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Hi,

As the title states, my new Ivy Bridge build has my HD 4870 STUCK in 4x instead of 16x.
<-- Specs are on the side there

I have tried rebuilding the system from ground up
Updating the BIOS of the motherboard
Have not tried updating the graphics card BIOS (Nor do I really want to do this)

The BIOS states it at 4x and has done so since day 1, so I am guessing it is a BIOS issue not a software issue?

Kurtis
Call me crazy, but try moving the Creative sound card to the other PCI express slot (ACCORDING to the diagram of that BOARD, there should be two x4 slots that that card will fit into).

Or try moving the video card to the other PCI express x16 slot.

I've also heard of this happening when the card isn't making really good contact (interference from dirt or dust). CHECK the CONTACTS on the card and the slots. Blow out the slots with some compressed air.Okay, with the X-Fi removed - no difference (I can't get the card into the second slot because it is covered by my cooler) Will try the card in the other slot this afternoon Though it is in the blue slot which is 16x and the black slot is 4x only. I cleaned the card contacts when I rebuilt it but not the slot. hmm

About five weeks ago, I noticed that my computer was heating up to a level far above its normal temperature. It was heating to upwards of 90 degrees according to CoreTemp. This was particularly noticeable when I was watching Netflix or opening multiple tabs. Likewise, whatever is labeled as Core 1 in the CoreTemp gadget was constantly working at nearly 100%. As a result, my computer was SLOWING down and FREEZING up. Now, it is barely useable. I ran CCleaner and SlimCleaner, ran a defrag, and an antivirus scan, to no avail. I also checked to SEE if the fan was working (it was) and purchased a little external cooling fan which sits under my laptop. It also came to my attention that SP1 will not install on my computer.  I have tried doing it automatically through the Windows Update program on my computer and manually by downloading it from Microsoft's website.  This didn't do much of anything either. Can anyone help me out? Thanks.

In short: my computer is heating up and slowing down for no apparent reason and I cannot install Service Pack 1.

System Specs: OS: Windows 7 Professional 32-bit Computer: Acer Extensa 5220 BIOS: Ver 1.00PARTTBL Processor: Intel Celeron CPU [email protected] Memory 1536 MB RAM: 641 Free, 896 Used Page file: 1501 used, 1851 available

Edit: Temperatures are Celsius. Also, my Tjmax is 100C.
Is this computer still under warranty?truenorthIm curious, what was happening five weeks ago? i.e. Installs? any damage from hitting or spills? Unfortunately, it is not under warranty.  Nothing physical happened to the computer five weeks ago.  I started noticing the slowed rate of my computer five weeks ago, and the only big thing I changed was to SWITCH from Chrome to Firefox around that time.  It certainly wasn't a very sudden change.

Last week I suddenly couldn't start up my laptop as usual after hibernating it for a day. Here are the specifics first of all:
IBM Thinkpad T40p
80GB HDD
1GB RAM
1GHZ Intel Pentium N Processor
WIn7 Ultimate
At first I attempted running a recovery (repair), it started well, but never ended. Tried starting up the laptop following the different F8 settings (last known best config, normal settings, debug). I even tried going into system restore via safe mode, but surprisingly there were no restore points to be found. The repair then worked once, and the PC booted up to the desktop level, then I heard a sound like "crr" and the screen froze up. Trying to re-start never worked, the IBM splashscreen never came until I tried changing the CMOS battery. After changing it, the splashscreen now starts, but hangs there for quite a while (20 secs), which is not normal. Then it tells me "checksum ERROR, change date and time". I press F1 to enter the setup (which it does), and whilst I am entering the time, the WHOLE thing simply shuts down. Tried beating it several times now, but it still shuts down. It even shuts down if I do nothing after the checksum announcement. Is the CMOS battery flat already? Or is it something else?
Grateful for any help.Have you always run Win7-Ultimate on that?  It doesn't seem like the hardware configuration would support it.
http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/detail.page?LegacyDocID=MIGR-46451
The replacement battery is probably bad, too.
#19 in the diagram
http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/product-and-parts/detail.page?&LegacyDocID=MIGR-46474
Disconnect the CMOS battery & MEASURE the voltage, should be 3.0VDC.
I've been running Win7 on it for almost a year now. However I do agree if you are trying to say that I should be using a newer laptop. I actually switched to Win7 because XP was giving me problems. Anyway, checked the battery, but the voltage is ok. I read somewhere else that heat accumulation can also cause this problem (I had BSOD a few times as well) so I decided to check the heat sink and fan ASSEMBLY. Turns out the thermal paste was kinda old, so I CLEANED it up and renewed it. It has not shut down again, and I have been able to successfully run the setup repair. Everything's back to normal. So the shutdown was some kind of overheating protection, I suppose.
I wasn't here long this time, but thanks very much anyway.

I would like to switch hard drives in a Dell Dimension 2100 and an HP Pavilion 752n.  The Dell is a weak computer with a Celeron 1.1 GHz processor, 384 MB of RAM, Windows XP SP2, and a 40 GB hard drive.  The HP has a Pentium 4 2.0 GHz processor, 512MB of normal RAM or 1 GB of RAM that I cannot tell if it is the right kind or not, Windows XP SP2 hacked to look like Vista, and a ten GB hard drive.  I want to upgrade the HP's hard drive, keep it's data on it, and at the same time keep the Dell a working computer with an operating system.  Also, in the end, the Dell's hard drive must be restored to empty except for the OS.  I have the product key for the HP but not the Dell.  Thanks!hansberry,
First of all, are you sure the two drives are the same type?
Why not borrow an external  HDD from a friend?
Or push your backup IMAGE to a CLOUD.
Top 10 Free Cloud Storage Services For You To Back Up And Sync Files

IMHO you are better off paying a few dollars for a good used laptop drive.
What do you mean by 'type'?  I cannot borrow any hard drives, I don't know what the cloud is, and I have no money.OK. Laptop drives are almost always 2.5 inch types. But older ones are IDE and newer ones are SATA. On eBay IDE is also called ATA pr PATA.



New laptop drives have the SATA connector.


Forget the Cloud.

Use a free program to backup the dell system to a DVD. Like this:
Macrium Reflect Free

You need one CD and maybe two DVDs to clone your Dell. You need to save at least the drivers. Preferable  to cone the whole system.Allright.  I downloaded the program and ran it.  Once in it, I clicked the Create Disk Image button.  I also installed a DVD/CD drive and told it to copy the Dell's hard drive to it.  Will this actually work?  My PLAN is to copy the Dell's hard drive to CDs (I have very few DVDs), format or delete it, copy the HP's hard drive to the Dell's, switch slave\master so that I am running on the Dell's, format or delete the HP's hard drive, and copy the files on the CDs to the HP's hard drive. Then, I plan to take the slaved hard drive out of the HP and put it in the Dell and have it work as usual.  And FINALLY, I would put my right foot in, then put my right foot out, then put my right foot back in again, then shake it all about, and do the hokey-pokey, and turn myself around.  Will that really work?A compressed image of Windows XP may take most of the space on a DVD.
Do you have the XP  install CD for the Dell?
Do you have the Install CD for the HP?

It is tough to get the already installed Dell XP to work on the HP. Near impossible. Not recommended.

I do have the install CD for the HP.  I do not have the install CD for the Dell.  What I wish I could do is get a program where you hit the "switch hard drive contents" button and it does it.
     Perhaps I should use the HP's XP Install CD?Too bad you don';t have some DVDs. Forget  Macrium .
Plan B.
OK. Here is a method that swill work.Be careful.
First, do some maintenance work on both machines. Use checkdsk to verify both drives have a clean file system. Use the derangement utility to more stuff to the start of the partitions.

Second, put  both drives into one desktop. The BIOS can select which drive to boot. Lets say you put them both in the HP. Do that and boot the HP drive.

Now get a suitable partition manager and shrink 40 GB GB drive and create a new primary partition in the free space. But do not destroy the  Dell OS, you don't have another copy.

Understand that an image is a compressed representation of a partition. A clone is an exact copy the works like the original. A clone can also, is some CASES, wail expand  to use all free space.
Try to clone the HP system partition to the new partition you made o n the Dell drive. Set it as active.
Now reboot and make the BIOS boot the Dell drive. It should come up with a copy of what is still on the HP drive.
Make sure the new clone of the HP is working fine. If need be, do it again. It should work on the second of third try.
(You may need to edit boot.ini to get it to boot right)
Last, clone the Dell partition over to the small drive. You will wipe out the old HP partition.
Do not wipe out the original Dell system until you are sure.

For partition management. there are a number of programs you can use. Here is a free one:
EaseUS® Partition Master Home  - Free
Review:
1 Verify and def rag both drives
2. Shirk large drive and create new active primary partition.
3. Cross Clone the HP to new active partition. Test it.
4. Almost there. Cross Clone the Dell partition. Put it in the Dell and test it. This is important
5. Optional; Clear the old Dell partition. Use it for data, like music files.

If you follow the steps closely this is a non-destructive cross-clone method. There original partitions are still there until the last step.
You must set boot order in BIOS or use the BIOS boot menu, the HP has one.

That is the best I can do for you.
Quote from: Geek-9pm on May 11, 2012, 07:04:22 PM

Too bad you don't have some DVDs. Forget Macrium.


That is the best I can do for you.

Bad  advice in my opinion,

I built my computer several years ago and have been slowly buying new parts to replace. My power source died in Dec 11 so I had FRYS replace it. They informed me my harddrive was dying & I needed to replace it. I saved up and bought a new DRIVE.

I put in the new drive along with the old one in hopes of cloning my old drive before it died. Computer would turn on, fans came on, mobo's fan came on, but nothing else. Monitor, peripherals would not register (no lights on keyboard, no light on mouse, monitor says there's no input signal).

Figured I messed something up, so I removed new harddrive and tried using old set up. Same problem. Removed old drive, figured I would just boot clean with new drive. Put in new drive; no change. Additionally, my DVD drive will no longer open.

Wasn't sure what the problem was. Put Windows 7 on a USB and tried powering on computer with USB in order to have a clean boot. Nothing. Computer does make one beep, but no other response.

I have had issues with all my peripherals before. Sometimes the mouse and keyboard (both USB) won't work in certain SLOTS. The monitor sometimes says it can't find an input signal, but when I restarted in the past, it would magically find the input signal. I've attributed these problems to the failing harddrive, but I'm not so sure now. I have switched which port the monitor cable goes into and which USB the keyboard and mouse go into with no response.

I've been struggling with this for a while and I am going crazy!!

Here's the specs of my computer:

Gigabyte motherboard (GA-P35-DS3L)
Intel Code Duo E4500, 2.20 GHz, 2MB L2 Cache, 800 MHz FSB
4GB Crucial RAM, 800MHz
EVGA NVIDIA 8600GT graphics card
HP w1907 19-inch Widescreen LCD Monitor

Here's what I've been hoping to put in my computer (I'd be happy if just the freaking harddrive would work):

ZOTAC ZT-50403-10L GeForce GTX 550 Ti (Fermi)
SEAGATE Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
OCZ AGILITY 3 AGT3-25SAT3-90G 2.5" 90GB SATA III MLC SSD

I'm not super computer-savvy, but I can usually figure things out if given direction.

I would appreciate any help before I chuck everything off my balcony.

Hi I'm just wondering..

how many RAM usage should be typically used by simply turning on a computer? w/ running nothing aside from an avast! anti virus on the background? Mine sometimes goes up to 34% in the RAM meter and never goes down.

1G ram
Intel Pentium 2.55GHz
Nvidia 8600 GT 1G
Windows 7

I've checked my task manager and have not seen anything fishy. While playing fb applications, my RAM meter goes 90% and up. When I check my task manager, the firefox has the biggest CPU usage with 14%. What do you think? Quote

Mine sometimes goes up to 34% in the RAM meter and never goes down

the firefox has the biggest CPU usage with 14%

oh by the way, I remember always seeing an icon in the systray saying "windows back up in progress". I already disable it last week seeing its the one slowing my computer at that moment. Whenever I click that icon, the back up windows open and it shows that my computer doesnt backs up yet it always shows on my systray.

I have PURCHASE yesterday a 5 chanel sound card of creative company. My sound card produces different level of voice from its each channel. Mean from one channel very LOW voice, second somewhat high and third high. I have tried each type of SETTING but none of those worked. Can anyone PLEASE help me by telling this if this is company's setting or my sound card is not WORKING properly.

So, here is my problem - When my computer is started and ready to work, and I try to launch a game/program, he freezes for 10-20 minutes before starting the program. I think that the problem appeared for the first time when I installed a game from 1996, called EarthSiege II. Every time I played that game, the colors of my computer started to go crazy (red was dark blue, blue was gray, pink was white etc.). After I was done playing, I experienced the problem and I formatted all my computer drives and reinstalled windows, but the problem still exists. Can someone tell me what to do please. I think the problem  is coming from my video card.
I am using Nod 32 as my antivirus. I don`t think that this is a hardware related problem. Probably this game is running something in background, if you have this problem after uninstalling the game than you have only 1 option, to reinstall the OS. Quote from: AnticGod on November 15, 2009, 09:23:01 AM

I don`t think that this is a hardware related problem. Probably this game is running something in background, if you have this problem after uninstalling the game than you have only 1 option, to reinstall the OS.

...After I was done playing, I experienced the problem and I formatted all my computer drives and reinstalled windows, but the problem still exists....

... if you have this problem after uninstalling the game than you have only 1 option, to reinstall the OS.

I think that the problem appeared for the first time when I installed a game from 1996, called EarthSiege II. Every time I played that game, the colors of my computer started to go crazy (red was dark blue, blue was gray, pink was white etc.). After I was done playing, I experienced the problem and I formatted all my computer drives and reinstalled windows, but the problem still exists.

Did you reinstall that game when you reinstalled Windows?

i think your graphic card is the problem..
try to use other video card.

I reinstalled the game BEFORE reinstalling windows. Oh and before I reinstalled windows I formatted the hard disk which means that I deleted every file on the computer.

I know you installed it BEFORE reinstalling windows.  My question was obviously referring to AFTER reinstalling windows. 

And another thing that worries me is that my CPU Usage is 100% non-stop.

my CPU Usage is 100% non-stop. I stopped most of my programs, even the antivirus and it kinda fixed, but not fully, it freezes every 5 min for 1/2 sec.

Oh.. sorry No, I did not reinstall the game.
Hmm.. I dont have a spare video card to try. And another thing that worries me is that my CPU Usage is 100% non-stop. I stopped most of my programs, even the antivirus and it kinda fixed, but not fully, it freezes every 5 min for 1/2 sec.

1.Exactly what program is hogging CPU resources?  Look at the list in Task Manager.  You should be able to determine from that. 

2.What make and model is your computer?  Does it have onboard video, even though you are apparently using an add-on video card?  How old is your computer?  Can you give us some details about the power supply?

What kind of OS are you running, and how much memory does your machine have.

Open task manager to the processes tab. Double-click on the CPU title to sort on that column with highest usage at the top. When the CPU is spiking, which process is chewing the cycles?

check up your cpu temp at bios
if it gives you high temp then change your fan before it burns your processor too.
too high temp can make your unit so slow.

check also in your disk if there is autorun.inf this malware can be the cause too.

I had a slow performance on the Interet and transfering files from the Internet and between servers.

config : HP Vectra VL420, Pentium 4 1,7GHz, 1,5 GB ram, net card Linksys WiFi WMP45G v1.0
the driver that Win7 used is the Broadcom BCMMWL6 5.30.21.0
My router is a Motorola.

My TRANSFER speed was 18KB/s... that PC with XP used to go to easily 250KB/s.

After looking at a lot of FORUMS, even disabling the anti-virus, the Firewall and the Remote Differential Compression.

Nothing changed.

I wired my PC to the router and the speed was ok... so it is not Win7 with the PC, but Win7 and the Net card.

I saw that in the Device MANAGER, there was a Microsoft Virtual Wifi Miniport that INSTALLED at the same time.  I disabled it and ...  I know have the same performance as before.

If it can help anybody...

Regards

I'm building another computer...using Gigabyte's GA-M785GMT - UD2H MB, and AMD 965 AM3 3.4Ghz quad core processor. I believe the highest NON - overclocked RAM speed supported by this processor is DDR 1333.
Gigabyte's spec shows 1800 (OC) then 1666 / 1333 / and 1066. I cannot GET a clear answer from Gigabyte support on this subject. Can anyone answer this? Thanks Quote from: Cobber on November 21, 2009, 05:46:16 PM

... I believe the highest NON - overclocked RAM speed supported by this processor is DDR 1333.
Gigabyte's spec shows 1800 (OC) then 1666 / 1333 / and 1066...

I wasn't SURE if this was the best forum for this question, but oh well:

 Does the Radeon 5870 Graphics Card support PhysX? I know PhysX is an Nvidia thing, but I've noticed quite a few games that have "PhysX exclusive" FEATURES, like dynamically destructible environments or more realistic weather effects etc. I really want to get this card, but it would be nice if I could get the EXTRA PhysX features as well.Personally I'm not even sure exactly what PhysX entails; From what I UNDERSTAND it was DEVELOPED by Ageia, and they were bought by NVidia; this would mean that Nvidia holds the exclusive rights to PhysX.

I'm not 100% in this but they MIGHT still make PhysX cards.You878, here is an article that I found that might give some insight into this.

It doesn't appear that the support is official, but it does seem to be possible.

Hi.
Recently my computer has been having some problems that are making me pretty frustrated. One being that occasionally programs will lock up completely - and by this, I mean I cant even terminate it from the task manager. It just stays there frozen no matter what. Ending the process doesn't WORK either. I have to reset to fix it.

And my USB port suddenly stopped recognizing my devices. It simply SAYS it malfunctioned and when I see what the problem solution is, it just tells me to plug it in again and if that doesn't work, replace it.(which I don't want to do since Im sure its my computer messing up)

Antivirus(AVG) isn't picking up any viruses after a couple scans so its either junk of an antivirus or the problem isn't caused by such.

Im USING Windows Vista Home Edition.

Id really be grateful if anyone could offer me insight.When is the last time you blew th dust out of your computer with a can of compressed air?

Did you make any changes to your computer right before this started? (like install a program or download something)I cleaned the dust out around 2 months ago, maybe more.

No, I didnt install anything new that I know of, and I didn't download anything besides the usual music and video off YOUTUBE(and Ive been doing it for a while so I dont think problems would show up now)MangoFreak, have you re-opened the case(SOUNDS like lawyer speak) to reseat the components?  It sounds like something may have come loose during the cleaning the process and is not making a permanent connection.

A couple of months ago I began to have a problem where my computer would shut itself off.After a while it would turn back on. Then about a month ago it shut itself off and now there is no video. I took it to a local shop and they said it looked LIKE it sould have been either/or the board or CPU. The computer is an old Compaq Presario 5108US an a MV 720 monitor.It has an AMD 1.2 cpu. Recently I put in a 450 watt power supply and upgraded to memory to 640 MB ram. After replacing board and cpu the computer ran 18 hours and then shut down again. This time I deceided to replace the video CARD. I put in a nvivia GE Force 8400GS and STILL can't get video. As a matter of fact I have tried 4 different cards and still no video. I also tried the cpu from my sons computer-a P3 and still nothing.
Does anyone have any idea as to what is going on with this computer? Is it a lost cause or can it be fixed?
Thanks Bob

How do i get my wireless computer to print on the printer attached to my other computer? 1. Make sure they are on a network.
2. On printer COMP: START -> Printers and Faxes -> RIGHT CLICK printer -> properties -> sharing
3. Fill in the information in the sharing window.
4. On the wireless one: Start -> Printers and Faxes -> ADD Printer
5. Fill in info and install drivers on the wireless computer.

woukd switching out the hard DRIVE FIX the BSOD"? thankksMore INFO...I'm so TEMPTED................................ ...

When I went to college 6 MONTHS ago. I brought my custom built desktop with me, worked FINE before I left. Got to school set it up, and when I'm running many processes on my computer or loading up a game it will turn off. Then after that some times won't even turn back on. I thought maybe it was my power supply since the one I had was the minimum power I needed, and was old. So I bought a brand new PSU with more power, and the same problem is happening.

Here is my specs

Motherboard: Gigabyte S Series P35-DS3R
PSU:Corsair TX 850 W
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E6750 2.66GHz (2 CPUs)
Memory: 4 Gigs of Ram
Hard Drive: 800 Gig HD Total
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT

I tried many different ideas to fix it. I thought it was either the power supply was going bad, or over heating. But I got a new power supply and the heating is normal

UPDATE:
Alright, I just removed everything from my computer, took motherboard out and processor out. Put it all back in and made sure everything was connected, and connected tightly. Computer turned on, and was loading everything. Tested loading a game, and right before the map loaded up it crashed. Then turned computer right back on, and turned off in a minute or so.

I'm going try get all my information on my backup hard drive then reformat. If that doesn't work any idea?Does it just shut off if it has been idle for a while or only when under loads?

How did you test to see that heating is normal?

What brand and wattage PSU is the replacement ? ?THe brand of my new PSU is PSU:Corsair TX 850 W

It's only turning off when loading and doing processes. For example when it hasn't been on for a while, I'll LOAD it up and the whole computer will load. I will be able to get on browsing the internet. I'll load up a game, for example CoD5 or CoD4. The game will load up to the menu but when it GOES to the game actually it crashes. It will also do it when I'm rendering movies, or doing anything that takes alot of CPU power or memory. Then after it crashes I'll turn it back on and it will crash while Windows is loadingSounds like it could be a heat issue.

Have you tried running with the side off and a fan blowing in it?I have had the side off it for a while, plus my custom case is a special cooling case with alot of fans and such. Any programs I can get to check the temperature speedfan...This is my results for speedfan


uhhhh that seems high? would this cause the problem?I don't like SpeedFan for monitoring temps & fans.  Just a little too hard to read.  See if you like this one better:  http://www.cpuid.com/hwmonitor.php
Can't see your pic, anyway.Kinda hard to see but you should be able to tell if it is. QUOTE from: reiger on November 20, 2009, 03:03:19 PM

Kinda hard to see but you should be able to tell if it is.

I have the toughest time writing to the computers CD/DVD Drive or an USB connected CD/DVD Drive.  This has been
CAUSING me frustration since the invent of the CD.  Currently I am running Windows 7 32bit on a Sony Vaio Computer.  4G Ram.  Should I
always have to pre format all Media prior to writing?  Quote

Should I always have to pre format all Media prior to writing?

This has been causing me frustration since the invent of the CD.

Gives me a message that their is DATA on the DisK

You need to preformat CD-RW disks but not CD-R ones.

the cd-rw disk that I have used in the past with out preformating.

I was not aware of this an apparently neither are the cd-rw disk that I have used in the past with out preformating.

Ok guys,

had problems with building my NEW computer so I called in a pc REPAIR guy. He fixed it for me and managed to get the computer working, with the monitor actually turning on. He LEFT me to fix the rest.....and left. Since then, not been ABLE to get the monitor back on.

The processor cooling system is working as is the fan on the graphics card both of which are spinning. The monitor cable is firmly plugged into the computer, and I have not DAMAGED it in the short time the technican has left my house.


I am a total and utter loss guys! When you switch on the monitor does the LED light up? Is there a message that says "No Signal" or something similar?

Hello, I am currently doing a science project based on finding the ideal cooling system for a pc. I have already taken several PREPARATIONS for this project, including:
1. studying several concepts such as thermodynamics and geometry, as well as other miscelaneous physics excerts.
2. Going around to different computer repair businesses in my area and questioning them about the about cooling systems.
3. Using sites explaining the cooling systems listed below in order to attain a good idea of how I would implement them for myself.

And now I have COME to this site in search of info. Any advice or GUIDES you can offer on any of the systems listed is of great help to me. ALSO, below the cooling systems list is my idea of the ideal cooling liquid to be used in submersion( and possibly water plating) systems. Thanks again for any tips you can offer.

The following cooling systems I will be testing include
1. stock system
2. liquid submersion
3. water plating/w and without specially designed motherboards
4. phase change cooling
5. thermo-electric cooling (peltier EFFECT)
and hopefully (meaning I would die if I could get the chance to do this)
6. liquid nitrogen cooling

Ideal Liquid Coolant
1. does not conduct electricity
2. does not corrode metal or react with it
3. does not stick to metal surfaces
4. does not produce toxic fumes (being toxic is okay as long as it does not release fumes)
5. has a high heat capactiy
6. has a high thermal conductivity
7. has low turbulence when going through filter and radiatorMineral oil.Is that safe, considering, its combustable?http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/m7700.htmComputer submersed in mineral oil.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtufuXLvOokHow about using de-ionized water? We use it to keep electronics cool in the thrusters of some of our drill ships. I'd be fine with using combustable substances if I could just find a way to seal off the liquid and the parts of the pc that will be submerged. Anyone know of a pratical way of doing this? Also, can someone give me a site that provides a deep guide on building a computer that can explain everything I will need to know when purchasing parts and assembling one. Thanks in advance!If you plan on submerging it what's the point of sealing off components ? ?
You're contradicting yourself here...

I've installed the driver using WINDOWS update facility as the unit came along with Vista/XP DRIVERS, while I use windows 7.
now after CONNECTING the cable to the back, and running media center, no CHANNELS were found. I VERIFIED that the cable is working fine.
any other changes that can be done?

I am trying to set up a computer to play MP4 files. The Computer is a Compaq PC, and has a CPU speed of 500 MHz (which I suspect is the PROBLEM). I am using Win2000 as my OS, and am trying to play the files using VLC Media Player.

My problem is that the sound of the file works fine, but the video images won't play smoothly. There is little actual motion of the video, it jumps from static display to the next display. I have downloaded the latest version of DirectX, and the latest video drivers, but the problem persists.

How can I correct this problem?
Tom Quote

The Computer is a Compaq PC, and has a CPU speed of 500 MHz

The video card is more important than the CPU when playing videos. But an upgrade CPU of 1Ghz would probably help. I am assuming that it is a socket 370 Celeron or Pentium III.
If you could provide more specs, I could help you find the correct type of card and CPU.

I have an ancient compaq 5BW130 that I fit into a modded IBM PC XT case.  Don't tell me to get a new computer! I am trying to see how fast I can make it. I decided to get a graphics card for it and when I opened it up, I realized that the whole time the CMOS jumper was set to clear. It had been working fine that way for probably about a year. Now that I have a graphics card, this becomes a problem because I need it to save settings to CMOS. So I turned it off and moved the jumper to normal and then turned it back on again. It booted and started SCANNING RAM for errors. After that, it said that it reset to default settings and restarted. But when it restarted, it did the same thing again (scanning RAM, setting to default...) and kept restarting until I powered it off. So the only way it will boot is if the CMOS jumper is set to clear.

How can I make it save settings to CMOS so that I can change from on-board video to graphic card?Replace the CMOS BATTERY...PART # CR2032I checked the battery as it says in the title. I used a volt meter and it was about 3.08 volts. I also tried taking out the battery and hooking it up to a DC power supply set to 3.1 volts. It's not the battery.

I am starting to think they labeled the motherboard wrong in the factory because when I put the jumper back to CMOS clear position, it started saving all the settings.

This should be OK for now. I'll post later if I have problems when I install the card. Quote from: Linux711 on November 21, 2009, 01:02:46 PM

I am starting to think they labeled the motherboard wrong in the factory because when I put the jumper back to CMOS clear position, it started saving all the settings.

I'm having an issue with my LCD screen. I was browsing the net like I always do, and my screen just shut-off. Went black. I tried to restart, checked the power cable and the video cable(I think that's what it's called. Correct me if i'm wrong), and pretty much everything else I could think of.

Occasionally, the screen flashed back on for less than a second then went black again. But that was only once or twice, it has never done that since.

I also got another screen and video cable from my uncle to try and see if it was the screen that was the problem. But it didn't TURN on either, so my guess is that its the CONNECTION between the screen and the PC.

I have checked the video cable but i do not see and bent pins on either side, or any gashes or cuts in it.

Any suggestions?Do you have another video card you can try?No its built inI'm a little confused. You said you borrowed a display and cable from your uncle and it still did not work, but you still think the problem may be with the cable? Did I misunderstand something?No, I think the problem might be on the motherboard. I said the connection between the screen and the PC. So I guess that could be misinterpreted.

But I meant the motherboard.Did that throw you off?No. It sounds like it might be the video card / chip. Best bet TAKE it in to a professional??BAD motherboard VGA connector. Quote from: Computer_Commando on November 21, 2009, 04:53:27 PM

Bad motherboard VGA connector.

I was thinking more like dirt in the connector socket.

Need a magnifier to look inside, then carefully insert a paper clip.  If something's in there, don't want it to get jammed.

Make sure you are grounded to the computer and that it is turned off before you do that.

What type of cable are you using to connect to the monitor?

Hi
Apologies if this has ALREADY been posted as I'm new to this site. I'm having trouble as my laptop screen has gone completely blank.
Its an Acer Aspire 5520 running Vista, it was working perfectly and then once i restarted it and the screen never came on since. First time i restarted it though and the screen didn't come on I did hear the vista sound start up, although now it doesn't (could be as I turned it off without shutting down an as a result is going to the repair boot up part).
I've checked very closely at the screen in case its just the backlight turned off but I still see nothing. The only problem I used to get is that the screen used to go all weird an blurry an pictures was placed randomly (kinda hard to describe).
Also I tried connecting it to an external monitor an nothing was displayed (monitor couldn't find a connection an went to sleep) although that could just be as its not configured to use an external monitor.
Any help would be great thanks
1.  Video Subsystem.  My best guess is you've lost your integrated video (as in broken/dead).  Someone more FAMILIAR with laptops would need to opine as to your options (whether it can be fixed or video subsystem replaced).

From Acer Aspire 5520 Specification(s):
Quote

Video Subsystem    ATI Radeon X1250 integrated 3D graphics with up to 896 MB of HyperMemory (256 MB of dedicated system memory, up to 640 MB of shared system memory), supporting Microsoft DirectX 9, PCI Express

Page 31.  Hotkeys.  The computer employs hotkeys or key combinations to access most of the computer's controls like screen brightness, volume output and the BIOS utility.  To activate hotkeys, press and HOLD the <Fn> key before pressing the other key in the hotkey combination.

<Fn> + <F4>.  Sleep.  Puts the computer in Sleep mode.

<Fn> + <F5>.  Display toggle.  Switches display output between the display screen, external monitor (if connected) and both.

<Fn> + <F6>.  Screen blank.  Turns the display screen backlight off to save power.  Press any key to return.

<Fn> + <right-arrow>.  Brightness up.  Increases the screen brightness.

Page 40.  Nothing appears on the screen.

The computer's power management system automatically blanks the screen to save power.  Press any key to turn the display back on.

If pressing a key does not turn the display back on, three things might be the cause:
     o  The brightness level might be too low.  Press <Fn> + <right-arrow key> (increase) to adjust the brightness level.
     o  The display device might be set to an external monitor.  Press the display toggle hotkey <Fn> + <F5> to toggle the display back to the computer.
     o  If the Sleep indicator is lit, the computer is in Sleep mode.  Press and release the power button to resume.

i cannot rename my SYSTEM properties and PUT my INFO in it. how do i restore my system32 and windows folder WITHOUT formating? HELP!!!!!!!!

Hi,

The other day I turned my PC on and it loaded up windows with no problem messages, however right from the start the screen had horizontal and vertical lines all over it (I have attached 3 photos of this), and my desktop had been rearranged and moved to a lower resolution. I have not installed any programs for a while and do not use the internet on this PC (Games and music only) so I didnt think it could be a virus/program CONFLICT.

Sometimes when I turn it on it is OK but after about 5 minutes it will revert back to having the screen problem.

My setup is below; (what I remember)
Dell
Vista - Home edition
2 Gb ram
Nvidia Geforce 8800GT video card

Any thoughts/suggestions would be helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help!

[Saving space, attachment deleted by admin]Is it on-board video, or separate video card?
Same thing in Safe  Mode?
Hi Broni,

It is a separate video card. I am pretty sure that it did the same thing in safe mode, but I will double check that when I get home.

Thanks,
If it does it in both modes, then the card itself is a problem.
Either overheating, or just GOING bad.
You may try to re-seat it.
Just to make sure, I'd also try another monitor.Thanks Broni. I will see how it goes with another monitor & also try re-seating it.

Thanks again for all of your help! I'll let you know how I goNo problem Hi Broni,

I checked in safe mode, and it still does the same thing. I also tried to re-seat the card and this did not fix the problem.

Unfortunately I have recently had a clean up and donated my other old monitors away so I have been unable to check this with another monitor.

Do you think that this means that the video card will just need to be replaced or would something else be causing this?

ThanksProbably the card, but you can run another test to make sure.
Remove the card completely, enable on-board video in BIOS and see, if the problem is gone.
If so, bad card.Can you try the monitor on a friends computer to see if that is the problem?Hi Broni/Quantos,

I have managed to test the monitor on another PC and it works fine. I have also managed to get my hands on an older Graphics card and I am now using this old card without any problems.

I am now looking to purchase a new video card. I have done some research and I think I have FOUND the right one for me, but I am not sure on a few things,
1) Will it fit?
2) Will my computer be able to handle it, i.e. power requirements and connections

This is the one I am looking at, http://www.synnex.com.au/Default.aspx?tabid=27&mid=339&ctl=CatalogItemDetails&CatalogItemID=262828&Brand=Gigabyte&item=N98TSL-1GI&search=true&page=1
Do you know if this would be OK for my computer?

Thanks,I'm glad to see, you found the culprit

As for that video card, I'm not a hardware guy, but make sure, you have PCI EXPRESS slot on your motherboard and serious power supply:
Quote

Minimum 450W or greater system power supply (with a minimum 12V CURRENT rating of 24A)

i took my dvd rom out of a BROKEN sony and put it in my HP and hooked it up and it opens and closes so does this MEAN it works now?It only MEANS, the power works. You won't know about data until you put some DVD in.

I sent my computer into the shop to see if they could fix the blue screen errors I've been having (NRQL no less or equal) and he said that he'd fix it.

He called back later and says that he'll do a tune-up. He said that's where he'll make it run faster and also put a virus protector on it.

So I get it back and I hook it up. The first 3 times I try to turn it on it beeps a bunch. Then the 4th time it turns on fine. But now it's going REALLY!!!! (well compared to when I first gave it to him) slow. He put AVG-free 9.0 and Anti-malware software.

I found out that I only get the blue screens when I PLUG in my "Wifi-Max" adapter. So I still get the blue screens. And now my computer is really slow. So I payed 95$ for him to slow my computer down.... wow. I could have got both of those programs myself. They were free..... I'm pissed!

So I guess what I'm asking is, How do I bring it back up to full speed again?
And the second question is, Is there a way to be able to use my wifi max adapter WITHOUT getting those blue screens?Bring it back to the shop, or get your money back.Joeac, BRONI is right.  It's up to the shop to make things right for you.  Take it back and get them to fix it, or complain and get a refund.

However let us know how it turns out.  If they won't give you any satisfaction we would be more than happy to help you sort out the problem, but we don't want to see you pay for something that you don't get.Yeah I would say bring it back!!
and I could be completely wrong but the blue screens might just mean you need to reinstall or update/get a better driver for your "wi-fi max" although the no less or equal I've been told is due to memory (probably wrong here).$95? you got screwed. Geek squad checks you pc over for a bout 70$ Quote from: cintari on November 23, 2009, 02:40:39 PM

$95? you got screwed. Geek squad checks you pc over for a bout 70$

You have just lost all credibility you had recommending Geek Squad for anything...

ok then. who do you suggest for novice pc users to take their computer to when it breaks down?

ok then. who do you suggest for novice pc users to take their computer to when it breaks down?

Hey GUYS,

I have a computer which is only 2 years old. At startup there are three long beeps. If I remember correctly, that corresponds to a keyboard error (3270 ? I might be wrong. Or is three long beeps memory?).

Any ideas on how to fix it? Hopefully without having to buy anything NEW

Thanks in advance!   Could you post some specs? Could guess at keyboard, graphics card, bad memory stick, etc... but it's easier if you have the make, model, bios version. Three long beeps is indeed the keyboard error, it MAY be time to replace the keyboard.  I assume you unplugged the keyboard and plugged it back in to make sure?If you go to the website of your bios manufacturer the beep codes should be listed.Or From Our Vast Archives...Who was that MASKED MAN?   Yes, I checked the "vast archives" and it is a keyboard error.
My first response was to plug, then unplug the keyboard, and obviously my computer decided not to cooperate. Hmmm.

Do I have to replace the 3270 keyboard card? I hope not...

I NEED to use this for graphic intense video games (Grand Theft Auto IV, and other games), and also video and sound editing. I am ordering it if it is going to suit me, so here are the specifications:

Mother Board: Intel DX58SO Core i7/ Intel X58/DDR3-1333/CrossFire/ A&GbE/ ATX Motherboard.

CPU: Intel Core i7 Processor i7-950 3.06GHz 8MB LGA1366 CPU.

Memory: Kingston 2 GB 1333MHz DDR3 Non-ECC CL9 DIMM System Memory. (x4 adding up to 8 GB)

Video Card: EVGA nVidia GeForce GTX 275 1.7 GB DDR3 2DVI/HDTV PCI-Express Video Card.

HDD: Western Digital WD10EADS 1TB SATA2 32MB Power Saving Hard Drive. (x2 so 2TB )

Power Supply: ThermalTake WO22RU Toughpower XT 750W Power Supply.

OS: Microsoft WIN 7 Ultimate 64-Bit EGLISH 1PK.

_______________________________________ _______________________________________ __________


Thats' the important info  *drools*

That should certainly do the trick for you.

  A COUPLE of things that you missed listing are the power supply and the HDD.  Quote from: Quantos on November 22, 2009, 06:13:53 AM

*drools*

That should certainly do the trick for you.

<edit>  A couple of things that you missed listing are the power supply and the HDD.  </edit>

I need to use this for graphic intense video games (Grand Theft Auto IV, and other games), and also video and sound editing. I am ordering it if it is going to suit me, so here are the specifications:

Mother Board: Intel DX58SO Core i7/ Intel X58/DDR3-1333/CrossFire/ A&GbE/ ATX Motherboard.

CPU: Intel Core i7 Processor i7-950 3.06GHz 8MB LGA1366 CPU.

Memory: Kingston 2 GB 1333MHz DDR3 Non-ECC CL9 DIMM System Memory. (x4 adding up to 8 GB)

Video Card: EVGA nVidia GeForce GTX 275 1.7 GB DDR3 2DVI/HDTV PCI-Express Video Card.

HDD: Western Digital WD10EADS 1TB SATA2 32MB Power Saving Hard Drive. (x2 so 2TB )

Power Supply: ThermalTake WO22RU Toughpower XT 750W Power Supply.

OS: Microsoft WIN 7 Ultimate 64-Bit EGLISH 1PK.

_______________________________________ _______________________________________ __________


Thats' the important info 

And, you need 2TB of HD space because ... well, because you're going to download the Internet, right?    

And, you need 2TB of HD space because ... well, because you're going to download the Internet, right?    

Computer problem started after started the computer but did not actually USE it so I just turned it off or cut the power. Before this I have [XP Pro w/Sp3 on my 30 GB hddrv and Win7 on my 200 GB that were WORKING properly. Upon starting the very next time Win7 would not load, the computer booted up till it gave me the choice of picking Win7 or reverting back the O/S to a previous version. I have been using Win7 but this time it would not move out of the boot sequence. When I chose Win7 or XP it stopped. I watched this for about 2 wks.   I was very confused as my computer problem, I took everything out, why you ask, I don’t know. Anyway I reinstalled a previous MB (p4p8x), It appears it doesn’t work, It showed no indication that it would work, So I took it out and put my p4p800D-X back in as I knew that It worked before, but now it quits during the post procedure. I used a pci posttest CARD, still installed, its readout gave a FAULT reading [d3 and possible 0110] readout. That’s  where I am know.  As I reread my post- I forgot to list the first good working MB was a P4P800D-X which worked great till the above problem showed up. Igave up on the P4P8X MB put back theP4P800D-X in which is where my {problem REALY started}. My first thought is RAM. I didn't lookup those mobos, but did you keep all the other components the same? Same CPU, video card, etc?

Hello
Many speakers have a sub-woofer. You can listen to music and play game at HIGH level volume with LEFT and RIGHT speaker, but what EXACTLY do sub-woofer?  It makes some tone (or blow) like breathing out.

Thanks
A subwoofer is used to EMPHASIZE the bass audio frequencies. You do not need a subwoofer, but if you have one the bass sounds will be deeper than without it.On my PC, I have a subwoofer. It will give deeper bass sounds. It is used in cars, on computer sound systems, and surrondsound systems.
On a car, I never hear it, but on a 2.1 speaker system which I have on my PC, I hear it well.
BASSSSSSSSSSSS
It gives you bass!!!!!!!!!!
aka the best things ever

Hi,
    I'm actually asking a question on behalf of my cousin, she's got a dell desktop, with a vista o.s. Her keyboard has SUDDENLY locked! The  lights for cap locks & number lock do work, although they're very slow to respond.  can't type a thing! How does she sort this out?
When she goes to "hardware" in "CONTROL panel," it says the keyboard is working PROPERLY.
Any help much appreciated, thanks!Try a different keyboard. Make sure you turn the computer off when you swap them. Quote from: JJ 3000 on November 24, 2009, 12:09:52 PM

...Make sure you turn the computer off when you swap them.

Ok, so I had a problem with my old rewriter as it was recognizing blank DVDs as CDs and so I got a different DVD rewriter and it is doing the same, so I think it's a BIOS or jumper problem.

What should I set my BIOS settings to and what should I set my jumper settings to? Many thanks.The BIOS won't cause this, and the only jumper on new optical drives is for the Master/Slave setting.
Can you provide us with more information about your system so that we can help you sort this out?Sure, what would you like to know? It's a PIONEER DVD-RW  DVR-112D.

What OS are you running?
What service pack is installed?
Are there any yellow or red FLAGGED devices in Device Manager?
What DVD/CD burning software are you using?OS - Windows XP
Service Pack 3
No flagged devices in DEV Man
I'm not using any DVD/CD burning software at the moment, I removed them all before I installed the new rewriter. I was using Cyberlink Power2go.This was in regedit:

Windows will show it according to what disk was used in it last...

Again...how is it HOOKED up inside the machine ? ?It's connected to the HDD.If there is another IDE connector you should use it...

If not the HDD should be jumpered master with the DVD as slave and cabled as follows:

MB===========================Master=========Slave.

But i doubt this is a jumper setting as Windows is showing the drive.
DLoad install and test CDBurnerXPro to see if the drive works.....FREE.The drive recognizes blank CDs as blank CDs, but it recognizes blank DVD-Rs as blank CDs. Quote from: w4yn3 on November 25, 2009, 07:46:03 AM

The drive recognizes blank CDs as blank CDs, but it recognizes blank DVD-Rs as blank CDs.

DLoad install and test CDBurnerXPro to see if the drive works.....FREE.

Would a bad moden cause  my dialup to boot me more frequently? I hate dialup, and it`s worse lately because it continues to boot me off-line.

I`ve received a couple error messages saying my modem was having issues.

I saw a tech replace my modem once, he opened the face of the CPU and put the new one in, then had to go into the software and do something.....is this something I could handle?

It`s a Dell 8400 series computer......Hi Hunter,

Are you comfortable opening up your computer and touching the electronics, possibly disconnecting cables, and pulling circuit boards out of one slot to be replaced by a different circuit board? If so, sure, you can handle it. As an alternative, it would probably be a small bit more expensive, but easier to buy a USB modem. Try something like this:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3718719&CatId=564


You could just plug this into an available USB port, unplug the phone cable from your existing modem and plug it into this. That should do the trick.

As a third alternative, since you hate dial-up, have you looked at broadband? I'm assuming you don't have cable or DSL available in your area or you would have already switched. What about cellular internet? AT&T, Verizon, Sprint, and OTHERS all offer small USB "dongles" that connect to their respective CELL networks and provide a much faster speed than dial-up. Sometimes faster than DSL. I have used both Verizon and ATT. I prefer VZ in my area, but you should check your coverage. I think they all cap the monthly download size at 5GB, but that should be more than enough. If you're coming from dial-up, you're not downloading 5GB per month, anyway. Just don't go crazy with online video and downloading huge podcasts or something.

Good luck!If you could post these error messages it would be a great HELP and any other pc information you have. It may not be a faulty modem, could be a few other issues as well. Quote from: mypersonaltechadvisor on November 25, 2009, 12:12:48 AM

Hi Hunter,

Are you comfortable opening up your computer and touching the electronics, possibly disconnecting cables, and pulling circuit boards out of one slot to be replaced by a different circuit board? If so, sure, you can handle it. As an alternative, it would probably be a small bit more expensive, but easier to buy a USB modem. Try something like this:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3718719&CatId=564


You could just plug this into an available USB port, unplug the phone cable from your existing modem and plug it into this. That should do the trick.

As a third alternative, since you hate dial-up, have you looked at broadband? I'm assuming you don't have cable or DSL available in your area or you would have already switched. What about cellular internet? AT&T, Verizon, Sprint, and others all offer small USB "dongles" that connect to their respective cell networks and provide a much faster speed than dial-up. Sometimes faster than DSL. I have used both Verizon and ATT. I prefer VZ in my area, but you should check your coverage. I think they all cap the monthly download size at 5GB, but that should be more than enough. If you're coming from dial-up, you're not downloading 5GB per month, anyway. Just don't go crazy with online video and downloading huge podcasts or something.

Good luck!

If you could post these error messages it would be a great help and any other pc information you have. It may not be a faulty modem, could be a few other issues as well.

hunter480,As you are undoubtedly aware dial up modems are prone to many issues besides sloooow speed.For instance noise on the phone line can cause the issue you are experiencing. A couple of observations : if you really must continue your internet experience with dial up my own experience back when was that "US Robotics" 56k modems seem to be more reliable than others. If you need to replace yours think of one of theirs (if you can still find one). Dial up modems are getting harder to find in bricks and mortar stores. On line should present more opportunities. Would it be possible for you to locate your DSL (AT&T) (if they are your only dsl option) outside the house? Usually the problem of dsl reception is caused by too great a distance from the terminal box location (theirs). Do any of your immediate neighbors have a dsl connection?truenorth
P.S. I really doubt that placing the antenae/modem for dsl outside will make any real difference as the signal is coming into the house via the existing telephone line whereas your "cell" signal is coming through the air.
P.P.S. Your post (last) came in as i was replying --so it looks like the "U.S. Robotics" suggestion is already in place. Do you have another computer you could try to check on it's experience with your dial up connection?

yesterday my computer basically froze after being on all night. i could move the mouse, but no programs would run or open. task manager also would not open. i restarted the computer and the same thing happened. on the next restart i hit F12 and went into the diagnostic tests. the following tests failed:

DST short test: fail, error 2000-0146

during the second part of the diag these are the errors i received:

0F00:0244
MSG: Block 79612 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 79613 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 6397962 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 55592738 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 55592739 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 65816642 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 65816643 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 110111448 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected

0F00:1A44
MSG: Block 79612 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 79613 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 6397962 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 55592738 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 55592739 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 65816642 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 65816643 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected
MSG: Block 110111448 uncorrectable data error or media is write protected

when i go to start in safe mode, i get an error saying there's a problem loading SPTD.sys. i can hit esc and it loads to safe mode.

i have a dell inspiron e1505 (laptop), windows xp media center edition, SP2

what are my OPTIONS for fixing this problem?

thanks! Quote from: saytheya on November 23, 2009, 03:14:27 PM

...i have a dell inspiron e1505 (laptop), windows xp media center edition, SP2
what are my options for fixing this problem?...

SeaTools...

That's the recommended method of running them...whether it'll be faster or not i won't speculate...

okay...so did i download the right file and can i just burn the .exe file to a cd?

There are instructions on the site for creating a bootable CD.

This is a waste of time...the drive is dead/dying.

This is a waste of time...the drive is dead/dying.

I am trying to reformat an older hard DRIVE so that I can put xp on it cleanly.  It previously had 98 on it.  I put it as a slave on ANOTHER computer and reformatted it, then shutdown and put it as the master and unhooked the other hd.  On startup, it goes through the BIOS, but asks for a floppy drive.  I don't even have the floppy drive hooked up.  Any suggestions?

Thanks for your help.You have to BOOT from XP CD: http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/cleanxpinstall.htmlThanks for the link!

hi! i'm new here and i'm having trouble with my HDD.

  I have 30G IDE HDD partitioned into 10G and 20G. On the 10G I installed windows and on the other ubuntu. I had a problem booting into the ubuntu partition and needing to get some FILES from the 20G partition I used a program called Ext2fsd to see the root.disk file (which i wasn't able to). So i changed the partition setting to extended and the hard disk size changed from 20G to 811G. Instead of changing to NTFS it became RAW.
  I tried to change it back to its original settings but to no avail. I also tried to reformat it but it didn't work. But when i look and mount it using the program Find and Mount i could still see the ubuntu INSTALLATION.

  I gave up on GETTING the files back but i need to reformat the second HDD partition to reinstall ubuntu.

  I hope you could give me some input on how to fix this problem. Thanks in advance.Assuming you can still boot the Windows operating system, perhaps you can use it to delete the second partition.  Then you can define a new partition of whatever TYPE and size you need.

If you're working with Windows XP, I believe the disk management utility will permit you to view the current disk structure (and delete the second partition).

To access within Windows XP:
     o  select "Start" ->
     o  right-click "My Computer" ->
     o  select "Manage" ->
     o  within "Storage" category on left pane of "Computer Management" window, select "Disk Management".

Look for information in both the top right-hand pane and the bottom right-hand panes of Computer Management window.
Thank you for the help.

I have deleted and reformatted the partition. CURRENTLY installing ubuntu now.

I'm truly grateful for the help.

I MAKE movies on my mac. I use a 1.5TB Seagate external hard drive to store all the footage that I shoot. Long story short, my mac isn't LETTING me open it without formatting the drive. Is there any way to recover my highly important files inside it?

Long version:
Today I needed to get some files onto my PC, so I plugged in the hard drive. My PC recognized that a drive had been inserted, but would not show it in the explorer. I did some searching and found that I could assign the drive a letter in the Disk Management section of the Computer Management tool. So I did it. My PC then proceeded to tell me that I could not open the driver without formatting it. So, I ejected it and plugged it back into my mac. Now, my mac told me the same thing. I now have an external hard drive that contains all of my filmmaking projects and cannot be read by a mac or PC.

Someone, please help! There must be a way to get this lost data back!

Specs:
Mac OS: OS 10.4.11
PC OS: Vista (Service Pack 1)
Hard Drive: 1.5TB Seagate Desktop External Drive
Hard Drive Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled)

Thank you for ANY help or INSIGHT you may be able to provide.

EDIT: The only help that I have gotten so far on this issue is that the problem is the boot sector of the drive is corrupted. Is there a way to REPAIR the boot sector of the drive?

EDIT 2: Using the Disk Utility, I tried verifying the disk and this is what I got: Code: [Select]Verifying volume “disk2s1”
** /dev/disk2s1
Invalid BS_jmpBoot in boot block: 000000
Error: The underlying task reported failure on exit


1 non HFS volume checked
Volume needs repair

thanks...this is a COMPAQ pavilion a6400la pc,..and it has a tvcard ASUSTek TV7160E instaled,..but when I TRAY to use the TV card with the remot control ...so power on the control then the pc turn off... COULD you help me ....god bless youIs this "TV card" a new hardware installation? If so and you have followed the instructions provided correctly and you are not getting the desired result use the contact information in your instruction manual to call the manufacturer and they will guide you over the telephone.truenorthLet me get this straight, your trying to turn your computer on and off with the tvtuner?  It will be interesting to find out (if the O/P returns) what the actual issue is? I took the problem to be that when he uses the "remote" for the TV tuner card that instead of turning  on/off the TV tuner function it is turning on/off the PC. That is what i responded to.truenorthI'm glad I'm not the only one confused by this post.

Probably the remote uses IR and the TV card has a dongle with an IR sensor.  I've seen very few PCs with an IR sensor so I don't think it is an IR code conflict.  And the few PCs that use IR use it mainly to communicate with printers, not to turn it on and off.

My guess is that something on the TV tuner card is shorting out when activated and shutting down the PC. Quote from: nicolas on November 25, 2009, 02:35:34 PM

thanks...this is a compaq pavilion a6400la pc,..and it has a tvcard ASUSTek TV7160E instaled,..but when I tray to use the tv card with the remot control ...so power on the control then the pc turn off... could you help me ....god bless you

Hi I NEED to change a lcd screen. I believe the lcd screen in the Fujitsu laptop is just a 15.4 standard. I do have here a 15.4 "widescreen" lcd from a HP laptop. My QUESTION is can i transplant the widescreen from the hp to the fujitsu. I don't know the exact model of the HP but the Fujitsu is a Fujitsu Siemens Amilo li 2727. I am wondering about the cross compatibilty between the standard lcd and the widescreen. Just for the record the connections are the same. Any help as always very MUCH appreciated.

Best Regards
ChrisOk got the information i need. No need to REPLY. thankyou

I have an HP Pavilion dv5t laptop computer.  I want to capture and edit video but the laptop doesn't have a firewire/ IEEE1394 port.
Not sure what my best option/most realiable solution is.

1. install a firewire express card into the 54mm slot
(I've read reviews that my SonyDCR-HC21 camcorder is problematic with a plethora of express cards for some reason)

2. replace the existing graphics card/driver (Intel Grapics Media Accelerator 4500MHD)

3.  Buy a BRAND new laptop with an IEEE1394 port.  

Any advice and recommendations on cards (firewire, graphics) that work well are greatly appreciated.


My laptop is about a year old and is decent so I don't really NEED a new one but that hasn't kept me from looking and rationalizing a new one...

In case it matters:
HP Pavilion dv5t Latop with 4gig RAM, running MS Vista, Pentium Dual-Core Mobile Processor (2.0GHz)...

Thanks for the advice!!!
You can't replace the graphics card in a laptop, so your limited to options 1 or 3.If you don't mind spending the money I would SUGGEST you buy a desktop and use it for your video editing. This will ALLOW you to get a better system for your money compared to a laptop and it is upgradable later. 1.  Which model do you have:
     a.  HP Pavilion dv5-1000
     b.  HP Pavilion dv5-1100
     c.  HP Pavilion dv5-1200

The "Maintenance and Service Guide" lists a 1394 port (on select models only) on the left side from the front between the digital media slot and the USB port.

Just a sanity check.  Why would they produce an Entertainment PC (laptop) without a firewire port?Its a Pavailon dv5t-1000.

It does not have firewire.  I was shocked.  Its a custom build (from hp.com) and the specs on the dv5t included IEEE 1394 so I just ASSUMED all models have it.  They don't.  Apparently if you didn't upgrade the graphics card, you don't get the firewire port. 

You can actually see where it would be on the case but its not punched out/no card.
Ugh!

That's why I was thinking of an expansion express card or upgrading the graphics card (I was told that the graphics card isn't integrated into the motherboard so it could be swapped.  If it turns out to be intergrated as many HP laptops are, I that option isn't possible).

I really can't do a desktop (good suggestion though) because of space/mobility issues which is why I was thinking new laptop.

Any one else have experiences with firewire express cards? 

Thanks for all your help.

I have a dv6000 that when the laptop is on and the power cord is plugged the power button and the charging light flash he whole time it is plugged up and it will not charge.  When the plug is removed the LIGHTS quit flashing.  When the laptop is off it will charge fine.  The battery holds a good 1 1/2 to 2 hour long charge continuous use which is pretty good considering the laptop is 4 years old and the original battery.  The charger is new.  Any HELP help will be appreciated. The operating system is XP SP2, no modifications.Hi, just re-posting to see if I can get any information.  Has nobody seen this before.  I thought it would be a SIMPLE configuration PROBLEM that I could not find.  I searched the web with no luck.  Please help if you can.

Hi there, my daughter has her hp pavilion 750 uk desktop PC, connected to the internet via usb, she has a ethernet to usb adapter.
The PC has a HP 5187-5208 56K PCI MODEM  (LITE-ON D-1156I#/A1A 56K PCI MODEM), is this suitable for broadband?? Can I just plug the cable from the virgin modem into it??

If not I have a KNE120TX Fast EtheRx 10/100 PCI Fast Ethernet Adapter. Would this be suitable for broadband.

Can I also ask:- The mother BOARD as well as the parallel and serial and USB ports ETC...has a socket with ethernet printed NEXT to it...I assume that this is for connecting to a network and NOT any good for broadband, am I correct?

Many thanks

Steve
Quote from: moonrakermagpie on November 24, 2009, 06:08:43 PM

1.  hp pavilion 750 uk desktop PC, connected to the internet via usb, she has a ethernet to usb adapter.
2.  The PC has a HP 5187-5208 56K PCI MODEM  (LITE-ON D-1156I#/A1A 56K PCI MODEM), is this suitable for broadband?? Can I just plug the cable from the virgin modem into it??
3.  If not I have a KNE120TX Fast EtheRx 10/100 PCI Fast Ethernet Adapter. Would this be suitable for broadband.
4.  ...has a socket with ethernet printed next to it...I assume that this is for connecting to a network and NOT any good for broadband, am I correct?...

1.  Get rid of it.  Not necessary.
2.  NO.  That's for dial-up only.
3.  Yes.  But you don't need it.
4.  Incorrect, broadband is a network.  That's the one you want.  Your broadband modem has an ethernet connector.  Notice it's wider than the telephone connector.

Would the Kingston KNE120TX Fast EtheRx 10/100 PCI Fast Ethernet Adapter not be faster than the one on the mother board

No, it would not.  It's the same speed.

...
1.  I have been involved in R&D using glass and carbon fibre, when parts are cured, they are then bonded with high tech adhesives - it is done in clean room conditions,  prep and degreasing and curing cycles can mean the difference between a lifelong joint or failure.
2.  If bit is too big it could destroy a nearby copper trace on one of the many layers.
I could use a device to measure the hoops and use the right one
3.  Although there is always the risk of damage to the board, all be it small.

Hi
I am going to buy a laptop and don't know which one i should get,

core 2 duo 8700 (3MB cache/2.53GHz/1066Mhz FSB)
or
i7-720QM Quad Core PROCESSOR 1.6GHz (2.8GHz Turbo MODE, 6MB Cache) ??

How does the speed work? is it 2 x 2.53 = 5.06 and 4 x 1.6 = 6.4??

I use laptop for some gaming and 3d animation. I know i should get a DESKTOP instead but its mainly for school so..
plz help!


http://configure.dell.com/dellstore/config.aspx?oc=nsx13_f_1e&c=ca&l=en&s=dhs&cs=cadhs1
http://configure.dell.com/dellstore/config.aspx?oc=ns153cf_f_1e&c=ca&l=en&s=dhs&cs=cadhs1GROSS! DELL!
Get an asus.  They have one with an i7 and gtx260m for 1.5k.  Check on newegg.  I cant be bothered to get the link though.  Im trying to look at the deals and its unbelievably slow If you are doing 3d animation then go with the i7......and a realy good laptop cooler!!!wow that was an extremely fast reply! i went out for class and just came back! thx
how exactly do the speeds scale up?
when it says 2.55 ghz for the dual core do they mean that speed for two cores or for each?? what about the turbo mode on the i7, is it 2.8 for a single core or 2.8 for all four together? Quote from: bloodavenger9 on November 25, 2009, 04:49:02 PM

...how exactly do the speeds scale up?
when it says 2.55 ghz for the dual core do they mean that speed for two cores or for each?? what about the turbo mode on the i7, is it 2.8 for a single core or 2.8 for all four together?

when it says 2.55 ghz for the dual core do they mean that speed for two cores or for each?? what about the turbo mode on the i7, is it 2.8 for a single core or 2.8 for all four together?

Hi again guys,

I was looking at UPGRADES, and I think I have chosen.

I would LIKE to ASK you guys to MAKE sure these upgrades are compatible with one another.
I'll post some links.

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103656
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116754
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131406
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104155
http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153114

I already have a hard DRIVE, disc drive, video card, etc.

Thanks

I have a Dell Latitude E6400 and an E-Port replicator all running XP SP3. I am trying to get a LACIE USB 1TB Ext HDD up and running. It installed and seemed to run OK for about 1 hour then THINGS started GOING downhill. Most of the time the computer will not recognize the drive, on these occasions the system locks up when I click on anything, the mouse moves but I get the hourglass symbol. I have to do a hard reboot to get out; control/alt/Del does not work.

If it does recognize the drive I get the write fail error but it continues from there. I can see the drive letter in my computer but if I try to access the drive by storing something on it it tells me to put a disk in the drive.

The things I have tried so far to get it running are;

1) tried it on another computer - works OK
2) Removed the port replicator - Still a problem
3) Contacted Lacie - Not their problem as it works on another computer
4) Update Bios, Chipset and software - still not working
5) Contacted Dell by phone - unable to help
6) Tried different USB ports and devices and all work.
7) Tried to return it for another brand but the sellers says it OK

All I would like to do is get this drive running.Does Lacie USB 1TB Ext HDD get power only from USB or does it have a power adapter?The Lacie drive has it's own seperate plug into the mains power supply. The power supply lights the drive and I can hear it turning also it runs fine on another computer. Quote from: Andrew1001 on November 25, 2009, 05:12:33 PM

The Lacie drive has it's own seperate plug into the mains power supply. The power supply lights the drive and I can hear it turning also it runs fine on another computer.

I was at the Dell site last night and downloaded all of the updates relevant to my Dell. Installed them all.
Rebooted but still have the problem(s)

The question is in the title.  Is this possible?  My old IDE HDD went down.  I mistakenly purchased a SATA HDD.  After some deliberation I decided to buy the adapter cables and go that route.  Installed everything.  Powered up and HDD is not recognized.  There is not a visible SATA control in my BIOS.  What can I do?  Thanks.The SATA/RAID drivers will be available at the MBoard manuf. website.I have downloaded the drivers from the MB website.  I can't get them to integrate into my BIOS.  I burned them to disk and tried to do it that way, but I have not been successful.  I also tried to install the driver during the Windows installation and that did not work either.  I am going crazy here.After a lot of research, I am under the impression that I need a "flash utility"?  It just seems that all of this stuff works from DOS and I have no access to DOS because my old hard drive does not function anymore.  How do I update the bios without being able to get to DOS?  Is it even possible.  I am going to sleep now because I have classes all day tomorrow and will not be able to work on this again until 11:00EST.  Until that time(and after) any and all comments, opinions, and advice is welcomed and greatly appreciated.They don't get "incorporated " into the BIOS...
Very early on in the XP install process at the bottom of the screen you will see a prompt "Press F6 to install third party drivers"///
Press F6 at this point and put in the driver CD...they will install automatically and setup will continue...Does you BIOS contain the following?
BIOS---Main---Integrated PERIPHERALS

OR something like this?
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=bph07110&tmp_track_link=ot_recdoc/c00063254/en_us/bph07110/loc:3&lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us

For BIOS reset:
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?lc=en&dlc=en&cc=us&docname=c00069442***sigh***Okay, I am home and back to work... I tried making the driver cd.  I DL'd the manual for my MOTHER board and read all that I could about updating my BIOS.  I made a cd with the following files on it: fasttxt, txtsetup.oem, readme.txt(these 3 files are what was downloaded from the MB website under "RAID"), FLASH.EXE, AFLASH.EXE, BIOS 1015.003, and VIA 4 in 1 Driver Package Service.

These are the file that I believed the manual SAID could be necessary.

Commando... My BIOS does not have an integrated peripherals section... My BIOS looks just like the first screenshot on the first link that you posted just with different things in the boxes.
System Time
System Date
Language               [English(US)]
Floppy DIskette A   [Not Instlled]

First Channel Device 0       [None]
First Channel Device 1       [None]
Second Channel Device 0  [ASUS     DVD-E6]
Second Channel Device 1  [TSSTcorpCD-R/R]
Third Channel Device 0      [None]
Fourth Channel Device 0   [None

(all of this below is grayed out)
Installed Memory                1536 MB/PC2700
Memory Bank 0                    512 MB/DDR SDRAM
Memory Bank 1                   1024 MB/DDR SDRAM

Core Version                         6.0
BIOS REVISION                    3.15 06/06/2005 Quote from: Beedub245 on November 10, 2009, 10:05:13 PM

...
System Time
System Date
Language               [English(US)]
Floppy DIskette A   [Not Instlled]

First Channel Device 0       [None]
First Channel Device 1       [None]
Second Channel Device 0  [ASUS     DVD-E6]
Second Channel Device 1  [TSSTcorpCD-R/R]
Third Channel Device 0      [None]
Fourth Channel Device 0   [None]

(all of this below is grayed out)
Installed Memory                1536 MB/PC2700
Memory Bank 0                    512 MB/DDR SDRAM
Memory Bank 1                   1024 MB/DDR SDRAM

Core Version                         6.0
BIOS REVISION                    3.15 06/06/2005

They don't get "incorporated " into the BIOS...
Very early on in the XP install process at the bottom of the screen you will see a prompt "Press F6 to install third party drivers"///
Press F6 at this point and put in the driver CD...they will install automatically and setup will continue...