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I have a Acer Aspire x1700 thats running windows 7 home prem and the DVD burner on it went bad. I have tried reinstalling the drivers and nothing but it just keeps making a gringing noise and WONT open. computer doesn't recognize it as being available. So I was going to REPLACE it with a Lite On 24x DVD / Cd burner and wanted to know if that would be compatible with my desktop or should I use something else? THANK you.Hello Hamiltonam,

Your computer has SATA connections for Hard Drives and Optical Drives. As long as that Lite On 24x DVD/CD burner uses SATA to connect, it will work. Here is one great deal on newegg for an optical drive, I own one of these and it works just great. It's cheap and it ALSO has almost 3,000 RATINGS with an average of 5/5. Check it out here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204

for some REASON both of the shift keys on my laptop are not working. sticky keys is not on and i have no IDEA what is wrong. can someone please help me. i WOULD have put a question mark but i CANT. haha.Computer model==Operating system of computer? truenorth

I just finished building and putting together my computer, i ran into many obstacles but i got through them then now here i am, stuck on this error that says:
------
"Reboot and Select proper Boot device
or Insert Boot MEDIA in selected Boot device and press a key"
------
when i turn on my computer, preparing to re-download Windows XP 32BIT on my old Sa300gb HDD. I confirmed in the BIOS that my HDD was recognized, but i don't see my CD/DVD drive on the boot sequence list..

Here are some info that might help?
Motherboard: Asus P8P67-M PRO
CPU: Intel core i5-2500k LGA1155 PROCESSOR

and both my Harddrives and CD drives use SATA cables to connect to the motherboard

So any ideas? Hi Magicflier

That error means that your computer's BIOS can't find any drive which contains bootable media.

I would suggest plugging your optical drive into a different SATA port on your motherboard then check to see if the BIOS recognizes it. If this doesn't work then try using a different power connector and SATA cable. If none of this works at least we will KNOW that its not a bad SATA port or cable that is causing the problem.
Actually a bad port seems to be the case so thank you for the help!

Having a problem with our second desktop computer. The CD-RW drive reads files/folders, but it no longer writes to disk. Says disk is full, but it isn't. We've tried different types of blank disks. No luck. It does copy burned music files to disk most of the time, but sometimes it doesn't, but the biggest problem is it won't copy files/folders of pictures or documents any longer. It seems to get confused when we switch from CD-RW disks to CD-R disks. It thinks it's still reading a CD-RW when it's not. Does it need drivers or need replacing? I do have a spare drive and have tried INSTALLING it, but was unable to get it to work. Where I bought it, they just said, hook it up and it should work. It's not that easy. What needs to be done to get a new OPTICAL drive to work? I believe it came with an INSTALLATION CD, but if the new drive won't work, how can I run the disk? What can I do? What is the make and model of the spare drive? You can usually download drivers from the manufacturer's site.

If an optical drive constantly malfunctions, chances are it is at the end of its lifetime... Quote from: Transfusion on FEBRUARY 26, 2012, 03:14:59 AM

...
If an optical drive constantly malfunctions, chances are it is at the end of its lifetime...

Hello: When I open my Sony laptop, I get a smart warning. It SAYS that failure is imminent, back up hard drives, but it doesn't say more than that. The system specs I can find are: Intel core 2duo CPU p8600  Installed memory 3GB 2.87 GB usable,  Windows 7 service pack 1, disk Toshiba Mk3252 GSX.

  Can this computer be saved? Is there anything we can do to fix whatever problem may exist?

Thank you.

Dr.DA SMART error is related to the hard drive's self-testing mechanism, which has DETECTED that the hard drive isn't reliable anymore.
Try troubleshooting and repairing errors in your hard drive with this tool:
HTTP://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk and after that, immediately back up your hard drive by removing it from your laptop, plugging it into a working computer with this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817392032 and then create an image of your hard drive with http://downloadsquad.switched.com/2008/09/05/5-free-apps-to-clone-your-hard-drive/
You can then REPLACE your hard drive with a new one and still have all your data intact.

I have split a 500gb HDD in to two partions one for my steam games (X) and the other for the OS and other stuff, (C) after reformatting my HARD drive the games partions was labled as x but the partion with WINDOWS on is labled as d  is there any way i can change this back  to C

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]Did you say Windows XP?
Why is this important to you?

This is documented in the Microsoft KB, but it only applies to a case where you really need to change then drive letter. That is often when you have more hat one instance of the same OS on one drive and the second instance was made by a disk clone thing. Inn other words, it wants to be the C: drive.

It is done by edits to the registry. Are you willing to edit the registry? Unless there is a real problem, better to just leave it alone.Nope im not using xp I'im using win 7 ultimate 64 bit the reason why i want to change the drive letter is my nvidia card up date will not install because its not set to c Right. Somehow I thought only XP did that sort of thing.
Here is some specific information you need to read over:
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/223188
Normally the boot drive and the system drive are the same and should be set to C: in Windows 7. But it can work even if it is not set as C:. In  your case there is no C:, so logically you want the system drive to be C because that is what most programs expect.

EDIT: More links
http://www.sevenforums.com/backup-restore/150042-how-restore-boot-drive-letter-windows-7-a.html

http://www.windowsitpro.com/article/windows-client/changing-the-windows-system-drive-letter

These are considered (By me) to be preferable to some of the other explanations I have seen. Le me know if these do or do not work for you.

ok, i have a laptop, and i found a great solution for my slow gpu rendering times (which would be the vidock). now my question is: are there any video cards that are powerful and can go back into my LAPTOPS internal display so i dont have to use an external monitor? i want this to be as portable as i can get it. iv HEARD of something called optimus technology in some nvidia cards that could do that but i am not sure :/ im confused, can someone please help me?To my knowledge, most laptops have no provision for removing the GPU. The only pratical possibility is a few laptops that use a mini PCI card for video. And those a rare a new GPU pricy and so-so performance.

But if you are motivated, here is an article that was published a while back. It was done with the premiss that nothing is impossible.
Upgrading Your Laptop's Graphics Card
Like they say, it is not a walk in the park.
You may be looking for this:
http://www.notebookreview.com/default.asp?newsID=5846&review=how+to+upgrade+laptop+graphics+notebook
What is the make and model of your laptop? If you have an ExpressCard slot you can use the ViDock.

Optimus has nothing to do with the problem at hand: http://www.nvidia.com/object/optimus_technology.html
Quote

NVIDIA® Optimus™ technology intelligently optimizes your notebook PC, providing the OUTSTANDING graphics performance you need, when you need it, all the while extending battery life for longer enjoyment.

The desktop video card outputs to it's HDMI/VGA/DVI connector. The notebook's LCD display uses a LVDS input on your systemboard with no external jack to connect to it. Meaning then they cannot be physically connected together unless adapt a US$30 ebay kits allowing external input to the internal LCD as discussed, which only quite an advanced user would ever attempt.

Another more elegant solution would use a HDMI input expresscard as described at Play PS3/X360 on laptop screen using new HDMI Input Express Card. . Though current COSTS of $170 for the item makes it unattractive AND you'd need to then do a mPCIe eGPU implementation.

There are however these less drastic ways of getting your accelerated graphics card to render to the internal LCD, all of which will have lower performance than when running using an external LCD:
NVIDIA Optimus driver provides a transparent internal LCD cloning mode for systems with a 4500MHD/HD/HD3000 iGPU primary video when using a NVIDIA GTS4xx/GTX4xx card.

Use Lucidlogix virtu drivers to provide transparent output using the internal LCD if you have a Sandy Bridge cpu. (timohour)

Ultramon/Chung Gun method can clone from the desktop eGPU's window to the internal LCD for windowed games/apps.

USB 3.0 framegrabbers have sufficient bandwidth to capture the image from the desktop eGPU and pipe it back to your notebook's display.
It is not feasible to use USB 2.0 framegrabbers. The desktop video card outputs HDMI/S-Video. To try to clone the output from the desktop video card via a USB frame grabber can be done, but consider say 1280x800x32-bit = 4MB per image. If gaming at 30FPS that's 120MB/s bandwidth required. USB 2.0 is 480Mbps (60MB/s in *best case* scenario.. more like 30MB/s in real-life).

I have a new question to ask.  What I need to know is, is this a good idea?  My newest computer has four PCI-E slots, the top two taken up by my NVidia GeForce GTX 560 Ti, and I want to have Geek Squad at Best Buy install a Creative Labs Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium PCI-E card into the bottommost SLOT.  Would the fan of the graphics card get sufficient space so that the card would not OVERHEAT?  Would leaving the cover of the slot second from bottom help any?By now you'd figure that with all the projects you've been running you'd at least know how to install a soundcard yourself.

You should install it as far away from the videocard as possible. The LESS you obstruct your videocard fan, the better the airflow. What you are saying is true.  However, if I want to have the card installed, we're having Geek Squad do it.  Why?  Card installation is covered by their warranty.  NEXT Monday I'll find out from them if it is feasible. Quote from: Ryan on February 27, 2012, 04:10:57 PM

What you are saying is true.  However, if I want to have the card installed, we're having Geek Squad do it.  Why?  Card installation is covered by their warranty.  Next Monday I'll find out from them if it is feasible.

I am trying to get an old donated E-machines going again and I find that I  cannot load WINDOWS without it showing that there are 4 extra drives . I get this message when windows setup is asking whitch drive to install to.
If I let windows install , it labels my C drive as H, and shows 4 removable drives.
I have pulled all the memory out of this computer and replaced it with different memory.
I have tryed two different hard drives.
I have removed the CMOS jumper to clear it, even removed the BATTERY .
I BUILD, repair and upgrade computers then give them to school kids who do not have computer access at home, and have been doing this for several years,so I thought I had about seen it all --- BUT-- I am calling for HELP on this one!You need to disconnect the card reader before installing Windows.    Raptor--- Thanks--- just goes to show , you CAN teach an old dog new tricks

Hi everyone !

   Sometimes the LCD of an old Dell Insprion E1505 I have goes dark.
If I turn off the room light, I can see the Windows Desktop, and my mouse moving, and the Start menu pop up, if I click on it, but the screen is really dark.
But sometimes, the screen works GREAT!

After all the research I did... Everyone says that the only way to fix it, is to replace the whole LCD screen.
The LCD screen has a backlight, and an inverter on the bottom (from what I found)
And it could be either one of them that is not working properly

And replacing the inverter, can solve the problem for only few months before the backlight stops also...
I understand that.

But it's an old laptop, and I LOVE replacing parts on computers... So even if it breaks, it's alright. So, I don't want to go with the easy way (and most effective) and replace the LCD.

From your experience or what you know... What should I replace?
Backlight? or inverter? or something else?

Which one gives me better chances to solve my problem?
The inverter is easier to replace, than the backlight, because some people said that to replace the backlight, I need a CLEAN room (which I don't have)

Thank you for your help!
I cannot advise you from experience but i will try to help you arrive a your best solution.If your primary interest is gaining experience on the repair aspect (and longevity of the repair is not a determining criteria). Then do the inverter (because the criteria for the "backlight you do not have). If on the other hand your primary objective is return the computer to full function for as long as possible,then replace the complete screen (that too will be a learning experience if you have never done it). It sounds like you are prepared to spend some of your money to achieve "something". Therefore for me your 1st decision is what is my real objective. Then you owe it to yourself to get the most bang for your buck. If you do decide to go for a screen replacement there are alternative options to "new" truenorth Quote from: nasroo7 on FEBRUARY 16, 2012, 09:22:12 AM

some people said that to replace the backlight, I need a CLEAN room

It sounds like you are prepared to spend some of your money to achieve "something"

It doesn't need to be an industrial "clean room".
Well...i wouldn't do it in the attic or basement...

Then do the inverter

(because the criteria for the "backlight you do not have)

Especially Lasagna....

The level of cleanliness should be about as high as in a kitchen when you are preparing food.

Sounds like you have made a good decision given your desire to "learn" how to do things without spending a lot of money. What i meant by "(because the criteria for the "backlight you do not have)" was i relation to this" the backlight, because some people said that to replace the backlight, I need a CLEAN room (which I don't have)". Given that other very experienced and trustworthy members have come forward and given their statements re that limitation and proffered the observation that the level of environmental restrictions are NOT that demanding it would seem with precautions you could try it.Good luck with the repair and come back and tell us how it went.truenorth

Hi, I've just joined so bare with me. I have a computer with and AMD phenom 9650 processor and a GA M720-US3 motherboard. The rest is standard fare (hard drive, memory, etc) Lately, the processor fan had been problematic; when booting up it would start, stop and then a few seconds later it would twirl. The the computer would start up. Then, yesterday, the computer was not booting up at all, and the reason may be because the processor fan was not working, though the computer internal case fan was. The DVD just KEEPS blinking, and in the end I turned off at the mains.
I bought a new computer fan and fitted it and exactly the same thing occured as the previous fan, so it was not the fan (I think!) Does anybody have any ideas how to deal with this situation and to find out where the fault is? It could be in the processor, the motherboard or the memory, but how does one check? There is no, nor has there ever been any beeping from the motherboard to check on the stage that the failure takes place.
Has anybody ever experienced this sort of thing before and how did they deal with it? I don'w want to GO buying new equipment (memory, motherboard (apparently, they don't have this motherboard anymore) only to find it was not the problem. Quote

Hi, I've just joined so bare with me

The DVD just keeps blinking, and in the end I turned off at the mains.

the computer was not booting up at all

fitted it and exactly the same thing occured as the previous fan, so it was not the fan

Windows 7 has a driver for this printer but it is a very limited version. It doesn't include the duplex print FEATURE among other things. HP had a full featured driver but doesn't offer one for windows 7. Does anyone know if there is a full featured driver for this printer avaiable from a third party perhaps?

Thanks, Jim B.Urgh... its always frustrating when you find your old trusty peripheral doesn't have driver support for the latest operating system...
http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Document.jsp?&objectID=c02536257#A4
Quote

Products for which the In-OS is the best or only driver option...HP LaserJet 1100 and 1200 Printer series...

HP is committed to providing the best experience for HP products in the Windows Vista operating environment.
You can conveniently find this driver in your Windows Vista operating system, TODAY.

When I open up my home page and there is a video to watch on it, the video is sorta blacked out or it is not seeable. If I move the page up and down I get to see it for a brief moment and then it is gone again. If I can get it to open in full screen I have no problems seeing the video. What can I do to see a video without having to PULL it into the full screen? This also happens when I get on youtube also. Sometimes I can't find the button to go to full screen. Any ideas? I am a teacher and need to LOOK at many videos before saving them for my students to watch.

Thank you for all your HELP. Quote

Any ideas? I am a teacher and need to look at many videos before saving them for my students to watch.

I'm trying to transfer my internal Maxator 200gb from my Dell Dimension 8100 running WINDOWS XP Pro to a HP pavilion a000 running Windows XP Home desktop. When i connect the hard drive up i keep getting this error "We apologize for the inconvenience, but Windows did not start successfully. A recent hardware or software change might have caused this.

If your computer stopped responding, restarted unexpectedly, or was automatically shut down to protect your files and folders, choose Last Known Good Configuration to revert to the most recent settings that worked.

If a previous startup attempt was interrupted due to a power failure or because the Power or Reset button was pressed, or if you aren't sure what caused the problem, choose Start Windows
Normally.

Safe Mode
Safe Mode with Networking
Safe Mode with Command Prompt

Last Known Good Configuration (your most recent settings that worked) Start Windows Normally

Use the up and down arrow keys to MOVE the highlight to your choice."

I've tried all the above options but it keeps rebooting and the same error comes up I've tried changing all the jumper settings at the back of the HD but still no luck. I saw on another page online that doing a repair install might solve the problem.  I already have two repair installs done over the past few months and don't fancy having to do another one. Is there any other solution to this problem?You're trying to move a hard drive from one system to another?

Reinstall Windows.You cannot TAKE a hd with Windows installed from one system, put it in another, and expect it to boot. Aside from violating the EULA, it simply won't work because Windows makes note of the hardware in the system in which it is installed during the installation process. If there are significant changes to that hardware, the system will not boot.I wasn't aware of that at all. So the only way i can use my Maxator HD on the other PC is to back up everything onto an external HD, put in my Maxator HD into the HP pavilion and format and reinstall Windows?If you want to use it as the PRIMARY HD, then you need to reinstall the OS. In some cases a Repair Install will work (but we are then in a grey area re the EULA). You can, however, use it as a secondary drive in the new computer by taking ownership of the files in the original XP install. If you need assistance with any of this just ASK and we'll walk you through it.

Hey all,

About 3 weeks ago I started having intermittent issues with my display.
It's a Samsung 2033SWPLUS and about 2 1/2 years old.

First, the screen resolution would suddenly change and I'd have to go into to control panel to change it back. That lasted for a couple of weeks.

Now, for the last week the screen keeps flickering to black.
It only lasts 1 or 2 seconds and when it comes back the windows are no longer FULL screen.
If I happen to be watching a video when it flickers, it freezes and comes back with a 2 inch black stripe up the left hand side.
Now I'm stumped.
Does anyone know if this is something I can fix or am I going to be up for a new MONITOR ?.

Thanks & Regards,

Personal Info removed...
It's never a good idea to do that on a public Forum.Can you try the monitor on another COMPUTER to help determine if it is the monitor or something else (LIKE your video card) on the computer?truenorthI agree with truenorth, try another monitor before anything else. Quote

It only lasts 1 or 2 seconds and when it comes back the windows are no longer full screen.

Hey guys i want to build a pretty good fast computer and my budget range is around 1500$~1700$  and i need an honest opinion on the parts that i have SELECTED for to build this computer.

Gameing Case: Antec v3 1200 Full ATX Gameing Case.
MoBo: Asus CROSSHAIR Formula V MoBo
Processor: AMD Fx 8150 8 Core- 3.8Ghz- 4.1 Ghz Unlocked Speed
Ram: 2X8GB Sticks of Vengence Ram ( Red Colour) ( DDR3)
HDD:1 TB WD Sata III  Drive
Graphics Card: AMD 6850 radon Graphic Cards
Psu: 850 cp
HS&F: Zalman CNPS 12X triple bladed Fan
Mouse: USB Mini Optic mouse
Keyboard: USB Saitek PK24 Eclipse III Wired Keyboard
Misc: Orange and Blue flexible Cold Cathodes to go on inside of computer case
OS: Win 7 Ultimate


This is gonna be a pretty expensive computer .... idk if i will even find 1 part in stores :S
but i would like a good opinion on it , if anyone has anything else in mind that could be a bit better please let me know , if my selection is not comapatible i would also love to know..  thx .. uPB..... I keep telling people to just hold on on the Bulldozers until a price drop is announced if they want to build a gaming computer, because its architecture isn't optimized for single-threaded applications... furthermore modern games are more dependent on the GPU than the CPU...
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4955/the-bulldozer-review-amd-fx8150-tested/8 
http://www.techspot.com/review/452-amd-bulldozer-fx-cpus/page10.html 
The i5-2500K and i7-2600K are basically the juggernauts here. They have been since they were released, in fact. No actually the Nehalem processors still outrun the 2600K (i7 980X, 990X, 995X), but their power efficiency is just... bad, and LGA 1366 is a dead end in terms of upgrading.

The XHair Formula V runs at $229: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131735
The FX-8150 is $249.99: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103960

EVGA Z68 FTW 160-SB-E689-KR LGA 1155 Intel Z68 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Extended ATX Intel Motherboard is $244.99
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813188098
Same features as your Crosshair Formula V.

i5-2550K ($239.99)
http://cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=Intel+Core+i5-2550K+%40+3.40GHz
Best price/performance today, yesterday I checked it was still the 2500K
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115230&Tpk=i5%202550K 

Hi, I'm building my own PC. A 3GB DDR3 NVIDIA GEFORCE GT 545 [DVI, HDMI, VGA] with a 600W Power supply should work fine right? Because I know the higher GPU you have the higher wattage you need.

Thanks..http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

Hi  to everyone,

My 4 yr. old computer monitor just starting having this problem.  When I start my computer, the monitor will briefly come on and then go to a black screen.  I have to push on/off the monitor power  button 4-5 times before the monitor will stay on, each time it goes to a black screen.  Is this anything that can be fixed?  Does this probably mean the monitor is about to die?  Once after 4-5 attempts at turning it on, it stays on and everything looks good and works fine.  What is the average life span for a monitor used for home use.  I have checked all cables, connections and everything is plugged in and tight. Is the on/off power button starting to wear out?

Thanks,
beachguy
Sorry, forgot some of the basics.  Computer is only 7 months old, OS-  Windows 7 Home Premium, and as mentioned, the monitor is 4 YRS old. Reading over some of the similar posts on this kind of problem, I read that some people want to know if the graphics card has gone bad and that Windows 7 will display a message if that has happened.  I have not gotten any message like that.  I am assuming that is not the problem on a new computer.
Thanks again,
beachguyJust try the monitor on another computer.  If you get the same issues...it's a monitor problem and probably not the video card on the computer.  However...it could be a cabling issue.  Try checking the cables to see if they are loose, frayed, or have bad connections.

By the way...is this a Flat Panel, or CRT monitor?It is a flat panel and all cables/wires are connected and tight.Did you test it on another PC?I will have to try that when I can get to another desktop, which we don't have.  I am wondering, is there any kind of program that I could download that could run a test on the overall functioning of a monitor to determine if its components are all working correctly or would point to areas that are starting to fail on the monitor.  Or, is it pretty much accepted that once things start to act up on 4 yr. monitor, it is just time for a replacement?Like all hardware...over time, they just give out.  I've had monitors that have LASTED quite some time.  It depends on the manufacturer, stress and the environment the monitor is subjected to.

Take a look here:  PassMark Monitor Testing software

You can trial that software free...for 30 days.I don't like to leave things just hanging.  The monitor got worse, it now took up to pushing the monitor on/off button  ten times before it would stay on.  The monitor would try to come on and instantly go to a black screen.  Google searches showed that the most likely problem on this LCD monitor was the backlight and/or the inverter starting to fail and in this case getting worse day by day.  There were videos showing how to take the monitor apart, replace the parts after ordering them and waiting for them to come in.  I decided not to go that route. I bought a new LED monitor and the problem is gone.  I am surprised that no one on this site even mentioned backlight and/or inverter problems could cause this  problem.  Many of the Google suggestions indicated that this type of repair can be done, but the time it TAKES and the expense involved probably doesn't make it worthwhile for most people. It is just as worth it to replace the failing monitor.  Hope this helps anyone else who has a monitor that is not working properly and starting to fail.

beachguyGranted...inverters and/or backlights go bad and are replaceable...and as you said...you Googled your issue and got a possible answer to your issue.

Oh...we can say..."It's probably this...and probably that"....but, that's just guesswork.  Your last post requested software...and that's what I supplied you....yet, you waited a week for a reply.

I'm glad you have a new monitor....hopefully, it gives you many years of enjoyment.

I have a one TB eSata backup drive attached to my PC, If I turn on the POWER to the drive before starting the COMPUTER the computer tries to boot from this drive, I can't even go to the bios to make changes. If I shut off the power to the external drive I can access the bios and the external drive is not even on the list.  It would seem that the external drive, when it is powered on, over rides the settings in the bios and wants to boot the PC.   I suspect it has something to do with my backup software, Acronis, which has a feature that requires you press F11 to boot in an EMERGENCY, although I have tried with this feature disabled and still it wants to boot the PC.   When the power to the eSata drive is left off until after booting and Windows XP Pro is loaded all works fine, I turn the power on and the drive appears in My Computer, the backup are updated etc.


Any ideas?

God bless
JimFor normal operation:
1 turn on Desktop first
2 Turn on External later
Run windows as usual.

For panic recovery:
1. turn on External first
2. turn on PC next
Let the recovery software restore your system.

Was that hard? Quote from: Geek-9pm on February 29, 2012, 08:57:37 PM

For normal operation:
1 turn on Desktop first
2 Turn on External later
Run windows as usual.

For panic recovery:
1. turn on External first
2. turn on PC next
Let the recovery software restore your system.

Was that hard?

I would like to transfer files from a SEAGATE Momentus 5400.4 HARD drive (pulled out of a BROKEN HP notebook) to my new Macbook Pro.

Is this possible?

If so, what cable/connector should I buy?

Another, less desirable, possibility for my file transfer is to transfer files from the hard drive to an OLD HP Pavilion 753n desktop and then get them onto my Macbook through my home network.  If the HP to Mac transfer isn't possible, what COULD I use to do that transfer instead?

Thanks!Can't you just put it inside a PATA or SATA to USB converter box?

Hello, my location is southern sweden, more specificly next to malmö. I am looking to buy hardware for my pc but I am not sure about what my motherboard can handle. So I will post my systems specification as good as possible. Everything about the moddle is original. The budget is 4000kr, that being about 400euro.
Im looking to upgrade my computers performance so it's to handle the newest games with ease.
The modell is Aspire M5201 and as stated everythings original. It's running on Windows Vista Home premium 6.0.6001 Service Pack build 6001.
Processor : AMD Phenom(tm) 9550 Quad-Core Processor, 220Mhz. Your Phenom 9550 uses an AM2+ socket, which is compatible with AM3 processors.
(http://www.teamliquid.net/forum/viewmessage.php?topic_id=223583) This person installed a Phenom II X4 965 into the same computer as yours with the latest BIOS, so there shouldn't be a problem.

Here are some Phenom II X4 CPUs: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&N=100006676&isNodeId=1&Description=phenom+II+X4&x=0&y=0 the cheapest one, the 960T, is 826 Kronor(through google currency conversion; I have heard that Sweden has one of the largest taxes in the world in terms of buying online from other countries...)
The Phenom II X4 965 has the best price/performance ratio now: http://cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+Phenom+II+X4+965

Along with UPGRADING the CPU, upgrading to a better Graphics card is also important as many modern games are heavily GPU-dependent. Your motherboard has a PCI-E 2.0 x16 slot. That is good. (http://support.acer.com/acerpanam/desktop/0000/Acer/AspireM5201/AspireM5201sp2.shtml)
I would suggest upgrading to a Radeon HD 6850: http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&N=100006676&isNodeId=1&Description=HD+6850&x=0&y=0 Cheapest one is 926 Kronor, made by HIS.

http://videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=Radeon+HD+6850
Its still in the top 20, so it will provide a good measure of future proofing, and has the best price/performance ratio as of now.

You will need to upgrade your power supply too; AMD recommends at least 500W, so lets get a 600W one in case you plan to upgrade again in the future.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139028 
CORSAIR Builder Series CX600 V2 600W Power supply. 463 Kronor.

463+826+926=2215 Kronor.

If you want to upgrade further...

You can upgrade to a CrossFire-enabled motherboard which will ALLOW you to run 2 graphics cards on one system.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&N=100006664&isNodeId=1&Description=990fx+motherboard&x=0&y=0
990FX motherboards are the top of the line for AM3 systems.
The cheapest one is 860 Kronor, made by ASRock.

So we will get another 6850 to add into your system, which is 926.

860+926+926+826+463 = 4001 Kronor.  That was some really great help. Thanks alot! I'll definetly buy it in the next days. But I will hold back on the extras incase the taxes should get me over the limit on the budget.
Again that was some really brilliant bro tips. You are good and you should feel good  !Okay so turns out I cant order from newegg SINCE they dont do international shipments.. I just checked http://www.tigerdirect.com and they do ship to Sweden.Though I cant find any of  the hardware availible to actually purshase that you recommended me Why don't you just order from a local store? If you have to pay SHIPPING tax, it could be huge on hardware... Just got back from the store. They'll have a set ready within the budget to upgrade my pc in a few days, also I bought a razor mouse, a ps3, a headset and a new tv :333What are the specs of the upgrade? Have fun with your new PS3 Decided to just go with the graphic card, cam, a coupple of ps3 games and weed n' munchies of c

I want to install some of my programs to ANOTHER hard drive because of lack of space, but I have a question about backing up. I use a backup program called Acronis, which I use to make a copy of my OS hard-drive. I am wondering if i back up as i normally do and place programs on a second drive, if i will have problems if say the programs I install corrupt in some way? What I mean is do programs normally corrupt in the registry, or can they corrupt anywhere? I don't want to  have to make a backup of my second HD if i don't need to, I would prefer to save space.I don't understand the question. You will need to create images of each hard drive with True Image if you want everything "backed up". Quote from: Allan on February 29, 2012, 01:48:51 PM

I don't understand the question. You will need to create images of each hard drive with True Image if you want everything "backed up".

There no such thing as "when a program corrupts".  I honestly don't know what you're asking - programs do not normally "corrupt".

So why do some programs stop working then? What causes that?

So yeah, programs do "corrupt" and I'm not sure why Allan says they don't.

Possibly because Allan is fluent in English and understands the difference between "corrupting" and "becoming corrupted". He is correct in stating that programs do not corrupt themselves.

Lately my computer has begun this annoying routine that about one in ten times I put my computer into sleep mode it doesn't really fall asleep.  The MONITORS shut off but the machine is still humming and the power light remains on and will not eventually shut off, it once did it for a whole weekend before I NOTICED.  I can't get the computer to respond to anything at this point so in order for me to run the machine again I have to do a hard shut off by holding the power button for five seconds and rebooting the PC.  Does anybody have any idea what MAY be causing this? I posted this in the HARDWARE section but I'm not SURE at all what is causing it.  I would certainly like to get this resolved before these hard reboots affect my machine.  I think it could be your power setting in the BIOS. When booting your comp enter into the BIOS (if you don't know how google will tell you). Look for something like "Power Settings", "Sleep Mode", or "ACPI" (it is different depending on what comp you have) and change the setting to S3.

See this article for more info: http://gsmblog.com/post/Difference-between-S1-%28POS%29-and-S3-%28STR%29-standby-mode-in-BIOS.aspxThanks!  I'll give it a try and report back if I haven't noticed anything for a while.

I have a HP Pavilion ze4300 laptop.  Everything was working normal and then one day I turned on the laptop and the computer keeps going straight into the system setup.  Once that screen opens I can't do anything, the KEYBOARD doesn't work.  I plugged in a PS/2 keyboard and turn the computer back on, and it BOOTS into Windows like it should.  I ordered a new keyboard for the laptop and when it came in, I installed it with the same results, booting straight into system setup and keyboard not working.  However, now, if I plug in an external keyboard, it only works about half the time now.  Does it sound like a bad motherboard or another issue?No, it is the ribbon connector.New keyboard came with new ribbon CABLE. Ps/2 keyboard doesn't use ribbon cable. Quote

Does it sound like a bad motherboard or another issue?

Hi,

I am looking for an antibacterial solution to use with some kind of cloth to clean and remove germs from my MOUSE.

I have been getting tiny clear liquid FILLED bubbles on parts of my right had that have come in contact with the mouse I use both at home and at work so I think I may be picking something bad up from the mouse.

Can anyone recommend a product or alternative?

MurrayYou can make a home made mix of Alcohol and water to duplicate the effectiveness of most hand sanitizers.

A mixture of equal parts of Alcohol and water are recommended. The other ingredients i n hand sanitizers are not proven to be more effective is killing microbes.

This can be a polemic topic. Some have very strong opinions about personal HYGIENE and the use of hand sanitizers.

If it really matters, like in an environment where there are extreme concerns **,  you must use a method know to eliminate microbial ACTIVITY. Namely, a dry oven used to sterilize surgical equipment and available from medical supplies stores. After removing mouse and keyboard from the oven, wait for ONE hour before putting power to the devices.

** The burn care unit in some hospitals.
Quote from: bigbadmur on February 29, 2012, 04:51:06 PM

Hi,

I am looking for an antibacterial solution to use with some kind of cloth to clean and remove germs from my mouse.

I have been getting tiny clear liquid filled bubbles on parts of my right had that have come in contact with the mouse I use both at home and at work so I think I may be picking something bad up from the mouse.

Can anyone recommend a product or alternative?

Murray

I’m currently looking to buy myself a new laptop, as my old one (a dell xps 1530) has pretty much given up the ghost. I’ve got a total budget of about £650, but that needs to include a reasonable warranty.

I’m not looking for a world beater at all. I don’t use my laptop for anything particularly consuming – the biggest things for me are that I can watch films on it, that it runs smoothly even when I have a lot up on it etc. I don’t use it for games other than FOOTBALL manager, so a graphics card that runs powerful games isn’t at all necessary. A good battery life is a must.

I’d like either a lightweight 15’ laptop, or if not then a 13’. I love the bigger screen of my current one, but it’s unbelievably heavy (I have an extended battery thing as well) so something lighter weight would be wonderful.

I confess entirely that I know very little about laptops, and so have been looking at PC world’s red hot offers this week, going by the idea that the laptops that used to be EXPENSIVE and have now come down in price are probably the best. On that basis, I’ve come up with things like:

http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/asus-a54c-sx159s-15-6-laptop-11955942-pdt.html

and

http://www.pcworld.co.uk/gbuk/hp-pavilion-g6-1390ea-15-6-laptop-red-11884792-pdt.html

Any suggestions, either about the laptops above or other good offers, are hugely welcome. Thanks in advance!!
Don't get anything with a Celeron processor. They're cheap for a reason.
You'll want a minimum of 4GB of RAM. Don't buy Acer or Samsung.

That's all the advice I have to give you. You can't really go wrong with laptops nowadays, they all pretty much do the same. I'd recommend HP, Dell or Asus but you're already familiar with all those brands.

Hello,
I recently acquired a Motherboard with a problem.
(the mobo is a MSI 890fxa-gd70)
 The Clock/calendar does not operate and changes made in the BIOS will not save.
 I replaced the battery, reset BIOS and tested battery socket and determined that battery-voltage is getting to BIOS chip.
 I can not find any bad solder connections at IC.
 The Mobo jumper is in proper location.
It's an intermittent problem, with about 1 out of 10 bootups loading BIOS normally,
 I was wondering if you knew of anything else that could cause this problem?
Thanks,See if you can locate a replacement EEPROM for it...it's probably soldered in...
Also try another CMOS battery...had 1 off the shelf DOA last month...and i almost wrote the board off as bad.Thanks for the reply.
As I said, I have already replaced the battery
and I have located a replacement BIOS chip that I could order,
but I was hopeing to find an easier FIX suggestion, than replacing the chip,   
since that may not be the intermittent cause of the problem.

Those small soldered chips are very difficult to replace without damaging something. 
Diagnose your BIOS ROM with PC Check: http://www.eurosoft-uk.com/pccheck.html Quote

As I said, I have already replaced the battery

Also try another CMOS battery...had 1 off the shelf DOA last month...and i almost wrote the board off as bad.

Diagnose your BIOS ROM with PC Check: http://www.eurosoft-uk.com/pccheck.html

Thanks, but It appears that this and all other diagnostic programs do Not test the 'Save' ability of the BIOS. 
(which is where the problem is)
Most only determine if the IC is there and collect the type/version data about it.

Also try another CMOS battery...had 1 off the shelf DOA last month...and i almost wrote the board off as bad.

My version of PC Check checks the ROM for defects if I recall properly. I haven't used it in a while.

Is there a trial-version that can be downloaded, so I can 'check it out' ?

I don't think they do trials. I think that if you are creative, you can find the software and "trial" it. 

how can i remove the heat sink with my hands onlyGoogle for videos on how to remove the heat sink. A search result is waiting for you.yea but you need a screw DRIVER but thanksYou don't need a screwdriver for desktop heatsinks... For laptop heatsinks there usually are not more than 10 screws holding it down..
Quote from: Transfusion on March 04, 2012, 03:31:12 AM

You don't need a screwdriver for desktop heatsinks... For laptop heatsinks there usually are not more than 10 screws holding it down..

yea but you need a screw driver but thanks

You don't need a screwdriver for desktop heatsinks...

I guess he means to press down the clip... I have used a ruler for this.

Hello All:

I happened on this forum and noted that there were several posts about a "False CPU Fan Failure Message"  that users have been experiencing. Although there are numerous reasons for this message being generated, most are false and have nothing to do with a failed CPU fan. Many are lead to believe or assume that the CPU fan has failed because of this message, a USB hub is at fault, and numerous other suspicions.

99% of the time when one opens the computer case they immediately note that the CPU Fan is running, there's no dust or any other issue that can be detected, however this warning message continues to be generated. This issue is most apparent on a cold start, not a restart.

The cause for this false message is most often associated with a peripheral USB device, such as a USB hub that places just a sufficient extra load on the power supply and the fan fails to come up to speed quickly enough due to the extra load from the USB devices plugged into the computer, thus preventing the CPU fan from developing sufficient RPM (below 500 RPM). Keep in mind that most hardware, including fans, is made in China and a lot of this hardware is not of the best quality (CHEAP).

When the CPU fan fails to develop sufficient RPM quickly enough, the BIOS triggers the CPU FAN FAILUE MESSAGE AND SHUTS DOWN THE COMPUTER. This issue is especially associated with new HP/Compaq desktops. The CPU fan has to come up to speed quickly enough and produce at least 500 RPM, if the CPU fan is clocking at under 500 RPM, lets say, 450 to 475, there is a strong likelihood that the BIOS will trigger this message and shut down the computer. Obviously, once the fan is up to speed, the problem goes away. A good test would be to unplug all USB devices except the keyboard and mouse, PERFORM A COMPUTER COLD START, assuming that Windows starts normally, now plug in all your USB devices while the computer is up and running, then perform a restart, NOT A COLD START, A RESTART, if the computer restarts normally with no warning messages, then the issue is as I described above.

Some AMD processors do not let you configure the CPU fan setting, others do. There are two fixes for this problem:

Best Fix: Replace the CPU fan with a fan capable of producing at least 500 RPM  or more;

Temporary Fix: Some BIOS will allow you to uncheck the fan alert setting and this will temporarily solve the problem, however, this is only a temporary fix and you should replace the fan. CPU fans are cheap as dirt, go buy a good one and replace the fan, you don't want to risk blowing a CPU.

I've solved this problem for many people and I hope it will help you. As a side note: I'm 67 and have worked with computers before there weren't any personal computers, my comments are not intended to suggest that I'm the sharpest knife in the drawer, just to note that I'm experienced.

Hope this resolves your False CPU Fan Failure Warning Message.

RWK
Quote from: RWKTOMB on January 14, 2012, 03:18:38 AM

Hello All:

I happened on this forum and noted that there were several posts about a "False CPU Fan Failure Message"  that users have been experiencing. Although there are numerous reasons for this message being generated, most are false and have nothing to do with a failed CPU fan. Many are lead to believe or assume that the CPU fan has failed because of this message, a USB hub is at fault, and numerous other suspicions.

99% of the time when one opens the computer case they immediately note that the CPU Fan is running, there's no dust or any other issue that can be detected, however this warning message continues to be generated. This issue is most apparent on a cold start, not a restart.

The cause for this false message is most often associated with a peripheral USB device, such as a USB hub that places just a sufficient extra load on the power supply and the fan fails to come up to speed quickly enough due to the extra load from the USB devices plugged into the computer, thus preventing the CPU fan from developing sufficient RPM (below 500 RPM). Keep in mind that most hardware, including fans, is made in China and a lot of this hardware is not of the best quality (Cheap).

When the CPU fan fails to develop sufficient RPM quickly enough, the BIOS triggers the CPU FAN FAILUE MESSAGE AND SHUTS DOWN THE COMPUTER. This issue is especially associated with new HP/Compaq desktops. The CPU fan has to come up to speed quickly enough and produce at least 500 RPM, if the CPU fan is clocking at under 500 RPM, lets say, 450 to 475, there is a strong likelihood that the BIOS will trigger this message and shut down the computer. Obviously, once the fan is up to speed, the problem goes away. A good test would be to unplug all USB devices except the keyboard and mouse, PERFORM A COMPUTER COLD START, assuming that Windows starts normally, now plug in all your USB devices while the computer is up and running, then perform a restart, NOT A COLD START, A RESTART, if the computer restarts normally with no warning messages, then the issue is as I described above.

Some AMD processors do not let you configure the CPU fan setting, others do. There are two fixes for this problem:

Best Fix: Replace the CPU fan with a fan capable of producing at least 500 RPM  or more;

Temporary Fix: Some BIOS will allow you to uncheck the fan alert setting and this will temporarily solve the problem, however, this is only a temporary fix and you should replace the fan. CPU fans are cheap as dirt, go buy a good one and replace the fan, you don't want to risk blowing a CPU.

Lastly, there's a very small chance that the problem lies with computer power supply that isn't sufficient to manage all the devices you have plugged into it, however, experience has taught me that most of the time the issue is associated with what I have described above. In recent years computer manufacturers have been LOWERING the capacity of power supplies, used to be that computers had at least 250 - 300 watt supplies, I GUESS the LOWER power handling capacity was a bean counter cost savings idea.

In the end, I've solved this problem for many people and I hope it will help you. As a side note: I'm 67 and have worked with computers before there weren't any personal computers, my comments are not intended to suggest that I'm the sharpest knife in the drawer, just to note that I'm experienced.

Hope this resolves your False CPU Fan Failure Warning Message.

RWK

Interesting.
My imitated experience is the 100% of the fans that fail
 - are bad.

Had been running XPPro SP3 on an old HP Pavilion.  Had a WD Caviar Green 500GB that WENT BAD. Trying to use a Maxtor 200GB I had on hand, Due to virus I had to do a full erase, using 0 writing, Now I need to partition and format, NO OPERATING SYSTEM onHD. When I TRIED to run XPPro instalation it SHOWED the full size of HD 500GB as raw avaiable space it couldn't partition or format.  When I clicked to install a message came up saying there was no avaible space that XP could write to, needs to be partitioned and formated. Please help.

What does it say on your install CD?

Can you create a partition less than 137GB in size?Also, read:  How do I install Microsoft Windows XP?

By the way...is the bad drive still in the computer...or did you remove it?  Looks as if you left it in....based on the following comment:

Code: [Select]When I tried to run XPPro instalation it showed the full size of HD 500GB as raw avaiable space it couldn't partition or format.
That being the case...you probably need to remove the bad drive...and set the new drive as the Master and try again.  Unless I'm missing something in the original post.

hi i have a problem with my laptop there are parts wich heat up but have no vents so i cant do annything any body nows how can i  cool them
down thank you Look up the service guide and see how you can remove the fan. Dust often collects between the fan and grill in such a way that you can not see it without REMOVING the cooling assembly.Laptops, dispite their names, should not be used on one's lap directly.  This causes the device to be insulated by clothing or blankets and thus does not provide proper airflow.  It is best to rest a laptop on a HARD, flat surface, such as a table top our a lap desk.  Laptops will heat up and cool down more or less depending on their use, and under heavy use it is not uncommon for parts to heat up.  The case itself actually works as a heatsink, and allows for the distribution of heat as needed.  If a laptop is heating up too much, the fans will spin loudly, and then to save itself the laptop will actually SHUT itself off.

If the laptop is shutting down while being used properly, then definately look into dust or the fan being the culprit.  If it is just getting hot, try changing the surface it is being used on, or understand some things may be hot by DESIGN, but not CAUSE for alarm.

i ve 845 GRG mobo and on starting PC the screen glows but does not show any display. the problem occures after thunderstrom strike at night but my PC was off. the next day when i switched on there as no display and no booting.
 but
- DVD PLAYER is working,
-KEY BOARD LED is ON,
-MOUSE  LED is ON.
-PROCESSOR P-IV  fan is working
-mobo led is glowing green.
-harddisk LED is glowing continuously.
-SMPS is working CORRECTLY. (checked with other PC)
-RAM is servicable.(checked with other PC)
-Hard disk is servicable. (checked with other PC)
-processor is servicable. (checked with other PC)

and later i managed to get one servicable PCI video card but still the condition was same ( the display glows but does not show any text)

can any one tell me that

- if the video adaptor is un servicable then the display will glow with out text or it will not glow.

-what can be the possible cause other than video adaptor.

- what can be the possible DAMAGE in respect of thundering/lightening in this case.

thanksThis is a very hard question to answer. When a computer experiences a power surge it is possible that it does noticeable damage such as burning inside the computer and physically blowing PARTS. Sometimes, however, this isn't the case and you can't SEE any noticeable damage at all. Just because the mobo led is glowing green doesn't mean the board wasn't fried from the surge. As for the question about the video adapter and the glowing display: I suppose it is possible for the video adapter to be damaged and simply give a blank output to the monitor rather than no output at all. If the issue was caused by lightning then it is very odd that your power supply still works. Since you tested the processor, hard drive, RAM, and power supply then that only leaves the CPU and motherboard as possible broken components. Its a long shot but try this:Unplug the computer then remove the button battery from your motherboard. LEAVE the battery removed for 5 minutes or so then replace it and try turning the computer on again. I had a glowing display with now picture one time and this worked for me, as my bios setting for default VGA somehow got changed and this resets it.thanks for your reply

 i ve removed the BIOS batt and then replaced after 10 min then also the problem remain same.
i think that the power surge has made one thing to short in power supply chain and that fault is cutting suply to either processor or vga chip which is responsible for display.
If I could get the power supply diag for this board, it will be help full to understand the probable cause.

Hey! Yeah well so I'm selling my MSi GE620DX laptop and planning on building my own PC!

I have put together these two, and I'd like to have your opinion(s) on what the major difference is and if the costdiff is worth it.

• CyberLink DVD Suite 7, 6Channel, OEM CD
  QPAD FH Komplett L.E.
  Corsair Gaming Audio Series SP2200 2.1
  Cooler Master Elite 430 Midi Tower Black
  Silver Power SP-SS500 500W PSU
  ASUS P8Z68-V LX, Socket-1155
  Intel® Core i7-2700K Processor
  QPAD CT Pro Gaming mouse pad Intel Bundl
  Kingston DDR3 HyperX 1600MHz 16GB
  Gainward GeForce GTX 560Ti 1GB PhysX
  Sony Optiarc DVD±RW Writer, AD-5280S
  Seagate Barracuda® 500GB
  No OS selected
  3 Year warranty

• CyberLink DVD Suite 7, 6Channel, OEM CD
  PC BOX LARGE
  QPAD FH Komplett L.E.
  Corsair Gaming Audio Series SP2200 2.1
  Antec P280 Miditower Svart
  Corsair TX V2 650W PSU
  Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3, Socket-1155
  Intel® Core i7-2700K Processor
  Kingston DDR3 HyperX 1600MHz 16GB
  ZOTAC GeForce GTX 570 1280MB PhysX CUDA
  OCZ SSD Agility 3 Series 2.5" 60GB
  Seagate Barracuda® 500GB
  Sony Optiarc DVD±RW Writer, AD-5280S
  SteelSeries QcK Deathwing Edition
  Operativsystem ej valt.
  World of WarCraft Battlechest
  Garanti 3 års inskicksgaranti

Recommended system requirements for Battlefield 3

    OS: Windows 7 64-bit
    Processor: Quad-core Intel or AMD CPU
    RAM: 4GB
    Graphics card: DirectX 11 Nvidia or AMD ATI card, Nvidia GeForce GTX 560 or ATI Radeon 6950.
    Graphics card memory: 1 GB
    Sound card: DirectX compatibl sound card
    Hard drive: 15 GB for disc version or 10 GB for digital version

Oh, what's wrong with Komplett? =)

Hi, I have a Dell Optiplex 755 Desktop, My on-board Audio sounds very tinny and sounds as-if no bass is being kicked out, even with a pair of Sennheiser headphones, I have tried re-installing drivers and everything, I have used the basic 'Microsoft High Definition Audio Device' that WINDOWS 7 automatically installs and I have use various other SoundMAX drivers, though none are officially for Windows 7.
They either say that it is not designed for this Operating System or say that an "ADI Driver" is missing or when I play any sound I get the Blue Screen dump file thing.
So, I went and bought an old cheap PCI Sound CARD to see if this made any difference..... But whenever I turn the PC on with this Sound Card in.... It doesn't boot, but as soon as I take it out, It boots as normal.
Also tried INSERTING the Sound Card when Windows is on and booting, both result in freezing.

I have tried to do a bit of re-search of my own but have failed to find an answer, I think it could be that it is not Drawing any power from the PCI slots or it's dead. Though if it was dead surely my PC would just ignore it and at least boot.

So that's my problem. If there is anything I have missed that you would like to know just REPLY

CheersBefore endeavoring to use the PCI replacement sound card did you go into device manager and disable your on board sound? If not you may have a conflict between the 2 sound devices.Also if you have an alternative PCI slot try that. truenorth Quote from: truenorth on March 07, 2012, 08:01:22 AM

Before endeavoring to use the PCI replacement sound card did you go into device manager and disable your on board sound? If not you may have a conflict between the 2 sound devices.Also if you have an alternative PCI slot try that. truenorth

Is that card even supported by Windows 7 if it is that old?

Also tried inserting the Sound Card when Windows is on and booting, both result in freezing.

I had got a unknow conditon power SUPPLY from one of my fathers associates.  Its a Dell HP-P2507F3B.  Thing is I wondered if I could use this with a custome build or not.  I know that alot of Dell stuff was made just to use with Dell.  However, I just put a replacement board in a unitIt's only a 250 watt psu.  I wouldn't recommend it for a custom build.Its a 305 I think :/  Unless, I order one this is all I have.  I need to replace the on/off switch on the one orginally in it Quote from: Ryuk on March 04, 2012, 10:55:34 AM

...I need to replace the on/off switch on the one orginally in it

what?  Its all I have too work with till I get a replacement switch for the orginal one.  Also, the others I have dont really have the right connectors

I have an Acer X3950 just out of warranty which won't boot up.

Initial PROBLEM was power light coming on briefly then dying and no fans, beeps or power up sounds starting but I assumed the dying light just to be a build up of static in the capacitors.  It was suggested to me that as it wasnt coming on it would be a power issue so I bought and installed a new psu but this MADE no difference whatsoever.

I got a repair guy to have a look and he apparently 'flashed' it for viruses? and got it working for one night.  Next day, back to the same state.  He then suggested it was a mother board issue and advised me to scrap it and buy a new pc because it is a slimline tower and the motherboards are pretty expensive.

Can I get your (2nd) opinions as to what might cause such a problem.  Does it indeed sound like a motherboard issue or could it be viral?  When I got it back from him I went through installing Windows and Comodo updates the night it did work.  But next night it was back to the same powerless state.

Cheers

KKyou have talked about a virus problem try to do the following:
1. remove the hard disk and MONITOR it to confirm of viral infection
2.try to access the bios and check whether it goes off
3.remove the battery and use ac only
4. check whether the ac connector on the board is properly connected
5.replace the battery and use it without the ac
6.replace the processor fan and check if the problem goes away and if it does then it was related to over-heating
7.disassemble the laptop and clean the motherboard with isopropyle alcohol and use hot air station to solder for open joints this has worked for me but CHANCES are 50-50
8. boot with hiren's bootcd and select windows mini option
good luckI believe you can safely ignore the above advice. You probably will need a new motherboard.

Don't buy Acer. Quote from: Salmon Trout on March 06, 2012, 02:45:21 AM

I believe you can safely ignore the above advice. You probably will need a new motherboard.

Don't buy Acer.

Normally I wouldn't have but the shop were practically giving it away.  Now I know why!

People on hardware forums and in real life said to me "Don't buy an Acer!" and "Don't buy a Shuttle!" and I ignored them, and I have not had any hardware troubles with any of them (2 Acer laptops and 2 Shuttle desktops bought over the last 5 years and all still running fine). I wonder if the problem is what the psychologists call "confirmation bias" - you only hear about the ones that break.

Dear Experts,
                    Have a USB hard drive prob here. When I tried copying a 7.35 gb file into my 8 gb pendrive (7.56 usable), Windows shows me this ERROR:

The destination you have specified does not exist. It might be an offline network location or an empty CD or DVD drive. Check the location and try again. Needless to say, the pendrive is connected to the computer and the computer even detects it. thats y i was able to prompt the copy/paste in the first place. i even formatted the usb, but didnt work. pls hlp me guys.

Smaller FILES go O.K?

Raptor,
 
When i tried putting a 2.6 gb file earlier, i faced the same prob. but then the pendrive was full, and 2.64 gb was the only space available. does it have anything to do with the pendrive getting almost filled up?It may have to do with your Windows ver.
I recall a 2G limit for file transfer...not sure which OS though.
There are file-splitters out there...check majorgeeks and or sourceforge for Free solutions.FAT32 can't do more than 4GB per file.

I'd split the file up in chunks of one GB and then try again, like Patio suggested.Also as a side not on the 2.5G move...if the free space is that close to the file being sent Windows will block it automatically...it builds in a certain amount of "overhead " for file size and free space...can't find documentation but i believe it's approx 12% or so.

Sheese...i can't find anything in my brain this morning...1. If the pen drive is formatted with FAT filesystem, the largest file size allowed is 1 byte less than 4 GB. Attempts to create a larger file, whether by copying/moving or some other way, will fail with an error. The error message may vary depending on the software being used.

2. Due to the difference between a disk manufacturer's gigabyte, which is 1,000,000 bytes, and a file system gigabyte which is 1,073,741,824 bytes, an "8 GB" pen drive shows up to a computer as having 7.45 GB usable. (Don't know where the 7.56 figure comes from?)



3. Pen drives store data in flash MEMORY cells that are grouped into pages, with the pages grouped together into blocks. Flash memory cells can only be DIRECTLY WRITTEN to when they are empty. If you are trying to jam a file into the free space that nearly fills it up, there may not be enough free blocks left, especially if the disk is fragmented. Also, as Patio notes, there is a certain amount of space reserved for file system overhead. One more thing, check that you have not got a bunch of "deleted" files in the Recycle Bin.


guys my pendrive is NTFS. I guess patio is right when i put smaller files in it works . and windows shows 7.56 gb available in my computer. OS - Win 7 Home BasicThnx dude u rock. funny I didn't find this when i googled.funny, but i tried this with another of my pendrives and found no prob at all. since when did transcend becum bttr than kingston? prob solvd anyways.am trying the same thing wid my transcend pendrive (this one was kingston) both are 8 gb, but usable is different. kingston has more.

Hi, Basically I bought an SSD to use for my OS and games. I currently have a 465GB hard drive that has my OS on it. I would like to install the SSD and put the OS on it and only use it for games, and use the HD for everything else. What would be the easiest way to do this? Thanks in advance for any help. http://lifehacker.com/5517688/how-to-upgrade-your-tiny-hard-drive-to-a-spacious-new-one-and-keep-your-data-intact
This MAY help.http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/149969-ssd-install-transfer-operating-system.htmlHi guys, I appreciate the links. Those seem a little over my head though. Would it be easier to just reinstall windows onto the new SSD and then wipe out the old HD? I don't mind if I have to reinstall some programs. Thanks againI would draw your attention to the title of your post. ``How to install an SSD and transfer Windows Vista to it.`` The 2 members that have answered you have addressed exactly that desire. Now you are intimidated by the process and are changing the question. Yes you can do the `new`option you suggest but it is NOT without it`s own risks.If you do the reinstall on the SSD it may not work due to some user error and if you had already wiped the old HDD that could create issues with formatting and partitioning etc. Both methods can be used but one does not necessarily guaranty success over the other. If i may suggest why not stick with your original intent and read the articles that were offered. BEFORE implementing them come back and resolve any parts (if any) that you find confusing and members will be glad to try and clarify them.truenorth Quote from: truenorth on March 06, 2012, 07:08:54 AM

I would draw your attention to the title of your post. ``How to install an SSD and transfer Windows Vista to it.`` The 2 members that have answered you have addressed exactly that desire. Now you are intimidated by the process and are changing the question. Yes you can do the `new`option you suggest but it is NOT without it`s own risks.If you do the reinstall on the SSD it may not work due to some user error and if you had already wiped the old HDD that could create issues with formatting and partitioning etc. Both methods can be used but one does not necessarily guaranty success over the other. If i may suggest why not stick with your original intent and read the articles that were offered. BEFORE implementing them come back and resolve any parts (if any) that you find confusing and members will be glad to try and clarify them.truenorth

Did you try re-installing rhe drivers after this operation ? ?
MBoard chipset drivers go 1st.

My speakers are connected to my COMPUTER's sound card through the headphone jack. Though the sound would occasionally drop out during the course of a session, tapping the chassis GENTLY would generally restore it. This is no longer the case. I can only hear through the computer's INTERNAL speakers. What can I do to restore the connection?  Sounds LIKE the soundboard got loose or the jack needs resoldering.
If you're on a tower, you should be OK to buy a cheap replacement sound card and plug your speakers into that in the back - that my first thought.  Otherwise if you are on a laptop, they do make a USB plug with a sound card built in - headphone and speaker jacks.

http://www.usbgear.com/computer_cable_details.cfm?sku=USBG-X2X&cats=121&catid=121%2C136%2C134 Since the MACHINE has internal speakers, the odds are that it's a laptop.  Before I tore the machine apart I would try another set of speakers.

Hello

My PC is quite slow at the moment (2 x 512MB RAM) and I was considering upgrading to a 2.5GB RAM by buying a 2GB RAM card to replace one of the current 512MD cards.

However, I am not sure if I would benefit if the motherboard was not up to the job, but I am not sure how to assess that.

I have copied and pasted the details of my PC below in the hope that someone could advise me.

Many thanks.

High1

OS Name   Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition
Version   5.1.2600 Service Pack 3 Build 2600
OS Manufacturer   Microsoft Corporation
System Name   D45YHY0J
System Manufacturer   Dell Computer Corporation
System Model   Dimension 2400
System Type   X86-based PC
Processor   x86 Family 15 Model 2 Stepping 9 GenuineIntel ~2392 Mhz
BIOS Version/Date   Dell Computer Corporation A05, 02/12/2003
SMBIOS Version   2.3
Windows Directory   C:\WINDOWS
System Directory   C:\WINDOWS\system32
Boot Device   \Device\HarddiskVolume2
Locale   United States
Hardware Abstraction Layer   Version = "5.1.2600.5512 (xpsp.080413-2111)"
User Name   D45YHY0J\Don Higham
Time Zone   GMT Standard Time
Total Physical Memory   1,024.00 MB
Available Physical Memory   214.07 MB
Total Virtual Memory   2.00 GB
Available Virtual Memory   1.96 GB
Page File Space   2.40 GB
Page File   C:\pagefile.sys


Ports:

Name   Conexant SmartHSFi V92 56K DF PCI Modem
Status   OK
PNP Device ID   PCI\VEN_14F1&DEV_2702&SUBSYS_8D881043&REV_01\4&3B1CAF2B&0&28F0
Maximum Input Buffer Size   0
Maximum Output Buffer Size   No
Settable Baud Rate   Yes
Settable Data Bits   Yes
Settable Flow Control   Yes
Settable Parity   Yes
Settable Parity Check   Yes
Settable Stop Bits   Yes
Settable RLSD   Yes
Supports RLSD   Yes
Supports 16 Bit Mode   No
Supports Special Characters   No
Baud Rate   9600
Bits/Byte   8
Stop Bits   1
Parity   None
Busy   No
Abort Read/Write on Error   No
Binary Mode Enabled   Yes
Continue XMit on XOFF   No
CTS Outflow Control   Yes
Discard NULL Bytes   No
DSR Outflow Control   0
DSR Sensitivity   0
DTR Flow Control Type   Enable
EOF Character   0
Error Replace Character   0
Error Replacement Enabled   No
Event Character   0
Parity Check Enabled   No
RTS Flow Control Type   Handshake
XOff Character   19
XOffXMit Threshold   10
XOn Character   17
XOnXMit Threshold   10
XOnXOff InFlow Control   0
XOnXOff OutFlow Control   0
Memory Address   0xFE9F0000-0xFE9FFFFF
I/O Port   0x0000DFF8-0x0000DFFF
IRQ Channel   IRQ 17
   
Name   Communications Port (COM1)
Status   OK
PNP Device ID   ACPI\PNP0501\1
Maximum Input Buffer Size   0
Maximum Output Buffer Size   No
Settable Baud Rate   Yes
Settable Data Bits   Yes
Settable Flow Control   Yes
Settable Parity   Yes
Settable Parity Check   Yes
Settable Stop Bits   Yes
Settable RLSD   Yes
Supports RLSD   Yes
Supports 16 Bit Mode   No
Supports Special Characters   No
Baud Rate   9600
Bits/Byte   8
Stop Bits   1
Parity   None
Busy   No
Abort Read/Write on Error   No
Binary Mode Enabled   Yes
Continue XMit on XOff   No
CTS Outflow Control   No
Discard NULL Bytes   No
DSR Outflow Control   0
DSR Sensitivity   0
DTR Flow Control Type   Enable
EOF Character   0
Error Replace Character   0
Error Replacement Enabled   No
Event Character   0
Parity Check Enabled   No
RTS Flow Control Type   Enable
XOff Character   19
XOffXMit Threshold   512
XOn Character   17
XOnXMit Threshold   2048
XOnXOff InFlow Control   0
XOnXOff OutFlow Control   0
I/O Port   0x000003F8-0x000003FF
IRQ Channel   IRQ 4
Driver   c:\windows\system32\drivers\serial.sys (5.1.2600.5512 (xpsp.080413-2108), 63.00 KB (64,512 bytes), 29/08/2002 06:00)

A new graphics card will help to a point - but performance is based off of the overall system.  (Processor, RAM, OS, VIDEO, hard drive).  512MB isn't too bad for a graphics card, what matters is the make/model of the graphics card.  A newer card with 512MB will run more efficiently and process more than an older version.  If you have a 2GB card, it will only benefit from video processing, and not help out in resolving any slowness with RAM and CPU. 

If you do only have 1GB of RAM on your system - it would be cheaper and more efficient to upgrade that to 2-3GB if your motherboard would support it.  I think, unless you are looking to do some hardcare gaming, a windows XP machine with 2GB or RAM, the processor you have, and a modern video card should handle most everyday tasks you throw at it. 

Other than that, you may want to start saving up for a newer machine.  I BELIEVE the average recommended life span for a PC is 4-5 years.  (I know, crazy).I think he meant module, not card.

XP needs a minimum of 1GB.

A reinstall will probably get you more of a speed benefit than a RAM upgrade.With an older P4 CPU in my opinion spending any more cabbage on that rig would be a waste...
Consider putting that towards saving for a new build...Hello

Many thanks for your advice.

I think I might get 1GB of RAM and do a Win XP reinstallation to clear the system of any rubbish.

Thanks again.

HighMake sure you look up your motherboard and find the maximum RAM supported for each slot before ordering.  Nothing worse than buying nice RAM only to find out the motherboard doesn't know how to handle it.Hello Darthgumby

Thanks for your message.

How would I do this: 'find the maximum RAM supported for each slot before ordering'?

Thanks again.

High1 Quote from: High1 on March 07, 2012, 03:47:06 PM

Hello Darthgumby

Thanks for your message.

How would I do this: 'find the maximum RAM supported for each slot before ordering'?

Thanks again.

High1

How would I do this: 'find the maximum RAM supported for each slot before ordering'?

...
XP needs a minimum of 1GB.
...

Not so. Adding more memory to XP brings small returns.

Everything working great yesterday. I turned PC off around 10am because we were leaving for a day trip and for some reason I thought it would be good to turn it off since I have not done that for a very long time. Usually I just log out. This morning I tried to start it and the monitor won't come on and I can hear a faint beep coming from the tower. OS is WinXP. Any ideas? Thanks.I've done some google searches and discovered incessant beeping is probably related to a RAM problem. Since my PC is 6 years old, should I pay someone to fix it or put my money towards a new PC?

I have everything backed-up with Macrium on an external HD so I will EVENTUALLY be asking for help on how to install these files on a new PC.A "faint" beep? A PC speaker is pretty loud, never faint. Are you sure it's not the power supply unit making a high pitched noise?

Quote

since I have not done that for a very long time.

Yes, always turned on although the energy saver often has it hibernating. The beep doesn't come from the speakers - it comes from the power supply box ( don't know correct term ).

OK. I have 1 GB RAM - 240 pin, DDR2 SDRAM. Max RAM is 4 GB. I have 4 slots -2 are blue and 2 are black. I have two RAM cards in the blue slots. As a test, I removed one RAM card. The beeps stopped and my monitor came on. However,  my mouse doesn't work! Am I getting closer? Does this mean I have a bad RAM card? Next I will swap the RAM cards and see what happens.

Getting closer!! Put the good RAM card in the other blue slot and my computer now works although slow with just one card. Is it possible that the mouse can only work from one RAM slot?

Raptor, please see my edited post above. I have not yet figured out how to do the memory test. I am working from my wife's iPad and it is a PITA!

Hi all,

I was using my PC to do my school homework until midnight, and as always I turned it off before I slept.
Whne I TRIED to turn on the PC to CONTINUE my school work this morning,
the PC turned off immediately after I pressed the POWER ON BUTTON on the fron panel of the PC case.

I am not sure if the problem was caused by the PSU.
Please help if you could.

Thank you.

Kitty
Quickest way to find out is to throw in a PSU that you know works!MIGHT be worth unplugging for a few minutes, then plugging back in and trying.  Has the computer given you any trouble in the past, or has it worked perfectly fine up until now?  Any other symptoms you can THINK of?There might be an internal fuse in the PSU. Quote from: kwfine on March 05, 2012, 10:40:52 AM

Hi all,

I was using my PC to do my school homework until midnight, and as always I turned it off before I slept.
Whne I tried to turn on the PC to continue my school work this morning,
the PC turned off immediately after I pressed the POWER ON button on the fron panel of the PC case.

I am not sure if the problem was caused by the PSU.
Please help if you could.

Thank you.

Kitty

Hi guys,

Specs.
Processor: Athlon X2 Dual Core-Speed 2000MHz
RAM:3072MB
Hard Drive: 250GB
Op System: Windows Vista Home Premium 32 bit

When I switch on the "HP Invent" logo appears with the F9/F10/F11 command key instructions listed at the bottom..
Then....a black screen with a flashing cursor top left !

I can run the BIOS and when I attempt the Primary Hard Disk Self Test the FOLLOWING happens :
1st time I press ENTER = Test Status: No IDE Device
2nd time I press ENTER - Test Status (press Esc to cancel)
                                      00% complete

...and there it remains !

I have noticed that the laptop does get quite hot underneath. I have removed some tiny quantities of dust from the FAN area, but that
does not help anything. I have read that the NVIDIA graphics chip on some Dell computers does occasionally "melt" and become "welded" to the motherboard due to overheating.
My HP is fitted with the NVIDIA graphics pack...what chance ?

I have also tried using the recovery disks but what happens is : Windows is loading files with the filling up scale moving from left to right...then a few small blue screens flash momentarily and then it's back to the black screen with flashing cursor...then the process starts again...Windows is loading files etc.
 
I have replaced my computer with the MACHINE I am using now, but as this HP G60 is only about 4 years old I would like to have a go at getting it going again as a spare machine for my young nephews and nieces to use when they come round...

Any suggestions will be gratefully received.

Regards,Ist thing i would try is remove all power and the battery and remove and re-seat the laptops hard drive...
It's not a good sign that the BIOS shows it intermittently so after that i would DLoad and run the Free diagnostics on the drive from the drive manuf. site...

Let us know.A friend of mine had the same problem.  If it is still under warranty, definately send it back to get looked at.  Otherwise what we had done was pulled out the hard drive and backed up the files using a SATA to USB cable.  The hard drive itself was fine, and the data was fine, but the Windows install would not boot up.  It would just blink that little cursor on a blank screen.

What we eventually ended up doing was ordering a standard copy of the install CD's from the manufacturer's website and did a clean install to factory settings.  This seems to have gotten everything working again.  If you can see the HP logo splash screen and get into BIOS, that is a good sign your hardware still checks out OK.  It's either got to be Windows or the hard drive itself.Thanks for all the replies to my thread...Regrettably the warranty on the laptop has expired already..

May I ask Darthgumby, what exactly is the procedure for performing a back-up of the extracted hard-drive, using a SATA to USB cable ?

I assume the USB end fits into another PC or an external hard drive, but what is a SATA and how does that fit the extracted hard drive from the computer?
Sorry, but I'm a bit new to this and jargonised initials have little meaning to me unless I know exactly what is being referred to..

May I ask also, if I was to obtain standard copies of the install disks from the manufacturer, how can I be sure that they will install if there is no operating system functioning?  What sort of price does one pay for the standard copies of the install disks ?

Am I right in assuming that if I can get the BIOS up, my NVIDIA graphics is intact ?

Thanks again for your kind assistance.

Regards,



Quote from: patio on March 08, 2012, 10:11:20 AM

Ist thing i would try is remove all power and the battery and remove and re-seat the laptops hard drive...
It's not a good sign that the BIOS shows it intermittently so after that i would DLoad and run the Free diagnostics on the drive from the drive manuf. site...

I can run the BIOS and when I attempt the Primary Hard Disk Self Test the following happens :
1st time I press ENTER = Test Status: No IDE Device
2nd time I press ENTER - Test Status (press Esc to cancel)
                                      00% complete

...and there it remains !

I have noticed that the laptop does get quite hot underneath. I have removed some tiny quantities of dust from the fan area, but that
does not help anything. I have read that the NVIDIA graphics chip on some Dell computers does occasionally "melt" and become "welded" to the motherboard due to overheating.
My HP is fitted with the NVIDIA graphics pack...what chance ?

Ist thing i would try is remove all power and the battery and remove and re-seat the laptops hard drive...
It's not a good sign that the BIOS shows it intermittently so after that i would DLoad and run the Free diagnostics on the drive from the drive manuf. site...

Let us know.

You should diagnose the hard drive with another computer and a program such as Hard Disk Sentinel.

I assume that I would have to remove the hard drive from the problem computer and connect it to my "new" laptop
where I would have downloaded the Sentinel program.  How do I connect it ?...What sort of cable..is is a SATA to USB ?

If the hard drive is okay I can use the converter cable to make a back-up and then perhaps order installation
CD-Roms from the manufacturer ?

I do have the recovery CDs I made from the time I first had the computer. However, I am wondering if they really work, as NOTHING happens when I try to run them on the faulty computer.  This seems hardly likely to change even after I've examined the hard drive via Sentinel. I'm not bothered about the data on the drive, as I was fully backed up when the problem first arose.

I know there is little point in "what ifs?" but I'm wondering what the next course of action will be if the Hard drive is diagnosed as okay, but I still cannot run Windows.

The computer I own has a cracked screen it's a Acer Aspire 5532-5535

And I am going to order this: HTTP://www.amazon.com/ASPIRE-5532-5535-LAPTOP-SUBSTITUTE-REPLACEMENT/dp/B003TPND2K

However, before I do I'd like to MAKE sure its the correct ONE. Is there anything in particular I should look for to insure it matches the current one(stock) in the laptop.

If you need any additional information I'd be more than happy to give it.
Quote from: WatchmegoPP on March 11, 2012, 12:53:32 PM

The computer I own [is] a[n] Acer Aspire 5532-5535

I am going to order this: ASPIRE-5532-5535-LAPTOP-SUBSTITUTE-REPLACEMENT

I'd like to make sure its the correct one. Is there anything in particular I should look for [?]

Where would I find a Make and Model number on http://www.amazon.com/ASPIRE-5532-5535-LAPTOP-SUBSTITUTE-REPLACEMENT/dp/B003TPND2K

Hi, I am LOOKING to get this Sound-CARD for my PC - http://www.asus.com/Multimedia/Audio_Cards/Xonar_DG/
But looking at the connectors on that PCB it doesn't look like the PCI cards I have SEEN, I know it says that it requires PCI 2.2, But I am unsure about what this means. 

Here is my PC - http://www.dell.com/us/dfb/p/optiplex-755/pd - Desktop Version, not MT, SFF or USFF 
This is the Motherboard - http://www.blueskyave.com/servlet/the-1612/DR845-Dell-Optiplex-755/Detail 

Just need to know whether this would work in my system as I have one similar to this - http://www.ezcomputers.co.uk/sound-cards/778-6-channel-pci-sound-card.html - which stops my PC from booting, but when I take it out the PC boots as normal. The PCI slots are fine as I have tried a Wireless PCI 'N' Card successfully. 

Thanks.  http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/may07/articles/pcnotes_0507.htm
The Xonar DG is compatible with both 5V and 3.3V PCI slots. It will work with your PC.

Quote

However, when the PCI specification was updated to version 2.3 in 2002, while it continued to support both 5V and 3.3V keyed-system board connectors, it ceased supporting cards that require 5V signalling, only supporting 3.3V and Universal expansion cards. This means that although the PCI expansion slots in a NEW computer MAY look identical to those of your previous PC, and physically accept 5V-only cards, if the motherboard is running PCI version 2.3, only cards that can run on 3.3V signalling levels will actually work — most confusing!

You could actually do what i did when i had my Uni project. I had to write a assignment on a Home PC build and a Gaming PC build. So what i decided to do was...........research. Yeah, i know....radical.

The trouble is, a lot of young folks think that finding a forum devoted to their topic and asking a question is "research". What worries me is that this is the generation that going to be running the world one day.

I have to agree with Raptor, it's the people who run our world today that ruin it. Lets just hope the younger generation will learn from their mistakes.
Glad I could help Helen.

Let's drift back to assisting the OP and save the social observations for Off Topic please...

I have a custom made computer with Windows XP. I am a photographer and have hundreds of images on my hard drive. I've been backing up those files by occasionally burning them onto a CD. This is becoming unpractical. I tried one of the better known off site back up companies but it would have taken a month for them to down load all my images. How about an external hard drive?  If I go that route, is a drive that is powered from my PC (from the USB)better than one that is powered from the wall plug? Is portable as reliable as a desk top drive? Lots of questions........ Any one have any suggestions? Quote

How about an external hard drive?

I've been backing up those files by occasionally burning them onto a CD. This is becoming unpractical.

DVD holds up to 4.7GB

Hi, an External Hard-Drive would do you well. I would recommend a USB Pen Drive, capacities these days go up to 256gb, they are simply plug and play and require no other source of power.

Is portable as reliable as a desk top drive? Lots of questions........ Any one have any suggestions?

Dear Experts,
                 
I own an iPad 2 and when I connect it via USB port to the CPU it says not CHARGING. So far I have only been Ble to charge it by connecting it to a power socket thru the power cord but cant I charge it thru the computer too like how I charge my iTouch? It would become much more convenient. Please help.http://www.pcworld.com/article/217116/why_doesnt_an_ipad_charge_when_connected_to_a_computer.html

The iPad requires 10 Watts to charge.
If you have an Asus computer, you can use Asus Ai Charger to PROVIDE the 10W necessary through the USB ports. If you have an MSI computer, you can GET MSI i-Charger to do the same THING. If you have a Gigabyte computer, you can use Gigabyte ON/OFF charge.

EDIT: http://event.asus.com/mb/2010/ai_charger/ "Compatible with All Motherboards and PCs!" Give it a try.thanks dude u rock. funny i didnt find this wen i googled.I have come across something similar with an iPod Shuffle.
It wouldn't charge until I got ITUNES.
Make sure you have got that and post back.... the OP has already said that the problem is solved... also the fact that he already owns an iPod touch means that he already has iTunes installed...
So I'm marking this "Solved."

Hi there,

I am here in bad need of help to figure out what is going on with my pc of late.
A quick run down of the problem. When the PC is on it will depending on how long its been on will randomly just shut off. When it shuts off, it "sometimes" reboots but most often it "tries" to reboot but fails and then stays off. After this failed try to reboot if I press the power button on the case and mobo, nothing.
Now if I turn OFF the PSU leave it for a few minutes and come back turn the PSU switch on and press the power button the system comes to life for a second or two then dies and will no respond to the power buttons until I turn off the PSU again.

I have gotten it up and RUNNING from this state by leaving it off and unplugged for a couple of hours. When I say the PC comes to life for a second or two, I mean the case fans. If I get it booted up the BIOS is reset to default for some reason. Maybe a dead CMOS battery but I doubt that would cause it to hard crash.

Heat is not an issue, ive monitored the temps.
Clean install of Win7, not a software issue.
I get no BSOD when the crash happens. It just POWERS off LIKE as if I held down the power button for 4 seconds.


I have a short video of the problem, sorry for the darkness, I finally decided to video it and it was 11pm.
https://plus.google.com/102949446272...0497301/videos

video doesn't work.

Tried testing the machine with a different PSU?Definately sounds like a power supply issue.  Either the one you have doesn't supply enough power to your machine (due to recent upgrades perhaps), or it's just going out on you.  It isn't good for your computer to KEEP turning on and shutting it off like that - could damage some parts.  I would try another power supply, of equal or grater capacity that you KNOW is working.

Hello! How does these two compare to eachother?

1. Gainward GeForce GTX 570 1280MB PhysX

and


2. EVGA GeForce GTX 570 1280MB HD DS

Both cost about 300 euros

thank you! Im SORRY I couldnt find the speccs in english, but if I Do I will post them!

phalGraphics performance will be pretty much the same. Looks like the EVGA one has two FANS on it and the Gainward only has one, which may not make all that much difference. Gainward makes two models with the 480 CUDA cores (which both EVGA and Gainward use), one identical to the EVGA version, and one slightly faster (800 MHz vs. 732 MHz).

http://www.evga.com/products/moreInfo.asp?pn=012-P3-1577-AR&family=GeForce%20500%20Series%20Family&sw
http://www.gainward.com/main/edm/GTX570/gw_edm_GTX570.htmlDo you reckon both will do well with ultra graphic games? When combined with a good 8 core amd or intel i7, aswell as 16gb ram?
do they both support cuda physx etc?Yes to all questions.

would this be a good combination? Do tell me if im lacking something ^^

sinc
phalI'd ditch the MSI and get Asus or Gigabyte.
yes that is what im doing TBH, also changing to intel i7 2600 or something, it performed way better at benchmarks