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ok, the problem was the dvd rw don't read 'cd rom' but the other disc was fine.any idea?
the cd wasn't a blank disc but it read as a blank.
any positive post are appreciate
OH, and i posting this thread for my friend, so it gonna be a late reply.Maybe the CD needs cleaning.certain dvd/ cd  roms   can't read all the different  "burnt"    cd"s  you put in there*

was this  cd  / dvd  a homemade copy  or  store bought ?   What brand  cd/ dvd   hardware do you own  and did you update drivers if need be for that hardware?

could be many little things that are causing you grief ..... Quote

don't read 'cd rom' but the other disc

No PROBLEM ALEX...you're more than WELCOME.

Hi,

Just WONDER if anyone might be able to tell me whether Radeon 9100 is equivalent to GForce 4. I've got a game that requires minimum GForce 2.

Thank you in advanceThe Radeon 9100 is an integrated card.
The GEFORCE 4 series is far superior to it in terms of performance.
Hope this helps.Hi Calum,

Thank you for your reply

I've got a game that requires at least GeForce 2. My question is whether i need to buy GeForce2 or higher in order to be able to play the game, or i can just use the Radeon 9100 because that's what my laptop has in it.

Thank you in advanceCan't replace a vid chip in a laptop...unless you spend more than the laptop is worth.
Save your MONEY and start building a gaming desktop rig one piece at a time. This is a great learning experience.
My first build took me around 9 or 10 months because of finances but it was a rock solid 486 with 64MG of RAM and the envy of the neighborhood at the time.I would say that you should be OK as that game must be pretty old.
However, LAPTOPS are not really meant for gaming, if you WANT to game I would advise you to build a desktop.

Quote from: patio on October 24, 2007, 08:07:23 AM

My first build took me around 9 or 10 months because of finances but it was a rock solid 486 with 64MG of RAM and the envy of the neighborhood at the time.

Quote from: Calum on October 25, 2007, 11:36:47 AM

The norm seems to be that the manufacturer will provide a restore disk.
When used, this reverts the computer to its original state (hopefully) - as in Windows, with the pre-installed software, drivers etc installed.
The obvious disadvantage is that you can never get a totally clean install without buying another OS disk.
Does that answer your question?

P.S. I was lucky enough to get a full Windows disk with my computer, but this is getting rarer nowadays I think.

The purchaser does get a CD that can be used to reinstall Windows.

However, it also installs whatever else the vendor wants to install.
Is that it?

Beyond that,   why did you insert  (hopefully) up there.       There must be something more to that....

Quote from: Calum on October 25, 2007, 11:36:47 AM

P.S. I was lucky enough to get a full Windows disk with my computer, but this is getting rarer nowadays I think.

Definitely. Some vendors don't even ship a restore disc with their computers but uses restore partitions instead. They usually do include a piece of software that allow you to burn your own restore discs, but still.

Quote from: Calum on October 25, 2007, 11:36:47 AM

P.S. I was lucky enough to get a full Windows disk with my computer, but this is getting rarer nowadays I think.

Definitely. Some vendors don't even ship a restore disc with their computers but uses restore partitions instead. They usually do include a piece of software that allow you to burn your own restore discs, but still.

Quote from: WillyW on October 25, 2007, 11:41:26 AM

The purchaser does get a CD that can be used to reinstall Windows.

After a fashion, yes.

Quote

However, it also installs whatever else the vendor wants to install.
Is that it?

Pretty much.
It's not really a reinstallation of Windows, just a restore, something like System Restore that's built in to later versions, but more complete.  That's the best I can compare it to.

Quote

Beyond that,   why did you insert  (hopefully) up there.       There must be something more to that....

Because it's not a full reinstallation, it doesn't always help.
I know a guy who had soem major issues, he used the restore disk and it didn't help at all.
Some kind of conflicting software/hardware I think, a full XP disk sorted it out though.
And sometimes the restores go wrong too.

Quote from: Deerpark on October 25, 2007, 11:46:42 AM

Quote from: Calum on October 25, 2007, 11:36:47 AM

P.S. I was lucky enough to get a full Windows disk with my computer, but this is getting rarer nowadays I think.

Definitely. Some vendors don't even ship a restore disc with their computers but uses restore partitions instead. They usually do include a piece of software that allow you to burn your own restore discs, but still.

It gets worse and worse . . .
Especially as many less savvy people don't know how to burn a restore disk or why they should do it.
What is the logic behind not providing a Windows disk?
it can's possibly save them any money.

Quote from: Calum on October 25, 2007, 05:35:19 AM

... and having NO WINDOWS DISK TO REMOVE IT ALL!
Sorry, but that's a touchy point for me.   ...

Can you elaborate on this point for me?

Please understand -  I haven't purchased a brand name computer since....
I think it was 1993.   

I would think that if one purchased a brand new computer from any major manufacturer, and it included WinXP or Vista, or whatever is current...  that it would also include the original CD.   Vendor version,  but an original CD nevertheless.   
Else,  how could the purchaser ever reinstall?

From time to time,  reading forums,  I get the feeling that the CD is not included, but I don't think I've ever asked about it.     
If it is not included,  what do people do when they have a problem.... throw away the computer?

So, please.   Tell me about it.    Fill me in.     
What is 'normal' today?


Thanks

I've a problem when I set my COMPUTER in standby. When my computer has shut down, when where come a ignoring sound from my motherboard and that sound continuing until I take the POWER from the computer.

I've a idea about it's something I can edit in my BIOS options. But I don't know WITCH one.ignoring sound?The annoying sound is probably a fan still running.Uhh, sorry, I MEAN annoying, but it's a LOUD 'bip bip bip', there continuing...

Right now I'm on a Gateway Solo Pentium II laptop without the docking station. I quit using the docking station about a year ago because of a problem. Either you WOULD press the power button and nothing would happen, or Windows would NEVER start. To get it to start I had to alternate pressing the power button on the laptop and on the docking station itself. This isn't all too important to solve, because I'm fine with just the laptop. But the docking station has an additional four USB ports and a port for a keyboard, which would make life a lot easier.

Any help would be fantastic. Quote

But the docking station has an additional four USB ports

On the laptop there is one PS/2 port, so one mouse, or one keyboard.

Or I could just stop. Trying. patio, you're trying to help by evading the problem, and I thank you for helping, but I need the problem solved not evaded.

when the window pops up for me to install, it is in ITALIAN....Could someone please give me "for  dummy" instructions to change it BACK to english??  Same thing happened wi my pic SITE, and I was able to change it with directions like...." tools is the third tab from left...options is the first tab on top, second dropdown on right is language.....ect...  THIS time im gonna also write the words in italian so I can just find those words I need if I ever do another program!!  Thanks in advance, from a mom,  puter dummy.    Travel to HP's site and enter the PRINTER info...model # etc. and do a search.
This should take you to the drivers page where you can DLoad an English version of the drivers...
If you need assistance post back with alot more info on the printer.I went ahead and installed the printer in italian after a very LONG and fusterating night on a helpline/chat thing.... So, now can someone tell me how to just **change the language **PLEASE??   it is a HP, deskjet, F4140, all in one. if everything you installed is in Italian, then you must uninstall the HP software and download the english drivers as patio said. Then install them. OK,  I will try to uninstall....I had my picture site do this to me, and it was just a matter of GOING into tools and a few tabs......Was hoping this would be as easy.I will come back after I erase, and download from HP website.thanks. A website is different...in fact many webpages will display in 3 or 4 languages DEPENDING on which link you click. This is by design.
With drivers and manuals it's different...if you get Italian that's what you have It cannot be changed.
Hope this clarifies things.

hey guys...

Ill start with the Hardware:
MSI 648-F Neo MoBo
Intel Celeron 2.5Ghz (sl6zy)

Barracuda 20GB hdd - Pri Master
Maxtor 13GD Hdd - sec - Master
WD 10GDhdd - pri Slave
Lite-On 20x VD burner - sec Slave

ATI Radeon 9200SE

I'm having this really weird problem where if I am copying files to/from the Maxtor drive, CPU usage will jump to 100% and all audio will stutter...MSN sign-in noises, everything!

It never used to do this at all...Should I be very worried? S.M.A.R.T testing checks out all OK..

Any ideas/Suggestions??

KurtisWhat OS ?
How much FREE space on the destination drive ?
Is indexing service on or off ?
What happened prior to this ?
Any new hardware/software installed ?Hey Patio,
No new PROGRAMS installed...
at this time it has 6.09GB free out of 12.6Gb...So no PROBLEMS there.
Indexing service must be on as I have not changed it at all...It seems to be only with this drive.
Somebody told me recently their Cache went warped on their Maxtor and it was causing the problems as it wasn't working right. When I run a scandisk, everything checks out no problems.

Also, I opened task manager before copying some test files to it, and it shot up to 100% with system using and average of 50% and explorer using 30%

The weird thing is, when I copy between the two drives on the primary line, it is fine, but between the Maxtor (sec Master) and either of the two, it packs a sad...

Any more ideas? and thank you!
KurtisDoes the burner have any hiccups ? ?
If so i would try a brand new IDE cable on IDE2.

Another thing to check...if that channel had a few consecutive errors it may have dropped into PIO mode (the slowest)
Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager...right click the Secondary IDE channel and select Properties. If it is in PIO mode change it to UDMA if available save the changes and re-boot.

p.s. How large are these "test" files ? ?You were right Patio...It is in PIO mode and wont let me change it at all, just says use DMA if available, which it obviously musnt be as it would use it if is was?
I will try the drive just by itself, and see what turns out.

The device 0: PIO (Maxtor?)
Device 1 Ultra DMA 4 (DVD burner?)

The dvd burner is very near new...2-3 months OLD at the most.

Kurtis

2 things you can try if it is not saving the settings...
First you can remove the secondary IDE channel in Device Manager and upon re-boot Windows will re-install it.

Or 2nd Travel Here...

Note: The 2nd method involves tweaking the registry so make sure you have it backed up before proceeding.

hello everyone,

got some specs here that would like to know if they r cool to run games for a couple of years..

-Intel Core2 Duo E6750 2,66GHz 4MB 1333MHz 775.

- Asus Intel P35 P5K Socket LGA 775 + DualChannel.

-2 GB DDR2 RAM PC 667.

- Nvidia 8600GTS .


Thanks in Advance..For the most part, it looks good. One thing I'd change though is the 8600GTS. It's fine for now, but won't last as LONG as something like the 8800GTS. If you can, wait a little longer for the new 8800GT. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's supposed to retail at about $250 for the 512MB VERSION and $200 for the 256MB version while still GIVING the performance of an 8800GTS 320MB if not a 640MB.If you wanna run games for a few years then the Q6600 is a better deal. But you should probably wait till January when the new Quad Core CPUS will be released. Well worth the wait.

And an 8800 GTS/ HD 2900 Pro are the only cards to buy right now. The 8800 GT is not going to be better than the current 8800 GTS, and a new one is coming out. Again, January is when the new cards come out, and it's also well worth the wait.

Not to mention you should wait for 780i SLi, which should be released in 2 weeks.

Good Luck.

Got my comp as a referb and it came with an LG DVD multi recorder, at first everything was great, I put in my CD recorder as the slave and all was well.  About 3 mos ago after updating all of a sudden there's no DVD drive anymore, just the CD.  I plugged & unplugged, restarted, been thru the add hardware, REINSTALLED software and made it now the slave.  Still nothing.

I'm at my skills end, is there something I'm missing?

ThanksSo,are you telling us you have Windows XP and you updated
and then the problems started?Yes, running XP.  That's the only thing that I can think of, just went to put in a DVD one DAY about 3 mos ago and nothing there.  Thant's what gets me, it's just not there, ANYWHERE I look.

Now,remember I am only a Woodpecker....

Go to the below site scroll down until you
come to 'Download Guided Help' in a small
rectangle shaped box.

This file is 127kb.Download and run it.

See if that fixes the problem.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060Thanks street, but no go.  Still not recognizing the drive.  Went to the LG site to download drivers there and still now luck.  Quote

there's no DVD drive anymore, just the CD

hey GENTLEMEN (and ladies),

i have a quick question about newer laptops that won't power on.  (seems to be common with new HP laptops which, btw, suck.)  What do you GUYS think the most likely cause of this is?  That is, for ones that can receive power (dc LIGHT comes on), but won't power up?

Without more information that is impossible to say.
It could be a bad power supply, damaged battery, a loose connection somewhere, a dead BIOS, etc.well it's not battery ISSUES because an ac adapter should be enough, I power most of them on without the battery INSIDE.  I'm starting to lean towards a bad motherboard.  Thanks for your input.

My 2 front  USB ports are not recognising my CARD reader and my external Seagate Drive, neither of them have software
I've tried the mouse in the ports and that is fine, they were okay yesterday
went into device manager says unrecognosed devices .

Tried closing down and rebooting a few times. Any ideas.  Plain language please
Thank you IreneThe front ports on most machines are notorious for being under-powered due to cost cutting manufacturing issues...do the devices work normally on the rear ports ? ?
If so there are extension cables available.
I know it's not a solution but it's easier than re-wiring the inside of your case.
A powered USB hub would also be another fix...

http://www.usbgear.com/USB2_7port_hub/Thanks I've tried them on the back ports too and getting the same result, this has happened earlier this month and then it righted itself after a few days without me dong anything except pulling my hair out, hopefully it will do it again, its crazy my scanner is on a USB  hub at back and is fine although of course that PLUGS in to a power pont too, I've tried USING the extra power USB plus that plugs into another hub but made no difference. My COMPUTER guy put extra INTERNAL power it but will talk to him about a powered USB hub. I got rid of a mouse earler because it  suddenly stopped working maybe that was the same problems too

Im wanting to start building my first computer here in the next few months (after Christmas).  I want to get start getting some of the parts for it like the motherboard and processor.  Whats a good motherboard that supports a Duo or Quad Processor (havent decided which one I want yet) and supports at LEAST 4 GB DDR2 RAM?

I dont know awhole lot about motherboards in general.  Im trying to learn whats good and what manufacturers are the best of motherboards.

Any suggestions on what type i should get.  Let me know.

Thnx in advanceno1? or at least a website that I can get good deals on? Quote from: zanter8 on October 21, 2007, 07:08:21 AM

or at least a website that I can get good deals on?

I have an Intel Pentium 4 540J, 3200 MHz (16 x 200) processor.  I just yesterday applied articsilver 5 on it.  The idle temperature dropped about 2 or 3 degrees.  My CURRENT idle temperature is around 53-54c. and my load is around 65 to 67c at the most.
do you guys think this is normal or too HIGH.  If so what what HEATSINK do you guys recommend.  I also have a question on my hard drives.  their temperature is 37c on both of them. Is this acceptable?  Processor temp - see here.

Hdd temp specs - can't be specific with knowing the manufacturer/model  but a Seagate drive is mentioned here.

Seems like your processor temp is borderline hot while your hdd temps could be well within spec.

Good luck.thanks for the pages. well I guess I'll buy a different heatsink for the processor.  I have heard of peoples computers shutting down due to overheating of the processor, but I have never had that problem.  well at least not yet, and I better do something before it does STUFF like that.

I recently created a RAID 1 using two 400GB WD SATA hard drives and a HighPoint RocketRAID 1520 CONTROLLER.  The array is not my boot drive and is USED only to store music, movies, pictures, etc on a WinXP system.

The problem I am seeing is that any file written to the RAID has a chance of being slightly corrupted.  Pictures will often times have the colors slightly wrong or entire sections of the photo will be shifted out of place.  Music files often contain blips, beeps, and glitches.  I am sometimes able to create an error-free file on the RAID array after re-writing the data to the disk.

I am led to think the problem lies with the controller.  It was pretty cheap (~$60) but I think it should still be able to perform properly.  Does anyone have a suggestion?  Changing some settings on the controller, updating firmware, etc?  Anyone else have a similar problem?Disable windows write behind caching. You don't mention your OS, so click here for instructions.I tried to disable "Window write behind caching" but it is not an option on my disk.  The only two available options under the policy tab are "Optimize for QUICK removal" and "Optimize for performance" (which is selected).  However both options are GREYED out so neither can be changed.

I checked the policy tab on my other disk (a Seagate) and an option exists to turn off write-behind caching.  But on my Western Digital/RocketRAID array, no option exists. 

Is there a way to disable it through the register?  Is there a good utility to use?  Btw, as mentioned above I am using a Windows XP system.

hey guys i want to ask u for HELP
i bought a new pc recently and the motherboard doesnt have ps2 ports so i WENT and bought a microsoft wireless keyboard and mouse set. the mouse end is usb but the keyboard end is ps2 so i bought a cable that has two ps2 ends on one side becoming a usb, onto which i connected the keyboard and mouse. however i have this problem where when i press one button, then press a second one together and then depress the second button keeping the first button pressed it doesnt work. for example while playing a game i press w to move forward and then w and a to go forward and left. then when i depress a to just go forward, i STOP moving. i tried it in microsoft word and with other games, even tried another keyboard and connected it to that cable, even replaced the cable with a new one and the problem still persists. can anyone pls help me??anyone?I don't understand:
Quote

i bought a cable that has two ps2 ends on one side becoming a usb, onto which i connected the keyboard and mouse

Hi all,

This computer's been problematic since I got it. I've always had to press the power button over and over again (on average around 40 times) until it finally just starts up. Sometimes hitting the computer on its side will work. This happens every single time I shut it down. When it finally does start up, the clock is where it was when I shut down.

Lately, it's started to get stuck. It can happen anytime, when making high demands on the machine or practically none. I can still move the mouse, and pull up the task manager, but nothing else. The power light on the front of the computer goes off, but it's clearly still running. If I hit the computer hard enough, it will start going again, and all the commands that I pressed in the meantime (after it got stuck) will be executed, in order, while I watch, impotent. It's also started to lose time (not just windows, the system clock too) while running, constantly - immediately after resetting it starts to lose time, both when the computer is on AND off.

It seemed like something was loose (otherwise why would hitting it help?), but I've had it all apart and everything seems to be tightly connected. I've also blown all the dust out, etc. I am making some fairly high demands power-wise (lots of usb attachments) but I'm not sure if a weak psu could account for these sorts of problems. The power light constantly flickers on and off irregularly, though, but it always has done so I'm not sure if that's normal. Just to be sure, I've run every virus/spyware check imaginable, and it all comes back clean. It seems hardware; any ideas? Do you think just needing to replace a battery could cause those kinds of problems? Here are the specs...


- HP Compaq Business Desktop dc5000

- Intel Pentium 4, CPU 2.80 GHz

- 2.79 GHz, 504MB RAM

- Running Windows XP with all updates

- Power Supply: Operating Voltage Range 90–132 VAC 180–264 VAC, Rated Voltage Range 100–127 VAC 200–240 VAC, Rated Line Frequency 50–60 Hz 50–60 Hz

- attached via USB are a Seagate external hard drive (with its own power supply), a wireless mouse, a keyboard, and a Sony DVD burner (with its own power supply)


Thanks a lot for any help anyone can offer.I'd replace the CMOS battery straight away, and I'd reseat the RAM, and possibly check the CPU is seated properly, and I'd definitely suspect the PSU.

Cheers. Do you have any idea why any of those things would cause the problems described  (other than reseating the RAM, which unfortunately hasn't helped)? I'd love to get to the root of it before I start replacing components... Quote from: BRANDO on October 23, 2007, 02:25:21 PM

Cheers. Do you have any idea why any of those things would cause the problems described  (other than reseating the RAM, which unfortunately hasn't helped)? I'd love to get to the root of it before I start replacing components...

Actually, though, do you think a cracked motherboard could cause these problems? There obviously could be cracks I can't see.

Your power supply is bad get a new one thats the only solution.

Hello!
HDD related question...

I am using a noname HDD enclosure I bought at the local computor shoppe. This is my second, but a different 'noname'; the first one died due to power supply failure.
I have two harddrives Seagate Barracuda 120GB (7200.3) and 320GB (7200.10). 

So I was using the 120GB hdd through the enclosure until one day i turn it on and get the message  "x:\ is not accessible. The file or directory is corrupted or unreadable".... hmmm... pulled out NTFS GetDataBack, recovered most of my files onto the 320GB hdd.... Until couple of days ago, I try to copy some files onto it get a BSOD. Ran CHKDSK.... it found some bad blocks and after doing 4 of 5 steps ABORTED on the last step (I forget what the error was but it seemed benign, so I closed the window)... that "fixed" my harddrive. Now I get the same message as with the first one "bla bla.. ...CORRUPT...". I can still get the files out w/ GetDataBback, but frankly its pissing me off cuz now I have no hard drive to put them on!

I am kind of tired of spending 100 bucks every couple of months on a NEW hard drive , so I kinda decided to get this problem fixed. I kinda suspect the enclosure. The problem is, I run it all the time on my laptop (I actually NEVER turn my computer or the hdd off) and I'm wondering if the enclosure simply can't "hack it"

Did someone else encounter something like this with a similar setup?? Or should I spend 40 bucks on a BETTER enclosure??? If so, can someone recommend one??

Thank you very much in advance =)See Microsoft KB article 176646.

I think you should spend a few more dollars on a new computer.It may or may not be the enclosure...
What caught my attention was the fact you rarely shut down the laptop.
But in periods of inactivity Windows decides some things on it's own.
If you are using Win2K or a newer OS here is what you can try...
Go to Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager...right click all instances of USB roots and hubs and select Properties and select Power Management.
Un-check "allow Windows to turn this off" which is on by default...not a good setting for external drives.

I would also DLoad and run the diagnostics from the drive manuf. site...their a bit more thorough than chkdsk.Hey.. I have one of those enclosures also.. I also had a 7200rpm drive in it.  I don't know about yours but mine is TERRIBLE at keeping the drive cool maybe your drives are getting ruined by the heat.. I left mine on one time for a day and it was so hot I could hardly stand to touch it.  So My suggestion, try switching it off hwen you're not using it, or simply buy an ACTUAL external hdd instead of a DIY one like you have been and like I did.  I won't put anyhting but a cd drive in my enclosure now because it simply cannot handle the heat of a 7200rpm drive.  I think I remember reading somewhere before that if gets so hot it will cause data corruption so hey it can't hurt to try shutting it off when you don't use it!dairyman: i tried running chkdsk, it wont go it says "unable to determine volume version and state". I tried that before with the 120GB drive and got the same message. w/ regard to getting a new computer, mine is practically brand new just paid 1500 for it last year. I wont buy another one for another 2 years if I can help it!

patio: thanks for that info!!! (I use WinXP btw). I checked them all off, I never even realized that that setting was there, thanks!!!
I never realized that Windows could send my external drives to sleep. I know what it sounds like when a drive sleeps though on a regular configuration, but I never notice my external one "waking up" when I start using the computer after a long delay. Why do you suspect this setting could be a problem???

pudco: heat isn't the problem, I am very sure of it. My drive runs at about 46C. I personally believe (though many will disagree) that the nominal TEMPERATURE for a hard drive is 40-45C. This was only recently that I took on this belief due to the Google Labs report on a large number of hard drives http://labs.google.com/papers/disk_failures.pdf

Thank you all very much for responding!!!Stasik,
That setting is the default Windows setting...what was Gates thinking ? ?
It really frosted me when i first discovered it. The last thing you want for an external drive is power interruption.
 

As to the chkdsk you really should run it...have you tried it in safemode ? ?

Take care.

I realize the Imation Super DISK drive has gone to the hinterlands, but hope you can supply an answer to a problem I am having. My BIOS recognizes the LS 120 drive but I cannot open a floppy. Upon inserting a floppy it asks if I want to format the floppy. If I say yes the format menu opens but all areas such as: Capacity, File system, Allocation unit size, are completely blank. A message then states that the floppy cannot be formatted. Am I missing a driver? If not would someone possibly have a solution to the problem?Welcome to the CH forums.

What is your operating system?welcome....how old . long have you had this puter...  was it working ok  before & 4  how  long?

any recent installs or  downloads..using  bit torrent?

more INFO LIKE  Dusty says   better !The read/write heads are out of alignment...Zip drives were problematic brand new... much less 15 years later.
There are companies that will retrieve your data from Zip disks and copy it to a new media for a FEE. Not too unreasonable.

One thing you can try : Power down the machine. Mount the drive UPSIDE down. Power up and be ready to copy your files...this worked for me exactly 3 times over the years so no promises...

I want to know whether this will work ..... if it wont work can someone give me a another option please , i want to provide more cooling for my cpu and computer as a whole , i have a spare system fan ....... and i want to remove the fan of the spare one and stick it on top of my current one thats cooling the cpu....

Heres a picture of what i want to do , ive also provided a picture of the inside of my computer , to see if you guys know where else it can go if this fails ...






Tony My guess WOULD be because of the dynamics of airflow mechanics at best they would cancel each other out.

( That sounded pretty impressive HuH ? ?)

 

Seriously if this was an option the CPU/board manufacturers would have implemented such a setup years ago...

There are some Zahlman cooling options abvailable for that Socket 478 board that won't break your piggybank...i would do more research into those.Ha yeah it did ....

Ok how about just attaching the other fan and sticking in one of my EMPTY parts of my computer....

Tony A case fan would move more air. CPU fans are designed for heat dissipation in a small area...not for moving air by volume...WHATS the POINT of two fans though? Why not just buy a more powerful and bigger one? I got myself Hyper 6+ and it works quietly and good too.If you really need more air on the cpu, search google for ADAPTERS that allow you to mount a 120mm fan in place of the 80mm.Ha i did it ....

There both attached like in the picture lol    Keep an eye on the CPU temperature... See if there's any actual benefit...I would like to know if Frankenstein runs any cooler too.

After all Halloween is coming....

I have a laptop with an Intel 845MP chipset in it.  it has a pentium 4-m 1.8ghz processor in it.  I was lookingin the service manual for it and it shows the DIFFERENT processors it could possibly be shipped with... the list goes up to 2.2ghz however intel makes the P4-M's faster than 2.2ghz.. so I was wondering if anyone can help me figure out if I can upgrade beyond 2.2...even to 2.4 or something if I could that'd be great.  I've looked and maybe i'm just looking in the wrong PLACES or searching the wrong keywords. All I want basically is a CPU support list for the Intel 845MP chipset.  If ANYONE can help, thank you!!!  Oh yeah the computer is a Compaq Evo N1000c although I think the chipset should be all that matters *SHRUGS*  Thanks!!

JayI would go to a repair shop to get a quote on swapping out the CPU on that laptop before going any further...this can be costly and may not be WORTH it.To be perfectly HONEST, it's really not worth it.
It will be very costly if it's even possible, and the performance increase will not be very much.
Heat issues make the upgrade tricky, so I doubt you could get anything faster than a 2.2 anyway.And laptop CPU swaps are not for the faint of Heart...

For one thing you have to have above average soldering skills and all the proper tools.

What kind of CPU wpuld be ideal for a basic gaming computer? Does it make a difference if I used AMD or Pentium. Single, duel, or quad process.  Would would be ideal Of course the more power you get the better games are going to PERFORM. As far as AMD vs. Intel (Pentium) you're not going to notice any difference, both are great processors for gaming. Although some seem to claim AMD is better for gaming than Intel but there is no basis or studies on it that actually prove that's true.

Quad core processor is the best right now but it's going to be a lot more EXPENSIVE. I'd SUGGEST at this time and DATE that you go with a dual core processor either AMD or Intel it's going to be the most affordable and best performance.

*Edit: Fixed SPELLING error.And as always when considering what to get starting with a budget or a number of what you expect to spend helps narrow down the parameters somewhat...

Hey
first time here. Having used too many hours now trying to fix this, I am turning for help wherever help is to be found. I have a laptop with too much and important information to be lost.

I can´t start my computer and I strongly suspect it is somehow because of the last shutdown of the computer. I didn´t have POWER supply plugged in and my batteries burned out while it was in hibernation.

I have a Packard Bell with Vista and an AMI BIOS and have no backup/recovery CD.

When I start my computer with AC nothing happens at all except that it recharges my battery. When I start using the battery alone I GET this up in my screen:

CMOS Battery Low
CMOS Checksum Bad
CMOS Date/Time Not Set
Press F2 to Run SETUP
Press F1 to load default values and continue

So I press either F1 or F2 with the same result... PASSWORD!!

I have tried using the default passwords for AMI but none of them worked.

I´m offshore at the moment so I somehow need to fix it myself (hopefully with your help though) and whatever risk I need to take, I probably will.How to clear an unknown BIOS password.

I am using a Dell LATITUDE D800, about 3 YEARS old.  Suddenly the KEY for the letter alphbetically between U and W won't work.  (I can't type it here because it won't work!)  I press down and it won't go down--I get resistance.  Suddenly started this e-ening. (That's the nonworking letter.)  Any idea on the cause?

Thanks so much for any help.  If you have never worked on a laptop best to PAY a repair shop.

See the below link.

Note:Compressed AIR can be used on the keyboard to get rid of dirt,or residue build-up.That may help.

http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/latd800/en/index.htm

guys please help. I am using a Windows XP sp2... when i insert my flash drive, it doesn't seem to appear in My Computer although at the system tray, it NOTIFIES me that a removable disk is currently connected.

but when you go to dos prompt, well you can see the files, but by browsing the window, it doesnt appear...

sorry for my bad english    I hope you guys can help me.. thanks in ADVANCE!What brand of flashdrive? I've had the same sort of problems with certain brands of flash drives.Is your USB drive present in Device Manager?Read the following link and TRY the procedures in the "WORKAROUND" section of the article:

    HTTP://support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;297694

When the issue is resolved please let us know what you think resolved your issue.A better explanation written for "humans' MAY be found at this link:

    http://helpdesk.centre.edu/view.php?type=doc&id=56i followed what dahlarbear recommended. I've changed the drive from E: to F: and it did appear. Thanks very much guys!

I tried accessing the  drive E: after what i have done but said its not accessible.. Anyways my problems are sold although i do wonder why what happened to drive E...

BTW i am using a creative muvo player...

I have a Dell Demension 2100 I've had for a number of years.  Over the years it became really slow and I felt it was completely "JUNKED" up with needless things I'd accumulated over the years.  I chose to have my hard drive completely wiped out and REINSTALL my operating system.  First time I had no trouble reformatting and getting back on track.  A while later, I chose to do this again.  This time I get an error stating "error formatting hard drive".  I haven't fooled with the computer in a few months and have since just PURCHASED a new laptop.  Now I would like to fix the computer and give it to a friend who is without.  The error MESSAGE does not specify exactly what the error is.  I know nothing about computers.  When I begin formatting I'm asked if I want to dedicate all memory to the operating system...I say yes.....Don't know.  Anyway...is there something else I should be doing or is the hard drive bad and need a new one?  Thank you in advance for any advice!!  We need to know what are exact words of your error, and at what point of your installation it happens.
You may double check steps for Windows ME clean install here:
http://wiki.oldos.org/Windows/InstallWinME

I was just curious if an SLI ready card comes with the bridge, or is that SOLD separatly?Well according to the "package CONTENTS" at newegg, none of the SLI cards COME with the bridge.

I better dig deeper.All the SLI MoBo's I have bought have come with the bridge. I have never GOTTEN but one bridge from TigerDirect.com with a card purchase because I complained...The SLi-bridge comes with the motherboard always and with the card sometimes.Guess I never THOUGHT about the mobo. Thanks guys.

i have the most frustrating problem. Any time i play any game or even when using windows media player (playing music) while it SHOWS its visuals i get an extreme sound stutter along with a massive drop in frame rate. The mouse pointer also will be very twitchy while moving it. The weird thing ive noticed is if i minimize whatever game im playing, the sound will not stutter and play smoothly in the background. Also it has worked a total of two times where the system works and runs games smoothly but only for a matter of couple days then the problem arises again. I have done all of the following as different forums have led me to believe certain things were at fault:
-Installed latest sound drivers for realtek audio 97
-Installed latest Directx 9.0
-Installed latest ati drivers and also rolled back to multiple PREVIOUS drivers.
-Checked +5V (of power supply) ensuring it does not DIP under +4.75
-have latest nvidia chipset drivers installed.
-Ensured hdd are not stuck in PIO mode.
-Disabled onboard sound in MB BIOS.
-Cleaned system of "dust BUNNIES" (this originally helped and thus the system ran fine for a total of two days before faulting again)
-Have a desk fan blowing directly on cpu area and video card.
-Moved sound hardware accelration to basic settings
-Moved all visual hardware acceleration to basic settings.

At this point im out of things to do to fix it. I play games like EUDEMONS online or counter strike which are not really graphic intensive and my system was able to play counterstrike on medium settings and even doom 3 on lowest settings.

Here is what my system consist of:
Windows XP PRO SP2
Chaintech VNF-250 mb
512MB infineon pc3200
maxtor 120gb,western digital 160gb
Amd 64 3000
Zalman heatsink cpu fan
Generic 500 (claims 500w) P.S that came with case
ATI 9700 Radeon
128MB memory on your ATI 9700 Radeon may be the first problem.
That's why, I believe, when you play your game in part-screen, everything looks good.Check that your fan and heatsink is installed correctly on the CPU
THAT is exactly what happens when an chip OVERHEATS. So when running intensive stuff it will clock down and cause your stuff to get slower.
don't believe me? -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxNUK3U73SI   (this is many years old though =)

Hello, all.  I am not the most computer-savvy person out there, but I know a good deal, but obviously not enough when it came to a NEW HARD DRIVE.  I decided to go for a SATA drive instead of an IDE.  I moved all the files I wanted onto a slave IDE drive, and then unplugged it so I don't do anything to it (I record music, so all my Pro Tools sessions and pictures are on there...they're really all I wanted to keep).  I ordered a Western Digital 250 GB drive off of Newegg, however, it was listed as OEM, so all I got was the hard drive.  NOTHING else.  I was able to procure a SATA connector, and upon making the proper connection, nothing happened.  The computer doesn't seem to recognize it.  I connected the original OS drive back in order to boot up the motherboard CD in an attempt to install any drivers that I could, but it tells me that I have SATA available on my motherboard.  That's all it's telling me.  I don't have my computer in front of me at the moment but I will list what I can.

Gigabyte nVidia Nforce 250 Chipset
AMD Athlon 64 2.0 ghz
2.0 GB of RAM

That's all I know off the top of my head that I think holds relevance.  If you need more, please let me know.  But I have been throwing things around in frustration for hours, because I can't figure out how to get the computer to recognize the SATA drive so I can install Windows on it.  I read in my motherboard manual a way to install it, but it requires a floppy drive.  Is that the only way to get it done?  Also, I noticed that there are two ports on the drive:  a data port, and a power port.  Problem is, I can only find the data port on the motherboard.  Should I also have the power port somewhere?  It seems kind of mean that a motherboard will provide the data connection, but no way to power it up.  Sorry for the long post, but it was as specific as I could get.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!If you are going to install an OS on it check both Gigabytes and WD's site for the drivers.

The power connection probably isn't on the MBoard but coming from the PSU...if it has no SATA power connectors then you will need a 4 pin Molex to SATA adapter to hook it up.

P.S. Double check the MBoard driver CD...sometimes they call the SATA drivers RAID drivers why i don't know but if they're for your MBoard they should work.

Ok. First time posting, but I'm desperate for a cure.
I know this is a very general problem, but I'm hoping someone might be able to somehow narrow down what the problem could be coming from.

Computer Specs:
P4 3.00 ghz (w/ hyperthreading)
Asus P5P5l2 mobo
PNY Geforce 6800 GS (factory overclocked)
1MB RAM
Audigy 2 ZS soundcard

Problem:
Well this computer was working just perfectly about a year ago. Flawless, running Guild Wars, Battlefield 2, ETC at very playable frames per second. I had to leave it alone for about 3 or so weeks and when I started to use it again, it just felt terribly slow, even after defragmenting, memory testing, and cleaning out some useless programs. So I opted to reformat. Using Windows XP x86, everything seems fine but now Guild Wars and Battlefield 2 are still unplayeably slow. Pretty much any game I try to play is just painfully slow, except for Starcraft. I reformatted once again. Same issues. Now I'm utterly confused at what the problem could be.

Attempts at fixing:
In the device manager, I've found all necessary drivers so that there are no unknown drivers.
Reinstalled the LATEST directx files, as well as the latest nvidia drivers.
Swapped out the GeForce 6800 GS with my BROTHER's (exact same card). Same benchmark score as my ORIGINAL card. (My brother's computer is working perfectly with either his or my card so the card shouldn't be the issue).
Did memory tests, changed hard drives, looked around the bios (no problems I could see).

That is about all the things that I've tried doing, with no avail or even a slight increase in fps. I get the same benchmark scores with 3dMark06 -- 175X. The scores that most people are getting with similar computer specs is 2000 to almost 3000.

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

Forgot to mention, I'm using a netgear USB wifi adapter (I really DOUBT it can cause the computer to slow down, but I really have no idea)Open it up, clean it out.
Use this guide to help.
Also, check all connections inside the case, make sure everything that needs to be connected is nice and tight.
Re-seat components if necessary.

Does anyone have experience of the adapter shown on this SITE.   Do they really perform to spec?

ThanksI use this adapter all the time in my shop for DATA recovery and backups. I love it, never have a problem.

The only thing I don't like about it though is the 2.5" connector for LAPTOP drives...it doesn't have a pin 1 marker so you're always guessing as to which way the adapter goes on the drive. other than that, it's a pretty GOOD product.curious... how is this better than an hdd enclosure?
UNLESS you are in a shop and have to deal w/ different types of harddrives??Yes, that's it, I have ATA, UATA, Sata and laptop hdd's to play with.

V.

Hi All
I recently added two additional FANS to my case. I had none before and my temp stay low enough but since summer is coming (live in NZ) and though it is better to be save.
Since I have added them my speakers pick up a buzzing sound interference, and it only happens when the volume is set to the start 1/4 region.
So only when it is fairly low volume level.
It picks up this  interference all the time even if they are not working, only need to be turned on.

My speaker info: Logitech X - 530, surround 5.1

My computer info:
OS NAME   Microsoft Windows XP Professional
Version   5.1.2600 Service Pack 2 Build 2600
System Type   X86-based PC
Processor   x86 Family 15 Model 67 Stepping 3 AuthenticAMD ~3013 Mhz
Processor   x86 Family 15 Model 67 Stepping 3 AuthenticAMD ~3013 Mhz
BIOS Version/Date   Phoenix Technologies, LTD ASUS M2N-SLI DELUXE ACPI BIOS Revision 1003, 8/05/2007
SMBIOS Version   2.4
Locale   New Zealand
Hardware Abstraction Layer   Version = "5.1.2600.2180 (xpsp_sp2_rtm.040803-2158)"
Total Physical Memory   2,048.00 MB[/size]
AVAILABLE Physical Memory   1.51 GB
Total Virtual Memory   2.00 GB
Available Virtual Memory   1.96 GB
Page File Space   3.85 GB

You may want to use some hints from this web page: http://www.epanorama.net/documents/pc/soundcard_tips.htmlJust a little check...MAKE sure the green plug is all the way in I get the same with my logitech r-20's when they're not all the way im...also, mute any devices not in use, (Mic, line in, AUX, modem, etc)

Hope this helps

Kurtis

P.S NZ represent!! lol

Hello all, first time here and hoping I can get some insight. I've RECENTLY ran low-end pc's in my house with no more than 250 watt power supplies. Decided to upgrade once of my pc's with a 450 watt. Worked fine for about 3 days mainly playing online games and browsing the internet. Came home one day and it was shut down. Tried to get it to reboot several times and then heard a loud pop. Power didint come on after that and I put the old 250 watt back in and it ran but nothing came on.

I believe it blew the processor during that so I bout a barebones system from tigerdirect that came with the MB, processor, case and a 450 watt powersupply. Got it put together and again was ABLE to play on it for about 3-4 days but it did have a bad habit of rebooting the pc at random times but would always come back up. After about 5 days, it got to the point where it will still boot up but SHUTS back down before it gets to windows.

I don't want to TAKE a chance of burning the pcu up again but have run out of options what could be causing it.
My only theory, if any has possibly heard this was that my home has an old fuse box that is only 100amps. My lower 250 watt pc still works fine and I run a 2HP COMPRESSOR which I would think is more power then a pc needs. (I'm planning on getting a new breaker box soon ) but was hoping to get the pc running before then.

Any help is appreciated.

ThanksAre you sure it isn't a 60 AMP fuse box?it says it's a 100 amp service box, running 30 amp fuses. The box is just a theory though, I could be way off mark and something else is the prob. Just seems odd I can't get a pc running with a 450 watt power supply but they work fine with a 250 watt.The manuf. and the quality of the PSU's may be a factor here...yeah thanks. I've been reading a lot of posts and started thinking the same thing.

Can anyone reccomend a good psu manufacturer?Antec


http://www.newegg.com/ProductSort/Brand.asp?Brand=1516&name=The-ANTEC-Store-at-NeweggWhile your at it, do yourself (and your computer) a favor and buy an UPS. It can save you many headaches.

I have just built a new system & am having problems with the bios set up. I get all sorts of beep & LED sequences & now & then windows resets the graphics card settings. I have tweaked various settings to get it to run stable & have read tons of info on web sites & forums but still havent found help in simple terms. I have MSI p35 Platinum mobo with intel core2 E6850. 4 gb patriot pc2-6400. 800mhz, (5-5-5-12)2v, silencer 750w Quad crossfire power supply & an ATI saphire HD 2900XT card. I am running windows XP pro sp2. With that board, that CPU and 4G of RAM what NEED would there be for tweaking ? ?
Once changes are made to the BIOS without being in front of the machine it's literally impossible to determine what the issue may be...
I would remove the CMOS battery with the power unplugged for 5 minutes to set the BIOS back to it's factory defaults and go from there...It wont run on default settings at all. According to guy at aria.co.uk where I got the kit I have to set manualy but he didnt know enough about it. Quote from: MarcPhuket on October 21, 2007, 08:14:52 AM

It wont run on default settings at all. According to guy at aria.co.uk where I got the kit I have to set manualy but he didnt know enough about it.

With that board, that CPU and 4G of RAM what need would there be for tweaking ? ?
Once changes are made to the BIOS without being in front of the machine it's literally impossible to determine what the issue may be...
I would remove the CMOS battery with the power unplugged for 5 minutes to set the BIOS back to it's factory defaults and go from there...

Quote from: patio on October 21, 2007, 07:19:23 AM

With that board, that CPU and 4G of RAM what need would there be for tweaking ? ?
Once changes are made to the BIOS without being in front of the machine it's literally impossible to determine what the issue may be...
I would remove the CMOS battery with the power unplugged for 5 minutes to set the BIOS back to it's factory defaults and go from there...

Have laptop that has wireless card. When on vacation logged in with cable high speed  internet and now I am getting the above message. Cannot get laptop to turn on and says that no IDE located. Please helpwell, looks like you might have a bad hard drive. PXE stands for preboot execution environment, which means since it can't find any other boot device, the last THING in the boot order is LAN. So, it's TRYING to find boot INFORMATION over a network and obviously won't find it.

Have you changed any hardware lately? dropped or bumped the laptop a little too hard?no hardware change.  Do not believe it was bumped - know it wasn't dropped. 

Any thoughts?  Seems coincidental that the problem started RIGHT after I had been working off of a LAN cable.  Could it have disable the hard drive??Working off a LAN cable wouldn't disable the hard drive. It sounds like it is just coincidence. Laptops lead a hard life. Their hard drives get hot as well as jolted. I take it there is not a non-bootable floppy left in the drive (if there is one)? Is it in warranty? A repair store might be the next stop...

Last night I SHUT my computer down in Clone mode, with my HDTV as the PRIMARY display. Now, today, I can't select my computer monitor in the display settings. It won't even show up, and I can't select clone, or change the primary display. What can I do to get the screen to display on my computer monitor again? Thanks! Oh, and I have an Nvidia Geforce 7600 GT.

If this is XP, or Vista, did you try System Restore?Sorry, forgot to put that in, RUNNING on Windows XP. I have not tried a system restore, I always hate doing that. Is there no other way for my computer to recognize my monitor? What is clone mode ? ?UMM.. It clones your desktop onto two monitors. You may want to try re-installing your video drivers, Quote

I have not tried a system restore, I always hate doing that

No, the monitor does not display in the device manager. I do not believe it came with any drivers

I have a basic hp pavilion t3259, and i want to UPGRADE it.
I am not sure what motherboard i have, and when i SEARCH "hp pavilion t3259" on google, i dont get much smarter, so i ask you guys.
If you want to know the specs:
Win xp sp2
Amd athlon 3400+ 2,2ghz
Nvidia GEFORCE 6600 256mb
1,5 gb RAM (upgraded from 1gb)

So where can i find out what motherboard i have?

ThanxWell i think your best bet is LOOKING on the actual mobo .......

and if your looking to upgrade it ..... i would also look into getting a new case .......

TonyWhat is "actual Mobo" ?motherboard.  Oh Duh  THANX Tony!Motherboard manufacturer's name: MSI MS-7184


HP/Compaq name: AmethystM-GL6E


-------------------------->LookHereWhy Robert why ...

Im trying to get this person in the know with his motherboard ..... lol 


Quote from: TonyRichens on October 22, 2007, 04:00:04 AM

Why Robert why ...

Im trying to get this person in the know with his motherboard ..... lol 

All RIGHT so hears my case, one evening after a long game of World of Warcraft I left my Toshiba satellite 1135 computer to stand by, shutting the lid I then dozed off to sleep. Awakening the next morning my brother slammed OPEN the door looking for his 15lb pound binder, after finding it he throws it onto my desk ontop of my computers lid, and if that isn't bad three keys got crushed in the process. looking down to my pc its backlight wouldnt come on on startup. Any suggestions will do i just miss being able to see =p Ram is dislodged very easily in a laptop.

First thing I would try is removing and
reseating the ram.and after you do that, throw the 15 lb. binder at your brother's head.

kidding, of course.

if reseating the ram doesn't work, the shock might have damaged some other parts. is the lcd screen itself fine? I'd be surprised if it was, since in the process 3 keys were broken.oh no lol im typing on it right now =p uhh the only PROBLEM is the backlight...and trust me i threw more than a 15lb binder at him (just kidding)you're using it now?

what exactly do you mean by your backlight? your backlight is behind your LCD panel, and shines light through to make everything visible. if your backlight was out you wouldn't be able to see anything at all, unless you have an external monitor hooked up.Backlight as in the screen is visable only when a light is shined on it =p which lemme tell ya it isnt pleasent haveing a lamp resting on your computer and still trying to mantain it lol. =D
 well, if you feel like you're up to it, replacing the backlight is possible. Call toshiba first and get a price for a NEW backlight. if you can afford it, it would be ALOT simpler to replace the whole LCD panel. meaning, the panel inside the LCD screen casing. you need to take the whole assembly off, remove the front bezel, and take out the LCD panel. a new LCD panel can cost in the range of 200-400 bucks.

the age of the laptop will definetely determine whether the work and the money involved is WORTH it...is it a newer laptop? or is it getting up there in years?

you can also search around on google and possibly find a repair or disassembly guide for that particular model.Heh-fo the laptop itslf is about three to four years old, i did call toshiba and they do not have any replacement parts availible which kinda sux so i think im just going to buy a dell desktop instead thx for all your help...

I have this KEYBOARD that has buttons that open FIREFOX, search, help, EJECT the CD drive, pause/play, etc. I used to have Vista and all these buttons worked. Now I GOT XP and only a few of them WORK. Do I need drivers or something to make all of them work? Quote

Do I need drivers or something to make all of them work?

Just built a new machine using an Nvidia 610 motherboard and an 8800 graphics card!  I followed the directions and placed the graphics card in the slot closest to the processor and upon boot up the graphics card will not respond.  I had it in the middle blue slot so I moved it to the top slot and restarted and the computer found the card and it work fine until i rebooted and now it shows failure to start!      Also showing a CODE 10....Have reloaded drivers 10 times
Your card may not be properly seated, make sure your card is seated into the PCIe? slot firmly and completely..You may also have a damaged card..process of elimination can help..Also if this board has a two PCIe SETUP for games/SLI you may check to see if the power supply is 420+ and you may have to plug a mini MOLEX connector in near the PCIe slots..

Let me know a few more details if I'm off track here..what board? what type graphics card-brand GT-GTS? OS system-etc....

Have or do you have a spare computer to try the card in?Umm.. this is not an SLi motherboard. You only have a single choice when it COMES to which slot to insert the graphics card into.

Maybe you should ask for help, if you're not sure what to do when it comes to actually constructing a computer.

I recently was forced to reformat a relatively new LAPTOP.  After the reformat, my speakers work fine.  When I plug my headphones in, the computer recognizes them.  I can test them in control PANEL and hear the test in my headphones.  But that's it, I hear absolutely nothing else with my headphones.  Any ideas?first, get yourself another working pair of headphones and connect to your computer and test. let US KNOW how it goes.

it is probably something wrong with your current headphones IF your computer's speakers and sound card are good and in working order.

And what brand is the headphones you use and how old are they?Does same thing happen, no matter, if you use FRONT, or rear jack?

I recently upgraded my PC this past September. I had purchased a new AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200, an Asus Motherboard with AM2 Chip Support, A Nvidia GeForce 7600 GS - 256 MB - for a PCI x16, and two sticks of A-Data 512 MB 240-Pin, DDR2 RAM. I swapped out everything except for hard drive, Optical Drive, power supply - 520W, and a case fan. Also, I have it running Windows XP HOME with SP2. It was working great for a while. I was able to play games and everything. Then a couple week-ends ago, it started acting up. At first it would just freeze up on me in the middle of a game or even just on the desktop. I would just shrug it off, reboot, and continue. But it KEPT getting worse. It would happen more often, sometimes right after Windows boot up. LATER, I went into BIOS to set default settings, changing back my CPU frequency to normal (I only overclocked it from 200 Mhz to 220). But that didn't help. Other times it would freeze while in BIOS. Also, sometimes after I started it up, it would shut off on me within 1-2 seconds. Now, I can turn it on, but nothing appears on the screen. No BIOS, no Windows, no beeps, nothing. I have no idea what could be the problem. I tried resetting CMOS by switching the jumpers on the motherboard. It worked once...I was able to get into Windows, but then it froze again and now we're back to nothing. I was just wondering if anyone could give me some insight on what might be wrong. Thanks.Your problem is probably your CPU overheating.

You need to take it out clean it and the heatsink and
reapply thermal paste.

Watch the below video....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVJ5ZEbf6F4Did exactly that and still nothing. Not sure if this is worth mentioning, but here goes - In case it HELPS, whenever my PC is on, I can't open the DVD drive or Turn off the PC by holding down the power button. Since the problem, I've been having to switch off power completely with the I/O switch on my Power Supply. Also, my friend mentioned to me that it might be a problem with my HD or possibly the RAM. The RAM is brand new and the HD is about 1-2 years old now. But, I wouldn't be surprised. Hope this helps.How old is the PSU and who is it made by ? ?The PSU is only about 2 years and a month or two old. It's made by Apevia. And like I said, it's 520W.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16817148009The first customer review stated " it died a quick death with no warning"...
At any rate borrow a known working one of the same wattage or greater and swap it in there to eliminate the PSU as the culprit.That might be a bit of a problem. Is there any way to test the other peripherals first?Not accurately if you are having power issues.

MemTest is a free DLoad and will test your RAM...

Free DIAGNOSTICS for your hard drives are available from the HDD manuf. site...

DXDiag is included with Windows and will test the video...

But i would still do the above with the PSU.I thought I had stated my current situation before, but to recap, I can't even get into windows let alone the BIOS settings. I turn it on and nothing happens. I know about memtest and all those, but I can't perform the operations. I guess my only result is to try and swap out parts until something clicks. Anyway, thanks for the help.PSU first...

Hey everyone

Ive been having some issues with my sound , when ever i get 2 or 3 minutes into a basic mp3 of avi video file , my computers sound goes all echo fuzzy and distorted .... i actually changed around sound cards and am now using a basic realtek for my sound , i had to unplug my 5.1 speakers because the sound was unbearable ...... i changed them round and im still getting the same thing , ive uninstall ed all the all trust sound drivers and disabled anything that could be conflicting with it , i know its not a speaker problem because i've tried 2 sets of speakers and i get the same thing . I have been having issues with my 5.1 soundcard since ive had it , i get into about a hour of audio and every fast forwards the video and sound COMPLETELY screw up , ive uploaded a sound preview of what it sounds like ...... im open to all suggestions on this , if i haven't got sound i haven't got film ,or music , which is a big no no , i need my sound running GUYS and girls , ive tried everything i know to get this working . please help .

Ps. when ever the sound does tend to MESS up , my computer also hangs extremely bad ........ its not possible to move the mouse without it vaulting out of control ....

I want to focus on sorting my reltek sound out ...... if my 5.1 seems to work along the way great.... 

Thanks for reading


http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/10/16/1516183/Comp.mp3

click the above link and turn your speakers up. Quote

http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/10/16/1516183/Comp.mp3

How long ago did it start? Do you remember any changes done to your computer at that time?

I have been having issues with my 5.1 soundcard since ive had it

I'm sorry to HEAR it Thanks,
Actually it is good that we found out.  In the past we didnt have them checked just got rid of them when they DIED.  Now we at least know why our computers KEEP DYING on us and can do something about it.  Our first computer lasted for many years (packard bell, win 95) but ever since living in this house they have not lasted more than a couple years and never that LONG without problems along the way.

So I guess it is good & bad news all in one.A good solution would be a UPS unit...un-interruptable power supply.
It won't fix the house wiring but it will provide a more consistent electrical supply to the computer,

W98SE, 686AMIBIOS AT74,1998, AMD800Mghzcpu.  Has onboard video, SOUND, ethernet and usb. Ampron brand board.
During bootup the pc stops at the floppy drive. No disk in drive. Keeps checking it. No display on monitor. Not able to get into BIOS setup. Nothing.  Already tried different floppy drive, different floppy cable, no floppy drive (get 8 beeps when I do this).  I can't get past the FD check.  Any possible solutions?  Or is the board shot?  It was working FINE when I first got it from a friend. I added an AGP video card, but it worked fine with this card. At first I COULD hit the reset button and get it going, then that stopped working.  So now it sits, checking and rechecking the FD.  Any suggestions? Travel to bootdisk.com and DLoad a Win98SE bootdisk...with CDRom support is the one you want.
Unzip that file to a clean floppy to create a bootable floppy.
Re-boot and let it run thru things.
On the second re-boot see if the system will let you into the BIOS.
If not replace the CMOS battery...part #CR 2032 about the size of a dime located on the MBoard.
AS always when working inside the case make sure all power sources are removed and take anti-static precautions.
If this doesn't work let us know...what about disabling "floppy SEEK on boot" in the BIOS? I guess that wouldn't work if the CMOS battery was shot? Did you mean "Amptron" motherboard? 9 years old? Uh-oh! Could well be the board.



I tried a W98SE emergency boot disk.  Could not get into to anything.  With this disk I get 2 beeps.  And yes, you're right, I meant Amptron. Quote from: patio on OCTOBER 14, 2007, 08:30:45 AM

Re-boot and let it run thru things.
On the second re-boot see if the system will let you into the BIOS.
If not replace the CMOS battery...part #CR 2032 about the size of a dime located on the MBoard.
AS always when working inside the case make sure all power sources are removed and take anti-static precautions.
If this doesn't work let us know...

I think this is the right place to ask this....i have a guardian ATX power supply with an MSI core cell motherboard...The power supply just kinda died while i was using it....i took in the power supply and bought a new ONE of the same thing and it did the exact same thing!! anybody know what could be wrong? Although it's not impossible for two PSU's to fail in the same computer it is a little suspicious. My immediate THOUGHT is that maybe it's possible your either ENCOUNTERING SURGES and/or other power brown outs that are causing it to fail prematurely.

I'd suggest getting a different surge protector (preferably a higher quality one), not a cheap one that you find on the shelf at a grocery store and/or if it's in the budget maybe a UPS with a surge protection.
I'd also look at other PSU brands...i believe guardian's are Chinese budget units and not all that reliable.
A DECENT PSU depending on wattage and features should start at about 40 bucks and up.can anyone reccomend a good power supply?I personally don't make recommendations. What I suggest is instead read the reviews of power supplies on popular pages such as NewEgg.

Link to their PSU page

That's just my thought, other users are free to give you their recommendations.PC Power and Cooling

One of my reference sites...

I recently added dual boot with XP to my vista COMPUTER, unfortunately my manufacturer does not have driver support for XP and I do not have the time to find them. Is their any free-way to merge two partitions? Also, if I format my XP partition, will it also format my C:? I cannot have my C: formatted along with my xp partition...What manuf. does not have hardware support for XP ? ?
It's been around for awhile now...
If XP is on the D: partition and you format it it will not AFFECT the Vista install...except you will have to edit the boot.ini file so the XP choice no longer shows up at boot time...
As far as reclaiming the space on D: you can either just use it for storage or use a third party partition tool to merge the partitions...however i would not trust this method unless you have a complete system backup in PLACE should anything go awry. Quote from: patio on October 17, 2007, 08:55:23 AM

As far as reclaiming the space on D: you can either just use it for storage or use a third party partition tool to merge the partitions...

What manuf. does not have hardware support for XP ? ?
It's been around for awhile now...

Hello all I have a problem with a computer a friend gave me. He gave me the DELL Dimension 2100 and when I got it, it worked but I only had a small hard drive around so I installed windows 98 on the hard drive and my PLAN was to get a larger hard drive and install XP on it. So I got the hard drive and installed it into the computer and since I had to go to school I asked my brother to install xp. after school he told me that the computer turned on showed some "dos stuff" and then wouldn't turn on. Now the computer will not turn on but you can hear the power supply fan, and the lights are lighted on the motherboard and network card.

Any Help is appreciated!

-MikeMaybe your video card or monitor stopped working then. Make sure the card wasnt KNOCKED loose during the HD installation and just for fun, make sure the monitor is still plugged in. Thats the kind of mistake I would make.The monitor still works because im using it right now, and the video card is firmly in place so I doubt anything happened to it. THANK you for the response though. I did try another power supply in the computer and I get the same results as before.

-MikeWhat type of CD did your brother use to attempt to install XP on this machine ? ? Quote from: patio on OCTOBER 18, 2007, 05:45:06 PM

What type of CD did your brother use to attempt to install XP on this machine ? ?

Hi Y'all
I was wondering if anyone knows if there is a dual core processor on the market that is compatible for the 478 socket.I have heard that there is a few but I have tried to find out but  still cannot find anything on them.
I currently have :Asrock P4i65G M/Board with apogee 7600 GTX Grafix card,2GB of crucial RAM,3GHz intel pentium 4 HT cpu
The hyperthreading is supposed to simulate dual processors but it still does not compare to any of the  dual cores that i have used previously.
any advice would be most appreciated amny thanx in advavncenope.

any intel multiple core processor will be socket 775. with 478 you're pretty much stuck with either celeron or P4. To reiterate what has been said, to get a much better CPU you will need a new board.
Socket 478 has a choice between older P4s, or the Celeron series.
Also, there is no such thing as a 7600GTX graphics card.There is a Nvida 7600 GS though I bought one not so long ago...

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=119345572 Quote from: Calum on October 10, 2007, 01:41:17 PM

To reiterate what has been said, to get a much better CPU you will need a new board.
Socket 478 has a choice between older P4s, or the Celeron series.
Also, there is no such thing as a 7600GTX graphics card.

hmmmmm i believe that 478 might have been discontinued. not sure tho.