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It can't get worse than it is....take your time and don't panic.
Sometimes it''s just something simple.
Remember to have all power sources removed when working inside the case...ok, I will GIVE it another trytry cleaning up your RAM using a eraser,not all of the RAM,just the part that u insert to the motherboard,the shinny part of the RAM..Ok step by step guide coming up !!!


The ram reseat.

1. Disconnect all peripheral devices, such as the monitor, from the computer.

2.Ground yourself to the computer with professional grounding equipment like an anti-static wristband or hold a metal part of the chassis.

3.Ok now unclick the clips on each side of the ram slots use slight force to RELEASE them from the slots but always make SURE your holding the ram like this.



4.check for dust , if any use a can of compressed air to release the dust from the slots.

5. hold the ram with your finger tips and gentley insert back in at the same time with your finger tips at the end push both sides down at the same time so the ram clips into place.

and your done there .




tried that,

no use took it to the mechanic and he said motherboard is gone and charging $150, almost what computer costs .

I know it is stupid question, but if I take the ram card out and put it in another computer, would be I able to retrieve my files, or atleast add the memory of my other computer No SORRY, man altho its called Memeroy its not actually you data

RAM (random access memory) is the place in a computer where the operating system, application programs, and data in current use are kept so that they can be quickly reached by the computer's processor.

RAM can be compared to a person's short-term memory and the hard disk to the long-term memory. The short-term memory focuses on WORK at hand, but can only keep so many facts in view at one time. If short-term memory fills up, your brain sometimes is able to refresh it from facts stored in long-term memory. A computer also works this way. If RAM fills up, the processor needs to continually go to the hard disk to overlay old data in RAM with new, slowing down the computer's operation.

You want to remove the hard driveQuote from: Spero-T on September 07, 2007, 02:20:16 AM

No sorry, man altho its called Memeroy its not actually you data

RAM (random access memory) is the place in a computer where the operating system, application programs, and data in current use are kept so that they can be quickly reached by the computer's processor.

RAM can be compared to a person's short-term memory and the hard disk to the long-term memory. The short-term memory focuses on work at hand, but can only keep so many facts in view at one time. If short-term memory fills up, your brain sometimes is able to refresh it from facts stored in long-term memory. A computer also works this way. If RAM fills up, the processor needs to continually go to the hard disk to overlay old data in RAM with new, slowing down the computer's operation.

You want to remove the hard drive

I have a Dell Laptop (might be the problem =P) but when i push any key on the KEYBOARD, the OUTPUT on the monitor does not correspond with the key i pushed. for example the tab key outputs a == instead. Could I get some help?

For the record, i am not using the laptop to type this QUESTION up
alexhsieh ...... Could you please explain what you were doing just PRIOR to this issue starting ?

dl65 randomly surfing the web =P clean sites. no worries bro.

Ok everyone, sorry, this is my first build. So one night im playing Vanguard SAGA of Heroes and I go to sleep, wake up the next morning and try to boot my PC. The lights come on and the fans come on for about 1 or 2 seconds then the computer would shut off. I figured it was my ram, so I got Corsair to send me a replacement pair. I replaced my ram and the PC worked that night. The next morning I woke up and tried to start the pc up and the lights and fans came on for a split second then shut off. Whenever I move the little red switch on the back of the PSU from 115v to 230v the computer will stay on but the monitor will say No Signal =\. Any help would be greatly appreciated, here are the specs on my pc:

Motherboard - GA-M59SLI-S5
RAM - CM2X512A-6400 (x2)
CPU - AMD Dual Core 3800+
Video Card - EVGA 7600 GT
PSU - Turbolink LC-A420ATXWhenever I move the little red switch on the back of the PSU from 115v to 230v < "what game are you playing where you think it requires you to do that" OH Heaven !

** I would sit tight and wait for one of our veteran members to ask you the pertinent questions and see if your system can be restored*.

Might have to wait till morning or if a bright puter tech reads this tonight... hang in there........... Flicking that switch to the wrong setting is a good way to blow your psu. Have you tried using just one stick of ram and trying it in both slots. Then try the other stick again trying it in both slots.

Does this problem occur each time you shut down your Pc having just installed the ram.

Have you checked to see if this ram is compatible with your motherboard.RAM is compatible yes. And I didn't think that I had to move the red switch on the back of the PSU to play games, I was just desperate to get it to work so i flicked it and it stayed on but monitor would not function so I put it back to the original setting. I have tried switching the sticks and the same thing still happens. This is the first time I have put a new set of RAM in, the original set worked for about 3-4 months then the problem occured. i have the SAME problem. i buildt a computer,my first and it came on the first time, monitor and all, next time all it did was flicker. so i flipped the switch on my PSU and it worked!...but my monitor did not...is there something we are missing? just wanted to let you know your not alone, and i have een all around and can find no info on this.

Yea, same here, no info seems to be out there on this =\. It's bugging the crap out of me because I was just getting into CAL for CSS and was going to be joining a CPL team this summer but so far its looking like i'm not going to be able to do that ;(Ok the next things to look at would be the psu and the cpu. Make sure your cpu heatsink is properly seated and that the fan is spinning. If you can get it to boot up check the cpu temp to see if its getting to hot.

The next thing would be to swap out the psu for another, or get a computer shop to try one in there for you. That little red switch btw controls voltage for the country region you are in. Not a good idear to switch this untill you know for sure. Places like USA use the 115v lower one.worth a try *

Also; did you notice the first couple times did the fan spin on the 7600 GT ??

Have you tried re-fitting the card in & out of the pci-e slot ?220...Oh Boy.ok i have the solution, after hours of research and going down and talking in person to geeksquad, they came to the same conclusion my research proved. and as stated above they said it was the PSU. exchange your psu where you bought it and bring your COMP with you if you bought it at a retail store and have them check it in the store BEFORE YOU LEAVE. if that does not fix it then it is your video cardThanks man, ill sure try it =)Welp, I got the new power supply and the problem is still occuring =(.. It's not my video card because im RUNNING it in my brothers computer now since mine has been down Can anyone shed some light on this probelm for me?Remove the MBoard from the case.
Place it on a rubber mat or a piece of cardboard.
Hook up the following :

PSU.
One stick of RAM.
Mouse and keyboard.
Vid card (if applicable)
Monitor.

Power up and tell us what happens...

Hello. I run a Windows XP Gateway desktop. Ever since suddenly disconnecting my ipod from a USB port, my computer fails to recognize my optical mouse. The pointer is still visible but stuck in one place and the little red light on the bottom of the mouse still shines so the power is there. I have rebooted the computer many, many times, DELETED the USB PORTS but still no luck. It doesn't even move at start-up. I don't think it's a problem with the mouse itself since I plugged in an older one (non-optical) to check, and it did not work. Nor will my Wacom tablet be recognized and it is installed. Not to mention its frustrating NAVIGATING windows with keyboard shortcuts. I'm also not sure about un-installing and re-installing the USB ports or Mouse drivers because I don't have disks since it came with the computer.

I'm not the most computer savvy person at all, so if anyone has some simple, understandable help.. that'd be great, thanks.Do you have a PS2 port on the back of this MACHINE ? ?



If so they sell USB to PS2 dongle converters for a few bucks at any computer store.

Explain what you meant when you say you uninstalled the USB ports.

Normally this should be done thru Control Panel/System/Hardware/Device Manager...right clik ALL instances of USB roots and hubs and select "REMOVE"...ignore the warning and re-boot.Yep, I tried a PS2 port for my mouse and it worked. Just no response at all from the USB ports. Windows does not even respond to a device when I plug it in.

I didn't really uninstall the USB ports, more like deleted them so Windows would re-install when I rebooted, but that didn't work either.

I am RUNNING Windows Vista Home Premium 32 bit. Without warning or apparent reason, my screen has turned a BRIGHT white, it is very sharp and almost impossible to distinguish between light COLOURS. I have TRIED to auto adjust my monitor settings, and checked for the latest graphics drivers, but they are all up to date. any help would be greatly appreciated.

Windows Vista Home Premium 32 bit Edition
Dell Dimension E520
1GB Ram
Intel Viiv CORE 2 Duo 1.86Ghz
ATI Radeon X1300 Pro 256Mb
Have you tried a different monitor?

Is this machine new and under warranty?

When TRYING to print an invoice for a customer, the tail end of the page, where it SHOWS the customer total AMOUNT due is getting cut off by about 1/8th of an ince, thus not fully showing the amount. How can I fix this? I have looked all over the settings for the printer and the software I am using and I do not believe it is an issue with my APPLICATION. I suspect the answer lies in the drivers of the printer of maybe a physical limitation of the printer itself. Please help and advise. Thank you!


-PeterWas the part that was cut off on the very end of the page? Most printers have margin limitations, so they cannot print on the very edges.It was about 1/8th of an inch from the edge... We have a Dell AIO 924 Printer, and the bottom part of a page has to be at least 1/2 in. from the bottom of the page to print. So that may be the problem.

Hi, i recently installed a new MOTHERBOARD with a new processor, and a watercooling system to upgrade my pc. I got the mother board and realised i needed SATA instead of ide, so i got these ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822998008 ) converters. Everything works in the sense that the pc powers on, but the only thing on the moniter is INFO about the bios. It gives me a list of functions at the bottom, : BIOS Setup/Qflash <F9>: ExpressRecovery2 <F12>:Boot Menu <End>:Qflash, i can only enter bios setup/Qflash and Qflash, but if i dont enter anything after about 30 seconds it says detecting ide drives but i dont have any. I was wondering if its a SMALL problem or a big problem but any help would be greatly appreciated. On the website it says to set all the drives to master, which i have done, and i took out the pins too. I hate to admit that I'm completely lost, but I am. =-C
Thanks,
D3m0sth3n3s According to the reviews at newegg it comes with no instructions...so much for reading the manual.

You will still however need to install SATA drivers for those drives to be recognised...how do i install the sata drivers?

I run a Gateway desktop. A few days ago I unplugged my ipod SUDDENLY, and right after that, all my USB devices stopped working. I know there is no proble whatsoever with my ipod, tablet, mouse, etc because I've all tried them on different computers and the power works. Right now I use a non-optical mouse on a P2 (wrong name?) outlet, one of the green ones. Windows does not even detect new hardware. There is no bubble or anything that pops up when I plug in a device. It has BECOME incredibly frustrating.

I've been searching online non-stop trying to find a solution and none have worked so far. I deleted the USB root hubs and ports so the computer would reinstall them, tried a few drivers, even fiddled with the BIOS PNP settings and no cigar. Please help. I'm really not computer savvy so some simple enough steps would help alot.Can you give us a little more information about your system...SPECIFICALLY, Windows operating system?I READ a lot about--->KB918005(v4) <---update for XP and the USB
related problems.

Uninstall the optional update KB918005(v4) if recently installed.

I am assuming you have Windows XP.Yes, I have Windows XP and I don't think I've installed the KB918005(v4) ..So, what all updates do you need from Microsoft?

Have you used the Automatic-updates from microsoft?

In the,Control Panel,Double click on Automatic Updates,
and see how it is set.

The updates not only help with security but, they also
help with hardware problems....etc..

The PROCESSOR is running very hot, have you cleaned out the fins under the actual CPU fan?
have you overclocked the processor?
a better cooler fan may be required!
check with the company who sold the COMPUTER to you ask for a better fan they may give you it at cost price or less if there is a warrenty
or get a list of fans he has in stock then check on the internet for best PERFORMANCE
if you fit it yourself remember a thin film of thermal paste between the fin block and the CPU,thanks! I will BRING it into a shop and get a better cooling system. BTW, is it possible my processor has been damaged?

i need help please,
i had to recover my son's pc (sony rx550) which has a 60 gigabyte HARD drive using the factory sony recovery disk. after recovery i notice that c drive where all his programs and data are only has 15 gigs of space and d drive where there is nothing has 40 gigs of free space.i need to move most of the space from d drive to c drive.can you help?As you may know, there are several paid-for partitioning utilities such as Partition Magic and Partition Commander.
In windows there is Disk Management, but for greater capability, I prefer the following :

The free little jewel called GParted--LiveCD
LiveCD, meaning that you build a bootable CD and do your partitioning independent of your OSes.

This will D/L as an ISO file, a raw image file. Leave it on the desktop.
Now you will need an ISO burning UTILITY. Many folks will use Nero (or similar) but there is a free and easier solution called BurnCDCC .
Remember that BurnCDCC can only be used from inside the Windows environment.

D/L it and put it in a place where you can FIND it quickly. Again, for starters, put it on the desktop. You can tuck it away somewhere later.

Once you have both elements ready, just open BurnCDCC and tell it where the GParted ISO file is.
Then tell it to burn and verify.

Now, with your new bootable CD and your subject machine set to boot 1st from the OPTICAL drive, boot to GParted and partition your drive.

Partitioning utilities are very powerful, so have a well thought out game plan before you start.
Keep your eyes wide open when you do this and of course have any valuable data backed up.

http://gparted.sourceforge.net/livecd.php
http://www.snapfiles.com/get/burncdcc.html

You will find BurnCDCC to very useful for other ISO-burning duties, such as burning new Linux distros from the Windows environment.

Edit:
Had I known about GParted, I would not have purchased Partition Magic and Partition Commander.
Hmmm...I could always sell them on eBay

Yet another way to acquire a partitioning utility is to discover your Hard Drive's manufacturer (use Everest Free or PC Wizard) then go to that site and D/L your drive mfr's Disk Utilities.

thank you jflan,
i will try your sugestions and see if i can do it.i will let you know how it works out. again thank you for helping me
sizemann

i am having problems with a dell optiplex gx60, 2.8ghz P4
i've just loaded xp with sp2, and avg as well as installing all the drivers from dell website using the tag number for the pc everything went on fine bar the NETWORK driver so when i plug in the ethernet there is a little yellow tryangle in thte system tray saying little or no connection,

i contacted dell they just gave me a link to the dell site where the driver was so i reinstalled it again no luck there though still the same problem.
i bought a D-link network card 530tx the drivers were already installed when i loaded the OS onto the machine.

I reinstalled the drivers anyway after trying to connect but still the same problem please help i am puzzled by this could it be the MOTHERBOARD?
many thanks
all the best
SimshiAre you on a network or are you PLUGGED DIRECTLY into your modem? Have you tried calling up your ISP and see what's goin on?

EDIT: Oh, and did you have another network card before this one? If so try uninstalling the drivers for it.there was no other card drivers as i did a clean install of xp, i am not on a network,
i have another pc which i take the ethernet cable out of and plug it back into the dell so i know that the inteernet connection is ok itself, the i have tried the network card in both computers and it works fine, it's just the Dell that is giving me problems,
many thaks for your help though if you could offer and other suggestions that would be great
many thanks
SimshiQuote

i bought a D-link network card 530tx the drivers were already installed when i loaded the OS onto the machine.

I have a new HP Pavilion dv9339us and I am concerned about how hot PART of it gets at times. In particular, the left 1/3 or so (from mouse pad to left edge) gets hot to the TOUCH almost to the point of being uncomfortable at times. I do hear the fan kick on sometimes.

I've had it about six weeks and have noticed this from the beginning. It has a Core 2 Duo T5500 (1.66 GHz/667 FSB) and had DUAL hard drives- a 120 GB and an 80 GB, both 5400 rpm.

Could the dual drives be part of the cause for the heat? Do the Core 2 Duo processors tend to generate heat? I will admit that I have the system SET on 'High Performance' with Minimum Processor Speed set at 5% and Maximum at 100%.

I always use it on a hard surface (desk/table) and make sure there is nothing obscuring the ventilation around it. I am a little sensitive to this issue because I lost my otherwise reliable Toshiba laptop to heat build-up. I want to do whatever I reasonably can to ensure the longevity of this new one.

Any suggestions or input would be appreciated!jasonmreece ........ Yes , you should be concerned about excessive heat.
Before you start having sleepless nights, I would make sure you have some temperature monitoring software installed ........ then record the readings.....and then contact HP ...... and let them tell you if what you are seeing is NORMAL or not, after all it's still under warantee ......so BEST get it sorted out now .

dl65 If I where you, i would go back to the shop where i bought it and tell them about the problem.
In sweden where i work as a service tech. at a computerstore, we have a two week DOA time against HP (DOA = dead on arrival), but talk to them about a solution.

If you came to me, i would sent it away to the HP repairshop.

Hope that will satisfy you.

_BWelcome Aboard Brother B !Oh thanks Patio.

jasonmreece: Will you please update us on your problem, tell us your solution so others can learn from you.

_B

I tried it your way, DeltaSlaya, and the noise was still there. So I guess it's the PSU. Luckily, the warranty is still in effect.

Thanks for all your help!

I'm wanting to upgrade from my old CRT monitor to a newer 17" LCD. I'm not SURE that my current onboard video will support a monitor with 1280x1024 resolution. Is there anyway to determine before I buy the monitor if my current video will support the newer monitor or do I need to buy a newer video card?

My system is only 3yrs old. Using Pentium 4, Socket 478 with onboard SIS651 chipset.
Thanks for your help.
WislnCan you set your resolution to 1280x1024 with your current monitor? Is your current monitor 17 inch?My current monitor is 15" and the best resolution I can set is 1024x 768 in Windows XP.you should be able to but you MIGHT have to update your video drivers.Are u asking if that CHIP will run XP at 1280x1024?

Of course it will. Any GPU will support RUNNING an OS at whatever resolution.

BTW, maybe u should get a 19". A 15" is actually only 14". So going from 14" to 19" should be very nice.Quote from: wislndixie on June 22, 2007, 08:55:19 AM

My current monitor is 15" and the best resolution I can set is 1024x 768 in Windows XP.

2 days ago i bought an old toshiba t2000sx laptop from a garage sale for 2$. The BATTERY was dead and it came with no ac adaptor. using a powerpack i wired it up so the powerpack put 14 volts into the battery terminals with the battery still in them (the laptop refuses to use battery power if the battery isn't in it)
it worked for about an hour and i went through its dos and windows 3.1. i turned it off by pressing the power key, then turned it on again. it went fine, except for a resume failure error

WARNING: RESUME FAILURE
PRESS ANY KEY TO CONTINUE

Then booted up normally
when i turned it off after that this is what happened
it had the same error and did its memory checks
and then froze
then, after much humming from the machine

PLEASE INSERT SYSTEM DISK
PRESS ANY KEY TO CONTINUE

and that is all that it will do now
i can't get into the bios of the machine, and i have no idea which disk i should use. will a dos boot disk work? the machine was RUNNING dos 3 and windows 3.1
can anyone tell me where to download the contents of this disk so i can make a boot disk? any advice on what to do?This laptop probably has about 8MB Ram and a 40MB hard drive...tops.

What on earth do you plan on doing with such a machine? I mean you only paid $2 for it, but...why???

Here's a link for boot disks:

http://oldfiles.org.uk/powerload/bootdisk.htm

Advice: Don't waste your time...you have a $2 doorstop.i have an old interface which i plan to use to control my model railroad with - i need an old computer with qbasic. this laptop is perfect for the job

hmmmmm these are all boot disks, i tried a couple of promiseing looking ones but they didn't go... wat does it mean wen it says SYSTEM disk? is that different to a boot disk?Here's a link to buy:

http://cgi.ebay.com/WINDOWS-3-1-OPERATING-SYSTEM-3-5-FLOPPY-COMPLETE-IN-BOX_W0QQitemZ110136735655QQihZ001QQcategoryZ11229QQcmdZViewItemthat doesn't LOOK LIKE it either... i really am at a loss for thisThe DIFFERENCE between a boot disk and a system disk is that a system disk, specifically Windows 3.x, is the disk(s) containing the OS for your computer.

What exactly are you looking for, because I have sent you links to both, boot disks and Operating System.im not entirely sure
i think the hardrive in the computer has corrupted or frozen or something
i have been to a website that gives u the disk images for a long list of boot disks and stuff but the promising looking ones didn't work either...
grrrrrrrr
i'll make a bid on those disks

Ok, this problem has been frustrating me for a while now.

Problem:
My machine cuts off while doing anything more intensive (gaming), and even sometimes when I am just browsing the web or listening to music. There is no blue screen, no error...nothing...it just cuts off. Strangely the numlock light on my keyboard stays on...and it normally does not when I power the machine down. And recently when I try to power the machine back up after it cuts out, sometimes I get nothing displaying on my monitor and seemingly nothing in the keyboard and mouse.

Attempted diagnostic steps:
Thinking I had EITHER an overheating or a RAM issue, I set forth to PINPOINT it. I have 2x 512M sticks of DDR400...so I removed one, booted, and tried it out...it cut off. I then swapped the sticks and booted again...cut out once more. I also tried any number of combinations of RAM sticks in the VARIOUS slots, just to be sure...still no luck. So, I figured it is more than likely the processor overheating...much more likely than both sticks of RAM having the same issue. But replacing the stock AMD heatsink with a Thermaltake Golden Orb II did not solve the problem.
Soooo, I am a bit stymied. It would appear that the problem is not in the areas I originally thought...at least that's what it SEEMS. So I wanted to see if others had ideas on what to try next.
Could this be a Mobo issue?
How about a Power Supply problem?
Obviously, I am out of ideas on how to diagnose this problem.

Specs:
AMD Athlon 64 3200 (with a new thermaltake golden orb II heatsink on it)
DFI Lanparty UT nf3 259Gb Mobo
1GB (2 512 sticks) of Mushkin DDR400 RAM
GeForce 6800 graphics card
Raid 0 HDD, etc...

Thanks a ton for any ideas.Well, then i would look at either the power supply, graphics card, or your motherboard, most likely your graphics card since your machine at least boots up.

Try your graphics card in another system, if you can. If it cuts out again, then it's your graphics card. If it runs fine, then it's down to your power supply or motherboard. Try another power supply in your system (with the graphics card in it), and if it still cuts out, then it's your motherboard most likely. Just as a another test before you pin the problem on your motherboard, reinstall windows again and if it cuts out once again, it's your motherboard.

If i'm missing any other sources of the problem feel free to ADD suspect PSU.I feel your pain fansy, my desktop back home has the same problem. But I ran memtest and it showed one of my modules as bad. I'm still going to check my PSU and possibly swap my video card. Let me know how yours turns out and if you tried anything other than what's already been mentioned so I can keep trying stuff on mine in case all this doesn't work. Thanks for the input. I will try those things tonight...and we'll see...

This is a bit of a crazy situ. I came home from work yesterday and my computer was off. First thought was that my power supply had gone but when I opened the case I found there is a lit green light on the motherboard so I figure there has to be at least some kind of power GETTING thru the p.s. After a bit more looking around in there I discovered that there are three sets of cables (2wires each) coming from what appears to be the power button area. They are each labelled on a female black 2 hole connector, POWER SW(green and white cable), HDD LED(red and white cables) and POWER LED(green and white cables). Some sense tells me these should be plugged into the motherboard otherwise the power button is useless. Am I correct in this thinking or way off. So I was looking around on the motherboard for where they go and I found a SET of 10 pins together(actually pin 10 is not there) in one corner of the motherboard. Later found a print on the motherboard with what seemed or I at least hoped was the key for where these pins go it reads: HD LED +1-3, PWR LED +2-4, RESET 5-7+, PWR ON +6-8. Tried these configurations and still no JUICE to my poor dear p.c. So frustrated. Out of clues and haven't yet found ANYTHING online to guide me. Hoping one of u have the same pc and can open her up and tell me where these blasted cables go.

Oh in case you do have an Emachine, don't waste your $2.99 per minute on there tech support. Looks like I flushed down about $30 into the toilet with them.

Thnks in Advance,
Karen Hi Karen and welcome to puterhope.com !!

You are correct ! Nice observation on your problem solving...those wires do indeed need to be connected to that motherboard right in the area with the 10 pins. The tricky part is making sure that you get the neg/positive wires on the right little tiny post*

do you know which motherboard you have in that case?

** take NOTE!!! ** Do not go inside the case poking around "unless" that power cord is unplugged & make sure you ground yourself real good... grab the case with both hands for a few seconds and don't be on any carpet!

Little background would be good I guess. Used to be in desktop support before I had kids, 9 yrs experience to be exact, Kicking self for not getting A+ Cert, think it would have come in handy right now. Anywho I have tried those cables on those pins in many various configs but still nothin. I've done a little more research online and looks like motherboards DYING is a popular theme, We emachine buyers get what we pay for I guess. Sadly I'm in no position to go buy a new pc right now tho.

For what I can see I beleive the motherboard is an E210882, does that sound right?

What do you think about the theory that the motherboard has gone to pc heaven? Should I consider replacing the motherboard. Everything else so far had been no problemo on this pc and would hate to have to ditch the whole thing if I can get a new board for under $100. How difficult would it be to replace. Don't have experience delving that far into hardware replacements.

Thanks for so far,
KarenHi Karen.

It would be a really good help if you could get a dig.camera and use the macro function and take a pic of the pins, without the wires connected, and a pic of your wires.

Maybe then we could help you place them right.

Good luck.

_Ba pic of the mobo in question "would be nice " but;

The first thing I would try is getting a pic of the mobo and and letting us have a looksie at the pins........
Could you get a different ( power supply ) from another working computer ? Making a little note of your connections before trying out. Your power supply could still be dead or dying with the lit light on the mobo*
Trying a working power supply with the pins properly placed might save you from wasting time/money on another mobo.
Changing a mobo is not too difficult if your careful and organized a bit. It is not hard, just need to do it right. I would highly recommend spending the $$ on a power supply upgrade for your emachine ANYWAY. It is well known that most pc's come with barley adequate psu's. Especially Emachines! "I changed mine- " . You can save much on this purchase by buying it online versus retail at any store. Go in staplzs or Best BY, look how much they are charging then try a place online like amazon or newegg. A 350 watt or 400 "maximum" watt- would be perfect for your emachine.

lastly* Emachines rock !!! the newer models since gateway purchased them have much better hardware inside (except the psu ;-( A good psu and keeping it clean inside and they last quite awhile !

I have a Motorola SBV5220 Modem that enables high speed INTERNET and digital telephone service with Cox Communications. I have a work notebook computer that now has software (VPN Broadband) that allows me to connect to my work Intranet.
However, it appears that I have to reboot the Modem each and every time to switch from my home PC to my work notebook (vice-versa) so that I can establish a new IP address.
I tried using IPCONFIG /RELEASE (it worked) but I keep receiving an error message when I try using IPCONFIG /RENEW at the DOS command PROMPT. The error message is: "An error occurred while renewing interface local area CONNECTION: access is denied."
Rebooting the Modem each time isn't the end of the world (I use a toothpick to engage the reset button), but it takes my digital phone service offline for about 2 minutes or longer each time.
Cox Communications says that I have to install a Router to avoid having to reboot the modem each time.
Is there anything else to try so that I will not have to install a router? I have never used a router, but if I have to, will it significantly slowdown my Internet speed or cause other issues?
Thanks!A router is your best solution, and will make little or no DIFFERENCE in internet speed.

I'am RUNNING xp SP2 . Just replace my video card (with ati radeon x1300/x1550 SERIES) now when my monitor is IDLE it goes into self test mode.Is this a problem?
Does it still WORK OK?
All I see is that your monitor tests itself when it "becomes idle" - what do you mean by this?
Do you mean when it turns off due to the power saving options?

I'm running Windows XP and Internet Explorer BROWSER. My question is:

First things first: I built this computer myself, and I'm certainly not a pro, so it might be my fault but...

I have an ABIT motherboard with ABIT EQ (a fan, temp, and watt monitoring program) and everything was working perfectly a month ago. I could play any game without the slightest bit of lag at all. Now, my ABIT EQ shows that my power supply is going from 45 degrees Celcius to 75 degrees celcius in less than 20 seconds, whenever I run any program or game (excluding Internet Explorer, Firefox, and MapleStory).

I virus checked my computer: Nothing. Just to be sure, I USED Norton Ghost to restore my harddrive to what it was when I first bought it, but it still made no difference.

So, I made a program with QBASIC and tested it out, (It was a simple countdown made by using the SLEEP command), and I got this result:



Each box REPRESENTS 10 seconds (I think).
It STARTED decreasing when I CLOSED the program.

Basically, I don't know what in the world could cause this, but I would very much like to know. If anyone has even the slightest idea as to what could cause this, and/or how it could be fixed, please tell me.

TYVM,
- Steventrouble


P.S: If you need more information on my computer, just ask and I'll tell you.Tell us more about your hardware components: CPU, RAM, sound, video, how many disk drives, power supply, fans, etc. Exactly what power supply do you have?More details are needed about the system, but have you checked to make sure all fans, including the psu one are all working and free of dust.

As a few people already know i have had a new motherboard inserted into my computer , now i have checked with chris on the FOURM and he sees no sigh of any VIRUS's in my computer , my mother board is the asrock p4vm890 , and i am expreinceing exterme lag , EVERYTHING loads up very slow .

I have come to the conculsion it is 100% my motherboard that is causeing this lag as it is the newest hardware to my computer and before it was installed i had no troubles with running my computer.

Here is an overview of the spec of the board http://www.asrock.com/mb/overview.asp?Model=P4VM890&s=

As for my computer i am running windows x-p home edition , sp2 , 256mb ram ,a intel celron 3 i know this board supports in celron 4 but i know it also supports what im using .

my 256mb ram has never been a issue with slowness maybe on extreme games but thats it , it has never asffected my overall performnce

Is there anything i can do , is it possbile that the driverss that game with the board in the box , are out of date or do i need to INSTALL new ones of the site.


Ty for reading

Are you sure you don't have a slight overheating with the
CPU?

Clean hetsink and CPU and reseat.

When you changed motherboards are you sure you used the
correct memory?

http://www.crucial.com/store/listparts.aspx?model=P4VM890HMM im not 100% sure , you see i TOOK my computer to the shop assummeing i needed a new system fan it turned out i needed a new motherboard , i didnt see the installation of the board at all .

I dont know to much about the insside of my pc , i just know he would have put incorrect , memory in .

When did 'HE' do this service?well i think he has nicked my old ram as well!!!

Thats why my system is so slow !!!!!


have a look at the scan results and check out the speed of my ram.

http://www.crucial.com/uk/systemscanner/viewscanbyid.aspx?id=B9A586A231D926C3&tabid=&pagename=You sure need more ram.How much did you have when the shop got
your computer for repairs?Ok i have always had 256mb he has swapped for a slower speed calum worked out my old speed WAS PC2700.


iM GUNNA REPORT HIM ... Sorry, for your bad luck! Now,you know which shop not to go to.

Yes sir , i know ful well not shop to go to , , i have to wait untill next saturday now untill i can shove some more ram in there........ my pc aint gunna run like the delorean He took your video card and your RAM?! You definitely need to report this guy. I told you Calum was good with spotting these sorts of things!


EDIT: Wait...that link says you have 265MB installed. Isn't that what it should be?nO NO NO calum found out the speed was diffrent , he had put in the same ram but a slower speed , have a read in the OTHER part of the fourm i wrote up the full story on this guy.This topic is resolved, the problem is that the RAM was replaced with PC2000 RAM when it had been PC2700, for sure.
Look here for the full story.

They control things like standby and hibernation. Go to your Control PANEL and open up Power Options. Take a SCREENSHOT and post it here for US to take a look at.

I am about to get a P4 3.4 ghz chip to put on a P23g motherboard. There are 2 power connectors. The usual atx 20 pin connector and the 4 pin square 12v power connector. My power supply presently doesnt have the 12 volt connector. It says in the manual that its for "vcore" items. I dont mind buying a new power supply but wont if I dont have to. So my question is what is this 12 volt connector for. I got on the net and found myself here. Any help would be nice. Thanks.
RobertThis square connector is usually found on newer power SUPPLIES.

Older power supplies may not have these. It allows you to connect to a P4 mobo.you'll be OK without the 12 volt connector on that mobo*

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813185086

^ if the above mobo is the one you have, your ok with just the 20 pin connector for your needs*

Yes it will be the MB but its V 1.0, not V3.0 according the store Im buying it from. Is there a problem If I do get a PS and put this 12 volts to the connector or will I fry the whole DARN thing out? If it boosts speed of course I want to but Ill wait for a reply. Thanks for the quick replys already.
Robertyou will not fry anything plugging in the extra 4 pin connector...
if your getting the 650 pentium "sweet choice" !!! Its the 651. What exactly is the 4 pin connector for so I have some informed consent.
RobertYour four pin connector is for vcore COMPONENTS...

VCORE is the operating voltage of a CPU or GPU (or other device containing a processing core). It can be altered to help overclock a processor by reducing the time the circuit's logic gates take to SWITCH states. - Wikipedia

If your BIOS permits it, you can overclock your CPU, graphics, etc., using the voltage from your power supply.

Here's a program you may want to look into:

CPU-Z: http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.phpI have that program. I looked up Vcore myself and found what you did. I dont want to overclock so Im thinking this plug I dont need? I guess Ill read my manual to figure this out. Money doesnt grow on trees so I dont want to screw anything up.
Robert

Hello everyone,

I have a Gateway MX6445 here, in which I just REPLACED the LCD with a new one. It worked great for a few weeks but now the back light doesn't work. It'll come on for a couple seconds when the computer first boots, then nothing. If I tilt the screen to where the light hits it I can still see the actual image, so it's only an issue with the back light. The fact that it comes on for a few seconds leads me to believe all the CONNECTIONS are OK, and that the issue may be with SOMETHING else. What do you think? Any suggestions?

Thanks!
Joeydo you have this notebook ?

http://www.epinions.com/Gateway_Notebook_with_AMD_Turion_64_Mobile_Technology_ML_34_MX6445_PC_Notebook

did you REPLACE the screen yourself ?

Hi All,
Just had dealings with fastmemoryman on ebay. Also goes by the name of EBUYMART.
Bought some RAM which was meant to be new.....
Crashed my pc. Had it checked and was found to be faulty. Tried to get a refund from paypal, but told I would have to RETURN at my cost and pay all his fees!!!
Did a search and found he sells dodgy memory. Buys grade b memory cheap and sells it as grade a for more. Also overclocks processors to sell them at a higher price.
Just a warning to stay clear. ahhhhhhhh E BAY !!!!!

ummmm, i got my mom a beautiful! (the picture was awesome*) diamond tennis bracelet from that establishment about 5 years ago. Upon opening the package from the reputable NJ * dealer... I saw what appeared to be "yellow" diamonds ~XXX~

I have not bought anything on ebonk since ........... consider lesson LEARNED in life.
** GONG ** ste131........ Sorry to hear about your issue, but I just checked this seller out on Ebay ....and they have a better than 98% positive rating. I also note they have in excess of 140,000 items sold.
I don't know if you read the return policy...but it appears pretty plain to me.

RETURNS POLICY


The following CONDITIONS apply for refund:

1. The item must be Returned within 14 days of the date you received it.
2. Returned items must be in the original condition, not worn or altered and should be returned with all original documents.

3. E-Bay listing and selling charges, & postage and handling incurred will be deducted.
4. In Case of defect - an RMA # will be issued and replacement will be sent as soon we can verify that a defective PART was received back.

5. Buyer is responsible for return shipping costs & insurance and we will make a replacement or credit depends on our inventory. Returned units found to be in working order will be returned at buyer expense. Shipping, Handling, Insurance charges are not refundable. If buyer decides to take a refund for incompatible items - a US$ 8.00 fee per piece will be taken on top of the refund amount for Admin charges.


I am in no way supporting the seller.
Have you filed a complaint with Ebay? ( I don't mean a negative feedback)


dl65

I did, but I'm in the UK. It would cost more to send it back than I would get in a refund.

On the auction It said "shipped from Birmingham UK". No mention of returning to the USA. Ebay won't do anything, Paypal won't do anything, so I'm doing something!

Just thought I would warn people.

have a deskjet 686c PRINTER. this am it was TAKING paper, now it says out of paper and there is plenty of paper. the only thing that HAPPENED was my g-daughter put the cart. in backwards and the head stuck in the WRONG position, so she moved the head by hand. she fixed the cart. and then it would not grab the paper in the feed.
any help would be appreciated.Oh dear, sounds like a new printer REQUIRED to me

What do I need to build my own(super) computer.
Were would I put a agiea PhysX card if I brought one.
What case would I need.
Were can I find out these questions.
How do you build a computer?It would actually be cheaper to buy an already built computer with some good components. But if you're set on building it yourself check out www.tigerdirect.com
they've got a lot of nice STUFF for some pretty good prices... STILL it would be cheaper to buy one already built.

Also, are you wanting to use this for gaming? If so, what kind of games are you wanting to run? This would determine what components you should buy.Don't get a PhysX card, it's a waste of money.
As for the rest of your questions . . .
Quote

What do I need to build my own (super) computer.

What case would I need.

Where can I find out these questions.

How do you build a computer?

A reference, a very good one: Build Your Own PC. Another one: mechBgon's guide to building your first PC from parts

Sorry bout that saint_hades! Thanks for setting me straight Calum. I always thought it was cheaper to buy one. I guess it depends on what all you want it to do.

What do I need to build my own(super) computer.

I SEE that this has been somewhat covered in the past, but none of the instances seemed to exactly match mine. So I'd like some more clarification please.

I'm repairing a computer, the motherboard had gone bad, so I bought a new motherboard, same MODEL, however it seems to be a different revision. All the connections are in somewhat different places. I've got everything working except for this message, and a missing DRIVER for an "adara simplescsi miniport drivers" (tried googling, couldn't find much). All the drives show up in the bios/windows (optical/hard/floppy). This message didn't show up with the old motherboard (bad caps, would turn on long enough for the post). So could there be that much of a difference between revisions that I'd NEED a new cable? Or am I missing something?
Found a post somewhere that suggested turning on smart hard drive capability, which I don't belive this one supports. The drives are both on auto, and within device manager, have it set to dma if available (read somewhere to check that too). I'm at a loss, even tho this doesn't seem to affect the computer itself, would drive me crazy to return a computer with any error.

Motherboard model: MS-6340 there aren't revision numbers that I can see, but I assume that has to be the case between the two. Couldn't find much info on the board, maybe somebody else will have better luck. The info I found didn't seem to match the board I have. I can take digi pics if that's needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Did you get any IDE cables with the motherboard. You should have. The 80 is finer lined than the 40. Put an 80 in and the message should go away.

As for the other problem...

Alan <>< Quote from: ale52 on June 15, 2007, 09:56:43 AM

Did you get any IDE cables with the motherboard. You should have. The 80 is finer lined than the 40. Put an 80 in and the message should go away.

As for the other problem...

Alan <><

Check drive(s) settings in the jumpers. If more than one drive (HD and CDrom) set the HD to master and CD drive to slave. An 80 conductor cable is necessary for CS (cable select). Otherwise, replace the cable.

Make sure the HD is set as master.

My question is that I think it's my videocard but idk, I have talked to alot of people but none seem to know what the problem is. here is my problem.. I'm a gamer yes hehe. I play all sorts of games, I'm glued on an old game called tribes, for some reason this just started a few weeks ago and idk what's up! HELP!! it's starting to happen on other games as well mainly older games

when I go into game the screen starts to flicker, I have been told it's lag but i'm not on line playing a game, it only flickers here and there but, as soon as I go online to play the game it contious alot now!! continious flickering of the screen it's almost like lag, but i thinking it's my videocard, is something not setup right, is my card burning out... Image i am runing in my game with my guy I can see bits of video from the game flicker on my screen it somewhat lags me out for a sec and slows down the over all performece.. does anyone know what i mean?

Is there something I can do to fix this please help I am ruing a

P-4 system 3.2
120GB HDD
2G RAM
6800 gt 256mb card

it's a custom pc it's been in and out of repairs many times, everything runs fine it's stable but thease are my issues as of now, any help to what is casuing my problem or anyone that can exspline what is happening and how to fix it would be awesome!!!

THANKS alot!!

superWhat happened before this started?
What OS do you have?
Try updating your drivers.
Download new drivers, do not install them.
Uninstall old drivers.
Reboot.
Install new drivers.
Reboot.

And then clean your PC too, using this document as a guide.This could be a number of things, so i'll list below a few of the things.

(1) Heat problem, clean computer of dust and make sure all fans working.
(2) Spyware, get a spyware program and run it. Google for Ad aware its free.
(3) Defrag your hard drive.
(4) Disable sound card to just see if that fixes it.

Has your windows OS also started running slower? When was the last time you did a windows reinstall?I have cleaned out my pc from top to bottom I blew a fan last week and am getting system fail cpu test, but my pc is still fully operatinal.

As for spyware and stuff I run Ad-adware once every 2 weeks.

I defrag my system once a month.. sometimes twice.

Disable sound card to just see if that fixes it. <--- i'm not all 100% sure what you mean by that, and what good it may do??

My OS btw has started to slow down a bit lol thought it was just having an old pc..

Thanks guys for your help your awesome, I will probley just tell my feind who has BUILT it ahd repaired it when ever i have had problems... It might just need to be reformated and up to..

It's just what good is that if i plan to get a newer system in a few months? Quote from: Super D on June 14, 2007, 11:43:53 PM

Disable sound card to just see if that fixes it. <--- i'm not all 100% sure what you mean by that, and what good it may do??

I ordered and IBM netvista from Ebay a few weeks ago and my video card is too tall so i cant screw it in securely, i also cant put the case on with the graphics card just sitting in there.. i was wondering if there are certain cards that this computer takes and if there is what they are called... and if there isnt do you know of any 256mb graphics cards that will fit in this machine? thanks

levi18I hate to be a di-k! but, did you CONSIDER that type of case and the video card you owned before buying that model?

What model did you get? ### < numberno i didnt.. NEVER thought they actually made different sizes, i aint got much computer experience,where WOULD these numbers be? theres a few numbers on the front

mt-m 8303-sb3
s/n kLY9033



and theres no way you could be a di-k i know im an idiot for not checking if the graphics card would fit in this computer.
you have a good sense of understanding * lol i screw up everything I do on the puters too... its like learn as u go!! is your case one of those desktop models that lays flat on the desk?

it is not the "tall" standup kind right ?yes it is the type u set ur monitor onok, take a 15- 20 minute break, I'm getting some hot TEA,,,, let me do some numskull thinking here and I'll be back* allright, thank youdAHHHHHH

I FEEL LIKE TIMMY ON SOUTH PARK!!!

what type video card do you have ?? call me Einstein!nvidia something.. i lost t he case so i dont know what model and cant figure out a way to see what type it is without actually taking it out of the computerthey make like 100's of cards... go here and it's gonna take awhile and try* and find out which card you have....

No one will have a clue to your troubles unless we have an idea what card it is first, ok ??

go looking here*

http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=48&name=Video-Cards

im not sure.. nvidia fx 5500 pops into my mind as what it is but im really not sure i guess i gotta pop it out and look a the number

just checked this is the model
You NEED what's called a 1/2 height or low profile vid card...THANKS* Patio * THANK YOU

think i would be better off buying a low profile graphics card or just buying a new case and putting the guts in that one.

Ive got my girlfriends parents PC and I want to find out what motherboard it has. Ive opened the chassis and entered the numbers (Dell RevA01) on the internet and manufacturers SITE and found NOTHING specific. I would like to look over the specs for the motherboard. It is not connected to the internet.

Can anyone HELP???

Any and all ideas welcomeThat is the revision NUMBER of the motherboard. What MODEL dell is it you can search by that and see what boards that put in those boxes.DLoad and install Everest Home...it will tell you exactly what's in that machine.

My apologies if I have misplaced this topic.
The monitor works PERFECTLY FINE and the whole computer usually works. But a few days ago, it would have trouble turning on. I've checked all connections and they're all functional. Occasionally, the machine will half work. (Fans will be working but the lights will be blinking like crazy.) Other times, there's only a faint clicking sound inside.
EVERY now and then, the computer will actually work normally and turn on, but then after a few minutes, it'll turn off by itself. Actually it just shuts down without warning; every thing just goes black.
I have XP incase that helps.

ThanksHey , welcome to puterhope.com !!

1. Is your CASE (inside) nice and clean or filthy and dusty web-like

2. Have you added any new hardware recently and is the psu* power supply the original unit and how many watts is it rated at?

It's "PROBABLY" your power supply about to quit on you*Well, I cleaned it out recently because when we opened it up there was a lot. I tried to turn it on, but it still didn't work. We didn't install anything new, so it probably is just the power supply then. Thanks.

whenever i press certian buttons on my keyboard some search results window opens up or it will TYPE SOMETHING random like when i press shift this is what gets typed 9F]; also it takes me to my homepage there r also other buttons like a that open the search results window i had to copy and paste a 'a' so i could type this out

plz helpI'd just get a new keyboard. They're cheap enough.You might have a key sticking (Ctrl or Alt for example). Try giving your keyboard a thorough cleaning. If that doesn't help, try replacing it. Like beanhead says, they're pretty cheap. You could, of course, test someone ELSE's keyboard on your computer first if you WOULD prefer.

Ive added an additional DVD drive to my PC, but i THINK i've made a boo boo. Both of the DRIVES on the Cable SELECT switch and the new drive has been recognised but does not work. I'm running Windows XP.

I've got a feeling that one should be set to Master and other to Slave, but i'm totally unsure and don't want to take the case off again until i'm 100%.

Has any-one any advice??I make the primary drive (burner) the master and the copy drive or dvd drive a slave. Primary is the top drive in my boxes.

Cable select should be fine also.To TRY it master and slave the drive at the end of the RIBBON should be master with the one in the middle connector set as slave...

Many burners do not like cable-select.

I recently REPLACED my power supply and now everytime I turn on my computer, It frezzes on the BLUE HP start up screen and will not boot. What is wrong? and how do I fix it! I have a HP Pavilion, I bought it about 3 years ago, PLEASE HELP!! Thanks. you getting any error messages or beeps after you turn it on?Sometimes I get the error message "REBOOT & Select Boot Media" but sometimes it frezzes up on the blue screen, it all depends on how I hook up the power supply to the HDD, I tried differerent ways to hook it up. I need to know the right way.Make sure your ide or sata cable did not get damaged when you changed the PSU.

Make sure the little jumper on the back of your hard drive did not FALL out in the process.Who do computers need horse poweR=?½!!!½!!!½!½!½!!½!""!!! Quote from: shimal on September 06, 2007, 04:17:32 AM

Who do computers need horse poweR=?½!!!½!!!½!½!½!!½!""!!!

Quote from: shimal on September 06, 2007, 04:17:32 AM

Who do computers need horse poweR=?½!!!½!!!½!½!½!!½!""!!!

What does this mean ? ?

Greetings All

I'm a Doughnut when it comes to this stuff, so be gentle with me! ... It's my first time!

OK using a 7 PORT powered usb hub, and I want to add the same again (link together), can this be done? and if so how? ....... (simple terms please) ........

I think you can but the power of the USB will be very weak (Such as transfering infomation back and FORTH will be slow, or the slot might be to weak to power up anything...).Quote from: Doughnut ! on June 15, 2007, 03:07:14 PM

OK using a 7 port powered usb hub, and I want to add the same again (link together), can this be done? and if so how? ....... (simple terms please) ........

Hi, is it normal to see your internal hard drive in the "Safely remove hardware" tab in the taskbar? I know it only comes out when you connect a device in the USB port. Everytime I start Windows XP its always there. Is it safe if I remove my hard drive from there?What happens if you click it? Do you have more than one hard drive?This is definitely not normal....what happened prior to this ? ?

If you select remove you may risk losing your data.

Do you have a real XP CD to do a repair install ? ?The pc was handed down to me by a friend. Its been like that since I got it. It only has one SATA hard drive that is partitioned into 2. I really dont want to risk removing it from the tab. Do you think I should reinstall XP?To my knowledge this is normal for a SATA HDD in XP. I currently have vista but when I had XP (on the PC in sig) this happened. It is because the motherboard supports SATA plug and GO or something like that. XP does not realise that you don't really want to remove the system drive as this feature came out after XP. I don't recommend reinstalling because it's not a problem and it probably wont change anything and I just hid that notification item.

There may be BIOS settings that address this though.Quote

To my knowledge this is normal for a SATA HDD

The computer was actually built by my friend. The motherboard he used was MSI K8N Diamond Plus. I havent checked if it supports swappable SATA drives. If you dont think that this is actually a problem then its a great relief. I really dont wanna reinstall XP. I'm just concerned that I might accidentally remove it.

Quote from: jquin3 on June 19, 2007, 01:16:00 AM

The computer was actually built by my friend. The motherboard he used was MSI K8N Diamond Plus. I havent checked if it supports swappable SATA drives. If you dont think that this is actually a problem then its a great relief. I really dont wanna reinstall XP. I'm just concerned that I might accidentally remove it.

Yes it's not a problem and to actually remove a drive you first have to open the dialog, select device, press stop and confirm. Not something you can do accidentally.

Quote from: DeltaSlaya on June 19, 2007, 03:16:00 AM

Quote from: jquin3 on June 19, 2007, 01:16:00 AM

The computer was actually built by my friend. The motherboard he used was MSI K8N Diamond Plus. I havent checked if it supports swappable SATA drives. If you dont think that this is actually a problem then its a great relief. I really dont wanna reinstall XP. I'm just concerned that I might accidentally remove it.

Yes it's not a problem and to actually remove a drive you first have to open the dialog, select device, press stop and confirm. Not something you can do accidentally.

Not necessarily true. That's if you right-click on the Safely Remove Hardware icon. If you left-click, it will let you choose the hardware through a different menu. Check out my attached image; this is very easy to do by accident.

Hi

Today, I have just finished a sweet falling sand mod and I want to put it on another computer, but when I try to burn the CD, the wizard says I don't have a CD in the drive. I have checked numerous times and i have a rewritable CD (CD-RW) and a rewritable CD drive.

(PS I have a Sony VAIO laptop running on WINXP.) What software are you using to burn the CD?
I guess the standard XP CD Writing Wizard.
I've never got on with it, mainly because of this.
If I were you I'd GET some CD writing software - I've heard good things about CDBurnerXP Pro.Try a different brand of BLANK media...

I have a usb hard drive (60GB western digital 2.5", Rosewill case) that I use to back up my laptop (Dell Inspiron 1505). Attaching this usb hard drive to the Dell machine has never been a problem. It has been recognized immediately. I attempt to attach the usb hard drive to a second computer (Compaq/HP nc6400) and it isn't recognized. Occasionally on the HP machine I will get the pop-up that usb hardware has failed to install. Typically, I get no message. I cannot see the drive in Control/Admin/Computer Management/Drive Management.

Both machines are running WinXP Pro SP2. I have full admin rights on both machines. I typically use a usb cord that plugs into 2 usb ports on the laptops - allowing the drive to draw power from multiple ports as needed ALTHOUGH I've run it with the power from a single port as well. One more bit of information about the HP machine - it does recognize a Sandisk USB flash drive with no difficulty. Have you tried it on the other machine with the powered hub installed ? ?

Are these the front USB ports ? ?

Some of these are notorious for being underpowered...try the REAR ones if this is the case...On the Compaq/HP, there are 2 usb ports on the left side of the machine & one on the right side. I have used the usb y-cord (connects to the 2 usb ports on the left side laptop) as well as trying it connected to only a single usb port. The results are SIMILAR. Let me add one more curiousity to the mix. I have attached this usb hard drive to a desktop machine and it failed to recognize it. I attached it through a d-link 4 port powered usb hub. No response at all from the desktop indicating that the hard drive was seen MUCH less installed.

I would like to know how I can insert the tray back to the CD-ROM DRIVE. And it appears to be still perfect with no damages.
When I try to insert it, there is great resistance that I can't continue to push it. HOWEVER I can still pull it out again.
It seems to be related with how a CD-ROM drive is made and related with the mechanism of the drive
Can anyone HELP? Thanks very much.

my COMPUTER model can be seen here: http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/me/en/sm/WF06a/1768489-1768765-1768765-1768765-12236928-12236954.html

and the drive should be 16X DVD+/-RW Driveit just became seperated must have some powerful ejection force in there

i've had this problem numerous times... mainly after having PULLED it out.. with the resistance you're feeling is the tray bending? if it starts to bend you don't really want to push any harder, but have you tried puushing it in and pressing the eject button? the gears are what stops it going in place, and if the gears are in a position where the trasy can't be inserted, the only thing to do is move them until they fit with the grooves on the side of the tray Thanks very much
the problem has been solved anytime How ? ?

I'm considering purchasing a computer from Dell. Looking at their inspiron series I'll probably get one of those. However, the one I fancy has a

"AMD® Live Technology - Athlon™ 64 X2 Dual Core PROCESSOR 5600+"

i was brought up on intel pentiums. How does this compare? is is a 2.0ghz, 2.33, 2.6? Is it dual core?

More importantly, will I be able to play all my computer games that require intel? (Oblivion, POP, etc.)No swet... But be warned dell have dodgy psu's

Cheep parts are often used......The Athlon X2 5600+ is dual core, 64 bit, comparable to a high-end Pentium D.
However, none of the Athlon CPUs can stand up to Intel's Core 2 Duo range, I highly recommend getting a computer with a Core 2 CPU instead.Thanks Calum,

How does a 2.0gHz core 2 compare to a 3n2ghz pentium 4? Will i be able to run the same programs? will performance improve?

Also is it worth the jump from 2.0 to 2.33 because I can't afford that right now. Any Core 2 will beat the **** out of a P4.
Whatever Core 2 you can afford is worth it - if you don't have the cash to go higher it doesn't matter.
Which actual models are you looking at? As in, E6300, E4300, or whatever.I'm looking at an E4400. I've been saving for about a year and have about £470 to spend, to replace a PC that died a year ago. All I want it for is to play Oblivion really, and games within the last two years.

Do you think that an intel core 2 2.0ghz, 256mb GeForce 8500 GT and 2gb ram will be up to that?If you're comfortable with building your own, I can SEND you a spec SHEET for a test PC I drew up for my family.
Basically just a parts list, but includes a dual core Intel CPU, 1Gb RAM, and the potential for high-end graphics cards etc.
If not, then the build there will be fine.
However, consider getting a slower CPU to save some cash, and spending what you save on a better graphics card.I've built PCs in the past but I don't have the time or will power to do it again.
Thanks for the advice calum, dead useful! will consider a video card upgrade You're welcome.
Do get that video upgrade though, the 8500GT is an OK card but don't expect it to play Oblivion at BLISTERING speeds.Paid for PC today, should arrive by the 14th. Thanks for the advice!Cool.
Let us know how it goes, and enjoy.
And finally, you're very welcome.PC arrived today, plays oblivion excellently with HDR, shadows reflections and all extra crap and is blazingly fast compared to my flaky PIII. Yay!Great!
Glad you're enjoying it.
What specs did you go for in the end?

I'm running:
Dell Dimension E521
Windows XP Home SP2
AMD Athlon 64 x2 Dual Core 3800+
2.00 Ghz, 1.00gb Ram

Diamond Stealth ATI Radeon X300se with 256mb
http://www.diamondmm.com/X300SE256HM-CN.php

This isn't a dire problem, but it annoys the crap out of me.

On only CERTAIN SCREENS the top of the window it doesn't show it correctly and for instance on the Display Properties it won't show the tabs
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x31/chickeninferno/fixthis.jpg


I'm pretty computer savy but this is just an oddity that I have no clue on.
Please Help.

Has it always been like this?
If not, what happened before it started?It's always been like this.
I've never really had a problem with it, and I had seen the problem before but I ignored it.
Though today, I attempted to change my wallpaper and to my suprise the tabs weren't even there. I clicked around and EVENTUALLY it got to my tab, but it's defintily a graphics issue.Hold the left button on the mouse on the title bar and drag the window down to where you can see EVERYTHING...close out and re-open and you should be good to GO...You are saying to basically try to highlight the tabs but they don't highlight

When ever I boot my computer I get the message “Boot failed. Select the bootable device and try again”. But if I re boot again it will work properly. Why I cant boot it at the first time? Once i have added one more jumper to my Hard disk.. Is it the casue?Did the problem start before or after you put the other jumper on?

Alan <>< Quote from: robins_mca on June 19, 2007, 10:48:43 PM

When ever I boot my computer I get the message “Boot failed. Select the bootable device and try again”. But if I re boot again it will work properly. Why I cant boot it at the first time? Once i have added one more jumper to my Hard disk.. Is it the casue?

ok,i start it from here,this pc was using windows xp sp2,256mb + 128mb Ram,around 2Ghz processor. i have SOMEONE selling me a RAM 512,so i replace the 256mb with the new 512mb ( actually it's a 2nd hand ) then turn on the PC.after the windows loading screen it's going BLACK for a second (like normal ) then appear the blue screen saying that "physical memory dump"..then i guess it could be from the RAM.after that i take out the RAM,try it 1 by 1 with the PC but none of its can bypass the blue screen.i have no idea what to do then i just format the Hard disk,then try the new RAM together with the
128mb after that the 256,it's just fine..so,the question are,what up with the "physical memory dump"?ok go here http://www.memtest86.com/ , and download the program , burn to a CD at a slow speed 6x i think will be fine..... once burnt , reboot with cd in machine , make sure you tap f8 and boot from your dvd/cdrom drive ...... once thats done you should see a blue screen which will run some tests on your memory , come back and give us the results ......

I personally think its better downloading the zipped ISo and burning it with power-iso .......

http://www.poweriso.com/

&

you will need this to open the zipped folder http://www.rarlab.com/

cheers Tony hummm...how can i use the cd?i already solve the problem by formating the PC & now its fine,how should i know what CAUSE it?thats all.by the way,tq 4 replying..Case closed...... when you ask for are help , dont go behind are backs and wipe your computer ........... we have been trying to help you and you did that

Hi group.. maybe someone can help me out here. About once a week when my system boots it tells me to enter CMOS due to Overclocking & fix the mess . Trouble is i don't KNOW whats causing the mess . I am not smart enough to overclock a computer so i am WONDERING if this could just be an erroneous message or is something taking place that could cause this..It would be NICE to know what type of mobo & cpu you have in there FIRST but, obviously something is wrong.

Be careful (ground yourself) grab the case both hands for a second, get off any carpeting, take the battery out of your case for about a minute.
Put it back in, secure your case and start it back up .. this should restore your system to their default values. I have seen that error in the past if the CMOS battery is dead or dying. Otherwise it might need a bios flash.I would not SUGGEST a BIOS flash...many doorstops have been created using this method.

hi my hp PSC 1317 printer has developed a fault.>it seems to be dead,however when you PLUG it in the control PANAL lights flash on and off, then nothing!

Any advice would be great

thanks russUnplug it from the MACHINE
Remove the device from Device Manager.
Remove the software using Add/Remove Programs
Shut Down.
Re-boot and re-install the software and CONNECT the printer when the software prompts you for it.

I came downstairs and turned the computer on so it would boot up whilst I was having BREAKFAST.
When I came in to the STUDY after having breakfast, the computer hadn't booted up.
But the hard drive LIGHT has come on and stayed on, and one of the lights on the CD drive has come on and stayed on.

When I press the button to turn it on nothing happens, when I hold it in, nothing happens, when I turn it off at the wall and turn it on again the lights come back on and stay on.

What do I do?Just check that your monitor cable is pluged in

There is no sound coming from the tower, the keyboard isn't on (neither is the mouse because it's plugged in to the keyboard).


The monitor is plugged in properly, but it can't show anything if the PC hasn't booted up properly
Can you boot with your install disk?I can't even boot up the PC, so i'm unable to open the disc-drives.

Even if I turn it off at the power supply and turn it on again, the lights come back on, so I'm unable to boot up the PC at all. Could be a power supply issue !,

can you try a DIFFERENT cable into the tower ?I've changed the power supply, the opposite has happened, I've pressed the button and only the green light has come on, there is still little/no noise coming from the towerYou PSU might have blown is there any way for you to try a new psu in you computer ?

Is the fan spinning on your CPU ?We don't have another PC in the HOUSE

and no the fan is not spinningI reckon you need a new psu then

My 17" flat screen monitor has died....I think.
Have been noticing a few times over the last wee that it made a TINY zap sound and flickered at times.

Today it zapped & went away. Hooked up an old pavillion M50 I had, seemed like a straight forward fix. 5 min later the M50 flickered once. Now I' m paranoid. Anything that could make the monitor death a symptom of another cause?

I'm going to pick up a new LCD monitor tomorrow, but don't want to fry it as well.

BTW, plugged in the dead monitor and tried it again....still dead.I'm not saying it definitely is the problem but if 2 different monitors exhibited the same SYMPTOMS that vid card may be the culprit...either that or your electrical wiring going to the machine and components...Try your monitor on another computer. patio is onto something here...

If it works, I'd suspect your video card.
If it truly is fried, it might be electrical like patio suggests, and if that's the case, I absolutely would not hook a new monitor up to that machine.i had the same problem before. I had this great 17" CTX monitor, probably the best i've had at all albeit huge and heavy, and I remember a few weeks before it died, it'd lose a bit of color and also make that zapping. Then I finally remember it zapped for good. I just bought some generic Wal-Mart 15" LCD and it works, so i'm pretty sure it is your monitor.

EDIT: this only pretty much applies to older monitors. If your monitor is pretty new, i would suggest the video card. and just a question; when it zapped, did it keep making that zapping noise (sounds like something frying on a pan)? And did it stink up after a while?I picked up a new LCD flatscreen and all seems ok. No further flickers.

Question about my settings..
Everything is short and elongated on the new monitor. I tried adjusting the settings, but the ones suggested by the monitor paperwork aren't available to me.
If I get a new video card with the available settings, will this be corrected?

BTW, I downloaded & installed the driver for the monitor, so the model # now shows up in the settings box, so I think I'm set there.

I guess I just want to know if I'll get it to look "normal " again, or did I waste $ for the LCD ESPECIALLY with the new expense of a new vid card.

PS THANKS for the help, as always.

I was looking at this board and it SAYS that it supports agp 8x and pci-e X16 graphics. Is this accurate?? I checked the manufacturer's site and couldn't find anything there. It's an Epox EP-AD580XR. Are there any BOARDS that do support both?


http://www.motherboards.org/mobot/motherboards_d/Epox/EP-AD580%2BXR/I don't know if any boards that support both, but the board you linked to only support PCI Express. It MUST be a mistake on motherboards.org.