Explore topic-wise InterviewSolutions in .

Hello.
I have talked to a computer technician i know, and my motherboard is dying. I am buying a custom computer from him., but for the time being, i was planning to use a PS/2 to USB converter.
My mom bought one from NexxTech, and when i PLUG it into my computer with my keyboard and mouse (it has dual PS/2 slots) it says drivers need to be installed. i know that i only need to click next because on the back of the package it says no software drivers needed.

The problem is, i cant click next because i have no mouse or keyboard. my keyboard and mouse slots on my computer died due to my motherboard dying. is there any way to GET this convertor to work?

could i maybe use a different computer (such as my laptop or another desktop) to SOMEHOW be able to click next or control the computer? i haver heard of programs that do this but it needs to be installed on the CLIENT and HOST computers, but i can't install it on the client computer.

anyone know what i can do?Go into the device manager. It sounds like there needs to be a driver for your USB to PS2 converter.

Gizmo73I can't go to device manager....
My MOUSE AND KEYBOARD (PS/2) slots on ym computer have DIED...i cant use them at all..i need the drivers for the adapter from NexxTech but i cant click next cuz i dont have a mouse...i cant go to device manager because i have no mouseget a usb keyboard and mousewell..my sister has a USB mouse..i tried it before and it also brings up a driver install screen at which i need to click next...Do you have a serial adapter for the PS/2 mouse? Windows should be able to detect it and load a generic driver. yes i do...

It has a USB at the end which splits into 2 ports, one for a PS/2 mouse and one for a PS/2 keyboard...

i think it has the ability to AUTOMATICALLY load, but i just need to click next but i cant I'm referring to a standard serial port (com port), not USB.i dont know what kind of port this is..could you give me a picture?

my friend has a new Vaio laptop
he told me model number S24XWN/C (premium)
i could not find this and i will modify when i get a proper serial number
he has asked me to get a new graphics card and HARD drive
he has 256mg shared and wants up to 768mb i think shared (he has 2GB RAM)
he also wants a 250GB + HDD
is this possible to obtain and how much will it cost, also, how does one change a notebook graphics card?
any help appreciated
booooooooAnd?lol sorry i pressed enter by accident and modifiedYou cannot upgrade a notebook graphics card except in very rare cases.
This is not one of them.
And notebook HDDs go up to 120Gb max right now, for more storage look at either a desktop or EXTERNAL HDD.
They're tricky to install anyway, unless you're confident in what you're doing I advise against upgrading a laptop.
Basically, BUY a new computer if you want more power.
Sorry.i found this 250gb hard drive
http://www.morecomputers.co.uk/extra.asp?pn=WD2500BEVS&referer=Froogle

also, the laptop number is VGNSZ4XWN/C.CEK
it has a NVIDIA® GeForce® Go 7400.
r u sure that i shouldnt change it?Not shouldn't. Couldn't.Better yet...can't!thanks for your help with the graphics card
with the hard drive, can i transfer everything including vista to the new hard drive and not lose anything?If you WANTED a gaming computer you should've bought one.
As for the HDD, you can use a cloning or disk imaging program such as Acronis True Image to clone the entire drive, including the OS, programs and drivers.thanksYou're welcome, post back if you have any more questions.

My Creative AudioPCI ES1373 audio card mutes line out audio when muting the speaker. I need to mute SPEAKERS for MIC RECORDINGS while keeping line out on to feed a headphone amp. Can this be DONE with my card, or, what audio card provides this CAPABILITY?

Lately my Microsoft Wheel Mouse Optical USB (P/N X08) has been acting funny.
For example, when I SINGLE click, it double clicks, and when I drag SOMETHING it lets go randomly. And now it's started CLICKING randomly. I know it's not operating system related because it does it in both Linux and Windows. Right now I switched back to my old mechanical mouse, but I would like to know what's wrong with my MS mouse
Thanks
-JohnWell, it's either dirty and needs to be opened up and thoroughly cleaned out...or, like you said, it's BROKEN and there isn't much you do short of replacing it.You can get a basic USB optical scroll mouse for about $5-$10.

Hello, I began having this problem when I decided to install more ram (the actual ram that came with the pc) because i wanted to try to speed it up. First thing that happened is I got a runtime error, followed by the computer shutting down never to get past the windows MAIN screen with non stop scrolling. Then it restarted and I got the cannot boot insert boot disk message. I did this, the computer then told me that there was no HARD drive in the system to load on. Cleaned up the inners and made sure all cables were connected properly. Tried to start again, got the same boot message. Looked at some other forum last night, saw things about jumpers. Tried to research that, heard of them, but did not know what they were. couldnt find one thing about them or what to do with them if I did find them. I came across some post that said if unable to locate jumpers another thing to do is take out the battery off the motherboard for 5 minutes and replace, then restart. Did that, now all that fires up is the power supply nothing on the motherboard including processor and fans. So now nothing is functioning, well except the power supply. very confused and don't know what to do now. here are the specs and such:

-Micron millenia
-AMD Athlon 1.2
-20 GB seagate master HD
-250 GB ..... Slave HD
-512 MB DDR elixer RAM
-nvidia 256 MB Video card AGP
-Sound Blaster... Basic upgrade PCI
-4 port USB 2.0 PCI

Operating Software
-Windows XP Pro SP2
-AVG Free antivirus
-Windows Firewall
-Spyware Doctor 5.0 anti spyware

Please, any help will be greatly appreciated!

RyanQuote from: frankyrydell on June 28, 2007, 03:50:28 PM

. First thing that happened is I got a runtime error, followed by the computer shutting down never to get past the windows main screen with non stop scrolling.

Then it restarted and I got the cannot boot insert boot disk message. I did this, the computer then told me that there was no hard drive in the system to load on.

take out the battery off the motherboard for 5 minutes and replace, then restart. Did that, now all that fires up is the power supply nothing on the motherboard including processor and fans. So now nothing is functioning, well except the power supply

Quote from: frankyrydell on June 28, 2007, 03:50:28 PM

. First thing that happened is I got a runtime error, followed by the computer shutting down never to get past the windows main screen with non stop scrolling.

Ryan, did this problem still happen, if yes pls try take out the RAM and reseat it back to the slot, may be not proper seated. else can take it out and put back the old ram.

Quote from: frankyrydell on June 28, 2007, 03:50:28 PM

Then it restarted and I got the cannot boot insert boot disk message. I did this, the computer then told me that there was no hard drive in the system to load on.

can you tell me what exacly you do when you the computer told you to insert boot disk? this happen possible your hard disk crash cos by pc shut down during loading windows.



Quote from: frankyrydell on June 28, 2007, 03:50:28 PM

take out the battery off the motherboard for 5 minutes and replace, then restart. Did that, now all that fires up is the power supply nothing on the motherboard including processor and fans. So now nothing is functioning, well except the power supply

not sure what happen here, if cpu fan not running and you don't know what you are doing, better seek help from someone pro.

Double check and make sure everything is seated back properly. Was the battery set back properly? Is the CPU fan the only sign of life the PC is giving? Is the hard drive light or any other light flashing?

Gizmo73

im GETTING no sound from my external 5.1 sound CARD at all , ive tryed everything i know of to get get it working , i have restalled the drivers took the usb out the back and poped it back in , still nofing , its a trust EAX 2.0 soundcard card please someone help im doomed with no sound , it was working fine a few hours ago. I need a to help me haha

I know 100% everything i conected right.

heres a little more about my sound card.

sound system: philips 5.1 sound surround

Are you SURE you don't have some sort of mute on? Double-click the sound icon in your TASKBAR and make sure none of the volume levels on the control panel are turned down.

A similar problem has happened to me before. The sound just suddenly stopped working. I think it was a setting that got CHANGED but I'm not sure.

Hey guys i'm buying a new computer and I have been looking around and I think I found the right one. The only problem is I kinda don't know if the MOTHERBOARDS good. Anyways here it is. MAYBE you could look around and see if it's good! Thanks.
Asus P5N32-E SLI S775 680I Atx MotherboardLooks great to me, although very over the top and very expensive.
My advice is to go for a cheaper one, you'll eve ruse all the features of that board and the cash could be better spent elsewhere.Yeah I agree i doubt i will be getting 4 Graphics Cards lol.
I am getting one 320Mb 8800GTS PCI-E Dual DVi, Tv DDR3 Video Card.Well, the P5N32-E SLi is the finest motherboard I know.

But you may not need full 32 lane SLi when using only an 8800 GTS 320.

So you may want to buy the P5N-E SLi INSTEAD. But if the 32 is only somewhat more expensive, it may still be worth it for other things.Go for TWO PCI-E slots, but look for one that is less expensive.
I don't know US pricing, but post some links and I can tell you if they're good or not.Quote from: Calum on June 08, 2007, 03:20:44 AM

Go for two PCI-E slots, but look for one that is less expensive.
I don't know US pricing, but post some links and I can tell you if they're good or not.

Well, the P5N32-E SLi is the finest motherboard I know.

But you may not need full 32 lane SLi when using only an 8800 GTS 320.

So you may want to buy the P5N-E SLi instead. But if the 32 is only somewhat more expensive, it may still be worth it for other things.

Technical Information
Stop 7F, 0x00000008 (double-fault) error occurs because of a single-bit error in the ESP register
The above Error Message, popped up on my computer, after my PC REBOOTED itself, what doe it mean? & How can I stop it from HAPPENING again?
I have Dell Dimenson 2400, Windows XP. Can someone please help me, and Thanks.
After, cleaning the inside of my PC, no problems, until this morning.
I POSTED this elsewhere here, but it was suggested by a memeber, that I posted here, so I am. Please can someone help me, with this and Thanks,

verylostDid you already read this ? 2 cpu's

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/842465

just a little f.y.i.....

If your keyboard is real nasty and needs a thorough "cleaning"
you can:

place on the top rack of your dishwasher .......
one teaspoon of soap (liquid) ONLY *
**DO NOT** have any heat element turned on, turn off the heat cycle !
the pc article said to let dry (4#) DAYS ........LOL

AND do not attempt this with a cordless / wireless keyboard.............
use a tie strap and secure your keyboard cord

this is supposed to work very well and it will not hurt your keyboard ~

REVISED* You might wanna add: Try this at your own risk! I'm just wondering how many people will attempt this and post back saying "I followed your directions, to the letter, and now my keyboard doesn't work".

You might wanna add: Try this at your own risk!I've seen that procedure MENTIONED somewhere else. I imagine it will work as long as the keyboard is 100% dry on the inside. Any moisture in there when it's put back into use could be it's demise. I've ruined 2 or 3 keyboards by spilling liquid on them. If a spill occurs, the computer should be shutdown and the keyboard disconnected immediately.

Based my experience, any use of the keyboard where liquid has seeped down inside where it can affect electrical contacts will ruin it. So, just shutdown with the mouse, if POSSIBLE, and don't touch a keyboard until it's been disconnected from the computer. Then do the cleanup and make sure it's completely dry before resuming use of it.

I've seen some nasty keyboards. I recall one that I believe should have been marked with a bio-hazard sign. Fortunately, basic keyboards are not very expensive. If the dishwasher technique fails, just replace it.Doesn't seem like a relatively good IDEA, too risky. With the price of keyboards these days save yourself the time and the agony of ruining your keyboard and purchase a new one.Quote from: LOTUS1324 on June 08, 2007, 07:58:42 PM

Doesn't seem like a relatively good idea, too risky. With the price of keyboards these days save yourself the time and the agony of ruining your keyboard and purchase a new one.

Ok I have an HP pavilion 764c it has a 4x AGP slot. I am lookin for the best availbale graphics card for under 300 dollars?

Other question is: Can an 8x AGP run in a 4x slot?

Thanks300 what dollars? american? english? aslonubian?Sorry American lol And I run windows xpcool

i'd say something similar to an nVidia GeForce 7950 GT

i got one a couple of months ago for a friend that WOULD be about 280 american dollars

you can get better ones for close to that price depending on where you go been looking at that one but I only have a 250 watt power supply and dont think that one will work with that low of a power supply.Quote from: bc0204 on June 08, 2007, 09:05:57 PM

Other question is: Can an 8x AGP run in a 4x slot?

I want to build pc..what HARDWARE you advise me? plz give me advise what hardware is the best.? my budget is 6000$
the pc i want to assemble i use for gaming,office.etc.. What KIND of games do you want to run?

Hardware you'll need would be: Motherboard, PSU, Memory, Hard drive, CD/DVD ROM (Rewritable) (if you need the rewritable) Video Card, Sound card, anything else I'm missing guys? For $6,000 you can build a really nice computer. Once you finish it post some pics so we can see! Oh yeah, and a processor if it doesn't come on the motherboard already.... SOMETIMES you can deals LIKE that. Sorry, those are kinda important lol. Can't believe I forgot it. any kinds of games iwant run..i brand of hardware u advised me..plz help me plentyYou want to spend $6,000 on a computer? I don't think even all the top of the line parts even would cost that much.

SLI 2x GeForce 8800 Ultra's - $700 each x2 = $1400
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 - $570
Asus Striker Extreme - $330
G.SKILL 2GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) - $120 each x4 = $480
PC Power & Cooling Turbo-Cool 1KW-SR EPS12V 1000W = $530

This is the main "guts" of the computer. Of course you will still need a case, optical/hard DRIVES, sound card, and whatever else you wish to put in.

Wish I could afford something like this!


I wish I could afford something like that too! For $6,000 you're gonna have an awesome setup! Keep us updated on your progress!$6000 Wow if only i could get that.
Anyway dont forget the card reader,bluetooth dongle. Games you can find out at the vendors.

Apart from that you gona need a wireless keyboard and a mouse.

::)6000My next question..what programming language very useful today..plz give me an idea bcoz im IT student..my next question how to determine if hardisk,memory,video card have damaged?Quote from: thegloves_47 on June 29, 2007, 09:21:11 AM

My next question..what programming language very useful today..plz give me an idea bcoz im IT student..my next question how to determine if hardisk,memory,video card have damaged?

Hey guys this isnt a pleed for help ,well for your advice .


I went out today and got a Geforce 7800 , power supply unit , intel pentuim 4 , and a gb of ram


My failure was in 2 ways , my NEW power supply unit doesnt fit my case......

and my geforce 7800 has no-where to plug into the motherboard for a recap my mother board is asrock p4vm890 and i know this is kinda sad but i spent a lot of money today on all this and i was almost in tears when i found out!!

I tryed upgradeing everything myself before hand , but i ended up taking it to a shop A DIFFRENT SHOP , THATS where i was told my power supply doesnt fit and and thats whats getting me thinking is .

I WAS ALSO TOLD MY MOTHERBOARD WONT SUPPORT INTEL PENTIUM 4 which it does :S


When i got my computer back from the guy he had put my olD cpu back in , and said everything was connected !!! ERM LET ME THINK . WAS IT F*** , I HAD TO CONNECT 3 DIFFRENT WIRES BACK INTP MY BOARD. AND I PAID I £20 FOR NOFING ... h**l the harddive wasnt even plugged in....


Now is it me ... or does this guy not seem like a pro...


I am haveing a bad day so please choose your words lighlty haOkay...I'll choose my words carefully...

1) You'll need to get the dimensions of your old power supply (that fit) and purcahse one with the specs you want and the dimensions of your old one.

2) Your video card...is it AGP or PCI?Oh by the grace of God goes I ................ iM NOT 2 SURE , http://www.nvidia.com/page/geforce_7800.html THAT MIGHT HELP ...


But im still thinking steve , that it does fit i think that guy was talking out of his a** , the man couldnt even plug my power supply in right ...I really tryed guys i tryed my *censored* off!!!!

I really wanted to play online with calum , *censored* i spent enough so i could....

If anyone one has skype or msn i can chat to you live with my new skype wireless bluetooth headset .

I bought that for battlefield 2142
I even bought the *censored* game as well.You don't have a PCI express SLOT on your mobo...

Go back to the store and return the one you have for a PCI or AGP...preferably AGP.

That'll fix your video problem.

Check the dimensions of your old PS against your new one to see if it'll fit.

BTW...I referred your new graphics card as IDE but meant PCI...my bad.steve addecpt me into msn please ... i will talk to over a microphone , i can talk better ....steve come back on msn , my system crashed , cheers and i heard you lol but i couldnt say ANYTHING i feel for you, you'll get over this and be gaming soon...hang in there*I'm going over this with Richenstony right now.
It was my bad about the case and power supply, I thought it was standad ATX but it was Micro-ATX.
The P4 is compatible with the board, and so is the card.
He is getting a new case, I think, so that the PSU will fit.
We're getting there though.

Just BOUGHT an HP G5056EA Notebook. Wireless is 802.11b/g WLAN. Can I buy any wi-fi mouse for it and would I still need a receiver PLUGGED into my notebook?You would need a receiver plugged into the computer. Wireless mice work on different frequencies than WLAN.Quote

Wireless mice work on different frequencies than WLAN.

You would need a receiver plugged into the computer.

I recently moved my computer and since I re-assembled it my monito has been in power SAVE mode. How do I get out of this?Have you checked the signal cable to make sure it's connected properly in back of your computer. If this is plugged in properly, the video card may need to be reseated.

Gizmo73"You may have a bad update in your midst. Shut it down again and this time unplug the computer entirely for one full minute. Plug it back it and see if that reset it. Are your keyboard and mouse wireless? You may have to push the CONNECT buttons on both of them and the docking unit to reestablish the connection.

If you get them working hit F8 and GO to USE LAST KNOWN GOOD CONFIGURATION. I hope that you had your System Restore points turned on. If not, TRY SAFE MODE.

On your desktop right click:

1. Properties
2. Screensaver
3. Power
4. At the bottom of the window:
System Standby: NEVER
Hibernation: NEVER

This will prevent power save mode in the future. You don't need it unless you're running a LAPTOP or have a CRT monitor. LCD screens do not burn so easily."

Okay some time I got info that my processor was an Intel Celeron 900Mhz,Socket 370.
I'm not sure what higher but compatible CPU I can get.

Some suggestions?
We'll need to know the manufacturer and model number of your motherboard.Board: D810E2CB AAA42325-204

Serial: IUCB12704097

*Edit

Manufacturer: Intel Here ya GO:

http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/d810e2cb/sb/cs-012916.htmThanks.You're welcome...If your motherboard supported Celeron D, the manufacturer of the board (in this case Intel) would specify that. It seems your motherboard does not.I think I saw one of these in Grandpa's dungeon on the Munsters ... spot was checking it out*

Socket 370 is a common format of CPU socket first used by Intel for Pentium III and Celeron processors to replace the older SLOT 1 CPU interface on personal computers. The "370" refers to the number of holes in the socket for CPU pins. Modern Socket 370 fittings are usually found on Mini-ITX motherboards and embedded systems.

Socket 370 was originally used for the Intel Celeron, but later became the socket/platform for the Coppermine and Tualatin Pentium III processors, as well as the Via-Cyrix Cyrix III, later renamed the VIA C3. Some motherboards that used Socket 370 support Intel processors in dual CPU configurations. Others allowed the use of a Socket 370 or Slot 1 CPU, although not at the same time.

The weight of a Socket 370 CPU cooler should not exceed 180 gram. Heavier coolers may result in DAMAGE to the die when the system is not properly handled.

This platform is not wholly obsolete, but its use is today limited to the above specialty applications, having been superseded by Socket 423/478/775 (for Pentium 4 and Core 2 processors). Via are still producing Socket 370 processors, but are increasingly MIGRATING their processor line to ball grid array packages.

I just got back from vacation, and when I tried to log onto my computer, it was about after a minute or two it just locks up. Like I'll get the hourglass symbol and it won't go away. I can move the mouse, but everything else doesn't respond.

I tried restoring it once, and after I had loaded a few programs it began freezing again, ALWAYS after about a minute or two. I've restored it three times now, and I keep getting this same freezing problem.

I'm using Windows XP, and I have
AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual CORE Processor 3800+
2.01 GHz, 1.00 GB of RAM
Alienware

Is there anything I can do? I can't find any FAQs regarding my problem.

Thanks in advanceBoot into safemode by restarting the machine and tapping F8 repeatedly before you see the Windows splash screen...

Select Safe Mode.
Once in go to Control Panel / System / Advanced / Startup and Recovery...uncheck " auto restart on errors".

You will now get the WONDERFUL BSOD's ( blue screen 'o death ) instead of a restart.
Write down the error message and post it here so we can further diagnose the issues...Thats the problem There aren't any restarts. It just freezes and locks up with a perma-hourglass icon.

I did what you said, unchecking the auto-restart, and the computer froze just as it usually does.When you say you restored it what exactly do you mean ? ?
Did you use system restore or did you re-install XP ? ?

Hello, Im a a little bit of a noobie but I will try to explain the best I can.

I had my desktop computer made by my friend about 2 Years ago with all new parts and such and it has never failed me.

The other day I was playing World of Warcraft, on my Windows XP and when I alt tabbed out there were all horizontal lines... yellow and such and the computer just seemed to shut down and the screen went totally black. This problem has never happened before.

I STARTED the computer up again and all the Words (the dos like part of logging) while scrolling were all distorted as well (no color). When it got to the colored part of Windows XP where it shows the logo and scrolling little loading bar all of that was distorted with horizontal lines as well. After that step it would go black, and just stay there. I would not get my Welcome Screen to log in.

I DECIDED to look at my graphics card as I dont know alot I figured it was dusty or loose. It was dusty but firly in place so I tryed again , but it still was doing the same thing. Then (taboo ) I fidgeted with my card as the computer loaded up. Moving it a little just to see. Seems like when I PUSHED it down a little the graphics werent as distorted and I could login, long enough to click the start button but even with this I still had distorted horizontal lines. Nothing is more then 2 years old I dont think and I am unsure what the exact problem is or what to do. I will try my best to get specs. (It is definately not the moniter )

Graphics Card - Geforce 660

Motherboard - From Elitegroup its a 945P-A V1.1
Chipset: Intel


Thank you all who reply I really appreciate it


The first thing I would do is to turn your computer off.

Unplug the computer from the power OUTLET and press the power button on the computer to discharge remaining elctricity from motherboard.

Turn off monitor and disconnect it from the video card.

Open the case...while grounded...remove the video card.

Using a pencil eraser, clean the pins on the video card. Use compressed air to clean the slot where the video card is seated.

Reseat the card making sure it is seated properly. SECURE the card with the set screw.

Close the case...reconnect the monitor and plug your computer back in.

Turn it on and see if it still does the same thing.

Post your results here.Quote from: The Saviour on June 08, 2007, 08:57:50 PM

The first thing I would do is to turn your computer off.

Unplug the computer from the power outlet and press the power button on the computer to discharge remaining elctricity from motherboard.

Turn off monitor and disconnect it from the video card.

Open the case...while grounded...remove the video card.

Using a pencil eraser, clean the pins on the video card. Use compressed air to clean the slot where the video card is seated.

Reseat the card making sure it is seated properly. Secure the card with the set screw.

Close the case...reconnect the monitor and plug your computer back in.

Turn it on and see if it still does the same thing.

Post your results here.

Do you have a standby video card you can use as a replacement for your current one to see if that works?

I recently came to the conclusion that I had bad RAM. Blue screens appeared when I upgraded from Windows 2000 to XP, and I was experiencing frequent reboots accompanied by blue screens during startup and at random times during computer operation. I had a single stick of 512 MB RAM. I ran Memtest with the RAM in each of the 3 slots, and errors came up each time. So today I purchased a new stick of RAM, 512 MB as well, and have tried it in 2 of the 3 slots in the motherboard and am still GETTING frequent reboots. What could be causing this and what can I do now?There may be dirt in the RAM slots...try a can of compressed air to blow them out.

As always when working INSIDE the case remove all power sources and take anti-static precautions...especially with RAM.Just cleaned the slots with compressed air and the reboots are still happening.Go to Control Panel/System/Advanced and uncheck "auto-restart on errors"...

This will get you BSOD's instead of restarts. Write down the error messages and post them here.Whatr is the make/model of the motherboard or computer and what is the brand and ALL of the characteristics of the RAM? What did it say on the package, and not just the speed?Quote from: GX1_Man on June 02, 2007, 03:23:19 PM

Whatr is the make/model of the motherboard or computer and what is the brand and ALL of the characteristics of the RAM? What did it say on the package, and not just the speed?

If memtest shows errors return the RAM as defective...

Hi! I get this massage when i connect my monitor.
ATTENTION
OUT OF RANGE
H:68.6KHz V:84.9Hz
Its a Philips Monitor 105 G7. 17inch
Can any one help any tip?Refresh rates are set to high.thanks for your timely reply, so how do i go about in setting the refresh rates? Because i cant get any display on my screen. Its totally blank with this same warning. start in safe mode and change display driver settings.

I sure WISH I got a massage when I connected my monitor.
Quote from: contrex on June 06, 2007, 09:31:36 AM

I sure wish I got a massage when I connected my monitor.

While i insert my pen drive in my pc it is showing Access denied , But i TRIED it in another computer there its working...You have alot of computers with a lot of different problems.there was never a flash drive DRIVER in XP or WIN 2000 this is available now, to download the flash driver from MICROSOFT its called;- UFDSetupWizard
from here

http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?familyid=94991901-BFC4-485E-BCAE-C9DF0ACCDAAE&displaylang=en

it could be that the drive has been formatted in error, if you can see it in another pc then copy the data of it and save that.Quote

there was never a flash drive driver in XP or win 2000 this is available now,

hello everybody,
i'm working on a gateway computer that a friend gave me.It has a amd proccessor running xp home edition with sp2.The powe supply had died in it and i replaced the power supply and now the cd-rom won't read a disk.At first i thought it was a bad rom drive.After the 4th one i tryed and none of them reading a disk i thought that i had a connection problem.Yet power is going to it and it opens and closes.The power supply is a 500watt one from A power12v atx.Itook a cd-rom out of one i know worked and it wouldn't read either .So i'm at a loss as to what to do to fix this problem.So any help would be grateful

bmacgurkDoes Device Manager see the drive correctly?

Alan <>< yes it SEES it and there are no error or exclimation marks next to it .I have uninstalled and reinstalled the drivers thinking that will work but to no avail.Anything else you need ALE52?

BMACGURK
Right clik it in Device Manager and select remove...ignore the warning and re-boot.
Windows will automatically re-install it.hi patio,
I TRIED THAT AND I STILL CAN'T GET IT TO READ.I'm going to try to replace the cable and see if that helps any other suggestions is welcome.

bmacgurkGood idea to try...is this on IDE2 ? ?
Are there any other drives on IDE2 ? ?its on ide 2be it's selfOK...

What are the results with a brand-spankin new IDE cable ? ?hey patio,
sorry i took so long 12 hr work days this week.i changed out the ide cable and started up the computer.Now i have a configuation issue.and the cd-rom still don't work.It asks for the setup disk and i can't get the cd-rom to work so i'm at a loss as to what to.First boot is set to cd-rom and can get NOTHING>so the weirdness continues.Any sugguestions you have would be grateful.

bmacgurkChange the boot ORDER to floppy, HDD for now til the CD problem is IRONED out.

The other thing you could try is disconnect all drives EXCEPT for the CDRom and hook it up at the end of the ribbon cable on IDE1 jumper it as master....use a bootable CD for this test.

If it works and is recognised correctly i'm afraid IDE2 channel may be shot on that board.

Have you tried a brand new unit by the way ? ? They're pretty cheap these days. I recently got a dual-layer DVD burner for 40 bucks shipped from newegg.

need some help here. i got a brand new sony dvd - DRU 830A . that
doesnt detect dvds but cds in my computer.. it works fine in my
friend's computer.
any advice?
i forgot to mention that this was tested in the kubuntu installed in my computer and there too, the dvds arent being detected.just the cds.
this drive with the same dvd worked fine in my friend's computer (WINDOWS)..

its an intel P4,asrock motherboard- p4i45gv , intel 845gv chipset..
If it is new and it didn't WORK in 2 machines i would take it back for a replacement ASAP...some burners have more than one laser in them and it sounds as if at least one isn't tracking/working properly.problem solved!!!

the computer guy came , and right AWAY he said the prob's with my dvd writer. i said NO.
then he said its windows' ..i said NO
then i said its bios, he said NO
and then he enabled the secondary ide ata/atapi device (something like that ..inside device manager , that was all !!!!!)..

please add your VIEWS or queries..

appreciate ur help guys @ patio
the dvd writer worked on one machine (my friend's)
it did not work on mine.That is a weird fix because if you would have had that disabled in the device manager it should not have read cd's either. But hey CHEERS thats its fixed!Quote from: saratha911 on June 28, 2007, 08:33:39 AM

@ patio
the dvd writer worked on one machine (my friend's)
it did not work on mine.

I'm TRYING to upgrade this computer with a new system. The old hard drive is IDE with win xp. The new system has a Sata drive. I try to boot up with the IDE drive only, but it tells me it won't.

Do I need to buy an adapter or something to GET the IDE to work with the Sata in the new system?

or perhaps copy the FILES from the IDE to the sata drive first, then install it on the new system?

Any help would be great. Thanks.

ps motherboard is CeForce6100SM-M
Are you trying to use the same install as the old system or did you reinstall windows when you swapped the drive out?Quote from: TehGerg on June 28, 2007, 10:10:52 AM

Are you trying to use the same install as the old system or did you reinstall windows when you swapped the drive out?

Quote from: contrex on June 28, 2007, 02:05:08 PM

You need the RCA jacks for where? To plug in the amplifier?

minus on the amplifier goes to minus on the speaker, and plus goes to plus. using 2 colours of plug helps keep things sorted, plus genuine speaker wires have colour coding of some sort.

But the two wires are of the same color, they are all orange.
ANd they are nothing written at the back end side of the amplifier.

Quote

But the two wires are of the same color, they are all orange.
ANd they are nothing written at the back end side of the amplifier.

This is a wire you made yourself? No colours on the sockets on the amplifier?

Is it a subwoofer? I think it's not so important for them. Anyway you can do some listening and switch 'em around to get the best bass.

I have a DV camcorder (JVC DV model 370-us) that has 3 out ports on it ; #1 is a mini composite single out that on the cable male end plugs into camcorder and other end of cable has one rca video,one rca red aUdio-right and one rca black-left audio that I plug into a capture card. # 2 is a mini USB out on side of camera for it's single photos from its memory card(I use 1gig flash card) and #3 is a mini fire-wire out for the video . Ive used the usb to down load the photos to my pc(using nero for processing images), the mini DV/fire wire Ive not used yet,as I dont own a fire wire card on my pc.I will be replacing my MB soon with one that has a firewire -in built in to board.But in the MEAN time I want to know will a firewire cable that has firewire for pluging into cam. and a usb at other end to plug into pc work the same as if I get a firewire card FORE pc and use firewire to go from the DV/firewire out to the firewire card. Will this be as good as the rca (ANALOG) composit out or BETTER as it will be digital with firewire.
Any help appreciated.A firewire connection allows you to transfer data at higher speeds than USB...so using a cable that has a firewire connection on one end and a USB on the other isn't going to help you.

You need a firewire port on you PC in order for this to work.

Are there any processors that work for the 370 socket?

Please and thanks.Google shows a bunch of them...Socket 370 covers a lot of cpu's what is your present
one your using?

You have PPGA, FC-PGA, and FC-PGA2.

Give us some INFORMATION on what your doing.

If you PRESENTLY have a CPU it should have an
sSpecs Number on it.

See the below picture as an example. SL4PC




Modified*

Ok,its a socket 7,im sure of it(hopefully)

I think the metal part thats blocking the processor chip thingy is the
heatsink?Quote from: CompBoy09 on June 07, 2007, 09:26:45 PM

Modified*

Ok,its a socket 7,im sure of it(hopefully)

I think the metal part thats blocking the processor chip thingy is the
heatsink?

I plan on buying a Pentium ll 300+ MHz processor.Am I suppose to remove the whole heatsink and processor together?

Quote from: CompBoy09 on June 07, 2007, 09:42:28 PM

I plan on buying a Pentium ll 300+ MHz processor.Am I suppose to remove the whole heatsink and processor together?

A Pentium II is a Slot 1 Processor which will not fit in a socket 370 or a SOcket 7 slot.

Are you sure you are up to this?

According to the specs of your m-board 66,100,and133mhz
cpus work so,without a risk you should be able to get a
SL4C8 (Intel Pentium III) 1 GHZ.When you buy the Cpu
get it with heatsink and fan.

A 32 mb graphics card should be all you need.I did not
see if you needed standard ,or low profile card.
PCI/or AGP. Mkae sure you get the right one someone will
post it.I must now leave for work.....Bwahahaha!

shynnie


Yes its working i took it apart (EVERYTHING , even battery) four TIMES and put it back TOGETHER , but when i started to get the NEW computer PARTS they are diff then the ones in this p111.
harley

I was give this. eMACHINEid
Intel Celeron
128Syne DRAM
20 GB HDD
128 L2 cache W/66MHz Bus
3 D agp Graphics
56K Modem

An they didn't kill it before giving it to me.

There is no pointer on screen. I TRIED a PS/2 an a USB mouse.
I tried the options in set up for the mouse no change.

Does the keyboard work? If so...using your keyboard...navigate to the control panel/system/hardware/device manager and see if there are any issues with the installed mouse. You may have to find and install drivers for the mouse...be it USB or PS2.

Other issue may be the mouse port is bad. If so...take it to a tech.The mouse cursor should APPEAR on the screen regardless of whether it senses a mouse or not. Could be weird mouse or display drivers.

If the cursor does not appear even when BOOTING with no mouse then its PROBABLY software/driver based. (I'm guessing here that the OS is like XP or Vista, because I know the cursor will show, even with no mouse).Did this computer come with any CD's? If so, which ones?

Hi guys

first, sorry if my english is BAD. i'm from denmark so my spelling ain't good.

anyways, i bought following:

AMD 64 x2 3800+
ASRock SATA2LIVE-GLAN
2x 1GB DDR2 PC5300? ( 5200 ) Kingston ( dual channel )
Geforce 7800GT 256 DDR

i reinstalled my computer with Windows XP 64x edition which ive been having for a long time, so i decied to get that again.

everything worked awsome, but after what i have figured out... its like if i install SP2 Or some special UPDATES from windows it seems its there it starts getting the PROBLEM.

Problem:

Surfing the internet, it sometimes ( sometimes its very rare, other its very often ) 'freezes' tho the music plays, it can play a whole song through, but when it goes to next song sound stops. and you can move the cursor around as much as you want.

If you click either mouse buttons or KEYBOARD buttons its freezes total. but if u give it some time u can move your mouse a bit. and then it freezes again totally and then u have to restart.

and at the first freeze it says a bip from the computer.

Speedfan when idle: http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/1452/bushotnessur5.jpg

The funny thing is that in games, and programs that takes alot of the computers resources theres no problems at all, no freezes, no weird lag nothing.

Ive tryed to reinstall windows 4 times, and its like after 1-3 days it starts doing the freezing .

If you need other info, ill gladly supply with what i can.
cheers guys!what player are you using ?


download an updated k-lite codec mega pack from here

http://www.free-codecs.com/download/K_Lite_Mega_Codec_Pack.htm

then install it in your computer.Hi m8.

well for movies, avi etc i use GOMPlayer, but ELSE just Winamp and Media Player.
i got k-lite codecs m8.

but i was wondering if it is overheating problem?
but it just seems weird that it does it out in windows and not in games.

Hi guys,

I fairly know the ins and outs of the computer , from the time of 80386. Now I have this issue where a shuttle PC has its PSU gone bonkers.

Events:

1. Everything is turned off.
2. I switch on the AC.
3. The fans whirl and the HDD spins, for about 3 seconds and then dies. This happens without me pushing the front switch of the case.
4. Suspecting the PSU because at the side of the mobo theres this red LED which never lights up. So I isolated the front panel and turned it on by shorting the pins.
5. The thing would turn on for a second then turn off.
6. If I keep doing it, it'll just repeat the step 5. Sounds like a race car

Any ideas guys? I feel like opening this PSU up and taking a look inside. [dangerous] i know [/dangerous]

Have you tried blowing out any dust from the computer (around the fans, mainly)?Its all clean inside.is everything connected properly?do you have another pc you can try the PSU in, or another PSU you can try in that pc?Put in another PSU in place and it works.. However, that PSU won't fit in that small area.
You guys know any guide to diagnose and fix PSUs?

Thanks for helping outplease give shuttle model number for example SD39P2, SN25P, SD37P2 etc. We cannot help you if you give such little information!

In general, cure for dead PSU is to buy a new PSU. As you have Shuttle, (like me) you must get special small Shuttle PSU. But please give model number, there may be information I can give you.



I'm sending you a link to Wikipedia on power supplies:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Computer_power_supply

There are some other useful links on that page about power supplies...

To be honest...you might want to be careful if you intend to remove and repair this PSU, since they do HOLD electrical charges and this will tend to mess up your day if you're not careful. You also might want to see if you can obtain the schematics for your particular PSU...if you intend to work on it.

Otherwise...just get the manufacturer and model number of your PSU and Google it. If you can't find one...you may be able to find one comparable that fits in the existing PSU's space.Quite frankly, if repairing a PC power supply was within your capabilities, (and I am NOT being sarcastic or putting you down) you would not be asking on here. You would have your soldering iron and your digital voltmeter out and be doing it.

For those people who are not already a skilled electronic technician with good diagnosis and repair skills, the standard method of dealing with a failed PSU is replacement.

You need to be able to diagnose and repair a complex piece of electronic equipment, namely a switch-mode power supply.

If you can understand the following and relate it to what you need to do, and understand the danger of electric SHOCK, perhaps you could go ahead. Otherwise in your place I would be contacting Shuttle.

Also called switching power supplies and sometimes chopper controlled power supplies, SMPSs use high frequency (relative to 50/60 Hz) switching devices such as Bipolar Junction TRANSISTORS (BJTs), MOSFETs, Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistors (IGBTs), or Thyristors (SCRs or triacs) to take directly rectified line voltage and convert it to a pulsed waveform.

Most small SMPSs use BJTs or MOSFETs. IGBTs may be found in large systems and SCRs or triacs are used where their advantages (latching in the on state and high power capability) outweigh the increased complexity of the circuitry to assure that they turn off properly (since except for special Gate Turn Off (GTO) thyristors, the gate input is pretty much ignored once the device is triggered and the current must go to zero to reset it to the off state.)

The input to the switches is usually either 150-160 VDC after rectification of 115 VAC, or 300-320 VDC after doubling of 115 VAC or rectification of 220-240 VAC. Up to this point, there is no line isolation as there is no line connected (large, bulky, heavy) power transformer.

A relatively small high frequency transformer converts the pulsed waveform into one or more output voltages which are then rectified and filtered using electrolytic capacitors and small inductors in a 'pi' configuration C-L-C, or for outputs that are less critical, just a capacitor.

This high frequency transformer PROVIDES the isolation barrier and the conversion to generate the multiple voltages often provided by a SMPS.

Feedback is accomplished across the isolation barrier by either a small pulse transformer or opto-isolator. The feedback controls the pulse width or pulse frequency of the switching devices to maintain the output constant. Since the feedback is usually only from the "primary" output, regulation of the other outputs, if any, is usually worse than for the primary output. Also, because of the nature of the switching designs, the regulation even of the primary output is usually not nearly as good both statically and dynamically as a decent linear supply.

Some repair tips here

http://www.smps.us/computer-power-supply.html

If you have not got a good digital voltmeter, a decent temperature controlled soldering iron, a dummy load, etc, you will have to buy or make these things, and you might as well put that money towards a new PSU.

Anyway, that's just my opinion.
thanks contrex for the detailed reply. Yep, i'll take it up as a challenge. Fortunately, currently doing electrical and computer sys eng

guys need HELP.

iv recently bot a 1.7ghz Semptron AMD processor with 512 mb ddr2 Ram. the guy who installed XP with Service pack two installed some driver called SOUND Max. now im unable to connect my mic with my system. first i thought the probem is with mic. I bought a new mic, still it doesnt work. i tried all methods from help in xp. and yes iv crosschecked several times whether iv put the mic in right socket. yes iv. its a standard audio style microphone.


Also lemme tell u the guy who installed this ystem at my place said windows Xp(not sp2) wont work with my system CONFIGURATION, is it true?

My bro has a Laptop which is INTEL CELERON 1.7 ghz processor with Windows XP sp 2 and 256 mb DDR ram. both mics worked perfectly in his system. i found a driver called Realteck in his system.


Any clues how to make it work. pls help me urgently. i have to make a few presentations next week. pls pls pls


Quote from: ronald_peterson on June 09, 2007, 09:55:18 AM

Also lemme tell u the guy who installed this ystem at my place said windows Xp(not sp2) wont work with my system configuration, is it true?

Quote from: ronald_peterson on June 09, 2007, 09:55:18 AM

Also lemme tell u the guy who installed this ystem at my place said windows Xp(not sp2) wont work with my system configuration, is it true?

Not true. Based on what info you've provided, I see no reason whatsoever that SP2 can not be installed.

Are you sure mic is not muted in your volume controls?

the guy who installed this ystem at my place said windows Xp(not sp2) wont work with my system configuration, is it true?

its started to work suddenly. Thanks

ronald_peterson ........

Quote

the guy who installed this ystem at my place said windows Xp(not sp2) wont work with my system configuration, is it true?

I can see no reason xp/sp2 would not work on your system.

Quote

its started to work suddenly. Thanks

Perhaps, for others with a similar mic problem , you might mention what did you change to resolve the issue ?


dl65

Ok, heres the problem. I start the computer up, log into it, and sometimes get to use it for 5 minutes, but then the MONITOR just switches off on its own accord, never had any trouble before, only srated doing it recently, had it about a year and a half, i have cleaned all the ports etc seems ok at the moment, just WANDERING if the cables could be to blame, vid card etc, any help extremely appreciated.Used to have the same sort of problem...

you may want to make sure the GFX Card is in the motherboard properly and not loose as when i used to have the problem i knew next to nothing about computers and kicking it would kinda make it come BACK on again lol

But yeah try and make sure the GFX Card is in properly(Dont kick it ) or if you can try another GFX Card in there.

- FredThis could be from heat also, if the graphics card is caked with dust and heating up in 5 minutes it may be killing it off. Check it out if its full CLEAN it out with some canned air. Also pull the video card out and reseat it. I forgot to say that when the monitor turns off, it dispays the message "no signal" if that makes any difference!yah then the monitor is not turning off that MEANS that the video card stopped transmitting a signal to the monitor

I put together my first build today and I start it up and the machine will shut itself down after about 30 seconds. When I first start it I get a single beep from the MoBo and then it will allow me to go to the BIOS.

Once in the BIOS I LOOK around in the settings but then for no apparent reason it will shut off on its own. Any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated. I won't be responding for some time because I will be at work but thank you for any help you can give.

Also I can see the PSU fan spinning, the cpu fan spinning, all the other fans and lights are on and spinning. I have connected the 24 pin main power and the atx power. I'm 75% sure all the connections inside are correct. There is one cable coming from the PSU that says "P9" on it, whats that?

Final thing is when I'm in the BIOS how do I know the MoBo is recognizing my optical drive?It would help us, immensely, if you could give us some detailed specs about your custom built computer...from the motherboard on up.

We need to know the make and model of the hardware in your computer before we can help you with it.

Thanks in advance...Ok I have:

MOBO: ASUS P5N32-E SLI Plus
PSU: OCZ 600W stealth x stream power supply
CPU: Intel C2D E6600 2.4 ghz
Graphics: Nvidia GeForce 8800GTS 640mb
G.Skill DDR2 RAM 2GB

If there is anything else please let me know.Rather then take a lot of time on this forum trying to determine exactly what it is that may be causing the ISSUE...you might want to start here:

http://support.asus.com/troubleshooting/troubleshooting.aspx?SLanguage=en-us

Troubleshooting it here on the forum could be a little time consuming and you might be better off starting at the above link on your own and let us know if you are still experiencing any issues.

I would suggest you use the following link above, as well as retracing your buil to see if maybe you missed a step or jumper setting.

There's always the possibility of a poor connection, dirty CONTACT, bad memory...or just plain faulty hardware.

If your hardware came with installation manuals...double-check everything and make sure you haven't missed anything...especially settings in BIOS.

A short beep is not an abnormal sound when it comes to turning the PC on. The fact that it goes straight to the BIOS screen may be an indication you have missed a setting somewhere.

Please post back and let us kknow if we can be of any further assistance...but like I said, your instruction manuals and the above link is a great place to start.Quote from: franks2121 on June 08, 2007, 03:01:32 PM

the machine will shut itself down after about 30 seconds. When I first start it I get a single beep from the MoBo and then it will allow me to go to the BIOS.

Final thing is when I'm in the BIOS how do I know the MoBo is recognizing my optical drive?

Hi all, I would like to know how do I CLEAN my Laptop's airvents? I dont want to spray air in the vent because I am afraid that the dust/stuff might go inside my laptop, any help would be great, thanks in advance.They make small specialized car vacuums these days, (also tiny little vaccums for keyboards..) make SURE its a RUBBER attachment or or brush attachment touching your notebook if you can. Any small vacuum is all I can think of.

here's one example on a "google" search

http://www.office1000.com/discount/vacuum-cleaners-computer.htmlNot to promote another forum, but I found this guide QUITE useful.
Hope this helps.I personally see no problem with this approach...some Forums are very specialised indeed.

And the other's i volunteer at send many people here so i think it's whatever is needed at the time...thank you for that guide it was very helpful to me. You're welcome.

Last night I went to shut my computer down as it shut down the computer fan dtart to become more loud! It seemed to be ok then I went through and it seemed to be trying to switch itself back on but it was not able to it kept GOING off and on. The harddrive light was coming on and off. There was no beeps from the computer and the screen looked like it was trying to come on?
Also the computer had been running really slow for few weeks.

please can anyone help with what this could be?Try Cleaning your computer out, as the fans or components may have been unable to operate properly DUE to overheating or excessive amounts of dust restricting movement.

If the noise was actually coming from a case or CPU fan I recommend replacing it ASAP as that is generally a surefire sign that it is dying.nice one will try this when i GET back from work i thought that but just wanted to get other people THOUGHTS I thought maybe the ram was going along with the fan? I will try this and update

thanks Quote from: smoosh on June 28, 2007, 04:06:24 AM

nice one will try this when i get back from work i thought that but just wanted to get other people thoughts I thought maybe the ram was going along with the fan? I will try this and update

thanks

I am using an ASUS motherboard. The problem is when I installed the Windows XP SP 2, I cannot FIND a compatible USB 2.0 driver for it. The CD that come with the motherboard have only an USB driver compatible with Windows 98 and ME. I can't find a driver for my motherboard that is compatible with Windows XP. I am thinking of upgrading my motherboard to a new ones. I am using a Intel P4 processor. Can I upgrade the motherboard that is compatible with my processor and use my old processor in it? Or I also have to upgrade or replace my processor with a new ones?

Thank you very much for your help.

might not have to, but what's your price range anyway
What model of motherboard do you have?any price that is affordable...

maybe around PHP3000 - PHP5000

its in Philippine PESO...

its our currency here...

I am planning of upgrading it so that I will have a USB 2.0 driver that is compatible with Windows XP SP 2.

Because my old ASUS Motherboard is not supporting it.

So im just wanna know if I can get my processor from my old ASUS motherboard and put in a new motherboard that will support the processor.

Is that possible?

Or I also have to upgrade my processor?

thank you.
Quote from: Calum on June 10, 2007, 10:48:45 AM

What model of motherboard do you have?

I have a Toyota...

wait..

I'll just check it...

thanks....

Need advice on best WAY to proceed. I think my hd is GETTING ready to go SOUTH as its starting to make a "clunking" noise at times. Being on a small pension & with 3 in college i have to look for work arounds on computer issues. My concern is being able to re-boot if hd crashes before i can replace. I DO NOT have the original XP cd as i bought the system used. Also if i install 2nd hd should i move data from old hd to new & remove old or just leave in place? At my location memory stick is HALF the price of the hd. Is there a way to put on floppy enough to get the system running again just in case. Open to any suggestions.

ThanksStop using the machine as soon as possible if you are hearing HDD noises...otherwise you risk LOSING everything.

The new HDD should come with an installatiion CD ........use this to clone the old HDD to the new one.

If you are lucky the old one will run long enough to make this possible

If not you may be shopping for an XP CD.

I play Battlefield 2, and I jsut recently baught the Booster Pack from Microcenter. The original game works just fine, but whenever I put in the Booster Pack CD to install it, my CD Drive starts making weird scratching noises and it does not read the CD. I already tried exchanging the CD's to see if maybe the disc was defective, but neither disc that I have baught works.

Any ideas?

Thanks!I am not a gamer but,do you have a DVD-rom or just
a CD-rom?

Peripheral Devices Required:
8x DVD-ROM Drive, Sound Card, 3D VIDEO Card with 128MB of Video Memory

Supported Video Card Chipsets:
nVidia GeForce FX 5700 or greater; ATI Radeon 8500 or greater

I beleive its just a CD Rom...it says nothing about DVD on there.

Sorry, kinda a newb with hardware.I added to reply#1 after you posted sorry.

The Battlefield 2 Booster Pack requires a 8xDVD Rom.

You may presently have a CD-Writer or just a Cd-Rom.

Have you ever been able to watch DVD's on your computer
in question?A brand NEW DVD burner is around 40 bucks shipped from newegg...if you're in the States.Street1- Yup, thats the problem. The Original version doesn't require a DVD drive for whatever reason, thats why it was working.
Thanks a lot for you help!

Patio- now that I know what I NEED, thanks for the tip on where to find it!Your welcome,If I was a gamer,I could have told you sooner.

Anyway glad patio gave you the good link.---->Newegg.And when you get yourself a brand new DVD drive, we can help you install it! Heh.Well, I have taken my computer apart a few times, so hopfully I will know how to put one of these babys in. Unforunately, I may be kind of

hey all
my pc monitor is working fine but the colour on it aint normal colour no MATTER what colour the page is its always blue i have took the cable from my monitor to my hardrive out and put it back it but it dont seem to be working


can anyone esle suggest anythink that might help

thanks in advanceQuote from: little_jack on June 27, 2007, 04:32:47 PM

i have took the cable from my monitor to my hardrive out

i have a 160watt power supply in my computer and was gutting one of my other computer cases and found a 430watt one. My question is can i just simply swap the 160 for the 430 and be on my way or is there more to it than that?I want to find out to. I'm planning on switching a 600W for like a 700W-1000W. Dunno what to do?..You need to determine what MBoard you have...sounds like an older one if the PSU is 160 Watts.

Newer MBoards require a 24 pin PSU but it will work in a 20 pin setup.

You should be fine.Perhaps you can but, if you have a branded name computer.
Compaq,Gateway etc.....it may only use the type PSU provided
by the manufacturer.This is usually called Proprietary.




Of course patio may be correct too.Remember I have
'zygodactyl' toe arrangement on my feet.So the "Big Toe" is no longer in charge ? ?the computer is made by gateway but has been changed so many times by myself and i think its from 2004 it dont look like the newer COMPUTERS

all the pins fit when i hooked it up so does that mean it will work? i didnt count the pins tho Looks like you'll be fine jimb20.thx both of you! xDdon't connect Dell and other brand PSUs and MOTHERBOARDS together. The plugs will fit but they will fry!
Quote from: contrex on June 11, 2007, 03:07:51 AM

don't connect Dell and other brand PSUs and motherboards together. The plugs will fit but they will fry!

Hi,

I could really use some help! I have a Dell Inspiron Laptop.
Today, I was playing a CD, I opened the drive, took it out, went to put in another CD and it suddenly wouldn't fit into the drive. It wouldn't clip into place. I can't TELL what happened. There's a small black disc that I can REMOVE and the CD will fit, but it causes a lot of skipping on the CD. But, with the black disc in place, the CD won't snap into place anymore. Can anyone help me?

Thanks!!Wow thats a crazy one man. The cd that you were playing is it the same size with the one you want to play.And the black small cd were did it came from and what does it do?

It should fit in if you take the black cd out but my question is how did you play the 1st Disc
" I was playing a CD" quoted and is it the same size?

Answer this questions first..

Cheers man Calum will pop in now.The small black disc is like a thin washer. It assume it was ALWAYS there. Its one of those THINGS you don't notice until a PROBLEM occurs.

The CD I was playing was a standard burned CD and the one I tried to put in after that was the same thing. The last disc that played right was a normal, everyday CD that I've used since I got my laptop last year. I've never had a problem until today. what size is the ''washer like black disc'' and what size and depth are the grooves on the tray? i assume that something with either the cd or the tray is out of alignment, but it's hard for a tray to deform...Perhaps,A new drive for 30-40 USA dollars.Repair of a drive
is usually futile.Is it just the one CD that doesn't fit, or does this problem happen with all CD's?
It sounds like maybe the center of the CD was a bit too small and it might have bent one of the little metals things that snaps the CD into place. If this is the case, you might want to see if you can bend it back into place with a small screwdriver or a butterknife.I thought the butterknife was only for RMA'ing a MBoard....


And for trying to get Raptor killed!Quote from: CBMatt on June 27, 2007, 02:54:58 PM

And for trying to get Raptor killed!

Hello all.

I have a Dell XPS Gen II system with a SAMSUNG DVD-ROM in bay 1 and a brand new Samsung DVD-R/RW in bay 2. I have just physically installed the new DVD-R/RW drive and when I went to install the hardware, I went to My Computer to open my DVD-ROM, which had the install disk in it, and the drive vanished before my eyes. (Both DRIVES still have power however) Now neither bay 1 or 2 are recognized in My Computer rendering them useless other than the world's most expensive cup holders.

I've had this problem before a long time ago and I can't remember how I fixed it. Check off what you did?

http://www.build-your-own-computer-tips.com/install-a-cd-rom-drive.html

Double check BIOS , make sure all cables are intact , remove the drives completely along with all attachments ... and RECONNECT it all .... go BACK into bios ... and check ... could be a loose cable ....don't worry,it's just the jumper setting behing the drive,try finding the right combination.
Quote from: kuszmania9999 on September 11, 2007, 11:08:15 PM

don't worry,it's just the jumper setting behing the drive,try finding the right combination.

I am building a new system! This is the first one I have ever built with sata harddrives in it! Here is my question:

I have 2 250 GB Harddrives hooked up via sata cables.Do I hook the CD Rom up to the primary or secondary cable? Also is it a SLAVE or a master?

As I am probably over thinking this so please excuse any stupid questions from me!

ForsakenSince you have no IDE DRIVES hook it up as master on the primary IDE channel...THANKS!!!

Another quick question.....

With sata do I need to set one of the hard drives as slave or is that doe auto becuase of the sepperate hook-ups on the board?There aren't any master/slave settings with most SATA drives,,,SATA1 will be the boot drive so checkout your MBoard docs or VISIT the website to find out which is which....
Or if you're not half blind like me you MAY be able to read the writing by the pins on the MBoard...

How do I reset the bois to the default SETTINGS when I can't access the bios via turning it on?

Does taking out the ONBOARD battery reset the bios?

Any help on this WOULD greatly be appreciated!
Have a read :

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_reset_the_BIOS

Tony

O.K. Here's the deal...

I have a brand new T5088 emachines PC with an Intel Pentium 4 CPU 3.20 GHz, 501MB, 32-bit Operating System running Vista.

I kept my old Dell LCD 17"flat panel monitor. (model 1704FPT1) About a week ago while I was online (offline too) the screen got real bright and then just went black. I turned it off and BACK on and it came on for a nano second and then black again. I can sit here and turn it off and on and it keeps going back to black. After about a minute or two it comes back. So now I just turn it off and WAIT a minute or two and turn it back on. I have not timed the up time in between blackouts. But it seems to be random. I don't think there is an exact pattern. (Seems the more important the thing I am doing, the more it does it! LOL)

I have tried SEARCHING for updated drivers but it comes back saying that the best driver is installed. I have been through lots of help screens and troubleshooting. I cannot find anything about this. Can anyone help?

I am freaking out!! It is really bugging me if we are in the middle of something important when it goes out. PLEASE help!
Thanks, Smarge Hook the monitor up to another working machine...if ti exhibits the same symptoms it is on it's way to computer heaven...

Here's the setup: primary master and slave are optical devices. I have my original IDE HDD set up as secondary master. I installed a second IDE hard disk as a slave. This disk came from another computer with the same setup, so I know it works. When I boot my pc, it stops at the ASUS motherboard bios screen, unless I enter the BIOS menu. While the BIOS is booting, it doesn't detect the new slave and SMART reports that my master drive is BAD. I've checked both DRIVES out and they work. When the slave isn't plugged in the master SMART status is ok, and the slave works in the pc it came from. Help please?

Also I'm not COMPLETELY sure of the jumper settings. It worked as a slave previously, so I assumed it is set properly. Might that not be the case?Try setting the jumpers on both drives USING the jumpers for cable select to see if this works for ya.Hard drives should be Primary devices...you are just allowing the BIOS to CONFUSE Windows this way...

Will a 54Mbps ROUTER work on a 106(I think it is)Mbps adapter.
Because my adapter is not working, it wont connectYes it should. But REMEMBER. You are only as fast as your slowest point of connection. Can you POST a little more information about your router and about the NIC though? That way we can be SURE.

My dvd/cd rw drive no longer even reads dvds. I have tried updating the DRIVER, even have reinstalled windows, it worked for a minute then back to not READING them. any sugestions?
tictwac ..... Was this before or after spilling the water on the keyboard ?

dl65 dvd problem came before the water issue
Quote from: tictwac on June 26, 2007, 08:16:33 PM

My dvd/cd rw drive no longer even reads dvds. I have tried updating the driver, even have reinstalled windows, it worked for a minute then back to not reading them. any sugestions?