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when I try to load windows ME on my COMPUTER I get a 167 no processor bios found.  I don't even know what this means???it won't let my windows ME to RESTART during my OS load. HELLO,
shut ur COMP down en LOOK at ur proses, make shure all the pin are in tack and streight and the prosses is cliped onto the mb firmly, try that first then at least ull know for sure  
                                                                          ,Zukru

Hey have you ever seen computers for slots for 2 kinds of CPU? I have I wonder what Happens if you put a Cpu in each one.

Ex. A pentium II is diffrent from the celeron slot.. I hope it doesn't explode on me  I REALLY wouldn't do that if I were you........

"What's the last thing a REDNECK says before he dies?
'Hey, Y'all watch this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!' "
(I am a redneck so it is ok for me to repeat that joke)I had one of those.  There was a jumper to enable one or the other, but not both.

hi i new here anyways my pro is i have a hp xg823 thats working but the case isnt big enought i would like to change it out to a full size one with a bigger power supply i know its an old machine but runs great just wanting to upgrade into more better case so i can have 2 more drives like ANOTHER cd drive and a hd any help out there ?            Fisrt of all, whats your mobo type AT or ATX?? Better look for a case that can contain the same type of mobo or else you wont be able to screw it up. The must check for the PS/2 and COM , LPT slot are compatible with the case or that the case can be modify in that part by REMOVING the metal grid at the back.the hp has a atx power supply so it should be ago im replacing a msi k7t pro2 with the xg823 moter board the main reson is the msi board is leaking out the caps i know the msi board is better but have to have comp too and that way ill have room for latter for better mother board and have the hands on doing one ill post back what i find thanksblue_caddy..... If you have a ATX compatible mobo ....heres a case that should do what you want.
Extraordinary X-Case!
Introducing the latest and greatest gaming case from the fabled XG series. The incredible X-CASE! It’s the wildest looking case we’ve ever seen – bold and futuristic - with dazzling lights and glorious colors. The extraordinary X-Case is designed for the extreme user – with five open 5.25-inch bays and one open 3.25-inch bay, plus convenient top I/O ports for 1394, USB 2.0, speaker and microphones. And it boasts an incredibly cool control knob engraved with the new XG logo that regulates the look of the X-Case’s fabulous 12 LED lights! You can modify the SPEED and spread of the lights, as well as the on and off functions! The X-CASE features state-of-the-industry airflow technology, tool FREE drive, PCI slot, and fan clips. If you’re an extreme gamer looking for a case that will captivate and overwhelm your opponents with its killer looks and fabulous functionality, the X-CASE is exactly what you need! Order your X-CASE today at our rock-bottom price!

Specifications

Case Type: ATX Mid-Tower
Compatible Motherboards:
- ATX
- MATX
Drive Bays:
- 5x External 5.25" Drive Bays
- 1x External 3.5" Drive Bays
- 4x Internal 3.5" Drive Bays
Expansion Slots: 7
Front Media Ports:
- 2x Front USB Ports
- 2x Front Audio Ports
- 1x Firewire Port
Cooling System:
- 1x 80mnm Fans
- 1x 92mm Fan
Material:
- Steel Chasis

check out the cases here......

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Category/category_tlc.asp?CatId=32

hope this helps you .

dl65  







i got it running np just had to move a couple of mounting clips now its a modded hp  lol

I've got a 2002 Dell PC, with Pentium 3 Processor running Windows XP, and beefed up with a little extra memory.
My system was running beautifully, until a few nights ago when, after allowing a hot steam humidifier to run in the room for a few hours, the screen froze (any correlation between the steam and the freeze is purely speculation).
After shutting the system down, and allowing it to 'rest' for a bit, I turned it on only to smell burning plastic, however all seemed well. The bios loaded nicely, and windows loaded. My wallpaper showed up and programs set to open automatically did so, then, however, the screen froze and SOON thereafter went black and then dark gray. It seems that the system just died - or at least the video card. It was still running, but there wasn't anything on the screen and the keyboard was frozen (num Lock and Caps Lock didn't function).
I tried turning the system off and on a few times but with the same result.
However, I found that the system would load perfectly in Safe Mode. I did a virus CHECK and cleaned out any spyware that may have been lingering but could not solve the problem. I'm fine in safe mode but not fine in regular mode. Any ideas folks? Video card issue? I thought that was the problem, but I can run video in Safe mode, and it seems to be equal resolution.
Also, can music be played in safe mode? - because I can't seem to get mp3 files to work...is it just that they're disabled or may my audio have been fried as well?
Thanks so much.
http://www.pcguide.com/care/care/gen/envHumidity-c.htmlGood to know, Com.  I was brain dead when I exposed my PC to such extreme humidity. I should have known better. However, do you have any idea what my specific issue is? The article talks about the dangers of humidity, but acts more as a post-error enlightenment than aid. I FIGURE there was a short of some sort - read: smell of burning plastic - however, what part of the PC needs help?
Thanks again! Quote

...smell of burning plastic - however, what part of the PC needs help?...

I currently have a 120GB XIMETA USB External Hard Disk, on which I store important files that I don't want to lose on my computer's default hard disk. Yesterday, I go to access my external hard disk, and suddenly I'm asked if I want to format the disk, which I know I don't. I have tried just about everything. Please help?!Have you tried accessing this drive from another computer?  

At this point I must get on my SOAPBOX....
[soapbox on]
External drives (USB, Floppy, etc.) are significantly less reliable than internal drives.  I can't count how many times I have had to try to rescue someone's DATA from an external disk, drive, etc.  In my opinion external drives should be used as backup devices not primary storage devices.  If it is used as a primary storage DEVICE then it needs to be backed up just like internal drives do.
[/soapbox off]

Sorry for the mini rant, but it really surprises me how many times I have seen a situation similar to this......

That's ok if you want to rant, I can understand. I'll be sure to take your advice into account. However, what can I do about this problem now? I don't have a GOOD computer that I could try to connect it to right now, and a friend of mine suggested recovering the data with a Linux Live disk, which I know nothing about.If it were me, I would find another computer to TEST it out on before I did anything directly to the drive or files.

I would want to know if it was a problem with the drive or my computer first.......

What OS were you using to write files to this drive?  What was the format of the drive (NTFS, FAT, FAT32, etc.)?
Have you tried taking the drive out of the external case and hooking it up as a slave inside the case?

I try to open any program USING the mouse on my desktop, nothing HAPPEN.  My keyboard is not working either.  I did try different keyboard and the result still the same.  Any suggestions.Which operating SYSTEM are you using? Do you have virus protection? Give me some more INFORMATION here...

[GLB]Flame[/glb]

Ok, this may seem like a software problem...  But at this point I'm leaning towards believing that it's a hardware problem...  SORRY if I'm wrong =[

Anyways...  My FATHER works as a professional videographer...  He recently got a new editing program from Japan, Canopus EDIUS Pro.  WELL, installation went smoothly, and the program was running smoothly.

All the files he was using were stored on the external HDD (Because it has 200GB...  The other HDDs are each about 80).  Then we needed to remove the HDD for a while in order to connect another device.  When we plugged the HDD back in, the files were still there, but could not be loaded.

Well, we figured it was just a bug, and he started over with the editing.  Well, it was night, so he shut down his comp before he went to sleep.  He woke up, turned the computer back on, and then the files could not be openned again...  Problem? Yes.  Solution? No idea.

Ok, so we tried calling Canopus Japan's support hotline, but they won't pickup...  We really need help (Because it involved my dad's job)...

Here are the specs:
CPU - 2.8GHz P4
RAM - 1.5GB Kingston DDR3200
IDE - 1x DVD-ROM, 1x DVD-RW, 2x Internal HDD
DEVICES - USB 6-in-1 Memory reader, 200GB HDD, printer
OS - WXP ProCan anybody help?Do you get an error message when trying to load?

[glb]Flame[/glb]I know that its this way for USB, but don't you have to stop the process' for it before you physically remove it from the system? Did you do this or just disconnect it?Thanks for the replies!  Well, as for error messages...  This was a while back, and I haven't touched my father's computer every since, but I believe it just said that it can't open or something (Well, that's about the closest translation I can think of at the moment)

And yes, I realize that I have to stop the process before physically removing the DRIVE.  Unfortunately, the first TIME around, I failed to do that.  But the second time it happened....  I just shut down the computer (Which automatically shuts down the process, I believe), and then when I turned it back on, the files were no longer accessible...For me I install the application on the External Hard Drive and when I save things it will all be located on that external Hard Drive, the thing is Did u reciently add a new device? If you plug something in a diffrent USB port. (Same device) except in a new USB port It can throw things totally out of preportion especially applications

Just got my unit back from the shop. New ASROCK K7S41GX motherboard c/w AMD 2.4Gb chip, 250Mb RAM, rage 128 pro video card, Maxtor 13.? Gb primary and a few other et cetera's.
Problem: Installed another Maxtor (91366U4) 15 Gb HDD from my old SYSTEM which was ASUS p2-99 MB c/w Intel Celeron processor. The new system insists this drive is a removeable media type and won't let me read from or write to it. I have changed the jumpers, checked the ribbon cables and tried old ones, checked the power, changed the settings in setup, booted, rebooted, slapped and kicked it, tried prayer too but only got laughter.
I went to the Maxtor site and downloaded their 'Maxblast' system check program but when I tell it to create a boot disc it says I don't have a formatted floppy in the drive.
All of the above I have tried several times in different COMBINATIONS to no avail. I should also mention that when I try a system scan or try to get system information with the 15Gig hooked up, the computer freezes. Obviously due to trying to interact with the drive.
Any suggestions - aside from dynamite?
Thanks
jimI would advise finding wether it is a probalem with the MOBO or the HD then replacing the component. What happens when the HD is plugged into a different p.c and when a different HD is plugged into the MOBO?The HDD was with the old MB and was my d: drive and worked fine. I screwed up the BIOS when I flashed it. The %$#&%*** thing froze half way through. Transferred HDD to new MB after getting it back.
The shop said that AMD won't read Intel coding(?) so I would have to FORMAT and start fresh. Unfortunately, my address book and other necessary documents are on this drive and I don't want to lose them.
Quote

What happens when the HD is plugged into a different p.c?

when a different HD is plugged into the MOBO?

When i connect my hard disk as master it is not getting detected & SHOWS that some error in the disk.

  When i make it slave in other coms hard disk gets detected but u can't see any drives in it , that mean su cn't access it .

  How to overcome this problem now........get the hds tools from the maker and run the test in dosmaybe a bad hd ?can you see it in the bios? or is it just WINDOWS not seeing it?Is it a new HDD cause maybe your HDD is simply EMPTY thats why that no drive is set yet. Run Fdisk in dos mode to make a primary partition then format it. If it contain error try running Scandisk. If your USING the same cable to connect your HDD and your CD-ROM or DVD-ROM make sure that the HDD is master and the CD-ROM is cable select.Hey are you having the same problem as me with certain Hard Drives? When you put in a new Hard Drive it detects it in DOs but when it actually load... Hey where did it go?

The ones I have for some reason are difficult to reformat and fdisk. scandisk is USELESS if you can't Fdisk it.  Well if you are aving a problem with the Hard Drive like mine. Try re erasing the Hard Drive or make it a secondary Master to format it.

I have a Samsung CDRW/DVD SM-308B.  I am trying to format some new CDs in it and each one fails with the following message:
Format failed due to general failure.
I am using IBM DLA
The CDs are 700MB High Speec CD-RW from TDK
Any ideas on why this is failing?MAYBE the drivers need to be updated... Try running a Windows Update by going to http://www.microsoft.com ... When you click on Windows Update, click on Custom Installation... Install any and all hardware updates that you find...

[glb]Flame[/glb]What software do you use to format?I have GONE through and checked for any updates and installed one for BIOS.  No change when I try to format a CD.  I am using IBM DLA to format.Anyone at all with any other thoughts on this problem?  I've tried EVERYTHING I can think of at this point short of taking it into a repair center.Are you SUR eyou are using a CD-RW disk Yes I am sure.  I would be very happy to discover the problem is due to my making a mistake LIKE that but that isn't it.What program do you use to reformat? Do you right click on the CD drive and hit format?

Did you try and see if the program you use to write the CD can erase the CD also?It's called DLA and I have a version supplied by IBM with the computer.  Yes, I do a right click and then select format.  The CDs are new so there's nothing on them to erase.

Everytime I start my gateway computer, it begins to start up windows 2000, but than I get the blue screen of death saying " Stop Inaccessable_Boot_device.

It than tell my to uninstall any new HD or HD controllers, which I have not added any.

I KNOW that the JUMPER is set properly and I have tried this HD on a friends computer and it boots up just fine.

I recently had some problem with my OS, so I fdisked and reformatted the drive and installed windows 2000 using a friends computer only because I kept GETTING this message when I tried to reinstall  OS with HD  in my current machine.

Again, the HD works fine in the other computer, but when I put it back in MINE, I always get this message. I went into the BIOS setting and EVERYTHING appears to be fine.

Please help, Thank's

JeffInstall OS while HD is in Gateway computer, not some other computer.Maybe you'll need to reinstall the OS in your gateway PC. Cause maybe there is sumthing wrong in the kernel that can't reconize your hardware. :)I have done what was suggested and now my computer works fine.

Thank you for all your assistance.

Jeff hasbrouck

Will an ATX PSU (Power Supply Unit) connect to a Micro ATX or Baby ATX?

The reason I am asking this is that I cannot find any PSU that gives out at least 300 WATTS for the Micro or Baby.

The ATX PSU is 88MM (or was it 80?) and according to the size it will fit in a Micro/Baby ATX case. But will the cable that goes to the motherboard fit?Michael Lavieri..... What are the dimensions of your current psu ? Is your current mobo configuration MATX ?
What is your concern , will the psu connector fit the MOBO or will the psu fit in your existing case ?

let us KNOW

dl65  



The dimensions of my current PSU is:

150mm X 90mm X 90mm
Length X Width  X Height

(approximate measurements)

My mobo is MATX.
My case is MATX.

My CONCERNS are:
Will an ATX PSU fit in my case?
Will an ATX PSU power connector connect to my MATX mobo?

Thanks  I found only ONE PSU. And that is a:
Diablo / PSDA320 / 320-Watt / MATX / 80mm FAN
Which costs 25.99 at Tigerdirect.

However the above questions still remain.Michael Lavieri...Does your Mobo have a 20 pin power connector on it ?
Are you sure about those dimensions you gave ...........
Are you sure its not ...... 150 long x 140 wide x 85 high
****the one you mentioned above is ......150x140x85 ***
let us know

dl65  
My mobo has a 20 pin power connector on it.
My PSU has a 20 pin slot connector.

No I am not sure on my measurements.

Measuring from the back of the PSU. Where the power cord connects:

The fan is 80mm.
The top and bottom is 150mm
The sides are 90mm.
Measuring from corner to corner is 170mm.

Confused about measurements sometimes.

Hope this helps.Michael Lavieri....If thats the case ...a atx psu will fit .
So you should have lots to choose from .

dl65  Ok thanks now I will have a wider variety to choose from.

I had to restore my computer and my cd has completely disappeared from the screen when I call up MY Computer. When I go into the DEVICE manager I get an! with a yellow circle around it which I know is not good. I have uninstalled the device but it keeps coming back with the ERROR. The CD works (opens & closes) but it is like it is not part of the computer. Can anyone help me get my CD back working? I know I had to do something to get it operating in XP a while ago but I can't remember what.

Thanks in advance

ExactormanFirst, make sure that you are connected to the internet... Second, go to the device manager, and right-click on that drive for me... Click on Update Drivers... Windows will now try to fix the problem... This might take a minute or two depending on your computer and its connection...

[glb]Flame[/glb]Hello friend, how are you? First of all disconnect the CD Drive from the motherboard and then turn your PC ON. When your PC started up completely, do shut it down. Now re connect the CD Drive and then turn your PC ON. This time it will automatically load your CD Drive.
If not then try to interchane the place of connection of your CD Drive and Hard Drive. But do this only if above method is not working. WITH CARE...
Do take care of you and others.
DeWThanks but it didn't work. I'm still whackin AWAY. I think it has something to to with a Roxio DRIVER for XP.

Thanks,

E'manDoes you CD light is always on?? If so try to put your ATAPI cable in the other side

I have a Toshiba Satellite 2410-303 laptop , 1.7ghz , 30gb hdd ,, with Nvidea 32mb graphics and 512mb system memory.

i WANT my games to run smoother ....

i REALISE i cannot upgrade the graphics CARD , but what if i upgraded the system memory to 1024mb ?

would this make any real  :-/DIFFERENCE to my laptop PERFORMANCE ..........or should i just buy an updated spec laptop with higher memory dedicated graphics?

its the difference between £100 on memory or £500 for a new machine i suppose.......

any help anyone....?  :-/ Quote

...what if i upgraded the system memory to 1024mb ?  would this make any real difference to my laptop performance ...

My keyboard, it has keys that when you press on it , it writes letters that are not what they're asigned to be.

I.e. : Ezxa;mplseA:

original -> changed

s - ls      a - a;      : - A:

p----> takes me to a choice of opening outlook express or internet explorer

l - ls        x - zx      z - zx
. - ./       ? - .>?       tab - tab + q    q- tab

(but not all of the keys, just IMHO the commonly used ones are wrong)

What's wrong with my keyboard? I seriously need HELP with it.  

I don't think it's a software issue (I tried something sony sent me to cure this keyboard and it didn't work out), I think one of the keys are stuck and they need to be separated by taking the keyboard apart. Is that a possiblity or not?

Thank you again.

Btw, my keyboard is attached to my COMPUTER and it's difficult to get a new one or more truer  irreplacable.Keyboard attached to computer as in...  You're using a laptop?  Well, I suppose it's possible to just remove all the keys from the keyboard, clean it up, and put it back together...  I don't know if this'll work though, cause I've only tried taking TWO keys out of my keyboard =Pif its under warrenty .........take it back......have you done anything to it......like dropped it..?it could be that it has been setup differently with the windows xp setup. i know that the " on an amercain keyboard is where the is. Try checking your language settings?I don't think it's a language setup problem. I think the keyls are stuck maybe?or connected wrong.

I didn't drop it either though, it's a desktop, it's too heavy to carry and of course if I did drop it , it WOULD be broken by now. And the warrenty is expired.

BTw, I have a Sony Vaio W series that is a desktop that looks like a laptop but isn't.

Computer:PCVW500GN1
Operating System: Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition

Is it possible that your keyboard settings in the control panel is set to Dvorak type placement? Dvorak is completely different from the qwerty placement.
Good luck
jim

Good day, I'm hoping that someone here will be able to help me out...

I have Sony DRU-510A DVD-R drive within a tower running WinXp. The Bios recognizes the drive... WinXP recognizes the drive...
The issue is that the orange light is constantly blinking. There is no disc in tray for it to READ (the tray is currently OPEN). How this problem came to be was I was doing a DVD copy when it errored out and I had to manually eject the disc. Ever since then the drive won't allow me to reset it.

I'm going nuts over here trying to figure out how to fix this problem...
I've uninstalled the driver and rebooted my system thinking it WOULD reset the rom drive...
I've disconnected the cables from the rom drive and reconnected them thinking it would reset the rom drive...
I am at my WITS end here...
I have gone into Explorer and right-click ejected the E: drive (the drive the dvd-r is installed) without any sort of reaction from the device...

Hints? Tips? Suggestions? Anything... please...

Many thanks in advance...If tray is jammed open, it's broken.  Push it closed.  If it still doesn't work, it DEAD.

I have a SCSI disk and I would like to connect a new HDD as ADDITIONAL space.
I want the pc to boot from the SCSI and have HDD only as additional.  
However, the minute I connect the new HDD, BIOS does not recognize SCSI.
I’ve made some tests, CHANGING the data at BIOS… but no luck there!
What can I do??? Can u help pls??!!!!!

Is the new drive SCSI or EIDE ?Hi!
PROBLEM solved!
I made some experiments and i FIXED it!!
(Don't ask me how!!!!!   )

I just migrated a 6800 Ultra OC to a completely new MOBO and XP installation. I don't seem to have any problems with 3D, but whenever I play video files I GET HORIZONTAL chop, it's really bad. The only thing I could have imagined doing wrong to this card was using it with a 380 watt PSU (which was what it was on before migrating it to my 500 watt PSU, the minimum being 480) but it was never USED for heavy graphics processing, only web browsing and such. Does this mean my card is "fried" somehow or what? o.o Please help meh, $500 down the drain is not very good. ;-;*tries desperately to keep post alive* o.o;

I need to replace my keyboard and am considering going wireless.  What are the drawbacks to using a wireless keyboard?  If your computer acts up does the keyboard still WORK I wonder?Yep the keyboard still works.  I love my wireless keyboards (yes that is plural) and MICE.

You just need to be aware that if there are more than one system with wireless keyboards or mice within a small distance from each other you may get some interference.

Also if you purchase the really cheap ones be prepared to replace the batteries often.  I've had my MICROSOFT Wireless Elite keyboard and MOUSE for over a year and haven't had to replace the batteries in the keyboard yet, in the mouse I have replaced them once.Actually, if you spend the extra $10 , then you can just buy a rechargable mouse.... I know that my wireless keyboard runs on 3 AA batteries... It's been there for two years... Never replaced....

[glb]Flame[/glb]

My drive can read a CD-ROM, it can play an audio CD, but it will not write.  Problem may be related to a previous problem.
A month ago..My CD-ROM drives were not being recognized.  Yea...they worked before, also wrote, but at that time windows was not recognizing them. They would show up at bootup and in the BIOS settings, I've tried reinstalling them, unplugging and replugging in the IDE cables, running a virus scan...
they still showed up with a ! in a triangle in the Hardware Manager.
I then solved the problem with an edit in the bios.  when the aparent problem was solved, I never bothered to check if they would write to a BLANK cd.
The solution was:
"START > RUN (type in: REGEDIT) click OK
click '+' BESIDE HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE
click '+' beside SYSTEM
click '+' beside CONTROLSET00# (<-- see EX1 below)
click '+' beside CONTROL
click '+' beside CLASS
click on {4D36E965-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}
on the righthand window, you may see, UpperFilters & Lowerfilters
right click on them and delete them.  (I only had lowerfilters)

(EX1) for above CONTROLSET00#
You may have one controlset folder number 001.
You could have many. Follow the above steps for each one.
REBOOT. Should be no more conflicts now cd-rom wise ANYHOW"

any body got any ideas where to look?

What are you using to burn CDs?  "Windows software."  I am using windows software.
I KNOW the drives work because I exchanged harddrives
with the same operating system (XP homE) and both drives work fine

farbeWindows software as in the software that XP has built-in? Or software that is COMPATIBLE with XP? Be specific...

[GLB]Flame[/glb]? cdrw

I have a 1 year old win XP computer, 4 usb's in rear, 2 in the front. all used to work. 2 weeks ago, the 2 front stopped working, or at least thats when I noticed they weren't working, the 4 rear still worked.  Today, 2 of the rear have quit, 2 still worked. I cannot think of anything that has changed, I have run adaware and spybot looking for trouble, found nothing. No yellow marks in Device manager either.  Any clues? thanks, Jim WestDid you try updating your DRIVERS?I am having a problem with my USB also.  I have 7 USB 2.0 ports installed in the rear of my PC.  I am running a AMD 2800, 512 MB of ram, Windows XP Pro.  Well anyways, on ONE USB card the usb's dont seem to be providing enough power.  MY other USB card works sometimes as a USB 2.0 but most of the time they only work as USB 1.1.  I have gone through my bios and CHECK if anything funny was there.  I also have ran Ad-Aware and Spybot and my virus checker.  I have disassembled my whole PC and reassembled it.  Cleaned it.  Done about everything I know how to do.  Anyone have any suggestions on what is going on with my USB ports.  Could it be that I have too many things running on my power Supply.  I have 6 case fans...two hard drives, 2 DVD-RW's, and a whole bunch of lights and STUFF like that.

Hello everyone? How are all you? I have a problem. I recently install Windows2000.
Everything is going fine but from this morning, I feel a little problem.
When I select any ICON, LETS say any drive in "My Computer", it wait for about 4 - 5 seconds then
highlight the icon. ONE of my friend also has the same problem with windows98. Is it any hardware problem, I mean, related to hard disk.
Any IDEA!!???
I have windows 2000, 256MB RAM, 1.2GHz Processor.
Do take care of you and others and be happy.
I shall be very thankfull to you.
DeWHow much RAM do you have installed? Also, have you SCANNED for spyware?

[glb]Flame[/glb]

I just got a new hard drive and noticed the tech made it NTFS.  I have another hard drive divided into 3 drives ABD it's FAT32.  Is it ok to leave it that way?   I'm using XP home and my NTFS drive is 40GB and the other is 80.

Is using NTFS any better performance wise or not?  I didn't do too MUCH research on it because I was planning to keep using FAT.

Thanks You DECIDE after reading this:
http://www.ntfs.com/ntfs_vs_fat.htmWow! Nice find... Now I FEEL dumb for choosing Fat32. lol

[glb]Flame[/glb]I use FAT32 for all.

I have an old Compaq Presario 9232 that we are trying to install OS.  I cannot enter the BIOS screen.  There is no ref to ket to enter.  Have tried all possibilities.  HOLD INS KEY down and receive two beeps, then F1 Boot comes up.  F1 and F10 will continue the boot but no other key will get me into BIOS.  HELP PLEASE??try contiusly tapping DelThat's a very old Cpmpaq, PI-120
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?dlc=en&tool=softwareCategory&lc=en&product=94887&cc=us&docname=c00012669

There is no key to enter BIOS, if hard drive has been wiped CLEAN or replaced.  I had a couple like those.  It's doing exactly the same as mine did.Tapped del, ins esc, f1,f2,f9,f10....just about every key.  The hard drive has been wiped clean, anyway around this? Quote

...hard drive has been wiped clean, anyway around this?

I have an Elements 603TCFR mobo with a Celeron 370 processor. I changed the case so all components were removed and reinstalled. to clear the old password, I followed the exact instructions in the manual by unpowering,  removing the battery for 10 min then  relocating the clear BIOS jumber. When I put the jumper BACK to "normal" and powered up, nothing happened. I reset all CPU frequency jumpers to default, nothing happened. I disconnected all hardware except keyboard, mouse and monitor, no change. HOWEVER, if I keep the clear bios jumper in the "clear bios" position, the processor fan comes on and stays on without further action. No POST, no beeps, no video, no error...nothing...just the processor fan GOING. The bios is Award Bios with 2MBit FLASH ROM. Can you help please.Dr Wahab...please help. I am stuck..do I scrab the mobo or there is hope?That is a old school system board.  You might want to let it go and get another one...  Drewdown...this is Africa where a PII is gold. Have a heart.copy which  files you need  to floppy disk>http://www.elements-pc.com/support/support.html

is it possible to hook up a Playstation 2 to a flat screen MONITOR that does not already have RCA ports?
is there an adapter to be bought?yes. GO to a specialist computer store or buy one on the LEFT. just google it.

Good For Gaming?

1.2 GHz Coppermine Celeron (It Sucks...But Oh Well)
1GB PC133 168-Pin SDRAM
80GB Hard Drive
MSI Radeon 5500 (I Think!) 256 DDRRAM Video Card
10/100 Ethernet Card
Dial-Up Modem
24-Bit Live! SoundBlaster
2 USB Ports
Floppy Drive
CD-RW  Drive
Regular CD Drive

I'm PLANNING on buying this computer; is it good for gaming?Jacko_the_Wacko......Well unless the price is really cheap , I would be considering something else. If you into gaming ...then this isnt the one you want .


dl65  This computer seems ok to me, but I would consider DSL or CABLE instead of Dial-up... You will REGRET having Dial-up... Also, it depends on what kind of gaming you are playing... However, for most games, this one seems fine to me...

[glb]Flame[/glb]Good for Solitaire & MINESWEEPER but it would not run games like Doom 3 or FarCry.
It does depend on the games.Well, the RAM, HDD, and Gfx all seem good....  Just that the CPU speed =\  1.2GHz is really weak for modern computers...  Heck, you can probably get a 2GHz desktop off of Dell for like, $500!  Lol...  But then again, modern computers are incompatible with SDRAM, in which case you'd have to buy 1GB of DDRRAM (UGH....  Approx. $100?)..

I just upgraded from a 2.7 celeron to a 3.o p4  800 fsb 1 mb l2 cache I have been plauged with random crashes I have done it all vpu bios mobo, bio upgrade tried every driver known to man and I think this whole time it was the heat I was only crashing in game with the celeron this never happened I thought it was just a driver issue but after what i been through i will be very surprised if it is drivers my p4 at idle speed is about 48 -52 * c when i am in game I have noticed it to go over 70*c they say max temp for a p4 is 75* c but that seems awful hot can these TEMPS cause  random crashes I just ordered a spark 7 thermolake cpu cooler w/ 6500 rpm fan and a copper heatsink I hope this with a good coat of silver paste artic fox? will fix my crashes my question is ,  is the heat issue probably the reason for these crashes/
I have troublesot from every other angle covering all my bases i am at my wits end if this isnt the problem? :-/Have you tried the game sites for patches / fixes?
Is it one game in particular?
You could take off the computer cover just to see if that makes a difference?
Is directX up to date?Just had the same EXPERIENCE. Three things needed to be done. First make sure your power supply is large enough. I upgraded mine to 350W. Second; add a larger case fan as the heat monitor covers more than the processor area. third; adjust the default setting on the monitor temperature. before you do that check if the processor is actually getting hot. sometimes the sensors are faulty. a 75C temp is too hot to touch. if you can touch the processor heat sink and do not FEEL the burn, then it is not 75C and the sensor is faulty. mine was. I run all kinds of games now without an alarm coming off.You said you went through the same thing? did you also upgrade to a P4? I am currently running my pc with the side off and a window fan up against it my system temp is about 22*c I can almost keep ice cream in it now   and it runs fine not a single crash when i do that, while in game I turned it off and 20 min later crash city so other than LOOKING really tacky and sounding like i am landing a chinhook helecopter in my room it has fixed my problem. but I cant leave it like this and i dont have $300 to invest in a water cooler but i did order a spark 7 from new egg check it out
http://www2.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=0-N82E16835106032

I hope this will take care of the cpu core temp, but i am starting to think that the case temp is crucial also I have 2 case fan 1. 3200 rpm - in  and 1. 3200 rpm out and the cpu fan i have coming runs up tp 6800 rpm (I think thats close if not right) but i think I will add 2 more fans 1 in 1 out to try and give me the wind tunnel;) effect.
I have a 4000 watt ps so i dont thing that is an issue although with any more fans it might be.  lol did yours have random crashes also? I am 43 yrs old and more serious than a 14 yr old kid when it comes to gaming I game online with 3 diffrent clans on teams that compete in leagues and these old men like my self take gaming to heart and when your team is counting on you for a win, a crash can be a disaster So I must fix this! thank you very much for your help and if anything else comes to mind let me know
thx
[email protected]Haha, yup, I had the same problem as you too...  Heat problem indeed.  Well, my case really sucks =P  Fortunately enough, though, it was a case that had a window on the side, so I just took off the window....  That increased the air circulation, and I've been crash-free ever since =]going over 70* is too high. i would advice sticking some more fans in. Not taking the side of your computer and it will only increase the dust inside your computer whcih can clog up heat sinks increasing the problem aswell as grinding your p.c to a hault.

If all else fails buy a nice new coolmaster case with 10 fans as standard. if your p.c still has problems then it definatly isn't heatI upgraded to a P4 3.2G with intel mobo that has a monitor software that keeps beeping when the temp gets hotter and worns me before a crash happens. so I did not get too many crashes. Yesterday I added anothe PCI card and that increased the case temp and GOT a zone 2  alarm (not the CPU). when I opened the case the heatsink over the main chip was hot to the touch. when I took the PCI card out it did not get hot. So I added a fan mounted to the heatsink and put the PCI card back. So far so good. Intel Mobo and P4 are known to run hot. there are a lot of info at Intel site on that.my case is pretty good about temp it stays right around 30*c - 34*c , that is decent isn't it? but i think I will still add to more fans in the back of the case 1 in  1out I have 1 going out on the side and 1 going in on the top and yes it is very important to take the heat sink out and clean every so often even though i use compressed air to clean my pc often I had my celeron over heat once because my heatsink was packed full of dust allowing no air what so ever learned that the hard way  :-/

My co-worker has a gateway Performance 1400 computer with 128mb of lovely RDRAM (two 64mb modules) and c-rimms taking up the empty memory expansion SLOTS.  He wants to upgrade to 256mb of ram.  Can he buy two more 64mb modules and replace the c-rimms with those, thus having a matched set of 4 64mb modules...or should he take out the two 64s and replace them with two 128mb modules...or does it matter?

gateway's customer support sucks, to put it mildly...they won;t give out any "do it yourself" support INFO, even if they do know the answer, which 9/10 times they do not.
Any help sincerely appreciated.

Can't find any information on Gateway's website without knowing the Serial Number.  No listing for Performance 1400.  Crucial has a listing, but since it has RDAM, it refers you to this:  http://www.crucial.com/kb/

It appears you're stuck with RDAM.  
charliebrown.....This info is from the tiger direct site .......
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/Category/category_memory.asp


Must be installed in pairs!

BRAND  SPEED  SIZE  PRICE
 Premium 800MHz PC800 Continuity RIMM $3.99    
 Premium 800MHz PC800 128MB $51.99    
 US Modular 800MHz PC800 128MB $54.99    
 US Modular 800MHz PC800 128MB $56.99    
 Corsair 800MHz PC800 128MB $64.99    
 K-Byte 800MHz PC800 256MB $104.99    
 Corsair 800MHz PC800 256MB $124.99    
 US Modular 800MHz PC800 512MB $244.99    

hope this helps .

dl65  
 
Thanks to both of you!  YES, we're stuck but at least have a source for more ram for him...my advice was to get 128 more to see him through until he can junk the Gateway and get something less proprietary and "exotic".   I thought Compaq was bad until I started going through his MANUAL and got on Gateway's support page...the worst mess I've ever seen as far as being able to upgrade and get simple information.  I have a Compaq 5070 that I use strictly for my Line 6 amp programming and occasionally with a Roland digital recorder and had to jump through a few hoops to configure stuff, but NOTHING as bad as Gateway.  Gateway gave my buddy ZERO help identifying his memory needs, except to tell him the modules he needed were "no longer available" or being supported.

I really hate talking smack about companies, but I'm developing an intolerance for businesses that set out to lock you in to their little domains and set you up so you have no recourse but to DEAL with them...and then discontinue support for a product, smile and shrug their shoulders.  I love and value good customer support...the bad ones get my rath and never get my $ again.


Another valuable lesson learned!

Many thanks!!! Quote

...I thought Compaq was bad until I started going through his manual and got on Gateway's support page...

I purchased the Microsoft Wireless MultiMedia Keyborad 1.0A and the Microsoft Wireless Optical Mouse package 12/03, and absolutely love the freedom it gives me.  Lately however, the keyboard does not respond properly when I DEPRESS the keys.  I must constantly move the keyboard to a different location (for instance, on my lap) to get the keys to work.  I put in fresh Duracell Coppertop AA batteries, but the results did not change.  Both the mouse and keyboard sit on top of my desk, with the mouse to the right of the keyboard.  The tramsmitter, which connects to the computer via USB wire, sits under the desk.  The mouse works fine.  This setup has not changed since 12/03.  Since I do a considerable amount of input via the keyboard, this is a major inconvenience.  Could the keyboard itself be the problem?  Any suggestions for resolving this problem?

OS is WinXP Home with Service PACK 2, PIII 1.2G, 512mb, 80G & 20G HD.Are you sure that the software needed for the keyboard is installed and compatible?

[glb]Flame[/glb]YES - the CURRENT Driver Version is 2.20.447.0 Dated 3/21/02.  This is the latest driver that I can find for the keyboard.  The Keyboard functioned fine until just recently.Try moving the transmitter/receiver on top of the desk and resetting it with the connect button on the transmitter.

I use several wireless setups at various places and they all can get a bit flaky at times.  If you have moved another wireless setup somewhere near it the you may get interference from that.  If you have added another electrical device on or near your desk it could interfer.  I have even seen the signal degrade by filling up the paper click tray in the drawer just above the transmitter.

My hard drive (160Gb) is being ACCESSED all the time even though I have 512MB memory, I am running XP Pro. Can anyone tell me how to eleviate the constant noise from the hard drive TRY turning off Indexing service (and any other services that you don't need). Indexing service is a resource hog, disc intensive, and about as useful as *CENSORED* on a BOAR hog.

G'day all.

I'm running XP Professional with SP2.

I've three hard-drives all dynamic, with XP's RAID 0 set up spanning some of the volumes on all three discs.

XP itself is on a single basic volume on the C drive.

Question.  If I do a fresh install of XP over the existing system will it automatically pick up the dynamic volumes and the RAID 0 arrangements, or will all the volumes on the three DISKS be 'lost' and need recreating - with all data on them lost too?

Thanks.Falstaf,

This sounds dangerous;

During a new installation of Windows XP Professional, Setup displays a list of all disks and volumes installed in the computer. However, Setup does not differentiate between basic and dynamic disks, nor does it differentiate between installable and non-installable dynamic volumes. Therefore, before you begin, decide which volume you plan to install Windows XP Professional on, and then ensure that the volume is installable.

If you choose a dynamic volume that is not installable, Setup displays a message that the partition is unrecognized and that you cannot install Windows XP Professional on it.

When deleting volumes during Setup, especially if the computer contains dynamic disks. Deleting a single dynamic volume during Setup deletes all volumes on the disk and converts the disk to basic. As a result, all data on the disk is lost.

If you want to delete a dynamic volume without causing all other dynamic volumes on the disk to become inaccessible, wait for Setup to complete, and then use the Disk Management snap-in to delete the volume.

If you try to delete a dynamic volume during Setup, you are WARNED about this issue before any data is destroyed. You can then choose to continue with the deletion, which deletes all volumes and their data, or cancel the deletion.
You better make sure you have a backup of all your data before you begin, you have been warned!! :-/G'day Cigarman.

Thanks for that.

A fresh install is not something I'd undertake lightly and I do back-up to another machine, but even this can fail.

A minor but irritating problem has surfaced with XP, tho', which I can't solve and I don't see any solution but to re-install and hope the fault is corrected.

Would a repair install be any safer, in that this is not supposed to change any settings?  Including XP's software raid settings?

ThanksOK, I assume you will have an ASR made, but what excatly is the irritating problem to prompt you to take a drastic action?  Could a system restore to an earlier date not solve the issue?  Or maybe we could help if you provide us the info.

G'day Cigarman.

I posted the problem on the Windows OS forum under the heading "Windows toolbar freeze-up".   I'll give process explorer a try, but I'm getting to levels that are too technical for me, and poking about there can make matters worse if you don't know what you're doing.

Whats  ASR?

Thanks, FalstaffOK,

I'll look at the other post from  you, meantime ASR automatic system recovery disk.

Read your post about hte tool bar freeze up, one thing strikes me is that reinstalling win xp might not solve anything if the problem is caused by a program installed to your WXP, with or with your knowledge, I also assume that your system is clean as you have no virus or trojan type bugs.

Reinstalling Win XP will only repair the original XP settings, any settings added by third party programs will remain and therefore your problem will remain.

On the other hand a fresh install is totally different, as this will wipe everything leaving you with XP from scratch,

If you still want to reinstall, you can, Windows XP retain their partition entries in the partition table. The only dynamic volumes listed in the partition table are the following:

The system volume and boot volume of the operating system (Win XP Pro or Win 2000) that you used to convert the disk to dynamic. The system volume and boot volume must be simple volumes.
Any basic volume that was PRESENT on the disk when you used Win2000 to convert the disk from basic to dynamic.
Simple volumes on which you run the DiskPart command retain. The retain command adds a partition entry to the partition table so that you can install Win XP Pro on the simple volume.
Because these dynamic volumes retain their partition entries, you can install Windows XP Professional on them.
You better have a full backup - just in case.
G'day Cigarman,

Thanks for that.

OK, but if the volume information on the dynamic discs survives a clean installation of XP Pro into the same simple volume as my current version does this mean that XP will also pick up the software RAID 0 settings, which involved striping across three disks for some volumes?Software raid is always a problem compare to hardware raid.
I must admit that I have never tried reinstalling XP on software raid, but I can't be sure that the raid will remain intacked after the reinstall.  

I will suggest that you test the reinstallation on a spare PC with raid setup as this is how any organisation will do before final deployment.

I will be interested on your outcome if you do decide to take this route, appreciate your feedback.

G'day Cigarman.

I've been thinking about switching to hardware raid, but when I've looked at what's available I've never been confident that I could buy the right bit.  Not really beginners stuff, this.

My motherboard is a PX845 PEV Pro with the Intel 82845PE Northbridge and Intel 82801DBV SOUTHBRIDGE.  The drives are IDE.

Switching to hardware RAID would presumably involve cancelling the software RAID first, and I've no idea how one 'undoes' that.  So I'd probably take the opportunity to do a fresh install anyway just to tidy things up.
You could try running the system file checker to repair any damaged sytsem FILES:

at command prompt type in: sfc /scannowFalstaff,

You are better with hardware raid, they are much faster.  Good luck.

G'day.

Thanks Ash.  I tried scannow but it kept telling me that my installation disk was the wrong one.  It wasn't, but I think the problem is that SP2 has changed some of the core files so of course they no longer correspond with the ones on my XP installation disk.  Seems to be a problem with scannow?

Thanks Cigarman.

I've looked for hardware raid for my machine, but all the ones available in New Zealand seem to be for SATA, or at most have only two IDE connectors and I need three min.

Still, perhaps when the next boat comes in.....

Regards,

I have been working with computers for over 10 years but right now I have the MOST bizarre problem.   I can't figure it out and I would welcome anyone's (creative) input.

I have 10 NEC Powermate Eco PCs.  If you are not familiar with these they use a Transmeta Crusoe TM5800 processor.  I have had them about a year and they have worked perfectly up to today.  They are all in the same room at my office.  I went in and turned them all on.  Three fired up as normal but 7 refused to boot.  The power light CAME on and the HDD light flashed for about 15 seconds and then went off.  There was nothing on the screen and no activity after the first 10 or 15 seconds.  I thought it was BIZARRE and highly improbable that all 7 would fail on the same DAY so my thoughts went to power.  

Now here is the bizarre part:  If I carry one of these machines to a different room in the building it boots up normally.  When I carry it back into the room it has lived in for a year IT BOOTS NORMALLY!!!  I had to do this for all 7 machines!  Carry them out, plug them in and boot them elsewhere, carry them back and they boot fine.

Is this WEIRD or what????  I checked the all the power supplies for these boxes that wouldn't boot and they are all putting out 18.5 VDC as they should. . . in both rooms. . . ??? I am going crazy to figure this out. . . help!It sounds like a building power problem to me too.
Possibly an intermittant wiring connection or COMPONENT breaking down as the extra load is applied.
I'd be getting that checked first before looking at the computers.gnott.....Sounds like it's time to call in the ghost busters LOL.......

I agree it probably has to do with some odd surge or LOW voltage condition at the time you powered up the 10 pc's... Are all 10 pc's on the same circuit ? or are 7 on one circuit and the other 3 unaffected ones on a differant one ?

Let us know

dl65

I'm fighting an intermittant PROBLEM with BOOT going to a blank screen.
I suspect a problem with the mouse because the problem clears when I reboot without the mouse, but stays gone when I reboot with mouse connected.
Blank screen HAPPENS in sequence after display of mouse initialized, but before reporting hard drive (and well before starting operating system load). Clearing blank screen by CTRL-ALT-DEL doesn't work, but system reset does do RESTART which ends back up at blank screen.

Questions are - Is it reasonable to think a bad mouse could result in blank screen, and
any ideas on verifying problem is in mouse?

"Intermittant" in this case is 3 fails in about 50 starts, making it hard to pin down.Followup is never could get the problem to stay around LONG enough to find the cause. Concensus is that mouse probably was not it.

hi all,
Im having problem with my MONITOR.When i SWITCH on my COMPUTER my monitor is showin a message  MONITOR_DPMS_NOSIGNAL.Pls HELP me.what might be the problem with my sys.

Bye.Make SURE both ends of the cable between your monitor & your computer are securely plugged in.

Hello,
Im in search for a ANSWER to my scanner problem.  My hp 4300c is not working with my windows 98se...it is not even listed in the "add hardware" option.  Now Ive been up and down the internet about problmes with this scanner, mostly everyone posts that its USB problems. I was able to use this scanner BACK in January. I have disabled my other USB devices (memory stick, printer and camera) software...and still no hope.  I also have read that that scanner and XP do not work because one is 32 bit and ones 64 bit....but what about it previously working on the 98se machine and not now?
AAARRGGGHHHH.... ;-)
THANKS for your help.

I just started having this problem this morning. I have the latest drivers for my network card. Everytime I turn on my computer it says Local AREA Network: "Limited or no Connection found". It says this even when I unplug the computer from the router and plug directly into the cable box. I get internet access on my other computer so I'm sure its the network card on this one but I don't KNOW what's WRONG with it.Try this
http://www.cexx.org/lspfix.htm

It fixes a bad winsock stack after some spyware products have been removed.  Even if you haven't done that LATELY this won't hurt to run, it just sets things to how they are supposed to be.

OS is WIN XP sp2
Intel 2.6 Gb
512 Mb DDR

Video dard has 256Mb of Ram
Card allows TV out

Video display on LCD computer monitor is rock solid.

Had sytem set up to feed TV out through to DVD recorder and output of recorder to secondary monitor.  All worked well.

Needed recorder in another room to replace DVD player so I removed it and fed the TV out directly to a new monitor through the video in jacks.

Video display on LCD computer monitor is still rock solid.  Problem is with the feed to the TV/monitor.  TV monitor is quite new and gives an excellent PICTURE.  When I change the input to the monitor over to the TV out from the computer the monitor develops a vertcal roll SIMILAR to what TVs had many many years ago.

If I feed a picture in from a digital CAMERA at the same point it is good.  If I feed an input in from a video camera the picture is good.

This to me excludes any problem with the TV/monitor and points squarely to the computer.  Although the setup worked correctly before I tried DIFFERENT  resolutions without success.

I have been using 1024 x 768 true color 60 hz for the monitor and 800 x 600 true color 60 hz for the TV.

My thoughts are video card or power supply.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Hi, I have a big problem I despretly NEED help with!

First

specs:
1.3 GHz AMD Duron
Radeon 9250se 128mb ddr
384 mb ddr ram
SiS 7018 audio DRIVER
ECS EliteGroup K7SEM mobo
Maxtor 6E040L0 38.2 GB harddrive

When I play games, pretty big ONES, usually
my computer locks up and freezes nothign moves, keyboard dont work mouse dont work, and a loud humming sound comes out of the speakers. And once my moniter restarted and said out of frequency (moniter connected to vid card) then another time the game shut off and said ur VPU is reset(has to do with resetting vid card driver) but usually the game just locks up.. Any idea on the problemes? not enough ram? moniter probleme with hertz or something? drivers conflicting? any idea's??Which OPERATING system? Also, does your computer meet or beat the requirements that the game needs?

[glb]Flame[/glb]stupid me, windows XP PRO, and the requirements are

256MB RAM
800Mhz
34mb vid card or better

and I got that error agian while playing, here is the full message,  

"VPU recover has reset your graphics accelerator as it was no longer responding to graphics driver commands"what is you refresh rate set to?check graphics card.....reseat it...its at 200hertz but im pretty sure it can only go to 85hertz, and how do i reseat my vid card?

And I found out what the out of frequency error is, its my graphic card trying to make a bigger res and refresh rate then my moniter is set to, maybe thats causing the problem, how wud i fix that?

WHAT DO I DO?? :-/Buy a new keyboard?disconect the ps2 plug.......from the main pc......unscrew the keyboard.......and RELEASE or take away caps lock button.......and use you FINGER to operate it.You could REASSIGN the caps lock to another key, which is MUCH cooler than unplugging and taking apart the keyboard. There are programs out there that will do this for you.Are you SURE you CAPS LOCK is BROKEN and it is not just one of the shift keys stuck?

Recently I dismantled my laptop to fix the power socket on the back. Having done a good job on that I assembled it only to find that it would not boot up and the only thing that does happens is the orange power L.E.D. at the front flashes.
I have read some information from Toshiba Technical Service & Support which states, and I quote :

"Toshiba Europe has identified that some notebooks manuafactured in January and February 2000 may have a fault that could prevent the notebook from starting up. This fault has been reported on some Celeron(TM) processor based Satellite 4090 systems operating at 400 MHz as well as Pentium(r) II processor based Satellite 4100 and Tecra 8000, operating at 400 MHz only.

Affected notebooks can no longer be started and the DC-IN LED at the front of the notebook blinks. Intel and Toshiba have developed the solution to this issue that has been implemented in manufacturing (Intel revised up the MODULE to REV 505) and any affected notebooks can be repaired relatively easily."

End of quote.

If anyone can tell me what this repair solution is I would be very happy !!!

Thanks
You eliminated the most important part of the quote:

"Notebooks with the potential to show the no boot issue would be in a serial number range starting with “10” or “20”. The serial number can be found on the silver product ID label on the base of the unit.

Please contact your local Toshiba Service Partner for more Information"recharge battery properly........now does it show a green led..what caused you to under take this ......repair.I have tried fully charging the battery but still no luck.
Also when the MAINS adapter is plugged in and the battery is fully CHARGED both LED's are green. As soon as I try to boot up the mains power LED starts flashing amber.

The fault is exactly as desrcibed by Toshiba Technical Service & Support. I should like to know what the modification was that must have been sent to all repair centres. Whether it works for me or not I still want to know.

Why did I UNDERTAKE this repair ?  Because it's there, like Everest.

The pitch on my computer has suddenly started going up and down. Rather LIKE an old-fashioned 78. I presume it is related to my sound CARD. The problem occurs both with Winamp and with WINDOWS Media Player. It hasn't done this before and I am flummoxed. TIA for any ideas. [email protected]have you worked out that it is the sound card? this isn't HARD if you havn't

just change the speakers and see if you still have the problem then use the original speakers in someone elses sound system or through a mic

Is the pitch issue only with winamp and widows media player? what about other programs playing sound. is it all?

to test this Just use the windows sound recording tool and  record something then play it back.

how frequent are the pitch changes?

i am running me and the system locks up and stays that way for about 5-10 min then RELEASES and 5 min later does it againn any ideas :-/More information please... How much RAM do you have? Have you scanned for viruses and Spyware? Have you made any changes to your system lately?

[glb]Flame[/glb]i have 200 megahertz and i have 80 gigabytes of ram
no new add ons and os is me but THERES something about the pnp it says windows 95   :-/   not sure what that is LOOKING to see if there is some way to change utilities to speed things up and stop this LAG that only seems to be getting worseAre you running winme oer win95........run scandisk at the dos promt......or the  defrag cmd

hello people

quick question.  i am installing my first hdd and i am trying to avoid any problems with losing my computer virginity.  i have a 20g hdd (FAT32).  i am adding a 80g WD hdd (i got it for $29, couldn't pass it up).  anyhow, my question is, if i use ntfs on the NEW drive, can i still transfer files to it from my fat32 hdd?

i don't know much about FAT32 or NTFS.That depends on your Operating System.im running xp pro, sp1.  will this be a problem?

thanks for the reply!Won't be a problem, XP can read both file system types.  There is even a conversion utility if you want to convert your FAT32 into NTFS.hey gussery,

thanks! Quote

im running xp pro, sp1....

hello people

my computer SEEMED to run slow after new mobo installation so i ran everest home and saw that my amd1200(fsb266) was running at 900.  wanted to get it back up to stock speed so i WENT to bios and raised the frequency to from 100 to 133.  (multiplier 9 is locked i believe)  so 9x133 sounds good.  also raised fsb to 133 and jumpered the mobo to 133.  everything is stable and running faster.  Just wanted to know if I did everything OK.  I never had to mess with these settings before so just checking.

thanksYou did it perfectly!  Before you were "underclocked", which is not a problem.  You are now running where it is designed to run.  BTW, the memory runs at the FSB speed, if it's DDR memory, it's 266.thanks C_C

yes its ddr.  256/266 and added 512/333 (i know it will run at 266 but it was cheaper than 266).  Good to know reading the FORUMS is paying off!  thanks again!

...I want to get my computer's processor out...

hi, im a photographer who's just gettin in to the digital SIDE of things. Some times when i print photos i dont get the exact colours that i see on the screen, and the most extreme cases are usually black and white photo's that have a sepia tint they come out with a bluey green tint! If anyone knows how i can solve this or why this is happening i would be really greatful.
Thankyou leeWell.... What kind of printer is this? Does it have color? If so, try taking the color cartridge out... Also, is this a laser printer, inkjet, etc?

[glb]Flame[/glb]What kind of computer MONITOR are you using. is it... LCD, CRT..... Because my brothers computer is normal at times but sometimes turns a green tint and you cannot notice it until you printing something up and it is not what you wanted or you are next to another computer screen,? Or are you on a lcd, because sometimes either the CLEANING solution you use can change the pigment of your screen if you do not use the correct stuff. Or if you are not looking straight at the screen sometimes things appear in dif color. it might look normal but try moving up and down. LIKE on my hotmail account the highlighted part of new mail i cannot c if i am not straight on.. with my screen and i intend to look down on it...Ive tried using two inkjets at the the moment, they have colour and b&w but I still get the same sort of results. I've herd its sumthing to do with the way the printer see's it in RGB, CMYK and Greyscale mode but wanna get them to see them same thing. Im on an imac most of the time, one of the old G3 ones, dunno wot monitor this one has.Ahh, Sorrry I dont know MACS!Post this in the Apple Forum.  Macs USED to have a color matching setting, so what you see on the monitor is what you get on the printer.