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Just speculating but the defaults for boot prty must have been floppy>hard drive >(CD-ROM disabled) the computer shop changed it to floppy->CD-ROM->harddrive. also previously both hard dirves had to have been enabled. The only thing that makes sense was some how when my C drive fried it self some how the BIOS setting for hard drive D changed from enable to disabled. When I tried booting after adding the backup harddrive it couldn't boot D drive because it was disabled. Once I enabled it every thing was fine. Now I need to get a new CASE so the new C drive I buy won't get fried I am considering an Antec Sonata IIAgain this doesn't happen...a HDD frying will not MAKE changes to the BIOS.All I know is that that day before the night my HD fried the system worked fine,
I leave it on over night to do defarag and virus scan. Next day I got up discovered my HD was fried took out old ONE put in backup partitioned it formated it when I tried to access my D drive for backups I kept GETTING the message. I never touched BIOS and no one else did. Never opened BIOS until it was SUGGESTED to change boot priority. Did that while I was there I looked at other setting and found under HDs that D drive was disabled didn't touch it then but the more I thought about it I thought that made sense to be the answer i then I enabled D drive that solved the problem
That's all I can say. Maybe something else changed BIOS I don't know???

Alright im just learning about computers =p and i thought i would try to fix my mom's COMPUTER to see how MUCH i know but now im stuck XD and my mom's computer seems really messed up

okay it started off when her monitor just totally turned off, the comp, mouse, and keyboard was still on.

i told her just to restart to computer because i thought there was just some loose wires in the monitor but when she restarted it, the mouse and keyboard stopped working and the computer kept saying "system failure memory "something" (wasnt able to understand all of what it was saying)

Im guessing something's up with the memory stick?

Help! please and thanks =)You need to get it repaired at a shop.
Or you can post with the exact wording of the error message that's being displayed on the monitor.Yes, it is the memory. Either it's fried, failed or not seated properly. Go into your bios and see if any memory is recognized. If not, try (with the computer OFF) removing the RAM and cleaning out the slot with some air duster, then put it back in.

If none of this works, you probably need new RAM. Be careful when buying new RAM that you get RAM that the motherboard can handle. It should be listed in the book for the motherboard or you can look it up online.the thing is.... my hardware components wont work so i cant see anything on screen, cant type, cant move/see mouse cursor

the error is being broadcasted through the speakers (so at least the speakers work but the other three dont)

so what does my hardware have to do with my memory and why its not working?Oh my. In that case, you need a new motherboard at least. From there you can work your way around the other components to see if anything else is bad. A bad mobo can give false error codes. If it was just the RAM you would at least get a picture on the screen.i guess i should give you the stats about it

i dont know much about it since i dont use it

it is a 5 year old computer built for gaming (5 years ago XD)
hasnt been UPGRADED since
been cleaned out once through the 5 years
atm it was running on xp professional

thats all i can remember from it

maybe being that old maybe it was time for it to pass away
heheTry cleaning it out first...use compressed air and be careful of ESD...electrostatic discharge.

Then give it another shot...

If there were no RECENT hardware or software changes...your computer may need just a thorough cleaning.5 years is a long time in the computer world.

Quote from: contrex on June 30, 2007, 12:16:16 PM

5 years is a long time in the computer world.

Dear Sir,
I bought a HARD disk drive with the following SPECIFICATION , Now I want to Know " Is the CACHE for performance of this hard 16 MB or 8 MB ? Your quick reply will be appreciated.
HDD model: MAXTOR DiamondMax21 STM3500630AS 500 GB* SAATA PN :9DP146-326 S/N: 9QG26QHM Firmware : 3.AAE 3.5 Series 7200.10http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/products/desktops/diamondmax/diamondmax_21/
if i wasn't HALF blinded,looks like 8mb
it's written there..

Do laptops have batteries on their MOTHERBOARDS (those little round, flat one's) or is the clock powered by the laptops main battery?The batteries on laptops are the same as those found on desktop motherboards...CMOS.In my laptop i stripped a screw, so i guess when the battery goes dead i won't be able to replace it.What does STRIPPING a screw have to do with replacing the CMOS battery on your laptop?

If you can get the laptop open and get to the motherboard where the battery is located...you can simply pop it out and replace it...be careful you don't pop the base off that secures the battery, though.That's my point, i cant get to the motherboard because the screw is stripped. i cant undo the screw to open the laptopTry a larger or sharper phillips head screw driver. If you can't get the case open...you can't change the battery.

Can't help you when it comes to removing screws.Can you still use the computer if the battery is dead?
Basically...it's just used for keeping time...but if it's dead...you should replace it.It also holds the setup information in ROM so yes you can and will have issues down the road.
I'd suggest a service SHOP in your area.
They've PROBABLY come across this issue before and would best know how to deal with it.

I've been using the Samsung SyncMaster 906BW for a few months now, enjoying it with no problems.

So when I decided to update my video card to one that had a dvi out I started having some problems. At first the the monitor won't DISPLAY the digital connection, it just goes from analog to digital, black to black. So I thought it was weird and I just plugged in the vga cable did some WORK and went to bed. When I woke up I noticed that it was displaying through dvi. I had both the cables CONNECTED overnight. So it was working fine till I decided to reboot.

After the reboot it would only display through vga. I tried disconnecting the vga cable and only CONNECTING through dvi and the monitor still wouldn't display through dvi. So I left it on for the day and when I came home it was displaying through dvi again. So from now on whenever I reboot I have to use vga and wait for the monitor to switch to the dvi connection.

Another weird thing is the windows loading screen will display through dvi while its booting but it goes black when it tries to go to the welcome screen where you choose which account you want to use.

So I was wondering if anyone here KNOWS what the problem is? I just want my monitor to display through dvi without any problems. Any help would be greatly appeciated.

I need to get into my LAPTOP keyboard to REPAIR some water DAMAGE. Anyone know how to do this without destroying the CASE??I'd recommend visiting the following site and PAY $10 for a repair manual for your laptop:

http://computerdoc.homestead.com/ToshibaSatelliteMaintenance.html

hi i have a PC with these DETAIL:
cpu: 3.06 intel
ram:1.gig
H.D.D:200 gig sata2 maxtor
DVD/RW:Teak
mainboard:ASUS P5- GD2
and i use WIN xp sp2 pro
***************************
my problem is :when i do COPY from a dvd or cd to harddisk
speed of transfer is very very low
i tested DVD/RW on another system and this work very nice
and i tested another o.d.d on this system and it was very slow too
i know i have a problem with my main board
how i can fix iti must add this that DVD/RW use IDE cableYour problem might be that the drive is using PIO mode.
Check the guide here.
If that doesn't work you might be MISSING a driver for your motherboard.

I've been looking on eBay and found a good deal on a laptop computer:
HTTP://cgi.ebay.com/Compaq-ARMADA-110-Laptop-700mhz-320MB-10GB-Windows-XP_W0QQitemZ320119959939QQihZ011QQcategoryZ140082QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting
specs:
700MHz celeron
320MB RAM
10GB HDD
14" LCD
AC adapter
Battery (holds charge, supposedly)
Windows XP Media Center (notice how none of the pictures show it with any os loaded)
If it it what he says, this will be a sweet deal, if not, well Ièm screwed because the guarantee is non-DOA only.I wouldn't risk it. Keep the $130 you would spend and save it. Save $20-$50 a month from your paycheck and buy something good when you have enough money.A 700 Mhz Celeron and a 10 gig hard drive with 320 RAM with Media Center? I hope you have another OS to load.

I would pass, but I know you are an Armada fan. i do, I have 98se, 2000, XP home, kubuntu 6.10, vectorlinux...
I'm not an armada fan, I just keep finding them.It looks like you found 3! ok how about this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Dell-Latitude-CPx-H500GT-PIII-500mhz-256mb-12gb-Laptop_W0QQitemZ220115543564QQihZ012QQcategoryZ140080QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItemI am using a Latitude CPxJ right now which is quite comparable. Win2K works fine on it. what about games and movies, how good can it play anything better than n64 quality?How about this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEC-Versa-LXI-Laptop-with-windows-2000-professional_W0QQitemZ180126522110QQihZ008QQcategoryZ177QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
QUOTE from: linuxlover on May 29, 2007, 08:01:09 PM

what about games and movies, how good can it play anything better than n64 quality?

perhaps I should change my avatar...

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone might be able to help me. I got problem with my MONITOR. It's FLICKERING. I have TRIED to increase the SCREEN resolution as well as the screen refresh rate(from 60Hz to 75Hz) but to no avail.

I use a laptop with 15.4 inch screen and another monitor (19 inch) as a secondary monitor. Is this the cause? because they are not compatible or ?

Thank you in advanceis the monitor is CRT type? if you are SENSITIVE to flicker 75 Hz is too slow. Try adjusting brightness and contrast. if monitor is old and/or cheap model consider replacement.

Hi, can you PLEASE TELL me how I can change the PARALELL PORT to EPP or ECP in this BIOS setup. The bios is the one that came with my Acer Aspire 5613AWLMi

Thanks

Can you dual-boot Windows & Mac on an Intel based machine (a laptop or PC that isn't an apple product)?COPY & paste your question in google and .................

see how many times you get the YES answer * MAC is STILL an operating system, as well as Windows

Hello to all, I am in need of great help. I made an account here because I am hoping you guys could help me out. This problem has CAUSED me a lot of stress, and I am seriously worried about damaging my PC.

Recently, I took everything out of my HP m7658n desktop PC and placed them inside my new case. Everything except my power supply. I am certain that everything is connected correctly, just like it was in it's old HP tower. When I plug everything in and switch on the power supply, I get the following message on my screen:

ERROR: system fan has failed
Press F2 to continue

When I try to press F2, nothing happens. What's going on here?
Sounds like your fan is not connected correctly. Are you sure you plugged in everything exactly the same?Yes, I am 99% sure. As a matter of fact, when the system is powered up, all fans are running PERFECTLY fine.I really don't know what the problem is. Click here, maybe it will answer your question.Hmmm, that doesn't seem to help MUCH. I just hope my motherboard isn't DAMAGED or something. Quote from: trancer on June 05, 2007, 05:54:54 PM

Everything except my power supply.

Hi,
What are the BEST PROCESSORS, at the moment.
And will they work with this motherboard- BioStar (For INTEL Processor), PT890 Chipset works with Intel Core 2 Duo And enables 2moro.
ThanksThis one should work for you. It's the one I currently use at home and it is a nice little processor. If you want to you can go here and take a look at some other Intel Duo Core Processors.Will this work
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Intel-Core-2-Duo-E6600-2-4-GHz-E6600-Boxed_W0QQitemZ300146974271QQihZ020QQcategoryZ96868QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
In this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=230163835285&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=013 That is the best one in the world

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/521/1/Quote from: saint_hades on September 07, 2007, 01:16:47 AM

Will this work
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Intel-Core-2-Duo-E6600-2-4-GHz-E6600-Boxed_W0QQitemZ300146974271QQihZ020QQcategoryZ96868QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
In this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=230163835285&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=013

My Compaq Presario Laptop broke a little while ago. It wont turn on fully. THe lights go solid then they start to blink the SCREEN Blinks also and it never completly even turns on. Ive had my computer only for about 4 months but hp told me it was void of it warranty because the screen had a dead pixel.(they said the screen was broken and told me to get it fixed i have to pay them $700 for a laptop i bought from best buy for $450. Anyway i know how to fix desktop computers and ive been venturing into fixing laptops.Anyone know how to fix this problem or what my be the problem. I Have a video on youtube of the laptop and a few things i was going to sell with it when i was going to let it go on ebay but it didnt sell. It shows how the laptop turns on and how it blinks and cuts off. Hope someone has a idea of whats wrong.
HERES the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLrXjd85Tvg

http://www.youtube.com/v/KLrXjd85Tvg">http://www.youtube.com/v/KLrXjd85Tvg" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" HEIGHT="350">That is a bunch of BS from HP. I'd DEMANDDon't you hate it when your finger hits the wrong BUTTON

Like I said, HP is selling you a woof-ticket. I'd talk to someone else about the problem @ HP. The one dead pixel has nothing to do with the fact that your system doesn't boot.

Squeak really loud and you just might get satisfaction.

Can you take it back to the place where you bought it?

Alan <>< I tried taking it back to best buy when it first stoped working they told me since i didnt buy my warranty from them they couldnt do nothing about it and that i have to send it to HP. When i sent it to HP they told gave me talk about sending it for repair. When I sent it for repair I called them a few days later to check on the status and they gave me a BIG run around. They sent me to like 3 different departments. Then i talked to a customer care associate who said that the price was $700 for the repairs. I told her about how much i paid and that i felt that the repair should be that much. She then told her manager to call me back. The Manager said that we can reduce the price a little but the screen is still not covered so i will have to pay $475. I told her that i refuse to pay that because my computer was still under warranty and she told me that she would just send it back unrepaired then. So I thought after that the only choice i have is to sell it. I

Hi,
I RECEIVED a DVD video ,home MADE but edited by a Pro.
I would like to copy the DVD, so i can SEND it to my friend.
I don't know how to do it. It is a first with DVD.
I try a few things with Nero, but nothing work.
I have RealPlayer , but did not try it.
The files from the DVD are read only.
My PC is a XP.
Help, Help.....
BEST regards,
YK. Just download 'BlindWrite'It has a 3 WEEK trail.

One of the best I have seen for ease.

You know you need a Dvd recorder on your PC.

Go to the below link.

http://www.vso-software.fr/download.phpI downloaded the "1Clicl DVD copy 5 " and "BlindWrite 5", they work wonderfully.
thanks. Best regards.
YK

Hi guys,
I have an Asus A8N-E nForce4 motherboard with the ethernet adapter built right in. I built this machine about 7 months ago and it's been working like a charm until now. It seems that nothing I can do can get this machine to connect to the internet. I plug in an old machine and connection works just fine, so it's not the cable modem. Drivers are new, tried system restore, tried opening the case and thumping the thing but no use. I'm afraid I may just have to replace the motherboard but wanted to check with you guys FIRST. Is there something I'm missing?
Here are some specs if they're useful:
Motherboard - Asus A8N-E Socket 939 Nvidia nForce4 Ultra ATX AMD
Processor - AMD Athlon 64 3500+ Venice 2.2GHz
Operating System - Windows XP HomeNeed...more...info...gasp

Antivirus & antispyware protection / scanned for viruses and spyware lately / SERVICE packs installed / when did it start happening / did it ever work right / installed any new software / checked Device Manager for status of the NIC?

If the NIC is built-in to the the motherboard, you can disable it in Device Manager and replace it with a PCI NIC instead of replacing the whole motherboard.

Alan <>< Thank you for the reply!
I ran Adaware but that's as far as I've gone. It started happening about a week ago. After it happened the first time, unplugged the machine and PLUGGED in an older one...worked fine. Plugged the new machine back in after a few days and CONNECTED fine for about 2 days until it stopped again. Haven't installed any service packs and I'm embarrassed to say I don't have any antivirus software. The Device manager says it's working properly as far as I can tell.
Thanks for the info on the PCI NIC...I beleive I have a slot available so I'll TRY that if nothing else works.Quote from: ale52 on June 06, 2007, 08:25:27 AM

If the NIC is built-in to the the motherboard, you can disable it in Device Manager and replace it with a PCI NIC instead of replacing the whole motherboard.

I recently had COX digital telephone installed. The modem was upgraded from a Motorola SB5120 to a SBV5220. I am no longer able to establish a connection at http://192.168.100.1 to check my cable modem signal levels. I either get a banner message "Internet Explorer cannot display the webpage" or I am challenged for a Username and a password to Login on an otherwise blank green screen. I read elsewhere to enter "root" for both the username and password challenge, but that does not work. I have never had that happen before with http://192.168.100.1. Is it because I switched modems? How do I now go about checking my cable modem signal levels?
THANKS!Can you ping 192.168.100.1 / get an instruction manual with the new modem / is it a modem router or just a modem / reset the modem to defaults?

Alan <><

user admin
password motorola Thanks! The Username and Password obtained access. My readings are:

Downstream SNR: 37
Downstream Power: +12dBmV
Upstream Power: 41dbvM

On a side note, I have a Viewsonics (Model VSMA 608-C-10R) amplifier that receives the incoming RG6 coaxial cable at the garage point-of-entry and splits it 8 ways without signal loss (as opposed to a 1:8 splitter). The viewsonics amp has a 3.5dB GAIN on each pathway and a 0.0dB return path loss. I retrofitted my entire house with 8 homeruns of Belden 1694A RG6 coaxial cable to work in conjunction with the Viewsonics amp; one of the homeruns goes directly to my cable modem.

Is it necessary to perhaps introduce a 1:2 splitter at the cable modem (and terminate the unused outbound) to reduce the downstream power, or is +12dBmV acceptable given the SNR reading?

THANKS again!
Looks Ok to me. I would LEAVE it alone unless i was GETTING trouble. Perhaps your particular service supplier would have an opinion about that +12dBmV. It's within the DOCSIS spec though.

Here are your readings, cut with my UK ISP's recommendations for acceptable performance

Quote

Downstream SNR: 37

Downstream Power: +12dBmV

Upstream Power: 41dbvM

Pressing the power-switch (mains power supply and battery indicator lights being already on), results in the following:-
(a) Screen indicator light turns on.
(b) Hard disc indicator light comes on for about 2 seconds and then goes off.
(c) The dark screen has a message: Remove incompatible Memory module in bay A. When the same added memory module is transferred to bay B, the message mentions bay B.
2. When added memory module is removed, no message is shown on pressing the power switch thereafter.
3. On operating the re-set switch, the disc indicator light comes on for about 2 seconds and then goes off.
4. When power switch is PRESSED to turn off the computer, after exactly 30 beeps, the screen-indicator light goes off, leaving the mains supply and battery indicator lights on.
5. Pressing Escape, F1 or F2 or in combinations after pressing the power switch does not show set-up. The screen stays dark.
6. Pressing power switch, after removing added memory module, battery, DVD drive and hard disc, does not present any message. Pressing switches as in para 5 above does not show set-up and the screen remains dark. Pressing power switch to turn-off the computer gives 30 beeps as before.
Could somebody advise fix and oblige?
Did you add a new memory module to your computer?
Does your computer work after you remove the memory module?Thanks.
I am not the first user. There is only one module in the slot, the other slot is empty. Removing this only module results in what has been STATED earlier. I thought that the basic memory was inside the computer, as in some LAPTOPS, but as per user manual on line, the basic memory is supposed to reside in one of the slots: Aor B.Okay, since I own this exact model of laptop, I should be able to help you here. First of all, no. There is no on board memory.
You already tried the first thing I was going to suggest (swapping the memory between the two slots, because Tecra 8100's are notorious for memory slot failure).
Now, it sounds to me like the RAM you put in it is either too slow, or too fast for the computer. Tecra 8100s take PC-100 RAM, so enusre that that's what you're trying to install.
I've also noticed that some OEM RAM won't work in it either.
But, did the RAM function properly at one point? If so, then it's a bad SODIMM.
Your best bet would be to get a different SODIMM and test it.
Good luck!
-JohnThanks.
The PC100(EXISTING) worked before. I am going to follow your suggestion.I replaced the defective one by a good PC 100 RAM 256MB. No change except that the error message asking removal of the incompatible memory did not appear again.
It did not even enter set-up when Esc pressed immediately after pressing system power switch and waiting for instructions to pres F1. Hence, could not select "boot from CD drive" though I have installation software CD. It does not have internal floppy drive. I did not inherit the external.Did you try traveling to the manuf. site for directions on CLEARING and re-setting the CMOS ? ?I went to manuf.com but could not locate information on clearing and re-setting CMOS. Please help.

My Gpu keeps overheating as my furthest pci slot for my xfi sound card is to close, there is no air circulation between the cards. There are flexible pci extension cables that would help, I'm just not sure with compatability, I have Asus a8v-vm motherboard, is there anything anyone can suggest to seperate the two cards?
Cheersstart at the problem*
what type of graphics card do you have in that board.
what type of case do you have, number of fans, do you have a "hot" cpu and / or a good heatsink/cpu fan or a stock fan ?

Is modifying your case an option ?.... there are ways to increase air flow and cooling (could you post a pic of your case or link to it?)
I used that same board in a build for my son and it has ~decent~ spacing on the pci slots....I have no heat problems with any ASPECT of my pc other than the graphics card, It's an NVIDIA 7600gt. If i remove the xfi sound card everything runs fine, but with the card installed there is literally 2 inches between the gpu fan and the sound card. it will operate normally fine, its only when it starts to get pushed the temp alarm will go off. Ill try n get a pic posted.
There are no problems with the case, its literally just that the gpu fan cant breath with the sound card (in the furthest Pci slo) smuthering ithttp://img180.imageshack.us/img180/4391/picture001td6.jpg
http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/343/picture005ej0.jpg
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/1379/picture011pi4.jpg

bad quality i know but best to handGreat reply/ pics, question*
do you still have an extra slot between those two cards (kinda hard to see) ?

if you do, antec makes a fan which fits in between cards. The ONE I have is quite thick and might not fit in your scenario.... (it takes up two slots)...

The 7600gt you have must be screaming (you are a hard gamer!! ) mine is just as close to my BLASTER audiogy se and I have no heat issues ?(1) IDEA> might consider REPLACING the "fan" in that card... that might reduce your heat issues some and probably be a lot quieter than the stock fans on those cards....(2) pain in the *censored* but; you could install a 80mm out-take fan
with a "little" Side Air duct on that panel door ? Take some time and not too much money and might redirect that hot stuff right out the side.

I will check around this morning on some possible alternatives on that slot fan and maybe someone like "Calum" might come by with a good idea* ... You called?
LOL.
honvetops' suggestions are great, as I see it your problem is the heat between the cards and that it just stays there because the fan on the graphics card just pushes air against the sound card.
I'd say any of honvetops' suggestions should work great.
Some bigger pictures might help though, do you have any more?
Especially of the side of the clear case so we can see the case and the cards inside.

Not sure if this is the right place to post this or not, but help would be appreciated.

As of some point yesterday, when I press Fn+F5 (on this laptop - Fujitsu Amilo, 1GB of RAM, Intel Centrino processor, running on XP - the shortcut for turning the volume up) I BECOME unable to select anything. I can move the mouse, but can't click anything. I can press the windows key to bring up the start menu, but can't scroll down to any programs.

What's more, I've tried System Restore, but after I restart it tells me system restore couldn't be done. I've done a full virus scan, nothing was found.

This isn't the only thing that causes it - last night when I closed Trillian the same thing happened. I'm now having to be very careful about what I do now in CASE I trigger it.

If anyone knows what this PROBLEM is and how I can fix it, please help, cheers.If it's at all possible...update your operating system by visiting Windows update. Download and install the latest high-priority updates. Update your malware protection. Boot into Safe Mode and run full system scans with your malware SOFTWARE. They should delete or quarantine any infections they find. When done...boot into Windows normally and run your scans again...

Keep us posted.does it not actually do what you want it to when you click? for example: if you press the window key and the start menu comes up, are the options HIGHLIGHTED and don't do anything when clicked on? or are they not highlighted?
i get the feeling it's a driver issue...Quote from: reaper_tbs on June 30, 2007, 08:21:24 AM

does it not actually do what you want it to when you click? for example: if you press the window key and the start menu comes up, are the options highlighted and don't do anything when clicked on? or are they not highlighted?
i get the feeling it's a driver issue...

They're not highlightend, it's not like they're not there I guess...

I have two desktops and one monitor. What I usually do is just KEEP switching the cords from my desktop to the monitor. Is there a cord that has two of those things that plug into the desktop and the other end has one that plugs into the monitor? So that way whichever one is on it goes to the monitor instead of me keep switching the cords out like that. ALSO I dont have room for having a desktop for each computer because of the way my desk is designed. Please Help! doktaz ..... What you want is a device called a KVM SWITCH......
Then you use one MOUSE, one KEYBOARD and one monitor....... connect both the pcs to it and then just switch back and forth between them with a single keystroke ......... All you need is a 2 port KVM switch..... I have a Linksys ...works great ...

dl65 Thanks dl65 !

my hard disk maxtor
setup detected it bt when i re bot at mr DOS i cant see my hard disk
ALSO under windows i cant se it

i want to se under mr DOS or windows
what can i do
I think #1 will FIX it #2 will just flush the problem.what the h*ll does the poll mean?

is the disk formatted?


Who is Mr. DOS? Is he cute?
Also, what IS up with the poll?Quote from: Panda25 on June 29, 2007, 12:34:20 PM

Who is Mr. DOS? Is he cute?
Also, what IS up with the poll?

my hard disk maxtor
setup detected it bt when i re bot at mr DOS i cant see my hard disk
also under windows i cant se it

i want to se under mr DOS or windows
what can i do

When I turn on the computer I get the usual screen and can even go into the bios and make changes. When it turns over to the hard drive I see the windows is starting and can go to the choices of safe mood after which a screen full of text lines then screen goes black then to blue and it reboots. Any thoughts would be helpfull. By the way it does simular with a knoppix live cd except for the blue screen. twice when cutting it off for a BRIEF sec the full screen linux distro was visable the it cut off. I am baffled so are we, whats the question ?My question is why am I losing the video? I tried ANOTHER video card and another hard drive with no change. ? power supply issues maybeCheck for heat problems as well....clean out the insides with compressed air using a QTip to hold the fan blades in place when blowing them out...
And while the side PANEL is off by all means swap in a KNOWN good PSU of the same or greater wattage to see if that's the problem...
The other possible culprit could be BAD RAM.

Just an afterthought...the card could be going South...we'll cross our collective fingers and hope this is NOT the issue. Thanks for the help. I have cleaned it with canned air and do not feel that is the problem. will change PS next. or swap ram with a known good stick.
Sounds like MBR is corrupted.

Hi,

I recently purchased a set of Logitech x-530 speakers and REALIZED afterwards that my sound card only has 4 channels. So, I'm thinking about upgrading my sound card in order to have full functionality with my 5.1 system...but I'm wondering if I COULD upgrade to a 7.1 sound card that will SUPPORT my Logitech 5.1 system plus 2 additional JBL speakers that came with my computer. Is that possible? If so, do you recommend it...or should I just STICK with a 5.1 sound card and ditch the 2 extra speakers?

Thanks!

PranaMost 7.1 cards should be backwards COMPATIBLE with 5.1...
Check the manuf. website to be sure.

Hello
I am not sure if this should be at hardware or software since to be honest no idea if it is a hardware or software related. Most likely software tho.
My computer is: 1600+ XP Athlon, Sis chipset mobo, 512 ram, 2 HDD's WD, Gf4 Ti4400.
My problem:
My computer was playing Winamp and as far as I knew was pretty much idle since I had no idea what should I work/play with. It was conected over the internet since I was streaming on my Winamp. When all of the sudden a blue screen came up, and in less than a second computer went blank (HDD was still active).
I shut it down, waited a few minutes and powered it on. It loads fine the ram, bios, makes it checks, and at the time when Windows XP has to start up I get again the blue screen.
It said something like:
"Problem has occured and windows shut down to prevent damage"
Then it said something about:
Check adequate DISK space [..] Try change your video adapter [..] Disable bios memory.
And
Technical info: ***Stop 0x000007E (0xc000005, 0xF84F101D, 0xF89514D0, 0xF895110C)
***ACPI.Sys Adress F84F101D base at F84c8000, Date Stamp 41107D27.
I RESTARTED and then Windows told me if I want to start windows normaly or safemode.
I started normaly and I GOT a error message (on the normal black dos screen) that NTFS.SYS is missing or corrupted. I restarted again and started on Safe mode, then a bunch of files started to apear in lines and went up up til it reached NTFS.SYS angain and gave me the error.
After a few hours I try to open it again and I get again the blue error screen with the details I mentioned above. I restart, same blue screen.
I shut down the computer for about 5 minutes, and when I open it I got blue screen error but "another" message:
"Bios in this system is not fully ACPI configured. Turn off ACPI mode," etc. and some other numbers at Technical info.
After this I just shut it down and went to work.
I have changed the CMOS Battery (quite old and it gave me some problems) and I no longer recive blue screen error, but right now I no longer can boot from anything. I could boot from win xp first 2 times then afterwards it will either freeze, or give an error, or not even start. Afterwards I could boot from my image CD made with Norton Ghost tried 2 times to image but still no succes. Right now I can not do anything.
I changed the IDE cables everything else checks ok at startup. I recived a P2 from a friend to use it for internet and if I switch the HDD's between them it will just restart.
Bottom line is right now I just cannot load windows, or boot from any CD's. If I leave my original HDD with my O/S it will give me the NTFS error. If trying to boot from Windows CD I get different error depends which HDD I have in, one of them sounds like unexpected 16777227 at line 1768 in d:\xpsp1\base\boot\setup\arcdisp.c
I am completly out of ideas. Why as you progress and try different ways it ends up from working to freezing and directly to error.
I don't think it's software. I had a feeling when I read this, and a quick Google seems to confirm it...

From the horse's mouth...

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/316400

Quote

SYMPTOMS

When you attempt to install Windows XP, the INSTALLATION process may not complete successfully. Setup may stop at the beginning of the process or immediately after the first required restart, and then you receive an error message similar to the following:

An unexpected error has occurred. (536821760) occurred at line 1768 in D:\xpclient\base\boot\setup\arcdisp.c

CAUSE

This behavior can occur because of damaged random access memory (RAM) modules or a damaged RAM slot.

RESOLUTION

To resolve this issue, use one or more of the following methods, as necessary:

•Remove one or more of the RAM modules in your computer, leaving at least the minimum amount of RAM required for Windows XP installation. If this resolves the issue, either replace these modules with new RAM modules or reinsert them after Setup is completed.

NOTE: Verify that your computer's performance is not affected when you reinsert the old RAM modules.

-or-

•Install the RAM modules into different (unused) RAM slots in your computer.

-or-

•If you still experience problems before or after Setup, replace all of your computer's RAM modules with new RAM modules.

Error Message:
Error Message: An unexpected error has occurred. (536821760) occurred at line 1768 in D:\xpclient\base\boot\setup\arcdisp.c.
Solution:
What’s triggering this error message is a problem with our computer’s memory, specifically a damaged memory module or a damaged memory slot (the physical area in the motherboard where memory modules are inserted.)

Does it even worth it to just try plug again the other dim module and hopefully it will keep running?

Remove one or more of the RAM modules in your computer, leaving at least the minimum amount of RAM required for Windows XP installation. If this resolves the issue, either replace these modules with new RAM modules or reinsert them after Setup is completed.

NOTE: Verify that your computer's performance is not affected when you reinsert the old RAM modules.

My E-Machine with AMD Sempron and K8MC51G board went dead,dead,dead and I have been trying everything I know to either wake it up or pronounce it officially dead. I am not an expert , just a hack as the name implies but I have been learning new tricks ,a lot FROM THIS WEBSITE and had recently resurrected an AMD Athlon that had been down for a year with scrambled CMOS.
I have tried running it bare bones even down to board, cpu, monitor. I have removed and replaced battery, jumped CMOS, ( powered down of course ) even HOOKED a switch to bump the reset where it did not have one before... nothing. I substituted everything I could, power supply, memory. The only thing I could not sub. was CPU, I don't have a spare that fits.
What I would like to know is what is left I can test on the board and how can I tell if it is the board or the CPU.
When powered up the fans run, no picture, no beeps. It has an extra fan controlled by the MOTHERBOARD that would only run a second when you hit the power, now it keeps running.
It whacked out in the middle of a video game that had been in the computer for quite some time and was not ONLINE.
This one looks pretty bad, I'm keeping the shovel handy ThanksE-machines have been well known to have power supplies get blown and have motherboards go bad, especially if you have replaced a new motherboard without replacing the power supply.

What kind of PSU did you have installed beforehand? What kind of PSU do you have in there now?

Gizmo73I'd say its either the cpu or the motherboard.
Did you ever remove the heatsink from the cpu before the everything died? If you removed it without putting cpu grease on it before putting it back on, it could have overheated and fried the cpu when you were playing the game.
I forgot what PSU was in it but I'm running it in this one. It's at least 350 WATTS. It's not that.
I never messed with the heat sink at all, not yet anyway. I would be real LEERY about making sure that was right so nothing overheats.
I know it's got to be either the motherboard or CPU ( obviously ) but
how can I tell which one without any substitutes? Or do they just kill each
other when they get that bad. I want to find out what more I can do to test this stuff ( without a lot of fancy equipment ) I know a little , I want to learn more. What else can I do before the dirt nap?
For what its worth... my wife was using it one day and it went into a screen that looked like a TV with bad vertical hold. She turned it off and re-started and it came back. Some time later ( weeks ) my son was looking at a video game and said "OH OH " I looked and saw the same kind of screen. This time when I shut it down , it never did anything again.
Maybe I can make a lamp out of it..........Swap in a known working PSU of 350 Watts or greater...how old is the pc? Computer is only a couple years old, or less, I bought it off a neighbor that needed money about a year ago and it wasn't very old then.
I'm trying to make it work cause now I don't have much money to buy any new parts. Probably just whipping a dead horse.
Would it still send out beep codes if the CPU was burned up ? It doesn't beep at all.Quote from: patio on June 03, 2007, 09:44:05 AM

Swap in a known working PSU of 350 Watts or greater...

I just build my own system which I want to order it tomorrow or monday, since all these prices EXPIRE on 3 July (they are slightly discounted vs original price)! I'm constrain with my budget so I actualy did want to get my rig around 1000$

What do you think about this system? Will all this be compatible? What about the motherboard? It's the only P35 I found, and unfortunately it only has 1 x16 PCIE, the other one is x4. Also the IDE connecter is way to the bottom of the mobo, so I am almost sure I will have problem hooking up my DVD-Rom.


P4 E6600
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...mp;promoid=1055

Asus P35 mobo - read some reviews says it's a BIT unstable, don't know exactly if this is a good choice especialy that I do plan to overclock in the future once when newer games will start to be even more demanding
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...mp;promoid=1055

Corsair 2GB 800mhz 4-4-4-12 - 40$ mail in rebate as well til July 1st, thats why it's IMPORTANT to order by tomorrow if I am going to
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...mp;promoid=1055
OR
OCZ 2GB 800mhz 4-4-4-15 - 50$ mail in rebate. This is about 30$ cheaper than the corsair. But is it worth it considering it has the tRAS higher with 3 units? (Don't really know what is the difference performance WISE when gaming)
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...mp;promoid=1055
So which one would be the best RAM option between the 2?


Seagate 500Gb 7200RPM SATA II 16MB Cache
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...mp;promoid=1055

The case + 450W PSU
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=19066
OR
The PSU 500W
http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku...mp;promoid=1055
(For the record I can use the same case I use for my current spec, so it's an option)


Please advise about this system. Is everything compatible? Is it overcloakable? (I have 0 knowledge about overcloaking but I can start studying later)

Thanks FRIENDS You'll love the performance of that CPU...
If you are unsure of the MBoard don't buy it...
I've never bought or used OCZ but i have plenty of Corsair ....stick with that...
Nice HDD...consider a smaller less expensive SATA for storage as a second drive...

The case and power supply are great reference articles on HTTP protocols...

i have had the same laptop for around 3 years, Compaq Presario v200
i rarely use it , except for entertainment purposes. recently while watching a DVD, the screen blacked out....and stayed that way! the disk drive opened so i managed to get the DVD out, but my laptop will not turn off....i have unplugged it, tried the Ctrl/Alt delete.. hit power button,.....still no respose? i dunno how to turn it off, and i dont WANT to risk any damage to the battery Hold the power button down for a few seconds, that'll turn it off.thank you!! i was a LITTLE worried that if i just held the button down , it would get stuck.. i am really kinda computer illiterate. so, i'll re-start and see if that FIXED it! if not, come back soon and read again....i hope it's not my motherboard..ect!Turn it off by holding the button, WAIT a minute, then turn it back on and see how it is.
If there are still problems, let us know.

Hi everyone Jordamy here, just RECIEVED a lexmark printer finally.. Got bits and PEICES to create my computor, does anyone out there can give me information on this printer... Need one so bad as in real estate and have been waiting a long time....Have no booklet doing everything by trail and error, so anything could be usefull, what sort of CARTRIDGES as at the moment no ink and havent even put it together yet thanks all who respond....Lexmark x1185 was INTRODUCED around 2004, a set of genuine Lexmark cartridges will cost around $60 - $70 (US). Remanufactured cartridges are around $40 per set. It is a multifunction device with scanner and copier functionality.

I personally do not like Lexmark products.



For the cost of the cartridges...add a few bucks and grab a brand new printer that suits your needs...

Printers these days and actually for some time are like BIC lighters. When they stop functioning you replace them.Too right. A gift of an inkjet printer without any ink is no gift at all! I suppose as it's an MFD, the scanner portion could be useful, though.

I'm putting a new computer together and am having problems getting my new SATA HD going. I have slipstreamed W2K w/ SP4 but it won't recognize any CAPACITY over 131gig.

Do I need a "SATA controller"? I"m not sure what that is.

My bios says "LBA" enabled, but doesn't mention if it's 48-bit. Do I need to update my bios? Does this motherboard even support 48-bit?

I've run partition magic too and it doesn't see the full 320 either (only the 127gig)

WD 320G SATA
ASUS M2V-MX
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4400+Assuming your operating system is Windows XP:

Click <here&GT;.

Going to the manufacturer's WEBSITE...in this case...WESTERN Digital...you'll be able to find the information you need to install the SATA drive correctly.

Yes...you'll need an SATA controller and the above link EXPLAINS it all.

Hope you found it useful.

I wanted to install a Hard Drive from a past computer onto the one im using.But it is infected with viruses,and has another OS on it.Any suggestions?Hook it up as a SLAVE drive in a known working machine and run all your PROTECTION apps...

AVG FREE
Spybot
AdAware
AVG Anti-Spyware
Stinger
CCleaner

What OS is on this drive ? ?

You may be better off with a complete format and clean install...Try installing this other hard disk as a slave to your new pc. Once you've installed it as a slave make sure it is recognized by your bios set up. If you've done this, and your pc detects or recognizes it as a slave hard disk, then run your anti-virus to this slave hard disk. Once it's clean you may use it as good one. Better, if you don't have any valuable data on this infested virus hard disk, might as well have it reformated first using dos or your windows os and afterwhich install it as a slave drive for your data.Better YET, if the drive is still hooked up to a computer and you can boot it, it might be best to clean or reformat it before slaving it.Quote from: superman777 on June 03, 2007, 11:00:56 PM

Try installing this other hard disk as a slave to your new pc. Once you've installed it as a slave make sure it is recognized by your bios set up. If you've done this, and your pc detects or recognizes it as a slave hard disk, then run your anti-virus to this slave hard disk. Once it's clean you may use it as good one. Better, if you don't have any valuable data on this infested virus hard disk, might as well have it reformated first using dos or your windows os and afterwhich install it as a slave drive for your data.

Have done some research and all signs point to me having to upgrade with an internal PCI Card to get 2.0 USB speed. Was wondering if anybody knew if it was POSSIBLE to upgrade the 1.1 USB with an external 2.0 HUB?

Thanks for the help!

His Servant
John Lande

Psalm 37:4,5 You could buy a USB2 hub, but it would work at USB1.1 speeds, so there would be no point other than to get more USB ports at the same speed.
Why are you against buying a (cheaper, and less messy) internal USB2 PCI card?Yeah i have the same trouble every time i insert my memory stick it says this device can perfome faster or something like found high speed usb 2.0.

How do i upgrade my usb drivers to be 2.0 high speed??? You have to buy an internal USB2 PCI card.
You cannot do ANYTHING else to increase the speed, upgrading the drivers will not help.
Before you buy anything, try it on all of your USB ports, some of them may be USB2 rather than USB1.1.Thanks Calum.

I think all of them are USB1.1 but they are all onboard.
My 250Gig HD crashed the boot SECTOR is gone and i can't load any OS but i'm using it as a slave HD and its working just to store all my games and Music and Movies.

Quote from: Shynnie on June 27, 2007, 04:09:49 AM

I think all of them are USB1.1 ...

I just got "full".
But it was made in 1999, and doesn't mention supporting XP, or in fact any OS other than 95 or 98.

So it is not accurate? How about that.... I figured it would still work.

To know more about the USB upgrade please visit the following link for further assistance :

Software Patch: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/822603

Hardware solution: http://www.usbman.com/Reviews/ratoc_usb_20_5.htm

Quote from: WillyW on June 27, 2007, 09:09:32 AM

So it is not accurate? How about that.... I figured it would still work.

Well, it depends on exactly what it was intended to do, right? But, clearly, it does not tell whether a system has full support at the 1.1 level or 2.0. As Calum said, Device Manager indicates 2.0 when it says "Enhanced controller ...".

I am having trouble with my computer turn it on will not boot shuts right down. Open it up and the cpu fan which attaches with four screws only one of the four is attached, think this is the problem? The part number is Z8U702A101 what part would be compatible. Thanks for any help.



HP Pavilion a847c
Intel Pentium 4 3.2 GHZ
512 MBdicenut ...... It's quite possible that the fan is causing the problem or that 1 or more of the missing screws is shorting something out .
What is this part number (Z8U702A101) on ?

But , the best thing I can suggest would be contacting HP and asking them about .

dl65 On the fan and heat sink, it is from AVC, trying to find one that is compatible.


ThanksI would definitely want to replace the missing screws. With only one screw holding that fan onto the heatsink, the fan might be causing some vibration. I believe the fan could even rotate so that part of it is no longer HOVERING over the heatsink and thereby causing diminished cooling effectiveness.

If you can't get screws for it, just buy a new fan; they come with screws. Quote from: soybean on June 06, 2007, 09:50:49 PM

I would definitely want to replace the missing screws.

is it possible to find out what type of ram i have (ie dimm,ddr etc) with out dismantling my machine. i know how much i have. thanks Download Lavays's "Everest Home Edition" then go to Computer and SUMMARY. Then Next to SYSTEM Memory it should say. http://www.filehippo.com/download_everest_home/Thanks haha.You can also get CPU-Z. It is an overclocker's best friend. It will tell you all your memory timings and the FREQUENCY which is what you are looking for.

http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php thanks guysQuote from: dirtmaster88 on June 29, 2007, 01:55:19 PM

You can also get CPU-Z. It is an overclocker's best friend. It will tell you all your memory timings and the frequency which is what you are looking for.

http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php

I am planning to purchase an extra laptop battery. I just don’t know what to look for when it comes to the specs of those batteries. I would want to purchase a battery with a longer energy capacity when unplugged. What part of the specs should I look for?
Check this site out. It's where I've purchased batteries before. Look up your MODEL and it will tell you what is available for it.

http://kahlon.com/

Also, do a little Googling with your QUESTION. The ANSWER is there.

Alan <>< Great source Alan...i've used them in the past.

From all I have read in this forum about how things can go so wrong with RAM installs I am a bit paranoid to install the new ram I just bought for my Dell Dimension 4600. I ordered it on line from Kingston and called when I received it to make sure it was compatible though the invoice said for a Dimension 4550. Support said it was the right stuff so I am about to do it. Has anyone ever installed RAM without adverse affects? Also any tips on this process. I have done this before in my old computer and it was fine. I guess I shouldn't read this forum as much as I do.I've installed plenty of RAM without any problems, going back to the mid 1990s. I usually bought it from a local shop which had a knowledgeable guy there, one time I got some PC133 RAM for my AMD K6 and it wouldn't work, I told him, he looked at the module and said "Oh, you must need the double sided stuff" and swapped it for a module with chips on both sides. Worth paying a little bit more for that kind of help.

People often run into trouble if they don't check recommendations, ignore compatibility lists and just go for the cheapest module they can find from a non-name supplier, in my opinion.

I've got a little Shuttle, they are supposed to be very fussy about RAM, I looked at the maker's website, ordered some TwinMOS modules from a web supplier, it booted first time, it has run like a little champ for 2 years now.

You did the right thing ordering from Kingston and specifically asking if it was compatible. Now you have a path back if it isn't.





thanks, that makes me feel a bit more confident. I am going to give it a shot this afternoon when I get time. If you hear this loud scream it will be after something went wrong. Yes after reading all the horror stories on this forum I decided to go with a forum jocky's recommendation. Kingston was on his list. Now if I can just watch out for static electricity I should be ok.Remove all power sources to the machine...handle the RAM without TRYING to touch the contacts...there are plastic white levers at both ends of the RAM slots...make sure these are open all the way when inserting the RAM.

Pay attention to the ones you remove as far as the long and short contact ends and where they line up.

It takes a bit of force but not too much and as you press it in those two levers at each end should snap up and lock the RAM in place.

Stay grounded to the case ...take your time and you should be fine.

While the case is open check for dust bunnies especially on fans and heatsinks. They can be blown out with a can of compressed air...

Good Luck as i said you should do fine.Thanks. I am not taking any out I am adding two. I have two slots filled with what came with the computer (512 MB total) so I am filling the other two slots with two 512. This should bring me up to a Gig and a half if they all work in tandum like I understand they are suppose to. thanks Again for the tips.I just installed 1G of Kinston Hyper X memory in my 4550 (1.8mhz P4), up from 768, only two slots, and I noticed a definite increase in speed over whatever memory I had purchased from Dell. My problem is with the install of a 3.0mhz CPU along with it. But the memory was cake.Well the reason for this memory upgrade is that I am trying to edit video and I get a really jerky playback. Perhaps a faster processor will be my next upgrade if this doesn't work. I was unaware that you could even change the processor without changing the Mother Board and that is way beyond what I want to get into. I just as soon buy a new computer.The physical part of installing a new CPU isn't any more difficult than adding memory..you can do it pretty easily on my 4550. That being said, I don't know yet whether my problem is with the new CPU or if there are other procedures that need to accompany the new CPU install. I just switched back to the old 1.8 and everything works fine. Just make sure you have the matching pin configuration on the new CPU..sounds sort of like I know what I'm talking about eh? LOL . Well I haven't DESTROYED anything yet. Good luck.Well the good news is that my new 1GB Ram install went very smoothly and every thing works lightning fast. I feel very proud of myself. My DSL internet has never been faster. Windows open so fast they startle me. The bad news is that the playback in my VEGAS Movie Studio is still jerky which is what I SUSPECTED would happen. I am now blaming the software. The playback may be jerky but the CD and DVDs burn just right so I guess the software buffer is slow. So if I can put up the playback I can produce some pretty nice video. Thanks everyone for all your help and if I get the itch to upgrade my processor speed, "I vill be BAC". Thanks again. I know i've suggested it before but travel to majorgeeks.com and browse their video section for some great alternatives ( most free ) for editing software...you may be pleasantly surprised.

What exactly are your editing requirements ? ?Well my editing requirements are fairly simple. I have a Sony DCR 108 DV handicam and Vegas Movie Studio with DVD creator that was packaged with it. I am new to all but it all works pretty well together. I have mpeg 2 video which is what the camera produces and it also saves DVD video files to mini disc but I usually download the files via USB port to my computer. I can import mpeg and audio fine into my editing software and I edit with no problems except for the jerky playback. I can burn DVD or CD video with no problems but the jerky playback drives me crazy. I try to ignore it knowing all the end results will be fine but it is still distracting. I not only do video but Vegas lets you do the Old Ken Burns technique of using stills with video movement which I love. I incorporate both. My grandson was born with 1/2 of a heart during Katrina so my video of him is very precious to me. His visit to the zoo for the first time is my first project so I have enjoyed every minute. Perhaps I shouldn’t be so picky considering all is working fine even though the playback is weird. I still suspect the Audigy 2 audio Creative Sound Blaster. What do you think?No. The Audigy is a sound card and shouldn't affect the video playback.

Try some of the free products from the site i suggested to see if 9things improve. You said the additional RAM did not help ? ?

If so i suspect the software as you did...Well the strangest thing has happened. My Video playback no longer jerks. It is like the RAM just suddenly kicked in. But, there is alway a but, the audio volume is about half what if used to be. I can live with it but full volume is now about normal listening volume when it used to be really loud all the way up. All this media "stuff" is perplexing to say the least. I don't know how you guys keep up with all this information.

I have had this problem before and the fan on the power supply was out. Installed a new fan and all was good. Quote from: kickenchicken on June 22, 2007, 09:34:56 PM

what am i supposed to do? ask if i can borrow their PSU? They'd look at me like if i had a third eye.

Hi, I bought a new GeForce6100SM-M motherboard, AMD Athlon 64 X 2 3800+, 1024 mb DDR2 memory and installed it in my emachines pc to replace a fried board. My problem is the pci wont reconize my modem. Is there something in the bios that I need to set up? I looked around in the Bios SETTINGS &AMP; couldn't really make heads of tails of much of anything. I tried everything I knew to do & finally loaded the fail safe settings.

Here is my PNP/PCI settings:

Init Display First: (PCI Slot)
PNP OS Installed: NO ( i can't modify this)
IRQ Resources:(Press Enter)

PCI/VGA Palette Snoop: (Disabled)
Assign IRQ for VGA: (Enabled) ( i can't modify this)
Assign IRQ for USB: (Enabled)

**PCI Express realitive items**
Maximum PAYLOAD Size (4096)

I have XP installed and I am using onboard video. Im not too smart on PC's and I THANK You for any help you can give me. Do you know what resources your PC is using now?
Have you tried assigning resources manually to the modem?
Have you tried installing any drivers yet?

Tell us more information about the modem.

Gizmo73
Well I reinstalled the motherboard driver software and all is well now. 3rd time is a charm I guess. Thanks

I have a 4gb memory stick but when i try copying a 200mb+ file it give me an error saying "Cannot copy file "name" The path is too deep."Make a directory on your hard drive of the name of your choice.
Copy the file to that directory.
Now copy it to the flash drive...Thanks for the help patio. I'm at a friend's house right now. I'll test it when i get home.Quote

Make a directory on your hard drive of the name of your choice.
Copy the file to that directory.
Now copy it to the flash drive...

Ooops sorry i meant copy.

Ok Patio. I just tried it and it gives me this error. Cannot copy "file" : The parameter is incorrect.

Firstly i go to the files directory, click on the file, ctrl+c. Then i go back into my USB's drive and ctrl+v

Ok, so I have a laptop and a regular computer..
I was at my regular, and felt i had to go and work with schoolstuff, turned it off and went to my lap.
Then when I was going to turn it on again, I noticed the chassi-fan was making louder "pffff" sounds than normally. And the screen, turned the lamp green as usual, but nothing was showing.
After 1 sec there was a message " No input signal, monitor going to sleep ". and it just went yellow (lamp again).
So I perdicted it was something about the cable. But no sir. I changed that and it still doesn't work.

THEN I noticed the mouse , nor keyboard, were getting any power. (lock buttons aint working, and mouse isnt glowing ).. and this is nothing I'm familiar with..

So please help me..here are a few specs abt the cputer..

AMD athlon 5400 dualcore
Geforce 7900 GTX
Microsoft keyboard,
A-tech gaming mouse
HP 20" widescreenHi Z....

While searching for a solution to my own problem, I saw your post. Now what I know about computers and $1 will get me a large drink at McDee's!

But I did just want to tell you that almost the same thing happened to me. Turned out my fan burned up and shorted out my mother board. My hard drive was ok and was able to save 99% of info. I am not trying to scare you and I hope that is NOT what is wrong with yours. But if you just cannot get it figured out with the help of this wonderful site, you may have to have a diagnostics run and check it out. I spent days thinking I was going to figure mine out and wasted a lot of time.

GOOD Luck and I will keep my fingers crossed!
SmargeIt sounds like a failed power supply to me. Does your computer turn on at all? Have you tried plugging your computer into a known good power outlet?Thank you both for your posts.

new information has come up..

My sisters computer has also turned to this exact same error., although she SEES the black/white startingscreens but just before the xp LOGIN page the screen goes "No Signal". This is why it's really REALLY weird.. I will probably turn it in for pro's to look at it, but that's tomorrow. If figure this out today it'd be great =).

Please give more posts, and solutions.

Faithfully, ZhaiphosQuote from: kbm292 on September 11, 2007, 01:40:20 PM

It sounds like a failed power supply to me. Does your computer turn on at all? Have you tried plugging your computer into a known good power outlet?

storm,or electrical surge perhaps !!

Quote from: Spero-T on September 12, 2007, 04:09:30 AM

storm,or electrical surge perhaps !!

Perhaps!Indeed!Really!<---are these all adverbs?



HereLOL

some owed me money and GAVE me the above as payment. i have 1 question. on the rear PANEL thehe is a 10 pin connecter marked ioioi what hooks up to this?? thanksIt shouldn't be 10 pins, the IOIOI is the symbol for a 9-pin serial port. A DB-9 isn't used much anymore except for a joystick. It was commonly used for EXTERNAL floppy drives, external serial modems, tape drives, and older printers.

Gizmo73Thank you my FRIEND for your help

My PC (running XP pro) keeps looping the STARTUP. When I turn it on, it will get to the Windows logo screen, then go to continuing setup screen (I tried reinstalling windows) then stop and reboot itself over and over. I tired installing new memory and no luck. Any suggestions on what to do next?Can you post more specs about your computer. Things like amount of RAM, type of video card, processor speed. Things like that. With the info you've supplied us with I would have to LEAN towards a failing stick of RAM. Are there any beeps? However without more information about your system I'm limited on what I can help you with.when you install back,did you agree to the (EULA),if not,that coulb be one of the reason.otherwise,its a hardware issue It sounds like you may be having a hardware failure – especially since you formatted and still get errors. You should try another hard drive and hard drive controller if possible to rule out any issues in that area. Also, have you installed anything else recently? Something as seemingly-benign as a program or SOUND card can cause strange BEHAVIOR such as this.You say it "go to continuing setup screen". So I assume that Windows never finished installing but got stuck at some point? When it exactly does it reboot?
Did the computer also reboot before you tried to reinstall XP? If so when?

And post more info on your system like the previous posters suggest. Have you added or removed any hardware LATELY? (Besides the new RAM)

Hi! It's me again haha. Well, if I were to get a EVGA 256-A8-N542-T2 GeForce 7600GS 256MB 128-bit GDDR2 AGP 4X/8X Video Card, would I need to upgrade my OEM Dell PSU? It's 250W I read the review on this card and some people said they needed to upgrade to a 600w PSU and others said they upgraded to a 350w PSU. Does anyone know which PSU would be compatible with my compatible with my computer? I have a Dell Dimension 4600. I heard that Dell has been known to use proprietary parts. Also with this upgrade of video card and or power supply, would I need to upgrade my Motherboard or CPU? Or even the case? Because some of the PSU's havea fan on top and my Dell doesn't have an opening on the top for a fan. I'm RUNNING 512MB Ram, 3 GHz, Intel Pentium 4 Processor, Windows XP. Thanks!As for the 7600 GS, this is what EVGA's webpage says:

Requirements
Minimum of a 350 Watt power supply.
(Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 18 Amp Amps.)
An available 4-pin Molex hard drive power dongle


Every geforce 6 series and up to my knowledge requires at least a 300-350 watt power supply. The older dell computers don't allow an aftermarket power supply as they are wired different (propriatary). You should take a look at the wire/pin colors on your power supply and compare them to the power supply you want to purchase. From the information I gathered, this is the diagram of the wiring for your current power supply:
http://support.dell.com/support/edocs/systems/dim4600/en/4600i/sm/techov.htm#1084976

This matches up with the colors of the standard ATX power supply:
http://www.helpwithpcs.com/courses/power-supply-basics-inc-pinouts.htm

According to this information, I would think it would be safe to install a new power supply if that is what you are looking to do. Another option may be the geforce fx series cards.

On a side note... have you considered upgrading your ram at all? It is a quick and cheap way to give your computer a huge boost in speed. The manual for your motherboard that I liked before for the power supply says what type of ram and how much you can have.Ohh, I see thanks.

If I did upgrade my RAM, how much do you think I would need. Up to 1 GB total?1 GB would work well for Windows XP. Adding another 512 mb stick would make a WORLD of a difference. Make sure you buy the right kind to match what you have in there right now. It will either be PC2700 (333-MHz) or PC3200 (400-MHz). My guess is that the speed of your ram right now is PC3200.

Kingston is a fairly well known brand. It is $29.99 after a $10 rebate.

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1430963&Sku=K24-4909When you say matching, it could be any brand name right? Just the same speed? Because I read up on this and some people BOUGHT a brand new 1 GB stick of memory and completely replaced and took out their old ones.

As for the power supply.. I'm looking some up on newegg, and would my computer be compatible with ATX type PSU's or ATX12V ones. I am kind of a picky person, but I like the PSU's with the LED's lol.

Also, I really am sorry about asking all of these questions, because I'm new to upgrading computers, but is it entirely possible to buy a new computer case and just transfer all of the Dell Dimension 4600 components to the new computer shell?Quote

When you say matching, it could be any brand name right? Just the same speed? Because I read up on this and some people bought a brand new 1 GB stick of memory and completely replaced and took out their old ones.

As for the power supply.. I'm looking some up on newegg, and would my computer be compatible with ATX type PSU's or ATX12V ones. I am kind of a picky person, but I like the PSU's with the LED's lol.

Also, I really am sorry about asking all of these questions, because I'm new to upgrading computers, but is it entirely possible to buy a new computer case and just transfer all of the Dell Dimension 4600 components to the new computer shell?

http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=58&name=Power-Supplies

On the left hand side under type, there are different types of PSU's. ATX, ATX12V etc.

Hi there!
I loaded XP sp2 on my old Dell, all ok
Later my PC got stuck in a loop, auto running the same program and logging me off
Only option I could THINK of was to reinstall XP
I had a bit of trouble because i'm not very experienced
System is up and running ok BUT
Q1) in my computer I have Local disc 'D' 76.3 GB total AND
Local disk 'C' 7.81 Mb total. Why? I only want disc 'C'
Q2) as drive is 80GB is there not 2GB missing?
tried messing about with an old ME floppy and FDISK but not experienced enough
Thankyoul for any help
Dell Dimension 4100 866/256
Sounds like you have somehow partitioned your hard drive into two partitions.

I'd go for another format c: and when you select the partitiion to install Windows on, once you get that far, you can change the partitions into one, rather than 2.Dell may have partitioned your drive into two drives...the smaller partitioned drive is PROBABLY being used as the recovery image in case you need to recover your system back to its factory settings after a crash.

So...before you go and do what GX44 is recommending...I'd VERIFY that with Dell.When you go to setup Windows XP, there will probably be 2 or 3 partitions that it reconizes. The first will be the small C:, 2nd D:, and 3rd possibly unpartitioned SPACE. You want to highlight the two current partitions and delete them so the only option listed is unpartitioned space. If you have an 80 GB hard drive, the drive will be seen as 70 some gigs. Every drive is like this as the very first sectors of the drive contain information such as boot loader and contains information about the drive. This cannot be changed.

Of course if you delete the partitions like I said and setup a new windows install on just the 1 partition, you will loose all of your data and information currently on your system. Make sure you have your dell device drivers disk before you start otherwise finding drivers for your computer might be a hassle.

Once you do the above steps, you will have only a c: drive containing windows xp and probably around 70 gb of free space left.Thanks for the help
I'm going to do what Dirtmaster saidThanks dirtmaster, worked perfectly Glad to hear that everything worked out

I use a Zyxel prestige 600 wired ROUTER with a Broadband connection.
Can someone tell me if this will work with the Wii Lan adapter? I hear I need an ETHERNET cable to connect them but I have no idea what that is. All I have that EVEN resembles one is a red cable going to a port on the back of the router: LAN10/100M.

thanks


http://www.usm.maine.edu/resnet/images/standardcable.jpg THERES your cable You will need to run a ethernet (internet) cable from an EMPTY slot on the back of your router to your Wii.

Hi everyone,

Sorry if something similar has been posted before, I did search but didn't find sth that EXACTLY applied to me.

Anyway, I'd be eternally grateful if sb could help!

Yesterday I had a day off, and I basically spent the whole day on the computer, downloading stuff, on the net, using Dreamweaver, listening to music. I guess in total my computer probably had 13 hours of usage. Anyway, after a quick break for dinner I came back and as my girlfriend was working thought I'd stick on the headphones and playGrand Theft Auto III while she was working. Obviously this sort of game is pretty computer-intensive, especially on the graphics card, which although I only bought it a few months back is pretty old school, an NVIDIA FX5500 AGP card.

When I first started the game it immediately brought up an error message in a non-windows, non-DOS style, which I assumed was within the game engine as it didn't look like anything I'd seen before, and rebooted the computer, just like that. Stupidly (yes, very stupidly) thinking nothing was amiss, I allowed the computer to reboot and restarted the game, whereupon it worked fine for about 20 minutes. Then the bloody thing just switched itself off! Thinking "fair enough, I imagine the poor thing's just really overheated and shut itself off" I thought nothing of it, and given that I had a 5 o'clock start today went to bed.

So I came home today and attempted to switch the computer on. Nothing. I flicked the on/off switch at the back, left it a few seconds, flicked it back to "on" and tried again. Still nothing. I did the same, this time removing and re-inserting the power cable. Nope, nothing. So I unplugged everything, unscrewed the old girl and had a look inside. As far as I could tell everything was in order - no smell of death, no capacitors blown, it would seem. So I plugged in the cable and tried again, but all I got was a clicking sound and a tiny movement from the CPU fan. On a whim, I took out the graphics card and the modem, hoping that might have some effect (see why I named myself novice? ). Still the same problem. So I unscrewed the power supply unit to see if I could see anything inside. Obviously I didn't open it up, that would be dangerous as *censored*, but from what I could tell nothing seemed amiss, not that I could see a whole lot. Same result again when I re-connected everything.

Any SUGGESTIONS? Would the power supply be a likely 'first thing to go' in this situation (ie what I suspect is a majorly overburdened or overheated computer)? Are there any ways of checking? Are there any other possibilities?

If it helps, I've got a P4 3MHz PC with 1.5GB RAM, a pretty cruddy ASRock motherboard and a few other cards like a modem and a WLAN card.

Thanks a lot for your help, hope I don't sound like too much of a moron!

PhilIt could be the power supply. is it a good brand? What is the wattage?