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I'm having trouble with the video card in my computer. I had to shitch out the power supply and that appear to be working propoerly however - the video card doesn't.

When I boot-up my computer, I get the usual screens in DOS and all appears to be normal. My Window XP screen comes on and then the screen goes black. It happens at the same point each time.

The screen is the one I used to use on this same computer - it worked fine.
The video card wasn't changed or even touched.
My video card does not get a separate power supply. It is MOUNTED securely.
The screen was PLUGGED in properly.
The old power supply was rated at 300 watts - so is the new one (it max's out at 320 - so that's not a factor) and I matched the new hook-up point for point to the old one.
The card warms-up when the computer is on so power is going to the card.
The drivers and settings weren't changed - and everything stayed the same from the time when the computer was working with this same card and screen.

Does anyone have an idea on what's going on here?

~Erwyllian
I suspect the PSU you swapped in there has outlived it's useful life...try another one.Quote from: Erwyllian on September 03, 2007, 01:27:16 PM

The old power supply was rated at 300 watts - so is the new one (it max's out at 320 - so that's not a factor)

I have a scanner and joystick converter and printer WHIH runs THOUGH usb port but i am having problems with usb port it dosnt reckonise these, the software drivers are ok.do i need new usb driver.running 98se any help
Yes Win98 does need USB device drivers...many manuf. don't write them anymore though.
Check their respective websites to see if their available...Try nusb31e.exe.


GoHere driverguide.com also good...do some research..DONT be LAZY..

Hi all,

bit a newbie with things like this so any help would be very MUCH appreciated.. on to my prob. About a year ago got an external harddrive to save my videos, music, pics, generally stuff really but i went to turn it on the other day and no power going into it. I had my mate check the power supply and power going through the power cable but no power going into the device. is it possible to CONNECT the actual harddrive to my pc to transfer the FILES to either my pc or a new external harddrive that i have bought. I am running xp home edition on my desktop and vista on my latop. do you have any other suggestions as to what i could to move the files from one to another?? could i possibly just switch around the old and new harddrive even though they are different brands, would the connections be different?

APOLOGISES for all the questions

many thanks in advanceThe external HDD can indeed be hooked up internally.
Carefully remove it from the external case.
On the rear of the drive next to the power connector and IDE connector there will be a set of 10 or 12 pins.
Check the drive manuf. site to see how to jumper it as a SLAVE drive.
Put the jumper in place and hook it up to a middle connector on the IDE ribbon cable.
Then hook up the Molex power plug and re-boot.
You should now be able to see the drive in Windows Explorer and copy/move files from it...

As always when working inside the case make sure all power sources are removed and take neccessary anti-static precautions...

Is there a way to tell the wattage on my power supply without removing the cover?
-WadeI'm quite sure the answer is no. No such data is PASSED from the PSU to some program in your computer or to Windows. Some software tools, such as EVEREST Free Edition 2.20 can be used to obtain very detailed info about your hardware and software but I just looked at an Everest report on my system and it contains nothing about the PSU. If yours is a brand name purchased as assembled from
the factory,you should be able to do a web search and
find out what size PSU you have.

If not try the manufacturers website.

Thanks guys! I'll opt for disconnecting and taking the cover off... The link to MEDIEVAL TECH Support was hilarious!
-Wade

I recently purchased a DDR 1024 MB 266mhz memory stick. I meant to get the DDR 1024 MB 400mhz stick. Is there a major difference in performance between a 1024-266 and a 1024-400 memory stick?

Thanks What's in the machine now and what will the MBoard support speed wise ? ?
Travel to Crucial.com to find out...It has a DDR 256 400mhz. I am not sure what the motherboard supports, but I know it will handle 2048MB, 1 gig per slotThe point is if the RAM is backwards compatible but the MBoard only supports the lower speed that is the speed the RAM will run at... It has a DDR 256 400mhz. < What size stick 256k, 512k or a 1# gig stick ? Obviously it is running/working at the 400 mhz speed, more than likely the mobo will handle the backward incapability but; it will run the ram at the lower speed 256 ...I would make the effort to get the Right* stick of 400 . Depending on the other size stick, you would want to run this in dual (2 of the same sticks) channel mode.I know the motherboard supports the higher speed because it CAME with it.
I have already installed the 1024mb-266mhz and it works just fine.
I was just WANTING to know how much of a performance difference there would be b/w the 266 & the 400. If it makes a highly noticeable performance increase, then I am going to return it and get the 400mhz stick.
If it isn't much of a difference, then I'll just keep what I have.
Either option, it sure is an upgrade from a mere 256 megs of RAM!!As others have already said, your RAM is now going to run at 266mhz. Now that you have 1280mb RAM(assuming you have th 1g and the 256mb installed, that's a lot of RAM compared to what you're used to. That's also too much POTENTIAL speed being held back due to a mistake. If I were you I would return the RAM while you still can.

Hi, recently put together a system complete with a liteon cd burner. Problem is, I can't burn cds. I can read them fine, but can't burn them. I've tried Nero, Win MEDIA, and the BUILT in XP burning program, and I do have finalize disk checked. Here's what's HAPPENING- The cd "burns successfully", and even appears to have burnt successfully judging by the burn lines on the disc, which are even and well defined. When burning an audio cd the disk just does NOT want to play in any cd player. It will, however, play every once in a while but will start skipping more(even skips in the backround) as it starts getting towards the higher tracks. It isn't the cd player because I have older, scratched up cds that play fine, using the same exact media brand.
One thing that might possibly be the cause, or is at least suspicious to me, is that the cd burner is listed as IDE master in channel 0. Channel 0? There isn't even a channel 1 listed in my bios, and my SATA drive is listed under IDE master in channel 2. I can't change these settings. I also had this problem with a different cd burner from my old computer after I switched out the motherboard. This leads me to believe that there might be a setting in BIOS that I need to adjust. I also cannot find a firmware upgrade for my burner..but it should at least burn cds RIGHT? Haven't been able to burn cds for a few months now between the 2 SYSTEMS. Finally decided to ask for help, thanks in advance.I'm not sure about the hardware aspects of this, but...what speed are you burning at? I experiened similar problems from burning too fast. Try a slower speed like 16x or even 8x. Any difference?You could switch it to IDE1 but i doubt it will make a difference...
I would borrow/buy one CD of as many different brands of blank media one at a time til i found which ones work...

How can I use an external hard DRIVE to boot windows?My newer computer has a now-defunct hard drive.I want to use the FILES on this computer and use it on my newer one,which has the better memory and better processor.

Now I'm not sure if copying files from another computer to an external hard drive to make it work with another computer will make some hardware conflict.I don't KNOW about older versions of Windows but XP and newer doesn't like being booted from external hard drives will not at all without some serious customization. Since you haven't told us what version of windows you plan on using it is hard to guide you further except to say that the general advice is to not attempt it.Um,not sure what version this computer is using,do you know where I can find the version at?All I know is that this computer is Windows XP Home EditionXP Home would be the version then.
You can take a look at this if you really want to try it.
http://www.ngine.de/index.jsp?pageid=41762 things you need to consider...
1) you have to find out if your MBoard supports booting to a USB device...if it doesn't this is an excersize in futility.
2) Follow the link above an dalso google "booting XP from an external drive" and see what is involved.
It's difficult to do at best but this is by design. I guess Gates didn't want everyone walking around with bootable external drives for some reason...Quote from: CompBoy09 on September 03, 2007, 11:17:26 AM

How can I use an external hard drive to boot windows?My newer computer has a now-defunct hard drive.I want to use the files on this computer and use it on my newer one,which has the better memory and better processor.

Now I'm not sure if copying files from another computer to an external hard drive to make it work with another computer will make some hardware conflict.

I have a P4 3.2processor with a 800mb ASUS motherboard. I have had this problem for for about 6 months; it would disappear on its own. LATELY it has been occuring constantnly every day. What it does is it constantnly STUTTERS (~1sec intervals), the sound, the video, and the keyboard and MOUSE. I have tried reformatting and re-installing windows xp but no change. The hard-drive is new so I dont think its anthing with that; same with my RAM, I have 2gb ddr. Now, I think its either the processor or the motherboard
I can't tell for sure and I dont have the equipment to test it. I have taken the computer in for maintenance and was TOLD there is nothiig wrong with it
I'm not sure what else to do with this problem and I can't find information on it anywhere.
Any tips would be helpful!

Thanks, OviDoes the stuttering occur in safe mode?Yes it does during Safe Mode also.have you tried changind internal ide or sata cables , does the does the hdd light come on when it is stutering??

my pc always reboot and hangs up.... wats the problem anyway?Well, you haven't given us any details about your computer. What make and model? Hardware specs? Did the problem start all of a sudden or has it been getting gradually worse? Did you make any changes to your system before this started?

EXPLAIN the behavior in more detail. Does this happen RIGHT after you TURN the computer on or after it's been on for awhile? How long after it's been on? Does it seem to vary, depending on how heavy you're tasking your computer?

What are your normal maintenance procedures (disk cleanup, defrag, spyware removal)? What other protections (virus, firewall) do you use?Is this a recent problem or a recurring one? Have you added new hardware/software, or removed hardware/software? Post that information then we can help you FIGURE that out.

Also if you are able to be LOGGED on for any amount of time you can set windows to not restart on system errors. Once we know your OS we can walk you through that.

Hi. I just downloaded software for a keyboard and mouse from Kensington on my new DELL XPS 210 computer. I got a message to reboot the computer, so turned it off and back on. When it came on the USB keyboard and mouse no longer worked. I unplugged them and plugged in the USB connector and new mouse and key board. They don't work either. I couldn't shut down NORMALLY, so pushed the start button, waited and turned it on again. The keyboard and mouse still dont work. I get a message saying that the devices are not functioning.
My question: How do I fix this problem WITHOUT a keyboard or mouse>
Everything I've seen says to point to this, click this, or type in this..how do I do this without a keyboard? Or Mouse?
I've retried the USB keyboard and mouse and neither work.
I'm getting worried as my logic TELLS me there is a big problem now!
I went on the kensington website (on my old computer) and it says, DO NOT DOWNLOAD Software on VISTA - the keyboard and mouse work without it. There is no further information - I wish I'd known this before I downloaded the software.

Any advice would be most appreciated. I'm not an expert - just a person who tries to find solutions and learn.
Thanks so much.wait, so you're saying you're running vista?

also, what do you mean by "software" for your keyboard and mouse? do you mean a driver?

if so, i'm not sure about vista, but you can try rolling back the drivers by going to device manager, and selecting the device you want.

do this by :

right click on my computer>HARDWARE>device managerif you can connect a PS2 keyboard and PS2 mouse, then reboot and remove/ uninstall/ roll back the downloaded drivers from the hardware management or check for a system restore point (before the drivers were installed) that you can go back to which might resolve the changes

http://www.cantoraccess.com/keyaccess/keyaccessfaq.htm

This is the link i GAVE in your other thread...it's how to use a machine without a mouse, You will need to do this to remove the Kensington software to get back to page one...

Sorry if this has been asked a million TIMES before, but anyway the problem is that although the red light on my flash drive flashes when I plug it in, when I open My COMPUTER the drive you are supposed to click on (E:) does not show up. It was working fine FIRST thing this morning but shortly afterwards I was not able to do anything with it and many hours laters the problem STILL remains, despite several attempts on both my lap top and non-portable home computer, including rebooting, plugging it in the other socket etc. Do you think it might have suffered some internal damage of some sort because I was carrying it about a lot today for work with my lap top and other components? If not, can the problem still be solved in some way or other?

Thanks if you could help!If the drive isn't working on two different computers I would suspect the flash drive have died on you.yeah,could be the flash drive.it's not overheating when plug into the pc?
try different flash drive in same pc,if it works then buy a new flash drive,if not,could be the USB port.Quote from: kuszmania9999 on September 02, 2007, 01:39:19 AM

try different flash drive in same pc,if it works then buy a new flash drive,if not,could be the USB port.

Before you give up on it look for a microswitch on the drive itself...some are made with them but their hard to spot.

1. Does anybody know how i can bridge some connections (Ie. My desktop computer through to my wireless router via my laptop wireless card.)

2. Does anybody know how i can CANCEL or STOP an internal computer's connection to the wireless router? Via my laptop....Ie. I want to use my laptop as a MASTER computer and allow/disallow who i wish to be able to use the net.1.) Let me see if I'm understanding you right, you want to give your Desktop access to the internet via your laptop's wireless connection? If so you need to setup internet connection sharing on your laptop.

2.) What computers do you wish to block? If you want to block strangers from gaining access to your wireless network the easiest way would be to encrypt the wireless signal so anyone who wants to connect would need a password.You posted pretty much what I was just going to say, Deerpark.
Something you didn't add though is:

Why do you want to do this?



Sounds like you're trying to do something bad...I could be mistaken though Nothing malicious, just if my sister is hogging all the bandwith while im playing an online action game......BOOT...lolI would just work out a schedule with Sis and be patient explaining it...

Sister's can be tough to reason with but you attract more bees with Honey than Vinegar...Can you guys just help me with the problem not the ethics xD

If i want an ethical SOLUTION i'd ask a priest or something lolI know the feeling, I have the same issues.
Me - BF2142. Sister - Youtube. "Excuse me, I'm getting major LAG here. Just tone down the videos, and just do something else, huh?" Doesn't work though.
Just be patient and keep explaining, you'll have more luck than me I hope.
Also, I think you'd find it hard to limit the bandwidth anyway.If you wanted to CONTROL access to the net like that, you'd need to ROUTE all computers on the network through your laptop. I wouldn't recommend it though. First of all the laptop would have to be on whenever access to the net was required, second of all in my experience laptops aren't well designed for running 24/7.

Also you'd need a real gateway program, as far as I know Windows connection sharing doesn't let you control who have access to the net like you want.

I only know one gateway program, Wingate, but that isn't freeware.

Or you could buy a router that allows you to setup priorities for different types of traffic, like streaming video and online gaming.

I've been getting a black screen on my computer.The black screen occurs when the "Windows XP" Logo with the loading bar gets done loading,after that it goes black and nothing appears.

The first time this HAPPENED was yesterday,I was in the "Windows system Recovery Console".This isn't system recovery,its like MS-DOS where you can
input commands to be executed.

What I did was use the command CHKDSK(Check disk)to see where all the data was allocated.After that I used the command CHKDSK /P Which scans the disk for errors.

The thing is the first time it WORKED,the second time the black screen appeared.I used the same method over and over with no results,anyone know what it may be?

PLEASE and THANKS for you REPLIES!chkdsk /p is an entire scan yet it takes no corrective measures...
Run chkdsk /r and see what happens.I did that earlier as well,it took about an hour to complete.It didn't change this.

Before I go further,I have no WinXP CD.So I either have to go buy one or take it to a repair person.I don't know what problem you're having, but because I just went through a WGA from Microsoft, I will advise you that if your computer needs anything done to it that requires Windows being uninstalled, buy a copy of Windows. Although, if you get the puter reloaded with Windows and you get the WGA you can purchase a copy of windows online for $150.00. When you do get your copy, DON'T LET ANYONE LOAD IT ONTO THEIR
COMPUTER.

BTW, if you purchase a CD from Wal*Mart or some other outlet, be sure you get a full program not just an UPGRADE. I know Wal*Mart sells a Windows XP for 90.00 something but it's only an upgrade.In the words of GX1_Man..everyone needs a Windows CD sooner or later...
If this is an OEMbuilt machine i.e.Gateway or Dell ETC. you could contact them for one at a discount price...
You will need proof of purchase but that's about it.

after trying to install sam linux 2007,when i run windows it say's i only have 503mb of hard drive space,when i know it's a 10gb drive.yet when i run sam 2007 live cd it detects 10 gb and six partitions.windows doe's not see any.anyone know whats gone wrong or how to correct it.What VERSION of Windows, what model of hard drive, and how many partitions are really there? Did you use some sort of drive overlay software? Any kind of compression being used?

Details are helpful, including what is SAM Linux?Quote from: GX1_Man on September 01, 2007, 03:10:27 PM

What version of Windows, what model of hard drive, and how many partitions are really there? Did you use some sort of drive overlay software? Any kind of compression being used?

Details are helpful, including what is SAM Linux?

Where exactly is Windows reporting 503mb drive space? Are you sure it isn't just the size of the Windows partition?

Was Windows installed first? It should have been as a primary partion of whatever size you need. 2 gig would be the minimum I would use. With the remainder of the drive as free space, Linux installs will set up swap file, etc. as needed. If you used QParted or some other means of resizing partitions you would need to let us know.

I hope you had everything backed up first.

Yes, I do speak linux.

I googled and did find references for SAM linux.

http://www.sam-linux.org/

They have a disclaimer in bold that says:

As usual: THIS IS A TEST RELEASE, DONT USE IT FOR SERIOUS WORK!

You may want to look at Vector Linux, or SLAX, if you want something a little more mainstream.

Delete programs that are unneccesary and back up the data only. A good format and reinstall after that will fix everything. Keep in mind that you may need to delete the linux partitions with the linux CD if your startup disk does not do it.

I just upgraded my brothers computer to a new MOTHERBOARD+processor, graphic card, and memory. The motherboard only supports SATAII harddrives and I remembered wrong that his was actually two IDE harddrives. So I went to Frys and the guy said there's a card a PCI card that you can plug in the IDE harddrives into and it switches it into SATA. Here take a look http://siig.com/ViewProduct.aspx?pn=SC-PE4B12-S4. The problem is that when windows GETS to the loading screen it just pops up a REALLY brief blue screen of death and then it just restarts. I'm pretty sure I plugged in everything I don't know why it won't work.

ASUS P5KC motherboard
Intel core 2 duo processor 2.66ghz
EVGA 8600GT
2gb corsair DDR2 RAM
If the HDD had an existing install of XP on it it doesn't have the drivers for the card to work properly...

You may get lucky with a repair install of XP.

Repair Install of XP

I suggest reading it thru to get familiar with the procedure first and printing out a copy for reference.
If you have not done so yet i recommend hooking up the drive as a slave in a working machine and making a backup of all your data...I see, but it looks like the PCI card is working because it shows up in the bios and the card detects the harddrives hooked up to it. I tried hooking up my old harddrive to it, because it had windows 98 but it, FAILED to load because of not enough memory even though I have 2gb. I'll try to install the drivers and see what happens. Thanks./The BIOS doesn't need drivers to detect a device. The OS does though.

Hi friends,
I bought a new ATX power supply for my PC and after connecting it the PC was not working properly.It will restart at random and at last it refused completely to boot up.When I checked the PSU ,it was found that there were no connction to the 18th pin (as learned from some sources,the -5 V DC ) of the unit.It was missing at time of manufacturing.My doubt: is this 18 th pin is not necessary for the PC to work? Could its absence damage my mother board?

Please help me....The quote is extracted from here..

"Some of the voltage lines on the connector may have smaller sense wires which ALLOW the power supply to sense what voltage is actually seen by the motherboard. These are pretty common on the 3.3 volt line in pin 11 but are sometimes used for other voltages too. The -5 volt line on pin 18 was made optional in ATX12V 1.3 (introduced in 2003) because -5 had been rarely used for years. Newer motherboards virtually never require -5 volts but many older motherboards do. Most newer power supplies don't provide -5 volts in which case the white wire is missing."

Good luck

without the information regarding the computer make and model and any or all components motherboard/cpu/ram/hard drives/ the operating system etc as well as the make model of the older psu and the make model of the replacement it makes it very difficult for any of us to give you any guidence on your problem and how to resolve it.Thanks a lot for attending my problem
My spec is
Intel D845 GVSR Mobo(AMI BIOS)
P IV 2.4 Ghz CPU
Hynix RAM DDR 333 256 MB x 2
Samsung 80 GB HDD
OS Win XP Pro

Old PSU was ATX 400W Intex
New PSU is ATX 400W frontech

I put it to a bare minimum with the Processor and One RAM only but no avail.If even the one RAM stick is also removed, it will beep 3 times.If the ram is reinstalled, no beep,and a black screen only.The CPU fan is working.I am not familiar with the frontech brand...
Not exactly a name that inspires confidence.
They are probably Far East manufactured PSU's labeled for sale overseas.
For a decent 400W psu you can expect to pay around 40 to 50 bucks but it is well worth it.
I've seen brand new Far East PSU's have problems out of the box and a few that were completely dead.

Consider this ...with the cost of all the components inside your PC the PSU is probably one of the most important parts...don't skimp on it when purchasing.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817170017

prove Patio wrong !!!!


lolBeen USING one of these for about 9 months and very pleased with it: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817104953

Much better user reviews (see newegg.com) than the one honvetops posted. Quote from: honvetops on September 01, 2007, 09:02:15 AM

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817170017

prove Patio wrong !!!!


lol

I am in a pity if my PC is dead or it can,t get steady at all.
Its Spec is:PIV 2.6 Ghz,Intel D865 GBF DDR 333 512 RAM,Samsung HDD 80 GB,USB mouse,PS/2 KB,Win XP PRofessional OS

It has reached gradually to a state of full black screen.Now I can,t even enter the BIOS too.First it was random restarts and some restarts reached only upto the mother board logo display and it freezed.The monitor and power supply & RAM are tested OK in another working PC.

I put it to a bare minimum of motherboard,CPU and RAM with Keyboard only connected but no avail.The KB LIGHTS are flashing ones the powre is switched on.The cpu fan is turning well.The monitor LED is blinking as if there are no signal to it.
I removed even the RAM stick and then there are 3 beeps.If the RAM is reinstated, there are no beeps.I found that there is no thermal grease above the processor.Could it cause such no display problem?The Board is directly connected to the metal stand-offs.Is there any need of insulating material to avoid contact withe the case?

I have little knowledge with PC troubleshooting.I can,t help suspecting anything to a MOBO short,onboard VIDEO failure,processor malfunction etc.
I cant just understand upto what part of BOOTING my PC is going faultless.Or is it not able to just move from the starting point with MAJOR components FRIED?

Thanks in advance for any help!The minimum should be
MBoard
1 stick of RAM
CPU and fan
Video Card (if no onboard video)
PSU
Keyboard and Mouse.

If there is no thermal paste you need to do that first before you proceed. You risk frying the CPU.
Travel to Arctic Silvers site for excellent instructions on this procedure.

After applying the compound make sure the heatsink/fan combo are seated firmly...


Re-boot and let us know the results.

p.s. Double check all your PSU connections as well.Thanks Patio

I connected all as suggested by you.Applied thermal paste.No better results.If I connect CD drive and insert a disk,it is being spun as if being read from it.The HDD if connected shows its LED active for sometime at random intervals.The key board lights are flashing at first but not lit thereafter.I am eager to hear that famous 'beeps' that a faulty PC make but there are none!!!

Any suggestions?This is a puzzler...it seems you have taken the proper diagnostic steps here so far...
2 things you could try that won't cost much:
1) Replace the CMOS battery on the MBoard ( i doubt it's this but try anyway)
2) Borrow a known good PSU of the same wattage or greater and swap it in there...i know you stated yours worked in another machine however this may not prove yours had sufficient power for things to operate properly...

Whose MBoard is this and how old is it ? ?

Last resort would be to remove it from the case and do a bench test. To do this place the MBoard on a rubber mat...or use cardboard and hook up only the components i listed above and see.

p.s. I have seen these symptoms because a CD/HDD screw had been loose and dropped under the MBoard causing an intermittent short. Not saying this is your scenario but just explaining the logic behind removing the MBoard from the case...

Quote from: Calum on August 30, 2007, 04:42:16 AM

You know, I saved up for my computer through a paper round (or 3).
Plus birthday money, CHRISTMAS money, and various odd jobs.

well, lol, if you are good with computers, people in general can use your help. Not to mention that it pays great. I mean, I am only 14 myself (yay, I am not the only kid on the forums xD), and just a week or 2 ago I got $100 for fixing some dude's wireless network (easy fix, stupid propriety wireless card management issues) and getting his universal remote to actually work.

I mean, the jobs are few and far between so far, but they pay very well.

Hello friends,
I have a Maxtor 40 GB IDE HDisk i bought it 6 YEARS ago i used as slave suddenly stoped working, the computer is not detecting i took it out tried in a another computer as Master and Slave changed the jumbers not responding. Is there anyone can give me directions how can i get my information back from this HD or make this thing working again?

sharifGo to Maxtor's web site and download the manufacturers utilities. Test the drive using these utilities.Can you give me please more explanation in a easy way. How can i download from maxtor website? i tried to locate manufacturers utilities but no success, can i reinstall the hard disk back to my pc as slave like before and go to the website and download, i need more clarifications.

SHARIF
thanks,Seagate bought out Maxtor, so Seatools has replaced the Maxtor diagnostics software. Click here to download seatools (for DOS or Windows)i had the Seatool downloaded but the computer is not detecting this HDisk and that is the problem the pc stops booting just freeze not going further when i remove the HDD the computer boots normal. i went through the Bois or Setup not detecting there either just freezes too, if you folks have other ideas let me know.

thanksIf the drive is not correctly recognized in the BIOS, all bets are off. All hard drives fail eventually and data recovery is very expensive, if it can be done at all.

If it is hooked up correctly as a slave and is not seen, unless you are wealthy you can PROBABLY kiss the data goodbye.Yeah i did hooked up correctly and the bois can not recongnized i guess that thing is gone, sure i lost all my data.
thanks folks,

sharifDid you try to reformat the drive or repair it ? using the windows CD all your data will probably be lost either way but you may be able to save the drive and still use it...I am doing it now lol with the same exact drives a 40 gig Maxtor there real pieces of work aren't they ? lolQuote from: Rooster on August 24, 2007, 07:33:30 AM

Did you try to reformat the drive or repair it ? using the windows CD all your data will probably be lost either way but you may be able to save the drive and still use it...I am doing it now lol with the same exact drives a 40 gig Maxtor there real pieces of work aren't they ? lol

I have a Maxtor 40 GB IDE HDisk i bought it 6 years ago

should understand the question first before you open that yapper eh?

Myself and a few others have the Microsoft LIFECAM V 1.10.148.0
When the CAM is running it constantly beeps ( not through the internal speaker as an error BEEP ) but through the speakers or headphones. I contacted Microsoft who's SUPPORT is usless with this issue and can only tell me to update drivers. This does not fix the issue, has anyone else come accross this problem and has a fix for it ?

Thanks...were u not at the timeQuote from: seanbond on August 25, 2007, 03:53:41 AM

were u not at the time

After starting my computer, the scrren said loading personal settings and then after that my desktop items failed to appear. All that shows is the blue screen. Any ideas about what to do? Thanks
My computer is a Dell dimension 210 desktop PC. No message appeared. After the screen shows loading personal settings, instead of my desktop appearing with all the icons, the screen is completely blue with nothing on it. I have TRIED twice shutting it down and starting over, but the same thing happens. Any ideas?Post the error message and alot more info on your machine, OS etc. and someone will be along shortly...try to disconnnect external peripherals (PRINTER, scanner, etc) then restart system. during restart when you see the dell splash screen IMMEDIATELY tap F8 key repeatedly (every half SECOND) until you see the windows advance boot OPTION. select last known good configuration.

Hello.

I have been using a 120GB I-O DATA portable external HARD drive, model HDP-U120.

It has been working fine until YESTERDAY when it suddenly ceased to be recognized by my computer. The computer does not auto-read my drive and it does not appear in My Computer, device manager, disk management or safe hardware removal.

Other USB devices work fine on that same port so I do not think it is a problem with my computer USB port. Changing the USB cable does not solve the problem so it isn't the cable either. The drive requires no external power source other than the USB cable so its not a problem with the power.

The hard drive also fails to be recognized on other computers as well so the problem must be with the hard drive itself, but whenever I plug it in, the power lamp LIGHTS up and I hear the motor running, therefore it's probably not a hardware problem.

I have no clue what happened to my external hard drive and I am desperate in trying to have it recognized by any computer in order to obtain my important data in it. Please give me advice on what I could possibly do to FIX this problem. Thankyou.What OS do you have?
Is there any software that came with the External HD?

I'm afraid if it is the HD itself that we won't be able to help you.
Then I would advice you to go to the place where you bought the HD and ask for help.

Jonas Try REINSTALLING the software if it came with any, boot up in safe mode see if it is there !

Hello, I recently ruined my F lock key by SPILLING something on it.

The key no longer responds when pushed, and in the keyboard configuration it states its status as "unknown". As if it doesn't even exist anymore.

I need the F lock key to be on at all TIMES, and it's default SEEMS to be SET to off when the keyboard powers up.. very inconvenient to say the least..

My question is, is there any way to somehow manipulate the keyboard without pressing the key (as I can't) to force the F lock key on? Even if only temporarily?

Thanks to anyone who can help.. There was a free program called F-Lock Utility that did what you want, but it doesn't appear to be available at the moment. The site has exceeded its monthy bandwidth quota; perhaps it will be back up after the end of the month.

You can take a look here and see if it helps you at all...
http://jtsang.mvps.org/flock.html

You could also try cleaning your keyboard very thoroughly. If none of the above WORKS, you might as well just replace it.

Oh god. My computer resolution and color are totally messed up. When I go to control panel and try and change my color and resolution all I can pick is lowest (8-bit) it's the only option i have... and my computer's had alot
better... I can't do System Restore because I guess it wasn't on. I think it's
running on Palettized mode. My computer says that's what it's running on when I try and open one of my programs. It says that it needs true color mode, at least 16-bit or 24 bit... Please can anyone help me?

I've got a gateway computer, pentium 4, 128-256 ram, high SPEED internet, Windows xp...
Start>Settings>Control Panel>System>Hardware>Device Manager...
Check your drivers.Umm, disk drives, I got one... I click on it it says it's running properly, i try troubleshooting but nothing happens when i click it... anything else I should do or check?Check your Display Adapter Drivers.It says the device is running properly are u using onboard graphic?try reinstall it.Is it a laptop or desktop computer?

How old is the laptop/Monitor?The moniter is a LCD, and it's my third moniter. Probably within 1-2 years old this one. It's a desktop computer... I don't know a whole lot about computer stuff when it gets into the deep stuff.. like example what i WOULD do to reinstall the onboard graphic.. or if i even have one...The last thing i remember that might have been the cause is maybe when a window popped up and was like are u sure u want use these new settings? (when i didn't do anything) put in "the" cd to use old settings or press ok for new, pressing ok might have u loose some data...
and so i was like what cd? and it's popped up before in the past and i just click ok because there's no way of getting out of that little pop up... the question wasn't exactly like that, but somewhere along those lines....Download, unzip, install and run Everest Home Edition
Everest

Select Computer>Summary from the left hand screen.
Right click in the right hand screen & select Copy All
Paste the details in here.FieldValue

Computer
Operating SystemMicrosoft Windows XP Professional
OS Service PackService PACK 2
DirectX4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Computer NameKRAZYKOMPUTAH (This *censored*!)
User Nameadministator

Motherboard
CPU TypeIntel Pentium 4, 2400 MHz (18 x 133)
Motherboard NameIntel Rexburg D845GRG (3 PCI, 1 AGP, 2 DIMM, Audio, Video)
Motherboard ChipsetIntel Brookdale-G i845G
System Memory512 MB (PC2100 DDR SDRAM)
BIOS TypeAMI (08/17/02)
Communication PortCommunications Port (COM1)
Communication PortECP Printer Port (LPT1)

Display
Video AdapterNVIDIA GeForce4 MX 440 (Gateway) (128 MB)
3D AcceleratornVIDIA GeForce4 MX 440
MonitorViewSonic VP171s-2 [NoDB] (PJJ0522A1003)

Multimedia
Audio AdapterCreative SB PCI128 (Ensoniq ES1371) Sound Card
Audio AdapterIntel 82801DB ICH4 - AC'97 Audio Controller [A-1]

Storage
IDE ControllerIntel(R) 82801DB Ultra ATA Storage Controller - 24CB
Floppy DriveFloppy disk drive
Disk DriveST380021A (80 GB, 7200 RPM, Ultra-ATA/100)
Optical DriveHL-DT-ST DVD-ROM GDR8160B (16x/48x DVD-ROM)
Optical DriveLITE-ON LTR-40125S (40x/12x/48x CD-RW)
SMART Hard Disks StatusOK

Partitions
C: (NTFS)76316 MB (11999 MB free)

Input
KeyboardStandard 101/102-Key or Microsoft Natural PS/2 Keyboard
MouseLogitech USB WheelMouse

Network
Network AdapterIntel(R) PRO/100 VE Network Connection (24.76.125.64)
ModemGTW V.92 Voicemodem

Peripherals
PrinterCanon Bubble-Jet BJC-4100
PrinterMicrosoft Office Document Image Writer
USB1 ControllerIntel 82801DB ICH4 - USB Controller [A-1]
USB1 ControllerIntel 82801DB ICH4 - USB Controller [A-1]
USB1 ControllerIntel 82801DB ICH4 - USB Controller [A-1]
USB2 ControllerIntel 82801DB ICH4 - Enhanced USB2 Controller [A-1]
USB DeviceIntel(r) PC Camera CS110 #2
USB DeviceLogitech USB WheelMouse
NVIDIA GeForce4 MX 440 (Gateway) (128 MB)

Armed with the above info go to the nvidia website, download and install the latest drivers.
http://www.nvidia.com/page/home.html
You will have to navigate through the 3 boxes and keep your eyes open for removal directions for the old drivers.
(The disk it was asking you for was probably the xp disk.)IT'S FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! YESSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!! THANK YOU EVERYONE AND ANYONE WHO HELPED ME, YOU GUYS RULE I'M BACK TO NORMAL!! W000T! THANK YOU!!!!

I WANT to upgrade my graphics CARD. How do I determine if I have these SLOTS? I have a DELL inspiron 2200.Is it a LAPTOP? If so you can't upgrade. sorryYes, it is a laptop.

I'm currently RUNNING windows xp and I've noticed something about my ram. My computer comes with 256 megs of ram but when I check on it using a RAM usage moniter it says that I have 192 (or something like that). I know I have 256 because i've checked in side my pc and it on the ram unit it says 256 mb. Someone help please. I would like to free up that ram!thats normal..... you can't free it up because its being utilized.....

If you were to add a 512M STICK of RAM to that machine; XP, your machine and you would be much happier...QUOTE from: honvetops on August 22, 2007, 01:46:12 PM

thats normal..... you can't free it up because its being utilized.....

Hey all I am a gamer which I use my laptop to play games on but my laptop overheats in 10 minutes up to 71 Degrees Celius and the peak is 81. Is there a product that can lower the tempurture? I was looking at the Tragus laptop thing...A laptop cooler should be beneficial.Clean out the fans with a can of compressed air. Keep the laptop on a flat surface and make SURE all the vents aren't blocked. Try putting something under the corners of the laptop, like erasers or something, so that there is more CLEARANCE between the desk and the laptop. If it's still too hot get like ONE of those "laptop cooling pads" or whatever they're called. Its like a board with fans in it that you put under the laptop. You can usually FIND it one at a computer store, they cost around $30.Sweet, thanks for your input/post I SEARCHED around the Web to look for the laptop coolers and I found a few and the idea of putting erasers under my laptop worked pretty good too (Lowered temp by 5-8 degrees)

my desktop is under construction but i can not find RAM 533 DDR2 1 gb, every store I asked for this specs are not available but only DDR2 667.this does not MATCHED with my processor coz its just 800fsb. what if i use 2x512 with 533 mhz,since its 2 will it not double the speed? i mean will it not become 1066(533x2)?or it will take the same speed mhz?.help pls. i WANT to complete it now,this is the only lacking component.tnx to the group.

gross_earnings This ram module is somewhat HARD to find, your RIGHT *
Here's one set (2 x 512) kinda high priced but nice ram..........

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820144176go to novatech.co.uksee, this is a reason this forum sucks in the way that members / can't give any decent answers on occasions when we try cause where in the *censored* do you freakin live &GT; ?



every members pro should at least show the *censored* country!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


i personally don't want to be talking to some middl never mind* too many libs around here

I bought an ECS 915PL-A2 SOCKET 775 Motherboard which came with sata ports. so I bought a sata HARD drive and a sata power SUPPLY so go with it. The hard drive arrived non sata so I returned it and am waiting for the right one. But the power supply did arrive and it has a wide sata plug but the motherboard has only 4 short sata ports.

I imagine what I need is a sata adapter, but is there such a thing? I need to adapt a short port into a long port.

Sandy EHH what?
The sata plugs coming from the power supply aren't supposed to fit in the sata ports on the motherboard. You plug them in to the back of the hard drive along with a sata data cable. It is the data cable that fits in the plugs on your motherboard.

Im going to buy a laptop before September but Im really confused which one to buy, I never had a laptop before and so I have no idea which to buy, I will be starting my study next month as computer programing, I also like gaming, not much though. Doesnt matter the price, I need something good.
so any ideas would be appreciated.

ThanksIt really depends on what you're going to do with that laptop....
Are you going to use it for games or as a home computer or just something for writing word documents?

For example, for a gaming laptop, you will need a pretty good monitor and cooling system, a lot of RAM and HD space, dual core +2 GHz processor...

For a computer used for surfing the net and word processing, you won't need as much RAM, HD space, thus saving a lot of money.I would like to use it for all that you mentioned, I'm moving to a small apartment and so I dont want to have a laptop and a desktop, so which one would you recommend?

Thanks for replyingGet a desktop if you don't need the mobility.
They're cheaper, easier to maintain and upgrade, more resilient, and less likely to go wrong.
My advice as a general guide is a large HDD (say 160Gb or more), a Core 2 Duo CPU, at least 1Gb of RAM, a GeForce 7600 class card or better, a nice monitor (say 19"), a good MOUSE and mousepad, and also a good keyboard (never underestimate the importance of these). Finally, get a DVDRW drive, or two, and any other EXTRAS you may want.
Most manufacturers will offer a PC close to this specification if you shop around and customize, or you can build your own.
Hope this helps.I need to buy a laptop... so which one do you think is the best? for everything useWithout some budget #'s here we could be recommending 60 or 70 machines...

Let's start there to try and narrow it down somewhat.Ummm... I can spend up to $ 2000 on thisWhat currency is the $2,000.00 in?

2,000 is sure a lot different from "... Doesn't matter the price, ..."OH MY GOD... I feel so frustrated on this forum, why is it so hard to just tell which laptop is the best to buy, you guys keep on looming around.. how lame!!!!!!!!I don't know what 'looming' is but I don't think it sounds nice.........

As you said in your third post, you wanted to use your laptop as normal computer like a desktop computer.
Get what Calum suggested, except in laptop form...

Good HD space, good graphic card, good amount of RAM...

Desktop computer would be cheaper, and have a better cooling system if you're going to use it a lot.Okay buy this----->Click-Me-BuyThis


Take the rest of the money and get a good desktop gaming
computer.

Sure glad I only went to the 8th grade....LOL

By the way the laptop want take up any ROOM anyway so....COL!

The only lame person on this forum is PeckerWood.
He is a really dumba$$ed woodpecker.Tronic, first you said you would get either a desktop or laptop, and you had no fixed budget.
Now you want a laptop for $2000 or less - I still strongly advise buying a desktop instead.
If you GAVE us some more info, like what currency this $2000 would be in, it would be very helpful.
It's impossible to tell you what laptop is "best" without a budget - otherwise there are literally thousands of possible configurations available that will suit your needs and we could recommend all of them, except they would range from around $800 to $10000.
If you would co-operate, it would be a lot easier. This could have been SOLVED four days ago if you had answered our questions.

And about your attitude . . . calling people trying to help lame will not help anybody at all - if you don't like this forum, feel free to go somewhere else, I'm sure you'll get a good reception with your understanding and helpful attitude.In addition to what Calum just said...

You're welcome...

heya, im new here so hello.

Also a quick question.

I bought a midi KEYBOARD about 9 years ago (i know a very long time lol). It came with software called evolution triple software pack v1.01 and the keyboard is an evolution MK-149.

Here comes the tricky bit (in trying to explain it). I recently bought a new computer. I've been told that the software will work fine with the computer. The problem is the cable. It has a circular 5 pin connector that goes into the keyboard itself (which says midi out, there is no midi in). The other end of the cable is one of those rectangular connections with loads of pins that has screw's either side. The problem is i no longer have a socket at the back of my pc for this connection.

I've been googling for a bit and found midi-usb connectors. All these connectors SEEM to have two of the 5 pin connections, one for input and one for output, with the whole thing being a y shaped LEAD. Is this LIKELY to work?

Thing is i would just buy a new one but i really like this keyboard, ive had it years and i know the software really well etc.

Thanks for any advice in advance

i have this problem that recently occurred. my speakers are blaring high pitch tones. whenever any sound COMES out, it is accompanied by this high pitch tone. its pretty hard to explain. there might be something wrong with the sound card but i've tried re-installing it and it didnt work.

i happened when i restarted my pc after installing my SCANNER driver. i dont know what that has to do with the speakers but that is when it started.

im running a WINDOW xp sp2, 1.5g ram, intel 3.0 ht, sigmatel sound driver.

i hope someone can help me out. thanks so much.

rick.Everything goes wrong at some time. It could be a coincidence or maybe not that the speakers started playing up around the time you installed your scanner.

The first thing i would check is that all the LEADS are SECURELY plugged in.

The second thing i would do is move the new scanner as far away from the speakers as possible. It could be the scanner is giving off a low level electromagnetic field and causing interference with the speakers. Try turning off the power to the scanner altogether even and see what this does.

If this doesn't do it see if you can borrow a set of working speakers from someone to see if they give off a whining noise and try your speakers on their computer. This will tell you if it is your speakers or the sound card.maybe you have some software that can alter the pitch and give effects.. i used to have one. it may be doing it's thing and you don't even know it.

I tried rebooting drive and after initial splash showing XP, bios and then opetion to F2 or F12, the montor goes blank with a single cursor flicker then nothing. CTR-alt-del brings me back to splash page then I can go to system SETUP, and have also raqn diagnostics. I get harddrive info and statistices etc...then it SAYS bad sector at )11221111xxxx) the says in cannot go further.
Question: can I repair and save my data? 2. if I reformat or ru the XP installation CD will that corect it (plus erase the data?)

Next, I have an exact model computer (Dell Optiplex) and it is working fine. I took the harddrive out of that machine replacing harddrive on the above presumed bad drive PC and the system now boots up and go to the username password page.

NOw get this....the admin passwords are exactly the same for both machines and harddrvies. Yet when I get to the password it doesn't recognize it!!

What gives!!!!! is ther a way to remove the password through the system startup or dos?

Thanks and I aplogize for the lengthy post!! Welcome to the CH forums.

It surprises me that folks who use passwords do not have password recovery\deletion software to hand for when passwords go belly up.

Here is one site which claims its PROGRAM will recover/delete passwords, there are many more.

Note: I have not tried this program so cannot comment on its efficiency.

If you can get one of your systems to perform then run CHKDSK /F on the defective drive. This may give you time to recover files with minimal loss but be aware that your hdd is dying and think about replacement.

Good luck.Thank you Dusty,

I will look into the password recovery program you suggest. And I will purchase a NEW HD ASAP!

I recently purchased a sager laptop with a TV Tuner card built in. It already has a splitter built in too but I tried using a splitter too. I plug in my COAXIAL CABLE to my wall, then into the port and all I get is static when I choose Cable Input in Cyberlink POWER Cinema. When I select use antenna it gets 1 channel which is channel 49. I was thinking it is because I don't have cable but I have Direct TV. Does anyone KNOW anything I can do or if I'm doing something wrong. I've hooked it up to my receiver and I got the channel that was being displayed and could record it and stuff but I don't want to have to hook up to my receiver to watch TV.

CAN U PLEASE HELP ME HOW TO RETRIEVE MY FILES FROM DOWNLOADS AND WAS CHANGE TO OTHER FILE NAME?
THANKS

NADINEI'm sorry, can you please repeat the question? Are you asking how to rename a file or SOMETHING?

Also, please TURN Caps Lock OFF. USED the windows search i guess
more info...

I recently moved my PC. I packed it up and set it up again, and connected all my peripherals. Everything WORKS fine except my sound card. Its a Creative Labs Sound Blaster Audigy 2ZS Gamer edition card I bought in 2003. It has never given me any problems. When I booted up after I set up my computer it worked for like 2 minutes then all of a sudden stopped. I reinstalled all the applications and drivers found on Creative's CDs that came with my sound card. I even updated the drivers. The thing is that I dont think it is the card. I can play the sample DVD Audio file that comes up on the splash screen when my PC BOOTS up. When I run dxdiag I can play sound when I hit the "Test Direct Music Option." However, I can't play any direct sounds including cd playback, audio playback, or midi playback.....in short I have no sound at all, not even the system sounds. I tried INSTALLING my motherboard sound drivers...did not fix the PROBLEM. I THINK IT'S A WINDOWS PROBLEM. When I run Control Panel and look at Sounds and Audio Devices everything is grayed out. There are no playback devices listed as default. My sound card is listed under audio devices in the device manager which means the drivers are installed. I can't run Audio HQ. The error message says that I'm missing some audio driver. I can't run any of the SoundBlaster software. When I try to run THX console it says that I have an incompatible sound driver.

DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN FIND THE IN-BOX AUDIO DRIVERS THAT ARE SUPPOSED TO COME WITH WINDOWS? I think mine got corrupted or overwritten somehow. I tried searching microsoft's sites but I have no clue where they are. The only thing I can think of now is upgrading from Home to Professional edition to get the new drivers. HELP ANYONE?

I have 2 hard drive install. My C drive is the master (300GB) and other drive as storage - 200GB (it has files and programs in it - about 150GB USED). I re-installed my Operating System Window XP Prof ( SP1) but it does not assign any letter to my storage drive anymore. It does detect that my computer has 2 hard drives. I did a right-click on My Computer ---> Manage ----> Disk MANAGEMENT, I found 2 drives 0 and 1. 0 is my primary drive (C:) but it d does not have any letter drive assign to 1 which is my storage drive. It "UNALLOCATED". Does anyone knows what's wrong with it and how to fix it? My computer run Windows XP Pro, 1GB RAM, and 3 GHz. All help will be appreciated. Thanks.

I have a DFI NFII 400-AL ATX nForce2 Athlon Motherboard with a Athalon 2200 processor. I did not know much about swapping CPUs, so i did not install or look for updated BIOS. I swapped the 2200 with a Athlon XP3000 processor, witch is supported by my motherboard. When I powered it on, it ran for 1 sec and shutdown with no Beeping noises. Then it wont allow you to turn the PC back on until you pull the power plug for a few seconds and reinsert it. I gave up on the 3000XP CPU and reinserted the 2200 CPU. When I try to power on it will randomly shutdown on its own before windows boots up. I know it has something to do with the CPU swap I so foolishly tried, because the problem started right after i did the swap. Also I try to GET into CMOS settings to check things out, but the PC shuts down before I can take a look. Also there are 2 red lights visible on the motherboard if that helps. Also sometimes before it shuts down it goes through the LIST of processes and it does detect CPU temperature and detects the 2200 processor. I would like to still install the XP3000 processor but if I CANT I don't mind, I just want my PC back up and RUNNING again

some CPU specs:
2200 - http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?InvtId=AXDA2200DKV3C-N
XP300 - http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K7/AMD-Athlon%20XP%203000+%20-%20AXDA3000DKV4D.html

Motherboard Specs: http://www.digiconcepts.com/dfi_motherboards_53.htm

The 2 most common reasons for this symptom are either the CPU heatsink/fan combo are not properly seated or it is shutting down from heat related warnings...did you remember to use thermal paste when you assembled this ? ?
Each time you swap out the CPU you need to carefully clean the paste from the CPU and heatsink and re-apply...
Visit Arctic Silvers website for excellent instructions on the procedure.
http://www.arcticsilver.com/arctic_silver_instructions.htm

and/or

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/274


That'll save you from having to look around.

I have not applied any new thermal paste and the amount it had on it when i removed it was slim to none. I figured I could get away without using any just to see if Windows can at least boot to desktop before it over heats. From what I gather, the CPU does not seem to over heat within the few seconds it stays on. And the temperatures at start up show somewhere around 41C and 98F. But you guys know a heck of a lot more then me, so I suppose I will buy the thermal paste and hope it works again. Thank you WillyW for the thermal paste websites Quote from: ts37 on AUGUST 26, 2007, 06:43:00 PM

... Thank you WillyW for the thermal paste websites

1. I'm running Windows XP on a Pentium 4 with 512 RAM. I'm using NVidia GeForce 6200 with up to date drivers. One of my high end games requires 512 RAM and runs SLOWLY (MedTotal WAr2). Would another stick of memory help with performance?

2. If yes, is the install simply a matter of plugging into an empty slot and rebooting, or is it more involved?

Thank you!
-WadeMore RAM would help, but your graphics card is the limiting FACTOR here.
The 6200 is a very low end card - if you're a gamer, upgrade.
Check the GPU FAQ for more info on current graphics cards.
Installing RAM is just as you describe - just take care and observe ESD precautions INSIDE the case.
One more thing - get the right RAM too.

just a quick question all , when i turned down the FREQENCY the high-picthed sound im getting went away , but my COMPUTER didnt boot , it just went error reading DISK .... and that was the only setting i changed in bios ..... is there a setting i can have it to between 90 to 300 its on 200 , i want to lower it ..... any suggestions ....

Patio i tried what you said and nothing but guess what? WOW!!! so get this lol...... I found my old audio cable for my boston speakers for the analog instead of digital hookup, unhooked digital input plugged in analog boom SOUND, un hook analog put digital bak in and boom SOUND weird stuff.... thanks for helping me out everyone wish i would have tried this sooner. I am sure i will be back for help at some point thanks again.
JokerGood to hear you are fixed up. Stop by anytime.Quote from: toda on August 16, 2007, 05:02:07 PM

Joker08 ~ Your issue stems from SP2 and Windows C-Media Audio '97. This problem is a result of new C-Media driver(s) pushed from SP2 update. To my knowledge MS hasn't resolved their SP 2 C-Media corrupted patch. When you try to uninstall:[right click my computer > Manage > Devices >] do you see any device errors? If not when you uninstall all of your audio devices and reboot the problem still exists. If you can't roll back the driver, the new push from SP 2 reloads and the problem is more frustrating than before because that should have fixed the problem. Inorder to "FIX" the problem you will have to edit the registry. When you go to Control Panel to SOUNDS and audio, are the speaker settings "grayed out"? Do you see Realtek AC97 Audio displayed? If any of this sounds like your issue let me know and I'll give you a registry edit....

I AM TRYING TO BURN A DVD USING WINDOWS MOVIE MAKER THE DISC I HAVE NOW ARE
DVD-RW, DVD+RW
4X 2HR
VIDEOS PHOTOS DATA

IT SAYS THAT I HAVEN'T ENTERED A DISC WHEN I HAVE? I GUESS IT'S NOT READING IT CORRECTLY? I'M HOPING THAT I DON'T HAVE THE RIGHT DVD DISC? DO I NEED TO MAYBE GET ONE THAT HAS VIDEO PHOTOS DATA && AUDIO?!?!

I'VE DONE A PROJECT LIKE THIS BEFORE AND DON'T REMEMBER HAVING TROUBLE. IT MIGHT HAVE BEEN A MAXELL DVD+R- PLEASE HELP.. I'M SO CONFUSED!! AND DESPERATE I HAVE TO HAVE THIS BY TOMORROW!!please find your caps lock key. Posting in all CAPITAL letters on the web is the same as SHOUTING at people and won't get you many replies!

Try another brand of disk.
Or come into the future or buy a Flash Drive...

They are more practical and in a WAY they are cheaper.Quote

I AM TRYING TO BURN A DVD USING WINDOWS MOVIE MAKER

So i got a strong stereo and connected it to my computer. I'm just worried about the effects on that on the screen and mybe hard-disk or cpu... Because i KNOW speakers have a magnet in them... and i'm guessing this one is big.

I noticed as i move the speaker around, the color of the screen from the speaker's side changes a bit towards green.

can anybody clear this thing for me please? thank you.If you want to keep USING those speakers, you should mount them on the wall or find another place to put them so they won't cause any interference.Hi-fi speakers do have strong magnets in them. So do speakers which are meant to be used near computers, but they ALSO have magnetic shielding for the reason you have found, namely that CRT monitors can be affected. CRT TVs as well. As for your hard drive and CPU, forget it. They will be fine.

The answer is, keep the speakers far enough away from the monitor so that they do not affect the colours ("colors" in America). Then everything will be fine. Or buy an LCD monitor, then you can put the speakers where you like.

One more thing -- the magnetic field can erase floppy disks. Not CDs or DVDs. So don't store floppy disks on or near the speakers.




Post a blueprint of your room and the available space including electrical schematics and we'll see what we can come up with.well i can fix the electricity HOWEVER i want so don't worry about that...



and im gonna add 2 more speakers for the rear to have a 5.1. (once i find them lol) would it work? My new 5.1 soundcard has too many inputs. There is Center (black), 1 (green) 2 (orange) --dunno if that means L and R but i dont think so, (red) -- dunno what that is, mic (blue). How do i do this? Have you considered a wall-mount solution ? ?

Ok I tried something else. My FRIEND has a 462 BOARD that he just took out of his old pc, it was working when he took it out. He's selling the parts. This board isn't exactly like the ONE i'm trying, but SIMILAR. So I hooked everything to this board with the board outside the case. And I'm still getting the same THING. Everything appears to be working, but no video. I'm thinking it might actually be the cpu.

I was burning some cds with achool 120 and my cdrom soon after that stoped working. I then decided to check to see if my cdrom was broken I took it out and tryed it in my other computer and it worked just FINE but it just dosnt WORK on this ONE. I have tryed reinstalling windows checked the bios to make sure it was picking up the correct device and it was. I dont know this has got me stumped a little bit. I tryed pulling out all the ram and starting my computer then putting it all back in reseting the coms notheing works. any one have any ideas about what I can do to fix it. I have also tryed with 6 other cdroms with the same results.Have you tried replacing the ribbon (?) cable

Yes I have changed out the ribbon cables but with the same results I managed to get my cdrom to work once after that. I reinstalled the driver for it and then it worked fine for one CD then it started doing the same thing over agin. So I ran a few scans looking for spyware rootkits and viruses. The only thing I have found was that the partition table has been altered.How long was it in the other machine ? ?
Did you attempt to burn ANYTHING with it while it was in there ? ?it was in there for a few hrs and I burned a Gentoo cd along with 4 other games.Re-install Alcohol...in the computer that is...

1. This MAY be a stupid question to most, but i cant FIGURE out what kind of mobo my pc has. The only thing i havn't tried is looking in my bios, which is probably where it is, im just to lazy to check right now.

2. I plan on upgrading my GPU soon and i was wondering if i would need to up my power supply. I'm running vista 32bit, Intel Pentium D 2.8ghz processors, 3gb RAM, currently an nVidia 6200 gpu, 223 gb HDD. If i didnt INCLUDE something of importance, let me know. I've been to a couple of sites that CALCULATE CURRENT power usage, and would be power usage. Dont know enough info to utilize the calc.

ThanksDLoad and install Everest Home...