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My Epson Stylus 750 goes into head cleaning mode at switch on. but not every time. Sometimes it is after 3 or 4 switch on's. It is using my inks at a fair rate.
Can this be fixed, I have no sense from Epson. Quote from: Kiteman1502 on January 11, 2010, 01:31:38 PM

I have no sense from Epson.

This product is discontinued

Review Date:  1 Feb 1999

My Epson Stylus 750

I cannot find a printer control panel to turn off auto head cleaning.

i have a suggestion that can tremendously reduce the ink cost component of the Epson printer you have. I won't go into it here as i am not certain you are out of the woods yet with that older printer. But if and when you are if you PM me i will forward my suggestion to you

If you want to know what i will be advising i invite you also to PM me and i will gladly provide the same advice to you.

Is MiTAC X-200/12V 200W ATX Power SUPPLY compatible with hp-l161nf3p?The 20-pin main connector pin-out on each of those power supplies is the same, so they are compatible in the sense that they can safely deliver power to the computer, however, they are differenet "FORM factors" and are designed to FIT into different cases.  The MiTEC power supply will not fit into a case that SUPPORTS the hp-l161nf3p..

What does "The DNS SERVER isn't responding" mean?Most likely it means that your dns server is down and you'll have to use another dns server, temporarily, for name RESOLUTION.  If you are on a LAN managed by an administator then there's probably a dns server on your network somewhere, but if you are at home, it will be a little easier to fix.

When you type an address into your browser, such as www. google.com, that name must be resolved to its IP address, so your computer can find google.  The browser doesn't understand only the names you type, they have to be matched up with their respective ip address and that's what the dns server does.  If the web site you're looking for is not currently in your computer's DNS cache, and it is not in the "hosts" file, it will have to use the dns server, that is, if you want to get to the web site by TYPING the name.  You can get to the website if you type the ip address into the browser, but knowbody like to memorize hundreds of those, that's why there's dns.  If you open a command prompt and type:  ping www.WEBSITENAME.com, it will respond back with the ip address of that website... You can then ENTER that ip address into your browser if you need to get to the web site, right away..

If you want to resolve the issue immediately, you'll have to find another dns server in your area.  Google "dns servers" and add to it the CITY you're located in.

When you have found some dns servers in your area, post back and I'll tell you what to do next..   Or, you could just wait a little while and the dns server may just come back up...

On the otherhand, in some cases, the dsn server is the router/gateway of the computer you're using.  Your problem may indicate a problem with your gateway/router..
sorry, using the ping command to get the ip address would not work for the purpose I specified, the ping command would need a dns server....  my bad

But you can still find other dns servers in your area

New system. 2 wks old.

AMD Phenom triple core BE 720
Radeon 5850 BE
MSI 790GX-G65  motheboard
Win 7 64 bit

Just tried out 'amd overdrive' last night. Tried to move up one slot in the oc (15 increments). Hit apply. Busy signal for fifteen minutes. Closed program. Ran Cpu-z and the clock settings were the same, so nothing even happened.

3 hours later, I shut computer off for the night. Did not shut down, though screen went off. Tried to reboot, system CAME on, no screen. F8 does nothing. Cannot get into BIOS.

Seems I have to reset the mb? There are 3 switches: power, reset, and clr cmos.

http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/3904/pict0018t.jpg

Do I hit reset BUTTON, with power off, or with power on? Or do I hit clr cmos with power off? What's the difference between clr cmos and reset?

I can't believe that AMD puts this 'overdrive' software on the front page RIGHT next to essentials like Catalyst suite, bragging about how safe it is, and how easy it is. Everything I read now is about how it doesn't work properly. Overclocking can be dangerous and damage hardware.  It's possible that you cooked something in your attempt.

I am installing Xp on a micron pc millenia for my kid to use for games.  I had to put a new drive in and when it get to the part where it will reboot it starts all over again!  What am i doing wrong?Without more information I would onlyu GUESS.
Do you have any a floppy boot disk? Or can you make one on another PC?
Ypu could try to boot is with a gloppy and run some diagnosstics on the hard drive.
Did the new drive come with INSTALL and diagnostic software?



It keeps booting to the CD. Do you see a message that says "press any key to boot to CD" at startup? If so dont press any keys. You may need to set your boot order in BIOS to boot to the hard drive first. Instead of making us guess, please tell us EXACTLY what you are doing, how you are doing it, and what the result is.I am installing WINDOWS Xp Home Edition on a Micron Pc Millenia.  Windows setup starts.  Choose install on partition1, NTFS quick format.  It goes through the installation and when it gets to the countdown to restarting the pc to finish the installation, it restarts and instead of going to drive it restarts the whole process over again from cd.  I'm not doing anything wrong.  I've installed Xp on alot of dells and hp but never a Micron.  Theres something i got to change in setup utility but i've never done anything like thisHaven't used a Micron in years, but I used to own a bunch of them. Nothing unusual with OS installation with Microns. If you get through the installation and then the system reboots to the cd, try removing the cd just before the countdown finishes.I tried that and It said "A disk read error occurred"  press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart.  Is it not wanting to read my drive.  How do i set up my Bios on a Micron?  I know how to get there but i don't know what first boot device and second and third should be.  It takes a single IDE drive, a floppy, cd-rom, and a seperate dvd-rom.  If that matters.Well, then I guess the install process hasn't completed. Boot order is the same on all systems. If you have a floopy and you think you're going to want to boot from it, it's first, optical drive next (cd or dvd), hd next. But it really doesn't matter unless you want to boot to something other than the HD. If the system does not see bootable media in the floppy or cd it will then go to the hd. Some people leave the hd first because it speeds the boot time a LITTLE and move the others ahead of it if and when they need to boot to something other than the hd.should the drive be master or slave? Quote from: wilsonmg8181 on January 14, 2010, 05:43:08 PM

should the drive be master or slave?

would it matter what rom i install windows from?  B4 it wasn't even showing the dvd rom so i was using the cd rom but i just stuck the disk in the dvd and it started the setup process?

It said "A disk read error occurred"  press Ctrl+Alt+Del to restart.  Is it not wanting to read my drive. 

Hey. I need help fixing my external passport hard drive.

My hard drive was functioning normally until it was jerked off the table and knocked against something when the laptop was suddenly moved. I noticed a dent on the outside case.

Afterwards, the hard drive icon wouldn't appear in My Computer and I get a "device not RECOGNISED" message. I have tried plugging it into a desktop computer with no success. I am fairly sure it is a hard ware, not software problem.

Upon plug in, the hard drive spins with a sort of grinding/clicking SOUND whenever I press my ear against it, then stops and falls silent. The light still stays on.

I'm guessing that the heads have become jarred. Is their anyway that I can fix it?
I don't have warranty on it. There is absolutely no way you can fix this drive. It is dead, and the data on it has gone to heaven.If you really need the data...it will cost you a bit...First look if the disk is not damaged.
Look if you can take it safely out of the drive and transplant it to a second drive(SAME MAKE and type !!!).
THIS HAS to be done by SOMONE who knows what he is doing...
AND in a lot of cases it can NOT be done,it depends on the make\type....+ sometimes you weaken the "new" drive and you may only be able to transfer data once or twice before it gives problems too....So it can get quite costly...

          KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING !!!
          Only try it if you REALLY REALLY REALLY NEED the data !!!
                 
                                           Good luck !!! Quote from: abcdefg... on January 18, 2010, 12:12:48 AM

I noticed a dent on the outside case.

If it landed hard enough to dent a metal case there's not much hope for the hard drive.

Hi All
 On the internet the other day and the screen just went completely white rebooted and now just have a black screen nothing appears to work.

The fan is running and the c.d drawer is working and spinning up and the USUAL lights on the keyboard are on but that’s it.
I have tried external monitor but it’s not signalling the monitor to start.
Have tried booting without the H/drive and removed the two ram sticks and booting with ONE at a time made no difference.

Got a BAD feeling about this any help or suggestions would be MUCH appreciated.

My laptop is a Compaq Presario, amd turion *2, vista home.
When you plug in the external monitor are you using the Fn key to swap over to external monitor? How are you connecting the external monitor? The laptop screen when you say it's black is it black as in no power at all or is there a grey sheen to it meaning it is powered up?Hi Mulreay
Yes I tried the Fn key I am plugging in my P.C monitor directly into the external display port on the laptop.
The laptop screen is not powering up at all.

Bad feeling is getting worse, managed to pull my important stuff off the H/drive using a caddy so the H/drive looks O.K

The machine is just out of warranty, just my luck.
Yeah it's a tough one because with any display your stuck as to how much troubleshooting can be done in device MANAGER. Sounds to me like your display adapter has gone. Sorry I'm stuck as to what I can suggest other than taking it to your local computer store and seeing what they think.
Somebody else may come along with some more advice.
Sorry I could not help you further.

Hi all, I was considering buying a second 8800gt to SLI in my I7 920 and came across a few CARDS that got me thinking. One of them is a ATI 5670. I compared my 8800gt 512 to it and here is a comparison

http://www.gpureview.com/show_cards.php?card1=544&card2=623#

I then started to read benchmarks of it versus a 9800gt 512 (basically same as a 8800gt 512) and it came in significantly under the 9800gt 512. Given the faster memory ( like double) and core clock, but lower texture units and RASTER operators, why is this card so much slower? Is It the GPU?Not sure where your reading those benchmarks from but their off by QUITE a bit...

Hello people, "Read this to find out what you need to ask in the SHOP"

Do not buy a I-Mac, if your in the UK, and if you can not wait, untill January 27, 2010, ask to see if it can read disks with out scratching it all over, look at the DISK after, i did this in PC World and John Lewis "all of the I-Macs" sabotaged the disks, i guess it must be something to do with the eject thing that holds the disk as you pull it out , so ask to see the I-Mac out of the box or could get a disk killer.

This could be all over the World, It's not the shop, it's Apples faulty manufacturing.

The TWO shop's i tired (John Lewis and PC World) are the best in the UK for buying computers, PC World told me that there are going to talk to the other shops about this problem, and SEND all of the I-Mac's back to apple.

John Lewis sell's computer's and all other thing's, but they told me that it was a ONE off, so they are not going to talk to other shops about this problem, and just send the one back to apple.

Just tell other people out there to look at the I-Mac's before buying or after buying it because i dont want other people to have to deal with these issues.

this link will describe these issues in better detail


Click "Here" to Go to my site to find out more about the issues I had
 

when TURNING monitor on the words "burn in" appear then alternating colours show on screen.
had deleted some "users" from comp.last night, then did virus check and reboot. now this morning monitor DOESNT want to workDo you have another monitor you can plug in?  If it works then it's fair to SAY there's a problem with your current monitor, if it doesn't WORK then the problem is with the COMPUTER, and we can go from there.


Or, could  you plug the monitor into another computer?

I spilt a vey smal amount of soda on my laptop keyboard lasnight, i took it apart cleaned it the best i could..wasnt much to clean. Restarted my comp and it worked fine for about 2 MINUTES then it suddenly acted weirdly, all my keys work  fine except my space bar and enter key, the enter key when i press it proudces a bunch of weird characters when i press it.

example of what comes up when i press the enter key..." b b b b b b b b b b b b b b b "

Not sure whats causing this or waht to do about it, any solutions?Strange but obviously drink related. When you cleaned it did you warm the surface with anything like a hair dryer? Also when you say cleaned it did you just wipe the surface?
The residue could be causing a SHORT circuit.just removed the keys and cleaned it with a dry cloth, i sense soem of the drink may have gottn under the steel piece that holds the space and enter key, how abouts would i go to clean or fix this?It depends on how comfortable you are dismantling the keyboard. Me personally I would strip it as far down as I could and clean each piece with a slightly damp cloth to remove sugars etc. Then dry immediately with a lint free cloth. Make sure all PIECES are dry and clean (to the touch) and then rebuild.If it's gotten beneath the keys and contacted the circuitry beneath there is very little chance to save the keyboard. Quote from: BC_Programmer on January 15, 2010, 07:17:44 PM

If it's gotten beneath the keys and contacted the circuitry beneath there is very little chance to save the keyboard.

    Split drink, enter and space bar
      Is is open tonight? Fee admission?

Keyboards are cheap like soda.  Most soft drinks(colas anyway) are acidic, just replace the keyboard.

Why is it that no "I have a problem with my laptop keyboard" thread is complete without a "keyboards cost like $8" post from somebody who didn't notice the word "laptop" in the first post?

It is possible to remove the keyboard and clean it.

Yeah, is there any reason they can't just pull the keyboard, soak it in warm water (bucket or bath tub) for awhile (how long - hours?), pour/shake the water out, air dry it with a "fan" for a couple of days and then plug it back in?

I understand desktop keyboards are cleaned this way as long as there isn't a built-in speaker (paper/cardboard speaker cone).

Anyone have any experience with this?

Hi,

I have a Dell XPS M1710 laptop (specs at the bottom) which was running the Windows 7 RC. I had no issues with it at all until I was watching a DVD one day when the screen pixelated a little like the DVD was skipping and then went blank. The laptop was still powered on but I had no control except to turn it off. When I turned it back on all I got was a white/grey screen. It wont't start POST and I'm not sure if the HDD is spinning or not since it was always pretty quiet. I had Bluetooth, num lock, power and CHARGING lights. HDD access light comes on for a second initially but then it goes out and stays out so I'd guess that's just an LED test.

I've tried re-seating the power cord and battery with no change. The laptop will turn on with the cord connected and the battery removed and vice-versa. I tried connecting to an external screen to see if the screen was the problem but it appears that there is no output signal from the laptop.

Then I tried re-seating the RAM which changed things a little. I now have a blank black screen instead of white/grey. I have no bluetooth light and I have flashing CAPS lock and scroll lock lights. Also I can't turn it off with the power button once I turn it on now but it powers itself down about 30 secs after I turn it on. Everything else is the same.

Finally I tried re-seating the HDD which changed nothing.

I'm sans warranty obviously!

Any HELP you can give is much appreciated. Thank you.

Specs:
Processor:  Intel Core Duo T2600 (2.16 GHz)
Memory:  2GB 667MHz - 2 DIMM Slots (2 x 1GB)  (Max Ram 4GB)
Hard Drive:  100GB capacity at a speed of 7200 RPM
Graphics Card:  NVIDIA GeForce Go 7900 GTX  with 512MB DDR memory
Screen:  WUXGA Truelife (1920 x 1200)
Optical Drive:  8x CD/DVD burner (DVD+/-RW/+R) with Dual-Layer
OS:  Microsoft MCE 2005
Wireless Card:  Intel 3945 (802.11b/g)
Battery:  9-cell lithium ion recharegable battery
Ports / Slots: 5-in-1 Memory Card Reader, DVI-D, VGA video output, S-Video, IEEE 1394 (Firewire), 6 USB 2.0, Express Card slot, Modem, Ethernet/LAN, Microphone in, Headphone outDo you have the DVD with the Win7 RC on it ? ?

Has the RC started timing out on you yet ? ?
I forget when it was scheduled to start doing this...but i thought it wasn't til February...

Win7 Startup Repair...Yeah I have the CD but I can't run it I'm afraid. Firstly I can't open the DVD drive unless I just force it open and even if I got it in the computer won't boot as far as the BIOS setup menu so I couldn't run it anyway. Quote from: Irisheyes on January 05, 2010, 01:59:30 PM

Yeah I have the CD but I can't run it I'm afraid. Firstly I can't open the DVD drive unless I just force it open and even if I got it in the computer won't boot as far as the BIOS setup menu so I couldn't run it anyway.

Here we GO again, another silly question but my minds just GONE blank.
If l buy a NEW large enough hard drive and divide it into say three partitions, can l then put XP, Vista, and W7 into their own partition and then boot up whichever system l choose?
(l don't really want to lose XP as l like it too much, but it would be good to have the other two OS's as well, to mess around with).
Thanks Yes. Be sure to install them in that order - XP, then Vista, then 7 (always oldest first).Yes.
My current system is setup this way...
There are a few different approaches to doing this so when you get close let me know and i'll write out the PRO's and Con's of those choices...Thank you both Allan and Patio. Your replies are always welcome.
At the moment it's just a THOUGHT.
My current drive is a massive 30gb (phew, l just can't cope with all this storage!) But......., all that is on there is the XP OS, and certain programs. These programs, and everything else, is backed up on another external drive, so my setup suits me fine at the moment
However, l think my HD might be on it's last legs hence my original question.
Now l know it's possible, l'll go away and think about it.
Will return as and when l get a new drive.
Thanks againGood deal...
This is not cast in stone...just my personal experience...
But min partition sizes for each OS:

XP= 25G...40 comfort zone...

Vista= 30G...40/50 comfort zone

Win7= Same as Vista.

I have ADT AUDIO drivers and need some help.

In the settings for the ADT drivers  I make sure all the audio sliders are all the way up. And then I can use my speakers to turn up or down the Volume.

Now this is what I don't understand.
If I have say my CD slider all  the way up and I turn my speakers all the way up but I have no CD playing I don't even here any HISS from my speakers.

I get this this is because I am not playing any CDs or music ok.
But if I have my Line In slider tuned all the way up and my speakers TURNED all the way up but I have no sound coming into my Line In  I here a HISS???

Is this because it here the Dead Air from the Line In  but there is no Dead Air from the CD slider???

While of course within the parameters of decency and legality there are no limits on the questions that can be posed on the CH forums. I am wondering what POSSIBLE problem issue you are trying to resolve with your question? I would be interested to know if under CIRCUMSTANCES of actually playing/listening/recording audio are you actually having any issues?truenorth

Acer Aspire 5720Z V1.19
Windows Vista Home Premium Service Pack 2 (build 6002)
1.60 GIGAHERTZ Intel Pentium Dual
WDC WD1600BEVS-22RST0 [Hard drive] (160.04 GB)
2038 Megabytes Usable INSTALLED Memory
Realtek High Definition Audio V. 6.0.1.5443

Hello everyone:

 This is my question, How can I monitor input sound in my laptop?
I had Google the same question for a while and apparently Vista disable this option on laptops.

I had found INFORMATION of how to do it on the SigmaTel High Definition Audio, but not on the Realtek HD Audio...

If someone had found the solution, please let me know.


Monitor as in record?

And does your Sound Icon appear in the system tray(there have been several instanses of it not appearing)?Yes, the sound Icon is show on the tool bar, but the problem is not there. I have another PC that have the same driver Realtek HD but since it didn't come with and inboard mic like my laptop, it has the 2 option of input or mic volume. In my laptop there is only one option. Yes monitoring the sound while recording.... I can do that with my desktop, but not with my laptop... Some cards support this feature, some don't.  I would suggest contacting the manufacturer of the laptop to find out if yours does.What specifically is the sound device that the recorded sound is coming from? It might be POSSIBLE to physically set up an additional line out/microphone/headset configuration that will ALLOW monitoring from the source rather than the computer.truenorth

I went to HOME Depot  and got a Clicker for the Lamp I have.

What I meen is you plug the Lamp into this Box and plug the Box into the Wall Outlet.

And you use this Remote to turn on and off the Lamp.

But say I want   a Box for a lot of diferant things and Lamps I know I can just get a lot of them.

But then you have all these Remotes that come with eatch Box.

Do they not sell ONE Remote that comes with a lot of and say Five Box's to plug diferant things into like One Box for a Lamp and in the next room One Box for something els and so on and just have one Remote with diferant Buttons on it???this is a computer HELP forum, not a "remote control design and how it fits into your use of clickers" forum.It's called Home Automation. It can get very expensive.Check into the X-10 system.  It's available from many sources.  It has modules that plug into ELECTRICAL OUTLETS and lamps plug into the module.  A single remote can control many modules.  I used to have a bunch of that stuff and mainly used it to turn Christmas lights on and off.  For timing functions you can program it with a PC.

Plus you can control other things besides lights with the system.

This MB has SATA connectors.  It ALSO has a single IED HDD connected (with the system info on it) plus 2 IED RW CDs and a Floppy.  I probably do not have the original Windows XP (the current operating system) disk.  (The system was migrated over time from about Windows 98 or maybe even 95 ... and I wouldn't want to go back that far ever!)

My problem, the system does not recognize the WD SATA drive, in either of the two SATA ports.    I SUGGEST you visit http://support.asus.com/download/download.aspx?model=A8V%20Deluxe&os=17&SLanguage=en-us and download the manual for your motherboard.  Then, SEARCH it for info on installing a SATA HD.ASUS is where you will find the SATA drivers also...The Manual is not much help.  The problem turned out to be that a SATA-II drive -- that is, a more modern one -- is not fully compatible with the first-generation SATA-I controller on the motherboard.  The solution turned out to be SIMPLE, once discovered (an exhausting process!), as described on the Western Digital Knowledge Base FAQ Answer ID 1337: adding a simple jumper on the new SATA-II drive.  Once that was done, the system booted flawlessly!  (The Manual and related A8V CD did tell me that the controller was based upon the VT8237 chipset, one of the first-generation ones identified by Western Digital.)

it was fine a few day's ago but then it started doing this. i've already went into the monitor settings and some people say to change the refresh rate but i don't have a refresh rate OPTION. all i have is default monitor. i need a step by step instruction on how to fix this. it's driving me crazy!!!Let's start with this - Download and install the latest driver for your video card. ALSO, if there is a driver for your display, install that.

You said this just started - what happened just before that - new hw, sw, virus, error, etc?how do i figure out what video card i have? i installed a game right before that and uninstalled it because i didn't have the right video card so i just said the heck with it.it's also seemed to slow my comp down a bit. i used to be able to click and go but now it takes it a while to do anything. i think maybe when i uninstalled farcry2 i might have uninstalled SOMETHING else.Look in Device Manager Quote from: jaxstarke on January 14, 2010, 08:50:54 AM

how do i figure out what video card i have?

I just PUT together a new system and while Windows is trying to install my system shuts down instantly during the process. The computer shuts down in the same spot when the screen is showing this option: "press enter to continue; Press R to repair; Exit".

Specs:
Antec 380W PSU
Abit IP35-E Mobo
Intel E5200 CPU
PNY 8600GT
Crucial DDR2-800 4-4-4-12 (1G*4)
IBM 60G IDE hard drive IC35L060AVER07-0
Samsung SATA DVD SH-S203

All parts are from a working computer except the hard drive and the CPU. I know the HD is old but I just want to use some old parts to build a HTPC. Here are some facts:

1. No problem enter CMOS. Start-up screen tests ram ok. The hard drive can be recognized.
2. The hard drive was connected using 40-pin IDE cable. Tested using different jump setting (Master, Cable_select), same problem.
3. The hard drive was used in an enclosure with no problem.
4. I have enabled SATA controller in bios to support the optical drive. But there is no option to select the mode (ACHI, RAID, or IDE).

     You may want to try it with only 1 stik of RAM...after the install the additional RAM can be added.
The PSU is a bit on the short side also...how old is it ?

The only other reason i've seen this is a dirty CD.Thanks for the reply. It was caused by the mobo bios. It falsely SHOWS the CPU temperature to be 98 degree constantly. After I disabled the automatic shut down, everything works FINE.

Quote from: patio on January 17, 2010, 06:57:33 AM

You may want to try it with only 1 stik of RAM...after the install the additional RAM can be added.
The PSU is a bit on the short side also...how old is it ?

The only other reason i've seen this is a dirty CD.

Hello there

I'm currently having a bit of a problem with my wife's PC. It seems to have developed an interment fault where the machine will switch itself off without warning. This can happen while loading WINDOWS, or while she is acutally in windows working on her PC.

I have been in the CMOS and have loaded the 'fail safe' configuration, which seemed to work for a while. I've also run a full diagnostic on the HDD, which came up clean. I've also installed a program called 'speed fan' which i've been able to monitor the temperature of the pc and the fan speed, and noted that the PC just shuts down when it feels like it.

Has anyone else out there experienced this fault, and if so, do you have any suggestions on what I can try, before I consider putting an axe through the bloody thing?? 


any thoughts (no MATTER how imaginative) would be beneficial right now.


Thank you

JamesBoot to safe mode and see if the same thing happens. I'm GUESSING a faulty power supply though.What kind of temps is speedfan reporting ? ?well that is the thing - the temps when it decides to shut down are not consistient. Some times they are into the high 60s/low 70s, but then I've seen it shut down at 43 degrees....Hi
I had a similar thing on an old laptop seemed just like an overheat problem.
As a last resort I reinstalled the o/s and it was O.K afterwards, never did work out why.

The big danger is it shuts down half WAY through the install.
USE your hard drive on other unit....if it's run properly,one of your hardware has a problem maybe its your RAM or your CPUwhy dont u use safe mode 2 bring back the good working on the computer on the past month or past days....

my compaq desktop will not allow me to load past the splash screen. issue occured this morning after reboot. computer was on standy through the night and when awoke this morning, it was laggy so retried. when rebooted the computer loaded very quickly to splash screen. WAITED for about a minute. nothing. pressed f2 and F10 and still nothing. manually powered down computer and rebooted,  this time holding down esc key to access bios. nothing. it just instantly loaded to bios and was stuck there. i than powered down and unplugged hard drive and rebooted. instantly rebooted to splash screen. no errors about hardware unplugged or not found. no black screen with cursor blinking. nothing. just the splash screen. now i have been asking around and been suggested it may be bad ram, bios issues. power issues. overheating?? i personnaly have tried to rule out as much as POSSIBLE. the power issue doesnt seem to be, im not recieving any errors  about power and the light on the back of the tower is solid green. overheating i have tried to rule out based on all fans running smooth.. theres no loose cables anywhere. im down to ram or bios. im not a professional and would greatly apperciate any suggestions or ideas. thanks ahead of time. mostlydo, Seeing as you are not intimidated to enter the interior of your computer and to lessen  the possibility of a RAM issue i suggest the following. Remove all of the RAM modules from the computer and then one at a time reinstall them. If the 1st one you reinstall does NOT make a difference remove it and proceed to the next RAM stick. You might ALSO try them in different slots during this process. Given the unlikely event that they are all bad this should alter your situation (if the problem is RAM RELATED).truenorthi didnt have to go that far for some reason i returned home and its working fine, i think it was more or less a overheating issue or an issue from standy to up and running, 2 days and it has had no issues. thanks for the support. Gremlins.

So I have been trying to crawl through putting an old computer back together (I prefer working on cars, but it's too cold outside.).  I have been getting some help from the great folks here, but I'm not articulating very good.  So here is the rub:

I put in a new MB that was as close to the original that I could find.  The CPU and DDR sticks were the same and it is from the same Manufacturer (MSI).  I put it all together and followed the instructions on this site for installing the MB.  I used the manual from MSI for the parts that I could.  When I turn it on it just beeps about every three seconds for ever (IE it never stops).  I was told to use the BIOS beep chart for my MB.  I think that it is an Award BIOS (whatever that is).  It only says for *repeated beeps - DRAM error.  So does that mean to replace the DDR?  I have an AMD X2 processor.  I TRIED removing one of the sticks, and nothing.  Switched, and nothing.  Will it post if I only use one stick?  I bought a new one, but I don't WANT to open it if I'll need both. 

Any suggestions would be great.  I mean ANY suggestions.  Thanks guys and gals.another question I have, how do I know if it is a short or long beep.  It also says *repeated short beeps - Power error.  Would I be better off to start with a different power supply?

Thanks.It sounds like the CPU can not find the memory. But I am not sure of that.
Do you see anything on the monitor?
Make sure you have the memory stick all the way in the slot.
Yes, try one stick them the other,
Check and see if you bent pins on the CPU.
Did you force it in the wrong way?
Make sure the video card is all the way in.
Try it with no floppy, ho hard drive, no CD drive.
Sometimes a bad drive cable can bring down the whole system.
Check the mounts of the motherboard.
Be careful  about shots to the chassis.
Also, please provide more detail about the motherboard and the CPU. Like make and model number. Is the CPU an Intel? AND?  A 64 bit?CPU = AMD Athlon™ 64 3400+ Processor (with AMD 64 technology)1
(512KB L2 CACHE, 2.20GHz, 1600MHz system bus)

Motherboard = MSI MS-7184 MOTHERBOARD AMETHYSTM GL6E.  Has integrated video.

I tried unhooking everything possible already.  Any thoughts?

ThanksIs this the old RAM or did you purchase new ? ?

If new what speed is it ? ?It is the old RAM.  I bought a new stick (could only find one locally), but wanted to try the old FIRST.  The old ones are 512K PC3200 Samsung.  Would putting just the new one in make any difference?It's certainly worth a try.okay, so I finally got the new RAM.  I carefully installed it, and it still just beeps.  Any more ideas?

Thanks.Did you the board come with the processor and heatsink pre-installed or did you do it yourself?Bought just th MB.  I was very careful when I installed the CPU and fan.  Should I take the CPU back out and reinstall it, or might this be a Power supply issue?  Thanks.Did you remove the old thermal paste and reapply a new layer?
Are you sure that all of your standoffs are in place?Is the RAM listed on the Approved Vendor List in the MBoard manual ? ?

This is sometimes critical on newer MBoards with factory OC'd features...

Good evening all,

I have a notebook which was purchased 2.5 years ago.
The brand-name is TwinHead.
Some of its configuration of computer hardware include
Sempron CPU, 512MB (SO-DIMM), 80GB HDD.

====Here is what's happened to my notebook====

I was doing my school assignment last night, and
I was running MS Word, Adobe illustrator, Photoshop and Dreaweaver at the same time.
When I tried to save a word document, my notebook turned off.
It all happened out of a sudden.

I tried to press the "Power" button to turn on the notebook,
but the system didn't boot up. I couldn't see ANYTHING appear on screen either.
I could just see the "Wireless signal" turn on when I pressed the wireless connection short-cut button.

Is it possible that the problem is caused by damaged or burnt-out RAM?
If yes, then how to find out the exact type of memory for my notebook.
I have CHECKED out that my notebook is running SO-DIMM-typed  memory,
but I am not sure whether it is DDR or DDR2,
PC-3200, PC-4200 or other memory modules of higher clock speeds.

Could you help me please?

Thanks a lot.

Kitty.Clik Here...

This is Crucial's online scanner...it will tell you exactly what RAM that system takes...you don't have to buy from them but it's a very useful tool. Quote from: patio on JANUARY 20, 2010, 08:53:42 AM

Clik Here...

This is Crucial's online scanner...it will tell you exactly what RAM that system takes...you don't have to buy from them but it's a very useful tool.

Does it load Windows at all ? ?
That hard drive may be failing...

Sounds more like the HDD to me....
Do you know what brand of HDD is in that laptop ?

I'd check the HDD 1st...the absence of the activity light leads me to this...

Hello everyone.  i have a problem with my monitor not displaying anything or something similar.   Last NIGHT it was working just fine...but then i left it to my little brother to use and the next thing i noticed when i woke up, the computer wasn't turning on.  everything sounded like it works...like it's gonna boot...but it doesn't.  it appears that the monitor doesn't get anything, no signal from the computer.  I don't even see the logo display of my motherboard.  so i thought it might be a video card problem and REPLACED it with one of my buddy's.  it didn't solve the problem.  the other possible sources are the CPU or the Motherboard..i thought.  is there any way to check for sure before i spend lots of money on new ones just to FIND out that it's neither?
I was reading through the topic, and someone MENTIONED about power supply.  can someone tell me the importance of the power supply and that it might be related to the problem as well?  besides the fact that it's required to power up each hardware.
I would really like to get my computer back up and running as SOON as possible.
Thanks. OK this may sound stupid but it might help- Since your liitle bro was one it you might want to check and make sure you power and input cables for you monitor is plugged in. There is a possibility that it could be you power supply.it might be the gpu from the sound of itHello Lee07133.

   Try taking the Memory out and dusting the MoBo, put it back in and that should sulve the problem..EMSUR Thank you.. I had similar problem (after messing with ram) read this post, said Hmmm... I messed with the ram..took it out dusted it off as well as sockets and it worked! I was able to see my bios...now if only we had the password..it's a dell, Can I clear the CMOS by taking out the battery?

Hi everyone,

My old DESKTOP supports DDR type Ram and has PCI type expansion slot. I am trying to upgrade the graphics for gaming.
Can I install a VIDEO card that has DDR2 type memory?

Thanks
RickYes...
The vid card memory does not need to match the ONBOARD memory...

PS You will need to determine what type PCI slots you have available...PCI-E is DIFFERENT than PCI.Thanks

I already checked, I know it's PCI not PCI-E.
You may not find a card for PCI with DDR2 then...

Please help Hp PRINTER 970cxi has flassing LEFT light that will not clear. New cartriges have been installed. And contacts cleaned
1) You need to provide more details before anyone can help
2) You might want to change you're user name before your inbox is flooded with SPAM. Spammers use bots that scour the WEB (including forums) for EMAIL addresses.

It just KEEPS spitting out the paper  How can I FIX it?I hate to sound rude, but that is perhaps the least AMOUNT of information ever provided in a post or question.

What PRINTER?  What SOFTWARE?  What else is it doing?  Any more information would be helpful. Quote from: rthompson80819 on January 21, 2010, 03:32:34 PM

I hate to sound rude, but that is perhaps the least amount of information ever provided in a post or question.

I'm putting a GPU in my Dell VOSTRO 220s, and was WONDERING if i'm going to have to buy a "Low PROFILE Ready" card. The case is considered a slim case, so I wasn't sure if that means i'm restricted to low profile or not. Quote from: t_blake07 on January 20, 2010, 05:03:08 PM

I'm putting a GPU in my Dell Vostro 220s, and was wondering if i'm going to have to buy a "Low Profile Ready" card. The case is considered a slim case, so I wasn't sure if that means i'm restricted to low profile or not.

Hey everyone,

I'm having a strange issue with my PC and I'm not 100% sure what the cause could be. I press the power button on my PC and it turns on, there is usually a green light on the front of my case when it runs normally, however, this light is red and the PC will never boot up, no loading screen or anything. The LED's come on and all the fans and power supply come on like normal, but nothing shows on the monitor. If I press the power button again the light will turn green and it will boot up normally and it works just fine. When I go to turn it off (start, shut down) it shuts Windows down and my monitor goes blank but the tower is still running. All the LED's are still on and it never shuts down. Even if I hold the power button in for awhile it still won't power off. The only way I can turn it off is to flip the switch on my power strip. I'm just curious as to what can cause this... my 2 guesses are either the power button is going bad or possibly a motherboard issue?

My PC specs are:

2.8 GHz P4
4GB RAM
Nvidia video card (can't remember the model off the top of my head)
Windows XP SP3
My case is an Xplorer case. I can't remember who makes it.
Abit IL9 motherboard (I think it's dicontinued)

I haven't made any HARDWARE changes to it recently and the only software change I have made is I downloaded the newest version of itunes because I got an IPOD TOUCH. It was after I downloaded the new itunes that this started to be an issue. Any suggestions? Thanks for any help in advance!

JonathanLet's try ELIMINATING the obvious ones...
DLoad the drive manuf. diagnostics from the HDD manuf. website...
Follow the instructions on creating a bootable CD...
Run the long test and report back with the results.Thanks Patio. I'll try that and post the results.Are you running the power management software?Not that I'm aware of.Check to see if you are, you can FIND that in the control panel.  Desktop computers really don't get along with any power management, it's just not built into the hardware.  Power management is only useful and effective on a laptop.  It would also explain the trouble you are having. 

At least it's the first thing that comes to my mind.Thanks Quantos. I'll definitely check that out as well.

I noticed that Windows XP SP3 recognizes my 8GB flash drive in Control/System/Advanced/Performance/Advanced/Virtual Memory.  Can I put pagefile.sys on the flash drive?  And will my system speed increase, since it doesn't have to do as much hard drive IO?

jim
It would probably run slower...
To test this travel to PORTABLE apps.com and grab any portable app you like...
Load it from flash and SEE how slow it is.

The myths about moving the swapfile around to speed up performance are from the old FAT16/32 days and are pretty much no longer relevant... Quote from: jimnelson on January 21, 2010, 05:27:38 PM

I noticed that Windows XP SP3 recognizes my 8GB flash drive in Control/System/Advanced/Performance/Advanced/Virtual Memory.  Can I put pagefile.sys on the flash drive?  And will my system speed increase, since it doesn't have to do as much hard drive IO?

Memory
Number of Memory Slots    4×240pin
Memory Standard    DDR2 533/667/800/1066(1066 by AM2+/AM3 CPU)
Maximum Memory Supported    16GB
CHANNEL Supported    Dual Channel

I know the mobo will but what about the cpu?

As long as the cpu is designed for the motherboard that you are using the DDR2 1066 in, everything will be fine..

ENTIRE computer shut down, all lights, fans, everything.  Tried to restart.....nothing.  I opened the case and the psu and video were hot to the touch.  I then replaced the psu with a scrap model and the fans came on(not the hdd because of no available SATA plug).  I ordered up a new psu and the moment I plugged it in I got the fans on with the hdd sounding good but no video.  Turned off and BACK on.  What I got was continuous BEEP and fans whirring but no video.  Tested new psu and it was fried.  Sent back my video card to XfX and it is fried along with my Kinston RAM.  Can I plug in my processor into another working box to find out if it's ok or will that hurt the only good box I have left?  I think the MB is totally shot because it keeps frying everything I throw at it.  PLEASE help a lowly noob:(

This is a custom build that has worked flawlessly for about 2.5 YEARS.  The specs are:
MSI K9N4 Sli-f MB
AMD 4200 dual core
Ultra 600w psu
XFX 8800 Video card
3g Kingston RAM (6400)
400g HDD (SATA)
Floppy drive
Litescribe DvD player/burner
pci wireless card

Just standard stuff really...... Thanx 4 all the help!NO!No? No what. HUH?! Quote from: scottisaNOOB on January 20, 2010, 12:51:04 PM

No? No what. HUH?!

Mine is a desktop running Vista ultimate I have been working with a 40 gig drive. I have added another 500 gig drive. There are two SATA ports on the Intel main board. So far so good.
It OCCURRED to me that if I did a clean install of WINDOWS on the new 500 drive I could avoid swapping any malware to the new drive. So:
I did a clean install of Windows on the 500 drive with the 40 drive unplugged. Then:
I reconnected the 40 drive and copied the files I wanted (documents) to CD drive. Looking good so far as I check the files on the CD.
I booted from the 500 drive and, alas: I can't see anything on the CD...
I unplug the 500 drive and boot from the 40...The files are there where I left them on the CD.
I know that there is a flaw in my understanding, but it seems this should work.
Any Ideas?
Ivan CopasEasiest solution if they are both SATA drives would be to DLoad and use the Free utilities from the 500G manuf site and "clone" the 40G to the 600.

Then you completely remove the 40G and setup the 500 as the boot drive and walla ! !...you're good to go.

The 40 can then be hooked up as a slave...formatted and USED for storage.

PS: This will work even if the 40 is an IDE...post BACK if you need more info.Thanks for your response.
Everything seems to be working. I'm not sure just how.
Keep up the good work.
Ivan COPAS

Ok so i am trying to access my old laptop hard drive via a usb/ide/sata cable.

SPECS:
  My hard drive is the Fujitsu model MHV2100AH
Here is a link to its full specs: http://www.fujitsu.com/us/services/computing/storage/hdd/mobile/mhv2120ah.html
Here is a link to a picture of the HD: http://media.laptoplogic.com/data/reviews/images/92/fuj_2100ah.jpg

My Problem:  When i plug in the hard drive to a COMPUTER CONNECTED via the ide/sata/usb cable the cable is recognized and drivers are installed by windows, but the hard drive never shows up in my computer.  I have tried three different COMPUTERS with the same result. So, what do i do know? 

Thank you in advance for your advice  See, if it's LISTED in Disk Management.
If so, what does DM say about it?

I'm looking to buy a new motherboard for a video editing workstation.  My graphics cards, which I would run in DUAL mode, are ASUS GeForce 9800 GTs (Nvidia).  I'd probably use an Intel Core i7-860 Quad-Core Processor.  Can someone recommend a good mainboard to support these cards and this processor?I know this thread is a few days old, please forgive me if BRINGING it back is frowned upon here but I'm new

Are there any specific features you need on a motherboard?  What other components do you have?  What do you need to buy? What's your BUDGET?
Off the TOP of my head I would recommend the Asus P6T as it's a generally good all-rounder, but something else may be better suited depending on your specific requirements.Thanks, Crosshair, but I've already landed on the ASUS P7P55D Deluxe as my choice.  I appreciate your thinking of me anyway.  Ah, also a great choice.
I wasn't sure if you were set on LGA1156 or not, which is why I recommended the P6T which is of course LGA1366.
Glad you made your decision, hope you enjoy your new MACHINE

There is no MODIFY on some of my Post's, Why is this ?Clik the small Doc LOOKING ICON on the right in the BODY of the Post.

If I select 220v input for my desktop computer's power supply what power output is GOING to the auxiliary socket for my monitor?  The power supply has two North American standard output jacks on it on the the back of the computer.

My monitor is 110v only and I don't want to RUIN it.

I can't find any specs on the web to describe whether the output switches or not.

Regards,
EdThe switch is internal to the rectifiers.
In 220 mode t is a full wave bridge.
Translation:
Do NOT plug  monitor into  AC receptacle on  the back.
GET either  auto-voltage monitor or get  transformer for you existing monitor.

My friend brought me his laptop today (Windows Vista) with a problem on deleting a partition. Which wasn't a problem at all since I've never had a problem deleting them on my own Windows XP before. I took the usual route in deleting an unnecessary partition:

Control Panel --> Administrative Tools --> Computer Management --> Storage --> Disk Management --> Right click on partition to be removed --> Delete Partition (or Delete Volume in Vista's case)

The thing that confuses me is that unlike my computer, the memory that should have been transferred to his C: drive from that deleted partition is not registering. I mean, the partition itself is gone, but the properties of his main C: drive are not showing that all that space that he had from the partition are there. He originally had 36 GB TOTAL to his C: drive, and 108 GB to the partitioned D: drive. There was absolutely nothing on that drive, he wanted it gone, since it was in fact PUT on there by some family member, so it wasn't important anyways. I am just wondering why that in the properties of the C: drive, it's not showing that the 108 GB has been added to the C: drives 36 GB. I just don't WANT all that free space floating around in memory limbo somewhere where he will never be ABLE to STORE on it or access it again... Any help will be appreciated. Thank you.

~Regards

P.S. And yes, I have restarted the computer.  After deleting a partition the space used is not automatically acquired by the remaining partition(s). You need to do that as a separate action.Will probably need a partitioning program then huh?If it's Vista you should be able to extend the partition with Disk Management. But if you want to use a 3rd party app there are a number of good free ones (Easeus is one).Thank you very, very much for your help. Got it all sorted out.You're most welcome.

I replaced my hard drive with a Western DIGITAL 500G. It ran great for a week. Then I booted up one day and the HD wouldn't boot up. I had power to other parts of the computer,fans and etc. When I tried to shut down by depressing and holding the power button it wouldn't shut off even after a couple of minutes. I had to unplug the computer. Now the only way it POWERS up is by plugging it in. I also notice that the light that indicates power on the power button and reset button do not light up.
The computer is a VPR Matrix 2020 with an ATX P4 DDR System Board
Thanks for any help you can give me.
The boot sector of your computer may be messed up from a virus or something of that nature, also the WIRING in your computer sounds like it was done incorrectly if the light is not working.

Howdy

   So whilst figuring out how to install Windows 7 I learned that windows 7 won't install with 3gb of RAM in my PC so I removed all but the one (1gb). After installing windows 7, I decided to try and install the other 2 sticks to get them to work with Windows 7. When I installed them I made sure as I always do to discharge myself so there would be no static to ruin my PC. After I inserted them and then plugged it all back in it starts for like 3 seconds then it turns off and no fans or nothing and the power LED is on. So it won't POST and it does just as mentioned. I looked up how to clear my CMOS but that didn't help any. I've also removed the other two sticks of RAM and nothing then I removed all the RAM and that is where I'm at. I've read another forum where someone said it might be the PSU. Anyhow any and all suggestions are WELCOME.

                                 -KentSo it runs with only one stick of ram, but when you add the other two it will not post and the fans don't spin?

PSU is definitely a suspect..    Do you have another psu of equal or greater wattage you can try?  Maybe you can borrow one from another computer or a friends computer. 

How old is the computer and what is the make/model?




If it works with one then why would adding 2 more kill the psuEEVIAC:

Yeah it used to run with only the one stick but since it started what I mentioned it won't run at all. I bought the MOBO used off of eBay and it hasn't had a problem for like 2 to 3 weeks now. Until I've gone down the road of installing windows 7. Then all of what I've mentioned has happened.
 
I built the computer my self and the power supply is about maybe 2 years old. It is a ASUS A7N8X-E Deluxe MOBO, AMD Sempron 3200+ CPU, OCZ PC3200 1gb RAM (x3 Sticks), Nvidia Geforce Fx 5500 256mb video card.

Computeruler:

That's what I thought, though it has been working for like two weeks now with XP. It's just that the Windows 7 install won't complete with 3gb of RAM installed so I had to remove it. Then after the install I thought I would try to get the other two gigs installed and then all this happened. I tried this once before and I had to push the reset button three to five times to get it to POST but now like I said before I turn it on and it turns itself off in a matter of 3 seconds and the power LED is on with no fans or nothing on in the PC. Quote from: computeruler on December 18, 2009, 07:54:57 PM

If it works with one then why would adding 2 more kill the psu

That's what I thought, though it has been working for like two weeks now with XP.

... I bought the MOBO used off of eBay and it hasn't had a problem for like 2 to 3 weeks now...

That explains everything.

  I still have my bets on the psu or a couple of other things. 

The ram voltage or speed may not be set correctly in cmos or, according to the ASUS, QVL (qualified vender list) for supported memory,  OCZ is not on there list, however, why a single module would work and not the other 2 is wierd so QVL may not be a factor here.

I guess before testing the psu we could try this... Remove the other two ram modules to allow yourself to enter cmos setup..  Enter the Advanced Chipset Configuration and try some different voltages/speed on the memory and remember to save your settings before exiting AND MAKE ONLY ONE CHANGE AT A TIME, for testing.  We don't won't to get too confused here.

Once you exit, if it boots up, shut down the computer and put the other two RAM modules back in to see if the new voltage settings work.   If you cannot boot after setting, remove the battery and start over by going back into cmos and trying a different setting..

If none of these other settings work, then we need to test the psu, somehow.. If you cannot borrow another psu, maybe you can take your psu and put it into another computer, if someone doesn't mind.  If it works then my bet is that the problem is not the psu, and more likely to be either a defective board as Commando said, or a QVL issue...

We'll the thing is, Is that I would love to get to the CMOS page and adjust some stuff to make the other two RAM sticks work. But ever since this sudden turn on for 3 seconds and turn back off I can't get to the CMOS. I've pulled all sticks to try and get the MOBO to give it's warning klaxon for having no RAM but the same thing happens. Turns on for three seconds then back off again with the power LED light on and no fans turning no nothing.

I had the same board in the same pc about a month ago the capacitors blew up in it and started leaking.

hello everybody 

i gather this is a pretty common complaint because i've seen it covered on the forum before but mine problem doesn't seem to want to go away after following those steps.

basically, we recently reset our family computer (like a big reset, F11, year zero, everything deleted) and now none of us (there are three PARTITIONS) have any files. HOWEVER after trying to save a movie clip my computer informs me i'm out of disk SPACE. i go to investigate and my C drive is saying it's 99% full. what the fack.

so i found my way here by searching the web and despite my ineptitude with computers i've done:
one of those ScanDisk things that takes about 2 hours
a disk cleanup
i've tried to defrag but the COMP says i only have 1% free disk space and that's not enough for it to do a defrag
and i've cleaned out my temp files, cookies, history etc..

i'm totally open to any suggestions or trying anything listed above with better instructions because i am quite bad at computers and there may have been something i missed. HALP No idea what you're talking about. You need to tell us EXACTLY what you did - every STEP that you took.what don't you get? Quote from: ihatecomputers on January 23, 2010, 03:21:40 PM

basically, we recently reset our family computer (like a big reset, F11, year zero, everything deleted) and now none of us (there are three partitions) have any files. However after trying to save a movie clip my computer informs me i'm out of disk space. i go to investigate and my C drive is saying it's 99% full. what the fack.

First time posting on here in over a year. Hopefully the help is as good as it used to be.

I've got a Dell Vostro 220s and i'm wanting to put a new processor in it, but I can't find out what's compatible with the MoBo. I know it has an Intel Celeron in it right now. It's a single core and it's only 1.6 GHz. I'd like to put a dual core in it. Maybe like the 6300 Wolfdale if possible. I've gone to the Dell website and of coarse that was no help. Maybe if someone can help me figure out the socket type or something then i'll know what I can get. Thanks.My experience with Dell is that their Forum has some great help! Quite a few of my upgrade questions have had satisfactory answers on there. I had 3 Dells all of which I upgraded. Finally I broke down a built my own! Good luck!You could also DLoad install and run Everest Home on it...that will tell you more about the machine than you'll need to know...
Post back with the MBoard and CPU info here and we'll have a looksee.....

PS Welcome Back !Good idea patio. I'll do that after I do my taxes and post back with the results. If there are any that are useful.Ok so I decided to skip the Everest part and just WENT and looked up the info on the Celeron 420 CPU thats currently in the PC. It's a single core, 1.6 GHz, 35W, 65nm, LGA775 processor. Now that I know it's a 775 socket type, I assume I can find something fairly easy to replace it with. Now my next question... The Celeron 420 has a FSB of 800 MHz. Should I stick to that or can I go higher? I'm also gonna check to see what kind of PSU it has, and whether or not it will be sufficient enough to power a better CPU.

**Edit**

I just realized that the 420 uses the 65nm Lithography, and is 35W. Can I even use a processor that's 45nm and 65W? I'm still new to this CPU upgrading thing.

Also, would I have to purchase a new Operating System if I upgrade the CPU?If it's possible, I want to go with this:

"Intel Pentium E5200 Wolfdale 2.5 GHz 2MB L2 Cache LGA 775 65W Desktop Processor"

Nothing special. But it should be a significant increase in speed. Still questioning the 65W though.Any socket 775 CPU should work. Not always...it still depends on the MBoard  itself...
What board is this ?That was the original problem. I don't know what board this is or who manufactured it. I can't find ANYTHING on Dell's website that tells me what board is in the "Vostro 220S". The only thing they can do is recommend a replacement/upgrade, which they also fail to specify anything about. The last time I ran Everest Home on a PC it also failed to give me any info that I was actually looking for, but I suppose I could give it a shot on this one.Ran Everest Home 2.20 and the MB info is all unknown. I think i'll go to the Dell forums as mentioned earlier and ask around.

*UPDATE*

Went to the Dell forums and it SEEMS that not every Vostro 220s has the same mobo. Some people on there actually talk about components being on their brand new 220s that are not on mine. Maybe I could use the chipset on the board to come up with something?

Dell is a solid company, but if you ever want to upgrade a Dell PC, they sure do make it hard to do so without actually buying the parts from them. And even then they'll only give you the hardware that they recommend.Well you could always just open it up and look at the numbers on the board. You are gonna have to do this anyway if you want to upgrade your CPU.Yeah might as well. I need to see what i've got in terms of AGP/PCI/PCI Express slots anyways. Gonna put a new GPU in it also.You can also try Belarc Advisor and System Info for Windows ...both FREE.

Major builders will use different manuf. during a production run...i worked on an eMachines once that had sourced out 9 different MBoards in 1 model over a 16 month production run...

Also the MBoard will have an FCC # on it....google it...sometimes you'll get lucky.

Or Try Here...Ok, so i've looked at the board and it's manufactured by Foxconn. The only ID i can make out is "G33 M02". There's also what looks to be a serial number. It has 4 DDR2 slots, and 2 PCI slots. It also has a slot that says, "PCI E1 x 16". I'm assuming thats my PCI Express slot. Kinda surprised it has one. I'm gonna look the board up and see what I can find. Please feel free to do the same if you like. Thanks.Well I can't find a single thing about this particular board. I found a G33M board and a G33MS board on Foxconn's PRODUCT website, but neither one of those is a match to my G33M02. It seems that the board thats in my Dell is a unique board made specifically for the Dell Vostro 200 series. Neither Foxconn or Dell have it listed on their product site, so it's gonna be a trial and error thing. I did read that another owner of the same board had stated that it will only accept Core 2 Duo, Pentium, and Celeron processors. (775 socket obviously)

Hi!!
RECENTLY My HDD got full, so I have to write all the stuff on Blank DVD (DVD R).I wrote the DVD using NERO Burning ROM and according to Nero it was written successfully and verified but when I tried to open it my PC is still detecting it empty while on my friend's PC with combo drive the DVD seems to be working fine.
Some help me please??This means the DVD was not finalised and will appear empty...

ISOBUSTER can retrieve and EXTRACT the data to be re-burned...however i don't think it is still Free...
There may be other tools out there as well so wait for some more responses...Well Nero burning ROM verified the DVD R and it's still working in my friend's PC??Verifying and finalising are two different things...
Verifying compares the existing files to what was written to the CD to see if they are identical...
Finalising closes the burn project and makes the data readable on the disc.Does your DVD-RAM drive read other disks OK?WyattSoft
It read most DVDs but does not read some DVDs

patio
O.K.......I will TRY again


P.S My HDD is SATA and DVD-RAM is old type i think it's called IDE

Got some money to spend and DECIDED to spend some of it in the computer department to improve gaming quality.

I currently have a HP a6402.uk Desktop, which the specifications are:

1.8GHz Pentium Dual Core E2160
2GB DDR2 PC2-6400 800MHz RAM (2x1GB)
250GB SATA Hard Drive
LightScribe SATA Drive
NVIDIA 9500GT 1GB
Windows Vista Home Premium 32bit


Now, if I was upgrading I would:

- Get a new hard drive: http://www.dabs.com/products/western...32mb-592M.html

- Upgrade to Windows 7 Professional 64bit: http://www.software4students.co.uk/M...n-details.aspx

- And maybe upgrade to 4GB RAM: http://www.ebuyer.com/product/142399

Now with some other small stuff to buy, that will work out at £160.44 (£92.45 without the RAM).

On another forum however, It was SUGGESTED that I upgrade the CPU instead of the RAM.

But I was wondering whether I should upgrade or just get a new PC altogether...


What do you guys (and girls) think?Hard choice. 
But prices are coming down on new PCs.
You get more for your money if you buy a whole new PC.
Because now you have two PCs. Just a heads up - your first two links don't work.
Roughly how much are you looking to spend?  What games do you play?

For better gaming, upgrade the graphics card.  The 9500GT is a low performance card.
However, with a prebuilt machine, it's likely you would need a new power supply as the standard ones are almost always just barely adequate and low quality.
Also, a bigger card may not fit in your case.
A faster processor would make a difference in some games and general usage, but you may have cooling problems with the case depending what you change to.  Also, socket 775 is a bit of a dead end upgrade path.
More RAM may make the OS feel a bit smoother and snappier, but with the price of memory now (£34 for 2GB, x2 = £68)  I don't personally think it's worth it.
A new HDD would obviously give you more space and may be a little faster, which you would notice with a decrease in boot times, programs would load a bit quicker etc.  But I would say unless you need the space it's not worth it unless your current drive is very slow.Sorry about the links, the forum where I copied the post from had shortened the LINK, and as I don't seem to be able to edit my post above, here are the links:

http://www.dabs.com/products/western-digital-640-gb-caviar-black-sata-300-32mb-592M.html

http://www.software4students.co.uk/Microsoft_Windows_7_Professional_64_bit_Upgrade_Edition-details.aspx

Those two are definite, as I would like Windows 7 and I'm running out of space on my current drive.


Looks like getting a new PC is the way to go.
Now I need to CHOOSE whether to go with a pre-build or build my own...If you don't decide to buy/build a new PC, you sould make sure your current motherboard and/or any other hardware is compatible with a 64 bit OS. (You may have already done this, just putting that in there) As crosshair mentioned, the 775 socket it on its way out the door, but, there are still some very good CPU's that you could upgrade to, depending on your budget.

Now i'm in the same situation you are right now, and with my motherboard, it's still feasible to go the upgrade path rather than buy/build a whole new PC. It really all boils down to your budget and what you're going to be doing with the PC.

For instance: My mom wants me to upgrade her PC so my younger brother can play the games he wants on it. I can get all of the following for under $330 USD. (These aren't the new top of the line technology's, but they're far better than what she currently has, and after shopping around, all that is still cheaper than buying a similar pre-built system.)

2GB PNY DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) RAM
Intel E6500 2.93GHz Dual core CPU
GeForce 220 512MB Video card
160GB WD Caviar HDD
550W Rosewill Power supplyI assume the motherboard is 64bit compatible, as the 7 Upgrade Advisor listed all my motherboard COMPONENTS (e.g. Network, sound, etc) as compatible.

And from the HP site:

* Socket: 775
* Supports the following processors:

• Core 2 Duo E7xxx (Wolfdale-M) (65W)
• Core 2 Duo E4x00 (Conroe core) (65W)
• Pentium E2xxx series (Conroe core) (65W)
• Celeron Dual Core E1xx0 series (Conroe core) (65W)
• Celeron 4xx series (Conroe core) (35W)

My desktop computer is PLUGGED in and everything is hooked up to it. The CPU turns on but the monitor keeps FLASHING this self test MESSAGE saying the monitor is working but there must be something wrong with the signal CABLE. I've unplugged and plugged the signal cable back into the CPU but it still won't work. The self test message keeps coming back.Just happened?
Try DIFFERENT cable.

My Dell laptop screen is jumping all over the place and has enlarged the ICONS to 3 times
there normal size (overnight)..........shut the computer down normally and then the next
morning PRESTO.....it does not jump around in SAFE MODE........not sure if it is a virus, video
card or screen going bad.................................... .HELP PLEASEIT may be viruses or it could be that your primary display driver needs to be reinstalled/updated... Safe Mode uses a basic vga driver that is encoded in the bios chip, safe from the rest of the system, which could be why it works in safe mode.... It could also be a service and/or program causing it.....While you're in Safe Mode, only the minimal set of drivers and services required to run Windows is loaded.  This helps minimize loading viruses and/or other fluff software, so if a virus is the problem, Safe Mode has OBVIOUSLY subdued it/them..

Start by going into Safe Mode again, click START, Click RUN, type: msconfig
and click "OK"
Go to the SERVICES tab, check the box that says, "hide all microsoft services", click on "disable all", click apply, click ok, restart the computer and let it go back to normal mode to see if the situation has improved.. If not, go back to safe mode and instead of clicking on the "services" tab, click on the "start up" tab, then click on "disable all", click "apply" , click "ok", restart and go back to normal mode to see if the problem is corrected...  If either one of these suggestions helps, then you'll have to turn services and programs on/off to determine which one is causing it...   If none of these work, go to the Malware forum here at CH post in there... read the pre-posting instructions for beginning malware removal...    If the problem isn't malware, then we can try reinstalling the display driver...
I'm guessing malware. Do a full scan with BOTH your AV and MalwareBytes.ok going to try each of these suggestions and I do thank you both for your help

any reason the computer simply turns off while in Safe Mode after a short period of
time but not in normal mode??EEVIAC
I do not see either box at the SERVICES TAB or the STARTUP TAB....
I am using XP
I get to system configuration utlity with no problem but cannot find the
wording you show (as to the box to check) sorry to be a pain and thanks
fort the helpok I have done both FINALLY found it and the computer is still doing the
same jumping around........I actually already have the Malwarebytes
downloaded on the computer does this help??   

Do you think it is the Video Card or Screen?  the reason I dont think it
is because it doesnt do it in the safe mode.......am I thinking right?I think it's the video drivers, as it's working fine in safe mode, which uses the default VGA driver which is compatible with all modern graphics cards/chips.

Uninstall the drivers from Programs and Features (Add and Remove programs if you're using XP) and then download the newest version from the internet and install them.any idea on how to get the screen to stop jumping enough for me to actually
remove the drivers.............exactly what will the "drivers" say once I am in
there to remove/add new programs???

again thanks

it just jumps around so much I cannot get it to stop long enough for me to
scroll down Quote

I'm guessing malware. Do a full scan with BOTH your AV and MalwareBytes

...Dell Inspiron 1501 and when every i plug something in to the usb port (mouse,external hardrive,memory stick) the screen goes bezerk with diferent color lines going up and down ...