the screen shows nothing, not even a start up screen. I tried the whole process of taking out the battery and holding the power button for 60 seconds, and then putting the battery back in. That actually gets the laptop to work and to start up correctly. However, after I turn it off and come back to use it the next time, it goes back to the same problem with the black screen and i end up having to take the battery out and hold the power button again for it to work. I dont want to have to do this every time I want to use the computer, can someone here please help me? Do you think I NEED a new battery? If you have access to a battery supply store they can test it for you. How old is the battery? Does the laptop work properly if the battery is removed and it is run only off the power supply? truenorth Thank you for the response. The battery came with my laptop, which is about a few years old so the battery is about a few years old as well. If the battery is removed but the charger is plugged in, the problem still persists. So does this mean that the problem is most likely not the battery???

Do you know of any places that could test it for me in the boston area? I tried google searching but couldn't FIND anythingTry this 1st:
When the DELL™ logo appears, press IMMEDIATELY.  Select Diagnostics from the boot menu, and then press .
But:
I'm thinking it needs a new CMOS battery:  http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/ins1526/en/SM/coinbatt.htm#wp1179839There is no Dell Logo, that's what I mean....I turn the computer on and nothing shows up at all, just a blank screen, that's it. Sorry for the confusion. Quote from: dude12345 on April 20, 2011, 11:05:10 AM

...I tried the whole process of taking out the battery and holding the power button for 60 seconds, and then putting the battery back in. That actually gets the laptop to work and to start up correctly. ...

Hey guys I RECENTLY received a Dell dimension E521 and was WONDERING what a good and cheap graphics card WOULD be that's compatible. I'll also be upgrading to 2.5 gb of RAM. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks!

Best way is to FIND out what your motherboard is, after a quick search i FOUND this, it should be useful. It tells you about graphics cards and memory.

http://www.ktechpc.com/delle521/e521.htm

Any PCI-E graphics card that does not need a PCI-E 6 or 8 pin power expansion will do.

[Dimension 521 Specification]
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dime521/en/SM_EN/techov.htm#wp1053345

HELLO:

I HAVE AN OLDER DELL DEMENSION 3000 PC. I SAW AN HP 2310E MONITOR ON SALE AND ASKED HP IF IT WOULD CONNECT TO THE OLDER PC. THEY SAID IT WOULD. WELL, IT DID NOT. ON CALL, THEY TOLD ME TO PURCHASE A VGA CABLE TO GO FROM DELL TO NEW MONITOR. THE NEW MONITOR HAS 3 PORTS, HDMI, DVI & DISPLAY PORT. I AM USING DISPLAY PORT AS THAT IS WHAT FITS. NEW MONITOR AUTOMATICALLY SCANS THE 3 PORTS FOR SIGNAL. STILL SAYS SEARCHING AND NO SIGNAL. ONLY OTHER THING THAT COMES UP IS CHECK VIDEO CABLE. WHAT CAN I TRY? I HAVE READ THAT I MAY NEED A VIDEO CARD WITH DVI AND ALSO READ THAT I DO NOT? THANK YOU.Your capslock key is broken...SO YOU HAVE A NEW VGA CABLE (BLUE INVERTED SERIAL CONNECTOR) PLUGGED INTO THE VGA PORT OF BOTH THE COMPUTER AND THE MONITOR.
DOES YOUR COMPUTER HAVE MORE THAN ONE VGA PORT?
DO YOU HAVE ANOTHER MONITOR YOU CAN TEST THAT COMPUTER WITH?

(I HAVE A 2310i & VGA WORKS FINE)Thanks...no cable connects to blue VGA on computer and dvi display port on monitor. That is what HP told me to get since
there cable would not work. The new monitor has 3 ports, no VGA. I tried new monitor with my HP Pavilion dv3 laptop and
it did not work their either. HP's specification states only 2 ports HDMI & DVI-D. What are you using to connect either the computer or laptop to the monitor?

Sorry for the caps joke, couldn't resist Thanks. The 2310E has 3 ports. HP had me obtain a cable with VGA on one end and DVI on the other end. It sounds confusing, however the DVI cable fits the largest slot on monitor called display port when it searches for a connection. I still have the DVI and the HDMI available according to the search on the monitor and 2 available slots on the monitor. The cable appears to sink fine. The other 2 ports appear similar to about the size of a USB connection so they are definitely not an option.HP 2310e Monitor; Input terminals
1 HDMI connector
1 DisplayPort connector
1 Dual-link DVI-D connector

DisplayPort is the latest video interface & is designed to replace DVI & VGA.  Only the latest video cards will have this output.


Dell Dimension 3000 is shown below.  The only video card you could add would be an old PCI card which will only have VGA.



You bought a monitor which is incompatible with your computer.  Since your adapter cable is not working, it would seem your best option is to get a VGA monitor.PCI video cards go much better than VGA. Even my old ATI Rage II went to 1600x1200.
Oh I see! You mean a 15 pin D-sub VGA connector! Sorry.


QUOTE from: AZROOKIE on April 19, 2011, 09:20:19 AM

Thanks. The 2310E has 3 ports. HP had me obtain a cable with VGA on one end and DVI on the other end. It sounds confusing, however the DVI cable fits the largest slot on monitor called display port when it searches for a connection. I still have the DVI and the HDMI available according to the search on the monitor and 2 available slots on the monitor. The cable appears to sink fine. The other 2 ports appear similar to about the size of a USB connection so they are definitely not an option.

Hey everyone, it's been years since I last posted here...

I have no idea what my younger brother was doing on my old computer before it went haywire but now it won't boot and all that reads is "A disk read error occurred, Press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart."

It's Windows XP, and I don't have an install disc.

I don't use it anymore but I never bothered to transfer all my old important files onto my new computer so I'm really hoping the data is recoverable. Or better yet, that the hard drive can still function normally.

Any advice or direction is appreciated, thanks.Lets hope that he just CHANGED the BIOS settings.I can access BIOS at startup but it's like a foreign language to me 

Is there anything in particular I should be looking for?First, make sure there are no other discs inserted (floppy disc, usb or cd). Second, you need to ask your brother what he did.He claims he did nothing but there's no use negotiating with an 8y/o. My sister claims she saw him TOYING around with the cables behind the computer but nothing seemed out of place.

Details I forgot to mention:
He called me saying the computer was ACTING erratically so I expected the typical blue screen of death. Instead, the screen was gray and said the computer hadn't booted properly on the previous startup and to choose a startup option. I selected "last working setting" or something along the lines of that and it rebooted back to the same menu. I then chose "safe MODE" and it rebooted to the menu I'm seeing now which only reads "Disk read error occurred."Open the computer and check all cable connections.

ok so I watched this video on youtube that claimed that the laptop I own had a problem with over heating graphics cards. I want to play GTA SA and I have for 30mins already and I want to know if there is a program that will track the graphics car heat and give you an alert when the temp is too high. my laptop is a HP pavillion ZD 7000. 3Ghz CPU, 512 MB ram, 80 GB hdd. PLease let me know I want to play games knowing that the computer can handle it. thanks Normally the best way to determine compatibility between software and a computer is to read the "minimum " requirements for the software. There are some high end laptops which are now touted for "gaming" but that one is not one of them. truenorth the game works fine but im concerned about graphics card overheatingAs i stated your concerns may be allayed by comparing the requirements of the "game" with the specs of your computer--including the graphics card. If you are still concerned assuming the match is deemed to be there then while performing the game in an active mode simultaneously run a heat test on your computer and determine if your fears are confirmed or refuted. truenorth
http://ubcd4win.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=4448ok thanks I will try this. The reason im concerned is because these machines dont have GPU cooling and mny overheated due to the chipset being to strong in these machines. I have played on it before but never realized what might happenHard to know what chipset is in that thing with just the 7000 series number. You should be able to find the specific MODEL number on the bottom, not the series number next to the screen. The ZD7000 series has over 50 variations with one of 6 different video chipsets. Their construction is generally all the same, and none of them have direct GPU cooling, though the CPU heatsink has two fans. In any CASE, they all had a 5000 series GeForce Go chipset.

The input for those two fans will be at the bottom, where you should see two circular openings. The output is towards the left (when laptop is upright) and rear. The CPU is located between the two fans and the GPU is located directly between the memory expansion slots and the larger of the two fans (the GPU might be visible if you remove the memory expansion slot cover, but it looks to be under the bridge between the fan and memory covers).

To ensure the laptop keeps as cool as possible, you might want to remove the CPU fan cover and the memory cover and make sure the fans and memory area are dust-free and CLEAN, as well as ENSURING the vent holes in those covers are also unobstructed by dust. To maximize airflow, you might consider a cooling pad to help lift the laptop a bit and also pull more cooler air to the system. I do not recommend leaving either of the covers off though, for safety reasons, but to just ensure that the vents in them are unobstructed.thanks for the reply but the fans are both for the CPU and I pulled out the heatsink and it doesn't at all have a connection with the graphics card. Both the fans are clean and I have given the CPU fresh thermal paste last week. The concept is nice, being able to easily get to various parts and even the CPU without having to disassemble the case, but putting both intakes on the bottom was silly. Restricts airflow too much on that model, which is what leads to heat problems with it.

Hi

I am not able to see cd/dvd drive.
Even it is missing in device manager.

I am using Dell Vostro 1400
OS: Windows Vista Ultimate
AntiVirus : AVG


I Installed Daemon tool than CD/DVD drive visible in Device Manager
But after uninstalling it is not visible.

Also green light is not blinking in CD/DVD TRAY and I cannot eject it .
I am using the pin to eject it .


Waiting for help.

Thanks and Regards
Varun
One of these may help:
1. Uninstall the drive through Device Manager.
Restart computer. The drive will be automatically reinstalled.
or...
2. http://support.microsoft.com/kb/982116
Restart computer.
or...
3. Download, and run Restore Missing CD Drive patch
Double click on cdgone.zip to unzip it.
Right click on cdgone.reg, click Merge.
Accept registry merge.
Restart computer.
or...
4. Go to Device Manager, click a "+" sign next to IDE ATA/ATAPI Controllers.
You'll see two items:
- ATA Channel0 (or Primary Channel)
- ATA Channel1 (or Secondary Channel)
Right click on each of them, and click Uninstall. Confirm.
Restart Windows. They'll be automatically reinstalled.Hi Broni Thanks ,  but no step is working for me

1: No CD/DVD in device manager so cannot delete.
2: Microsoft upperfiler deleted from registry no lower filer
3: reg merge not working
4: Deleted two entries from device  manager. It came back on restarting but still no CD/DVD
not in device manager and also not any LETTER drive showing.

Regards
Varun Quote

3: reg merge not working

No light is blinking in cd drive

Hi all

Tried using my speakers this afternoon and volume really low, was FINE last night. Speaker model Emachines SP-20A.

Have gone throe all settings for speakers and volume within control panel and bottom bar and all settings fine.

Only thing i have done today is computer advised update waiting to be installed, showing as XP service pack 3, installed this morning and restarted since then volume really quiet even on full. Can anybody help please as unable to do ANYTHING with AUDIO.

Cheers
AngelSP3 shouldnt have touched your audio driver. But... you could always reinstall the audio driver which might be a realtek chipset as is common in many motherboards unless you have a high end machine. GUESSING your computer is ALSO an eMachines to match those speakers, and most eMachines I have dealt with use realtek audio chipset. I would go to eMachines website if that is your make of computer and download the OEM audio driver for your model and reinstall this audio driver in place of a potentially overwritten by Microsoft Generic driver and see if that helps.

I want to upgrade the video card to support dual monitors.  Is it possible?  Which brand or version is recommended?Most CARDS with ATI or nVidia CHIPSETS will do this. Can't recommend something specific without knowing what motherboard you have and what your budget is. I could recommend a card for under $70 or one that's $700. Going to need more information on what you're upgrading.  Money really isn't an issue, but I'd like to stay within $200-250.    Here is some more info about my pc:

Component Details Subscore Base score
Processor Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Quad CPU 2.40GHz 7.1 3.6
  Determined by lowest subscore
 
Memory (RAM) 3.00 GB 7.1
Graphics NVIDIA GeForce 7350 LE 3.7
Gaming graphics 1407 MB TOTAL available graphics memory 3.6
Primary hard disk 194GB Free (298GB Total) 5.7
Windows 7 Professional

System   
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
  Manufacturer HP-Pavilion
  Model GC674AA-ABA m8120n
  Total amount of system memory 3.00 GB RAM
  System type 32-bit operating system
  Number of processor cores 4
  64-bit capable Yes
 
Storage   
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
  Total size of hard disk(s) 596 GB
  Disk partition (C:) 102 GB Free (289 GB Total)
  Disk partition (D:) 1 GB Free (9 GB Total)
  Disk partition (E:) 194 GB Free (298 GB Total)
  Media drive (F:) CD/DVD
 
Graphics   
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
  Display adapter type NVIDIA GeForce 7350 LE
  Total available graphics memory 1407 MB
        Dedicated graphics memory 128 MB
        Dedicated system memory 0 MB
        Shared system memory 1279 MB
  Display adapter driver version 8.17.12.5896
  Primary monitor resolution 1680x1050
  DirectX version DirectX 9.0 or better
 
Network   
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
  Network Adapter Intel(R) 82566DC Gigabit Network Connection
  Network Adapter USB Wireless 802.11 b/g Adaptor
  Network Adapter Virtual Machine Network Services Driver
  Network Adapter Virtual Machine Network Services Driver
  Network Adapter Microsoft Virtual WiFi Miniport Adapter
 


 
   
 
HP Pavilion Media Center m8120n Desktop PC Product Specifications

Motherboard Specifications, P5BW-LA (Basswood3G)
Motherboard does not contain onboard graphics hardware to display video. A video card must be installed.

Video card is PCI-e (PCI-Express)
You only limitation is the HP Power Supply (PSU) which says 300Watts.  A $200-250 video card will likely need more power.  The PSU should have a 12V RATING (12V ??A).  Video card will have the same rating.Hmmm, can I upgrade the PSU? Quote from: citygirl4vr on April 23, 2011, 03:21:12 PM

Hmmm, can I upgrade the PSU?

hi,Im looking for extra brass screws for a Logisys CS308RD so I can mount my MOTHERBOARD and I want to make sure I get the RIGHT size.

If someone can apply a link that would be great.

Thanks again! Take ONE to a HARDWARE store...They don'tsell them around my WAY...Even in the littlecomputer repair shop.

If they did I would have done that but thanks for the heads upon the answer I'm amazed that a PC repair shop would not have brass mounting screws for any MBoard....but if you insist...oh well.Do you mean brass hex/barrel #6-32 standoffs or the M3 screws that screw through the board into the standoffs?

Tigerdirect sells a little package that has all types of computer screws: M3 (motherboard, optical drives, floppy drives), #6-32 standoffs (screw into case to mount board on with M3 screws), and #6-32 screws (case covers, power supplies, and expansion cards). Some other pieces in the set, runs $7.99.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=31741&CatId=96Thanks egghead... that well do and patio if there is Screws around my way... they are too far to drive... The ones I went told me they use them and not for sale :    piss me off  lol Thanks quaxo... opps 
Quote from: Slayer666 on April 24, 2011, 12:41:27 PM

The ones I went told me they use them and not for sale :    piss me off  lol

Thanks to everyone in advance!!

I build a lower end pc on the cheap (under a 100) and notice my Hd video playback is choppy (not a shocker given the cost)
I was wondering what was holding me back the most and what would be the best bets for increasing playback quality.

AMD Sempron 145 Processor
  - Single core
  - 2.8GHz 45W
  - L1 Cache 64KB+64KB, L2 Cache 1Mb

Biostar MCP6P3 Board
  - NVIDIA GeForce 6150 GPU, On Board Graphic Max. Memory Share Up to 512MB(Under OS By Turbo Cache)
  - 4 x SATA2 3Gb/s Connector
  - Realtek ALC662 6-Channel HD Audio
  - 2 x DDR3 DIMM Memory Slot
  - AM3 socket

Geil DDR3 2G Memory
  - 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666)

Orion HP585D 585W Max Power Supply

Gigabyte GV-R435OC-512I
  - ATI Radeon HD 4350 GPU
  - 650Mhz
  - 64 Bit
  - GDDR2 512Mb
  - HDMI outputAlthough that CPU is a low end chip, I am running the slower $35 single core AMD 2.7Ghz Sempron 140 on my wifes computer and I dont have any HD playback issues with it.

BUT the video card I gave her might be more powerful than yours and it has twice the dedicated Video Ram as yours. Here is the card she is using. http://www.4allmemory.com/product/detail/zotac-nvidia-geforce-9500gt-1gb-ddr2-vgadvihdmi-pciexpress-video-card/

This cards specs are :


Mfr Part Number: ZT-95TEK2M-FSL
Chipset: GeForce 9500 GT
Engine Clock: 550 MHz
Video Memory: 1GB DDR2
Memory Clock: 800MHz
Memory Interface: 128-bit
Bus: PCI-Express 2.0 x16
RAMDAC: 400 MHz
Stream Processors: 32
Max. Resolution: 2560 x 1600
Connectors: VGA; DVI; HDMI
Thermal: Fansink
Support NVIDIA PureVideo HD Technology
Support NVIDIA SLI Technology
Support HDCP - High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection
Support Microsoft DirectX 10 with SHADER Model 4.0 and OpenGL 2.1
Package: Retail
RoHS Compliant



 

This card works great for her movies in HD through HDMI as well as her gaming needs in which the most advanced graphically intense game she runs, which isnt as intense as most modern games,  is World of Warcraft which you can get by with an older or even integrated GPU to play on fair settings. That 9500GT is the perfect GPU for her needs, and 1GB Video Ram means smooth playback and gaming.

I have to say that I am extremely impressed with that cheap single core CPU. She is running Windows 7 64 bit on it with 2GB system Ram and 1TB hard drive with the 9500GT as linked above, and the benchmark results ALTHOUGH are not as impressive as the best of the best is a bargain at its cheap price tag and what it can handle. She had a Pentium 4 2.8Ghz HT with 1MB Cache prior to this which acted like a dual-core with the hyperthreading, but was showing its age with Windows XP SP3 and her needs. This single core AMD was far faster than her prior Pentium 4 HT, as well as it doesnt get choked up if your multitasking. *It will however probably have issues if you use it for games though that require modern dual-core or better CPU's, but fortunately she hasnt hit any annoyances with it yet which is good for me and saving $$$$$$$$. To her she thinks she has the best of the best, although my computer is far better since I like my AMD Athlon II x4 640 3.0 Ghz 95w Quadcore.You may have already done this, but check to MAKE sure you have the correct and latest version of the driver for that card. Having old or incorrect drivers can cause video to appear choppy. (Just mentioning this because I fixed a similar issue for someone yesterday because they installed the wrong driver.)

It is a shocker though. That system should be more than capable of playing HD video. Ok, the processor isn't the newest or fastest, but it will still get the job done.Are you playing it in a flash based player such as Youtube or Dailymotion?
If so then Flash has moved to being less CPU dependent and more GPU dependent.
The easiest solution to the issue is to place a dedicated GPU in there rather than a on board chip.
that 9500GT is easily 5x better then a onboard 6150. Quote from: Kurtiskain on April 24, 2011, 02:42:02 AM

The easiest solution to the issue is to place a dedicated GPU in there rather than a on board chip.
that 9500GT is easily 5x better then a onboard 6150.

Running XP SP2 right now. upgrading to 7 help?

   Also heard a sound card could help take some of the pressure off the CPU and help with video..Any credibility to that?

Hello, im currently running an ECS HT2000 Geforce6100 SM-S V1.0, with an Amd dual core, at 2.0 . I have 4 gigs off DDR 2, and a geforce 7800 gt video card.

as you can SEE some off my parts are fairly old, i purchased a new video card, a geforce gts 450, the guy at frys said i would need a new power supply, mine currently at 350, i bought a thermaltake TR2 430w

Everything was working fine, i just wanted to upgrade my video card. Yesterday i took out my old card and power supply, connected all power cords to the new power supply, and put in my new card but system just beeps, it wont boot up. so i put back my old video card, still no change, then i put back my old power supply again no change. So now everythings back to how it was before i replaced the parts, but my comp wont turn on. when i push power it just beeps, black screen. i went thru n made sure all connectons were complete, and i only have the power n video card connected in the back.

Can anyone offer any advice? i dont wanna go to geek squad, but iono what i did wrong. :/ Quote from: un1t3dp1aya on April 24, 2011, 02:59:49 PM

...So now everythings back to how it was before i replaced the parts, but my comp wont turn on. ...

Hi all,

I am having a bit of bother, the DVD drive on my laptop is not reading or playing any disks (dvd's or cd's). I am using a acer aspire 5535, windows xp professional, sp 3. I recently installed VLC media player and was having no problems until recently now whenever I try to play a disk all I get an error message that reads:  Your input can't be opened: VLC is unable to open the MRL 'dvd://F:\'. Check the log for details.. I have tried uninstalling the vlc player and reinstalling it but still no luck. I can't even burn an AUDIO cd, I've tried to manually access it from my computer but still nothing. Would anyone have any idea of what I need to to. I hope I have given enough INFO on the problem, any help on this would be appreciated.

Thank youDo you have any CDs of DVDs that are notable?
One example is the memory test from Microsoft that boots from a CD. You can use it to test and see if the computer can read from the drive even before the operation system starts. If your laptop does not even try to boot from the CD, it would mean the the drive is not working.
Of CURSE, you need to look into the BIOS and nee if the option to boot FIRST from CD has been set up. And if the BIOS  does not even show the CD drive present, that wold be a sure sign the drive has become inactive and needs repair or replacement.
Microsoft Windows Memory Diagnostic
(To Use the program above, you have to have a PC that can burn a CD image.)try to upgrade the firmware or the DVD reader or else you will have to change the drive.
If you have access to an external optical device (cd/dvd) try that and compare the result. If it recognizes and can be used then the problem would seem more likely to be the hardware than any associated software. truenorth

I am taking some of my OLD DVDs of the OLD TV show Buck Rogers  from the  70's  and puting just some of them into  MP4  on my computer.

If I go to convert them and go to  Interlace them   the  MP4  output screen is split  the top half of screen has one video and bottum has same video and the both play.

So if I pick to De Interlace the  output  mp4  video does the same thing.

But if I pick to have  no  interlace   and no   de interlace   the output  mp4  video is ok.

I just want to know why?http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interlaced_video

Essentially, with interlacing enabled, the video is playing half of two different frames at once to make the video stay at its native framerate, but with half the BANDWIDTH being used. It can also be used to double the framerate and leave the data rate unchanged. This is helpful in reducing the amount of data being sent or stored, or increasing the apparent framerate without increasing the bandwidth used. However, it doesn't seem the output is being RENDERED properly by whatever program you're using, or the MP4 encoder isn't encoding the interlaced frames correctly.I have NTSC  DVDs so I use these setings to convert to MP4

Resalotion 640x480
Frame Rate  29.97 FPS
Aspect Ratio 4:3
Audio 44.1 kHz 128 kbps
De Interlace Set to NO
Interlace Set to NO

They all comeout GOOD and play nice.  But if I set Interlace to YES  they play in split screen one image on top half and one image on bottum half scree.

I got GeForce 8400 GS

My CPU is Dimension C521

What info do you need?BUmpWhat's your question? Quote from: Allan on APRIL 24, 2011, 01:44:07 PM

What's your question?

There are no compatibility issues with displays. The only thing you need to know is if you have a dvi connection or simply analog to your video card.

How do you know that?

i installed a new hd in my laptop,that was setup for xp pro. but i put xp home on it.didnt think it would matter. i cant get it to do anything.it says i need to register it, but that xp home came with my desktop.i cant activate it.what do i have to do to get this thing working? i thought i installed a DRIVER to get me on the internet, but it wont.i guess i bit off more than i can chew!!!!! any info would be nice... thx,confused!!!I really can't follow your POST at all.Let me guess...
His HD on the laptop got zapped.
Bought a new one.
The only XP CD he has is for his desktop...   
You will need to FIND a copy of XP pro to install.

Some laptop manufacturers provide recovery DISKS that you can order from their website. These are usually inexpensive. You just have to pay the cost of shipping.


Or, if the old hard DRIVE is still functional, you can clone it to your new hard drive.

I recently purchased two 1GB SODIMM PC2700 DDR 200 pin to upgrade the memory on my Acer Aspire 5003wlmi laptop. After removing the original 512mb memory, I placed the two 1GB chips in the memory slots, but the computer won't turn on properly (the fan engages for about 2 seconds, then shuts off. The screen stays blank and only the green power light stays on). After consulting with Acer's support, they concluded that my motherboard does not support the chips because I need to update my BIOS.

I understand how sensitive updating the BIOS is and want to do this properly. I downloaded the zip file provided by Acer's support site for my laptop, which included WinPhlash, but do not know which file to flash to update. There is a file that I think is the update called ZL53A32.WPH.

Anyone have any suggestions? I just want to upgrade the memory on my laptop because I'm sick and tired of how slow it runs. Please help!
Link to the zip and I can try and figure it out.http://global-download.acer.com/GDFiles/BIOS/BIOS/BIOS_3A32.zip?acerid=633643243476341057&Step1=NOTEBOOK&Step2=ASPIRE&Step3=ASPIRE%205000&OS=ALL&LC=en&BC=ACER&SC=PA_7
It appears that you just have to run the setup program. I can't test it though, because I am not admin.I just noticed that there is a PDF that explains the steps. It's called "Win Flash Update SOP". It's in the zip.I had already followed the SOP Manual provided in the zip file, but I'm stuck on Step 10 (Select the correct BIOS in the BIOS folder). The manual does not show a specific file - only a generic picture, thus I do not know if the file ZL53A32.WPH is the file intended to flash to update the BIOS for my computer. Quote from: Gretz98 on April 28, 2011, 11:29:42 AM

...I do not know if the file ZL53A32.WPH is the file intended to flash to update the BIOS for my computer...

K, that's what I was thinking, but given the potential for disaster I've been reading about when it comes to updating your BIOS I wanted to be 100% sure.

Anything I should know before flashing that file? I'm going to backup some files before doing it. Like I said, just a little nervous about this since a bad flash can crash the system.

Now I'm really stuck. I flashed the file and WinPhlash came up with "The current system BIOS is the same version (or newer) than the version you are trying to flash, so the BIOS will not be changed."

Since I apparently can't update BIOS, any ideas on how I can get those RAM chips to work?

...After consulting with Acer's support, they concluded that my motherboard does not support the chips because I need to update my BIOS....

It started happening today, never had issues with this before. Computer freezes and I get the bluescreen saying:
Quote

A problem has been detected...........The device driver GOT stuck in an infinite loop. This usually indicates a problem with the device itself or with the device driver PROGRAMMING.
Technical information:
*** STOP: 0X000000EA (0X88A42DA8, 0X899FEE88, 0XA8B14CB4, 0X00000001)

ati2dvag
Beginning dump of physical memory
Physical memory dump complete

CPU: Intel Dual-Core E6700 ~ 3,2 GHz
Memory: 2048 MB RAM
Graphic: ATI Sapphire RADEON HD3650 GDDR3 512 MB

After restart works fine... it's on for half an hour now

Ok, I got a 22" LED monitor, resolution 1920x1080, got it from Office Max, the brand is an "AOC", model E2243FWK, reg. price $159.00 it was on sale for $119.00. It works great, only have to figure it out, it didn't come with a manual. I had to change my resolution settings, all my pictures looked stretched when I open them up. I changed it to the max, 1920x1080, but now everything looks so small when I open it, should I keep going less untill I get it the way I like? Also the screen is very bight, is there anyway to adjust the brightness? The names and numbers under my pictures, and even when I type, they look so light, not bold, some letters look like they're MISSING in spots, is this something I have to change too? I love the screen, just don't know how to adjust it right. Thanks......What OS are you running? It could be both on the Windows operating system, display settings(for onboard video or graphics card) and the monitor itself. Some monitors have auto adjust for brightness or a main menu for you to configure. You could also look under display properties.
Quote

it didn't come with a manual

...the brand is an "AOC", model E2243FWK...

I have 2 Physicall DRIVES, 64GIG SSD and a 750 GIG HD.  I am running Windows 7 32B Home Premium.  I have attached a pricture of how my drives are configured.  As you can see, Disk 0 has a  my logical drive N in the same place as my Physical 64 GiG SSD.
I can not open and view anything on logical drive N (100 GiGs), it contains about 27 GIGS of Files.  How can I CHANGE logical drive N to show up as a drive attached to my 750GIG HD.  Thanks STEVE


[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by ADMIN]stevener11, the picture shows three drives.
What is your problem?
IMO, part of your issue you need to give short unique  names (labels) to your drives and partitions. Stop calling then C D E F and so on. The drive letters change. And you can  have a drive without a letter and still be part of the files system. If you want. But once Windows assigns letters, you ought to leave them. Changing the label of the drive is OK and it helps one to organize things.

In Windows 7 there is no need to call a drive a 'logical' drive. In fact, the picture you show does not have any drives called 'logical' drives. Notice they are all called primary drives.

Which drive is it that you can not find? The picture is not wide enough to see all the names and letters.

hey guys i bought computer parts(RAM motherboard cpu case+ps and hard drve) i have put 2gether myself(cert 2 in I.t) and i get a screen at startup with options like boot menu and stuff i figured i had to TELL it to boot from cd to install windowss but whenever i put n a keyboard itdoesnt work so i cant PRESS F12 and get in2 boot menu. any ideas? usb slot is wired

parts:

4Gb ram ddr3
1TB samsung internal hard drivE
Gigabyte 880GA-UD3H(motherboard)
AMD phenom IIThe keyboard has to be present before you turn on power.ik still no difDoes the keyboard have lights? Do they flash?
You may need another keyboard.Try different usb ports. I have this happen to me on occasion too. Try a port, if it doesnt work, restart, move to next port, making sure its plugged in before you turn it back on ^^^^
Trial and error worked for me on this one Does this computer only have USB ports for a keyboard, or does it also have the OLDER PS/2 port? Some with a PS/2 ( round port ) have the default in the BIOS set to only use this port. You need a PS/2 keyboard to be able to get into the bios to tell it to use USB.

Hello guys , I read before registration that there's many experts here available to give TRUSTWORTHY advice, so I wondered if any of you could please help me out, this is my inquiry:

I have a computer that works with an electricity voltage of a 110v, power outlets where I live work with 220v, I use an adapter and as a result my computer works fine. The problem is.. I would like to connect a printer to my computer and this printer works with 220v, I'm really worried that doing that might damage my computer also I wonder if they would be compatible at all.

Thanks in advance and thank you guys for your patience
Kind regards, Gene.I can't see the way the printer is powered and the way the computer is powered being much of an issue, as long as they are powered independently. Would the only connection between them be usb? If so then I can't see it being a problem.
Not an electrical genius by any means so you might want to let one of the genius's round here weigh in. They will work fine together.
I am sure this will work fine. I am living in a country which uses 220v and my old laptop from the US only had a 110v adapter and it worked fine with a 220v printer from here.Digital electronics works on low DC voltages, 5 to 12 volts usually. Inside each piece of equipment, PC, printer, monitor, modem, scanner, router, whatever, there is a section usually called the "power supply". Or sometimes you have an external "wall wart" for the smaller items. This converts the AC voltage from the wall outlet to the low DC voltage used internally. You can connect any piece of equipment to any other with USB or serial or parallel cables without worrying. Just like if you had a 220 volt TV and a 110 volt VCR or DVD player. Hello guys, thanks a lot for your prompt and very helpful answers, I really appreciate them! 

Lumpy44, yes, the only connection between the two would be usb. I thought voltage was an issue because in a way it was to start using the computer without any worries, but as you said and after what Salmon Trout explained I'm sure they'll work fine.
Thanks a lot for your answer.

Salmon Trout, Thanks a lot for your detailed explanation, I really appreciate it, thank you so much!

Quaxo, thank you very much for your answer, I hope I have the same good experience as you did, I'm sure I will.

Thank you guys again for your prompt and very helpful advice.
Gene

My monitor has VIBRATING lines all across the screen as if it is stretched out. It happens after the monitor has been turned on for 20 minutes or so and goes away if I turn it off and on again. The system still works properly (if I click on an icon it still functions). The lines seem to be WORSE on the sides. I don't KNOW how to post pictures but I have images of it. Please help. What could cause this to happen?When you REPLY to this, you can click on "Additional Options..." and it will drop down with a place to attach a FILE (700kb limit, so if the image is larger than that you'll need to shrink it).

Is this a CRT or LCD screen? (If you don't know, CRTs are the larger, older type monitors and LCD are the newer, flat-screen monitors.)

It sounds like to me that either the monitor is dying (most likely) or the video card is dying (less likely, but possible). There might be other possibilities, like overheating of the video card, but we'll see after viewing that picture.Ive heard of some speakers and or other monitors being too close to each other causing some sort of interference in the screen output. Shot in the dark but who knows.It is a Sony LCD that came with my Vaio desktop.

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]Is that the whole screen that's blurry or just the picture? If it's just the picture, I'm not seeing the problem.The whole screen is blurry. Its like it is shifted in pieces. Here is a comparison.

[recovering disk space - old attachment deleted by admin]I know what it should look like normally. My question was if your photo was blurry or if the screen was blurry. It's impossible to say from that picture though, it's just just not clear enough for whatever reason.

Try swapping out the monitor with another one (if available). If it works fine, it's the other monitor. If it doesn't, it's either the cable or the video card.

my computer and monitor are on but the screen does not show anything (black), so what can i do to fix it.Are the VGA or HDMI connections at the back of the computer and the back of the monitor correct / tight?

What happens when you first turn on the computer and monitor?  Any displays at all?no any display and it is still black Any screen at all on boot ? ?tumsime rajab, 1st order of business is welcome to the CH forums. In order to make your time here with us as fruitful and rewarding as possible i would like to enlighten you as to some proper forum PROTOCOL (not only this ONE but all forums). Posting your topic as "Hi" may be an acceptable way of introducing yourself on a social forum but on the CH you will be RESPONDED to more readily and with more potential benefit if you state the real issue that you want us to help you with. As an example from your own post" screen does not show anything (black)" would have helped us to know what your issue is that you want help with. Then when it comes to actual help being forthcoming the post Allan has made in the thread of your post should become your habit when you desire our help. Hope that this advice to you will lead to a more fruitful mutual involvement of yourself as a new member and those of us here on CH that DEVOTE our efforts to trying to help you and others. For your guidance,truenorthDo you have another computer on which you can see if this monitor works?

When you turn on the monitor by itself, do you get any kind of display, such as "No Signal"?

Alan and True have good points here.  We will certainly try to help you, but try to provide us with what information you can.yes, nothing on the screen at all, so what else can i do
When you turn it on, does the computer appear to be booting at all? For example, is there a POST beep? Are the fans spinning? Is there any drive activity? Does it make a sound as if booting into Windows?

What brand and type of monitor is it? Does the monitor say anything on it such as "No signal" or "Check cable"? Is the monitor status light on? What color is the monitor status light? Does the monitor appear to be powered on at all? Have you checked that both the power and signal cables are securely connect?

Have you recently made any hardware CHANGES in the computer?

Keep in mind that we cannot see the computer. Simply asking "what can I do" without providing information prevents us from rendering any kind of help. Give as much detail as you can: computer specs, sounds, behavior, lights, smells, etc. Only then can we do anything for you.

when i plug it in, my computer says unknown device and itunes doesn't open up or anything. I tried reinstalling itunes and everything. So how do  i FIX this problem. its a ipod shuffle and im using windows 7.Has it ever worked PROPERLY on that computer before? Are you trying it in a REAR usb PORT? Can you still access your itunes library without the device?truenorthit worked on my computer once but im trying it on my LAPTOP now and it doesn't read it at allHave you gone through the process to synch it to the laptop. I use an older ipod shuffle and i remember having to synch it to the computer before i could have it recognized. Here are a couple of sites to give you guidance on that.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1719
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1351
Good luck,truenorth

My Compaq Presario c500 will not turn on when plugged int a/c power.  The indicator lights constantly blink or flicker,  If I unplug a/c and install a charged battery the indicator lights glow constant an the machine will boot on.  If I then plug in the a/c power, the machine will function properly as long as the battery has a charge.  The charge does not run down as fast when the a/c is plugged in as it does when operating on battery alone.  I have changed the hard drive, ram and power jack, checked for DRIVER updates and current BIOS all to no avail.  Short of trashing the motherboard, is there anything else I can do to try to resolve this problem?  I have heard o several OTTERS having the same problem wit their C500 and one person with the same or a similar problem with a Toshiba L305.Sounds like power supply is weak if it cant keep up with draw to keep laptop running. The boot with power supply attached and having problems sure sounds like a weak power supply. Do you have a meter available to measure the voltage under load to make sure its stabile and not pulsing or too low? Or a second power supply adapter to eliminate this?
I just tried it with three different, known good power supplies with the same flickering results.  I agree, it sounds like it's not getting enough power from the a/c supple which is why I changed out the power jack ad connector.  I suppose it's possible the second one I used was also defective.  I don't know enough about circuit boards to check the circuit from the power jack cable and the motherboard which I suppose could be weak or have a crack in the solider???  I know just enough to get into trouble if I start trying to do more than the basics!You had 3 Compaq laptop PSU's just lying around ? ?I have nine Compaq Laptops "just lying around".  I buy ones with problems I can FIX and are at a respectible price, fix them then sell them a a very reduced price or donate them to studets, economically disadvantaged persons and the like. I live on  fixed income (soc sec disability) and know what it's like to need something for school, work, or to just make life better and it's my way of giving back by helping to provide computers to those who might not otherwise be able to afford one.  I enjoy the challange of figuring out what's wrong with the computer, taking a unusable one and returning it to functionality if I can even though it can be frustrating at times.Nice...
You are to be commended for your efforts...Thanks!  This problem with the power on issue really has me stumped. I think I may END up EITHER using the machine for parts of wait to get another motherboard for it.  I've tried everything I can think of.  Hopefully one of you more experienced, more know ledgable  members will have  solution.

Hi,

I have recently had a problem with Soundblaster Live! 24 on my Dell Dimension 9100, Windows XP, where the left and right channels are coming out of both the left and right speakers (from the test on Creative Settings).  Only a few days ago they were coming out of the correct speakers (left from left, right from right only).

There is a really loud static noise, even when I've turned the system sound down low, with the speaker volume on normal level.  I have TRIED installing all of the updates to the drivers, but cannot find a solution.

Any help is much appreciated.Have you added any additonal sound cables to the speakers, as in, to make the cable longer?
It sounds like you know what you are doing so I assume you have checked all of the settings to be sure that Stereo is set and not mono.Sounds like something has a short in it somewhere and the two channels are getting merged on both sides, which sometimes gives that buzzing noise regardless of what the volume is set to. Try plugging something ELSE in, like headphones or another set of speakers, and see if the problem persists. If you don't hear it through headphones or other speakers, it's possible your current speaker's wires are damaged.

That's not a bad card, I had one for years and years and it's still in use in my girlfriend's system. I upgraded to an Creative X-Fi card on my last build.Thanks for the replies.

Foresthill - no additional cables, just the standard ones with Dell speakers - I should have mentioned before it is a 2.1 system with the left speaker going through the subwoofer into the right speaker, then the right speaker into the sound card.  I've triple checked all the settings and even CHANGED them to see if it makes any difference, but it doesn't unless I'm missing one somewhere

Quaxo - I'm getting the same problems through headphones on the front headphone socket, but I'll try a different set of speakers and check for any obvious wear and tear on the cables and let you know - it is buzzing regardless of the volume though.  It is a really good card though, so I hope it isn't on it's way out!

I have tried uninstalling Soundblaster and re-installing (I tried to make this the last resort!), but it still came back as before with the buzzing...Did you try unplugging the speakers when you plugged in the headphones to the front? If there's a short in the speaker cable, it's possible that it might just be feeding back through, so make sure they're unplugged when you try it. You could even try plugging the headphones into the back while you're at it.

If you're still getting the buzz after that, there is probably a problem with the card and it will be EASIER to just replace it.

I use my computer pretty hardcore compared to most computer users, and as a result I tend to destroy the hardware rather fast. On my previous laptop (which was admittedly poorly cooled) I had it repired 57 times over the course of it's 1.5 year LIFESPAN. This time around, I didn't make the same mistake with the cooling, so I can rule that out. Additionally, I did extensive checking for viruses using, but not limited to HijackThis, BitDefender, Trend Micro, Spybot S&D, AdAware, and SuperAntiSpyware. So I can probably rule out it being malware, too. I've had this computer for about a year, so because of that and the aforementioned facts, I'm pretty sure a hardware component is failing. I don't know which one, but that's what I'm here to discuss.

My computer runs Windows 7, with a 60 gig OCZ Vertex and a 1 TB regular HDD. i7 processor, Gigabyte P55-U3DL mobo, 2x 2gig OCZ memory, nVidia 570 graphics card, and a Corsair Pro 750w PSU. I built it myself, and let me tell ya, it didn't run so terribly when I first built it. The first symptom was files taking a long time (~500ms) to read or write. As time has gone on, this delay has become longer to the point where it's around 4-5 seconds. I wasn't able to pinpoint which component it is, so I just DEALT with it for a while. Now, however, video will tend to stutter; in varying ways, too. Video game rendering will run at a solid 50 FPS (it's capped because I have an LCD) no matter what game I play, but any time the visible area moves, the game will drop to a ridiculously bad 5-10 FPS. Without the FPS cap, most games will easily go to 150-200 FPS, so I find this to be very odd. Secondly, any video I play will randomly stop and sit there as if it's buffering, even though the bar could be completely full. After a few seconds it'll resume playing as normal. I tried reinstalling the video drivers, to no avail.

I checked the SMART info on both drives, the SSD shows read/write errors, and the HDD shows ridiculously high spin-up times. I'm thinking this could point to either a SATA Controller malfunction (the mobo) or both drives are failing simultaneously. The only reason I won't rule out both the HDD/SSD failing is because I had two Hard drives fail simultaneously a few years back. I don't want to replace the motherboard and still have a poorly performing system. Unfortunately, I don't have a HDD I can just swap out to test if it is indeed the motherboard. So, what other way could I go about figuring out which component is failing, if not through swapping parts?You appear to have adequate ram but have you tested to see if they are all functioning. Heating issues (as you have learned from previous times ) can also cause this type of erratic behavior. Have you tried using a cooling pad when your using it? truenorthI forgot to specify this is a desktop. It's got like 8 fans so it never goes over 45 CELSIUS. (I run a temp monitor.)

I haven't tested the ram yet actually though, so I'll GIVE that a shot. Usually my computer would BSoD when the RAM died, but I figure there's no reason to rule it out until it's been tested.Memory scan came back clean, so I'm guessing by the lack of responses I just have to go find some random hardware and swap it out to see if it makes a difference.I am not a "gamer" myself but given your track record re by your own admission re how much you push your computers and how often you have failures i have a suggestion. I suspect that some (maybe most) of your problems emanate from hard drive issues (speed/access/amount of use). Have you considered that due to your gaming use requirements you might be better off with this?
http://www.terapvp.com/threads/hard-drive-recommendation-for-tera.14/#axzz1KjoYiB6q
truenorthI would say its the HDD. As they start to fail and wear out the amount of CPU usage getting data off of them increases a great deal. Another SSD or new HDD would be the best bet I would say. I know this from running mapping computers in my day to day. My HDD die in about a year and really strain the CPU when they are on the way out.

All of the sudden, while doing whatever, sometimes after 20 min, sometimes after 4 hours, my VIDEO output will fail. The monitor light goes from green to yellow, and I get a "no signal". Upon reboot, it WORKS fine. I'm currently trouble shooting each card with "BurnInTest", switching around PCI-E slots ect. The cards are not old at all..... less than a year. I have An ASUS P6Tv2 and 2xHD5850 Visiontek with a 1200W PSU. Anyone run into this before? Could it hopefully, worst case SCENARIO, SIMPLY be a bad PSU? Quote from: pcjoseph1974 on April 29, 2011, 05:22:52 AM

...
1.  I'm currently trouble shooting each card ..
2.  Anyone run into this before?
3.  Could it hopefully, worst case scenario, simply be a bad PSU?

Hello all,  novice here with a problem.  I am (ENJOYING) building a PC but I am having a problem.  I am taking an IDE dvd BURNER from my very OLD PC and trying to install it into the new build.  How can I connect the IDE dvd burner to the SATA dvd burner that is in the new computer? Do I need some kind of SATA to IDE adapter?  If so, where can I find it?  Thanks for any help or suggestions. TAre you sure your motherboard has no IDE connector?  Many have only one.
They do make adapters, but I haven't had much success with them.  It's almost as cheap to buy a new burner.Some boards don't have them now. My new board does, but if it didn't, it wouldn't matter as I'm not using it.

If there's no connector and you have a SATA drive, I'd just leave the IDE out unless you're planning on doing lots of disc to disc on the fly burning.

I believe there are adapters, can't tell you where at the MOMENT, posting this from my phone.

Hi there, i have a toshiba netbook Model name is TOSHIBA NB200-10J s/no 59128264K.
The trouble is that i was charging my mobile phone and decided to connect the mobile phone to my netbook via phone cable, the moment i did that, the netbook just went off and that was the beginning of trouble, it never booted after that.
I got black screen with these error messages below:

''For Realtek RTL8101E/8102E(L)/8103E(L) PCIE Etherenet Controller V1.13 (081016)
PXE-E61:Media Test Failure, CHECK cable
PXE-MOF:EXITING PXE ROM
This product is covered by one or more of the following petents US5 307,459 US5 434,872 US5 732,094 US6 570 884 US6 116,776 & US6 327,625''

then after a few seconds the same thing repeats and goes on continously.
I figured i shoud plug in the Ethernet cable since i was always using wireless connection to Router so i did that and the PXE-E61:Media test failure, check cable error message line disappeared but the other LINES remained, however it took a step further and stated the MAC address and then got to DHCP.... and NOTHING happened.

I still cannot use my netbook and i have no idea what has happened.If the device is still under warranty, you should consider returning it. It could have suffered a coincidental failure unrelated to the phone or you could have caused damage to motherboard components because the phone was trying to draw charging current from the USB port. Alternatively, the USB port could be physically damaged, causing a short circuit. Either WAY, repair attention is needed.

Hello everyone,

I have a Viewsonic VNB101 NETBOOK . I have a problem with the BIOS.
In legacy- boot type order i cannot do a hard DISK device order i can see the HDD but cannot order it. And when clicking on it it says that there is no bootable device found.

The following is a link to the BIOS of this Netbook.
http://www.viewsoniceurope.com/uk/assets/048/12447.pdf (It's on the last pages)

I am 100% sure the HDD is fine. I have tried all the steps stated there but it won't work. Is there anyone that knows how I can do Hard disk order. Like I said I can see the HDD but cant order it.
I will really appreciate any HELP. Please do not post the question more than once. I deleted your other post.

Hey, our laptop  stopped charging afew WEEKS AGO, the charger light is green but the minute you plug it in to the laptop the light starts flashing and the COMPUTER is STILL dead.
 We thought it was the charger so we bought a new one so its obviously not that.
Its driving me insane lol HELP!!hey

is your Laptop still new? and under guarantee? if it is then i think u should just take it to the MANUFACTURER you bought it from, it might be the problem with the battery.

So I need to connect a device (Hauppauge HD PVR) with my computer. The device is at a range of +/- 10 METERS from my computer and NEITHER of them can be replaced.

This is what I have:

• 8 * 1.5 USB extensioncable (male-female)

When I attach my USB hub to my computer and I plug the hub into the electrical out  and then plug a USB flash drive in the hub I GET the following message:

! USB Low Power Notice !
The USB device cannot operate because it needs more power than is available. To correct this problem you can:

1- Plug the device into and electrical outlet if it has a power cord.
2-Unplug the device and plug it into another USB port on your computer or other device that is plugged into power  cord.

I tried removing the USB flash and plugging it into a another port on the Hub but still get the same message. Help ??!!Are you sure that the hub is receiving power from the MAINS (usually indicated by a light)? Is it definitely plugged in at the socket and at the unit? Are you using the correct power adapter?This is a Mac, right?
All CONNECTIONS are correct and YES it is a Mac..................why ?? Quote

! USB Low Power Notice !

Probably need to preface my remarks by explaining that i am located in a 3rd world country with inconsistent power supply issues , blackouts , etc. About a month ago i turned on my computer one am and the voltage regulator blew a fuse . Replace the fuse and had power to some items but not computer itself . Later determined that power supply had been damaged so installed new power supply and voltage regulator and added additional fan .

Of late i am starting to have some other issues that i am trying to pin down . Note , i run Linux - Ubuntu but don't know if that matters in regards to my basic search for advice ? Was unable to boot my machine one am as the initialization process would not complete but was able to get back to my original data via command (DOS) terminal common to Linux . Further diagnosis shows my hard drive with 8 bad sectors with a warning .

I guess i am asking if the blown voltage regulator could have also done some damage to the motherboard and/or hard drive which is causing some of my issues ?Trying to determine how to proceed in either buying new or doing upgrade of existing unit . Am presently using a computer build that is approximately 5 years old with some added memory and a hard drive that is approx. 6 months old .

My first thought is to replace hard drive after backing up data but am also thinking if there are motherboard issues would that likely cause issues in new hard drive ? Second thought is to replace board , processor & hard drive . I live on a fixed income so a new purchase is not as easy on me as replacing components named . Just not sure my logic is logical and would appreciate how others might approach solving my issues .   

Thanks in advance for any INPUT you might have to offer ..My wife and I lived in a backward country for some time. Power failures were common.
Years before this I was trained in Broadcast and electronic repair.

My experience with computers shows hard drive failure is more common that either power supply or motherboard failure. For awhile In worked in Hard Drive research in California, i  Silicon Valley. In that part of the world power failures are very rare.

Many third world contrives are in  the tropical zone near the equator. In some areas electrical storms are very frequent  with  houses not properly grounded to protect fro electric discharge from a rainstorm. This along with a developing electrical system can promote serious damage to electronic devices.

Can you boot Linux from a 'live' CD and run the computer well? If so, this may indicate the problem is in the Hard Drive.Thanks for your input .

Most recently when i could not get in through the normal boot process and had a "no init found" message i used an old 9.10 live cd to get to the desktop and then via terminal command was able to bring back the current 10.10 . However , i did not SPEND any significant time actually using the live cd to do anything such as surfing but in the past with similar issues regarding "corrupt files" , "unmounts" , etc i have been able to function with the live cd .

Since you seem to have some familiarity with Linux i will mention that the most recent "no init" problem was caused by my clicking the mouse to switch to another desktop account . I only mention that because this am when i switched to another desktop i noticed that the Log in/Log out - switch - turn off function in the top toolbar had disappeared and been replaced by an ic client . The same thing occurred on a third desktop account but not on the admin  desktop..   :-)

Just really funky stuff going on so that's why i am wondering if it might be motherboard vs hd .The motherboard components that read your CD and the same or almost the same as the ones that read the Hard drive.
The Linux Live CD is able to do most of the things you want.
That is why I said that if the Linux CD works normally with mostly satisfactory performance, the issue is poor quality of the Hard drive.

Try a spare hard drive and install again.
Or reformat the old drive and install again.
Your important things should be on a DVD or CD as backup.

A full format of a hard drive may resolve the internal issues of the hard drive sector map. An old trick I have used is to divide to partitions and determine if the errors are in a specific area.

If is piratical to have the errors in a small partition and use the rest of the drive a new installation. The boot partition does not have to be the first partition.

Often more errors re at the start and the END of the physical disc.

Seagate and others have floppy disks programs to diagnose hard drives.

http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/support/downloads/seatools
I read you and i will download the Seagate tool as i am using one of their hard drives . I may or may not be able to run the executable program via 3rd party Wine platform as some will be allowed and some won't BASED on source & signatures . After backup will reformat and try fresh install and see what happens . Let you know what happens. thanks again for the input.

retiredYou could download SeaTools for DOS
Quote

SeaTools for DOS tests SATA or ATA drives from a bootable CD-ROM or floppy. It can test a SATA (Serial ATA) or older ATA (PATA/IDE) interface hard drive. Because the software boots to its own operating system you can test your drive regardless of the OS installed on it. You can even test a new or completely blank drive. In addition, this version offers limited repair and data erasure.

can anyone help me,to make a recovery disk of my DRIVE C:, i want to make a bootable recovery disk which i can use to recover or rollback may drive C: from my fresh install with some of the software that i always install when i format my computer. any one can help? and if your gonna sudgest norton GHOST, i DONT have any EXTRA drive thats why i want to have a recovery DVD.thanks in advanceCannot be done without a second drive/partition...thats how all image APPS work...

I've done a bit of research into WOL, but I'm having a HARD time FINDING out whether or not my motherboard (MSI 870A-G54) supports it. If anyone could give me some instructions of what to do at BIOS to enable WOL, that would be great.After a quick glance at the motherboard manual, no it doesn't support it.What are you trying to do?  Since your MB doesn't support WOL and you just want to boot it REMOTELY there are other options using AC power controllers.

My computer is not starting i.e, system is running but no display.
when my computer was running i just turned it off and attached a sata to IDE adapter to a ide hub and then connected  a sata hard drive which contains windows vista. Then my computer opens but no display, nextly an error message came (i forgot that error message saying something like pci ...). After that i turned on my computer but monitor does not start up i.e, no reply from my system to monitor, monitor works fine and power supply also.

Pentium 4 Quote

and then connected  a sata hard drive which contains windows vista

attached a sata to ide adapter to a ide hub and then connected  a sata hard drive which contains windows vista.

Hi, first time poster.

I've GOT an HP Pavillion p6653w with Windows 7 64-bit.

Normally, during USE, the power button is a LIGHT blue and everything works fine. After a duration of non-use, the machine goes into a "sleep" mode and the power button turns a semi-orange. The computer would awaken from this mode with a simple space bar and begin functioning properly.

Two days ago, however, the machine seemed to be in this sleep mode, but the power button was its light blue. I tried the space bar, mouse, and a variation of keystrokes, but no prevail. I turned the machine off with the power button.

Upon turning it back on, it started with its usual sounds, yet nothing seemed to be responding. The monitor was black, the num lock light off, and the mouse wasn't illuminated. I tried an assortment of keystrokes, including multiple ctrl+alt+del. The speakers don't even project.

I tried unplugging cords, plugging cords back in, while the machine was on, while it was off. Nothing seems to work. I've yet to open her up, but I'm afraid I'll screw something up.

So, I turned the machine off, and am now waiting on some insight. I've found nothing on the web similar to this situation, but it's difficult to search for.
Any advice? Quote from: kennyrulz72 on April 29, 2011, 07:03:11 AM

Upon turning it back on, it started with its usual sounds, yet nothing seemed to be responding. The monitor was black, the num lock light off, and the mouse wasn't illuminated.

I am researching parts for a SOLIDWORKS workstation.

I am trying to figure out what combination of hardware would give the fastest write times for the large files involved.

My initial hardware choices are a Gigabyte motherboard (GA-X58A-UD3R) with an Intel i7-970 PROCESSOR and 12Mb of ram, then a pair of WD Caviar Black 1Tb hard drives (WD1002FAEX) attached to the SATA 6 bus.

Any other opinions out there?

Thanks Quote

Any other opinions out there?

My COMP: Dell Inspiron e1505, windows xp, service pack 3, integrated graphics card, 1gig ram, intel t2300 1.66 ghz, and i use avg free VERSION for anti virus.

So within the last week and a half/two weeks while playing a browser game and when watching videos on any program i use (divx, wmp, and vlc) the blacks have started to get lines and patterns of pixels that change from orange to white and occasionally some blues. It doesnt happen at all when doing anything other than playing the game or watching videos but as soon as i do it starts getting the goofy colors and it only happens on deep blacks. Im not finding any viruses and so far i havent found anyone else with the same problem. Just WONDERING if anyone here has had this happen to them or knows what is happening. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank yaHave you tried uninstalling Divx first, or any recent changes/settings reverted? Your laptop documentation also shows video memory allocation under BIOS settings(128 mb max.). Have you tried toggling it?Ill try dropping divx and see if that helps at all and ive started to think the program i downloaded to play bs online might have something to do with it. As for my bios, i set a password on it a few years ago and the hard drive was dead for around a year and a half til i got a new one, so being dumb ENOUGH to put a password on something no one else would mess with, i forgot it. Need to break the password but i havent needed to do anything bios related since i got it running again so i just havent done it yet.