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Hi all,

I am currently trying to create a workstation in my room with the use of multiple monitors. I have already purchased 2x Asus VS228H-P Monitors to kick start this project.
I have 1x VGA and 1x HDMI inputs into my laptop. I was just wondering if it is possible to run both of my monitors with my single laptop (connecting one monitor via VGA and the other via HDMI).
If both monitors are connected, I don't plan on using my laptop's display.

I have also looked into external video cards and other forms of hardware (ie. Matrox dualhead2go), and as these options can be quite pricey, I am looking for a WAY to avoid shelling out 1 to 2 bills.
I don't plan on doing any intense gaming or video/picture editing, just a university student using WORD, powerpoint, onenote etc. and occasional facebook/youtube. A bit of my computer info is listed below: 


Computer info:
- Lenovo Y650 Ideapad laptop
- Video card: Mobile Intel(R) 4 Series Express Chipset Family (1759 MB)
- Operating System: Windows VISTA
- Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo 2.53Ghz

Thank you all for your help,

Cheers

Do a Google search.
Three displays from one laptop
This one may be what you are wanting:
2 monitors + laptop
And ,the answer he GOT was NO.

Avast virus says system is clean., SUPERANTIVIRUS says its clean.
Hard drive has  50 gigs of free space. Just ran combofix. beolw is result:

I deleted your log and moved your post out of the malware section for now. Please explain your problem IN DETAIL - including EXACTLY what the problems are, when they began, what led up to them, and tell us about your system.Computer ran slow and was infected with 6 viruses avast could'nt  remove. Realscheduler.exe was one. I formatted system drive and re installed win xp pro. I now have Panda antivirus as 1st line and Avast antivirus 2nd line. Avast gives this option. It was running at the same speed prior to adding Avast. I also have Superantspywarepro.I know somethings still wrong because of how programs close. When I close a PROGRAM or window it starts deleting the window from left to rt top to bottom slow enough to notice. That's the behavior I see when a computer has a virus or is low on storage. Again, both av say the system is clean and   there is 64.5 gigs of free space on the  drive that has windows installed.First of all you are using two antivirus programs. Using more than one antivirus programs same time having both resident may cause conflict, causing system to run slow.

i advice you to uninstall one of them...
do a restart, and look for the effect.NEVER have more than one anti virus application installed. Pick the one you want and COMPLETELY uninstall the other.i will prefer to keep avast...
as besides being free, it has a nice detection and killng rate...
on the other hand it provdes boot time scan...an upper hand over its counterparts.....the webrep as linkscanner and sandbox to install files in a virtually isolated environment (presently for INTERNET explorer only).....
yup it has bit slow scanner engine when you go for full scan. but its easy to use UI is too good for entry level users easy to use yet have suffic features. the nice thing included it has p2p shield too.....it's another matter that v don't recommend to use p2p clients as they are the biggest virus spreading media.....Removing panda av did not speed up computer. I ended up reinstalling windows again and I now have Kapersky AV. It runs much better. Quote from: truejazz on May 15, 2012, 09:29:32 AM

Removing panda av did not speed up computer. I ended up reinstalling windows again and I now have Kapersky AV. It runs much better.

Thanks Please chat if you know any suggestionsPlease helpThis is a forum, not a chat room. Please do not bump your post. Someone will help in DUE time. Meanwhile, you might want to provide as much information about your problem and system as you can.i bought this laptop for my birthday and it kept doing launch repair so we took it to comet and they fixed it and told us to do a backup disk but it kept saying not available and we can't do it , then today i turned it on it said starting windows, Then it normally goes onto the log in thing it stayed on the light was on but the screen turned right of i . tried taking the battery out STILL did the same thing !If your birthday was less than 12 months ago, take it back to Comet.
To further enhance your CH forum experiences when asking for member assistance it would serve you better if you acted according to Allan's advice. The really only possibly relevant information you provided so far is the possibility that it may still be under warranty (depending when this was "i bought this laptop for my birthday "). Which is why Salmon Trout has given the suggestion he has. However the information you give should tell us what the operating system of the COMPUTER is/what brand and MODEL of computer your dealing with/everything that you can think of to describe your issue/what event may have occurred coincident to the 1st occurrence of the problem/what if any changes did you make to software/hardware that was at the time of the problem occurring. More information than less is ALWAYS preferable. Please do NOT make us pull teeth to help you. Members will EITHER NOT respond or won't stick around long. For your future guidance.truenorth

Have a PC that has the internet slowed down to a halt and many programs left unresponsive.  it will occasionally go into a black screen where only the mouse cursor is visible. 
I ran malwarebytes, adaware and avast scans in safe mode and came up with NOTHING.  the hijackthis after the scans is below.
(running windows 7)

Thanks for any help!



I deleted your log and moved the post to this forum. If we suspect malware we can address it at a later time. For now, please answer a couple of questions.

1 What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?

2 What happens when you boot to safe mode - do you have the same problem(s)?

3 Please provide some information about your systemMy partner downloaded a program called Pazera Free FLV to AVI converter, and the same day we had problems, so I suspect a virus/trojan. 

The internet slows to a crawl on the pc, but on my wireless laptop, all is good.  The BROWSER is unresponsive, and most programs are as well.  Even clicking on the start button takes time to load, and sometimes shutting down doesn't work so I have to hold the power button.  It slows down, then goes back to normal, but eventually it comes to a crawl and the screen turns black. 

I was only in safe mode to run the scans, but everything seems fine, of course I can't get online, but the scanning software worked. 

Windows 7 Home Premium SP1
HP p7-1019
Intel Pentium CPU G620


edit:  I'm in safe mode and I just opened FLV and Firefox and now the windows are giving trails. 

Quote from: reisender on May 14, 2012, 10:37:42 PM

My partner downloaded a program called Pazera Free FLV to AVI converter, and the same day we had problems, so I suspect a virus/trojan. 

I have a tower PC with Windows XP and my PROBLEM is that my speakers are making lot of noise especially when the microphone comes in front of them. When I remove the microphone, they behave alright. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. RELOCATE the speakers to a location where the occurrence cannot  happen.truenorthWhat program are you using? Normally speakers are off when recording. Exceptions are Skype, Google Talk and similar programs that require adjusting spacing and angle between microphone and speaker. Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 13, 2012, 11:10:55 AM

What program are you using? Normally speakers are off when recording. Exceptions are Skype, Google Talk and similar programs that require adjusting spacing and angle between microphone and speaker.

My computer will give BSODs ever since I--as far as I know--accidentally pulled out the monitor cable behind the computer tower. I put it back in and all, so maybe that's not the cause, I just don't know how it started. But if a HiJack This log tells you what you need to know to help me, I've attached it. I don't WANT to give you any erroneous info, I just want the BSODs to end so I can actually use my computer for more than 5 minutes before it gets another BSOD. (which is what happens anytime I'm not in Safe Mode) I'd like this handled ASAP, as soon as someone can. Thanks!

HiJackThis log: http://www.computer-juice.com/forums/attachments/f49/1755d1336151015-bsods-hijack-log-inside-hijackthis.zip

    P.S.
    I don't want to mislead anyone with any BSODs that -may- not matter, but in case it helps in conjunction with the attached HiJackThis log, examples of BSODs stop errors and MENTIONED filenames I got include:
    The driver is mismanaging system PTEs. (I uninstalled and manually reinstalled the latest NVIDIA graphics driver as a result of this BSOD)
    DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
    tcpip.sys
    REFERENCE BY POINTER
    rr172x.sys
MEMORY_MANAGEMENT
MULTIPLE_IRP_COMPLETE_REQUESTS

P.P.S.
Something I've been wondering about as a possible cause is that in Device Manager, under Processors, it lists four "Intel(R) Xeon(TM) CPU 3.06GHz" ITEMS with yellow triangle exclamation(!) marks by their icons, as seen from this screen capture:
http://i46.tinypic.com/2mcvbsn.jpg
I've been wondering if it's safe to uninstall the [nonexistent?] drivers for those to possibly improve something? Thanks Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply

Quote from: Allan on May 07, 2012, 04:36:11 PM

Download BlueScreenView:
http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/blue_screen_view.html
unzip downloaded file and double click on BlueScreenView.exe to run the program.
when scanning is done, go to EDIT - Select All
Go to FILE - SAVE Selected Items, and save the report as BSOD.txt
Open BSOD.txt in Notepad, copy all of the content, and paste it into your next reply

Something I've been wondering about as a possible cause is that in Device Manager, under Processors, it lists four "Intel(R) Xeon(TM) CPU 3.06GHz" items with yellow triangle exclamation(!) marks by their icons, as seen from this screen capture:

DLoad and re-install your MBoard chipset drivers...no need to remove the old ones.
Re-boot afterwards.

Here is a link to a free utility that when performed will give you an exhaustive list of all the hardware components of your computer. It should answer the specifics of your motherboard thus allowing you to search for and find the appropriate chipset driver that patio is referring you to. I would recommend that once the scan is complete that you print out all the resultant data as chances are it will come in handy for future use and problem solving.
http://majorgeeks.com/download4181.html
truenorth

Its the MBoard manuf. chipset drivers you want...not the specific chipset itself....did you determine who's MBoard it is ? ?

http://www.tyan.com/archive/products/html/tigeri7505.html

This is a 6 year old motherboard which not have support for Win7.  You won't find the chipset drivers here.  You may be able to find them on Intel's website.

The BSOD's could be due to the installation of improper drivers.  That's why Allan said to reinstall the chipset drivers.
They are here:  http://www.intel.com/p/en_US/support/highlights/chpsts/e7505
None are for any OS past WinXP.  You may not be able to use Win7 on this computer.
Has it ever worked correctly with Win7?  If yes, then delete all the yellow flagged ones in the Device Manger & let Win7 resinstall them.  I will happen automatically after you delete them & reboot.

I am currently using a Intel i7 - 2600K CPU - LGA 1155 for gaming, photoshop and video editing.

I just GOT a Fatal1ty X79 motherboard as a gift. This is an LGA 2011 socket so I need a new CPU.

My situation is that I have limited money, so I need and LGA 2011 CPU that is better performer then the 2600K, but I don't think I can spend more then $300-$400.

What do you think is my best choice?

I see the Intel CORE i7-3820 - 3.6GHz is around $300 and the Intel Xeon E5-2620 - 2.0GHz is around $400, which is better?

How much better is the 3820 vs. 2600K? Hi there hankfarkas

The 3820 has some improvements over the 2600k, such as more cache and it supports 4 channels of DDR3 1600 memory (the 2600k supports dual channel DDR3 1066/1333).
One disadvantage of the 3820 is that it doesn't come with a heatsink/fan - definitely not a deal breaker and this may not even be a problem if you use aftermarket CPU cooling.
The 3820 doesn't have integrated graphics like the 2600k does, but with this nice of a CPU/Motherboard and your gaming, photoshop, and video editing it would be best for you to use a dedicated graphics card ANYWAY. As for the Xeon E5-2620, It is a newer and better CPU, with more cache and 6 cores as apposed to the 3820's 4 cores. Despite this I would personally go for the 3820, as its cheaper and will have plenty of muscle for your applications.

Here is a link to newegg comparing the newer 3820 to  your current 2600k:
HTTP://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=-1&IsNodeId=1&Description=intel%202600k&bop=And&CompareItemList=-1|19-115-229^19-115-229-TS%2C19-115-070^19-115-070-TS

Mike


Short answer. The improvements are not revolutionary. They are evolutionary.  They are incremental and will have little impact on what you really do. Who told you to get a new CPU?

Here is the setup:
6 iMacs numbered 1 through 6
7 various Mac laptops
2 epson stylus photo 1400 printers named A and B

The printers are attached via usb to iMacs 1 and 3, A is on 1 and B is on 3, both printers are shared and installed on all machines.
On iMac 1, 2 and 6 the default is A, on iMac 3, 4 and 5 the default is B. All computers are wireless and running 10.5.8-10.7.
This is a photo lab and they use Photoshop Elements 9 for their picture editing.

When a student tries to print from 4 to B through the shared connection on 3 the print queue on 4 shows it going through, but on 3 the queue comes up with an error and nothing prints. When a student tries to print from 1 to A (the wired connection) the queue shows "printing" for about 3 minutes and there there is an error.

I was able to print a page from a pdf on 3 to B, but could not print from 3 to A.

Everything looks ok, but this printing problem is happening in the worst classroom at the worst time. Projects are being finalized and they need to be printed up. Any ideas on why this has suddenly stopped working?

I posted this to hardware because I don't think it is a Mac problem.

***Just tried pasting a picture into a Word document for printing from 2 to A through 1 and got the same error.

***The error looks like /Contents/MacOS/rastertoescpll failed.

***More strangeness, just connected a Macbook to B via usb and tried to print, the queue came up as "printer offline". Copied the picture to flash drive, plugged it into 3 to print to B and a miracle, it printed. Not quite feasible with 6 or 7 classes needing to print so still looking to fix the overall problem.Still not printing the way it should.

Any help is REALLY appreciated.

Thanks.You are using 13 computers on a local network. You want to share two printers.On some computers is always works. On others it sometimes works.

What kind of network? Does it use a router?
Is this a network recommended to you by a salesman?

Why did you not use printers made for networking?
Or are both network printers? Is so, why are you using the USB ports?

Shared USB printers have some issues tat have been documented elsewhere.  Better performance comes with printers the WORK directly with the network.  You may wish to investigate a router that has printer sharing built-in.
Did not think I would get an answer.

Ok

The computers are all wireless and get online through an an access point using 802.11n in the classroom. There is no router only the AP, the teacher WANTED to use only Macs and they all came from the DOE setup wirelessly.

The photo teacher is big on family/industry participation and the printers were donated. Since they are color and can print 11x17 she was not picky. No they are not network printers, only usb. I suggested getting network printers but she has a limited talent budget and the authorized list of hardware (that we can order from once or twice a year), for the school does not include these types of printers.

We have to work with what we have.begin dictation
There are many volunteers here on this forum that want to help you.  Having all Macs in the system is no problem.  The issue is the printers you have selected are not network ready printers.  This means the USB connection places an additional load on the network.  I am not sure exactly why that is so, but it has been documented elsewhere. But it is part of the reason why printers have to be network ready to work reliably in a network with more than two or three computers.

But believes the solution to your problem is going to be more social than technical.  It's understandable the DEPARTMENT has a limited budget, and, unfortunately, buying decisions are often made only on the most simple analysis of quality and cost.

Please pardon me as the grammar or forewords  doesn't seem right.  I am severely handicapped and I have to do this by voice dictation.  Otherwise i d have to give you a very short her response.

Perhaps you can initiate some effort to communicate with the parents or others outside the school.  Once they realize there is a need for a specific piece of equipment, they may work TOGETHER and perhaps make an independent??? will make an independent choice  about buying a piece of new equipment and donated to the school with the stipulation that has to be used for specific purpose.  That's why I say it becomes a social issue more than technical one.

It is possible to find patches and updates to the USB drivers that will correct problems you have with the network.  However, the amount of man hours it takes to do such is unreasonable.  So in essence, there is no such thing as a zero cost technical repair.

My best recommendation is for the donation of good wireless print server that will connect to both printers using USB ports.  It should be possible to locate such a device for under $200.  If the parents realize him how important it is to have this extra piece of equipment.  They may find some way to form an ad hoc committee and resolve the issue.
But rather than just take my word for this, find out if there is a IT professional among the parents are their relatives that understand exactly what I'm confident about. He can either fly with what I said, or kill it and tell you I'm talking through my_____.
end dictation.Given the limited budget and the other constraints you have i am going to propose a possible solution which will require a small amount of hardware (printer/usb cables-- which you may already have). I assume that it has already been determined that the USB printer has software that is compatible with all the computers. So install the printer software on all computers. Given that the printer can only print one job at a time have each computer with the pertinent printer/usb cables installed on each one. When a particular student needs to do a print job have them insert their printer/usb cable into the printer(removing it when done so it can be used by another student), Alternatively only make one of the computers the one for the printing tasks if that does not diminish the opportunities for student learning. If the 1st suggestion is used it may be NECESSARY to have a removal/installation protocol (instruction to the student of how to do so properly) so as to not cause problems for printer access, truenorthGeek-9PM, Truenorth, thanks for the replies.

I will speak with the photo teacher and she in turn will take it to the parents or photo pros about getting network printers. The printers are installed on all the comupters, but the "plug in and print" option was used and found to be disruptive. It was the 6 iMacs and 7 laptops being used by kids that all wanted to see their work on paper. That is just the 13 out of 30 and 6th, 7th and 8th graders are not known for their patience.

It is less than 6 weeks until the end of school so new equipment is highly unlikely. I will be putting this at the top of the list of NEEDED equipment for the hardware order once school resumes in the fall. Until then I will make sure the machines are patched and keep my fingers crossed that nothing else weird happens.

Thanks again.I have found  dual port wireless print servers at both Newegg and Amazon for about $120. Just one one of  these will let you use the equipment you have. One print server connects by USB  to the two printers and it manages the print jobs for all computers in the same network.
TRENDnet Wireless 2-Port Multi-Function Print Server


Thanks, I ran a search on ebay and found the following. It might be a better fit in case the teacher wants to keep the printers and gets more that only have usb ports. This one has 4 usb vs 2 on the other. I checked the model on D-Link's site for retailers and apparently it is very popular as they are all out of stock. I am heading up to see the teacher how, she should like this.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/D-Link-DPR-1260-Wireless-Lan-Multifunction-PRINT-SERVER-/200759660945?pt=US_Print_Servers&hash=item2ebe355191

Excellent choice!  D-Link is a brand name. In 2007, it was the leading networking company in the small to medium business (SMB) segment worldwide with 21.9% market share
Why is the price so low? Just US $34.99 free shipping
Quote

This item is NEW OPEN BOX on manufacturer direct warranty.

Hello
When I push the power on the COMPUTER does not boot.
It immediately goes to a distorted Dell screen and freezes.
There are TWO horizontal fuzzy/grainy bars in the middle of the screen.
None of the commands work.

Dell Inspiron 530
Windows Vista Basic

Imade no changes.
It does not restart.
Ihave to hold the power button down to get it to shut off.
Thanks foir your HELP!SOUNDS like it could be a bad VIDEO card. Do you hear any beeps when it tries to boot?yea it made a few different beeps.
today it made a long flat-line beep.
thanks for your helpI'd start by replacing the video card.

Hi,

I have downloaded sims 3 and when i start it everything seems to be Ok, but when i want to make a sim, his head is deformed, its stretched out.

Does anyone now how to fix this??

Here is a dxdiag

Display DEVICES
---------------
          Card name: ATI Mobility Radeon HD 4200 Series
       Manufacturer: Advanced Micro Devices, Inc.
          Chip type: ATI display adapter (0x9712)
           DAC type: Internal DAC(400MHz)
         Device Key: Enum\PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_9712&SUBSYS_1665103C&REV_00
     Display Memory: 2919 MB
   Dedicated Memory: 1257 MB
      SHARED Memory: 1661 MB
       Current Mode: 1600 x 900 (32 bit) (60Hz)
       Monitor Name: Algemeen PnP-beeldscherm
      Monitor Model: unknown
         Monitor Id: CMO1719
        Native Mode: 1600 x 900(p) (60.008Hz)
        Output Type: Internal
        Driver Name: aticfx64.dll,aticfx64.dll,aticfx32,aticfx32,atiumd64.dll,atidxx64.dll,atiumdag,atidxx32,atiumdva,atiumd6a.cap,atitmm64.dll
Driver File Version: 8.17.0010.1124 (English)
     Driver Version: 8.961.0.0
        DDI Version: 10.1
       Driver Model: WDDM 1.1
  Driver Attributes: Final Retail
   Driver Date/Size: 4/6/2012 04:20:04, 1067520 bytes
        WHQL Logo'd: Yes
    WHQL Date Stamp:
  Device Identifier: {D7B71EE2-D452-11CF-E877-6F36BEC2C535}
          Vendor ID: 0x1002
          Device ID: 0x9712
          SubSys ID: 0x1665103C
        Revision ID: 0x0000



Seems to be alright...

I hope someone can help me, because if i go to the EA they say they will have some one to look for it and then they send my e-mail but they didn't...

thank you.Do you play with any CUSTOM content?Check your display settings in the game over in the graphics settings tab. Also, check your screen resolution on your COMPUTER. Sometimes older hardware is unable to play at that high of rates. Also, note that some LCD screens stretch the image to fit it full screen. That can make playing the Sims 3 quite unrealistic with the graphics. Blow is an image of the Sims 3 graphics settings to help you set it up.
Hope this HELPS,


[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]Where did you download it from? Quote from: blindhelpfultech on May 14, 2012, 07:48:49 PM

Check your display settings in the game over in the graphics settings tab. Also, check your screen resolution on your computer. Sometimes older hardware is unable to play at that high of rates. Also, note that some LCD screens stretch the image to fit it full screen. That can make playing the Sims 3 quite unrealistic with the graphics. Blow is an image of the Sims 3 graphics settings to help you set it up.
Hope this helps,

Do you play with any Custom content?

Where did you download it from?

Downloaded It with an torrent, i tried more then one, but still Same problem.

i got a laptop which runs hot i know that my laptop can reproduce hd vids but it freezes when watching videos it runs at 50C, is it the temperature which makes the
laptop freeze? processor model MOBILE AMD Athlon 64 Processor 2800+ Is this the same computer you were dealing with for this problem in March "yeah apple is over rated but my 4year old laptop over heats of poor design and it smells like MELTING plastic "? If so what have you done to correct it since that post?truenorthcheck the laptop all ineed is why does the cpu get hot when not in use
Quote from: computer 12 on May 17, 2012, 08:16:03 AM

check the laptop all ineed is why does the cpu get hot when not in use

I have a program that runs out of DOS and after the program starts it requires that the hotkeys be used.  I've sucessfully run the program on some older AT machines in the past.  On newer PS2 style computers the program starts but using the hotkeys causes the screen to go blank.  I can use ctrl break to stop the program and return to DOS after that happens.  I thought that maybe it was something to do with the AT style keyboard vs the PS2 style however I just rebuilt an older AT machine and the hotkeys do the same thing.

I'm beginning to think it may be something in the video card or video setup that doesn't recognize the hotkey function and causes the screen to go blank.

Does anyone have any experience with this?
 
What program ? ?
We thrive on details here...It's a program written for a specific software platform I have that I use to control test machines.  I own a small testing lab and we use an older test controller called an Interlaken 3200 for controlling hydraulic actuators. The platform is older (vintage 1990) and runs out of DOS.  We love it because it never, ever crashes.  Each controller is it's own box with signal conditioning cards, power supply, computer board, etc.  We use an AT level machine to program the box and communicate with the controller. There is one piece of software ( called UTP Universal Test Program) which is launched to actually program tests and dsiplay feedback from the controller box.  The software basically provides a screen with pull down tabs where the operator can input test parameters such as test frequency, number of cycles, loads. strains,etc.  Sometimes the computer will lose communications with the controller box.  When this happens communications are reestablished through the RS232 data link by running a Basic Intertest program called TERMINAL.  This is where the problem starts.  TERMINAL is started from a DOS prompt and when it starts requires the use of the function keys f1 thru f6.  Some AT machines will do this fine other respond with a blank screen.  I can't put my finger on what is DIFFERENT.

A couple more details, none of the function  keys seem to work when I am using a computer that has this problem.  The function key f2 is set up to RUN the program.  The manual says I should just be able to type RUN but this doesn't seem to get anywhere either.

I know that the program I am trying to run is an Intertest Basic Program.  Intertest Basic is a language based on PDOS Basic form Eyring adapted for this controller platform.

I have had a local computer repair shop basically clone the drive from a working AT machine onto a different AT machine and I run into this problem using the function keys.  If communication is already established with the Controller box then the new machine finctions fine in all other regards,  I jst can't run the TERMINAL program to re-establish communication if necessary because it requires the function keys.
 Have you compared the autoexec and config.sys files between the working and non working ones ? ?No I had not , but I just did and there are a few differences.  Since I'm limited in characters in these responses I  listed what was in the working and nonworking HOT KEY machines and attached it as a doc file to this response.

You could be on to the problem as some of these differences look suspect.  If you happen to know the significance of each line it would be nice to narrow it down to exactly what the problem is before I just go making changes.

Thanks,

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]OK for the record.

I copied the AUTOEXEC.BAT and CONFIG.SYS files from the working HOT KEY machine to the non working one , rebooted and tried the program and same symptom.

So it looks like that might not be it.  When I run my TERMINAL.EXE program I get a screen that looks like the attachment,  I need to choose option 2 which loads a communications program from the computer to the controller processor board via the RS232 port.  I am suposed to hit "F2" key and then I should get a command line response asking me to enter 0=LOAD or 1=CLOAD which is just asking if I want to clear out the old program first, then it should ask the name of the program I want to load,  Anyway the screen just goes blank when I hit "F2" and I have toi use CTRL BREAK to get back to a DOS prompt,

[year+ old attachment deleted by admin]I admit i'm slightly baffled by this one...
Have you by chance replaced older keyboards with newer USB ones on the problem PC's ? ?
If so check in the BIOS and make sure USB legacy support mode is enabled...

This is just a stab in the dark here...What are the specs of the newer machine you are trying to run this program on?
What version of DOS are you using on the old & new machines?

If DOS isn't setup the same on all machines, config & autoexec will not function properly.

AUTOEXEC.BAT  (Non Working Hot Key System)

C:\DOS\SMARTDRV.EXE  /X
ECHO OFF
PROMPT $p$g
Path C:\DOS
SET TEMP=C:\DOS
MOUSE


AUTOEXEC.BAT  (Working Hot Key System)

ECHO OFF
PROMPT $p$g
VERIFY ON
PATH C:\DOS;C:\PCTOOLS
SETTEMP=C:\TEMP

LH /L:0;1,45456 /S C:\DOS\SMARTDRV.EXE /X
LH /L: 1.6384 C:\DOS\DOSKEY
CD NEWUTP
CLS

CONFIG.SYS (Non Working Hot KEY Syatem)

DEVICE=C:\DOS\SETVER.EXE
DEVICE=C:DOS\HIMEM.SYS
DOS=HIGH
FILES=30

CONFIG.SYS ( Working Hot KEY Syatem)

DEVICE=C:DOS\HIMEM.SYS
DEVICE=C:DOS\EMM386.EXE NOEMS
BUFFERS=15,0
FILES=30
DOS=UMB
LASTDRIVE=E
FCBS=4,0
DOS=HIGH
DEVICEHIGH /L:1,2592 =C:\DOS\BURNOUT\BURNDCV.SYS 5460 F6 H+ V+


The DOS version is 6.22 and is the same on both AT machines (on one AT machine the hot keys work and on the other they do not)

I originally stumbled upon this problem when I had one of my working AT machines cloned to a newer computer with a PS2 keyboard connection.  The drive was cloned so all the software and settings should in theory be the same?  I thought that maybe it was something to do with the PS2 style keyboard and I have never been able to get a machine with a PS2 style keyboard to work with the hot keys.  (I have 2 or 3 clones like this).  So I got an adaptor that would let me use the old AT style keyboard with the machine that has the PS2 keyboard port.  This didn't fix anything.  Also going the other if I took a PS2 keyboard and used an adaptor to plug it into an AT machine that had hot keys working it worked so it wasn't the keyboard type.

So all I know for sure at this point is that I have a couple old AT machines with AT keyboards that can use the hot keys.  I have one AT machine with an AT keyboard which won't function with hot keys.  And I've never been able to get a newer clone using a PS2 keyboard to work with the hot keys.  I've copied the AUTOEXEC and CONFIG files from a working AT to the nonworking AT and that didn't fix things.  It seems like when I hit F2 the program response can't be displayed?



the "AT Style" keyboard with the LARGER connector is quite literally electrically the same as the Mini-DIN connector used for PS/2, so it can't be that. However, I believe there are differences with some later systems and how they handle the A20 line, which is usually dealt with by the keyboard controller on the motherboard.

I was unable to find any REFERENCES to Intertest BASIC or PDOS BASIC. If they are old enough however they may very well have been designed for use on XT or earlier machines, for which the keyboard interfacing was somewhat different, though I don't see how those differences would manifest themselves in this fashion.

The AT keyboard has two sets of scancodes. Known as Set 3 and Set 2. Many references will tell us that the scancode for F1 is 07h. In actuality, 07h is the set 3 scancode for the leftmost function key in the row of function keys immediately above the numbers. If the function keys are on the LEFT, as on the earlier 83-Key A keyboards, then F1 is in a different place and so returns a different scancode (05h). This MAY be the problem, if the program was designed for XT or early AT systems and isn't allowing the BIOS to translate the scancodes for it and instead reading them directly it could be misinterpreting the values. AT keyboards with the function keys on the top will return a scancode of 0x0f for F2; but those with the function keys on the left side will return a scan code of 0x6f. Usually, these are translated by the keyboard controller, and the BIOS makes the appropriate adjustments as needed for application compatibility. But some applications that take shortcuts or try to directly read from the keyboard controller may misinterpret scancodes If they are designed against a single keyboard architecture.


Thanks for your help.

I tried one of my newer machines (mini DIN keyboard connector) cloned from the original DOS  ( Hot Keys working ) AT and when I entered f2 got the message:

"VAL string isn't a proper number"

and then it exited the Terminal program back into DOS.   It repeated this several times.  So I agree something is different that it doesn't recognize the scancode for that key.

Fortunately I have a friend who knows the programmer who back in 1990  wrote the TERMINAL and Intertest program which I am trying to load so maybe I can get a work around.

hey GUYS my friend hp parvillion has began to black screen after about 1 hour of use , it does not shut down the screen goes black and looks like every thing else is WORKING any ideas what to do to FIX this issueHave you tried RUNNING it in SAFEMODE or using an external monitor first? http://www.buzzle.com/articles/laptop-screen-goes-black-randomly.html

Hi!

I have the following PROBLEM:

After 3 years, the battery of my Dell Latitude E6510 given up the ghost and I've bought a new (not a replica but the original model purchased from http://www.accukorting.com/dell-latitude-e6510.html ).

The battery can be used easily and is also RECOGNIZED by the system.
Only problem: He can not be charged.

When you first insert the battery was at 33%. In network mode, it remains at 33%. However, it is shown: left 33% (network operation is not recharged).

Have already taken out the battery again and blown onto the contacts and everything wiped cloth with NEM (thought it might be a bit dusty). But nothing helps.

Can someone help me? Were so thankful for every tip. When the new battery is installed and also the adapter/charger is plugged into a WALL outlet what is the status icon down by the time indicating? How long have you left it in the computer charging for? Ultimately it is always possible that the battery you received may be defective. So retain your receipts for the purchase as it may be necessary to return it. truenorth
P.S. In case you have never done the process before here is a good link to describe what is involved.
http://www.laptop-battery.org/batterytips.html
I agree with truenorth
Also, It is not uncommon to install a replacement battery with characteristics that vary SOMEWHAT from the original.
Determining the charge any a cattery by voltage output requires will-calibrated sensors. Even a slight change inn the battery characteristics requires adjustment of the sensors. Hopefully this  issue will someday be resolved with standardization of rechargeable methods used in the industry.

Contact the vendor for information on how to DETERMINE the recharge of the battery.Leave it on a full charge with the PC not being used for at least 12 hours...if it fails then it's the power unit itself...not the battery.

I have a 5 y.o. Asus laptop, which still works really well. I do a lot of graphics and have just bought a EPSON R3000 printer to print my digital paintings. I also have an HP Laser for everyday. My prints from both printers are coming out with a yellowish tinge and after much messing around I think that my laptop screen color is wrong.  I have transferred my present painting onto my new HP NOTEPAD and it looks yellow there too. I cannot find the option to change the screen color anywhere. Being a laptop, there is no 'Menu' button obvious, and I can't find any options in the Control Panel. I am running Vista Home Premium. Thanks. If you have the correct driver and control panel installed for the video chipset, it should have color settings. Again, that depends on the model of the laptop and what video chipset it has, which you didn't provide. The laptop is an Asus Pro55 series.  I'm not sure WHETHER this is what you want, but I have found "Chip type: ATI Radeon Graphics Processor (0x95C4)".

I have since downloaded 'Calibrize' and calibrated the gamma. The blue seemed RIGHT out, and I have adjusted it, but I don't think it has MADE a heap of difference. Thanks.From what I found, it has an ATI Mobility Radeon HD3470.

Open the Catalyst Control Center, open the Advanced view.

Desktop Properties -> ColorI've found it, and will have a play. Thanks.

About a year ago i locked my SD memory card with a password  , But now I can't remember the password .. I searched a lot in Google for a solution , but I didn't get nothing ...
Can any one help me to unlock or recover my memory card Password in any Ways .....How can we be sure that it is your own memory card and not somebody elses?
I can't Submit the ownership Certificate  ... I just need to know how to unlock (MY) memory card ... OkSo you want us to publish here, on the public web, on a site indexed by Google, a guide that anyone can READ, to access passworded information? Do you really think that's gonna fly?

If you don't know about this query, Just LEAVE it .. I posted this query for the experts in the computer-hope .. I told that at the top , I didn't get any answer from any where.. So I came here and posted it and seeking helps from Experts and now I realized that You have no Enough ability to Solve query, So Just leave and find some other BUSINESS ...... Sorry, we can't help with this type of question. I'm locking the thread.

Hi,

    Just finished a new build.  COMPUTER for teleradiology.  Four monitor setup.  Used the following:

ASUS P8P67
Intel i5 Processor 3.1 GHz
Antec TruePower Quattro 1000
Crucial M4 SSD 128 Gb
8 Mb RAM
ASUS DVD Drive DRW-24B1ST
Two GEForce NVIDIA 9400GT graphics cards (not powered)
Logitech wired mouse and keyboard
Fresh INSTALL of Windows 7 HP

Have not yet tested any applications.  No problems connecting to internet through my LAN.  Router is a SONIC WALL TZ 200 - All wired connections.  No trouble setting up four monitor array, connecting printer, etc.  The trouble is I cannot seem to boot this rig by pressing power button once.  It takes minimum two and sometimes more tries.  SATA connected to  Marvell port (dark blue socket on mb).  Using AHCI controller.  I think necessary drivers are in PLACE.  Boot order is C drive, then DVD.  No other drives.  Any thoughts?

 This is my first truly solo build.

I downthrottled using AMD Overdrive, put mobo speed from 200 mhz to 100 mhz and cpu multiplier from 20x to 10x.
Then i heard static in my HEADPHONES and the screen froze so i rebooted it says NTLDR MISSING, CTRLALTDELETE TO RESTART

Usually one would put the win7 cd, but i don't have a dvd READER on this COMPUTER, though i have one on another computer.

Is my only choice burning win7 from another computer?
Double post......and the other is marked as 'solved' ........that is one reason we dont like double POSTS.  Topic Closed.

I have a ACER 7 Aspire 7741Z-5731 an Im tring to sync it with two cells.  I can see both of them but, I dont know where to check the contents of ether of them in WINDOWS.  It comes up with a yellow ! in devices for my phonehave you read the documentation for your phone and followed the instructions on how to sync it? You have also been around here long enough to know you should give more details. What models are the phones you are TRYING to sync?
I dont have the documation too the one.  The other doesnt REALLY mention anything about it.  I know the one is a straight talk but, other then thatHere we GO again....

Hello

According to an ONLINE scan I have just done on my iMedia S1800 PC tower, I have the FOLLOWING memory: DDR3 PC3-8500, DDR3 PC3-10600, DDR3 PC3-12800.

I ALSO have done a scan of a Dell Dimension 2400 that shows the following memory: DDR PC2700, DDR PC3200.

I was hoping to take 1Gb of RAM from the iMedia PC and use it in the Dell Dimension PC, but from the results above does it seem that the two PCs are incompatible?

Many thanks

High1DDR & DDR2 & DDR3 are not interchangeable.  They will not physically FIT into each OTHERS slots.
Hello Commando

Thanks for that, I didn't realise.

Cheers

High1

do laptop cpu fans get harmed if running for to long like the box ones?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-FtgzvDnu4
The 'dingbat' in the VIDEO had left his PC running all day........with the side panel off. Maybe he has a cat.

What is the point of this question?the questions could this happen in a laptop? just a yes or no
If you leave the case/cover open, then maybe. If you dont, then probably not. Quote from: computer 12 on May 19, 2012, 12:30:32 PM

just a yes or no

the fan forces air to the heatsink

Lappys...arnt much good.......

That is absurd. Do you have a source for that 'opinion' ?

I just plugged a WD external hard drive into my Windows Vista lap top and when I went to open the F drive that it was listed under, I GOT the following message:  Please insert a disk into Removable Drive F.  The small icon in the TASK Bar recognizes it as Mass Storage, but my computer does not.  I'd never plugged this external hard drive into this computer before.  It had always been plugged into my DESK top but now I need some of the information from it for my lap top.  How can I get my computer to recognize it as mass storage and not a dvd drive?   Thank you
Here is a solution from Microsoft.Please see if it is applicable to your problem (it is an article pertaining to external drives)
"For Windows Vista and Windows 7 users:
Click Start and type Device Manager in the Search box
Click Device Manager in the Control Panel list
Locate the Disk drives item in the list and click the small arrow to the right to expand the list of drives
If a disk drive is disabled you will see an icon with an arrow pointing down over the icon of the disk drive
If you see an icon with an arrow pointing down over the icon of the disk drive, double-click the icon and click the Enable Device button
Click Next on the Enabling a device dialog box, click Next, and then click Finish
Click Close and then close the Device Manager window

Note: If you don't see your disk drive in the listed drives, the drive may not have been detected by Windows.

Note: If you RECEIVE an error message when Enabling the disk drive, you may have a defective disk drive."
 truenorth

P.S. Here is a link that goes into great length on dealing with issues of unrecognized external drives (of all kinds with the common factor being they are ALL USB connected).See if the above doesn't solve the issue. There are many possible reasons why the problem you are having can occur.
http://www.techspot.com/community/topics/troubleshoot-windows-wont-recognize-usb-hard-drive-fix-unassigned-drive-letter.122125/You can't. Not today.

Put it  back where is was. Make it a shared folder. Share the whole drive. Next find it on your local network and transfer files over the network.

Yes, eventually your will find what the problem is. But the about of time you will spend on that is not reasonable. Just make it a network drive at its original location. Copy the files you need.




Thank you, truenorth, for your referral to the techspot.com hyperlink.  I tried one of their easy solutions which was to just change the USB cord and that worked just fine. glad it worked out,truenorth

My desktop PC is custom built. mother board Asrock A770DE+. AMD Sempron 140 processor- 4096MB DDR2-SDRAM- ATI Radeon HD 5800 Series video card-Psu is Rosewill 80 plus green series 630 watts.- OS is Windows 7 ultimate. I have installed Speed Fan to monitor voltage and temperatures. PC's hardware monitor shows cpu -125c/257F. Speed fan shows system 126c. CPU 33c-HD31c I installed PC wizard to check readings. This program shows -core1 33.5c - GPU 31c - HD 29c. I installed CPUID Monitor to check information.-CPU 34c- GPU 33c- HD 30c. I am also receiving odd voltage readings. I paniced and installed a new power supply -same make same wattage. I am still getting odd voltage readings.Voltage readins would not be capable of starting PC if they were actual. All fan readings seem to be fine. CPU fan speed 4687 rpm- chassis fan speed 2033 rpm.- PSU fan speed 1640 rpm. I have removed cpu fan and installed a higher performing fan. Nothing feels hot to the touch,I receive these readings 15 seconds after a cold start up. Sorry for the length. Please Help.DLoad and install Speccy and compare the Temp readings...

Somethings wrong...I downloaded Speccy (nice program) it shows cpu temp. 37c-, the gpu 31c,-the HD 32c. Voltages on MB,-Mem. controler-o.808--the +3.3v= 2.816v--the +5v=0.528v --vin5+1.808v,--vin6=1.320v. Thanks for your quick responce.Thermal problems would always show signs of slow or shutting down. HWMonitor software might be corrupted and NEEDS to be reinstalled. You can install 2 to 3 hardware temperature softwares for cross reference.  SIW, Speedfan, Speccy(installed) and HWMonitor are all reliable for these purposes.   I have now, 4 other programs on this PC besides the program in set-up (hardware Monitor) to check voltages and temperature. all of the programs are within 1 or 2 degrees of each other. All of the fan speeds are pretty much equal. I'm trying to figure out why the computers hardware monitor is showing the CPU temp. = -125c/257f  M/B temp.= 126c/258f. and some strange voltages. I have not had any problems with PC being slow or shutting down.  I just have a habit of checking system frequently.,which is why I caught this issue. I RESET CMOS to maybe get rid of these funny readings, to no avail.The PC shows these Imposable readings at start up. Quote

I'm trying to figure out why the computers hardware monitor is showing the CPU temp. = -125c/257f  M/B temp.= 126c/258f. and some strange voltages

Hello,

Since I bought my new computerscreen, an AOC F22, I started having problems.
When the computer is on for 1 hour, and msn / opera / mozilla / ect are active, the screen will FLASH off for 3 seconds, and continue with it until I shut down the program.

I reinstalled WINDOWS 7 already, reinstalled all the drivers but the problem is still there.

Here is some information about my computer:
Manufacturer:    
System manufacturer
Processor:    
AMD Athlon(tm) II X4 630 Processor (4 CPUs), ~2.8GHz
Memory:    
4096MB RAM
Hard Drive:    
1 TB
Video Card:    
ATI Radeon HD 5700 Series
Monitor:    
AOC F22
 Operating System:    
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit (6.1, Build 7600) (7600.win7_gdr.100226-1909)
Motherboard:    
ASUS M2N68-AMSE2

resolution is 1920 x 1080.

EmileHow new is it? (How long ago did you buy it?) Did you buy it new from a RETAILER? I had an AOC 2434 which failed after 8 months. I returned it under the warranty and got a refund. I bought a Hanns-G HH-241HPB with the money. I guess you chose it because of the stand?


 
Quote from: Salmon Trout on May 20, 2012, 08:25:53 AM

How new is it? (How long ago did you buy it?) Did you buy it new from a retailer? I had an AOC 2434 which failed after 8 months. I returned it under the warranty and got a refund. I bought a Hanns-G HH-241HPB with the money. I guess you chose it because of the stand?

Quote from: EmileM on May 20, 2012, 08:31:38 AM

I've bought it because they said it had a good quality.

Guys, I can't seem to find the find the OPTION to OPEN up the CPU module compartment to CLEAN up my fan. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.



http://tim.id.au/laptops/acer/aspire%204740%204740g.pdf
Download the service guide.
No easy WAY to GET at it without disassembling most of the computer.

hi 
 
i bought new computer with this monitor ....but as soon as i put EVERYTHING together and is switched on ...there is no sound.
 
its weird there is no audio lead on the monitor which comes with normal monitors which is the thin lead with the green ends which stickes to backof monitor and PC unit
unless im blind.  so i dint expect any sound if thi slead wasnt connected.
 
Has this built in speakers ? if so ... i cant get the sound
 
please help not sure what to do . and as you have judjed by the email i am a complete computer novice 
 
Many Thanks in advanceJust plug some speakers into the back of the pc this will be labeled headphones and USUALLY green in COLOR, if you still hear nothing try installing the sound drivers.this is a fairly new monitor shoudl it not come with built in speakers..... this is unusual ?
If this is the audio lead from the monitor and it doesn't work then test the audio with some speakers to rule out the monitor. But first check if you have installed sound card drivers.. Press Start, Control Panel, Device manager.. Under device manager look under Sound Game Controller and tell use what it says? is there any yellow SIGNS?"i bought new computer with this monitor " refer to the manual that came with the monitor --or look it up online and determine IF it does have integrated speakers. truenorth
PSST.Wana buy a new monitor that has integrated speakers---well this ain't it. Buy some speakers.

Hello!
Trying to overcome my ignorance about computers I came across a web page that said that computers with integrated graphics processors (IGP) account for almost 90% of PC shipments.
 
Reading this made me wonder something.
I have searched the web for an answer but I'm not sure I have been able to find it. 
 
Could you please tell me who is responsible of building the images that will be displayed in the remaining almost 10% PCs when video cards are not connected to the motherboard by means of an expansion slot ?

Thank you for your time It's not about wether a MBoard has an IGP or not...
Any graphics at all out there are going to be displayed whether its via a card or onboard graphics chip...

Not sure i even understand your question...If the motherboard is to work without a video display, the BIOS has been set to run without a common video display. Instead the computer would have some other type of output device.

Many early desktop computers had output to a serial port that would connect to a 'dumb' terminal. I did have  computers like that for a few years. My first video dis[play I got I have to write the driver myself.

In some present day servers the use of a video display device is not required. The output fan be directed to either the local network or to a serial com port.

To my knowledge, no personal computers today use only a serial port to display output. However, Windows has some provision for sending  main output ton a serial port. I have never used that feature of Windows. So it must be possible.

EDIT: Yes, it is possible. A desktop motherboard with no video installed can run the Ubuntu server perfectly well. But a card has to be installed for the installation and setup. Later it can be removed and save a bit of power. For more info, try one of the Ubuntu forums. Or the chat room.
An integrated graphics processor is an on-board graphics chip. If 90% of PC shipments are computers that have on-board graphics chips, then we can assume the other 10% do not have on-board graphics chips, which means that their graphics capabilities are provided by a dedicated graphics card.
Thank you BC_Programmer, I agree with what you say
What I want to know is
What is the graphic capability of the other 10% in case they don't have video cards in their expansion slots?
Is it zero?
Or do CPUs (on their own) provide some sort of graphic capabilities?
I was about to post the following to patio & Geek-9pm when I discovered your post.

Thank you for your replies patio & Geek-9pm .
After reading them I realized both of you hadn't understood my question and (while I was looking for another way to convey my ideas I began) to think it could be me who didn't understand things correctly.

When I wrote
Quote from: Vigaenson on May 22, 2012, 05:09:54 PM

Could you please tell me who is responsible of building the images that will be displayed in the remaining almost 10% PCs when video cards are not connected to the motherboard by means of an expansion slot ?

a) Why do you think the video card has to be installed for the installation and setup?

b)Do you think that after removing it the system looses all its graphic capabilities or do you think that some of it remains?

Tech Support Guy System Info Utility version 1.0.0.2
OS Version: Microsoft® Windows Vista™ Home Basic, Service Pack 2, 32 bit
Processor: Genuine Intel(R) CPU T2080 1.73GHz, x86 Family 6 Model 14 Stepping 12
Processor Count: 2
RAM: 1917 Mb
Graphics Card: ATI RADEON XPRESS 200M Series, 4 Mb
Hard Drives: C: Total - 112971 MB, Free - 57687 MB;
Motherboard: TOSHIBA, IAYAA
Antivirus: McAfee Anti-Virus and Anti-Spyware, Updated and Enabled

Hi:

My CMOS battery is DEAD and I've yet to open and REPLACE. I keep the time set correctly manually. Would this cause the computer to operate as if in slow motion?

I've run several CPU speed checks and all report over double the 1.73 GHz, sometimes as high as 2.8 GHz.

Any and all advice or COMMENTS will be appreciated.

Thanks, RobertNo, but replace it.Thanks for writing. I've found instructions for doing so, now I have to work up the nerve!

Cheers, RobertIt's really no big deal. Takes five minutes. Quote from: Allan on May 23, 2012, 04:06:07 PM

It's really no big deal. Takes five minutes.

hello guys i need help from you.

i have ACER aspire 2920z with specification
intel Pentium dual core PROCESSOR t2390 (1.86 Ghz, 533 Mhz FSB, 1 mb L2 cache)
358 mb mobile intel graphic media accelerator x3100
2 gb ddr2 160 gb hdd
Bluetooth 2.0 +edr 802.11b/g wan
windows vista genuine 

here is my problem
before i turn on 2 to 3 times looping to STARTUP menu
1. safemode
2. safemode networking
3. safemode dos
4. normal windows

then when continue to windows it freezing there either 10 MINUTES or longer than that

i tried to repair how many times to reformat the drive c
i tried change operating system to win 7 but no change
i also tried win xp not changing still freezing
i tried to disable all the service and startup  in system configuration no change
i tried change dump memory to complete dump memory
i tried disable the microsof ACPI complaint control  method baterry
some time when i go to safemode freezing there SOMETIMES ok

waahhh its very hard to fix this problem maybe hardware problem

guyss i need your suggestion as soon as possible

thank you very much in advance waiting for your respond

are video card and graphic card sameYes they are the same
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Graphics_processing_unit 
The GPU (Graphics PROCESSING Pnit) on the graphics card can ALSO be called a Video/Visual Processing UNIT.

hello i got a question is CORE the same as CPU? because i got a temp sensor and says cpu RUNS at 46 and core 57 and their never the same but the core always runs at higher temp
What processor do you have? What temperature software are you using? Each cpu has at LEAST one core inside, and some have two temp sensors- one inside the core and on the cpu casing, so maybe this explains what you are seeing.

my cpu is AMD althon 64 2800+ only one core software xensors(UBUNTU)

I am not sure of the MODEL because this is a question from someone else. However, I do know that it is a Compaq Presario Laptop and will get the full model of it later. In the meantime I'm hoping someone might be able to help with this problem. We are trying to factory reset this Laptop that is about 3-4 years OLD and it seems to be tacking forever to reset, it was stuck at 30% for about a day and not it's only on 43% after 2 and a half days. When I read about how to reset it, it said that it would tack about 7 hours to complete. The thing is I don't WANT to keep leaving it on for this amount of time especially over night plugged into the mains in case it catches fire, but I cannot unplug it because it tells me to plug it back in and I am lost what to do with it. Could it be taking this long to Factory Reset? Also, if i turn it off could I just stick a windows disc and use the serial key on the back of the LapTop? I will give more info on the model a bit later. Thankyou!!You could in fact use a CD to re-install it as long as the versions of the OS match exactly...
You would however have to visit the Compaq site and DLoad and install all neccessary drivers.

However i suspect you have HDD issues if it's taking that long to complete. Quote from: patio on May 12, 2012, 09:10:48 AM

You could in fact use a CD to re-install it as long as the versions of the OS match exactly...
You would however have to visit the Compaq site and DLoad and install all neccessary drivers.

However i suspect you have HDD issues if it's taking that long to complete.

Based on your comments, I can't be sure whether you have a failed HD but it seems so.  If so, then, of course, you would need to replace it to get the computer working again.  If you want to proceed in that direction, I suggest you also contact HP to order a recovery disc for that computer.  Discs can be ordered for a fairly small fee.

Hi, I want to upgrade my computer. I have a budget of 500.00 , I play on line games and want a good CPU motherboard combo any ideas? thanks.Perhaps you mean on-line games over the In INTERNET. What you already have is a good s it gets of Internet gaming at this point in time.

Let me explain. Suppose you and your friends have a LAN party where you meet together in one room and tie you PCs together with a gigabit Ethernet router. In that case, you would have an slight edge over your friends if your computer was a lot faster.

At the present time, the internet seldom gives 6 megabit SPEED to residential users.  I don't know what the technical term for this is other than to say it is a "bottleneck." ADDITIONALLY, there is a thing called "latency", which can not be improved by a faster PC.

Let me repeat. If you have a gigabit network, you have a slight advantage with a PC that is a lot faster than then others. It is like drag racing. Lot more POWER, slight advantage.

I believe I am in the right place, at LEAST I hope so.  My harddrive died so I moved the jumper on my slave drive to make it a master drive.  I followed the directions on the manufacturer's site.  Now what do I do?  I've tried to turn it on with the WinXP installation CD in the cd drive but I just get failure messages.  I haven't worked on a computer in over 10 years so I just don't remember what I have to do.  Is anyone able to give me some direction please?  I would really appreciate it.  Thanks so much.  This is a Dell DIMENSION 4300 and is probably 10 years old.  I don't remember.  I use a laptop for the most part.  I just wanted to fix the desktop for the grandkids to play games on.  You had two drives in the desktop?
You have to remove the drive that failed. The Master/Slave thing works for drives that are FUNCTIONAL. If a drive fails, its behavior is not predictable. You have to fully remove the drive, at least electrically. No cables connected to the bad drive.

The BIOS would recognize the second drive and let it be the boot drive. But you must set priority to LOOK for the CD first. When you let the CD boot you should see a message...
Press any key to boot CD...

You have to hit a key withing a few seconds.

You may need the product key at had, in some cases.
Full install may take over an hour. You will be prompted for some information at more the one point. So you can not just walk away. Thank you Geek.  I did remove the old hard drive and changed the jumper on the slave to make it master.  I put it in the slot where the master was and connected those cables to it.  When I boot up the pc I get failure messages and it keeps rebooting.  I'm not SURE why it is doing that.  Any ideas?  This is what it was doing when I thought that the master harddrive was fried.  Maybe it is the motherboard instead? Quote

When I boot up the pc I get failure messages and it keeps rebooting.  I'm not sure why it is doing that.

Hi!    My Toshiba hd had bad sectors and I had to replace it.     In hind site I should have done this a while ago!    My questions are:  1.)  The guy that replaced it said he backed up everything to my external hd.    I told him I had two files of pictures that were not in my pictures but only on my desktop.   I can't find them.    If they were not backed up, could the guy possibly recover them from my old hard DRIVE?  (He still has it.)   2.)   Can I somehow GET my Outlook emails and the files I had back from my old hd?   3.)  I want to make Google my homepage and can't seem to do it.    I have Windows 7.    Thanks for any help you can give me.    Those things may be possible depending on how damaged the old hard drive is. You should be asking the guy who has your old hard drive. Why hasn't he given it back to you? (It is your property)

What web browser are you using? if it is Internet Explorer 9, open the page you want to be your home page then do Tools, Internet Options, General tab, Home Page, click Use current button, click OK


I using Google Chrome. 

I called the guy that fixed my computer today and am HOPEFULLY going to see him tomorrow.    I am just freaking out about those pictures that were in files on my desktop.    I needed to empty the CARD quickly and just put them there and my hd was in such a bad state that doing just about ANYTHING other than FB was so slow that I decided to just leave them there.     Would you think that the pictures could be on the old hd?   (Not that it matters but they are my son's deployment pictures so I really want to have them.)    Thanks for your help.    Quote from: Julie S. on May 29, 2012, 04:32:38 PM

Would you think that the pictures could be on the old hd?

This is the motherboard ive been looking at but IM not sure if its a GOOD one or if i could get a better one for the money.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131767
I'm also using a PHENOM II quad core processor with this graphics card - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161379
Please leave feedback
Asus is a good make of motherboard if that's what you mean. Double post though because you ALREADY MENTION this in your other thread.Here's a Gigabyte motherboard which appears to have more USB ports that that Asus one you posted and is 5 bucks cheaper 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128521

Hello!
I've got a pair of IBM THINKCENTRE M52 8114's that have IDENTICAL issues..well..sort of.

A while back, my dh's computer had it's video card die. It was a Nvidia Geforce 9500. I had an identical card in my system, so I loaned him mine (he does more gaming than I do) and I took an archaic ATI Mach64 and popped it in my system.

Overall, it worked. I couldn't ACCESS Ubuntu and my resolution sucked, but I was able to do what I needed to do in Windows.

Now since then, we've gotten our hands on a Geforce 9800 as well as an ATI Radeon 7500.

He's running WinXP with SP3 and I'm running a dual boot system with WinXP sp3 and the latest version of Ubuntu.

Now, here's where it gets fun.

We decided today that we had the time to get my card back into my system and one of the new ones into his. First, let's cover what has happened with mine. The card wouldn't register as being there. Plugging my monitor cable into it resulted in a loss of signal to the monitor. It would work with the old ATI, but none of the others (his has the same problem).

I found an idea online about changing the BIOS settings to only accept the onboard video. I tried that with mine and managed to get back into Windows. I then continued to follow the advice and switched it back to PCI in the BIOS. Now, neither of the Gforce cards or the Radeon work. He's using the old Mach64, so I don't know if that would work on mine.

So as it stands now, with the Geforce 9500, I will see my initial start up screen and then it all goes black.

His is where mine was..the Mach64 works, but the others don't, even with drivers installed.

The only card that works is the Mach64.

Any ideas??

I'm in the market for a new computer, I've got it narrowed down to two choices.  I mainly need it for school and my budget is under $500, I'm pretty sure either of these can handle what is needed for school work.  However I'm not sure about the other stuff I'd like to do on it, mainly watching video's on youtube, and some live streams.  I also would like it to be able to handle some photo manipulation software, like Photoshop Elements 10.  Both of them are HP Pavilion laptops, #1 is the cheaper one I'd be able to buy it in person, I've actually used it in a store.  #2 is from the HP website and is about as expensive as I can get right now.

#1

Processor:  Intel® Pentium B940 Processor 2.0GHz 2MB L3 Cache
Memory:  4GB DDR3 SDRAM (1 DIMM)
Graphics:  Intel® HD Graphics 3000
Hard Drive:  500GB (5400 RPM)

#2

Processor:  2nd generation Intel(R) Core(TM) i3-2330M (2.2 GHz, 3MB L3 Cache)
Memory:  6GB DDR3 System Memory (2 Dimm)
Graphics: Intel(R) HD Graphics 3000
Hard Drive:  500GB 5400 rpm

Both computers come with Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit have the same screen and optical drives.  If both can do what I want, with computer #2 costing $80 more, is it worth $80 more?  As for computer #1, I can get it on the HP website as well, but upgrade the graphics to a 1GB Radeon(TM) HD 7450M Graphics for $75 more.  The would essentially make it cost as much as #2.  Would the Intel HD Graphics be all right for what I want?
Any Pentium or even Celeron will handle school work... the 4GB/6GB of RAM will come in handy when you open >100 tabs like I do in Chrome for research purposes; my Athlon II computer in my specs grinds to a halt and I have to remember to check my RAM usage every time in Task Manager...
The i3 is beefy enough to tinker around with some virtualization programs, like VirtualBox...

I notice you mention Photoshop; Photoshop supports GPU acceleration which will come in handy when you move to more advanced photo editing... many more mainstream media programs support GPU compute right now compared to a few years back, so it would be convenient if you had a graphics card to greatly accelerate workloads given to your processor. However: http://www.notebookcheck.net/AMD-Radeon-HD-7450M.57211.0.html it's only minimally better in 3D applications than the HD 3000, which already serves your purposes of "YouTube and Live Streams" (It plays 1080p without a hitch) and I can't really justify the additional cost of $75.

I would go for the AMD APUs, which will provide far better graphics and comparable CPUs at far lower cost:
http://shop.amd.com/us/All/Detail/Notebook/LX.RNT02.076?SearchFacets=category%3ANotebook 
That's a quad core A6 for merely $349.99, 4 GB RAM, 15.6'' screen. The HD 6520G in the APU will handily beat the HD 3000 at almost all graphics intensive tasks.
http://shop.amd.com/us/All/Search?Page=5&NamedQuery=notebooksys&SearchFacets=category%3ANotebook all under $450. Take your pick.
I wouldn't go any lower than an A6: the A6 has its lead in multitasking, but in single threaded applications the i3 holds its lead.
http://shop.amd.com/us/All/Detail/Notebook/12992AU?SearchFacets=category%3ANotebook
$449 for the quad-core A8 and a discrete HD 6620G! How will your paltry Intel Pentium B940 system that you quoted above match up in terms of price/performance?
http://www.notebookcheck.net/Intel-Core-i3-2330M-Notebook-Processor.52200.0.html 
http://www.notebookcheck.net/AMD-A-Series-A6-3420M-Notebook-Processor.61302.0.html
I doubt you'd even notice a difference between them except in benchmarks.Transfusion, What a thorough and well stated response to the O/P.Good on you.truenorthcheck this one
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Samsung+-+17.3%26%2334%3B+Series+3+Laptop+-+4GB+Memory+-+500GB+Hard+Drive+-+High-Gloss+Silver/4707155.p?id=1218512739781&skuId=4707155
$449Transfusion did a great job.  Sorry it has taken me a while to respond.  The information has been very helpful.  I've gone away from the HPs now I've found two more computers that I'd like an opinion on.

#1
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834215187

That's for $480, and from the reviews it looks like it can run some games on it which is a plus.

#2
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834215258

That's $550, a little over my budget but I could do that if it is worth it.

Is #2 really worth $70 more, all I can notice is a .1GHz difference in the processors.  As for over clocking, is it safe to do?No, the .1 GHz isn't worth $70. You can regain that .1 GHz through overclocking, which won't pose any harm to your system because, well, the $550 machine has an identical body and identical cooling compared to the $449 one. Do note that there is: TurboCORE Technology up to 2.4/2.5GHz which will remove the processor throttle when it's crunching heavy workloads.
The main drawbacks of the systems you picked are the 5400 RPM drive and the 1366x768 screen. Nowadays people are moving to 1080p on 15.6'' screens, and my eyes admittedly feel more comfortable with crisp, rounded outlines (on non HD screens you can see individual pixels, which makes edges jagged), plus there's more space on the screen for you to multitask with.
The 5400RPM drive was probably chosen by the manufacturer because it would consume less power than a 7200RPM one.
http://www.overclockers.com/ps3-hard-drive-roundup-5400-3-scorpio-black-x25-m-g2/ 
We're talking about ~5-15 SECOND difference in game loading times here... In normal productivity you probably won't notice a difference, though.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hu0dTDaJdz8
http://slappablog.com/2011/12/08/laptop-llano-sabine-overclocking-guide-a4-3300m-a6-3400m-a8-3500m/
A place to get you started with Llano overclocking. I thought so, it didn't seem like it's be worth it.  I can live with the hard drive and if I really need to down the road I can replace it.    Same with the screen, I'd like the 1080p but I do have displays at home I can use and which I intend to use anyways.  I'd get a desktop but I need the mobility at this point.  Once again thanks for the information it's been a lot of help.Your budget was the same as mine.  You can get one of these:
http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/pscmisc/vac/us/product_pdfs/HP_ProBook_4430s_4530s_Notebook_PC_Datasheet.pdf

I am setting up an IP camera but I have posted a LINK to the FOLLOWING PROBLEM I am having. The question I NEED answering is which out of these ip address does the ip camera use?

http://forums.speedguide.net/showthread.php?277741-Why-is-my-IP-address-different-from-the-one-set-in-modem

I was given an esystems e725 laptop with WINDOWS 7. 
At startup a continued beeping sound occurs, after repedly HITTING F2 and Enter, the machine finally boots to WIN7.  All works fine until restarting.
On the advise of esystems, i reformated the hard DRIVE, but to no avail.  the warranty period has expired so this was the only advice they would give for free.

Can anyone advise as to how to cure this problem?

THANKS,
BobPlease explain the pattern of the beep. Is it a repeated fast beep, a long beep followed by short beeps, three short beeps, or something?

Knowing how it is beeping will likely tell what the problem is.Who said that?
Quote

On the advise of esystems, i reformated the hard drive, but to no avail.

I don't believe it

I was given an esystems e725 laptop with windows 7...

Any suggestions?  I've got an older system but can't spring for a new one just now.  My CAMCORDER can shoot full HD video, but it's very choppy when viewed on my PC.  I'm looking for a (fairly) inexpensive graphics card that will allow me to play and edit full HD video.  There are so many to choose from though that I don't know where to start...You must have already asked this question  elsewhere or did d Google.
If you are looking just under $300 there are some good ones. But does your budget tallow that?

What do you mean by HD? You mean it a reproduce HD?
Or do you mean the card itself has hardware that integrate into video editing software? If so,m what software does that?

From  eHow:
Quote

Because high definition video is so popular, video editing programs have adapted to accommodate it. If you have footage from an HD camera that you want to edit on your computer, you should have no trouble importing it in the same way you import your non-HD footage.
Read more: How to Edit HD Video | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_8323636_edit-hd-video.html#ixzz1w1Mm7W60

AMD Athlon 64 X2 CPU
Gigabyte M57SLI mobo
Nvidia 8400 GS
3 GB RAM
160 GB INTERNAL HD
500 GB external HD
Dual DVD RW drives
Pinnacle PCTV 800i TV card
LG 22 inch widescreen monitor

I recently tried to install a new graphics card to my computer (EAH5450 silent) and it didn't go so well. At first everything was fine then I started to play DDO and my whole system shut down, powered back up but the same thing. At first I thought it was an overheating issue because that model of graphics card doesn't have a fan and at the TIME I only had two fans in my system. After installing another fan the issue consisted. I gave up and reinstalled my old card a Radeon x600 series. My new theory on why it didn't work is my PSU isn't giving off enough power its a 550watt(I don't know what BRAND it doesn't say on the unit's sticker). Does that seem like the solution if so can anyone SUGGEST a PSU that will work?       Thanks,
ChrisThe Asus EAH5450 is said by Asus to need a 400 Watt minimum poser supply, so in theory your 550 Watt unit ought to be OK, except that we don't know whether it is a 'no-NAME' cheapo PSU with an optimistic or just plain false wattage rating or a good SOLID quality PSU. The fact that you cannot find a maker's name kind of suggests the former. A lot of cheap PSUs get stressed when asked to deliver power near their maximum claimed rating. Of course the card might be faulty and need to be returned. 
Right that's what I figured with my PSU. What are some quality PSU brands? If all goes well my plan is to buy a new PSU try it out and if it is the card use return it either way I figure upgrading my PSU is a good choice in the long run. You could borrow a known good 500 or 600W PSU to test 1st... Quote from: chrisofseattle on May 26, 2012, 10:24:59 AM

Right that's what I figured with my PSU. What are some quality CPU brands? If all goes well my plan is to buy a new PSU try it out and if it is the card use return it either way I figure upgrading my PSU is a good choice i the long run.

I have a desktop ASUS running Windows 7 Pro and I fortunately download all of my important files to a WD external HD.  A few weeks back my computer crashed and I had to use the System IMAGE Disks to get it up and running again. (Thank you Computer Commando!)  ANYWAY,
I plugged in my external HD and the computer now wants to reformat the external HD, and none of my files are showing up.  They do show up on my laptop running VISTA, but not on the desktop computer.  How can I get the Windows 7 to recognize that there are files on the external HD and that I definitely do not want to reformat it?  Thank youGood question. I have had things like that happen and NEVER found a real clear absolute answer. I think it has something to do with what kind of adapter you have for the external drive. Or the quality of the cable.
You can:
  Tray another USB cable.
  Try another USB adapter.

If that fails, you can link the two computer via Ethernet and transfer files. Not as fast, but it is very reliable.

BTW: Newer laptop computers have an external SATA port . Look for it when you are in the market for a new laptop.
Thank you for your input.  I rummaged around and found another shorter cable to use that was labeled as 2.0, plugged it in and the computer recognized the external HD and all of its files.  I'd had a cable problem before, CHANGED cable,s and everything worked fine, but since I had to do the System Image Recovery, it didn't want to recognize the ext. HD with that same cable.  Go figure?  Thanks again.

Hello EVERYONE! I am back with another weird issue.

Specs
MSI 870A-G54 motherboard
AMD Phenom II quad core processor
AMD Radeon HD 7700 series video card
16GB RAM
Dual-display monitors
Dual boot - Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit and Ubuntu 10.04


The Issue
Whenever my computer loses power, the BIOS settings reset. I replaced the battery on the motherboard twice (both right out of the package batteries) but the issue persists. If my computer stays plugged in, it is fine. But recently they are replacing the power lines in my neighborhood and it is causing me to lose power 3-4 times a day. I inspected the battery-holder (not sure of the correct term) but it is not bent out of place or corroded.

This would not be an issue except I found before that a few of the settings (including the AMD Cool N Quiet setting, set to ON by DEFAULT) causes my system to lock up and crash. Is there a way to change the default settings? Any ideas on what to do/look for? Thanks for any help.Were both batteries bought from the same vendor ? ?One I bought from Wal-Mart the other from a CompUSA. I have an old watch which uses the same type of battery (go figure haha) and all three (the old and the two new) seemed to work fine in the watch. Tested for 24 hours. Replace the Power supply. Most CMOS settings are copied to RAM while power is on, and the CMOS RAM is switched to the power supply. If the power supply doesn't provide enough power, the CMOS settings dribble away. But you don't see that problem until the next cold boot. Quote from: Mayuukosan on May 28, 2012, 04:43:54 PM

One I bought from Wal-Mart the other from a CompUSA. I have an old watch which uses the same type of battery (go figure haha) and all three (the old and the two new) seemed to work fine in the watch. Tested for 24 hours.

Hi, i recently bought a new computer and decided to give my parents my old one. Before doing so, i took the side off and blew out all of the dust. I also took out my video capture card since they wouldnt need it. Well, after all of that i hook it up for them and it wont come on. I check out the back of the PC, and the power supply light is blinking. After some unplugging and plugging in of the power cables from the power supply, i notice the light starts blinking(and clicking) when i plug in the motherboard.

I figured maybe the heat sinc had came loose from the processor after READING some possibilities online and figured i could just but some thermal paste and redo it myself. After applying new thermal paste and getting everything set, i try the computer again and its still doing the same thing. Im frustrated at this point because before i cleaned it out, it worked great.

Since i was able to narrow it down to the power cable plugging into the motherboard, i figured i would mess with it a little. I noticed that as soon as i started to plug it in the light would blink but when i would pull it out and it stopped. Then the next time it would go further before it started to blink. After removing it and plugging it back in i was able to get it to plug in without the light blinking. The computer powers up, works as if everything is fine. I can even shutdown the computer and the start it up days later without issue.

Now for the problem. I was plugging some stuff in earlier and hit the button on my power stick and shut off the juice to my computer. After turning it back on, the power supply light started blinking again. I know i can get it to work again by messing with the cable plugging into the motherboard but i would really like not to have to do this.

I was wondering if what im doing(messing with the cable on the motherboard) could cause problems with the power supply or motherboard?. Also, anyone know whats causing this? Is it a bad power supply? motherboard? something else?

Im sorry for the length of the post, i just figured i would explain the entire situation to try and help with answering the question. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Welcome to the CH forums.

Yes, a kinda long post which describes the problem in detail but...  doesn't give us any details of the pc, the power supply model, the motherboard etc.. etc..   not even the color of the flashing light...

Please read this article...Compaq Presario SR1230NX - Athlon XP 3200+ 2.2 GHz

Processor
AMD Athlon XP 3200+ / 2.2 GHz

Mainboard
Chipset type: VIA UniChrome KM400A
Data bus speed: 400.0 MHz

Power Supply
Bestec Model: ATX-250-122
250w

The blinking light is GREEN.


more info on computer hereTry unplugging the computer, then while unplugged, hold the power button down for about 30 seconds.

Plug the computer back in, then try to boot again.Gave it a try and it didnt work. i asked my friend the other day what color the light was and he said green, but it kinda looks red to me. im slightly color blind and its hard for me to tell exactly what color it is. i dont know if the colors would make a difference.

thanks for the suggestion.The name of that PSU does not exactly instill confidence...
REPLACE it before you fry other expensive components.
I'd get at least a 450/500 Watt for future upgrades and don't buy the 20 dollar special.I have had a few Bes-tecs...only blew up when i PUSHED them about 100W over the limit, however in SAYING that...get another to try, from a friend or somewhat, temporarily, before splashing out on a good $80 PSUi was kinda hoping it was a cheap fix or something was set wrong. ill try to get another power supply to test out but is there any other possible solutions? i can still get my computer to boot up and everything is fine until the power is cut off.

thanks for the answers. im gonna try to research some more.It could possibly be a self-defense mechanism...ill have a look around.I found this:

Quote

In case there are other Hewlett Packard computer owners that are unable to turn on their computer and are experiencing a blinking green LED light on their power supply, you may not have to buy a new power supply.

There are situations where there is “leftover” power or an electric charge still in the power supply. You need to find a tool to discharge that power. Once it has been discharged, when you plug the power cable back into the computer the power supply will emit a solid green light and you will be able to power back on normally again.

I don’t know what the tool is to discharge the power supply - a technician did it for me. Alas, weeks later, after fussing with the insides of my computer some more I have managed to get it back in a state where the green power supply light is blinking again and I am unable to power up my computer. Wish I had one of these tools…

Lots of the help messages in response to people with this same issue are telling them to just buy a new power supply - that may not be necessary.

Was browsing the web and my 3 year old Samsung NC20 laptop just froze. Couldn't get any movement so turned off, waited a minute and turned BACK on. Now when pressing the start button there appears to be no boot up, the screen remains black, the only LED's lit up are the 'on' and the charging/charged LED's, the FAN whirs and gets hot but there is no other sign of life.

Have so far tried taking out and reinstalling the battery, memory module and HD but no change.

Would appreciate any assistance in resolving this issue. Quote from: prophet01 on May 28, 2012, 03:38:59 AM

...Have so far tried taking out and reinstalling the battery, memory module and HD but no change...

Maybe someone more knowledgeable than me could suggest a more in depth diagnostic procedure to try and pinpoint the cause of the problem.

Hey all I'm new, name is Ed. I am getting $500 rebate check and want to buy the Alienware of the tablet market, is it still the Transformer Prime??? I'm in USA and can get the 32GB model at Newegg or Amazon for $499.00 is it still the hotshot on the block. I'm talking total performance, for gaming and whatever else floats on by. I get this check each year and SPEND it totally for SOMETHING fun I want without a second thought.

 I'm thinking 32GB Prime and get the matching keyboard dock down the road a short distance. I currently own an Acer Iconia A500 that just updated to 4.0 ICS and has trouble displaying any current GO themes which I sorta like to play around with. I'm Disabled/Retired Drummer and this is for FUN with a capital "F".
 
Gray or Champagne color?? anybody see them yet that can comment??
 Thanks folks!! Sorry ED.
An Alienware tablet is not now in the top of the heap. But can you wait a bit? This year they should have something you will really like.

What OS do you want?
Apple
Microsoft   (The new Alienware tablet will be Windows
Android

For the same money you can get a very nice Apple tablet.
I'm trying not to get involved with itunes unless I have to- ipod touch in my case. The closed aspect of ios and itunes bugs me, I can get around Android fairly well so Android would be my choice. I have seen some Windows Tablets around the price range I'll be in but Windows on a Tablet just does not sound like a spiffy machine to me....LOL....am I wrong??

 I'm looking at the new Asus TF300 with the same SPECS pretty much as a prime but less expensive.......??Here is a link to a comparison price only on your stated device. It says that a price of $360.00 is the lowest. However on examining the 2 pages of offers the lowest i saw was $370.00.If you dig a little into the site you can get hundreds of client reviews on it as well.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=Transformer+Prime&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:unofficial&client=seamonkey-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=12129049663989539776&os=sellers&sa=X&ei=OwjFT9GFBpLuggek7ZDvDg&ved=0CIIBEP0IMAM#start=25
truenorthThank you...I wish I knew who some of the sellers were with the low prices. I never heard of any of those so I'll probably stick with Newegg or Amazon...any others good sellers out there  That is a new question. Now it is your turn to do some work. 
Google and find:
Best Online Retailers for Customer Satisfaction
Cosme back here and report what you find. If you do well I will click your 'thank you' button.


I got it now....Karma! OK I'm on the right track with Amazon, here is a link to an ARTICLE about: Best Online Retailers for Customer Satisfaction that our friend Geek-9pm pretty much laid in my lap, Thank you GeeK!!!, I also have Netflix whose rating went down 14% over the last year.

http://www.investorplace.com/2012/02/best-online-retailers-for-customer-satisfaction/ Quote from: eclein on May 29, 2012, 12:16:18 PM

Thank you...I wish I knew who some of the sellers were with the low prices. I never heard of any of those so I'll probably stick with Newegg or Amazon...any others good sellers out there 

So just recently my PC has started acting up in that when I turn it on, the screen is white.  If I press the reset button, it restarts again with the white screen.  Weird thing is if I let it sit for a while (15-20) minutes and hit the reset button again, it boots up fine.  My first guess was that it was the videocard, so I switched that out but am still having the same issue.  I'm pretty sure it's not the MONITOR, because during that INITIAL start-up time if I press the power button it immediately shuts off with no delay as though it's not booted up.  What else could be causing this issue?  My PC is about 5 years old and I haven't had to change any of the MAJOR components.Anyone...?Bumping is BAD. Don't do it. It could still be the monitor. Another cause of white screens can be the power supply, and the story you tell of a proper reboot after a delay suggests this. So check by substitution at least these things: video cable, monitor, power supply. if all these check out, consider a more general hardware failure e.g. motherboard or RAM.It turned out to be the monitor after all.  After replacing the video card, and switching out the HD from another computer I finally got around to checking another monitor (I put it off because my spare monitor was buried in a crate in the garage, argh...).  Anyway, problem solved!

Well I'm really CONFUSED. i had a hdd with windows xp. i then upgraded to windows 7 but when i upgraded, it shows that xp is still on but i cant use it. i then tried to format by reinstalling windows 7 but now i have windows 7 on both my hdds and yet i cannot format my old hdd.

how can i get rid of windows on my old hdd and why did it not erase the old windows 7 when i reinstalled?This is INTRIGUING! Lets see if i have this right. Your computer contains 2 harddrives. Both internals? Are they ACTUAL hardrdives or are they partitions on the same physical HDD? What did you use to INSTALL these versions of windows 7? How did you do it (step by step please)?truenorthIt didn't erase because you didn't format. You need to boot to the disc, you cannot try to format from within Windows.Bill ? ?

PC WONT POWER ON' FANS RUN' NO DISPLAY' PWR BUTTON WONT TURN PC OFF
 If you want assistance you need to provide a lot more information.

1) Tell us about your system
2) What is new or different since the last time everything WORKED properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?
3) Tell us EXACTLY what is GOING on IN DETAILFIRST OF ALL=THANK YOU FOR YOU'RE HELP. THE COMP. IS A IBM MOD.#AA21480=THE STICKER ON THE SIDE SAY'S=PRODUCT KEY P84VJ-GM77M-32BQ9-2T62W-43F2M=WHEN I PUSH THE PWR BUTTON THE BLUE PWR LITE COMES ON & BOTH FANS RUN BUT NO DISPLAY ON THE MONITER=THE YELLOW LITE ON THE MOITER IS ON & IF I PUSH THE PWR. BUTTON ON THE MONITER THE BLUE MONITER LITE COMES ON FOR A FEW SECONDS & GOES BACK TO YELLOW =I KNOW THE MONITER IS GOOD & THE CABLE IS TIGHT=THE STICKER ALSO SAY'S =WINDOWS 2000 PROFESSIONAL. I HOPE YOU CAN HELP ME' IF YOU NEED MORE INFO. I WILL TRY TO GET IT FOR YOU.      Quote from: Allan on May 19, 2012, 12:17:14 PM

If you want assistance you need to provide a lot more information.

1) Tell us about your system
2) What is new or different since the last time everything worked properly (ie, new hw, new sw, virus, error, etc)?
3) Tell us EXACTLY what is going on IN DETAIL

PC WONT POWER ON' FANS RUN' NO DISPLAY' PWR BUTTON WONT TURN PC OFF