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I PURCHASED a used legacy Pentax Pocketjet (I) printer.  The only data communication with it is via IR.  It functioned properly for the previous owner.  None of my computers had IR, so I purchased an IR USB bridge.  I have installed the requisite drivers for printer and bridge, but cannot get the printer to work.  Computer(s) keep telling "This document FAILED to print."
   I have tried two computers and have been futzing with it all day.  Printer driver used (per printer manual) is HP laserjet IIP, OS is XP.  Bridge is http://www.pccables.com/70622.html.
   I am thinking that I am not identifying the proper printer port, though I have tried USB, LPT, COM, IR options.  (IR beams are within one foot and lined up)
   Can anyone help?


All HARDWARE is detected and installed under device MANAGER?

I HAVE AN EXTERNAL DRIVE HOOKED UP AND MY PC RECOGNIZES THAT IT IS THERE BUT WILL NOT ASSIGN A LETTER TO IT, THEREFORE I CANNOT OPEN THAT DRIVE??Open Disc Management. What happens there?WHERE WOULD I TRY THAT?Start - Run - diskmgmt.msc
THANKS, I WILL TRYYou can turn off the capslock now...It says it is "UNALLOCATED" Quote from: patio on March 09, 2012, 09:17:41 AM

You can turn off the capslock now...

says it is "Unallocated"

It says it is "Unallocated"

Used

I have a FUJITSU Siemens Esprimo P5905 case without the original motherboard and PSU.
Is this case compatible with other (non Fujitsu Siemens) micro ATX motherboards and PSU's?


A retailer told me, that this is a BTX case. Looking at the pictures at the manufacturer's website, It rather looks
like an ATX. The manual of the original motherboard (link) also says, it's a micro ATX board.
So I'm a bit confused now, I'm not a hardware expert. I want someone clearly tell me that this is an ATX or BTX case.Its a Micro-ATX case but with a really odd power supply placement. You can install any M-ATX motherboard you like provided have you the proprietary Fujitsu power supply.


BTX opens on the right side, ATX on the left. Micro-ATX has 4 expansion slots, ATX has 6.
ONE of the hallmarks of a BTX motherboard is that its CPU socket is SLANTED at a 45° angle.

What a BTX motherboard looks like. Note that the expansion ports are to the right of the printer ports, USB ports, Ethernet ports, etc. Your motherboard is clearly not BTX.




Usually an ATX case would have the power supply at the top. However, in your funky proprietary case, the power supply is smaller than a typical ATX power supply and is mounted on top of the motherboard.Thanks for the reply. There's some free space in the top left corner of the case. I do not know whether there is some kind of power that fits in there.An ATX power supply might fit there, but evidently your case was DESIGNED to have the power supply in that awkward position and the hard drives mounted vertically in an equally awkward position... I wonder who designed this case...

You would have to find a way to make a hole in the case so you can plug it in....Looks like a horrible case. Is that a fan in the front being blocked by the hard drive? And do you really want to cramp a PSU in there? Where is all the WARM air going to go to?

Spend 30 bucks on a quality Cooler Master case for M-ATX form-factor so you don't bake your hardware...Your Fujitsu
That's not the OP's computer:
http://uk.ts.fujitsu.com/rl/servicesupport/techsupport/ProfessionalPC/ESPRIMO/P/EsprimoP5905.htm 

Sorry, but it does show a mix of ATX & BTX.  The motherboard is a mirror of an ATX, notice how it's mounted on the left side instead of the right.  The case is also a mirror of the ATX case.   Dell has some like this.

The Fujitsu is also a modification of the BTX standard, where the psu is at the bottom.

The first company to implement BTX was Gateway Inc, followed by Dell and MPC.  Future development of BTX retail products by Intel was canceled in September 2006.  Many companies now use proprietary form factors.

Quote from: Computer_Commando on March 08, 2012, 06:22:22 AM

Sorry, but it does show a mix of ATX & BTX.  The motherboard is a mirror of an ATX, notice how it's mounted on the left side instead of the right.
The Fujitsu is also a modification of the BTX standard, where the psu is at the bottom.

i have never posted on a FORUM before but today i need help from som1 other than a retard on tech support. i just bought a alienware m14x a few day ago. with 2000$ i got very decent hardware. but i cant play games on direct x11. it iether just doesnt give me the option or it says could not load game. my laptop say my video card is RUNNING FINE and i checked that it has the requirments for it. can somebody help?Not all games support DirectX11.

What games say they can't load?

You tried updating drivers?shogun 2 wont load at all EMPIRE total war i can play but it wont let me play above medium graphicshttp://forums.totalwar.com/showthread.php/19252-Shogun-2-doesn-t-start-in-Directx-11-mode

Quote

Yep. So far only optimus kinds of SETUPS had this issue show up.

From the looks I'd say the nVidia chip is not detected by STW2 and therefore the restriction to DX10 and lower since the Intel IGP has no DX11.

Has the DAYS of the mouse keyboard a bygone age..will the moblie WIN over the pcWINDMILLS, MY FRIEND! WINDMILLS! It's good to SEE you back!
Quote from: epoh on March 10, 2012, 05:23:27 PM

Has the days of the mouse keyboard a bygone age..will the moblie win over the pc

I have a HP NETSERVER LH II, the thing will boot too Netware 4.11.  Thing is that I got this from a radio station an the music was backed up too it.  I need to see if there is anything worth keeping.  Also, I wanted to put a more modern OS on it as well.  However, once I changed it to boot to the disk drive it just launches Netware.  As far as I know you had to have a Server Client to Acess the Server.  Supposeably netware partitons cant be really read in windows.  I was PROBABLY going to put a copy of Windows Server 03 on the one drive an store the orginal boot driveAppearntly, Hiens Ultimate Boot Disk doesnt work with the unit ether.  Just if anyone else was going to recommend it.You have to go into the BIOS 1st and select CDROM as the 1st boot device...
Course on an old NETSERVER it may not be an option...unless you built the Hirens CD wrong it should be bootable...
If you SIMPLY burned the ISO then thats the issue right there...coupled with the above...I selected it too boot as the first device, least I think that it is.  It shows it that way in the post.  I burned it useing the ISO :/Why don't you view the contents of the drive with a LINUX live CD instead of demolishing the contents by installing Windows?

There are some Linux versions which can work with NWFS.It doesnt help, if I cant boot from the disk drive at this time.Use IMGBurn to create the CD...The Hiens disk or the Linux one?Whichever one you want to be bootable...I dont think the drive is set right in the BIOS.  We have another one of these machines at are other location, an I could boot fine from the way I setup the other Hiens disk.***sigh***

That would mean one of two things...
The BIOS doesn't support booting to CD 1st...or
You didn't press F10 to "SAVE CHANGES and exit" when you changed the settings...It does support booting to cd's.  The other unit I put knoppix in an would boot then stop.  I did save the changes it went from target 0 to 5.  can someone help me :?  I dont really know if that is set right or what.here is the screen I get when it fully boots: http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o591/ryuk018/netware.pngDo I have to make a client too access the stuff an what not?

I thought about useing this probably as a print server or somethin.  I WANTED to put Netware 3.12 on it, thing is that I make the DOS Partiton an then launch the Netware disks.   I havent done this for a while.  Do I need too install the drivers during install?  Is where I am haveing issues :/ QUOTE from: Ryuk on March 06, 2012, 08:40:15 AM

I wanted to put Netware 3.12 on it

I should have the license too this one.  Yeah, it is legal.  All floppy based

Nothing, I got it from the Radio Station my father works for.  They no longer use most of this stuff, so I end up with it

Nothing, I got it from the Radio Station my father works for.  They no longer use most of this stuff, so I end up with it

Good morning all! Long time no see.
Well, I've had my trusty Dell E1505 laptop fora  few years now and it is showing its age. The case has started cracking, the hard drive no longer meets todays space demands (I never thought I'd use all 120GBs), 2GB of RAM just doesn't do it for me, 30 minute and diminishing battery life is terrible, and despite the fact that I specialize in making old computers run as fast as possible, I just don't get the speed I want anymore.

So, I've decided I need to buy a new laptop rather than upgrading and replacing parts. But! I've not been keeping up with my knowledge on new technology, and this is where I need your help.

I've made a query on Newegg to get me all laptops with dedicated cards, 4GB of RAM (I'll upgrade to 6GB if necessary), 450GB+HDD, and a few other specifics that I want.
I know that if I go Intel for a processor, I want an i7. How do AMD A-Series, Phenom II triple-core, and Athlon II dual-core compare to these? Honestly, I never followed AMD's developments very well so I'm not very familiar with what they can do.

I know the minimum nVidia card I would consider is the GeForceGT 555M, but I'm really thinking about the 630M (and a minimum of 1gb dedicated graphics menory). How do the AMD Radeon HD series compare to these? Where do they match up, and where do the differences start? What about the Radeon HD 6660M, 6750M, 6650M -- where do these start to fall in comparison?

And now the question of brands... Acer, ASUS, Dell, HP, Lenovo, Samsung, Sony, Toshiba -- what are your personal preferences and what attracts you to them? Have you interacted with their customer service? How sturdy are they? (I'd really like to find a manufacturer that is using aluminum casing, but this is not something that has taken off yet).
I'd like to hear personal and technical opinions of these. I know I'm asking a wide variety of questions, I'm prepared to take it all in as disorganized as it will be.
I'll be researching them on the side as well once I figure out some better parameters to research.

For those of you who know me and are wondering what I've been up to: I just got accepted to the University of Idaho: The Lionel Hampton School of Music (sounds fancy, eh?) I'll be attending in August of this year starting out in the study of Music Education with my major instrument being organ. (I have some audition recordings on Youtube, just Youtube "Jesse Zylstra" and click on the third and forth results). Got my degree in Network Administration as well. Quote from: Zylstra on February 18, 2012, 02:58:39 PM

...
1.  So, I've decided I need to buy a new laptop rather than upgrading and replacing parts. But! I've not been keeping up with my knowledge on new technology, and this is where I need your help.

2.  I've made a query on Newegg to get me all laptops with dedicated cards, 4GB of RAM (I'll upgrade to 6GB if necessary), 450GB+HDD, and a few other specifics that I want.
I know that if I go Intel for a processor, I want an i7. How do AMD A-Series, Phenom II triple-core, and Athlon II dual-core compare to these? Honestly, I never followed AMD's developments very well so I'm not very familiar with what they can do.

3.  I know the minimum nVidia card I would consider is the GeForceGT 555M, but I'm really thinking about the 630M (and a minimum of 1gb dedicated graphics menory). How do the AMD Radeon HD series compare to these? Where do they match up, and where do the differences start? What about the Radeon HD 6660M, 6750M, 6650M -- where do these start to fall in comparison?

4.  And now the question of brands... Acer, ASUS, Dell, HP, Lenovo, Samsung, Sony, Toshiba -- what are your personal preferences and what attracts you to them? Have you interacted with their customer service? How sturdy are they? (I'd really like to find a manufacturer that is using aluminum casing, but this is not something that has taken off yet).
I'd like to hear personal and technical opinions of these. I know I'm asking a wide variety of questions, I'm prepared to take it all in as disorganized as it will be.  I'll be researching them on the side as well once I figure out some better parameters to research...

I've made a query on Newegg to get me all laptops with dedicated cards, 4GB of RAM (I'll upgrade to 6GB if necessary), 450GB+HDD, and a few other specifics that I want.
I know that if I go Intel for a processor, I want an i7. How do AMD A-Series, Phenom II triple-core, and Athlon II dual-core compare to these? Honestly, I never followed AMD's developments very well so I'm not very familiar with what they can do.

Currently, ATI names each card by generation, series, and by performance.
The first number is the generation number (e.g. 5000) and is related to the chipset used by the video card.
The second number indicates the series quality in the generation, starting from:

    0400 to 0600 at entry level, for media and home theatre,
    0700 for low intensity video games (typically using older graphics engines, or widespread games, such as Starcraft 2 and World of Warcraft) or high-intensity games with lowered settings, and
    0800 for high-intensity games, such as Crysis or Far Cry 2.
    0900 was a special denotation, first used on the Radeon 5970, relating to a dual chip or internal ATI CrossFire card. However, beginning with the Northern Islands GPU series, this denotation is now used to further differentiate between a generation's most powerful single chip offerings. Dual chip video cards are, as of February 2012, represented by the third digit being 9, as seen in the dual-GPU Radeon 6990 video card.

I've started to get the impression that nearly every laptop manufacturer is equal nowadays -- same "deals", same warranty, same support, same hardware availability, &etc. (Except Samsung, which can stick with making televisions).

What is the top AMD laptop CPU? The question I really want to ask is: What is the AMD equivalent of an i7?

1.  ... I know I don't want to go with Intel. I know of the improvements they have made, but they still lack that "oomph".
2.  At the moment, this is one of my top pics on the Intel side:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834215266
3.  Still researching and trying to figure out what the minimum AMD processor I want is.

Intel wants to recapture the graphics market.

These are conflicting statements.
1. You don't want Intel
2.  Your top pick is Intel.
3.  You want AMD.

Do some more research on the latest Intel I-series integrated graphics, Intel Sandy Bridge.  It's nothing like you are used to.  Sandy Bridge will soon be superceded by Ivy Bridge.  Intel wants to recapture the graphics market.
http://news.cnet.com/8301-13924_3-20109037-64/sandy-bridge-driver-update-boosts-windows-game-performance/

..
(Off topic: Remember when Western Digital used to be bad? Ha! Fun days.)
I've maybe found some more reasonable deals, care to look?
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=684476&CatId=4939
7200RPM HDD, 1GBDDR5 AMD Radeon HD 6490M, pretty *censored* good battery life if they were being honest. Right on my max price.
...

Similarly, all PCIe 3.0 cards will plug into PCIe 1.x- and PCIe 2.x-capable slots and operate at the highest performance levels supported by those configurations.

hey, ordering my own-built cpu today but cant decide what one of these to get



prices:

the 570 is 376 euro
the 580 is 500 euro

but it seems to me that the 570 being overclocked performs better..?

Sinc
phallan
It really depends what you want to do.  You've got to figure the prices on these cards will be consideribly LESS over time and most games made today won't utilize tomorrow's technology until, well tomorrow.  I personally would LOOK for two of last year's model and SLI them - two SLI cards for cheaper than 1 new card usually run at the same or better performance.

I am also one to avoid OC parts, because while they are MANIPULATED to get more power, they also come with more hardware built in to distribute that heat and consume more electricity.  You risk more that can go wrong, and you are putting more stress on the card which can shorten its life.How many more times are you going to be asking these questions? You must have 3 or 4 threads on what videocard to pick by now. One =)One what ? ?With the OPs logic... the GTX 570 would overclock to GTX 580 clocks, but the GTX 580 would overclock to 590 clocks...
But we're looking at top of the line equipment here... I would wait for a while and hope that nVidia releases their GTX 600 series soon; they already have the GT 635M and 630M out for their laptop line...
Whatever you do, don't end up like this person, who got so mad that he exchanged a GTX 570 for a GTX 470 (you heard me right) when it came with a non-reference cooler instead of a reference one. Apparently he was satisfied at the end.
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=d418703afed8ee4eeedae7754561eb2f&t=1594813&page=3Thank you for all your answers, guys! I ended up GETTING the GTX 580 with Windforce COOLING =)

Is asking a question regarding formatting offensive on this site. No it isn't...
And if you were BANNED you wouldn't be able to POST...

Here  is your original TOPIC.

I have two CD/DVD writers on my pc (one internal and one external) and up until yesterday both were working fine and have been for a very long time.  For some reason they both have lost their ability to write.  I have made no major changes to the PC lately but it just happened out of the blue.
I have a HP pavilion a 350n PC running Windows XP Home Version 2002, Service Pack 3.  Both writers are HP, one 300n and the other 556s.
I ran them both through Microsoft's MS Fix It and in both cases I was told "drive is not capable of writing".  Also, when I opened the Properties for the drives there is no tab for RECORDING.
I did a complete scan with both my anti-virus and anti-malware and all was fine.  I did a system restore,  I checked to make sure that the drivers and firmware were up to date, I re-installed Nero, I tried uninstalling both drives in the Device Manager and re-booted, I did a registy edit to make sure they were assigned the proper numbers, and I went to CONTROL Panel/Administrative Tools/Services and made sure the Imapi CD-burn Com was running and set to automatic, all to no avail.
CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME?  Seriously, I am going crazy here.  By the way, I am not a computer whiz, I did most of those things with the help of others on the internet.  Thank you.
Have you tried going to the CD/DVD manufacturer's site and upgrading your writers' firmware? Also, what is the make and model of your CD/DVD writer?

Try this:
Open Device Manager.
Expand DVD/CD-ROM Drives.
Right click on the DVD drive and click Update Driver in the popup menu.
Select "No, not this time" > Next > Install from a list or specific location > Next >
click the box "Search removable media (floppy, cd-rom) to deselect it.
Click the Browse button and navigate to C:\Windows\System32\Drivers.
Click OK > Next.Failure to write means :
- the write LED is out. Kaput. Acabado.  Tried deleting upper and lowerfilter from the registry? http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060While it may evolve to be a fact that the "write" component of the drives may have failed. I am less inclined to see that is likely on TWO at the same instant. So don't shoot the horse just yet. Take the two drives(one at a time) and try them on another computer (not necessary but if the other computer uses different burning software that would be an ADDED bonus)The internal one doesn't need to be actually installed as long as the appropriate cables are selected. Is the internal a SATA or IDE? Before you try the above you could try another burning software. There are a number of free ones available (burnaware is one). Any yellow warnings in device manager?truenorth Quote from: Transfusion on March 13, 2012, 12:08:22 AM

Have you tried going to the CD/DVD manufacturer's site and upgrading your writers' firmware? Also, what is the make and model of your CD/DVD writer?

Try this:
Open Device Manager.
Expand DVD/CD-ROM Drives.
Right click on the DVD drive and click Update Driver in the popup menu.
Select "No, not this time" > Next > Install from a list or specific location > Next >
click the box "Search removable media (floppy, cd-rom) to deselect it.
Click the Browse button and navigate to C:\Windows\System32\Drivers.
Click OK > Next.

While it may evolve to be a fact that the "write" component of the drives may have failed. I am less inclined to see that is likely on TWO at the same instant. So don't shoot the horse just yet. Take the two drives(one at a time) and try them on another computer (not necessary but if the other computer uses different burning software that would be an added bonus)The internal one doesn't need to be actually installed as long as the appropriate cables are selected. Is the internal a SATA or IDE? Before you try the above you could try another burning software. There are a number of free ones available (burnaware is one). Any yellow warnings in device manager?truenorth

Tried deleting upper and lowerfilter from the registry? http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060

I went to the Microsoft link that you gave me and it said to use "if your drive is missing or not recognized by windows or other programs".  In my case they are not missing and they are recognized, but only as players not writers.  Do think that I should still try thay anyways?  I will give it a shot as long as it doesn't hurt anything.

I went to the Microsoft link that you gave me and it said to use "if your drive is missing or not recognized by windows or other programs".  In my case they are not missing and they are recognized, but only as players not writers.  Do think that I should still try thay anyways?  I will give it a shot as long as it doesn't hurt anything.

I just fixed the PSU an put a replacement BOARD into this unit.  I recovered all the information that needed saved.  I go to reinstall the OS but, for some reason after it installs the windows files it restarts, when you enter the user name an network settings.  Windows 2KBad RAM, bad HDD, overheating?

How's your dog doing, Ryuk? The Dog's name is Slade...I had cleaned off the old paste on the heatsink, reapplied new.  The harddrive seemed to work fine connected to another machine.  I did have issues with POSTing.  I'll try differnt RAM tommorow.

Its not my dog, His name is Harvest >
Why can't you diagnose your RAM with memtest86? Quote from: Ryuk on March 06, 2012, 10:46:25 AM

I had cleaned off the old paste on the heatsink, reapplied new.  The harddrive seemed to work fine connected to another machine.  I did have issues with POSTing.  I'll try differnt RAM tommorow.

Its not my dog, His name is Harvest ><

Im at my campus

I tested the memory, no errors.  I tried the memory that I bought with the board that was in there.  I tried a differnt harddrive.  I tried a differnt OS.  I thought that it was the reset switch I made.  It is still doing this for some reason

****UPDATE***

Disconnected all internal drives, and everything outside except for the monitor, Attempted to boot,

NOTHING no display of anytype,

I thinking MB?

Hello everyone.
If i'm not in the right CATEGORY for this post, pardon me, and feel free to move it.

First of all, I bought my build some weeks ago.

My build consist of:

Power Supply: Antec TruePower New TP-750 750W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.3 / EPS12V V2.91 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC "compatible with Core i7/Core i5" Power Supply

Processor: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 BX80623I52500K

Motherboard: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Video card: MSI N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II 2GD5/OC GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card

Heatsink: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel 2011/1366/1155 and AMD FM1/AM3+

Hard drive: Seagate Barracuda ST500DM002 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

Memory: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL

DVD-Writer: ASUS 24X DVD BURNER - Bulk 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS - CD / DVD Burners

Case: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147107

After looking at lots of videos on the internet, I took 5-6 hours of my time, doing very CAREFULLY my computer.
At first, the test build I made outside the case worked perfectly.
But when I putted everything inside the box, plugged everything, the power wouldn't turn on.
Seems like the power-supply was dead.

I ordered another one, and I shipped that one back.
Today, I received that power-supply. I plugged only the 20+4 pins in the motherboard, and everything was fine.
After that, I plugged everything in my computer (fans, hdd, video card, etc). I turned on the computer, and everything worked perfectly!

So I looked for my Windows 7 CD, I putted it in the dvd-burner, turned back to do something quick, and when I looked back at my computer, it was turned off. I pressed the power button, and nothing happened.

Sometimes, when I press the power button, the fans would work for maybe half a second and then dead nothing.

So I'd like to know, if it is possible that i'm unlucky enough to get 2 dead power-supply in a row, or if maybe something else is going wrong in my computer, or if I did something wrong, or if something in my build is incompatible or something..

Thanks in advance, and sorry about the quality of my english, i speak french most of the time.

EDIT: I tried powering up the computer with the power button on the motherboard. Nothing happened.
I discovered the "Clr cmos" button on the back of the motherboard. When I press it, my computer gets power for maybe half a second, and then nothing. Wonder if it can help.

EDIT2: I took the motherboard out of the case, and I tried powering it with only the ram, PSU and CPU. Didn't work. I swapped with the rams sockets. Nothing.

I tried doing the paper clip thing to try the PSU. I plugged a case fan to try it. It got power for half a second and then it stopped, again.

Is it possible that I have a faulty piece in my build that scrap my power supplys? Quote

I tried doing the paper clip thing to try the PSU. I plugged a case fan to try it. It got power for half a second and then it stopped, again.

I was on a non-conductive surface

did that kind of test with the power supply

EDIT2: I took the motherboard out of the case, and I tried powering it with only the ram, PSU and CPU. Didn't work. I swapped with the rams sockets. Nothing.

But when I putted everything inside the box, plugged everything, the power wouldn't turn on.
Seems like the power-supply was dead... First of all, I bought my build some weeks ago. 

So I looked for my Windows 7 CD, I putted it in the dvd-burner, turned back to do something quick, and when I looked back at my computer, it was turned off. I pressed the power button, and nothing happened.

Its conductivity that protects you from ESD (hence the reason you have to connect to your case in order to be protected) but you're not unfamiliar with the subject so I'll assume you didn't waste any hardware with a discharge. If you feel that this may have been the case, you should mention it sooner rather than later.

Yeah, I'm not sure if that is very useful. A fan isn't much of a load and other than the state of the fuse, you can't really tell much from such a test.

And this happens with both PSU's?

What kind of outlet is your computer connected to and is it connected with an extension cord? If so, what type of extension cord?

it's a bit odd for two PSU's to both give up the ghost.

So did you only now put it together or did it work fine all this time up until now?

Did you mount your CPU cooler as per instructions?

Did you install the risers?

When I tried everything for the first time, I was almost sure that the power supply was dead or something, so I send it back and I waited for them to ship another one.
The only time it worked fine is yesterday, before it shut down by himself and couldn't power on anymore. I was accessing the BIOs. Didn't have time to do anything but put that Windows 7 CD in. 1-2 minute after, it happened.

And this wall outlet is in order, you've had other devices hooked up to it that did not break down? Switch on the back set to whatever voltage comes out of the mains? PSU capable of auto-switching if there is no switch?

They didn't send you the same one back? Did you note the serial number for the first PSU?

I'd like for you to make absolutely sure that your CPU cooler is mounted properly.

Some people told me that it's VERY unlikely to get a defective PSU. The company where I order these is Directcanada.com.
They are very trustworthy and everything I order from them is sealed.

hey my laptop starts every time it warms up the fan starts to move when its very hot but it then STOPS again some times the fan moves at high speed but it doesnt really cool  is there a program wich controls the fan of the laptop.What is the make and model of your laptop?
You may have success with this: http://www.almico.com/speedfan.phpClean your laptop fan.thanks for the advicemy laptop is an acer r59 Quote from: computer 12 on March 04, 2012, 07:05:00 AM

my laptop is an acer r59

im not trusted to open my laptop

The reporter has made the following comment:
ok your right i will ... dow load fan sped ... and clean the fan

Something's putting my netbook to sleep. Acer Aspire One 722 only a couple weeks out of the box, Win 7 Premium. Before the start of Daylight Saving Time it was going to sleep at 5:00 AM. Now it's going to sleep at 6:00 AM. Thoughts on the culprit? Acer Tech Support was ENTIRELY unhelpful. Haven't visited any dodgy sites (honest) or installed doubtful software.Sorry, that's Win 7 Home Premium. Updates up to date.Tried setting up a different power saving schedule? Quote from: Raptor on March 13, 2012, 06:16:26 PM

Tried setting up a different power saving schedule?

Ah, you're using the Acer power saving software? I'd get rid of that, use the built-in Windows power saving features.

Seemingly at random the CTRL key GETS stuck as pressed entirely by itself when I press some totally UNRELATED key and now the W, S and E KEYS are randomly not functioning but the other half of the time they work just fine and as I typed this the e key sometimes acted like I pressed and held e down for three or four characters.  When the W, S and E keys refuse to work at all it seems to fix them when I press all three of them at once.  What's going on here?

I have a Lenovo Netbook with Windows XP Home Edition with Service Pack 3.
CPU N270 1.60GHz, 0.99GB of RAM.

It didn't start having these problems until a few months after using it on a daily basis in Australia when I bought it in the US if that helps at all.Sounds like you need to remove some BREADCRUMBS.

I have a very odd question about my laptop. I have a Gateway NV53, and every time I put it to sleep or hibernate the laptop it will not boot all the way up. The basic functions like the disc drive and lighting will come on, but nothing else. No screen nothing.

The odd part about my laptop situation is how to get it to boot back up. I have to turn the laptop on, let it charge the battery to a full charge, then unplug the laptop until it drains the battery to the point where the laptop turns off. I then have to plug it in within about 5 minutes of it turning on and power it up. The even stranger thing is, when it boots up, it boots up fine, and runs completely normal.  In many attempts this is the only pattern that turns the laptop on..? Weird right?

I have tried to take out the battery and power it up using only the power cord but it fails to do so. So I have to keep my computer on and running all the time. The only way to save power is to turn the screen off using Fn F8. So it's costly. What can be causing this, and is there a FIX??   

You have a Gateway NV53, but you did not indicate which OS you  have. Is it XP? If so, that makes you laptop very OLD. And how old is the battery?

Power off, standby and boot up issues do happen with laptops. Still, leaving nit on all the time is not a good IDEA. Checknto see if the BIOS has the default power saving options for your computer. ALSO, check your documentation to see if the CMOS battery is an issue in that model. Some laptops do not need a replacement battery for the CMOS. But if yours does, that could explain some odd behavior. Check and see if the date and time are correct.Thank you, I do have windows 7, the laptop is 2 years old, and I will do some investigating on the cmos battery. Any idea how to reset the cmos bios settings, it has been way too long.

My desktop has power but the monitor says no signal, tried a new monitor still has no signal. Thinking there could be a problem were the connection is, as the keyboard seems to turn off and on randomly. Looking for suggestions, as I really need some files off this desktop, ASAP.  Is there another way to hook up a monitor other than the vga (this is an older desktop)?
Hi try these steps...
1) CHecked video card - I replaced with an old one which definately works and still no activity. I then thought it could be the AGP slot but when I put the original card back i removed the power connections for it and it started beeping, so I presume the slot is OK? Not sure though.

2) Made sure all cables were in correctly - yes

3) Removed CMOS battery and replaced - no difference

4) Memory - removed one stick - no difference, removed other stick - no difference.

4) CHecked CPU - seemed to be seated in correctly but removed and replaced anyway, again no difference.

5) Monitor - monitor screen works as it displays 'no signal' when it attempts to boot.

Source: http://www.daniweb.com/hardware-and-software/pc-hardware/troubleshooting-dead-machines/threads/73686 Quote from: sdinelle on March 19, 2012, 08:13:41 PM

My desktop has power but the monitor says no signal, tried a new monitor still has no signal. Thinking there could be a problem were the connection is, as the keyboard seems to turn off and on randomly. Looking for suggestions, as I really need some files off this desktop, ASAP.  Is there another way to hook up a monitor other than the vga (this is an older desktop)?

hello!
after solving my earlier post. another problem I encounter, which is the keyboard keys. almost all of the keys are not functioning properly. if I pressed letters like "a" the outcome is "enter" or "P" and also other keys. I already uninstall then install it but no luck. I connected a usb keyboard and its all fine and OK using the other keyboard.
Before that I already scan the hd and found 112 virus/worms and all were cleaned. open surgery the main board to reset the bios.
any suggestion please? is it a hardware problem? or something that can be configure in keyboard setting? a script that is active manipulating the keyboard?
os is win7
thanks on advance! Quote

112 virus/worms

DOWNLOAD.cnet.com/DOS-on-USB/3000-2094_4-10795476.html
 25 reviews - Free - Windows - Utilities/Tools
Feb 29, 2008 – DOS-on-USB lets you install MS-DOS 7. ... The CNET Download.com Installer is a tiny ad-supported stub installer or "download manager" that ...

Not sure why you would recommend it then...since their's probably an 8 to 1 chance his drive is NTFS.
Start thinking before hitting the Post button...

Morning i use to have ,(i think ) 4 sections in my computer  C for windows 7/E for all storage./D/and G for pictuers and vidio's.but a friend partioned them for me .
then i tried to put them back to the way they where.but i lost them .now i have C with windows 7 on. about 40% full and E about 95% full and it is in red.
firstly how can i tell if my hard drive is full,and how can i get rid of  unwanted files i no longer need.and can i retrieve those lost sections. i am sorry if this is not enough information but i am not sure what to tell you.

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin] Quote

then i tried to put them back to the way they where.but i lost them .now i have C with windows 7 on. about 40% full and E about 95% full and it is in red.

Hm, I didn't know you could do that with Windows. Since when has that been introduced?

i have a factory dell inspiron 560 running vista business. my mouse has started acting funny if i try to use any drop down box it wont let me click on the box then choose a option i have to click and drag and even then it takes4-5 trys to get the right option whenever i close out a tab it does 2 or three . if i ever try to browse a forum and use the next button to goto the next page it always skips at least one and if i right click to use one of those options it always clicks whatever is behind that display box to.. what did i do to it?? what should i do ?? what can i do??It sounds like an issue with the contacts inside the mouse sending erratic signals to the PC... Just swap out another mouse and see if the ERROR persists. If you have special mouse DRIVERS and UTILITIES for your mouse, like Logitech Setpoint and MSI Mouse Utility, uninstall them and reboot. Quote from: Transfusion on March 15, 2012, 09:52:37 PM

It sounds like an issue with the contacts inside the mouse sending erratic signals to the PC... Just swap out another mouse and see if the error persists. If you have special mouse drivers and utilities for your mouse, like Logitech Setpoint and MSI Mouse Utility, uninstall them and reboot.

I recently bought a ASUS 2TB computer and turned it on, my screen didn't work so I turned the computer off. However I think that I have messed up my computer because now when I try to boot it up it gets to a screen where there is a small windows load bar that says "Setup is starting system" and then it turns to a BLACK screen for about 4 seconds and then restarts. It then GOES to a screen where it says "Windows Error Recovery" and says "Windows failed to start. A recent hardware or software change might be the cause." have I completely messed up my computer or can I still SAVE it?Make use of the warranty? alright but I was looking to try some other thingsIs there IMPORTANT data on the hard drive?Operating System?"alright but I was looking to try some other things"= in a word DON"T. Or you will possibly lose any relief under this "Make use of the warranty?" truenorth Quote from: truenorth on March 15, 2012, 10:18:40 AM

"alright but I was looking to try some other things"= in a word DON"T. Or you will possibly lose any relief under this "Make use of the warranty?" truenorth

Hello, I am Ed, and I have a small problem, I have a Gateway DX series pc running windows 7, it is new, and shiny!, however it does not like the old gnarly Okidata ML 521 dot matrix printer that I am TRYING to run from the DX. The Okidata needs a parallel port to CONNECT with the PC. I thought I could get around this by using a USB to Parallel adapter cable.......no, so, I thought no problem, I'll just pop a Parallel port in the PCI slot.......no, only 1 PCI slot on this computer??, so, without having to buy a new dot matrixn printer (there really is nothing wrong with the Okidata!) what are my options?, itwould be KIND of nice to know!, thanks
Edhttp://www.oki.sk/Windows7_MatrixV11_221110_tcm3-97543.pdf

It seems like your printer is supported by Windows 7 so why won't the USB interface work? Is the USB interface you bought PERHAPS not supported by 64bit OS? How old is it?

And is getting a PCI-E parallel port interface not an option?

Hi i recently purchased an Asus P8Z68-V LX motherboard. Well while installing it into my case it has BENT slightly, like arched but only slightly. My new custom build including this motherboard is not starting up, but the standby light still comes on when i plug it in. Please could you let me know what hardware i need for the motherboard to start or if the motherboard is broken. I also have installed in this case; an Intel pentium 4 dual core G860 CPU, a samsung 24x DVD rewritable drive, a 250 GB Western Digital Hard Drive anda 650W Ace Power Supply. I have used the PSU and the HDD in other computers so i know they work. Please help. ThanksMost likely the motherboard is damaged due to being bent. Take it to your local PC shop and have them test it
how do you test a motherboard. Also would the standby light still come on if it was broken ?Because those teeny little LED's need hardly any power to light and are no indication of whether the MBoard is good or not...Probably has the standoffs in the wrong positions or an extra one where it doesn't belong.Some techs test a mobo by putting it in a CARDBOARD box, like a pizza box. Connect power and keyboard only. Hit the start JUMPER, the keyboard should flash.

In several seconds  If the keyboard does another flash, the thing is doing some kind of work with the CPU and bios. It is mostly working. 

But if not, the CPU is not running with the BIOS. It is really not working and it could be anything. Like a CPU not in the socket the right way.

Good people please help I am trying to format my PC then I am getting this error "BOOTMGR is missing", what might be the problem???The message means that your boot device does not have all of the software needed to start the system.

This message is rare on a new computer. If it is very new, talk to the vendor or the maker of the computer.

Please provide more information.
Is this a computer? A laptop? NET book?
What brand and model?
Did it work OK a few days ago?
What changes were made to it?

Do you know the NAME of the OPERATING System?

There is a method for fixing this in WINDOWS 7, but before giving your the instructions on this, it would be better if you check for anything that has changed non  your computer. Do you know how to start the BIOS and check for the list of boot devices?

The computer is very old, when formatting with windows 7 it will load windows files for some few minutes and pop out a blue screen saying I must off and disable bios...etc

Please help me how to disable the bios and restart them Let's start at the top. If the computer is very old it's very LIKELY it will not support Windows 7. First thing you need to do is run the hardware compatibility applet AND make sure there are W7 drivers available for all installed hardware.

I picked up an older computer for my grandkids to learn on. It needs a fresh reinstall of the OS. I have WINDOWS XP Home. The problem I have is I don't have the drivers I need after windows is installed.

Is there a way to tell what the model number is for this computer? Or...anything that might tell me how to find the required drivers and utilities that CAME with the computer originally?


THANKS for you help.Everest Home
System Info for Windows
Speccy.

Just to name a few...all Free.In ADDITION to what Patio mentioned, you can also just look up the model of the computer (if it's something like an Acer or HP or the like) or opening the side panel and reading the model numbers on the parts themselves, then downloading the driver from the MANUFACTURER's website.

If the computer can't connect to the internet (network doesn't work without drivers for example) you can download the drivers from any other computer and copy them to a CD or flash drive.I had an Asus PIII motherboard (P3B-F), one of the most reliable computers I ever had.  It will have the model number silkscreened in white on the motherboard.  You can find all the motherboard info (drivers & manuals) on Asus website, http://support.asus.com/ServiceHome.aspx?SLanguage=en
Some add-in card have the make & model on them, too.Thanks everyone for the responces.



Quote from: Computer_Commando on March 20, 2012, 03:18:05 AM

I had an Asus PIII motherboard (P3B-F), one of the most reliable computers I ever had.  It will have the model number silkscreened in white on the motherboard.  You can find all the motherboard info (drivers & manuals) on Asus website, http://support.asus.com/ServiceHome.aspx?SLanguage=en
Some add-in card have the make & model on them, too.

i am unsure on how exactly to USE theMemok! BUTTON on my asus p8z68-v lx as the LED is not behaving as described in the manual. I have installed ram that is noted as compatible on the manufacturer website and the asus qualified vendors list however i cannot enter my OS. Please could you help me by tellng me in more detail how to use the Memok! button. The ram i have installe is: Crucial  4GB (2x2GB) PC3 - 10600,  CL=9, unbuffered, Non-ECC, DDR3 1333MHz, 1.5V or 1.35V (?), 256meg x 64MB.      Quote from: lorenzo.afw on March 19, 2012, 12:48:24 PM

The ram i have installe is: Crucial  4GB (2x2GB) PC3 - 10600,  CL=9, unbuffered, Non-ECC, DDR3 1333MHz, 1.5V or 1.35V (?), 256meg x 64MB.      

Dear Sir
             I purchased AOC e2043fsk LED. But someone in my home locked its OSD by mistake. I prefer Its user manual and tried to holding down MENU key until monitor off. But monitor doesn't off. I pressed menu key 4-5 minutes. Please tell me Solution

Thank YouUnfortunately i am not in a position to suggest the ACTIONS that you can take to remedy your monitor PROBLEM. However i am including a link to the AOC site for this particular monitor. It includes all the specifications and drivers as well as the manual. I WOULD suggest that if the site doesn't provide the answer that you call or e-mail AOC and seek their assistance.
http://www.aocmonitorap.com/egypt_eng/monitor_284.php
truenorth

Hi everyone, I have a CANON IR1022IF PRINTER and it displays a system ERROR E09. It has an orange blinking light and a blue one. PLEASE help! Thanks in advance! I'm sure the error is described in the manual, isn't it?

Hello

I have a Samsung WB210 camera what USES Intelli-Studio as its software.

Can I ask: is the camera only compatible with VISTA and Win 7 (I have XP Pro) as the user manual SAYS nothing about XP?

Thanks

High1I'd suggest you contact Samsung and ask them.

You can always try to install the software - EITHER it will work or it won't.

Hello I have carefully selected the following parts for my computer

Asus P8Z68-V LX

Intel Sandybridge i7-2600K

Asus 1GB GEFORCE GTX 560TI

Asus TA-K51

8GB (2x4gb) G.Skill 1600mhz ripjawx

Corsair 60gb ssd to have windows 7 installed on to get fast boot times

Samsung SpinPoint F4 320GB  for bulk of storage
Corsair gs 700

Sharkoon 1000 Silent Eagle x2 one on front of case and one on the back

Sony 24x Internal DVD Rewriter

My question is are all these parts compatible? Will 700 Watts be enough? Will there be enough cooling? Will there be a bottle neck? Finally are there any parts that are bad or bad value and should be changed?

ThanksYes, it all LOOKS good. But I relly don't know.
Here is one user who does not like 60 GB SSD and windows 7.
http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums/en-US/w7itproperf/thread/962b565e-a211-4a38-b3b0-b5e42be2a60a/

To kind of sort of sum it up...
maybe you should wait on the SSD until later on.Google all the parts to the motherboard, that should tell you if the parts are compatible or not...some atleast

what would be better for gaming


amd DUAL CORE  = 4gig RAM

or

amd dual core x2 = 2 gig ram
amd dual core x2 with 4 gig ram

before it happened there was a loading (before windows xp logo display)
after that the screen went black (the windows xp logo havent shown)

specs : amd 3.2ghz
            2 gig ram
            built in VIDEO card

scenario: no display
               everytime i power on the monitor says "no signal chek blablabla..."
               force shutdown disabled (cannot turn it off using power button)
               green led at the front blink once after that led turns off (were usually on and standby when its working fine)
               
heres the list what i did.

1.) restarted it using button (still no display in the monitor is says no signal)
2.) used the monitor to another CSU (the monitor is working)
3.) unplug the run ram, cleaned it, PUT it back (nothing happens when i turned it on)
4.) change  the power supply (still nothing happened)
5.) turned on using other working ram (still no display)
5.) turned on without ram (still nothing happend)

please help me... i really need your help
Sounds like the video card.  If you have access to a video card that you can install temporarily to test that theory that is the way i would go.Without being able to see anything it is difficult (if not impossible) to check anything ELSE. truenorthactually im very new when it comes to troubleshooting hardware... do i need a cd or software to test other video card to my CSU???Yes you will require software for the specific video card you install. However i would suspect that your installed windows version should have basic drivers to get you going with a replacement card. I am suggesting  that if you have access to one you can use temporarily then before going out to purchase one we can see if that does solve the lack of video on your system. Of course this will  involve you opening up the interior of the computer to do this. But that is usually very easy and just be sure the power to the computer ( from the wall or the rear of the tower ) is removed. Before going into the interior touch the case to ENSURE any discharge of static electricity is removed.Depending on what card slots are available usually a PCI or PCI-e slot will be available to in stall the card in. If you have any further questions don't hesitate to ASK. truenorthPress F8 before Windows loads and selects "VGA mode" does that help?i'm sorry but after that loading it never showed up again even i restarted it over and overmaybe i just have to try what raptor said...
i will let you know if video card testing will helpthis problem seems to be a mokor outbreak in computers especially desktops
its goes blank
i have changed the VGA, virtually everything i just think its common for computers that are produced earlier than 2002
please any solution to should be posted thanksWhat does this mean?
"i'm sorry but after that loading it never showed up again even i restarted it over and over"
Is the problem gone? truenorth
i'm sorry... i was wrong... i meant i will try  what truenorth... that message was for raptor thats what i meant.. bios never showed up after that

hi
looking to buy a graphics card and STOPPED at these two
nvidia http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/NVIDIA_Series/ENGT440DI1GD3/#specifications
ati http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/AMD_Series/EAH6670DI1GD3/#specifications.
which one is BETTER? now i have asus EAH3850. thankshttp://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Powercolor/HD_6670/23.html 
The HD 6670 is by FAR SUPERIOR to the GT 440.

http://www.hwcompare.com/7438/geforce-gt-440-3gb-vs-radeon-hd-3850-512mb/
The GT 440 is not an upgrade from the HD 3850 you have right now.

I'm selling my dell XPS 15 which is EXACTLY a year old. It has a intel core i5 2 core 2.67GHz processor, 6GB of RAM, and a nvidia Geforce GT 420m 3.6GB, windows 7 64 bit home premium, 600GB HDD, I think it's 720p and it has very nice JBL speakers
Approximately how much could I GET for this P.S I live in the U.K
Thanks Try searching for the same computer on E bay or other local online classified advertisers and see what others are asking. Determine your price ACCORDINGLY. truenorth Quote

I think it's 720p

hello.. i have keyboard problems with my neo laptop. some keys especially the "6", "k", "numlock" and "enter" keys are not working, even i pressed it hardly, super hard yet won't work. But when i open my laptop and windows START up and asking for my password, many 6 will automatically appear, like 66666666666666666666666666666666. i already clean the keyboard, uninstall the keyboard driver, and clean, but it doesn't work. still those keys wont work. help PLEASE.. than u. Does the same thing happen in safe mode?yes, same thing when i SWITCH to safe mode.Under Warranty ? ?
If so i'd use it immediately.no, i been using it for almost year, first time to happen. any help??Yep, it's a problem with the hardware. You either need to have the keyboard repaired, replaced, or use a third party keyboard.hardware problem? how come? Things breakwhat things??Okay, we've helped about all we can here. You need to take it to a repair shop or send it back to the manufacturer. okay, thanks for all the replies..
Last recourse. At your own risk. SEE if you can remove the keyboard. Be very careful. There is a thin cable you might break.

You an wash the keyboard in a mix of water, soap and alcohol.
Shake of the liquid. Let dry in a warm dry place for 24 hours.Do not put in oven. But a fan can help dry it.

Maybe it will work.


I suggest you do NOT follow the above advice and that you have it repaired or replaced by a professional. Quote from: Allan on March 29, 2012, 01:55:17 PM

I suggest you do NOT follow the above advice and that you have it repaired or replaced by a professional.

    I suggest you do NOT follow the above advice and that you have it repaired or replaced by a professional.
I agree...

Hello,
I keep closing the drive and it opens up on its own. Any thoughts?There are two reasons why it keeps electing either the rubber inside your rom the black one is slacked or your pushed button attached to your computer to eject the rom is bad.Its constantly pressing the rom.
Solution check the rubber and also check to see the code
good luck to you any more issues SEND me a message No error messages. It was fine all day. I closed the laptop to go out to dinner. Came home, opened the screen and all of a SUDDEN the rom opened. Combined with the problem in your other post, it might not be a bad idea to run full system scans with BOTH your anti virus APP and with MalwareBytes - let's make sure it isn't a malware issue.Thank you. I'm doing that now  Here's MBAM. Drive still won't close

[year+ OLD attachment deleted by admin]

I have an Antec case which will not fit in the alcove at my desk.  Due to the small size of the office and the configuration of built in wall cabinets, windows, etc.; absolutely the only other alternative I have is to place the tower on the other side of the room.  The actual DISTANCE is roughly 2 meters, but then I'll have to run the monitor cable up the wall, across the ceiling and then back down to the monitor.  I need to know if there is a limitation to the length of cable that can be used to do this, and what is the correct type of cable to purchase.  Do I want an extension or do I want to purchase a new cable and swap it out for the one on the monitor now? Any information would be appreciated.
Tower is a custom white box in an Antec case, Radeon X1600 Series graphic card, Windows XP Pro w/ SP3 and the monitor is an Envision H190L 19-inch TFT LCD Flat Panel Monitor.
Thanks for any and all help.Most STANDARDS i've read put max cable length for both VGA and DVI at approx 12 to 14 feet...

They sell what's called repeaters which you would need to probably GO further.Some references say you can go 25 feet using special cable.

25 feet = 7.62 metersI do appreciate the limitations of the available locations in the "room" for the monitor and tower. Just in case it is available (as was a similar issue i had at one TIME) is it possible to run your cable under the floor and then back up? Usually (such as with a 1st floor and an unfinished basement) this can be a more flexible solution requiring no loss of aesthetics and often a shorter cable distance. Two small drilled holes convenient to both components to the area below are all that is required.truenorth  This MAY be the time to think about

Wireless VGA Extender

Either Bluetooth or WI-Fri and be used to run VGA up to 100 feet indoors. But rather pricy -$300 + even on eBay. It is good for projection presentations in a large auditorium where the operator does not want to be right under the screen.So when is a good time to consider a $300.00 dollar solution ? ? Quote from: patio on March 29, 2012, 07:41:32 PM

So when is a good time to consider a $300.00 dollar solution ? ?

Im NEW to this site, so im not really sure where things can GO and cant go.. soooo. sorry if i am posting this in the wrong spot, if it is plz just respond with a pm.  What i need help with is this,. I need to know if this Charger

http://www.impactcomputers.com/la65ns2-00.html
is compatible with this laptop
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834200077&nm_mc=OTC-Froogle&cm_mmc=OTC-Froogle-_-Notebooks-_-DELL-_-34200077

plz let me know in a pm. tyvm

Try taking a look at this one....

http://www.buy.com/prod/ac-charger-for-dell-inspiron-1545-1525-1526-pa-12/q/sellerid/20726090/loc/111/212594467.html

It is for the 1545 and cheaper.

ive seen one like that before but notice how the part that plugs into the computer doesn't have the octogonal shape like the original charger does. does that matter?I think you should be OK. The add says that its 100% replacement for your model laptop.

You could call them before you order and have a tech check it out.

hey guys im having problems mith my kerio AD-90 laptop charger i have emailed the COMPANY but still have not heard anything back so i joined this forum to see if anyone could help me it dose not hold CHARGE and its beeps at the same time..i on one hand no what the beeping means but i dont not no how to fix the problem could anyone help me will be willing to help with problems some one else has aswell as i am very good with computer's

Anyone know why a longtime reliable laptop (Dell D410) would not respond at all?

When I couldn't fix the problem, I installed a new (used) mb, CERTAIN that would do the trick--but it did not. It is worse than XP not booting -- that would be easy. I cannot
--enter BIOS setup (f2)
--enter start-up choices (f8)
--enter boot sequence (f12)
--cannot use Knoppix, Recovery Console or any Live CD because cannot boot off the CD drive. The CD drive does not even power up.

The Dell logo does not come on. No DOS screen on any kind.  There is not even a blinking cursor, nothing!

What does happen is that the little green "power" light stays on when the system is powered. When I depress the "on" button, another little  green light indicating the system is on stays lit for a few seconds--further proof the machine is powered--then dies.

I have swapped in and out two HDDs, including one I carefully tested.

The screen is broken you say? Hooked up to an external monitor (even with the LCD cable disconnected) and still nada: black as black.

I have swapped in and out memory, including a new stick of GSkill PC5300 DDR 2 I recently bought.

About the only thing I haven't done that I can think of is to buy a used external optical drive module on the off chance the CD drive is dead.

I did have a bad hard drive (bad sectors) that had file CORRUPTION, and was in the process of putting in a new hard drive when this happened. I used the system recovery disk to install Windows on he new HDD. No problem. I had made a complete drive image (clone) of the bad disk and tried to restore it to the new disc, and this failed. I learned since that cloning a disk with bad sectors transfers the messed up table. That is why I bought the new system board. But with a new mobo, how could the problem be reoccurring.

Oh - because of the bad hard drive, I had disable Paging Executive to keep all the page code in RAM, where I figured it was safer than on a failing disc, but that was in the previous motherboard--such a setting would not be transferred to a new one.

I is stumped!

Richard

But Quote from: rihiggins on April 01, 2012, 09:07:03 PM

But with a new mobo, how could the problem be reoccurring.
I is stumped!

I learned since that cloning a disk with bad sectors transfers the messed up table. That is why I bought the new system board. But with a new mobo, how could the problem be reoccurring.

[I'm NEW here, if I've posted this in the wrong forum, I'm sorry!]

Somehow, my keyboard (a Gateway FX laptop, American layout, Windows Vista Home Premium SP2, 32-bit), whenever I type ", ', `, ~ or ^ and a vowel, it comes out with a letter with an accent, such as '+a=á or ^+u=û.  It SUDDENLY started doing this, out of the blue.  My questions are:

1) Is it possible to switch off/on this setup?
2) Is it possible to add new characters to be inserted when a letter combination is typed?

Thank you. Control PANEL - Region & Language.He must be using US INTERNATIONAL keyboard. He needs to do some reading to understand why and how it works.
How to use the United States-International keyboard layout
Also:
Keyboard layout - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Addition help:
Quote

Windows International Keyboard Codestlt.its.psu.edu/suggestions/international/accents/codeint.html
Aug 12, 2011 – Windows - International Keyboard Codes. This page list codes for accented letters and other characters. The list is organized by type. If you ...

the same question.

hello!
please help find where the rtc reset pin(bios reset jumper) in my samsung np-nf210 netbook.
when I search the web it says below the ram but can't see anything with rtc label.
thanks in advanceUsually in laptops there is no jumper to reset CMOS LIKE on desktops.
A laptop CMOS battery may look like this:

or this:

If you WANT to reset the CMOS, UNPLUG or take out the battery and wait 10-25 minutes before putting it back in.
Also, what errors have you encountered that make you think resetting CMOS is necessary?thanks for the reply.
My PROBLEM was already solved!
cheers!
Actually I'm troubleshooting a netbook of my friend that won't boot(no display at all) that's why I think reseting the bios will solve it.
I found the rtc below/ other side of the board, . So I just unplug the rtc and short circuit the two pin.
thanks again!There's no point in 'short-circuiting' the pins. There's no charge without a power source...hey I have the same problem and same netbook. Where did you find the rtc pin?
Quote from: monikaaa on March 23, 2012, 08:39:39 PM

hey I have the same problem and same netbook. Where did you find the rtc pin?

There's no point in 'short-circuiting' the pins. There's no charge without a power source...

There's no point in 'short-circuiting' the pins. There's no charge without a power source...

I was brought a laptop that has Windows Vista on it.  Thing is that it was able too boot into Vista at all.  The user wanted to remove the OS an put 7 on it.  Thing is that when I go to install it, it doesnt see the harddrive.  I was able to install a copy of 98 without any issues.  It seems like a SATA Standerad Drive.  Is it possible to connect it with regular SATA connectors to check the drive. 

Acer - ModelYes, SATA 2.5" and 3.5" are completely interchangeable.

Quote

Thing is that it was able too boot into Vista at all.

I was able to install a copy of 98 without any issues.

This makes zero sense since Win98 doesn't even have SATA drivers...

This makes zero sense since Win98 doesn't even have SATA drivers...

Understood.

Just curious as to why he even went down that road on a Vista PC...

Hello -

I am not SURE what to do at this point. I am a singer and I have thorough knowledge on the TECHNIQUES of singing with a microphone to prevent things like feedback and such. I have slowed down singing live, but lately I have been using this website to keep singing (it keeps me sane lol). Anyway, I thought it was maybe my microphone, but I tried to sing without a mic at all and just use the computers built-in mic & have had the same issue. With or without a plugged in microphone if I hold out a note too long, no matter the pitch, it will do something like changing my vocals into a strange high frequency pitch.

Here is an example (it doesn't have a timer so you can't really skip to the second, but it is within the first minute of the recording)
http://www.singsnap.com/karaoke/r/bc688274e

The following is my computer specs:
Operating System: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (6.1, Build 7601) Service Pack 1 (7601.win7sp1_gdr.111118-2330)
Language: English (Regional Setting: English)
System Manufacturer: ASUSTeK Computer Inc.
System Model: U56E
BIOS: BIOS Date: 05/23/11 17:00:41 Ver: 04.06.03
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-2310M CPU 2.10GHz (4 CPUs), ~2.1GHz
Memory: 6144MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 6050MB RAM
Page File: 3148MB used, 8948MB available

Any thoughts or suggestions would be extremely helpful! I know it seems like such a small issue to most, but it can get really annoying for me.

Thank you,
Melissa MarieI'm unable to perceive the issue myself via your link (my CONNECTIVITY is awful at the moment) but you aren't having the sound playing through speakers while recording, are you

Other than that, all I can think of is it being a problem with the website.

There was at least one distinguished note you held where I did notice the spike that you're talking about.

Kudos on the singing btw 


hm, sound is a complicated thing.  What type of monitor do you have... LCD or CRT ?   If crt, are the speakers sitting too close to the monitor ? 


Try making a recording on your PC. A suitable program is:
Audacity
It is free, takes awhile to learn, but gives excellent results.
For MP3, Audacity requires a plug-in. However, for real professional results avoid used MP3 during the editing and MIXING teaks. Use a format the has the best  quality. Later it can be copied and converted to MP3 for use on the web. A MP3 stream of 128 kbps  is recommended.

http://audacity.sourceforge.net/

Also, use of level control and limiters is not good practice for good vocal recording. Those effects should be done later, a post-process or mix down task. Some systems have a wimpy level limiter on at all times and the result is very poor quality for singing. Make sure your levels are well below the DISTORTION point. This is digital recording, not analog. Stay away from doing a "red-line" in digital recording. The level and be normalized later. Signal to noise ratio is not an issue in digital recording that you 'fix' by turning up the gain. The DACs seven in basic sound cards do better that -90 db.  (The best analog sound mixers hardly do -70 db.)

You can download your music, play nit in audacity, and record a second track vocal while wearing headphones. I recommend a pair of headphones with a microphone, but NOT noise canceling. Just record where there is little background  noise.

I once was a broadcast engineer. Later, I spent some years in sound systems. So I have had to learn about this new digital stuff. Use it correctly and it is good.  But it can be very bad. If the bandwidth of the Internet improves, we can have very good audio and video entertainment. Meanwhile, we have to do the best we can.

i recently purchased a plug N play radeon X1300 PCI-E card.  i got it and installed it in my computer and nothing happens.  the computer does not recognize the card.  the fan on the video card is running but its not showing up under display devices.  me and a friend did some trouble shooting and no luck so he said the card was DOA.  today when i came home from school i had a message on the computer showing found new hardware VGA controller and installed the drivers and it recognized the X1300 but still no display was coming out of it.  i restarted the computer and it went right back to like it was before, not recognizing that the card is there.  on start up it looks like it trys to USE it but it can, the PC light blinks about 3 times and then it just SWITCHES back to onboard graphics.  anybody got any ideas?It can't switch to onboard graphics unless that is where the monitor is hooked up.
Are you sure the monitor is hooked up to the card not the onboard connection ? ?

To make sure the card is the problem swap it into a KNOWN working machine...if it does the same thing it needs replaced.Hello. Well first of all, when switching from on board video, there are a few things to do first.

Take out your new card and uninstall it's drivers.

Once that is done, uninstall the on-board video drivers.

Shut down your computer, and put in your new video card.

Now, go into the BIOS settings and disable your on-board video. (that was the main problem in the first place)

Now that your on-board video is DISABLED in your BIOS, your computer should see and recognize
your new video card.

After windows boots, install your new video cards drivers and reboot.

Doing it this way should work, if not, let me know what it's doing/not doing right. Quote from: Obsolesce on October 03, 2007, 02:18:44 PM

Hello. Well first of all, when switching from on board video, there are a few things to do first.

Take out your new card and uninstall it's drivers.

Once that is done, uninstall the on-board video drivers.

Shut down your computer, and put in your new video card.

Now, go into the BIOS settings and disable your on-board video. (that was the main problem in the first place)

Now that your on-board video is disabled in your BIOS, your computer should see and recognize
your new video card.

After windows boots, install your new video cards drivers and reboot.

Doing it this way should work, if not, let me know what it's doing/not doing right.

I just moved and well I BROUGHT my computer over but when I turned it on, it wouldnt load.   The hard drive isnt starting up.  Now, what used to happen was, if I unplugged my computer and moved it, when I would go to start it up, it would turn on but there would be a delay, a minuite or so later, it would beep, and the hard drive would start up. Now, however, that isn't happening... power is on, motherboard is lighting up, hard drive seems to be spinning, but, its not loading.

So, what I've tried so far is... Disconnect power, wait a while, reconnect and try again. I turned it on, and just gave it time (two hours later no difference). I tried a different PLUG from the power supply in the case. I tried a different SATA port on the motherboard.

Unfortunately none of that has worked, so I'm getting a little worried.  If anyone has suggestions I would greatly appreciate any bit of help I can get.  Thanks a ton.I just moved do you have the same power in your
area? Like The US has 110 Volts and The UK has 220
 volts.Either way make sure the switch on your power
supply is set for 110/220V according to where you are.

With that being said....Try reseating your ram and video card.
Sometimes they get jarred loose a bit when you are moving
a computer.I did not change areas, still in the US. I checked the power switch, and its in the right position.  Also, my graphics card and RAM are all seated properly but the hard drive still wont load.Can you boot in safemode,or with the OS disk?My keyboard is inactive so I cannot get to safe mode and the CD-ROM drive wont open.You are probably using a USB keyboard.Can you try a PS/2 Keyboard?




The top outlets are PS/2.And to add to what street advised also disconnect the SATA drive. Before powering up turn off the PSU in the back and hit the computer power button a few times.
Restart without the drive connected...wait 3 or 4 minutes til everything cycles and power down.
Re-connect the SATA drive and re-boot.I do not have access to a PS/2 keyboard and I have tried the other method described and still my hard drive will not boot.Can't you borrow/ beg  the use of a PS/2 keyboard ?

Most people have them just laying around in the closet
talking to spiders.possibly, but my monitor is not displaying anything, it just goes straight to power SAVE mode because there is nothing being sent to it.

I have also tried TAKING out and replacing the CMOS batteryWell, can you test your monitor,or the video card on a
known good working computer?Yes all of that stuff is working, I really believe that because the hard drive isnt BOOTING there is just nothing for the monitor to display.   It would still display the BIOS boot up sequence.

and you tried booting without the hard drive plugged
in correct?

Read the below 2 links real carefully.

http://www.pcguide.com/ref/mbsys/bios/bootSequence-c.html

http://www.pcguide.com/ref/mbsys/bios/bootPOST-c.htmlyes I tried booting without the hard drive connectedVideo card,ram,CPU,power supply.

Something is stopping your BIOS Power-On Self Test (POST .

See the link below again.

http://www.pcguide.com/ref/mbsys/bios/bootPOST-c.html