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Need your expert advice on what a problem might be, I have an HP Pavilion Model ZD8000 here and the display screen just went suddenly all white, I can boot it up in VGA mode, and I have uninstalled the device drivers and re-installed them. After I reinstalled them I tried to change the display BACK to the high resolution mode, the screen went all white again. Do you have any ideas what may be wrong, I think it may be the display CHIP on the laptop, do you think this is something I can replace on my own or do I need to have HP do it?have you recently updated drivers, if so, maybe the drivers are not fully compatible with you graphics card (build in or not).Yes, I did load new drivers from ATI, same problem. The display was working fine, just went to white while responding to some e-mails. The only way I can get a display is by BOOTING up and choosing "start in VGA mode" everything is fine until I try to change the resolution to the higher level that I had before and then the screen turns white.

ThanksTry booting into safemode which skips your installed drivers...
Tap F8 repeatedly as the machine is starting.
Once in lower your screen resolution and re-boot.
If this doesn't help you may have installed an incorrect driver.I can get the screen to display in VGA mode from the safe startup screen. It will display at the lowest screen resolution possible. If I try to increase the screen resolution the display will go all white, I then have to power down and reboot. I did try hooking up an external monitor, got it to display a couple of times but the image was distorted. I did get a blue DOS screen once with the warning about the video driver not working correctly. I am trying to figure or troubleshoot whether it's the graphics card chip, which I think it is, or the driver.

ThanksI did reload the new drivers, got a bit further with boot up, actually got a black screen with mouse pointer displayed but that is as far as it got with the boot up. Only way I can get a display is by starting windows XP in VGA, low resolution mode only. Any suggestions from anyone? Also I am tryiing to FIND out if the graphics chip or card on the laptop is separate from the mother board or do I have to replace the mother board as well.

ThanksThe graphics chip is part of the motherboard, so the whole thing will need REPLACING if this is indeed the problem.

Hey guys and GIRLS me and Calum have been trying to find good upgrades for my pc as i want it ready for good gaming and overall great performance , have a look at the upgrades and tell me what you all think , if you think there is a better upgrade for my desktop , find a link and i will take a look . Thanks for reading .
Some extra info: I am in the UK, and my total budget is £200. My motherboard is the Asrock P4VM890.


256mb DDR-ram will be upgraded to-.



Crucial 2x1GB 184Pin DIMM PC3200 Non-ECC Unbuffered




Radeon 9250 will be upgraded to -


XFX GeForce 8600GT 256MB DDR3 PCIE Dual DVI 540/1.4





ntel p3 well be upgraded to-


Intel P4 3.0 S478 1MB 800FSB OEM





H-P pavilion orginal power supply will be upgraded to-


Akasa Ultra quiet Active PFC 500watts PSU with 12cm Fan





Please note: All pictures are of the upgrades i am tending to make.
Very nice! I'm jealous. lolThat looks LIKE a nice solid computer to me. I would go for it if it fits your budget. I dunno wth 200... funny lookin L is I know silly americans.....It fits the budget, we worked it out carefully.
£200 is 200GBP - crazy British here.Heh, I was just about to post "it may just fit the budget " when calum posted

Are you buying the parts online or a local place?Online - dabs.com.
Great prices, great service.
(No, they aren't paying me to say this)Yeah dabs.com are awesome.

Thats where I bought pretty much all my parts when I was upgrading to the system in my sig.

I try to use them or overclockers.co.uk whenever I can because most of the shops in Glasgow are conmen. Ive had sudden change of heart and fallen in love with the EVGA GeForce 8800GTX 768MB DDR3 PCIE DUAL DVI ACS3 , that will be my new upgrade in 2 months , i say 2 months because of the price


heres a link http://www.dabs.com/productview.aspx?Quicklinx=4G00&SearchType=1&SearchTerms=geforce&PageMode=3&SearchKey=All&SearchMode=All&NavigationKey=0You should revise your sig so your posts don't take up a 1/2 page...

Just a thought.KK i will sort it now

Ok i was loading up BF 2142 and i got the blue screen of death!! i took down parts of the screen here it is as followed!!

NV4_DISP <<<< thats the reason it shut down

the device driver got stuck in a infintie loop , and thats the cause ..... i think

any help please!!!

Thanks Tony ok i think ive found the soultion......

http://www.christopherjason.com/articles/nvidia-nv4disp-problem/

can someone double check the page , thanks Can't double check it without the full error message...although the fix looks legit.yh it was way to long to type in my phone , i didnt have a pen to HAND!! i just typed down what i thought mattered ..... Ive done that mr fix it from that page seemed to of worked , but my computer just seems like a weird one patio , it will never do what its told ..... cheers for the double check on the page Let's do an exorcism and a complete clean install ! !

Those are rewarding...lol yh ..... the exorcism sounds good..... stupid thing , its odd , because its all new hardware , and it plays up as much as a older computer would i think i need a new case as well lol ..... theres a short on the 2 usbs on the side of my case , not only that the mobo is only half screwed in because its to small for the case if i moved it a little further back i could screw it in but the usb ports and all the other ports will be out of reach so it kinda sucks , its impossbile to clean all the cables in there , because there all stretched over to the main plug 20 pin connector , i fear TAKING it all out incase i mess it up ...... i still have that 160gb HD as well that is just sitting about doing nofing , because it wont format and take a clean install of x-p it just repeats the bios screen over and over otherwise that new HD would be in here ....... a fair few bugs there ...... demons be gone!!! stupid thing ....... bf 2142 plays like a charm now , had to lower the cpu frequency in BIOS .....

thanks again heres the error i got it again!!!

stop: 0x000000EA (0x820A1DA8, 0x8207D368, 0xF8560CB4m, 0x00000001)Quote

0x000000EA: THREAD_STUCK_IN_DEVICE_DRIVER
(Click to consult the online WIN XP Resource Kit article.)
A device driver problem has caused the system to pause indefinitely (hang). Typically, this is caused by a display driver waiting for the video hardware to enter an idle state. This might indicate a hardware problem with the video adapter, or a faulty video driver.

what the differences with regular PCI & PCI Express?PCI Express(PCIe) is a serial based technology, data can be SENT over the bus in two directions at once. Normal PCI is Parallel, and as such all data GOES in ONE direction. BASICALLY, PCIe is faster. GO here for more information.

What are the best troubleshooting methods to determine a hardware problem? My COMPUTER shuts down on it's own. I tried everything I could think of and finally took it to a computer technician. They said it was probably the MoB, but couldn't assure that it wasn't the RAM or CPU as well since they couldn't get power past the MoB. I contacted the MoB COMPANY and received a refurbished MoB under WARRANTY program. Still no luck. I replaced the RAM and the CPU with new hardware, but still no luck. I have a 450 power supply, so it shouldn't be a power problem. At wits end... Where Next?New board
RAM replaced ? ?
CPU replaced ? ?

This part is confusing...did you swap the RAM/CPU into the new board or are you saying you replaced both ? ?

DLoad and run MemTest to check the RAM...let it run a few hours.
A CPU can only be tested by swapping it into a known good machine.

My guess...PSU.

Borrow one of the same wattage or greater and see if conditions improve. If so replace it and don't get a $20.00 model...
First I replaced the motherboard -- still didn't work
Then I replaced the RAM -- still didn't work
Then I replaced the CPU -- still didn't work

I can't even get the computer to stay on LONG enough to DLoad and run MemTest to check the RAM.

If something is wrong with the power supply, is it possible that the power supply appears to be working but is not pushing enough power?Quote from: caparkin on June 20, 2007, 05:25:53 PM

If something is wrong with the power supply, is it possible that the power supply appears to be working but is not pushing enough power?

when you have the computer plugged in are there any lights on on the motherboard? If not then its the power supply

I can't even get the computer to stay on long enough to DLoad and run MemTest to check the RAM.

Hey all , i had just had a problem with my old motherboard , the sotry goes like this...

me and callum of this site where havinh a chat on my harddrive and how it found a few errors so he asked me to run a few checks and i did , so i suggested taking a LOOK inside my pc and having a look for a serial number not only was i looking for the serial number for the reason above but i ALSO supected the guy of repaired my pc a few months back had stole some of my harddrive , so i shutdown my pc and took my panel off and inside the system fan was plenty of dust i left it as it was as i had no clue what i was touching , i didnt get the serial number either as it was to far it for me to see it. so i shut it all back up and turned on my pc , I GOT THIS MESSAGE: SYSTEM FAN ERROR , AUTO SHUTDOWN ON 5SECS. then i took my computer to a shop i was told my motherboard had been fryed so , i got a new one put in along with a new system fan this one i have now is actually intell , the last one i had was a cheap knocked off so i would be most greatfull if SOMEONE could give me a thumbs up to wether this newmotherbroad i have is top of the line and good or bad. ty very much for reading

link with full spec for mother below:



http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=P4VM890That is by no means "top of the line" > that would be a 680i north bridge chipset. (socket 775)

But; that motherboard is "very nice" and I suspect it will do all you need and more in computing ... Nice choice....... sweet cheers for taking your time to look , allthough one issue , my computer seems to be running slower than normal is that right it looks real good (your hardware, etc...) and I am no genius here at all but
what (model/brand >PSU ) is powering that new mobo and all that nice stuff?

also* did you use the old hard drive inside this new rig ? Was everything left as before with the original xp installed on the drive, etc... ? havent got a clue , i infact am no genius , thats why i payed him extra to do it all for me

I only have a few more upgrades to do now and my computer is in date wth the 21st century

1. Find out the wattage / voltage rating on your installed power supply inside your case*

2. NOT SURE* but "maybe" the slower speeds might be related to an issue with your hard drive and motherboard/ driver issues.
Patio, Warrior, Street, GX1-Man etc... (guys with like 2000+ posts) should be able to give you some better info and get your closer to the speed issue*
when it comes down to computers this technal i have not got a clue , maybe there is to much power running into it , i havent got a foggest , i hope someone could help , also , i have been downgraded in ram , i checked on ccleaner start up i only have 196mb of ram now could the motherboard of taken some and calum found me a nice little upgrade of r am for my hp , that i will be getting on here SOON end of next week at the latest.

Make sure your power supply is sufficient 1st*

then the next thing is a definite bump in ram (memory) Calum is right on, you need more up to 512 min. That would be a BIG increase in your speed.
1# gig (2 sticks) of 512mb would be your very best choice ...you'd run that in a dual channel mode..and there would be no speed issue Yh im hopeing to turn this pc into a all gamesstar , so i can play almost anything i have got a grahpics card in mind , http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/125754/rb/0 , from that link of the card i want can i use it on my computer , many thanksmy pc is now borderline , it is running so slow , i mean like very slow , takes me ages to load up programs , didnt before , there must be a way for now i can speed it up , without new ram .. any suggestions , maybe some help on the power supply Quote from: richenstony on June 19, 2007, 02:31:00 PM

my pc is now borderline , it is running so slow , i mean like very slow , takes me ages to load up programs , didnt before , there must be a way for now i can speed it up , without new ram .. any suggestions , maybe some help on the power supply

Yh im hopeing to turn this pc into a all gamesstar , so i can play almost anything i have got a grahpics card in mind , http://www.ebuyer.com/UK/product/125754/rb/0 , from that link of the card i want can i use it on my computer , many thanks

As in, the computer is just not seeing it. I have checked all my cables and connections and I INSTALLED a new driver, but the computer still will not recognize it. What am I over looking?I think there is an option in the bios that may be off Are the JUMPERS for Master\Slave\Stand ALONE set CORRECTLY?yup,check the jumper.i going through this b4,it is from the jumper.

Quote from: JXY on September 03, 2007, 08:03:54 AM

how much VIDEO RAM do you have?

.hmm.....i don't exactly see why you're game should be affected.

try changing your color setting to 16bit mode.

Sorry to hear about your troubles.

Have you checked to see if all your fans are working?

Is you computer running in a warm room?

Can you post your hijack this log?

Benz

one of the first pieces of adivce was to run protection programs.

do this, if you have any. if you don't, download AVG free.

it could be malware or a virus which is causing your computer to slow.

im sure nobody has thought of this, but ill tell u what u should do....U go out to the store and buý a new computer!

Ill do the same when i got a job and enough money!

Dont blame me for my bad ideas, but i just tell the easiest option....thats what iam best at!


Yw

No need to thank me!!!

It seems no one can help me with my video connection problem, but can anyone answer this? Is it possible to short a firewire? Or is it possible for a virus to hurt a video camera through a firewire?any wire could / can be shorted but I doubt THATS your case, something ELSE like your motherboard would be affected*

did you post something earlier about the camcorders and 2 pc's / mac ?yes firewire can short and be screwed , i was asked to LOOK at a guys computer, it went on for about a minute then shut down, I opened the case and it was like an oven in there. The firewire card was untouchable so hot it was almost glowing, especially the chip, when i used a magnifying glass to look at the connections, i could see a bluish tint on the metal, he had tried to connect usb to the firewire, why he could not explain, but the card went in the bin, it seems that many people try to put usb and firewire plugs into the OPPOSING plug holes, not a good idea.

I recently built this computer and after a few headaches with a stick of DDR2 I switched it back to DDR and ordered some more DDR2 thinking the stick was too powerful for the mobo. Caused total computer lock ups, had to hard restart. So I get the new 2x1gig sticks yesterday pop them in same problem. I have messed with the ram timings turning them down and down only seems to prolong the time before a lock up. Bios is updated to max, along with any other driver. Someone told me that a fresh install of windows would fix it but I haven't got around to trying that because my CD is only SP1 takes about a DAY to get up and running again.

Comp specs:
Mobo: PCChips p23g v3
Vid card: ATI Radeon 9600PRO
Ram: Kingston ValueRAM DDR2 PC-4200 1Gigx2
Processor: Pentium D 3.2ghz

Link to DXDIAG - http://rapidshare.com/files/37229350/DxDiag.txt.html

If you want something else just tell me.Sorry to here about your problems. Sometimes matching memory to a motherboard can be troublesome. I always get mine from here http://www.crucial.com/uk/ as they guarantee compatibility. You can use their selector tool to see what is compatible, and check if what you have is RIGHT for your mobo.

It may also be worth trying SETTING your BIOS to "default settings" to see if that cures the problem.I see you have Kingston memory in it. I visited Kingston's website and saw that they do not list PC Chips in the list of manufacturer's in their memory search function. So, how did you determine which of their memory modules to buy?Motherboard compatibility DDR2 PC-4200 is the same on all systems isn't it? I have it running after turning it down to 400mhz, I think the bandwidth is capped at 260, and it was going over that. So I will have to tweak it some more to bring it back up to 533. I had a SIMILAR problem with my buffalo firestix it turned out to be the memory voltage. The voltage was to low to actually do anything other then getting into the bios. I dont remember what voltage i have it at now but it is the voltage recommended by buffalo. I ended up replacing my mobo because my intel mobo would not take a voltage bump large enough for the ram. I built a bios for it with the correct memory voltage flashed the board and killed it in the process. So i got a nice asus board now with the correct memory timings and voltage.

Memory is also never realy too fast for a mobo. The mobo might not be able to use the full speed of it but memory will always downclock itself to a speed that the motherboard can handle.Quote from: highmofowalking on June 15, 2007, 11:14:48 AM

Motherboard compatibility DDR2 PC-4200 is the same on all systems isn't it?

I have it running after turning it down to 400mhz, I think the bandwidth is capped at 260, and it was going over that. So I will have to tweak it some more to bring it back up to 533.

I built a bios for it

I get the impression there's too much tampering going on, here. Might be a good idea to go back to default settings? If it doesn't work at default settings, I'd take that as an indication you don't have the right memory.

I USED to be able to watch the videos and now the are slow/choppy? I thought of purchasing a new video and see what happens (I know, GIVING them MORE money) but even the free previews are choppy. The videos had been fine so I know my system is adequate. The sound is still OK. When I watch something else, LIKE say something on you tube the video is fine. ANy ideas?Disk cleanup...
Defrag...
EMPTY Temp Internet folders...I will do this but wouldn't I have seen this problem with all video playback then, not just itunes?

My family owns a Canon Powershot A70 thats been working good for the past while, now it doesn't want to take PHOTOS. You can view previously taken photos on it, but If you take a photo you can not see it. And the screen is always black, even though we have it SET on "Auto" to auto adjust to the light.

I know this isn't exactly a computer forums expertise but it would save my family time and money rather then have a professional look at it. I did try to reset it to factory default, but it didn't change ANYTHING but when I looked up the reset in the MANUAL there was a note:

Quote

The Custom white balance is not cancelled even if setting are reset to default

Hey, sorry if this is the wrong place to ask, but im new here. I looked through the Faqs, but my QUESTION seems to specific.

I'm building a new computer from scratch. Currently on my old computer (the one im on), i have 2 hard drives. One of them (80gbs) contains xp, and the other (250gbs) contains all my movies, music, documents, and much more. I recently bought another 250gb hard drive, but it is still in the box. I was wondering if i installed xp on the hard drive thats still in the box, and i move the hard drive that does not contain xp on my old computer(250gbs) to my new computer, will the hard drive(old 250gbs) have everything ereased?

My new computer will contain:
-MSI P6N SLI Platinum LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI ATX Intel Motherboard

-EVGA 320-P2-N811-AR GeForce 8800GTS 320MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Video Card

-Rosewill RP550V2-S-SL 550W SLI Ready-ATX 12V V2.01 Power Supply

-Intel Core 2 Duo E6600 Conroe 2.4GHz LGA 775 Processor

-CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 675 (PC2 5400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TWIN2X2048-5400c4

-dvd BURNER, dvd rom, and floppy, COOLER master casealso, i was advised that when i first installed the old 250gb, i formatted it, as you do with all hard drives when u install (with a cd). now there is no reason to format it again(and erease everything) because a hard drive that is formatted is just a plug and play thing. Remember, im not installing xp to this hard drive, so their is no reason anythign should be ereased. xp is going to the new hard drive that will be formatted.I'm on my emachine right now but

that is exactly the same rig I just built (almost) real nice choice on your mobo you'll love it!!!
Honestly, I suck on hard drives, wait a few for some better minds to help you there, i don't think you would lose anything but I'm not real sure* you formatted it already so I'm guessing you'll be fine ?

*mine*
MSI P6N SLI Platinum
C2D E6600 < SMOKIN*
MSI 8800gts
g-skill 2x 1 gig PC6400 HQ
etc.....Yes, I formatted it when i first installed it. You do not usually reformat a hard drive unless you want to start from scratch, am i right? I do not believe anything will be ereased, but i just want to make sure..

As for the motherboard and the other parts, i just recieved them today. I am currently on an HP, so this will be a BIG step up for me.I think you'll be just fine (formatted in NTSF i hope not fat 32)

If you get STUCK on the build, feel free to email me anytime and good luck, If its your 1st build , I'm sorry but you'll be hooked for life.. Yes, it says File System: NTFS. Just out of curiosity, whats wrong with formatting in fat32? And also, since the hard drive is formatted, there is no reason it should not be read on my new build.

Yes, this is my first build. I have a couple friends who have built their computers coming over. I can't wait! I'm going from an integrated video card to an 8800gts. Thanks, i will email you if i have any questions about the build.

So i should be alright with the hard drives?NTFS is for OS's after Windows ME (newer versions) do a google search on both if you want to learn the nuts & bolts/ differences....

that MSI sli platinum is a very stable and reliable board, its almost idiot proof

I had a world of trouble with mine but I did it myself and had some stupid snaggs,

make sure you keep your cords and space inside the case pretty tight and clean, you need to have real nice airflow inside with these 8800gts , they do get pretty darn warm but good airflow and fans will do the trick ~

I have the zalman 9500/ artic 5 on mine and numerous case fans* that cpu will rarely get over 30* centigrade should be around 24-26


YES on the hard drives Thanks for the tips, well my cooler master centurion 534 + comes with 3 120x120x25mm fans. I'm not going to really stress or overclock my computer, so I think I'll be alright. I just hope everything I got works the first time (meaning no DOAs).

Hello,

I have an NSLU2 and would like to use it as a "Network Anvirus", so it would be connected between my modem and router and would scan all the TRAFFIC. It would appear that there are a few antiviruses available. My only problem is that I have NEVER used the Linux Command line and to program and command the NSLU2 its the only method so I need help choosing which distro to choose and how to install an ADDITIONAL network adapter(I have a USB ONE) and then how to install an Antivirus.

Any help or advice would be ver MUCH appreciated.

Thanks

Al968

Right, have a look it is kinda long but very useful. Hope its helpful for those in need!.

There are a number of solutions to this problem. Unfortunately, troubleshooting this is the most difficult and time consuming, since it could be any one (or two or three) things which could be PREVENTING the system from starting. Here's a list to get you started.

As your system appears to be not powering up whatsoever, then, again, pay most of your attention to the motherboard and the power supply.

It is important to remember that parts, more often than not, fail individually. Therefore, once you find a faulty part, you're probably done. However, I strongly advise you to follow all the steps I've put, just to be on the safe side.

Before you start though, keep in mind that opening the case may void your warranty if you purchased a prebuilt system. You should only do this if you're comfortable with the idea of opening your computer and poking around in there. If the idea scares you, don't do it. If you feel like you have no idea what's going on, but want to learn, go ahead, but, again, be aware that you're potentially voiding any warranty that came with the computer as a whole. I also take no responsibility for you trying these steps, sorry but I'm too lazy to write a disclaimer here.

1. Make sure everything is plugged in correctly
This is a very common mistake. Usually it is the motherboard or the boot drive. Some motherboards have two CONNECTORS: The 24-pin one, and a small 4-pin or 8-pin square one. If your motherboard does not have both of these, it will only have the 24-pin. Make sure that is secured into place. If that's ok, move on to all/the hard drive cable(s): 4-pin molex/sata power and the L SHAPED data (if sata) 40-pin if Eide. The data ribbon should trace to the motherboard. Also,if Eide, the red side of the ribbon should be on both pins 1 or both pins 40; it cannot be turned around.

A general review of all the wires should be performed. Where do they start and end? Do the connections make sense? Despite what most people think, the inside of a computer is really common sense; everything fits only in one slot/hole.

2. Clear the CMOS
This is often the solution, and it's usually really frustrating because it's so simple once you know about it. All you have to do is find out from the motherboard manual where the CMOS jumper is. Make sure the system has no source of power (meaning the power supply is unplugged and the battery is removed). Then, move the CMOS jumper over the pins that clear it. After a few moments, put the jumper back, plug the power and battery back in, and try it.

If it works, job done, congrats, fireworks will light the heavens and so on. If not, carry on down the list.

3. Strip the system down
The first thing you should do is remove the system from the case**, place it on a non-conductive surface, and disconnect all components from the motherboard with these exceptions
CPU (and heatsink/fan)
A single stick of memory
Graphics card (if you have one)
Power supply
Power button

**(You can do this in the case if you wish, but my preference is the one stated. But do check the motherboard first for any shorting on extra/knackered stand-offs)

This means no drives, no peripherals, no extra ports, nothing. This TESTS two problems at once. They are the possibility of some peripheral preventing the system from powering up and the possibility of the motherboard shorting onto the case somehow (a standoff that should not be there).

To do a QUICK elimination (only if the system is completely failing to give any power at all), find where the power button connects and short those two pins for a moment with anything conductive that you have on hand. A screwdriver, knife, coin, or anything metal will work. If the system spins up, you need a new power button. (For anyone else reading: If your system was already spinning up, you can skip this step.)
If the system fails to power up outside the case, here are two things you need to do. First, do a visual inspection of all the capacitors on the motherboard. These are the little battery-looking things. What you'll be looking for is any fluid leaking out of the top or bottom, any...err...puss anywhere on them, or if they are bulging out the top or sides.

While you're looking around for bad capacitors, take a look at the ATX power connector; make sure it doesn't have any scorch marks or looks melted. If anything shows any of these characteristics, your motherboard is almost definitely your problem. If they all look ok, test repeatedly, with each stick of memory individually in each slot (this means 8 tests for 2 sticks of ram on a mobo with 4 slots).

If the system eventually powers up, you've found good memory, probably your only problem, and you're more than likely done. Put the stripped-down version back into the case and secure it. If it powers up again, skip to step 9. If not, you need to remove it again and investigate the setup of your motherboard standoffs and make sure nothing is touching the motherboard where it should not be touched. I know you haven't fitted the mobo yourself, but it's still worth a look after stripping it out. After this is done skip to step 9. If it fails to power up with any memory configuration out of the case, it must be either the CPU, the memory, the graphics card, the motherboard, or the power supply, or any combination thereof.

With the system still out of the case, (or in the case), carry on.

4. Does your CPU work?
There is only one reliable way to test this: Install your CPU into a known good and working system. Use a friend's, a neighbor's, roommate's, or whomever happens to have a system that will take your CPU.
If your CPU allows this known good system to power up, you know that it is good, and it is not the cause of your problems.
If not, you'll need a new one. As above, it's likely that this is your only problem, and once you get it replaced, you'll be good to go.
Note that I did not say to try another (known good and working) motherboard. The reason for this is that there are too many other variables at play: does the RAM work? does the graphics card work? is the power supply working? (I'll get to this later).

5. Does your memory work?
There are two (probably equally reliable) ways to test this, although one is a tad riskier than the other.

The first is to take your memory and pop it into a working test system (maybe the same one you used for the CPU) and, again, see if that system powers up.
If it does, we know the memory is good. For good measure, test all of your sticks in all possible combination, just to be sure that it's not a pair of sticks not playing nicely together.

If the good system fails to power up, you have bad memory and need to replace it.
The other (and riskier) way to test memory is to take known good and working memory and put it into your motherboard. This is riskier because the possibility exists that it is the motherboard that is bad. It is not unheard of for bad motherboards to ruin good sticks of memory. Take this route only if you have no other test system.
If the system powers, you had bad memory. If it does not, the problem is either your motherboard, your graphics, or your power supply.

6. Does your motherboard work?
This is very simple to test: Get another motherboard from somewhere, put together the basic system (as described in step 3), and see if it boots. Windows licensing doesn't come into this.

Again, if the system powers, you had a bad motherboard. If it doesn't, the problem is either your graphics card or your power supply.

7. Does your graphics card work?
This can be tested in two ways, just like the memory: Using the test computer, and a different card. However, this time, the risk of burning a good part on a bad board does not exist, as we have already tried the board. You should know however, that if you are testing a working graphics card with a faulty power supply, and that card plugs directly into the power supply, you may end up with a faulty graphics card.
Something that makes this test easier is onboard video. If your motherboard has it, and it works, but no known good video cards work, you probably have a bad AGP/PCI-E slot. Take a look (and a torch if needs be) in there for bent pins.

8. Does your power supply work?
This is simplest of all; at this point, you've ruled out everything except the psu, so grab a good one and plug it in. Not necessarily the one you've just got but I'd hazard that's going to work.

9. Time to rebuild the system.
Nicely done, all is well. (If you've got to number 9 and it still isn't working, then carry on).

At this point, you have a good CPU, motherboard, memory, video, and power supply. You also have a good case that is not shorting the motherboard. So, the last thing left to test is the rest of the peripherals, if any, and the PCI slots.

To do this, start installing things and/or plugging things in one at a time This way, if there is a bad peripheral (or slot), you will notice it immediately, because all of a sudden your working system won't work after having plugged in that next item. Check the PCI slot for bent pins to make sure it isn't actually a bad card.

This is probably (hopefully) the end of your problem, once you find that bad peripheral or slot. If it's still not working then go find someone else.....

The computer is a Dell Dimension 2400. Problem is my friends GF GOT mad and kicked the *censored* outta it. It powers up but i get no SYSTEM beeps. All I get is the POWER supply fan, the light on the MB, to turn on. One of the bulbs that goes to the HD ACT is broken. What can the problem be?Your friend

ALAN <>< Well i would personally remove everything from the case itself. If it is that beat up the case could be warped which is going to bend the motherboard which could then be bad. I would reseat the processor ram and any cards in the computer not that they got knocked loose and i would also reseat all cables to it. g/l with your girlfriend well MB seems fine. but i'll try that out. thanks manWhat's broken ? ?

Sounds like either the girlfriend or the relationship...

Oh, patio, if only you understood the joys of having a crazy girlfriend.Quote from: CBMatt on June 19, 2007, 09:24:48 PM

Oh, patio, if only you understood the joys of having a crazy girlfriend.

Oh, patio, if only you understood the joys of having a crazy girlfriend.

Quote from: CBMatt on June 19, 2007, 09:24:48 PM

Oh, patio, if only you understood the joys of having a crazy girlfriend.

I know all too well...._________ is a Redhead.

Redhead and Irish........... Fire and Brimstone!

Hello and good day!

I'm having an issue concerning a floppy DISK. It was working fine a week ago, but when I placed the floppy disk in the drive this morning I got a message that said:

"The disk in drive A is not formatted. Do you want to format it now?"

Now these pictures are very important, and I believe "formatting" a disk means erasing it completely.

Is there a means on how I can save my pictures? What's my BEST solution at this point?Try it in a different computer first. After that you might be looking at data recovery if the disk is readable. Do not format the disk.If you get the same error message with any floppy diskette you put in, most likely the problem is that the floppy drive has a) gone BAD or b) needs to be cleaned. Get some compressed AIR and blow it out. If the problem still exists, replace the drive.

Alan <>< Quote from: PCNewbie on June 20, 2007, 10:00:40 AM

Now these pictures are very important, and I believe "formatting" a disk means erasing it completely.

Have you tried to read the floppy from a command prompt?

Quote from: 2k_dummy on June 20, 2007, 12:12:49 PM

Have you tried to read the floppy from a command prompt?

What do I type to read it from the command prompt?

Truth be told this isn't my disk, as I always have a back-up of my stuff.

I hope someone can help me! Here's the SITUATION. We have used our video camera (PANASONIC DV) many times to upload to our computers, both a PC and an iBook G4. Last night, we tried to upload some video to both computers, but both computers said that the camera was not hooked up. Then we bought a new Firewire, only to have the same problem. I borrowed my sister's video camera, came home, hooked it up to our Mac, and it said it recognized the camera hookup and was ready to import. But my husband wanted to do it on the PC, so he tried on that COMPUTER instead. That camera was not recognized either and after that, the Mac wouldn't work! We think we have a problem with the PC, but don't know what. We hope that we didn't somehow break the video cameras and have to buy new ones. Does ANYONE have any CLUE what we should do?

Quote from: soybean on June 17, 2007, 09:41:36 AM

Did you look into this?:

Re-install the hotfix as soybean suggested...

Did that help or are you still having problems?

When you changed them to FAT were you able to successfully format either one of them ? ?

I always use 'Unplug or Eject Hardware' from sys tray to remove them.

Is 'Unplug or Eject Hardware' the actual term used by Windows 2000?

Is 'Unplug or Eject Hardware' the actual term used by Windows 2000? In Windows XP, it's "Safely Remove Hardware".

To use a flash drive,

I just wanna ask if its ok to ALWAYS turn off the POWER switch at the back of the power SUPPLY of my pc whenever I dont use my computer or is it better to just LEAVE it on? I use the computer everyday.Leave it on

ALAN <><

I have a friend who has an IBM Thinkpad T60. We played a joke on him and HIDES everything on his c drive. We didnt move anything, just hide the files. Now we have went back and unhide everything, or atleast we think we did, but now his computer is really slow and keeps locking up. Is it possible that we missed something that is cossing his computer to do this.

Thanks for all help in advance.

I'll bet he's thrilled...never do what you cannot un-do.This is your friend ?

So, was this a program you ran
to play the joke ?Does it have Windows XP? If so, TRY using System RESTORE to GO back to a time before making these changes. Your friend will need to reinstall any programs he installed SINCE then.

This may not work, but it's worth a shot.

Next time, try a better joke.whats the program you used? Quote from: Silencer RPMs on June 18, 2007, 11:01:04 AM

whats the program you used?

Hello everyone,i have two PCs' at the bottom of the page,i would like to know which one of them is much better in terms of its ability to run future games like NFS Pro Street..call of duty 4 ..etc and DX10 games-would like also to know if the grahic card listed below is good and if there are any other better options:


1--


Processor: Intel Celeron 3400 MHz - 512 K SOCKET LGA775 Bus 533
Mobo : MSI ntel 945 Socket LGA775 + Dual Channel
RAM : DDR2-512 MB PC667
Hard Disk : W.D.80G 7200 SATA
Video Card: 256M uPtO 512 NX7100TC PCI-EXPRESS
Sound card: Built-in
Case : ATX P4 LGA Handle

2---

Processor : Intel p4 -3200MHz -M Socket LGA775 Bus 533
Mobo : MSI intel 945 PL Neeo5-F DDR2 Socket LGA775+Dual Channel
RAM : DDR2 - 1GB PC 533
Hard Disk : W.D.160G 7200 SATA
Video Card: 256M UpTo 512 NX7100TC PCI-EXPRESS
Sound card: Built-in
Case : ATX P4 LGA Handle




thanks..
Quote from: Gilgamesh21 on June 19, 2007, 03:07:59 PM

Hello everyone,i have two PCs' at the bottom of the page,i would like to know which one of them is much better in terms of its ability to run future games like NFS Pro Street..call of duty 4 ..etc and DX10 games-would like also to know if the grahic card listed below is good and if there are any other better options:


1--


Processor: Intel Celeron 3400 MHz - 512 K Socket LGA775 Bus 533
Mobo : MSI ntel 945 Socket LGA775 + Dual Channel
RAM : DDR2-512 MB PC667
Hard Disk : W.D.80G 7200 SATA
Video Card: 256M uPtO 512 NX7100TC PCI-EXPRESS
Sound card: Built-in
Case : ATX P4 LGA Handle

2---

Processor : Intel p4 -3200MHz -M Socket LGA775 Bus 533
Mobo : MSI intel 945 PL Neeo5-F DDR2 Socket LGA775+Dual Channel
RAM : DDR2 - 1GB PC 533
Hard Disk : W.D.160G 7200 SATA
Video Card: 256M UpTo 512 NX7100TC PCI-EXPRESS
Sound card: Built-in
Case : ATX P4 LGA Handle




thanks..

My Win98 locked up while on logmein.com on dial-up. When I rebooted it had lost com2 so cannot connect with the web. Logmein should have a WARNING for win98 & dial-ups.

Rockwell HCF 56k Data Fax PCI Modem is still there but com2 is not. No LONGER have original disks.

1)I installed Standard 19200 bps Modem but that would not WORK.

2)It is not in recycle or could not be found by search.file folders…just vanished.

3)Unable to Add New Hardware WITHOUT disk

COM2 is a port that logmein couldn't get rid of if they wanted to...

What has happened is something is awry in your Windows installation because of an improper shutdown or other occurence.

Try setting up the modem on another COM port but without a Windows98 CD you may or may not have some success.Thanks for your response.

Yes, bec of logmein locking up my computer I had to unplug it bec the power button w/not work nor the cntl+alt+del keys.

I will only use the library from now on. But today I did find a CD labled "USB com2 for notebooks" dated 2001 but this is Not a laptop, think it'll screw things up?

And Msg: Failed to connect. No dial tone. Make sure Modem is connected to comp & phone line. error 680/ Quote

I will only use the library from now on. But today I did find a CD labled "USB com2 for notebooks" dated 2001 but this is Not a laptop, think it'll screw things up?

And Msg: Failed to connect. No dial tone. Make sure Modem is connected to comp & phone line. error 680/

Hi, i am having some strange issues with my power supply/motherboard. This is a new build, and i just INSTALLED the motherboard, (actually I used to have everything installed but ive been having a bunch of problems, and i have never got any video, or sign that anything is working.) the power supply and CPU. When I have the power supply set to 115w, the computer just turns on, and then shuts off imidiatly. I have TRIED this with 2 different power supplys. When it is set to the 230w, everything stays on, but i cant get anything to work. I have yet to get any beeps, or any video, i have tried 2 different video cards, that is on 230 setting. When i have it on 115, again it just turns on then off right away. Im hoping that this isnt a problem with the motherboard. The power supply is a 500w, so i know it has enough power(and even if it was 350w, i just have it plugged into the motherboard and thats it..) i just need to get this to work, because I never had this problem before, and im building it for a friend, with his money :X
If anyone can help, it would be APPRECIATED! thanks a LOT to whoever helps me!(if any one can lol -_-)Are you in the U.S.? If so, why would you set the power supply for 230V (it's volts, not watts)? because i was being retarded.. i was missing a standoff, so at 115, it shorted, for some reason at 230, it didnt short. Thank god my motherboard still WORKS! Im going to have to be more careful next time.I'd have to say you're treading on awful thin ice running a motherboard on 230v. Sooner or later (probably sooner) that board is going to fail and your friend isn't going to be very happy with you.

I'd replace both the motherboard and power supply to be on the safe side.

In my experience of building computers (I've built hundreds) if you have a problem this soon in the build you're only bound to have more.


Alan <>< Standoffs are like M & M's...walk into any computer store and they'll give you a handfull if you ask...You seem very reckless, especially for a first build. When a person slams it all together and it doesn't work, it can be very difficult to track down the problem.

Do a google search for "bench test" to prevent further episodes like this.

If you are perfectly willing to flip that power switch between 115 and 220 without understanding what you are doing, I predict you will have MANY problems.

I went to a local future shop and best buy to see some things about the displays.
Glossy do look a tad better, and even with all that light in the store the reflection wasn't that bad, but then again, I'm thinking what if I play dark games. That would be annoying. when I put the background black, it's like a mirror. And the thing is all laptops has it. Most of them where HP but only 1 laptop I have seen had just a normal mat display. So I am guessing both Asus models will have glossy look as well.
Also I have seen the 1440x900 res on 15.4", and I can say it wasn't that bad, but 1680x1050 on a 15.4" I belive it would be just a bit too much, wonder why couldn't they make the G2 a 17".

The required info..
Win XP SP2
Mobo : Asus A8N SLI - Deluxe
Video : nVidia Geforce 6800GS
RAM : 2gig
HD[1] : 100gig western digital (model unknown, its PRETTY old though) IDE
HD[2] : 200gig maxtor SATA
Monitor[1] : Sony Trinitron G400
Monitor[2] : Benq P775
Soundcard : Onboard

The background...
i rarely reboot my computer. It occurs once every couple months, so 2 days ago, things were running sluggish, and it was clear it was time for a reboot. So, thats what i did.

Upon restarting i got 2 issues.

The first - My D: drive (200gig sata), had to be formatted (no reason specified).
The second - My sound was no longer recognized.

So, after fighting with windows not showing me my D: drive, i was forced to format. Though i lost 200gigs of info, it was all backed up, so i dont consider that a huge issue, and the drive is functioning fine now after the format.

The audio however i can't seem to fix.

If i leave my computer off for a few hours then reboot, i will have sound. The sound plays fine for about 10 MINUTES at which point it gets fuzzy/scratchy, and then stops. This isnt just 1 program, it affects all system sounds as well.

If i reboot after this, my sound device is not recognized by windows, and it will remain unrecognized until i leave my computer off for a few hours.

i UPDATED drivers, checked bios, updated bios, checked my connections. Everything is up to date....The fact that it works on occassion says to me its not a software issue, which would imply a hardware malfunction. I suspect i somehow fried the sound portion of my motherboard.

Anyone have any clues? If i can avoid buying a new soundcard i will.

Sounds like a heat issue since it is onboard sound and you have INTERMITTENT problems with it. The clue is if the machine is off for awhile it works...

Get a can of compressed air from a computer shop nearby.

Remove all power sources to the machine and take off the cover/side panel.
Use the compressed air on all heatsinks and fans. Use a Q-Tip to hold the fan blades in place when blowing them out as the high pressure can spin them to the point of damage.

When done leave the cover/panel off for now til you re-boot and make sure all fans operate properly...

If you still have issues invest in a PCI addon sound card...they're not that costly.

Good Luck and take your time. Let us know...


p.s. If the IDE is your boot drive you may want to consider "cloning" it to the SATA and having that as your boot device...you may see a performance increase from the newer drive. Then just wipe the IDE and use it for storage.I figued it was heat as well.

I've cleaned out my fans, cover is off.

The thing i cant figure out though, is everything was fine until i rebooted. If it was a heat issue, shouldnt i have seen evidence of that before rebooting?

Not neccessarily...how old is the MBoard ? ?little over a YEAR and a half old.Onboard chips die...grab a sound card. You and your machine will both be happier...

my motherboard is a msi ms-7005. I KNOW that i need to get an IDE hard drive but im a bit confused on things like "Ata-100" and all of that. I'm thinking of buying this hard drive (http://e3wwwtest.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822144309). Can you please comment and tell me if that hard drive would be able to work on my computer? Much appreciatedThe only issue that might arise is whether your BIOS will support a 250GB drive. This Western Digital reference, Why is the FULL capacity of EIDE drives larger than 137GB (128GB BINARY) not recognized in Windows 2000/XP?, only mentions motherboards with certain Intel chipsets as not supporting drives larger than 137GB. Since your motherboard has an SiS CHIPSET, I GATHER your motherboard will recognize the full capacity.

Compaq Evo N800c
Pentium 4this mote book is briniging up the erro message that there is a non disk or disk error and to please replace and strike any key when ready
Please help me i do not know more of what went on before but just that when he turned it off then it said the above statement and there is no disk in it and i tried to install the Operating cd then it SAYS no hard drives located! help pleaseHi, this message usually is because the bios is looking for the wrong system storage location. in the bios there will be a choice of FLOPPY, CD, HARD DRIVE, NETWORK, for example as the message comes up when booting it could be that there is a cd set as 1st boot device and you have a different cd in the cddrive the bios looks at whats on the cd , then declares that it is a non system device or non system disk.
It looks LIKE you could have either damaged your hard drive and then lost what is on it including the system files that are required to boot from. can you see in the bios if the harddrive is showing in the list.
Have you started an installation of windows and then stopped before allowing it to finish?
When starting the Notebook can you see on the screen display a list of the boot process?
This usually starts with a lot of numbers and then the search for drives, the drives are found the displayed and the boot process CONTINUES.
HP/Compaq method of testing for a hard drive is as follows:-

to Test your hard drive

Use the following steps to test your hard drive:

1. Restart the notebook PC.

2.When the HP or Compaq logo screen displays, press the F10 key repeatedly. The System BIOS Options Menu will appear.

3. When the System BIOS Options Menu is displayed, select Tools using the arrow keys.
4. Select Hard Drive Test.

The hard drive test will run a short test and a long test. The entire test may take 45 - 60 minutes to complete. To properly diagnose the hard drive, the entire test must be run.

Try the test and tell us what happens,
do not change anything in the bios without asking or finding out what could be right or wrong.



Has this laptop gotten jolted lately ? ?
Dropped maybe ? ?

Check the manuf. site for instructions on the HDD access panel and carefully re-seat your HDD.

Remember to do this with all power sources removed.my laptop now says this error Dive does not support self test when i tried to go to the bios then tools then Hdd self test its not allowing me to do either the qick nor the long version of self tests it simply says for either that Dive does not support self test
what in the worl is this now?
oh yes my boss son said it had dropped during travel in the luggage but it was working ok after just making a bit of a noise..but then it just stopped and started saying the NON disk disk error message please help pity he did not try for an insurance damage assessment and get it replaced probably to LATE now, any noise from a laptop or notebook sounds like trouble, have a look at the connections for the harddrive, battery, etc see if there is something loose or broken. even if you can swap with another harddrive to eliminate the drive, the cooling fan also could be damaged causing overheating, there are not many components that are capable of making a noise, repairs to notebooks are about the same expense as buying a new one. Quote from: patio on June 17, 2007, 08:07:58 AM

Has this laptop gotten jolted lately ? ?
Dropped maybe ? ?

Check the manuf. site for instructions on the HDD access panel and carefully re-seat your HDD.

Remember to do this with all power sources removed.

Hey Everyone.
I was cleaning out my old computer, and I took out the RAM(Cause I was bored) and I stuck it back in and closed everything up. When I plugged everything in and turned the computer on it started to BEEP.
I then turned the computer off. Unplugged everything, opened it up, took the RAM out again and stuck it back in "blah blah blah" but when I turned it on it worked.
I was WONDERING if everything is fine now? Probably so. You likely had a ram stick not properly seated. And of course, you USED ESD PRECAUTIONS, didn't you?Yeah I set everything up on a Wood Table. I have cleaned it like 100 TIMES. Maybe not that many.. It was really dusty..

I had raid issues with a raid 10 (intel) setup, so I reformatted and went to AHCI mode with 2 25O gig DRIVES. All is fine at that POINT, HOWEVER after the install I connected a third drive and it shows in bios and in windows under harware profile, but it doesn't show in 'MY computer' nor can I access it. In hardware it shows as volume1, which was the old raid setup.

My question is: can I access the drive through DOS and format it, and some help on doing this would be greatly appreciated

Thanks When you GO to 'my computer' and right click and choose 'Manage',
Then you click on 'Disk Management' what shows up there ?I resolved the issue, using disk management

Thanks for the help

Is there some where we can verify compatibility when building a COMUTER?


The following is very frustrating, please try and give advice.

I can not install the D-Link DWL G520 in the P965 Neo Motherboard.
When I try the PC freezes after XP Pro has finished booting and I can do nothing but reset the PC, if I remove the G520 all is OK. I have been to the MSI update site and have INSTALLED the latest ver of Bios, 1.90 and I have also updated the latest ver of G520 drivers. I have no antivirus nor firewall running and I have disabled all startup programs in msconfig, I have also disabled the onboard Lan in the Bios.
I have tried every way I can think of to install this card but nothing works, I have uninstalled the G520 drivers and when I check hardware devices ,NETWORK Adapters in safe mode I still see G502 drivers and two files called "Packet scheduler #2 and Packet scheduler #3 ", these files can not be removed in safe mode and do not appear in regular mode

I see on the internet that many people are having the same problem but no one seems to have a fix, they seem to think there is incompatibility in the chip sets of these two products, and that there is no possible fix, if that is so would you please let me KNOW and I'll just get another Wireless lan, and I would like to know which one will work with this MSI motherboard.

Thanks
BrandyI would say that if others are experiencing the same problem you, then the wish thing to do is take the card back and get another brand. It will save you hours of pain and a massive headache trying to make something work that may never work.

Alan <><

After moving my computer to a different location, it will not power up. I have checked power cord, and outlet. Push on/off BUTTON and nothing happens. It is an older PIII HP model. Any suggestions?you have a BAD power supply. pull it out, go to compusa and tell them you need a new ONE. they'll point you in the right direction. price should be between 20 and 30 dollarsThank you silencer rpm's. I will TRY it. ghIf your still having probs just IM me on aim.

Hello, I am building a computer, and I set it all up, got RAM and HDD hooked up, put in the 8600gtx set the jumpers, and pluged everything in to the 500watt pwr supply, which is more than enough for the few components im using. The problem is, i cant get any display with the moniter. Also, i tried putting in an old PCI video card, too check if the 8600 was faulty, and i still got no BIOS or any hint of recognition. Im wondering if there is some Jumper or cable i didnt connect correctly. I did plug in the power to the video card, so i know its not that. Im just so frustrated because if i could only get the BIOS up i could get everything working from there.

If anyone has any idea whats wrong, please HELP! And please dont TELL me that the MotherBoard is faulty, because i cant return it now -_-I had this problem a few times myself on new builds*

1st. you must have the power led wires connected from the case to the motherboard. "usually a white & green wire" one's neg the other is positive.

connect the reset switch too.

the system/ psu will look and act dead if the case wires are not connected to the mobo.

did you have these connected ? Also,, make sure you never mess around with your ram sticks with any power cord connected to your case (unplug the power cord always before fingering inside) *Ok i have them plugged in, i may have them facing the wrong way though, im going to try switching them around, ill getback to you after thats done (i wasnt sure how important those were so i went through it quikly..)Quote from: Eppinizer on June 17, 2007, 04:00:59 PM

Ok i have them plugged in, i may have them facing the wrong way though, im going to try switching them around, ill getback to you after thats done (i wasnt sure how important those were so i went through it quikly..)

A switches orientation does not matter.

My computer is about 2001 it is a PC and I have my own hard drive in it. Until recently the computer has worked without any kind of issues. I CURRENTLY dual boot Linux Ubuntu and Windows XP. Recently I installed a 5 1/4" floppy drive using appropriate cables and the all of a sudden the computer won't EVEN READ the hard drive so it wont boot. Does anyone know whats wrong? I'm kind of under the gun here so any suggestions or help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.do you get power to your HD? if you do check the settings on the drive. If thats ok then go into the bios and try to detect the drive.I don't have a ton of experience with 5 1/4 floppy drives but could it be a jumper setting between drives conflicting?Remove the 5 1/4 drive. Does the system boot now? If so, check your jumpers/cabling/BIOS setting and reinstall.

Alan &LT;><

Hi, I have a Dell Dimension 4600 with no upgrades what so EVER. 512 MB Ram, 2.4 GHz and all of that good stuff. I was looking to buy a video card for casual gaming. I looked in my owners manual and it says I have 1 AGP slot and 3 PCI slots. I was wondering which video card ranging from $50-$100 would be best for me. I mostly play HL2 counter strike 1.6

So far I've found this ONE:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814141057
this one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102410
and this one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814136008

I was also wondering which card, if any, are compatible with my computer, because when I was reading some of the reviews over these video cards, people were TALKING about slots other than AGP or PCI ones that I do not know of. Thanks for your time and patience for reading my problem.

Ohh and also the current video card I have now is 'Intel Extreme Graphics 2'.This is what u are looking for.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130076

Not only is it very powerful when overclocked, but its one of the best cards your PSU can handle.Oh, wow, thanks! Is there any others out there that might be a little bit CHEAPER? If not then this one will be my best bet.I must say, that is one good deal and a great card too.
Looking on Newegg, I see a lot of 7600GS cards for AGP around that price, and EVGA is one of the better brands too.
My advice is to GO with that card, it's within your budget with the rebate.Go newegg ! !Ohh, alright. Looks like that one is the one then. Thank you all for your input and time and patience! Yall rock.

For a normal Portable Flash Drive, what is the best file system for it. NTFS, FAT or FAT32.
I'm wondering which one is the best choice for best performance of the drive.
I've tried google but I couldn't find anything useful...

ThanksNTFS is a "journaling" file system which means it does many more read and writes doing the same thing....

Therefore the drive may not last as long.

But if You're STUBBORN here's how to do it.

Personally i just stick with FAT32I vote FAT32, too. Based on the flash drives I've purchased, FAT seems to be the default format, the format when new. I have three flash drives, one a U3 drive. I formatted the two regular ones FAT32. I either forgot to format the U3 drive as FAT32 or hesitated because I was unsure of whether it was safe to format that one. And, now that I've installed some U3 programs on it, I may just leave it as is.
soybean, how do you feel about the U3 drives? I just got a couple the other night and although I can see the usefulness of the included software, it bugged me (and I don't feel like I need it), so I used the removal tool.I vote FAT32 as well.
NTFS is slower on smaller volumes and will wear out your drive faster vs. FAT32.
My drives have always come formatted as FAT as well.Quote from: CBMATT on June 17, 2007, 11:49:52 AM

soybean, how do you feel about the U3 drives? I just got a couple the other night and although I can see the usefulness of the included software, it bugged me (and I don't feel like I need it), so I used the removal tool.

And another question, is FAT32 more reliable or what?

FAT32 is the way to go.

I'm not the most hardware savy PERSON out there and am looking to buy a new notebook and was wondering which RAM configuration is faster,
or is the difference not going to be noticable?

- 2GB DDR2 SDRAM at 667MHZ, 2 DIMM

or

- 2GB Shared Dual CHANNEL DDR2 SDRAM at 667MHz

same thing...so the shared dual channel and the 2 DIMM are the exact same, just different wording, or speed WISE they are the same?2 dimm ddr2 would be two sticks running in dual channel
so it is just different wording for the same thing.hmmm... so is the one worded with dual channel only 1 STICK running of of dual channel while the 2 DIMM is 2 sticks? or are they both 2 sticks?they are both 2 different sticks. you can't have dual channel with one stick of ram.Thank you for clearing things up.

Anyone ever have this problem? My sister has a computer that was entering an endless loop at startup and would freeze or shut itself down every time. So I formatted the entire hardrive and reinstalled Windows XP Home. I flashed the BIOS with the latest update. Everything worked fine and I had no PROBLEMS when rebooting the computer the first day.

However, after leaving the computer turned off for the night, I booted it to continue with updates etc. and the computer froze right at the CMOS screen. I then attempted to restart it and the same thing happened accept it went a little further in the boot process. Finally after the eighth or ninth try, it booted up and worked fine and rebooted with no problems. But after leaving it shut off the next night, the problem occured all over again. If I leave it turned off for any large LENGTH of time like TWENTY four hours, the computer struggles to bootup. The time is correct so I am wondering if this could still be the battery or not. Any ideas?

THXMaybe the hard drive is dying.Free diagnostics can be downloaded at the appropriate drive maker's site. sometimes a hard drive can have trouble starting from cold due to mechanical problems such as lubricant drying out or sticking heads; if it boots it will OFTEN run all day, but shut it down overnight and it won't start again.
Thx. That might explain the clicking noises I hear whien it tries to boot. I'll get another hardrive and see how things go.Definite hard drive problem. You are right to replace it.

Alan <>< If it's dried lubricant, sometimes changing orientation, for example putting the drive on its side for about 30 minutes can allow sufficient to flow to the bearings to allow startup. Then one can recover data before trashing it.
A new hard drive did the trick. Thank you everyone.

Also, thanks for the handy tip contrex.

Uriel,

Nice of you to stop by and let US know what worked...stop by again.

I AM A IT ADMIN AT CONSTRUCTION COMPANY. I HAVE POWER TREE 600VA 30 UPS IN 30 SYSTEMS. WHEN THE POWER GOES OFF MY CLIENTS ARE NOT GOING TO OFF THERE SYSTEMS AND THE UPS. ACTUALLY OF THIS REASON MY UPS ARE RECENTLY GOING TO DAMAGE.
PLS TELL ME WHAT AM I HAVE TO ? I CAN MAIL TO THEM TO OFF THERE UPS. BUT I DON'T NO HOW EXPLAIN IT TO THEM. PLS GIVE ME YOU'LL ADVICE FOR THIS
Mail them or e-mail them and explain that when the power goes off they have 5 to 10 MINUTES to properly SAVE their data and shut down their machines....

They don't need to or shouldn't turn off the UPS units...just their computers.

Hope this helps.


p.s. Turn off the capslock

I am buying a Asus r1f, because I need a tablet pc that can decently handel graphics and I was told that asus is one of the best out there for the money and being a college STUDENT I found one at a decent price. The problem is that the computer only has a 1.6 gig intel core 2 DUO processor. I really need something more like 1.8 intel core 2 duo but all models with a 1.8 or above are come with a 600 US dollar higher price tag. Can I just BUY a 1.6 computer and later swap the processor for a 1.8 or higher maybe? Can I play a game like WOW on that machine just in case or will that give me problems?I do know a little about computers and can add ram swap hard drives and my dad is an Electircal Engineer and I am going for a degree in computer science I just dont know enough yet, I guess I will eventually learn, GO School!!, heh.
Any sugestions or comments greately apreciated.Quote from: rmedjr on June 18, 2007, 02:44:08 AM

I am buying a Asus r1f, because I need a tablet pc that can decently handel graphics and I was told that asus is one of the best out there for the money and being a college student I found one at a decent price. The problem is that the computer only has a 1.6 gig intel core 2 duo processor. I really need something more like 1.8 intel core 2 duo but all models with a 1.8 or above are come with a 600 US dollar higher price tag. Can I just buy a 1.6 computer and later swap the processor for a 1.8 or higher maybe? Can I play a game like WOW on that machine just in case or will that give me problems?I do know a little about computers and can add ram swap hard drives and my dad is an Electircal Engineer and I am going for a degree in computer science I just dont know enough yet, I guess I will eventually learn, GO School!!, heh.
Any sugestions or comments greately apreciated.

Can I just buy a 1.6 computer and later swap the processor for a 1.8 or higher maybe?

Can I play a game like WOW on that machine just in case or will that give me problems?

I have a newly constructed PC and I tried to test run it; switched on the power but no signal is transmitted to the monitor, it does not perform the normal “power on self test (post)”. Interestingly, my dvd drive’s led light was always on and blinks. I pressed the button to open it but the device does not open. Another thing is that I tried to switch off the pc by pressing its power button off but the pc could not shutdown, I just cut the power supply thru the extension cord. After a few minutes of test run, I switched it off from the AVR and checked the heatsink; it’s not HOT and temperature is considerably just normal, no sign of overheating. Am afraid I had an erroneous connector settings that might damaged my pc’s motherboard and affecting other components, hopefully not, what do you think??greatly appreciate and grateful to whatever help offered, tnx

M-BOARD-945gzm-s2 Gigabyte
PROCESSOR-Intel P4 HT, 800mhz FSB, 3.2ghz
RAM-DDR2 533mhz 1gb
HDD-WD 80gb SATA
Optical Drive-LG Multi DVD Rewriter

gross_earnings
helppp, please!!!!thanks so much...

gross_earnings

Any details on the erroneous connection issue ? ?

I would remove all components from the case...yes it's a pain but worth it.
Place the MBoard on a rubber mat or a piece of cardboard...
Then hook up only the following :
PSU
Vid Card
Monitor
1 stick of RAM
CPU and Fan
Mouse and Keyboard.

See if it posts...if so add one component at a time and re-boot each time til you find the culprit.

P.s. Did you REMEMBER to use the MBoard standoffs when assembling ? ?Quote from: patio on August 27, 2007, 03:07:30 PM

Any details on the erroneous connection issue ? ?

I would remove all components from the case...yes it's a pain but worth it.
Place the MBoard on a rubber mat or a piece of cardboard...
Then hook up only the following :
PSU
Vid Card
Monitor
1 stick of RAM
CPU and Fan
Mouse and Keyboard.

See if it posts...if so add one component at a time and re-boot each time til you find the culprit.

P.s. Did you remember to use the MBoard standoffs when assembling ? ?

yes, but unfortunately i had only 4 brass standoffs used, but am sure there was standoffs beneath the motherboard. tnx for the quick help..
anyhow i will start dismantling it and follow exactly your suggestion..

both of my builds have had the same initial problems at first, both times came down to the case wires being screwed up on connections to the mobo..or a cpu which was not properly seated .....having a positive wire on the wrong pin when it should be the negative ? After doing exactly what Patio said and still having issues .....
did you use the 'stock" intel fan/heatsink with that Pent 4 > use artic 5 or the strips included on the cpu Do any fans come on at all..... ?

Did you have issues getting it secured to your mobo (did you have to force it much?)

Using only 4 standoffs when you should have at least 8-9 on there is something to look at ...........

Did you check the ram compatibility for that mobo (is your brand of memory recommended for use in the 945gzm-s2 Gigabyte ?

it is usually something dumb that has happened , don't think you failed just yet, like I used to think ~

EDIT:I GOOGLED it.Found the driver.Delete the topic as you wish.Sometimes we are just that GOOD at SOLVING things...

Ok here goes, major issues and should have been so simple

I have the following on a PC

Onboard Radeon x200 128mb, MOTHERBOARD is a ms 7093

So got a 512 Geforce 7300 PCI-E x16 which is correct for the pc.

Plugged in PCI-E card loaded, blank screen after it says windows loading. So i assume card is ok, as it does SHOW imaes load windows etc. Bios did not have disable onbaord graphics so i went into windows and disabled the card. Turned off pc inserted PC-E Geforce card and BOOTED, blank screen still!

So i assumed it was REFRESH rates, so tried safe mode boot, safe mode does not work ! looks like it loads minimal drivers but freezes! So i take out new card try old card, guess what? you got it blank screen, probably becuase i disabled it in windows seeing as it worked before. So now i cannot get in windows with any boot options, cannot change refresh rates, cannot enable onboard card and cannot get new one to work.

So any ideas? Is there a msdos command to enable hardware? or change refresh rate? im on the verge of a FORMAT and re-install windows, but with all my stuff it would take ages to get back.

Please advise if you can help....You need to leave out the new card and reset your BIOS to
defaults.

You can do this with your motherboard jumpers,or by removing
the CMOS battery for a couple of minutes.

Do-A-Read-Here

You may need to upgrade your BIOS to use the new Graphics card
but, that is between you and God.I never recommend BIOS upgrades.

I want to get a new video card. The one I have now is the nVidia GeForce 6150SE. It is integrated. I need a card that's good for GAMES. I am confused about the whole PCI/AGP/PCI-E thing. From what i could find, PCI is the oldest interface, AGP is newer and faster, and PCI-E is the newest and fastest interface. The computer is an HP Pavilion a6000n. It has 1 GB ram. The processor is an AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 4200+ 2.20 GHz. I am thinking about getting this card, it seems like a good deal.
http://www.factorydirect.ca/catalog/product_spec.php?pcode=AT0160

Is it compatible with my system?You need to find out what MBoard you have first so we can assist further...
DLoad install and run Everest Home.It appears that it has a PCIe slot

http://www.amazon.com/Pavilion-A6000N-Desktop-Processor-SuperMulti/dp/B000O5D43G

but you may need to get another power supply, because HP's traditionally ship with 250 or 300w units. The guy at the store said that it has a PCI-E slot when i bought it. How do i find out if i need a new power supply? I downloaded everest but when i go to motherboard under motherboard name it says unknown. Maybe it's because I have Vista?Look at the power supply and note the brand name and wattage.

Now go to the web site for that video card and see what it requires.

Compare and contrast, then post back.Before you go any further, shop around and think about your budget and how much video power you want.
Read the GPU FAQ (FAQ SECTION, then Hardware) to give yourself an overview of all but the newest cards.Visit eXtreme Power Supply Calculator Lite v2.5 for help in determining your power supply requirement. Would it be possible to make an SLI setup?Quote from: SovietGenius on May 25, 2007, 04:03:27 PM

Would it be possible to make an SLI setup?

Look at the power supply and note the brand name and wattage.

Now go to the web site for that video card and see what it requires.

Compare and contrast, then post back.

It's cheap

So which brands are more reliable?

Look for a known named brand, such as Antec, Akasa, Cooler master, Seasonic, Thermaltake, Zalman.

Quote from: Calum on June 08, 2007, 03:18:49 AM

Look for a known named brand, such as Antec, Akasa, Cooler master, Seasonic, Thermaltake, Zalman.

If you don't know much about something, please don't comment.

The brand name is not the most important thing to look for. I would say the most important thing is 'how much power the PSU gives'.

Quote from: Jess607 on June 08, 2007, 03:03:50 PM

Quote from: Calum on June 08, 2007, 03:18:49 AM

Look for a known named brand, such as Antec, Akasa, Cooler master, Seasonic, Thermaltake, Zalman.

If you don't know much about something, please don't comment.

The brand name is not the most important thing to look for. I would say the most important thing is 'how much power the PSU gives'.

I would say you're a very naive Newbie. Take your own advice and, "If you don't know much about something, please don't comment."

Certain brands have a reputation for higher quality. A cheap brand with a stated high power rating is quite likely to be less reliable than any quality brand of a lower power rating.

I would say the most important thing is 'how much power the PSU gives'.

The thing that name brands have in their favor is that they actually DO make great PSUs and I wouldn't trust a non name brand PSU, except for the low end, or even mainstream.

I want to get a new video card. The one I have now is the nVidia GeForce 6150SE. It is integrated. I need a card that's good for games. I am confused about the whole PCI/AGP/PCI-E thing. From what i could find, PCI is the oldest interface, AGP is newer and faster, and PCI-E is the newest and fastest interface. The computer is an HP Pavilion a6000n. It has 1 GB ram. The processor is an AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 4200+ 2.20 GHz. I am thinking about getting this card, it seems like a good deal.
http://www.factorydirect.ca/catalog/product_spec.php?pcode=AT0160

Is it compatible with my system?

If you have an 800W PSU that is a cheap knock-off and fails after a week, that's not better than a 400W PSU that gives you the right amount of power and lasts for years.
Agreed?

if you have a pci express (x16) slot on the mobo might i suggest http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150189 as i have it and i couldnt be happier runs all my games at full settings even fsaax8

I will get a higher quality PSU, i think it's worth the money.

It was an example, not a hard fact.
I can only give my own personal advice, which is to buy a named brand PSU with a good reputation rather than the cheapest you can find.

I'm basing my knowledge on other people's knowledge, true.
I have only a little experience as I am using a laptop.
But several family member's PCs have been the victim of a failed PSU, a cheap one.

If I can make an analogy - what would you choose, were you looking for a car - a named brand, such as Ford or Toyota, or something with bright colours and advertised as having a powerful engine, but with no brand?

You keep contradicting yourself, saying that a cheap PSU will not fail more than a branded one, but then saying you would get a branded one anyway.

I'd LOVE to see someone build their own car from "scratch".....

... and came to the conclusion that cheaper PSUs dont really fail on you more than more expensive PSU.

... Heck, u can build ur own car from scratch.

I say that I myself will buy a name-brand because there are no non-name brand PSUs that meet my amprage needs.

... because there are "less-known name-brands" which usually make great PSUs.

Just build your own power supply then. It sure would be no-name then.
Besides, building a power supply is much easier than building your own car from scratch.

Statements like this - that assume something to be fact, but is unproven - are just opinion.

I specifically said that while it may be possible to build a car, you cannot build a PSU.

Quote from: WillyW on June 14, 2007, 10:19:09 AM

Statements like this - that assume something to be fact, but is unproven - are just opinion.

You are right. Let me clerify.

The PSUs found in pre-built PCs, such as Dells and HPs are what I refer to as "non-name-brand". We actually don't know who manufacturers these PSUs and they are probably of the lowest Tier.

PSUs which are part of Tier 3 or Tier T are what I call "less-known-name-brand". They are usually pretty OK PSUs and if u find a powerful one it wouldnt be too bad of an idea to buy it.

You want proof that those power supplies wont fail on the first day?

I give u my personal experience that suggest so.

I've has cheap no-name brand PSUs fail on me dozens of times...

and I get them back up and running without any mess, and no, they did not blow up. Thats just a myth.

Most retailers use the cheapest PSUs possible. Dell constantly use 300w PSUs on their current machines.

Quote from: Jess607 on June 15, 2007, 12:31:45 PM

You want proof that those power supplies wont fail on the first day?

No.

Quote

I give u my personal experience that suggest so.

Right. Which is the basis for your opinion. If you want to back up and say that that is all that you are stating, that's fine.

Quote

I've has cheap no-name brand PSUs fail on me dozens of times...

I've read many times that they tend to fail. I'm glad you agree.

Quote

Most retailers use the cheapest PSUs possible. Dell constantly use 300w PSUs on their current machines.

And.... this is in referrence to .... what?

The fact that i put 1500$ in parts into a computer and then power it with a 20$ psu makes no sense to me.

Quote from: TehGerg on June 15, 2007, 01:12:01 PM

The fact that i put 1500$ in parts into a computer and then power it with a 20$ psu makes no sense to me.

How about buying a 1500$ PC and then controlling it with a 20$ mouse? Make sense to u?
There's not much difference.

Quote from: WillyW on June 15, 2007, 01:03:47 PM

Quote from: Jess607 on June 15, 2007, 12:31:45 PM

You want proof that those power supplies wont fail on the first day?

No.

Thats an interesting contradiction.

This is what u said before "We were talking about unproven statements used as fact."

So are u withdrawing your request for proof?

Quote from: WillyW on June 15, 2007, 01:03:47 PM

Quote

I give u my personal experience that suggest so.

Right. Which is the basis for your opinion. If you want to back up and say that that is all that you are stating, that's fine.

Wrong. Experience is NOT opinion, it is fact. And even if it was souly my opinion, it is still an opinion based of facts, not faith.

Quote from: WillyW on June 15, 2007, 01:03:47 PM

Quote

I've has cheap no-name brand PSUs fail on me dozens of times...

I've read many times that they tend to fail. I'm glad you agree.

Then all you have are opinions based on anecdotal evidence, which may have a high probability of being wrong.

And this time, they really are wrong.
My cheap no-name brand PSU only failed because it's fan broke

(which was my fault). After I replaced the fan, the PSU regained it's life and has been working ever since. 5 years and going. And its only one of my many cheap no-name brand PSUs that have never actually died.


Quote from: WillyW on June 15, 2007, 01:03:47 PM

Quote

Most retailers use the cheapest PSUs possible. Dell constantly use 300w PSUs on their current machines.

And.... this is in referrence to .... what?

This, "Aren't some of those big brand names using proprietary power supplies?".

No, it is not.

Quote

So are u withdrawing your request for proof?

Well, so far - you've offered nothing. It's up to you. If you want to state your opinion, fine. If you want anyone reading this to feel that you have even a modicum of knowing what you are talking about - then go for it.

Quote

Quote from: WillyW on June 15, 2007, 01:03:47 PM

Quote

I give u my personal experience that suggest so.

Right. Which is the basis for your opinion. If you want to back up and say that that is all that you are stating, that's fine.

Wrong. Experience is NOT opinion, it is fact. And even if it was souly my opinion, it is still an opinion based of facts, not faith.

".... it is still an opinion...."

Thought so.

Quote

Quote from: WillyW on June 15, 2007, 01:03:47 PM

Quote

I've has cheap no-name brand PSUs fail on me dozens of times...

I've read many times that they tend to fail. I'm glad you agree.

Then all you have are opinions based on anecdotal evidence, which may have a high probability of being wrong.

I forgot to say - these people that said these things - they are people that I feel do know what they are talking about. Search the forums here - you'll get a feel for it.

Quote

And this time, they really are wrong.
My cheap no-name brand PSU only failed because it's fan broke

Your fan broke dozens of times?

Alright, do to this reply, I will not be continuing this conversation

because I see that you are not even listening to me,

but just miss-representing everything I say.

It is an opinion BASED ON FACTS.

Maybe you should have your eyes checked.. or your sense of decency.

Quote

I forgot to say - these people that said these things - they are people that I feel do know what they are talking about. Search the forums here - you'll get a feel for it.

Thats completely un-fair.

You take these people's words over mine without any proof?

I know more than most people here about hardware.

My cheap no-name brand PSU only failed because it's fan broke

No, it never actually broke.

Alright, so all in all this conversation can be summed up by you not willing to take my word for anything, and you trying to make it seem as if I dont actually know what I am talking about

through miss-representation of what I say.
If you come out of the conclusion that I am wrong, and try to do this little hit-job

you tried to pull off, then you only need to be very ignorant to succeed.

And btw, your sentence structure cannot be more difficult to understand. Why so many spaces between each word?

cpu : Intel Pentium M Processor 740 (1.73GHz, 2MB L2
OS : Genuine Windows® XP Professional
RAM: 512mb ddr2 sdram
gpu : MOBILITYTM RADEON® X300 with 64MB DDR video memory

The above are my spec .....

Im looking to upgrade everything , with a few exceptions , My os , and dvd-rom , and mobo , i would LIKE a list of possible upgrades STARTING from the lowest cost to the most expensive and best performance .

Thanks in advance stix a member of the dark-blade

If you require any more information please dont Hesitate to ask thanks Your upgrade options with a laptop are very limited. You might be able to add some more RAM and a bigger hard drive and thats about it.Hey, it's stix!
Nice to see you here buddy!
Unfortunately deerpark is right - more RAM is a good choice, 1Gb would help for BF.
Your CPU is FINE, your graphics card is a bit dated now but there's nothing else you can do for it.
To find what RAM you need - crucial.com - they have a TOOL that tells you exactly what you have and what to buy.

yup,he's right!you can upgrade,but don't be dissapointed in the next few months coz everyday the technology of IT grow so faster until you just realize that your upgraded CPU are not able to HANDLE upcoming games... QUOTE from: Jess607 on September 04, 2007, 10:44:53 PM

And UPGRADING PCI graphics card will not improve PERFORMANCE at all, or at least not in a way that is possible to notice.

it is possible to REPAIR HDD?
where can i get free SOFTWARE that can fix HDD?

whats wrong with it?if it's only a small matter,try defrag the HDD,MAYBE u could use the disk check utilities inside the windows..1. start
2. run
3. chkdsk
4. enter

do that in your primary hard drive , after it has finished reboot . It will fix the errors on your Hard drive. I didn't actually want to go into this YET until the person had explained what was wrong , the lack of information is proving this to be difficult.when i open the computer an error occur...
then i choose to replace the HDD then in work...
maybe it has damage...
is there any way to repair it in order use it again?

hope you can help...What is this error... if you tell us we might be able to fix it...


You could try putting the windows disc in the computer.... REFORMATTING the computer