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I was going through some folders full of songs that are stored on my external hard drive, and I noticed more than half of the files that were in a FOLDER are missing. Gone, nowhere to be found... I mean, I looked everywhere, I did the search, unplugged the external and plugged it back in thinking that would make a difference... I checked the recycle BIN... nothing.

What the *censored* could have happened? I KNOW no one deleted them, and there's no way I could have ACCIDENTALLY deleted them. They didn't get accidentally moved to another folder because I did the search and nothing came up. These files are GONE.

Somebody please tell me what the *censored* could have happened.

Thanks guys.Just a thought...Enable hidden files on that drive. Maybe they got hidden for some reason.
Also does sum of all visible files equal to used disk space?

Because hard drives have become so inexpensive, a great form of backup is to use an older PC workstation.  It's COMPLETELY separate from your primary computer and in the EVENT your primary computer suffers a problem, you at least have a spare computer to use.  And most of them can house at least 3 hard drives, which makes a formidable data backup system.

Transferring data between the computers is easy to do if they are networked, but if you keep the spare computer completely separate then USB file transfer is the next most convenient means of moving your data.  If your old PC has USB 1.0 ports, the speed is rather SLOW.  If you install a USB 2.0 PCI card, your USB transfer speeds will increase by about 8 times.  Not bad!  These upgrades are very cheap to get now.  I purchased one with ports also provided in a 3.5" front panel and with IEEE-1397 ports included, for just $25 at MWave.com.  It's a great way to increase the usability of your old PC.

Okay, I have a Western Digital 120Gb IDE hard drive, I'm going to make this as detailed as I can!!

Yesterday as I was loading my game of FIFA when the hard drive started MAKING a clicking noise and spinning up, then clicked and spinned, and again, about three times in about 10 seconds. This was while the game was loading up from windows to the first screen. It was very strange but it stopped so I continued playing. During online play it did the same thing again, about three times, and everytime it clicked the gameplay chopped and continued, the third time it took longer to continue gameplay and I thought it was about to disconnect from the online game. I finished the game and restarted the game to see what would happen and now it started clicking more frequently, so I listened to my computer and heard it coming from the hard drive.

So after struggling with it for a bit I performed the chkdsk on windows and it found 4 errors. Then I performed the scandisk on windows startup, and the fourth step took forever like hours. It doesn't usually take that long for me. It has now stopped clicking and I was able to back up some of my files, which I tried to do before but would manually stop it due to excessive clicking. I havn't tried playing any games because of the fear that it will continue.

Now my computer seems to be a bit slower when loading things. And this is very noticable when music or sounds play because they come out choppy.

Also I have recenlty added 2gb of memory to my previous 512 gb of memory, so i have 2.5 gb. I have also upgraded my cpu from 2.6 gigs hyper thread, to 3.4 gigs hyper thread. I had to force the heatsink on really hard because it wouldn't lock into place.

So is my problem just the hard drive or can my new configuration have anything to do with it?? Do I have to replace my hard drive??
Have you tried Western Digital 'Data Lifeguard DIAGNOSTIC' ?

---->GoHereI just ran it, and I don't see how this program really helps me... Quote from: redthorn on October 18, 2007, 07:42:52 PM

I just ran it, and I don't see how this program really helps me...

...on any machine.  Is there any way possible to retrieve the data?Did you try it on ANOTHER computer?Have you tried manufacturer's help, faq, support because USUALLY they would know what to do. I have a flash drive and it either works or it doesn't I can't even predict.another computer I never thought about that!??? 

yes broni, i tried MANY computers.  It's not my drive, but a girl I know...I TOLD her the same thing, contact her manufacturer...You MIGHT try formatting it.  Of course, any files on it will be erased.

We are using a switchbox and a DOS program to print between a Citizen-190 and a HP LaserJet 3800. When printing to the Citizen out is received and printed like normal. When switching the BOX to the LaserJet and then printing the data light will flash, then stay solid with a Data Received message on the LCD screen. The printer will sit that way until you press the green check mark button. After pressing the button, it will print only one line of the document with a few extra ascii characters and nothing else.

This is about the time that I arrive on the scene. I just came back from troubleshooting the issue. I switched to the other printer and tried a test print, which WORKED correctly, then switched back to the LaserJet it printed correctly. I COULD also print from Word.

I was wondering if there was an easier way to clear the issue and what even causes it in the first place?

(p.s. I KNOW its not the cables, printers, software, or switch box. So I will have to observe the user and post back any updates after lunch.)

If you had a choice between the 2 graphics cards below which one would you choose:
1GB AMD Radeon HD 7450
1GB DDR3 NVIDIA GeForce GT520NVIDIA,
Because.  Thanks for your reply!!!!Radeon,

Because. . .



Link: http://videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.htmlThanks!!!!
Can someone tell me if this would be a good computer build?:
Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium [64-bit]
AMD FX-6100 six-core processor [3.3GHz, 6MB L2/8MB L3 Cache]
8GB DDR3-1333MHz SDRAM [2 DIMMS]
1TB 7200 RPM SATA hard drive
500GB 7200 rpm SATA hard drive
1GB AMD HD 7450 1GB [HDMI, DVI, VGA adapter]
460W Power supply
SuperMulti DVD Burner
Integrated Ethernet port, No wireless LAN
15-in-1 MEMORY card reader, 4 USB 2.0 (front), audio, 2 USB (top rear-facing)
Beats Audio (tm) -- integrated studio quality sound

Looks pretty good. Do you have a link to your video card choice because I can't find it on newegg.com?

Some things I would change:

1. Get a PSU of at least 600W

2. Save some money on the CPU. Get the four core FX-4100. You probably think more cores the better, but not when apps aren't build to support that many cores most of the time (even games). Unless you like rendering video while playing games (or something like that)Thanks for the info! This was a computer build at the HP site. It said AMD and didn't have the Radeon in front of it like all the other graphics card in the selection.
I was chatting with someone at the HP website and they said the following regarding the graphics card:
The two graphics card differ in the clarity or resolutions of the game. Of course, the AMD Radeon has a better application or resolution compared to an AMD HD graphics card only.
In regards to the CPU for the build at HP I'm only given the following choices:
AMD FX-6100 six-core processor [3.3GHz, 6MB L2/8MB L3 Cache]
AMD FX-8100 eight-core processor [2.8GHz, 8MB L2/8MB L3 Cache]
AMD FX-8120 eight-core processor [3.1GHz, 8MB L2/8MB L3 Cache]
AMD FX-8150 eight-core processor [3.6GHz, 8MB L2/8MB L3 Cache] Quote from: grog1961 on February 21, 2012, 10:16:12 PM

Thanks!!!!
Can someone tell me if this would be a good computer build?:
Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium [64-bit]
AMD FX-6100 six-core processor [3.3GHz, 6MB L2/8MB L3 Cache]
8GB DDR3-1333MHz SDRAM [2 DIMMs]
1TB 7200 rpm SATA hard drive
500GB 7200 rpm SATA hard drive
1GB AMD HD 7450 1GB [HDMI, DVI, VGA adapter]
460W Power supply
SuperMulti DVD Burner
Integrated Ethernet port, No wireless LAN
15-in-1 memory card reader, 4 USB 2.0 (front), audio, 2 USB (top rear-facing)
Beats Audio (tm) -- integrated studio quality sound

No. Because if you have to ask, the answer sis no. This set of parts is non the curing edge and you can get lour finger cut, metaphorically speaking.
Start out with something more conservative and a set that has been already toted by other home brew doers.

In regards to the CPU for the build at HP I'm only given the following choices:

I hope I can get a few more replies to help me out.

Having issues with my tower. Everything worked fine yesterday & nothing today. Try to turn it on no noise nothing but a green light on board. We just replaced power supply 3 days ago, HELP i need my puter for work & schoolWhy did you replace the PSU and what PSU is it? I would check that the new PSU is not faulty, take it back to the store and have them check it, or try it in another computer. Also, a word of warning, never ever take a PSU apart because it holds an electrical CURRENT even when it is switched off.replaced it b/c it wasn't working i would be on doing m thing & all of a sudden computer would turn off without warning it has been working great since i replaced it until now Quote from: Leetonsmommy on February 17, 2012, 07:54:07 AM

replaced it b/c it wasn't working i would be on doing m thing & all of a sudden computer would turn off without warning it has been working great since i replaced it until now

Why did you replace the PSU and what PSU is it? I would check that the new PSU is not faulty, take it back to the store and have them check it, or try it in another computer. Also, a word of warning, never ever take a PSU apart because it holds an electrical current even when it is switched off.

but pulling things apart is the best way to learn first hand how they work.
i do it all the time and have no issues

If you can afford the hospital bills, go straight ahead. You were advised this for a reason.

and your point?
i know what im doing!
some people just wont accept people doing things that they have no license to do!
this is y the world is becoming to pc!
1 day u will need to be supervised wipeing ya rear end!

and your point?
i know what im doing!

Also, a word of warning, never ever take a PSU apart because it holds an electrical current even when it is switched off.

Salon Trout, It would be interesting to know why you think it's not true? I myself believe it to be true because I have been taught that many electrical devices can hold an electrical charge for weeks after they are switched off, including power supply units.

We've all HEARD it at least once. "Dude, don't open up that power supply, the capacitors will shock you and you'll die! You have to unplug it, flip its switch twenty times, leave it out overnight, then you can open it up; but don't forget to wear rubber gloves and to say the special shock-warding chant!"

It's a tiresome myth, perpetuated by CRT repair technicians and overzealous nervous ninnies. While capacitor safety is very important, when it comes to consumer power supplies life is a lot simpler than what this myth would lead you to believe.

[...]

a capacitor can store a charge for a period of time after the circuit itself is no longer charged. While diodes, transistors, and resistors become inert instantaneously or within nanoseconds of voltage difference being lost, the capacitors in consumer electronics can hold onto charge for up to whole seconds.

Whole seconds. Consider a moment, The primary capacitors of even the most powerful ATX power supply, 1200W and up, would drain to safe levels (voltage too low to overcome your body's natural resistance) in less than two or three seconds when fully charged, even if left entirely alone, due to residual draw in the circuit. With lower wattage PSUs the discharge is much quicker; under 500W, a tenth of a second is not unlikely. The charge held by electrolytic and polymer capacitors in PSUs is not that extreme, and the natural resistance in these circuits is low. The capacitors discharge quickly and present little danger of shocking unless you're mucking around with the PSU while it's on (in which case you have more problems than just lax capacitor safety).

I've tried it with a Delta Basiq. Primary cap held a meaningful charge for all of 10 seconds, after that it was down to a couple volts. Gotta love bleeder resistors.

Even with no bleeder resistor the caps discharge themselves quickly.

Moving the paging file off your main drive will allow it to be ACCESSED faster in situations in which your primary hard drive is busy. When users ADD hard DRIVES to their computers, these new hard drives are typically faster than the hard drives that the computers came with because of ADVANCES in technology over time. Moving your paging file to the faster hard drive will also help performance.

I have a DELL XPS that I got in 2003.  The specs:
-Intel 875P chipset
-Windows XP Professional
-250 GB hard drive
-2GB DDR RAM
-ATI Radeon 8500 AGP graphics card

So here is the problem.  The graphics card stopped working.  My moniter does not get signal.  It is not the moniter/cable, because they work fine on a different computer.  So I bought a new graphics card, an ATI Radeon 9600 AGP.  However, I cannot uninstall the old drivers because I have no moniter.  When I put the new card in without uninstalling the old DRIVER, it works enough for the DELL/Windows XP logo to show, but then the moniter goes black again instead of taking me to the login screen.  I TRIED starting it in safe mode, but it too stops when it gets to AGP400.sys.  What is the work around for this?

It has nothing to do with the drivers. The new card should get you to Windows.
There has to be another problem. What error message do you get before it shuts off?

And isn't the Dell "XPS" line composed only of Laptop computers?No the XPS line is laptop and desktop. Anyways, that config doesn't really match up an radeon 8500 and 2GB of RAM? But still, does any error screen show up or does it just reboot. If you want to play games I think you should replace your card anyways. Download memtest or ubuntu feisty live cd(it has memtest on there as well as a fully functional OS, besides you might just fall in love with the RELIABILITY and cool effects[beryl].) Test your RAM, check your cooling, reseat everything while being careful of ESD. Try booting into ubuntu in case it's just your installation. Frankly, I see way to many issues on windows and hardly any on linux because it's real easy to fix, granted you know how to use it. Now that I'm done ranting, go try that.Maybe I wasn't very clear - I can't to anything on my computer right now - because after the windows logo goes away nothing else happens.  No error message, the screen just goes blank.  As far as trying to start it in safe mode, when it is starting and it shows the addresses of all the files it is looking at, it stopps on AGP440.sys (not AGP400.sys - I was mistaken).  This makes me think that the problem still has to do with either the driver or the card.Ahh but a Ubuntu live CD doesn't need windows to boot (I too use Ubuntu I have the stickers on all my External Hardware ;D) and doesn't require any config to boot the live disk with your setup. If this boots fine I think your drivers my be corrupted. Try booting in VGA mode which should use the generic drivers. Won't look pretty at all but will let you uninstall/Reinstall the drivers again, but make sure you download A new set and do you use a Anti-Virus program? If not there is a good chance your drivers are infected.

KurtisUbuntu does boot fine.  I am runing memtest right now.  However, my computer will not boot in VGA mode.  Any ideas?I made 2 passes with memtest, and no errors were found.  I do use an anti virus program, that is always updated - AVG.  If the driver is corrupt, how do I get rid of it and install the new one without being able to start Windows in any mode?  I have tried safe mode and VGA mode and neither works.Ok, perhaps the hard drive contains errors? Do you have a XP disk handy?
Simply boot from the XP disk and let the setup LOAD past the initial stages to the firt screen you need to push something to continue, and press R. Let the console load and login to your administrator account (password will be blank if one has not been made) and type CHKDSK /P and let that run all the way through. Report back after this Ok, so I had to try this twice.  The first time after the Windows setup loaded all the files and it said "Setup is Starting Windows" I got the following error message:

OP: c0000221 Unknown Hard Error
SystemRoot\system32\ntdll.dll

The second time I tried it worked perfectly fine and allowed me to run ChkDsk.  Here is the report:

ChkDsk found one or more errors on the volume
195270072 kilobytes total disk space
137657200 kilobytes are available

4096 bytes in each allocation unit
48817518 total allocation units on disk
34414300 allocation units available on disk

I am guessing you only needed to see that ChkDsk did find one or more errors, but I decided to err on the side of too much information.OK. Does it still not boot after this?

If its not working after that a repair of windows may be needed,
Although, do you have any other Graphics Cards you could test it with?
Correct me if I am wrong but an error in ntdll.dll could be a Hard disk failure of some kind? (Ubuntu would have booted because it doesn't use the HDD in any way) Did the "ChkDsk found one or more errors on the volume" display more than once? ive seen it up to 4 times in one severe scan.It doesn't boot after this.  I have tested it with another card, and it doesn't work.  "ChkDsk found one or more errors on the volume" only displayed once.  If I repair Windows will I loose files? Quote from: iemsparticus on October 01, 2007, 11:23:34 PM

If I repair Windows will I loose files?

Quote from: iemsparticus on October 01, 2007, 11:23:34 PM

If I repair Windows will I loose files?

No, repairing OS is just repair the WINDOWS folder so everything would be fine. All your data are intact after you repair the System.

Quote from: iemsparticus on October 01, 2007, 11:23:34 PM

If I repair Windows will I loose files?

No, repairing OS is just repair the WINDOWS folder so everything would be fine. All your data are intact after you repair the System.

The subject nearly completely identifies the subject.  I have a dual drive g73s with WINDOWS 7 one the first drive.  I added a second drive on which I wish to install windows xp pro.  All I have is the reinstallation disk which I purchased with my xps 1710 laptop in 2005.  I have found another use for the xps 1710, it now has been UPGRADED (?) to windows 7 and is in use under my control elsewise.  When I attempt to install the xp pro on the second hard drive (in the first drive position or in the second position) all I get is a blue SCREEN suggesting I look for a virus (the second drive is formatted and clean).  I wonder if I purchase a second unused installation disk with a new key, etc, genuine (we hope) if that would make any difference.  I am really perplexed with this problem.  I have in times past been able to install from this installation cd in a barebone desktop assembly, without any problem for the first 30 days. 

Anyone have any ideas?  I really want to be able to use xp on this new computer.

Wendell

[email protected]


email addy removed to prevent SPAM.If you use an OEM Windows disk to install Windows on other computers WGA will prompt you to activate...
Quote from: aa4wp on February 21, 2012, 11:12:01 PM

When I attempt to install the xp pro on the second hard drive (in the first drive position or in the second position) all I get is a blue screen suggesting I look for a virus (the second drive is formatted and clean).

I'm WORKING on a computer with a rather SMALL hard DRIVE. I would like to replace it with a larger hard drive, with an OS on it, but it was working as a slave before. Will it still have the OS data, and can it become a master drive again?WELCOME to the CH forums.

The Slave drive can become the Master if you reset the JUMPER correctly and replug it to the end of the multi-core cable (assuming ATA).   However the OS on the drive should have been created on the hardware on which the OS is to run.

Good luck

I have a OCZ Powerstream 520w PSU- The other day I noticed a sound emanating from my computer which was turned off. so I popped the side panel off and located the sound which was deffinitly comming from the PSU. it sounds LIKE a camera flash RECHARGING over and over. Then I notice that the mobo power light was blinking along with the sound. so I conclude the PSU is not providing constant power. So I checked to see if there was any dust in the PSU while the power was on but computer off by spraying dust off (I know, not smart) there was no dust but the noise stopped and the light went constant as soon as I stopped spraying the problem returned. Any Ideas. What do you recommend Thanks AaronHow old is the unit cause it sounds like it's failing ? ?
If i'm noy mistaken their warranty is 3 years...Still under warranty. hopefully they are decent to deal with as far as an rma.They should be FINE...don't let them talk you into the repair option...
SOMEONE told me they no longer manufacture their own units anymore.

I recently submitted a request for a BIOS upgrade. It took two weeks for them to search for one, and then they tell me they have found one for "Only $29.95!" Is it really justifiable to pay 30 bucks for an upgrade to something I really cant USE anyways. I mean, I cant EVEN overclock with my motherboard. Has anyone else found a noticable reason to upgrade? Or does anyone know if there's a possibility that by upgrading, i'll be ABLE to utilize my BIOS the way i want to. (other than reading temps and volts)

Windows Vista Home Premium 32bit
Intel D945GCL MoBo
250 GB HDD
Pentium D 2.8GHz/2.8GHzI have never heard of someone having to pay for a BIOS  update...  are you kidding or just  dumb ?hey dude, here's an idea. DONT REPLY IF YOU DONT HAVE ANYTHING USEFUL TO SAY!

People come here for help. Not criticism. Quote

are you kidding or just  dumb ?

Hello everyone,

I'm happy to find this forum. I have a general question.

I have recently downloaded some video clips (ending in .avi or wvm onto my hard DRIVE. I would like to burn these to dvd so I can watch them on my television. I have Windows XP and a CD drive but no burner. I know so little about the process. Can I download a program that will allow me to do this or is my only option to purchase an external dvd burner from the computer store? If so..can you recommend a suitable one for my needs? I get all confused when I talk to the salespeople!!

Thanks for any help you can provide!!

CameliaYou have to have a burner (external, or internal, it doesn't matter)
Your best bet is to buy DVD burner. It'll burn CDs, and DVDs. Any SOLID brand will do. Let's put it this way. If you see a burner, and you know that brand name, buy it.
Then, you'll need burning software. There are some free ones out there, but if you want something more pro, get either Nero, or Roxio.ok..I will get a burner first..btw..I would imagine that the external burner would be much SIMPLER for me to install rather than the internal which necessitates opening up the hard drive? As for the software PACKAGES..thank you for those suggestions..have you heard of Sonic? SOmeone mentioned that she used it happily and which would the free ones be?

Thank you very very much for shedding some light on this. I appreciate it!

Camelia Quote

I would imagine that the external burner would be much simpler for me to install rather than the internal

I have a realy WIERD mouse problem, when i push down a button on my keyboard my mouse freezes. This mostly happens whan i play games and as SOON as i RELEASE the button the mouse starts working.

 I have a optical usb mouse and a ps/2 keyboard and im RUNNING xp SP2.

My computer was shutting down or constantly saying it had just recovered from a serious error.  It was also running slowly.   I decided to just save everything and go through the HP recovery that is automaticly in the computer (by pressing f10).   It did all the formatting but then when it was putting stuff back on it had an error.  I got all the way to the little computerized guy talking to me but then it had an error and kept telling me windows was not setup.  So I tried to recover it again but it still wouldnt complete it.   So I decided to buy the 8 recovery discs from HP.  Through the whole process it kept shutting down or giving me a blue screen (always with a different error number) but I managed to make it through almost all the discs but on the last one it STARTED giving me a blue screen or freezing up and would not complete.   I can only get it to start in dos mode using an old Win 98 boot floppy (I have no way of making a boot floppy of XP because I dont have another computer with a floppy drive).   I am able to put in the recover cd and it will open in the HP recovery but I cant do anything because it either freezes or gets a blue screen.  I have no windows anymore because of the formatting.  I just want to reinstall but cant.

Two things going on here..one, I get these shutdowns unless it is just sitting there in DOS(then it stays on forever).

The other is that I cant get anything back on (primarily because of the shutdowns).

I dont know what all info you need.  I dont have much clue about what I'm looking at.  Here is some stuff I found in the Bios:

CPU type  AMD Athlon xp2200+
CPU speed  1800mhz/266mhz
CPU Cache RAM 256k
Installed Memory 256MB/PC2100
Memory Bank 1 256MB/ddr
CPU FAn Speed 1814-1854 rpm
CPU temp  48' C

It has Windows XP and is an HP Pavilion 554e
If there is something else you need to know please tell me where to find the info.

I appreciate any help you may be able to give.      Time to start hardware error diagnostics.

Run ram diagnostic program Memtest86 from http://www.memtest86.com/  (select the cd iso image & burn it to cd).

Run hard drive diagnostic program from your hdd manufacturer's site.

Good luckok..I ran both the memtest and WESTERN Digital's hard drive diagnostic.  Both said no errors.

I then erased the hard drive (it was already erased from a previous recovery attempt anyway) and then tried my hp system recovery discs again.  Same problem..I get a blue screen in the middle of transferring files.  It is NEVER the same numbers but this one happens to be:

***STOP: 0x00000050 (0xCB94AE24,0x00000001,0x8041FFAE,0x0000000)

Any suggestions ?

thank you Give this a read and see if it is of any use:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/329293I read it but I dont think it is the same error (the numbers in parentheses are different).  Plus I dont have any windows on my computer...just dos.  I have been trying to get windows back on but I get various blue screens with different error numbers.    The solution they suggest for the problem on the page you gave me cant be done because there is no windows to use to do it.

If I could just stop getting these shutdowns or blue screens I'd be able to get through the hp recovery discs and complete the installation..grrr

This is really weird situation, but from all you described, it really looks like some hardware problem.
I assume your CD drive worked OK, before all this happened.
I would open computer case, and play a little with IDE cables. Maybe disconnect/re-connect them.Wait a second here!

Where did you get DOS from? Your hard drive is reformatted right?

XP uses virtual DOS.  Not DOS

Where are you getting DOS from?  What version? Probably 5 if XP SP2.

Just type VER at prompt.

The HP stuff must be on a protected drive or it would be gone too.

Chances are, that HP is the problem! Their system stuff just plain sucks.
What exactly does it say on this CD you are using ? ?OK..well, I dont know much about this stuff.  It probably IS the virtual Dos then.  What I mean is that I dont have windows.  In fact after the hard drive erased I just had a blinking dash..not even a prompt.  Then I put in the HP recovery disc and so now when it starts it goes into hp system recovery screen (even when there is no disc in there) and asks me for disc one but then gets a blue screen or freezes.  The only way I can get any kind of prompt is to use an old win 98 boot disc.   There is apparently something now in my drive but not much..just the beginning of the install from the disc.  

So anyway..have no idea if it is real dos or virtual.  Also, I had SP1.

Cant help it being HP..it is what it is, lol.  It did have a recovery drive..that is probably where the HP logo and such is coming from for the recovery when the disc is not in.  You can hit F10 to access it as well (though it isnt any different than from the CD ).

And yes, the CD drive worked before and it still works when I put the non-windows stuff in.The disc SAYS :

System Recovery
Windows XP Home Edition disc 1 ( there are

This cd contains a backiup copy of all sofware originally installed and can only be used with an HP Pavilion home PC.  that was supposd to be a number 8 and then a parentheses but these new programs just want to take over and make everything have a smiley face on it! lol

Well..hopefully someone will have a clue what I can do with this computer! Did you try to open your computer case, and see if IDE cables are seated well?Try This...
Put the HP recovery CD in
Boot to the Win98 floppy...
At the A: prompt type D: and hit Enter...(assuming D: is your CD drive)
At the D: prompt type setup and hit Enter...
The recovery process should now run...
Let us know.You may want to read this and follow the guides provided
by the manufacturer.

GoHereBroni-
Yes, the cables SEEM to be in firmly.

Street1-

That link you gave from HP is what I've been trying to do over and over.  The problem is that the computer either freezes or gives me a blue screen error in the middle of doing the recovery.  So even though the hard drive has been formatted it has not had the stuff put back on because the recovery has not been able to complete.

Patio-
Tried that at the prompt..but it says bad command.  There is no file named setup ..just other stuff like I386, Preload etc etc.   But even so, I have no problem getting the HP recovery to start as I mentioned above to Street1.

I just purchased a Lenovo T61p. I would like to know if it is possible to set the "FN" key so that it can be used to activate the number pad keys.

On my old laptop (a Dell Inspiron 700m), pressing and holding the "fn" key would activate the number pad. For example, if I pressed and held "fn", then pressed the "u" key, I would type a "4". The instant I let go of the "fn" key, the "u" key returns to normal.

On the Lenovo T61p, the only way (that I can find) to activate the number pad keys is to turn on NumLock. For me, this is a slow and cumbersome PROCESS (it requires pressing "fn" + ScrollLock, or Shift + ScrollLock). It is a hassle to toggle NumLock on and off quickly.

Is there a way I can set the T61p so that the "fn" key can activate the number pad keys, as I have described above?

I have tried various third-party keyboard remapping programs, but NOTHING has worked so far. From what I've gathered, the "fn" key is special and is not treated the same way as other keys are. However, I'm holding out hope because unlike many people, I am not trying to remap the "fn" key (i.e., to swap it with CTRL). Rather, I simply wish to extend the use of the "fn" key, if you will.

Any help or insight you can provide would be appreciated. Thanks! Quote

the only way.....to activate the number pad keys is to turn on NumLock

Quote

the only way.....to activate the number pad keys is to turn on NumLock

Doesn't your computer start with NumLock on?

I still don't understand...
Your NumLock key doesn't work, or what? It's just one key to press in order to activate/deactivate numeric pad.

I can only ask one more time:
Your NumLock key doesn't work, or what?

Maybe it's me, but I don't understand how pressing TWO keys is faster, then pressing ONE.
Maybe, I'm tired, that's all

On the Lenovo t61p, there IS NO dedicated NumLock key

Quote

On the Lenovo t61p, there IS NO dedicated NumLock key

Here we go....LOL

my hardware info is

Code: [Select]Intel(R) Processor Identification Utility
Version: 3.6.20070606
Time Stamp: 2007/10/15 10:18:23
Number of processors in system: 1
Current processor: #1
Cores per processor: 1
Processor Name: Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 650   3.40GHz
Type: 0
Family: F
Model: 4
Stepping: A
Revision: 4
L1 Trace Cache: 12 Kµops
L1 Data Cache: 16 KB
L2 Cache: 2 MB
Packaging: LGA775
Platform Compatibility Guide: 04A
EIST: Yes
MMX(TM): Yes
SIMD: Yes
SIMD2: Yes
SIMD3: Yes
Enhanced Halt State: Yes
Execute Disable Bit: Yes
Hyper-Threading Technology: Yes
Intel(R) Extended Memory 64 Technology: Yes
Intel(R) Virtualization Technology: No
Expected Processor Frequency: 3.40 GHz
Reported Processor Frequency: 3.40 GHz
Expected System Bus Frequency: 800 MHz
Reported System Bus Frequency: 800 MHz
*************************************************************



CPUID 1.4 - copyright (c) Arne Vidstrom
          - http://vidstrom.net/otools/cpuid/

Genuine string                   : GenuineIntel
Version                          : Family 15 Model 4 Stepping 10
Processor type                   : Original OEM Processor
Cache line SIZE                  : 64 bytes
Logical processors per package   : 2
Initial APIC ID                  : 1
SSE3                             : Available
VMX (Virtual Machine Extensions) : Not available
Enhanced Intel SpeedStep         : Available
Thermal Monitor 2                : Not available
Page Size Extension (PSE)        : Available
RDTSC                            : Available
Model Specific Registers         : Available
Physical Address Extension (PAE) : Available
APIC On-Chip                     : Available
SYSENTER and SYSEXIT             : Available
PTE Global Bit                   : Available
Page Attribute Table (PAT)       : Available
Processor serial number          : Not available
SSE                              : Available
SSE2                             : Available
HyperThreading and/or multicore  : Available
Thermal monitor                  : Available
Cores per package                : 1
EM64T                            : Available
Execute Disable Bit              : Available
SVM (Secure Virtual Machine)     : Not available
Brand string                     : Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 3.40GHz
Physical address bits            : 36
Virtual address bits             : 48



i do not understand this stuff what does it.........................
1)shall i move to windows 64 EDITION?
2)do i have dual core?
3)what is ur review about my system?"Cores per processor: 1
Processor Name: Intel(R) Pentium(R) 4 CPU 650   3.40GHz"

Not dual core.

"Hyper-Threading Technology: Yes"

It does have HT though which will speed it up.

"Expected System Bus Frequency: 800 MHz"

Which is good for a P4

This doesn't seem to be test of your hardware specs.  This only tested your processor.  It's a good, stable and reliable processor, however there are faster ones on the market if that's what you want.  So in order to give you a review about your system I would need all of your specs about your system.  However based on this your processor isn't a bad one.  But to tell you more about how it works with your system I will need the rest of your specs. 

more info

512 mb ram
80 Gb Harddisk
1 combo drive
1 dvd drive
No floppy Drive
Sound Card realtek
128 mb shared memory with graphics card Intel 829452 Express Chipset Maybe add another 512 of RAM and another 80gb HDD and you'll notice a difference.  Maybe also a little bigger video card, 256 maybe.     Other than that it's a good system.  The upgrades aren't critical, your system is ok as is.  What I've recommended are just where you could upgrade it.............
Can i use windows64
What are it's advantagesRead here to LEARN more about Windows XP 64 bit edition.  You can read about the benefits there.Can I USE WINXP64 OR NOTThe short answer is yes, you can. you have the new type of Pentium 4 processor that's capable of 64-bit processing.

Now, will you notice a huge difference with XP 64-bit? Maybe, maybe not. Depends on what you normally do with your computer. Quote from: dstar101 on October 16, 2007, 07:11:16 AM

............
Can i use windows64
What are it's advantages

The cartridge was just replaced because it was low and PICTURE quality was crap. With new cartridge, printing color pictures from the web shows way too much blue and very little black and just poor quality. This used to PRINT much better pics than this. It's a HP psc 950. Whats the deal? The printer? Cartridge? Try printer's head cleaning utility. It should be under printer's icon right click>Properties.
Allow printer to print a test PAGE. You'll SEE there, if there are any irregularities.

Greetings,
I have a custom built pc (AMD Athlon 64 and Seagate 300 HD) and just started having trouble.  It just stopped powering up.  So I put in an extra power supply I had laying around and it now starts up but it beeps every couple of seconds and nothing initiates.  I know everything was hooked up right so I am stumped as to what's making it beep.  I thought maybe the memory was bad, but I don't want to just start throwning $$ at it and not know what is wrong.  PLEASE HELP!?!?!?It could be just about anything. Video card, motherboard, memory, Maybe if we knew what brand and model the motherboard, display card, etc are, we could start to guess. Do the beeps happen about 2 seconds apart? Is there a little burst of beeps at power on (if so, give number and whether long/short) and then just a regular set of beeps from then on? Are you still in touch with the custom builder?

Do you have a spare video card you could try? Maybe you could borrow some RAM? Is this a new build that has never worked right or has it been OK for a while? Did it do anything odd before it started playing up?
Thanks.  I built it so there's no one I can go to.  The motherboard is an ECS C51GM-M.  The hard drive is a Maxtor ultra 300gb, not a Seagate as I said before.  The video card is an HT2000 GeForce 6100 and came with the motherboard.  I don't have a way to borrow RAM.  The beeps are 4 seconds apart and last for 2 seconds.  They start a few seconds after the unit is powered up then continue.  The monitor shown nothing when the unit is powered up. 

I built it about a year ago and it has worked fine until last week.  Then last week it wouldn't power up at all, then I changed out the power supply and it now starts but I all I get are just beeps.   I had a simular problem once that required me to research POST errors or beeps and what there trying to indicate, therin usualy is the problem. Here is a copy of one part of the page and info to look it up for yourself...Also I agree with the prev advise..could be MEM, video, HDD or even clearing the CMOS jumper might help. If you have'nt tried that already..This is for Pheniox, AMI or Award BIOS Chips. Yours should be one of those..Beep CODES and their meanings + Website...

WebSite; http://www.amptron.com/html/bios.beepcodes.html

BEEP CODE  MEANING  POSSIBLE CAUSE 
 1 Beep (No video)  Memory refresh failure  Bad memory
 2 Beeps   Memory parity error  Bad memory
 3 Beeps   Base 64K mem failure  Bad memory
 4 Beeps   Timer not operational  Bad motherboard
 5 Beeps  Processor error  Bad processor
 6 Beeps   8042 Gate A20 failure  Bad CPU or Motherboard
 7 Beeps  Processor exception   Bad processor
 8 Beeps  Video memory error  Bad video card or memory
 9 Beeps  ROM checksum error  Bad BIOS 
10 Beeps  CMOS checksum error  Bad motherboard
11 Beeps  Cache memory bad  Bad CPU or motherboard

Award BIOS Beep Codes
Award BIOS uses beeps of varying duration. A long beep will typically last for 2 seconds while a short beep will last only 1 second. Award BIOS also uses beeps of different frequency to indicate critical errors. If an Award BIOS detects that the CPU is overheating it may play a high pitched repeating beep while the computer is running.
 
BEEP CODE  MEANING  POSSIBLE CAUSE
 1 Long, 2 Short  Video adapter failure  Bad video adapter
 Repeating (Endless loop)  Memory error  Bad memory or bad connection
 1 Long, 3 Short  Video adapter failure  Bad video adapter or memory
 High freq. beeps (while running)  CPU is overheating  CPU fan failure
 Repeating High, Low beeps  CPU failure  Bad processor
   
Phoenix BIOS Beep Codes
Phoenix BIOS uses beep code patterns to indicate problems. In the table below the '-' indicates a brief pause between beeps.
Example: 1 - 1 - 2  would sound like BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP
 
 BEEP CODE  MEANING  POSSIBLE CAUSE
 1 - 1 - 2   CPU / motherboard failure  Bad CPU / motherboard 
 1 - 1 - 3  CMOS read/write failure  Bad motherboard
 1 - 1 - 4  BIOS ROM failure  Bad BIOS chip
 1 - 2 - 1   Timer failure  Bad motherboard
 1 - 2 - 2  DMA failure  Bad motherboard
 1 - 2 - 3  DMA failure  Bad motherboard
 1 - 3 - 1   Memory refresh failure  Bad memory
 1 - 3 - 2  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 1 - 3 - 3  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 1 - 3 - 4  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 1 - 4 - 1  Address line failure  Bad memory
 1 - 4 - 2  Parity error  Bad memory
 1 - 4 - 3  Timer failure  Bad motherboard
 1 - 4 - 4  NMI port failure  Bad motherboard
 2 - 1 - 1  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 1 - 2  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 1 - 3  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 1 - 4  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 2 - 1  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 2 - 2  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 2 - 3  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 2 - 4  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 3 - 1  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 3 - 2  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 3 - 3  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 3 - 4  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 4 - 1  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 4 - 2  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 4 - 4  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 2 - 4 - 4  64K memory failure  Bad memory
 3 - 1 - 1  SLAVE DMA failure  Bad motherboard
 3 - 1 - 2  Master DMA failure  Bad motherboard
 3 - 1 - 3  Interrupt controller failure  Bad motherboard
 3 - 1 -4  Slave IC failure  Bad motherboard
 3 - 2 -2  Interrupt Controller failure  Bad motherboard
 3 - 2 - 3     
 3 - 2 - 4  Keyboard control failure  Bad motherboard
 3 - 3 - 1  CMOS batter failure  Bad CMOS battery
 3 - 3 - 2  CMOS configuration error  Incorrect setting
 3 - 3 - 3     
 3 - 3 - 4  Video memory failure  Bad video card or memory
 3 - 4 - 1  Video init failure  Bad video card or memory
 4 - 2 - 1  Timer failure  Bad motherboard
 4 - 2 - 2  CMOS shutdown failure  Bad motherboard
 4 - 2 - 3  Gate A20 failure  Bad motherboard
 4 - 2 - 4  Unexpected interrupt  Bad processor
 4 - 3 - 1  RAM test failure  Bad memory
 4 - 3 - 3  Timer failure  Bad motherboard
 4 - 3 - 4  RTC failure  Bad motherboard 
 4 - 4 - 1  Serial port failure  Bad motherboard
 4 - 4 - 2  Parallel port failure  Bad motherboard
 4 - 4 - 3  Coprocessor failure  Bad motherboard or CPU.
 9 - 2 - 1  Video adapter incompatibility  Use a different brand of video card
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
*Designs, specifications and package contents are subject to change without notice. Various trademarks belong to their respective owners. Please read the legal notice.  ©1997-2005 All rights reserved. Amptron International Inc. 17501 Rowland St., City of Industry CA., 91748 (626) 912-5789 
Thanks!  Based on that info I would have to guess it's the memory.  I will take one 1GB of RAM from the pc I built and have at my office and try using that in the one at home that is beeping.  Then if that doesn't fix it I will move to the next possibility.There's a chance the other PSU isn't up to snuff either...borrow a known good one of the same or greater wattage and test it for 24 hours to see...

Well, the problem started about 4 months ago.
I was playing some games with my computer untill I heard a weird sound coming from my headphones and then my computer crashed, I called a technician and he told me I had to change my motherboard because it died...
I changed it, I had an ASUS very good and reliable for the time I bought it on 2004, so it's a Socket 478, and now they changed it for a FOXCONN wich it appeared to be broken as well so they putted another FOXCONN motherboard.

The problem is around one the devices the motherboard has. I'd been looking all around the internet and "apparently" the problem seems to be with the sound device, an SiS 7012 Realtek AC'97 Audio Card.
The driver doesn't seems to be compatible with WindowsXP so all the other componenets of my computer kinda like to GO crazy. I can't play any games or see any full sized videos on youtube for example because it shows really SLOW...and my mouse  freezes sometimes around the screen so it even makes working an impossible thing to do. I have to disable my sound device each time I wanna play or see videos but the mouse problem is still there.

I have already asked the technician and he appears to be much more stupid than me to say "EVERYTHING's fine with your computer" so I'm kinda lost guys.

There's some INFO about my pc. I hope it's not too LITTLE

I can see one HERE.
Item #4the link that broni gave you sure solve it but incase  you still can try in driverguide.comThanks guys, I'll make sure to try out these drivers Broni.
Hope it'll save my day

Monitors brightness control box pops up, lowers brightness to zero.  Then CLOSES. Cannot control while on screen. After box closes am able to open from monitor settings buttons and reset brightness.  Then brightness box opens and readjusts to zero.  Unable to stop this.  Have tried SAVING changes via double click on EXIT button per manual.  No help.  Suggestions?you might have a bad monitor........but,

you could change brightness and contrast etc, settings from your computer.

If your VIDEO card came with a driver, you can probably change the settings through the driver's control panel.

Give it a tryYou MAY have to update your video driver. I REALIZE, that it may be hard while monitor's display GOES on, and off. How long will it stay up? Do you have another monitor to hook up?

I believe my computer was overheating (kept freezing for no reason, tried everything from various scans to driver updates to all hardware replacement except processor, opened it up, put a fan on it and seemed to remedy) so I took the little fan off the processor, cleaned off the excess dust there and from the heat sink, put them back on...now nothing!  What did I do?  It GETS power, the fans spin on processor and case, the drives start spinning, I can see the little light on the motherboard, but it won't go out of the standby mode "yellow light" situation, the keyboard & monitor won't come on.  Did I do it this time?  Was trying to help myself hurt me irrepairably?  I've got:

Gateway 1.3Ghz P4
1.2G RAM
Windows XP SP2
40G HD & 20G slave drive (storage)Turn off the computer (disconnect everything) and pull out the battery on the motherboard for 30 seconds and put it back in. (looks like a pancake) Then turn on your computer.

Let me KNOW if that works or not... if not I have a few more things to do.BTW...what did you use to clean the heatsink?Did you remove just the fan or did you also detach the heatsink from the processor/motherboard?Removed the battery, put back in...still no go.  I took the heat sink off of the processor, took the fan off of the heat sink to clean out both.  The heat sink only goes one way onto the holder on the motherboard, well, one way or the other, and I tried both ways.  You can see the spot where the heat sink rests on the processor.  There was a good BIT of dust on both sink and fan, having not cleaned it out before now, and used a small dry soft brush to get down between the blade tines of the heat sink...o.m.g.!  You don't suppose I created static with the brush do you?   Nope...you just broke the thermal paste seal between the heatsink and the processor.

Now what you need to do is remove the old thermal paste compound and apply a new thin layer between the processor and the heatsink...being careful not to add too much...or too little.

Once you've done that...carefully put it back together and try again.
For reference:

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/274Ahhhh, now that you mention it I do detect some residue on the processor and under the heatsink.  Well, I'm off to the computer store for some thermal grease, I'll let you know how it goes.  Hope I haven't already messed it up by turning it on without the grease, one of those help pages said that having it for as little as 10 seconds without the grease may hurt the processor.   

Thanks a ton for all your help guys.  Here's hoping...You're welcome...

Please keep us posted...Well, I'm afraid it's still a no go after the thermal compound procedure.  You know, I'm one of those guys who knows just enough to get himself in trouble, and I've had the freezing problem for quite a while and after trying every remedy known to man I'd thought I'd FINALLY got a handle on it by thinking it was an overheating problem, but now I've got nothing and right now the INTERMITENT freezing problem looks pretty good.

But thanks again for your help and suggestions!Swap in a known good PSU of the same or greater wattage and see what happens... Quote from: patio on October 06, 2007, 02:53:31 PM

Swap in a known good PSU of the same or greater wattage and see what happens...

Check every thing you removed is seated...

Other than that i would say power supply....

Is it a dell by any chance ?

Just making a long story longer, I installed a program that Intel has that monitors core temperature, and as I said, when I opened up the case and put a regular table-top fan right on the processor it tended not to do it.

Hello friends this is my 1st QUESTION in this forum 
I Have 2 computers 1: pentium III
                                2: Pentium D
last 15 days my Compact Flash CARD Is Not Read by Pentium D Same is Ok With Pentium III PC Ihave 3 Cf CARDS & 2 Card readers ,All Attaching Any Card Or READER does not solve my problem in Pentium D computer Pls. help me solving this problem does your pentium D computer have the drivers for the card reader?

When synchronize my local hard drive with my network drive (Maxtor Shared Storage II) the timestamps of the files on the network drive are CHANGED to the TIME of copying. Thus I end up with all files backed up being NEWER than the files on the local drive. This is quite annoying because my synchronizer (GoodSync V6) uses the "last changed" timestamp as reference. This problem does not appear when synchronizing my local HD with other external drives (USB sticks, CF and SD memory cards, image tank (FAT32) and my older external HD (NTFS))

I contacted the Maxtor Support and they told me that they cannot do anything about it as the MSSII drives uses Linux file structure.  This surpises me: am I the only one with this problem?

How can I copy to my network drive keeping the copied files' timestamps unchanged? As far as I know under UNIX this is possible with "cp --preserve". But how can I tell my network drive to do so as the rest of my system is running under XP?

Or let me put it the other way around: how do UNIX users synchronize their drives?

*****************************
Harddrive: Maxtor Shared Storage II 1TB
NTFS formatted, running under RAID1 (500 GB), connected with LAN at 100 Mbit/s through DSL Modem/Router AVM Fritz!Box WLAN
OS: Windows XP MEDIA Center Addition
Computer: Medion MD96097, Intel Core 2 DUO, 2 GB RAM, Notebook connected to network through cable (100 Mbit/s), local HD's NTFS formatted
copy commands tried: synchronizer "GoodSync V6", Windows Explorer

Hi, I have a multifunctional printer HP model PSC1610 All-in-One that have a rare failure on it's NORMAL working. It load the paper by itself without any print job o copy job, and when the paper is at middle out, the printer shows in the display: "Paper Jam: Clear jam and press OK." Well, I'm just clear the jam, and it make the same operation again, and don't permit to print from my pc and copies too. I don't know what should I do, because I've been seek for maintainance but I don't find nothing.

Please help me if you know something about this printer, Thanks and best wishes!!!!

PD: The printer warranty is over.Try disconnecting your printer from power SUPPLY for a minute, or so.I've been try disconnecting the power supply, but the failure stills present.Try reinstalling the DRIVER, but I doubt that's the problem.  Most likely it's either:
1. paper sensor problem (blow out the paper path with compressed air)
2. a systemboard problem on the printer (not WORTH getting repaired)

Alan <>< 
Find "spool" folder on your computer, and post here what files, and sub-folders you have there.
Sometimes, some interrupted printing job leaves there some leftovers.

I have a start up and beeping issue.  Here's what I have:  AMD processor, ECS motherboard, Maxtor ATA 300GB HD and NVIDIA GEFORCE 6100 that came with the motherboard.  I'm not sure of the brand of RAM. 

I built the thing about a yr ago and it worked GREAT up to now.  Last week it wouldn't even power up.  So I changed the power supply and now it starts but all I get is a 2 second beep that comes every 4 seconds and nothing on the monitor.

Any ideas??     Try re-seating both the RAM and the vid card...Thanks.  I did and now the beeping stopped but the HD isn't engaging - I think all that's running is the CPU fan.  The monitor is not showing anything.
Do you have another video card you could try?  Also it seems as though your power supply may have crapped out on you again.  You should test that as well.I do have another video card I could try.  It's an ATI that's about 3 years old.  The old video card was built in to the motherboard.  Will the system recognize the new one if I haven't told it to use the new one?If you plug the card in and plug the monitor into it then it should recognize it and install any drivers that it will need.take all the memory sticks out of your computer and turn it on. if it gives the same beep error, it's most likely memory. do you have any other known good ram modules you could try in it?Thanks.  I did that earlier and it still beeps the same.  I guess it's the memory.  I will make sure by installing one of 2 sticks in my other pc and see if that fixes the problem.
  pleased read this
Computer Error Diagnostic Beeps

NO BEEPS              Short, No Power,Bad CPU/MB.Loose Peripherals
 1 SHORTBEEP              Everything is normal And computer Posted fine
2 SHORT BEEPS           Post /CMOS Error
1 LONG BEEP,1 SHORT BEEP          Motherboard Problem
1 LONG BEEP, 2 SHORT BEEPS      Video Problem
1 LONG BEEP,  3 SHORT BEEPS              Graphic Problem
3 LONG BEEPS           Keybord Error
REPEATED LONG BEEPS                   Memory error
CONTINOUS HI-LO BEEPS                   CPU Overheating                     

I have a Dell PowerEdge 1750 that has been shutting down every few days. I have changed some settings to see if this might be the issue, but all the settings appear to be correct. The server is also very loud. I was wondering if anyone had any advice on where to LOOK next? The server was only a development server before but I need to convert to production. So I need to get it fixed.With the information provided it sounds like an issue with overheating.  The noise sounds like your fans may not be operating at 100% of their abilities.So are these servers as repairable as a regular computer or should I go ahead and outsource them to be fixed. I have worked on regular COMPUTERS for years and have just now started on these servers.Should be pretty much all the components you are used to seeing...just beefier in production and designed to run 24/7...
Do the first one yourself
What backup strategy does the firm have in place ? ?
You may want to GATHER as much info on that and other particulars before proceeding.I run Veritas backup to disk with a daily, weekly, monthly and YEARLY SCHEDULES. This particular computer was a development computer with nothing on it needing to be salvaged, so with all the informatio nI have been provided, I think I am ready to proceed.Yes it will be the same, with the exception of maybe the hard drives.  They may look a little different if you have them in a SCSI array.  But it's still the basic concept.  You shouldn't have any problems.  Just  make sure that all information is protected.  Sometimes even when something seems unimportant it could still be important.  Good luck.Thanks.

HELP!  My computer/laptop sounds like a car trying to turn over.  It'll run fine for the first maybe hour, and then starts this noise and SLOWS right down..  Its almost 4 years old, Toshiba Satellite.

I'm thinking its my fan... any ideas/suggestions??  I've already backed everything up for fear of it dying!Welcome aboard

I'd open computer case, and check where is that noise coming from. Maybe some fan is going south.this is a laptop, correct? taking it apart just to check a fan would be pretty tedious...might be your hard drive. find out the maufacturer of your hard drive...easiest way to try to do it is go to device manager. should be under disk drives. when you find out, go to that manufacturer's website and download the testing utility. run it and let us know the results.It is a laptop.  I previously took it apart to try and figure out where the sound was coming from, but couldn't quite figure it out... its at the back near the fan, nowhere near the hard drive.  In fact I KNOW its not the hard drive, cuz I just replaced it about 4 months ago...

I cleaned all the dust off the fan (there was a lot) but it didn't really do ANYTHING...I guess my question is, if in fact it is my fan that is pretty much dead, could that CAUSE my computer to run slower than molases in January???Yes a dead fan can eventually kill your computer. I dont mess with my laptops, just me desktops. At this point I would take my in and have it fixed. It's usually cheaper than the cost of an entire new one, and the work should be warrantied. Just a suggestion. Quote

My computer/laptop

8)hi my pc starts up fine but after a short while it shuts down . im kinda thinking its the processor fan but im not sure . any help given WOULD be very gratefull . thank you Open your computer side panel. If you have regular house fan, PUT it next to your computer, turn it on, and try using your computer for a while. See, if it helps. You're thinking RIGHT if the pc turns off or restarts WITHOUT any BSOF, then its the fan. Go to your local computer HARDWARE store and buy thermal paste and put some of it between the cpu and the fan. Here, I pulled up the first link I found on google on how to apply thermal paste http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/274/3

I hope this helps.

Hi, when i went to turn my computer on today it had 1 long bip followed by 3 short beeps.
The monitor started to turn on but nothing happened. It stayed COMPLETELY black. I changed monitors but niether turned on.
What do these beeps mean. Are they some KIND of error code?
Thanks. You can look at the below site.

http://www.pchell.com/hardware/beepcodes.shtmlYes, the beeps are error messages. Beep codes are different with different versions of BIOS so I wouldn't be able to tell you what the beeps mean with your computer.That sounds like a Bad Monitor or Graphics Card..Also if the monitor ur using went out. then make sure your second monitor that you checked it with, was not an old one from 1997-2000. it might beep the same.. Also Award, Pheniox and AMI BIOS, those are mostly used on todays sys boards, if that helps any..My BET is on your card..,

now i can do anything !
when i turne the computer on it goes to a blank screen can anyone walk me threw fixing it ?
ok we need alot more info about your computer, what you were doing when this happened, exactly what happened before and after to be able to help you at all...First: You have to specify if you have been connected some NEW component to your PC.

Second: Check if you have an USB drive connected to your PC.

Third: You have to tell what kind of machine do you have, ALSO, when starts the failure.

also, what is your computer configuration. Are you sure you did not accidentally disconnect cable from your monitor to your computer (assuming you have the desktop computer)

Most likely there is something wrong with the video card connection or with the video card itself. I had the same THING when turning on computer the monitor just goes "black", after replacing the video card everything was back to normal. I don't SEE how this could be caused by faulty drivers or SYSTEM software.

hi everyone,

I wanted to change the sensitivity of my mouse (i want to decrease its sensitivity), such that the movement of the pointer on the screen is the same as that on the mouse pad. I mean that if we are moving 1 cm on the mouse pad mouse pointer on the screen sholld also move 1cm on the screen. Is there a way to do this? 

depending on your OS:  settings>control panel>click on the mouse icon and PLAY with the SPEEDS until your satisfied.You can't really do that 1cm to 1cm. You adjust the settings by the feel, set the indicator where you feel that moving the mouse 2-3 inches one way or the other would get you to the end of the screen. I don't SEE why would you NEED 1cm (unless that was just an example) because it would take you a long time and lot of hand motion to get from my side of the screen to another one.

and I have no idea whats wrong with it

It loads up then at random times it freezes and dies, sometimes it doesnt even get to a windows screen. I have no idea if its my PSU, GFX Card, HDD or a virus/software conflict have you tried BOOTING into safemode?  or have you checked your BIOS settings or tried to reset the CMOS?I can't work out the button to choose the option for Safe zone as no option comes up on start up, how does ONE reset cmos as I can enter my bios easily.Your PC may be overheating. When you boot up, listen carefully to determine if you hear any FANS turning on. You can also try opening up the case to visually confirm if the fans are spinning.

With the case open, you can also try taking the RAM modules out and putting them back in firmly. Re-seating the RAM like this has been known to fix problems like the one you are experiencing.

When you say your PC "dies", does it give you a stop error (or "blue screen") with error codes on it?

no error, it just freezes, the screen stays the same but you can't do anything.it could be heat, or it could be a failing PSU.  My guess is that it is one of the two.

I DOUBT it is the RAM being seated incorrectly.  In my experience, the comp will not POST and will beep continuously if the RAM is not seated firmly.  It could, however be bad RAM.  

Revanash, do you have a good working PSU anywhere that you could switch in and test?   Quote from: Flip81 on October 15, 2007, 09:26:22 AM

it could be heat, or it could be a failing PSU.  My guess is that it is one of the two.

I doubt it is the RAM being seated incorrectly.  In my experience, the comp will not POST and will beep continuously if the RAM is not seated firmly.  It could, however be bad RAM.  

Revanash, do you have a good working PSU anywhere that you could switch in and test?  

Hi, I was RECENTLY having PROBLEMS with sound on my COMPUTER. I can hear sound from windows media player or any other software that plays music like iTunes, etc.

I hear sound as expected when I view a video on youtube using firefox. But when i try VIEWING a video on youtube using INTERNET explorer or avant browser, there is no sound.

I have not changed any settings. I previously had problem where sound disappeared completely, but I fixed it using system restore.

Any suggestions?Try here:
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/555474
It's for XP, but there are same settings for Vista

CPU - LGA775 socket for Intel® Pentium 4/Celeron CPU
- Compatible with Intel® 04B and 04A processors
- Intel®Hyper-Threading Technology ready
 
Chipset Intel® 915G
Intel® ICH6R
Front Side Bus 800 / 533 MHz
Memory - Dual channel memory architecture
- 2 x 240-pin DIMM sockets support max. 2GB DDR2 533/400 non-ECC memory
- 4 x 184-pin DIMM Sockets support max. 4GB DDR 400/333 non-ECC memory
(Note: DDR and DDR2 memory can not be used simultaneously)
Expansion Slots 1 x PCI Express X16 slot for discrete graphics card
2 x PCI Express X1
3 x PCI
Storage/RAID Intel® ICH6R South Bridge:
- 1 x UltraDMA 100/66/33
- 4 x Serial ATA with IntelR Matrix Storage Technology with RAID 0, 1 support
ITE® IDE RAID controller:
- 2 x UltraDMA 133/100/66 with JBOD, RAID 0, 1, 0+1 support
LAN Marvell® 88E8053 PCIe Gigabit LAN Controller, features AI NET2
Audio C-Media High Definition Audio 8-channel CODEC
Coaxial, Optical S/PDIF out on back I/O port
Features Dolby® Digital Live technology
IEEE 1394 TI 1394 controller supports 2 x 1394 ports
USB Max. 8 USB 2.0 ports
ASUS AI Proactive Features AI NOS™ (Non-delay Overclocking System)
AI NET2 network diagnosis before entering OS
Stack Cool™ patented fanless cooling system
Overclocking Features AI NOS™ (Non-delay Overclocking System)
AI Overclocking (intelligent CPU frequency tuner)
CPU, Memory, and PCIe x16 voltage adjustable
SFS (Stepless Frequency Selection) from 100MHz up to 400MHz at 1MHz increment
Adjustable FSB/DDR ratio. Fixed PCI/PCIe frequencies.
ASUS AI Booster utility
ASUS C.P.R.(CPU Parameter Recall)
Other ASUS Special Features CrashFree BIOS 2
Q-Fan2
MyLogo
BIOS 4 Mb Flash ROM,AMI BIOS, PnP, DMI2.0, WfM2.0, SM BIOS 2.3
Back Panel I/O Ports 1 x VGA out
1 x Parallel
1 x Optical + 1 x Coaxial S/PDIF Output
1 x PS/2 Keyboard
1 x PS/2 Mouse
1 x RJ45
4 x USB 2.0/1.1
1 x IEEE1394
8-Channel Audio I/O
 
Internal I/O CONNECTORS 2 x USB 2.0 connectors supports additional 4 USB 2.0 ports
1 x IEEE1394 connector
1 x COM connector
1 x GAME/MIDI connector
CPU / Chassis / Power Fan connectors
Front panel High Definition Audio connector
Chassis Intrusion connector
CD audio-in connector
24-pin ATX Power connector
4-pin ATX 12V Power connector
 
  Form Factor ATX Form Factor, 12" x 9.6"(30.5cm x 24.5cm)
VGA Intel® Graphics Media Accelerator 900 


I also got a  nVIDIA GeForce 7200 GS Supporting 256MB/ 512MB DDR2 PCI-E for 60 bux to go with
 
Chipset : GeForce 7200 GS

Memory : 256MB SUPPORTING 512MB

Memory Interface : 64-bit

Memory Bus : 64 bit

Memory Type : DDR2

Graphics Core : 450 MHz

Memory Clock : 533 MHz

Clock rate : 450 MHz

RAMDACs : 400 MHz

Bus Type : PCI-E

Fill Rate : 0.9 Billion pixels/sec

Memory Bandwidth : 6.4 GB/sec

Vertices Per Second : 225 Million

Pixels per Clock (peak) : 2

3D API: DirectX 9.0, OpenGL2.0

Output : VGA, DVI, HDTV

Highlighted Features : HDTV ready , VISTA , RoH


It looks alright to me. But I've only had a QUICK glance, so some things there could be terrible. Hopefully not.You really got that computer for $60?  If that's really what you paid then yes you go yourself a good deal. its not a computer its a mother board, that was 59 dolars plus 25 shipping/handling and the graphic crard was 49 plus 8 shipping/handling so all in all i payed $145.73, which is still pretty god dang goodOk sorry that was a misinterpretation on my part.  But you are correct.  That is still worth the money you paid.   Better than the one a bought a year ago for $100. So yes!

I have a 1TB External Maxtor USB drive. It uses two 500GB sata drives. ONE of the drives crashed (some great CLICKING noises though) which in affect has made this a nice big paper weight. I took it apart and isolated the bad drive.

Once put back together it wouldn't work as a 500GB drive. So I pulled both drives and put in matching sata 80GB sata drives to see if it would REBUILD itself. (I assume it is using striping rather than extending.) Well it doesn't rebuild so I think the actual card it set to work with 500gb drives.

Is there a program or utility that I can reconfigure the built in driver on this Maxtor drive so I can mount two new drives??Could you tell us the product name of that external drive? (Besides Maxtor I mean)And Maxtor's website would be my first stop...It has two MAXLINE Pro 500gs sata drives. Model 7H500F0. The actual drive was Maxtor OneTouch 1000GB USB2. The drive card isn't well marked and has only a revision number and s/n.We still don't have a lot to go on.
Maxtor has 4 lines of OneTouch products.
Maybe you can find the one you have here and the tell us the exact product name.
Maxtor OneTouch III (GH010W)

I have a Deskjet 3900 Series Low Ink WARNING pop up that pops up every time I log on.  It is for the tri-color cartridge which I rarely use.  I have tried remiving and REPLACE *the same) cartidge,  but the warning still comes up and I have close it every time.

I know ... there is some simple solution to this, but I'm not smart enough to figure it out.

Help!

Thanks!

Donnie Quote from: Donnie on October 14, 2007, 04:44:46 PM

I have a Deskjet 3900 Series Low Ink warning pop up that pops up every time I log on.  It is for the tri-color cartridge which I rarely use.  I have tried remiving and replace *the same) cartidge,  but the warning still comes up and I have close it every time.

I know ... there is some simple solution to this, but I'm not smart enough to figure it out.

Help!

Thanks!

Donnie

I have tried remiving and replace *the same) cartidge

Im adding a gateway 2000 destination 31" monitor to my compaq PRESARIO.  When booting it starts out fine, but when desktop START the screen is distorted with lines.  Window does not SHOW MOINITOR in deivce MANAGER and show as default monitor in safe mode.You need to install monitor driver. Usually there is a CD, which comes with a monitor.

Computer was running fine and I walked away from it for awhile (couple HOURS) but when I came back to it the monitor was blank (not screen saver or power save) and I couldn't get it to respond.  The CPU lights were still on but nothing on screen so I used the reset button.  It rebooted and I saw the beginning of the boot on screen but then it blanked.  I tried resetting it again and this time it just started beeping.  Now when I turn it on the Monitor displays a message --"No signal"-- and the CPU just beeps continuously.

Checked all connections and everything is snug inside and out.

Computer stats:

AMD ATHLON XP 2800+, ASUS A7N8X Pure SKTA DDR, 1.5 Gb DDR400, Western Digital 200Gb HD, Gainward Ultra 780XP, Soundblaster Audigy, ViewSonic 17" monitor.  About 3-4 years old.

Can anyone help?First suspect - your RAM.
Turn off your computer. Open the case. Ground yourself (touch power supply box). Remove RAM. Clean RAM module connectors, using eraser. Put it back.
If this doesn't work, and you have more, then one memory sticks, try them one at a time.Thanks, I had just decided to start pulling things out.  Pulling the RAM out and reseating it allowed the computer to boot a little further, but it kept shutting itself down past a CERTAIN point.  Different each time. 

Second or third time I got into BIOS and checked settings, everything seems to be okay.  But on exiting with F10 it shut itself down again.

Then it wouldn't boot at all for a couple of TRIES.  I push the button and can hear the power supply and fan start up but then it shuts down.

Tried a few more times and finally got it into Windows and apparently it's running okay now.  Restarted and then shut down and rebooted.  Seems okay.

Don't know what all that was about but I sure do appreciate your willingness to help.  Stay tuned...  I wish you further luck

I am a freelancer writer and one of my clients has "Article Management System" site for the writers to upload assignments into. We have to zip or compress the files if we have more than one document file to send him. RECENTLY, I have not been able to upload any zipped or compressed file in the system at all. I have USED Google Chrome, IE, and Mozilla Firefox browsers. That didn't work. I have tried with my desktop, laptop and my daughter's laptop.

When I go to the AMS site it has the choose file button so I can select a file from my computer to upload. Once I have the file selected if it is a .doc or a .docx it will go through just fine, but if it is a .zip file is does nothing. The tab at the top of the page says connecting, but it flips back to the page as if I never chose a file to begin with. The file is never uploaded into the AMS site.

This has been going on for about 2 weeks now and no one has been able to understand what is happening. Can anyone please help me so I don't lose my job?

Thanks
Teresa Sounds like a problem with the server. If .doc and .docx go through just fine, it might be blocking other extensions for SECURITY REASONS.

You should ask the webmaster to check the settings on uploading files.

If other people can successfully upload their work and you can't, then the problem might be local. A bad connection causing connections to be dropped. Are you using a wired or a wireless connection?

Did you try resetting your router and/or modem?

I have the Asrock Z68 Pro3-M motherboard, is it compatible with the Roccat Kave headset? The headset uses real 5.1 surround sound and I would like to utilize this feature.
Thanks in advance.The important requirement here is the soundcard connecting the headset. See the manual here for more information.Well my motherboard has its own audio so I shouldn't need a sound card RIGHT?If you have the same audio ports needed and shown on the manual, then yes you can use the 5.1 surround sound output from the headset. LOOKING on the Z68 mobo online shows even a 7.1 CH support which is more than enough. I guess the manual NEEDS to be UPDATED.

I tried to ADD two sticks of 1GB RAM each to my 32bit Windows XP system, it already had 640MB, 1 STICK 128MB, 1 stick 512MB, so, I slotted it in and clipped the latches, but about 20-30 seconds after Windows boots, there's anoise like a 'brrp' and the system freezes, no mouse movement, no nothing, I tried the four sticks in various configurations, including putting it back in how it was before I started and putting the largest stick in where the previously largest stick was (what I assume was slot 0) but the problem kept happening. The second or third time I was MOVING RAM, one of the latches broke, but I didn't use that slot the next few times and the problem continued. I went into the BIOS, but I didn't see anything pertaining to RAM in there. Is it possible I hit something and caused a serious problem?

System:
Motherboard: MSI MS-7191
Windows XP 32bit
RAM: 640MB initially, trying to add ANOTHER 2GB. All the RAM sticks are DDR PC3200.Dalta,

You should install memory with matching memory. Many motherboards are picky and cause intermittent problems when you mix brands or even different models of the same brand of memory. I would suggest removing the 128mb and the 512mb sticks. See if the issue still happens with only the NEW memory installed.Hi

With that m/board you need to install the 1gb modules either in the purple or green sockets NOT 1 in green 1  purple. If that still doesn't work try the M/board with 1 module of the original memory and see if it starts. If still no go then try the memory in each of the sockets, and  hope that 1 combination works. When installing memory it is important to turn the power off at the wall wait a minute or 2 and then keep yourself grounded to the case as you handle the memory. Try not to touch the contacts as oil from your skin will cause corrosion. 

Keep us posted how you go

Lisa

I have a Compaq Proliant 8000T (8SSXE1), XP Home SP. 3, Intel 2.2, maxed at 1 GB memory, (2) 80 GB drives-the second is setup to automatic backup of data on primary drive. Since I bought the system new in 2002, have downloaded, installed, tried out, then uninstalled (USUALLY successfully) TONS of apps. Now that the SSD's are out, am thinking about replacing my primary drive with one. My data is kept currently backed up on 2nd drive, but will make sure and backup on DVDs since I gotta bunch anyway. I have the original install disks and LOTS of time cause it will require it, not only to re-install the original XP but all the other stuff that came with it, then all the updates, service packs, etc. The system is definitely slower, McAfee takes all night to run, other apps are slower, too. Have run all disk maintenance XP has plus CCleaner, but I think it's time for a fresh install.
Now, will my system support SSD?
Is it a waste of time/money for an old system that I don't think will support Windows 7 (ain't going to Vista, that's for sure!!!)
Should I replace BOTH drives with SSDs?
What would be some good brands to check into?
The 2nd drive is also used as a NAS for 2 laptops, instead of that, would an NAS connected to my router (Cisco/Linksys WRT54G) be better?
Thanks in advance
SandisDadAs an alternative to removing an internal HDD and replacing it with an internal SSD you might want to consider the use of an external SSD connected via a USB port. If your desire is to increase the availability of storage so as to lessen the current used space on your 2 existing internals you have a MULTITUDE of options. I have answered you initially based on my observation of your SSD stated route. However if you want additional storage you could achieve this by an internal HDD (sata/ide as required) or external of larger storage size. They are available of sizes over 2 TB now. I am aware of the SSD concept and their virtues however byte for byte they are still quite expensive when compared with sata/ide drives. truenorthHow full in your primary hard drive partition, your OS partition?  If you disable McAfee, do you notice a difference in performance? There's 142 GB used, 309 available. Yeah, thought McAfee mite be the culprit, too, but when I renewed about 2 months ago, deliberately let it expire, uninstalled it, ran MCE (McAfee tool to remove remnants of the program), went to some safe sites and downloaded, accessed bank ACCOUNT, etc. Still slow. Have ran MSCONFIG several times over the years, unchecked programs that had been uninstalled but still showing running in the background, so unchecked them, a few months later, it is back. Just so much stuff over 10  years needs cleaning up, that's why I'm taking extra step to move data to DVDs, then blow away the old XP, start over fresh......MAYBE on new drive if it's cost effective
Also, how secure is anything stored on SSD? Not virus-wise, but will it be there when I need it until I remove it....just been using the coventional HDD for so long, kinda cautious about something new like this. Shoot, I've got an original IBM 10 MB MFM?RLL drive stashed around here somewhere-a unique paperweight now, but I think they sold for $10,000 new..."back in the day"
Thanks for your reply and the good idea you had.
SandisDadGlad to hear you're saving files to DVD.  Based on the background info you've provided regarding your comupter, formatting and resinstalling Windows may, indeed, be the best/easiest solution for you.  I don't really see that need to buy an SSD drive.  But, running a hard drive diagnostic tool to check your two 80GB drives is probably a good idea.

If you're still thinking of improving the situation without formatting your drive, then you should probably do a thorough review of programs installed and remove ones you don't need, and review processes normally running in your Window 0S to see whether some can be disabled. 

What hard drive defragmenting?  How long since you've done that? I hate to say it, but you have a 10 year old machine that maxes out at 1GB of memory.  You have gotten your monies worth out of that machine.  Rather than buy a SSD drive I would put that money towards a new computer with lots more RAM, not to mention a faster processor, a bigger HD.  You can almost buy a new computer for not much more than the cost of a large SSD.

And get your files transferred before your old machine dies.SOYBEAN: Sorry, but that drive info was from my laptop! Why are my “Senior Moments” getting longer....Anyway, the primary drive on the tower is: 42.3 GB used and 32.1 free-should be plenty for XP to work in. There is probably so much crud in the registry and operating system in general that can't be removed and bogging down the system. That's why I plan to do a clean install of XP-I saw somewhere (Windows, Compaq, cnet.com) a program to specifically help format the drive and prepare it for new install, ensuring no little hidden “gotchas”.
TRUENORTH: Great suggestion of the USB external boot drive, I'll have to check my bootup options and see. A 120 GB 7,200 RPM internal drive was optional when I ordered this unit, but opted for the 80. I'm not hurting for storage space as I have automated backup to move to the secondary drive of the folders where I store important info, then periodically move that onto LightScribe DVDs. I just thought, since I'll be doing a fresh install, maybe try an SSD, which are more costly, or just go with a conventional 120 GB HDD which are probably dirt cheap nowdays. As you said, there are a multitude of options, just pondering my best bet. Perhaps I'll contact a distributor (Newegg, CDW, etc) see what is best bet.
I honestly don't use it near as much as I used to, wired directly to router, same with the OfficeJet which is setup to share on my network. Mostly used for graphics, scanning pictures, downloading video from camcorder and editing it.
RTHOMPSON80819: Yeah, I know it would be more cost effective to just buy a new system. Back in the '80s, I built XT/AT clones from scratch and it was much cheaper. But much simpler since there wasn't the complexity of current systems-wondering which hardware component will work with others and how to get the max out of it.
Many thanks to ya'll for your input, I appreciate you taking the time to reply to my issue.
Happy Trails,
SandisDad You mentioned CCleaner in your original post.  Did you use it's file cleanup utility, the registry cleaner, or both?  If you have not used its registry cleaner, I suggest you try it.  Some members of this forum are fervently opposed to ever using any registry cleaner and I understand their reasoning.  But, CCleaner if very safe and due to the background of your computer, as you've described it, and since you're thinking of formatting the hard drive and doing a fresh install of all software, why not try the registry cleaner - again, I'm assuming you have not done so - and see whether it makes any noticeable difference? Hi, I agree with  rthompson80819 . Your Compaq doesn't support sata and has limited IDE support from my research. So an SSD is not able to be installed (I know they have usb ones etc) but who wants an SSD running on USB 2.0. Also the 80gb hard drives should be replaced and if you intend to reload windows why not use the reload on a new machine 

Lisa
  Quote from: Lisa_maree on February 20, 2012, 05:37:11 PM

... the 80gb hard drives should be replaced ...

if you intend to reload windows why not use the reload on a new machine

Which LAPTOP had long lasts BATTERY?
After quickly googling 'Which laptop battery lasts LONGEST' i FOUND this -

http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-57340536-1/longest-battery-life-laptops-of-2011/sony?

L & G:

I've got a spare Pentium 4 and I would like to take advantage of it.

It was packed in a box with stickers at its side
In one of them you can read

Intel (R) Pentium (R) 4
Processor 631+
Supporting Hyper-Threading Technology
3 GHz
800 MHz FSB
2MB L2 Cache

In the other one you can read

Intel (R) Pentium (R) 4 Processor 631,
LGA775 Pkg, 3 GHz, 2MB L2 Cache, UP only
Requires electrically compatible BOARD - PCG06
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
PROD CODE: BX80552631SL9KG
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
MM #: 884875
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
FPO/BATCH #: 3708A044
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
EAN: 5 032037 006286
|||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
UPC:  7 35858 17992 8
VERSION #: D85895-002 1.3V max
PACK DATE: 04/18/07
Made in Costa Rica

The following symbols are engraved on the side of the processor that faces the fan:

INTEL (M) (C) ' 06
PENTIUM (R) 4
631 SL9KG COSTA RICA
3.00 GHZ / 2M / 800 / 06
3708A044 (84)

Those symbols that are between brackets should be read as if they were inside a small circle. The content of the last circle is so small and difficult to read that instead of an 8 it could contain a B or O or a 0 with a horizontal line dividing it in two equal parts.

It worked perfectly on a LGA775 socket of ATX (24,5 x 30,5 cms) motherboard with DDR2 800 / 667 / 533 SDRAM four slots, dual-channel (8 GB max)
It also worked on a LGA775 socket of a microATX (24,5 x 19 cms) motherboard which supported 2 unbuffered DIMM of 1,8 Volt dual-channel DDR2 400 / 533 / 667  (4 GB max).

I've failed in trying to find those same (new / out of the box) motherboards for this processor, and THOUGH I still haven't abandoned the search, my expectations to find them have decreased substantially.

All the LGA775 socket motherboards that  I have been offered  support DDR3 DIMMs.

I've  also failed in searching the web looking for an answer to this question:

Is my Pentium compatible with that sort of RAM?

Could you please answer this for me?

Thank you for your time.
The MBoard that supports that CPU will also be the determining factor on what style of RAM is supported...Thank you patio for your fast response.

But do you mean that if I find a motherboard that supports my P4 and also supports DDR3 RAM the compatibility between P4 and DDR3 can be considered established?

Thank you for your time!! No.
What i meant to state is whatever MBoard you find that supports that CPU will determine what RAM is supported by the MBoard chipset/layout itself...Since Intel processors do not have an onboard memory controller, it's down to the mainboard. So if the mainboard supports DDR3 and it supports the processor you want to have, it should in theory work.Most likely NOT the answer that you were hoping for =
HTTP://in.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20111212203401AACqhWt
truenorth  Thank you Patio, Raptor and truenorth
Sorry for the delay.
I was about to send Patio an Raptor the following message

Thank you both.
I have no DIFFICULTIES in understanding what Raptor has written.
If Patio can use this thread to agree with Raptor's statement my problem will be solved.
Please Patio, it's your call.

when I happened to read truenorths message which was quite disturbing.

So I postponed my message and visited truenorth's link which sincerely shocked me.

When I recovered, I spent all my free time searching the web, looking for other reliable sources that would/could support geek-in-training's point of view and the opposite point of view.

Unfortunately (and for the time being) I can only use the computer I described at another post and that entails some limitations.

Using it I have found strange things I'm planing to comment in my next post.

Best regards.

have a technika 8320 box which on PLAY back FREEZES and pixelates,so i exported a program to an uxb STICK and onto my COMPUTER,windows media player said it could not play as error C00D11B1 came up.it ALSO said it was .mp2 format.i burned to disc but my two dvd players said it was an unknown disc.i am trying to copy everything to disc so i can wipe the hard drive on the smart(or not so smart)box to see if this corrects the problem,ant ideas???http://www.fetchtv.net/FAQs/
http://www.fetchtv.net/FAQs/index.php?action=artikel&cat=42&id=64&artlang=en Try upgrading your Not-So-SmartBox to the latest Firmware Version.

First I hope I am posting this in the right place. Ok, my mom bought herself an external hard drive for the purpose of storing GB's of photos. Now I wasn't there when they hooked it up to her PC but my nephew tells me that he clicked on some options and it started doing it's thing for quite a while. Within a few days the PC started acting up an eventually failed to load Windows XP Home Edition. When I checked the external it had the same amount of used space as her hard drive did which leads me to believe that they INADVERTENTLY BACKED up the system to the external.

So a few days go by an my mom gets some so called "PC Tech" to look at it and he says that there's nothing on the external and that she had start from scratch with a new drive and OS. I think he's wrong since as I stated the external has used space equal to the old hard drive. Now why do I question this techs skills? I was told he OPENED up the PC and proceeded to clean out the dust with a vacuum CLEANER! Can you say "Holy ESD Batman?" So anyway what I would LIKE to know is is it possible to either access the info on the external or can I buy her a new hard drive and transfer the data from the external to the new drive and expect it to work like normal?

I have some experience working on PC's but this one is a bit advanced so I need some help. I appreciate all replies and all your help.  Well, what happens when you hook up the external to another comp? How do you know that some of the space is used on the drive?Well when I hook it up to my PC it sees the external and when I right-click and choose properties the contents are equal to the old drive. Matter of fact I was looking at it last night and you CAN access the info and that's obviously a good thing but what I would like to do is to restore the info back to a clean drive, if possible, so that it will be as it was before.I don't know exactly what is contained in the backup (whether it's just personal files or program files as well). If it's just personal files, then just let the PC Tech do his thing and reinstall the OS and then copy the contents of the external back to the comp. Or you could ask him to mirror the contents of the external back onto your comp, but you said the system was having problems booting up windows at that point, so there is no guarantee it will work. So if I were you, first ask the tech to try mirroring the drive and if that doesn't work, then do a clean install and copy the personal files back.Ok thank you Linux711 that would solve that but now what about the original hard drive? Remember I said that it started acting up AFTER the possible backup. I thought about perhaps trying Spotmau and see if that would work to get the drive going again. What do you think? And hey thank you very much for all of your input!

I have a Black Widow 9636 HiRes scanner (a rebadged Artec AT12) which operates via a special SCSI card (DTC328X, which doesn't support daisy-chaining) in a ISA slot under Windows 95.

It's working perfectly, but I want to move it to a newER (but not new) computer which only has PCI slots and runs under Windows XP.  I know I'm going to have a lot of problems, and most people will say I should get a new scanner, but I want to TAKE it one step at a time until either it works or I can go no further.

I got a used SCSI card for a PCI slot, an Adaptec 19160/29160N. It seems to have installed perfectly in the target computer, using XP's drivers.  I next got a 2m cable and connected the scanner to the card, but the scanner is not detected (either by XP device manager or even by the Adaptec card).  The scanner has its SCSI ID set to 5 and I left it at that.  The Adaptec SOFTWARE says "no device" at ID 5.  The only thing I tried changing in the Adaptec software was to switch off "INITIATE Wide Negotiation" for ID 5, but still "no device", though it now additionally says "insufficient termination".

So my question is (probably the first of many): how do I make the Adaptec card see the scanner?

A few other things:
• I read somewhere that Artec say that the AT12 scanners do not work with Ultra SCSI.  This Adaptec card is Ultra/Fast, but claims to be "backwards compatible with previous generations of SCSI products"
• I have no SCSI terminator. I don't need one on the old computer and I thought that the scanner had some kind of "built-in termination" but I can't see now where I got that idea.
• I haven't yet tried to install a scanner driver on the target computer, but I thought the hardware should be detected even without a driver.  Is that not so?

Thanks for any insights.The card may be DOA...