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my sisters computer was playing games on pogo just fine until I employed the following: 1. went from ie7 to IE8
                 2. downloaded "foxit" because adobe would not work
                 3. downloaded powerpoint 2007 because her microsoft office was not reading PPS
                 4. read that quicktime did not have to be on s/up so i RIGHT clicked on it and it vanished , so i redownloaded it


when i PLAY the game it will not download and java error messages show up.
java lang out of memory error: requested 81920 bytes for GrET in
C:\BUILD_AREA|jdk6_14\hotspot\src\share\vm\utilities\growableArray.cpp. out of swap space?  and a second message:
EXCEPTION_ACCESS_VIOLATION (0xc0000005) at pc=0x6d8ec2d3, pid=3980. tid=1456.
processor 631 capacity 9.49gb free 5.03gb total memory 256 available 87.54

I turn the power on, SCREEN shows the initial Intel screen, then the screen remains black.

Thats really all there is to it, any ideas to get it running?Check your monitor connections...if no joy joy post back with a bunch more info on this machine and what OS...Checked that this morning and everything is good. The first intel screen shows so I know its not the monitor.

I am running WINDOWS XP professional, the computer is a Antec. Any other info needed?How old is the computer?  What kind of motherboard do you have?  How much memory?  One hard drive or two?  Have you installed any new programs recently?  Does the computer stay on or does it continually restart? Might be overheating. Clean out the heatsinks. DON'T use a vacuum.Tried Safe Mode? Quote from: french253 on September 16, 2008, 06:09:56 PM

How old is the computer?  What kind of motherboard do you have?  How much memory?  One hard drive or two?  Have you installed any new programs recently?  Does the computer stay on or does it continually restart?

First, I just want to say that if this is in the WRONG BOARD, I'm SORRY.  I'm not really sure if the problem is with my Windows or the drivers or hardware or whatnot so I'm putting this here. Like I said, if it's in the wrong spot, I'm sorry.

Ok, my OS is Windows XP and my D: drive is a DVD/CD-RW. A few months ago I uploaded some video from a family reunion from a memory card. I'm not really sure what kind of disks I would need. But about a month ago I bought some DVD-RW disks, but those didn't seem to work. Then someone told me I should get CD-R disks, but when I was prompted to put that disk in, it said there was no disk in the drive. Did I get the wrong disks again? If you need to know anymore about my computer to help, let me know. I'm still kinda new at this. And thanks to anyone that can help.

Oh, I have Nero OEM Suite on my computer, if that helps too.I'm pretty new to this to, so i'd like some comfirmation from a guru, but it SOUNDS like you've got a DVD player and not a writer. Your CD-RW is a writer, you need to right click on the icon goto to properties click on 'recording' then click on 'enable CD to record' this will help you to record using your CD-R disks.

I'll just RUN through again...

Goto My computer right click on your DVD/CD-RW icon and click on Properties then click on Recording then tick the box that says Enable CD recording on this drive and see if that works

Let me know how youve gone onI went to where you said, but when I came to the Enable CD recording on this drive box, it was already checked.

Thanks for trying to help me though
Instead of using Nero can you go to the folder where your video is and in the left-hand panel it should say Copy all items to cd click on this and follow the prompts.

Good Luck.

HELP:  NOTHING happens when I CLICK on my Internet Options icon. I cannot load Java or Google without it. Need...more...info...gasp 

Operating system / antivirus & antispyware protection / service packs installed / when did it start happening / did it ever work right / installed any new software?

Alan &LT;&GT;<  i fail to see why you need it to load java or goggle , you could take internet explorer back to factory settings ,

 and you will loose nothing from your pc Quote from: RbChu6 on JUNE 17, 2009, 12:20:56 AM

Nothing happens when I click on my Internet Options icon

I cannot load Java or Google without it.

My XP was dead and I booted it using a 2000 BOOT disc sucessfully.  I want to get back those FILES in my document in the C harddrive but I can only acces those files not stored under my document in C:  I got "access DENIED" MESSAGE when I click on the my document folder.  Is there anyway to resolve it.
 Try taking ownership of the My Docs folder...  See this..

GOOGLE 'take ownership of folders and files' for more info..

Good luck

*censored*, here we go again!
Don't NORMALLY go into "All PROGRAMS" menu via the Start Button, but I'm SURE it listed all of the programs installed, because now it's showing only the programs that have shortcut icons installed on the desktop.
Is this RIGHT or am l going TOTALLY doolally?

I've run into a problem and have no idea where to even start.

Just worked on getting rid of malware on my computer(thanks guys), and was working on INSTALLING Avast antivirus free home edition after deleting Norton.  My computer froze up and upon restart, Windows XP was loading, got to the part where it says welcome on the screen, then the whole thing turns blank with a blue background and I can't do anything.  Tried cntrl+alt+del a bunch of time but got nothing, can't right or left mouse click, and if I shut completely down, it just does the same thing. 

Any ideas?Try booting into safe mode.I'm not sure how to do that, can you tell me how?  And after I do, then what do I do?Tap F8 repeatedly after powering up and before you see the XP splash screen...
Re-install Avast.I have exactly the same problem, after doing the scan with avast, I have read so many different sites' blogs about this same problem and tried many different things, but nothing seems to work.  Somebody mentioned spending hours on this PROBLEMS, well if I don't get something fixed tonight it will be days.

To be honest I can only sometimes get the task bar up after re-boot...  1 out of 5-8 tries, so I really don't want to re-boot again, unless someone can a definate idea about how to fix this prob.  I am worried that my computer will crash for good.

Reading the Avast site something like 2500 views on this issue of blank blue screen.  I'm sure it has something to do with an internal bug in their program.

Can someone who has successfully overcome this problem, explain how to fix it?

Please.

JakeHi
I would just like to give you a big thank you mate along with evilfantasy.
I had a similar problem to you and evil helped me remove all the malware and crap
on my PC but I was STILL getting the blue screen.
When I read your POST I decided to UNINSTALL Avast in safe mode.
Restarted the computer hey presto I cons back and functioning laptop.
Thank you very much
I hope you solve your problem also.

I am running Windows XP Pro., and AVG anti spyware pro., Superantispyware Pro, Advanced Window Care 2 Pro., Malwarebytes Pro.  NONE of my primary anti spyware finds this Suspicious Entry when I scan.  (I know that with anti spyware software usually one will always find what the others missed).

Download loaded Spy Cleaner Gold 9.5 just to see if the program performs as claimed. (Evaluation only).  Upon completion of the scan below suspicious entry was found in my registry.  The word ¨Suspicious¨, concerns me, as English is not my primary language. 

After a search of the suspicious dll, on the www I am more confused as to the value is a necessary value for Windows NT and is and important dll in Microsoft Windows XP Pro., log on or is a Trojan.

Please advise do I leave this entry as is??, or do I delete the entry in my registry.

Suspicious Entries
Item Type  : Registry Key Value
Key Path   : HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\software\microsoft\windows nt\currentversion\windows
Key Value  : appinit_dlls

Thanks in advance,

Mind DoctorAccording to my sources Spy Cleaner was once listed as a rogue app...that is one that reports false positives to induce a user to buy their protection app to clean out what may or may not even be there...
I would personally not put much credence in whatever it reports is wrong with your machine...http://www.siteadvisor.com/sites/spycleaner.net?ref=safesearch&client_ver=FF_26.6_6275&locale=en-US&premium=false&aff_id=0

This site represents one of many sites run by the same person that also runs dozens of clones of dubious download sites known as topdownloads.net. On the site, it says "if you are choosing Anti-Spyware make sure you choose one that is proven and has genuine awards from one or more world leading research labs such a PC Magazine, PC World, CNET, PC Pro Magazine, PC Authority, PC Answers and other trusted labs."

That's good advice - which this sites ignores. The site says spycleaner:

"continues to be awarded the HIGHEST honors by many of the worlds leading PC publications such as PC Pro, PC Plus, PC Authority, PC Utilities, PC Advisor, PC Choice, Microdatorn, PC Answers Magazine plus number of reputable 5-STAR ratings including CNET's Download.com."

The site owner, Leo van Opstal, isn't very creative with his bogus claims. The above quote was copied, WORD FOR WORD, from the PC Tools web site. He simply substituted "Spycleaner" in place of "Spyware Doctor" and left Tucows off the end. See for yourself here:

http://www.pctools.com/spyware-doctor/

A search of these web sites reveals very little about SpyCleaner Platinum. There are NO AWARDS. PC World lists the software in the download section of its site. In spite of it having been there for over two years, nobody has reviewed it and it has been downloaded a mere 1,868 times. On Download.com, three of the five user reviews gave SpyCleaner one star out of five. One of those reviewers simply said "don't waste your money." On other sites, there were NO reviews by the editorial staff and no awards.

Other ridiculous claims abound, like "used by millions world wide" and "has been downloaded over 100 million times." Yet, further up the home page it says "Downloads: 15,123,456." OOPS! That's about eighty-five million short of 100 million. Both numbers are fiction.

Would you like to know more about who you are buying this dubious software from? Forget about it - there is no contact information WHATSOEVER - no postal address or phone number. Links for FAQ, forums and support all take you to the same login page at supportdesk.bz - not exactly informative. There is also a "free downloads" link that takes you to topdownloads.net, which has proven to be a source of adware in the past and is rated RED by SiteAdvisor.

This program continues to be listed as rogue software on spywarewarrior.com for having bundled WhenU adware in the past. While there doesn't appear to be any evidence of bundled adware at present (based on a scan by VirusTotal), the promotion of software based on unsubstantiated claims along with a complete lack of contact information is certainly compatible with the description "rogue." All of this makes a Bad Shopping Experience very likely.

I have WIN xp pro and I wanted to know how to CHECK to see if I have all my UPDATES?

I know I can GO into Controle Pannle and then go into Windows Security Center.

And from there just click on Updates and it will connect to the net  and bring up a window that you click on that says Update.

But I never know witch TAB to click on. There are two or three that say  diferant things.

 Can anyone tell me what I have to do or click onhttp://update.microsoft.com

JJ 3000 I love westoms' claim that they "replaced every semiconductor" in every computer.

Evidently the man has no clue of the construction of a computer's MoBo, power supply, drives, etc. aside from the old wooden ones with a metal wire and little wooden balls.

But hey, a computer is a computer, right? Quote from: Gizmologist on June 16, 2009, 10:47:42 PM

Funny how he does not disagree with anything said about surge suppression at all levels.

If the device creates surges, why don't you just unplug it, and run it from those surges. …

But what often happens with cheap supplies is that they are simply made to route the Power Good signal from the +5 volt rail. Now, the problem here is that the POWER_GOOD signal as far as the motherboard is concerned, is fine for a variantion  from +2.4V through +6.0V. By the time the +5V rail gets that distorted, it's too late.

This could result in either permanent hardware damage,

depends on the hardware. Take the typical, manufacturer made PC, with a excessively cheaply made power supply that sends POWER_GOOD without actually checking to see that the power is good for the motherboard. (this is far too common).

now imagine- there is a brownout on the line the PC is connected to- say it drops to 105 volts. Not too bad.

a typical power supply has a tolerance level- it can s maintain DC voltages at their proper levels when the power drops too low or goes to high momentarily. However, let's say there is a real brownout on the line- say, grandma just turned on the dryer.

the power dips to 105- and stays there. What SHOULD happen, is the power supply should revoke the POWER_GOOD signal, which puts the PC in a reboot loop.

But what often happens with cheap supplies is that they are simply made to route the Power Good signal from the +5 volt rail. Now, the problem here is that the POWER_GOOD signal as far as the motherboard is concerned, is fine for a variantion  from +2.4V through +6.0V. By the time the +5V rail gets that distorted, it's too late.

This could result in either permanent hardware damage, data corruption (as memory refresh cycle timings drop, the supplied power isn't enough during each Refresh, etc).


Now let's see here. What kind of power supply causes these problems to the PC? a Cheap one. Cheap. the very same kind of protection your professing in larger scale hardware yourself. So I think the real question is, if a 20$ power supply can't do what a 60$ one does- what makes you think that a 50$ whole house protector will do the job of a 100$ or 150$ one?

Power-Protection Systems

Power-protection systems do just what the name implies: They protect your equipment from the effects of power surges and power failures. In particular, power surges and spikes can damage computer equipment, and a loss of power can result in lost data. In this section, you learn about the four primary types of power-protection devices available and when you should use them.

Before considering any further levels of power protection, you should know that a quality power supply already affords you a substantial amount of protection. High-end power supplies from the vendors I recommend are designed to provide protection from higher-than-normal voltages and currents, and they provide a limited amount of power-line noise filtering. Some of the inexpensive aftermarket power supplies probably do not have this sort of protection. If you have an inexpensive computer, further protecting your system might be wise.

Note:
All the power-protection features in the power supply inside your computer require that the computer's AC power cable be connected to a ground.

Many older homes do not have three-prong (grounded) outlets to accommodate grounded devices.

Do not use a three-pronged adapter (that bypasses the three-prong requirement and enables you to connect to a two-prong socket) to plug a surge SUPPRESSOR, computer, or UPS into a two-pronged outlet. They often don't provide a good ground and can inhibit the capabilities of your power-protection devices.

You also should test your power sockets to ensure they are grounded. Sometimes outlets, despite having three-prong sockets, are not connected to a ground wire; an inexpensive socket tester (available at most hardware stores) can detect this condition.

Of course, the easiest form of protection is to turn off and unplug your computer equipment (including your modem) when a thunderstorm is imminent. However, when this is not possible, other alternatives are available.

Power supplies should stay within operating specifications and continue to run a system even if any of these power line disturbances occur:

• Voltage drop to 80V for up to 2 seconds
• Voltage drop to 70V for up to .5 seconds
• Voltage surge of up to 143V for up to 1 second

Most high-quality power supplies (or the attached systems) will not be damaged by the following occurrences:

• Full power outage
• Any voltage drop (brownout)
• A spike of up to 2,500V

Because of their internal protection, many computer manufacturers that use high-quality power supplies state in their documentation that external surge suppressors are not necessary with their systems.

To verify the levels of protection built in to the existing power supply in a computer system, an independent laboratory subjected several unprotected PC systems to various spikes and surges of up to 6,000V—considered the maximum level of surge that can be transmitted to a system through an electrical outlet. Any higher voltage would cause the power to arc to the ground within the outlet. None of the systems sustained permanent damage in these tests. The worst thing that happened was that some of the systems rebooted or shut down when the surge was more than 2,000V. Each system restarted when the power switch was toggled after a shutdown.

I do not use any real form of power protection on my systems, and they have survived near-direct lightning strikes and powerful surges. The most recent incident, only 50 feet from my office, was a direct lightning strike to a brick chimney that blew the top of the chimney apart. None of my systems (which were running at the time) were damaged in any way from this incident; they just shut themselves down. I was able to restart each system by toggling the power switches. An alarm system located in the same office, however, was destroyed by this strike. I am not saying that lightning strikes or even much milder spikes and surges can't damage computer systems—another nearby lightning strike did destroy a modem and serial adapter installed in one of my systems. I was just lucky that the destruction did not include the motherboard.

This discussion points out an important oversight in some power-protection strategies: Do not forget to provide protection from spikes and surges on the phone line.

The automatic shutdown of a computer during power disturbances is a built-in function of most high-quality power supplies. You can reset the power supply by flipping the power switch from on to off and back on again. Some power supplies even have an auto-restart function. This type of power supply acts the same as others in a massive surge or spike situation: It shuts down the system. The difference is that after normal power resumes, the power supply waits for a specified delay of 3–6 seconds and then resets itself and powers the system back up. Because no manual switch resetting is required, this feature might be desirable in systems functioning as network servers or in those found in other unattended locations.

The first time I witnessed a large surge cause an immediate shutdown of all my systems, I was extremely surprised. All the systems were silent, but the monitor and modem lights were still on. My first thought was that everything was blown, but a simple toggle of each system-unit power switch caused the power supplies to reset, and the units powered up with no problem. Since that first time, this type of shutdown has happened to me several times, always without further problems.



Surge Suppressors (Protectors)
The simplest form of power protection is any one of the commercially available surge protectors—that is, devices inserted between the system and the power line. These devices, which cost between $20 and $200, can absorb the high-voltage transients produced by nearby lightning strikes and power equipment. Some surge protectors can be effective for certain types of power problems, but they offer only very limited protection.

Surge protectors use several devices, usually metal-oxide varistors (MOVs), that can clamp and shunt away all voltages above a certain level. MOVs are designed to accept voltages as high as 6,000V and divert any power above 200V to ground. MOVs can handle normal surges, but powerful surges such as direct lightning strikes can blow right through them. MOVs are not designed to handle a very high level of power and self-destruct while shunting a large surge. These devices therefore cease to function after either a single large surge or a series of smaller ones. The real problem is that you can't easily tell when they no longer are functional. The only way to test them is to subject the MOVs to a surge, which destroys them. Therefore, you never really know whether your so-called surge protector is protecting your system.

Some surge protectors have status lights that let you know when a surge large enough to blow the MOVs has occurred. A surge suppressor without this status indicator light is useless because you never know when it has stopped protecting.

Underwriters Laboratories has produced an excellent standard that governs surge suppressors, called UL 1449. Any surge suppressor that meets this standard is a very good one and definitely offers a line of protection beyond what the power supply in your PC already offers. The only types of surge suppressors worth buying, therefore, should have two features:

• CONFORMANCE to the UL 1449 standard
• A status light indicating when the MOVs are blown

Units that meet the UL 1449 specification say so on the packaging or directly on the unit. If this standard is not mentioned, it does not conform. Therefore, you should avoid it.

Another good feature to have in a surge suppressor is a built-in circuit breaker that can be manually reset rather than a fuse. The breaker protects your system if it or a peripheral develops a short. These better surge suppressors usually cost about $40.

Phone Line Surge Protectors
In addition to protecting the power lines, it is critical to provide protection to your systems from any connected phone lines. If you are using a modem or fax board that is plugged into the phone system, any surges or spikes that travel through the phone line can damage your system. In many areas, the phone lines are especially susceptible to lightning strikes, which are the leading cause of fried modems and damage to the computer equipment attached to them.

Several companies manufacture or sell simple surge protectors that plug in between your modem and the phone line. These inexpensive devices can be purchased from most electronics supply houses. Most of the cable and communication product vendors listed in the Vendor List (on the DVD that accompanies this book) sell these phone line surge protectors. Some of the standard power line surge protectors include connectors for phone line protection as well.

Line Conditioners
In addition to high-voltage and current conditions, other problems can occur with incoming power. The voltage might dip below the level needed to run the system, resulting in a brownout. Forms of electrical noise other than simple voltage surges or spikes might travel through the power line, such as radio-frequency interference or electrical noise caused by motors or other inductive loads.

Remember two things when you wire TOGETHER digital devices (such as computers and their peripherals):

Any wire can act as an antenna and have voltage induced in it by nearby electromagnetic fields, which can come from other wires, telephones, CRTs, motors, fluorescent fixtures, static discharge, and, of course, radio transmitters.

Digital circuitry responds with surprising efficiency to noise of even a volt or two, making those induced voltages particularly troublesome. The electrical wiring in your building can act as an antenna, picking up all kinds of noise and disturbances.

A line conditioner can handle many of these types of problems. A line conditioner is designed to remedy a variety of problems. It filters the power, bridges brownouts, suppresses high-voltage and current conditions, and generally acts as a buffer between the power line and the system. A line conditioner does the job of a surge suppressor, and much more. It is more of an active device, functioning continuously, rather than a passive device that activates only when a surge is present. A line conditioner provides true power conditioning and can handle myriad problems. It contains transformers, capacitors, and other circuitry that can temporarily bridge a brownout or low-voltage situation. These units usually cost $100–$300, depending on the power-handling capacity of the unit.

Backup Power
The next level of power protection includes backup power-protection devices. These units can provide power in case of a complete blackout, thereby providing the time necessary for an orderly system shutdown. Two types are available: the standby power supply (SPS) and the uninterruptible power supply (UPS). The UPS is a special device because it does much more than just provide backup power—it is also the best kind of line conditioner you can buy.

Standby Power Supplies
A standby power supply is known as an offline device: It functions only when normal power is disrupted. An SPS system uses a special circuit that can sense the AC line current. If the sensor detects a loss of power on the line, the system quickly switches over to a standby battery and power inverter. The power inverter converts the battery power to 120V AC power, which is then supplied to the system.

SPS systems do work, but sometimes a problem occurs during the switch to battery power. If the switch is not fast enough, the computer system shuts down or reboots anyway, which defeats the purpose of having the backup power supply. A truly outstanding SPS adds to the circuit a ferroresonant transformer, which is a large transformer with the capability to store a small amount of power and deliver it during the switch time. This device functions as a buffer on the power line, giving the SPS almost uninterruptible capability.


SPS units also might have internal line conditioning of their own. Under normal circumstances, most cheaper units place your system directly on the regular power line and offer no conditioning. The addition of a ferroresonant transformer to an SPS gives it extra regulation and protection capabilities because of the buffer effect of the transformer. SPS devices without the ferroresonant transformer still require the use of a line conditioner for full protection. SPS systems usually cost between a hundred and several thousand dollars, depending on the quality and power-output capacity.

Uninterruptible Power Supplies
Perhaps the best overall solution to any power problem is to provide a power source that is CONDITIONED and that can't be interrupted—which is the definition of an uninterruptible power supply. UPSs are known as online systems because they continuously function and supply power to your computer systems. Because some companies advertise ferroresonant SPS devices as though they were UPS devices, many now use the term true UPS to describe a truly online system. A true UPS system is constructed in much the same way as an SPS system; however, because the computer is always operating from the battery, there is no switching circuit.

In a true UPS, your system always operates from the battery. A voltage inverter converts from 12V DC to 120V AC. You essentially have your own private power system that generates power independently of the AC line. A battery charger connected to the line or wall current keeps the battery charged at a rate equal to or greater than the rate at which power is consumed.

When the AC current supplying the battery charger fails, a true UPS continues functioning undisturbed because the battery-charging function is all that is lost. Because the computer was already running off the battery, no switch takes place and no power disruption is possible. The battery begins discharging at a rate dictated by the amount of load your system places on the unit, which (based on the size of the battery) gives you plenty of time to execute an orderly system shutdown. Based on an appropriately scaled storage battery, the UPS functions continuously, generating power and preventing unpleasant surprises. When the line power returns, the battery charger begins recharging the battery, again with no interruption.


Many SPS systems are advertised as though they are true UPS systems. The giveaway is the unit's switch time. If a specification for switch time exists, the unit can't be a true UPS because UPS units never switch. However, a good SPS with a ferroresonant transformer can virtually equal the performance of a true UPS at a lower cost.

UPS cost is a direct function of both the length of time it can continue to provide power after a line current failure and how much power it can provide. You therefore should purchase a UPS that provides enough power to run your system and peripherals and enough time to close files and provide an orderly shutdown. Remember, however, to manually perform a system shutdown procedure during a power outage. You will probably need your monitor plugged into the UPS and the computer. Be sure the UPS you purchase can provide sufficient power for all the devices you must connect to it.

Because of a true UPS's almost total isolation from the line current, it is unmatched as a line conditioner and surge suppressor. The best UPS systems add a ferroresonant transformer for even greater power conditioning and protection capability. This type of UPS is the best form of power protection available. The price, however, can be high. To find out just how much power your computer system requires, look at the UL sticker on the back of the unit. This sticker lists the maximum power draw in watts, or sometimes in just volts and amperes. If only voltage and amperage are listed, multiply the two figures to calculate the wattage.

As an example, if the documentation for a system indicates that the computer can require as much as 120V at a maximum current draw of 5 amps, the maximum power the system can draw is about 550 watts. This wattage is for a system with every slot full, two hard disks, and one floppy—in other words, a system at the maximum possible level of expansion. The system should never draw any more power than that; if it does, a 5-amp fuse in the power supply will blow. This type of system usually draws an average of 300 watts. However, to be safe when you make calculations for UPS capacity, be conservative; use the 550-watt figure. Adding a monitor that draws 100 watts brings the total to 650 watts or more. Therefore, to run two fully loaded systems, you'd need a 1,100-watt UPS. And don't forget two monitors, each drawing 100 watts. Therefore, the total is 1,300 watts. A UPS of that capacity or greater costs approximately $500–$700. Unfortunately, that is what the best level of protection costs. Most companies can justify this type of expense only for critical-use PCs, such as network servers.

In addition to the total available output power (wattage), several other factors can distinguish one UPS from another. The addition of a ferroresonant transformer improves a unit's power conditioning and buffering capabilities. Good units also have an inverter that produces a true sine wave output; the cheaper ones might generate a square wave. A square wave is an approximation of a sine wave with abrupt up-and-down voltage transitions. The abrupt transitions of a square wave are not compatible with some computer equipment power supplies. Be sure that the UPS you purchase produces power that is compatible with your computer equipment. Every unit has a specification for how long it can sustain output at the rated level. If your systems draw less than the rated level, you have some additional time.

Some of the many sources of power protection equipment include American Power Conversion (APC), Tripp Lite, and Best Power. These companies sell a variety of UPS, SPS, line, and surge protector products.

JJ 3000 I love westoms' claim that they "replaced every semiconductor" in every computer.

BC programmer is right, you're nothing but a sad little troll.

i can't figure out how to access them. most don't show up in "add and remove PROGRAMS". i don't
know what to do. THANKS, boyd.What kind of REINSTALL was it? Over the top? If so, most programs have to REINSTALLED, as well.

Currentlly i using microsoft OFFICE excel 2000 to do DUCUMENT check with certain numbers.First press Ctrl + F --> enter the number that i want to search,example(HV3000H) thn press "enter". If found it WOULD HIGHLIGHT that number(HV3000H) and i can do the editing on that number or colour CHANGING. Then press "Esc" and follow the same step for others sheets checking. If the number not found, it would prompt up a message "cant found the data". Then press "Esc" and follow the same step for others sheets checking. Any others faster or easier ways or visual Basic language can help to minimize this checking task cause this is my job scope everdays.
i knows about excel and Visual basic.
Can anyone give me advise??

Hi,    At first when I started using XP I was logging on without needing the password THOUGH I'm not sure that I was the Adm. or not, but as soon as, I made a password for the Adm.  I now log on as Adm. and need to give the  password.  I've read in Windows help that I shouldn't log on as Adm. because of the GREATER damage a Trojan can do to my computer because I'm logged on as the Adm. 

So I need help to first to stop logging on as the Adm.  and secondly I need to know how to become the Adm. when needed.  Right now I have just the Adm. USER and a guest user.

Not sure what to do.  I did search for this answer.  Thanks for your help You need to create a NEW user profile.

1.  click Start, and the click Control Panel

2.  Click User Accounts
 
3.  Click Create a new Account

4.  The system will ask you for a name for the new user then what rights you want to give the new user and here you can chose to not give it administrator rights.

When you need to be administrator you can log in under the original user.  Which you would have to be in order to perform any updates or downloads.

I bought a computer from a friend, that computer comes with a HARD drive and a DVD writer. then i add another hard drive and one more DVD writer which now makes a total of 2 DVD writer and 2 hard drive. then it works fine for few hours without one of the DVD writer not being detected. Then when i found out that one of my DVD writer is not being detected, i shuts down again and started reconnecting the drivers again and resetting the jumpers, and now it detected all my drivers but then causes another problem which is my computer is continuously restarting just before the operating system(windows XP) boots. By the way, that computer also comes with a 512MB of ram then i again added another 512MB of ram which now makes a total of 1GB.

Thankyou and hope to hear from you very sortlty (just reply via my gmail account a"")

Carlos Posati

Admin edit: Removing your e-mail address for your protection. That's how bots FIND you to spam you.

Carlos, your power supply may be underpowered for the hardware you are now running....also make sure the new ram is well seated.I have successfully completed Formatting my Hard disk and Installing Windows xp Professional SP2 and every thing works fine. But I mistakenly registered that Computer in my name instead of my Company's name. So I just wanna ask you if theres any way you can help me to CORRECT that spelling error without reformatting and reinstalling everything again.

Thanks and hope to hear from you very sortly

Cheers......... Carlos, here you go......Step by step.

 

http://www.real-knowledge.com/naming.htmI have completely building a computer, it operates successfully. I am using windows xp Professional sp3. The next thing I am thinking of doing now is to install one more operating system which is Ubuntu,again in just only one hard disk. From my own understanding I know that this type of method MIGHT require me to install a virtualbox.But i dont know which one exactly is the right one, so i want if you can direct me to the right software so i can download it. And also explain to me how i can Partion my hard disk and then continue my installation.

Thanks and hope to hear from you sortly

Cheers..............

Hi everyone..new to the forum..I have a Dell Lattitude D600 running XP. Once the computer is booted up and I'm working for 5 min. The SCREEN goes dark. The programs or whater I was doing continues to run but the screen is out. I press the "FN" key and "suspend" at the same time and the computer hibernates. I then hit the power button once and the screen comes back. Does this every few min...very fustrating...can't figure what it is. Checked display settings nothing seems unusual...please help.Check your Power Options settings in Control Panel...Already did that, setting seemed fine....any other ideas???Try disabling Hibernation when you right click My Computer and go to Properties.The computer doesn't hibernate...all lights are on..programs running..but screen goes dark. I MAKE it hibernate by suspending and then power on and it comes back on..but only now for a few seconds then goes dark again. I had reminder to update virus protection...so in between of this off/on trick with the suspend button, I UPDATED the virus protection..and it seemed to work fine for about an hour and now it is doing the same thing. Sometimes I can see whats on the screen very very lightly when the monitor blacks out?...can it be the video card?The problem you are having is with the lcd inverter.  It needs to be replaced.

Here's where you can buy it:  http://www.excelcomputerinc.com/html/details.asp?ref=831&category=inverterHey Saviour...Thanks for your reply...is this part easy to install? Have you dealt with this vendor? reputable?Saviour...also,  if it was this inverter..wouldn't it be dark all the time? and not intermittent?It could be caused by a loose connection and/or the inverter failing...

Normally, when the inverter fails, or starts to fail...you'll experience what you have described...the screen goes dark, but the image is still there.

To me...this doesn't describe or fit into a video chip problem.  At such a low cost...I would try the inverter replacement.  I highly doubt it's anything else.  However...I could be wrong...I'm only human.

If worse comes to worse...you're only out $50 as opposed to a new video card...or worse yet...a new display.

How comfortable are you with fixing laptops?

Dell has a Service MANUAL on-line for your machine:  D600 Service ManualYour right, I saw one on ebay for 22 BUCKS new shipped..I can give it a shot...I'm pretty good with my hands (Harley's) but I'll take my time...thx SaviourYou're welcome, my friend.

Please keep us posted as to how the replacement/repair goes...we'd love to hear it.


All my best!

SteveHey Steve,
I installed the inverter and it seems to work fine. It did this before however (work fine) then it acted up again. But so far so good. Thx for the advice and if it acts up by going dark again I'll be posting!!!

Thx againHopefully, it won't cause you any more pain.  Keep in mind, though...if this continues...it could, in fact, be the LCD itself.  That, my friend is a lot more expensive than the inverter.

I'll keep my fingers crossed for ya.

I was setting up my computer as i have moved house and the mouse decided not to work, so i shut down the computer and tried plugging it in again. After thousands of tries it finally worked but after a short while the mouse froze. I then restarted the computer a few more times, then it froze and i had to turn it off by the wall. Now an error message is coming up and i can't do anything, i can get into set up, tried rebooting it in safe mode and last known configuration but after the windows logo comes up it then goes back to the error message.

The message says that there is an INACCESIBLE BOOT device.

Any ideas?Anytime a computer has been moved theres a chance of things getting jostled around so here's what i'd suggest...
Power down and remove all cables from the back of the machine.
Open/remove a side panel and remove and re-seat all RAM chips, add-on cards including video sound etc.
Remove all drive cables and re-plug them firmly.
Then hook up all cables at the REAR of the machine.

Leave the side panel off for now...re-connect power and boot up and see what happens.
Best of Luck and let us know...Thanks for the advice. I took the computer apart and put everything back together but nothing SEEMED amiss. Once i turned it back on it still kept showing up with the same blue screen but this time it's saying on another screen that the hard disk isn't working. Ive tried everything i can think of, EVEN trying to re-install windows dosen't work because theres something wrong with the hard disk.

If you have any ideas that'll be great thanks.Moving can, indeed, damage a hard drive.

Determine the manufacturer of your drive and download the diagnostic software here: http://www.tacktech.com/display.cfm?ttid=287.

Burn image file to CD, boot from the CD and run diagnostics; run the "long" tests.

Powered on the computer on Sunday, and all of my security program icons together with about another 7 random ones had been removed from the desktop.
Couldn't log into the internet either as the files had been corrupted. It's taken me over a day to get back the system to some kind of working format.
Found out that the programs were still actually there, so restored the desktop lcons. Internet had to be totally reinstalled. It doesn't work in the same way as before, but at least l have access and will probably do another post later.
I've now RUN all security scans and an HJT log has been ok'd by Evilfantasy, so it wasn't a virus as l had first thought.
Tried a system restore, but it wouldn't let me do this for any day prior to Sunday.
Now when l boot up the system l get a message saying "Invalid boot.ini file booting from c:\windows\"
Did a search for boot.ini and the only file it found was "boot.ini.backup" contained in the path c:\windows\PSS The contents of that file are
[boot loader]
timeout=30
default=multi(0)DISK(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS
[operating systems]
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP Home Edition" /fastdetect /NoExecute=OptIn
Does this seem ok and is it in the right directory (pss). If so, how do l now get this into a working boot.in file?Copy the Boot.ini.backup file you found to the root of C: as Boot.ini and you should be back to normal as far as boot.ini is concerned.

As you've found the absence of a boot.ini file does not prevent the system from booting provided that a valid OS is found in C:\Windows\  (or C:\Winnt\ in Win 2k).

Good luck.Thanks Dusty.
Not being too tecnically minded, l copied the file to C:\ and renamed it as "boot.ini" whereby the icon changed from a program icon to that of a NOTEPAD icon with a cog wheel on it.
Doesn't seem right to me? Strike that last post out Dusty.
It does work, it's just that the icon is different from the backup icon l was used.
All is now well, thanksThanks for coming back to report your success.

Suggest that you make the C:\Boot.ini file Read Only by browsing to it, Right CLICK it and select Properties.  Check the Read Only box and click Apply then OK.

D.

Hello: I use XP with service pack 3 and Outlook Express as my email.  My email address is at gmail and the way I set it up when I first got it, way back when gmail first started, was that when I CHECKED my OE mail, it automatically pulls down (or whatever you call it) my new email from gmail.  For the past three days, however, this isn't happening.  My OE automatically keeps checking and I get the message that my POP is not responding--wait or cancel.  If I choose wait, nothing  happens, except that I get another message later, over and over. 

  I haven't changed any settings or anything. What can I do about this to get my email coming back to me automatically? I can go to the gmail site with no problem and see and respond to my mail but I like to have it in my OE so I can deal with it offline as I get a lot of mail.

Thanks for your help.I take it you've checked your gmail settings?  Sometimes these things change without warning.  Just a thought.
Lorri.
Lorri: This probably sounds dumb  but what should I check and where? Do you mean checking the settings in the gmail itself, or in the OE?

Thanks

DrDAnyway, I checked my settings in the gmail program. Both POP DOWNLOADING and IMAP access are enabled.  The message I keep getting is: Your POP 3 server has not responded in 60 seconds. Would you like to wait another 60 seconds? I have an ADSL so there really shouldn't be a slow connection or response....

Any ideas?

Thanks

Dr.D.Sometimes it's not on your end that's the problem.  AT&T is famous for making changes then retroactively fixing what they broke.  Can you CONTACT gmail support?

Alan <><  What are your current POP and SMTP settings on the gmail account ? ?Settings

    * General
    * Accounts
    * Labels
    * Filters
    * FORWARDING and POP/IMAP

Setting    Choices
Forwarding:    Disable forwarding
Forward a copy of incoming mail to and
POP Download:
Learn more    1. Status: POP is enabled for all mail that has arrived since 9/18/08
Enable POP for all mail (even mail that's already been downloaded)
Enable POP only for mail that arrives from now on
Disable POP

2. When messages are accessed with POP

3. Configure your email client (e.g. Outlook, Eudora, Netscape Mail)
   Configuration instructions
IMAP Access:
(access Gmail from other clients using IMAP)
Learn more    1. Status: IMAP is enabled
Enable IMAP
Disable IMAP

2. Configure your email client (e.g. Outlook, Thunderbird, iPhone)
   Configuration instructions

is this what you mean?

DrDHi: this fixed itself! Thanks to everyone who tried to help.

Dr. D

Compaq Presario 2200 laptop is not booting to Windows XP.

I get an error message right after the Windows XP loading SCREEN (the screen with the loading bar) and then it goes blank for a few seconds, and finally to a BSOD that says "The Video Driver Failed to INITIALIZE". After that appears, it starts the whole process again.

I tried Windows Recovery. I can't safe mode it, and choosing previous working settings doesn't work either.

Help, please?Is this after you have re-installed xp? Or upgraded? Or did it just happen randomly i guess?

You could always try repairing the install USING the XP disc.How exactly did you run a Recovery ? ?The problem happened after the computer froze one day.
I used the Windows XP disk to repair the installation but that didn't do anything.Are you SURE you did what it states here:
http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/XPrepairinstall.htmCarbon Dudeoxide, yes I did it the way it was instructed.I don't see any harm in doing it again.

(Try to repair the repair installation, if you know what I mean )I've attempted to repair install many times with the same end result.
Repair in repair installation? No, I don't know what you mean. Ha ha.Sorry, repair the repair installation.       

What were you doing when the computer froze?

Is this laptop still under warranty?Changed settings from 32 to 16 bit color when it crashed.
The laptop is DEFINITELY OUT of warranty.

Hello.
It all started when i tried to turn my computer on. I started to see vertical lines across the screen, but only on the colored areas. I get a Blue screen of Death between the XP logo loading, and the login screen, with the error message
STOP 0x00000050. I am able to get into safe mode with and without network. but i still see the vertical lines.
Also, the sound from the computer when you turn if on is like a beep. but now, its more of a blurry beep. its not a clean sound.

According to SpeedFan, my AUX's heat is at 119 degrees. and all the other components is at around 40-60 degrees. This is weird as the fan is working perfectly, and i even have a house fan blowing into the computer. (yes it is open for cooling).
The days are hot and i belive that might be the reason. but that makes me wonder why it WORKS in safe mode and not in normal mode.

This is my computer:
Intel(R) Core(TM)2 CPU
6600 2.40Ghz
2.39 Ghz, 2.00 GB of RAM
Windows XP Pro with Service pack 3.

The graphic DRIVE is a Geforce 7600 but im not that sure. I KNOW its a Geforce, and that it fits with a PCI motherboard.
When i try to see what kind of Graphic card it is, i only see the message "Display: (Default Monitor) on"
That might be because im in Safe Mode, but im not sure.

I wrote "dxdiag" in run, but under display, all the info i get is "n/a"
"Note: The system is using a generic video driver. Please install video driver provided by the hardware manufacturer"
And i've done that. I downloaded the last Nvidia video card driver and installed it, and i have done nothing to my computer.
It suddently happend. the last time i downloaded anything, was about a month ago.

This is a picture of the Blue Screen.

From MSDN:

Quote

Requested data was not in memory. An invalid system memory address was referenced. Defective memory (including main memory, L2 RAM cache, video RAM) or incompatible software (including remote control and antivirus software) might cause this Stop message, as may other hardware problems (e.g., incorrect SCSI TERMINATION or a flawed PCI card). Use the General TROUBLESHOOTING of STOP Messages checklist above.

What the best way to either automatically save all documents to both Documents and to the ext E drive ?

Also is it possible to add the E drive (ext HARD drive) to the "save" drop down menu or sub it for the A drive floppy since I NEVER use floppies.For auto saving to an EXTERNAL i use a nice little tool called SyncBack...they have a FREE and Paid version....

For your other query the Send To Power Toys extension WOULD do the trick...

I have TRIED everything suggested to fix this problem from correcting the registry to uninstalling the cd/dvd drives and the computer still will not recognize the cd/dvd...Does anyone have a SOLUTION that will actually work...I have a DELL dimension E-510 and I am close to throwing the WHOLE thing out the window...cannot RELOAD software beacuse the pc won't recognize the cd/dvd...

Hi
I am ATTEMPTING to repair a friends laptop.
I have originally posted on the vrus and malware forum and evilfantasy
has been helping me but RECOMMENDED i TRY here.
Details of all my original efforts are under that post
"BLUE screen after log on win32 Patched-ck.
The machine is an Acer laptop Aspire 3690 running windows XP with SP2 Installed.
I can get to the log on screen enter the password and blue screen with functioning mouse pointer appears.
Then nothing
I can aslo boot the machine into safe mode
I would appreciate any advice/help.Run a search of your C:\ partition for SETSVR32.EXE and please post the result.

Hi Thanks for helping me.
I have done a search on the C drive and cannot locate
SETSVR32.EXE.
I have the folder options set to display all files also.SOLVED
Dont know how but I uninstalled Avast in safe mode and now the Laptop works.Well I'll be.....  There's one for the Avast experts...   Thanks for coming BACK to report your success...

Hello. My internet CONNECTION is being weird. I can sign into MSN Messenger and talk to people, but when I TRY to USE my internet browser, it says this page cannot be displayed.

Can someone please help me?try resetting Internet Explorer to default settings

Make sure Internet Explorer is closed, Then.....START>control panel>Internet Options>Advanced tab>click "RESET"

Once it is done, open your browser to see if it connects successfully to your home pageI use Safari.I'm not familiar with Safari      But if you google for something LIKE:  "how to reset Safari to default settings" it may get you somewhere

Hi, i RECENTLY tried to re-install Windows XP, but by mistake installed it in another drive and so instead of overwriting, there are two windows xp.
        I tried to remove the new one by formatting the drive (drive E). But still when i start the computer, there are two options of windows XP INFRONT of me and i always have to choose the second option.
        Can you please help me how to remove this option and just normally boot into windows xp (the second option)?
      Thanks in advance.What happens when press the first option?

Can you confirm the other Windows XP is gone?Use Easy BCD.....will solve all ur booting problems.....Post a copy of your boot.ini file and we'll SHOW you what to edit out.Hi Patio!

That makes at least three times that I've read that same problem in the last week!
Not the same person though.

Vista makes it harder to fix, since they don't use a "Boot.ini" file.

Cheers mate!
The Shadow  Yep...i did see a Vista fix recently.
Fortunately he does have XP .Hi, the boot.ini file has the following contents:

[boot loader]
timeout=30
default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS
[operating systems]
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP Professional" /noexecute=optin /fastdetect
when i press the first option it gives some error
\system32\hal.dll
then when i press enter it restarts.

I want to remove the first option of windows xp.

when i press the second option, it boots properly into windows xp. no problem.

tried installing easybcd, but some application problem again. Quote

EasyBCD is NeoSmart Technologies' multiple award-winning answer to tweaking the new Windows Vista BOOTLOADER.

Quote

EasyBCD is NeoSmart Technologies' multiple award-winning answer to tweaking the new Windows Vista bootloader.

........ 


I don't see anything wrong with your boot loader, however change timeout=30 to timeout=0

Hi, I was hoping someone could help me. I was trying to get both my monitors to work and I accidentally unchecked one of the boxes on the main monitor and now they are both blank. I don't know how to get the main one back. Please anyone help me?Not sure, just guessing here, but have you tried PRESSING FN + one of the F# KEYS?

http://centraal.uk.knowledgebox.com/kbase/files/CDROM/images/f7.pngYes, I just tried that and NOTHING. Thank You for trying to help. Quote from: lfry on October 02, 2008, 07:33:37 AM

Yes, I just tried that and nothing. Thank You for trying to help.

I have an IBM ThinkPad which has been configured as a dual-boot system (Win98 & Windows2000).  The machine will always boot into Windows98.  However, it would blue screen attempting to start Win2000.
I performed a repair of the Win2000 via an option in the boot selection menu.  Everything seemed to go well.  But, when Windows2000 boots, it KEEPS displaying "Windows Installer" dialog boxes for three or four applications.
Can I rectify this situation or would I be better off performing a complete reinstall of Win2K.
Thanks!CLICK Here...Thanks for the link to the Windows Installer Cleanup utility.
The executable file throws a "Windows Script Host" error when launched from Windows2000 preventing it from preceding with its installation.

I then tried to launch the installation from Windows98 and the installation was successful.  However, when I launched the application, Windows98 threw a different error:

A required DLL file MSVBVM60.DLL was not found

Back to the original problem, I am able to clear the Windows Installer boxes by GOING through the Windows Task Manager.  They windows will disappear for a time but will return.

In addition, I have noticed that the links to many of the applications have been broken.  If I click on a Word document, the windows installer window returns asking for the Microsoft Office CD.  However, if I go to the programs folder for Microsoft Office, I can launch Word directly.  There is not a problem with any of the applications, just the link between the documents and the originating programs that are necessary to open the documents.

Any idea if these two problems are related and how I might deal with EITHER of them.
ThanksFinally resolved the problem!!!

The laptop began developing a horizontal streak through the middle of the desktop.  When I checked the wallpaper settings, I found that the user had set the computer to using an Internet derived wallpaper.  This was not apparent because it was always displaying the traditional solid blue background.
I set the wallpaper property to "none" and immediately noticed that the annoying windows installer windows had VANISHED.  Rebooted the laptop and it began behaving normally.
I never though the problem would have been so simple.
Thanks for all your help!Glad to hear you got it solved...stop by anytime !

hello everybody, hows it goin, am using YAHOO messenger 9.0 under windows'XP sp2, last evening i was trying to sign in but failed it's giving error, "yahoo sign in problem, check user id or password" where as user id and password is CORRECT, and i can sign in from other computer..

please help me out.

thanksI would start by uninstalling yahoo messenger, restarting the computer and reinstalling it

Updating your OS to Service PACK 3 and running a few virus scans wouldn't be a bad idea either.....I use AVG Free Edition, Malwarebytes, and Spybot S&AMP;D.......ALL FREE

I was just doing regular stuff when the computer froze and shutdown.  I turned it back on and everything looked different.  The computer is a Dell and at the Dell screen there were blue streaks.  The windows icon looked jumbled.  Then it went to the menu asking whether I wanted to start in safe mode or normally, but the words were jumbled.  Certain letters were replaced by other letters, and where there was empty space there were exclamation marks.  I TRIED to start normally and it blue screened.  I tried again in safe mode.  It worked and I did a system restore to 2 days ago.  Now I can't even get the computer to turn on.  I start it, hear the fan start up, but it stops a second later.  I also don't hear any of the CLICKS it MAKES when it's working.  The light turns on to show that it's on, but it just doesn't do anything.  The moniter starts up, but it turns off right away.  Help?

Edit:  I tried starting it again and everything was FINE for a couple minutes, then the monitor shut off.  I could still hear the video was watching so I think it's the monitor now?Sounds like the monitor is your primary SUSPECT for now. The easiest way to find out whether it is broken or not is to borrow a known working monitor or try your monitor on a different computer.

I recently left my job where they required me to purchase a company laptop (Toshiba Portege) which was SET up on their network and I was given a limited account. Now that I have left I took the COMPUTER with me but I still have restricted privileges and can't install programs and everything. Is there a way to become the administrator and eliminate the other account? I have Windows XP operating SYSTEM, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks for your help.If I were you, I would just format the hard drive, and reinstall the operating system

Do you have the windows disk?

Does the computer have a recovery partition?there's not even a CD drive on the laptop, and there isnt a recovery partition, at least that i know of.When you turn your computer on, keep tapping F11 as it is booting up. Call their IT Department...I have placed several calls to their department but surprisingly they could care less. I wouldn't even mind setting the original settings, but the laptop doesn't have a CD or FLOPPY drive and I dont have an external one. I think I am just stuck with a limited computer.No your not...
If you have an official Windows install CD with a liscense all you need to do is DLoad all the drivers for that machine and the Os you choose ansd in the install process you simply choose to wipe the existing partition and re-create it
After installing the OS then install all drivers for the machine and you should be good to go...Yeah, thanks for the help, but there is no CD drive and I dont have an external drive. I'll probably just end up taking it somewhere instead of dealing with buying cables and all that junkwhen login screen appear, type ctrl+alt+del.
this leads to another screen, where you have to type your username and password.
in the username tab, type administrator. password tab still be empty. if anyhow you login, then you will be an administrator user.
good luck.

No Problem!! 


Did you find any of the stats better in one AUCTION than the other? 



DeeOK it looks like #9 may work as would all the other active units but as I mentioned, the image quality cannot be guaranteed.

We use this type of device professionally but the units we use are about 10 times more expensive. The reason is the image quality. We need clean and stable images. Many lower priced units are not capable of solidly converting from a higher scan rate (VGA to a lower rate (NTSC) and providing a non flickering image.  It may be that our requirements are more stringent than yours as we use our systems to provide archival recordings and we also feed the computer data into the antenna head end in hotels so during conventions, guests can stay in their room and tune into a presentation or play back the recoding of an  EARLIER meeting.

These units look as though they will require adjustment to obtain the most stable image but for around 40 dollars, they will probably suit your needs.So basically all the links I showed  from Ebay will all work? Just thought one may have been slightly better than another. ??  Yeah,  am just looking to watch HULU.COM on my 6 year old SONY 52" TV. No big deal if it's a bit grainy.


THANKS AGAIN!!The last batch of active converters all claim the same specs so any one should work. The problem (if any), will not be a grainy picture, but rather a slight flickering of the image or faint herringbone lines in the TV image.

 Any artifacts or distortion in the TV image will be quite noticeable given the size of the screen.

Best of luck with this. let us know how the image looks when you get it all set up.

BillGee, Bill. Now you have stumped me. (which is not too hard....lol)  Wondering if the flicker will be too annoying to view. I know u can't answer that but I am just thinkin' out loud.


Crap....Just thought of another issue. I find some HULU.COM and other FREE TV SITES play fine but the sound does not match the peoples lips. That drives me NUTS!! I guess those same shows will do the same on the big screen. What a bummer. I really wanted one of the perks of my new netbook to be able to do the TV thing. My mom would have loved to watch some old tv shows (Gilligans Island, Bewitched, A-Team etc.) on the TV. The netbook is 10.2" screen and much too small for her to see.

Thanks for all the input. Maybe I will just order one and shoot the dice.


STAY WELL!!


DeniseThat effect of unsynced video and AUDIO is part of the problem. Its called latency and requires a high quality circuit design and components to compensate.  Some of the more expensive units start at around a thou and the top of the line runs about 10 thou. These very inexpensive units are usually used for playing older video games, or USING the TV as just a bigger computer monitor where synchronized audio is not an issue.

If you go to YOUTUBE and look at some uploaded videos you will see the same thing. They can be off by SEVERAL frames.

In broadcast video you are looking at 30 frames per second so if the converter is slow you can see how far out of sync the audio and video can get.

my couseine always encounter this problem,and i want to know what causes it and how to fix it,she always encounters this with xp startup.after a day of use of her computer just CHATTING,the nextday she cannot boot her PC normally.what happens is the xp loading screen appears but after loading it just restart back.and continously happens.i dont know how to properly fix this so i format her pc and the computer runs normally,but after a few WEEKS this problem occurs again.and i also format it to fix it.is there a proper way to fix this problem.because sometimes i encounter the same problem.Can you log into the computer in Safe Mode?

If you have the Windows XP CD, perform a Repair Install:
http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/XPrepairinstall.htmThis sounds like the same problem I've got, only mines more complicated, I'd run PC Health over it alongside your normal antivirus and download ad-aware. hope this helps....sometimes i can run safe mode,but sometimes not,it just restartsWhen was the LAST time you blew the dust out of the computer with a can of COMPRESSED air?

Download speedfan and post back with the temps
http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.phpit happened again  same problem.computer restarts after xp loading is done, what do i do now

Good morning,

I want to reformat my sister's PC, but have come across SOMETHING I have never seen before! Normally, when I boot from the Windows XP Pro CD, there is only 1 partition I need to delete (I think it is NTSF). However, on my sister's COMPUTER, there are 3 partitions, 2 of which are FAT type. Should I delete all 3? Should I keep the 2 FAT ONES because I believe this is what DELL has put there?

Thanks!I'd leave them alone...and yse they are probably recovery partitions...Do you have a flash drive PLUGGED into the computer?

How big are the two FAT partitions?So, I went ahead and did my reformat without touching the two FAT partitions. After that was finished, I went on the DELL website from another computer to get the drivers needed (I lost the CD that came with the computer). However, I still have errors saying no graphic card has been detected  and I can't access the Internet either!Any errors in Device Manager?
What was the original reason for reinstall?There doesn't seem to be any errors with Device Manager, it's probably just a driver thing because the graphics were working great before I reformated. Oh, and to answer your question, it had not been done since we got the computer, so it was full of crap and veeerrryyy slow.Did you try to reinstall video, and ethernet driver?

Ad-Aware AE problem

When updating my Ad-Aware free edition I received the new AE version.  However, when I try to load this in an effort to run the program I get an error message saying "Failed to start because FLTLIB.DLL was not found".

In the event that this library has been CORRUPTED or otherwise deleted is it possible to replace it from the disk (XP Home), that came with the COMPUTER?  If so, how?

Maybe JJ 3000 can help again (in simple terms please).

Patience, guys, patience.  I'm 76 years OLD and learning fast. According to the forum at LAVASOFT the maker of Ad-aware they suggest updating your system to SP2 or SP3 from SP1. Is your system SP1?

http://www.lavasoftsupport.com/index.php?showtopic=23300Thanks for that pointer Dave.  Yes, the SP1 was my problem and it was reassuring to see that I was not alone.  Unfortunately my whole system ground down to a slow pace last night (that was before I read your post), and in despair I uninstalled AdAware, did a greatly needed defragging, and installed Spyware Doctor.

Let's see how that performs. You need to install all the Service Packs or you will continue to have issues...
XP is up to SP3...Been there and DONE that, thanks Patio.

I used system mechanic professional to find duplicate files and delete a windows system file!? I can use the windows CD to get to the windows advanced options menu and pull up:

Safe Mode
Safe Mode with Networking ETC, etc and the options go no where.

Any subjections

Thank you for any help you can offerWell, you've obviously DELETED some files necessary to boot into Windows.

I can't FIX that for you.  If you have the original System Restore disk(s), then do a Recovery RE-install of Windows.

In the future, NEVER use any PROGRAM that claims to remove duplicate files.
Many great Software Titles have that ability, but I always tell everyone who will listen, to STAY OUT of that area of the program.
I doubt that even a Microsoft Engineer would know every file that was safe to delete.

Good Luck,
The Shadow  Quote

I used system mechanic professional

bought another computer, used but newer to me, it is a BWC PRODUCTS case with only mb, fans in tact, cd-rom and floppy disc drive. the computer is 2004,don't have alot of info on this unit because unit does not start up. mb is ASRock, GE PRO-M2. it did not have a hd and all the ribbons were gone. attempted to replace the ribbons and hook up all the power wires coming out of power supply. there are  no added features. all original eguip. turned on unit, fans started up, fans come on, monitor started up with green light then quickly went to yellow. tryed to reset but would not do it. also had 2 sticks of 256mb memory. i put hd in it. not sure if hd is good or not. have many older hds, as i have been trying to learn how to work on COMPUTERS for the last 1.5 years. also i know the monitor is good because i use it all the time. i'm sorry i don't have any more info but would love to figure this out. would appreciate any help i can get. i know this is a challenge. I would try to BOOT the system with drives disconnected and unpowered. The first hurdle is to get your system to post and show a quick banner of the BIOS etc known as a splash screen.

Also remove both Ram sticks and only place 1 stick in the minimum to operate in case there is an ISSUE with the sticks operating as a pair and place the stick in DIMM 0

Then try to power this system up... if you get a splash screen then shut it down and add your extra stick of Ram to DIMM2 ( if dual-channel supported and sticks are same) otherwise DIMM 1 and see if it powers up. If so move on and add one more piece of harwdare and repeat until you get to a piece of harwdare that was CAUSING it to fail to boot.

If you get no splash screen when the system is as bare as can be to function but isnt, then you will have to inspect the motherboard for damage, jumpers missing or in wrong position. Be sure that there is a healthy looking CPU stuffed correctly into the socket with no bent or missing pins etc.

Also I had one customer a while back bring me there computer that they got at a yard sale that didnt power that they bought for $20 and upon close examination of the motherboard I pointed out to the customer that the motherboard was shot because someone left the computer out in the rain and the legs on the chips all had electrolysis oxidized lead bridging between the gaps like a white chalky material. He later found out that the guy picked it out of someones trash at the side of the road and tried to make $20 on it when he went to return it to the guy to try to get his $20 back. The guy gave him his $20 back but this system was bad before it even got rained on.

Do you have any past history knowledge of this system as to why it was sold as guts and not a working system? I am hoping you didnt pay much for this system if you bought it site unseen as far as not seeing it boot.Excellent advice above from Dave...

You may want to also try booting it to a floppy....
If you need a bootable one they are FREE bootdisk.com...
Doesn't matter what flavor you grab at this point.thanks dave, did not even know anybody anwsered, anwser in junk mail. o'k now to the problem at hand, i don't know of any past history on this computer, i bought it at a thrift store as i don't have a lot of money to invest. i only payed $20.00 for it as well. i buy a lot of older computers  trying to learn and understand them. o'k just disconnected all drives, ribbons and power. however i could not get a splash screen.
i put another new video card in it to see if that would help but to no avail. i could not see anything on the motherboard though. is there a way to test the motherboard? if not i do have some new older mbs i could put in. i just did not want to go through all the trouble. maybe there is something that i am over looking. again thanks for all your help, and would appreciate any other help you could give. Quote

You may want to also try booting it to a floppy....
If you need a bootable one they are FREE bootdisk.com...
Doesn't matter what flavor you grab at this point.

Checked out the PRICE of the CR 2302 at other sources TODAY.  Found them up to $1.49.  Maybe my original source, being a large franchised operation, had bought a large batch and GOT a substantial discount.That was CR 2032, of course

my dell laptop will not start up in any mode ?
what should i do ?Is it plugged into MAINS power??
Have you recently done anything to your laptop??

Also view here and PROVIDE us with more informationi have a MICROSOFT windows xp
dell VOSTRO 1500 laptop
it TURNS on but freeze on the log on page what should i do ?  Will it start in Safe Mode?

I just upgraded the processors, RAM, Hard disk space, etc,etc on my old computer. Although I am currently USING Windows 2000. I am purchasing Windows XP Professional and meet its requirements. What is the procedure for saving the Programs I use on my current OS, so they can be used on the new OS?You can't transfer programs. Programs have to be REINSTALLED.While it is true the major applications like word, wordperfect powerpoint ...need to be reinstalled on the new system,  some standalone gnu or mks tools should copy directly like any other file.  Example: GREP, wc,  ls,sed ,awk  and several  others programs that were developed on Unix and Linux  and then complied for windows will usually work by merely copying  the exe to the new system.  Or download a new set of these tools:

http://www.mkssoftware.com/products/tk/commands.asp?product=tkpdevYes, all programs, which don't require installation, can be moved.Thank you, I was able to get what I needed off that system.
Now I am having a bit of a challenge. I purchased  Windows XP 3 Professional, but cannot get it to work. If I restart my computer, would I need to go into 'Safe MODE' to get it setup correctly? Or do I need to somehow uninstall the old Windows 2000 OS? Can I get a step by step process for either please?http://www.michaelstevenstech.com/cleanxpinstall.htmlAgain thank you.

You're welcome

Hello all,

Sorry for the silly question....................however; what is microsoft.net framework?

Also, in my add/remove programs, I have several versions, 
A)microsoft.net framework 1.1
B) microsoft .net framework 1.1 hotfix
C)microsoft.net framework 2.0 svc pack 2
D)"                                    "3.0 svc pack2
E)"                                     "3.5svc pack 1


Is this something, that I need, if so can I remove the older versions and just keep the 3.5??

Thanks,


Bing Search

Wikipedia Article.NET Framework versions installs independently, which means, different programs may need different NET versions.so removing versions is not advisable?
Quote from: jlaak5 on June 18, 2009, 11:00:51 AM

so removing versions is not advisable?

Under COMPUTER Management I cannot change my SSDP Discovery Service to Automatic or even manual. It is stuck on disabled. I can change it but when I PUSH apply or OK, it says ACCESS is denied. Is there anyway that I can fix this or somehow turn it to automatic. I am trying to HOOK my XBOX 360 up to my Media Center.Go to Start/Run and type in services .msc and do it from there...
If the changes don't stick then you are not logged on as an Admin and you have other issues...

i need a WINDOWS 98 or 2000 OS please can ANYONE tell were i can get them because the shops in my city haven't a COPY of themeBay

come on i need for today does anyone knows a link where i can download them?
Google Quote from: NEO on September 25, 2008, 10:45:18 AM

I need for today

come on i need for today does anyone knows a link where i can download them?

I have an HP Pavilion that needed to be re-imaged and I ordered the recovery disks from HP.  HOWEVER, when you start the computer with the recovery disks that I confirmed were the correct ones for this computer, a message comes up stating These recovery disks are not for the model of computer.   After a fruitless dialog with HP technical support, I was told that there was a problem with the computer when it was manufactured and there was a long process that I need to go through to get the disks to work, but they would not tell me the process because the computer was out of warranty.
Anyone know what this process they are talking about might be?Was motherboard ever replaced?
You should have recovery partition on your HP.Thanks for the reply.  I did try the recovery partition but got an error message from that too.  The hard drive has been formatted and the motherboard has not been replaced to my knowledge.    I have tried to follow to reset the CMOS using the directions for this motherboard, but it has no effect.      I was hoping that someone else with an HP was in warranty when this happened and the HP technicians shared the procedure you have to follow to made the disks work.

Quote

I did try the recovery partition but got an error message from that too

Hello
I recently disinstalled my aol.Now,I am divesting myself of aol stuff.
My Internet Explorer is aol,but is also Windows.
Do I keep ir,or delete it?
Thanks'
FrankInternet Explorer is part of Windows and cannot be deleted.

AOL might have added a toolbar or changed the title of Internet Explorer but both can be fixed.

If you have a toolbar, it should be listed in Add or Remove Programs.
If the title of Internet Explorer has been changed, you can either change it with SpywareBlaster or by editing the registry.  I recommend using SpywareBlaster.

You could also use Firefox instead of Internet Explorer. Quote from: Kip on July 03, 2009, 01:24:48 PM

Internet Explorer is part of Windows and cannot be deleted.

AOL might have added a toolbar or changed the title of Internet Explorer but both can be fixed.

If you have a toolbar, it should be listed in Add or Remove Programs.
If the title of Internet Explorer has been changed, you can either change it with SpywareBlaster or by editing the registry.  I recommend using SpywareBlaster.

Kip
Thanks for your help,
Now,I have Firefox.Is there any ADVANTAGE to have Internet Explorer,also?
Frank
You could also use Firefox instead of Internet Explorer.

I remember reading somewhere that there is a way to get the Windows Updates with Fire Fox, is that legal?

I remember reading somewhere that there is a way to get the Windows Updates with Fire Fox, is that legal?

Quote from: 2x3i5x on June 16, 2009, 10:08:32 PM

which linux is easier to use? Fedora, Ubuntu or Red Hat?

Yes. You will have to reinstall XP. Back up everyting you want to save.

You will have to call microsoft to validate your copy of XP. Tell them that you simply "upgraded" your old computer.

I should also mention that I have never registered or validated my copy of XP. Never have - never will.

I should also mention that I have never registered or validated my copy of XP. Never have - never will.

And just to set your minds at ease, my copy of XP is wholly legal and paid for.

However, I simply do not believe in being coerced or forced into disclosing my computing activities to a commercial organisation once my contract for the purchase of software has been concluded.

I am amazed that your knowledge of XP validation is so limited.

Neither activation nor online validation through WGA discloses any of your "computing activities".

I am amazed that your knowledge of XP validation is so limited.

Hi , I had to restore my computer and after it restored this OEM reset reminder came up . It has shutdown , auto boot and create an ris deployment IMAGE . Does not matter which I click it still starts up at start up of computer . How do I get this off my computer ? I searched the INTERNET and some say it has SOMETHING to do qith spyware or MALICIOUS stuff . I ran the spyware and FOUND none and no viruses , so what is this and how do I get it to stop from loading at start up .How did you restore this computer ? ?
Where is this machine from ?

Hello all, here's my issue in point form.  Had 2 GB RAM.  Had XP MCE SP3.  Bought another 4 GB RAM.  Installed XP 64-bit.  Had choice of OS from boot.  Everything worked OK.  RAM died.  Got new RAM.  Had to reinstall XP MCE SP3.  Now boot loader file only recognizes XP MCE SP3.  XP MCE SP3 is on DISK 1 Primary Partition.  XP 64bit is on DISK 2 Extended partition.  Current boot file is...
[boot loader]
timeout=30
default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS
[operating systems]
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS="Windows XP Media Center Edition" /noexecute=optin /fastdetect
I know i need to insert an additional line this this...
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(0)\WINDOWS="Windows XP Professional x64 Edition" /noexecute=optin /fastdetect
but I don't know where to put the "1's".  Any help would be muchly appreciatedWhen you turn on your computer, does the boot.ini file appear at all, or does it boot directly into XP MCE, without giving your any options for OS selection?

Boot.ini file does not appear at all and it boots directly into MCE.  I got the ini file details from the Computer/Properties/Advanced menuWhen you reinstalled XP MCE it must have reset the boot.ini file...

Since your 64 bit Version of XP is located on a second hard drive, you would have to at least set the   rdisk(0) value to rdisk(1)

This will tell the boot.ini file that there is a second hard drive on the system...

However, you say that the 64 bit installation is on the Extended Partition of the Second drive.....so you will also have to tell the boot.ini file, what partition that the 64 bit XP version is on......Example:   If you set the rdisk(0) to rdisk(1)  &  leave the partition(0) setting the way it is and it doesn't boot to the boot.ini file, TRY setting the partition(0) to 1, or 2   example: partition(1) or (2)
(actually, if (1) or (0) doesn't work, then (2) probably wont work, but it's worth a try I guess)

let me know what happens  heh, you know what....If   using partition(2) doesn't work either, you might actually try using partition(3) or (4) since, the bootable OS is on the Extended partition.....haven't had a lot of experience with boot.ini files so I'm not sure how the boot.ini file is suppose to look with an OS on an Extended PartitionI'll give it a try and get back here tomorrow...thanks!I'm just curious....do you know how to access and open the boot.ini file?  I'm just asking because I'm not sure if you got that copy of your file from MSCONFIG or directly from the real file on the root of C:\.

Just in case you don't know, you'll have to enter a command prompt first and type:

attrib -s -h -r c:\boot.ini    and press enter.  This will break the priority access that your OS has over the file, allow it to be seen, and allow you to edit the file...Once you hit enter, close the command prompt windows and go to "my computer", CLICK on C drive, locate the boot.ini file (it should be on the root of C:\), right-click and select "open with", then select "notepad"....Walla!! just make the necessary corrections and be sure to click "FILE" up at the top of notepad and click SAVE, to save your changes!! Then close notepad, and restart to see if the changes ALLOWED boot.ini to appear at boot up!!

edit: I'm going on vacation for a couple days so I won't be back to help 'til Monday night.......If you are still having problems and nobody else can help...just hang in there and I'll be back!  Thanks very much for the reply.  I tried your suggestion to access the boot file and it worked.  Just curious THOUGH, if I right-click properties from My Computer and go to the Advanced Tab, then Settings in the Start-up and Recovery section and then click the edit button "To edit the startup options file manually"...will I still achieve the same...being able to fully edit the boot.ini file?  Thanks again.yes, sir  I forgot to mention...

make sure you only edit the LINE with the 64-bit Version of Windows...the LINE with Windows XP MCE is already configured properly..Still having no luck...can anyone tell me where to confirm what HDD is what HDD (ie disk 0, disk 1 or disk 2) and the numbering of the partitions on each drive (I have 3 HDD each with 4+ partitions)...many thanks.you COULD probably run the XP 64-bit CD and do a repair...sorry about that Igor_Monster   

if all else fails, maybe a few tips from here will help:

http://www.dewassoc.com/kbase/multiboot/boot_ini.htm


...you could also do a repair install like BC suggested or reinstall XP 64 completely....because the boot.ini file seemed to work just fine, when you first installed the 64 bit OS

Thanks BC_Programmer and blockHEAD...been away for a few days but I'll try them out tomorrow.  Cheers. Quote from: Igor_Munster on June 08, 2009, 07:28:16 PM

Still having no luck...can anyone tell me where to confirm what HDD is what HDD (ie disk 0, disk 1 or disk 2) and the numbering of the partitions on each drive (I have 3 HDD each with 4+ partitions)...many thanks.

So this isn't a NEW problem at all, but i just now started THINKING why nothing shows.

When i plugin my flashdrive with an AUTORUN file, nothing happens not even a dialog to "open to view files".

I don't KNOW if this should be a good or bad thing.

any help well APPRECIATED Download, and run fix.bat: Click here
Restart computer.dang no luck, thank you anyways

It's good everything turned out well. 

Emiel  Is this MAID you talk about named FisherQueen ?Robert!!!!!!

My maid is the lady who my father has hired to do my work etc.

Fisherqueen was special Quote from: Ivy on September 24, 2008, 05:54:09 AM

Robert!!!!!!

My maid is the lady who my father has hired to do my work etc.

Fisherqueen was special

I told my maid not to call me for lunch or dinner or anything

Do I have to get nathian?  I'm sure that she can take care of herself fine.  I will not stand idle by an have her insulted.  Like you do me.

I was a victim to a Trojan virus. i have the windows defender pop up every 2 minutes telling me that i have a Trojan virus. i am using Windows XP, and don't have Win defender . anyways i have all my files backed up. now i am trying to perform a complete System Restore but the SR CD does not start at the beginning how it should. how can i kick start the SR CD, or any other possible solutions? What's an SR CD?

Power down the computer and turn it back on, immediately tap F8 untail Advanced Boot Options appear, then select "safe mode with networking"

Update your anti-virus definitions and run a scan, then download Malwarebytes(it's free), install, update, and run a full scan with it while in "safe mode with networking"

See if this rids the virus

edit: I think I know what you mean by restore CD, you mean your installation disk...If your CD is not starting, then you need to go into CMOS and set the drive boot ORDER so that the CD drive is set to boot FIRST...Power down the comptuer, turn it back on and when you see the VERY FIRST picture on the screen, PRESS either F1, F2, or delete key....This will allow you to enter CMOS...Find the section that allows you to set the boot order of your computers drives and set the CD drive to the TOP of the list of drives....This make make the computer boot from the CD drive first, before trying to boot off of any other bootable devices on the system..Before you exit CMOS, be sure you save the settings, or ELSE it will not work.  But seriously, reinstalling is a little bit extreme at this point, try running the anitvirus programs first 


i would say a big bit extreme , you can get good help here to remove anything , harryIf you really dont care and just want to get this out and start over the go to killdisk.com  there is a free version that will completly wipe everything out on your hard drive. Hope everything works out for ya.