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My old Compaq Deskpro was working fine for about half a year, but a few weeks ago i tried to turn it on and it said "error loading operating system" so today ive been trying to reinstall xp. WELL its been running through set up it has been going real slow, been about 3 hours and it just now finished. There were a few times when somethin would pop up and say that it was unable to copy a certain file, so i pushed esc which let it continue. It had just finished and restarted, got to windows xp screen then STARTED going to the user accounts screen but then it blue screened. Said this exactly

Stop: c000021a {Fatal System Error}
The windows Logon process system process terminated unexpectedly with a status of Oxc0000135 (0x00000000 0x00000000).
The system has been shut down


Anyone know how to fix this, or what caused it? I had been messing iwth the hardrives, trying to hook up 2 to one comp. (took out the extra one before i tried reinstalling) and i also took the ram out of another one of my compaqs and put that in.... as well as took the battery out of it to reset BIOS PASSWORD (which of course i put back in before installing xp)What are the system specs of this machine ? ?
It may not be suited for XP...3 hours is a long time for an OS install...Also...

When doing the install, you should only have the necessary peripherals connected to your computer...monitor, mouse and keyboard. Disconnect everything else to INSURE a clean install if your computer meets the minimum system requirements for the operating system. This way, you can look for updated drivers for your other peripherals that may be causing the issue...after you get the OS installed.

First...list your specs as patio suggested...Quote from: Bontje on September 08, 2007, 04:06:12 PM

...There were a few times when somethin would pop up and say that it was unable to copy a certain file, so i pushed esc which let it continue...

Right. My Wireless LAN Adapter is USB. So is my printer. Whenever I try to print something from the internet (such as sheet music with Sibelius Scorch, different to simply clicking File-Print I can do that but need to press print button to get all sheet music). I have a problem, because I can't use my printer and Wireless Adapter at the same time, I think it overloads the USB or something. How can I fix this?If this is a desktop get a wireless PCI card to free up a USB port...

If it's a laptop well that's another issue.I think its because the USB can only SEND 1 (Including Sending and Recieving) signal back and forth at a time, and not 2 signals at a time (Using the internet and printing it at the same time). Quote from: Chilly on June 11, 2007, 02:28:39 PM

I think its because the USB can only send 1 (Including Sending and Recieving) signal back and forth at a time, and not 2 signals at a time (Using the internet and printing it at the same time).

I jsut looked at my computer and it LOOKS really dirty. I haven't checked the inside yet but the fans and PSU look dusty. Whats the best WAY of cleaning the out side and the inside??A can of compressed air available at any computer store works well...Q-Tips and rubbing alcohol as well for the stubborn stuff.
Remember to remove all power sources whenever working inside the case and take anti-static precautions....

For the outside i use Windex and lint-free cloths.Thanks do you recommend just setting it on a kitchen wood table?Sure.A hard, flat, elevated surface would probably be more convenient for you. I would also suggest wearing a face mask, which can be purchased at any hardware store and many general department STORES. The first time I cleaned out my computer, I was hacking up phlem and black stuff for a week. No joke.

And do not use a vacuum cleaner!Yeah I AGREE I just cleaned mine out and I swear I sucked in a Dustball..Uhh Nasty.. || Stealth || ........ Just a tip when blowing the dust off the fan (s) ........ use something non-metalic to stop the fan blades from spinning when the compressed air is directed at it ....... A bamboo or plastic CHOPSTICK works very well. Also be sure and make sure the heat sink is cleaned well to remove any accumulated dust.

dl65

Hey everyone.
I just finished putting my computer into a new case and new motherboard (MIS p965 neo-f).
My problem is that the computer hangs after post. for example my keyboard works (both usb or ps/2) while playing with the bios but after that the lights turn off on usb keyboard and i cant use it to select safe mode/safe mode with networking/start normally etc. and the computer counts down to select "star windows normally" but when it hits 0 the screen just stays there with the 0 there and the choices. using a ps/2 keyboard I at least can select one here but after hitting enter the computer stays at that screen like with the usb keyboard. I tried only plugging in the keywoards (one at a time not both at the same time) but it didnt change anything.
I tried switching out all ramsticks but no change and i tried decreasing the power to see if it was due to a shortage by putting in my old gfix card and removing the sound card but no difference.
This suituation screams MOTHERBOARD PROBLEM but i cant figure out what to do about it.
If you changed MBoards and used a HDD that had Windows already on it your chances of it booting properly are slim and none...

I will assume this is Win2K or newer because of the boot options you LISTED...

Do you have a Windows CD that says Microsoft all over it with fancy holograms ? ?Quote from: PATIO on June 11, 2007, 04:34:20 PM

If you changed MBoards and used a HDD that had Windows already on it your chances of it booting properly are slim and none...

I will assume this is Win2K or newer because of the boot options you listed...

Do you have a Windows CD that says Microsoft all over it with fancy holograms ? ?

are you sure the hd would have issues changing moboos? that doesnt make sense to me...

my comp only has 256 of ram on it , can i add more to it does any one know please.
Yes, most probably.
Go to http://www.crucial.com and use their free memory ADVISOR tool.
This will tell you what kind of memory you need and how much you can get.
You can then either buy the memory from them or from another retailer.
HOPE this helps.thanks calum will go take a look at the web site. You're welcome, hope you find what you're looking for.
More RAM will make a big DIFFERENCE if you only have 256Mb now.
Post back if you have any more questions.

I have a laptop is an ACER...and I was USING the internet doing my mail and all of are sudden it shut down by itslef and when I on it again nothing happen...so What would I do?Quote from: lita on May 06, 2007, 09:53:35 PM

so What would I do?

Quote from: lita on May 06, 2007, 09:53:35 PM

so What would I do?

Provide a lot more info.

What OS do you have?
What are your specs (RAM, video card, etc.)?
What protection programs do you have?
What do you mean by "nothing happens"? Does your computer not get any power at all?
When this happened, were you using the battery or was it plugged in?
Have you tried powering up with just the battery or by taking the battery out and plugging it into the wall?

Unfortunately, we're not magicians, so we need as much info as possible to avoid tons of guesswork.

WILL A LAPTOP SCREEN FROM A IBM 20 SERIES FIT A A30P??

Quote from: patio on June 11, 2007, 03:54:25 PM

Full RETAIL----ONE machine period.

getting registry code 19 error message WINDOW xp pro how do I fix it. I tried 3 well known registrt cleaners..Thanks iin advance for helpSome information on how to fix this here http://www.daniweb.com/techtalkforums/thread980.htmlquite a common problem if you have removed or changed you cd/dvd recording/burning software, it can screw up the registry try microsoft here:-http://support.microsoft.com/kb/314060,

or this

this software patch from here can solve the problem sometimes, it was aimed at windows XP, but the problem is still there in Vista unfortunately
go to this web page

http://www.dougknox.com/xp/scripts_desc/xp_cd_dvd_fix.htm

and Download

XP_CD-DVD-Fix.zip

and save this file to your hard drive. Navigate to where you saved it and double click the file to extract the contents. Locate the EXE file you extracted and double click it. A confirmation dialog will appear when the script is done. You may need to reboot for the change to take effect.

This utility is only intended for Windows XP. You may need Administrator level access to use this utility. If you do not have Administrator level access, the program will say it is finished, but will not have made any changes.


this is another way you have to open regedit and change this key
click start, then enter regedit

first back up the entire registry.

then look for this key

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4D36E965-E325-11­CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}

I am sorry but if the key is not there you will have to create it, then you will see the drive again,

Apparently it seems that this is an AGE old fix for even XP systems. If you venture to the registry key above by doing the following steps:

Click on the start menu.

If this is a Vista machine in the search box type in “regedit” without the quotation marks.

Maximize the HKLM and then go ahead and browse until you reach the key listed above.

In the right panel you’ll see something along the lines of “UpperFilter” and “LowerFilter” you want to click on each “filter” key and hit delete. Click yes when it asks to confirm if you wish to delete the key.

Restart Windows.

http://www.dougknox.com/xp/scripts_desc/xp_cd_dvd_fix.htm

Restore CD/DVD Drives to Explorer

XP_CD-DVD-Fix.zip

Usage: Download XP_CD-DVD-Fix.zip and save this file to your hard drive. Navigate to where you saved it and double click the file to extract the contents. Locate the EXE file you extracted and double click it. A confirmation dialog will appear when the script is done. You may need to reboot for the change to take effect.

This utility is only intended for Windows® XP. You may need Administrator level access to use this utility. If you do not have Administrator level access, the program will say it is finished, but will not have made any changes.

Based on CDGONE.REG


HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4D36E965-E325-11­CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}

Apparently it seems that this is an age old fix for even XP systems. If you venture to the registry key above by doing the following steps:

1. Click on the start menu.
2. If this is a Vista machine in the search box type in “regedit” without the quotation marks.
3. Maximize the HKLM and then go ahead and browse until you reach the key listed above.
4. In the right panel you’ll see something along the lines of “UpperFilter” and “LowerFilter” you want to click on each “filter” key and hit delete. Click yes when it asks to confirm if you wish to delete the key.
5. Restart Windows.
6. Let me know if this works. MANY THANKS TO ALL, ILL TRY IT TONIGHTHi Guys, I tried all your idea but it still won t read the drive, lets me tell u what happens and maybe you will see the problem.
Awhile back i loaded a cheap web cam, program, 1/2 way through it died, after some investigation i fiund that A) it was a mac profram not a pc that when i got the code 19,SO, beibg the genius that I am I thought that by loading a new dvd/cd/burer and all, that i would fool it WRONG si back at square one....HELPRepair Install of XP

You will need an official XP CD to do this. I suggest reading it thru completely before starting and print out a copy for a reference guide.

If done properly all your Programs and data will remain intact.

Obviously if not done properly you risk losing everything...thanks for the answer, BUT cd/dvd drive does not work because of registry error 19Quote from: oneten43 on June 10, 2007, 02:53:19 PM

thanks for the answer, BUT cd/dvd drive does not work because of registry error 19

I was wondering if there is big difference in performance between:
Amd SEMPRON 2800+ and AMD ATHLON 2700++.
Would it be worth upgrading?
Thank You.Nothing you will notice...

IMHO...If your motherboard supports it...I'd recommend a Pentium 4 processor over both of those AMD CPUs.I've never SEEN a motherboard that supports both an AMD processor and an Intel one ? Did I miss something ?Maybe I should clarify myself...

If you're upgrading from one AMD to the other...you really won't notice much of a difference.

However, if you have, or wish to purchase a new motherboard...P4 would be the better choice over those AMD processors.DeltaSlaya---->ReadThis

Howdy There Steve.

RobertThanks for that link, Robert...

To be perfectly honest...I wasn't aware of that...or maybe I was, but had forgotten...who knows?

Anyway...glad to see you on top of things here...

BTW..."Howdy" RIGHT back atcha!I just wanted to get quick and cheep fix, but I will be switching to Intel soon. I am going to build new system with one of Core 2 Duo processors probablly E6850.
Thanks for response. You're welcome...

Good choice, BTW...

I recently built a new computer with: core 2 duo e6600 processor, p6n PLATINUM msi mother board, evga 8800gts, 2 gbs corsair ram, a dvd writer, dvd rom, cooler master cases with two 120mm fans. I installed SPEED fan to see my temperatures, and this is what i got when i was idling:
-Temp1:37C
-Temp2:45C
-HD0-44C
-Core0-42C
-Core1-41C

When running a high performance game, the readings are:
-Temp1:43C
-Temp2:50C
-HD0-50C
-Core0-57C
-Core1-55C

I was wondering if these are normal temperatures?

There is also something that says Temp3- -128C, and it stays that way, but im guessing thats nothing because nothing is -128Cthose high usage core TEMPS are a little high. With a good cooler you should see load temps around 40 C.

60c is hot, 55c is warm, and 50c is safe.When you say cooler, do you mean a fan?I didn't notice my CPU temp on the 2 benchmarks I ran this past weekend but, my cpu at idle is anywhere from 23-24C 78 f

I have very good airflow in my case, artic 5 and you know the zalman.Those core temps might be off also because of the program doesn't always read it correctly. The temps are kinda high i am running my core 2 at around 3 GHZ and i am at the same temps but i have a bit better cooling in my system. Double check the thermal compound to make sure that has good coverage.

Some thermal compound also needs a burn in time of 2 weeks to settle and temps then are a bit better. Normally drops them up to 5cQuote from: totempoll on June 25, 2007, 02:26:13 PM

When you say cooler, do you mean a fan?

I bought a Microsoft Wireless Desktop Receiver set with an optical mouse and keyboard. Upon originally installing the set over a year ago, the connection often cut out: the mouse WOULD stop responding, or the keyboard would hang up and repeat a letter over and over again. Then it would hang up on backspace and wipe out everything I had written. I just reinstalled WINDOWS on a new hard drive recently and have been having no problems until recently. The green "connected" light on the receiver goes out every time there's a hangup. I've moved the receiver several feet away from the CPU and monitor with no effect. I've tried moving the receiver to different USB ports; while it often this seems to work initially, the same problem returns eventually. I've used the reconnect buttons on the keyboard and mouse, but that doesn't help. I've replaced batteries, but that doesn't help. Any IDEAS? Anyone else having similar problems? Is this just a curse of wireless EQUIPMENT?

Running XP SP2
Have run both Intellipoint 2.0 and 5.2 with no difference.

SPECS:

AMD Athlon 64 3700+
ASUS A8N-SLI Motherboard (Socket 939)
Twinmos DDR-DIM 1024MB RAM
Radeon X800GT 256MB graphics card
2x HDD's (cant remember)
- HDD Nr. 1: 80GB (Main HDD, Running WinXP)
- HDD Nr. 2: 200GB (4 Partitions, for music, films, programs, games, etc. etc.)

Yesterday my computer froze while I was listening to music (Winamp) and playing World of Warcraft (jea..).
My computer had been running somewhat slower lately, and I figured it was because I had installed a few programs and not defragged or run any anti-virus/spyware removing stuff, so I downloaded a few fix-me-up programs and removed a bunch of stuff that was clogging up (two trojans and a bunch of spyware).
After trying to CTRL+ALT+DEL to see if I could kill the process that had frozen up, with no luck, since the computer didnt respond whatsoever, I just held the power-button in for 5 sec, then turned it back on. When it came on it got to the initial "hi this is your motherboard showoff pic" and froze again. I held the power-button in for 5 sec again and let it stay off for a minute. Next time I started I figured I'd just check the BIOS setup to see if any fans were going berserk, but when I finally (luckily) got into the BIOS the buttons started overlapsing each other, and if I tried to jump between menus (power >> advanced >> boot >> etc) it responded every now and then but I couldnt do anything cause everything was overlapsing everything else.

Thats when I figured maybe my LACK of cleaning the comp was the problem, so I took everything out, got all the dust and crap out, and put it all back in. This time when I booted up I got as far as to Windows, where I figured I had fixed the problem, but just incase I CTRL+ALT+DEL'd and killed all the crap processes that were running in the background eating up my memory, but then it froze up after a few minutes, while I was listening to Winamp.
I switched it off and booted it a few times, a few times I barely got past the initial checks, once or twice I got as far as to loading Windows, with the blue dots that show the loading freezing up and new ones APPEARING overlapsing the other ones.

So, I decided to try to FIND the problem, first off I disconnected both the HDDs to see if I could just GET into the BIOS setup and it wouldnt freeze like it did, but yet again it froze. So the problem wasnt there.. Now I tried to rearrange everything connected to PCI/PCI-E ports, moving everything one down. Still nothing, so I took out my RAM and tried my old Twinmos RAM, exactly the same, only 512MB, and it did the exact same thing, so I doubt the problem is there, so I'm guessing its either the motherboard or the CPU. Incase you might be thinking its the PS (powersupply) which it indeed might be, I just got a new one (400W) a few months ago because I managed to fry my old one somehow. Right now I'm going to try my graphics card in a friends computer, hopefully it'll turn out to be that, but I highly doubt it, seeing as how I can get into the BIOS and occassionaly Windows (for a few seconds).

My question is basically, does anyone have any ideas what I could be forgetting to do/check, what the problem might be whatsoever, or maybe someone has had this problem?

The only thing I have forgotten to mention is that my Chipset fan stopped a few months ago, so I put a cooling-rib (that fit) which I had lying around on instead. When I check the temps on the computer now, the CPU and MB are at around 36 degrees Celsius (96-97 degrees Fahrenheit).


Any ideas/thoughts? I just tried moving my RAM between all the four different slots and now it wont even get as far as into the BIOS, no beep, no nothing.. Poo.I also remembered another detail. Back when I was checking to see if I could find where the problem was, I was looking around in the BIOS and I figured I'd might as well just try clocking my CPU down around 100-150mhz, but the strange thing is, I couldnt adjust anything via BIOS, the processor specs were all grayed out, and I'm sure it has been possible to modify/clock it before when I've been in the BIOS looking around, I mean that atleast the option to modify anything at all wasnt grayed out.Man you have a case on your back. I'm an AMD fan also but what you are goung throu its not your processor at all, thinking in terms what coild be wrong and afte doing all debbuging i think its time for you to test your mainbord it might b damanged.


Are you sure you dont have win32.ata self executable. its a virus that disable all the options. I had it i could not even shut down my PC the options were unavailable.Pretty sure I dont have any viruses at all, I try to do a virus scan every month or so, but thanks for the tip.

Now my comp won't start at all, I mean, I can switch it on, all the fans start spinning, everything looks "normal", tried booting without any HDD's or RAM in, and I'm not even getting any beeps, same with RAM and HDDs connected, no BIOS startup-beep, no nothing.. I'm quite sure my problem lies somewhere on the motherboard, probably something that has short-circuited.

Guess I'll be ordering a new MB tonight..man my english sucks i'm portugues.
Look i think your mainboard is giving trouble but before you order a new motherboard test for your proccessor on a different mainboard but hey its hard core to find ur mainboard around ne.i dunno, i'm pretty sure it's the mobo. My mom's computer (an HP, if it matters ^^^) died on her and after I switched it out with another HP board, It not only worked fine, but faster than before.Yea, I've ordered a new MB, hopefully it'll be here in 2-3 days, so I can try it out. Wish me luck ^o^

The power supply is ok, the hard drive is spinning, the fan on the mother board comes on and stays on but I have a blank monitor. I fear the motherboard is shot. I have an ACER that is less than a year old any tips would be appreciated.Is the machine getting to the POST?

If not it could be a RAM issue...

What are the specs of your system? CPU, OS, memory etc...

Did you make any changes to the system prior to this happening? HARDWARE or softwareThe COMPUTER was running when the monitor just went dark. Noone was operating the machine at the time. I could hear the fan on the motherboard on and that was it. Now when I turn on the computer the fan comes on immediately and I can feel the hd spinning but no signal ever gets to the monitor, it justs keeps blinkingDo you get any system beeps when you try to start the computer up?no beepsDoes the monitor power indicator light up? Have you TRIED a different monitor?the monitor power light blinks, the same it would if I had the monitor on while the cpu was powered down. I have tried another monitor without luck.What happened prior to this ? ?

Any missing details ? ?Are you able to/Have you tried a known working GPU?Quote from: tlw9107 on June 11, 2007, 08:24:09 AM

The power supply is ok, the hard drive is spinning, the fan on the mother board comes on and stays on but I have a blank monitor.

I bought a new power supply, it did not work either.

Hello Everyone,

I have been trying to hunt down a Windows 2000 driver for my HP Omnibook XE2 DC Laptop, which I downgraded from XP Pro to Windows 2000 due to the fact that Windows XP Pro crawled with the PIII 500Mhz and 192MB Ram.

Before upgrading to XP from NT4, to 2000, then XP, I had the modem working under Windows 2000.

I downloaded the NT4 driver DIRECTLY from HP thinking that the NT4 driver MAY WORK under Windows 2000 (NT5), but it causes the system to FREEZE up in which I have to USE a software tool called Goback 3 to revert to a previous healthy boot state.

Searched Driverguide and found some drivers there, but those also did not work. Also searched Windrivers with no luck.

Anyone know of more driver sites or have a HP Omnibook XE2 DC running Windows 2000 to share a Modem driver with me.

The integrated Modem is a ESS Maestro-3.COMM

Thanks,

Dave

A while back I had two hdd's setup, one as master and the other as slave. Upon restarting my COMPUTER nothing would load, so I simply removed the primary drive and SET the slave as master.

Yesterday I tried installing Vista and started to get some serious errors, so I figured I'd set the drive back to slave and bring my older one back as master. When I load up the computer with this setup, it only detects the master drive and says nothing is there for the primary slave IDE slot. The hdd itself isn't burned out as it worked just the other day. I think I am experiencing the same problem as before, but I can't simply go back to the ORIGINAL setup because I need to pull some data off the fubared drive.

Basically I'm wondering why it won't detect the hdd as slave. The jumpers are in the correct spots respectively, the cables are plugged in properly, auto detection is ACTIVATED in BIOS... what could be the culprit?Do a few cold boots with just the master hooked up.
Then power down double check all connections and jumpers.
The master drive should be at the end of the IDE cable with the slave in the middle.
Re-boot and see if this helps...it is highly likely that the mbr is still on the slave drive and therefore it will still cause problems even when jumpered as a slave. disconnect the old slave and only use the drive you have designated as your master for a few times (as per " Patio's " instructions) the mbr could be changed during use as the master, then after a few boot ups TRY with the slave drive attached.
or
do a repair installation!
or
it could be fixed using fdisk /mbr if you know how to make a windows floppy, but this all depends on if you have any partitions on the drive, normally fdisk is done during the installation of XP and you will not even see it happen. if you have no partitions there is really no problem about using FDISK /MBR.
Look at this for a guide.
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/69013
fdisk /mbr can be done from the recovery console
or
please note the FDISK for XP is different from other versions of windows, you can create a floppy by going into mycomputer then put a floppy in the drive and format the floppy as a system disk.

if you have anything important on the drive you now want to be the master then back that datra up, do a repair installation and the problem should be resolved

Hi i have a OLD hp PAVILION 8360 and i want to put a 40GB BSE DATA storage drive in the computer and it wont COME up at all when i INSTALL the harddrive.I read some where that i need a IDE Controller software but i dont know what one to download. How to i do this can you please help.

I have a custom built PC. AMD athlon 2700+SD single core processor. EVGA geforce 7600 GS video card. 1024 mb DDR4 ram. DFI lanparty motherboard. seagate7200rpm 80 gig ( i think) HDD.

Last night i tilted my computer and it shut off. I saw that the pwer cord slightly came out of the power source, and plugged it back in. When i TURNED mypc back on, four red LED lights at the bottom left of the motherboard went on. Under them is the word "DEBUG". My processor turns on, my video card turns on, my dvdrw drives opens and CLOSES, but nothing more. My monitor on/off light blinks, but i know this isn't the monitor because this has happened before, and i've WAITED a few minutes, turned it back on and it's been fine. One time i blew some dust out and it was fine. Now, there isn' much dust, everything is plugged in where it's supposed to that i can SEE, everything seems to be working, but all i get is a black screen. Anyone have any ideas what i can do? thanks.Shut down, remove and reseat video card. Use ESD precaution.

edit: and reseat ramI've used two different video cards in the two different PCIE x16 SLOTS i have...i'm getting the please check signal cable from the monitor now, so at least that's progress.

The pink dots at the very bottomleft indicate where the red lights are. EDIT: the lights are actually right aboce where i indicated, on the little white strip.

I have an old compaq that has for some reason stopped working, and says error loading operating system. I tried PUTTING xp disc into the cd drive, but it wont work, probably cus its 3rd in the boot order, but anways, i cant get into bios. When i start the computer up it gets to the first screen that says compaq and in the bottom right it says setup(F10) and network settings (F12) when i push f10 it goes to another screen that says 200k KB ok and again the set up and network setting things r in the corner, after that it goes to a screen that says set up password, (if there is a password i dont kno it cus this computer is from like 5 years ago from my dads work that they didnt use anymore) I dont think i can change anything in bios without putting the right password in, so anyone kno how to get around this?I have no ANSWER for you but; about every month- someone (newbie) posts the same question......... we have no answer for you.... we don't encourage ~ Quote from: honvetops on September 06, 2007, 08:56:24 PM

I have no answer for you but; about every month- someone (newbie) posts the same question......... we have no answer for you.... we don't encourage ~

Hi all,

I am kinda audiophine, and planning to buy a brand-new 5.1 or 7.1 speakers for my PC if possible.

I have just spent some time on window shopping, and seen some of the PC speakers are priced up to more than several hundreds while some of their prices are quite reasonable.

What makes such a big difference in their prices?
Quote

What makes such a big difference in their prices?

What's your budget, and what sound card do you have?
If you have a cheap card you'll want to upgrade that first.

u save or you suffer ,

Hi everyone,

I've been having problems with my monitor and it just started yesterday. Here are my specs just in case:

Windows XP Home SP2
2.8 Ghz P4 processor W/ HT
ATI Radeon 9800 Pro 256MB video card
320 GB HD
1 GB of DDR RAM
500W Antec Power Supply

It's an LCD monitor by Kogi. What happens is the desktop, internet, and any other application has streaks of discolored pixels in rectangular vertical stripes. It gets worse when you try to drag a window around and the pixels INCLUDE all colors. It makes working on the computer almost impossible. I just updated my 9800 Pro driver, but nothing changed. The monitor is about five years old, which could be the PROBLEM, but I thought LCDs would last a long time. I have always had a screensaver so the images wouldn't get burnt in. I haven't opened my computer up to make sure the video card is securely fastened, so if I have to do that, it's no problem. I wanted to know if there were something I could do before DEALING with that. Thank you for your response.CHECK the video card connection, and check for dust.
Clean your PC using this guide as a reference.
Does this happen in safe mode? Tap F8 when booting.
And can you give us a screen shot too?

Hey, all.

First of all, apologies for throwing out "ONE of those". I realise that this could be any NUMBER of things, but I thought I'd give it a shot.

Secondly.. if you can't be bothered with reading the history of the problem, just head for the bold at the bottom for a summary. Otherwise, read on...

Basically, I've been messing with my setup a little bit recently to get some better PERFORMANCE out of old gear.. and as you probably could've guessed from that ominous opening.. it all went horribly wrong.

I reformatted the hard-drive to start over. Reinstalled windows, then went ahead with the new things. One of each 1gb + 512mb ram installments, a new 22" screen, tv reciever, DvD RW drive, Wireless network card and a trusty old external harddrive.

Everything was going peachy, but my CPU wasn't quite keeping up. I've got an Athlon 2.6.. which is only running at 1.8mhz, but that's the way it always seems to go. For the first few days I relished the speed, playing with the Nvidia multi-desktop function and all other kinds of stuff; playing games that recommened a higher processor speed, no worries. Then the system started lagging. The CPU was spiking every 4 seconds or so to about 80%+ usage and freezing my entire system up for a second or so. Without me even doing anything. The only thing I can think of is that the amount of ram I was using was just a stupid idea with the processor speed, but that's a stab in the dark.

I reformatted again, just incase I'd downloaded some bogus software in my speed-loving spree, and everything ran fine. For about 20 minutes. Then came the nasty spikes in the taskbar performance tab. Horrible. I'd guessed that the CPU would've struggled a few days ago, and there's already one in the post.. so I went gun-hoe with what I already had.

Removed the heat-sink, cleaned out the fan, had a look at the CPU itself to make sure I had no crud going on. And at the same time I saw a sticker on my video card.. so I pulled that off. Put everything back in place.. then turned it on. Everything sounds okay inside, but there's nothing showing on the moniter. At first I thought I'd iced my video card, but it works in the machine I'm using now.. so. Long story short..

If I break the seal between my heat-sink and the CPU, take the CPU out for a gander, clean out the fan, then stick it all back in place.. would the monitor have just cause to ignore the fact that my machine is on? Again.. the hardware sounds like it's running, fans on, system beeps. Just no activity monitor wise (and I've tried a few monitors.. all of which work on other machines).

Oh, and I've no password or anything setup, so it has the opportunity to just log straight on.. but I've left it on for a few minutes to test, and there's no windows introduction sound through the speakers (though I put this down to an error message stalling the boot sequence to tell me that there's something wrong on the hardware side (not that I can read it)).

Thanks a lot for your time, especially if you went the long way around.

S.Bants.First thing you should try is to use your onboard video. That way you know for sure if it's your video card or not. Also, breaking the seal between the processor and the heatsink is fine. As long as there was some silicon left over before you reseated the processor. That way it won't overheat as easily. You should also check to make sure your video card is seated in all the way. Take it out and put it back in again.I've had the video card out several times to check it on other machines, and tried holding it in with a bit more pressure to see if it was a loose contact. I just can't figure out what's going on.

No onboard video that I have a lead to connect too. The video card though, as I said.. works perfectly in another machine, so I know it's not that. And I don't see how it's dock has been changed in the time it's messed up. The only thing that I know has changed for sure is the CPU coming out and back in again. I can't think of anything else.

Extremely annoying, in any case.I managed to get hold of another motherboard which happily ACCEPTED all of the hardware I had on the previous machine. Everything ran fine, then came the spikes.

I soon realised that there was a connection between the fact that my CPU usage was shooting through the roof, and that I'd installed the drivers too my new BELKIN WIRELESS G DESKTOP CARD. Not a happy bunny.

Thanks for the help though. Peace.Once you remove the CPU it needs to be thoroughly cleaned off and have new thermal compound applied...
This is IMPORTANT.
Travel to Arctic Silver 's site for recommendations on the procedure.
Secondly if you had made any BIOS changes in the process of tweaking the machine these do not disappear from wiping the HDD and re-installing the OS.
I would enter setup on re-boot and set the BIOS back to the default values after following the above advice to see if this improves your condition...

what should i do other than throw away the system i want to fix it my computer will boot but i cant see anything but a green screen with lines but i think its the monitor but it is a parrallel port on the vid card with 15 pins but all my other MONITORS are new and have a d-sub connector my computer is a at&t pc 6300 i think its the video card i should replace???EBAY!!! You could either sell it or buy another and switch out the parts.

Or just keep it as a collector's item despite the video problem.

EDIT: This could be what ur looking for:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rare-AT-T-6300-Video-Board_W0QQitemZ200072981296QQihZ010QQcategoryZ4193QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

it's $60 Buy-It-Now

EDIT 2: then there's a complete system for $300 (outrageous, but in GREAT condition)
http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-AT-T-6300-Plus-Complete-System-Works_W0QQitemZ200115300988QQihZ010QQcategoryZ4193QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItemI WOULD keep it. Then in like a few years, you could probably sell it for a lot of money...if it's fixed...if i get another vid card for it it wont do anything because i dont have a GOOD monitor for it and i dont want to buy the same old thing for 300$.some where else someone else told me that another vid card would work.

Lately my computer has been crashing more often. I do run anti virus and adaware quite often so I don't think it's been attributed to that. I run Windows XP. I only have 1/2 gb of ram and I've had this comp for at least 3-4 years. I have had to manually restart the comp a few times do to the computer completely freezing. A couple of times (not all the time) the computer has not been able to detect my master hard drive. I had to leave it alone for a 20mins and then it is able to boot. However, I am nervous that the hard drive might be crashing so I purchased a new one. I currently have 2 internal drives in my comp. My question is can I basically copy and put my master drive's contents in my slave drive, some how change my slave then to my master. Take out the possibly defective drive and install the new one. Oh, while I was at it. I also purchased a new DVD burner and 2gb of ram. DO you recommend I change everything at once, or do one at a time? THanks in advance everyoneI would start by changing the RAM... It's the easiest thing to put into the mainboard.
I wouldn't BOTHER with the burner until you have your HDD problem sorted.

Firstly, do you hear a sort of clicking noise at any POINT coming from your HDD?

Have you ran any anti-virus & anti-spyware (in SAFE mode) programs?
Give this a go and see if it comes up with anything.

Also, download and install (without Yahoo! Toolbar) CCleaner. Let it fix any issues it finds and when you do the registry section, make sure you save a backup.

And to answer your question on copying and pasting your drives contents to your new HDD, this will not work. You will either need to resolve the issue with the current HDD or we can guide you in getting your new HDD into your comp for use (im guessing as your primary drive?)

Hi, thanks for the info. MY HD has become much noiser on start up. Doesn't sound like a click, but more of a whirling, if that makes sense. I will install CC cleaner and let u know what happensAlong with following the good advice above travel to the HDD's manuf. site and grab their free diagnostics and run it on the offending drive to see if it can be trusted with VALUABLE data or not...

Also another good solution for the drive issue:
Select which HDD you now want as the master drive...pick the newest one.
Then travel to that drive's website as well and DLoad their free tools.
You can now boot to the CD you create from that file and "clone" the troubled drive directly to the new one you have chosen...
Then you simply remove all other HDD's from the system...set the "new" drive as master and you will be booting up in no time to your original OS and you're good to go.

Note:
The drive you choose for master is who's software you should use for this procedure i.e. the "new" HDD

Note 2: You will need to remove anything from that drive that you need prior to doing this as all existing data will be wiped.

But don't get ahead of yourself here...follow the advice from GX 44 first and then move on.
Good Luck and keep us posted, and Welcome to CH.ArrghH!!! So I THOUGHT I checked it out and bought the right size RAM to replace my old one, but when I opened up the computer the knotches didn't line up!! My old ram is PC3200U-30330 HYMD232646A8J-D43 AA-A
HOw do I know what the size of it is? It's the stock ram that came with my Dell Dimesion 8300. Also I want ot replace the master drive. What steps do I need to take so that I will be able to boot up? Thanks againTravel to Crucial . com and enter the specs of your machine to determine what type of RAM it can use...
Without RAM the HDD is a moot point right now so lets solve this first.

when i turn on this PC for some reason it goes straight to BIOS and i can not pathom why? it's a 478 board / G8SIML with CELERON 2.4. I have tried resetting the bios to default but the same thing just keeps on happening do you guys have any ideas?
many thaks all the EBST
cheers
Matt Try another keyboard or check your CMOS battery.

Audigy 2 and 5.1 creative speakers. All were working OK then Nothing apart from a quick run through the Creative Diagnostic which showed sound coming fropm the rear right speaker but NON of the others. No 'mute' switches on anywhere. All wires correctly in POSITION. Computer used by all family so I do not know what MAY have been done by accident but nothing obvious. Can anyone please return noise to my strangely DISTURBING silent life?

I have a 17" Dell Flat panel monitor that will not display. Screen remains black although power is on. there are 3 lights at the bottom right that just continue blinking fairly rapidly.
Sometimes it comes on after days or hours but is very random. Any suggestions appreciated..are you using a graphic card?TRY re-connect it.check for any loose cables.when it start,is it work 100% perfect?To determine if it is the monitor at fault hook it up to another desktop machine...if it does the same thing then someting is WRONG with the monitor ...
If it runs fine post back and LET us know as we'll have to start diagnosing VIDEO problems on your machine...

Hello everybody,

I ran into some problems and I hope somebody could help me out.

Now I am visiting my parents and they have an older COMPUTER with Win 98 on it. I have all my data here on a Hitachi external disk, but somehow I cannot make it work.

I downloaded some drivers and installed them, but my best result was when the device manager said that the disk in functioning, but simply I could not reach it neither with Windows Explorer nor in any other way.

I also installed a driver that works, but while installing I get the FOLLOWING text: "Specify the system directory of the Windows (...) contaning the NTFS driver you wish to use (...)"

Anything I write or browse it tells me that it cannot find NTOSKRNL.exe in the system32 folder.

Is there anything to do or it is hopeless?

Thanks a lot,
ErvinTry the nusb31e.exe download.

http://www.technical-assistance.co.uk/kb/usbmsd98.phpThanks for the link but appearently the driver is for Win98 SE and as I am opening the installation file it tells me that this driver is not COMPATIBLE with my Win ver.

Ervinwindows 98 or even 98se cannot read the NTFS or NT File STORAGE system,
it would be better if you can get an xp computer and copy all the data to a fat32 or fat16 file system, or use Ontrack Partition Magic version 8, or the newer version as its now owned by Symantec/ Norton to convert the drive to fat32, even with an XP computer the fat32 is actually slightly different from the fat32 used by windows 98, there are i think 26 versions of windows 98 and none can read NTFS, and only the later SE versions can read any LARGE hard drives over 32gb.

try this NtfsDos http://www.sysinternals.com/Utilities/NtfsDos.html
it is regarded as the only software way to get win98 to read NTFS

or this ntfsw a newer product from Paragon at http://www.mount-everything.com/ntfsw/Quote from: bartis.ervin on June 12, 2007, 05:51:14 AM

Thanks for the link but appearently the driver is for Win98 SE and as I am opening the installation file it tells me that this driver is not compatible with my Win ver.

Ervin

It may or may not be gone but at 220Watts i'd replace it just on principle.

There are basically 2 styles ...20 and 24 pin.

Since a 24 pin can be used on an older machine i'd suggest that one if you plan on upgrading.

why, of course that's why there's such a variety of PSUs out on the market.

Seeing as how your computer has a 220W psu, i'd just upgrade that to 300W. You could go to newegg.com for one. They have TONS.

Quote from: alexfue12 on June 23, 2007, 04:27:51 PM

why, of course that's why there's such a variety of PSUs out on the market.

Seeing as how your computer has a 220W psu, i'd just upgrade that to 300W. You could go to newegg.com for one. They have TONS.

Still no POSTing...

I found an older 300W supply of mine. I plugged it in and the crazy thing is that I am getting all the same voltages I posted above +/- 1. Is it possible that my mobo is telling these power supplies to do something different or something. THis makes no sense to me. :/

Should all I be plugging in is the "main" 20 pin cable?

I bought a IBM Z Pro off ebay a few months BACK... It came with three 75gb U320 15k SCSI hard-drives but Ive never been able to get more than one to work at a time. They're RUNNING via a Compaq smart-array card, not onboard SCSI. On the drive that works I have XP installed, and in Windows it is the only drive that shows up. However in BIOS the other two drives show up and their status is "OK"... Ive tried every jumper setting and cable CONFIGURATION with no luck... its frustrating. Please help. so,the 3 of it works?but not at the same time?well...I assume they work only because BIOS detects them and says they're OK... But no, Ive never tried installing an OS or anything on them...should be the jumper i guess ???any label on the HDD?how to make it slave / master & so on..alright,see again..its already 12.46am here..need to sleep
don't worry,lot of pro can help during my sleep...

i am in the process of moving from the US to the UK. I have about 300GB woth of infor I need to be able to use over there. It is stored on various computers and EXTERNAL hard drives.

I was looking at a couple of USB Bus powered external drives, but the reviews of these are not always great.

Does anyone have an esy solution to this problem?

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Some of these are older listings so check them out for availability...For 300 GBs I think a couple of HDDs is the only way to go.
I'm not SURE what your subject is asking re: 110V to 220V though, do you have any issues with this?

A while back, I bought 2GB Dual Channel DDR400 RAM. Just recently, I've read that you have to enable dual channel mode, sometimes in the BIOS, sometimes by doing something on the mobo.

I just checked my mobo manual (PDF) and it says almost nothing about dual channel mode... just a short footnote that says the memory has to be the same density and whatnot.

I checked my BIOS and saw no settings in any way related to single/dual channel memory. Is it safe to assume that dual channel mode is automatically enabled when identical memory sticks are put into the motherboard?

This is really bugging me. I feel like I might not be getting all the performance I could be, but I can't find any special instructions.



Now for my 2nd question. I recently upgraded to a 500GB SATA II hard drive from a crappy old 80GB ATA drive. My motherboard only supports SATA 1.5gb/s so I know I'm forced to run the HD in that mode, and that it does so by default. Anyway, ever since I put in the new hard drive, FORMATTED, partitioned and reinstalled, I'm getting a strange issue when booting. If I shut the power off, and turn the computer back on, it hangs when TRYING to auto-detect my drives. It just sits there like it can't find anything. But if I hit the reset button while it's doing that, it boots just peachy. This ONLY happens when I turn it on (as in, not when I reboot). I have a feeling it has to do something with the SATA thing, maybe I configured it wrong or something. It's my first SATA drive so I wouldn't be surprised. I do, however, know for a fact my drives are displaying properly in the bios as SATA drives.

Anyway, that's been bugging me for a while as well.


Any ideas? Thanks! Question 1 - If your motherboard does not support dual channel mode it doesn't matter what your RAM is. As you didn't post the motherboard model we are stuck there.

Question 2 - What is the make and model of the drive, and again, the motherboard? My motherboard, according to the website, does support dual channel memory. Sorry about the LACK of details, here's more info:

Motherboard: ECS K8T890-A (website)

Hard Drive: Samsung SpinPoint T Series HD501LJ 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s

RAM: G.SKILL Value Series 2GB (2 x 1GB) 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400 (PC 3200) Dual Channel Kit


Thanksthis is a great example on HARDWARE "upgrades"
Always "in my opinion" get the best mobo you can afford 1st*
then go cpu and etc......

Then always listen to what the G-man has to say !!!! Sorry for the bump, but my topic was already halfway down the third page and I had a feeling it wasn't going to get seen again.

Any ideas about my questions anyone?Its not supposed to have the single channel or dual channel options - just install the RAM in the channel type you want. It should be fine.

Hi. I have a friend who had an Albatron PX865PE7C Pro with a Samsung 160 GB HDD. A couple weeks ago he was having trouble with it randomly shutting off and freezing. We tried REPLACING the power supply with some old ONES, but they didn't help. So we kept the original that seemed to be working fine. Upon putting it back in, the computer would not turn on at all. The CPU fan would turn a few times, but that is all. We tested the power supply on a different machine and it seemed to work fine. We have since replaced the motherboard with a Gigabyte 8I865GME-775-RH and a new 160 GB HDD. The install was fine, but when we first turned it on, it ran ok for about 10 SECONDS, then shut off again. The motherboard sounded a single short beep, which according to the manual means that everything is fine. Every time we try to turn it on, it runs for about 5-10 seconds, and we can't even access the BIOS. We tried a different power supply from a friends computer that we knew worked, and the same results. Any advice on what could be wrong? Is it possible the CPU could have been damaged and would there be any tell-tale signs of the damaged CPU? We were very careful not to touch or damage it during the install, and it was running fine before this catastrophe. Any advice would be greatly appriciated.Sounds more like a heat issue than power supply, especially if the problem recurred when you switched to other PSUs.

Here's a quick suggestion. Open up the case and point a fan at the CPU, if the computer boots normally and loads the OS then you've found your issue. Report what HAPPENS and we'll know where to go from there.Then again, if it was only 5-10 seconds it could be something else. Like a bad CPU as you suggest. Have you tried using the CPU/RAM in a different machine?If the pc only runs for 5/10 secs then i doubt it's an overheating issue. still COULD be though...

i think it might be a virus. Can you boot in safe mode?The most common causes i've seen for this are EITHER the CPU/Fan combo is not seated properly or you are missing one or more of the MBoard standoffs that are needed,,,JXY: that is true, but remember that it can auto-turn off quickly (5-10 seconds) if it is not being properly cooled. The first time it happened I assume it was after it had been running for a while. Just a thought.

mclarenfan86: what was your friend doing the first time this happened? Was he playing a game? surfing the internet?? Well, with the old motherboard, I'm not sure what he was doing the first time it started happening. As far as I know, it was completely at random. He'd leave it running, just idling at the desktop, he would go to class, come back and it would be frozen or off. Since we put the new mobo and hdd in, we haven't been able to install an OS. We can't even get that far. We're going to apply some new thermal paste to the cpu, because the paste that was on there was hard as a rock, and probably not doing anything. We'll try that and see what happens. That old residue needs to be carefully removed or the new thermal paste will do no good at all.
Use a razor blade for the bulk of it and then use swabs with a small amount of isopropyl alcohol for the rest.
Allow it to dry thoroughly before applying the new compound.
Arctic Silver's website has excellent instructions on this process...

I wanted to upgrade my OS from windows 2000PRo to Windows XPpro. All system requirements are met, with the exception of those of the Bus Clock. I have it at 100 megahertz, and 300 are needed. How would I go about changing that, or should I just wait and get a new computer?Where are the bus clock requirements for XP ? ?

http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/pro/upgrading/sysreqs.mspxquote*

Here's What You Need to Use Windows XP Professional
•

PC with 300 megahertz or higher processor clock speed recommended; 233 MHz minimum required

I think this is what his concern was Patio*

"why don't you list all your computer hardware for us (your specs) and we can make sure....

100MHZ, huh? I'm SURPRISED you even got Win2k to run on there. The minimum requirement for Windows 2000 is at least 133MHz. I bet it runs slow.I suspect front side bus speed is being confused with CPU speed here...Quote from: patio on June 20, 2007, 04:21:16 PM

I suspect front side bus speed is being confused with CPU speed here...

Meanwhile there has been another abduction...someone alert GX1_Man please as he is tracking these occorunces.

I've just installed a Hitachi 1 terabyte SATA Hard drive on an IDE motherboard (replacing an OLD ide hard drive) using a sata adapter card with cable. I have 2gb of RAM.
I clean installed a new Windows XP and it seemed OK until I did a cold boot, all reboots had WORKED, but from cold it tries to reinstall XP until I press the reset button to reboot.

I tried changing the order on the bios boot list, even tried removing the CD drive from the list, but it still wants to boot from the CD on start.

Have I missed something. Hitachi's site SAYS drivers are not required as XP includes them.

XP gives me occassional blue screen crashes also, which may or may not have something to do with it.
Any ideas?i also have this b4,but on an external hard drive, what written when the blue screen occurs?try making it as a slave see is it works on bootI only have this drive installed at the moment.
I think the problem may be that there is no SATA option in the bios and it just boots from wherever it can.
So the motherboard is not SATA friendly!
I will probably re- install the IDE drive as the master.
Cheers.there u go..u just realize what im gonna tell u next..
Did the SATA adapter card come with any software or drivers ? ?
There should be a message early on in the boot process when the card is loading...it's in there that you will find the boot options.

Hi there!

we just moved and (to make a long story short) my computer worked before the movers packed it up and,well, now it doesn't. This is what happens......it starts up....makes a beep like it always did (just one single beep)...the green light on the monitor comes on as well....then 10 seconds later I get 2 quick beeps a slight pause then one more beep. The monitor never displays anything. I dont have another monitor to try......but I hooked it up to my laptop and the green light came back on, tried to switch to that monitor, but nothing happened.......I am about to hit the d**n thing with a hammer! LOL

Thanks in advance for trying to help/listening to me rant!

oh YEA....
win xp sp2
1gig ram
nvidea 256 mb card (forgot the model but it s a few years old)
Hey welcome , TAKE a deep breath and go break something else!
(MOVING su_ks!)

I think we will need to know what type (make) computer you have and the type/ model
of the motherboard inside that case mounted on the inside wall. There should be printd on the circuit board "motherboard" the model/serial #

We can try and help diagnose those beeps with that info*thanks! The computer is home built but I was able to track down the pieces parts.

Soyo KT600 Dragon v2.0 Socket A ATX Motherboard / AGP 4X/8X / Audio / 10/100Mbps Ethernet LAN / USB 2.0 / Serial ATA / RAID / CNR

AMD Athlon XP 2900+ Socket A CPU 400FSB BartonCore

Chaintech GeForce FX 5500 / 256MB DDR / AGP 8X / VGA / DVI / TV Out / Video Card

This help? I get one long beep + two or three short beeps from the speaker.
To resolve this issue:

1. It is very likely that the VGA card is not properly seated in to the slot. Please push the VGA card down and make sure it 'snaps' twice to ensure it is fully seated into the slot. If the same problem still exist, please try a different VGA card.


*NOTE* Please make sure that the video card you are using is fully compatible with the AGP slot and the Voltage. Most of the board required 1.5v video cardClick here for more info on the 1.5v video card Please refer to you manual for the AGP voltage supported on your motherboard.
thanks! the vid card is seated (tried that one first! LOL) It has worked for about 2 years with no problems at all.....when I hooked it up and saw that something was wrong I made sure everything was seated/tight........... it is not one long beep......it is a short one...then 10 seconds later it is 2 quick short then maybe a second of a pause and another short one....

oh yea....the cable company came to hook up our cable today too....guess what?!?!?! the modem did not work! today is NOT my day! LOL

thanks again I'm getting a little tired * are you ok now ?? is it up ?LOL thanks for your help.......it is not working......but I did just unpack the box that has my axe in it......hummmmmm if your up for awile tonight or not keep coming back and stay on this thread (waiting) we have some night owl guys who are really good*

CBMATT
Street1
Contrex
GX1-Man << bow in his presence*
and many others, its kinda slow tonight hang in there, you WILL get help on this website* thanks!

i am still waiting!!! now I have an axe...and a chainsaw......I am unpacking the boxes that have the .45 and the shotgun next....I am getting closer to killing the computer in the back yard! LOL

oh yea......if you could not tell....it is still not working. I would double check all internal connections including drive cables and power leads.

Then carefully remove each stick of RAM and clean them off with QTips and rubbing alcohol and re-seat them.

You've already done the vid card but if you have any other cards such as a NIC or sound card do the same for them.

Finally use a can of compressed air to blow out all fans and heatsinks. Use a QTip to hold the fan blades in place while you are blowing them out.

As always when working inside the case remove all power sources and take anti-static precautions...

Let us Know.all done and still not working I wish I had another monitor to tryKnock on your new neighbor's door....dont laugh.i have a 1980s computer at&AMP;t pc 6300 and the monitor is bad but i have another monitor only the vid card hook up for the monitor is a 15 pin looking parralell port and all my other monitors are the d-sub hook ups on modern monitors.plese help.

So my brother-in-law was at a torrent site, got a bad .dll FILE (according to him) and his computer blue screened. I live 2 1/2 hours from him and havn't had time to look into it. I only know that it's a Compaq PC with a small HDD, maybe 20 gigs. Not sure of any more of the specs.

According to his tale, he can't even boot. He can't get into safe mode, BIOS, last known good config, nothing.

Based on this minimal information, is there anything anyone could suggest to save his comp? Sorry I'm not very knowledgable when it comes to this sort of crash. Thanks.Try reinstalling windows (using windows disc) you should also make sure that safe mode is not working ! I disagree with Spero_T.

if there's a problem and you get blue screen of death, don't immediately re-install windows. that's a LAST RESORT.

it would help if you could contact your brother in law and give us some system specs.
mainly what OS should be enough. Antivirus software would help also.

The main point is, ask you brother what message his blue screen gives him. POST it on this forum. it'll help us determine what's wrong. will do JXY. I should be back on this afternoon.So I talked to him just now. According to him it doesn't even get to a POST test. He says the fan starts to go but the HDD itself never starts to spin. The monitor also never powers up. (note: the first blue screen did a physical MEMORY dump, guess that's normal)

If it doesn't do a POST test, did the virus get in the BIOS?

Also, he can't find his Windows CD, so I think reinstalling is out of the question.

Is there any way to hook up his HDD (western digital) to a another machine and run diagnostic software somehow? I'm ignorant when it comes to this sort of thing, but I'm hoping there is still a way to save it. He needs some files and has about 5 gigs of music in My Documents.

Any suggestions would be helpful.

P.S. Win 2000, CPU 1.2 Ghz AMD Athlon (Compaq)Also, he had Norton Anti-virus which apparently was botched from another virus. (this kid is a real piece of work) hmm....you can take the HDD from a desktop out, but i'm not sure if it's as simple for a laptop. if you want to diagnose the HDD, you should take it to a computer repair shop. they'll handle it for you,

as for the windows disc, you should call the company of which you bought your laptop from. perhaps COMPAQ. ask them to send you a disc.

and thirdly, about the music. does your brother in law use an ipod or something?

because if he does, and all his 5.00GB WORTH of music is in his ipod, there's a way to extract it.that's what I figured. I wasn't sure if there was any way to diagnose the HDD on your own. You know like take it out and hook it up to a desktop as a slave or something.

Not sure about the ipod thing. He may. It looks like taking it in is his best bet. Thanks for your help!no problem.

in case he DOES use an ipod, here's the link for the music extraction software.

Quote

http://www.yamipod.com/main/modules/downloads/

Somebody gave me a computer w/o the monitor (which was an LCD) so I bought a new CRT monitor for it. When I connected the monitor and booted up the pc, a "OUT OF FREQUENCY" message APPEARED on the monitor and then the monitor closed. Apparently, my video card (Winfast Nvidia 6800 GT) is out of the frequency range of my new monitor. How can I change the settings of the video card if I cant use the monitor? Two options: Do you have another video card? Is there an onboard video port?There is no onboard graphics. There is another video card but its the same as the first and they are in SLI. I can go to safe mode just fine though but from there I cant access the video card configuration.Are you sure you can't get to your Display settings in Safe Mode?

I have Windows XP Home and I was able to...

Get to your Display Settings through the Control Panel. CLICK the Settings tab and then the Advanced button. Click the Monitor tab and you can adjust the refresh rate there.

Post back with your results please...Yes, I already did that. I can go to Display, Advance and Monitor. But all it SAID in the Refresh is Default Hardware settings. There are no other choices.Fixed the problem. I WENT to VGA mode in boot options and booted in normal Windows mode. From there I RESET the resolution of my monitor. When I restarted the problem was fixed.Glad to hear you got it working...

Someone gave me this very old computer and I have been slowly upgrading it. New 80g hd, more ram (384 so far). It is a Gateway. I bought a new printer and TRIED to PLUG it into the USB port but on one of the ports it just starts beeping madly and on the other one it disables the mouse and keyboard and now I cannot get the wheel to work on the mouse. I tried going to device MANAGE about the wheel and it doesn't EVEN recognize that it has a wheel. I am really just learning about hardware and know that this is probably something easy. I need to be able to install my printer and have a working mouse. What do I need to do?Sorry, I have a new copy of XP installed on it. Quote from: annaintx on June 23, 2007, 06:02:41 AM

Sorry, I have a new copy of XP installed on it.

I had to do a complete format on my laptop because every time I'd bump a BUTTON on my quick launch bar... mainly the volume, my computer would FREEZE up and I couldn't even get it to restart. I had to use the power button to turn off the stupid thing. I tried system restore, and recovery and it still didn't do dittly squat, matter of fact it just made matters worse. So I finally just formatted the sucker, well after I did that I had found out that the copy of windows xp that should have came with the laptop, didn't... it was a private seller that the laptop was acquired from. And the butthead failed to give my boyfriend the software that went with it. Including any recovery discs or windows XP. So I had to get a bootleg copy of windows xp pro. This thing is supposed to be running home. But ever since I did the format my webcam that's built into the laptop and the sound card hasn't been working. The only sound I hear out of this thing is a beep if I get a system message. As for the webcam, well the lil' light will show it's trying to work, I installed all the DRIVERS but it just don't wanna do it. I'm about to pull my hair out, I went to the hp website and downloaded all the drivers for everything on the laptop and those things still don't want to work. Just in case anyone's wondering it's a Hp Pavilion dv2000, dv2020us. Please someone help!!!!!!First things first...you may want to obtain a legitimate retail version of your OS and not a "bootleg version".

Another option would be to contact the manufacturer for recovery software...this usually includes the OPERATING system, drivers and any other applications that were on the computer when it was initially purchased.

You will find that obtaining the recovery software from this manufacturer is much cheaper than BUYING the OS in a retail store.

Hey all,

Can someone offer me some valuable advice?

Here are my specs:

Advent 3211, Amd Athlon 1.8Ghz processor, 266mhz speed

1GB Ram

Windows XP MCE Edition

ATI Radeon 128 Graphics Card

Panasonic Analogue Stereo Amp

Realistic 60 Watt Floor Stander Speakers x 2

I am RUNNING this as a media centre, and really WOULD like to add a PCI card to boost the sound quality from onboard.

I watch a love of movies and music , but play no games.

Can anyone give me some "BUDGET" reccomendations when looking to buy an upgrade on my onboard sound card.

I had looked at the Audigy 2 and Audigy SE but am concerned that the 2 stereo speakers may limit the cards potential?

If anyone can help. AWESOME!

Thanks very very much!

What sort of budget are you working with here?

Hello,
I am about to add another DIMM to my system.
The form factor and SUPPORTED bus frequency are OK, but there is one more thing.
My old DIMMs have normal (15,625 us) refresh rates while the one I am going to add has a reduced (0.5x) refresh rate. All are PC 133 SDR.
Can this difference in refresh rates cause any trouble? Does it matter at all?
I am asking not to have to post a topic like "My computer won't work..."
Thanks for advice.Crucial

These people speak RAM better than anyone...
I would also check your MBoard manual for any references on memory timing issues...Thanks for a link.
The problem is I have found a lot of information on latencies, but none on refresh rates.I can't recall HEARING a refresh rate causing a problem...but i've been wrong in the past...best bet would be to have the fastest RAM stic(s) closest to the CPU and go from there...
The MBoard if a decent one will automatically compensate for different timings.
Was there any info at your board's site ? ?No, any relevant info there. Before I asked my question I had tried to find the answers myself on the Net. From Crucial I have got a reply that DIMMs with different refresh rates can generaly be mixed within one computer but in some systems it can cause some trouble. A bit ambiguous, isn't it? But since You haven't heard of such problems and I couldn't find any information on the subject on the Internet, then I think it's fairly safe to try.
Thanks for the advice.I tried and everything works fine. The computer boots up NORMALLY. Five PASSES of Memtest have been completed successfully so far.
Thanks again.usually, if memory has a better performance than is needed, it will work fine. A faster refresh rate capability is a better perormance. Your new memory can refresh in half (0.5) the time of the older RAM. But your chipset will not know or care. Therefore no problem.

I'm running Windows XP and the Firefox browser. My question is: I was adding some RAM to my computer just a few mins ago, and it was my first time so i went ahead without READING any manuals and took out the 126mb STICK and POPPED in the 512mb stick. Then after it didn't go in i tried it the other way, then the other way, and back and forth 'till i finally got it in. What i noticed is that there are tiny little notches on the "modules", and i don't know if i damaged it or not. I'm sure it didn't have it before, and i don't want to keep busted things inside my computer. Can anyone help?If your computer is working...don't worry about it.

Just check your system information to se if the memory is installed. In XP: Start/All Programs/Accessories/System Tools/System Information. Scroll down the page and you should see Total Physical Memory. If installed correctly, you should see the 512 you just installed.

In the future, RAM only goes in one way and there are notches on the stick which line up with notches in the slot of your motherboard. Some go in at an angle and some go in STRAIGHT. At any rate, once they are in, the clips that hold them should snap INT place if installed correctly. Never force anything into the slots of your motherboard, or you'll end up with a doorstop.

Im thinking of building a new computer and would like some help in deciding which parts I should get
I was thinking of getting this CPU, these two RAM sticks, and an nForce 680i motherboard (what is the difference between the A1 and T1 versions of the board?)

I also need help on deciding whether or not I should get two of these or a single 8800?

I am using tigerdirect to shop for these items because there is a store close bywow..you have big budget,but it's your choice.I agreed with the processors.the motherboard looks same for me uh...buy both of the graphics if you can afford it..we gamers do like high performance isn't it? My advice will cost you nothing

motherboard - the 2nd* T1 board you like is excellent, "lifetime warranty"! Like their GPU's* graphis cards, they have the best warranties in the tech buying Industry (BFG-too ! &LT; ) for pc's...

Ram * no. buy the HQ sticks of G-skill here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231114

cpu* ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

I would (still) get this cpu > E6600 ( U can oc to almost 4!)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115003

most people will say Buy* A quad card...
maybe but I still would wait for the new cpu releases on this chip first before attempting a new build* The Penryn chip ? spelling ?

the best bargain Mobo right now with a built in Creative Hi-Fi sound card .. + 75.00 !s this which I would buy*

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130080

"Buy" the way .......... tigerdirect s OK* But newegg if the product is there or a REASONABLE alternative, usually gives a buyer a much better price* +
If you been here awhile and know about quit asking questions and do a "google" search first* 9 times out of 10, you will find an answer !

Reading about all the stuff you want to spend/ purchase money on.......Helps

GPU _ ANY* 8800 ( Nvidia) series .... with 640 of ram * get one 1 # card ......... its too expensive to run SLI dual cards so, get the highest RATED 8800 card you like....

Best Luck

ok, here's the deal. my old system was a 2001 P.O.S, so i figured it was time to upgrade. i spent a few days gathering information on pc parts and stuff. i got my motherboard, CPU, gpu, power supply, and a new case (all listed below), i kept my old hd, CDD, and dvdd. i put it all together went though and got it configured, got to the loggin and it froze, so i turned it off. i went to turn it back on and all it did was flash for like 1/2 a second. i tired unplugging everything and re-plugging it , and it still did't work. at this point i am mad, not only did UPS take 8 hours to travel 25mins from the scan station to my house, but now this thing wont work. any ideas?

Motherboard: ASUS Deluxe/ Wireless Edition Socket AM2 AMD ATX Motherboard

CPU: AMD Athlon 64 X2 5200+ 2.6 GHz Socket AM2 Processor-In-A-Box

Power Supply: BFG Technologies PC System 650 Watt ATX Internal Power Supply Unit

GPU: BFG GeForce 8800 GTS OC 640MB GDDR3 PCI Express Graphics Card

RAM: 2 x1GB PNY sticks DDR2

Hard Drive: 80GB Western Digital...really old


Your motherboard is grounding out on the case.

http://www.trianglecables.com/motstannyl10.htmlPenguin ....... Because you said....... Quote

i put it all together went though and got it configured, got to the loggin and it froze

I desperately need ADVICE on how to GET my Epson Perfection 1640SU scanner to work on my HP Media Center m7760 PC, Vista Ultimate OS, 32 bit, 2038MB RAM. I used same scanner with previous Compaq, XP, no problems. I downloaded the driver for Vista from the Epson site. When I click on Windows Fax & Scan, then Select Device, the choose Scanner, I have two choices: Epson Perfection or Xerox Work Center (don’t know where Xerox came from). Clicking on Test Scanner for Perfection gives message: Successfully Completed. However, I cannot get the scanner to scan. Epson tech says it will open in Paint, but it doesn’t. Thanks for any direction you can GIVE to me.It looks like Epson has not written any new software for your scanner to work under Vista.
They have written a TWAIN driver however, which is a very basic driver that NEEDS an image handling utilty (like Paint) to operate.
That's probably why Epson told you to go through Paint.
Your normal scanning procedure that you are accustomed to under XP (Smart Panel perhaps) likely won't work until they tweak it for Vista.

If the Vista32 TWAIN driver is properly installed, you will see your scanner's icon in Control Panel.
You will also find it in Device Manager.
The TWAIN driver download is on this page:
http://www.epson.com/cgi-bin/Store/support/supDetail.jsp?BV_UseBVCookie=yes&oid=14584&prodoid=32722&infoType=Downloads&platform=All
Post back if the scanner won't install and someone will help you.

A free image handler that is useful in these situations is Irfanview :
http://www.irfanview.com/

Have no idea were that Xerox file came from.I have downloaded the TWAIN driver from Epson, I have the scanner icon in the device manager. I've gone to Paint but still can't get the scanner to scan.

Following the directions on the website, i couldn't find the rundl32.exe entry. I actually remember disabling rundl32.exe in the STARTUP tab in MSCONFIG 5 days ago (which apparently didn't do anything). Should i enable it, reboot, and look for the entry agin?Sounds LIKE you need some virus advice from our members at this point "still having ISSUES"

I would run a complete everest test and post it in our Virus section and hope CBmatt sees it* OR Others.........

I have 3 sticks of 1gb memory installed on my COMPUTER, I also have FreeRam installed to monitor it. When I go to my computer/properties it says I have 3gb but FreeRam says I only have 2gb(that's total memory not free, RIGHT now it says I have 2047 MB free and 2048 installed). Is something wrong with one of my sticks of memory? Also before I used FreeRam I used another RAM defragmenter and it also said I only had 2gb Thanks in advance for the help.Do you have 7950GX2 SLi?

You're only using a single MB of your RAM?Quote from: Jess607 on June 13, 2007, 12:07:51 AM

Do you have 7950GX2 SLi?

You're only using a single MB of your RAM?

Get rid of FreeRAM.
Look under the system properties (right click My Computer) - how much RAM do you have shown there?

Quote from: Calum on June 13, 2007, 05:09:21 AM

Get rid of FreeRAM.
Look under the system properties (right click My Computer) - how much RAM do you have shown there?

Basically right click on My Computer, click properties and another small window will pop up.
At the bottom it tells you how much RAM you have IN TOTAL.

Get rid of FreeRAM.
Programs like that actually reduce performance, ignore them and avoid them, uninstall any you have.
Look under the system properties (right click My Computer) - how much RAM do you have shown there?

Quote from: Carbon Dudeoxide on June 13, 2007, 05:21:15 AM

Quote from: Calum on June 13, 2007, 05:09:21 AM

Get rid of FreeRAM.
Look under the system properties (right click My Computer) - how much RAM do you have shown there?

Basically right click on My Computer, click properties and another small window will pop up.
At the bottom it tells you how much RAM you have IN TOTAL.

I've always known to look at my computer and it has always said 3gb but since FreeRam said I only had 2 I was a little concerned with the conflicting totals. But since you say free ram is junk I suppose I remove it. Thanks for all the help.

So i have a p4 3ghz cpu and just for kicks i was looking for other processors as i have pretty much rebuilt my compy recently (originally a dell 8400 compy, now with a new case, mobo, audigy 2, 3gb ram and a xfx 512mb 7950gt). I dont know much about the core processors except that you don't multiply the speed by 2 its just 2 processors running at some frequency. So does that mean that an e6600 2.4ghz is actually two 1.2ghz cores working together?
Now i have played with hyperthreading on my compy before and i think two logical processors on one physical processor does give an increase in speed and smoothness. My question is, are core 2 duos 775 lga's or will they not fit where a p4 originaly was? Also would it be worth the money to upgrade from the 3ghz p4 i have to a core 2 duo? What speed do you think would make it a wiser choice? How about if I just overclock the p4 i have now? I've replaced everything on my compy except for the 1gig (2x512) of ram and audigy 2 dell sold me (which works fine for my audio needs). Do i go for broke and buy the core 2 duo? also would i need a new power supply nstead of the stock 300-350 that i think dell gives you? Also, can you split the physical processors on a core 2 duo into logical processors?

sorry lots of questions but i really need some clarification on this

edit: the 8400 comes with a 350 (400max) ps and I used an online power calculator to check what I use and with the p4 i use about 260-270 watts.

found a c2d within my price range: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115003Quote

So does that mean that an e6600 2.4ghz is actually two 1.2ghz cores working together?

My question is, are core 2 duos 775 lga's or will they not fit where a p4 originaly was?

Also would it be worth the money to upgrade from the 3ghz p4 i have to a core 2 duo?

How about if I just overclock the p4 i have now?

also would i need a new power supply nstead of the stock 300-350 that i think dell gives you?

Also, can you split the physical processors on a core 2 duo into logical processors?

Excellent reply, Calum. Right on the ball.

Just one thing though. He should buy an E4300 and not an E6600.

Quote from: Jess607 on June 11, 2007, 07:59:50 PM

Excellent reply, Calum. Right on the ball.

Just one thing though. He should buy an E4300 and not an E6600.

Yeah, E4300 is a little hotrod, but what about 6320 and 6420 ?
I'm an AMD guy, but Intel sure has some nice choices right now.

The E4300 is the lowest in the series.
I advised the E6600 because it has 4Mb of L2 cache, the first model to do so (allowing for the fact that the 6320 and 6420 slipped my mind momentarily).
Personally, I'd choose the E6320 for a good price and good performance - the extra L2 cache can really help in some situations and it's fairly cheap too.

I don't see any mention of the OP wanting overclocking potential.
I avoid mentioning overclocking unless they want to - if they're inexperienced they can really do some damage if they get overenthusiastic.
Therefore I'm judging by stock speeds.

I saw no mention of the E4200 on the Intel site yesterday, and I don't today.
And I'm comparing current CPUs, not upcoming ones.

The E4300 is 1.8GHz, the E6600 is 2.4 with twice the cache.
I fail to see how that is 5% better.

my 2 cents then I'll shut up !!!

E6600 was 330.00 us a month ago.

now it is just 234.00 <<< why not just save a little more for the best all around cpu ?

ps... the 6420 is getting rage reviews by the way.. I guess if its a $$$ thing,
you can't go wrong with that cpu as well if oc'ing will be attempted......

Quote from: Calum on June 13, 2007, 05:17:45 AM

I don't see any mention of the OP wanting overclocking potential.
I avoid mentioning overclocking unless they want to - if they're inexperienced they can really do some damage if they get overenthusiastic.
Therefore I'm judging by stock speeds.

I saw no mention of the E4200 on the Intel site yesterday, and I don't today.
And I'm comparing current CPUs, not upcoming ones.

The E4300 is 1.8GHz, the E6600 is 2.4 with twice the cache.
I fail to see how that is 5% better.

You got to be kidding me!

In a time when you can buy a 100$ E4300 and through overclocking, make it into the most powerful CPU on the planet, there is simply no room for not overclocking.
The days of the poorly overclockable Athlon 64 are over. Core 2 Duo changed the picture.

If ppl dont know how to overclock - tell them to come to me. I've guided dozens of ppl in the art of overclocking, and it really is very simply.

If u fail to see how its only 5% better, then u need to overclock.