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Hi Everyone,
I've been given an Abit AS8 motherboard along with 4 sticks of 512 RAM and an Intel P4 3.6 Processor,
It was a working board when the guy updated his PC and I got it 3 days later, I've kept the Original P4 in it, I've kept the original 4 sticks of 512 RAM in it, the only things I've put in it is my Western Digital Hard Drive, my DVD re-writer, a USB1 PCI Card, a USB2 PCI card, and a Geforce 6600 AGP graphics Card.
When trying to start I'm getting a number sequence on the LCD which goes 83, 96, 9E, 9F then it stops and just leaves 9F on the display.
I'm not getting any Video output through the Card to be able to get to BIOS or anything, No beeps from the board either, I've tried putting in a differnt (older) AGP graphics card and still the same, I've tried a different Hard Drive, I've tried switching the Jumper over for the CMOS to clear that and still the same.
I read on a different site that it could be my PSU not powerful enough so I've bought a 750w PSU which outputs 32 Amps on both +12V RAILS and still no difference.
Can anyone help me as to what the problem is?
Many Thanks,
Richard.Are BOTH power cables plugged into the mobo? If so, then try clearing the CMOS. You can do this by switching the jumper or just taking the battery out and unplug it for three minutes.

Some info on this forum: http://forums.hexus.net/scan-care-hexus/31978-av8-wont-boot-9-f-error-code.htmlThanks for your reply,
I can confirm both the 20 pin power cable and the 4 pin P4 cable are plugged in.
I've tried resetting the CMOS but I'm not sure if I've been doing it right.
I've been switching everything off, moving the jumper, leaving for about 1 min, then putting the jumper BACK and powering on again.
Is this the correct way or am I missing something??
One of the screw holes are half covered by the ide port for the hard drive, so I can't get to it, so I've left this without a screw in it, I did however put a plastic spacer underneath it to make sure it didn't touch the case, would this cause a problem??
I'm getting REALLY annoyed with this mobo now.
Many thanks,
Richard.

there are 4 LEDS on the bottom that are usually green but now they are off except the first one is orange. the keyboard is on. when i unplug and plug it back in it flashes the 4 LEDS green really quick . the keyboard is a Smart Office Keyboard model number ez-8000. please help THANKS If I an not mistaken, one should not unplug and plurg in a PS/2 device with power on.so theres no way to fix it?
You can try PS/2 to USB adapter and see if the keyboard still works. Scanty documentation I FOUND does not clearly explain what the problem is, just that you are not SUPPOSED to do that because of how the DIN connectors are made. They are not Hot Swap connectors. USB are.

Either the keyboard or the motherboard has been damaged. There may be a fusible link on the motherboard, but that is not certain.

The keyboard should not draw more that 300 MA.  If it does, the motherboard  INTERFACE fails.Either the keyboard or the motherboard has been damaged. There may be a fusible link on the motherboard, but that is not certain.

Hello to all.

I am curious to how i can make an adapter to watch vidio from a RCA (the Yellow, red and white labeled cable) on a vga monitor.
I am curious due to the reason that i have a monitor laying around and don't want to buy a TV.

Is this pin-compatable?? and is there a PAGE out there i have missed?? because i have been looking with no success for a while now. You can buy a powdered adapter.  EXPECT to pay $35
What is the souse? A DVD player?Yes, a DVD player, like the older ones without the Y/Pr/Pb or whatever it is. Look  this over and see if it is what your NEED:
TV Video RCA to PC VGA Converter Adapter Switch BOX with Free Power Supply
Ir boots the signal level so that you have a better picture. It does NOT do anything to then audio. You have to get a separate audio cable.
I have one like it ans it works, but not really great. Just OK.

i bought new laptop hinges, but theyre stationary.  they dont "hinge".  theyre the same exact ones that were on here before, MADE for the the model of the laptop i own.  is there a trick to this?  they didn't come with instructions or anything, so im assuming its not rocket science, but i dont see it.  any ideas?  thanks guy, super appreciate it.or if anyone can direct me to a place where i can figure this out, that would be cool too.  thanksHave you installed them yet, or are you just trying to open and shut them with your fingers? Laptop hinges are be quite stiff by design to stop the screen flopping about. I would try installing them and if they are still stiff, use a small amount of WD-40 or similar to lubricate them. Spray some on a COTTON bud and try to work it into the moving parts of the hinges, don't squirt it all over the hinge area because that might damage the plastic of the laptop's case.i tried moving them before installation, i THOUGHT maybe they needed to be installed before they MOVED, which didn't make much sense, but needless to SAY after installation they are still stationary.  thanks for the tip, i will definitely try that!

I want to do that RAID 0 thingy on my PC
I bought a new hard drive and put it in. my SYSTEM shows 2 working drives
I dont want to buy a PCI Slot Raid Controller.
how can i make these drives
250GB
160GB
and combine them to make ruffly 410 GB???

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HPDC7800P MINITOWER
2.33GHZ dual core duo
512MB gt 240 ggr5
4GB RAMWhy do you NEED RAID on a home PC ? ?

What are your goals for this RAID array as there are different SETUPS involved...

Not wanting to buy a RAID card MAY be an obstacle...depending on your MBoard.Yes, you can do that, BUT you'll have to loose your current OS unless you have another drive that you can copy everything over to and then back once the RAID is installed. You DO NOT need to buy a RAID card. It is faster if you do, but software RAID works fine too. You can setup RAID in Windows: http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/36504/how-to-create-a-software-raid-array-in-windows-7/

EDIT: keep in mind that RAID systems are harder to access if the system fails because if you boot from CD you'll have to load the RAID drivers in order to access your partitions.

hey guys, I've been having a problem with my sound for the past 3 or 4 days. i was watching videos on youtube, left the computer, came back and the sound just stopped working. i believe this was after it came back from hibernation. i have it automatically set to hibernate after a certain period of time when I'm running just off my battery. I'm running windows 7 64bit on a lenovo thinkpad e520.

anyway, ill go through a list of what I've done so far.
-I've RESTARTED multiple times.
-went to task manager, installed sound drivers and restarted my laptop. the new drivers didn't seem to fix it.
-downloaded new drivers and installed them manually
-checked if the system was in mute in the system tray and in advanced audio options
-I've done a consistency check on my hard drive
-Ive done a system files check(sfc /scannow)
-done the sound check wizard
-i even tried hitting it. didn't help.. lol


sometimes i get little blips of sound, but its becoming more and more uncommon. usually, if it does decide to make sound, it's the beeping sound from coming back from hibernate. that's pretty much the full extent to it. before the sound stopped working it was really distorted sounding. i FORGOT to mention that this laptop isn't even 6 months old.

thanks to anyone who's willing to help with this crazy puzzle
-IanWhat is your sound chipset?i just did a check disc again and ticked off both boxes and let it do its thing. when i tried to do it the first time, nothing really happened. i got my sound back. its better than before. the beep sound (when i plug it in and out) changed to something higher a couple months after i had it. all back to new. sorry for solving my own problem like this... i appreciate the help.
-ian Quote from: Linux711 on April 14, 2012, 10:12:23 PM

What is your sound chipset?

Hi everyone,how can I run my crossfire without disabling my vipre antivirus?ThanksYou may have POSTED in the wrong sections.
This post should go in Software Games.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on April 17, 2012, 05:38:35 PM

This post should go in Software Games.

You are right. Crossfile is a computer game.

The power supply burned out on my Gateway P4 HT, 3.06 GHz computer.  Tested with a good power supply and found the computer was still dead.   I've found a replacement P4 2.4 GHz motherboard and power supply on eBay.   Both boards are 478 pin sockets.  Can I swap the 3.06 GHz P4 hyper threader CPU with the 2.4 GHz P4 on the replacement board?
If a power spike damaged the board, what else may have been damaged?

ByronYou need to look at the documentation for both motherboards.
And u need the exact Intel number for each CPU. Intel mad a lot of CPIs and not all 478 pins are interchangeable.

Please try to find the specific information. Somewhere on the mobo there is an exact model number for either board.
Meanwhile, look this over if you need a refresher on the 478 socket. It was a good idea, but Intel left it behind.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socket_478

The link below shows some differences with the huger speed CPUs in the 478 family. There is an concern with higher power requirements. So you need to consult the mobo documentation. Also, some of the CPUs vary a little in voltage. I am not sure if it  significant.
My guess is you shroud only use the CPU that came with the board.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Intel_Pentium_4_microprocessors GEEK
  OK, I have the replacement MoBo & power supply installed and the computer up & running,but s-l-o-w-e-r.   I found the 3.06 GHz chip in the chart linked.  The chip is a Northwood YORKTOWN SL6S5 386g12/512/533  serial L247a917-83512?  (It is very cool that these cpu's were named after US navy ships-Yorktown, Nimitz, Thresher, et al)  Both boards are AXT # D845GERG2/D845PECE.   I can't tell the # of the 2.4 GHz P4.  The heat sink is a newer design & I haven't figured out how to remove it.  All the hardware checks out by hardware manager. 
  Back to the question of whether I can swap the 3.06 GHz P4 HT for the 2.4 GHz P4 CPU installed on the board.  Documentation for the 3.06 GHz HT cpu says it can be installed on another board if the board RECEIVING it has the correct socket (it does) and is 32 bit.  The replacement board is running Windows XP PRO.  Does that mean it is 32 bit?
Now that the computer is running, I wish I had purchased a newer AXT board & larger power supply, even an SATA board & dual core processor was available on eBay for only a little more $.
Queries will be better if we know what MBoard we're dealing with...Yes, need to know motherboard.  Get CPU info here:  http://www.cpu-world.com/Thanks GEEK-9pm, patio & Computer-Comando! 
The links you posted were enough to tell me the switch could be made.  My YORKTOWN is running just fine with the 3.06 GHz P-4.  The last link had a statement that as long as the cpu's are 512/533, they can be switched.  They are & they did.The boards are Intel D845GERG2/D845PECE ATX .  The CPU'S are P-4 2.4 GHz 512/533 SL6DV costa RICA 3232A255-0035 and P-4 3.06GHz/512/533 SL6S5 malay L247A917-8732  (none of which matters now) Quote from: blithe SPIRITS on April 16, 2012, 02:22:54 PM

It is very cool that these cpu's were named after US navy ships-Yorktown, Nimitz, Thresher, et al

I ran TreeSize Free file analyser and cleaned up my HARD drive. I then ran Disk Clean up and Defragmented my C:drive. My free space got a LOT WORSE. My System Volume Information file is now  twelve g (across two files like this: {c090b898-86e1-11e1-9c49-0019b987fda5}{3808876b-c176-4e48-b7ae-04046e6cc752}. And my Pagefile.sys is now 3g.
BOTH files say 'Access Denied'. I am administrator, I've made the files 'unhidden' I've gone to 'Properties' and tried to change permissions using security tab, but all to no avail.
How can I reduce these files or even delete. They weren't ALWAYS this big so everything in them can't be critical?
Any advice really appreciated as this is really bugging me.
Thanks.
1) What OS are you using?

2) To delete all but the most current System Restore Point, use the "More Options" tab in Disc Cleanup.

3) To change the size of your pagefile go to Control Panel, System Properties, AdvancedThanks for taking time to reply. I'm using Windows VISTA Business. I'll try what you suggested now, but the SystemVolInfo and Pagefile.sys ballooned AFTER I ran disk cleanup and defrag last night...Also when I go to ControlPanel-System-Advanced System Settings I get the same popup: Big Red X and  'The service cannot accept control messages at this time'.
What am I doing wrong? Man is being beaten by machine Are you logged on as administrator? Try rebooting.  Well done. You are a certified Genuis. Thanks. Yes, both worked when I elevated to Admin. Problems now solved.
Best wishes,

ZealeyNo problem - I specialize in the easy ones Allan da man....
We love success stories here...

07:33   jerson   when i connected card reader by USB port but i cannot open required folder in the card therea are many which is formed without my knowledge ALSO amessage is shown "exception processing message c0000013 PARAMETER 75b6bf7c also when i try to install wubi from net a message "ERROR an unsubscriptable object pls help meI voted...I voted too.

Hi,  I am an amateur computer builder and I have just FINISHED a complete and for the first time in my life, the powere will not come on.  I have tried everything i can think of, including replacing power cable, reconnecting everything, MAKING sure everyhing is connectied properly, ETC.  and nothing.  I push the power button and nothing.  I am USING a coolermaster Extreeme 500 on a Gigabyate Z68M motherboard.  Nothing happens, nothing.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!  sjpelhamThis is not an easy problem to solve. I would 1st TRY the PSU in another computer to verify that it works. Then i would probably verify that the heatsink on the MOBO is properly insulated with thermal paste. Then with only the bare minimum hardware see what happens. You will need to get something working before any additional progress can be achieved. truenorth
P.S For testing purposes you could bypass the power switch and use the power cord as the switch to eliminate a faulty switch.make sure the voltage is the right before its to lateYou may safely ignore any advice from computer 12

Wanted to thank you all FIRST for all your HELP previously!!!!! 

recently i bought this ipad 2, and i tried to read the manual and all but NOTHING works, i try to transfer a PDF file from my PC to this ipad...but nothing works....

can someone EXPLAIN simply to me how to do this? THANK YOU SO MUCH......



You need to DLoad a pdf READER for it from the apps store.i see i will try that thanksAnytime...

i have installed a program that its supposed to TELL me the fan speed but it does not  the fan moves in auto mode depends on the CPU usage why
can you tell me why or how can i make that it detects it thank u What program ? ?sensors Never heard of it...try SpeedFan.nothing either the fan its not detected is there a software that MAKES it detectable?
QUOTE from: computer 12 on April 14, 2012, 09:24:51 AM

nothing either the fan its not detected is there a software that makes it detectable?

try SpeedFan

i tried it before but nothing

Hello all- I was given another pc. The operating system is XP. The system info.shows removable disk F,Removeabledisk G,thru I. There are no usb drives pluged in. Safely remove hardware Icon shows up. When I click on this they can be REMOVED. After I reboot, PC shows These 4 removable drives again. How do I remove these icons? Why are they showing when nothing is pluged into a usb port? Thanks.That is a built in card reader i would bet my bottom dollar...I believe that I am looking at a card reader installed on the front panel. the slots are marked CF/MMC  CF/MD   SD/MMC  SM. I don't know what they stand for. I will do some research. Why does the safely remove hardware icon show? I guess I have nothing to worry about. Thanks a bunch.Anytime...that's why they re-appear on re-boot...even after removing them...

Not to worry.

BTW those are the 4 most popular SC Card formats and they all need their own device to work.SD ^^^Just to confirm what Patio has said, those are indeed the card reader slots that you're seeing. My old card reader used to do that, and I've seen it in many other COMPUTERS. My new card reader doesn't show them unless there's a card in one, but that's just because that's how it's made.

I wouldn't worry about it. It's perfectly normal and performing EXACTLY how it was designed. But I will add something for future reference. If you do put a card in the slot, instead of using the "Safely Remove Hardware" feature before you remove the card, instead just right click the drive icon in My Computer and SELECT "Eject". This will dismount the card (if it's not in use) and allow you to remove it without have to restart to get the card reader working again.If you don't want the drive letters to show if no card is inserted, use this utility:  http://www.uwe-sieber.de/usbdlm_e.htmlThank you all again. Now if I only had some cards to read. We can send you some if you like...

Cpuz says slot 1 ddr
Slot tewo ddr

And has a slot 3 and 4 but they just blank

I assumed they were empty. But when I open desktop I SEE only 2 ram sticks and no empty ram slots NEAR them or anywhere on mobo

Does that mean I only have 2 slots? Or do I have 2 empty slots somewhere and I can't see em

This is a gigabyte board from 2004
So is it possible I only have 2 slots?
Thnaksmeh ordered ram!

i got this one

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145213

and this is my mobo stats

ddr
256mb
pc2700 166mhz
kingston


says that for slot 1 and 2, and 3 and 4 are empty, but when i open pc, only see 2 slots...

o well did i order the right thing?

looks like ill have 1.25gb ram instead of my dreamed 1.5gb lolIf you see 2 slots...you have 2 slots.
If you see 4 slots...you have 4 slots.

Sometimes sites report specs that are not accurate.

PS...we still don't know what board this is...Sorry

this a gigabyte 848P-ICH52 RAM slots...
Travel to Crucial.com to see if the RAM you got is compatible,,,it will also tell you the max amount on each slot... QUOTE from: STC on April 23, 2012, 05:37:58 PM

Sorry

this a gigabyte 848P-ICH5

All
Interesting challenge this one... We need to build or buy some PC's that have multiple USB ports and NOT use HUBS.  We need UBS ports in multiples of 6.... and the extra ones for Keyboard/mouse/USB memory.
The PC has to be small - ultra small form factor OR could go 19" rack mounte.. but there is a catch there.
We found one USFF PC with 6 USB ports... and a PCIe expansion CARD...and it had one "COMBINED" PS2 port - but alas that does not allow true keyboard AND mourse operation.
Best would be TWO small form factor PC's that will sit flat within a 19" rack - have 8 ports onboard and a plug-in card for another 6 ports - so thats 14 - 2 for kbd/mouse and 12 for our application.
Another thought had been a 2u or possibly 3u rack mounted - an expansion cards for 24  (3 * 8 ??) USB ports.
USB 2 is good enough... USB 3 would be bonus.
Win 7 is ok - we know we can use XP.
Anyone got any ideas ?  We have searched most of the PC people we can think of and its not easy to get a clean solution.  If we get this right we will be ordering/making 10+ of these machines........Expansion Card is the only way possible, without designing a custom solution.
SFF with 7 ports:  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815158209&Tpk=usb%20card
I am getting to the same conclusion.......
We need USB ports in multiples of 6... so that card is good.....
Now comes the other idea........a PC that can support 3 or 4 of those cards and has enough USB ports of its own to support a 6-set for our application AND has USB for keyboard/mouse and being greedy at least a spare for USB memory sticks.....
24 ports for our app + 2 + 1 is great.............any more sets of 6 AND the kbd/mous/mem would be icing on cake.

I maybe should have added - 250-500GB HDD, 2-4GB memory, graphics is not a main driver as this is normal PC work (1280*1024), network card/DVD etc...Sorry

I did mean to say thanks to Computer_Commando !!!

24 USB ports needed total ? ?
They better be powered hubs...Many motherboard have 4, 2-PCI-e x 16 & 2-PCI-e x 1; you can use the x1 cards in an x16 slot.  4 slots, 4 cards, 4 USB buses w/7 ports each, not including the motherboard.  The cards linked to have power supply connectors, but you will have to get some adapters because most PSU's only have 1 or 2 mini-molex, you need 4, one for each card.  2 of these cables will do it.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812296156

Can you tell us why & how many separate USB busses you require?  You said you need multiples of 6, but not how many multiples you need.  4 is maximum.Thanks again
The issue is that we are TRYING to build a multiway programmer station where each device we need to program needs to be on a unique USB.  We have tried a LOT of HUB solutions and the 1-2-1 mapping thru a HUB just does not seem to work.
The more devices we can connect per PC the better and cheaper the solution - as we have many many thousand devices to program.
The smaller the form factor PC the more portable the solution becomes.  We wanted to build a 1 PC and 4 off 6-way programmers... the docking station for the devices is a 6 way with 6 USB leads..
Some testing with the 12 USB setup we have got working has shown we will want 4GB to 6GB of memory.
The programming application is simple and does not need much in terms of graphics.....HDD space is going to be useful as we need to read, save, modify and write new data for each device and want to keep detailed records.....calculations show that a 500GB drive will allow at least 3 sets of complete programming  (thats over 100,000 devices) so thats ideal.  The reasons for looking at rack mounts is that we will have to transport this setup (well many setups as we are considering 10 to 20 of these) around the country and into some computer unfriendly environments..........
Hope this helpsAint gonna happen...
I think your strategy needs to be re-visited.
If it were that easy it would have been done 10 years ago.Not sure I follow you patio....
I have seen a number of USB cards that offer 6 additional ports. 
I believe you can get motherboards  that already have 6 or 8 ports....
So those 6/8 plus up to 3 * 6 cards means 24 or more ports....

I am seeking advice if my thoughts are correct or am missing something.........also anyone who has a good recommendation of a motherboard or alerady built PC that will cater for the 18 additional ports....

If I have made a big error here.. please point it out.

ThanksMotherboard with 6 PCI-e slots & 10 USB ports:  http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128532
You want us to design the whole system for you?  I've given you the motherboard, expansion cards, power cable; the rest is up to you.  I suspect you need the services of a hardware engineer.  You maybe making this more COMPLICATED than it needs to be.If you are building the device programmer then why not say have 128 devices to program with the same code and multiplex the usb data lines. Why have the pc controlling, powering, all those usb ports.
2 USB ports 1 for control of what chip/device is being programmed and 1 for data to the device currently being programmed.  Then you could use a laptop to program the devices.

If you can give more information I'm sure there is a different way to look at the problem instead of 6 usb cards.
Many thanks all..

The motherboard suggestions helped a lot and we have gone down that route.  Located a 2U chassis and motherboard with enough slots, found a 6-way USB card and all the other bits.
Had two companies suggest a build (warrenty) etc and one option of a self build.

We tested a 12 way setup - 2 of the cards - worked well.  Quick test of an expensive so-called "excellent" powered USB HUB and it failed... We susepct that the in-house application to do the programming has a real issue with HUBS....and I know I am not going to get the app changed in time.

So we are going for one of the 24 ways being built by a company..........

MANY thanks for all the help and adviceWhat kind of devices are you programming?

Hi. Can SOMEONE help me please. My FRIENDS flash drive usb CONNECTOR has snapped off. I have a usb lead which I have stripped to reveal the 4 wires. I am going to atempt to solder the wires to the flash drive and hope to grab the data. I don't know what colour will go where on the flash drive BOARD. Any help appreciated. Thank you guysSee here...
The colors have no MEANING & could differ.Spot on thank you so much. I really appreciate it

I have an old Dell Optiplex 260 P4 2.8 CPU...that had a bad case fan. The fan is the type that is connected to the motherboard and also gets its power from the motherboard.  I replaced the fan with one that connects to the Molex connector from the power supply. But now whenever I have to start the computer I get a message that reads:

Alert !!  Previous fan failure. Strike the F1 key to continue. Strike F2 to run Set up utility.


Even though the new case fan works I think the BIOS is looking for the previous fan that was connected to the motherboard. When I hit the F1 key the computer the boots up into Windows XP. How do I get the computer to boot into windows without stopping at the "Alert !!" error message and go straight into Windows.

My computer has a BIOS version number A09 if that helps at all.

Thanks.
             Go into the BIOS and locate the settings for fan monitors. Disable the one that related to the old case fan. The BIOS thinks it's still there, but can't get a reading on it. This is why it thinks it failed.A side note: the optiplex gx260 has a fan-less heatsink that relies on a plastic shroud and case fan to provide AIRFLOW over the processor heat sink.

Quote from: Amazon

Genuine Dell 9G180 Blower Fan for OptiPlex GX260, GX270, GX60, GX240 and Dimension 4500C, 4600C

$15.00

quaxo,

I do not see anywhere in the BIOS where you can disable the fan ??

I have an HP e9180t 64bit Windows 7(upgrade from Vista came free).

At present the PC is not running. I had tests done at a local PC store and it is a bad mobo.

The Truckee mobo in several models was determined as defective and replaced for those lucky enough to hear about the law suit against HP.

I am trying to locate a new, later version mobo. I have found a few on the internet but they do not state vers #.  I contacted HP and they claim there is no part# for any of the revised, or new, boards. 

I have heard that the mobo can be swapped out without doing a clean install. If I am using the same mobo (hopefully not defective) why would there be a problem?  Wouldn't it be the same as unplugging the connectors, then plugging them back in?

 As long as it is the exact same mobo there should be no problem. However, as a safety net you should create an image of the drive. In fact, you should do so on a regular basis anyway. Below is something I put together a while ago for another site:

Disk Imaging software takes a "snapshot" of your drive as it exists at the time you create the image. You can then restore the entire image or any file(s) or folder(s) you choose. It is a virtually foolproof way of backing up your SYSTEM and providing a safe haven in the event of a catastrophe that requires you to blow away your system partition and restore it to a previous state. It also allows you to "test" VARIOUS software and be confident that you have a the ability to return to the prior state any time you choose.

 
I USE Acronis True Image. It is the best of breed, but it isn't free. The best free alternative is Macrium Reflect.


1) I create an image of my system partition once a WEEK to a second hard drive and keep the 2 or 3 most recent images. I also image my other partitions about once a month. I always enable "verify image" in the options. It takes a little longer, but insures a valid image.

2) I also create an image before performing any drive level function (ie, changing the size of a partition) or making any significant change to the OS (installing a service pack, upgrading IE, etc). Also sometimes before installing new software.

3) Images may be created on any medium (cd, dvd, external drive, etc). For obvious reasons they should not be stored on the same drive you are imaging. The best option is a second internal hd if you have one.

4) Images may be created "in the background" within the OS. If you need to restore the system partition, that will need to be done before the OS loads. You can start the process within the application in the OS and it will then tell you it needs to reboot to finish the process. Alternatively, you can boot to a "recovery disk" which you can create when you first install the software (or to the application disk itself if you have one). Other partitions can be restored without a reboot.
Before the Fact...

After the Fact

I have used both methods successfully...Regarding snapshot. Wouldn't my PC need to be working? Presently it is not. I am using my OLD a350n backup PC, or was that info for future reference?

Regarding info from second post on link to the WinXP swap out. Would this info still hold true for Win7?

I have found a few sources on the net for MB, some are pulls, others are refurbished. Either would be OK as long as it is not the same REV as what I have.  None of them state a REV # and phone or live chats did not answer the question.  It makes me a little leery that sellers don't have all the info on their products and won't go the extra step of finding out. Both methods work the same for XP and 7... Quote from: Allan on April 16, 2012, 11:57:25 AM

As long as it is the exact same mobo there should be no problem.

I have had nothing but problems from day one with this laptop. Just today in the middle of watching You Tube Blue Screen came. Something about _power_ all I could see before the count down went black. It gets really hot. I have it on a cool pad. The Blue Screens happen all the time. Sometimes the laptop just shuts itself off. Just last week my dvd drive wouldn't stay closed. I run malware and super anti spyware all the time and I can't RID the machine of Blue Screens.

Advise?Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply


Also, do you have an anti virus app installed and resident at all times?"I have had nothing but problems from day one with this laptop." Is this laptop still under a warranty? If yes then proceed to exercise it. truenorthI got this in 2009...I doubt that it is still under warranty.... Quote from: truenorth on April 18, 2012, 06:58:42 AM

"I have had nothing but problems from day one with this laptop." Is this laptop still under a warranty? If yes then proceed to exercise it. truenorth

Also, do you have an anti virus app installed and resident at all times?

Hey all,

So, I installed some new RAM (2x4gb) into my HP G62 laptop a few months ago and it works great. I re-installed the O/S (Windows 7 Home Pre 64bit), sorted all the drivers out, updated them and installed software's such I needed like anti-virus. However, when I installed COMODO Internet Security my laptop keeps beeping. I installed COMODO Dragon and there system cleaner software as a package.

As this 2 fast beep sound was STILL HAPPENING, I deleted ALL COMODO softwares off my laptop with Revo Uninstaller and CCleaner the rest of the files.

Still, at this point! I have the beeping sound yet again!

My first thoughts was the memory I installed does not like my laptop but then I thought, well it cant be that because it didn't happen when I installed the RAM! it only happened when I installed all the COMODO softwares?

I will try and delete software's which I think might be the curse of this but if someone can suggest something which might help, please COMMENT!


Oh, just 1 more thing. Around 3 weeks ago, I have the blue screen of death. The error code which appeared was EITHER a graphics card driver problem or memory problem. I re-installed all the graphic card drivers and updated them, after this I have had no BSOD anymore.

Thanks

ShaneTFletcherI have found where the sound is COMING from.

The beep sound is from the hard drive but only it only happens when I move the laptop suddenly or putting it down. The beep is a single 1 beep.

I did some hard drive tests a bit ago and everything passed?
Does this mean my laptop is going to die every soon?

Hello guys,

I am using a tower on Windows 7, I do not know much more about it but anyway i was
playing some games and then i accidentaly clicked the 'sleep' button on the keyboard.

I have done this before and i have just started computer back up but this time it didn't work, I moved around the cords at back of tower but still no power. I usually get the lights on the front of the tower going if there is power but there is NONE at all.

If you could help that would be amazing hopefully i can get it sorted, I checked the inner computer out and i believe if it's something in the computer it may be the CPU but im not completly sure.

Please help
Quote from: I claw u out on April 11, 2012, 06:31:52 AM

I moved around the cords at back of tower but still no power.

Finally fixed it,

I opened up the computer again and found no possible errors with the cords, I then put the power cord in the cpu and riggled it making sure there was power, Then i riggled it again and it must of gave the CPU enough electricity to run because i clicked on and it instantly went on. I know this might of been tragic but im willing to take a risk to get it running

Would of liked to have seen that!  The CPU is the Central Processing Unit that is inside your PC and resides underneath the heatsink and fan. I think you mean to say that you plugged the power lead into the back of the PC and 'riggled it'. I'm glad your fixed, but based on what you've posted in this thread, i think you'll be back quite soon.   

Since I am not having any luck finding the the info I need to replace the defective IPMTB-TK MB, I was wondering, if I make make the HDD external, can another PC read it? What I am TRYING to do, if possible, is to retrieve what is on it.That should work, yes.Thanks.

Do you have any idea what VT6315N-CE means?  This is on some of the possible MB replacements I found.
What problem would I have If the BIOS is different than what my specs say? Are any BIOS updates done automatically?Via Technologies
http://www.via.com.tw/en/products/peripherals/1394/vt6315/Thanks.
Can you address the BIOS question?Don't FRET over the BIOS being an issue...if you replace the MBoard it will have the APPROPIATE BIOS for the MBoard...
No it usually does not need updates.

first of all sorry if this is in the wrong section

hey guys, i think my fan has stopped working, I can't hear it working or anything but the CPU TEMPERATURE is highish (90 celsius) i tried to find out how to see if fans working or not (tried to go onto my bios thing didn't work), was wondering if you can help me

I'm running a lenovo g6570 with windows 7, using a i5 intel processor and an AMD Radeon HD 6370m gpu if you guys need more information im sure i can find out somehow

=D

Quote from: Sas187 on April 19, 2012, 11:02:47 PM

hey guys, i think my fan has stopped working, I can't hear it working or anything but the CPU temperature is highish (90 celsius) i tried to find out how to see if fans working or not
=D

Been having trouble with my computers wifi card SINCE I got it 2 weeks ago. The COMPUTER is a PRYON FX6A, and the wifi card is a 802.11n wireless LAN card made by Realtek. I am running a registered version of windows 7. When this problem first arose I took it back and the guys I brought it from uninstalled the hardware and reinstalled it. Is this just a quick fix or if I do it again will it work for good? The card then started playing up again last week and since then has been playing up, it wont connect to the internet at all at the moment and when it does the card then somehow disappears from my computer and it can no longer pick up my wireless network. Is there something else I can do to solve this problem other than what has all ready been tried.
Also it has nothing to do with the router or network as i am using my iPod to create this post on the same network I am trying to get my comp to connect to. Does the card actually disappear from hardware manager or is it just having trouble keeping the connection?

If it's just the connection, go into your wifi router's settings, and try CHANGING the channel it operates on. Other household electronics use the same frequency range as wifi does and can cause interference. These items can range from cordless phones to microwave ovens. This interference can sometimes cause signal problems for wireless devices. Just because your iPod works ok doesn't necessarily mean there isn't a problem with your network. Interference has different effects on different devices.

Anyway, look at your current channel and either add or subtract 4 to the current channel. For example, if it's channel 1, try channel 5. If it's channel 5, try channel 1 or channel 9, etc. (if you're using 802.11g). If you're using 802.11b or 802.11n, change it instead by 5 or 8 channels respectively.


Technical Explanation: (not necessary to fix your problem, but will explain in more DETAIL)
The usable 2.4GHz range used by wireless devices ranges from 2400 MHz to 2483 MHz. Since each 802.11g channel covers a range of 20 MHz (10MHz in either direction from the channel's actual frequency) but each channel is only 5 MHz apart there sometimes is overlapping that causes interference. When adjusting by 4 channels, you're choosing a new channel that doesn't overlap with the previous one at all.

If on the off chance that you're using 802.11b, move 5 channels away instead of 4. 802.11b channel width is higher than 802.11g/n. If you're using 802.11n, then you'll want to move 8 channels away as 802.11n channels are twice as wide as 802.11g/n channels.WOULD the channel be the transmit buffers?The channels would be the channels, I've never known them to be referred to as anything else. You can find it in the WLAN or WIFI or Wireless settings for your router. Don't confuse these with WAN, which has nothing to do with WIFI.

My computer has been working just fine for months when suddenly one day when I was playing an MMO, the game window (not the desktop) started to have weird fuzzy graphic artifacts and static lines. After a minute the entire computer froze up and required a hard reset. Looking inside, I realized my only casing fan (other than the CPU fan) had stopped working due to dust chokage (I always leave my casing open on the side).

Even after washing off the dust, the fan still seemed rather sluggish so I let the computer rest for an hour, then aimed a powerful ventilator fan at it. The same problem still crops up - works fine for hours when just surfing net/word processor - but within a 5-10 minutes of running any video or graphical game, it goes crazy and BSOD on me.

I have updated the Nvidia 9800GTX drivers today, but nothing has changed.

Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.Do you have an adequate power supply for your system? What are the specs of your system?
Have you tried monitoring your system/CPU/graphics card temps with http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html ?

If your single case fan has "stopped working" due to dust chokage, I strongly suggest you take your entire PC out for a good blowing out with compressed air; just a suggestion you can use a paintbrush for those hard to reach crevices on the motherboard. You never know where dust can accumulate. Also, take the shroud off your graphics card (if it has a shroud, the reference models with the blower fans do), take the heatsink off, give it a good cleaning, reapply thermal paste.

If you're adventurous enough you can do this:

Unplug the blower fan.

If your temperatures are normal by now and PC is still BSODing, its time to do a hardware stress test, just in case there are other components responsible.

IntelBurnTest for your CPU: http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/Benchmarks/IntelBurnTest.shtml Run it on Standard, 1024MB, for 10 passes. If your system gets unstable in the process it will tell you.
Furmark for your Graphics card: http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/Benchmarks/FurMark.shtml Run the 720p benchmark. If your system gets unstable there will be artifacting on the screen or the picture will freeze. If your temps look like they are about to skyrocket above 90C, STOP.
MemTest86+ for your RAM: http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/Benchmarks/Memtest86-plus.shtml Run it for 10 passes. It will indicate a read/write error if your RAM is faulty.

If you BSOD on Furmark, even with acceptable temperatures (below 85 C) then I would take the graphics card out, and use your integrated graphics to play a game or two. No crash? That means your beloved 9800GTX is at the end of its lifecycle.Wow, appreciate the comprehensive reply.

I am using a CoolerMaster 650W PSU, which I'm pretty sure is sufficient for a computer which I mainly use for video/media, mid-range online gaming and Internet.

- Gigabyte EP-43 Motherboard
- 4Gb RAM
- 3x SATA HDD / 1x DVD-RW
- about 2+ years old

Thanks - I will give these solutions a whirl and get back to you when one of them works So I've tried the cpu/gpu/memtest options (with the recommended programs), but they came back without any problems. As far as they could tell, the system was fine.

One thing I did find out was the problem might be related to the Direct3D (d3d) driver which works normally UNTIL I run a game.

Without my ventilator fan cooling the GPU, the game seems to work perfectly fine for 5-10 minutes before going crazy. With the fan on max, I have run it for an hour without problems. I've only tried it once with the fan on max so I'm not sure if it definitely related to the fan-cooling.

Now I'm finding I don't get the BSOD anymore but it just shutdowns the game (after a few minutes of crazy graphics) and boots me back to the desktop. And I discover my Direct3D stopped working after the error - using dxdiag to check d3d will just keep returning errors.

Trying to run any game will return errors as well. Any idea why this might be the case?

Have you tried running some DirectX applications in windowed MODE, instead of fullscreen?

This time, run the Furmark Burn-in test. Let it run, without your ventilator fan, and I'm almost 100% positive it will crash within 5-10 mins. Post back about how it crashes (BSoD? D3D driver crashed?) and after how long and at what temperature as indicated by Furmark.

If it doesn't crash after ~20 mins, I'm thinking its the graphics memory. Artifacting and sudden changes in textures is usually CAUSED by failing graphics memory. Furmark doesn't stress the graphics memory as much as games do. It stresses the core far more than games, though.
Run this:  http://mikelab.kiev.ua/index_en.php?page=PROGRAMS/vmt_en Video Memory TESTER. Without your ventilator fan. See if it returns errors. If it does, then run with your fan. Still returns errors? Faulty memory. Does not return errors? Problem with VRAM cooling.

If it crashes, reboot and run the burn-in test with the ventilator fan on max. If you see your temperatures stabilize, wait for 10 mins. If no crash, then play a game or two. Still no crash? Run VMT, with the fan still on. Does not return errors? Problem with VRAM cooling.

Also, what is the manuf. of your 9800GTX?

hey EVERYBODY right now im upgrading my cpu and ram and was wondering if these two would be COMPATIBLE with my COMPUTER.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103885       Cpu

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231203       RAM

and finally here is a LINK to my pc
http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport/TechSupport/Document.jsp?objectID=c02481302&lang=en&cc=us&taskId=125&contentType=SupportFAQ&prodSeriesId=4269863&prodTypeId=12454

if anyone could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated



RAM is fine...
You will have to travel to the MBoard manuf. site however to see if that CPU is supported...just because they may be the same socket design means nothing.

Good Luck.thats the problem i went to the site and there is no useful information about it. here it is

http://www.pegatroncorp.com/index.php

Hello everyone! I am so desperate at this point, having tried whatever I could with the little KNOWLEDGE I have about computers. For starters, I accidentally plugged out my 2tb external drive while the computer was scanning it. After that I was told that my drive was corrupted. So I ran chkdsk on my drive and I was able to get some items back, but not all, I have MISSING folders. Also, trying to open a folder makes my computer freeze up, but I'm sure its not a virus. All of this started when I got the corrupted message. Trying to fix this problem, I set my external drive as active, thinking this would fix the problem.  When I saw that it didn't fix the problem, I was unable to mark it as inactive. I went through all the prompts in the chkdsk black screen only to get stuck at the last prompt. Now I'm having an even bigger problem because my computer is doing this continuous boot. When it boots up, it attempts to go to the blue chkdsk screen for like 1 second and then it boots as normal. When it asks me what mode to boot up in, no matter what mode I select (safe, normal) it reboots all over again. I have also tried to do a repair using my Windows disc, but when asked to select my c drive, I see no letter next to the drive, so I can't select it. I am at my witts end with this issue, trying to handle it myself with no avail. I really need your help, anybody! You would make me so happy, I'll have all my sentimental things back and I'll be able to go back to creating music. I've had this problem for almost a year now and don't know where else to turn. Thank you so so much in advance! Quote

I've had this problem for almost a year now and don't know where else to turn.

Toshiba
Satellite L675D-S7052
OAS Windows 7

awhile back laptop screen went black. i just dont have the money to bring it to local Comp tech. So i have been searching for a few days in the forums. I can see the log in screen just barely not enought to do anything (such as Back up my comuter as the owner manual recommends)
So i hooked up and external monitor through the RGB (monitor port) that was good for a bit. now laptop is the same (without the option to use fn F# keys) BUT the monitor is in Power save mode and i am at a lose for what to do? not being able to manuver the mouse. Ive tried many many times to... take out battery, un plug AC, hold power down for 30 secs, Fn f2, try from there to boot in safe mode. Fn f8  Fn f10. anything i have trouble shot ive FOLLOWED close instructions and done many times.  Hoping to at least be able to fix this myself.  Thank so much i look forward to hearing u from you! Quote

I can see the log in screen just barely not enought to do anything (such as Back up my comuter as the owner manual recommends)

i could possibly set it up in basement on table til the part came in. Do you have any suggestions or advice before i attempt this? i have looked at steps in taking apart a laptop and im really good at step by step instructions on putting things together. so thought maybe i could this as well. but not sure if its ok to leave it set up or any special tips anyone would have.

Do you have any suggestions or advice before i attempt this? i have looked at steps in taking apart a laptop and im really good at step by step instructions on putting things together. so thought maybe i could this as well. but not sure if its ok to leave it set up or any special tips anyone would have. Thanks again!

Hi. MAY I ask for some advice please. I have  a Acer 5315 2.0ghz. Now when i plug in the charging light ILLUMINATES. I switch on, green power light comes on and I hear the fans run however after 3 seconds it stops but green power light still illuminated. Nothing at all APPEARS on screen no flickering. Any idea please.  My GUESS is the board but sort of hoping it isn't.This appears to be a laptop, so you could try plugging it in without the battery.Hi Sorry yes this is a laptop. Ok just TRIED that but the problem still remains. Thanks anyway

Hi all,

I am using windows 7 ultimate.
Recently when I plugged my external HDD (160GB) to windows 7, a MESSAGE popped up, telling me that I needed to format the external HDD before I could use the HDD.

That's RIDICULOUS. The external HDD got more than 100GB data.
I have TRIED all the USB ports but every time when I plugged the external HDD to the computer, windows 7 just kept telling me to format the external HDD.

I have no idea why windows 7 got this problem,
but windows XP works well with my external HDD.

Please help me if you could.

Kitty kwfine,
 Are you saying the XP reads the external HDD and Win 7 does not?
You have a dual boot? Both OS on the same desktop?

Yes, that relay does sound strange. Do you have any other external HDD that show the same problem? Is the external a specific brand?

Just on a dumb hunch,
--  have you DONE a virus scan on your Windows 7 OS?

How is it reported in Disk MANAGEMENT ? ?

Good day folks! I have this Toshiba Satellite L350 - 20G that stuck on its logo upon turning it on, i cant even enter on its bios, just freeze on its logo's toshiba. My SON played just recently on it when it shutdown by itself and upon asking him he played it on his bed making the air vent of the laptop close to air. When i turn it on it freeze on its logo, tried to remove the 2 memory cards nothing happens, tried to remove the HARD drive the monitor goes blackout, just the power on light and the processing lights that are lit up. I sent this to a computer tech and he said that my motherboard  are dead, can a fried or dead mobo still manage to turn on up to its logo? Why can still turn on up to its logo if its fried? And other thing why the monitor goes off when i remove the hard drive? Please help !!If you see the Logo, most of the motherboard is working. Thee are a number of things that might give that symptom.

The most  likely thing is a computer virus

. The hard drive can be removed and tested on a desktop machine that has the right connectors.  I think that Toshiba has SATA drive. It can be checked for virus on a desktop computer by making it a 'slave; drive.

Also, the drive can be checked for bad sectors. In some ACES that prevents the laptop from working.
TNx for the reply Geek.  Id try to test the hard drive but only in an external. Never been tried to put in another pc and used as a slave drive, yup it is  a  SATA drive.
 
When i used it on an external drive the drive name was changed to SYSTEM RESERVED instead of local disk c.

The disk management says its healthy but on its 160 giga capacity 24 giga is used instead of 115 giga that ive already been used, and the most disappointing part is, theres nothing you can see on the drive even a single folder.Your observation would suggest that the motherboard might not be the cause. A rogue program could have done that. As to why people smite us with such PROGRAMS, that is another topic altogether.

Anyway, do you have a CD or DVD that can restore the OS? You will need a **virgin drive that has not been corrupted.

I don't mean that your drive is forever lost. Rather nit has been  really messed with. There is stuff on the drive that can stop the laptop cold and give not explanation. It happens. Really.

For testing purpose, it is better to try a clean drive and see if the
system with come alive. Worth a try. A spare drive is always handy. And costs less than a new motherboard. Also, test the laptop with a bookable USB flash, but no hard drive.

BTW: Few techs in the USA are fully qualified to test laptops PCs.  And that is not just my opinion.

** virgin drive, one that has not been badly mistreated. Sorry for the sexism. Having a drive back to factory condition is the objective. Or even a good used drive will do. Size is not important for testing

Well actually there obviously must be a reason.
First of all, I have EMACHINES E527, not a good computer, but enough to do my schoolwork and use Facebook.
One day after school I get home and go on my computer and I get to use it probably for like 5-10 minutes and suddenly the SCREEN turns black. At first I thought it really did turn off or something but then I noticed if I look very closely, I can see the THINGS on my desktop..
I decided to shut my computer down and then turn it back on. When I turned the computer back on, I could see all the startup things (computer logo, starting windows etc.) very clearly, as I did usually when I turned my computer on. When it asked for my password, the screen was almost black again..
I STARTED looking that maybe I had turned brightness down or something, but everything was maximum (even my battery settings were set on high performance). I could see the STUFF better when I was using a torch (I looked stupid). I discovered a key combination Fn+F6.. It turned my screen on for 1 sec and then turned it off.. I tried it like a hundred times and then suddenly it turned my screen back to normal.. but EVERYTIME I turn my computer back on, the screen goes black and I have to press Fn and then f6 twice to make it go back to normal.. And sometimes it turns the screen off randomly again when I'm using the computer (it also did while I was writing this paragraph).

Any ideas what could be wrong? What could I do to make it go away? Could it get more frequent?

I started seeing weird lines & dots on my MONITOR about 24 hours ago,
I haven't seen anything like it before and want to know what this is and is it bad?


VIEW in full resolution:  http://i.imgur.com/9AoTS.png
lines like this pop up often, even when I'm typing this right now. every time the screen is refreshed it'll pop up.

A really bad one:

http://i.imgur.com/9AoTS.png

I first saw it when watching anime using VLC media player, weird lines popped up and flickered all over as the video played.

System Info:
Windows Vista x64 Home Premium
Intel i7 920 2.8 GHz Quad w/ HT (8 Cpus in task MANAGER)
MSI X58 Platinum SLI mobo
MSI Twin Frozr nVidia GTX 560 Ti graphics
Corsair XM3 DDR3-1600 12 GB (6x2GB)
Corsair TX-850 850W PSU
Corsair 800D case
Seagate Barracuda SATAII 1.5 TB primary hard drive
ASUS VW266H 25.5" LCD 1920x1200 monitor.

Using Norton Internet Security 2012 - no threats detected
Windows is up to date, windows update ran on Sunday.
Graphics drivers up to date.
Computer is on APC-brand 1000 VA UPS (primarily used as line conditioner/surge/brownout/etc) the UPS is protected by a surge protector.
Monitor is about 2 years old now.

I haven't turned off the system since it started happening- I still have the system temps recorded and I don't see anything unusual (excessive temps)

As you can see it's still happening as I did the screenshot (best of 5 tries)

Can someone tell me what's going on?

thanks in advanceIf the lines are occurring in your screenshots, which are dumps of your graphics card memory, it's possible that your card is going bad.

Try taking out your GTX 560 Ti and running with your onboard graphics. See if the problem persists. If not, plug your GTX 560 Ti back in and run Video Memory Test:
http://majorgeeks.com/Video_Memory_Stress_Test__d5896.html 
See if it reports any errors.I ran the stress test for less than 3 minutes... 14336 errors.
that's not good, is it?


My motherboard does not have onboard graphics, nor do I have any other PCI-e graphics card lying around. I do have a PCI graphics card - nVidia Riva 128 (from 1997) - I doubt it'll be of any use.

I just NOTICED- the weird lines are gone! ?? come to think of it, none has appeared since i ran Video Memory Stress Test utility!

I'm running a full test now...

What else can I do to troubleshoot?

:edit:
full test done. results are in:
The Video Memory is failing. Is either the GPU itself or it's memory overclocked?


it's all factory, I haven't changed anything with the graphics card.

I think it's still under warranty...

the graphics card will still work for a while longer, right? it wouldn't just *break* if I restart the computer? The GPU core is evidently still working, but I suggest you make use of the warranty. When did it start to fail and what were the first symptoms? Did it occur abruptly after a reboot? No the graphics card won't just fail if you reboot your computer now, only some of the VRAM NAND chips are faulty.

Okay so recently I have bought a Bamboo Tablet. When I plug the tablet in at the same time as my headphone set (they are Logitech Headphones) the sound from the headphones becomes distorted. However, when I unplug the headphones they work properly, sound also is fine when the speakers are used. Does anyone know how fix this?Have you tried anther headphone?
Have you put the headphone into something else to crest it out?
Does the headphone have a in line VOLUME control? ID so, have you tried DIFFERENT settings for the volume controls to see what WORKS best?

What do the specs for the Bamboo Tablet say? Does it require special headphones?

Hey, what is a Bamboo Tablet anyway?

You post has ambiguity.  Which means I don't understand what your said. Can you re phrase the question?

Want to play swtor on my pc (played on my gaming rig but it gone atm)

My specs are ok

And my gpu meets the requirements except its shader 2.0 Instead of 3.0

Is that a big deal? Can I STILL run it minimum settingsd at 15 fps? Tbh that's all I need.Probably won't run...but you can try it.From the SWTOR website:
"Star Wars: The Old Republic requires a video card that has a minimum of 256MB of on-board RAM as well as support for Shader 3.0 or better."

If your card doesn't support shader 3.0, SWTOR will probably not WORK. You will need to upgrade to a card that does. I had the same problem when the first Mass Effect came out. It required 2.0, but the card I had only supported 1.0 and the game would refuse to launch. Given it's the same company (Bioware) I expect SWTOR would do the same.

There is also a 7-day free trial, however you can only get in on that through an invitation from a friend who has an active account. If you don't have any friends that play that COULD invite you, send me your email address in a private message (don't post it here) and I'd be more than happy to send you an invite.

Also make sure you MEET the rest of the system requirements:
Source: http://www.swtor.com/info/faq
Quote

What are the system requirements for the game?

Processor:

AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual-Core 4000+ or better
Intel Core 2 Duo 2.0GHz or better
Operating System:

Windows XP Service Pack 3 or later
RAM:

Windows XP: 1.5GB RAM
Windows Vista and Windows 7: 2GB RAM
Note: PCs using a built-in graphical chipset are recommended to have 2GB of RAM.
Star Wars: The Old Republic requires a video card that has a minimum of 256MB of on-board RAM as well as support for Shader 3.0 or better. Examples include:

ATI X1800 or better
nVidia 7800 or better
Intel 4100 Integrated Graphics or better
DVD-ROM drive – 8x speed or better (required for installation from physical editions only)
Internet connection required to play.

So I bought an nVidia 560 ti at the beginning of the year (replacing my 9500GT), installed it and everything was dandy for a few hours playing skryim when the buzzing came from my tower! I lowered the graphics to its bare minimum but it would only make it a softer buzzing. I haven't played skyrim since. The internet was telling me that it was dust, or its normal to heat up like that during GAMES with intense graphics, but I beg to differ.. It makes the same noise and heats up just as quickly whilst playing world of warcraft at ITS bare minimum. Please, if anyone could assist me I just want to know what I need to replace.. I've taken it to a repair guy (spare me jargon if you could, I don't know much) and it makes the noise with many other graphics cards.. Does this mean it could be the power supply? The heatsink? Please tell me this is easily fixed Any help is GREATLY appreciated, I begin to worry for my system..Get the newest version of GPU-Z and use it to check the temp of your card.I use the software the graphics card came with, EXPERTool, and am monitoring the heat every 5 seconds.. when its not making noises (which is COMPLETELY random..) it SITS at around 35. When it decides to start buzzing whilst playing a game, itll increase literally a degree every two seconds until I alt tab to cool it off or it decides to stop.. Possibly the fan bearing has gone bad and is not providing enough airflow through the heatsink... thus causing the buzzing you speak of. When there is load on your graphics card and temps increase the drivers force the fan to increase speed.So you're saying it could be the fan? or the heatsink? Because when I lean my head near it to get an idea of where the SOUND is COMING from, it's really close to the graphics card, and the fans fine The heatsink is just solid metal.. it shouldn't make a sound, unless it's not fastened properly.... Are you sure the fan is working properly?

Take the computer out of the case and run it on a piece of cardboard/on a test rack, that way you'll be able to pinpoint the source of the buzzing noise more effectively.

Or... the "buzzing noise" you mention could just be coil whine, like in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNGn_SSOzKE MAY be coming from the inductors/"chokes" on your graphics card.buzzing? sounds like something touching the fan when it's in the case. make sure the cables and stuff is clear of the fan.
not like it's never happened to me... before I got my Corsair 800D (it's so spacious inside!) my case was a bit crowded with cables and this and that... inevitably came the day after a cleaning with the air compressor I heard a buzzing from within the case- found out a cable was interfering with the CPU fan!

alternative is power supply being over loaded... the power needs of the newer GPUs are very different from say, a 9500GT. does the buzzing by any chance is low-frequency- about the same as the 60 Hz electrical mains buzz? then tehre's some issue with the Power Supply or your computer's connection to the electrical supply. (or it could be that there's something wrong with your electricity.. if you have a voltmeter that can measure the mains voltage and know how to do so properly, you can check and see if it's within spec- between 110 and 127 volts.)

I've heard some things making that 60 Hz buzz but never my computer! the 60 Hz buzz often indicates too much power draw, loose connection/bad connection, or when running a heavy inductive load. sometimes lightbulbs makes this buzz too (but very rarely).thanks guys alot of sources have been telling me it is the power supply, theyve had the same issue. just needed some other opinions. cheers!

all i need is a yes no answer and how if yesYou EXCEL at never providing enough INFO for us to assist...

Just an observation on my part.Hi

No you can't.

Lisa

Yes, A Ethernet CABLE can connect the TWO computers.  It may have to be a cross-over cable.

Does that answer you question?  You did not say if the laptop motherboard was functional. I assume it is and has its own power supply, its own RAM  its own keyboard and display and media with an OS.

Is that want you WANTED no know?

I am getting ready to swap out my bad board.  Can I take the heatsink and cpu out without detatching them and put it on the new board?The heatsink attaches to the MOTHERBOARD.  The cpu attaches to the socket.  How would you propose to remove them as one unit?I believe he means the CPU heatsink which resides on top of the CPU...not the MBoard...
Yes they can be removed as one unit but however it's a good time to seperate them and apply new thermal PASTE... Quote from: jogee on April 28, 2012, 03:03:10 PM

I am getting ready to swap out my bad board.  Can I take the heatsink and cpu out without detaching them and put it on the new board?

The fan is inside the heatsink.  None of the board layouts that I have seen show this.

Most modern CPU's have a small angle cut in one corner to properly line it up slot wise...
Just be patient and take your time and you should do fine...

I strongly suggest re-doing the thermal paste...

Thermal Paste Guide...

Also many people find it easier to install the CPU/Heatsink/Fan combo with the MBoard out of the case...

I am trying to diagnose a BSOD that says something about winlogon being corrupted. Before the BSOD occurs, I can hear the hard DRIVE spinning down. Is it meant to do that or not? If not, I am assuming there is something wrong with the hard drive, it's shutting down, and then causing the BSOD because the files can't be read.

I am going to attempt a chkdsk while we discuss this because I am THINKING it might just be a corrupted file system.

EDIT: Completed chkdsk with no problems found.1) If you are going to run checkdisk, the correct command is chkdsk /r

20 Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next replyI think I figured it out already. I had installed some additional RAM in the system when the problem started occurring. I did a RAM test (and it was good), so I assumed the problem was something else, however I just took out one stick of RAM and it works now. It's weird though because it doesn't matter which stick I take out. I guess it simply can't HANDLE more than 3 RAM sticks at a time.Given your concerns re the computer's abilities in the area of RAM.I suggest rather than guess you run a crucial scan with whatever you had in the computer ORIGINALLY and the test should tell you what you do have and what amount and type you can add.We don't know the computer brand and MODEL nor what you had/what you added.Both with regards to compatibility and how much more(if any) you can add.truenorth Quote

what you do have and what amount and type you can add

using wow streaming client and its only downloaded 14 gb but showing 30 gb on says but only 14 on disk
dad only ALLOWED me to use 20 gb on hdd
So anyway to get it to only show size on disk when looking in hdd pie chart?
Not sure what your asking...
The DLoad folder is going to show actual contents...
As far as CHANGING that to keep Dad happy delete backup and delete anything you don't need from there anymore.
Once you DLoad something if you burn it to CD/DVD it no longer needs to reside in the DLoad folder.

You may want to ask for a better ISP plan as a birthday present this year.http://www.jam-software.com/freeware/He wants to hide the size of his DLoads...not define them...if i read it correctly. Any. Way to editor. And CHANGE folder to show 14 gb instead of 30 gbp?
Like REGEDIT No, and if there was we couldn't help you circumvent your parent's restrictions. Thread locked.

I have Windows 7 Enterprise 64bit Edition SP1
I installed 2 more sticks of 4gb Kingston HyperX RAM 1333MHZ
I went into BIOS and changed RAM from Auto to 1333mhz
As you can SEE in the picture only 7.96 out of the 16gb of ram I have is usable and reading
Could SOMEONE please help or suggest a solution to how I can fix this
Please zoom in when looking at the picture but here it is
http://www.hotimg.com/direct/rZzyEAV.jpg
Possibly your motherboard only supports a max of 8GB RAM?
Try resetting CMOS and reseat your RAM and see what happens. Reboot. STILL only 7.96 GB usable? Check if there's a memory remap function in your BIOS, if there is, enable it. What is the make and model of your motherboard?And what happened when it was set to "Auto"?When it was set to auto it said the same thing. My motherboard is the Sabertooth 990fx which I know it supports 16gb of ram
I have no clue what the problem isRAM is being reported CORRECTLY by Windows...
If you use the X2 multiplier for Task Mangers readings it ADDS up.

Try another app such as CPU-Z and see how it's reported.

Hi
I do volentary WORK at a local community center fixing computers for the local community. I am but a beginer in this area. We take in a lot of old pc and take them apart for spares and as i am relitive new there i am tring to tide things up. So to the root of my question we have a lot of cpu's stored away and would like to know if there is any way of testing them outside of a COMPUTER or any way of SETTING up a single motherboard to TEST different sorts of cpu's.Nope.
Each CPU needs the correspomding MBoard to be tested...
I'm sure there's a PIECE of testbench hardware to do what you want but would probably be cost prohibitive.

hi,,
         i want to download a VIDEO from you tube but its download not FULL and GIVEN a problem that its not done complete full but only 1.69Mb or 2.34Mb PLZZ tell me how can i solve this problem
 Try emptying the cache and then increasing the SIZE of the cache. Let's see if that helps.


Scroll down to #7 and expand it: http://www.microsoft.com/atwork/remotely/connections.aspx

My AMI BIOS VGA white on black boot screen font is so large that the left edge is not visible. Is there a BIOS setting I should look for to change it? There are no BIOS settings for this.  The monitor has adjustments for this, hit the "Pause" button on the keyboard to halt the cpu, ADJUST the monitor, then hit Return to CONTINUE the boot process."Mikey likes it" ... Funny - the things that never occurred to me. I knew 'Pause' & I knew the monitor 'Auto Adjust' button, but didn't guess that it could adjust differently in the DOS Boot screen than in the GUI ! How does that work ? I'm learning, with difficulty, to ACCEPT the things that work, even when I don't understand them.

Thank you.Monitors are able to auto-synchronize the image they are presented.  The desktop image resolution doesn't arrive until Windows is mostly through loading.And monitor memory can distinguish TWO types of write - BIOS & GUI ?BIOS screen is 80x25 (80 COLUMN by 25 lines), text screen.  Windows is a graphics (pixel) display.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IBM_5151
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Display_resolution

Dumb question........is PCI-E  and  PCI - Express the same thing No, not exactly the same. Just close. And dumb questions are allowed. I can provide dumb answers, if needed.

PCI was a great improvement over what we had before. Then the time came for something better. so the PCI bus was feed steroids and... Just kidding!

Here is a good outline of what they did.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PCI_Express

Basically, The AGP thing was a dud. They kept changing it. Drove NORMAL gentry to extreme agitation. So the PCI express fulled a dire need.I think perhaps Geek misread what you said the first time. Yes, they are the same.

PCI-E (or PCIe) and PCI Express are the same thing. PCI Express is what you find in most COMPUTERS now. It replaced AGP, PCI-X, and PCI. PCIe SUPPORTS a number of different things (graphics cards, sound cards, etc.)

AGP was the "better than PCI" slot for graphics cards, but that was all it was good for, graphics cards. It was around for maybe 7 or 8 years before PCIe came in and made AGP look stupid.

PCI-X (or PCIx) is different from PCI Express. PCI-X is the one that is PCI on steroids. It was like the old 32-bit PCI slots, but twice as long for larger bandwidth. Used mostly in server boards back in the day.

PCI (no other lettering or words) is yet another different and older type of slot. These slots were used for many expansion cards (network, graphics, audio, just about anything) and phased out the VLB and ISA slots commonly FOUND on boards before that.So then technically i can install a PCI-E video card in a PCE-Express slot ? Quote

So then technically i can install a PCI-E video card in a PCE-Express slot

So then technically i can install a PCI-E video card in a PCE-Express slot ?

It says so right on the motherboard ??

I'm quite certain A system will not have AGP (on-board or otherwise) and PCI-Express.

one of my computers has a on board AGP slot

this computer that I speak of has an on board AGP and a PCI-Express slot.

The computer that we speak of has a motherboard with a "On board AGP connector

i have charter CABLE internet and the tech set everything up

but it was a while ago, and my desktop is CONNECTED  via ethernet, but want to connect my tablet via wifi. and i dont REMEMBER the password

my modem is a cisco dpc2325, if i just push the reset button, (default username and password is BLANK blank) and go to 192.168.0.1 , will i be able to reconfigure the password for wifi?

i am just scared that if i push the reset button, my connection will drop, and ill have to call a tech to get it back.

it HAPPEND to me before when i had ATT dsl. (badtimesman.jpg)The best thing is to con tact tech support. An write the settings down in a safe place.

Doing a hard reset on the modem /router will give you control of the router, but it may lose your internet connection.

Better to ask.

BTW: The browser can save passwords for you.

My computer shut down HARD LAST night and it sounds as though all FANS and power are active yet it will not restart. is it possible that the hard drive has SEIZED? when I try to restart, the hard drive seems abnormally quiet.I will apologize now for not reading the "read this first"

its a dell 9150 from 2005
and the power light that is NORMALLY green when on is flashing orange

All I get is a black screen. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PoNh1IoStFkWhat is new or different since the last time EVERYTHING WORKED properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

Your last post said you were trying to improve the graphics. What did you do?Thanks for the reply. I DECIDED against trying to upgrade the graphics in my laptop as it looked too complex for me.
I did have windows 8 consumers preview installed as a dual BOOT option with win 7 but decided to uninstal it.
I used this guide for the uninstall: http://www.howtogeek.com/75878/how-to-uninstall-or-remove-windows-8-from-your-dual-boot-setup/

I thought I followed the guide correctly but I guess not because my computer won't start up. 

If you know a FIX that i could try, i would appreciate it.

Thanks again.